capital story: a dublin house restored / blues & bootcamps & brilliant beauty
MAGAZINE march 2011 / t4.50
onth with m y r e v e w no Es risH Tim
THE i
emotional extremes the Mother-Daughter equation
going back for more a tale of prescription Drug aDDiction
a riot of brights lose your inhibitions about wearing colour
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OBSERVER 8 Gloss-ip BOOKS, BLOGS AND A SEXY SPIN DOCTOR 14 20 Questions ANN HORAN’S LIFE LESSONS SHOPPING 17 Hunting A CLASSIC COMBINATION UPDATED
18 Gathering ALLEZ LES BLEUS! 20 A Good Look FOOLPROOF STYLE 22 Deep Blush THE HOT NEW HUE 24 Euro Zone CASUAL CHIC 26 Wardrobe Update OUR SPRING WISH LIST 28 Paris Match FRENCH DRESSING COMES TO IRELAND FEATURES 30 Menu du Jour POLLY DEVLIN’S MOST MEMORABLE MEALS 34 A Little Help From Our Friends THE BUSY BODIES WHO DON’T KNOW WHEN TO STOP 36 The Mother of All Relationships EXPLORING THE MOTHER-DAUGHTER BOND 40 Open Season BEWARE THE FRIEND POACHER 54 The Way Back HOW ONE MAN BEAT HIS PRESCRIPTION DRUG ADDICTION FASHION 46 Colour Chaos A RIOT OF BRIGHTS BEAUTY 57 Fox By Name ARMANI’S SMOULDERING LOOK 58 Beauty Buffet WHAT’S NEW HOME 61 Home Rules SMART DESIGN IN A CITY HOME 70 This Glossy Lifestyle THE BEST OF IRISH FOOD & WINE 67 Say Fromage CLODAGH MC KENNA’S PASSION FOR CHEESE 68 This Entertaining Life DINNER PARTIES WITH A PRO plus TRY A NEW WINE TRAVEL 72 Man In A Suitcase WHEN FLYING WAS FABULOUS FITNESS 74 Field Work BRAVE A BOOT CAMP THIS GLOSSY LIFE 76 Une Bonne Addresse WE VISIT THE FRENCH AMBASSADOR AT HOME 80 A View From The Jeep CONNIE’S OFF TO THE WEST WING
She Does, She Doesn’t HELEN MIRREN, FEISTY DAME
2 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
E D I TO R
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A ISL INN COFFEY A R T D I R E C TO R
L AURA MERRIGA N A DV E R T I S I N G SA L E S D I R E C TO R
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POL LY D EVL IN, LYNN ENRIGH T, A NTONIA H A RT, CATH ERINE H EA NEY, KATY MC GUINNESS, MA RY MIL L ER, AOIFE O’BRIEN, PETER O’BRIEN, SA RA H OW ENS, TH ERESE Q UINN, ROSE MA RY ROCH E, LUIS ROD RIGUEZ , NATA SH A SH ERL ING CO N T R I B U T I N G P H OTO G R A P H E R S
JUA N A L GA RIN, SA RA H D OYL E, NEIL GAVIN, RENATO GH IA ZZA , OL IVIA GRA H A M, NEIL H URL EY, L ISA L OF TUS, BA RRY MC CA L L , JOA NNE MURPH Y, L IA M MURPH Y, A MEL IA STEIN, SUK I STUA RT THE GLOSS welcomes letters from readers, emailed to letters@thegloss.ie. THE GLOSS is published by Gloss Publications Ltd, The Courtyard, 40 Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin, 01 275 5130. Subscriptions Hotline: 01 275 5130. 12 issues delivered directly to your address: Ireland: t49.50. UK and EU: t80. Rest of world: t115. Printed by Polestar, Chantry, UK. Colour origination by Typeform. Copyright 2011 Gloss Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. This magazine can be recycled either in your Green Bin kerbside collection or at a local recycling point.
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H MARC
Norma Smurfit’s PRAGMATIC APPROACH to fundraising … World Book Night is on Saturday ... Tired politicos at the Leviathan event and just who is behind the most PIQUANT BLOG of the moment? she tells us. “These days you have to come up with ideas
time on their hands these days, but
that involve a lot of people contributing not very much.”
everywhere we go the talk is of
reading and publishing. Everyone
The recent DAVID MCWILLIAMS/ALASTAIR
is sharing links to exceptional
CAMPBELL Leviathan event in The Button Factory
articles – LAWRENCE WRIGHT’s
attracted the usual politicos, to be sure – rugby player DENIS HICKIE asked astute questions – but also a
blistering treatise on filmmaker
PAUL HAGGIS and the Church of Scientology from The
contingent of women (and a few men) who confessed
New Yorker last month being a case in point. Amazon’s
to caring not a fig for the talk of WMDs and the state
announcement that their sales of e-books now exceed
of the economy but were more interested in ... er ...
the sale of paperbacks is misleading, though – they
thinking person’s crumpet. The consensus was that
are an internet company after all – but it is a market
McWilliams looked rumpled and wrecked, while
that’s growing fast with overall estimates showing
Campbell was taller than expected and very sexy – and
that e-books now make up approximately 10 per cent
revealed that TONY BLAIR used to call him Keano,
of all book sales. Self-publishing too is on the rise,
which he took as a semi-compliment. His suit had
and it’s not all about vanity. AMANDA HOCKING – a
a fancy lining and intriguing little slits on the outer
26-year-old YA (Young Adult) author based in Austin,
ankle, indicating a taste for bespoke that – while it may
Minnesota – sold 450,000 digital download copies
not sit easily with the terraces at his beloved Burnley
of her books (priced from 99 cents to $2.99) during
FC – the former spin doctor appears to have acquired
the month of January alone. London agent JONNY
in the post-Blair era. Campbell said that his former
GELLER – head of books at Curtis Brown, where Irish
boss had become a tad grander since leaving office: “I
woman SHEILA CROWLEY is also based – tweeted that
suppose you forget what it’s like to open a door.” In the
SPRING INTO ACTION: The tireless Norma Smurfit.
debate that followed, snappily-dressed Dragon SEAN GALLAGHER was eloquent, while NIAMH BRENNAN
months. And he should know. Geller is one of the great and the good of the publishing world, involved
Good to hear, then, that he is the recipient of this
of the DDDA looked equally downbeat. Some observed
in the inaugural World Book Night book-giving event
year’s Ireland Fund of Monaco Literary Bursary, which
gloomily that BRENDAN BUTLER of IBEC was dressed
on March 5, the brainchild of JAMIE BYNG, MD of
will see him taking up a one-month residency at The
for the cattle mart rather than the international
publishing house Canongate. The event will see a
Princess Grace Irish Library in Monaco.
negotiations of which he spoke. Those who had
million copies of 25 selected books, including Cloud
purchased VIP tickets were less than impressed by the
Atlas by DAVID MITCHELL and Rachel’s Holiday by our
If there’s one fundraiser who merits the over-used tag
own MARIAN KEYES, being given away by 20,000
‘tireless’, it’s NORMA SMURFIT. She just doesn’t give up.
have already been wheeled out at a couple of other
members of the public. Author SARAH WEBB says she
Her Spring Clean For Charity event was a great success
events earlier in the day.
quality of the canapés, which looked as if they might
is honoured to have been picked as one of the Dublin
last year, capturing the mood of the moment. Basically
givers, as has our own contributing editor ANTONIA
it’s a posh jumble sale, but with glamorous stallholders
Somebody who’ll have seen more than a lifetime’s
HART. World Book Night isn’t universally popular
such as BILL CULLEN, JACKIE LAVIN, LORRAINE
worth of nibbles during her term of office is President
though – some independent booksellers in the UK have
KEANE and LISA FITZPATRICK, it’s definitely more
MARY MC ALEESE. What does an ex-President do
claimed that far from spreading the joy of reading,
exciting than your typical church hall offering. Last
when their tenure comes to an end? MARY ROBINSON
World Book Night will simply flood the market with
year, early birds nabbed Chanel and Prada bags and
headed to the UN, but Mary McAleese is going to
free books and devalue the work of authors in the eyes
vintage furs for a song, Norma told us, and one savvy
Rome. Her plan, according to a Very Good Source, is
of the public, further reinforcing the notion that those
shopper snapped up dingy candelabra that turned out
to study for a Licentiate in Canon Law. Through Latin,
involved in the book trade are there to provide a public
to be worth substantially more than the price she paid.
no less.
service and that authors, publishers and booksellers
It’s back again on March 13 in the RDS, with Hibernian
don’t deserve or need to make a living.
Colleges coughing up for sponsorship and all proceeds
These days it’s all about information. The lawyers
going to the SVP and Focus Ireland, via Norma’s own
and bankers are brimming over with delicious gossip
Author and journalist ROBERT O’BYRNE, author of
Irish Famine Commemoration Fund, the umbrella
that they’re not supposed to share. They have to get it
the recent Dictionary of Living Irish Artists, is one of
charity. “I wouldn’t dream of trying to hold a ball now
off their chests somehow, though. The blog with the
the most hard-working and prolific writers we know.
8 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
– nobody would come and you can’t get sponsorship,”
most inside of inside tracks is (continued on page 12)
NUMBER 1 0 ORMOND QUAY; WWW.NO10DU BLIN.COM.
we’ll be seeing plenty more of this over the coming
PHOTOG RAPH BY SIOBHAN BYRNE; SH OT ON LOCATION AT
P
erhaps it’s that people have more
shop tommy.com
GLOSS-IP www.namawinelake.wordpress.com. Speculation in media circles as to the identity of the very well-informed person behind Nama Wine Lake is rife – it’s clearly someone with a lot of time on his or her hands and some axes to grind – but their cover has yet to be blown. The first event of 2011’s THE GLOSS and Moët & Chandon Cinema Club was a treat – a screening of Valentino: The Last Emperor, a fabulously stylish documentary about the iconic designer, at Denzille Lane Cinema. We asked designer PETER O’BRIEN to introduce the movie. While by no means a contemporary of the legendary permatanned designer – the idea of it! – O’Brien was at Rochas in Paris
The Pleasures of Provence
when Valentino, or Val as he was known in the biz, was at the very height of his powers. “Every other house had to come second to Val,” he said, “he commandeered a floor of the Ritz for fittings and
Book now for the first of our 2011 wine dinners on Wednesday April 13
everyone was kept waiting until he was ready – if you had booked the same model as Valentino, you could be waiting a long time for her to arrive.” For O’Brien, who grew a little nostalgic at the sight of Valentino’s seamstresses, it brought back the world of couture. “For me, those women represent everything that is unique and special about couture, their dedication, their talent. It’s dying out now, and it’s a shame.” We were thrilled to meet readers, including sisters ORLA AND EMER MURRAY – the latter queen of chic patisserie Goya in
SIX-COURSE DINNER ACCOMPANIED BY SIX WINES
WINES PRESENTED BY THE GLOSS WINE EDITOR MARY DOWEY
A WONDERFUL EVENING OUT FOR YOU AND YOUR GUESTS
AN INSPIRED GIFT OR A SMART WAY TO ENTERTAIN BUSINESS ASSOCIATES
Galway, who professed an affinity for O’Brien’s love of quality: “I use the same ribbons to trim my wedding cakes as he used at Rochas.” It was a pleasure to introduce the best baker in Ireland (in the words of Bridgestone’s JOHN MC KENNA) to the best designer. After the screening, O’Brien and others, including stylist CATHERINE CONDELL and Tramyard Gallery director CLODAGH HANNON, repaired to The Merrion Hotel for supper. ■
THE GLOSS and MOËT & CHANDON
CINEMA CLUB
1
What better way to launch our programme of dinners for 2011 – the fifth year of THE GLOSS & THE MERRION WINE SOCIETY – than by setting the scene for summer with an ESCAPE TO DREAMY PROVENCE? All lovers of fine wine and fantastic food are welcome to attend. We promise a gourmet evening which is guaranteed to put you in the mood for brighter days ahead.
3 4
2
Our next wine dinner, THE PLEASURES OF PROVENCE, takes place in the Cellar Restaurant of Dublin’s Merrion Hotel, on Wednesday April 13. MARY DOWEY, Wine Editor of THE GLOSS, has a special interest in Provence (and a super website to prove it: www.provencefoodandwine.com). She will present a fantastic line-up of wines from the stylish Southern Rhône and further south. These will be matched with delicious dishes from The Merrion’s executive chef Ed Cooney and his team, reflecting the fresh, vibrant flavours that make modern provençal cooking so enticing.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENATO GHIAZZA
For a90, guests will enjoy a superb six-course dinner accompanied by six different wines, each chosen and introduced by MARY DOWEY. As usual, we expect tickets to sell out quickly. The evening begins at 7.30pm. Come and travel with us to the sun-drenched south of France on this glorious gastronomic tour. ● ● ● ● ●
1. Niamh and Ciara Hughes. 2. Peter O’Brien. 3. Natasha McKenna and Cate Kelliher. 4. Holly White. 5. Anita Gibbons and Fionnuala O’Meara.
5
12 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
six-course dinner accompanied by six wines wines presented by THE GLOSS Wine Editor Mary Dowey wines can be ordered by the case at very attractive prices gift vouchers available – the perfect present for any wine lover call 01 275 5130 for queries and booking
TICKETS AT t90 INCLUDE A SIX-COURSE DINNER AND SIX WINES. FOR ENQUIRIES AND TICKETS, CALL THE WINE SOCIETY HOTLINE ON 01 275 5130
Over 100 New Labels, 100’s of Events, 100's of New Product launches and Weekly Style Masterclasses... Plus a host of visiting International Designers, Celebrity Make-up Artists and Fashion, Beauty & Interiors experts in all BROWN THOMAS and BT2 stores.
Check out the diary on BROWNTHOMAS.COM for details of all that's happening at your favourite store.
20 QUESTIONS What’s on your desk at the moment that has no place there?
What has you tossing and turning in the small hours?
A photo of my daughter, Lucy, and myself at the
A million projects and tasks spinning round in
Empire State Building last November – I’d gone
my head.
over to watch her run the marathon. The photo
Do you create order or chaos?
reminds me that anything is possible.
I am an organised person but am also willing
What did you want to be when you grew up?
to let people have a go and make mistakes – not
A teacher. Luckily it didn’t happen, because I
quite chaos perhaps, but not overly controlling.
am not patient with other people’s children and
By nature, are you town or country?
I hate routine.
As a young person, it was town, I couldn’t bear
At school, were you a pleasure to teach?
to be away from the convenience and buzz of
Yes, I was a typical eldest child – an achiever.
city life. Later, I started to appreciate the beauty
What do you listen to on long car journeys?
and peace of the countryside. When I retire,
The Beatles, Rolling Stones, Elton John, Neil
who knows?
Diamond, Cat Stevens.
Are you good in an emergency?
What turn of events could have knocked you down with a feather?
I think my pattern is to be calm and efficient,
The banking meltdown. Some of what happened
and only panic later on. There are times at work
didn’t surprise me but the scale of losses and the
when you have to make tough decisions: you
speed of events were quite shocking.
keep the emotion out of it at the time, but later it does come flooding in.
Do you think we can work our way out of our current problems?
What is your favourite street?
We have to. Working with entrepreneurs and
I once worked on Pembroke Road [in Dublin],
innovators does generate a sense of optimism.
different at weekends, especially rugby weekends. I loved the contrast and often wished
Horan
I could afford to live there.
Who can always comfort you? My mum.
Who would you most like to have dinner with? President Mary McAleese – she is such an impressive woman but also comes across as very human.
Ann HorAn worked in banking for almost
What gets your goat? Arrogance and arrogant people.
What book have you reread again and again? I am a closet psychologist! The Road Less Travelled by M Scott Peck. My favourite book of this nature is probably Passages by Gail Sheehy. Books like this help to make sense of our lives and understand the needs and actions of others.
What is always with you, no matter how small your handbag? My iPhone.
30 years, and was the most senior woman in Bank of Ireland when she left her position as Managing Director of Bank of Ireland Finance six years ago. She subsequently became Chief Executive of the DCU Ryan Academy, promoting entrepreneurship and innovation from its Citywest campus.
There are so many people setting up their own businesses, creating new products, services and employment without a lot of fanfare.
Does hard work come naturally to you? Yes.
Is it still unusual to find women in senior positions in banking? Yes. And it wasn’t always easy being a woman in that world – nothing explicit, but a definite sense, sometimes, that you’d strayed into male territory.
Are you at ease with birthdays? Yes, I am proud of my age. A wise person once told me that we should hope to die “as young as possible as late as possible in life”.
What music would you like played at your funeral? Something upbeat. A good friend of mine, Anna May Driscoll, died of cancer in 2007. When we arrived at the crematorium, Judi Dench was singing ‘Send in the Clowns’. It so reflected her personality and sense of humour. Brilliant. ah
Samantha Browne, created for The Gloss by Annie West
14 | March 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
p h otog ra p h by si o b h a n byrn e
Ann
a bustling business area which was very
HUNTING
end s p o tt i n g a t r
F LASH OF INSPIR ATION
COUNTER INTUITION Blue and white – could there be a more traditional colour combination, with its echoes of willow pattern teacups, nautical stripes and toile de Jouy? Leave it to Miuccia Prada (who else) to subvert this classic pairing by adding a renegade shot of neon and bold accessories. Her Miu Miu show was one of the stand-outs of spring/ summer 2011: models were made up like neo-Bardots – creamy skin, kohl-rimmed eyes and tousled hair – the perfect foil for a riot of clashing prints and zanily detailed bags and shoes (think brogue meets stiletto, with ankle straps, latticework cut-outs and flashes of DayGlo thrown in). As well as making us rethink colour, the collection also breathed new life into staid shapes, like the kilt – gorgeous fabics and a clean cut made this staple of matrons and schoolgirls feel fresh and modern. It’s thinking that works beyond the catwalk, too: a ticking-upholstered armchair with hot pink piping recently caught our eye, as did a collection of Spode plates hanging on the wall of an otherwise modern kitchen. All unexpected little flourishes – and all the more refreshing for it.
