6 rue Thorel, 75002 Paris, France www.gogocityguides.com Š Kate van den Boogert 2010–2013
GOGO PARIS: Spring / Summer 2014 ISBN: 978-2-919474-08-0
This book is produced sustainably using plantation timber, and printed in the destination market on demand reducing wastage and excess transport. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission from the publisher.
Spring / Summer 2014 Biannual Edition
insider guides to go gogocityguides.com
Welcome to Paris
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this season IN Paris news & trends
9
WHAT'S ON
10
Sleep Hotels & Accommodation
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Etienne Marcel / Saint-HonorE Marais Left Bank Champs-ElysEes Montmartre / pigalle Canal St- M artin / Oberkampf / BELLEVILLE Bastille
26 36 46 56 66 76 84 88 92 96
Directory A-Z transport Index •Alphabet ical
•BY TAGS
spring / summer 2014
gogoparis.com
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this season in
p rs spring / summer
spring / summer 2014
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tHis seAson in PAris
neWs & trends
Nicolas Ghesquière joins Louis Vuitton
This season’s big fashion news is Marc Jacobs stepping down as creative director of Louis Vuitton after 16 super-successful years, to concentrate on his own line. His ultimate collection, for spring/ summer 2014, is now on the racks.
Succeeding him as women’s design director is Nicolas Ghesquière, who transformed the fortunes of Balenciaga from 1997 to 2012. Ghesquière’s hotly anticipated first collection for Vuitton, for autumn-winter 2014-15, will be presented during Paris Fashion Week, starting on 25 Feb!
La Jeune Rue
An ambitious, original, even utopic new development, La Jeune Rue will transform a sleepy corner of the 3rd into an exciting and avant-garde village dedicated to ‘produce better, eat better, live better’. About 25 shops on and around the Rue du Vertbois will be transformed by some of the biggest designers on the international scene. Produce from exceptional suppliers, including the permaculture farm La Ferme du Bec-Hellouin, will be available direct to Parisians via bistros designed by the Campana Brothers and Alessandro Mendini, a club and flour mill by Jaime Hayon, a speakeasy by Ingo Maurer, a grocery by Tom Dixon, a tapas bar by Jasper Morrison... and the list goes on. The first openings are planned for April and May! lajeunerue.com
Maison Michel Pop-up
The on-trend French milliner has opened a pop-up at 19 rue Cambon, making for their first own-name sales outlet. The brand was founded in 1936 and has been owned by Chanel since 1996; new AD Laetitia Crahay, accessories designer at Chanel, has been doing great things transforming the historic brand into a hot Made in France accessories label with a host of celeb fans including Rihanna or Lady Gaga. This pop-up will be open at least until the end of March, with a permanent boutique to follow soon we hope. www.michel-paris.com
New openings
Paris’s education in the fine art of coffee making and drinking continues with the arrival of new indie roastery Belleville Brûlerie (page 69), specialised in drip filter brews, as well as a variety of great new barista-driven cafés including Fondation Café (page 29), Lockwood (page 17) and Café Kitsuné (page 16).
Musée Picasso reopens on 14 June
Two chic new boutique hotels should open this summer. Le Montana in Saint-Germain-desPrés will comprise just 7 suites designed in a clean, modern style by Vincent Darré, Elisabeth Lemercier and Philippe Bona. Vincent Darré is also working on a new hotel with André Saraiva, of Hôtel Amour fame, on Rue de la Fidelité, this time with a décor inspired by the Côte d’Azur in the 50s.
It’s official. After repeated delays, the Musée Picasso – located in the exquisite Baroque mansion the Hôtel Salé in the Marais – will reopen its doors at last on June 14. The modernised and expanded musuem will boast improved exhibition spaces, allowing for more than 500 of Picasso’s works to be displayed throughout the building’s 4 levels. www.museepicassoparis.fr
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Craft Beer
Some of the highlights of the new season include a first bricks-and-mortar restaurant for the organic burger truck Cantine California, at 46 rue de Turbigo, near Arts-etMétiers. Bob of Bob’s Juice Bar fame is working on a New York-style bagel spot, Bob’s Bake Shop, opening soon near La Chapelle at 22bis rue Pajol, 18th. A new club Faust, located under the Pont Alexandre III opposite Showcase and set up by Addy Bakhtiar, Charaf Tajer and John Whelan, is slated to open this spring. The new address from the guys behind the wonderful L’Entrée des Artistes (page 71), Victor, should open soon in Pigalle too. After the opening of the restored arthouse cinema Le Louxor last year, the sketchy Barbès hood takes another step towards gentrification with the opening later this spring, on the Barbès/ Rochechouart intersection, of a massive new 3-storey café and bar Brasserie Barbès from the crew behind trendy Paris nightlife landmarks Chez Jeannette, Sans Souci, Chez Justine and Le Floréal.
Hussein Chalayan joins Vionnet
The forward thinking, innovative designer has been hired as demi-couture designer for Parisian house Vionnet, now owned by the larger-than-life billionaire Goga Ashkenazi. His cutting-edge debut collection for the brand was unveiled in January during Couture Fashion Week in Paris.
spring / summer 2014
If France is Europe’s second lowest beer consumer after Italy, New York’s specialty brewer Brooklyn Brewery has nonetheless been making inroads here, and their fine lagers can find now be found in many bars and restaurants around Paris, including Glass (page 60), Freddie’s Deli (page 69) or the great new Bistro Bellet (page 68). Relaunched local brewer Demory is producing all-natural, unpasteurized brews, and you can taste the full range at their central new Bar Demory (page 30). And get ready for the new craft brewery Something Brewing, opening later this spring, just out of Paris in the neighbouring suburb of Montreuil. somethingbrewing.net
Paris will elect a new mayor in March, 12 years, and two terms, after Socialist politician Bertrand Delanoë headed a left-wing alliance of Greens, Socialists and Communists to power, thereby installing the Left in the Hôtel de Ville for the first time since 1871! Delanoë has bowed out of running for a third term, but is actively supporting the Socialist candidate, and his deputy since 2001, Anne Hidalgo. The other principal candidate is Nathalie Kosciusko-Morizet, representing the centre-right UMP party. Openly gay, Delanoë will also be remembered for improving the quality of life of Parisians by creating Paris-Plages, the Vélib and Autolib systems, reducing pollution, and for losing the Olympics to London in 2012.
