Horse & rider 1 17 by glsense

DO THE RIGHT THING: MEDS VS. HORSEMANSHIP

WESTERN TRAINING HOW-TO ADVICE

JANUARY 2017

The

‘Fix It’ Issue Solve These Common Problems

• Trail Jigging • Rough Stops • Lead-Change Anticipation

Elusive ‘Feel’— You Can Have It!

‘Help— My Horse’s Tail Is Thinning!’

Bits That Pinch And Poke INSULIN RESISTANCE:

What To Know, What To Do

Half-Arabian mare Freedms Painted Lady

TableofContents

January 2017

On the Cover Thinning Tail Insulin Resistance Rough Stops Elusive ‘Feel’ Meds Vs. Management Bits That Pinch, Poke Trail Jigging Lead Changes

14 21 25 34 36 44 52 65

8 From the Editor: Let’s ﬁx it! 10 Your Stories: Price of a pony. 12 We Hear You: Comebacks. 14 Whole Horse Q&A: Thin tail.

Use good old-fashioned horsemanship to minimize the need for medication and to help keep your horse healthy. By Barb Crabbe, DVM

Discover what makes bits pinch, poke, or rub. Also learn how a bit works on your horse’s mouth for a happier ride. By Robin Gollehon, With Alana Harrison

Meds or Management? YOUR HORSE YOUR LIFE 17 We’d Love to Own: AQHA stallion Chics Smart Lena. 18 Talk: Amazing blanketing study. 19 Health: Cure that foot abscess. 20 Solutions: Quick, easy barn ﬁxes. 21 Horsekeeping: Insulin resistance. 22 Style: Bright, vibrant show pads.

Bits That Go Ouch!

PRACTICE PEN 25 Private Lesson: Casey Deary on using your feet in the stop. 28 Bob Avila’s Winning Insights: The way to school at shows. 31 Conformation Clinic: Performance Paint horse geldings. 34 The Confident Rider: Exercises to help you develop ‘feel.’

65 Problem Solvers: Correct your horse’s lead-change anticipation. 72 You Said It: ‘My horse’s problem and how I solved it.’

Save a Shoe

Reforming a Jigger

Let’s Talk Tape

Is your horse a perpetual shoe-puller? Here’s a handy, easy-to-apply solution that makes use of simple duct or pipe tape. By Dana Avila, With Jennifer Paulson

Does your horse jig out on the trail? Train him away from this irritating behavior with a takecharge approach. By Clinton Anderson, With J. Forsberg Meyer

Learn about a new alternative therapy that can relieve muscle soreness and promote relaxation for your equine partner. By Nichole Chirico

On the cover: Freedms Painted Lady is a 14-year-old Half-Arabian mare owned by Lori Ellison of Michigan. Trained by Joe and Michele Reser of Setting Sun Stables in Wakarusa, Indiana, pretty ‘Ellie’ has excelled in Western pleasure in the select rider division with her owner on board. Photo by Mallory Beinborn January 2017 HorseandRider.com 3

Volume LVI, Number 1 Editor Jennifer Paulson Senior Editor Jennifer Forsberg Meyer Assistant Editor Nichole Chirico Contributing Editor Barb Crabbe, DVM Alana Harrison Jennifer von Geldern Art Director Adam Purvis Contributing Photographer Mallory Beinborn

Horse Power.

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Natural Support for Recovery from Stress or Illness

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This Month @

HorseandRider.com Vice President/Group Publisher David Andrick dave.andrick@EquiNetwork.com Associate Group Publisher Mitch Miller (303) 644-3782 mmiller@aimmedia.com ADVERTISING Associate Publisher Rick Swan (480) 471-4671 rswan@aimmedia.com Advertising Representatives Christian Leatham (508) 461-9611 cleatham@aimmedia.com Michelle Adaway (859) 619-8263 madaway@aimmedia.com Kathy Dando (717) 303-3793 kdando@aimmedia.com Tom Brazil (805) 379-8729 tbrazil@aimmedia.com Susan Lee (540) 905-9111 slee@aimmedia.com Benjie Lemon (303) 625-1667 blemon@aimmedia.com

Changing Bits Do you know what ﬁve signs indicate if your horse hates his bit? Go online to read the answer. But before you switch bridles, read about what bits might pinch and poke on page 44.

Shelley L. Partridge (859) 327-7057 spartridge@aimmedia.com Keith Cunningham, Automotive/Truck Representative (248) 763-0526 kcunningham@aimmedia.com

Muzzle Do’s and Don’ts

Jigging Horse

A grazing muzzle can be a key component to managing the insulin-resistant horse (page 21). Go online for advice on using a grazing muzzle.

Does your horse jig on the trail? Read how Clinton Anderson ﬁxes a jigger on page 52, then go online to watch his method in action.

Classiﬁed Advertising Warren Wilson (760) 546-1192; fax (760) 546-1459 hr@aimclassiﬁeds.com Advertising Information Manager Judy Howard Advertising Coordinator Alicia Smith

The Kick Zone

No Rubbing!

Clinician Julie Goodnight demonstrates how to stay safe around your horse and stay out of his dangerous kick zone in a video.

Fix tail rubbing before your horse has no tail left by reading “Cure That Tail Rubbing” online after reading this month’s Whole Horse Q&A.

Digital Advertising Operations Manager Ron Goldy rgoldy@aimmedia.com

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Join the Herd!

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Your Stories

What Price for a Plain Pony? He was a homely little guy with kind eyes, a huge heart, and plenty of “kid miles” left in him.

After a few years observing how well CeCe took care of Richie, Sue changed her mind about the pony’s cost. “That was the best $800 I ever spent,” she told me. By Karen Pando Eventually the time came when an adolescent growth spurt meant Richie could no longer ride his beloved pony. So, for a short while, CeCe had a break from work. Then Sue found some t was warm and sunny that first day other young boys in the neighborhood of spring in 2014, with new growth sprouting everywhere. Spring signals interested in horses. CeCe went back into action, teaching a new batch of fresh beginnings, but for several of us kids how to ride. They’d put him on the in the rural neighborhood of Altoona, cross ties and groom him, taking extra Florida, it was a sad day. On that day, care with his thick, two-toned mane March 30, we buried CeCe. and tail. CeCe loved the attention. Fourteen years earlier, in 2000, my Then, after an hour of grooming, the friend Sue Rogers had needed a pony boys would go for short rides. for her then-4-year-old son. Sue liked Our trail-riding club has a perpetual attending horse auctions, and at one she trophy awarded to the best trail horse spotted a nondescript sorrel-and-white each year. In 2011, it was awarded to pony in a pen. Humble in appearance, none other than plain little CeCe. He the little gelding had an extremely kind truly deserved the designation, that eye. No one seemed to know much year and every year, actually. It was a about him—what he’d done in the past proud moment for Richie and everyone or even how old he was. who loved the pony.

‘Can’t Believe It!’ Sue had a feeling about him, though, and decided to take a chance. She started the bidding at $100. Other offers were slow in coming, and for a while she thought she might get a bargain. Then the bidding picked up. When it was done, the thought in her mind was, “I can’t believe I paid $800 for a grade pony!” CeCe had a new home and a new job. He and Sue’s son, Richie, bonded from the beginning. CeCe rode quietly in a hackamore and was a natural kid’s horse. He took his job seriously, and unlike those many cantankerous ponies we hear about, CeCe never offered to bite, kick, or buck. He actually seemed to try to keep Richie in the saddle. We’d be going down the trail and Richie would start inching off to one side, and CeCe would shift over a bit to get Richie centered again. 10 HorseandRider.com January 2017

That Look in His Eyes Eventually CeCe started showing signs of aging. He needed more feed to maintain his weight, and he was becoming arthritic. We asked our dental veterinarian about CeCe’s age, thinking by then he must be about 30. The vet laughed and said, “Nope, he’s on the other side of 30—more like 35-plus.” As the vet worked on CeCe’s teeth, I had to wonder about this little horse’s life. Specifically, how did such a wonderful pony even end up at an auction? Where had he been before that? What had he been doing for the first 25 years of his life? I looked into his deep, kind eyes, wishing he could answer me. His expression told me it didn’t matter. He was happy. Ultimately, the time came when

CeCe’s value was in his gentle disposition.

he began to lose interest in eating. Sometimes he’d lie down and couldn’t get back up. The look in his eye had become distant. Animals seem to have that way of telling us it’s time to go. It’s our human nature to want to deny it, to selfishly keep them with us. But Sue listened to CeCe and made that decision we all dread. With Richie by his side, CeCe was humanely put down on that warm spring day. The 40-year-old pony’s work was done. He now lies buried under the oak trees on Sue’s ranch, Emerald Acres, next to the resting places of his equine pals Ranger, Morning Glory, Apollo, and Mixer. Over the years, Sue had received many offers from admirers wanting to buy her plain little gelding. She’d declined every one. After all, you can’t put a price on pony like CeCe. Karen Pando lives in Altoona, Florida, with her husband, two dogs, and two Spotted Saddle Horses. Recently retired from 45 years in healthcare, Karen writes a weekly column titled “Horsin’ Around” for the local newspaper. Other activities she enjoys include trail riding, horse camping, and kayaking.

Have a poignant, humorous, or educational story to share? E-mail jfmeyer@ aimmedia.com; 675-word maximum.

Photo courtesy of Karen Pando

We Hear You S T O R E LETTER OF THE MONTH

SUCCEED IN WESTERN DRESSAGE

Comebacks: ‘I’m Not Alone’

Your Complete Guide to Western Dressage: 12 Lessons to Take You From the Basics to Your First Show Here’s everything you need to know about the newest horse sport, Western Dressage, a unique blend of classical dressage and the spirit of the Western horse. Top horsewoman Lynn Palm, offers step-bystep exercises to take you through your first Western Dressage test. Paperback, 88 pp., #ZP22, $24.95

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HorseandRider.com January 2017

When I pulled the November 2016 issue out of the mailbox, I saw “Riding Setback?” on the cover and felt it was written just for me. After many years of being a horse-show mom at 4-H fairs, AQHA shows, and high-school rodeos, I dreamed of learning to ride. About 18 months ago, I decided when I finished my master’s degree, I was going to reward myself with a horse. In the meantime, a friend gave me lessons on her horse to help me prepare for having my own. The weekend of April 23, 2016, I graduated with my degree; celebrated my 50th birthday; and found my dream horse, Dentley, at the University of Findlay Annual Horse Sale. I took weekly riding lessons and rode every chance I could. I loved it so much, I showed in walk-trot classes at a local show on June 26. On June 30, I’d been riding Dentley for about an hour, working on trail obstacles and having a great ride. A couple other riders went into the pasture next to the arena to race their horses. Dentley got a little excited, but I settled him down. A couple minutes later, he bolted. I tried slowing him down and did my best to stay on, but off I went. I ended up with a skull fracture, a concussion, five fractured vertebrae, and a rib fracture. During the past few months, I’ve had more than a few moments when I questioned if I should sell Dentley, but my husband and my kids wouldn’t hear of it. While recovering, I visited Dentley and did light groundwork with him when I could. I often worried I’d struggle with confidence issues and forget everything I’d learned. On October 5, with my doctor’s approval, I headed to the barn to ride for the first time since my accident. To my surprise, once I started walking him around, I felt like I’d been riding all along. I know I’ll encounter some mental and physical challenges as I get back into it, but H&R articles, like Bob Avila’s “Get Your Mojo Back,” are very helpful and remind me that I can do it and I’m not alone. Thank you for providing a great magazine every month! SUSAN STACKPOLE, Michigan E-mail your letters to HorseandRider@aimmedia.com. Or, send them to Horse&Rider, 5720 Flatiron Pkwy., Boulder, CO 80301. To be considered for publication, your submission must include your full name and your state. Published letters are subject to editing for brevity, clarity, and accuracy.

