SURDYK’S
LIQUOR & CHEESE SHOP
THE MAGAZINE OF FINE WINE, SPIRITS, AND LIVING
THE SPIRIT OF SCOTLAND LIVES IN EACH SIP OF THE COUNTRY’S NATIVE DRINK
$3.99
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CHILE’S CHARMING CARMENÈRE BURGUNDIES ON A BUDGET CLASSIC COCKTAILS: WHAT’S OLD IS NEW AGAIN
Cheers! UpComing
Fun with bubbles! events
B
ubbles aren’t just for bathtubs and Lawrence Welk. Around here, they mean instant party. And there’s no better time than the holidays to get your bubble on. This holiday season, Surdyk’s is practically bursting with bubbles, which means there’s something for everyone. And, as Surdyk’s resident mixologist, I’d like to share some fabulous fizzy formulas from traditional to trendy. Let’s start with the all-time classic, Champagne, the only bubbly worthy of the moniker if it’s grown in the Champagne region of France and produced under specific appellation guidelines—variety of grape, crop yield, alcohol content, etc. Champagne dates back to the 17th century when it was associated with royalty, but Surdyk’s has incredible authentic Champagne for far less than a king’s ransom. And while I never mix Champagne with anything but a glass flute, I have some wonderful pairings for its more malleable counterpart, sparkling wine. Sparkling wine has lots of different personalities from sweet to dry, and it loves to mingle. Try Scharffenberger Brut with our Brillat-Savarin Brie and experience the amazing things those bubbles do as they cut through the fatty goodness of this creamy, salty cheese. And if you prefer a sweeter variety of bubbly, pair Toad Hollow Risque Sparkling with St. Agur Blue. This blue is a bit sweeter and creamier than most, but still packs enough punch to keep up with the oh-so-effervescent Toad
Hollow. The possibilities are endless with sparkling wine and it’s always the life of the party. Then there’s Prosecco—very “now” and rightly so. This versatile, festive Italian bubbly is my go-to for mixing. Its tiny bubbles accent but never interfere with other ingredients. Its perfect ratio of sweet-to-dry allows it to blend with just about anything. Add Valdoro Prosecco to orange juice for the best Mimosa ever. Or mix La Marca Prosecco with San Pellegrino Blood Orange. The bold color of this cocktail alone will put it on your best-of list. And for something extra special, toss some crystallized ginger (available in our Cheese Shop) into the Bocelli Prosecco, add a splash of cranberry, and try not to love it. Prosecco just makes everything better. Bring a bottle to your next holiday soirée and you will make new friends. (No, I can’t substantiate that claim, but it’s worth a try, right?) And now for something completely different—sake. That’s right, sake. It’s my specialty. I have a whole cooler at Surdyk’s dedicated to this very ancient, but forward-thinking bubbly. Yes, bubbly. Many sakes come in sparkling varieties, and they are like nothing you have tried—and why I think they’re out of this world. Try Mio Sparkling Sake with St. Germain Liqueur and see if you don’t develop a new holiday favorite. Of course, if bubbles aren’t your thing, stop into Surdyk’s for help from any of our expert wine and spirits consultants. We’ve got options galore to make all your holiday parties pop. Cheers! Melissa Surdyk
Visit www.surdyks.com for more details.
Surdyk’s Holiday Store Hours Day before Thanksgiving (November 21): 9am-10pm (open late) Thanksgiving (November 22): Closed Christmas Eve (December 24): 9am-5pm (closing early) Christmas (December 25): Closed New Year’s Eve (December 31): 9am-10pm (open late) New Year’s Day (January 1): Closed
Surdyk’s Annual Holiday Sale
November 29–December 15 Selected wines, spirits, beers, and much more on sale. Stock up for your holiday parties and gift-giving. Earn double Heart Healthy points on Tuesdays during the sale! View the catalog and shop online: www.surdyks.com
Surdyk’s Sparkling Wine Thursdays December 6 and 13 5–9 p.m. (At the store)
Sample a wide variety of sparkling wines —just in time for holiday entertaining! Visit www.surdyks.com for more details.
Surdyk’s Annual Cordial Fair
December 7–8 11 a.m. – 7:30 p.m. (At the store) Sample more than 40 different spirits and liqueurs. All holiday gift sets will be featured.
Winter Wine Classes 2013 Classes begin in January and run through February. Classes are held on Mondays and Tuesdays. Class fees vary depending upon the class. Please visit www.surdyks.com for more information.
Surdyk’s
The Liquor Store & Cheese Shop at East Hennepin and University Ave. 303 East Hennepin Avenue • Minneapolis, MN 55414 Mon.–Thur. 9 a.m.–9 p.m.
Hours:
Fri.– Sat. 9 a.m.–10 p.m.
Always closed on Sundays www.surdyks.com
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WINe TALK
EXPLORING WASHINGTON By ANdrEW HALL, Surdyk's Wine Department Manager
R
ecently I had the good fortune to join our friends from the Washington State Wine Commission on a five-day tour and tasting through the wine country of their great state. I have to say, it was pretty interesting stuff! Having never been to Washington before, for any reason, I figured I was in for a treat. We visited too many vineyards, wineries, and tasting rooms to give a full accounting here, but there are a few observations about this wine country that I think our customers would benefit from knowing, so I will try to condense them into a few big points. First, geographically the grape growing part of Washington is a large area dominated by the Cascade Mountains to the west and the Columbia River, which snakes through the entire area. The Cascades basically soak up all the rain from systems that roll in off the Pacific, leaving little moisture for the vast high plain on the other side of the peaks. The Columbia River, which runs through this vast plain, carves a deep channel through some of the tightest rock you’ll find anywhere. Vast quantities of water run through the river, but little of it soaks through the soils to the surrounding lands. In the post-World War II period, large construction projects, including the Grand Coulee Dam (which was really a pre-war project), created an infrastructure for irrigating vast stretches of land that were left dry by the rains, and not fed by the river. Agriculture boomed, but wine grapes were not along for the ride. Apples, cherries, table and juice grapes, wheat, hops—you name the crop—and these folks were growing it. Land ownership and water rights have become pretty 2 drinks
www.surdyks.com
tightly held over the years, so when the wine craze hit Washington, wineries had to convince farmers to grow vinifera grapes in order to have anything at all. Some small vineyards popped up on plots that seem, in hindsight, to have been strangely chosen. One of the oldest vineyards in the state is an unassuming 5-acre plot that sits in a residential area surrounded by houses! Only in the last 20-30 years have wine grapes become profitable and successful enough to merit aggressive investment and expansion on the part of farmers. Very few Washington wineries own their own vineyards. There are vast tracts of land that are still used for other agriculture, and wine grapes will remain a relatively small proportion of Washington’s agricultural production. But the situation is an amazing one as most vineyards enjoy ideal conditions for making fine wines: dry clear days with loads of sunshine, water that is available as needed, and little risk of phylloxera, molds, or other pests that damage vineyards in more moist environments. As long as they avoid hard freezes and get good warm temps during the summer, these farmers and vineyard managers will be able to deliver top quality grapes to their wine-makers every year. This is a relatively young wine region quickly on the make. I tasted loads of wines, some available to us already, some not quite yet, that put a lot of $100+ wines from famous regions to shame. Wines that are priced at $40-$70 today soon will be commanding international pricing pressure and demand that may put them out of our reach. These wines have a place at your table and in your cellar! Think seriously about picking up some of these tremendous offerings, for yourself and for your gifts, while they are still within reach.
