Souvenirs: a collection of international experiences

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Editor’s Note FG&,8"*#6%>H'$%'/I>",'8"%4*$<"8'&%'/,"J%')6,B"*'>/'>*&C"#0'>)"'6*B"'>/'#"&C"' /,"J%')/@"'&,8'"K2#/*"'>)"'9/*#8E'L6*'B","*&>$/,')&%'B*/9,'62'$,'&'>$@"'9)"*"' $>J%'&#@/%>'"K2"4>"8'>/'>*&C"#'&<*/&8'$,'%/@"'4&2&4$>ME'G"'&*"'>/#8'>)&>'$,>"*,&>$/,&#'"K2"*$",4"'&,8'#$C$,B'&%'&'B#/<&#'4$>$:",'9$##'<","+>'/6*'I6>6*"'4&*""*' 4)/$4"%E'N6>'9)">)"*'$>J%'>/'<6$#8'"K2"*$",4"'/*'*"C"#'$,'I/*"$B,'9/,8"*%0'%>68",>%'>*&C"#'&##'>)"'>$@"0'I6#+##$,B'>)"$*'9&,8"*#6%>'>)*/6B)'2*/B*&@%'>/'%>68M' &,8'$,>"*,'&<*/&80'>/'C/#6,>""*0'/*'>/'C&4&>$/,'$,'&'I/*"$B,'4/6,>*ME'3/*'I/6*' M"&*%',/90 Souvenirs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ouvenirs. Q##'>)"'<"%>'>/'M/60'9)"*"C"*'M/6'@&M'>*&C"#E

Editor‐in‐Chief Gayle Cottrill Operations and Marketing Manager Kerriann Ehlen Layout Editors Patricia Mo, Kristina Rozenbergs Copy Editors Zoe Cooper, Kiran Gosal, Catherine Martin, Christie Ott, !"#$%%&'()&*&+,%-$ Web Editor Tian Cao

souvenirs2011[17].indd 2

Submission Reviewers .)#/"'.#&*-0'1/"'.//2"*0'()$*&'3#"%4)0' Kati Garness, Monet Goudreault, 5&6*",'7/8-$"9$4:0';%&<"#'=$#-0' Carolyn Lucas, Catherine Martin, !"#$%%&'()&*&+,%-$ WUD Directors Publications Committee: (&*&)'!&>)"9% Global Connections Committee: Lily Atonio Advisors (6%&,'?$<<"##0'=$@'A/B"*%' Contact 69%/6C",$*%DB@&$#E4/@

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P&#-'>)"'P&#-' 2 N*">>'N"*,%>"", Hong Kong 7 Meher Ahmad P)"'.6#>6*"'/I'&'R$4"'7/>'N&>)' 10 Taylor Nye '

3$,B"*2*$,>%' 14 Charles Godfrey G$##';>'SC"*'S,8 20 !&>>'LJN*$",

.//-$,B'56,4)'$,'&'TU>)'.",>6*M'N&*,' 23 S#$:&<">)'.*&9I/*8 Q**$C$,B'$,'.&@</8$&' 28 V*&M4"'3/*%M>)" ;,>/'>)"'?$&@/,8'(-M' 30 Peter Allen

Green Sea, Algarve, Portugal by Pati Mo

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Venezia, Italy by Kayla Schwalbe

by Brett Bernsteen Of my study abroad experience so far, people often &%-'$I';JC"'"K2"*$",4"8'46#>6*"' %)/4-E';'>"##'>)"@'>)&>'I/*'>)"' @/%>'2&*>0';JC"'&8O6%>"8'2*">>M' "&%$#M'>/'#$C$,B'$,'&'I/*"$B,' country, especially since this $%'@M'+*%>'>$@"'&4*/%%'>)"' 2/,8E'N6>'$I'>)"*"J%'/,"'>)$,B' ;'4/,>$,6"'>/'%>*6BB#"'9$>)0'$>J%' 8"+,$>"#MEEE'

9&M'>)"*"E'G)",'>)"M'9&#-' in the front door, the Spanish %9$>4)'$%'>6*,"8'/,'&,8',/' S,B#$%)'$%')"&*8E'Q,8'9)",' 4#&%%'$%'/C"*0'>)"M'9&#-'/6>'>)"' door, and once again English *"&*%'$>%'6B#M')"&8E';'I""#' #$-"';J@'#$C$,B'&'8/6<#"'#$I"E' L<C$/6%#M0'>)$%'$%,J>'>)"'<"%>' 9&M'>/'#"&*,'>)"'#&,B6&B"0'<6>' @M'I"##/9'%>68M'&<*/&8'%>68",>%' 9$##'@/%>'#$-"#M'&B*""'9$>)' (2&,$%)E @"'9)",';'%&M'>)&>'%2"&-$,B'&' foreign language all day long My time here in Spain can 4&,'<"'SZ7Q[(P;RVE */6B)#M'<"'8$C$8"8'$,'>9/W'<"$,B' G)",'@M')/%>'@/@'+*%>' &>')/@"'&,8'&>'%4)//#'X%2"&-$,B' 2$4-"8'@"'62'I*/@'>)"')/>"#0'$>' only Spanish, all the time) and $@@"8$&>"#M'<"4&@"'/<C$/6%' <"$,B'/6>'&,8'&</6>'9$>)'/>)"*' >)&>'%)"'%2/-"',/'S,B#$%)E'Q>' Q@"*$4&,%'X%2"&-$,B'&,'/88' &##E'?6*$,B'>)"'+*%>'I"9'8&M%0';' @$K'/I'S,B#$%)'2"22"*"8'9$>)' 9&%'/,'>)"'*"4"$C$,B'",8'/I'&'#/>' 8*6,-",'(2&,$%)'2)*&%"%YE';>J%' /I'<#&,-'%>&*"%0')"&8%'%)&-$,B' &'%>*&,B"'2*/4"%%'I/*'>)"'<*&$,E' in confusion, and on many Q@"*$4&,%'9&#-'$,'8*/C"%'>/' /44&%$/,%0'>)"'F;')&C"'&<%/#6>"#M' /6*'%4)//#0'%2"&-$,B'S,B#$%)' ,/'$8"&'9)&>'M/6'O6%>'%&$8'>/' &@/,B%>'"&4)'/>)"*'>)"'9)/#"' @"H'8"4#&*&>$/,E'(/';'/I>",'

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, y a e

%$@2#M'%>&M"8'\6$">E';'I"#>';J8' *&>)"*',/>'%2"&-'&>'&##'>)&,'%&M' %/@">)$,B'%>62$8'/*'$,4/**"4>E' !M'+*%>'8&M'$,'!&8*$8';'8$8,J>' "&>'6,>$#'>",'2E@E'<"4&6%"'$>' >//-'@"'>)&>'#/,B'>/'@6%>"*'>)"' courage to order something at &'*"%>&6*&,>E';>'9&%'>)",'>)&>';' *"&#$:"8'>9/'>)$,B%W'TY';'9&%' )6,B*ME']Y'P)"'/,#M'9&M'>/'B/' &</6>',/>'<"$,B')6,B*M'9&%'>/' &%%$@$#&>"'&,8'%2"&-E ;>'%""@%'&%'>)/6B)'@M' (2&,$%)'2*/+4$",4M'8"C"#/2%' $,'4M4#"%E'(/@"'8&M%';'4&,' 4/@@6,$4&>"'9$>)'@M')/%>'@/@' &,8'@M'>"&4)"*%'O6%>'+,"E';')&C"' I"9'2*/<#"@%'6,8"*%>&,8$,B' >)"@'&,8'%/@">$@"%'"C",'B">' 4/@2#$@",>"8'/,'@M'%2"&-$,B' &<$#$>ME'^">'/,'/>)"*'8&M%0'$>J%' &%'$I';J@'$,'>)"'%"C",>)'B*&8"' &B&$,E';I';J@'>$*"80')6,B*M'/*' B","*&##M'O6%>',/>'$,'>)"'@//80' @M'%-$##%'%""@'>/'B/'8/9,'>)"' >/$#">E';'I/*B">'>)"'@/%>'4/@@/,' /I'9/*8%0'4/,I6%"'2*/,/6,%'X>)"' 8"C$#'/I'>)"'(2&,$%)'#&,B6&B"Y' and sometimes trail off mid%",>",4"'<"4&6%"';'%688",#M' *"&#$:"'>)&>';')&C"'&<%/#6>"#M' ,/'$8"&')/9'>/'B/'&</6>'%&M$,B' 9)&>';'9&,>'>/E P)"'@/%>'8$I+46#>'>)$,B' about Spanish for me is not the dialects, the grammar, or "C",'>)"'%2""8'&>'9)$4)'2"/2#"' )"*"'%2"&-E';>'$%'@M'#&4-'/I' C/4&<6#&*ME';J@'B","*&##M' B//8'&</6>'&%-$,B')/9'>/'%&M' %/@">)$,B'9$>)'9)$4)';J@' unfamiliar, but often times the ,"9'9/*8'#"&C"%'@M'@$,8'I&%>"*' >)&,'M/6'4&,'%&M'F<*&$,'I&*>HE'

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;J@'2*">>M'%6*"';JC"'&%-"8'@M' )/%>'@/@')/9'>/'%&M'F-$>4)",' %$,-H'&>'#"&%>'+C"'>$@"%'&,8'%>$##' 8/,J>'*"@"@<"*E'R/>)$,B'$%' @/*"'I*6%>*&>$,B'>)&,'9)",'M/6' *"&#$:"'M/6'8/,J>'-,/9')/9'>/' %&M'&'4"*>&$,'9/*8'$,'(2&,$%)' and there’s no chance in hell >)"'2"*%/,'M/6J*"'%2"&-$,B' 9$>)'$%'B/$,B'>/'-,/9'9)&>' M/6J*"'>&#-$,B'&</6>'"$>)"*E' P)&>J%'9)",'M/6')&C"'>/'*"%/*>' >/'>)"'9/,8"*I6#'2*/4"%%'/I' circumlocution: trying (usually unsuccessfully) to describe the @"&,$,B'/I'>)"'I/*B/>>",'9/*8' the best you possibly can using 9/*8%'M/6'8/'*"@"@<"*E' P&-"0'I/*'"K&@2#"0'&' 8$%46%%$/,';')&8'9$>)'@M' )/%>'@/@'9)$#"'9&>4)$,B'&' <&%-"><&##'B&@"E'7"*',&@"'$%' Q,B"#$>&0'&,8';'9$##'>*&,%#&>"'/6*' 4/,C"*%&>$/,'$,>/'S,B#$%)E Q,B"#$>&W'N*">>0'9)&>'$%'>)"' ,&@"'/I'M/6*'%4)//#J%'<&%-"><&##' team? N*">>W'G"'&*"'4&##"8'>)"' G$%4/,%$,'N&8B"*%E Q,B"#$>&W'EEEEG)&>_'G)&>'$%' N&&&))))OOO666)_ N*">>W'[)EEE;'%&$8'N&8B"*_ Q,B"#$>&W'`&>*$/>_'5$-"'*"80' 9)$>"'&,8'<#6"a N*">>W'R/0'N&8B"*0'#$-"'>)"' &,$@&#E Q,B"#$>&W';J@',/>'I&@$#$&*'9$>)'

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>)$%'&,$@&#E'`#"&%"'8"%4*$<"'$>'I/*'@"E