More Comeback Stories “Setbacks and Comebacks” (From the Editor, November 2016) really hit home. Your advice to your son about getting back on the horse is right on the mark, but little kids take special encouragement. It also helps nurture horsemanship if the horse belongs to the child so he can understand the

partnership that comes with taking care of his animal. And when one of your children gets dumped or has a runaway, all you can do is watch and pick up the pieces afterward. KARLA CHRISTENSEN, Montana

I got thrown from a lesson horse and broke my back. I decided that riding

Whole Horse Q&A

What Causes a Thin Mane and Tail? An owner is frustrated by her young Appaloosa show gelding’s persistent hair loss.

Our Appaloosa gelding had a beautiful mane and tail as a weanling. As a yearling, his mane and tail thinned. We showed him with a roached mane that season. His 2-yearold year, we tried a small tail extension, but by mid-season his tail had thinned to the point that we were barely able to braid in the extension. What can we do? M. SHOPE, Michigan

A horse with alopecia (hair loss) or abnormal hair growth should be examined by a veterinarian, as effective treatment requires determining the underlying cause. Alopecia in horses has various causes, many of them as-

sociated with pruritis (itching). Stressful events (systemic illness, high fever, surgery) can also cause hair follicles to halt in a specific growing phase, resulting in widespread alopecia or hair abnormalities and breakage. New hair growth begins one to three months after the event. Another cause of alopecia is follicular dysplasia. This condition causes hair-follicle abnormalities, including atypically formed hair shafts that easily break, or poor hair growth overall. One example of follicular dysplasia—and one that may be related to your gelding’s case—is mane and tail dystrophy, where hair loss is restricted to these regions and the hairs are dull, short, and brittle.

This syndrome (seen as early as at birth, or recognized in adulthood) is most commonly reported in Appaloosa and Curly horses. It’s believed to be related to an autoimmune disorder called alopecia areata. The cause of alopecia areata in horses is similar to that seen in other species, including humans, dogs, cats, cattle, mice, and poultry. Autoantibodies (the body’s own immune-system antibodies attacking self-proteins) are directed against antigens of growing hair follicles. The hair follicles go into their resting phase (see box), resulting in hair loss, then the follicles become abnormal. The disease has a suspected genetic or heritable predisposition and, as

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YourHorse YourLife WE’D LOVE TO OWN

Photo by Photo Jennifer byPaulson Mallory Beinborn

Chics Smart Lena Details: 2010 AQHA stallion by Smart Chic Olena and out of Hixie Chic, by Docs Hickory. Barn name: Smarty. Owned by: Wayne and Denise Naplin of Deer Park, Washington. Trained and shown by: Jason Gay of Caldwell, Idaho. Special start: Smarty was the Naplins’ first-ever show horse. “We weren’t looking for a show horse, but ended up getting Smarty from Babcock Ranch as a weanling,” Denise shares. After a year of hanging out in the pasture, the Naplins realized Smarty was talented enough to become a competitive show horse. Class clown: “Smarty is a real character. Everyone who handles him says he’s a clown,” Wayne shares. “When he was a baby, I’d go into the pasture and he’d come running at me, do a sliding stop, then hang his head on top of me. He was a really friendly colt.” Great trainers: “We wanted him started by the best, so we contacted Al Dunning to see if he had room for Smarty,” says Denise. “Al said he’d keep a spot for Smarty because of his breeding, and when he turned 2, we sent him to Al’s.” Since then, Smarty has been shown by several top Arizona trainers including Jade Keller, Shadd Parkinson, and Brad Barkemeyer. He then headed north where he’s currently ridden by Jason Gay. Sliding to a stop: While Smarty went on to be a finalist at the 2013 NRCHA Snaffle Bit Futurity, his sliding stop was a problem at first. He stops so well, he slid past the cow during his reined cow horse debut. Future plans: Smarty is just beginning his breeding career, but his show career might be winding down. The Naplins are deciding between retiring Smarty from competition or Wayne competing in the non-pro division with the horse. …Nichole Chirico

HorseandRider.com Go online to see a video of Jason and Smarty. January 2017 HorseandRider.com 17

YourHorse YourLife

TALK

Drifting Off the Wall 7%

Missed Leads at Lope 24%

Jigging on the Trail 38%

Head Tossing 31%

GALLOP POLL

Toughest Training Fix?

Her H&R Connection Pays Off The winner of Time to Ride’s “Pledge to Take a Friend Riding” sweepstakes, Caitlin Wadding, found out about the contest through Horse&Rider. The Parker, Colorado, horsewoman scored a three-night stay at a luxury dude ranch after fulﬁlling her pledge to take a friend riding, then being selected in a random-draw sweepstakes. Wadding, shown astride her 9-year-old Palomino mare, Brandi (Meradas Delight), says she’s keen on all things cow horse, including clinics and competitions. Learn more about Time to Ride’s winners and future promotions at timetoride.com/news.

Q: Where can I ﬁnd more tips from Brad Barkemeyer? I enjoyed his Private Lessons on cow work’s circling up and stop in last year’s April and August issues, respectively. A:

You’re in luck. Find several excellent training videos from this all-around horseman by searching #RideWithBrad at H&R’s Facebook page (Horse & Rider Magazine) or Web site (HorseandRider.com). The Scottsdale, Arizona, trainer “specializes in diversity,” with expertise in cow horse, cutting, roping, and more.

Don’t forget! Be sure to enter the Fallon Taylor Win-a-Day Contest, presented by H&R and sponsored by Dynamic Edge by Cactus. Visit HorseandRider.com/win-aday for details. And hurry—entries close January 12, 2017. 18 HorseandRider.com January 2017

‘Blanket, Please, Mom’ What if your horse could tell you whether he wants his blanket on or off? Fascinating research from Norway indicates horses actually can be taught to do this. They did it by pointing their muzzles to symbols on boards they’d previously been trained mean “put blanket on,” “take blanket off,” or “no change.” On one sunny day, 10 of 22 horses were already wearing blankets, and when asked to choose, all 10 chose the “blanket off” symbol. On a 45-degree day, 10 of the horses already wearing blankets selected “no change.” Not only that, but of the 12 not wearing blankets that day, 10 selected the “blanket on” option. Read more about this intriguing study at http://bit.ly/horsesusesymbols.

“Her H&R Connection Pays Off” photo by Emily Nicole Photography on Facebook; “Blanket, Please, Mom” photo by Jennifer Paulson

Friends go riding, and H&R helped it happen.

We asked which of four training problems is the most difﬁcult to overcome for riders working on their own. Above is a breakdown of the responses we received. For insights into the top two challenges, jigging and head tossing, see pages 50 and 44, respectively. (To participate in future polls, “like” us at our Facebook page.)

HE ALTH

Fix That Foot Abscess January is abscess season. If your horse develops a pocket of pus within his hoof (extremely painful), soak the foot in warm water with Epsom salts to encourage the abscess to open and drain on its own. Special soaking boots (like the one from EasyCare, above) can be handy for this, or you can simply use a rubber bucket or other safe container. Once the abscess is opened and healing, your horse may appreciate a cushioned boot, such as those designed by Soft-Ride for use on hard stable surfaces and comfort during transport, as well as for protection for a recovering hoof. (Learn more about “Horse Health by the Season” at HorseandRider.com.)

Q: What’s new for horses with equine metabolic syndrome? My Quarter Horse gelding has it and I worry about laminitis.

“Tips for Winter Warmth” H&R ﬁle photo

Metabolic syndrome in horses is a complex and often frustrating problem. In most cases, excessive body weight contributes to the condition and may be one of the initiating factors, helping lead to underlying inﬂammation on a cellular level. Recent research on equine metabolic patients in a “real world” setting indicates careful feeding plus supplementation may help horses maintain a healthy weight and reduce the inﬂammation that can lead to laminitis. (For details of this study, go to nouvelleresearch.com and scroll down to “Recent Research.” For more on equine metabolic syndrome and insulin resistance, see page 21.)

YourHorse YourLife

Your horse’s winter coat will protect him if he stays relatively dry; otherwise, he may need a blanket.

Tips for Winter Warmth Staying dry is a big part of staying warm. Your horse’s coat will shed some rain unless the precipitation lasts a long time or is driven by a strong wind. In severe weather, outdoor horses may beneﬁt from waterproof blankets—if they ﬁt properly and are checked often to make sure they don’t rub. Blanketing a wet horse prevents the coat from drying, however, so bring your horse into a stall and allow him to dry completely before putting a blanket on him. In a pinch, you can put a loosely fastened blanket on a wet horse, placing large handfuls of straw or hay at frequent intervals between the horse’s skin and the inside of the blanket so air can circulate to help the coat dry. This is a temporary solution, and the horse will need to have this blanket removed and a dry one put on before he’s either left in the stall or turned out. Source: Kentucky Equine Research

FAT IN THE DIET?

20%

Maximum amount of dietary fat that horses (who lack gall bladders) can digest. Introduce fat gradually, allowing up to three or four weeks for your horse to adjust. (Traditional horse rations contain just 3 to 4 percent fat.) Source: Rutgers Equine Science Center

Know the Zone Believe it or not, your horse can reach his hind leg forward almost all the way to his front leg. He can extend it fully to the side and back as well. So, cautions Certiﬁed Horsemanship Association clinician Julie Goodnight, whenever your ﬁnd yourself leaning under your horse to grab a cinch or examine his belly, be sure to face forward so your head isn’t in the “kick zone.” (See a short video illustrating the kick zone at HorseandRider.com.) January 2017 HorseandRider.com 19

YourHorse YourLife

SOLUTIONS Wireless Trailer Camera Do you like to keep an eye on your horse while you’re traveling? The Hyndsight Vision Journey camera system ($499; hyndsight vision.com) can help. Use this waterproof, portable camera system to safely monitor your horses when you’re headed to your next competition or trail ride. While it only comes with one camera, the monitor can be paired with up to three additional cameras, so you can monitor inside and outside your trailer at all times. The wireless batteries last up to eight hours, but there’s an optional hard-wiring kit you can add if that isn’t enough. You can even use this camera system inside your barn to keep an eye on your horse when he’s in his stall at night.

Quick Clean-Up Solution

Use the Equilume Light Mask to help your mare foal on time, or to keep her coat show-ready during winter.

Coat-Conditioning Light Mask Keep your mare’s coat show-ready during the winter months with help from the Equilume Light Mask. This mask provides a low-level blue light to a single eye, which helps lengthen the perceived daylight hours and stimulate seasonal hormones that help your horse feel the beneﬁts of summer. Traveling to horse shows? You can use this mask while you’re on the road, and it can also be worn on horses that live both indoors and outdoors. If you’re breeding your mare, it encourages her to cycle early and foal on time, and is powered to last the entire breeding season (5 months). More info: $400; equilume.com.

The problem: You need a quick clean-up when on a long trail ride or after a full day at the barn. Reach for: Your coatstain remover, like Cowboy Magic Greenspot Remover. How to use it: Spray it on your skin and wipe it off to quickly remove dirt, dust, and grime. The fresh scent will get you through until you can grab a shower. Bonus use: When your dog goes for a roll in a fresh manure pile, use the spot remover to quickly spot-clean his coat before letting him in the house or your truck. Learn more: Visit cowboymagic.com.

Easy Barn Fixes Use items you already have lying around for quick ﬁxes and barn needs. Bailing Twine Wrap a string of twine around your stall bar several times to create a strap to hang a feed bucket.

Zip Ties Loop zip ties around grooming products, like hoof picks or scissors, to hang on your groom cart or wall.

20 HorseandRider.com January 2017

Electrical Tape Tape the ends of your metal bucket hooks to help keep your horse’s tail from getting tangled in them.

Duct Tape If your horse has a small tear in his blanket, use duct tape to keep it together until you can get it ﬁxed.

HORSEKEEPING

YourHorse YourLife

Insulin-Resistance Q&A Here’s what you need to know about insulin resistance and related metabolic issues.

our horse is overweight and you’re worried about those metabolic issues you’ve been hearing about, especially insulin resistance. What should you know? Here, we share the latest from H&R’s consulting veterinarian, Dr. Barb Crabbe. She gives you the basics, plus tells you what to watch for and ask your vet about.