WINES TO TRY Sparkman Kingpin Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Chris Sparkman’s flagship wine, only available at Surdyk’s, is a hard charging, high alcohol mouthful of wine that completely wins me over, even though I am rarely looking for a wine of this description. Smooth, rich, dense but classy all the way, this is how these “big” wines are supposed to taste and feel. $74.99 Andrew Will Ciel du Cheval 2007 This winery, named for Chris Camarda’s two sons (yup, Andrew and Will), is one of the original garagistes from Washington. Now Chris owns some land and makes wines from the best vineyards across the state, including this small plot on Red Mountain. A dense chewy wine for the cellar, you’ll not be disappointed with 5-10 years of age. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. $59.99 DeLille D2 2009 A Bordeaux blend from one of Washington’s vineyard pioneers, this is actually their “second wine” named for the main road that runs up the Medoc in Bordeaux, France. A delicious and approachable red that will also reward patience. $47.99 Januik Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Here is another delicious, affordable, age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon from a guy (Mike Januik) who has been making wine from these vineyards for decades. Silky soft with a lovely overlay of new oak, this Cab is both seductively flashy and yet retains a dark serious note on the finish. $32.99
CONTENTS
FEATURES 14 20 24 30
PHOTO BY SALMA KHALIL, RECIPE PAGE 33
10
CHARMING CARMENÈRE
THE NEW OLD BAR
AFFORDABLE BURGUNDIES
KING OF SCOTS
A NIP AT DAWN
This Chilean grape variety has finally found its glory on the sundrenched slopes of the Andes Mountains.
Classic cocktails remind us how richly-flavored liquors can create the well-balanced drink.
You can find worldfamous Pinot Noir and Chardonnay without spending a fortune.
The spirit of Scotland lives in each sip of the country’s native drink.
Make the most of your brunch with these eyeopening drink recipes and food pairings.
BY STEVE MCDONAGH AND DAN SMITH
BY ROGER MORRIS
BY SARAH GODDARD
BY MARY SUBIALKA
BY PETER JOSEPH
DEPARTMENTS 5 FIRST ROUND Malt masters, wines that rock, a mixologist’s treasure trove, a Scotch for the ages, flavors of an island paradise, and more. 8 MIXOLOGY The Escape from Alcatraz is an American cocktail straight from the Roaring ‘20s. 9 LIQUID ASSETS Dress your bottles for gift-giving success. The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse. Printed with soy-based inks.
“If you drink, don’t drive. Don’t even putt.” — DEAN MARTIN ®
® THE MAGAZINE OF FINE WINE, SPIRITS, AND LIVING
PRESIDENT AND PUBLISHER STEVE FOX EDITOR JOEL SCHETTLER ART DIRECTOR MANDY FINDERS SENIOR EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION SERVICES LAURIE ETCHEN
Drinks advocates the responsible and moderate consumption of alcoholic beverages.
Volume 10, Number 4 Drinks magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media Group, Inc., 600 US Trust Building, 730 Second Ave. South, Mpls., MN 55402. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Drinks is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media Group, Inc. Printed in the U.S.A. Submissions: Greenspring Media Group assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. Visit our website at www.drinksmag.com for guidelines on how to submit inquiries or contact our editors.
www.drinksmag.com drinks 3
FIRST ROUND [ WHAT’S NEW IN THE WORLD OF WINE & SPIRITS ]
FIRST ROUND OUND UND MALT MASTERS As a fifth-generation, family-owned distillery, Glenfiddich has perfected its innovative casking techniques. To put those skills on full display in the United States, the single malt Scotch whisky is releasing only 18,000 bottles of its Glenfiddich Malt Master’s Edition. It’s the first to adopt the double maturation process, delivering a whisky that is complex in taste from flavors imparted from two different woods: Sherry and Refill Bourbon casks. The result is a rich, ruby-red whisky with a complex nose that intermingles damp earth and whisky-soaked wood with a deep vanilla and a touch of smoky embers. Initially the whisky offers a sherbet zing but then slowly delivers a spicy, fruity character of plum and cherry with hints of toasted almond and, of all notes, wedding cake.
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FIRST ROUND
Wines that Rock With a power chord of unique marketing, Mendocino Wine Company has produced a series of wines inspired by the spirit of rock ‘n roll. Wines That Rock is a collection of five unique custom wines created to pair with legendary artists and their timeless albums: The Police Synchronicity Red Wine Blend 2008, Rolling Stones Forty Licks Merlot 2010, Grateful Dead Steal Your Face Red Wine Blend 2010, Pink Floyd The Dark Side of the Moon Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, and Woodstock Chardonnay 2010. Each wine is a reflection of winemaker Mark Beaman’s interpretation of the music itself, right down to the grapes selected for each varietal and blend. Produced at a carbon neutral winery with 100 percent green energy, Wines That Rock also utilizes earth-friendly packaging and sustainable wine-growing practices to support the community. A portion of the proceeds from every bottle supports the T.J. Martell Foundation, the music industry’s largest charitable foundation to fund leukemia, cancer, and AIDS research.
Kahlúa’s New Look
Alfred Cointreau (right), a sixth generation member of the Cointreau family, with Richard Lambert, a global brand ambassador for the brand.
A Mixologist’s Treasure Trove It’s a collection any serious bartender would dream about: long outof-print cocktail books from a bygone era complete with all their lost mixology secrets. But this is a history lesson dream come true. The French orange liqueur producer Cointreau has assembled and digitized a collection of rare, first editions dating as far back as 1862. Some of the classics contained in this rare collection have been reprinted in recent years, but many titles are lost to rare book collectors’ libraries. Twenty books in the collection date from the 1800s, including titles such as Snake Bites or Something and When It’s Cocktail Time in Cuba. As a result of Prohibition, most of the collection's books from the 1920s were largely published outside the United States. This fall, the collection was made available to enthusiasts by appointment during traveling exhibitions to New York, Dallas, San Francisco, and Los Angeles. At press, Cointreau had yet to decide on how to make the library accessible online. 6 drinks
A familiar brand began sporting a new look this past fall. The coffee liqueur Kahlúa has updated its bottle to provide a more premium and modern look to its brand. “Our goal through this visual upgrade is to incorporate subtle changes that enhance the appeal of the brand and reinvigorate it, without taking away from the iconic character that is Kahlúa,” says Michelle Sanders, brand director. The changes are subtle. The bottle shape features a more “confident” posture. The metallic twist-off cap and logotype both feature a sharper look. The base brand incorporates a bold signature “Delicioso” banner and bold “Rum and Coffee Liqueur,” while flavors such as Cinnamon Spice, French Vanilla, Mocha, and Hazelnut have been designed with a warmer “coffeehouse feel.” Watch for vibrant, festive limited edition bottles for the holidays.
Flavors of an Island Paradise Since its introduction into the market two years ago, Voli Light Vodkas have become very popular around the world. This past fall, the producer of the first line of low calorie vodkas introduced its sixth flavor: Voli Mango Coconut Fusion, a natural blend of mango and coconut flavors with a subtle hint of pineapple. Named from blending the words vodka and light, Voli also produces vodka in five other flavors: Original, Raspberry Cocoa, Espresso Vanilla, Orange Vanilla, and Lemon. Created in Cognac, France, Voli Light Vodkas feature a blend of multi-distilled wheat vodka, pure spring water, natural flavors, and electrolytes to produce a product that is low in calories. MIAMI MOJITO
ISLAND OASIS
1 B⁄c ounces Voli Mango Coconut 3 lime wedges Mango chunks 1 pack Stevia Sweetener 6 mint leaves Top with soda water
1 B⁄c ounces Voli Mango Coconut 6 blueberries 2 strawberries 1 ounce Sweet and Sour Lite 1 ounce light orange juice
Build all ingredients over ice in a highball glass, garnish with mint and mango.