</K0'>9$%>'#/B$4'&,8'<*&C"'>)"'8&Mb>/b 8&M'%>*6BB#"%'/I'&'+%)'/6>b/Ib9&>"*E' N*">>W'XSighsY'G"##0'$>'$%'I6**M0'<#&4-' Q#*"&8M';J@',/>$4$,B'>)"'I*6$>%'/I'@M' &,8'9)$>"'&,8')&%'C"*M'#&*B"'4#&9%E';>' #&</*E';JC"'<"4/@"'&'<">>"*'#$%>","*0' 4&,'<"'&'C"*M'C$4$/6%'&,$@&#E';>'#$C"%'$,' a more concise communicator and >)"'I/*"%>E /C"*&##'&'@/*"'2&>$",>'2"*%/,E'P)$%' "K2"*$",4"')&%'4)&,B"8'@"'I/*"C"*0' Q,B"#$>&W'5$-"'&'<"&*a &,8'>)&>J%'9)&>'%>68M$,B'&<*/&8'$%'&##' &</6>E ! N*">>W'G"##0'%/*>'/I0'<6>'@64)'%@&##"*E' ;>'$%'*/6B)#M'>)"'%$:"'/I'&'%@&##'8/B'&,8' )&%'%>*$2"8'2&>>"*,%E Q,B"#$>&W'5$-"'&'*&44//,a N*">>W'[@E'R/>'\6$>"E';>'$%'@64)'@/*"' &BB*"%%$C"'>)&,'&'*&44//,E';>'#$C"%'$,' <6**/9%'6,8"*B*/6,8_ Q,B"#$>&W'L)))EEE';'6,8"*%>&,8E'5$-"' &'%-6,-a'P)&>'@6%>'%@"##')/**$<#"E' What a silly choice for a school @&%4/>E N*">>W'XShrugs shoulders, surrenders in defeat) P)&>'8&M0'(2&,$%)'9/,'>)"'<&>>#"c' <6>';'*"I6%"'>/'#">'$>'9$,'>)"'9&*E';,' >)&>'$,%>&,4"';'@&M',/>')&C"'<"",' %644"%%I6#'$,'4/,C"M$,B'@M'>)/6B)>%0' <6>'"C"*M'",4/6,>"*'#$-"'>)$%'/,"'$%' &'#$>>#"'C$4>/*M'$,'$>%"#IE'5$C$,B'&,8' learning in a foreign language has 4)&##",B"8'@"'$,'9&M%';'4/6#8',"C"*' )&C"'&,>$4$2&>"8'/*'2*"2&*"8'I/*d$>' )&%'I/*4"8'@"'>/'>)$,-'/6>%$8"'>)"'

Brett Bernsteen is a Junior pursuing degrees in American History and Spanish Language. He is currently studying Liberal Arts in Sevilla, Spain with the hopes of someday mastering those Spanish pronouns. 4

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Members of Grupo Cultural Arte Consciente, a program that works to give children a safe and productive after-school environment, work on a piece of !"#$%&'(#"&)

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Se Ho Ko Isl by Hs

A Habitat for Humanity group carries a beam into the work site.

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Sevva Hong Kong Island by Wei足Li Hsu

by Meher Ahmad 7/,B'e/,B'$%'*"@&*-&<#"' $,'"C"*M'%",%"'/I'>)"'9/*8E';>J%' a beautiful mash-up of Oriental tradition, high-speed technology &,8'*&9'4&2$>&#$%@E'L,"'2&*>'/I' >)"'4$>M'%>6@<#"%')/@"'&>'+C"' &E@E'I*/@'>)"',$B)>4#6<%'/I'5&,' e9&$'3/,B'&%'>)"'/>)"*'*$%"%' I/*'@/*,$,B'P&$'.)$'"K"*4$%"%E' The lush hillsides are coated 9$>)'4"@",>'$,'%/@"'&*"&%'>/' stop landslides during the rainy %"&%/,0'&,8';'*"@"@<"*'9)",' ;'+*%>'@/C"8'>)"*"0'$,'>)"'I&##' of my sophomore year of high %4)//#0';'>)/6B)>'$>'#//-"8' #$-"'>)"'=6*&%%$4'`&*-'*$8"'$,' [,$C"*%&#'(>68$/%E'P)"'9)/#"' 4$>M'9&%'&,'&9"%/@"'>)"@"' 2&*-'I/*'>)"'>9"",b@"E' NM'%2*$,B'/I'>)&>'M"&*0' ;')&8'@&8"'@M'<"%>'I*$",8%E' G"'9"*"'9"&#>)M'"K2&>*$&>"%0' &##'/I'6%E'G"'2&*&8"8'>)*/6B)' >)"'4$>M0'#&6B)$,B'&,8'>&#-$,B' obnoxiously loud, because it

9&%'/6*%E'Q%'I/*"$B,"*%0'>)"*"' 9&%'&'%",%"'/I'"@2/9"*@",>0' #$-"'9"'4/6#8'8/'9)&>"C"*'9"' 9&,>"8'&,8'B">'&9&M'9$>)'$>E' ;,'@/%>'4&%"%0'9"'4/6#8E';>J%'&,' unfortunate age for a situation #$-"'>)&>'>/'/446*0'>)/6B)0' <"4&6%"'"C"*M'TUbM"&*b/#8' >)$,-%'>)"MJ*"'>)"'%bbb'&#*"&8M' and the last thing they need is I/*'>)&>',/>$/,'>/'<"'C&#$8&>"8E' P)"'+*%>'>$@"';'9&%'"C"*' 4&6B)>'8*$,-$,B'<M'@M'2&*",>%' 9&%'>)&>'M"&*E';'26>'/,'@M'' %"\6$,"80'%4//2b,"4-'F4#6<<$,B' >/20H'9)$4)'$,'*">*/%2"4>'#//-"8' absurd for a child of that age to <"'9"&*$,BE';'#//-"8'/6>'$,>/' the Hong Kong harbor from our 40th'f//*'&2&*>@",>0'-,/9$,B' I6##'9"##';'9&%'B/$,B'>/'4#$@<'62' &,8'8/9,'>)&>')$##0'62'&,8'8/9,' those stairs, in and out of clubs &,8'<&*%E'P)"*"'9&%',/'2#&,0',/>' "C",'>)"'6%6&#'I&-"'%#""2/C"*E';' 9&%'$,C$,4$<#"c'$>'8$8,J>'@&>>"*'

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$I';'9&%'B/$,B'>/'B">'$,'>*/6<#"E' ;'#$%>","8'>/'@M'F4#6<'@$KH' playlist on my iPod on the metro across the harbor, into Central 7/,B'e/,BE';'@">'@M'I*$",8%'&>' a restaurant inside of Admiralty !&##0'$,'<">9"",'#6K6*M'%>/*"%' &,8'5&,"'.*&9I/*8E'G"'&>"'&,' &<%6*8#M'"K2",%$C"'8$,,"*',/' )$B)b%4)//#"*'%)/6#8'"C"*')&C"E' G"'8*&,-E'G"'#"I>'>)"'*"%>&6*&,>' &,8'9",>'>/'&'<&*'&,8'4/,>$,6"8' 8*$,-$,BE'G"'9",>'>/'%/@"'%/*>' /I'F"K4#6%$C"H'*//I>/2'2&*>M' $,'!$8#"C"#%'I/*'%/@"/,"J%' TUth'<$*>)8&M0'&,8'8*&,-'@/*"E' G"'#"I>'>)"'2&*>M'&,8'9",>'>/' `&*-'g$"90'&'%"4#68"8')$B)'*$%"' &2&*>@",>'I6##'/I'$,C"%>@",>' <&,-"*%E'G"'8*&,-'@/*"E' The city fed into our I&,>&%$"%E'G"')&8'>)"'@/,"M'>/' -""2'8/$,B'>)"'",8#"%%'>)$,B%' 7/,B'e/,B'-"2>'>)*/9$,B'&>'6%E' More clubs, more bars, more restaurants, more rooftops, more 8*$,-%0'@/*"'8*6B%E'G)&>"C"*' 9"'9&,>"80'9"'B/>E'N6>'9"' 9"*"'%>$##'+I>"",E'!M'8&8'4&##"8' @"'>)&>',$B)>0'9/,8"*$,B'9)M' ;')&8,J>'4/@"')/@"E';>'9&%' 4#"&*'<M'@M'%2""4)'>)&>';'9&%' "K>*"@"#M'8*6,-0'&,8')"'4&@"' >/'2$4-'@"'62'%)/*>#M'&I>"*E';' remember passing out in the 4&*'&,8'9&-$,B'62'>/'&'#&*B"' f&%)E'Q'%2""8b8">"4>$,B'4&@"*&' )&8'>&-",'&'2$4>6*"'/I'/6*'4&*0' freezing the image of my father &,8';')6*8#$,B'>)*/6B)'7/,B' e/,BJ%'A&$,</9'A/&8%E';I'M/6' I/6,8'>)&>'2$4>6*"',/90'M/6J8' <"'&<#"'>/'%""'>)&>')"'9&%'@/*"' %)/4-"8'>)&,'8$%&22/$,>"80'&,8';'

9&%'I&*'>//'$,"<*$&>"8'>/'*"B$%>"*' "@/>$/,%E';'9",>'<&4-'62'>/'/6*' apartment, to my bed next to our f//*b>/b4"$#$,B'9$,8/9%'I&4$,B' >)"')&*</*E'(/@">$@"%'#//-$,B' /6>'&4*/%%'&'4$>MJ%'%-M#$,"'@&-"%' M/6'I""#'%@&##0'<6>',/>'>)",E';' >/9"*"8'/C"*'>)"'4$>Mc'$>'9&%' @$,"'I/*'>)"'>&-$,BE' ;'@/C"8'<&4-'>/'>)"' American suburbs the year &I>"*E';>'9&%'2*/<&<#M'>)"'@/%>' 8"2*"%%$,B'M"&*'/I'@M'#$I"c'&' 8*&9,'/6>'4/@"'8/9,'I*/@' &')6B"'"B/'>*$2E';'8$8,J>')&C"' >)"'4$>M0'&,8'9$>)/6>'$>';'9&%' O6%>'&,/>)"*'-$8'$,';,8$&,&E';' &#$",&>"8'@M'I*$",8%'I*/@'<&4-' )/@"'<"4&6%"'&##';'4/6#8'8/'9&%' B6%)'&</6>'7/,B'e/,BE' ;'%>$##'I&##'$,>/'>)&>'>*&20' M"&*%'&I>"*'>)"'I&4>E';>J%'9/*>)' B6%)$,B'/C"*0'>)/6B)E';JC"'/I>",' >)/6B)>'&</6>'9)">)"*'@M'#$I"' 9$##'"C"*'<"'>)&>'B*"&>'&B&$,0'$,' >"*@%'/I')/9'@64)'9&%'&>'@M' +,B"*>$2%'&,8')/9'"C"*M',$B)>' I"#>',"9E';'8/,J>'>)$,-';J##'"C"*' <"'&%')&22M'&%';'9&%'$,'>)&>' 8"#6%$/,E'!M'"M"%'9"*"'B#&:"8' /C"*'I*/@'>)"'<*$B)>'.&,>/,"%"' signs, the alcohol and most of all the boundless energy 7/,B'e/,B')&8'>/'/II"*E';'9&%' <#$%%I6##M'6,&9&*"'/I')/9'9"' *"&##M'+>'$,>/'>)"'4$>M0'<6>'<&4-' >)",'9"'9"*"'>)"'-$,B%'&,8' queens of Hong Kong, and the 4$>M'#">'6%'<"#$"C"'$>E'! Meher Ahmad lived in Hong Kong her sophomore year of high school because of her mother’s job.

