GOGO PARIS: Spring / Summer 2016 ISBN: 978-2-919474-16-5 Eleventh edition Š Gogo City Guides 2010–2016
Gogo City Guides Ltd., Pinnacle House, 1st Floor, 31 Cross Lances Road, Hounslow, TW3 2AD, UK. www.gogocityguides.com All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission from the publisher.
— Biannual Edition
7 This Season in Paris 16 Hangouts 24 Directory 29 Transport — 33 Etienne Marcel / Saint-Honoré 47 Marais 59 Left Bank 71 Champs-Elysées 81 Montmartre / Pigalle 91 Canal Saint-Martin / Oberkampf / Belleville 103 Bastille — 112 Hotels 116 Index Alphabetical 119 Index By Tags
Paris, FR
News & Trends Fashion - New Blood at Balenciaga, Dior, Lanvin Just days after Alexander Wang presented his swan song in October, Balenciaga announced the appointment of its new creative director Demna Gvasalia. If fashion insiders had noticed the buzz around the young Paris label Vetements, no-one was expecting the head of this edgy collective to snag the top job at the historic fashion house. He presents his first collection, for AW16, during Paris Fashion Week in March. And after the surprise defection of Raf Simons from Dior last Oct, followed by an acrimonious split between Alber Elbaz and Lanvin the same month, the fashion industry is buzzing with anticipation over who will take the reins at these houses.
Demna Gvasalia
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Art Chief curator for the Pompidou Centre, Christine Macel has been named Director of the Visual Arts for the 2017 Venice Biennale.
Tour Triangle, Herzog & de Meuron
Archi - Herzog & de Meuron Skyscraper Approved The innovative Swiss architects’ Tour Triangle project finally received planning permission in 2015, after a first unsuccessful attempt in 2014, thus ending Paris’s 40 year embargo on skyscrapers. Since 2010, Paris planning law permits construction of residential towers up to 50 metres gogocityguides.com
and office blocks up to 180 metres. Though many remain opposed to changes to the city’s classic, low-rise skyline. Once completed, the controversial 42-floor tower will become the city’s 3rd tallest building, after the Eiffel Tower (324m.) and the Montparnasse Tower (209m.). Planned for the Porte de Versailles neighbourhood, the building is to house a 120-room hotel, office spaces, plus cultural and community facilities. tour-triangle.com
This Season in Paris
Food - Rue du Nil
Giovanni Passerini behind the counter at Pastificio Passerini
Gregory Marchand first put the Rue du Nil on the map when he opened his restaurant Frenchie there back in 2009. Since then the cobbled alleyway in the Sentier district has become a gourmet Eldorado with the Frenchie empire now also counting a wine bar, a take-away counter, and most recently a wine shop. Added to this is Terroirs d’Avenir and its 4 shopfronts –fishmonger, butcher, grocery and the new bakery – selling excellent produce sourced from small producers around Europe. And without forgetting the icing on the cake: craft coffee destination L’Arbre à Café.
Eat & Drink - Spring Restaurant Openings The much-loved chef-owner Giovanni Passerini of the nowclosed Rino prepares to open his new restaurant Restaurant Passerini – a trattoria totale – at 65 rue Traversière, 75012, in April, just next door to his new fresh pasta shop (pg 108). Jean-François Piège, already at the helm of perfect local bistro Clover (pg 61), as well as his new gastronomic restaurant Le Grand Restaurant (pg 73) is preparing his grill restaurant Clover Grill for this spring at 6 rue Bailleul, 75001. Also on Rue
Bailleul, chef Daniel Rose, of Spring (pg 37) and La Bourse & La Vie (pg 34) restaurants, prepares to resuscitate the quintessential Les Halles bistro Chez la Vieille. The Fish Club is set to reopen at 58 rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau with an overhauled seafood menu by Julien Burlat, the Michelinstarred chef of Antwerp’s Dôme restaurant. And finally, the Sardinian chef of the much-missed Roseval, Simone Tondo is preparing to open his new restaurant Tondo soon. Spring Summer 16
News - Bataclan to Reopen in 2016 Of the six sites targeted by the Islamic State gunmen on 13 November, the Bataclan suffered the most casualties, with 90 deaths and 200 injured. One of the owners Jules Frutos declared “The best homage we can give to the victims would be to reopen as soon as possible...” And the Eagles of Death Metal, who were playing the night of the massacre, have pledged to play the opening night. 9
Sarah Andelman
Sarah is creative director of Paris’s landmark concept store Colette. She set up the space back in 1997 with her mother Colette, and for more than 15 years her instinctive edit and generous and creative spirit have kept the shop on the map. One of the retail greats, Colette is a vector and an engine for invention and fun. The first and faithful stockist of designers including Jeremy Scott, Raf Simons, Rodarte, Mary Katrantzou, and Sacai to name just a few, Sarah has a talent for nurturing talent, creating bridges between luxury and street culture, curating surprising designer collabs, and putting on some great parties! www.colette.fr
Clover & Le Grand Restaurant by Jean-François Piège Just the best! ©Darcel
www.clover-paris.com; www.jeanfrancoispiege.com
Spring
For Daniel Rose’s unique cooking; and don’t miss his new place La Bourse et la Vie. www.springparis.fr
Gyoza Bar
One choice only: 6, 12 or 24. I always go for 24! Delicious, plus it’s great fun to sit at the bar and watch the cooking. 56 Passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris.