Viktor & Rolf
After returning to the Paris Couture calendar after a 13-year absence, the avant-garde Dutch fashion duo celebrated the 20th anniversary of their label with the opening, last December, of their first ever flagship, here in Paris (page 21). The monochrome, mono-material space is decked out in grey felt, a ‘ghost architecture’ that references the duo’s allgrey first collection in 2003. www.viktor-rolf.com
The Bastille shopping strip is booming. Over the past year or so it’s seen a parade of trendy streetwear labels open, including April 77, Misericordia (page 81), Edwin and Kulte, not to mention a new outpost for the tasty organic chain Le Pain Quotidien (page 79), and ballet stars Repetto (page 81). The next big opening, slated for this spring, is a huge new Cos store, their 3rd space in Paris, at 18 rue de Charonne, next door to the street’s high-profile pioneer, Isabel Marant (page 81).
No Reservations!
Not content with classic ‘reservation only’ restaurants, typically booked up for months in advance, some of the city’s most loved chefs have been setting up more casual but complementary establishments, often in close promixity to their original restaurant and engaging more with their neighbourhood. After the wine and tapas bar Septime Cave, Bertrand Grébaut recently opened Clamato, a chic but casual no-reservation spot dedicated to fish and seafood and next door to his Septime. Gregory Marchand of Frenchie fame now has 3 addresses on the Rue du Nil, the reservations only flagship, a no-reservation wine bar, and a low-key gourmet fast-food joint, Frenchie to Go.
Le Lutétia to close
After the Ritz, the Crillon and the Plaza Athénée, Left Bank landmark Le Lutétia is the latest luxury hotel to undergo major renovations, closing for 3 years from April for a total facelift. www.lutetia-paris.com And after closing for refurbishment last October, the Plaza Athénée should reopen in May flaunting 6 new guest rooms, 8 suites, a ballroom and 2 event spaces. www.plaza-athenee-paris.com
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WHAt's on
WHAt's on Bill Viola at the Grand Palais
Without doubt the most celebrated exponent of video art, Viola expresses his emotional and spiritual journey through great metaphysical themes – life, death and transfiguration… For the first time, the Grand Palais will present a wide-ranging group of his works, including moving paintings and monumental installations from 1975 to today. Wed 5 Mar–Mon 21 July 2014 · www.grandpalais.fr
Paris Fashion Week Women’s AW14-15 collections Tue 25 February–Wed 5 March · www.modeaparis.com
French Open Sat 24 May–Sun 8 June 2014 · www.rolandgarros.com
Summer Sales Robert Mapplethorpe at the Grand Palais
Mapplethorpe produced highly stylised black-andwhite portraits, nudes and still lifes. Over and above the erotic power that made Mapplethorpe’s work famous, the exhibition presents the classic dimension of the artist’s work and his search for aesthetic perfection, through over 200 images that span his career from the early 1970s to his death in 1989.
Tue 24 June–Tue 29 July
Cinéma en Plein Air Wed 23 July–Wed 27 Aug · www.villette.com
Rock en Seine Fri 22–Sun 24 Aug · www.rockenseine.com
Wed 26 Mar–Mon 14 July · www.grandpalais.fr
Henri Cartier-Bresson at the Centre Pompidou
Dries Van Noten at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs
The Centre Pompidou’s new retrospective offers a genuine reinterpretation of Cartier-Bresson’s work. The exhibition – the first in Europe since the artist’s death 10 years ago – reveals his work far beyond the ‘decisive moment’ that long sufficed to sum up his genius for composition and skill in capturing movement. Wed 12 Feb–Mon 9 June 2014 · www.centrepompidou.fr
With his instantly recognisable style and inimitable prints, the fashion designer – one of the Antwerp Six – has been invited to shine a light on his creative vision through his collections and those of the museum.
Julianna Barwick Wed 19 March · l’eglise st-merry
Joan as a Police Woman Fri 21 March · café de la danse
Matmos The Stranglers Mon 7 April · olympia
Francois & the Atlas Mountains Wed 9 April · la gaîté lyrique
Mac DeMarco
L’État du Ciel at the Palais de Tokyo
Fri 14 Feb–Sun 7 Sep 2014 · www.palaisdetokyo.com
Mon 10 March · le Zénith
Sat 29 March · le 104 (Free)
Sat 1 Mar–Sun 31 Aug 2014 · www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr
The new season at the Palais de Tokyo is a homage to many artists’, poets’ and philosophers’ reflections on the physical, moral and political factors that shape our world. Over a season, 10 exhibitions explore this theme, from artists including Thomas Hirschhorn, Hiroshi Sugimoto or up-and-coming UK artist Ed Atkins.
Franz Ferdinand
Fri 16 May · le trabendo
Lucio Fontana at the Musée d’Art Moderne
Neutral Milk Hotel Sun 25 May · le trianon
This exhibition brings into confrontation Fontana’s famous Concetti spaziali (Spatial Concepts), a series of punctured canvases, and his Tagli series of slashed canvases – a key reference for 20th-century artists – with lesser-known pieces, in particular his 1930s sculpture and his ceramics, most of which are exhibited in France for the first time.
The War on Drugs
Fri 25 Apr–Sun 24 Aug 2014 · www.mam.paris.fr
Tue 3, Wed 4 June · le Zénith
Mon 26 May · la Flèche d’or
The Julie Ruin Tue 27 May · la Flèche d’or
Arcade Fire
Follow us on Twitter @gogoparis, Instagram @_gogoparis or Facebook (gogoparis.com) for more ideas on where to go and what to see.