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The pagoda of the Great Wild Goose was built in the 8th century out of earth. It still stands today as an incredibly impressive work of architecture. 9

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by Taylor Nye ;I'>)"*"J%'/,"'>)$,B';JC"' #"&*,"8'&<*/&80'$>J%'>/'>&-"'&' \6$4-'%)/9"*E' P)"'3*",4)'9/6#8',"C"*' %&M'>)"M'",O/M'&'<6<<#"'<&>)0' &,8'>)"';>&#$&,%';JC"'%>&M"8'9$>)' )&C"'<&*"#M'"C",')&8'&'>6<E'!M' mom reads magazines in the bath until she steams the pages from their glue and the corners >6*,'2$,-'9$>)'@/#8c'$,';>&#$&,' households, on the other hand, ;')&C"'>/'&8O6%>'>)"'9&>"*'-,/<%' 9$>)'%4$",>$+4'&446*&4M'>/'B">' %/@">)$,B'<">9"",'%4&#8$,B'&,8' I*$B$8E' L,"'A/@&,'&2&*>@",>';' #$C"8'$,'9&%'/,'>)"'%$K>)'f//*0' so anything that came out of &,M'I&64">'9&%'&'>*$4-#"'86"'>/' >)"'#&4-'/I'9&>"*'2*"%%6*"E'FN6>' can’t you do something about $>_H';'&%-"8'>)"'I&@$#ME'FR/0H' >)"M'%&$80'F9"JC"'&%-"8'>)"'

landlord to put in a pressurized system, but he says it’s too "K2",%$C"E'7"'%&$8'>)"'%&@"' &</6>'B">>$,B'&'+*"2#&4"EH';,' the United States, nothing 9/6#8'<"'@/*"'$@2/*>&,>'>)&,' @&-$,B'%6*"'9"')&8'4/,>$,6/6%' &,8'4/2$/6%'&@/6,>%'/I'9&>"*' &>'9)&>"C"*'>"@2"*&>6*"'&,8' 2*"%%6*"'9"'9&,>"8E'QI>"*'&##0' 9"'<6$#8'%)/9"*b%2&%'&,8'<6M' h]iii'<&>)%'>)&>'+>'>9/'2"/2#"' &,8')&C"'@&%%&B$,B0'%9$*#$,B' O">%E' ;'I/6,8'>)"'%&@"'&>>$>68"' in other European countries &%'9"##E';,'&'N"#B$&,'8/*@' &I>"*'&'4/#8'%)/9"*0'@M'I*$",8' informed me, “The heater’s <"",'<*/-",'%$,4"'>)"'<"B$,,$,B' /I'9$,>"*'<*"&-0'&#@/%>'&'@/,>)' &B/E'^/6'O6%>')&C"'>/'B/'I&%>EH' ;'4/6#8,J>')"#2'>)$,-$,B'>)&>'$,' >)"'[E(E0'9"J8')&C"'>)&>'+K"8'

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Photo: Colosseum Rome, Italy by Kayla Schwalbe Taylor Nye is a sophomore majoring in biological anthropology. She studied abroad in Ecuador in the summer of 2010 and goes to Europe every winter break to visit friends. Her favorite place to travel is Mexico.

&I>"*'&'8&M'/*'>9/0'>/2%E'L,"' &I>"*,//,';'9&%'#&M$,B'$,'&'>6<' $,'3*&,4"0'B&:$,B'/6>'>)"'%@&##' 9$,8/9'&>'>)"'%@/-M'g/%B"%' mountains rising from the bare 9)$>"'9$##/9%'&>'.)*$%>@&%>$@"0' 9)",'%688",#M'>)"'8//*'>/' >)"'<&>)*//@'f"9'/2",'>/'@M' friend screaming, “What are you 8/$,B_a'P)"*"J%'9&>"*'2/6*$,B' >)*/6B)'>)"'-$>4)",'4"$#$,BaH' Q,8'$,'?",@&*-0'&'I*$",8' >/#8'@"'>)&>'$I';'4/,>$,6"8' >/'>&-"'#",B>)M'%)/9"*%0' >)"'9&##2&2"*'$,')"*'2//*#M' C",>$#&>"8'B/C"*,@",>b %6<%$8$:"8')/6%$,B'9/6#8' %>&*>'>/'2""#'/IIE';,'>)"'<&4-' /I'@M'@$,80';'>)/6B)>'>)&>'$I';' 4/6#8,J>'>&-"'#/,B'%)/9"*%'$,'&' ,"&*#M'I*""'&2&*>@",>0';J8'@/C"' %/@"9)"*"';'4/6#8E G)",';J@'$,'S6*/2"0' people sometimes forget that ;J@'Q@"*$4&,'<"4&6%"'/I')/9' ;'8*"%%'/*'>)"'2/#$>$4%';'%622/*>' /*'>)"'I&4>'>)&>';'%2"&-'>)"$*' #&,B6&B"E'Q,8'@&M<"';'#$-"'>)&>' &'#$>>#"0'>/'>)$,-';J@'/,"'/I'>)"@E' N6>'$,'>)"'",80',/'@&>>"*')/9' S6*/2"&,';'>)$,-';J@'<"4/@$,B0' ;J##'&#9&M%'%6446@<'>/'&')/>' %/&-'$,'>)"'>6<E';'4&,',"C"*'B$C"'

62'>)$%'#6K6*M0'%/'$,%>"&8';'>*M' ,/>'>/'%2#&%)'&*/6,8'>//'#/68#ME' Q,8'$I'&,';>&#$&,'I*$",8'&%-%'9)M' ;'9&%'$,'>)"*"'%/'#/,B0';J##'O6%>' %&M';'4/6#8,J>'*"&8'>)"'</>>#"%' >/'+B6*"'/6>'9)$4)'/,"'9&%' %)&@2//E'!

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Cheers'>/'9&>4)$,B'>)"'A/%"'N/9#'$,' `&*$%'9$>)'&'<6,4)'/I'N&8B"*'&#6@%EEE&,8' >)",'9&#-$,B'I/*'j')/6*%'<&4-'>/'/6*')/>"#' <"4&6%"'>)"'@">*/'%>&>$/,'%)6>'8/9,'&>' ]'&@E'?/6<#"b4)""*%'>/'N&8B"*'2*$8"'&##' &*/6,8'>)"'9/*#8a'

&,8'&'>"**$<#"'4/6B)E'NM'>)"'>$@"'9"' *"&4)"8'g",$4"0'>)"'$,%$8"%'/I')/>"#'*//@%' )&8'<"4/@"')$%'S6*/2"&,'&8C",>6*"E'Q>' #"&%>0'9)",')"'I"#>'62'>/'$>0'<""*%'9"*"' 4)"&2"*'>)&,'9&>"*E

Cheers to the gypsies on Petrin Hill in `*&B6"E'Q%'@64)'&%';'9$%)';')&8'",>"*"8' M/6*')6>'/I'F&*>H0';'&@'>)&,-I6#'>)&>';'@&8"' $>'<&4-'>/'>)"'(>&>"%'$,'/,"'2$"4"'$,%>"&8E' (/**M'I/*',"C"*'*">6*,$,B'&%';J8'2*/@$%"8E

Cheers'>/'@M'I&>)"*0'&,'6,#64-M' >*&C"#"*E'(#$22$,B'$,'>)"'%)/9"*'&,8' <*"&-$,B')$%'*$<%'$,'`*&B6"'>)*""'8&M%'$,>/' /6*'>*$20')"'>*68B"8'&#/,B'&##'>)"'9&M'>/' g$",,&0'9)"*"')"'4/,>*&4>"8'2,"6@/,$&'

Cheers to dancing to the Macarena, <"$,B'2"*I"4>#M'&44"2>&<#"'$,'4#&%%M'3*",4)' *"%>&6*&,>%E'

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Lunching Llamas Lima, Peru by Amjad Asad

by Charles Godfrey A bit south of Comodoro Rivadavia0'>)"'%/I>b%2/-",0' @$88#"b&B"8'>*64-"*'9)/')&8' B$C",'@"'&'*$8"'&##'>)"'9&M' from the Pampas to the heart of the Patagonia turned off of the coastal Ruta Tres and headed $,#&,80'#"&C$,B'@"'&>'&'^`3' B&%'%>&>$/,E''V">>$,B'8*/22"8' /II'<M'&'8*$C"*'&#9&M%'@&8"' @"'I""#'I*"%)0'&%'$I'"C"*M>)$,B' 9&%'<"B$,,$,B'&B&$,0'/*'"#%"' &%'$I',/>)$,B')&8'"C"*'*"&##M' happened because essentially ;'9&%'$,'>)"'%&@"'2/%$>$/,'&%' <"I/*"0'/,#M'I6*>)"*'8/9,'>)"' */&8E' ';'9",>'$,%$8"0'B/>'&'cafĂŠ &,8'#//-"8'/C"*'&',"9%2&2"*0' >*M$,B'>/'9&*@'62E'';>'9&%'%/@"' regional paper from Provincia Santa Cruz, and nothing 4&6B)>'@M'"M"0'O6%>'&'<6,4)' of bureaucratic intrigues and #/4&#'26<#$4'$,>"*"%>'2$"4"%c'<6>' it added a sense of place to the B&%'%>&>$/,J%'4/*2/*&>"'#&4-b/Ib

2"*%/,&#$>ME';'%>"22"8'/6>%$8"' &,8'%&>'/,'&'46*<0'9&>4)$,B'>)"' 4&*%'&,8'>*64-%'26##'$,'>/'+##'620' &,8'%#/9#M0'4&%6&##M0'$,,/4",>#M' %$8#"8'62'>/'>)"'>*64-"*%0' 2/#$>"#M'$,\6$*$,B'9)"*"'>)"M' @$B)>'<"')"&8"8E'';>'8$8,J>' >&-"'#/,BE''(//,';'9&%')"&8"8' 8/9,'>)"'*/&8'&B&$,0'>)"'%6,' 9&%'<"&>$,B'8/9,'/,'>)"'*/4-M' Atlantic coast, and for a glorious )&#Ib)/6*'>)"')$B)9&M')6BB"8' >)"'%"&'>)&>'%)$@@"*"8'9$>)' <#$,8$,B'f"4-%'/I'#$B)>'/II'$,>/' $,+,$>ME'' 5&>"*0'>)"'%6,'9&%'8$22$,B0' &,8'9"')&8'9/*-"8'/6*' 9&M'$,#&,8'>)*/6B)'>)"'&*$8' desolation of Santa Cruz, the 9$#8,"%%0'>)"'C&%>'6,86#&>$,B' <*/9,bB*"",'#&,8E''P)"*"'9&%' a cluster of pine trees and a I"9'<6$#8$,B%'>)&>'@&*-"8'&,' $,>"*%"4>$/,'9$>)'%/@"'*6*&#' )$B)9&M0'&,8'&%'9"'&22*/&4)"80' &'<#&4-b4#&8'2/#$4"'/I+4"*' 9&C"8'6%'8/9,0'O6%>'&,/>)"*'