Ladurée
For the macaroons and their unique mix of crunchy and soft.
Sara
It’s a good option when there’s a long queue at Kunitoraya. Thanks to them, I discovered sara means new in Japanese. www.facebook.com/restaurantsobasara
Verjus
For the delicious menu, and I don’t drink but I know there’s a great wine selection too. verjusparis.com
Ellsworth
For the fried chicken. www.ellsworthparis.com
Palais-Royal
Just for a promenade.
Tuileries Garden
Trampolining with the kids.
www.laduree.com
Kunitoraya
I’ve been a fan of Kunitoraya for 20 years! I love their tempura noodles. www.kunitoraya.com
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Directory
Addresses
Cell Phones, see Mobile Phones
Paris is made up of 20 arrondissements, spiralling outwards in a clockwise direction from the 1st arrondissement in the centre. The last two digits of postcodes indicate the arrondissement: so 75002 is the 2nd arrondissement, etc. Arrondissements are indicated on the blue enamel street signs, above the street name. Home addresses can be quite complicated: to get into a building off the street you will usually need a code for the outside door, then the letter indicating which staircase to take, the floor number, then the position of the apartment (right, left etc). Bis and ter after a building number are the eqivalent of ‘b’ or ‘c’ and indicate a separate address. The name of Métro stations and arrondissements are used to explain where you are or where you’re going: “Just got out at Pigalle, walking down to Hotel Amour in the 9th...”
Clubbing
Babysitting One agency offering anglophone babysitters is Baby Speaking (baby-speaking.fr/en/). It’s best to call and ask for an English-speaking member of staff rather than reserve online. The typical rate starts from around 9–11€ per hour, with a minimum of 3 hours. You can also check the ads on the Paris edition of Craigslist: paris.fr.craigslist.fr/kid
Banking, see Money Booking Tickets The main websites for reserving tickets are Fnac (www.fnacspectacles. com) and Digitick (www.digitick.com). On both sites you can choose English under langue. Both offer a full range of options, covering both electronic and printed tickets.
Clubs don’t tend to get going until 1am or 2am, so plan to go out late. Many clubs have ‘elitist’ door policies, so try not to turn up in a big group of drunk men. Admission charges can often include a free drink (consommation), and drinks in general tend to be quite pricey (12-14€ a cocktail). It’s common to buy a bottle of alcohol rather than rounds by the glass, especially if you want a table.
Condoms Preservatifs, as they’re called here, are sold in pharmacies and supermarkets, and there are condom vending machines in most Métro stations as well as in bars and clubs.
Cost of Living Baguette ‘tradition’ 1.10€; Big Mac 4.35€; cinema ticket 11€; pack of Marlboro 7€; espresso 2€; International New York Times 3€.