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etienne MArCeL sAint-Honore ArrondisseMents
Palais royal
Louvre
opera
Les Halles
Montorgueil
Concorde
Concorde, Opéra Garnier, Place Vendôme, the Tuileries Gardens or the magnificent Louvre… Get your MONUMENT fix here! This part of central Paris is the CULTURAL and CONSUMER HUB of the capital and boasts 2 major shopping neighbourhoods: Rei Kawakubo pioneered the ETIENNE MARCEL area as a fashion district back in the 80s, and it’s still delivering; and COLETTE shook up the Rue St-Honoré (the formerly scruffy end of Faubourg St-Honoré) when it moved in 15 years ago. Then there’s the DEPARTMENT STORES above Opéra, and High Street heaven at Les Halles. And the Rue Ste-Anne, running between Opéra and Palais Royal, is where to go for JAPANESE FOOD.
getting around Get out at palais royal station. From here you can visit fashion mecca the Palais-Royal before continuing your shopping west up the rue st-honoré. Turn left at the rue Royal to visit place de la concorde, before backtracking east along arcaded, souvenir shop strip rue de rivoli, or through the tuileries gardens to the Louvre. For etienne marcel, get out at same-name Metro and keep in mind rue tiquetonne, rue etienne marcel and the cobble-stoned rue montorgueil. les halles is Paris’s central transport hub, and also features a sprawling subterranean shopping mall.
sPring / suMMer 2014
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Maison Michel, Viktor & Rolf, Café Kitsuné, Lockwood, Les Marquis de Ladurée, Fish Club, Frenchie To Go, Hôtel Edgar, KRISVANASSCHE, Kunitoraya 1, MM6, Terroirs d’Avenir...
Art CuLture design Jeu de Paume don’T miSS arT / muSeum / PhoTo
France’s national centre of photography, within the Tuileries Gardens, excels in insightful retrospectives of modern and contemporary photography. 1 place de la Concorde, 8th · www.jeudepaume.org · Noon–7pm (Tue, 9pm); Sat–Sun 10am–7pm. Closed Mon.
Louvre arT / muSeum / mYThiC Keep in mind that the world’s ultimate museum also boasts a quality contemporary art programme. Late-night opening (Wed & Fri) is a good way to avoid the crowds. Place du Carrousel, 1st · www.louvre.fr · 9am–6pm (Wed & Fri 10pm). Closed Tue.
eAt & Coffee Beef Club DD STeaK
This trendy steakhouse serves English beef aged by butcher-to-the-stars Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec, and other lip-smacking dishes. Plus there’s a moody cocktail lounge in the basement (see Beef Club Ballroom below). 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1st · 09 54 37 13 65 · Open for dinner Mon–Sat.
Blend Hamburger D burgerS / non-SToP / TaKe awaY
This upbeat gourmet fast food joint rides the Paris burger trend but adds homemade fries, veggie burger options and local organic beer. 44 rue d’Argout, 2nd (+ branches) · No reservations · blendhamburger.com · Noon–11pm daily.
93 rue de Rivoli, 1st · 01 49 26 06 60 · 8am–2am daily.
Café Le Nemours DD Coffee / non-SToP / TerraCe
Sip your Perrier at a table out front, overlooking the antique Comédie Française theatre and contemporary artist Jean-Michel Othoniel’s dreamy entrance to the Palais Royal Métro station. 2 place Colette, 1st · 01 42 61 34 14 · 7am–1.30am; Sun 9am–9.30pm.
Cantine California D burgerS / food TruCK / organiC / TaKe awaY
‘Parisian street food’ from this itinerant burger truck that churns out delicious organic tacos, carnitas and burgers. It divides its time between the Marché St-Honoré in the 1st, and the Marché Raspail on the Left Bank. (Follow their schedule via Twitter & Facebook.) www.cantinecalifornia.com
Le Café D
Chez Denise DD
Coffee / non-SToP / TerraCe
CLaSSiC frenCh / LaTe / mYThiC
This buzzing little Etienne Marcel address is the perfect spot to refuel before braving the shops again.
A relic from when the Les Halles food market made this neighbourhood 'the belly of Paris' (Zola). Every wired rockstar has stopped by for a late-night meal (it's open till 5am).
62 rue Tiquetonne, 2nd · 01 40 39 08 00 · 8am–1am daily.
Café Etienne Marcel DD breaKfaST / brunCh / modern frenCh / non-SToP / TerraCe / wi-fi
5 rue des Prouvaires, 1st · 01 42 36 21 82 · Noon–2.30pm, 7.30pm–5am. Closed Sat, Sun.
Wild, pop interiors from star graphic designers M/M Paris, with contemporary artists Philippe Parreno and Pierre Huyghe at this expansive corner café. Enjoy your M/M ‘Loveburger’ and fries on one of the many outdoor tables and watch the world go by.
Chez Miki DD
107 rue de Rivoli, 1st · www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr · 11am–6pm (Thu 9pm). Closed Mon.
64 rue Tiquetonne, 2nd · 01 45 08 01 03 · 9am–2am daily.
5 rue de Louvois, 2nd · No reservations · Noon–2.30pm, 7.30–10.30pm daily.
L’Orangerie
Café Kitsuné D new
Claus D
Coffee / gLuTen free
breaKfaST / Coffee / TaKe awaY / wifi
arT / muSeum
After Tokyo, the Paris based record/ fashion label opened an espresso bar in Paris, in the beautiful Palais-Royal. The intimate, stand-up space offers premium London-roasted coffee, tea, juices and gluten-free snacks.
This healthy café specialises in Frühstück (that’s breakfast in German) and is just across the street from Louboutin.
51 galerie de Montpensier, Jardin du Palais-Royal, 1st · kitsune.fr · 8.30am-6.30pm daily.
Coinstot Vino DD
Musée des Arts Décoratifs don’T miSS / deSign / muSeum
Grandly installed in a wing of the Louvre, the decorative arts museum complex houses one of the world’s most important collections of design, but also a fashion museum and a great shop.