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6<$\6$>/6%'4)"4-2/$,>0'<6>'%>$##' &'4&6%"'I/*'%/@"'4/,4"*,E''P)"' >*64-"*0'9)/')&8'<"",',/>)$,B' <6>'I*$",8#M0'"C",'4)6@@M0'B&C"' @"'&',&**/9'B#&,4"'&,8'&%-"8' $I';')&8'papelesc';'&%%6*"8')$@';' 8$80'<6>')"'9&%'6,8"*%>&,8&<#M'&' #$>>#"'/,'"8B"E''' P)"')$B)9&M'2&>*/#'/I+4"*' 9&#-"8'/C"*'>/'>)"'8*$C"*J%b%$8"' 9$,8/9'&,8'B&C"'>)$%'>*64-"*' >)"'%>&,8&*8'%)&-"8/9,E'7"' &%-"8'I/*'>)"'8/46@",>%0'>)"' >*64-"*')&,8"8'>)"@'/C"*0' >)"'4/2'&%-"8'9)&>')"'9&%' >*&,%2/*>$,B0'>)"'>*64-"*'>/#8' him, the cop in a rehearsed &,8')&6B)>M'>/,"0'>)"'>*64-"*J%' responses all practiced and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here am I from? ÂżLos Estados Unidos? Do I have documents? Of 4/6*%"0';'B&C"')$@'@M'2&%%2/*>' &,8')"'#//-"8'$>'/C"*'$,>",>#M0' scrutinizing, scrutinizing me, &,8'&%-"8'@"'9)&>';'9&%'8/$,BE'' Paseando, no mĂĄs, conociendo. ÂżPuedes bajar? P)$%'4"*>&$,#M'9&%,J>'@M'

souvenirs2011[17].indd 17

+*%>'*6,b$,'9$>)'4/2%c'<"$,B' on the road hitching around is &'%6*"+*"'9&M'>/'&>>*&4>'>)"@0' and being a gringo ensures a I"9'%)&-"8/9,%')"*"'&,8'>)"*"E'' !/%>'/I'>)"@'&*"'O6%>'#//-$,B' for something out of place so they can solicit a bribe (again, ;'4/6#8,J>'<#&@"'>)"@YE''P)"' >*64-"*'>/#8'6%')"J8'26##'I/*9&*8' >/'>)"'>*64-'%>/2'I/*'&'I"9' @$,6>"%0'<6>')"'9&%,J>'9&$>$,B' &*/6,8'&##'8&ME'' R/*@&##M'>)$%'9/6#8,J>' <"'&'<$B'8"&#0';'-,"9'>)"*"' 9&%',/>)$,B'>)"M'4/6#8'*"&##M' B$C"'@"')"##'I/*0'&%';'9&%' documented and not carrying &,M>)$,B'$##"B&#0'<6>'$>'9&%' B">>$,B'8&*-0'&,8'B">>$,B'*$8"%' $,'>)"'8&*-'$%',/>'$@2/%%$<#"' <6>'I&*'@/*"'8$I+46#>E''R/>' only is there the problem of C$%$<$#$>M0'<6>'2%M4)/#/B$4&##Mb %2"&-$,B0'2"/2#"'&*"'&'#/>'@/*"' 9&*M'/I'2$4-$,B'62'%>*&,B"*%' &>',$B)>E''G)&>J%'@/*"0'$>'9&%' &'4/#8'9$,>"*'$,'>)"'`&>&B/,$&0' temperatures dropping 2*"4$2$>/6%#M'&>',$B)>0'&,8')"*"';' 9&%0'&'>/>&#'C&B&</,8'8"2",8",>' /,'B&%'%>&>$/,%'I/*'%)"#>"*E''Q##' of this added up to me being really irritated at this policeman for separating me from my ride, 9)$4)'9&%',/>'/,#M'@M'>$4-">'&' I"9')6,8*"8'-$#/@">"*%'%/6>)' <6>'>/'&'9&*@'2#&4"'>/'*"%>'I/*' >)"',"K>'I"9')/6*%E'' P)"'4/2'9&%'&'@/8"*&>"#M' >&##0'>&,0'<#&4-b)&$*"8'@&,'9$>)' &'%>*/,B0'@&%46#$,"'O&9'#$,"0' &,8'>/'<"')/,"%>'9&%'%>*$-$,B#M' B//8b#//-$,BE'7"')&8'>)"'

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

<"')"*"'I/*'&>'#"&%>'>9/')/6*%0'$,'>)$%' condescending tone that made me 9/,8"*'9)M'$>'&#9&M%'%""@%'#$-"'>)"%"' B6M%'&*"'&>'>)"'4/*"'O6%>'<&8'&4>/*%E' ;,%$8"'>)"'%>&>$/,0';'9&%'</@<&*8"8' 9$>)'\6"%>$/,%E''What am I doing so $#"($"*+(,*+-.('/(&,-(%"0&(12#3-.(0*( young? Don’t I have parents, don’t I go to school, am I traveling alone? Where are all my things, is one little backpack really all I’m carrying? Do I have money? (A delicate question, >/'9)$4)';'6%6&##M'&,%9"*"8'/,#M' ",/6B)'>/'"&>0',/>'@/*"Y'P9/'@/*"' /I+4"*%'O/$,"8'6%E''L,"'/I'>)"@'9&%' &'M/6,B"*'B6M0'4#"&*#M'>)"',"9'/,"' /,'>)"'O/<0'9)/'%&>'>)"*"'@/*"b/*b#"%%' \6$">#ME''P)"'/>)"*'9&%'&,'/#8"*'@&,'

A logging boat cruises down the Amazon River. Tl

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9$>)'B*"M')&$*'9)/'I/6,8'>)"' 9)/#"'/*8"&#'\6$>"'&@6%$,B'&,8' &%-"8'@"'&'<6,4)'/I'\6"%>$/,%' about the States and said the >)*""'S,B#$%)'9/*8%')"'-,"9' &,8'>)/6B)>'$>'9&%')$#&*$/6%E''7"' 9&%'2*/<&<#M'>)"'FB//8'4/2H' /I'>)"'>)*""E'¿Fumas? Sí, fumo. They passed me a Marlboro Red and held up a light, graciasE''Q>' #"&%>'>)"M'9"*"'4$C$#E''5&>"*'>)"' young cop brought out Maté and passed it around, bitter, scalding, $,C$B/*&>$,B'&,8'Q*B",>$,"E' P)"'"B/@&,$&4&#'4/2'9)/')&8' <*/6B)>'@"'$,'9&%'8"4$8"8#M' not amused and continued to be confrontational, to my delight, <"4&6%"'>)"'*"%>'/I'6%'9"*"' &#@/%>')&C$,B'&'B//8'>$@"E'' QI>"*';'9&%'>)/*/6B)#M' \6"%>$/,"80'>)"'M/6,B'/I+4"*' 9$>)'>)"'4*"9'46>'<"B&,'&,' F$8",>$+4&>$/,0H'B6$8"8'<M' >)"'#&*B"'&,8'$,b4)&*B"'</%%E'' 7"'&%-"8'@"'I/*'&##'%/*>%'/I' ridiculous information: my parents’ names, my address, @M')$B)'%4)//#E'Q##'/I'>)$%'9&%' 2*/<#"@&>$4'<"4&6%"'/<C$/6%#M' &##'/I'>)$%'8&>&'9&%'$,'S,B#$%)' and these cops really had not one clue about English 2*/,6,4$&>$/,'&,8'%2"##$,BE';')&8' >/'%2"##'/6>'"C"*M'%$,B#"'9/*80' &,8'&I>"*'I/*>Mb+C"'@$,6>"%'/I' struggling through this absurd 2*/4"%%0'>)"'4/2'%)/9"8'@"'>)"' I/*@')"')&8'O6%>'2*$,>"8'/6>0' &,8'$>'9&%'I6##'/I'@$%>&-"%E''7"' )&8'9*$>>",'@M')/@">/9,'/I'(>E' Paul as C. Paul0'/*'F%&Mb2&6#EH'';' >/#8'>)"@'>)$%'9&%'"K&4>#M'*$B)>E ;'>)/6B)>'9"'9"*"'+,&##M'

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>)*/6B)0'<6>'9&%'$,I/*@"8' >)&>'9"'%>$##')&8'>/'8/'huellas digitales0'+,B"*2*$,>%E''P)$%' 9&%'B">>$,B'*$8$46#/6%E'';'9&%' $,%>*64>"8'>/'9&%)'&,8'8*M'@M' )&,8%'9)$#"'>)"'2/#$4"@&,'B/>' >)"'%622#$"%E''QI>"*'8/$,B'%/0' the egotistical cop told me seca, seca, dryer still, and the young cop applied a thin layer of %2"4$&#'$,-'>/'&'%)&*8'/I'<*/-",' B#&%%0'/I'&##'>)$,B%0'9)$4)'8$8' ,/>'@&-"'@"'I""#'&,M'<">>"*' &</6>'>)"'%$>6&>$/,E'' 7"'*"\6"%>"8'@M'+*%>' +,B"*0'&,8';')"#8'$>'/6>'>/' )$@E'FA"#&K0H')"'%&$8'&,8' 9$BB#"8'@M')&,8E';'#">'$>')&,B' loose, and he proceeded to 2*"%%'$>'$,'>)"'%>$4-M'<#&4-' $,-'&,8'/,'>/'&'8*M'2$"4"'/I' 2&2"*E''7"'26%)"8'&'#$>>#"'>//' hard, and the print smeared a bit, to the great dismay of >)"'26%)M'4/2'9)/'\6$4-#M' stepped in and demonstrated, así, suave, así, ¿viste? 7"'9&%' $,>",>'/,'%)/9$,B'>)$%',"9' trainee the proper technique for administering an accurate +,B"*2*$,>'&,8')&8'8"@&,8$,B' %>&,8&*8%E''P)"'>*&$,""'9&%' f6%>"*"80'<"&8%'/I'%9"&>' I/*@$,B'/,')$%'<*/90'&,8')"' 9&%'2*$,>$,B'@M'+,B"*%'C"*M' 4&*"I6##M'"C",'>)/6B)')$%')&,8%' 9"*"'&'#$>>#"'%)&-ME' ;'4/6#8')&C"'8/,"'>)"'9)/#"' thing more easily myself, rather >)&,')&C$,B'>)"@'B*&<'@M' +,B"*>$2%'&,8'>*M'>/'@&,$26#&>"' >)"@0'<6>';'9&%')&C$,B'I6,' 9&>4)$,B'>)"%"'@&4)/'4/2%'