Muddle fruit, add all ingredients together in a highball glass, and stir. Garnish with skewered blueberries and strawberry.
Remy and Robin This holiday season, Remy Martin Cognac gets a glowing makeover inspired by the music of artist Robin Thicke. The Remy Martin V.S.O.P. limited edition bottle features a bright holiday red design, complete with dancing musical notes and an old-fashioned singer’s microphone. Smartphone users will be able to obtain exclusive content through the use of a QR code on every gift box. “We are extremely excited to continue our partnership with Robin Thicke as a creative consultant for Remy Martin V.S.O.P,” says Emma Media, senior brand director for Remy Martin. The 750 ml bottle will be available across the United States.
One for the Scotch Ages It was perhaps that once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for the connoisseur of fine single malt Scotch whisky. This past October, Bowmore placed two bottles of Bowmore 1957 up for auction, one of the world’s most collectible single malt whiskies. Distilled in 1957 and bottled in 2011, this Scotch had been aging in the company’s legendary No. 1 vaults for 54 years. It is the oldest Bowmore as well as the oldest Islay single malt ever released to the public. Bottles No. 1 and No. 2 were offered at public auction at the auction house Bonhams in Edinburgh on October 10, and in New York City on October 28, each with a minimum reserve set at approximately $155,000 per bottle. Proceeds from both sales will be donated to five Scottish charities. The spirit spent 43 years in a second fill sherry cask, and then was moved to a second fill bourbon cask in 2000. The resulting spirit is a symphony of aromas and flavors never before experienced. Today, only 12 bottles of the Bowmore 1957 have been created. Each bottle has been crafted with the same care as its contents, hand-blown by renowned artists Brodie Nairn and Nichola Burns into the shape of waves crashing against the nearby sea walls. Atop each bottle is a platinum neck collar, hand engraved with the bottle number and spirit strength, along with a platinum stopper hand-crafted by Hamilton & Inches, Warrant Holder to the Queen. Two bottles will be retained for the Morrison Bowmore archives; the remaining eight bottles will be available for purchase solely at the Bowmore Distillery on Islay. drinks 7
mixology Escape from Alcatraz BY the editors of imbibe magazine, authors of the american cocktail
Escape from Alcatraz 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 3 orange slices, plus 1 additional slice for garnish B⁄c ounce fresh lemon juice 1 ounce Cointreau 2 ounces Templeton rye whiskey Ice cubes Muddle the ginger, orange slices, and lemon juice in a cocktail shaker. Add the Cointreau and whiskey and shake well with ice. Double strain into an ice-filled Old Fashioned glass and garnish with the orange slice.
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Image and recipe excerpted from the american cocktail by the editors of imbibe magazine. Photo by Sheri giblin.
C
hicago was home to gangster Al Capone, who led a Prohibition-era alcohol smuggling and bootlegging ring and later went to prison at Alcatraz in San Francisco for tax evasion. Capone’s favorite whiskey was said to be Templeton rye from Iowa, which was known during the time as the “good stuff.” Legend has it that the whiskey even made it past the walls of Alcatraz. While the infamous gangster is long gone, Templeton lives on to this day, and this recipe from Chicago bartender Lynn House brings the story of Capone back to life.
LIQUID ASSETS
TIE ONE ON GO BEYOND BORING GIFT-WRAP THIS YEAR AND DRESS UP ANY BOTTLE FOR EVERY SPECIAL OCCASION.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF BOTSKIS
Botskis Bottle Ties, thematic collection of decorative ties featuring celebratory greetings for special events such as anniversaries, birthdays, and holidays, $10, www.botskis.com.
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after a somewhat inauspicious beginning in Chile, the Carmenère grape variety has finally found its glory in the sun-drenched vineyards maipo Valley
on the slopes of the andes mountains.
CaChapoal Valley ColChaGua Valley
Carmenère grows with gusto here,
rapel Valley
making wines that
CenTral Valley
are soft, velvety, and very easy-drinking—it’s no wonder Chile has embraced this native french grape as its own. By sarah Goddard Chile
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Carmenère is a very old French grape (some believe it may even be Biturica, an ancient Roman variety), and was once very important in the famous Bordeaux region, where it was prized for its deep color and rich flavor. Carmenère (pronounced carmen-EHR) was widely planted in the Médoc, the area containing some of Bordeaux’s most famous appellations, and was a key component in many of Bordeaux’s finest clarets. It is still considered one of the six red grape varieties of Bordeaux and, to this day, it is allowed in the Bordeaux blend. Unfortunately, Carmenère was very difficult to work with in France—it had difficulty ripening in Bordeaux’s cooler climate and was susceptible to disease and coulure (poor fruit set) resulting in low yields. The phylloxera louse arrived in Europe in the late 1800s, devastating most of the continent’s vineyards. Carmenère did not take well to being grafted onto North American rootstocks, so it was abandoned when the vineyards were re-planted, and almost entirely disappeared from France’s viticultural landscape. Luckily, just prior to the phylloxera disaster in Europe, many Bordeaux varieties, including Carmenère, were introduced to Chile. The vines thrived on their own rootstocks (Chile has never had a phylloxera infestation) and took to the soil and the climate as if they had always been there. For many years, it was thought that Chile produced a Merlot that was unique to anywhere else in the world, and these darkcolored, smoky, spicy “Chilean Merlots” became very popular. Finally, in 1994, a French ampelographer, Jean-Michel Boursiquot, discovered that this “Chilean Merlot” was, in fact, Carmenère. It turns out that a high proportion of what they believed to be Merlot vines was actually the similar looking Carmenère. drinks 11
Abundant sunshine, exceptional soils, plenty of irrigation water, diverse terroirs, and a long growing season are all reasons why Chile has become known as a “viticultural paradise.” This long, narrow country is geographically isolated due to several natural barriers— the Atacama Desert to the north, the Andes Mountains to the east, the Patagonian Ice Fields to the south, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. These barriers are also the reason why Chile is the only major wine-producing country in the world to be completely untouched by phylloxera and downy mildew, two plagues that Carmenère is especially susceptible to. The icy Humboldt Current coming up from Antarctica is a major cooling factor, and the Pacific Ocean off the coast of Chile is actually very cold, giving the western section of the country a cooler climate with more cloud cover and fog. The chilly ocean air is partially blocked by the coastal mountain ranges, but some does penetrate inland through the many river valleys carved into the rock. As one moves farther inland, the temperature and amount of sunshine increases. The Central Valley in Chile is a long, narrow piece of land located between the coastal mountain range and the Andes Mountains. It is fertile and green, and parts of it are very warm. The Maipo, Rapel, Cachapoal, and Colchagua Valleys are acclaimed appellations within the Central Valley that provide near-perfect growing conditions for Carmenère and are names to look out for on wine labels.
Carmenère is a tricky grape to grow, but Chilean viticulturists have been quick to figure it out. Once they realized that it was Carmenère, and not Merlot, they were dealing with, grape-growers changed their farming techniques in order to play on the strengths of the Carmenère grape. Carmenère dislikes rain or irrigation between winter and harvest, and water at this time only exacerbates the green pepper and herbaceous characteristics typical of the grape when not fully ripe. Poor soils can also contribute to the green notes. Carmenère requires a very long growing season with lots of sunshine and warm temperatures. It typically ripens some two to three weeks after Merlot. However, if grown in too hot a site, the acid drops, the alcohol rises, and the wines become unbalanced.