What is insulin resistance? Insulin is a hormone released by the pancreas to help regulate blood glucose (sugar). When your horse is insulinresistant, his tissues don’t respond adequately to circulating insulin when it’s released, causing his blood glucose to be uncontrolled. There are two types of insulin resistance—compensated and uncompensated. In compensated IR (the more common

Photo by Janis Tremper

Help in a Supplement? In combination with dietary restrictions, supplements designed for “easy keeper” horses with metabolic issues may help lower insulin levels and the inflammation that can lead to laminitis. Research conducted at the University of Kentucky’s Gluck Equine Research Center and funded by the American Quarter Horse Association, for example, determined that EMS horses given the resveratrol-containing nutraceutical Metabarol for 45 days experienced a statistically significant reduction in both insulin levels (25 to 30 percent, according to an oral sugar test) and chronic inflammation. Check with your veterinarian, and for details on the research, go to equithrive.com. …the Editors

one in horses) the pancreas responds to tissue resistance to insulin by producing more, even while the insulin already circulating isn’t being cleared by the body. This causes elevated insulin levels. Uncompensated insulin resistance occurs when the pancreas becomes exhausted, no longer producing enough insulin to control glucose. Comparable to type-2 diabetes in humans, it’s rare in horses.

Are IR and EMS the same? No. Insulin resistance is just one part of equine metabolic syndrome (or EMS), deﬁned as a horse with obesity, insulin resistance, and either laminitis or high laminitis risk. You could think of EMS in three steps: obesity (risk factor), insulin resistance (the pathophysiology), and laminitis (the potential result).

So obesity is the main risk factor for IR? Absolutely. It’s also true that ponies and some horse breeds—including Andalusians, Morgans, Paso Finos, and even some Quarter Horses—are at greater risk. Although PPID (pituitary pars intermedia dysfunction, formerly known as Cushing’s disease) and EMS are somewhat intertwined, it’s not completely clear whether PPID actually puts a horse at greater risk for insulin resistance.

How can I tell if my horse might have IR? If your horse is obese, especially with “regional adiposity” (fat deposits in certain areas; the hallmark is the cresty neck), he’s likely to be insulin-resistant—particularly if he has shown signs of laminitis. Your vet can test his blood for resting insulin levels. (Blood should be drawn in the morning before any grain meal, and with only low-carb hay available through the prior night.) An elevated resting insu-

Unlimited grazing can lead to obesity, the major risk factor for insulin resistance.

lin level is meaningful, but if the numbers are normal, it doesn’t necessarily rule out IR. A more recently developed oral sugar tolerance test is more accurate for making a diagnosis. (Your vet would measure your horse’s insulin, give him sugar, wait a while, then measure his insulin again.)

What can I do to help my insulin-resistant horse? Feed low-carb hay. Ideally, have your hay analyzed, with the goal of staying below 10-percent NSC—that is, non-structural carbohydrates, also known as starch and sugar. (For a list of testing facilities, go to foragetesting.org and click on certiﬁed labs.) If you can’t get hay that low in NSC, soaking your horse’s hay for 60 minutes in cold water can reduce its carb content by as much as 30 percent. Feed no grain, only low-starch concentrates if needed. If your horse lives out in pasture, a grazing muzzle works well to prevent overeating. Exercise is helpful on two levels: It aids with weight loss and maintenance, but also can also improve insulin sensitivity all by itself. There are also new products on the market designed to help moderate insulin levels; check with your veterinarian about these.

HorseandRider.com Do’s and don’ts for grazing muzzles. January 2017 HorseandRider.com 21

YourHorse YourLife

ST YLE WE LOVE: SCARVES Keep your face and neck warm at the barn with these stylish scarves.

Look for a show blanket that complements the rest of your show attire for a clean, professional look when you’re in the arena.

Noble Outﬁtters Style: Limitless head scarf. More info: $22.95; nobleoutﬁtters .com.

Colorful Show Pads

Showmanship Style Tip

Boys’ Style

The problem: Your boots bulge under your pants while you’re running or walking in your showmanship pattern. The solution: Overall presentation is an important part of showmanship. Before you pull your pants over your boots, use electric tape to tape around the top part of each boot, making the shaft smaller so you have a seamless line from the top of your pants to the bottom. Bonus: Your boot won’t move around as much while you’re running.

Jeans with cool cuts and edgy washes aren’t just for grownups. Ariat now offers boys’ jeans that’ll have your young rider looking good in the saddle. High-quality denim holds up to the rough-and-tumble boy life, and an adjustable waistband allows the denim to grow with your ever-changing son. Shown is the B5 Boundary, a slim-ﬁt cut, in the Cyclone wash. If your boy prefers a relaxed ﬁt, try the B4 styles. All are available at ariat.com for $59.95.

22 HorseandRider.com January 2017

Horze-Equestrian Style: Horze wool-mix scarf. More info: $25.95; horze.com.

SmartPak Style: Asmar eternity scarf. More info: $98; smartpak.com.

“Colorful Show Pads” photo by Jennifer Paulson; “Showmanship Style Tip” photo by Nichole Chirico

Bright, vibrant show blankets are a sure way to stand out in the show pen, no matter what events you compete in. Look for one that complements the rest of your show attire—and your horse’s coat color—to help create a clean, professional look when you’re in the arena. Use an oversized show blanket to ensure that once you put your saddle on you’ll still have enough room to pin on numbers. While there are plenty of affordable pads to choose from, like this one from Sundance Show Pads ($225; facebook.com/sundanceshowpads), you can also look into having your blanket custom-made to match your outﬁt. The pad shown is made of New Zealand wool and is handwoven.

Practice Pen PRIVATE LESSON

Stay Free in the Stop Use your feet the right way when stopping your horse.

By Casey Deary, With Jennifer Paulson Photos by Jennifer Paulson

any riders don’t realize the influence their feet have on their horse when stopping. Tight, bracey feet make for a stop with those qualities—and that’s not something you want when being judged in the reining pen or anywhere else that requires a stop. No one wants to get lawndarted, dashboarded, or slammed into the saddle when stopping. Here I’ll outline key body-position pointers, focusing on your feet, to get a free, loose stop that slides farther or at least keeps you from landing on your horse’s neck. Practice in a bit that your horse responds to, and ride with one or two hands, whichever helps you feel comfortable and get the best stop from your horse. →

January 2017 HorseandRider.com 25

Practice Pen PRIVATE LESSON

When I work on running and stopping a horse, my body position stays as close as possible to the same position and form throughout the stop. My weight is balanced evenly in my feet—I’m not pulling them back, which tips my body forward, nor pushing them forward to brace against my horse. Ideally, I sit in the middle of my saddle, with my body perpendicular to the ground and my feet slightly in front of me. My shoulders and hips are square, with my shoulders 26

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slightly behind my hips, which helps my horse stop straight, and I’m sitting in an athletic riding position. Anytime I change my position, my horse has to adjust everything from the length and pace of his stride to his alignment from his nose to his tail to get under the weight of my body and the saddle. By minimizing my adjustment throughout the rundown and stop, I make it more likely that my horse will be set up for success when I ask him to stop.

If I run my horse with my feet behind me, in my horse’s sides, it pitches my body forward over his front end. As he goes along, he must adjust his body position under my weight. With all of my weight pushed forward, he tips onto his forehand, which prevents him from stopping deeply in the ground—he can’t get on his hindquarters with that extra bulk on his forehand. Instead, he’ll hit hard with his front feet and dashboard me. (Or

backpack on my horse and putting him off balance. I force his hind feet to enter the ground right at that point, whether he’s ready to stop or not. I also push his back down, which is the opposite of what I want in a good stop; I want his back to be nice and round. Our timing is off, and he’ll have to regather himself to attempt to stop again on my cue.

maybe even send me flying forward out of the saddle, if he stops hard enough!)

I compare this position to sliding on the kitchen floor while wearing socks. I can run and get a good slide, but if someone is hiding behind the refrigerator and throws a backpack on me from behind, I’ll lose my balance. When I run to a stop and jam my feet forward, pushing my upper body backward, it’s as if I’m throwing that

I’m running to a stop with my body in a ready-to-stop position. I’m perpendicular to the ground, with my feet slightly in front of me. I’m neither bracing in my stirrups nor pushing my feet behind me. My shoulders and hips are square to help him stop squarely and straight. This way, my horse is set up to stop. I’m not setting him up to fail by putting all of my weight on his front end, and I won’t surprise him with a sudden position change when I say “whoa.” We’re on the same page the whole time, all the way to the stop.

This results in a soft, deep stop. You can see that my position hasn’t changed much from how it looked in Photo 1, when we were standing still. My chin and eyes are up, and my seat is deep in the saddle, allowing my horse to keep “accelerating” forward, even as he stops.

Ouch! By pushing my feet behind me, I’ve tilted my body forward, right onto the saddle horn when my horse stops. My discomfort aside, my horse has to try to keep his front end moving forward with extra weight on his forehand. He’s trying, but it’s not an easy task.

Bracing in my feet and pushing them forward to slam my horse into the ground results in a poorly timed stop. My horse’s hind end hits the ground when I slam my weight back, but then he has to regroup and continue on for a better-timed stop. My feet-bracedforward position also causes his back to hollow rather than round up during the stop. A simple change in the position of and weight in my feet could’ve helped this be a much better stop. Casey Deary, Weatherford, Texas, had his most recent big wins at the 2016 NRHA Derby and the 2015 NRHA Futurity. In 2015, he joined the NRHA’s Million Dollar Rider roster. Casey and his wife, Nicole, have four children. Learn more at dearyperformance.com. January 2017 HorseandRider.com 27

Practice Pen BOB AVILA’S WINNING INSIGHTS

School With Class

Schooling at horse shows has increased dramatically—and that’s ﬁne. But remember to respect the judge, the spectators, and your trainer’s program by keeping a professional appearance.

Schooling is one thing. Disrespecting the judge and the spectators is another. By Bob Avila, With Jennifer Paulson Photos by Marc Laxineta, DVM

ust about every horse in my barn needs to be schooled at a show at one time or another, and amateur riders practice and school their horses, too. I’m guessing you’re part of this schooling trend whether or not you ride with a trainer, because the number of schooling runs I see at shows has dramatically increased lately. When you hear a bunch of “zero” scores in a row, you can bet we’ve all been in the arena fixing something, letting a horse relax in the show pen, or working on a problem. And that’s fine. I’ve schooled horses at shows my entire career. But there must be an element of respect for the judge. Professionals, we must remember that potential new customers are watching us. Amateur riders also set a tone for their own show careers and their horses’ reputations. Whether spectators are newcomers to reining or are heavily involved, they base decisions about where to send their horses, take lessons, and bring their kids to ride based on what they see us do in the arena. Not to mention what horses they buy from whom. Here I’ll offer six things to keep in mind when schooling a horse at a show.

Tip #1: The Judge Is Watching Be mindful of overschooling, taking 28

HorseandRider.com January 2017

too much time, and going wildly off pattern. Your actions in the arena could leave a lasting bad taste in a judge’s mouth. Take no longer in the arena than you would running the designated pattern, and don’t make the judge’s already-long day stretch even farther. The judge will appreciate your respect of his time and letting him get on with his day.

Tip #2: So Are the Spectators “What’s going on? Why is everyone getting zeroes?” People new to reining don’t understand that schooling a

horse is necessary, so be mindful of the shows where you school your horses. For example, if you’re showing at a high-profile event or at an arena that draws public spectators, reconsider schooling your horse. The spectators came to watch reining and better understand the event—maybe even buy a reining horse and compete. Know that new riders could be in the stands watching how you ride and what you do in the arena. And don’t forget the online audience. Thanks to live streaming, many of the big shows are broadcast around the world for anyone and everyone to watch.