PHOTOGRA PH BY JAS O N L LOY D - EVA N S
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | March 2011 | 17
GATHERING
re n d channel the t
To complement
2
its new Lady Collection
3
of double-wrap watches,
1
Swatch has introduced these slim leather bracelets in ten bold colours. The hot pink
is our favourite. Bijoux Colour Codes bracelet, t20, at Swatch stores; www.swatch.com.
MI U M I U
9
JASON LLOYD -EVA N S
8
7 Roche Bobois channels the neo-neon trend with this violet lacquered oak side table, with a zingy yellow trim, from its
Les
Provinciales collection, a brilliant
reinterpretation of traditional French pieces. To order, at Roche Bobois.
THE NEW BLUES
4
A FRESH APPROACH
Main picture: Seeing stars, at Miu Miu. 1. China Blue tiered dress, t64, at OASIS. 2. PAUL SMITH OPTIMISTIC, eau de parfum, from t35; from April 1, exclusively at Boots. 3. Silk swallow print blouse, t72, at WAREHOUSE. 4. Hand-knotted wool Star Blue rug, Paul Smith, £680 per square metre, to order, at THE RUG COMPANY. 5. Cotton stripe shopper, COS, t59, at BT2. 6. Clover cup and saucer, Linea, t11, at HOUSE OF FRASER. 7. Vide-poche, HERMÈS, t475, at Brown Thomas. 8. BOURJOIS SWEET KISS lipstick, in Rouge Fashion, t11.99. 9. Blue and white woven leather Mary Jane, PRADA, to order, at Brown Thomas.
For stockists, www.thegloss.ie.
6
18 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
5
a
1 SMOOTH LOOK 12 SMOOTH HOURS
smooth infusion™ style-prep smoother ™ Tame frizz and defend against humidity for 12 hours – with our innovative plant infusion that creates a smooth new surface on hair. Developed with our stylists, created with respect for the earth – to care for you and the planet. TRY IT–FOR FREE! Receive a free* 3-piece sample pack by mentioning this ad at a participating salon or store. For locations visit www.aveda.co.uk/gloss or call 0870 034 2380.
*One per guest. In participating locations only. While stocks last.
SHOPPING Cafe au lait silk shirt, d49.95; white silk T-shirt, d39.95; both at ZARA. Flora Primrose cuff, ALEXIS BITTAR, d100, at Loulerie.
White silk blouse, WHISTLES, d119, at House of Fraser.
DEREK LAM
Silver liquid bangles, d249 each, at PANDORA.
JASON LLOY D-E VA N S
Navy Lovestory jeans, J BRAND, d245, at BT2.
A Good Look Simple silk shirt – check. High-waisted jeans, tan leather accessories and a great spring scarf – check, check, check. Add some silver jewellery (it’s the new gold), good grooming and hey presto ...
Metallic patchwork scarf, MISSONI, d415; www.net-a-porter.com.
High-waisted denim shorts, d29.90, at MANGO.
Tan leather sandal, COS, d125, at BT2.
Driver watch, d475, at LINKS. d
20 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
Tan leather jacket, d99, at ZARA. For stockists, www.thegloss.ie.
IT’S BEEN 10 YEARS SINCE THE PANDORA BRACELET AND CHARMS WERE FIRST LAUNCHED. LEARN THE FULL STORY AND SEE THE NEW LIMITED EDITION ANNIVERSARY CHARM AT PANDORA.NET
SHOPPING
High-waisted tailored shorts, d52, at WAREHOUSE.
Blush jersey bell dress, VICTORIA BECKHAM, d1,700, at Brown Thomas.
I SA BE L M A R A N T
Beaded silk dress, d1,185, at Brown Thomas.
Black Neomi lizard-print leather boot, ALEXANDER WANG, d695, at Brown Thomas.
Jersey tank dress, d29.95, at ZARA.
JASON LLOYD-EVA N S
OPENING CEREMONY,
Deep Blush
Flora rose gold cocktail ring, ALEXIS BITTAR, d265, at Loulerie.
Yes, there’s a new new nude. But is it coral or rust? Salmon? Blushy-bronze? We can’t quite decide on a name, but whatever you call it, it’s the colour of the moment. Just remember to mix your chosen shade with a shot of black to stop it looking overly sweet. Or if you’d rather save your blushes for your beauty bag, try Jessica’s new nail colour Guilty Pleasures ...
Japanese Garden choker, LARA BOHINC, d555, at Harvey Nichols.
Silk shirt, WHISTLES, d119, at House of Fraser.
Black leather skater skirt, d99, at ZARA.
For stockists, www.thegloss.ie.
22 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
Please enjoy responsibly. www.moet.com
Scarlett Johansson
SHOPPING MAN Blue suede lace-up shoes, t80.50, at RIVER ISLAND. Check cotton shirt, t62, at FRENCH CONNECTION.
D& G
Gingham cotton shirt, ST GEORGE BY DUFFER, t57, at Debenhams.
Gingham cotton Brompton shirt, t100, at HACKETT.
Tortoiseshell sunglasses, D&G, t137, at Brown Thomas.
Navy suede belt, t27, at RIVER ISLAND.
Euro Zone This spring, raise your game by adopting a few simple wardrobe changes – a splash of colour and lightweight fabrics will see you through until summer. Tone-on-tone layering (that’s two items of the same colour, to you) – like this traditional gingham shirt and red sweater – makes for a pulled-together continental look.
Stone suede lace-up shoes, JEFF BANKS, t105, at Debenhams.
24 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
JAS O N LLOY D-EVANS
Raspberry ultraskinny cotton chinos, t32, at TOPSHOP.
Navy cotton Oliver jacket, t295, at REISS. For stockists www.thegloss.ie.
Cotton Blytz chinos, t100, at TED BAKER.
U LT I M AT E I N N O VAT I O N
Vital Light Luminosity: the key to younger-looking skin.
Vital Light, the first anti-ageing skin care which treats the original causes of the loss of skin luminosity. For the first time ever, Clarins Research has developed the exceptional revitalizing power of three pioneer plants in one unique formula to help restore the deep luminosity of youthful skin. The result? The appearance of wrinkles and fine lines is reduced, skin feels firmer, looks smoother and younger. New formulas for every skin type are now available. Clarins, No.1 in European luxury skin care*. *Source:
European Forecasts
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M IC H A E L KORS
BY AISLINN COFFEY
FASHION
DILEMMA CAN A SWEATSHIRT EVER LOOK CHIC? The answer is yes, if it’s CLASSIC GREY MARL. The charms of this wardrobe staple are manifold: the more it is washed, the softer and cosier it feels; there’s a shade of grey to flatter every skin tone; and no matter how much time you’ve devoted to hair, make-up and accessories, it will always bring that ‘just thrown on’ EASY GLAMOUR to your look. The new shorter cropped versions can be worn with high-waisted flared jeans and a discreet flash of sparkly jewellery – a nod to the 1970s revival. Or layer it over a long jersey dress and finish with chunky silver pieces for an ‘evening in the Hamptons’ vibe. It pretty much works like a leather jacket – that is, it will add a bit of urban cool to any outfit. For ultimate edge, pair the two and wear with a large dose of attitude. Left, from top: Crop button-through sweatshirt, d40, at Topshop. Luca sweatshirt, d110, at Reiss. Dakota boot, Alexander Wang, d660, at Brown Thomas. Right, from top: Short-sleeve sweatshirt, Étoile Isabel Marant, d115, at BT2. Drop earrings, d305, Lara Bohinc, at Harvey Nichols.
QA &
Judith Milgrom of Paris label Maje
What kind of women do you design for? “You’ve got to know what women need if you want them to love your designs,” says Judith Milgrom, designer and creator of cool Parisian label Maje, newly arrived at BT2. “I spend a lot of time out and about people-watching. The Maje woman is sexy, ultra-feminine – a working woman who is aware of her own style and fashion.”
“ This Month
I’ll wear ...” THIS MONTH BUDDING STYLIST, FASHION STUDENT AND BLOGGER BECKY GRAY, AKA BECKY DAZZLER, LOVES …
Top of my shopping list this season is something Stellaesque (inspired by her botanical prints); cobalt blue trousers; sheer blouses and a white lace dress. Oh, and a boater hat. I admire designers whose sense of humour comes out in their pieces, like Peter Jensen and Mrs Prada for Miu Miu. I’m also a huge fan of Phoebe Philo (at Céline) and Alber Elbaz (at Lanvin). At college, comfort is a priority – flat shoes (Converse and French Sole) and a great coat. I’m currently loving my preppy look – collared blouses with ribbon ties and v-neck jumpers. By night I’m definitely a fashion chameleon, so I could wear anything from a brightly coloured dress to a studded leather jacket and skinny jeans. I’m an avid magazine reader and I also love blogs like www.cupcakesandcashmere.com and www.fashiontoast.com. As a student, I rely on shops like Zara and Topshop for on-trend pieces. I’m not a huge fan of online shopping but both www.shopnastygal.com and www.my-wardrobe.com would be favourites. I adore vintage shops like Wild Child and Harlequin in Dublin. My style advice: be brave and have fun with fashion and don’t be afraid to experiment with different looks. But only invest in classics.
We just love
OBJECT OF DESIRE:
this time of year when the high street stores unveil their interpretations of the best of the designer catwalk shows. The Erdem SS/11 show (left) was definitely in our top ten and we were pleasantly surprised by Penneys’ great rendition (right). Floral skirt, t17; crochet sweater, t18; nude shoes, t13; all at Penneys nationwide.
We’ve been seduced by American label Hello! Skinny Jeans. Promising the world (clever seams to give a thigh-slimming, leglengthening effect; special stiching on the waist band that lifts the bottom), they actually deliver. Their organic Green Jeans (t169) are now officially our essential spring denims. Being green never looked so hot! Available in sizes 4-22 and up to leg 37”; www. thewhitedoor.ie.
What can we look forward to in your spring collection? “My latest collection focuses on the 1990s, colour blocking and sexy masculine pieces.” Worn to work in a chic yet casual way, each piece would work equally well at a smart party. “They’re easy to mix and match, we’ve focused on skirts, trousers and blouses as well as sequin and full-length dresses for a night-time wow factor.” One style tip? “Simplicity!” Maje is available this month at BT2; www.bt2.ie.
26 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
PRADA’S ‘MADE IN’ project (Mrs Prada trekked the world to find the best artisans and craftsmen using traditional techniques) has resulted in a line of limited edition clothing and accessories; 85 per cent of Prada’s product is produced in Italy, but the designer wants to make the most of the rest of the world’s skilled craftspeople too: jeans from China, kilts from Scotland and these handmade ballerina flats from India.
P HOTO GR A P H BY SI O B H A N BYR N E
FASHION WARDROBE
+44 ( 0 ) 20 7245 9800
W W W.ESCADA .COM
FRENCH STYLE
PARIS MATCH
Organza and linen dress, d580, CARVEN.
A nouvelle vague of French designers has recently hit these shores, bringing with it a pared-back chic that seems right for the times. EIMEAR NOLAN searches out new French labels, for adults and les petites …
Red dress, d80, BONPOINT.
J
Silk spot dress d330, SONIA BY SONIA RYKIEL.
Nude leather shoes, d275, SANDRO.
Bird print dress, d90, CHLOÉ.
Leather sandals, d60, CHLOÉ.
Chlo
e SS 11
/
E NE SAIS QUOI can’t be bought, but French style has never been more accessible to the Irish shopper, thanks to strong demand for fast-growing labels like SANDRO, ZADIG & VOLTAIRE, ÉTOILE ISABEL MARANT and MAJE. This hankering after French dressing reflects a change in the Irish sartorial climate – French style is the antithesis of footballer’s wife ostentation; it’s endlessly elegant, sexy and glamorous. French girls buy fewer items, but love each one and wear it to death. It makes sense that the French attitude is exerting a pull over Irish shoppers. The range of women who embody French style shows that there is no one ‘look’ française;; it’s all about the attitude. Catherine Deneuve, Brigitte Bardot, Marion Cotillard, Clémence Poésy, Emanuelle Alt (new editor of French Vogue) and Vanessa Paradis all have very different styles, yet all are sexy and cool because each knows her own mind. The French philosophy isn’t complicated – you can do what you want, as long as you do it with conviction. But you have to know what you want, and what suits you. That’s the challenge. Helping to meet this demand are multiple French labels that deliver on-thepulse-fashion, distilled to chic essentials. The recently opened Sandro concession in Brown Thomas is already proving too small, no surprise when you consider how hard any of its pieces would work in your wardrobe. Sandro specialises in wardrobe staples with a twist, where no piece or detail is superfluous. Brown Thomas and Costume also stock edgy, street-chic label ZADIG & VOLTAIRE, largely because so many shoppers were asking for it. Parisian-cool label MAJE, founded by Judith Milgrom (read her style tips on page 26), is on sale in BT2 from March – think stylish staples in leather and wool – while Smock in Drury Street stocks hip minimalist label APC (Alexa Chung is a fan). Fans of fashionistas’ darling Isabel Marant’s pared-down, effortless chic aesthetic can get their fix in Costume and BT2, both of which stock the designer’s second line, ÉTOILE ISABEL MARANT. There’s no fear of saturating the market, says Brown Thomas buyer Shelly Corkery, because “[the brands] each have their own distinct selling point, their own quirky identity”. Just like the girls who wear them. The French influence can be also seen in the recently opened Brown Thomas Children’s Rooms. The vibe is chic minimalism, tailored for juniors. The French don’t believe in cute, gimmicky clothes for children; there’s a continuity between how children and adults dress. So glitter and flounces are banished in favour of well-made, durable staples that are age-appropriate and fun. The idea is that one beautiful, well-made piece is more satisfying than many cheaper, disposable items. French labels BONPOINT and CYRILLUS both feature pretty grosgrain dresses that would make beautiful Communion outfits. French daywear is smarter than the American-influenced hoodies-and-jeans look, which will please parents. It’s what Corkery calls “casual plus”. Think jeans, trainers and even wellies by CHLOÉ, MARITHÉ + FRANÇOIS GIRBAUD and JUNIOR GAULTIER, and stripy T-shirts by PETIT BATEAU. For babies and baby gifts, there’s the adorable and affordable TARTINE ET CHOCOLAT. The French ethos of knowing what you love and wearing it with confidence seems a good philosophy to instil in children (think how much cash and time you could save your daughter, not to mention cringeworthy fashion moments), and the Children’s Rooms are a good place to start. Eimear Nolan works at British Vogue.
DioSr11 n stia S Chrui nway R Silk print Reilly dress, d330, ÉTOILE ISABEL MARANT.
Cotton print shirt, d260, ZADIG & VOLTAIRE.
Turner leather sandal, d445, CHLOÉ.
28 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
Stripe dress, d235, BABY DIOR.
Stripe T-shirt, d28, PETIT BATEAU.
Straw hat, d45, CHLOÉ.
WWW.THOMASSABO.COM
CONTACT: +44 (0) 20 77 20 97 25 l UK@THOMASSABO.COM
Katy Perry
polly devlin
Menu du
jour ˜ ˜
Thirteen courses? Now that’s what we call a dinner party. Polly DevliN celebrates the decadence of old-fashioned entertaining, and recalls her most memorable meals, from freshly caught fish in a seaside shack to soufflé at a Baron’s table … Never heard of it. Gastronomy was not a word in our
quite recently it was an intrinsic
lexicon. In fact our dream as children was to be allowed
A menu for a grand occasion luncheon in 1812 starts
part of every rural Irish kitchen, a
synthetic food – cheese in foil packets, white lemonade
with a choice of turtle or jardinière soup, lobsters and
big high-backed lumber bench set
(called a mineral), biscuits and Wagon Wheels finished off
trout à la Genevoise, aided by 14 entreés including fowl of
tight against the wall. When I was a
with chewing gum; and fast-forward to when my daughters
all kinds, veal, lamb, sweetbreads, quenelles of whiting,
child we had one, a fairly immovable
were growing up and being fed a peerlessly healthy diet but
escalope of turbot and mutton. The second course offers
whose idea of heaven was a hamburger at McDonald’s.