Credit Cards, see Money Dentists Dentists can be found on the Pages Jaunes website (www.pagesjaunes.fr) under dentistes. For emergencies contact: Hôpital de la PitiéSalpêtrière (13th. 01 42 16 14 41) the only dental hospital with extended hours (6am–10.30pm). After 5.30pm use the emergency entrance at 83 bd de l’Hôpital, 13th (Métro St-Marcel). SOS Dentaire (01 43 37 51 00 | 87 bd de Port Royal, 13th) is a private dental office that offers (night & weekend) services when most dentists are off-duty.
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Dining We have categorised each restaurant featured in the guide by the average price of a main meal: € : under 15€; €€: 15€–25€; €€€: 25€–35€; and €€€€ : 35€+. Places charging less than 10€ a meal have also been tagged ‘budget’, find them in the INDEX on page 120. Meal times are fairly strictly observed in Paris. Lunch time is between noon and 2.30pm and dinner from 8pm onwards. Outside of these times, you’ll need to find a service continu place (we've tagged these as ‘nonstop’, see page 124). It’s usual to meet up with friends at 7pm for an apéro, or pre-dinner drink. It’s common, but not obligatory, to tip around 10%.
Doctors Doctors can be found on the Pages Jaunes website (www.pagesjaunes. fr) under ‘médecin généraliste’. Consultations with a doctor who is ‘conventionné secteur 1’ will cost 23€, but ‘secteur 2’ can charge what they like. For emergencies contact: SOS Médecins (01 47 07 77 77; 24hr house calls 36 24; www.sosmedecins.com) Urgences Médicales de Paris Paris Medical Emergencies; (01 53 94 94 94 | www.ump.fr) Both offer 24-hour house calls costing between 35€ and 90€ depending on the time of day and whether you are covered by French social security.
Drinking & Drugs The legal drinking age is 18 but you are not usually required to provide ID when buying alcohol. Like most major capitals, there are plenty of drugs around, and the amount of people smoking hash in public places can be surprising at first. But keep in mind that all drugs are illegal in France and the police have the right to stop and search anyone. If caught,
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Getting To & From Paris AIRPORT Charles De Gaulle Charles De Gaulle (Roissy), 30km north east of Paris, is Paris’s major airport for international flights. There are three terminals; make sure you know which one you’re landing in/leaving from. CDGVAL is a free light rail metro system that connects terminals, train stations and remote car parks, and runs every 4 mins between 4am–1am. www.aeroportsdeparis.fr — The RER B train line links the airport to Paris and its suburbs and is the quickest route into Paris, taking about 50 mins to get to the centre (Châtelet les Halles, via Gare du Nord). The RER train makes two stops, for Terminal 1 & 2, but you will need to then take the CDGVAL shuttle to connect to Terminal 1. You can walk to Terminal 3 from Terminal 1. Tickets cost 9.75€ for a single and trains run every 10–15 mins, from around 5am–midnight daily. www.ratp.fr — There are two Air France Buses servicing the airport. The first leaves from Etoile (1 ave Carnot) via Porte Maillot (bd Gouvion St Cyr) and runs every 30 mins from 6am–11pm daily. The trip takes around 1 hour and costs 16.20€. The second leaves from Gare Montparnasse (rue du Commandant Mouchotte) via the Gare du Lyon (20bis bd Diderot), runs every 30 mins from 6am–10pm daily and takes around 1 hour 15 mins (16.60€). You can buy tickets online. www.lescarsairfrance.com — The RoissyBus runs every 15–20 mins from 5.15am–12.30am daily, departing from Opéra (corner rue
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Scribe and rue Auber). Journey time is 60 mins and the fare is 10.50€. www.ratp.fr — The 350 bus runs from both airport terminals (1, 2A, 2B) to Gare de l'Est takes 80 mins and runs every 15–35 mins between 5.30am–10pm. The 351 bus runs to Nation, takes around 80–90 mins, and runs every 30 mins from around 5.30am–9.30pm daily. You can buy tickets on board, 6€. — The Easybus runs every 30 mins from 4.30am to midnight. The bus arrives and departs outside Sortie 5 on the arrivals (ground floor) level at Terminal 2F and the journey to Paris centre (3 place Andre Malraux, 1st) takes approx. 60 mins. A single ticket costs between 2.99€ and 9.99€ and you can add a return for 2€. The earlier you book online, the more you save. You can also buy tickets from the driver, though tickets will cost considerably more. www.easybus.co.uk — A taxi ride takes about 30–60 mins depending on traffic and will cost around 50€, plus 1€ per item of luggage. Look for signs indicating taxi stands from your arrivals terminal. — There are also shuttle services that will pick you up from your hotel or apartment and drive you to the airport, 24/7. Prices vary but expect to pay about 25€ for one person and 40€ for two. Google ‘airport shuttle’ to find companies, here’s two we know: Airport Airport Service www.arisairportservice.com and Super Shuttle www.supershuttle.fr.