Wine made with Carmenère comes in a range of styles from relatively light and fruity to very rich and full-bodied. Typically, it is dark ruby in color, almost inky it’s so dark. Sometimes it has hints of red fruit, but most are full of sweet black fruit aromas. Blackberry, black plum, and black currant aromas are common, as are tobacco, grilled meat, bittersweet chocolate, coffee, smoke, and spice, lots of spice. Carmenère has round tannins and relatively low acid. As previously mentioned, it can also have an herbaceous, green pepper flavor, especially if the grapes are picked before they are fully ripe. Carmenère may be made into single varietal wines or it may be blended with a number of other varieties to create delicious wines full of complexity. It is commonly blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but other grapes may also be used. Since the 1990s, Chile has been in the process of reinventing itself from being known as a producer of inexpensive “Coca-Cola” wines, to the producer of premium and super-premium wines showing unique diversity—and this is also reflected in the styles and prices of Carmenère. The price of a bottle of Carmenère may range from cheap and cheerful to super-premium and costly, so there is bound to be a tasty Carmenère for any budget and occasion, from a casual pizza dinner to a formal three-course meal.
The many styles of Carmenère and its complexity of flavors make it very versatile with a range of foods, especially savory and earthy dishes, and even those with a bit of spice. Try Carmenère with grilled steak, pasta with a tomato-based meat sauce, roasted bell peppers, grilled vegetables, hamburgers, Moroccan lamb, and even Indian curry or Mexican mole.
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Clockwise from Top Left: Photos Courtesy of Matetic Vineyards (3), ViÑa La Rosa, Cremaschi Furlotti, and Anakena Wines
Sarah Goddard loves wine, so much so that she left a secure career as an elementary school teacher to pursue her crazy passion. She is now a Certified Sommelier, holds the WSET Diploma, and currently works as a Sommelier, Wine Writer, Instructor, Consultant, and avid Blogger (www.sommelierscribbler.com) in Toronto. Just don’t ask her what her favorite wine is—it’ll be a very long answer.
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t new
Old Bar classic cocktails can remind us how comPleX and richly-flavored liQuors can create the well-balanced drink.
by steve mcdonagh 14 drinks
A dan smith
Prohibition may have lost the war against alcohol, but it beat the hell out of the cocktail.
Eastern Sin opposite page: Albino Grasshopper (recipes on page 22)
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Basics: Ingredients Prohibition may have lost the war against alcohol, but it beat the hell out of the cocktail. Aged liquor was in short supply after Prohibition. To combat this “drought,” liquor companies realized they could stretch out the limited whiskey supply by blending it with non-aged, neutral grain spirits. Enter modern blended whiskey—light on flavor, easy to pair with club soda or juice in a rocks tumbler. Capitalizing on that success, marketers introduced a push for quickly produced, triple-distilled vodka. As Americans grew accustomed to this smooth and unflavored wallflower of a spirit, our palate began to shift. We lost our taste for the complex and richly flavored liquors that make up the well-balanced cocktail. The decline continued with the jet age of the 1960s and the proliferation of “modern” pre-bottled cocktails. In the words of my Heublein’s Club pamphlet, these ready-made concoctions make “home-made cocktails seem amateurish!” They also had the creepiest little barman mascot you’ve ever seen. Honestly, he’d put you off drinking altogether. And the 1970s were no help, either. They added nails to the cocktail coffin in the form of imitation flavored sour mixes and concentrated juices sold in little plastic fruits. Adding insult to injury was a company that made freeze-dried cocktails in a pouch: “Sure Shot Instant Cocktails. Just add water!” In 1978, BusinessWeek said “booze in a packet will soon be the Kool-Aid of the liquor industry.” “Look at the advantages,” the director of marketing told the Milwaukee Journal, “You could throw a couple of pouches in your fishing box!” A pouch of whiskey sours in my tackle box? You’d better believe I’ve been trying desperately to get my hands on one, and I don’t even fish. None of this is accepted in a pre-Prohibition cocktail. Fresh and flavorful ingredients are key to the enjoyment of a proper libation.
Juices Use only fresh lemons and limes. Unless the cocktail recipe calls for sodium benzoate, sodium metabisulfite, or sodium sulfite (check those “real citrus juice” labels), there is no reason not to use an honest piece of citrus in your drink. If your fruit of choice is out of season, try to purchase a container of fresh squeezed. I do that most frequently with blood orange juice, as blood oranges can be difficult to find. continued on page 25
ALBINO GRASSHOPPER Yield: 1 Cocktail
1 B⁄c ounces light rum B⁄c ounce white crème de cacao 1 ounce half-and-half B⁄c ounce mint syrup B⁄e teaspoon Benedictine Fresh mint (for garnish) Combine the ingredients in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake very well. Strain into a chilled coupe and serve garnished with fresh mint.
EASTERN SIN Yield: 1 Cocktail
1 B⁄c ounces Scotch whisky 1 ounce Cherry Heering B⁄c ounce orange liqueur B⁄c ounce sweet vermouth B⁄c ounce fresh pineapple juice Fresh pineapple wedge (for garnish) Combine the ingredients in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake well. Strain into a chilled coupe and serve garnished with a pineapple wedge.
GRAPEFRUIT SMASH Yield: 1 Cocktail
B⁄e cup Ruby Red grapefruit, peeled and roughly chopped Fresh mint B⁄c ounce simple syrup 2 ounces cachaça In a sturdy glass or cocktail shaker, muddle the grapefruit and 4 or 5 leaves of mint with the simple syrup. Add the cachaça and ice; shake well. Strain into a double rocks glass filled with ice and serve garnished with a sprig of fresh mint.
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Fresh and flavorful ingredients are key to the enjoyment of a proper libation.
Grapefruit Smash
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Don’t forget what we say about “eating with our eyes first.”
Grilled Peach Frappe
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GRILLED PEACH FRAPPE Yield: 1 Cocktail This is a spin on a recipe included in Waring’s 1947 Pick Ups and Cheer Ups from the Waring Blendor (yes, they spelled blender with an “o”). Not to upset you, but in a misguided attempt to trick children into eating meat, Waring had a liquid Liver Milkshake included among his recipes.
1 large peach 3 ounces Southern Comfort B⁄c ounce fresh lime juice B⁄c ounce fresh lemon juice 2 teaspoons raw sugar B⁄e teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 cup cracked ice Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Cut the peach in half, remove the pit, and place the peach halves ungreased on a hot grill. Grill until deep checkerboard hash marks appear for the best flavor. Remove the peach halves from the grill and place them on a baking sheet in the oven for approximately 10 minutes or until a knife easily pierces the skin. Allow to cool and remove the skin with peeler. Combine the peach and the remaining ingredients in a blender and blend on high for approximately 10–20 seconds, or until smooth. Serve immediately in chilled glasses garnished with slices of fresh peach.
continued from page 22
Garnishes Don’t forget what we say about “eating with our eyes first.” Garnishes dress up a naked cocktail and give the guest an idea of what’s in store. But don’t be fooled into thinking of them as mere decorations. The brine from olives and the essential oils of citrus twists are important flavoring agents. • Olives Does it sound geeky to say I love to shop for olives? There is a trove of thrilling jarred olives stuffed with everything from anchovy to jalapeños, and the accompanying brine makes for my favorite flavoring in Dirty Martinis. I recommend buying some fat Spanish green olives in brine. Keep in mind that you don’t want to add oil-cured olives to a drink unless you’re hoping for an oil slick to make its way across the surface of your martini. One major caveat: jarred blue cheese olives are, as a rule and in a word, nasty. The blue cheese is usually gummy and has lost its tang by wallowing for an unknown time in the brine. The simple answer is to stuff your own. Use a toothpick to stuff a small rectangle of pungent blue cheese back into the empty cavity of a pitted olive. I’ve heard tell that these olives will keep for several weeks, but frankly, if you have any left over you’ve done it wrong. • Cherries I get it; every now and then that plump red balloon of a maraschino cherry adds a jaunty little party to your glass. And although I won’t take issue with the occasional look for garnish’s sake (or that bar trick where you tie the stem into a knot with your tongue, because that’s just cool), they are filled with artificial dyes and packed in unnaturally flavored almond sugar syrup. A much better way of preserving the cherries is with brandy, and making your own isn’t as difficult as you may think.