Two purpose-built gallery spaces exhibit Monet’s mind-blowing Nymphéas series of 8 monumental paintings, quivering on the threshold of abstraction. Jardin des Tuileries, 1st · www.musee-orangerie.fr · 9am–6pm. Closed Tue.
Café Marly DD breaKfaST / Coffee / non-SToP / TerraCe / View
A symphony of stone, this beautiful terrace under the Louvre’s arcades looks out over IM Pei’s pyramid.
spring / summer 2014
JaPaneSe
Perpendicular to Jap strip Rue Ste-Anne, this tiny spot proposes an excellent, authentic 15D bento menu at lunch, then gets more experimental (and expensive) at dinner.
14 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1st · 01 42 33 55 10 · www.clausparis.com · 8am–7pm; Sat, Sun 9.30am–5pm.
wine bar / wifi
Discover the excellent list of small producer wines plus a short food menu with the same commitment to quality ingredients, within one of the city’s lovely covered passageways.
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Etienne marcel / saint-honorE
26bis passage des Panoramas, 2nd · 01 44 82 08 54 · 8.30am (noon Mon)– midnight; Sat 6pm–midnight. Closed Sun.
Colette Water Bar DD coffee / NON-STOP / VEGETARIAN / WIFI
Rehydrate in the soothing basement of Paris’ ultimate concept store, with the stylish young things. 213 rue St-Honoré, 1st · No reservations · www.colette.fr · Noon–6.30pm. Closed Sun.
Edgar DD
new
brunch / SEAFOOD / terrace
Hidden inside the Sentier textiles district, this smart hotel restaurant boasts a ground-floor dining room and bar – plus an XXL terrace – showcasing a contemporary French menu from chef Xavier Thiery. 31 rue d’Alexandrie, 2nd · 01 40 41 05 69 · www.edgarhotel.com · Noon–2.30pm, 7–11pm daily.
F ish Club DD
NEW
cocktails / SEAFOOD / small plates / terrace
This elegant Peruvian fusion affair from the Experimental Cocktail Club crew serves raw and cooked fish dishes including ceviche, but also oysters and charcoal-grilled octopus. The bar specialises in Pisco cocktails and beer. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1st · 01 40 26 68 75 · www.eccfishclub.com · 7pm–2am daily.
Frenchie / Frenchie Wine Bar DD
modern french / small plates / wine bar / yum
Le Garde Robe D wine bar / TAKE AWAY
This friendly wine bar offers an array of natural, organic wines, served by savvy staff and accompanied by superior sides of charcuterie and cheese. 41 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 1st · 01 49 26 90 60 · 11am–3pm and 6pm–midnight. Closed Sun & Sat lunch.
Gyoza Bar D JAPANESE / TAKE AWAY
This micro gyoza bar – a side project for the Michelin starred Passage 53, 3 doors up – serves up exquisite pork dumplings and beer to 12 or so lucky punters. 56 passage des Panoramas, 2nd · 01 44 82 00 62 · Open for lunch & dinner. Closed Sun.
H.A.N.D. DD breakfast / burgers / non-stop
Not far from the Palais-Royal, this international spot serves with a smile everything homesick transatlantics might pine for, including first-rate burgers, dogs, bagels and cheesecake. 39 rue de Richelieu, 1st · 01 40 15 03 27 · 10am–midnight. Closed Sun & Mon night.
Kunitoraya 1 DD new / don’t miss JAPANESE
The city’s best udon bar has a smart new space. We still don’t know how to choose between the Kamaten-Udon (vegetable and prawn tempura, quail egg, udon, hot broth: 20D) or the same over a bowl of rice. The flavours remain magnificently precise, fresh and tasty.
This always full gastronomic hotspot has expanded with a wine bar across the street that serves delicious small plates to go with its stellar wine list, and where you won’t need to book (sigh).
1 rue Villedo, 1st · www.kunitoraya.com · Noon–2.30pm, 7–10pm. Closed Wed.
5, 6 rue du Nil, 2nd · 01 40 39 96 19 · www.frenchie-restaurant.com · Open for dinner. Closed Sat & Sun.
The more upmarket satellite to the excellent next-door udon and rice canteen serves exquisite and authentic Japanese dishes to share, inside a lovely Belle Epoque brasserie setting.
Frenchie To Go D new breakfast / non-stop / take away
Paris chef Gregory Marchand continues to put the Sentier’s Rue du Nil on the map. His new take-away oriented affair offers a range of gourmet ‘junk-food’ imported from the US & UK, including the Reuben’s sandwich or excellent fish & chips, plus all-day breakfast options. 9 rue du Nil, 2nd · www.frenchietogo.com · 8.30am–4.30pm. Closed Sun, Mon.
Kunitoraya 2 DD don’t miss JAPANESE
5 rue Villedo, 1st · www.kunitoraya.com · 12.15–2.30pm, 7.30–10.30pm. Closed Mon & Sun dinner.
Lockwood D NEW BAR / COCKTAILS / coffee / VEGETARIAN
This 2-floor ‘espresso / aperitivo’ hybrid opens at 9am for morning espresso and breakfast, then continues delivering throughout the day (including great vegetarian options). From 6.30pm it’s time for an Aperol spritz, negroni or martini, yeah! or a creative cocktail in the basement bar.
73 rue d’Aboukir, 2nd · www.lockwoodparis.com · 9am–2am. Closed Mon.
Pierrot DD CLASSIC FRENCH / terrace
This reliable and central tradi French bistro specialises in cuisine from the Southwest – think a killer confit de canard. Good wines and service only add to the charm. 18 rue Étienne Marcel, 1st · 01 45 08 00 10 · Open for lunch & dinner. Closed Sun.
Pirouette DD new MODERN FRENCH / terrace
Chef Tomy Gousset (formerly at the Meurice and Taillevent) prepares a fresh and contemporary French menu with a good-value 18D (entrée/main) lunch menu, or you can go à la carte from 40D. The expansive off-street terrace is an excellent spot for wining and dining in summer. 5 rue Mondétour, 1st · 01 40 26 47 81 · Open for lunch & dinner. Closed Sun.