Orly An emblematic building when it first opened in 1961, Orly airport flaunted a radical new architecture of glass, steel and concrete, part of a new urban model that Jacques
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Tati parodied in his film Play Time, whose opening scenes take place there. 18km south of Paris, Orly is now a secondary airport dedicated to domestic and inter-European flights. www.aeroportsdeparis.fr — From RER B station Antony, take the Orlyval shuttle train to the airport. The journey takes about 25 mins on the RER from Châtelet-LesHalles plus 8 mins on the Orlyval and costs 11.65€. The Orlyval runs every 4–7 mins. — The RER C station Pont de Rungis is linked to the airport by the ‘Paris par le train’ bus service which runs to Gare d’Austerlitz in Paris. The journey takes 25 mins on the train, plus 10 mins on the bus and costs 6.70€. Trains run every 20 mins on weekdays. Trains run from Gare d’Austerlitz between 5am–1am. — Air France buses run every 20 mins from 5am–midnight daily, stopping at Montparnasse, Invalides & Etoile. The trip takes around 1 hour and costs 12.50€. www.lescarsairfrance.com — The OrlyBus (8.50€) runs every 20 mins from Place DenfertRochereau (14th), between 5.30am–11.30pm, and takes around 30 mins. — A taxi takes around 20–40 mins and will cost around 35€, plus 1€ per item of luggage. — There are also shuttle services that will pick you up from your hotel or apartment and drive you to the airport, 24/7. See info under Charles de Gaulle.
Beauvais 70km from Paris, Beauvais airport is served by 4 low-cost airlines (Ryan Air, Wizzair, Blue Air, Air Moldova). A shuttle bus service runs between
Transport
the airport and Porte Maillot in Paris. Buses leave the airport 20 minutes following each arrival, and depart from Porte Maillot 3 hours 15 mins before each departure. Tickets (17€/ 15.90€ online) can be bought at the arrivals lounge and on the bus. www.aeroportbeauvais.com
Le Bourget Le Bourget, 11km north of Paris, is dedicated to private jets. The private car company Air Limousines (01 74 37 77 77) services Le Bourget. www.airlimousines.fr
TRAINS Eurostar The Very Fast Train linking Paris to London arrives and departs from a dedicated, secured area, upstairs at Gare du Nord station, in central Paris. From here you can continue your journey by metro (lines 4 and 5), RER B & D, taxi or bus. www.eurostar.com
Thalys The Very Fast Train linking Paris to Brussels, Amsterdam, Cologne and other destinations in the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany also arrives at the Gare du Nord. From here you can continue your journey by metro (lines 4 and 5), RER B & D, taxi or bus. www.thalys.com
SNCF / TGV The national French railway service, the SNCF, connects Paris to the rest of the country and beyond by train. Some destinations are served by the high-speed TGV train which departs from the main train stations in Paris (Gare du Nord, Gare de l’Est, Montparnasse, Gare
du Lyon, Saint-Lazare, Bercy, Austerlitz). www.voyages-sncf.com | www.tgv.com
Getting Around Paris Public transport in Paris is reliable and efficient. The service runs from around 5.30am–1am. A single, one-use ticket for central Paris costs 1.80€ or you can buy a ‘carnet’ (a book of 10 tickets that can be used on bus and metro) for 14.10€ at any metro station. A ‘Paris Visite’ 5-day travel card costs 38.20€. A more cost-effective option is the chargeable Passe Navigo Découverte which, unlike the ordinary Passe Navigo, is available for those visiting Paris. The card itself costs 5€ and can be bought in stations (you just need to provide a passport photo) and it can then be charged up for the week (20.40€ for Zones 1 & 2, which cover central Paris, valid from Mon– Sun regardless of the day of purchase) or the month (67.10€ for zones 1&2, valid from the 1–31 of the month). www.ratp.fr
Metro Probably the fastest and cheapest way of getting around Paris, the Parisian Métro covers central Paris and beyond and runs frequently between 5.30am and 1am Sun–Thu, 2am Fri– Sat. The easy-to-navigate network comprises 14 intersecting lines that are colour and number coded. The direction of any train is indicated by the name of its final destination. A good rule of thumb for calculating the time of a trip is 2 minutes per station and 5 minutes per transfer, or ‘correspondance’.