Reprinted with permission from The New Old Bar: Classic Cocktails and Salty Snacks from The Hearty Boys by Steve McDonagh and Dan Smith. Photography by Steve McDonagh. © November 2012 Agate Midway.
• Herbs Keep herbs fresh and bright by laying them between layers of moist paper towel. At our bar we always leave bunches of fresh herbs in a bar glass with a little water, as you would with fresh cut flowers.
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THE WORLD’S MOST-FAMOUS PINOT NOIRS AND CHARDONNAYS COME FROM THIS FRENCH WINE REGION. BUT YOU CAN AFFORD TO BUY THEM—IF YOU KNOW WHAT TO LOOK FOR.
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For centuries, the Burgundy region in eastern France has garnered a reputation for producing some of the world’s most-rounded, most-luscious, most-long-lasting red and white table wines—and rightly so. Using mainly just two grapes—Pinot Noir for the reds, Chardonnay for the whites—Burgundian winemakers today continue to craft some of the best (and often most-expensive) wines from grapes grown along a string of low hills that range from south to north. They are called the Côte d’Or—“the golden slope”—and they face the morning sun across the Saône River Valley of eastern France. Even the names of the wines made here—such as Meursault, Montrachet, Romanée-Conti, Clos de Vougeot, Chambertin—conjure up images of tradition, quality, and richness. But don’t let all this scare you off. You can drink very good, often excellent, red and white Burgundies on a budget—and can do it now. The fact is that many wines that cost $50 or $100 or more, which are intended to improve in the bottle for years and last for decades, may be only slightly better in quality than those that cost $20 or less and are ready to drink now. Finding them all depends on knowing what to look for and who to ask for help. But first, a one-minute overview of the region: Wines in France are generally named after the places from which they come—a larger region or a town in most cases, but often from a specific vineyard at the higher-quality and higher-price levels. Burgundy, which is large and spread out, was once its own kingdom, and today makes wines from the town of Mâcon in the south to the town of Chablis more than 100 miles away to the northwest—all considered part of greater Burgundy. In the middle is the Côte d’Or—broken up into the Côte de Beaune (south) and Côte de Nuits (north). Here, a combination of soil, weather, and climate—what the French call terroir—make these the prized vineyards of Burgundy. Some grow Pinot Noir, some grow Chardonnay, and a few grow both. But there are two other important regions that also grow both grapes and that lie immediately to the south of the Côte d’Or—first, Côte Chalonnaise and then the Mâconnais. Immediately west of, and running parallel to, the Cote d’Or— whose largest town and winemaking hub is the ancient village of Beaune—lie the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits and the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune. Here a series of vineyards operate mostly at higher elevations, and the producers often grow a variety of grapes in addition to the classic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. To the northwest is the Chablis region—by itself legendary as a producer of Chardonnay-based white wines called Chablis. Many wines from Chablis are expensive, but there are also bargains to be had here. Finally, around Chablis are other, smaller regions that make good wines, such as Auxerre and Vézelay, but relatively few of these show up in the United States.
Look for Values in Lesser Regions Like real estate, bargains can be found if you get away from the exclusive neighborhoods. In Burgundy that means getting away from the Côte d’Or. The best place to look is Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais. Their wines are widely available, they generally represent excellent value, and they are very good table wines for drinking now. 22 drinks
Wines here can either be listed by the grape (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), by the overall region, or by the specific town or commune in which the grapes are grown. In the Chalonnaise, three popular village names or appellations widely available in America are Rully, Mercurey, and Givry. In theory, they are a step up from wines labeled by the larger region, and that is generally the case in fact. Mercurey Pinot Noirs have the reputation of being as good as some Pinots from the Côte d’Or, which is a good thing as two-thirds of the red wine in the Chalonnaise is made here. “We pick our grapes by hand and keep them for 12 months in barrels,” says Sylvie Joussier of Domaine de l’Evêché, explaining the care that many local producers give to their wines. Reds made from the three hectares—about seven and a half acres of grapes—on their family estate in Mercurey are sold in the United States as well as France. The Mâconnais is most famous for crisp yet generous Chardonnays produced from its limestone soil, particularly Pouilly-Fuissé, long famous on country club wine lists. A Pouilly can be quite good, although the prices can also be relatively high. St. Véran is a good alternative, as can be the lesser-known Pouillys—Pouilly Vinzelles and Pouilly-Loche. Also look for Viré-Clessé and Mâcon-Lugny. The Hautes Côtes de Beaune and the Hautes Côtes de Nuits are making increasingly good wines these days for two reasons. One is that global warming is making for riper grapes and hence richer, more-complex wines in these higher vineyards. Second is that there is a limited amount of vineyards along the Côte d’Or—and the land there is also expensive—so more winemakers from Beaune are looking to the hills for grapes for their bargain wines. With Chablis, search for values among wines just labeled “Chablis” or “Petit Chablis.”
Look for Négociant Wines Négociants, also known as shippers, are wine merchants who produce large quantities of wine from their own vineyards and from grapes they buy—“negotiate”—from other grape growers. The best négociants, such as Joseph Drouhin, Louis Latour, Louis Jadot, Leroy and Leflaive, own properties in some of the great vineyards and make great wines from them. But they make affordable wine as well. “We try to make our Drouhin Laforêt Bougogne Chardonnay the same from vintage to vintage, one opportunity I have to blend wines, mostly from grapes grown in the Mâcon area,” says Véronique Drouhin-Boss, winemaker for all the Drouhin bottles. “We also have strong position with grapes from St. Véran and Rully.” One reason shippers’ wines are such values is that they are large enough to buy grapes at the best prices from the best growers, plus they possess great skill at winemaking. Additionally, shippers also have a practice that is called “declassifying.” Declassifying is taking the wines from your best vineyards and putting a lesser label on them at a lesser price. This is done usually because there is too much of it—and the producers want to put only the best cuvées in their best bottles—or because the vintage didn’t quite live up to the standards of that brand but can still be quite good.
Whether there is declassified wine in it or not, often the best value is simply labeled “Bourgogne” from a shipper who has blended wines from all over the region. A little more-pricey, but often still a good value, is a step up to a sub-regional wine such as a “Beaune.”
Become Familiar with Smaller Importers Like the négociant, importers have a reputation to uphold, and some of the smaller ones who specialize in Burgundies, such as Kermit Lynch, Vineyards Brands, or Weygandt Selections, often feature smaller producers who still charge reasonable prices. Often these importers will have special tastings or dinners where you can meet them and taste their wines. So, the more wine experience you get, the more you learn to trust certain importers.