Racines 2 D MODERN FRENCH / YUM
It’s so good there’s now two of them. But this second manifestation has a Starck designed décor (New York loft industrial) to go with the excellent market-driven menu and natural wines. 39 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 1st · 01 42 60 77 34 · Lunch & dinner. Closed weekends.
La Régalade St-Honoré DD Classic FRENCH
A second, more central, address for chef Bruno Doucet’s excellently executed trad French menu, famously starting with an all-you-can-eat terrine served with bread and gherkins. 123 rue St-Honoré, 1st · 01 42 21 92 40 · Lunch & dinner. Closed weekends.
Rice & Fish D japanese / sushi / take away
Great sushi, California rolls and their legendary green tea cheesecake all served with cold beers and a dose of laid-back West Coast cool. 16 & 22 rue Greneta, 2nd · No reservations · Lunch Mon–Sat; dinner Thu–Sat. Closed Sun.
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PArtY
Saturne DD modern frenCh / Yum
The imaginative and precise dishes put together by chef Sven Chartier, and paired with natural wines, make for a contemporary dining high. 17 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires, 2nd · 01 42 60 31 90 · saturne-paris.fr · Open for lunch & dinner. Closed Sat, Sun.
Spring DD modern frenCh / wine bar / Yum
The much lauded American chef Daniel Rose expresses his talent via a creative, market-driven menu. Book now! 6 rue Bailleul, 1st · 01 45 96 05 72 · 6.30–10.30pm. Closed Sun, Mon.
Télescope Café D
don’T miSS
breaKfaST / Coffee / TaKe awaY
A chic new landmark on Paris’ budding ‘neo coffee’ scene, Télescope roasts its own beans and features a monthly guest roaster. As well as making excellent expresso, they specialise in fine dripfiltered brews, served with tasty baked goods, granola or bread & jam. 5 rue Villedo, 1st · www.telescopecafe.com · 8.30am–5pm; Sat 9.30am–6.30pm. Closed Sun.
Verjus DD ameriCan / SmaLL PLaTeS / wine bar
Upstairs is the handsome restaurant serving 4- or 6-course tasting menus; down on street level you’ll find the wine bar with its more affordable bar menu but equally tasty cuisine (and now serving gourmet sandwiches at lunch: Tue–Fri, 12.30–2pm.) 52 rue de Richelieu, 1st · 01 42 97 54 40 · 7pm (6pm wine bar)–11pm. Closed Sat, Sun.
Workshop Issé D JaPaneSe / TaKe awaY
This handsome Jap grocery also dishes up a delicious, daily changing 10D bento at lunchtime. 11 rue St-Augustin, 2nd · 01 42 96 26 47 · www.isse-et-cie.fr/workshop · Noon–1.30pm. Closed Sun.
Yam’Tcha DDD fuSion / Yum
Award-winning Chinese-inspired fusion food from a top French chef, paired with exquisite teas. Good luck getting a table. 4 rue Sauval, 1st · 01 40 26 08 07 · www.yamtcha.com · Open for lunch (except Tue) & dinner. Closed Sun, Mon.
spring / summer 2014
Beef Club Ballroom bar / CoCKTaiLS / LaTe
Descend the stairs into this dingy basement speakeasy – from the Experimental Cocktail Club crew – with its tight list of alternative cocktails (plus the other usual suspects). 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1st · eccbeefclub.com · 7pm–4am. Closed Sun.
Chacha Club CLub
This cosy Deco-style club and restaurant hybrid provides multiple excuses for excess. Good DJs. 47 rue Berger, 1st · www.chachaclub.fr · 8pm–late daily.
La Conserverie don’T miSS bar / CoCKTaiLS / wine bar
One of the city’s most sleek and comfortable cocktail and wine bars. 37bis rue du Sentier, 2nd · 7pm–2am daily.
Experimental Cocktail Club bar / CoCKTaiLS
The original address for the city’s very own cocktail mafia, this relaxed, speakeasystyle bar boasts a serious cocktail list; come and drink with those in the know. 37 rue St-Sauveur, 2nd · 6pm–2am (Fri & Sat 5am). Closed Sun.
Harry’s Bar bar / CoCKTaiLS / mYThiC
‘Just tell the taxi driver: Sank Roo Doe Noo’ goes the bar’s slogan. It probably served Hemingway well back in the 20s, around the time the Bloody Mary was invented here (or so the story goes). This cult, century-old bar remains an oasis of New York culture in Paris. 5 rue Daunou, 2nd · www.harrysbar.fr · Noon–2am daily.
Silencio
don’T miSS
CLub / LiVe muSiC
Dress up, then let it all hang out, intellectually speaking, at the glam basement club designed by David Lynch (members only till midnight). 142 rue Montmartre, 2nd · www.silencio-club.com · 6pm–6am. Closed Sun.
Social Club CLub / LiVe muSiC
Basement club for the electro kids with good sound, an even better programme, and a futuristic decor inspired by the film Tron. 142 rue Montmartre, 2nd · www.parissocialclub.com · Wed–Sat 11pm–6am.
Le Tigre bar / CLub
Beautiful young things dance to Bloc Party, The Clash or Depeche Mode in another rock’n’roll velvet boudoir. 5 rue Molière, 1st · tigrebylalternative.fr · 11pm–late; Wed–Sat club, Sun–Tue bar.
Très Honoré Bar bar / CoCKTaiLS
Skip the neo-Scandinavian dining trip upstairs and head straight to the big shadowy basement where a black-lacquered altar to cocktails and decadence awaits you. 35 place du Marché St-Honoré, 1st · 7pm–2am daily.