I’d never walk into the show pen in front of a judge dressed this way or with my horse turned out in this manner. My hoodie, the dirty pad, shabby leg boots, skid boots attached to my saddle, and—my pet peeve—my horse’s tail up in a sock. If someone saw me dressed this way on a webcast of a show, would they bring their horse to me for training?

Tip #3: Take the Zero Early If I intend to take a zero score, I walk into the arena and grab my reins with two hands. This immediately disqualifies my run and lets the judges know that they don’t have to mark my performance. Why make them go through the mental anguish of noting one penalty after another when my score won’t matter in the end?

Tip #4: Dress the Part This is part of the judges and spectators watching you. Have enough respect for them to take down your horse’s tail, brush out the shavings, and make him look presentable even if you’re not “in it to win it.” A work saddle and pad are fine, as long as they’re serviceable and clean. Same thing for protective legwear.

Our presentation is much better here. Chaps aren’t required, but if you’re at the show and have them anyway, you might as well put them on. My horse looks like a show horse, and I look like a focused rider. Both elements come together to show that, while I’m schooling, I’m not there to waste anyone’s time or give a negative impression of my event.

For the rider, chaps aren’t required, but do wear a hat and long-sleeve shirt. Leave the hoodie back at the stalls. You’re making an impression, just like your horse.

I’ll watch what they do so I can learn something from them. A horseman remembers to take advantage of learning opportunities when they present themselves, and it leaves a good impression.

Tip #5: Listen for the Whistle If you take too long, over-school, or get too aggressive, the judge can whistle you out of the arena at any time. If this happens, immediately stop what you’re doing, and exit the arena. You’ve probably already disrespected the judge in some manner, so at least leave the pen on a respectful note.

Tip #6: Leave a Positive Impression When I’m judging a show and a rider signals that he’s schooling, many times

A multiple AQHA world champion, Avila has also won three NRCHA Snafﬂe Bit Futurities, the NRHA Futurity, and two World’s Greatest Horseman titles. He received the AQHA Professional Horseman of the Year honor. His Avila Training Stables, Inc., is in Temecula, California. Learn more at bobavila.net.

January 2017 HorseandRider.com 29

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There are no known contraindications to the use of intramuscular Adequan® i.m. brand Polysulfated Glycosaminoglycan in horses. Studies have not been conducted to establish safety in breeding horses. WARNING: Do not use in horses intended for human consumption. Not for use in humans. Keep this and all medications out of the reach of children. CAUTION: Federal law restricts this drug to use by or on the order of a licensed veterinarian. Please see Full Prescribing Information at www.adequan.com. Adequan® and the Horse Head design are registered trademarks of Luitpold Pharmaceuticals, Inc. © Luitpold Animal Health, division of Luitpold Pharmaceuticals, Inc. 2016. AHD227 Iss. 4/2016

Practice Pen CONFORMATION CLINIC

Evaluate and place these performance Paint geldings. Then see how your choices compare to our expert judge’s.

Sandy Curl Curl started judging in 4-H. After her success as a youth at state- and national-level events, she was hired to judge local shows. She’s made a career of it, holding cards with AQHA, APHA, NSBA, PtHA, ApHC, and PHBA, among others. Curl has judged at national and international world shows, and other premier events. She and her sister own a boarding facility where she teaches multi-discipline riding lessons. Curl is a 4-H team coach; her husband is a farrier; and her daughter, Shannon, trains horses. Curl says she “has the perfect life.” She enjoys judging great horses, meeting new people, and traveling.

assess balance and quality first, but I also look at the flow of the entire picture. There are three essential characteristics: balance, smoothness and flow, and gender-/ breed-specific traits. Good balance means the length of a horse’s neck, back, and hip are all equal. The neck should tie into the shoulder high. The throatlatch should be clean and thin to allow the horse to flex easily at the poll. A well-sloped shoulder, with close to a 45-degree angle, can swing forward to maximize front-leg reach. Shoulder angle should match the pasterns’ angle to absorb concussion. Too-steep shoulders and pasterns allow less freedom of movement. A horse should have prominent withers for best saddle fit and rideability. A strong, short back is also a must. Lack of back strength will cause a horse to break down over time, and collection will be difficult. The hips are a horse’s driving force that bring his hocks far forward. The knee-to-hock alignment should be level. An unlevel horse is always going to travel downhill and will be heavier on the front end. Aesthetically, a horse should be pleasing. The head should be proportionate to the body. Muscling and gender characteristics are the least important, but nevertheless, a horse should have adequate muscling to move and carry itself well. →

For a more detailed guide that’ll help you master Conformation Clinic, see “Decoding Conformation Clinic” at HorseandRider.com.

C January 2017 HorseandRider.com 31

Practice Pen CONFORMATION CLINIC

First: Gelding B

his gelding exhibits balance, quality, and breed characteristics. When divided into thirds from nose to tail, each third is even. He’s equally balanced from top to bottom, with equal distance from withers to bottom of heartgirth as from heartgirth to the ground. His excellent topline has well-defined withers to hold a saddle in place, he’s strong through his loin, and he has a long hip. He has a deep heartgirth and

well-sloped shoulders for good stride length. His neck is long enough to balance his movement well and ties into his chest high. His tidy throatlatch will give good flexion. His head isn’t the most refined, but this is a minor concern in a gelding. He has adequate muscle volume and tone for a performance horse. From the side, he’s structurally correct—his legs fall under him where they should. His knees are right above his

cannon bones, and his front pasterns match the good slope of his shoulders. His hocks have a good angle, enabling him to drive from the hind end.

Second: Gelding A

his gelding is also well balanced from front to back and top to bottom, but doesn’t tie together quite as nicely as Gelding B. His topline is strong, but he has less-defined withers than Gelding B, and he’s a little bit steeper in his shoulders. He’s slightly higher at his hip than at his withers, but his knees and hocks look more level, which is a good sign. His neck is a little shorter and ties into

his chest a little lower than Gelding B’s. He’s also a little thicker in his throatlatch, which could affect flexion. He has a pretty head, with a flat face and strong jaw, the best breed characteristics of these three geldings. His knees are flat and clean, but his front pasterns are a bit steep, matching his shoulder angle. His hocks appear to not have much angle, also known as post-legged, which could affect his

ability to drive from behind. Though he could have more definition to his muscling, he has more volume of muscle than Gelding B.

flexion. He has a good, deep heartgirth, but he’s noticeably more muscled in his front end than his hind end. His heavy front end is partly a result of his hocks being set behind him instead of under him. Unable to drive with his hocks, his forehand is built up from pulling him forward instead of his hind end pushing him forward. His knees are clean and flat, and his shoulders are well sloped, as are his

pasterns. He has a lovely, soft expression in his face, but when compared to Geldings B and A, he lacks overall balance and structural correctness in his hocks.

Third: Mare A

Third: Gelding C

his gelding exhibits quality, an overall attractive look, and polished presentation. He doesn’t have enough length to his hip, though, to balance well with his substantial front end and longish back. When divided into thirds, his hind third comes up short. His topline is strong despite his long back, and he has adequate withers to hold a saddle in place. His neck is long, but is thick and ties into his chest low, which limits

To submit a photo of your horse to be evaluated in Conformation Clinic, send us a left-side proﬁle photo of your horse (for digital photos: high-resolution, 300 dpi, in at least 3" x 5") to HorseandRider@aimmedia.com with your contact info and your horse’s breed, age, gender, and height. (We welcome all breeds!) Visit HorseandRider.com for additional instructions.

HorseandRider.com January 2017

Practice Pen THE CONFIDENT RIDER

Yes—You Can Develop Feel These exercises will help you develop that near-magical ability known as feel. By Laurel Walker, With J. Forsberg Meyer

ave you ever run down to a sliding stop and pulled at the wrong time, catching your horse off stride and getting popped out of the saddle? Or been riding down the trail, missed your horse’s signals about the upcoming booger, and landed between his ears as he whirled to flee? What I’m talking about here is a lack of feel. Feel is the near-magical ability that all great riders possess—the capacity to feel what’s happening underneath them. When you have it, you know where your horse’s feet and his mind are at any given moment. Developing feel requires time—lots of it—in the saddle. You can speed the process, however, with the exercises I’ll give you here. With a helper, you’ll begin to develop a feel for where your horse’s feet are as he moves. Then you’ll apply this learning to ride your horse so that he takes the first step over a pole with the leg you intend. Why this matters. Good feel is the key for so much you do with your horse. In addition to knowing when to give a cue and how to read your horse’s mind, feel enables you to put your horse’s body in the correct position so he can do his job more easily. Plus it enables you to know immediately—without looking—when your horse has picked up the wrong lead. And so much more! It’s truly the holy grail of riding. Learn to feel. With your trainer or a friend watching, sit deep in the saddle with your weight in your heels. Look straight ahead as you ride forward at a walk, and try to “feel” your horse’s front legs. Say “right” each time the right leg advances, letting your helper correct you as need be until you can reliably feel the right leg coming forward. Allow periodic chat breaks, where you stop noticing your horse’s movement, then see if you can—without looking, of course—again feel when the right leg advances. Then do the same with the left leg, going back and forth as you work on feeling the difference. Apply that feel. As you get better at it, put your feel to the test. Lay a single pole on the ground, then ride toward it with the goal of getting your horse to step over with a certain foot first. If you’re riding in a slight arc to the left, as in the photo, try to get your horse to step over the pole first with his left leg. It takes feel and a lot of practice, but once you start to get it, you’ll know you’re on the right track. 34

HorseandRider.com January 2017

Have someone check as you try to tell, using only feel, when each of your horse’s legs is moving forward (top). Then practice riding over a pole, controlling which of your horse’s legs goes ﬁrst.

Keep going. When you’ve mastered these exercises, try them at the trot. As an alternative, sit your horse at a halt and try to influence which leg he steps off with into a walk. Then try identifying, by feel, all four of your horse’s legs at a walk, one at a time. At the lope, practice feeling which lead your horse is on before glancing down to check. The more you work on all these “tests,” the faster you’ll fine-tune your feel. Laurel Walker Denton, Skull Valley, Arizona, grew up on the Bar U Bar Ranch where she and her husband, Barry, reside. An AQHA and NRCHA judge, Denton has trained and shown horses in working cow horse, reining, and ranch riding (barubar.com). Photos by Barry Denton

#Youholdmyheart aqha.com/myheart

Meds or Management? YOUR HORSE IS WORKING HARD,

and your trainer has recommended you sign him up for next week’s hock injections. Of course, your barn buddies all agree—they all have their horses injected at least three times a year for maintenance. Reluctantly, you go along with the plan even though your horse seems sound and has been working well. If you want to win, you figure you’d better do what everybody else is doing. That’s just how things work in a big show barn, right? Not necessarily! In fact, “routine joint injections” and show-day medications might not be the healthiest choice for your sound, hard-working horse. A “magic pill” might sound appealing, especially if it could make your horse slide farther, turn a barrel faster, or take the edge off for a rail class. But rarely does it take the place of good old-fashioned horsemanship. In this article, I’ll share five common scenarios where medication-heavy plans are relied upon to maintain health. You’ll learn why a quick fix might not be the best answer and what alternatives you can consider to replace that “magic pill.” In the end, you’ll see that although medications have their place in keeping your horse sound, healthy, and performing well, proper management is your most important tool.

Use good old-fashioned horsemanship to minimize the need for medication and help keep your horse healthy.

Scenario #1: Flex and Inject The subject: Sam is a 12-year-old reining horse that campaigns hard with his owner in the youth division. He’s always been quite sound and healthy, and competes almost every weekend during spring and summer months.