22 dishes for the jaded palate including quail, chicken,
piece of furniture and thus the perfect place down which
more over small succulent morsels of foodie adventure.
to hide all such bread crusts and green vegetables as had
Food and menus obey the dictates of fashion. The
peafowl, roast hare, truffles with wine, a crayfish pudding,
found their way on to my plate. There they festered, out
boundless extravagance of the meals eaten by high society
lobster salad, four different joints of roast beef, four pullets,
of sight, until one day Sarah, our maid, saw mice lolling,
throughout the ages – when the majority of the same
a casserole of beans and bacon, a haunch of venison, ham,
sated, among gobbets of old crust spilling out from under
society was living on or below the breadline – is both
tongue, asparagus; then six puddings plus pineapple jelly,
it. The settle was heaved out and I was undone to the last
fascinating and repellent. The same holds true now; a third
cherry tarts, strawberries, peaches, nectarines, grapes,
button. I was watched like a hawk and thus The Eating of
of the world starving, while we in the rich West obsess ever
cherries, figs, raspberries and melons. But guess what the
Meals became a fraught affair. I dealt with it
chef, one M Watier, had? A simple leg of lamb
latterly by not eating at all, in an early unnamed
served with potatoes and French beans. He
and unrecognised case of anorexia for which I
knew what good food was. A true gourmet.
was soundly beaten by the nuns, and I never
One hundred years later, grand food had
ever ate meat again after I saw a pig, which I
become even more ostentatious, rich and
loved and fed, being slaughtered – still haven’t
decadent. A menu for an Edwardian society
got over it. So food, one way or another, was
dinner might include caviar, truffles, snipe,
something with which I had a constant uneasy
partridge, oysters, quail, ptarmigan, pressed
personal relationship and perhaps as a result
beef, ham, tongue, chicken, galantines, lobster,
I have always been fascinated by cooking and
melons, peaches, nectarines and biscuits.
menus and how the preparation of food has
Dinner for 20 people cost around £60, which
changed over the centuries, driven as much as
was more than the annual pay of a maid.
by fashion as by supply and demand and fierce
And I have the menu of a dinner given by my
gastronomic battles, with the French for years
husband’s grandparents, which had 13 courses
holding the high ground.
including Neiges de Clicquot (have you got a
I rarely cook myself but I know how food
clue?) and Timbale de Cailles a la Diane. Quail
should taste and I know what good food tastes
to you and me. Fancy food. And, of course,
like and it’s not as common as one would
always in French.
think. And you don’t have to be rich to eat
One has to think, why did not these
well. In fact as children we lived on fabulous
trenchermen and women get huge? (Although
food; the ingredients of our meals are what
come to think of it the Prince Regent was 22
great chefs dream of now – eggs from the hens
stone when he died and Edward VII was so
which clucked around the door, chicken from
obscenely fat he couldn’t see his willy and ate
the same brood, bacon from the pig, milk and
himself to death. They called it appendicitis.)
cream brought up from the dairy morning
Nowadays food has slimmed down but it has
and evening, and fresh and delicious fish from
been a roller-coaster gastronomic journey.
the lough (everything from salmon and trout
I have seen fashion foods and crazes come
to eels), and vegetables and delicious floury
and go. There was a time when coronation
potatoes from the garden. The only thing
chicken was a staple and many a dainty table
wrong was that no one knew how to cook.
in my younger married days was graced by an
Everything was boiled or fried. And wine?
avocado mousse with prawns nestling in the
30 | March 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
i llu st r at i o n by co r bi s
D
o you know what a settle is? Until
polly devlin middle; and who can forget prawn cocktail with Marie Rose
mosaicks” or her flora Delanica, made by cutting coloured
exquisite beauty. Along with my passion for menus and
sauce? Beef Wellington was the party dish of the 1960s and
paper to make exquisite flowers that are so botanically
cooking I have always had a obsessive interest in decorating
though we had never heard of pasta we knew all about Spag
correct in every minute detail that they can be used for
and ornament, and I’d long heard of how the pelmet for
Bol and we were frightfully sophisticated and cosmopolitan,
reference. She made over 1,000 of these masterpieces until
its soaring windows had been cut with a huge pinked
not to say international, with our bizarre takes on dishes
she was – hang on – until she was 82 years old, cutting
edge in one fell swoop from swathes of taffeta; anyone
purporting to be beef stroganoff or Chinese chop suey,
paper so fine that no-one now knows quite how she did it.
who has ever handled pinking shears will know that once
Swedish meatballs, cassoulet, coq au vin and the ubiquitous
Anyway the point here is that she was also a brilliant
started you cannot stop and start again. John Fowler, the
housekeeper and knew exactly what appetising food
decorating genius behind the firm of Colefax & Fowler,
I missed out on Elizabeth David, supposedly the
should taste and look like. In a letter to her sister in 1744,
described how the nervous cutter wielding the enormous
biggest influence on home cooking of the last century, but
she describes arranging dishes for dinner on her table
pinking shears lost his nerve halfway through the taffeta
I remember buying Arabella Boxer’s seminal book First
“which is a long one and easier to set out than a round
and faltered; the vast swathe had to be abandoned and he
Slice Your Cookbook and being amazed at its cleverness and
or oval one”. (Most dinners of this era consisted of two
began all over again.
simplicity. I put it on a par and on a shelf with Robert Carrier’s
courses, the second course being a mixture of sweet and
By happy chance I was asked to lunch there. As I
Great Dishes of the World, which contained a recipe called
savoury dishes.) Her bill of fare that day was a first course
walked into the apartment I came face to face with an
‘My Colcannon’. I was open-mouthed with astonishment to
of “Turkeys endive, Boyled neck of mutton, Greens etc.
enormous and alluring young beauty in a white tulle gown
discover that colcannon was simply cabbage and champ, and
Soup, plum pudding, roast loin of veal, and venison pasty”.
prettily tied with a pink sash. The painting, by Goya, was
that the most basic dish in the Irish culinary repertoire (not
The second course was “Partridge, Sweetbreads, collared
so big it stretched from floor to ceiling. It was only the
at that time large) was a great dish of the world and, what’s
pig, creamed apple tart, crabs, fricassee of eggs and
first of the treasures in the apartment and there, indeed
more, belonged solely to Mr Carrier.
pigeons. No desserts to be had”. I would have loved to have
intact, was the famous pinked taffeta. The food lived up
I remember soon after I came to London, I met the
been there to have experienced the food and the company.
to its surroundings. Tiny soufflés cooked to perfection;
mythical Robert (who was at the time the most famous
But I have been at the modern equivalent. The best
turbot; wild strawberries. The wine was decanted and
food writer in England, indeed who helped establish the
meals of my life have been the simplest and yet the most
round each decanter was tied a little handkerchief to catch
genre) and, inspired, I made my first and last excursion
recherché. One truly memorable one was eaten in a tiny tin
any drips – though the butler didn’t look as if he did drips.
into gastronomy, flogging home from the Berwick Street
shack, the local pub, on the edge of the Atlantic in Asturias
The Baron commented on each wine, not with ponderous
market in Soho with two enormous carrier bags filled
in the northwest of Spain: course after course of mussels
descriptions but to tell us of the little quarters of the estate
fondue. I got five fondue sets as wedding presents.
with ingredients for coq au vin. I had gone up and down the market to get every ingredient he specified; the recipe said twelve peeled little onions so I’d bought twelve – I’d never seen such stunted vegetables – and the man who sold them to me said I would have to peel them at home, no, he didn’t sell them peeled. Then I spent hours cooking it. Stray friends ate the result without remark of any kind, except one, Dennis, from Northern Ireland, who rolled a pearl-like onion around his plate. “What’s this footery wee thing?” he said, and I gave up on the cooking. Then came Cuisine Légère which was a revelation – no cream, no butter – and Fusion food, a confusing
I was open-mouthed with astonishment to discover that colcannon, the most basic dish in the Irish culinary repertoire, was a great dIsh of the world and, what’s more, belonged solely to Mr Carrier.
where each vintage came from and its characteristics. One I remember as nectar was a white wine reserved only for his table because it was so delicate that it could not be marketed commercially – something to do with mists rising in the morning or the evening in the vineyard and also because it grew in such a small area that only a few bottles were produced. In her book Letters to Marietta 1945-1960, Susan Mary Alsop, the wife of an American diplomat, wrote to her friend in New York, the celebrated socialite and political supporter Marietta Tree, about her life in Paris. Susan Mary moved in the most rarified of circles and at the highest
combination of various forms of ethnic cookery, followed
and angulas and fish which had been landed but an hour
level of society but still got very flushed in the face of a title
swiftly by Pacific Rim (a mix of flavors and cultures) and,
before were cooked in front of us, with the fishermen for
and although she sounds priggish and sycophantic, she
of course, the arrival of sushi.
company, none of us speaking the same language but
gives a fascinating picture of a battered but fundamentally
sharing the communality of taste.
hedonistic society recovering from the Second World War.
Perhaps what is genuinely new is the fashion for molecular gastronomy, most famously found in both
At the other end of the spectrum was a meal in The
She described her Sunday lunch in another Rothschild
Heston Blumenthal’s restaurant The Fat Duck and at El
Albany, a set of 18th-century houses on each side of a lane,
great house, this time at Chamant, north of Paris. “The
Bulli in Spain (just about to close to shrieks of despair from
just off Piccadilly. It is a private, protected and privileged
first course is usually, as at the Duc de Mouchy’s, soft-
foodies all over the world and where, if you managed to get
garden in the very centre of a great city and a more exclusive
boiled fresh eggs accompanied by fingers of buttered toast.
into it – it accommodated 8,000 diners a season, but got
and secret enclave you could hardly find. The late Baron
When one sees this dish in France one knows one is in very
more than two million requests – you could eat Parmesan
Philippe de Rothschild and his second wife Pauline Fairfax
grand company indeed.” To my mind this is downright
marshmallows, popcorn clouds, and lambs brains with sea
Potter – an American fashion designer before her marriage,
inverted snobbery, although the Rothschilds had a point:
urchins and sea grapes). If you go to The Fat Duck (and,
and one of the most elegant women of the 20th century –
for most people, the best food is the freshest food and what
again, you’ll be lucky) you will be given snail porridge.
kept a legendary apartment there. Philippe de Rothschild
you eat when you are hungry.
Food fashion is interwoven with lifestyles, trends, and
had been a playboy, a racing driver, a film producer and was
One last salient thing – food fashions come and go
class. When most of the Irish were living on potatoes and
a poet, aesthete, bon viveur and owner of Chateau Mouton
and certain parts of the world regularly claim superiority
point, Mrs Delany, an 18th-century aristocrat and one of the
Rothschild, one of the most famous vineyards of France,
in the gastronomic stakes. But just this month, French
most civilised, and indeed loved, women who ever lived –
and together they created a palace where every detail was
cuisine has been declared part of the world’s heritage by
she could do anything she turned her hand to – was giving
impeccable. For example, every morning the Baronne
the United Nations. Guy Savoy, the French chef whose
parties where food, and plenty of it, was of paramount
would select the china, tablecloths and napkins to be used
two eponymous restaurants have five – yes five – Michelin
importance. Her house in Dublin (Delville, now the site of
for lunch and dinner that day from books that contained
stars between them, announced: “It is not arrogant
the Bon Secours Hospital in Glasnevin) was a magnet for
swatches and photographs of over 170 patterns. Her “table
or pretentious to say that France is the foundation for
society and her letters are both diverting and an important
landscapes” were famous – one day the table might be all
gastronomy for the planet. It’s a fact.” So there. And let’s
social history of Georgian England and Ireland. At the age
grasses, or tiny trees to create a miniature forest, or mosses
celebrate the fact with a toast of Neige au Clicquot which, I
of 72, and already celebrated, she started over by inventing
and baby orchids.
have just found out, is lemon water ice with Veuve Clicquot
a new form of collage, what she referred to as her “paper
32 | March 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
Their apartment in the Albany had the same flair and
champagne, served in champagne flutes.
Our philosophy is simple:
walkability Style made comfortable.
Available at The Rockport Store, 33 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2 | Clerys Department Store, Lower O’Connell Street, Dublin 1 | rockport.co.uk © 2011 The Rockport Company, LLC. Rockport.®
busy bodies
A Little Help From our Friends we all could do with a bit of help. When we’re lost and looking for directions, for example. When we’re so enmeshed in a work problem that we need an outsider’s perspective. When we’re lugging
a huge suitcase up a flight of stairs, or struggling with a door while carrying heavy bags of groceries. And then there are the days when we require emotional aid, some sage advice to stop our personal lives getting out of control. These are the times when we welcome an offer of help with open arms (well, unless the open arms mean dropping all the heavy things we’re carrying). But sometimes, we get help when we don’t need
‘Little’ being the operative word – but when it comes to offering help, some people just don’t know when to stop. So when does a friendly hand become overbearing interference, asks AnnA CArey
it or, more importantly, don’t want it. Most of us have
While over-helpers may think they’re doing their victims – I mean, friends and family – a favour, they can actually do more harm than good – and not just because their interference is annoying. They can create an unhealthy dependence, totally disempowering the people they supposedly help. Despite their good intentions, they’re subtly manipulating others, whether they realise it or not. This manipulation is evident when their behaviour is challenged. “It’s emotional blackmail,” says Keating. “They can just sit there thinking ‘How ungrateful!’ and then say, ‘I was only trying to help!’, which leaves the person they’re ‘helping’ feeling even lower. That person end up apologising, and the helper gets back in control.” Of course, this makes challenging an over-helper particularly difficult. If someone is being horrible to you, bringing up the issue to their face may be uncomfortable,
encountered the over-helpful friend or relative,
but it’s pretty straightforward. But what if the
someone who can’t see a problem without
problem is just that they’ve been really, really
instantly offering a solution – or indeed can’t
nice? Keating recommends sitting down and
see a situation without discovering a problem
telling them you appreciate their help very
that only she can fix. She’s the person whose
much, but it makes you feel that you’re not
favourite words are “Here, let me do that!”; the
developing the ability to learn from mistakes.
one whose idea of “helping” is actually taking
They may deny this, but you have to make
over. We all know a compulsive helper – and
it very clear how their behaviour makes you
chances are that she drives us mad.
feel. “Just step back and say, ‘When you make
“My mother-in-law is lovely, but she
that phone call to get me a job interview
feels she has to do everything for me and my
you make me feel like a child, like I can’t
husband,” says Áine, a 32-year-old teacher.
do it myself ’. Your tone is key – be non-
“It’s reached the stage that I don’t want her
accusatory, just state the facts, and get them
to come round to the house because she can’t
to understand your experiences.”
walk through the door without seeing about
Of course, you’re probably reading this
ten little things she wants to ‘help’ us with. My
and thinking “Wow, what crazy control
husband is used to her so he just rolls his eyes,
freaks. Thank God I’m not like that!” But
but it drives me insane. It’s like she thinks we’re
are you really so sure? Have you never found
babies who can’t do anything ourselves.”
yourself thinking, “I’m the only person
In Germany, of course, there’s a specific
who can empty the dishwasher/write that
phrase to describe this phenomenon: ‘helper
report/clean the bathroom properly?” and
syndrome’. Coined in 1977 by the psychoanalyst
then either basked in praise or got annoyed
Wolfgang Schmidbauer, it’s used to describe a person
Helper syndrome may not be officially listed in the
because no one else seemed to appreciate your hard
who is addicted to doing things for other people, usually
Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders
work? Have you never enjoyed that ‘helper’s high’? Most
in order to compensate for his or her own feelings of
or the WHO’s International Classification of Diseases,
of us have over-helping tendencies at times. The key is
powerlessness or inadequacy. In 2009, a German woman
but psychologist Allison Keating of Malahide’s bWell
to find a balance between giving help when it’s needed
who worked in a bank transferred money from rich
Clinic has encountered plenty of people who force
and forcing our way of doing things on others. And to
customers’ accounts to cover up the unreliable loans she
their help on others. “If you’re over-helping it gives you
remember that it’s always a good idea to open the door for
was giving to poor ones. When discovered, she claimed
power and control,” she says. And many over-helpers
someone laden down with shopping bags. n
that she was suffering from helper syndrome and couldn’t
get a “helper’s high” from both the power trip and the
bWell Clinic, 12 St James Terrace, Malahide, Co Dublin,
stop herself from helping others.
subsequent thank-yous.
01 845 6070; www.bwell.ie.
34 | March 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
illustrat ion © Wi lli am H aefeli/t He neW York er Col le Cti on/Cartoonbank
T
here are times in our lives when
bulthaup
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mother’s day
The MOTher of all Relationships
For better or for worse, the mother-daughter relationship is one of the most influential in the lives of many women. ANTONIA HART looks beyond the stereotypes to examine its tensions and rewards, and finds out that as you age, you might have more in common with your own mother than you think …
I
t’s the fundamental nature of the motherdaughter relationship that makes it such an influential one in our lives, so bolstering when it is happy, so devastating when there’s a rupture. Though a mother’s love, as anyone’s, may be imperfectly expressed, for the most part it is probably the deepest and longest-lasting we will ever know. But
irritation and blame can get in the way of this natural truth, and sometimes it seems as if mothers take flak no matter what they do. They are too close, they are too distant. They expect too much, they expect too little. They are too present, they are too absent. They comment on everything, they couldn’t give a tuppenny damn. Why does it all matter so intensely? And why do we focus on flaws which we’d understand and overlook in a friend or partner, and hope to have understood and overlooked in ourselves? I spoke to several women of my generation about their relationships with their mothers and though our conversations were often about difficulties, it was hard to miss the waves of love that spilled through them. But amid the love, there is longing: Helen grew up in a big family on the outskirts of a rural town, and though she is now in her forties, she says she is still troubled by a sense of her mother’s disappointment. “My mother didn’t have a job and I’m embarrassed saying I thought less of her for it. When I was about 16 I thought, I’ll never make my life dependent on a man’s, I don’t want to be endlessly keeping dinners warm and counting out the family allowance for the shopping.” Helen went to college in Dublin and then revelled in her first couple of jobs. “Around the time I got married I was on a high of financial independence and babies came along, and bam! I gave it up to stay at home. I know it annoys my mum that I gave up an independent income. My sister works full-time and has a nanny. More flour to her pancake, but it annoys me that my mum is always going on about how great she is. But I’m doing what my mum did. Shouldn’t she be happy?”