Truskel CLub / grungY / LiVe muSiC
There’s Guinness on tap at this cool London-style pub/club with a nightly programme of indie gigs and DJ sets. 12 rue Feydeau, 2nd · www.truskel.com · 6pm (4.45pm Sat)–5am. Closed Sun, Mon.
shopping Aesop beauTY
The botanical Australian skincare brand’s St-Honoré store is another unique interior: a spectacular homage to Parisian parquetry in Victorian ash. 256 rue St-Honoré, 1st (+ branches) · www.aesop-europe.com · 11am (noon Mon)–7pm. Closed Sun.
to listen to BERTRAND BELIN PARCS (CINQ 7 / WAGRAM)
18
Etienne marcel / saint-honorE
Agnès b.
Le Carrousel du Louvre
Comme des Garçons parfums
fashion / mens / kids
MALL / open sun
perfume
The emblematic French designer and contemporary arts patron opened her first boutique here back in 1975. Today you’ll find the whole empire devoted to chic basics, across women’s fashion, menswear and kidswear.
This lofty mall underneath the Louvre Pyramid is perfect for rainy days shopping at chains like Virgin, Apple Store, Starbucks, L’Occitane, Mariage Frères or the only European outpost of Japanese stationary brand Delfonics.
A minimal bonbon of a space showcasing the brand’s range of innovative unisex perfumes.
2, 3, 6 & 19 rue du Jour, 1st · agnesb.com · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
99 rue de Rivoli, 1st · 10am–8pm daily.
Annick Goutal perfume
Causse gloves
This velvet-lined boudoir sells the French perfume house’s romantic range of scents, including their bestseller, Eau d’Hadrien.
A very contemporary setting by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte for the exquisite hand-made goods of this 19th-century French glovemaker.
14 rue de Castiglione, 1st · www.annickgoutal.com · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
12 rue de Castiglione, 1st · www.causse-gantier.fr · 10.30am–7pm (closed 2-3pm). Closed Sun.
Astier de Villatte Don’t miss
Chanel
INTERIORS
FASHION / MYTHIC
Superbly wonky whitewashed earthenware crockery that needs to be seen to be desired. Other items on sale include an annual diary that’s become a cult must-have item.
Coco set up the very first Chanel boutique in the Rue Cambon. Today, the brand's legendary black and white universe is still here and making waves, thanks to Monsieur Lagerfeld.
173 rue St-Honoré, 1st · www.astierdevillatte.com · 11am–7.30pm. Closed Sun.
31 rue Cambon, 1st (+ branches) · www.chanel.com · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Balenciaga FASHION / mens / wow
The store has been conceived as slices of different flagships from around the world. It’s a divine digital-age collage of colour, texture and surface. 336 rue St-Honoré, 1st (+ branches) · www.balenciaga.fr · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Barbara Bui
Chantal Thomass
23 place du Marché St-Honoré. 1st · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Dior Joaillerie JEWELLERY
Dior’s bijoux maestro Victoire de Castellane’s fantastical pieces – made from coloured stones set in elaborate enamel settings – are showcased here on the Place Vendôme; where else? 8 place Vendôme, 1st · www.diorjoaillerie.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
L’Eclaireur Don’t miss FASHION / mens / MULTIBRAND
Of the 5 luxury multi-brand boutiques owned by Armand and Martine Hadida, Rue Hérold is our fave: a secret place for fashion insiders. 10 rue Hérold, 1st (+ branches) · www.leclaireur.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Francesco Russo new shoes
If Paris was a brand of lingerie, it would probably look like Chantal Thomass’s ridiculously sexy collections.
The new footwear designer at Dior has just opened a very first boutique/ atelier for his luxury namesake line and takes a sculptural approach to shoe design.
211 rue St-Honoré, 1st · www.chantalthomass.fr · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
8 rue de Valois, 1st · www.francescorusso.fr · 10am-7pm. Closed Sun, Mon.
Christian Louboutin
Galeries Lafayette
lingerie
SHOES / MENS
department store
The Parisian designer of rock luxe ready-to-wear, shoes, bags and jewellery has created an international empire; this is where it all started for her back in the 80s.
His iconic red-soled heels are worn by femme-fatales the world over. The dreamy flagship in the designer’s native city is now paired with a dedicated men’s store on the other side of the Galerie Véro-Dodat.
23 rue Etienne Marcel, 1st · www.barbarabui.fr · 11am–7.30pm. Closed Sun.
19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1st · www.christianlouboutin.com · 10.30am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Most famous for the century-old ‘cupola’ that towers over the beauty department, Galeries Lafayette remains familyowned and dynamic. Track down its contemporary art space, the Galerie des Galeries, hidden inside the va-va-voom luxury department.
BookMarc
Colette don’t miss
fashion
books
Marc Jacobs imports his book counter from Bleeker Street NYC to Paris. Think a giant mood board featuring a sexy mix of low and high culture, art and photography books, priceless first and limited editions, or new paperbacks. 17 place du Marché St-Honoré, 1st · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
CONCEPT STORE / fashion / MENS / multibrand / MYTHIC
The original Parisian concept store continues to surf the zeitgeist via a truly inspired selection of fashion, accessories, street wear, cosmetics, books and many other highly covetable limited editions.
40 bd Haussmann, 9th · www.galerieslafayette.com · 9.30am–8pm (9pm Thu). Closed Sun.
Goyard BAGS / MYTHIC
These old-school monogrammed leather goods outclass Vuitton for exclusivity. See across the street for their dapper pet-paraphernalia satellite. 233 rue St-Honoré, 1st · www.goyard.com · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
213 rue St-Honoré, 1st · www.colette.fr · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
gogoparis.com
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Maison Michel NEW / DON’T MISS
Heimstone
Kitsuné don’t miss
Fashion
FASHION / MENS
HATS / POP-UP
20 rue Cambon, 1st (+ branches) · www.heimstone.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
The music label famous for launching bands like The Klaxons, Hot Chip or Boys Noize also produces luxury ‘Ivy League’ fashion for boys and girls. A space showcasing their 'Parisien' collection is to be found next door.
JC de Castelbajac
52 rue de Richelieu, 1st · www.kitsune.fr · 11am–7.30pm. Closed Sun.