Be Aware of “Alternative” Grapes While it is true that the tastes of Burgundy we recognize most are those of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the signature grapes and wines, there are other alternatives, generally at lesser prices, especially among the whites. Sauvignon and Aligoté are two of the best known. Both are white grapes generally grown in the Hautes Côtes or in the area around Chablis. Sauvignon has crisp, green flavors but is normally not overly acidic. “The worse soils are the best for Sauvignon,” says Pierre Sorin of Sorin Coquard, who grows the grape in Saint-Bris. In addition to Chardonnay, Eglantine Borgnat makes white wine from Aligoté on the family estate, Domaine Borgnat, in Auxerre “We grow Aligoté on the top of the plateau,” she says. “It produces a lot of grapes, but still makes good wines.” For Burgundy reds, look for Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Garins, a blend in which about a third of the grapes must be Pinot Noir.
Use the Experience of Your Wine Merchant Finally, your wine merchant should help you guide your taste, though not dictate it. The more you work with a wine seller, the more he or she gets to know your tastes and preferences, and how much you want to spend for a good wine. Most likely, the wine merchant has tasted every wine in the store at least once and can guide you to red or white Burgundies in your price range. Start your exploration by buying three or four bottles within a specific geographic area of Burgundy to see which wine producers you like best. Then start tasting them through vintages. Using these guidelines, you can learn to enjoy everyday wines from one of the world’s best wine regions—and perhaps even occasionally move up to the really great stuff. Roger Morris writes about wine, food, lifestyles, art and culture, and travel for about 20 publications and travels several times a year to wine regions worldwide. His newest book, The Brandywine Book of the Seasons, is about the culinary terroir of the Brandywine region and was published in September 2012. He lives in Chester County, Pennsylvania, with his artist wife, Ella Morris, and their five yard cats.
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24 drinks
The spirit of Scotland lives in each sip of the country’s native drink.
by Mary Subialka
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Orkney
Northern Highlands Speyside Skye Eastern Highlands
Aberdeen
Central Highlands Mull
Western Highlands
Jura
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Islay Lowlands Arran Campbeltown
England
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It’s not just a drink; it’s an experience. The spirit of Scotland is not only an amber glimmer in a glass, but something that lives in each sip of the country’s native drink. Allow time to relax and enjoy the rich character and flavor of Scotch. Pour a glass, admire the golden amber color with its perhaps slight hint of green, and then let the nose take over. It floods your olfactory senses with sweet, smoky, and earthy richness, an experience akin to burrowing your nose in autumn leaves. Your palate then joins the game and drinks in the heady rich sense of being somewhere else. This spirit is so quintessentially a part of the country it simply bears its name. Scotland has internationally protected the term and only whisky produced in Scotland can be labeled “Scotch” whisky (and that’s without an “e”). Single malt Scotch whisky is the product of one specific distillery and has not been mixed with whisky from any other distilleries. It’s made with barley malt, fermented with yeast, and distilled in pot stills. (American whiskies are generally made with corn and distilled in column stills.) The barley is germinated to activate enzymes that are critical to the fermentation process, and then dried to halt further maturation; Scotch’s unique smoky flavor results when the malted barley is dried over peat fires. From there, not only do these ingredients used to make the whisky create its
uniquely Scottish flavor, but the land itself imparts its own essence. Scotland covers the northern third of the island of Great Britain and technically has just two main regions, the Lowlands and the Highlands, however smaller areas are recognized for the production of this national spirit. Each area produces its own slightly different flavor characteristics, and the islands, especially Islay, tend to produce the most assertive and smoky malts. While the Highlands in the northeastern portion of the country may be one of the least-populated parts of Europe, this area stakes a claim as the “whisky capital of the world” since its sub-region of Speyside boasts the most concentrated area of Scotch production. More than half of Scotland’s single malts are produced here including many familiar names. Many distilleries are grouped along the valley of the River Spey. This area’s source of good water from the Spey, the Livet, and other rivers that run through the region on their way to the sea, as well as easy access with rail transport contributed to its early success. This small area located northwest of Aberdeen (the country’s third largest city) produces malt whiskies often described as sweet and delicate with a mix of aromas from smoke to leather and apples to honey. Speyside malts may be considered the quintessential Scotch for many whisky drinkers. Elsewhere in the southern and western reaches of the
Nosing and Tasting Flavor is a combination of smell, taste, and feeling. While there are only four primary tastes, there are 32 primary smells. Do you sense some of these aromas and flavors in your Scotch? Almonds Apples Apricots Banana Butter Butterscotch Caramel Cereal grains Cherries Cinnamon Clove Coconut Currant Dark chocolate Earth
Floral Grass, new mown Hay, fresh cut Honey Leather Malt Medicinal Melon Nectarines Nutmeg Oil Orange or orange liqueur Peat Pecan pie Plum
Poached pears Raisins Salt Sea air Seaweed Sherry Smoke Spice Sweet syrup Tar Toffee Tropical fruit Vanilla Wood Wood, burnt
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Scotch is usually enjoyed on its own, but if you would like a snack while sipping, try something sweet in dark chocolate or savory smoked fish.
Highlands, distilleries produce a range of styles from dry to sweet but generally have more peat character than the Lowland offerings. There is quite a range of styles and Highland whiskies often taste very different from each other—from the heathery, spicy character of northern Highlands to the fruity whiskies of the southern Highlands. The Lowlands, located at the southernmost part of Scotland, is a flat region with no mountains, and is better known for grain whiskies and blends. Their single malts tend to be soft and smoother than those from other areas, often displaying grassy characteristics and subtle, delicate aromas with little of the peat and brine characteristics of Highland malts. The Lowland’s water source doesn’t contain a lot of peat so it has less of the earthy flavor that peat imparts. The whisky produced in this region is often used for blending with more fullbodied whiskies. They may be a good place to start for those just discovering Scotch. No doubt many a dram has been enjoyed after a round at the area’s golf mecca of St. Andrew’s. (Glasgow, Scotland’s most populous city, is located in the west central Lowlands. Also Edinburgh, the country’s capital and second largest city by population, is located to the east near the North Sea.) Campbeltown is an isolated peninsula close to the northern Irish coast that currently only has a couple distilleries, though once carried the “whisky capital” bragging rights. The style is generally medium to full bodied and has a briny hint like most seaside whiskies but not as assertive and peaty as the malts made nearby on the island of Islay. Scotland has hundreds of islands including the Orkney Islands in the north and the Hebrides archipelago, of which Skye and Mull are to the west, and Jura and Islay in the southwest are the largest and most populous in the group. Islay produces the most assertive and “masculine” of all Scotch malts. And though other
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single malts can be intense, rich, and complex, an Islay single malt certainly says “Scottish isles.” The southernmost of Scotland’s isles, Islay (pronounced EYE-luh), is only three miles long but that translates into miles and miles of coastline—and a good deal of exposure to the effects of the sea. The ocean mists that swirl around the bogs of this flat green isle deposit salty spray in the peat that eventually finds its way into the whiskies. And since a good chunk of the island is made up of peat, with some seaweed mixed in for good measure, the rivers and streams pick up these flavors as they flow through the land. Islay Scotch can be a powerful peaty pour complete with hints of seaweed and bog flavors—even a touch of sea air infuses the finished spirit as it ages in casks. All of the distilleries on Islay are next to the sea, and the southern shores are home to the more powerful malts. In addition to using the heavily peated malt, these distilleries use the island’s water from streams and rivers that also carries peat flavors. The distilleries in the northern portion of the island produce milder whisky since they draw water from springs before it comes in contact with peat, and they also use lightly peated barley. The whiskies have a lighter flavor and are more mossy than peaty—though they still have a hint of seaweed. A Scotch produced in the middle of the island possesses flavors between those of the north and south; peaty but not medicinal with some toffee and floral notes. The whiskies produced on this island can sear the tongue and coat the palate with peaty, oily, and earthy taste. Once single malt fans have mastered the “training wheels” of Scotch from other regions, they can graduate to a ride with Islay. As you catch the glimmer in your glass and sit back and swirl, you may soon feel far away from everyday cares and in the company of the Scottish highlanders or islanders, totally immersed in a place at the margins of sea and bog.