36 | March 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
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mother’s day 2 Bridging the generation gap 2
makes Sinead find understanding, rather than blame, for
is divorced, and still living with the same man. “She thinks
her mother. “For sure, but when it’s your mum, you want
because it was 25 years ago we should all have got over it
I wonder, as gently as I can, whether Helen’s reasoning is
her perfect, don’t you?” Understanding comes from other
and go on holiday together and whatever. But it was my
skewed. She assumes her mother wants her daughter to
quarters, too: “I have dreadful headaches, and it’s coming
childhood, how can I get over it? I had stress every day of
mimic her own life. And Helen’s circumstances are not at
back to me now she used to get them. I don’t remember
my life, constantly hoping no-one would find out, or do
all the same as her mother’s were. Putting an enjoyable
her ever taking a day off. When I get a headache I leave the
anything to make me more conscious of it than I was. She
career on hold for a few years so that you can be at home
kids with the childminder and go to bed till I can function
never talked to us about it, never said, this is what’s going
while your children are small is rather different from not
again. Things like that really make me appreciate her.”
to happen, it will all be okay. It just happened around us and we had to deal with the mess. All that history colours
having had a career, ever, because you were a wife and mother. She says her mother has never actually articulated
2 the teens and twenties 2
our non-existent relationship now. A mother shouldn’t leave her child.”
disappointment, any more than Helen as a teenager articulated her dismissiveness of her mother’s way of life.
There are obvious flashpoints in the relationship – the
Kitty Holland experienced the opposite: an unusually
Are they just guessing at one another’s feelings? “Maybe
teenage years being a notoriously sticky patch, with
close relationship with her mother Mary, one of Ireland’s
there’s one almighty conversation waiting to happen,” Helen
Helen’s experience of repeated arguments probably not
finest journalists. “By the time I was going to college, my
acknowledges, “but at this stage I can’t see it happening.”
untypical: “There were nights I went to bed with my throat
mum and I were like a married couple,” Kitty says. “I was
Psychotherapist Trish Murphy, who is also public
sore from shouting at my mother.” Trish Murphy says that
her first port of call for dinner out or to go off travelling.
relations officer for the Family Therapy Association of
no matter how horrible these years, the mother has to hold
As a teenager I was depressed, and I’d had an eating
Ireland, and a mother of two, reckons there’s a lot of
fast to the big picture. “Mothers know what it’s like to be a
disorder, and I bowed out of a lot of what my peers were
unpicking to this sort of emotional knot. “Look at the
teenage girl, the difficulties of self-commentary and self-
doing. Instead I was living a much more adult life, with
women who were mothers in the 1960s, even the 1970s.
imagery, and they hold on tight out of fear. Any teenager
my mum, of restaurants and trips to the ballet.” It sounds
It seems so recent, but even then, they are likely to have
will resist that tightening, just as they’ll resist the idea that
enviable, but Kitty says that by the time she was in her
seen choice on the horizon, but may not have had it
they are not unique.” More drama can come later, when
mid-twenties the intensity of the relationship was too
themselves. It’s a generation of women who worked – in
the daughter becomes a mother, but Maeve’s experience,
much. “It was claustrophobic, and I started to pull away,
a small business, or on the farm, or at home – but they
which I am happy to say echoes my own, rather beautifully
and although it was difficult, I think she wanted me to. I
wouldn’t have said they worked, and they didn’t get the
disproves the stereotype of the interfering mother.
was 26 before I moved out of home, and I was so upset
recognition or money that work brings. Some of them
“When I had my son two years ago, my experience
the night before I left.” Although they spent a lot of time
didn’t even have their names on the deeds of the house.
was the opposite of what you might think. My mother was
together and had many shared interests, their relationship
They pushed their daughters through education, towards
wasn’t straightforward. “I know Mum would hate to be
an independent income, knowing how important it was.”
characterised like this, but she had difficulty in showing
So far, so straightforward. But Murphy says that’s just the baseline. “There’s a whole tangle of feelings. The mothers’ success is measured by having raised and educated their children – so it’s measured by their children’s absence. Imagine the resentment that leaves. And I think they felt, maybe feel, envious of their daughters for having the freedoms they didn’t.”
2 repeating patterns 2
“Sadly, we do live in a mother-blaming culture. this is the flipside of the fact that for many, the mother is the single most influential person in their lives.”
and receiving love. I think she was pressing down an emotional pain from her childhood, and from being sent off at the age of three to boarding school.” Kitty thinks the differences in their characters may stem from this. “She had this single-minded passion: justice in Northern Ireland, and I’m incredibly proud of what she did because of it. I’m not single-minded, though. I focus on work, of course I do, but I focus on my emotional life too. The attitude Mum grew up with was that it was self-indulgent to focus on emotion.”
Sinead, who grew up in a midlands town in the 1970s, says that while she didn’t think about it at the time, she
so gentle with me, she reassured me that I was doing the
now feels her mother was often withdrawn from her young
right thing, kept telling me I was great. I was overwhelmed
family. “I worry that I’m getting like her. I remember these
with love for her, because I realised, from the way I felt
Often we look for differences, and it can come as
silences in the house, there would be sulking for days, I
about my little boy, the way she felt about me. It knocked
something of a shock to realise that your life, and you, can
absolutely hated it as a child, but I know I’m the same now.
me out, that realisation of how much she loved me.”
be studded with similarities to your mother’s, and her. One
2 LiKe Mother, LiKe daUghter 2
Not so much with the kids, but I don’t want to talk to my
Adulthood does not bring such realisations to
day you catch sight of your suddenly aging hands as you
husband, I just want him to understand, immediately,
everyone: one woman I spoke to has still not, in
adjust the volume on the radio, the next you acknowledge
what’s wrong with me. I know it’s daft but I can’t help it.
adulthood, been reconciled with her mother. “When I
the attraction in Jeremy Paxman and you know the game
Drives him nuts. And it causes us real problems.”
was 12, my mother met someone else and left my dad to
is up. Despite their close relationship, Kitty says she
Murphy says that it’s common for our own intimate
live with him, but what I remember most about my teens
hadn’t dwelt much on her mother’s influence until after
relationships to be shaped by our relationships with our
was not the loss of her, but being so embarrassed about
her mother died. Her legacy is a collage of big ideas and
mothers. “A child who doesn’t have a chance to develop
it. That’s a much stronger memory than the loss – maybe
domestic details. “Like her, I’m a journalist with The Irish
that first essential relationship – say because of being at
because she wasn’t actually gone completely. I hated going
Times, I’m a single mother with two children and my taste
boarding school – can be affected greatly in later life. They
to her new house, though. Our house was very traditional,
is influenced by hers.”
can have tremendous difficulty in forming and sustaining
her new house was light and pretty and just exactly the
Trish Murphy says taking the best of what your mother
an intimate relationship.” She recommends caution in
kind of house I desired, really desired, but I could never
gives you is the key. “Don’t focus on her flaws, why would
laying everything at your mother’s door, though. “Because
enjoy it because of the emotional price we had had to pay.
you? Treat her with respect, take her advice seriously even
they are such powerful figures you have to be very careful
I see that now – then I was just torn.” It happened at a time
if you don’t agree with it. Acknowledge the sacrifices she
in therapy. Sadly, we do live in a mother-blaming culture.
when there was still no divorce in an Ireland still dripping
made for you, and just love her back.”
This is the flipside of the fact that for many, the mother is
with disapproval for behaviour considered a transgression.
And perfection? There’s no such animal. So let’s forgive
the single most influential person in their lives.”
“There were girls at school who weren’t allowed to come if
them for being imperfect mothers, and hope they’ll return
it was her house I was in that weekend.” Now, her mother
the favour to their imperfect daughters.
I wonder whether the fact that she has similar traits
38 | March 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
Enjoy CORK DRY GIN Sensibly. Visit
PROMOTION
Picking your way through the minefield of manners:
This month ... buying Irish
O
ne of the New Yorkers, were you? Popped over once for the
spring/summer collections, once for a glimpse of autumn/ winter, and once just so you’d have a Bloomingdale’s bag peeping out of your recycling for Annabella on the corner to
eyeball as she walked little Nutella down to her Suzuki lesson? Well, think again, my lovely, put your plane money into that dear little crackle-glazed pottery piggy bank, and save it up to spend at home, because today’s sensitive shopper is buying Irish. You don’t want to look crass and economically under-educated, now do you, darlings? Naturally I’ve been a localist for years, and
Yes, I know on the interweb you can shop in your pyjamas, but really, the country can’t afford for you to be so feeble. If you must be so unimaginative, stick to Irish sites. The rest of you, get acquainted with the supper menu at
YES, I KNOW ON THE INTERWEB YOU CAN SHOP IN YOUR PYJAMAS, BUT REALLY, THE
COUNTRY CAN’T AFFORD FOR YOU TO BE SO FEEBLE.
your corner café, save up for Irish-made Easter eggs in that marvellous little delicatessen, and sort the May wedding wear at an independent boutique. Right. Some of you stickler legal types (I know you
live for my column) are going to be bleating about free movement of goods or some such, but let’s admit the pile upon absolute pile of instances where as a simple matter of taste and quality one couldn’t countenance
personally, I’ll never shop at an online book warehouse again. Take your cue from me (ah, that’s one piece of truly timeless advice): chuck your online shopping habit, and walk to your local bookshop to
anything but the Irish. Would you want to tip down that elegant neck any oyster that wasn’t a native of Carlingford? No, nor would you ever give up your Tipperary farmhouse cheese, your Wicklow
your broadband pipe right out of the country. The village feel and sense of community was one of the reasons you coughed up and moved in, wasn’t it? Well, time for a little quid pro quo. (You may have had to take
in which you drench your Wexford strawberry, there’s no such catch with a Cork Dry Gin and tonic. If you’re still desperate to show off that dog-eared
browse amid flesh-and-blood customers, instead of dripfeeding money down ILLUSTRATION BY LYNN NALTY
parse a little Latin and let you know you gets what you gives.)
Fernando out of Tots’ Academy, but he should still be able to
lamb, your Galway girl. And though you may have to import the champagne
Bloomingdale’s bag, just drag it along to the grocery shopping.
friend poachers
open season It’s a familiar story: you make a fabulous new acquaintance, introduce her to your friends and, before you know it, your NBF has moved in for the kill, and you’re out in the cold. Fair game? Katy Mc GuINNess thinks not ...
A
s a child, I was not as adept at
that you handle the situation says a lot about you. And do
navigating the difficult terrain
you like what it says?
Of course, if we don’t like the idea of our friends getting on with each other, if we’re insecure enough to fret
of friendships – of fallings in
Whatever the initial hook, the spark that sets the train
about being usurped, then we should keep them apart. As
and fallings out, of secrets and
in motion, friend poaching tends to play out in the same
a friend-management strategy, it’s one employed by many.
lies – as some of my peers. And
way whatever the age of the protagonists – the mores of
Sammie turned out to be a serial friend-poacher and
so, on more than one occasion,
adult friendship being barely more sophisticated than
Jill retreated from the friendship after her third strike.
I fell victim to the wiles of the
those of the playground. And the emotional carnage that
For a while, Jill found the turning down of invitations
friend-poacher, while my own attempts at usurpation
a friend-poacher leaves in their wake is no less devastating
and deliberate self-exclusion from Sammie’s orbit hard,
tended to the clumsy, their results short-lived. In response
to a 30-something than it is to a 13 year old.
but after a year or so it didn’t hurt any more. A ruthless
to these social defeats, of which there were many, my
Jill used to be friends with someone who turned out to
social-climber, Sammie’s career as a friend-poacher has
mother was wont to trot out the platitude “New friends
be a friend-poacher supreme. Let’s call her Sammie. A few
reached stratospheric heights, with Jenny and Brian long
may be silver, but old friends are gold”.
years back, Jill had a dinner party to which she invited a
since left behind in favour of more glamorous prospects.
In essence, her well-meaning words – placing, as they
disparate bunch of people – friends from different parts of
Her campaigns are aided by deep pockets and an enviably
did, a premium on loyalty above all else – meant that it
her life, whom she thought might get on – Sammie and her
privileged lifestyle. Sammie’s strategy of seduction,
was better to stick with the old, dull friend that you had
husband, Gerard, and another couple, Brian and Jenny,
observed at close quarters by those who know her game
grown tired of or maybe had nothing in common with any
among them. The evening was a success, the alchemy
(only too well) is nothing more subtle than a slow
more, just because you had known them for a long time,
happened. People rolled home at four in the morning.
deflowering by the dripping of riches in the path of those
rather than take up with a new arrival offering the promise
On the phone to Jill a few days afterwards, Jenny
who really should know better but are instead flattered
of who knew what fun and excitement. In the role of the
asked her old friend if she was going to a particular gig
and see no reason not to succumb, particularly when the
person left behind, moping at home while my former
that coming weekend. Jill wasn’t, and thought no more of
array of temptations is so bloody irresistible.
best friend swanned off to the shopping centre to browse
it. Jenny didn’t mention that Sammie had already invited
the make-up counters, I found her words offered cold comfort. And when I was the poacher or willing poachee, I knew that she was just plain wrong. What could possibly be amiss about forming a new and exhilarating bond with someone whose interests so closely paralleled my own that our friendship was surely meant to be? In childhood, the new girl might have gone horseriding (like me!), or been obsessed with The Brady Bunch (like me!) or loved Marc Bolan (like me!). These days, the common ground – the territory on which the complicated dance of adult friendship is conducted – is more likely to be Pilates, or Jonathan Franzen or a shared interest in opera or surfing or hill-walking (Like me! Like me! Like me!).
Sammie invariably targets people who are the friends of friends. New acquaintances find themselves
Friend poaching tends to play out in the same way whatever the age of the protagonists, the mores of adult Friendship being barely more sophisticated than those of the playground.
Or maybe it isn’t any of those things. Maybe it’s that
bombarded with invitations to dinners and race meetings, concerts and gallery openings, and gifts that are too extravagant for the depth and duration of the friendship in the furtherance of which they are bestowed. Liz is another former friend of Sammie’s who has had her cache of friends mined ruthlessly. “I could draw a Venn diagram of the various groups of my friends that she has annexed. I can even tell you who she’s going to target next, who she’s got in her sights. It’s as if she doesn’t trust herself to make her own friends so she targets other people’s, because they’ve been pre-vetted. I used to feel as if I was there primarily to do her friend sourcing for her.” Liz wonders why her targets don’t find Sammie’s
instant click between two people who have just met and
her. And so the collusion between poacher and willing
behaviour off-putting, creepy even – “What she does is so
like each other on sight so much so that they forget all
poachee was already underway. A week or two later,
crass, so blatant, that I can’t understand why people don’t
the rules by which grown-ups are supposed to conduct
when Jill bumped into Sammie, a throwaway remark
see through it” – but once upon a time she too was under
their friendships and simply can’t help themselves from
from the latter left Jill in no doubt that the new friends
Sammie’s spell.
plunging headlong into the thrilling embrace of mutual
had met up several times since. Without inviting her. Jill
One of the appeals of friend-poaching – for the
admiration.
remembers feeling winded, as if she had been punched
poacher and poachee – particularly when it’s a mutual
When you have two friends who you think will like
in the stomach. Then she came across the pair having
girl-crush situation, is that it offers all the thrill of an affair
each other very much, there is a dilemma about whether
coffee together in the place that she and Sammie used to
– the getting to know someone, the hours spent talking,
or not to introduce them to one another. If you do, you
frequent. Fast forward a couple of months and Brian and
the sharing of intimacies, the knowledge that the other
run the risk of them liking each other more than they like
Jenny were holidaying at Sammie and Gerard’s villa in
person finds you as fascinating as you find them – with
you and finding yourself left out. If you don’t, for fear of
Quinta do Lago. The year before, it had been Jill. She had
none of the consequences. The sneaking around hoping
that very thing, it marks you out as controlling. The way
been dumped.
not to meet the person from whom you’ve poached, and
40 | March 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
Don’t mind if I do. And I’ll help myself to your best friend while I’m at it ...
the making of plans behind her back, are akin to the kind
addresses from the person making the initial introduction
It’s natural to aspire to certain friendships because of what
of skulduggery that goes on when two people are in the
is circumvented. It’s not unusual to come home from
they say about you. It’s as simple as “that person is cool/
throes of an illicit liaison. Poacher and poachee often
a night out at a dinner party and find friend requests in
beautiful/talented/creative – if I’m friends with them, I will
begin to dress in the same way, to develop a similar look.
from people with whom you parted company less than
be seen as cool/beautiful/talented/creative too”.