Owned by Chanel since 1996; new AD Laetitia Crahay, accessories designer at Chanel, has been doing great things transforming the historic milliner into a hot Made in France accessories label with a host of celeb fans. This pop-up is open until at least the end of March.
Local talent Alix Petit mixes up fabric, texture and colour to create bright and sexy womenswear.
FASHION
Fashion’s rock’n’roll bad boy of the 70s and 80s, who liked to get down and dirty with the New York underground, continues to bring his colourful, pop sensibility to the world of Paris fashion.
Kokon to Zai FASHION / MENS / MULTIBRAND
19 rue Cambon, 1st · www.michel-paris.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun, Mon.
Maje
The Paris satellite of the avant-garde London store sells its ever-expanding own label, plus Cassette Playa, Bernhard Willhelm, Marjan Pejoski, Henrik Vibskov...
FASHION
49 rue Tiquetonne, 2nd · www.kokontozai.co.uk · 11.30am–7.30pm. Closed Sun.
267 rue St-Honoré, 1st (+ branches) · www.maje-paris.fr · 10.30am–7.30pm. Closed Sun.
perfume
KrisVan Assche new
Marc by Marc Jacobs
The resurrected French perfume house sells its own unique range of scents here, but also stocks an exclusive selection of rare elixirs from brands including Andy Tauer, Humiecki & Graef, Vero Profumo or Xerjoff...
mens
FASHION / KNICK-KNACKS
The Dior Homme designer’s first flagship for his own-name menswear label. The two-storey space, designed by popular Paris-based crew Ciguë (Aesop, Melinda Gloss, Isabel Marant…) is a masculine concentration of raw and minimal chic.
A fun, young diffusion line selling bags, clothes, books and all kinds of knickknacks, for everything from 1D to 1000D.
16 rue St Roch, 1st · www.krisvanassche.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Marc le Bihan
10 rue Vauvilliers, 1st (+ branches) · www.jc-de-castelbajac.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Jovoy
4 rue de Castiglione, 1st · www.jovoyparis.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Kabuki Femmes FASHION / MULTIBRAND
Maison Fabre
Classy two-floor multi-brand space stocks Balmain, YSL and Miu Miu. Their nearby shoe store (13 rue Turbigo) is worth a stop too.
gloves
Fourth generation ‘Made in France’ luxury glovemakers.
This successful and sophisticated Parisian label gives you catwalk looks for half the price.
19 place du Marche St-Honoré, 1st · www.marcjacobs.com · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
eyewear
The original store in Paris for the master of the cool frame, with a selection of the best models by the big guns, from Linda Farrow to Alexander Wang. 22 rue Étienne Marcel, 1st (+branches) · www.marclebihan.fr · 10.30am–7.30pm. Closed Sun.
25 rue Etienne Marcel, 1st · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
128-129 galerie de Valois, Jardins du PalaisRoyal, 1st · www.maisonfabre.com · 10.30am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Kenzo don’t miss
Maison Francis Kurkdjian
cakes / chocolate
FASHION / MENS
DON’T MISS / perfume
Carol & Humberto from New York’s trendsetting Opening Ceremony are now at the helm of Kenzo, bringing the house smash bang up to date!
A very special store dedicated to an exquisite range of perfumes from the talented eponymous nose.
With the same 19th-century vibe, but expanding beyond Ladurée’s exquisite pastel palette, the new dedicated chocolate company sells chocolates, plus choc-rich macaroons, cakes and pastries in this, their only shop in the world.
3 place des Victoires, 1st (+ branches) · www.kenzo.com · 11am (noon Mon)–7.30pm. Closed Sun.
Kiliwatch don’t miss FASHION / MENS / OPEN SUN / VINTAGE
Vintage threads are the draw at this buzzing clothes emporium, which also stocks a good selection of new jeans and sneakers. 64 rue Tiquetonne, 2nd · espacekiliwatch.fr · 11am (2pm Mon)–7pm daily.
spring / summer 2014
5 rue d’Alger, 1st · www.franciskurkdjian.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Maison Martin Margiela
Les Marquis de Ladurée new
14 rue de Castiglione, 1st · www.lesmarquisdeladuree.com 10.30am–7.30pm. Closed Sun.
DON’T MISS / FASHION / mens
Monsieur Margiela may have left the building, but his whitewashed world still excites. Over two floors and two stores you’ll find the complete universe: mens and womenswear lines, shoes, jewellery, accessories and objets. 23 & 25bis rue de Montpensier, 1st. (+ branches) · www.maisonmartinmargiela.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
MM6 NEW FASHION
After a first store in New York in 2012 comes this Paris flagship for the new Margiela diffusion line, a more affordable and accessible line of mixand-match basics. 222 Marché St-Honoré, 1st · www.maisonmartinmargiela.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
20
etienne MArCeL / sAint-Honore
Le Mont St Michel don’T miSS faShion / menS
The quality French knitwear brand gets up to date with edgy designs, including a men’s collection designed with Belgian electro outfit Das Pop. 29 rue du Jour, 1st (+ branches) · www.lemontsaintmichel.fr · 9am–7pm (closed 1–2pm). Closed Sun.
Nature & Design STuffed animaLS
A Right Bank equivalent to the famous Deyrolle, but with a more contemporary vibe, dedicated to the magical worlds of taxidermy and entomology. 4 rue Aboukir, 2nd · www.designetnature.fr · 10am–7pm (closed 1–2pm). Closed Sun.
Pierre Hardy ShoeS
Buzz to enter this sleek all-black store housing Mr Hardy's beautiful shoes. 156 galerie de Valois, 1st (+ branches) · www.pierrehardy.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Printemps deParTmenT STore / wifi
Printemps’ pretty Belle Époque building has been restored, but the department store has also been radically transformed into a high-fashion destination, now boasting some of the most hyped labels of the moment. 64 bd Haussmann, 9th · www.printemps.com · 9.35am–8pm (10pm Thu). Closed Sun.