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%>*6BB#"'9$>)'>)$%'8"#$4&>"' 2*/4"%%E''SC"*M'>)$*8'+,B"*0'>)"' 2/9"*b>*$22$,B'>"&4)"*'>//-'/C"*' >/'8"@/,%>*&>"0'&,8';')&8'>/'B$C"' $>'>/')$@0')$%'+,B"*2*$,>%'9"*"' f&9#"%%E''P)"M'@&8"'>9/'%">%' &,8'>/#8'@"'>/'9&%)'@M')&,8%E'' P)"'$,-'9&%'"K>*"@"#M'C$%4/6%' &,8'"C",'&I>"*'>)*""'%4*6<<$,B%' 9$>)'%/&2'&,8'9&>"*'>)"M'%>$##' #//-"8'#$-"'>)"')&,8%'/I'&'4&*' @"4)&,$4'/*'4/&#'@$,"*E'';'B&C"' 62E'' G)",';'4&@"'<&4-0'>)"' @&,$&4&#'4/2'9&%'4/,B*&>6#&>$,B' )$%'>*&$,""'/,')$%'+*%>'+,B"*2*$,>' $8",>$+4&>$/,E'';'9&%'8$%B6%>"8' and amused all at once, and it %688",#M'<"4&@"'4#"&*W';')&8' O6%>'<"",'&'4/,C",$",>'"K46%"' >/'>"&4)'>)$%',"9'&**$C&#'>)"' 2*/4"86*"'/I')/9'>/'$8",>$IM'&' 4*$@$,&#'%6%2"4>E''P)"'2/#$4"'&>' >)"')$B)9&M'4)"4-2/$,>')&8'26>' me through all of that stress and )6@$#$&>$/,'&,8'$,4/,C",$",4"' I/*'&'#$>>#"'8$C"*%$/,'&,8'/,b>)"b O/<'>*&$,$,BE''P)"M'>/#8'@"';'9&%' free to go, and in one last bit of intimidation, the egomaniac cop told me that ahora ves como estĂĄn las cosas en Argentina, >)&>',/9';JC"'%"",')/9'>)$,B%' 9/*-'$,'Q*B",>$,&E'';'>/#8')$@' that sĂ­, ya lo vi0';'&#*"&8M'%&90' <6>';'>)$,-'9"'9"*"'*"I"**$,B'>/' C"*M'8$II"*",>'>)$,B%E''P)"*"'9&%'

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,/'B//8<M"0'>)"M'8$8,J>'"C",' %)/9'@"'>)"'8//*0'&,8';'2$4-"8' 62'@M'#$>>#"'<&4-2&4-'&,8',"&*#M' %>/@2"8'/6>'>)"'8//*'9$>)'&' parting que le vaya bien into the 4/#80'8&*-',$B)>E'' Q%'&,B*M'&%';'9&%'&>'>)&>' @/@",>0'*$8"#"%%'&,8'9&#-$,B' >/9&*8%'&'%/**M'#$>>#"'gasolinera at a crossing in the middle of ,/9)"*"'$,'I*$B$8'`&>&B/,$&0' after some contemplation of the 9)/#"'<$:&**"'%4",&*$/0';')&8' )&#I'&'@$,8'>/'B/'<&4-'&,8'>)&,-' >)/%"'>)*""'#/,"#M')$B)9&M' 2/#$4"@",c'>)"M')&8'>&6B)>'@"' something fundamental about people, about men, and the 9&M'>)&>'2/9"*'4/**62>%E''3*/@' dictators to bored, stranded cops, $>J%'&##'>)"'%&@"E'!

Charles Godfrey went to Latin America last year for eight months looking for a real-life adventure. He spent his time in a Spanish immersion school, volunteering, hitchhiking, and generally bein somewhere between lost and found.

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Cheers >/'*"4"$C$,B'

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9&>"*@"#/,%'I*/@'N"#$:"&,' 4/9</M%0',/>'<"$,B'<$>>",'<M' &'I"*b8"b#&,4"0'+,8$,B'",8#"%%' 4"*&@$4'%)&*8%'&,8',/'O&8"' %-6##%0'%>&,8$,B'/,'>/2'/I'!&M&' temples, being the only ones crazy enough to be at the beach during a tropical storm, and 8$%4/C"*$,B'&'I6>6*"'4&*""*E'

"C",';>&#$&,%'-,/9'>)"'9/*8%' FP)&>J%'Q@/*"EH'

Cheers to the Tube in London for prompting American >/6*$%>%'>/'#&6B)'#$-"'#$>>#"'B$*#%' 9$>)'/,"'%$@2#"'%>&>"@",>W' FP)$%'$%'&'`$44&8$##M'#$,"'%"*C$4"' >/'./4-I/%>"*%EH'

Cheers to Hector, the hottest tour guide in Costa Rica, 9)/'+K"8'/6*'#"&-$,B'<6%' 9$,8/9%0'4&6B)>'2/$%/,'I*/B%0' #"8'6%'>)*/6B)'&'O6,B#"'&,8' F4/4/8*$#"Hb$,I"%>"8'*$C"*0'>&6B)>' %&#%&'8&,4$,B0'&,8'9&%'&'2#&M"*' 2$@2'9$>)'B$*#I*$",8%'&##'/C"*' >)"'4/6,>*ME'

Cheers to >)"'>&K$'8*$C"*%'

my study abroad program, a 3*",4)@&,'9)/')&8'B/>>",')$%' doctorate at the UW-Madison &,8'&#9&M%'>&#-"8'>/'@"'&</6>' the “uneeOn terrAs� in the 46>"%>'&44",>E'

$,'=&@&$4&'9)/'%"*C"'&%' >/6*'B6$8"0'>*&C"#'&B",>'&,8' 4/,4$"*B"'o'@&,&B$,B'>/'>&-"' me to all the best places in R"B*$#'&,8'!/,>"B/'N&M0'9)$#"' simultaneously stopping at all the little shops along the 9&M'X9$>)/6>',""8$,B'>/'<"' &%-"8Y'<"4&6%"'F>)"M'%"##'>)"' <"%>'O"*-'2/*-pO"*-'4)$4-",p )&,8<&B%p%&,8&#%'/,'>)"'$%#&,8' hereEH'P6*,%'/6>'>)"M'*"&##M'will #">'M/6'>)*/6B)'46%>/@%'9$>)' &'4&*C"8'9//8",'%>&>6"'/I'&' ,&-"80'&,&>/@$4&##M'4/**"4>'XM">' &<%6*8#M'8$%2*/2/*>$/,&>"Y'@&,E

Cheers'>/'+,8$,B'/6>'>)"'

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<M'&'9&>"*I&##'$,'.&,&8&EEEL)' Canada, do you really count as abroad?

Cheers to the director of

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Mismatched Metal Maladies by Matt O’Brien

by Matt O’Brien

!$,6>"%'I*/@'%6<6*<&,'2"&4"'/I'@$,8'&,8'>)"'@&O"%>$4'P&<#"' !/6,>&$,0'@$#"%'/I'4/**6B&>"8'@">&#'%)&4-%'/C"*9)"#@'>)"'"M"0' )6BB$,B'"$>)"*'%$8"'/I'>)"')$B)9&MW'>)$%'$%'9)"*"'&'8$%>6*<$,B#M' #&*B"'2*/2/*>$/,'/I'(/6>)'QI*$4&J%'2/26#&>$/,'4&##%')/@"E''3/*'%$K' @/,>)%0';'%>68$"8'$,'.&2"'P/9,'&,8'>*&C"#"8'$,>/'>)"'&8O&4",>' >/9,%)$2'/I'e)&M"#$>%)&'>9$4"'"&4)'9""-'>/'>6>/*E''Q%'>)"'%"&' /I'$*/,'<*/-"'8/9,'$,>/'$,8$C$86&#')/6%"%'&,8'>)"'$,)&<$>&,>%' &%%6@"8'>)"'I&4"%'/I'@M'%>68",>%0'>)$%'C$"9'<"4&@"'8$I+46#>' >/'>/#"*&>"E''P)"%"'9/*8%'"K2*"%%'I*6%>*&>$/,'9$>)'>)"'26<#$4J%' $,>"*&4>$/,'o'<"&>$,B')"&*>%0'>/9,%)$2'>/6*%0'@/@",>&*M'8/,&>$/,0' &,8'6#>$@&>"#M'8$%",B&B"@",>E''P)"'46#@$,&>$/,'4&@"'&%'>)"'G/*#8' .62'8*"9',"&*'&,8'>)"'B/C"*,@",>'O/$,"8'$,'<M'"K>",8$,B'>/$#">*$"%' >/'I*"%)",'>)"'<*"&>)'&,8'4#"&*'>)"'%>6<<#"'I*/@'>)"'>/9,%)$2%0' 2*/C$8$,B'<6>'&'2&>4)9/*-'>/'&'%"C"*"#M'I*&B@",>"8'I&r&8"E

20

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ed al es att en

Mismatched metal maladies `*/>*68"0'%9"##0'",B6#I `"&-%'%">'&B&$,%>'2"&-% Spreading, spanning, spinning No end in sight Relentless rubber rotations Escape, hesitate, chase 3*">I6#0'I"&*I6#'B#&,4"% Through glass, through more G)"*"'9$##'$>'",8_ ."&%"#"%%'4&@"*&'4#$4-% Capture, distance, repeat SM"%'#//-0')"&*>%'<"&> 7&,8%'%>$##0'@/6>)%'M&9, G)",'9$##'$>'",8_ Tacit toothbrush torment Neglect, pause, continue Q'%&,89$4)0'&'%@/-"0'&'A&,8 ./,%4$",4"'4#"&*"80'@/C"'&#/,B 7/9'9$##'$>'",8_ L<C$/6%'/<#$C$/6%'/<%"*C&>$/, (>&*"0'2""*0',"C"*'%"" Outside the fence, the mind N"M/,8'*"&4)0'#/%$,B'%$B)> G$##'$>'"C"*'",8_

Matt O’Brien studied at the University of Cape Town in Cape Town South Africa in the spring of 2010, in the months leading up to South Africa’s hosting of the World Cup.

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22

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by Elizabeth Crawford

The six of us sat under the arbor in the moonlight until "C"*M'#&%>'8">&$#'9&%'$*/,"8' /6>E'56,4)'9&%'2#&,,"8'I/*' &*/6,8'/,"'/J4#/4-'>)"',"K>' 8&ME'(/@"/,"'9/6#8'B/'>/'>)"' @&*-">'"&*#M'$,'>)"'@/*,$,B' 9$>)'>)"'*"C$%"8'%)/22$,B'#$%>c' >)"'4//-$,B'%"\6",4"'9&%' carefully determined because 2/>%0'2&,%'&,8'%>/C"'%2&4"' 9"*"'#$@$>"8E'P)"'-$>4)",'9&%' 2#"&%&,>#M'$8$/%M,4*&>$40'&,8';' #//-"8'I/*9&*8'>/'>)"'4)&##",B"' &)"&8E P)"'@",6W'9$#8'@6%)*//@' &,8'%&II*/,'*$%/>>/'>)&>';' 9/6#8'2*"2&*"'6%$,B'%&II*/,';' brought from home, and then >)"'B/#8",'N*"%%"'4)$4-",'9$>)' /#$C"%'>)&>'A/%"'9/6#8'8/'I/*'

souvenirs2011[17].indd 25

>)"'@&$,'4/6*%"E'P)/%"'9/6#8' <"'I/##/9"8'<M'>)"'*"\6$%$>"' salad course and cheese course, %>$,-M'&,8'6,4>6/6%0'&,8'+,&##M0' 8"%%"*>E'P)"'+*%>0'5"'P&*>"'P&>$,0' >)"'4#&%%$4'62%$8"b8/9,'&22#"' tart made famous by the Tatin %$%>"*%'$,'Tnnq'$,'&'%@&##'>/9,' $,'4",>*&#'3*&,4"E'G"'8"4$8"8'>/' +,$%)'>)"'9)/#"'"C",>'/II'9$>)' &'4)/4/#&>"'4&-"'&,8'&'</>>#"'/I' 4)&@2&B,"E'P)&>'9/6#8'<"'>)"' lunch for the special guests from Toulouse and our friend’s big <$*>)8&M'<&%)E'' ;>'9&%')$%'li>)0'&,8' ",O/M$,B'>)"'4/@2&,M'/I'4#/%"' I*$",8%'9$>)'"K4"##",>'I//8'&,8' &'</6,>M'/I'9$,"'@&8"')$@' >)"')&22$"%>E';,'=6,"'/I'>)"' 2*"C$/6%'M"&*0')"'>*&C"#"8'+*%>' to Paris and then to Toulouse <"I/*"')"'C",>6*"8'"&%>'>/' N":$"*%'/,'>)"'9"%>"*,'"8B"'/I' >)"'!"8$>"**&,"&,0'9)"*"'>)"' madam of the property collected )$@'&>'>)"'4",>*&#'>*&$,'%>&>$/,E' 7"'9&%'8*$C",'8/9,',&**/9' country roads, to small lanes 46>'>)*/6B)'*$4)'B*&2"bB*/9$,B' %/$#'&,8'+,&##M'>)*/6B)'>)"'B&>"%' >/'>)"'9/*,'&,8'*"B&#'9&##"8' 2*/2"*>M'>)&>'Tk'/I'6%'9/6#8' @&-"'/6*'9&M'>/'>)"'I/##/9$,B' =6,"E'