The plan: Two weeks before competition season starts, Sam is scheduled to have his hocks, stifles, and coffin joints injected with steroids and hyaluronic acid. Sam’s trainer says it’s just like changing the oil in a truck—because Sam’s a little older, he needs to be lubed up By Barb Crabbe, DVM to remain sound. Sam also gets two grams of bute every night Illustration by June Brigman during competition. All of his medications are carefully planned out to avoid rule violations. →

HorseandRider.com January 2017

January 2017 HorseandRider.com 37

Why not?: There’s absolutely no justification for injecting “healthy” joints to help maintain soundness; in fact, this practice could actually be harmful. A normal, healthy joint is constantly replenishing its own joint fluid—a very different scenario than the oil in your truck. Every time a joint is injected, there’s risk of an acute inflammatory reaction called a “flare” that can take your horse out of action for weeks or longer, or of an infection that can be life-threatening. Repeated injections into joints can weaken bone over time, increasing the risk for catastrophic fractures. Non-steroidal antiinflammatory medications can also be hard on your horse’s system, especially when given frequently to a hard-working horse that lives a stressful lifestyle. Stomach ulcers are a risk as well as kidney failure.

There’s absolutely no justification for injecting “healthy” joints to help maintain soundness; in fact, this practice could actually be harmful.

The alternatives: When it comes to joint injections, consider hard if your horse really needs them. Instead of signing up for “maintenance” injections, schedule a soundness exam. Your vet will palpate your horse’s limbs, watch your horse move, perform stress tests on his joints, and possibly watch him work. If she identifies areas of concern, she’ll likely recommend additional diagnostics such as radiographs or ultrasound. With this information, she can recommend a management plan. Does that mean a joint should never be injected with medication? Absolutely not. For diagnosed conditions where joint inflammation is involved, a joint injection is probably the most effective treatment available and may be a necessary part of the solution. Injections might be recommended to help manage chronic arthritis in an older performance horse. They might also be used to treat an

HorseandRider.com January 2017

acute injury, often followed by a period of rest to allow for healing. When it comes to longevity in a performance horse, the worst thing you can do is inject a joint and continue work if your horse has an acute injury requiring rest. By opting out of “routine” injections, you’ll avoid this risk. You’ll also eliminate unnecessary risks associated with injections if you just say no to injecting a perfectly healthy joint. Use the same careful consideration with antiinflammatories. If your horse is stiff and sore all the time, find out what’s wrong and correct the problem. Evaluate his shoeing, pay close attention to footing, and consider adjusting your training schedule to allow for better conditioning and less intense work. If you’re on the road chasing points every weekend, consider a less rigorous competition schedule.

Scenario #2: Extra Energy The subject: Bubbles is a 10-year-old Quarter Horse mare that competes in Western pleasure at breed shows. She’s feisty, and often has too much energy in the show ring. While she does well when ridden by her trainer, she’s difficult for her novice owner to handle without lots of preparation. The plan: Bubbles is on a magnesium supplement, and on several occasions she’s been given intravenous magnesium prior to especially important events. She’s given a dose of dexamethasone every evening during horseshow weeks. In addition to her meds, she gets longed for 45 minutes every morning at the horse shows. Why not?: Her magnesium supplement won’t hurt, but intravenous magnesium certainly can. In fact, you’re risking Bubbles’ life with this calming strategy. Intravenous magnesium can impact your horse’s heart and lead to sudden death. Even oral magnesium violates the rules in many disciplines, where any supplement given with the “intent to calm” is forbidden. The same is true for dexamethasone. Although this corticosteroid is allowed in competition if used as a legitimate treatment for an allergy, when given with the intent to calm, it’s against the rules. Dexamethasone can have negative impacts on Bubbles’ health, including suppressing her immune system and causing laminitis. These health risks are further compounded when she’s stressed during travel and competition. Additionally, there’s absolutely no scientific data that

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substantiates a calming effect associated with dexamethasone. All risk, no benefit. Finally, the “longe into the ground” method of calming may avoid medications, but it certainly doesn’t fit into the category of “better management.” Horses that spend hours on the longe line every week are more at risk for orthopedic problems.

at bay. If it gets really bad, his owner increases him to daily dosing. Why not?: Dexamethasone is effective for treating a wide variety of problems, but it isn’t without risk. Its effect on Splash’s immune system puts him at risk for developing infections, and long-term use of this corticosteroid can lead to a life-threatening founder episode.

The alternatives: Bubbles’ extra energy is much better managed through training—both for her and her owner. If she does well with the trainer, it’s possible her owner’s lack of experience feeds her nervous energy. Sometimes this means asking tough questions: Is Bubbles really the right horse for her owner? Or would the mare be more successful in a different situation? Along the same lines, perhaps her energetic personality isn’t the right fit for a pleasure horse, and she’d be better suited to a different discipline. Those are tough things to think about but are the kind of horsemanship decisions that can make life better for both horse and rider. If Bubbles’ owner is committed to helping her horse be a successful Western pleasure mount, she might consider multiple long hand-walks every day in place of sedating medications and endless longeing. A 30-minute hand-walk around the show grounds three to four times a day can go a long way toward controlling nervous energy, plus allow Bubbles to better connect with her owner.

The alternatives: Don’t overlook management of the environment. In fact, careful environmental management could eliminate the need for medications at all. Splash’s owner should pay close attention to hay quality and consider watering Splash’s hay at feeding time, as well as choose bedding carefully to reduce dust. Studies show that dust in a barn is as much as 16 times higher when stalls are being cleaned, indicating turnout during cleaning time is an important management step. This will also minimize lung damage from ammonia that pervades the air at cleaning time. Improved barn ventilation with fans or by installing cupolas that allow dust and air to escape the barn can help, and Splash should be moved to a stall as close to the outside of the barn as possible. Finally, supplementation with an omega fatty acid can be quite effective for controlling allergies. While management may not completely eliminate the need for medication in a coughing horse, it can reduce it significantly and can make it easier to control symptoms with less risky medications than dexamethasone.

Studies show that dust in a barn is as much as 16 times higher when stalls are being cleaned.

Scenario #3: Allergy Sufferer The subject: Splash is a 15-year-old Paint gelding used for Western dressage. He always coughs a couple of times when he starts to work, and sometimes the cough persists throughout the ride. Splash’s owner doesn’t have a lot of time, and just wants a medication to keep the coughing under control. The plan: Splash gets a dose of dexamethasone every other day, which seems to keep his cough 40

HorseandRider.com January 2017

Scenario #4: Belly Ache The subject: Marley is a 5-year-old Arabian gelding in training for endurance. He and his rider recently successfully completed their first 25-mile ride. He gets a little colicky from time to time and had a full-blown colic episode two days after his last ride. The plan: Marley’s owner is sure he must have ulcers and has decided to start administering omeprazole. Her endurance buddies recommended omeprazole powder from a local compounding pharmacy, which will save money over using a brand name. Why not?: It’s true gastric ulcers are a common problem, but there are many other things that can cause colic symptoms. And although omeprazole is the most effective treatment if Marley does have ulcers, it’s destroyed by stomach acids and must be formulated in a buffered paste or enteric coated granule to be

Do You Know What Your Horse Is Getting? If you’re a hands-on horse owner, you probably know the details about all of your horse’s supplements and medications. But if you have your horse in a training program at a big show barn, chances are your trainer calls the shots. Have you ever wondered what is included in the “medications” charge on your monthly training bill? If so, ask. And if your trainer wants to schedule a vet visit, attend the appointment so you can see for yourself what’s going on. Ask questions and be involved in making the decisions when it comes to your horse’s care. You owe it to your horse.

effective. Plain, unprotected powder—as from a compounding pharmacy—doesn’t work. In this situation, Marley’s owner is administering a medication that won’t work even if this presumed diagnosis is correct. The alternatives: Gastric ulcers require an accurate diagnosis, which is easily done with a simple and relatively inexpensive diagnostic test called gastroscopy. It allows your veterinarian to look directly at your horse’s stomach lining. If ulcers are confirmed, treatment with a buffered form of omeprazole such as GastroGard is likely to be recommended. However, when it comes to ulcers, proper management is critical for long-term success. Even if your vet doesn’t see evidence of ulcers in your horse’s stomach, many of the following management strategies will help reduce risk of colic from other causes. To prevent ulcers and keep Marley’s belly comfortable, his owner should provide plenty of turnout time, ideally in the company of other horses. Feeding from a slow feeder or at frequent intervals of six hours or less is also beneficial, along with a minimal amount of grain, fed after hay. Studies have also shown that feeding a small amount of alfalfa hay can also help reduce ulcer risk.

Chronic bute use can contribute to problems including stomach ulcers and kidney failure.

Scenario #5: Oh, My Aching Back The subject: Toby is a 15-year-old Appendix Quarter Horse gelding used for trail riding. His owner rarely rides during the week, but 42

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loves to go on trail rides on the weekends and usually schedules several overnight camping trips each summer. Toby’s back gets sore after almost every ride. The plan: Toby’s owner gives him two grams of bute every day, starting the day before each ride and ending two days after. For multiple-day rides, he gets methocarbamol (a muscle relaxant) in his grain twice each day. Why not?: Although it’s an effective pain reliever, chronic bute use can contribute to problems including stomach ulcers and kidney failure. And although many people administer methocarbamol to their horses, there’s not much solid evidence supporting its effectiveness—especially when given orally. The alternatives: Back-pain management is especially important. Toby’s owner should start by examining saddle fit and taking a serious look at Toby’s fitness plan. It’s just not fair to let a horse stand around all week, and then work hard on a weekend trail ride. Toby needs a plan that includes more consistent exercise, with a focus on stretching and abdominalmuscle strengthening. Incorporating a set of carrot-stretches designed to help strengthen your horse’s core muscles can be really helpful when it comes to back pain. If Toby still gets sore, acupuncture or massage therapy could help keep him more comfortable and avoid the use of medications.

Is There a Time for Medication? Does all of this mean you should never medicate your horse? Of course not. In fact, joint injections and medications prescribed by your veterinarian for a problem that’s been diagnosed are crucial for maintaining your horse’s health. But it does mean you should turn away from medications for a quick fix— especially when a little good old-fashioned horsemanship is what your horse really needs.

Gain insight into three common problem bits with the potential to pinch, poke, or otherwise make your horse wince. Plus learn how your bit works on your horseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mouth for a happier ride.

By Robin Gollehon, With Alana Harrison

Bits That Go

Ouch! 44

HorseandRider.com January 2017

Photo by Alana Harrison

Do you have a thorough understanding of how your bit acts on your horse’s mouth? Here you’ll learn exactly how your bit and its conﬁguration work on your horse’s mouth in response to rein pressure.

January 2017 HorseandRider.com 45

DO YOU KNOW EXACTLY HOW YOUR HORSE’S BIT ACTS on his mouth in response to rein pressure? Many riders don’t. I’m always surprised by the many people I encounter at my clinics (and even at some of the big shows) who don’t have a thorough understanding of how a bit’s design and action work in response to pressure. Every horse’s mouth is shaped a little differently, and these slight variations play a role in how a bit acts on his chin, bars, and lips. A bit that works comfortably for one horse might be ineffective and downright painful to another—poking, pinching, or rubbing. This not only makes for an unhappy and potentially unhealthy horse, it also diminishes your ability to communicate with him through your rein cues—whether you’re in the show ring or the practice pen, or out on the trail. To help you make the right selection for your horse, I’ll explain how certain bit conﬁgurations can negatively act on his mouth. I’ll describe the three most common “problem bits” people tend to misunderstand. For each, I’ll explain how the bit’s action could cause your horse discomfort and the potential problems it might create in your training. Plus, I’ll offer a few solutions for giving your horse a happier mouth.