barley malt
pot still
peat moss
nosing around the blend if you like a little earth with your toffee, possibly infused with a dash of peat and melted brown sugar, then mixed with cooked bananas and melted butter and maple syrup, mingled with a hint of smoke and possessing an aroma of honey, cinnamon, and allspice, then blended whiskey may be the drink for you. While you may not discern all the elements that can make up a blended whiskey, it’s this melding of numerous flavor and aroma components that makes a spirit often described as smooth with a perfectly balanced taste. a blended whiskey is a mixture of malt and grain whiskies that is commonly made with 40 percent malt whiskies and 60 percent grain whiskies. to be called blended scotch whisky, it must be made in scotland, otherwise it is “whiskey” spelled with an “e.” (canada is the only other area to use the “whisky” spelling.) and, if a whiskey is labeled “vatted,” it is a blend of two or more malted whiskies produced by one distillery without grain whiskey added. a blended scotch whisky may contain a combination of whiskies from many different malt and grain distilleries. the percentage of malt used will determine the quality and smoothness of taste and character. each whisky used in the blending process will normally have been matured for about five years, however there are a number of higher aged blended scotch whiskies available. blends come in an infinite variety. to create a blend, the distillery’s master blender generally does the job by smell rather than taste since we have dozens of aroma sensors and only four primary flavor sensors (sweet, salt, sour, and bitter.) this painstaking “nosing” process carefully melds proportions and flavors. some whiskey drinkers prefer to sip theirs “neat,” but a touch of water can enhance the whiskey’s aroma and flavor. it’s best to use filtered or bottled water, as the chlorine in tap water does not complement whiskey’s flavors. mixers such as soda, cola, or ginger ale can also create a flavorful drink. drinks 29
A NIP AT DAWN
BY PETER JOSEPH
MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR BRUNCH WITH THESE EYE-OPENING DRINK RECIPES AND FOOD PAIRINGS. If you are looking for a libation on a late Sunday morning, peruse the choices at most restaurants and you may find a Bellini or an Irish Coffee if you are fortunate, but those are likely to be your only options. As a result, our ideas for a brunch-time cocktail at home have been equally limited, writes author Peter Joseph in his new book, Boozy Brunch: The Quintessential Guide to Daytime Drinking. But there’s no reason to settle for just a few kinds of drinks when you want to make the most of your morning meal. 30 drinks
CHoCoLate CHIP and BaCon PanCakeS oPPoSIte PaGe: CoFFee nUdGe (reCIPeS on PaGe 32)
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Coffee Nudge Makes 1 drink Unless there’s a bartender named Nudge out there, I expect this cocktail was named after its ability to nudge you awake. Try with a plate of savory and sweet Chocolate Chip and Bacon Pancakes (recipe below).
1 ounce brandy B⁄c ounce dark crème de cacao B⁄c ounce coffee liqueur
5 ounces hot coffee Irish Coffee Whipped Cream (recipe below)
In an Irish Coffee glass, build this drink and float the cream on top.
irish coffee Whipped Cream Makes 1 pint 1 pint heavy whipping cream 1 or 2 tablespoons sugar (optional) 2 or 3 drops vanilla extract (optional) Take 1 pint of heavy whipping cream and pour into a steel pitcher or bowl (you can chill this container beforehand to speed up the process). Whisk until the air bubbles have disappeared but the cream isn’t stiff. If you’d like it sweetened, add sugar to taste, 1 tablespoon at a time, as well as 2 or 3 drops vanilla extract.
Chocolate Chip and Bacon Pancakes Makes 16 pancakes, serves 4 to 6 You could put almost anything in your pancakes, but after trying these you probably won’t want to try anything else. This recipe is J. Ross Marshall’s adaptation of a Cook’s Illustrated recipe.
5 slices bacon, cut into lardons 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder B⁄c teaspoon baking soda B⁄c teaspoon table salt 1 egg 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled 2 cups milk 2 teaspoons vegetable oil B⁄c cup chocolate chips Butter and maple syrup for serving Cook the bacon lardons until crispy. Place on a paper towel and set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt until combined. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg and melted butter into the milk until combined. In the bowl of flour and other ingredients, make a well in the center and pour in the milk mixture. Whisk gently until combined. It’s okay for a few lumps to remain. Heat a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, add 1 teaspoon oil, and coat the bottom of the skillet evenly. Pour B⁄e cup batter onto three spots on skillet to form three 4-inch pancakes. Cook pancakes until large bubbles begin to appear, 1 B⁄c to 2 minutes. Add the bacon and chocolate chips to the uncooked side before flipping. Flip pancakes with a spatula and cook until golden brown on second side, another 1 to 1 B⁄c minutes. Repeat with remaining batter, using remaining vegetable oil only if necessary. Serve with butter and maple syrup.
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bacon-infused spirits Makes 1 pint Nothing says breakfast drinking like bacon-infused booze. The ratio of bacon-to-alcohol can be entirely up to you. But pay close attention to the instructions for filtering; otherwise you’ll end up with too much fat in your drink.
3 strips bacon B⁄c tablespoon butter 1 pint gin or other liquor Cook the bacon in a pan with butter, then pour the entire contents of the pan into a jar filled with your liquor. Seal the jar, and leave it for 6 hours. Then remove the strips of bacon, reseal the jar, and place it in the freezer overnight. The fat will freeze but the spirit will not. Remove the “fat cap” and then strain through cheesecloth into another jar. (You may want to repeat the freezing process more than once.)
Smoked Martinez Makes 1 drink An original recipe that shakes up the classic Martinez with the addition of bacon and maple syrup.
1 teaspoon maple syrup 1 ounce Bacon-Infused Gin (recipe above)
Smoked Martinez
2 ounces sweet vermouth 1 dash orange bitters
Combine the ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
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Eggs Hussarde Serves 8 What better recipe to use than that of the New Orleans institution, Brennen’s, for this classic brunch dish? If you aren’t able to find Holland rusks—a dry, crisp bread—then replace with toasted English muffins. I’ve adapted Brennan’s recipe here.
For the Marchand de Vin sauce: 6 tablespoons butter B⁄c cup onion, finely chopped 1 B⁄c teaspoon garlic, finely chopped B⁄c scallion, finely chopped B⁄c cup boiled ham, finely chopped B⁄c cup mushrooms, finely chopped B⁄d cup all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 2 cups beef stock
B⁄c cup red wine 1 B⁄c teaspoon thyme leaves 1 bay leaf B⁄c cup fresh parsley, finely chopped Salt and pepper to taste For the eggs: 2 cups white vinegar 8 eggs 8 slices Canadian bacon
2 tablespoons butter 8 Holland rusks For the hollandaise sauce: 12 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 egg yolks 2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice, freshly squeezed Salt and white pepper to taste
For the Marchand de Vin sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan. Sauté the onion, garlic, scallions, and ham for about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for about 2 more minutes. Then mix in the flour and continue cooking, while stirring, for another 4 minutes. Now add the Worcestershire, stock, wine, thyme, and bay leaf. Simmer for about an hour, stirring occasionally. Remove the bay leaf and then add the parsley. Salt and pepper to taste. For the eggs, in a pot, bring 1 B⁄c quarts of water and the vinegar to a boil and then add the eggs carefully so as not to break the yolks. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, and then remove with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl of cold water. Fry the bacon in the pan with butter until brown, about 5 minutes. Then place on a baking sheet in the oven, set to 200°F, to keep warm. To make the hollandaise, begin by melting butter in a pan over low heat. In a saucepan, before placing on a burner, whisk together the eggs, lemon juice, 1 tablespoon water, and salt and pepper until the mixture looks pale yellow in color. Set the heat to medium-low, place the saucepan on the burner, and continue whisking as the sauce cooks, until the whisk leaves trails in the eggs, or about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the stove and begin whisking in the butter 1 tablespoon at a time. Once the sauce is ready, reheat the eggs in a skillet of water for about a minute. Use a slotted spoon to place the eggs on towels to drain. Plate the Holland rusks, then top each with one slice bacon. Spoon Marchand de Vin sauce over the bacon. Top with one egg each, and then spoon Hollandaise sauce over them.