It’s not just women who poach friends. David, who
an hour before. Of course, in Facebook-land ‘friendship’
Few want their circle of friends to remain static
works in software development, introduced a work
bears scant relation to the traditional understanding
and unmoving. Taking it as read that most of us are
colleague to another friend over a pint. The two guys hit
open in principle to the making of new friends, that we
it off but David thought no more of it. A few weeks later
are generally amenable to the expansion of our social
he was surprised – and, he admitted, a bit hurt – to come across the two of them having lunch together. They hadn’t invited him to join them. Another man told me about the efforts he had gone to help a friend of his who had been made redundant find a new job. “I made what I would consider a big ask to another friend whom I knew might be in a position to help – and he did. It was the kind of request that has put me under a compliment to him, but now the two of them are great pals, off mountain-biking and doing triathlons together and I
Ah yes, Facebook. The social networking site has made life much easier for the ambitious friend-poacher. It’s SO DAMN EASY to initiate a friendship online.
haven’t seen either of them for months. I only know all this
friends without hurting the old ones? As in every other aspect of human interaction, honesty, sensitivity and transparency are the watchwords. It is not cool to bypass the introducing friend immediately – at least for the first couple of times that poacher and poachee meet, the original friend in common should be included. Making friends with our friends’ friends is not something that shouldn’t happen per se, but it becomes something malign and sinister when the poacher wants the poachee for themself, to the deliberate exclusion of the original
from the photos they put up on Facebook.” PH OTO G RA P H BY G E T T Y
networks, what are the rules for the making of new
friend. The flipside is the need to recognise that old
Ah yes, Facebook. The social networking site has made
of the concept and the wobbly line that distinguishes
friendships are not always golden, that they may not
life much easier for the ambitious friend-poacher. It’s so
business from personal networking – it’s all social, after
worth hanging on to just because they have the virtue
damn easy to initiate a friendship online, where the most
all – serves to validate overtures that might otherwise be
of longevity – but perhaps no others. Relinquishing a
tangential of relationships can be pursued with impunity,
seen as inappropriate.
friendship that has gone stale can be a relief, and makes
and the need for having to ask for phone numbers or email
We all define ourselves by the circles in which we move.
space for a new, shiny silver one.
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | March 2011 | 41
0588
Sunray pleated dress €98, Tan shoulder bag €128. Both J by Jasper Conran.
R u o l o c chaos
y! d a e R l gh a u o t c n e e j n ? i y d t an eRi t r s u u o l a o ts c h ? g t i t r u n i b o b a x a R intbo ions Rest a t i p b i h f n o i r e t u t o e y l a p e s lo h a t i w y t i v some le tus Li sa Lo f a Ph e d by Ph o t o g r z r ig u e Lu is r o d St y le d by
Coral pleat-front silk dress, MaxMara. Blue suede Newton shoes, Christian Louboutin. Silk corsage, at CostuMe.
fashion note : MaxMara is at 723 Lisburn Road, Belfast and Brown Thomas, Dublin; www.maxmara.com. Christian Louboutin is at Brown Thomas, Dublin. For stockists, www.thegloss.ie.
r s
Coral cotton Doby trench; coral cotton shirtdress; both Mulberry. Raspberry Sorbet patent leather bag; spearmint patent leather belt; both burberry.
fashion note : Mulberry accessories are at House of Fraser, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16; fashion is at www.mulberry.com. Burberry accessories are at www.burberry.com,
Ribbon print linen dress, tan leather rope belt; both Vionnet.
fashion note : Vionnet is at Brown Thomas, Dublin and www.net-a-porter.com.
Strap
Red leather tunic, Escada sport. Purple cropped trousers, MaxMara. Neon yellow platform shoes, Brian atwood. Red resin ring, dinosaur dEsigns.
f a s h i o n n o t e : Escada and Escada Sport are at Brown Thomas and Richard Alan; www.richardalan.ie.
14 | September 2009 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
Strap
Coral and white cotton zip top, Marni. Stripe cotton cropped trousers, Tory Burch. Green Donna platform sandals, Sonia rykiel.
f a s h i o n n o t e : Tory Burch is at Brown Thomas. Tory Burch has recently opened a boutique at 149 New Bond Street, London; www.toryburch.com.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | September 2009 | 15
Strap
Stripe tunic dress, Sonia Rykiel. Coloured resin bangles, DinoSauR DeSignS.
fashion note : Sonia Rykiel is at www.soniarykiel.com. Dinosaur Designs is at www.dinosaurdesigns.com.
14 | September 2009 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
Strap
Monkey print cotton top; green stripe cotton skirt; both Prada. Orange eel skin pumps, Manolo Blahnik.
f a s h i o n n o t e : Prada is at Brown Thomas, Dublin; www.brownthomas.ie.
photographed by Lisa Loftus. Styled by Luis rodriguez for Utopia NYC. Hair by Marcelino using Bumble and bumble at www.laterliernyc.com. Make-up by Gregg Brockington for Yonka paris at Judy Casey Inc.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | September 2009 | 15
first person
the way back
a childhood stammer didn’t stop Ian GalvIn, chairman of aurora Fashions Ireland and business columnist, from becoming a success – in fact, it taught him early on how to mask his anxieties from the rest of the world. yet after battling alcoholism, worse was to come in the form of an addiction to prescription drugs. here he shares the rollercoaster journey that brought him full circle ...
P
erhaps everyone needs a bit of grit in their oyster to succeed. Mine was a stammer, and although they say you’re not born with one, it was there by the time I went to school. Mocked by the boys and pilloried by the teachers, I lived in dread, particularly of English
lessons. “Th” was the killer, but there were other sounds as well, and reading aloud was an exercise in humiliation and embarrassment. To survive, I learned to change the words I couldn’t handle, until it took no more than a split second, my eyes racing ahead, making sure that the new word or phrase would work with what followed. In the process I learned to think more quickly than those around me. I learned to disguise my fear and almost all other emotions. I learned that the only safe world was one that I controlled. My parents ran a drapery business in Tramore, Co Waterford, selling everything from back-to-school shoes to Levi’s and Wrangler. In terms of womenswear, my mother was very creative, with a sharp eye for fashion. The whole business fascinated me, and by the time I was at boarding school – a huge relief and far removed from a phone box. How much did we take? What did you buy? On my visits back home, I’d jump straight into the shop window and turn it around. Then I’d pore over the books, until I was ready to drop. I was both dyslexic and dyspraxic. My hand-to-eye coordination was non-existent and my inability to play football or hurling added to my misery, so I forced myself to excel at running. I learned to check and double-check my spellings. I could cope with anything by developing strategies to compensate. But the stress was intense, and when it spilled over into panic my pulse would race to terrifying levels, my heart lurching inside my chest as if it might burst from my body. There had to be some release. At school it was cider, when we’d climbed out of the dormitory windows and hit the local disco. At Trinity, it was the pub. Most nights, a
54 | March 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
photog raph by siobhan byrne; sh ot on location at th e morg an
the stereotype – I would quiz her every day, calling from
first person gang of us would go on the tear, country lads in Dublin
August 2006 found me in France for Georgina and
for the first time. But while others fell by the wayside, I
Nicky Byrne’s wedding. I was sitting with Karen, Ronan
already had the strategies to cope. I read quickly, could
and Yvonne Keating, and Louis Walsh when, without any
They were expecting me, she said. The Priory?
pick up the gist and write an essay as easily as down a
warning at all, I collapsed. For the previous few months I’d
Ridiculous. I was going back to Dublin, and I would
pint. Who cared that I forgot it three days later? It was the
been losing weight and people had told me that I looked
go to the Rutland Centre, if anywhere. “I’m not giving
same with exams, which I passed with honours.
sick, but I had taken no notice. Now I had no choice. I
you a choice in this, Ian. I will not watch you sabotage
weighed a little over eight stone and was very ill indeed.
your career. You’re going to the Priory in Roehampton.”
My first real knock came when we lost the family
had become. “And it has got to stop,” Karen said. “You’re going to the Priory.”
business – four shops by then. Although barely out of my
Six months of chemotherapy followed, combined
She said I knew too many people in Ireland. I had to
teens, I learned the hard way what over-trading meant.
with steroids to build me up and Xanax to calm me down.
go somewhere nobody would buy into my bullshit. She
There were mitigating factors: Ireland was in chronic
Xanax is a benzodiazapine, an anti-anxiety drug, and
stood over me while I paid out an a11,000 deposit on my
recession, and we’d had a hard winter – six weeks of snow
while highly efficient, is highly addictive, and it was like
credit card over the phone. Seven days. No going back.
– which had led to an insurmountable cashflow problem.
handing a child the key to a sweetshop. I didn’t waste
The Priory is a stucco, gothic extravaganza straight
But I’d been the one driving our expansion and I felt
time. At one point, I had five different doctors prescribing,
out of Sleeping Beauty. But that’s where the fantasy ends.
responsible. My parents had always been my bedrock, but
and five different pharmacies dispensing – because it was
Inside it’s a prison. Your keys are taken, your phone is
– largely through my guilt – we were moving apart.
better than any drink, better than any glamour drug,
taken. Your luggage is searched. And you’re locked in.
Over the next 20 or so years, I enjoyed a lifestyle that
better than anything I had ever known. I was cunning
I decided to get out as quickly as I could. I’d go cold
was scarcely believable. As a buyer for Brown Thomas, I
and clever, and it was worth any amount of lying and
turkey and be out by Tuesday, I told myself. I’d done it
helped transform it into a truly international department
scheming to build up my stock. It wasn’t a question of
with alcohol, and I’d been on that for years. I’d only been
store – the only place in Ireland you could buy high-
getting high, I was simply calm. The panic attacks that
on Xanax for six months, so it couldn’t be that hard. I’d
end fashion, and I travelled the world to find it. As for
had dogged my life since the terrible stammering days,
book myself a couple of massages and it would be like a
my friends, they were the new Irish elite, the sharp edge where film, music and fashion sparked off each other. We drank champagne instead of Guinness, we chose wine by price rather than taste. And I soon learned that alcohol wasn’t the only way of getting high. But I handled it well. I was never late for a meeting the morning after, and I’d always be razor sharp. Did I have an alcohol problem? Of course not! I was having the time of my life. But friends at the time, among them Van Morrison, were under no illusions. “You’re drinking too much,” he and Michelle told me one night. And while there were mad nights to come, he often talked about the power of the twelve-step programme. He kept pushing me in that direction. By 2002 I was adrift. The kings and queens of the counter culture that I’d hung out with in the 1990s had gone corporate. The party was stopping. I didn’t fit in with the U2 set, I didn’t fit in with my family. I didn’t fit
long weekend.
One morning I woke up in Karen’s London flat to find her standing at the door looking at me. “You’re an embarrassment,” she said. And then,
moment by excruciating moment, she recounted what had happened the previous night.
in with my gay life. That Christmas I booked myself into
“You have to surrender,” the consultant told me. I wasn’t about to surrender. I’d already cracked AA. I would do this my way, as I did everything else. To emphasise how in control I was, I decided not to eat. But I couldn’t stop my therapist talking to me. “Ian, do you know where you are?” “The Priory,” I said, savouring the glamour of it. “You are in a hospital. In fact you’re not just in a hospital, you’re in a psychiatric hospital.” I fought with the Priory for nearly a week. By this time the detox was not going well and I was on a drip. Slowly I started to listen, above all to the therapists, who were all former addicts. I engaged with other patients. A key part of the recovery programme is recognising your own frailty and taking responsibility for another human being. And I surrendered. I learned to live with my anxiety. I learned that it would be painful, but it would pass. I learned not to fight a situation. I was there for six weeks.
The Shelbourne. I was at rock bottom. Instead of clothes,
were history; any hint of a tremor or a racing heart and I’d
At the end of my stay I was given three challenges. The
I packed twelve cases of champagne and stashed them
down another pill, and then another, upping the dose as
first was to make amends to the people whose evening I
in the wardrobe. But what happened to them, whether I
I went. But I was still coherent, still functioning. Nobody
had ruined. I did. I invited them to a charity dinner and
drank them or shared them, I have no idea. I remember
knew there was anything wrong.
I think that they valued being part of my recovery, and
seeing Pat Kenny in the lobby, and he looked at me as if to
One morning I woke up in Karen’s London flat to
they understood. The second was to spend a week in a
find her standing at the door looking at me. “You’re
monastery to work on my spiritual side. I did. I went to
So I tried AA. I literally walked in off the street and it
an embarrassment,” she said. And then, moment by
Mount Mellory in Co Waterford. The third was to find
was like “Oh my God, there are 50 people in this room and
excruciating moment, she recounted what had happened
a puppy, the same age as my sobriety, and to give him a
they’re all like me!” The relief of hearing everybody else’s
the previous night. We’d had dinner at an exceptionally
home. Now here was a problem: I didn’t like animals, and
problems ... People said that if you did 90 meetings in 90
smart London restaurant, twelve of us, mainly in fashion,
I lived in an apartment. As for my lifestyle … But then I
days, it would change your life. So that’s what I did. Read
and the rest of them were in great form. But I felt
found Boo Boo, a wonderful black-and-tan Cavalier King
the Big Book? I sat up for three nights to finish it. I would
disconnected. I turned down the offer of champagne and
Charles, and we have been constant companions since
even cram in three meetings a day. Until my brother Philip
went down to the men’s room where I took two Xanax,
February 2008.
said, “Ian, you’ve got to stop this madness”.
the purple ones, the strongest they get. I came back to
I continue to go to AA meetings, because you are never
I had simply swapped one addiction for another. Even
the table. But I still felt left out … so back down I went,
totally cured, but it’s fair to say that my stay in the Priory
so, it worked and I began to experience little glimmers
and took another two pills, but that’s where my memory
changed my life. And taking everything I had learned there
of brightness. Careerwise, too, things were changing. I
stopped. Karen kindly filled me in. I had come back up and
with me, I returned to Tramore and bought a Victorian
watched the emergence of high street-meets-designer-at-
collapsed over the table. And far, far worse … I felt myself
house opposite where my mother still lives. Over the last
a-price-point, and decided that this was where my future
shrink from the horror of it.
three years I have brought it back to its former glory. I
say, ‘Do something. You need help’.
lay, and after a couple of false starts, I set up the Karen
“You’re an embarrassment.”
have restored relationships I had forgotten over the years
Millen franchise in Ireland. I was clean and I was sober
It was like being branded. It was like having a hot
and created my own dream space to live in, on the street
and for three years I began to feel I would be okay. And in
iron stamp the words across my forehead. For me to be an
where I was born. I feel I have come full circle. n
Karen herself I found a true friend.
embarrassment … It summed up everything that my life
Told in conversation with Penelope Dening.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | March 2011 | 55
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Beauty Strap
Spring Kit
fox by name Have you ever trailed through department stores uninspired, then suddenly chanced upon a dress so inherently beautiful that you submit to its unabashed glamour and let it wear you? This shimmering, flashbulb-ready make-up look, as worn by megan fox, the brand new face of armani Cosmetics, has the same effect, needing only a simple dress to backlight it beautifully. make-up artist Linda Cantello used the armani Transluminence eye Palette, applying rich Purple Iris and Dewy forest Green to the eyelid to create a vibrant blue turquoise. To create even more luminosity, she layered this with frozen Silver to open up the eye, adding a touch to the inside corner. next, she lined the eyelid with Soft black eye colour, applied wet, and finished off with lashings of eyes to Kill excess mascara. abelia Pink fluid Sheer no 7 foundation gives a translucent glow to the face: it’s set with Translucent Loose Powder and Rouge D’armani lipstick in early morning Rose. not leaving it to make-up to do all the work, ms fox places great emphasis on cleansing, using sunscreen and a healthy diet to preserve that dewy glow. She also believes it is fundamental to possess confidence and self-belief. apparently, being “confident but secretive” is the key to lasting allure. Suzanne LowRy Armani Cosmetics, Brown Thomas, Dublin and Cork.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | March 2011 | 57
BEAUTY
..
elf . s r u o y e Gorg
Y T U BEA
T E F BUF H S MONT ON THI
’S M E N U
Calypso
L’Absolu Nu
Pure Color
Palette Pink
Skin Illusion
Blush Gelée
The spring lines revealed a little more flesh than last year, so for a flash of pretty skin, dust your décolletage with YSL’s recently launched LIMITED EDITION PALETTE PINK CELEBRATION.This glistening powder-pink gem gives a subtle satiny finish and doubles as a highlighter to revive fatigued, dull complexions. a53. Add a flash of chic individuality to a workaday trouser suit or dress by coordinating lip and nail colours. Estée Lauder’s new PURE COLOR lip shades come in juicy, sumptuous shades like Raspberry and Bitten Fig, and each has a matching nail colour. So convenient … For an everyday look, try nails in Mushroom (a23) with matching Vanilla Truffle lipstick (a20). Swiss-born Paris-based designer Robert Piguet was an early influence on Dior, Balmain and Givenchy – he’s most famous for Fracas, his heady perfume classic. With base notes of ambergris and patchouli, middle notes of Bulgarian rose and top notes of geranium and mandarin, CALYPSO, the latest issue from the House of Piguet, is deeply, darkly delicious. a67. Novelty-lovers to a woman, we thought the sponge applicator – a little
like a shoe polish – in Givenchy’s limited edition BLUSH GELÉE was a nifty way to deliver soft colour to cheeks. Candide Pink is fun and innocent, just like Voltaire’s hero. a31.50. Clarins SKIN ILLUSION SPF10 MINERAL & PLANT EXTRACTS may not exactly trip off the tongue but we like what it does. A “light-optimizing+complex” lies behind a natural-looking finish and a hydrated feel. A defence system of SPF, anti-pollution and antioxidant ingredients promises protection against the elements. a29. One of the thrills of spring has to be browsing for a new lipstick. Although not on counter until April 1, we couldn’t wait to tell you about Lancôme’s L’ABSOLU NU, a new range of twelve nude lipsticks. A slick of subtle colour, they are perfect for making the transition from winter’s deeper hues. Since the colour of the moment seems to be a pink/coral hybrid – yes, try it – we chose shade number 302. a25. Hands up how many of you love Issey Miyake’s original fragrance?