Problem #1: The Strap That Binds The culprit: In a shank bit, this problem arises from the way the chin strap attaches to the bit and causes the mouthpiece and the strap to interact. When rein pressure is applied, certain configurations cause the chin strap to pinch the corners of a horse’s mouth, between the strap and the mouthpiece. Depending on its placement, the chin strap’s buckle can cause even further pinching in this area. If consistently used in conjunction with harsh hands, this bit setup could cause sores or even tearing at the corners of your horse’s mouth. Horse’s reaction: Head tossing. If you use this type of bit/chin-strap combination and notice that when you apply rein pressure your horse throws his head up, pinching is likely the cause. Over time, your horse’s discomfort will prevent you from effectively communicating with him, because he’ll constantly try to evade the bit to escape the pain. Riders often attribute head tossing to bad behavior and exacerbate the problem with harsher rein pressure or using a tie-down. 46

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Considerations: This problem isn’t always predictable—meaning, you won’t be able to recognize this type of bit/chin-strap combination just by glancing at the bridle as it hangs in the tack store. Make an initial pressure test by holding the bit with your hand around the mouthpiece as you apply pressure to the shanks. If the chin strap closes in on the mouthpiece more than what seems right relative to the amount of pressure you applied to the shanks, this bit could be problematic. But you might not be able to tell if this bit will actually pinch your horse’s lips until you try it out on him. Solutions: If you already use this bit on your horse, try tightening the chin strap a bit so the mouthpiece doesn’t hang quite as low in his mouth. With a snugger fit, the strap won’t hang as close to the mouthpiece as it does when exceedingly loose, and on some horses it’ll raise the shanks up and away from the corners of his mouth enough to eliminate any pinching. Or, if the bit has a short purchase (the part of the bit that extends up from the mouthpiece to where it attaches to the bridle’s leather cheek piece), try using a bit with

a longer purchase. If the purchase is too short for the length of your horse’s mouth, it could cause the chin strap to be positioned too close to the mouthpiece, resulting in pinching. Another option is to try a bit that has built-in “slots” (drop-back curb loops) that position the chin strap farther back and away from the mouthpiece and corners of a horse’s mouth.

Problem #2: Loose Joints The culprit: If you use a swivelshank bit or any type of bit with a jointed mouthpiece, and the hinges on the sides of the mouthpiece where it connects to the shanks or the joint on mouthpiece are too loose, the corners of your horse’s mouth can get caught and pinched. Hinges and joints with too much play are typically found in inexpensive, lowquality bits. High-quality bits tend to be made with smoother and more tightly connected hinges. Horse’s reaction: The pinching caused by loose hinges at the sides of the mouthpiece is similar to the pinching created between the chin strap and the mouthpiece in Problem #1. If there’s

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NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. A PURCHASE DOES NOT IMPROVE YOUR CHANCES OF WINNING. Sweepstakes will be open to those ages 18 and older as of 12/1/16 and residents of 50 USA and D.C. To enter, fill out the form on http://horseandrider.com/win-a-day. One entry per person. All entries must be received by 1/12/17. Ten finalists will be selected to send videos of themselves and their horses. Winner will be selected from the videos on or about 3/7/17. Odds of winning depend on the total number of entries received. There is 1 grand-prize winner, approximate total ARV: $2,500. All taxes on prize are the sole responsibility of the winner. Winner will be notified by email or phone on or about 3/8/17. All federal, state, and local laws and regulations apply. Sponsor: Active Interest Media, LLC. Void where prohibited by law. All entrants are bound by the Full Rules. Go to http://horseandrider.com/win-a-day to enter and see Official Rules.

too much play in the joint on the mouthpiece, a horse’s tongue could also get pinched. In an effort to avoid the discomfort caused by this pinching action, head-tossing is again his response. Can you blame him? Considerations: Don’t settle for low-quality bits. Having just a few well-made bits in your tack room is better than a wall covered with cheap, unusable bits. Solutions: Toss the bit. If your horse generally does well in this type of bit, invest in one with a similar design but of better construction. A basic but well-made, loose-ring snaffle, for example, would be a better option, because the rings go through sleeves that attach to the mouthpiece. These sleeves protect the corners of a horse’s mouth from any excess play in the hinges, eliminating potential pinching. You could also attach rubber bit guards to the mouthpiece where it connects to the shanks. These guards protect a horse’s cheeks and lips from any interference or pinching caused by loose joints. Keep in mind, however, that you can’t use rubber guards in the show ring. If you mostly trail ride or compete in speed events like barrel racing or pole bending, this might be a viable solution.

When you apply rein pressure to some bit conﬁgurations, a too-loose chin strap pinches the corners of a horse’s mouth at the mouthpiece. This pinching action can cause a horse discomfort that leads him to gape his mouth and/or toss his head.

Problem #3: A Jabbing Combination The culprit: A lot of riders use a broken-mouthpiece shanked bit when transitioning a horse from a basic snaffle to a curb bit. (Two examples of this design are a Tom Thumb bit and an Argentine snaffle.) In my opinion, however, if you’re using this as a transitional bit, your horse is still in training. That means you’re likely still riding him with two hands and using directrein pressure to ask him to pull his head around to the right or left. Even if you consider your horse finished, but you occasionally use a direct rein to bend his head around in the practice pen or on the trail, this bit is going to create problems. Let’s say, for example, you use a direct right rein to ask your horse to come around to the right. When you 48

HorseandRider.com January 2017

A tighter chin strap keeps the mouthpiece from hanging low in your horse’s mouth and can eliminate any pinching, as well as gaping and head tossing. Photos by Robin Gollehon

Be Bit-Savvy • Even if your horse isn’t showing any signs of discomfort, always carefully con-

When you apply direct-rein pressure in a broken-mouthpiece, shanked bit (such as a Tom Thumb or Argentine snafﬂe bit), the metal part of the shank that attaches to the bridle jabs your horse’s cheek. This will cause discomfort and diminish your ability to communicate through your rein cues because, as you ask him to bend, you’ll simultaneously tell him to move the opposite direction, away from the bit’s poke.

pull your right rein out from your hip to the right, the metal part of the shank that attaches the bit to the bridle is going to jab your horse’s right cheek due to the combined action of this bit’s shanks and broken mouthpiece. Horse’s reaction: Every time you use a direct rein with this bit, you’ll simultaneously stab your horse’s cheek on the same side. While you’re telling him to bend his head in one direction, you’re also saying, “move away from this poke” in the opposite direction. Anticipating that he’s about to be stabbed in the cheek, your horse might begin turning his head at the mere feel of your the rein. Or he might start tossing his head the moment you mount in an effort to evade any bit pressure, or even plant his legs and refuse to move forward or backward. Consistently giving your horse these mixed messages could create any number of behavior problems, resulting in a downward spiral of miscommunication. And over time, this poking action Top photo by Robin Gollehon; bio photo by Roger Gollehon

sider how your bit-and-bridle configuration acts on his mouth to make sure it’s comfortable and not pinching. • Familiarize yourself with the common behaviors associated with bit discomfort, and pay careful attention to your horse’s actions and demeanor on an ongoing basis, noting anything new or unusual. • If your horse shows signs of bit discomfort (such as tossing his head, refusing to open his mouth for bridling, or chomping or grinding on the bit), thoroughly examine his mouth. If you discover any signs of irritation or injury on his lips, corners, bars, palate, or chin, schedule an exam with your vet before you ride him again. • If your horse has recently lost weight, is dropping feed, or has a poor appetite, especially after you’ve ridden him, schedule an appointment with your vet or an equine dental technician. The bit could be exacerbating an underlying dental problem. • Be aware that head tossing and bit chomping can also be signs of pain or sensitivity in another part of your horse’s body, or of poor saddle fit. Then, too, bit chomping is sometimes a reaction to boredom—especially in young horses. When in doubt about the cause of chomping, check with your vet. • If you’re uncertain about how a particular bit should fit or act on your horse’s mouth, or you’re unsure about what type of bit would be best for your horse, seek help from a professional. • Any bit can be problematic in the wrong hands. Always be soft and slow with your hands and rein cues—never jerk or torque your reins. • Retire worn or damaged bits; even expensive, high-quality bits can endure wear and tear over time and develop sharp edges, chips, or grooves that could cause irritation to your horse’s mouth.

could cause sores, hair loss, and scarring on your horse’s cheeks. Considerations: If you don’t have a fundamental understanding of how different bit designs act on your horse’s mouth, go back to the basics and seek help from a trainer or bit professional. You must have a thorough understanding how a snaffle bit works in comparison to a shank bit. A broken mouthpiece doesn’t automatically make a bit a snaffle; a true snaffle doesn’t have any leverage because it doesn’t have shanks. If you apply two pounds of pressure to your reins while using an authentic snaffle bit, your horse is going to feel two pounds of pressure, period. If you apply that same two pounds to a shank bit, your horse is going to feel quite a bit more pressure due to the leverage created by the shanks. Solutions: You might be able to get by with this bit—if you never intend to

ask your horse to bend his head to the left or right! Obviously, I recommend changing bits, as this design will inevitably create problems. Riders often use it because they mistakenly believe it’s a mild, transitional bit due to its broken mouthpiece. Or, unfortunately, the bit and bridle were part of the package when they bought the horse. Robin Gollehon trains horses and coaches riders, specializing in Western pleasure and yearling longe line. She and her husband, Roger, own and operate Gollehon Quarter Horses in Versailles, Kentucky (gollehon.com). Robin thanks her models, Apryl Kapfhammer and Born To Be Amazing.

HorseandRider.com Read “Does He Hate His Bit?” for more insight on bits and ﬁnding the right one for your horse. January 2017 HorseandRider.com 49

Save a Shoe Have a perpetual shoe-puller? Here’s a solution. By Dana Avila, With Jennifer Paulson

n athletic horse can overreach with his hind foot, clipping the front foot. This can lead to pulled shoes, which are inconvenient but preventable with this taping method. Before you use this taping technique in competition, be sure to check the rules for the organization you’re showing under. Using tape in this manner is legal in National Reining Horse Association and American Quarter Horse Association competition. Before you start, clean your horse’s feet to remove any debris from the outside of your horse’s front feet that might interfere with the tape. You can use duct tape for the base, but I prefer pipe tape. It doesn’t fray like duct tape and sticks better. Electrical tape placed on top of the pipe tape gives a ﬁnished look.

HorseandRider.com January 2017

Photo by Marc Laxinetz, DVM

STEP 1: GIVE A SPIN Pull about a foot of pipe tape off the roll, hold the top two inches of tape flat, and spin the roll. This gives the tape the body it needs to fill the space in between the heels of the shoe, where a hind foot can grab a front shoe. The flat portion of tape is ready to tape to the foot, and the tape’s adhesive will hold the tape in the spin.

STEP 2: LAY THE TAPE About a third of the way forward from the heel of the shoe, lay the flat piece of tape on the hoof. Align the twisted tape to lie in between the heels of the shoe. Keep it as flat as possible. This starts the foundation to fill the space and prevents the shoe from pulling off the horse’s foot.

STEP 3: DOUBLE-BACK Double the tape back toward the starting side, aligning it between the shoe’s heels. Try to keep the tape smooth and ﬂat, but don’t worry about how it looks. It’ll smooth over later in the process. When you reach the shoe’s heel on the starting side, double it back again in the opposite direction.

STEP 4: WRAP AROUND Run the pipe tape around the entire hoof two to three times. Be sure to keep the tape smooth and ﬂat—this will help smooth any bumps in the tape between the shoe’s heels. Cut the pipe tape, and stick it down to the hoof to complete this layer.

STEP 5: GRAB THE ELECTRICAL TAPE Begin applying the electrical tape at the coronary band, between the heel bulbs. Make an effort to keep this tape smooth, ﬂat, and even. It’s the top layer, so a messy application will end in an unprofessional look on your horse’s feet. Run it all the way down to your horse’s shoe.

STEP 6: FINISHED FOOT The ﬁnal layer of electrical tape covers the text on the pipe tape and gives a ﬁnished look, almost like the horse has hoof black on his feet. You can leave this foot as is and go compete, or cover it with a bell boot. Either way, your horse is less likely to pull a front shoe if his feet interfere.

Photos by Jennifer Paulson

January 2017 HorseandRider.com 51

A nice, ďŹ&#x201A; at-footed walk on a loose rein is what you want from your horse out on the trail. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll show you how to cure pesky jigging.

HorseandRider.com January 2017

R EFORMING A

g i j By Clint And on erso n,

Does your horse jig out on the trail? Train him away from this behavior with a take-charge approach.