23

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24

souvenirs2011[17].indd 26

;,'P/6#/6%"0')"'9&%')/%>"8' <M'>)"'2&*",>%'/I'&'3*",4)' student he befriended at the R"9'^/*-'[,$C"*%$>M0'9)"*"')"' 9/*-"8E'7"'8$%46%%"8'>)$%'#6,4)' 9$>)'6%'$,>"*@$>>",>#M'86*$,B'>)"' @/,>)%'2*"4"8$,B'/6*'&**$C&#0' &,8'9"'C$C$8#M'6,8"*%>//8')$%' desire to return the hospitality they extended him during his %)/*>'%>&M'$,'>)"$*')/@"E'P)"' ",>)6%$&%@'9"')&8'I/*'>)"' 2*"2&*&>$/,%'9&%'/6*'B$I>c'>)"' uncomplicated addition of the 4&-"'&,8'4)&@2&B,"'9/6#8'<"'&' %6*2*$%"'<"+>>$,B'>)"'B",>#","%%' /I'>)"'8&M%'9"'9"*"'%2",8$,B' >/B">)"*E' P)"'8&M%'86*$,B'>)"'9""-' $,'?/@&$,"'8"'N"&6%"O/6*' 6,I/#8"8'$,'&'2&>>"*,E'(/@"' 9/6#8'"#"4>'>/'8*$C"'>/'>)"' @&*-">'$,'>)"'"&*#M'@/*,$,B' I/*'<&-"*M0'9)$#"'/>)"*%'9"*"' %)/9"*$,B0'*"&8$,B0'8/$,B' laundry or dishes, rearranging f/9"*%'/*'@/*,$,B'%>*">4)"%E' QI>"*'<*"&-I&%>0'9)$#"'#6,4)' 2#&,%'9"*"'4*"&>"80'>)"'+*%>' </>>#"'/I'9$,"'/I'>)"'8&M'9&%' 6,4/*-"8E'G"'8*&,-'9$,"'<M' >)"'%)/22$,B'4&*>'I6##E';>'9&%' C"*M'4)"&2'&,8'C"*M'#/4&#E' ;,%$8"0'/6*'-$>4)",'#//-"8'#$-"' &,';@2*"%%$/,$%>'/$#b/,b4&,C&%' )&,B$,B'$,'&'@6%"6@'$,'`&*$%E' P)"'9&##%'9"*"'%>644/'&,8'>)"' f//*'9&%'%@//>)0'"&*>)b>/,"8' 4"*&@$4'>$#"'&,8'>)"'#$B)>$,B'9&%' C"*M'%/I>E'(@&##'%>/,"'9$,8/9%' #$-"'2/*>)/#"%'2*/C$8"8'C$"9%' /I'8$%>&,>'C$,"M&*8%'&,8'>)"' cathedral on top of the nearby >/9,E'

After each long repast, the group dispersed and settled $,>/'&4>$C$>$"%'>)&>'2*/C$8"8'&,' $,>"*#68"'/I'\6$">'&,8'&#/,","%%E' (/@"'/I'6%'%9&@'&,8'%6,,"8' /*'*"&8'&,8'"C",>6&##M'8*/22"8' /II'I/*'&',&2E';'>//-'#/,B'9&#-%' /,'>)"',&**/9'#&,"%'$,'>)"' $,>",%"'"&*#M'%6@@"*'9&*@>)0' breathing deeply the aroma of 9$#8')"*<%'&,8'f/9"*%'*"#"&%$,B' >)"$*',"9b<68'%4",>%E''P)"'/,#M' %$B,'/I')6@&,$>M'9&%'>)"'/,"' /*'>9/'2&$*%'/I'@",'4/,C"*%$,B' /C"*'/#8'B*&2"'C$,"%E'G)",';' *">6*,"80'"C"*M/,"'9&%'&9&-"' &,8'*"4#/>)"8E';'%)//-'/II'@M' %/#$>68"0'*"O/$,"8'>)"'B*/620' &,8'9$>)$,'@/@",>%0'9$,"' f/9"8'&,8'%"*C$,B'2#&>>"*%'9"*"' #&M"*"8'9$>)'%#$4"%'/I'>/@&>/"%0' 4)""%"'*"@,&,>%0'4//-"8' 2/>&>/"%'&,8'/#$C"%'9)$#"'>)"' #/,B'>&<#"'9&%'9$2"8'4#"&,'/I' >9$B%'&,8',"9%2&2"*%0'4&@"*&%' &,8'<//-%E'G)&>'#&M'&)"&8'9"*"' hours of languorous dining 9$>)'4/,C"*%&>$/,'*$4)'9$>)' I&@$#$&*$>ME P)"',"K>'8&M'4&@"'\6$4-#M' &,8';'&9/-"'>/'>)"'%/6,8'/I'#/9' C/$4"%'&,8'I//>%>"2%'<"#/9'@M' <"8*//@'9$,8/9E'P)"'4&*'8//*%' opened and snapped shut on /6*'gG'*",>&#E';>'@/>/*"8'/C"*' 4/6*>M&*8'%>/,"%0'2&%>'>)"'T]>)b century barn and Grandmere’s Tn>)b4",>6*M'C$##&0'&,8'$8#"8' 9)$#"'>)"'I&8"80'>"&#b<#6"'$*/,' B&>"'%#/9#M'/2","8'#$-"'&'#&*B"' 9/@&,'B"%>6*$,B'>/')"*'<*//8' >/'*6,'&#/,B0'9)$#"'*"&%%6*$,B' >)"@'%)"J8'<"'>)"*"'9)",'>)"M'

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souvenirs2011[17].indd 27

>)"'>&<#"'9)"*"'"&4)'I/6,8'&' %"&>E'G$>)'/6*'I*$",80'>)"'>)*""' <"B&,'>)"$*'9&$>'I/*'#6,4)E' ;,'>)"'-$>4)",0'@M'@$,80' )&,8%'&,8'I"">'@/C"8'>/'>)"' pace of a 64-piece marching <&,8E';'/*B&,$:"8'>)"'/>)"*%0'&,8' >)",0'%$,-$,B'$,>/'@M'+*%>'>&%-0' began rolling out pastry dough %/'%/I>'&,8'4*"&@M'9$>)'<&*"#M' enough gluten to hold the mass >/B">)"*E';,'I*6%>*&>$/,0';'B#&,4"8' 62'&,8'/6>'>)"'3*",4)'8//*%' 9)$4)'#">'$,'>)"'/,#M'%6<%>&,>$&#' #$B)>E';>'9&%'@$8b8&M'&,8'>)"' f//*'>$#"%'9"*"'&#*"&8M'9&*@' 6,8"*'@M'<&*"'I"">'&,8';',/>$4"8' >)&>'"C"*M</8M'9&%'<6%M'"$>)"*' 9/*-$,B'/,'#6,4)'/*'9&$>$,B'I/*' #6,4)E'3/*'&,'$,%>&,>0';'9&>4)"8' /6*'I*$",8'&>'>)"'>&<#"'9$>)'>)"' B6"%>%'&,8'-,"9')"'9&%'&>'/,4"' trying to allay our pressure and @&-"'"C"*M/,"'I""#'4/@I/*>&<#"' 9)$#"'9"'4/,>$,6"8'>/'@/6,>'>)"' #6,4)b>$@"'@"&#E' SC",>6&##M'9"'>//-'/6*'%"&>%' at the table under the arbor and %#/9#M0'>)"'4/6*%"%'*/##"8'/6>' /I'>)"'-$>4)",E'!$4)"#$,"'&,8';' 9"*"'%"&>"8',"K>'>/'"&4)'/>)"*E' ($,-$,B'$,>/'@M'%"&>0';'%&$8'>/',/' one in particular: “Nothing stays >)"'%&@"0H'>/'9)$4)'%)"'*"2#$"8W' FR/>)$,B'%>&M%'>)"'%&@"EH QI>"*'%"C"*&#')/6*%0'5M,,' and Rose scurried into the -$>4)",'>/'B*&<'>)"'4)&@2&B,"' &,8'4)/4/#&>"'4&-"'&,8'4&**$"8' $>'<&4-'/6>%$8"'9$>)'4&,8#"%' f$4-"*$,B'$,'>)"'%6@@"*'%6,0' %/'>)&>'>)"'@/@",>'9)$4)' described our being so bound >/B">)"*0'4/6#8'<"'I6#+##"8E'!

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L,4"'&'<&8B"*0'&#9&M%'&'<&8B"*a'R"&*#M'ji'M"&*%'&I>"*'&>>",8$,B' [G'!&8$%/,0'S#$:&<">)'.*&9I/*8'%>$##'+,8%'9&M%'>/'%>&M'$,'>/64)' 9$>)'>)"'4&@26%'4/@@6,$>ME'Souvenirs is happy to publish her piece, &,8'9"'&%-"8')"*'>/'9*$>"'&'%)/*>'2$"4"'&</6>')"*'#$I"'&,8'>*&C"#%'&I>"*' 4/##"B"E

I was a UW-Madison student in the early 80’s. Young, confused and not too academically oriented. The alternate program, in my young mind, was the road. Even prior to those years, just following high school, I spent one year living on a kibbutz in Israel. It was there I met people from many countries. We worked and played together in the arid desert climate, surrounded by camels and Bedouins, the nomadic Arabic people. I was comfortable with the exotic and unknown. I continued working, studying some and traveling throughout the 80’s. In the 90’s, I did many things. I got married, had two children, %/'0,-4(+5(6/4-"!"#46#&-( degree and got hooked on the culinary industry, which fed my desire for more &"#7-2)(8(4*7-(,-#4(%"0&('/&*( classic French cuisine. I would fantasize about all the markets and chefs that I read about, and decided I would go to Paris. At the same time, I was working at a small

spice store in Milwaukee, owned by two wonderful people, who offered me the freedom to explore the +#!/'%3-/&(9*"24(*$(01'3-0)( Slowly, the two worlds began to coincide. I spent a decade returning to Paris every year, not unlike many cooks, to taste and explore the country that fed me my life, so to speak. In 2010, I spent some time '/(:'3'25.(9'&,(&,-(01-3'%3( goal of tasting the food of a country so revered for its simplistic cooking style. Currently, I teach cooking in several venues in the Midwest. I bring all my years of experience as a traveler to my classes, with an emphasis on social responsibility in our food choices. I am a traveler. When the desire to explore strikes, I think a day spent walking, or a drive to a town unvisited in 5*6"(*9/("-!'*/.(0#&'0%-0(&,-( human desire for something new and inspiring. And, nature is the great, cheap tourist attraction, in my mind.