L’EAU D’ISSEY FLORALE is a soft rosy blend anchored with bark and ginger lily. It’s floral but not overpoweringly so, and pleasingly complex. a47.50.
LEARN TO GIVE A FIG
TOO EARLY TO TAN? Not at all. A subtle glow goes a long way to dispel winter’s pastiness and ease us into dressing for spring. We officially declare it open season on self-tan, and celebrate the appearance of bonnes mines at various desks. We tried He-Shi’s new Tinted Self-tanning Foam (a30 at Brown Thomas) which glides on, leaving an even, consistent glow, then develops to a slightly deeper, naturally golden tone. A sample of German organic cosmetics brand Lavera Selftanning Shimmer Spray (a11.95 at pharmacies and some health stores) caused a ruckus: everyone looks for an odour-free tan and this is a fresh scented gel with lavender and rose which develops quickly to an even tan. An in-office survey revealed, on the other hand, how only the bravest will ditch the opaques before April.
58 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
A City Escape ...
S
ome spa days are damp squibs, let’s face it, a waste of time and money. All that shuffling from appointment to appointment, with endless waiting in between, trying desperate ly to relax. Happily, others are lovely little oase s in a busy calendar, where, for four or five hours, you feel as if your mind and body might just connect. If this sounds more like it, we can recomme nd the City Escape at the ESPA Spa at the RitzCarlton hotel in Powerscourt in Co Wicklow, which costs a150 per person and includes lunch, unlimited access to the thermal suite, hammam and pool, as well as the Serenity Room. (It was so quiet that my iPod -less other half turned tail and scarpered as I relax ed with my book. In fact, next time I would arriv e early just to avail of uninterrupted reading time.) A quick questionnaire was followed by a dip in the pool and thermal suite, just to unwind. A nice light lunch (in bathrobes) was followed by treatments: for me, three half-hour minis: a sea salt and hot oil scrub , a back and neck massage and a facial. All Espa, all wond erful, all
administered, crucially, by the same person in the same room, with no waiting and no dressing and undressing. So pleased was my husband with a knockout treatment for the full 90 minutes – a special men’s facial with massage – I caught him buying products in the reception as we checked out. “Beautifully appointed” almost doesn’t go far enough to describe the spa’s facilities – everything works reassuringly smoothly. Barely out of my bathrobe, I suggested that we might do it again for my birthday. As it happens, having foolishly expressed a wish to lose some weight, he gave me a pair of Lycra tights and a pink jacket to go running in. But I have plans to return. SMcD The City Escape at the Ritz-Carlton, Powerscourt, Co Wicklow; 01 274 8888; www.ritzcarlton.com.
BEAUTY Pot Rouge Shea Butter Mini-Slant Tweezers Creamy Concealer
Eau de Lacoste Vert
Facial Wash
There are few products that really do double duty but L’Occitane SHEA BUTTER POTS – we like Vineyard Rose and Orange Honey – serve as both lip balm and cuticle cream, a salve for dry patches, even an eyebrow tidier. A little goes a very long way. – and the design of the pots is fabulous. a12.50.
Dish of the Day
Bourjois’ latest mascara innovation,
VOLUME FAST & PERFECT, has a new auto-rotating brush. Switch it on and you have a full, false-lash effect – in a good way – in record time. Sort of fantastic, in a bonkers way. a16.99.
Shower Oil
Ruth Doyle, a long-established masseuse and facialist who counts Rihanna and all sorts of celebs among her clientele.
THE USP:
Doyle believes facial muscles must be massaged in a similar fashion to body muscles, helping to improve circulation and thus enhancing the complexion. THE
APPROACH: She began with an upper
body massage. Speaking as one of the few people on the planet who doesn’t normally enjoy massages, I actually found this very relaxing, as I opted for ‘light’ pressure. The facial itself was wonderful, each product (predominantly REN – although Doyle has no allegiance to
has a beauty pattern she sticks to …
I LEAD SUCH A BUSY LIFE, factoring in three small children, work and a lot of travel (to Paris to source fabric and wools and to Portugal to oversee production for my clothes, leather bags, belts and shoes), that I try to keep my skincare routine very simple, using the same ‘less is more’ philosophy I apply to my design. First thing, in a very quick shower, I use Nivea Facial Wash,
New EAU DE LACOSTE VERT, BLEU AND BLANC are the sportiest, freshest of fragrances. Designed for men, of course we have commandeered them as our own, our favourite being Vert, with its grassy whiff of tennis court and summer on the way … From a40, at Lacoste, 12 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2.
TRIED: Facial at Mellow, Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2; www.mellow.ie. WHO’S BEHIND MELLOW?
RÓISÍN LINNANE, fashion designer
Everything Mascara
Talking of tidy eyebrows, Tweezerman’s new range of MINISLANT TWEEZERS – best for brows – consists of adorable designs including this Dragonfly one. An inexpensive way to cheer up your make-up purse. a15.
TREATMENT TEST
“ This Month I’ll Use ...”
L’Occitane Almond Shower Oil and, once or twice a week, Sanctuary Spa Sea Salt Scrub from Boots. I wash my hair every day with L’Oréal Elvive shampoo and conditioner and use a really good salon hairdryer, the Turbo Stratus 3800, which cuts drying time in half. I use Clinique SPF40 Face Block or Roc Soleil SPF50 every day on face, neck and chest. My make-up is all Bobbi Brown. I have quite UTY BILL ÍN’S BEA
RÓIS
sensitive skin and have reacted to other make-
5.45 al Wash t Nivea Faci Oil t18.50 d Shower on m Al s t12.60 L’Occitane b at Boot g Salt Scru Exfoliatin ch a Sp y ar 2. t 99 ea Sanctu nditioner poo and Co vive Sham El al 0 .5 ré L’O m t20 Block Crea F 40 Face Clinique SP t40 m ea Cr e n Ey n t35 Hydra Ze Foundatio Lancome Compact ng Cream Moisturizi n ow Br i Bobb t t33 ncealer Ki 26 Creamy Co der Pink t ks in Pow ee Ch r fo e 0 .5 22 Pot Roug t r Buff in Heathe p Colour Creamy Li 24 Mascara t Everything eam t9.95 r Hand Cr tte Bu ea Sh ne ita iser t4 cc L’O nt Moistur m Emollie ueous Crea Ovelle Aq le Nil t69 Jardin sur Hermès Un 6.48 Total: t32
up products but never to these. For practical reasons I keep my nails short but I love to have a French manicure with OPI products. Because I am constantly washing my hands between the children and work, my hands get dry so I never go anywhere without L’Occitane Hand Cream and smother my hands in Ovelle Aqueous Cream Emollient Moisturiser at night. I like to change my perfume from time to time: at the moment I am using Hermès Un Jardin sur le Nil. Róisín Linnane is at Khan, Blackrock, Co Dublin and Mullingar; Emporium Kalu, Naas; The Design Centre, Dublin 2; Samui, Cork; Les Jumelles, Galway; Diffusion, Dublin 3.
a particular skincare line) was explained clearly and succinctly – she is well-versed in the benefits of natural essences and oils. I enjoyed the soothing yoghurt face masque which restores the skin’s pH balance. Doyle was astute at locating problem areas – a small patch of irritation around my chin was detected immediately and explained: posture – slouching with my chin in my hands in front of the computer. Hands can be rife with bacteria and touching the face too often can exacerbate a flare-up. She advised resting my chin on the tip of my fingers (if I must!) instead of covering the chin and mouth area. THE
RESULT: Over the following days, I felt more energised, my skin
was brighter and the bothersome problem areas had begun to fade. Ultimately, an immensely enjoyable and informative facial and, as for
BEAUTY POSTSCRIPT ... A deskside visit from Stephanie, emissary of Trish McEvoy, was an epiphany. She showed us three things that we really rate: Lash Curling Mascara in Jet Black (€31.50), Lash Enhancing Nighttime Conditioning Treatment (€133.50) – currently restoring this writer’s lashes after a disastrous brush with falsies at Christmas – and the brilliant, ingenious Classic Make-up Planner, a neat, boxy Filofax-like case (from €52). McEvoy’s skincare range, Even Skin, is uncluttered. With her husband, who is one of New York’s pre-eminent dermatologists, she has devised a simple, effective line. “No overload,” as Stephanie says. “God knows we have enough of that going on in our lives.” Trish McEvoy is only at Harvey Nichols, Dundrum, where Eve Kelly is the new counter manager. Book in for a free make-up appointment and Eve will make up half your face, then gently force you to do the other half – a brilliant way to ensure you really have taken it all in. To book an appointment, call 01 291 0488.
the slouching, I have only myself to blame. SUZANNE LOWRY
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | March 2011 | 59
PHOTOG RAPH BY J OANNE MURPH Y
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T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | March 2011 | 61
Home
Shapely pieces like the oval ottoman counterbalance the strong lines of the custom-built L-shaped sofa. Moleskin, chenille, weaves and self-stripe fabrics add texture and definition to the neutral scheme. Rather than use antique gilt frames, mirrors made to fit were commissioned, then painted and antiqued.
The hall benefits from a complete panelling job, carefully proportioned to enhance the height. The chandelier is Waterford.
A
lthough based in the US, the owners of this Dublin townhouse return frequently to see family and friends. On a visit a couple of years ago, they decided to invest in a city centre period house they could call home on future trips. Used to living in big spaces, they were confident that with the help of an interior designer, they could adjust to the narrowly proportioned layout of this classic Victorian two-storey over basement. The brief: retain the interior’s period character while addressing the needs of a family used to smart-casual American-style family living. When the services of Helen Roden and Joe Ensko of Merrion Square Interiors were engaged, plans to extend the basement level to accommodate a kitchen/ living/dining area and redevelop a one-bed mews in the garden were already underway with the architect Daniel Coyle. “It was the ideal point to implement the plans already agreed with the client,” according to Helen Roden. “The architect tweaked the layout to dovetail with the interior plans – where to create storage, how the seating arrangements would work, the positioning of electrics, plumbing and other services.” The challenge to create a contemporary family living space downstairs and a more traditional arrangement upstairs which would work well for entertaining is familiar to Roden and Ensko. “So many families live in period houses in Ireland – the trick is to be able to combine day-to-day living with the classic layouts that to this day represent the best configuration for entertaining.” The outcome – a series of beautifully furnished interconnecting rooms at hall floor level, three comfortable bedrooms upstairs and a smart and practical living space at basement level – is a perfect example of an effective professional collaboration. Detailed mood boards and floor plans left nothing to chance – sample finishes were made up, fabric and flooring swatches and paint shades specified. “It helped that our clients were so decisive,” says Roden. “Having been through this process before with an 62 | March 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
home
Elements in the living/dining area include a glossy white table and leather dining chairs from Roche Bobois and a double-height storage unit designed for the space. A courtyard garden links the modern family space to the equally modern mews at the back.
Opposite, top: One of the interconnecting reception rooms on the hall level with chenille upholstered modular seating, ottoman by Collection Pierre and chandelier by Louise Kennedy for Tipperary Crystal. The painted wooden cabinet conceals a television. Opposite, bottom: The hall, the most improved space in the house, according to the designers, is painted in Colortrend 8221W, a neutral shade used on woodwork throughout the house. This page, clockwise from top: Elegant sliding doors in the family living space are identical to those of the mews across the courtyard; the dry bar with fridge below; in the family sitting room, curtains are ceiling-mounted and the shadow gap mirrored – both details enhance the illusion of height. The sofa and chairs are by Roche Bobois; cushions covered in fabrics by Boussac and Pierre Frey add bright accents to the white modular seating. Note: All joinery was commissioned from Irish suppliers by Merrion Square Interiors. Floors throughout the house are travertine by MLG and wide plank walnut by Ebony & Co. Merrion Square Interiors, 82 Merrion Square, Dublin 2, 01 676 1173; www.merrionsquareinteriors.com. The oblong opening with gas fire and white stone hearth are part of the concealed storage wall. The shadow gap at the top is mirrored and uplit.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | March 2011 | 63
HOME The guest bedroom has a French feel with freestanding armoires and pretty Pavillion Peacock Tree wallpaper by Colefax and Fowler. The gilded beds are Italian; the aqua bedcovers are from Laura Ashley.
A walnut bed in the master bedroom conceals a television in the base. The Jersey wallpaper is by Colefax and Fowler.
American interior designer, they knew how to make the relationship work for everyone’s benefit.” Like any relationship, it is important for the client to be able to relinquish some control and for the designer to be able to compromise. “The key is not to get bogged down and to make the process a pleasant one. There should be no nasty surprises,” says Ensko. “It’s crucial that the client enjoys the experience. We see our role as supportive while taking over the burden of the nuts and bolts.” Esentially problem-solvers, interior designers can often arrive at solutions faster and cheaper – where to find space for the three golf bags, 64 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
Top: The Italian-style mirror was designed to fit. Inset: The bedside lamps and tables are Italian. Left: Emroidered silk floral curtains are by Fadini Borghi. Above right: The bathroom is travertine with Duravit fittings; the window blind is fine white linen.
grand piano and a suite of luggage, how to fit wardrobes into impossibly small bedrooms, ways to work a utility room into an already spatially-compromised ground floor. Merrion Square Interiors charge an initial design fee which includes the proposed scheme, detailed budget and mood boards. Once the client decides to proceed, there is no further charge – all joinery, furniture and fabric includes the interior design charge, making it a very transparent process. “This house is the result of just two meetings,” says Roden. It just goes to show, success is all in the planning.
THe glOSS MAgAziNe invites you to
An evening of
‘Style with Substance’ in association with
BROWN THOMAS Join Anya Hindmarch , celebrated international fashion designer
Thursday 24th March from 7-9pm This is the first in a series of
‘Style with Substance ’ events, which will take place in The Restaurant at Level 3, Brown Thomas, Dublin.
Enjoy an informal Q&A with Anya, light supper and the chance to pose with her new SS11 handbag collection. The person with the most creative and inventive picture on the evening as chosen by Anya, will win the bag they pose with. The first 20 readers to email register@thegloss.ie will receive two tickets. If you have been successful, you will be notified by March 14th.
Where Classic Design Meets The Modern Home furniture • kitchens • lighting • pictures • mirrors • giftware globalvillage, powerscourt house, enniskerry and unit 10 kcr ind.est. kimmage, dublin 12 Tel: 01 4597454 www.globalvillage.ie
GIANA’S BAKED GUBBEEN
SAY FROMAGE From oozing Italian Taleggio and creamy French crottin to homegrown tangy blues and cheddars, there’s a cheese to suit every taste. Clodagh McKenna creates the perfect board
I
YOU WILL NEED: 1 baby Gubbeen cheese; 1 tbsp chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as thyme and rosemary; 2 cloves of garlic (crushed); freshly ground black pepper; a crusty loaf of bread. METHOD: Preheat the oven to 165ºC/325ºF/ gas mark 3. Cut the cheese in half horizontally to make 2 rounds. Sprinkle the herbs, garlic and black pepper on the bottom half of the cheese. Replace the top half and place the wheel on a large piece of tin foil. Wrap the foil around the cheese, forming a chimney hole on top with the excess foil. The chimney will let out the moisture while the cheese bakes. Place the cheese on a baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes, or until the cheese is soft and runny. Spread on slices of chunky bread while the cheese is still warm.
PH OTOGRAPH BY JOANN E M URP HY
f there is one thing I know I could never live without, it’s cheese … I was reminded of this last week, as I perched at the bar in my regular local Italian restaurant, OLIVETO in Dun Laoghaire, devouring one of their delicious pizzas. My favourite at the moment is the Taleggio – thin crisp My base, homemade tomato topping, blanketed with latest kitchen an oozing Taleggio cheese, straight from their gadget pash is my wood-burning oven. I used to cook a lot with new Microplane grater. It shaves Taleggio when I lived in Italy (it comes from parmesan into the lightest, fluffiest the north of the country, near Lombardy). angel hair, so that when you grate it on It is characteristically aromatic yet mild to pasta, the cheese melts instantly. You in flavour and features tangy, meaty notes can pick one up in Kitchen Complements with a fruity finish and pairs nicely with on Chatham Street in Italian Nebbiolo wines. Dublin, or Delia’s Kitchen A few days ago, I was teaching ‘The on French Church Perfect Dinner Party’ cookery class in my Street in Cork, for school at The Village at Lyons, and we made a around t28. recipe first given to me by Giana Ferguson, famed SHERIDANS CHEESEMONGERS cheese-maker of GUBBEEN FARMHOUSE in West run a wonderful cheese club Cork, and all-round food goddess. You split the cheese in half, which costs t35 per month. fill it with garlic, herbs and bake it (see recipe, top right) and then Each month, Sheridans select serve in the centre of the table with pieces of toasted bread to scoop four different cheeses that are out the melting cheese – utterly divine! at the peak of their ripeness When I’m in Cork, I always head to the English Market. ON THE and seasonality, and include PIGS BACK is an amazing stall that sells impeccably seasoned Irish and French farmhouse cheeses – the last time I was tasting notes on each one. The cheeses will be delivered there I picked up a French Crottin de Chavignol, a pur chèvre (made from only goats’ milk) produced in the area around on the second Wednesday of the Loire Valley village of Chavignol. It is a soft, crumbly cheese which can be eaten after ten days but is at its best at about each month; the price includes four weeks. It has a soft edible rind which starts off white but darkens as it ages. The flavour is slightly nutty. It is fantastic postage. Log on to www. grilled and served on a green salad with a chilled white Pouilly Fumé or a good Sauvignon Blanc. While you’re at the sheridanscheesemongers. English Market, pop around the corner to IAGO for the best selection of Italian cheeses in the south of the country. com; email Dan at dan@ Even though I’m devoted to French, Spanish and Italian cheeses, I love to create an Irish farmhouse cheeseboard sheridanscheesemongers.com if I’m having people over for dinner. Here are the stars of the last board that graced my table: Desmond, a hard or call 01 679 3143. cheese with a sharp resonant aftertaste; Durrus, a semi-soft rind-washed, fragrant, nutty cheese with real character; Cooleeney, similar to camembert with a distinct mushroomy aroma and a rich, semi-liquid interior; Ardrahan, a semi-soft farmhouse cheddar with an earthy flavour and pungent aroma; St Tola Log, a sweet, creamy goat’s cheese; and, finally, Crozier Blue, rich creamy blue sheep’s milk cheese.