With J. Forsberg Meyer

Photos by Alana Harrison

January 2017 HorseandRider.com 53

igging—that irritating half-prance horses fall into when they want to go faster and you won’t let them—can ruin an otherwise pleasurable trail ride. I’m going to show you what to do to condition your horse away from this exasperating behavior. You’ll learn to use one rein to get your horse’s feet moving and activate the thinking side of his brain. This puts his excess energy to good use convincing him that attempting to jig just isn’t worth all the effort that results. He’s then able to relax into a flat-footed walk, instead of focusing on whatever’s making him want to jig. An added benefit of this approach is that it helps you feel safer and more in charge. OK, let’s get to it.

What Causes Jigging? Many factors can prompt your horse to jig. We’ll assume he’s broke enough to be out on the trail in the first place; if not, then that’s your primary factor. Simply being too fresh and full of pent-up energy can also cause jigging. It means you did a poor job of preparing your horse for the trail ride—you should’ve taken the edge off his energy beforehand with vigorous groundwork exercises. Nervousness is another possible cause. You may be on a new trail and, as a prey animal, your horse is uncomfortable in the strange environment. Or he may be bothered about being in a group of horses, and fussing over keeping up with or getting ahead of the pack. Ideally, don’t take your horse out in a group until he’s reliably calm and relaxed by himself on the trail—to do so is one of the quickest ways to set him up to fail.

Use One Rein When your horse does start to jig, do not try to make him stop by pulling back on both reins. This is one of the biggest mistakes riders make, and it only invites resistance. The more you try to make a horse slow down with two reins, the more upset and nervous he gets, as it just makes him feel trapped and claustrophobic. 54

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Instead, use one rein at a time, drawing your hand back to your hip on the same side, to bend him into a small circle in one direction, then the other. Reinforce your hand with your leg on the same side (for example, when circling to the left, apply your left leg to bend his body in a leftward arc). Hustle his feet so he’s going in at least a brisk trot, making him work hard and putting him through frequent changes of direction. Your message here is, “If you want to speed up, let’s go!” But instead of letting him build speed as he goes down the trail, you’re directing his feet where you want them to go, plus making him move a bit faster than he’d choose on his own.

Dare Him to Jig As soon as he relaxes—by dropping his head and neck and feeling soft in your hands—let him slow down to a walk. Put him on a big, loose rein, and dare him to jig again. If you did a good job of directing his feet, he’ll be happy to slow down to a flat-footed walk. And when he does, keep him on the loose rein and give him a rub as a reward. If he gets jiggy again, immediately put his feet back to work. For variety, you can trot him in a series of serpentines, constantly asking him

ABOVE-LEFT: Pulling on both reins is not the way to stop jigging. It just makes your horse claustrophobic and more nervous. ABOVERIGHT: The solution for jigging is to move his feet. Use one rein to direct your horse in a circle, using his energy to activate the thinking part of his brain. LEFT: Change directions often, and move him briskly but not in an aggressive way. You want him to work up a little sweat but without becoming frightened.

January 2017 HorseandRider.com 55

ABOVE-LEFT: After the work, give your horse his head and dare him to jig again. If you’ve done your job, he’ll now welcome the chance to walk. ABOVE-RIGHT: When he gives you the nice, ﬂat-footed walk you desire, give him a rub and keep him on that big, loose rein as a reward.

to reshape his body and move his feet. Or use the environment—serpentine around trees and bushes, or circle around large rocks. Move him energetically, but don’t be so aggressive that you scare him. A horse that’s jigging is usually nervous; thumping his sides with your spurs or jerking on the reins will only make him more reactive. At the same time, don’t let him just jog around, either. You want him to sweat and realize that walking on a loose rein is by far the

better option. By repeating this training over time, your horse will get the message. Clinton Anderson, Stephenville, Texas, is a clinician, horse trainer, and competitor. Learn more about his clinics, appearances, and educational materials at DownunderHorsemanship.com.

HorseandRider.com Watch Clinton deal with a jigging horse.

If He’s Barn Sour If your horse is jigging on the way home because he’s eager to get back to the barn, try a different tactic. Let him trot briskly home, but once there, instead of unsaddling him and putting him up—what he wants— put his feet right to work. As close to the barn as is safe, hustle him in circles, serpentines, rollbacks, or any vigorous work that involves frequent changes of direction and a brisk pace. When he’s out of breath, walk him well away from the barn and let him rest a good ﬁve or 10 minutes, then return to the barn and work him some more. When you’re done, tie him up at the barn and let him stand for a while before unsaddling. This further curbs his enthusiasm for getting back to the barn, plus gives him time to soak up the day’s lesson.

HorseandRider.com January 2017

Beneﬁts of Longeing My “longeing for respect” is a great pre-ride exercise to prepare your horse not to jig, plus you can do it on the trail if you have a mecate or longe line. (For details, search “longeing for respect” at HorseandRider.com.)

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Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Learn about kinesiology tape and why itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s becoming Article and Photographs 58

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Talk

a popular alternative therapy for your equine partner. by Nichole Chirico January 2017 HorseandRider.com 59

ou probably noticed athletes at the 2016 Rio Olympics wearing tape on different parts of their bodies when they competed for gold. But did you know that your horse can benefit from the same tape these athletes use? While humans have been using different taping methods for several decades, it’s only now starting to become a popular alternative therapy for your equine partner. There are several strategies that can be applied to taping your horse, and each has different results. You can tape your horse to help with muscle soreness and muscle relaxation, and when applied properly it can even reduce swelling in an injury. Always consult your veterinarian fi rst when an injury is involved, and then discuss with your practitioner what taping can achieve. While taping is considered a safe alternative therapy, and you can purchase tape on your own, hire a certified practitioner to apply it to your horse to ensure that he’s taped properly for the best results. If you’re planning on taking your horse to a show, take time to learn and understand the rules regarding taping your horse if he’s competing—or even riding around—at an event. For example, at FEI events your horse can’t compete or wear tape while riding. However, you can tape your horse when he’s unsaddled and in the stable area. To learn more about kinesiology tape, we asked experts from three tape manufacturers to explain what it is, and to share their advice on how to be successful when using it.

EXPERT Insight #1 Dr. Rebecca A. McKee, bodyworker and Rock Tape (rocktape.com) clinician and educator. Taping philosophy: “The stickiness and stretchiness of the tape allows the hair to be lifted off the fascia, which wraps the muscles and connective tissues in your horse’s body and helps bring more circulation to that area,” McKee says. She advises that the stretch in the tape is for your horse’s range of motion; not for wrapping tightly against the skin. “With your horse, less stretch is more. That’s because your horse has an extra muscle layer known as the panniculus, which allows him to feel things—like flies— and move his skin to get rid of them. It also means he’s more sensitive to touch.” How it works: “Th is equine tape is similar to the tape swimmers use, so it’ll stay on when you bathe and ride your horse; it’ll even stay on if your horse needs to use a water treadmill,” she says. “Once you apply the tape to your horse, you’ll want to activate the adhesive by rubbing the tape with your hand.” Typically, you can leave the tape on your horse for up to five 60

HorseandRider.com January 2017

days, as long as it’s not beginning to peel. “After you remove the tape, I recommend leaving it off for a couple of days so you can evaluate how he’s moving,” McKee shares. What to avoid: “Try to avoid using tape when your horse is dirty,” she says. “If he’s dirty or shedding, try removing all of the loose hair and then use rubbing alcohol to wipe down and clean the area where you’re applying tape. The tape sticks best to clean, clipped horses.” Avoid using too much stretch when you’re applying the tape. “Because of your horse’s sensitivity,” McKee explains, “too much stretch will cause irritation to the skin.” Practitioner advice: “Always work with a certified taping practitioner,” she says. “You can find a certified practitioner online, or if you want to learn how to tape your horse, you can enroll in an equine-taping class.”

EXPERT Insight #2 James Ruder, president of RSB Animal Health and director of Equi-Tape Educational Services, and Dr. Beverly Gordon,

Once you apply the tape to your horse you’ll want to activate the adhesive by rubbing the tape with your hand.

chiropractor and founder/developer of Equi-Tape (equi-tape.com). Taping philosophy: Taping doesn’t enhance your horse’s abilities; it allows your horse to be more comfortable at the level of riding he’s designed to perform, and it’ll help improve his physical stamina. “Taping lifts the skin and helps feed the area increasing circulation and improving oxygen flow, while helping remove edema and lymph,” Ruder explains. “Taping works, depending on how you apply it,” Gordon shares. “If you want to decrease swelling, you’ll apply it differently than if you want to support a joint or muscle. The tape also allows full range of motion because of its stretch,” she says. How it works: “It’s all about application; coat length doesn’t really matter. Before you apply any tape, clean the area and make sure the hair lies flat,” Ruder shares. “Depending on what part of your horse you’re taping, you can leave tape on for several days, but length of time doesn’t necessarily mean better results,” he says. “The tape won’t have the same amount of recoil in a day or two that it did when you first applied it, so it isn’t as effective as times goes on.”

TOP: Always have a certiﬁed practitioner apply tape to your horse to ensure that he’s taped properly for best results. ABOVE: When you apply the tape to your horse it lifts the skin, which helps increase circulation and improve oxygen ﬂow.

What to avoid: “The tape won’t adhere well when there’s dust, debris, and oil on the hair,” he shares. “Make sure you clean the area you’re applying tape to, and use a dish soap to clean oily spots and break up the grease before you tape anything.” Pay careful attention to keeping the taped area clean. “If debris or foreign matter gets under the tape, it can be irritating and can possibly cause sores.” To avoid this, Ruder recommends applying a polo wrap or support wrap over the tape to protect the application when possible. “Don’t tape over open wounds, because you don’t want the adhesive on broken skin, potentially causing irritation to your horse,” Gordon adds. “However, you can put gauze over the wound before you tape it. Avoid taping over an active infection, like cellulitis, because you don’t want to increase January 2017 HorseandRider.com 61

A Taping Success Story

Equine tape is stickier than regular kinesiology tape, so it will stay on your horse for a few days, even during riding sessions.

circulation and possibly have the infection spread.” Practitioner advice: “Look for a professional equine practitioner who’s been trained and certified to tape your horse,” Ruder explains. “We train practitioners such as equine veterinarians, chiropractors, massage therapists, and acupuncturists who are looking to expand their toolbox of offerings to customers.”

EXPERT Insight #3 Linda Delker, project manager for Kinesiotaping (kinesiotaping.com). Taping philosophy: “Taping works naturally with the body,” Delker says. “By putting tape on your horse’s hair, you’re actually simulating the hair follicle—which originates in the second layer of skin—lifting it up, and bringing blood flow to areas to help with pain or stress. It’s an alternative if you want to support your horse naturally. Taping gives him support and pain 62

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Professional barrel racer Deb Guelly first learned about equine taping when she held a barrel racing clinic that included equine-taping practitioner Jeff Moore. “If you just tell people about taping, chances are they’re not going to do it,” she says. “But when people see how it actually works on a horse, and see an immediate difference, they’re going to apply that information. During my clinic, Jeff did a slideshow on the biomechanics of a horse. Afterward, we had the opportunity to watch a few horses move, discuss where they’re sore, and tape the horses. Then we saw firsthand what a difference it made for each horse’s movement.” Guelly became a believer in kinesiology tape after she taped an old injury of hers, and could feel a difference immediately. “A while back I shattered my leg. During that same clinic, Jeff put me on a scale to show me how I put more weight in one side of the saddle,” she explains. “He taped me up and I could immediately tell that I was staying even in the saddle, which in turn helps my horses perform better.” A few months after that clinic, one of Guelly’s competition horses ruptured a tendon. A physiotherapist recommended taping her horse’s tendon to help with the healing process. “When we first decided to tape his tendon, he’d been on stall rest for two months already,” she says. “We taped it up and immediately saw a difference when he walked out of the stall. He hadn’t left his stall for almost two months, and after we applied tape, he walked out fairly sound for having the injury he has.” After five months of taping her horse, Scooter, Guelly is hearing positive feedback. “He’s not as sore when he’s taped and he doesn’t have as many problems walking around. We just did an ultrasound on him, and my vet’s happy with how he’s healing.” Guelly believes that taping has helped with Scooter’s injury, and while he’ll never return to competition, he’ll now be able to live comfortably in a pasture after he’s completed rehab. Although most of Guelly’s taping experience comes from using it for rehab purposes, she’s recently applied it to a few of her horses during competition, and had great results. “We all have certain spots that hurt, and if my horse has a certain spot that hurts, I’m going to apply tape to help with that pain,” she explains. “When one of my other competition horse’s suffered from sacroiliac pain, I had Jeff apply tape to the area, and I noticed it helped him. Taping doesn’t cure the issue, but I was able to leave the tape on while I competed at a few rodeos, and could feel a difference in how he rode.”

relief. It’s also a great way to bond with and care for your horse.” How it works: While tape made for humans can work on your horse, the equine tape is designed to work directly with the horse’s hair. “The equine version of this tape is stickier than tape designed for humans,” Delker says. “You can leave the tape on for days; you can even bathe your horse with it on.” However, Delker recommends that if you encounter tape that doesn’t remove easily, it’s best to let the skin and hair rest before you re-tape the area to avoid any irritation.