Rick Owens faShion
Gothic luxe from the LA ex-pat whose drapey somber womenswear tames yards of cashmere, fur and leather. 130 galerie de Valois, 1st · www.rickowens.eu · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Stohrer CaKeS / deLi / oPen Sun
Paris’s oldest patisserie has been serving up exquisitely pricey morsels to the hoi polloi since before the Revolution. 51 rue Montorgueil, 2nd · www.stohrer.fr · 7.30am–8.30pm daily.
Terroirs d’Avenir new / don’T miSS groCerY
Exceptional fresh fruit and vegetables, wild foraged plants and herbs, cheeses, cereals, oil and vinegars, quality meat,
charcuterie and poultry, and fish sourced from small producers around France, but also Spain, Italy and Greece. 7 rue du Nil, 2nd · 01 45 08 48 80 · 9.30am–8.30pm; 9am–9pm Sat; 9am–1pm Sun. Closed Mon.
Tsé & Tsé Associés deSign / inTeriorS / KniCK KnaCKS
The playful French design duo make everything from fine porcelain crockery to funky Istanbul-inspired belts. And now they have their own shop.
Yohji Yamamoto faShion / menS
The men’s & women’s collections by the experimental fashion genius float inside a signature ‘white box’, whose windows are dressed with a beautiful folded Shojigami sculpture. 4 rue Cambon, 1st · www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
7 rue St Roch, 1st · www.tse-tse.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Vanessa Bruno faShion
Bruno is the womenswear designer who just about epitomises Parisian chic – well-cut, urban fashion that can take you from work to dinner to dancing with nary a change of lipstick. 12 rue de Castiglione, 1st (+ branches) · www.vanessabruno.com · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Véronique Leroy faShion
A fixture on the Paris fashion week calendar, this Belgian designer shows off her classy but comfortable collections here, in her only store in the world. 10 rue d’Alger, 1st · www.veroniqueleroy.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Viktor & Rolf new don’T miSS / faShion / menS
On the 20th anniversary of their brand, the avant-garde Dutch fashion duo has opened a first flagship worldwide, here in Paris, where they already present their collections each season. The monochrome, mono-material space is decked out in grey felt, a ‘ghost architecture’ that references the duo’s all-grey first collection of 2003. 370 rue St-Honoré, 1st · www.viktor-rolf.com · 10.30am–7pm. Closed Sun.
WH Smith
L’Eglise St-Eustache ChurCh / monumenT
Built between 1532 and 1632, this magnificent Gothic and Renaissance church has a suitably rich history and boasts paintings by Rubens, a silver sculpture by Keith Haring commemorating AIDS, and France’s largest organ! Its parish remains deeply engaged with the life of the neighbourhood. 2 impasse St-Eustache, 1st · 9.30am–7pm daily · www.saint-eustache.org
Le Jardin des Tuileries ParKS & gardenS / mYThiC
Legendary garden designer Le Nôtre, of Versailles fame, also designed this, the Louvre’s formal French-style garden, and the oldest in Paris. There’s not a season that the Tuileries is not a delicious destination for a promenade.
Opéra Garnier monumenT
This ornate 19th-century monument is home to the Paris Ballet, and the opulent Grand Foyer is a must-see. It even produces its own honey from rooftop hives, which features on the menu of its chichi restaurant. Place de l’Opéra, 9th · www.operadeparis.fr
booKS / oPen Sun
The city’s biggest English-language bookshop boasts a fine international press section, plus an upstairs corner devoted to Brit produce for nostalgic expats. 248 rue de Rivoli, 1st · www.whsmith.fr · 9am–6pm. Closed Sun.
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Artus de Lavilléon Artus de Lavilléon is an artist whose work focuses on both the “brutal testimony of life,” and the “archiving of daily life”. He is known for his large black-and-white drawings, a vibrant performance in the windows of Printemps or voluntary confinement in the Citadium store in Paris, and the drafting of his “posthumous art manifesto”, which demands life before art, amateurism over the professionalism of nothing, and the right not to assert ‘I do therefore I am,’ but rather ‘I am therefore I am’. artusdelavilleon.com
Boulevard Beaumarchais Professional and amateur photographers come to this street to buy their equipment. The Leica flagship store is my favourite.
FNAC It’s hard for me to recommend the FNAC, as it’s a chain. However, in terms of books it’s possible to find everything and read it all while you’re there!
from the Kebab shop on the corner of Rue des Archives is absolutely delicious.
52 bd Beaumarchais, 11th.
www.fnac.com
BHV Marais You can find anything at BHV, especially in the basement. Don’t miss the cafeteria, the view is fantastic.
La Fontaine des Innocents The place to chill with skateboarders, friendly riffraff (before night falls), tourists and junk-food connoisseurs. One can observe the RER wildlife entering the soon-to-be-renovated Paris Les Halles transport hub. This place is constantly re-inventing itself.
Script Laser I go here for photocopies. It’s in the watchmaking quarter, very close to Beaubourg. It’s always hard to know where to find a copy shop abroad, no?
36 rue de la Verrerie, 4th · www.bhv.fr
Chez Shen The Chinese restaurants on rue au Maire (Paris 3) are a Marais institution. Not many people know that the Marais was, in fact, Paris’s first Chinatown. My favourite is Chez Shen, the first restaurant on the street. 39 rue au Maire, 3rd.
Place Joachim-du-Bellay, 1st.
Patricia Dorfmann Gallery A good place to view my work and that of other artists. What’s more, the owner is a wonderful woman! And, the couscous
61 rue de la Verrerie, 4th · www.patriciadorfmann.com
5-7 rue Bernard de Clairvaux, 3rd · www.scriptlaser.com
Comptoir de L’image A shop specialising in second-hand photography books. What an incredible mess! The seller always has good recommendations, especially concerning American photography, which is my favourite. 44 rue de Sévigné, 3rd · www.comptoirimage.net
notes
GOGOPARiS.COM
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spring / summer 2014 gogoparis.com
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