GRUYÈRE AND ASPARAGUS TART INGREDIENTS (SERVES 6)
METHOD:
edge. Place in a pre-heated oven at
basil leaves on top.
300g asparagus spears
1. Start by making the pastry. Using
180°C/350°F/gas mark 4 for 15 minutes.
5. Bake the tart in the pre-heated oven
3 eggs, beaten
your fingertips, rub the butter and flour
3. While the pastry is baking, cook the
for 30 minutes or until the centre feels
100g gruyère cheese, grated
together, and add in enough cold water
asparagus by placing in a small pan of
firm and is golden brown.
250ml cream
to just bring the dough together. Wrap
simmering salted water for 3 minutes,
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
in cling film and place in a fridge to cool
before draining well.
8 fresh basil leaves
for half an hour.
4. Beat together the eggs and cheese
2. Once the pastry is chilled, roll it out
and season with sea salt and freshly
FOR THE PASTRY:
using a wooden rolling pin and line a
ground black pepper. Pour the egg
60g butter
7 1/ 2 inch flan tin. Press the dough firmly
and cheese mixture into the tart and
120g plain flour
down, trimming any excess from the
arrange the asparagus spears and fresh
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | March 2011 | 67
ENTERTAINING
F
rom the duplex penthouse apartment in Dublin’s city centre that Kieron Moore, of hotel and catering recruitment outfit The Firm, shares with his partner John Mahoney and their Kerry Blue puppy, Cosmo, the view of the Sugarloaf is stunning. On the night we drop by, the theme of dinner for nine started out as being ‘An Evening with Julia Child’ but has
morphed into something more free-form – although Julia’s boeuf bourguignon remains on the menu (albeit with a last-minute grating of frozen ginger to impart extra oomph). The starter is braised endive with Serrano ham (an Ottolenghi recipe) and pud is a Baked Cherry Frangipane from M&S. “People come to dinner to enjoy themselves and they don’t want me to be in the kitchen all night,” says Kieron. “I plan ahead and don’t get stressed.” That’s not to say that the menu isn’t sometimes more elaborate. “Sometimes I might decide to give it socks and produce something like ‘Tomato Five Ways’, an idea I stole from Alain Ducasse when I ate at his Bar et Boeuf restaurant in Monte Carlo.” Having worked front of house in the restaurant business for years (including a stint as general manager at London’s Le Caprice) before establishing The Firm, Kieron is unfazed by large numbers – dinner for up to 18 is commonplace. For big parties (as many as 90) he brings in caterer Claire Hanley.
412 Cab leather dining chair, Cassina, to order, at Minima.
champagne served in Louise Kennedy flutes or cocktails in the
Ennis Butchers, Rialto, Dublin 8. “They do their own dry-ageing. Fabulous meat.” French Paradox, Shelbourne Road, Dublin 4. Wine and chocolate ganache (if in a hurry!) Adonis Flowers, Patrick Street, Dublin 8: “Paul Berry is the best florist in town.”
Slaviati Venetian glass tumblers that they collect, dispensed from a 1950s drinks cabinet bought at Wild Child. Each glass is different so guests don’t get confused as the evening wears on. The table downstairs (it’s a couple of inches higher than normal to discourage Aurora champagne glass, t47.50, Louise Kennedy for Tipperary Crystal.
slumping) is by furniture-maker Stephen O’Briain in Kilkenny, the soft leather chairs by Cassina. Antique cutlery was picked up at a market in Nice and the linen was made to order. Nights tend to be late, and may involve dancing or an impromptu catwalk.
SPRING FORTH DON’T PLAY IT SAFE: REFRESH YOUR PALATE WITH A NEW WINE FOR SPRING, SAYS MARY DOWEY WHEN A FLOCK OF KIWI WINEMAKERS descended on Dublin
grapes embraced by adventurous New Zealand for a start. Other white candidates might
recently, the bottles lined up under the banner ‘Tables of the Unexpected’
include Semillon (full-flavoured and brilliantly ageworthy); crisp Gavi; zippy Vermentino;
created an immediate buzz. Here was New Zealand, a land drowning
or honeysuckle-toned Marsanne. Reds on the spring list could start with refreshing Cabernet
in Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, suddenly showing us that it
Franc (including Chinon and Bourgueil from the Loire); tangy Barbera; and smokily luscious
can also produce Arneis, Verdelho, Grüner Veltliner, Tempranillo,
Argentine Malbec (worth getting to know before the barbecue comes out).
Montepulciano … even Pinotage, for heaven’s sake. How refreshing! Cynics will say it’s high time New Zealand had a few new tricks up its sleeve for the
As for countries and regions to explore, the one I’ve been most impressed by recently is Portugal. This long-term wallflower of the Irish wine scene is suddenly looking confident.
day – imminent, surely – when the world tires of its grapefruity white set piece, while admiring but not being able to afford much of its Pinot Noir. But think of it the other way round. How many people do you know who almost always drink NZ Sauvignon Blanc? Or who almost always choose an Aussie Shiraz midweek and a Châteauneuf-du-Pape on a posh outing? Or who even drink the very same wine 90 per cent of the time? Comfort drinking has its place, of course, right next to comfort eating – staving off disappointment and offering cosy familiarity in its place. But does it really make sense to
DELICIOUSLY DIFFERENT TESCO FINEST KEN FORRESTER CHENIN BLANC, STELLENBOSCH 2010. How does South Africa manage to pack so much flavour into Chenin Blanc? This modestly priced version delivers a huge burst of apple, pear and honey flavours. Terrific with roast pork or a chicken stir-fry. From Tesco, d9.99.
play safe when you might discover something new and deliciously exciting for a change? In spite of recent contraction in the Irish wine trade, we’re lucky still to benefit from a mouthwatering breadth of choice, and this could be the perfect time of year to put it to the test. Spring-clean your shopping routine, I suggest. For every tried-and-tested bottle that you buy, choose one that seems different from anything you’ve ever had before. To be more specific, let’s assume the Old Reliables category covers not just Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah/Shiraz but the other mainstream single varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir. Also in there are predictably popular styles like Chablis, Sancerre, Rioja, Bordeaux, Chianti, Côtes du Rhône. Nothing wrong with any of them except over-exposure. What to choose instead? You could have a look at some of those
68 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
SEIFRIED ESTATE PINOT GRIS, NELSON 2010. New Zealand’s new white hope, Pinot Gris, can be plodding – but this is a refreshing, orange-andpear-toned beauty. A lovely aperitif, or match it with light Asian dishes or a pear salad. From Deveneys, Dundrum, Dublin 16; Martins, Fairview, Dublin 3; Cellars Big Wine Warehouse, Dublin 12; The Market, Belamine Plaza, Dublin 18; Parting Glass, Enniskerry, usually d16.99. QUINTA DE LA ROSA DOURO TINTO 2008. From a small, family-run estate in port territory, here comes proof of just how classy new-wave Portuguese can be. Enjoy with duck breasts or the best bit of beef you can manage. From Redmonds, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; www.jnwine.com, about d17.95.
PHOTOGRA P HS BY S I OBHA N BY RN E
An evening at John and Kieron’s starts upstairs with either ADDRESS BOOK:
Photo Michel Gibert.
Mah Jong Couture modular sofa Dressed by Jean Paul Gaultier Design Hans Hopfer
UNIT D1 Beacon South Quarter, Dublin 18. Tel: 01-653-1650 email: dublin@rochebobois.ie
Opening hours: 10.00 am – 6.00 pm, Monday – Saturday 12.00 am – 6.00 pm, Sunday.
Designed for you
INTELLIGENT DESIGN
NEAT SEAT
DESIGNER GARVAN DE BRUIR’S LATEST VENTURE
BREW UP
This Glossy
Take inspiration from Japan and turn your everyday cuppa into a proper ritual with this hand-thrown teapot, e65, by Sligo ceramicist Lynda Gault; www. lyndagaultceramics.ie.
Focus on Irish design
lifestyle
BRIGHT SPARK If you liked Poul Christiansen’s lampshades for Le Klint, you’ll love the self-assembly Palm lampshade by Irish design duo Kate Cronin and Elizabeth Fingleton of Klickity. Scooping one of the Best New Product awards at Showcase 2011, it attaches to any hanging ceiling light and comes in a variety of colours, from red to muted grey and – our favourite – white; t49.99, at Kilkenny; www. kilkennyshop.com.
MATCH MAKER Belfast-based art consultant Carrie Neely will help source or commission the perfect piece of art for your home (like ‘Hand’ by Neisha Allen, right), creating connections between artists and buyers and handling everything from sculpture to paintings; www. carrieneely.com.
Spoil yourself with Max Benjamin’s latest luxurious candle, White Pomegranate, a delicate mix of pomegranate, rosebud, lily and gardenia. t18, at Brown Thomas, House of Fraser, Kilkenny and Meadows & Byrne.
DESIGNER SHADES Applying new colours is the easiest way to freshen up your home, but a visit to the local paint shop can be overwhelming. Real help is at hand: Irish paint company Colortrend and Helen Turkington have teamed up to create a foolproof range of paints. “Developing and creating a paint range to add to my portfolio has been a very exciting project,” says Turkington, one of the country’s leading interior designers. “Thinking about the customer and what they want in their home has been the most important part in finalising the colour palette.” Inspired by nature, the range comprises 30 different shades (t34.95 for 2.5 litres), including Apple Grey, Irish Linen and Belgian Blue, and each colour complements Turkington’s extensive fabric range. www.helenturkington.ie.
Classicand andErased ErasedClassic Classic Classic Designer Rugs By Jan Kath Designer Rugs By Jan Kath Exclusively Available at: Exclusively Available at:
www.rugart.ie www.rugart.ie (01) 269 0505 (01) 269 0505 Find us on Facebook Find us on Facebook
Terminus Mills, Clonskeagh, Dublin 6. Terminus Mills, Clonskeagh, Dublin 6.
D
esigner and craftsman Garvan de Bruir trained in the UK and returned to Ireland in 2007, designing and building a showroom-cum-workshop in his native Kildare. “I snuck the buildings up behind the family house,” he laughs. “What I do is very craft-orientated, so the environment is important. An industrial unit wasn’t going to inspire creativity or confidence in visiting clients, so the studio is very much my own visual style.” Indeed, de Bruir’s vision is the unifying factor in a varied output that spans everything from bespoke furniture to sculptural commissions (visitors to last year’s Dublin Horse Show may remember the handsome jump he created for the event). The studio is a unique space that uses innovations in timber technology to create a curved, soaring space that feels cocoon-like at the same time, and he is currently working towards a completely prefabricated building system. For now, though, it’s his smart range of leather luggage that is gaining a cult following. “I made my own laptop bag a few years ago, and it was an organic thing after that. A few friends ordered it and it grew from there – the luggage now accounts for up to half of my business.” He has online sales from Texas to Australia, and says his customers fall into an identifiable category: “They tend to be guys, using laptops, e-readers, iPads. They’ve found me online so they like their technology.” In terms of materials, however, de Bruir still favours the traditional: “I feel that natural materials have a better ability to meet a brief than any synthetics, no matter how technically brilliant they are,” he says. “Leather, sheepskin, cotton, linen – in functional terms they’re brilliant. And they’ve become fashionable again.” www.debruir.com. CH
P HOTOGRA P H BY N EI L HURLEY
This sofa is made with a feather-light wire frame so it appears to float, creating a great sense of space in the smallest of rooms. Inspired by mid-century modern design, the Volare sofa by Dutch company Leolux is available at McNally, 46 Serpentine Avenue, Dublin 4, 01 660 4856; www.mcnallyliving.ie.
TRAVEL
MAN in A SUITCASE How time flies: with a significant birthday looming, TIM MAGEE muses on the changing face of air travel …
THE GETAWAY
Montreux
That year, we (fair enough, the Soviets) finally managed to successfully land a piece of machinery on Mars. That same year, while we – the Irish – tried to come to terms with decimalisation, the 747 had been ferrying people around the world in Jumbo comfort for twelve months already. Concorde was in its second year of trials, and while two elderly empires were testing a way of flying new money and old at 60,000 feet over the Atlantic on a bed of nouvelle cuisine and champagne quicker than today’s Dublin to Cork train, two new empires were competing to put people and things in space, on the moon and Mars. In the world of travel, anything seemed possible – The Jetsons seemed possible. And then they didn’t. The breakthroughs that were conceived in the 1960s and born in the 1970s were retired in the noughties, with no replacements. Nothing is faster now than then – in fact most things are slower. Forty years on, it feels like travel has actually regressed. Technology has changed our lives but the internet, mobile phones and Sky+ haven’t really come onboard yet. Forty years on and our planes, trains and automobiles still move at the same rate they did when I was born. Slower, and smaller: the stagnant travel times, the ever dwindling baggage allowances (soon the overhead lockers will be
LE MONTREUX PALACE hasn’t changed much either in the last 40 years. I’m a fan of this class of suburban European grand dame, these ladiesin-waiting that do their job so patiently, the ones with the framed visitors’ books (did Jackie O, Grace Kelly and Johnny Hallyday ever sleep in their own beds?). While there is a definite attraction of traipsing around cities like Lisbon and Geneva, it’s even better when, at the end of your urban schlep, you leg it back to the pristine royal playgrounds of Estoril and Montreux. Too often just a ski or business hub, Geneva is at a very cool crossroads in the middle of a European playground. One kilometre outside of that shining, spouting city by the lake is a bountiful rural French countryside that sees Switzerland’s good looks and cuisine and raises it twofold, and in this part of the world Milan is the local shopping mall, Lyon the food market. If the Orient Express was a place it would be Le Montreux Palace. Montreux is famous for its festival but forget all that jazz. I am not a fan of festivals: pamphlets and people don’t make for my kind of holiday. Try to be there on a Saturday when, after some ferry-watching and clocking some well-groomed, Swiss-timed, Agatha Christie characters steam their way across Lake Geneva at sunset, the centre of the lake lights up the Alps with a giddy fireworks display that you’ll always remember.
just for coats), the stripping masses, the onboard sales and the too-small seats. Has commerciality won the war with endeavour? Mind you, it’s worth remembering that Concorde only ever took less than a hundred people at a go and the fare could have actually bought you a house in Howth at one time. If nouvelle cuisine and champagne tastes odd at 38,000 feet, it must felt like eating a Vesta ready meal and drinking Shloer at 60,000, and it would’ve taken two hours to rid your hair of the reek of Benson & Hedges after each flight. Nagging newsagents for coins on arrival before you queued for a smelly payphone to boast about being compressed in a supersonic 1970s nightclub wouldn’t have been my scene either. I would have opted to spend that kind of money on the Plaza and Saks instead of shaving a couple of hours off a trip on a flying tube with 90-odd honeymooners and no choice of movies to drown out the coughing. Look at it another way: today, it takes 15 minutes to book a cheap flight on your phone for a puddle-jump to Heathrow. Kicking back in my exit seat on a pristine smoke-free plane with a Black Bush and the latest series of Mad Men – before it gets to RTÉ – is something that even the Jetsons would never have dreamed of. Travel has never seemed better.
A GREAT PLACE ...
to Eat
Alain Ducasse has more Michelin stars than any other chef. I’m not sure that’s a good thing. He is one of the great chefs and at his best when he’s doing things simply, like Aux Lyonnais in the second arrondissement. Other restaurants of his are gimmicky and too international, like the tourist money magnet LE JULES VERNE in the Eiffel Tower. It should be all wrong: too expensive, yawnish food – the best thing on the table are the cool place-mats cum plates – but, as usual, Paris wins overall. The room is beautifully lit, with carpets to lose yourself in – it’s the closest thing to travelling first class on a luxury liner a century ago – but the view, the view … you are looking at the best city on earth and for one night everyone is looking up at you. The best part, though, is the hourly light display – you’re the star in the middle of the world’s Christmas tree. It was good enough for the charming Obama ladies on their last trip to Paris and it’s one cheesy, touristy trap worth saving for.
72 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
CONCORD E PH OTOGRAPH BY GETTY; J ULES VERNE © MATT ALETTI
I
t’s whiskey for the next while. I’ve always liked it but recently it has replaced pints and any thoughts that I’m still a kid. Neat, quality whiskey seems more appropriate now, like wearing tailored clothes, and listening instead of talking. Despite my best efforts, I’m not usually obsessed with myself. I didn’t mind my 30th birthday, nor my 35th, but turning 40 this month does have me obsessing, looking backwards instead of forwards, about what has changed in the world since 1971, and what hasn’t.