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C

Cityscape of houses atop a hill in OiaE A view out of the back of a rickshaw on a city street.

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by Grayce Forsythe

;'&@'<#""8$,B'$,%$8"' I*/@'>)"'4*&4-"8'%-6##'/,'>)"' street >)&>'>)"'/,b#//-$,B'#/4&#%')&C"' oozing at their feet &,8';'&@'<#""8$,B0' my brain is crying, the man on the bicycle in the road $%'8M$,B'&,8')$%'4*&4-"8'%-6##' is letting his brain oxidize and >6*,'<#&4-'&%')$%'</8MJ%',&>6*"' >*$"%'>/')"&#'>)"'>$@"'<&4-E' L6*'B6$#>M'<6%'8*$C"*'$%'B/,"bb' &'#$I"'I/*'&'#$I"'$,'>)$%'#&,8'$%'#&9 &,8'$>'%""@%'#$-"'>)"'&6>)/*$>$"%' 9$##',"C"*'4/@"E' ;I'>)"'#/4&#%'B">')$@'<"I/*"'>)"' 2/#$4"'&**$C"' )"'&#%/'9$##'<"'8/,"E' ;,'*"&#$>M'&I>"*'&')&#Ib)/6*'

>)"M')&C"'",>"*"8'>)"'%4","0' but at that point it doesn’t really @&>>"*E P)"'%6**/6,8$,B'O6,B#"'$%' %9"#>"*$,B' &,8'$>'8/"%',/>)$,B'>/'2*"C",>'>)"' <#""8$,BE' Goddess Luna is pulling and constricting the tides of my $,%$8"%E' P)"'I6##'@//,'2*/C$8"%'>)"'%>&B"' lighting, >/'@&-"'%6*"'>)&>'9"'4&,'%""0' that here in the tropics >)"*"'$%',/>'O6%>'B*"",' <6>'@64)'*"8'&%'9"##E' 7"*'%/$#%'&*"'%>&$,"8'<*/9,' 9$>)')$%'<#//8' and that of millions of his countrymen %/';')&C"'<"",'>/#80'&,8'%/';')&C"' felt, &,8'%/';')&C"'%"",E' P)"'8$II"*",4"'<">9"",'@"'&,8' them $%'>)&>';')&C"')&8'>)"'2*$C$#"B"' >/',/>')&C"'<"",'I/*4"8'>/' desensitize myself to the same "K>",>'&%'>)"M')&C"'>/'>)"'2"/2#"' 9)/'9"')&C"',/9'</>)'9&>4)"8' <#""8'>/'>)"$*'8"&>)E !M'2*$C$#"B"8'%/I>'#$I"'&##/9%'@"' to silently cry for this stranger of &'@&,'9)/'>)"M0'<M'@M'&B"0'4&,' 9&>4)'2"*$%)'&,8',/>'O6%>',/>'4*M' <6>'4&,'#&6B)E'

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;>'$%'&'4/2$,B'@"4)&,$%@'>)"M' )&C"'&4\6$*"80 &,8';'&@',/>'%6*"'$I'$>'$%'<"&6>$I6#' or horrifying but it belongs to them as my un4&##/6%"8'9)$>"')&,8%'<"#/,B'>/' @"E' R"K>'9""-';'</&*8'&'2#&,"' <6>'&'2&*>'/I'@"'9$##',"C"*'*"&##M' #"&C"E' ;'I""#'%/',&$C"E'

Grayce Forsythe is a freshman who backpacked in South-east Asia during the spring of 2010.

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Hierve el agua Oaxaca, Mexico by Kels1ey Sohrweide

by Peter Allen March 24, 2010 ;'&@'%$>>$,B'&#/,"'$,'&' 4&Is'>*M$,B'>/'-$##'>)"',"K>'I/6*' )/6*%'6,>$#'@M'<6%'>/'!&**&-"%)' #"&C"%E';'8/,J>'-,/9'>)"',&@"'/I' >)"'>/9,';J@'$,'/*'9)&>'M/6J8' 4&##'>)$%'*"B$/,'/I'!/*/44/E' G)&>';'8/'-,/9'$%'>)&>';J@' &</6>'&,')/6*'/*'>9/'I*/@'>)"' (&)&*&'8"%"*>'%/@"9)"*"',"&*' Q#B"*$&0'<6>';'4/6#8,J>'2/$,>'$>' /6>'>/'M/6'/,'&'@&2'$I';')&8'%64)' &'#6K6*ME'R/'/,"'6,8"*%>&,8%' me here – all communication $%'</8M'#&,B6&B"0'9)$4)'9/*-%' &##'*$B)>'6,#"%%'M/6'9&,>'>/' <6M'>/$#">'2&2"*E';'>*M'<*/-",' Spanish, pero un burro sabe mas EspañolE'R/'/,"'%2"&-%' (2&,$%)'$,'(/6>)"*,'!/*/44/E' ;I';'-,"9'3*",4)0'Q*&<$4'/*' N"*<"*'&'4/,C"*%&>$/,'9$>)'&' #/4&#'4/6#8'<"'2/%%$<#"E'!M'I/6*' compatriots left me here alone $,'>)$%'86%>M'(&)&*&,'C$##&B"'I/*' &,'"&*#M'f$B)>')/@"'&,8';J@'

going Han Solo in the middle /I'!/*/44/E'P)"'2#&,'$%'>/' )"&8'9"%>'/C"*'>)"'7$B)'Q>#&%' !/6,>&$,%'>/'!&**&-"%)0'>)",'>/' >)"'4/&%>&#'>/9,'/I'S%%&/6&$*&' &,8'<&4-'>/'3":'I/*'@M'f$B)>' )/@"'o'%"C",')6,8*"8'@$#"%'$,' I/6*'8&M%E' 3*/@'9)"*"';'%$>';')&C"'&' #/C"#M'C$"9'/I'&'2&*-'$,'I*/,>' /I'>)"'<6%'%>&>$/,0'9)"*"'I/6*' little girls play in the shade /I'2&#@'>*""%E'P)"M'9&#-"8' up to my table earlier and stole my pen right from my )&,8E';'9&%'4&6B)>'/II'B6&*8' by their adorable smiles, not expecting a gang of kleptosE'';' %""'>)&>'>)"MJC"'%,&22"8'>)"' 2",'$,'>9/'<M'&*B6$,B'/C"*'$>E' There’s a numbing sensation /,'@M'>/,B6"'I*/@'>)"'%9"">' 4)&@/@$#"'>"&E';>J%'2"*I"4>'/6>' /,'>)"'2&>$/c'"&*#M'%2*$,B'$%'&' brilliant time of year to come to R/*>)9"%>'QI*$4&E

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SE'NE'G)$>"'$%'-""2$,B'@"' company on the café table, >)/6B)';'8/,J>'-,/9'9)&>')$%' /2$,$/,'9/6#8'<"'/I'>)"')&%)' %>&$,%'/,')$%'2&B"%c')"J%',/' V/,:/E'G)&>'9/6#8'!*E'G)$>"' >)$,-'&</6>')$%'4/##"4>"8'"%%&M%' 6%"8'>/'*/##'O/$,>%'&4*/%%'jii' miles of mountains and desert? G/6#8')"'%4/#8'@"'/*'O/$,'@"_' P)"'9&$>"*'9$>)'>)"'<$##'8$%*62>%' @M'>)$,-$,BE''R6@<"*%'&*"'&' 6,$C"*%&#'#&,B6&B"E'Q%';'*"&4)' to pay for my meal, red Sahara %&,8'%2$##%'/6>'@M'2/4-">'/,>/' >)"'4/,4*">"'6,8"*'@M'4)&$*E ^"%>"*8&M'#$,B"*%'$,'@M' <*&$,E'S$B)>"",')/6*%'&B/';'9&%' on top of a camel riding through >)"'(&)&*&,',$B)>'/,'&',"9' @//,E'P)"'%>&*%'8*$22"8'8/9,' #$-"'<6>>"*0')&C$,B'&#@/%>'>)*""' dimensions as they spiraled &*/6,8'>)"'R/*>)'(>&*E'(/@"/,"' )&8'%2$##"8'>)"'N$B'?$22"*c'>)"' !$#-M'G&M'%2#&%)"8'&4*/%%'&,' &%>*/,/@$4&#'4/<&#>'4&,C&%E' Millions and millions of >9$,-#$,B'8/>%'/I'#$B)>'9$,-"8' *"8'/*'<#6"'&</C"'@"0'>)"$*' 8$II"*",>'4/#/*%'8$%4"*,$<#"'9$>)' &',&-"8'"M"E'()//>$,B'%>&*%' 9"*"'4/,%>&,>'4"#"%>$&#'C$%$>/*%0' %/@"'&*"'%/'$@2*"%%$C"'>)"M' #//-"8'#$-"'+*"9/*-%';'9&>4)"8' &%'&'-$8'&>'G&*,"*'`&*-'/,'>)"' 3/6*>)'/I'=6#ME''P)"'%2&4"b */4-%'9/6#8'>"&*'&4*/%%'>)"' %-M'>*&$#$,B'&'@&B,$+4",>'*"8' 2#6@"'6,>$#'+,&##M'"K2#/8$,B' into a thousand glimmering %)&*8%E'P)"'+C"'/I'6%'%9&M"8' <&4-'&,8'I/*>)0'4)$,%'$,'>)"'&$*' &%'9"'B&:"8'$,'%$#",>'&9"'&>'>)"'

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4/%@$4'O"9"#*M'&</C"E The train of camels tied >/B">)"*'9&%'#"8'<M'&'N"*<"*' B6$8"',&@"8'Q<86#0'9)/' 9&#-"8'$,'I*/,>'9$>)'&'I&$,>' f&%)#$B)>0'9$,8$,B'6%'>)*/6B)' C&##"M%'&,8'2"&-%'/I'%&,8E';' 9&%'&>'>)"'I*/,>'/I'>)"'\6"6"' I/*'@/%>'/I'>)"'O/6*,"ME'N")$,8' @"';')&8'&',"9'I*$",8',&@"8' Winfred, Spencer’s camel that 9&#-"8'&'#$>>#"'\6$4-"*'%/')$%' )"&8'9/6#8'<"'9$>)$,'2">>$,B' 8$%>&,4"E'7"',6::#"8'@M'#"B' 9)","C"*';'9/6#8'B">'>//' 8$%>*&4>"8'<M'>)"'<$B'%)/9'$,'>)"' %-ME';')&8',&@"8'@M'/9,'4&@"#' S8B&*E'7"')&,8#"8')$@%"#I' f6$8#M'&4*/%%'>)"'TiibI//>b>&##' %&,8'86,"%E'.&@"#%')&C"'&' %>*&,B"'</,"'*$B)>'9)"*"'M/6' sit on them that spreads your &%%'4)""-%'9$8"E'P)"'4&@"#')&%' #$C"8'I/*'",/6B)'>$@"'&#/,B%$8"' @&,'>/')&C"'"C/#C"8'&',$4"' <6>>b*"%>E'3/*'&'@&,'$>J%',/>' uncomfortable, but the ridge @&-"%'&'4&@"#J%'*)M>)@'&'#$>>#"' &9-9&*8E';,'>)"'F8*$C"*J%H'%"&>0' ;'@&,&B"8'>/'%>/2'>)"'9)/#"' train by tapping my foot against Edgar’s side to the rhythm of ($B6*'A/%'/,'@M')"&82)/,"%E'''' 5&>"*'&#/,B'>)"'>*"4-0';' /*'S8B&*'o'I&6#>'9&%',"C"*' 8">"*@$,"8'o'%">'>)"'9)/#"' 4/,C/M'/II'9&#-$,B'$,>/'>)"' 8"%"*>'&I>"*'(4/>>'B/>'8/9,'>/' >&-"'&'>*$2'>/'>)"'(&)&*&,'>/$#">E' Q<86#'*&,'>/'4&>4)'6%0'<6>';' @&8"'$>'&')&2)&:&*8'B">&9&M0' accidentally egging Edgar into a faster pace, calling out “doesn’t )"'%>/2'9)",';'-$4-a_H'S8B&*'