Milk Punch Makes 1 drink New Orleans bartender Chris Hannah recommends trying the Milk Punch alongside a plate of Eggs Hussarde (recipe above).
B⁄c teaspoon nutmeg, freshly grated 1 B⁄c ounces bourbon or brandy 1 teaspoon vanilla extract B⁄e ounce Simple Syrup 2 ounces half-and-half In a cocktail shaker with ice, add half the grated nutmeg and the other ingredients. Shake and pour into a double old-fashioned glass. Garnish with the remainder of the nutmeg.
Recipes and photos from Boozy Brunch: The Quintessential Guide to Daytime Drinking by Peter Joseph. Photography by Salma khalil. ©2012 Taylor Trade Publishing, an imprint of the Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group. www.rowman.com
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Surdyk'S cHeeSe SHOP
PRessIng engageMent silky fresh olio nuovo and olio novello extra virgin olive oil from Italy are a once-a-year indulgence you don’t want to miss. BY MARY RICHTER, Surdyk's Cheese Shop Manager
I
n our last issue, I shared with you my summer trip to the Languedoc region of southern France and what I’d learned about olives. In this issue, I focus on Olio Nuovo from northern Italy, and Olio Novello, which comes from southern Italy. These two regions produce and celebrate the very first pressing of olives every year, much the same way the French celebrate the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau. Using only physical means of pressing, this is truly extra virgin olive oil. So vibrant green in color you’d think someone added pigment from a paint-
er’s tube, the first pressing has a silky texture and one of the most intense and intoxicating aromas you’ll find in olive oil anywhere. Inhale the aromas of some oil poured into a glass dish, and you’ll notice freshly cut grass, peppers, green apple, artichoke, and tomato. The two regions grow different olives, and each varietal has its own characteristics. In Tuscany, there are Leccino, Pendolino, and Frantoio olives (and to confuse matters just a little, the olive mill where they mechanically press the olives is called a Frantoio as well). In the south, in Sicily, the hot, dry climate produces an excellent olive for pressing, the Nocellara del Belice. Many local Frantoio hold their own festa to celebrate the new oil, with copious amounts of food and wine, of course. Most favored, you’ll find thick slices of warm bread rubbed with garlic and sprinkled with coarse sea salt, ready to dip into the new olive oil. The warm bread releases the true character of the intense oil; it’s piquant and peppery, a treat to be savored. Olio Nuovo/Novello are best enjoyed soon after bottling, unfiltered and before the oil has settled. We preordered several cases of both the Olio Novello and Olio Nuovo in August, long before pressing began, and we expect to have them on our shelves by early December. This is a one-time-ayear purchase, and we’ll have a limited supply, so you may want to order a bottle or two in advance. I might add, these oils are wonderful with fall and heartier winter fare and best enjoyed sooner rather than later—so indulge yourself with wild abandon of this oncea-year tradition!
olIo nUoVo/ noVello FeatURes Tenuta di Capezzana (Carmignano, Tuscany) Beautiful lime green color, scents of green almond and apples. Lovely, buttery texture as it is unfiltered. Full of green tea, nutty, buttery flavors with a delightful peppery finish. Drizzle on fish, oysters, scallops, carpaccio, bitter greens, or polenta. Olive cultivars: Frantoio, Moraiolo, Pendolino, and Leccino. $48 (500 ml) Frescobaldi Laudemio (Nipozzano, Tuscany) Luscious emerald green color, scents of honey and soft grass. Tastes of artichokes, with a buttery, herbaceous flavor, complex with a pungent finish. Serve with pizza, butternut squash soup, chicory salad, grilled porcini, or roasted chicken. Olive cultivars: Frantoio, Moraiolo, and Leccino. $34 (250 ml) Olio Verde (Castelvetrano, Sicily) Aromas of fresh cut grass. Flavors of artichoke and green almonds with a black pepper finish. Serve with mashed potatoes, chard, and soft poached eggs, roasted squash, or a hearty soup. Olive cultivars: 100% Nocellara del Belice. $43 (500 ml) www.surdyks.com
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Surdyk's Scene
Read any good blogs lately? "I'm always thirsty." — Lindsey Coleman
If you’ve visited mspmag.com you have. And if you fancy yourself a “foodie” you really have. Lovers of food and wine love to read the writing of other lovers of food and wine, and Minneapolis St. Paul Magazine delivers. Their website’s Eat + Drink section is bursting with bloggers who know their stuff. And chances are, you know them. The amazing Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl, the fun and feisty Stephanie March, and the bombastically dynamic Andrew Zimmern.
But do you know the brains behind the blogs that come from Surdyk’s? (Probably not, because for various reasons, the authors aren’t terribly obvious on the site… but they are here!) DRUM ROLL, PLEASE Introducing Lindsey Coleman and Emily Dunne. Surdyk’s very own, very prolific, very passionate blogstresses. RIM SHOT Lindsey is behind the Surdyk’s Liquor
Surdyk’s Flights Fine wine to buy and fly!
MSP International Airport. Terminal One www.surdyksflights.com Coming soon to Terminal Two!
36 drinks
www.surdyks.com
Surdyk's Scene blog (on Dara’s page), because as Surdyk’s Office Manager, master plate spinner, and daily fire "puterouter," the girl needs a cocktail when she gets home. And after five years of helping the largest liquor retailer in the Midwest run like a top, she knows a thing or two about tipple. She’s also been an aspiring writer since she was itty bitty. She’s still itty bitty but the creative outlet is something adult Lindsey is positively giddy over. One pass through her posts and you’ll see that her talent behind-thescenes extends to paper—or electronic media, as the case may be.
Surdyk’s Cheese Shop blog is “penned” by the always cheerful, always engaging, always food-ing Emily Dunne (on Andrew Zimmern’s page). As Surdyk’s first Catering Manager, the young and hungry Emily has proven herself to be a whiz in the kitchen, a savvy businesswoman, and as gifted with words as she is with creating the perfect five-course-menu. Don’t let those doe eyes fool you, she can turn a mean phrase…which will inspire you to turn on your heels and hightail it to Surdyk’s to gobble up whatever it is she’s gushing over.
"Will write for food." — Emily Dunne
— Lynda Crotty
If you can’t get enough of these two on mspmag.com, follow them on Twitter! Lindsey tweets @surdyksliquor and Emily tweets @surdykscheese. # gonnaloveit!
“I have no idea what I’m doing.” Entertaining for the holidays? Don’t fake it. Let us make it!
Visit surdyks.com for our full holiday menu.
East Hennepin at University, NE Minneapolis