FITNESS
FIELD WORK Why would any sane person choose to run around in the cold being shouted at? For the great fitness results bootcamps provide, says CAROLINE SCOTT ... classes in Limerick, Meath and Cork
motivation techniques. “We don’t yell and there’s nothing
and, starting soon, Galway.
military about our classes,” says Cathy Albanese, who
Anyone who’s ambled past a group of flushed, puffed people on a freezing cold night may wonder what on earth
People of all fitness levels, ability and age can train
possesses them. “I love being in the
together: you are mostly using your own body weight and
fresh air. It’s a bit of a laugh and it
going at your own pace. Most bootcamps are a mixture of
keeps you in a positive frame of
cardio and aerobic work, plus strengthening and toning,
mind,” says Tracy Kelly, who works
and sometimes involve incorporating elements of your
for Touchstone Communications,
environment, like benches.
and who does bootcamp training
Many devotees mention the social side of outdoor
with IRFU accredited coach and
training as one of the key motivators. For others, it’s
occupational psychologist Neil O’Brien,
safety in numbers: when there are 30 people doing squats
at Keepfit.ie. “I went to improve my aerobic fitness. I’d
and lunges in a park, you can rest assured that no one is
been skiing twice that year and found I was out of breath
looking at your bottom. However, the downside of all this
all the time. I’ve achieved that goal now.” The point that
is that you can get lost in the mix. “At Keepfit.ie they keep
you see people with beautiful bodies doing it on the
Kelly makes, about discovering that she wasn’t as fit as
an eye on you and it’s a personal approach. I tried another
beach, but in Ireland? It’s not quite the same is it?”
she thought, resonates with many of us – who hasn’t spent
bootcamp but they just didn’t focus on the strugglers like
sniggered a Californian, now living in Dublin. I had
lots of money on fitness classes or a gym membership
me!” says Tracy Kelly. “I felt disheartened when I joined a
to laugh, as there is an element of truth in what she
and then discovered they can barely walk up a hill? “This
bootcamp,” says Dublin doctor, Aisling Loy. “It was such
says. However, the lack of sunshine, real suntans and
is how to get properly fit,” believes PR executive Mary
a big group and I just felt lost. Also, I went with a friend
manically toned midriffs isn’t putting Irish women off.
Andrews, who trains with FitSquad. “You use every bit
who was trying to meet new people but I don’t think being
More and more of us are ditching the gym membership
of your body! After I ran the Dublin Marathon I stopped
covered in mud and doing press-ups in the lashing rain
in favour of getting hot and sweaty in a colder and more
training altogether and then struggled to get back into
was the way to go about it!”
public place, be it the park or on the beach. In fact, the
However, the ‘group’ thing is important for some, as
total lack of glamour is part of the appeal: like columnist
Kate Ryan who runs FitSquad explains: “Especially for
‘Connie’ and her SUV, the yummy mummy gym bunny, swanning around her swish gym in her perfect workout gear feels like a relic of the past. Bootcamp training is less about posturing, posing and bending, and more about getting down and dirty and giving someone 20. Pressups, that is. Military-style fitness bootcamps and outdoor exercise groups aren’t the big news – many have been operating for nearly ten years now – it’s the proliferation of them
The pressure and shouting associated with this style of fitness APPEALS AND REPELS in equal measure; for some it’s the only thing that will motivate them, while for others, it’s as offputting as the weather.
mental benefits and sense of camaraderie are important. Many of the classes being rolled out across the country are franchises, picked up by entrepreneurs who have retrained (Ryan, of FitSquad, used to work for First Active and Albanese, of FITT, has a background in the construction industry). Always check the credentials of the person whose class you are signing up to. “The councils have really clamped down on outdoor exercise
around the country, the growing demand for more classes
groups and have made sure that they are well run by
and, crucially, the choice and variety. Tried it once and hated it? It may well be that you chose the wrong one.
men. Not all guys belong to a rugby club, or whatever, but they still appreciate the importance of team spirit”. The
it. I felt reassured when I saw that there were plenty of
FITT Bootcamp, for example, is for women only and is
people older and less fit than me doing it too. They forced
run by a sunny Australian who overcame her own weight
me back to fitness – they really pile on the pressure!”
trained professionals,” says Ryan. Payment for most bootcamps is made in advance for eight weeks’ worth of classes. It works out at roughly
issues, while 95 per cent of Bootcamp Ireland instructors
The pressure and shouting associated with this style
the same price as a gym membership, or, in some cases,
come from military backgrounds. Some organisations
of fitness appeals and repels in equal measure; for some
actually more. However, since you work constantly during
continue training outside all year, while others move
it’s the only thing that will motivate them, while for
each session, as opposed to aerobic classes where you
indoors during the colder months. And if you think it’s
others, it’s just as offputting as the weather. Where you
often wait for the music to change or to move equipment
a niche trend for GI Jane types only, think again. “I’m
stand on this is one of the key determiners of which group
around. And who hasn’t spent an hour in the gym and felt
constantly surprised by the people who turn up,” says
you should sign up to. “Yes, you do get shouted at but it’s
like they’ve achieved nothing?
Lorraine Ho of Bootcamp Ireland. “We get everyone from
amusing at the same time,” says Andrews, who recalls an
FITT Ladies Bootcamp: www.fittpt.com; 085 102 7399.
big, burly rugby heads to older women who want to lose
instructor standing over her slightly fuzzy head screaming
Bootcamp Ireland: www.bootcampireland.com; 01 234 3797.
weight.” Ho started Bootcamp Ireland seven years ago. It
“How many glasses of Prosecco did you drink last night?”
Keepfit.ie: www.keepfit.ie; 087 666 7337.
now operates up to 55 classes a week in Dublin alone, plus
If you choose military-style fitness, expect military-style
FitSquad: www.fitsquad.ie, 087 791 4876.
74 | March 2011 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
PH OTOGRAPH BY GETTY
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understand that whole bootcamp thing in LA, where
runs the women-only FITT classes. “That said, we’re not sweet and lovely, and we won’t let you give up.”
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76 | March 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
Strap
This Glossy Life French Ambassador Emmanuelle d’Achon is unfazed by living in one of the most ogled houses in Ireland. To her, it’s just home for the next three years. We take a look inside PhotograPhs by Barry mc call
The T hGel o Gs l so sMsAM GA G Z IANZeI N| eSeptember | March 2009 2011 || 77 15
this glossy life
W
hen French Ambassador to Ireland Emmanuelle d’Achon takes a taxi to her house at 53 Ailesbury Road, the driver usually does a double take. ““Wow, is that yours?” they say. It’s impressive from the outside, but it manages to be both
grand and cosy at the same time. I felt that from the moment I walked in the door.” D’Achon, installed since September last, is conscious of her role being that of a privileged caretaker for a three-year period – “How lucky I am that I can go into a house and simply put my slippers under the bed” – and is adamant that no ambassador must ever put his or her personal stamp on an official residence. “There is a whole department in Paris dedicated to the decoration and maintenance of residences abroad,” says d’Achon. Decorative freewheeling on the part of the ambassador is frowned upon. “In one residence, an ambassador had installed some rather heavy Indonesian furniture,” she goes on. “You have to resist the temptation.” Her one concession, the silver-framed photographs of her three grown-up children, Constance, Edouard and Melanie, on the grand piano in the drawing room. Restraint may be the order of the day but the Dublin residence, the legation of France since 1930, is a pleasing, homely but unmistakably French collision of the old and the new – the massive drawing room the light-filled star of the ground floor, with its Beauvais tapestry and clashing collection of Louis XIV chairs and modern sofas. As spring sunshine floods the room, coffee is served from a silver tray at a glass-top table. The painted inlay is signed JC de Castelbajac – it’s a piece by fashion designer Jean-Charles Castelbajac, the contemporary fashion and furniture designer. So far, so French. In the dining room, under the Georgian-style coffered ceiling, a huge mahogany table seats 20, but a smaller round table in the bay window is set for four with Irish linen napkins and French porcelain, presided over by a portrait of Richard Brinsley Sheridan. The walls of a small library are lined with deep red fabric with a toile de Jouy print. A collection of Biscuit de Sèvres, the soft white porcelain figures and busts made in Paris in the 18th century, is the only significant collection in the house – the rest is a harmonious mix of several styles of art and objects. “The screen with the fish detail [opposite] is the oldest item in the house. Those, I suspect,” says d’Achon, referring to the egg-yolk yellow curtains in the drawing room, “were hung in the 1970s.” They may offend (although she wouldn’t say) but they will remain, until Paris decrees otherwise. Curtains are not, it is fair to say, uppermost in the mind of a woman like Emmanuelle d’Achon, who has a degree in French literature and is a graduate of two of France’s Grandes Écoles – the Institute of Political Sciences or ‘Sciences Po” and ENA – the École Nationale d’Aministration, both considered vital for advancement in the French civil service. “At university, I thought I would do something in film, having being seduced, like many French students, by the films of Truffaut,” she laughs, “but I went a different route.” At Sciences Po, a lecturer in International Relations, Renaud Vignal, became the catalyst for her interest in foreign affairs. “He was an expert in American foreign policy – I was fascinated.” Her interest in other countries has fuelled her professional life but as her interest in film and literature attests, cultural curiosity plays a big part in adapting to and enjoying the role. Just two years after entering the foreign service, she was posted to South Africa as Second Secretary. “When I was asked, I accepted with pleasure,” she smiles. “It was an adventure.” While in South Africa, she had her first child and took the opportunity afforded by her maternity leave to explore the country. “I would warm the baby food on the engine of our
78 | March 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
this glossy life station wagon. We had time to meet people and engage with them. I found having a baby an advantage: it broke the ice.” In South Africa, she was politicised, but still learning. “You can’t stay in your office. You must be able to analyse the political situation, to observe civil society, to get the pulse of a country. That’s what I do here. At that time in South Africa, for instance, the trade unions were incubating future leaders of the anti-apartheid movement. It was an exciting time.” As well as fulfilling her political function, d’Achon is determined to meet as many local representatives and groups as possible, in order to feed back to Paris as accurate a picture of Ireland as possible. When her term in South Africa was over, she entered ENA, the college for higher civil servants. “It was, simply, good for my career,” she explains. Posts in Washington, Mauritius, New York and Tanzania followed. D’Achon is aware that she was lucky that her husband Jean-Eudes, now Economic Counsellor at the French Ministry of Finance in Paris, took leave from his government job to share the African experience with her. “Having worked in Human Resources for three years, I know the challenge facing female diplomats is that their husbands are not always willing to travel. Even for male diplomats, it is difficult for a spouse to be enthusiastic if she thinks it unlikely she will find a job in the destination country. This is a big issue – we have to help spouses find positions.” D’Achon has inadvertently played a mentoring role with younger female diplomats. “I like building friendships with women, and helping if I can,” she says simply. “With the right support, a career in the foreign service is very achievable for a woman. I certainly felt no obstacles, nor did I experience discrimination.” She cites the example of Anne Anderson, former Irish ambassador to Paris, now Permanent Representative of Ireland to the United Nations in New York. “I wish more women were in posts like that.” Even when two other children followed the first, she never contemplated not working. “My mother always encouraged me and my sisters to work.” The children adapted well, attending French schools abroad, and have reaped the rewards of a cosmoplitan upbringing – all speak English and have a broad and tolerant view of the world. “They all came here for my birthday – there are plenty of lovely bedrooms upstairs.” Including the one in which President de Gaulle took a restorative nap while visiting in 1969. “He didn’t stay the night, but spent the rest of the week at Áras an Uactaráin with President de Valera. His portrait still hangs in the same bedroom.” President Sarkozy visited in 2008. When I ask if there are any plans for another visit, d’Achon slips into diplomatic mode, explaining how busy the President is with France’s presidency of this year’s G8 and G20 summits. (At the very moment we were speaking, it later transpired, Sarkozy and Brian Cowen had locked horns once again on Ireland’s corporation tax.) When pressed what she would do if Carla Bruni came to visit, she laughs. “I would dress very plainly, in black. No one could upstage her. She is a very beautiful woman.” Were it to happen, perhaps Paris might be prevailed upon to replace the 1970s curtains? “This house has a special quality,” says the diplomat, as we walk to the door. “Everyone who visits feels its charm.” SMcD
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | March 2011 | 79
over and out
N
ow that this election business
the right places to achieve this. And they want Connie
is firmly out of the way,
to go to Washington, as an example of the new Ireland.
Connie, like everybody else
She will exemplify the rehabilitated Tigress, who
in the country, is mulling
once out-roared them all, who was brought to the brink
over the highly predictable
of ruin and who has reinvented herself through hard
diversionary surprises created
work and extreme tenacity but, above all else, on her
as distractions from the real business of the chronic and
journey has gained HUMILITY. This Fine Gal has a
acute insolvency that is nationwide. Quite frankly, she
difficult job ahead! This is the new image for Ireland on
is tiring of all the political brouhaha and in fact would
its National Day: there is to be no more gobshitery, just
drop the whole business if it weren’t for the fact that she
traditional post-colonial self-abasement.
sees certain opportunities for herself in this new era.
Apparently some public servant is taking care of all
The vigorous canvassing of her SoCoDu lobby
the arrangements, however, with laborious influence
group SOUTH – Save Our Uniqueness Through
from certain quarters, expenses will be examined and
Handouts – did not go unnoticed, the new lot and even
there will be no waste – it’s economy flights and budget
of them. Connie has been asked to address the advisory committee on various affairs in Government Buildings and she is nail-bitingly nervous about her performance. Her preparations are perfect. She has spent an intense
hotels all the way. Connie wonders if she has the physical
A VIEW FROM THE JEEP
stamina for these hardships, but decides to offer it up for Ireland’s call – and the whispered promises of power and position, and some badly needed legal muscle for her own business FAMA (Fee Accrual Management Agency). With
Look out Capitol Hill – Connie is on a stealth mission to Washington. Honora Quinn is intrigued ...
and worrying time before finally deciding to let her baby Botox run down – this way she will be able to use her eyebrows to great effect in her speeches and other performances. Her pleas for the Yummy Mummy allowance
so many wimps defaulting on school fees, Cyril and Connie have been insanely busy and this government mission, while distracting, will have excellent long-term payback. Connie has virtually no time to pull together an alluring
are passionate. She can see the virtually all male (plus ça
Nonetheless during these munchings and crunchings the
yet ‘humble’ image for this trip – it’s definitely not the time to
change) panel is fascinated by the appearance of her fabulous
real purpose of her Dáil visitation comes to light.
sport her new SS11 threads. She will have to make do with
self. No doubt she has them all dreaming excitedly about the benefits of better grooming in their own manoirs.
The government intends to begin the mock serious
some ancient stuff from last year. While this saddens her,
business of defaulting on the national debt, and they are
she knows that it’s only an act and she is very excited if a
With no firm promises in the bag, Connie is invited to
desperate to get away with this inevitable action and at
little unsure about what to expect Stateside. Yet she draws
lunch at one of the new ‘in’ places, one of those blue hairshirt
the same time not become hated by the international
comfort from the deeply reassuring return from the politics
hangouts, where the whole menu is a ‘Recession Special’ and
community. They see St Patrick’s Day as critical in winning
of cronyism to the politics of cute hoorism. A realm in which
each dish comes with unpeeled potatoes and mung beans.
popularity around the world and need the right people in
she is very comfortable indeed.
IllustratI on by nata lIe C ass Idy
Dame Enda himself seem overwhelmingly enamoured
Born and raised in Essex, Helen Mirren joined the Royal Shakespeare Company at 20 and went on to become one of the world’s most respected stage and screen actresses, winning countless awards, including a Best Actress Oscar for The Queen. This month she stars in a new film of The Tempest, playing Prospera, a female version of Shakespeare’s sorcerer
She Does
She Doesn’t
Think that Kate Middleton will be a good addition to the
Mind taking her clothes off: Mirren has appeared nude
Royal Family – “I love where she comes from and who
more often than any mainstream actress of her generation
she is” l still enjoy working in theatre: “Every four
and posed naked on the cover of the Radio Times for
years or so, I go back to the stage and I show myself
her 50th birthday l worry about getting older. “It’s
and other people that I can still do that” l have a
brilliant, really, the way life organises itself, because
mixed ancestry. “My great great grandmother was
you just slowly get used to what you are” l care
a Russian countess and one side of my family was
that her husband isn’t a romantic, citing his “loyalty
Russian aristocracy; the other was English working-
and truthfulness and manliness in the proper sense.
class, so I’m a good contradiction” l believe in getting
I’d take those qualities over a romantic evening with a
lots of sleep. “When I’m working really hard, I don’t
bullshitter any time” l have any maternal instincts, in
party, I don’t go to the bar after work, I don’t go out to restaurants. I just go to bed” l split her time between
footballers’ legs” l hold back on Hollywood’s attitude to
her homes in London and LA l have a small tattoo on her
women: “I resent having witnessed the survival of some
left hand l enjoy being married: “I love it, and that took me
very mediocre male actors and the professional demise of
by surprise” l think women should have plastic surgery if
the very brilliant female ones” l understand her sex symbol
they want to (although she has not): “Even those ladies with those ridiculous lips. If they look at themselves in the mirror and go: ‘Wow! I look good!’ So what?”
80 | March 2011 | T h E G L o s s M A G A Z I N E
status: “I appreciate overt gorgeousness, sexiness – Marilyn This month: Helen Mirren
Monroe type of thing – and I know I’m not that, so I don’t see it and I don’t get it” l like to be called Dame.
ph otograph by wIreImag e
spite of having two stepchildren l like her legs: “I’ve got
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