jT

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/*'@/*"'#$-"#M'Q<86#'2*/<&<#M' >)/6B)>';'9&%'<"$,B'&'8&@,' I//#E'G"')&8',/'*"&%/,'>/'*6%)' >)$%'O/6*,"M'$,>/'>)"'8$&@/,8' %-ME After an hour and a half of %&,80'9$,8'&,8'%-M0'9"'*"&4)"8' 4&@2'&,8'9"*"'>*"&>"8'>/'&' delectable three-course meal /I'%/620'<*"&8'&,8'>&,B$,"E' Q<86#'%)/9"8'6%'4&*8'>*$4-%'&,8' 9"'>&6B)>')$@'&,8')$%'I*$",8%' )/9'>/'2#&M'>)"'B&@"'N6##%)$>E' After some rousing rounds and >)*""'</>>#"%'/I'9$,"0'6%'R/*>)' Q@"*$4&,%'4&@"'62'9$>)'>)"' hair-brained scheme to climb a %&,8'86,"E'Q<86#'2/$,>"8'6%'>/' >)"'UiibI//>b>&##'@/6,8'/I'%&,8' *$B)>',"K>'>/'4&@2E'[2/,'I6*>)"*' *"f"4>$/,';'>)$,-'$>'@$B)>')&C"' <"",'&'O/-"E ;I'M/6')&C"'"C"*'>*$"8'>/' 4#$@<'&'%&,8'86,"0'M/6'-,/9' >)&>'$>J%'#$-"'9&#-$,B'62'&,' "%4&#&>/*'B/$,B'8/9,E'^/6*' I"">'%#$8"'<&4-')&#I'&%'I&*'&%' M/6'@&,&B"8'>/'%>"2'62E'P/' @&-"'@&>>"*%'9/*%"'9"')&8'>)"' dippy idea of running straight up the middle instead of the B",>#M'%#/22$,B'%$8"%E'R$--$'&,8' .&$>#M,'@&8"'$>')&#I9&M0'<6>' (2",4"*0'&,8'(4/>>'&,8';'2*"%%"8' /,E';'%"2&*&>"8'I*/@'>)"'>9/' </M%'%#/BB$,B'%>*&$B)>'629&*8' I&C/*$,B'&'kUb8"B*""'&,B#"'>)&>' I/##/9"8'>)"'9$,8E'P)"'I/*4"' &>'@M'<&4-'26%)"8'@"'I/*9&*8' &,8'8/9,'>/'&##'I/6*%E';'<"B&,'>/' %4*&@<#"'62'>/9&*8%'>)"'%2$,"' #$-"'>)"'@/,-"M%'$,'>)"'Q>#&%' !/6,>&$,%'8$8'I/*'/6*'2"&,6>%E Upon reaching the spine the

9$,8'2$4-"8'62'8*&@&>$4&##M0' -,/4-$,B'@"'/C"*'>)"'*$8B"' &,8'%",>'@"'%2*&9#$,B'%2*"&8b "&B#"'/,'>)"'/>)"*'%$8"E'(&,8' I/6,8'$>%'9&M'>/'$@2/%%$<#"' 2#&4"%E'SM"%0')&$*0'>"">)0'#6,B%0' <6>>'4*&4-0'>)*/&>c',/>)$,B'9&%' %&I"E'P)"'&$*'9&%'>)$,',"&*'>)"' >/20'4&6%$,B'@"'>/'>&-"'"C"*' "K2/,",>$&#'&@/6,>%'/I'<*"&-%' to admire my hard-fought, but %#6BB$%)'2*/B*"%%E'!M'%)/"%' 9"*"'+##"8'>/'>)"'<*$@0'9)$4)' &88"8'%$B,$+4&,>'9"$B)>E'[,&<#"' to abandon them in the shifting %&,8%0';'>*68B"8'/,9&*8%E ;'>//-'&,'"K>",8"8'<*"&-'>/' #//-'<&4-'8/9,'>)"'2*"C$/6%' I/6*b)6,8*"8'&,8'+I>M'I"">'&,8' ,/>$4"8';'4/6#8,J>'%""'>)"' lights from the tents at the </>>/@'&,M@/*"E'P)"'86,"J%' 46*C"'9&%'@&%%$C"'",/6B)'>/' <#/4-'/6>'&,M'B#/9'I*/@'4&@2' 4/@2#">"#ME';'>6*,"8'>/'#//-' <&4-'62'>)"'@/6,8'&,8'%&9' my goal silhouetted against a \6$#>'/I'6,"&*>)#M'4&,8#"%E'Q%';' %&>'>)"*"0'@6%4#"%'$,f&@"8'&,8' 9)"":$,B'$,'%&,80'&'%)//>$,B' %>&*'46>'&4*/%%'9)"*"'>)"'86,"J%' >$2'@">'>)"'%-ME'P&-$,B'$>'&%'&' %$B,'I*/@'>)"'B/8%0';'>//-'&' deep breath and charged the %6@@$>0'+*%>'/,'>9/'#"B%0'>)",' >/'I/6*0'&,8'"C",>6&##M'8/9,'>/' @M'<"##ME'R/>'>)"'@/%>'C&#$&,>' @&,,"*'/I'4/,\6"%>c';'%,&-"8' @M'9&M'>/'C$4>/*ME L,4"';'*"&4)"8'>)"'2"&-' ;'f$22"8'/,>/'@M'<&4-E';'8$8' @M'<"%>'>/'#//-'&>'>)"')"&C",%' 8"%2$>"'>)"'9$,8J%'%&,8<#&%>%E' Q%';'%>&*"8'62'&>'>)"'N$B'?$22"*'

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balanced upright on its handle, ;'<"B&,'>/'#&6B)E';>'%>&*>"8'&%' &'%@&##'4)64-#"0'<6>'$>'B*"9' little by little into a deep rolling roar from the gut and "C",>6&##M'>6*,"8'$,>/'&'#/,B' 8*&9,'/6>')/9#E';'4/6#8'I""#'>)"' M"##'*"%/,&>"'$,'@M'4)"%>'&%';' &*4)"8'@M'<&4-'>/'%\6"":"'/6>' "C"*M'#&%>'<$>'/I'&$*'I*/@'@M' 8$&2)*&B@E'Q%';'<*"&>)"'<&4-'$,' @/*"'%&,80'&,'6,<*"&-&<#"'B*$,' +K"8'$>%"#I'+*@#M'>/'@M'I&4"E';' 4/6#8,J>'B">'&,M')$B)"*E';'9&%' 2"*4)"8'/,'>/2'/I'>)"'9/*#8E (2",4"*'&,8'(4/>>'O/$,"8' @"'&I>"*'&</6>'>",'@$,6>"%E'P)"' kUb@$,6>"'9&*'629&*8%')&8'#"I>' >)"'>)*""'/I'6%'"K)&6%>"8E'G"'%&>' $,'&'*/9'&>'>)"'%6@@$>'9&>4)$,B' >/9,%'>9$,-#"'@$#"%'&,8'@$#"%' &9&M'/,'>)"'I&*'%$8"'/I'>)"'86,"E' (4/>>'>/#8'6%'>)"'#$B)>%'9"*"' I*/@'C$##&B"%'$,'Q#B"*$&E'';'>//-' off my shoes and emptied my /9,'#$>>#"'%&,8'86,"E'3/*'&'B//8' TU'@$,6>"%'9"'%6*C"M"8'>)"' impossible scene in breathless &8@$*&>$/,'/I'9)&>'9"')&8' &4)$"C"8E'G"'*"&4)"8'&</C"' 9)&>'9&%'2/%%$<#"E'Q</C"'>*$C$&#' 4/,4"*,%0'&</C"'#/C"0'&</C"' 2&$,0'&</C"'V/80'&</C"'&,M>)$,B' ;JC"'"C"*'-,/9,E';'86B'@M' toes in the sand and pulled my hoodie tight until only my eyes 9"*"'#"I>'6,4/C"*"8E'SC",>6&##M0' /6*'@6%4#"%'%>$##'<6*,$,B0'9"' >6*,"8'>/'8"%4",8'<&4-'>/'S&*>)E ;I'9&#-$,B'62'&'%&,8'86,"' $%'#$-"'&'(>&$*@&%>"*'I*/@')"##0' 9&#-$,B'8/9,'$%'>)"'#$-"'>&-$,B' a stroll on a cloud, each step 46%)$/,"8'&,8'"K&BB"*&>"8E'

souvenirs2011[17].indd 35

;>J%'&'@&*4)'>)&>'9/6#8,J>'<"' out of place in the Ministry of ($##M'G&#-%E'G$>)'"&4)'I//>I&##' @M'%>*$8"'#",B>)","8'6,>$#';' <*/-"'/6>'$,>/'&'*6,E'(//,';'9&%' fM$,B0'>&-$,B'>",%'/I'I"">'9$>)' "C"*M'#"&2E'G"'>6@<#"8'8/9,' the hill, laughing and sliding $,'>)"'4//#'%&,8E';'9&%'>)"'+*%>' 8/9,0'>)"'/>)"*%'%>$##'%)/6>$,B' &,8'9)//2$,B'62'>)"')$##E'';' %>6@<#"8'/C"*'>/'>)"',"&*"%>' >",>'9$>)'&'#$B)>'/,E'Q%';'<#$,-"8' dumbly into the brightness, ;'*"&#$:"8'>)"*"'9&%'&'M/6,B' N"*<"*'9"')&8'2#&M"8'4&*8%' 9$>)'"&*#$"*'%>&,8$,B'$,'I*/,>'/I' >)"'",>*&,4"E';')&8'@&8"'$>'<&4-' from such great heights to solid B*/6,8E'7"'@/>$/,"8'I/*'@"'>/' I/##/9'&%';'%2/-"'$,'%2#$,>"*"8' Spanish sobre las estrellasE'QI>"*' *"&#$:$,B';'9&%,J>'@&-$,B'@64)' %",%"';'#//-"8'62'&,8',/>$4"8' >)&>')"')&8'#"8'@"'>/'@M'/9,' >",>E';'>)&,-"8')$@'&,8'8*&BB"8' myself inside, promptly falling &%#""20'"&B"*'I/*'Q<86#'>/'9&-"' 6%'>/'9&>4)'>)"'%6,'4#$@<'I*/@' $>%'%&,8M'(&)&*&,'<"8E'!

Peter Allen, a Madison native, is a Senior who studied abroad in the Netherlands last spring. He traveled widely during these seven months, making it to 14 different countries across Europe and Africa.

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Colorful spice tins in Marrakech, also known as the red city, because all of the buildings are made of rich-colored red clay.

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