What to avoid: “Don’t use any type of oils, liniments, or fly spray before you apply tape, because it won’t stick properly,” she says. Also, don’t wrap the tape all the way around the leg. “There should always be a gap between the two ends of tape to avoid cutting off your horse’s circulation.” Practitioner advice: “If you’re looking to work on a high-level problem with your horse, look for someone who’s completed training from a taping company,” she shares. “And the practitioner should have extensive knowledge in the equine anatomy and physiology.”

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S T O R E MAKE FITNESS YOUR GOAL THIS YEAR Fit to Ride in 9 Weeks!: Achieve Straightness, Suppleness, and Stamina in the Saddle Certified personal trainer and riding coach Heather Sansom has developed an utterly achievable 9-week plan to give every rider the straightness, suppleness, strength, and stamina she needs to ride her best. With hundreds of one-of-a-kind illustrations depicting accurate musculature on the rider’s body, and dozens of proven exercises organized in a progressive fitness program with easy-to-use schedule charts, Sansom’s book is the key to enjoying the ride, being fair to your horse, and getting into fabulous shape—in just a couple of months. Paperback, 208 pp.

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Nine Pilates Essentials for the Balanced Rider A Magic Circle Workout In this DVD, popular Pilates instructor and dressage rider Janice Dulak breaks down the body into nine essential “parts” that riders often are not even aware they have, let alone actively engage and use. By incorporating the “Magic Circle “exercise ring in a series of exercises, riders get a workout that targets and trains these specific and very important muscles and muscle groups in ways that will instantly apply to their riding. DVD, run time 57 mins.

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Problem 1. Correct

Solvers

Correct Lead-Change Anticipation All-around trainer Leslie Lange provides exercises for a reader who’s having trouble with her gelding anticipating lead changes in horsemanship and Western riding. Produced and Photographed by Nichole Chirico

I’ve recently purchased a new all-around gelding that I show in the Western riding and horsemanship at Quarter Horse shows. I’ve taken him to a few horse shows now, and I’ve noticed whenever there’s a flying lead change in a horsemanship pattern, or when we go down the line in Western riding, he knows where to change and tries to anticipate it. What can I do to make him listen to my cues and keep him from changing leads without my asking? SARA MAYES, Ohio

Lead-change anticipation is something you might have to work on when you’re showing a seasoned all-around horse that’s been competing for some time. It’s easy for a horse to start anticipating a change, especially in Western riding, because there are only a few patterns and essentially you’re changing leads in a similar spot each time. Eventually he learns those patterns, knows where he’s supposed to change, and tries to do it on his own. Here I’ll discuss a few different ways you can approach working on leadchange anticipation at home or warming up at your next show.

Before You Practice Before you begin any lead-change exercises with your horse, try doing something as simple as leaving your cones out in the arena every time you ride. This works for both Western riding and horsemanship anticipation. Having cones out in the arena allows your horse to get comfortable being around them, no matter what you’re working on. Even on days

One key to avoiding anticipation is keeping your routine from being too…routine. For example, don’t change every lead every time you go down the line when practicing Western riding. Try mixing it up by only changing one or two leads so he has to rely on your cue.

when you’re not practicing Western riding or horsemanship, ride through and around them. This will help him

stop associating lead changes with cones and allow him relax when he’s near them. → January 2017 HorseandRider.com 65

Problem 1. Correct

Solvers

Make a connection.

If you feel your horse start to change leads, gently stop him before he changes. Be sure it’s not a punishment, but rather positive reinforcement.

Stop Correctly

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S T O R E

Stopping a horse that’s trying to change leads on his own is tricky, but can be a useful correction if executed properly. It’s extremely important that when you stop your horse it’s not a punishment, but rather positive reinforcement. If you jerk on your horse and slam him into the ground, you’re going to scare him and he’ll remember it as a negative experience. This means you’ll spend an exponential amount of time trying to regain his confidence, and could potentially create new problems. To successfully stop your horse, start by going down the Western riding line like you normally do when you’re practicing. When you feel your horse start to anticipate, go ahead and gently stop him before he changes. If he stops on his front end, or the stop just isn’t very clean, softly back him up a few steps and let him settle. After you settle, walk out of the line and pick up your lope elsewhere in the arena. The next time you approach the line, don’t change any leads. If you stop him too many times he’ll start to anticipate the stop. Instead, make him lope through the line on the same lead, and focus on keeping the same pace without him elevating his shoulders or top line.

Change It Up Don’t be afraid to mix things up when you’re practicing. You don’t need to

A great exercise you can do at home or at the shows is circling the cone until your horse relaxes and focuses on you rather than the lead change.

change every lead every time you go down the line. There are a few different exercises you can do to change how you warm up or practice at home. Exercise 1: Skipping changes Try only changing one or two leads, so he has to rely on your cue to tell him when it’s time to change. First lope the entire line on the same lead; make him focus on what you’re telling him to do, and work on keeping a steady rhythm. Don’t be afraid to go down the line multiple times without changing. It’s about getting him to relax and listen to your cues, rather than him focusing on where he is in the cones. Once he starts to relax and keeps a steady pace, add one or two changes to the line. Change the first lead in the line, then skip the middle two, and change the last one. Continue challenging him by switching up where you change your leads. You can also skip the first two and change the last two, or just pick one spot to change leads in the line. This is something you can do both at home and while warming up for your class at a horse show. Exercise 2: Loping a circle When you feel your horse start to el-

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Advertiser’s Index Classifieds APPAREL/ACCESSORIES

APPAREL & ACCESSORIES Cruel Denim www.crueldenim.com ...................................CV2 Hobby Horse Clothing Company www.hobbyhorseinc.com ................................69 Kimes Ranch www.kimesranch.com .....................................67 Resistol www.resistolridesafe.com ............................CV4 Smooth Stride Jeans www.smoothstride.com...................................69 Twisted X Boot Company www.twistedx.com ..........................................23

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EVENTS Dixie Renegade Trailer Giveaway www.horseandrider.com/dixie-renegade-trailer-giveaway ......................................................57 Horse Expo Events www.horseexpoevents.com ............................66 Win a Day with Fallon Taylor www.horseandrider.com/win-a-day ...............47

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HORSE & RIDER VOLUME LVI, NUMBER 1 (ISSN 0018-5159/USPS 523-410) COPYRIGHT 2017, CRUZ BAY PUBLISHING, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PUBLISHED MONTHLY BY CRUZ BAY PUBLISHING, INC., AN ACTIVE INTEREST MEDIA COMPANY. THE KNOWN OFFICE OF PUBLICATION IS AT 5720 FLATIRON PARKWAY, BOULDER, CO 80301. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT BOULDER, CO. AND AT ADDITIONAL MAILING OFFICES. POSTMASTER: PLEASE SEND CHANGE OF ADDRESS TO HORSE & RIDER, SUBSCRIPTION SERVICE DEPT., P.O. BOX 420235, PALM COAST, FL 32142-0235. CANADA POST PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT NO. 40612608, CANADIAN GST NUMBER 12345 2781 RT0001. CANADA RETURNS TO BE SENT TO BLEUCHIP INTERNATIONAL, P.O. BOX 25542, LONDON, ON N6C 6B2 CANADA. ONE YEAR (12 ISSUES) SUBSCRIPTION RATE: $24 UNITED STATES. THE CONTENTS OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT CONSENT OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER. OPINIONS EXPRESSED HEREIN ARE THOSE OF THE EXPERTS CONSULTED, AND DO NOT NECESSARILY REFLECT THE OPINIONS OF THE EDITORS OR POLICY OF HORSE & RIDER MAGAZINE. UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS AND PHOTOGRAPHS ACCOMPANIED BY RETURN POSTAGE WILL BE HANDLED WITH CARE, BUT PUBLISHER IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR SAFETY. PLEASE ALLOW 3 MONTHS FOR REPLY. REPRINTS: CONTACT WRIGHTS REPRINTS TO PURCHASE QUALITY CUSTOM REPRINTS OR E-PRINTS OF ARTICLES APPEARING IN THIS PUBLICATION AT (877)652-5295 (281/419-5725 OUTSIDE THE U.S. AND CANADA)

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You Said It!

How I Solved My Horse’s Problem You describe a training or behavior problem your horse had—and how you ﬁxed it. HI-HO, SILVER! MY MARE had learned that when she didn’t want to do something, she could avoid it by rearing. I did the smart thing and signed her up for professional training. I’ve had her 12 years now and she’s been an awesome horse with no bad habits. Melanie Williams, California

MY 3-YEAR-OLD GELDING was extremely head-shy when I got him. I bought a small, soft face brush that ﬁt in my hand and brushed his face every single day with it. He soon learned to enjoy—instead of hate— having his face touched. Ralynn Vaal, Indiana

RASPUTIN, MY APPENDIX QUARTER HORSE gelding, always rushed into the lope. I read that I should give him his head at the lope depart, and it worked like magic! He strikes off much better now that he’s not worried about being told to “go” and “slow” at the exact same time. Jennalyn Morris, Georgia

CHERI, MY PAINT MARE, used to step off just as I’d settle into the saddle at mounting. Then I started a routine where I always checked my position plus planned what I wanted to do before letting her take even one step. Now she assumes I’ll be doing a “systems check” and so stands still and waits until I cluck and squeeze. Tiffany Benson, Texas

MY GELDING CHILI PEPPER used to throw his head nonstop as I was riding. So, every time he tossed his head, I ﬂexed him around in a circle. It wasn’t a quick or easy process, but it worked! Sadie Gaskins, Florida

I COULDN’T GET FEED INTO MY APPALOOSA GELDING’S feeder because his head was always in the way. I began saying, “Head back!” in a commanding way, then waiting as long as it took for him to pull his head in before I’d dump in his feed. I was amazed at how quickly he changed his behavior, once I was both insistent and consistent. Barbara Martinez, California

CHANCE, MY DRAFT-CROSS GELDING, stumbled a lot even after I had him vetchecked and declared sound. My farrier suggested I start riding with mild spurs, and to collect him up a bit. I did that and it’s really made a difference. Raylene Lindeman, Oklahoma

ALL MY HORSES would strew their grass hay around as if it were straw. I put in slow-feed nets and the problem was solved, plus my horses take longer to ﬁnish eating—another good thing. Taylor Andrews, Ohio

MY PAINT HORSE has a pink nose and got quite sunburnt early last summer. I found you can use aloe vera on the burn to soothe the pain, plus generic sunblock to prevent it. Evelyn Gilbreath, Missouri

Join in! In 50 or so words, describe your dream barn—if money were no object. Respond by January 15 to jfmeyer@aim media.com. Please include your full name and home state, and put “You Said It/Dream Barn” in the subject line. 72

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Illustration by Navah Rae Adams