RER The RER train network consists of 5 lines (A-E) running from 5.30am–1am daily through central Paris to the suburbs; it can be useful crossing
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large distances within Paris, because there are so few stops, and it will also take you out of town to destinations including Versailles or Eurodisney. Regular tickets are valid on the RER for zones 1 and 2, otherwise you’ll need to buy a separate ticket (for example, 4.10€ one-way between Gare de l’Est and Versailles).
Buses Metro tickets or passes are used on buses too, and you can also purchase a ticket directly from the driver (1.90€). Punch your ticket or beep your pass at the machine next to the driver. Press the red button to request the next stop. Finding the right bus route and where to catch it requires some research. The challenge of the bus system is that, as many Paris streets are one-way, a bus route is different depending on which direction it’s going in. As well as a network of regular day buses, there are 47 night buses that operate between 12.30 and 5.30am, when the rest of the public transport system is closed. This ‘Noctilien’ service runs from the main central stations (Châtelet, Gare de l’Est, Montparnasse, Gare St Lazare, Gare de Lyon) to the suburbs. In central Paris, nightbuses run every 10–30 minutes or so. They have a good website, with an English language option. www.vianavigo.com
Vélib Paris is pretty small (only 35km circumference around the péripherique, or ring road), so, weather permitting, one of the most practical ways to get around is by bike, using the popular municipal ‘Vélib’ bike hire service for example, introduced back in 2007. Bikes can be picked up from any of the 1500+ vélib stations around Paris, and then returned to a different station at destination, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Buy your tickets from the machines at Vélib stations; they cost
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Notes
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10th, 11th, 19th & 20th.
10th, 11th, 19th & 20th Arrondissements / Parmentier République, Gare de l’Est Strasbourg St Denis Menilmontant Getting around
North-east of Place de la République runs the Canal St-Martin neighbourhood, also accessible from Métro Jacques Bonsergent, and even Gare de l’Est. On the other side of the Bd Magenta you’ll find an interesting micro-quarter spread out around the Rue du Faubourg St-Denis. The Oberkampf neighbourhood is situated north-east of the Canal, near Metro Parmentier. Metro Belleville is at the heart of one of Paris’s 3 Chinatowns, and the area is also being infiltrated by new art galleries. The lovely Buttes Chaumont park is further north.
Paris’s former industrial heartland is now the shabby-chic hq of bohemian good times. The Canal St-Martin neighbourhood, with its picturesque cast-iron footbridges straddling the leafy waterway, is a delicious destination for spring and summer strolling. Linger on café terraces, mooch around the shops, or picnicon the canal bank itself with everyone else (and possibly too many apprentice guitarists) on sunny Sunday afternoons. If you prefer edgier indoor high-jinks, the bars around Oberkampf offer plenty of noisy, acoustic, electro, club or concert nightlife options. Spring Summer 16
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Art, Culture, Design Le 104 ART
Art is not dead! This former city mortuary is now a monumental arts space boasting a dense cultural programme, two restaurants, a couple of shops, a pizza truck and an organic market on the weekend. 5 rue Curial, 19th | www.104.fr | Noon (11am Sat, Sun)–7pm. Closed Mon.
Marcel Duchamp Prize winner Cyprien Gaillard.
7–9 rue de l’Équerre, 19th | www. bugadacargnel.com | 2–7pm, Wed–Sat.
Galerie Crèvecoeur ART
This dynamic young gallery, one of the pioneers to set up in Belleville, has a great little stable of emerging international artists. 4 rue Jouye-Rouve, 20th | galeriecrevecoeur.com | Wed–Sat, 11am–7pm.
Balice Hertling ART
Another Belleville hotbed for emerging artists, with strong ties to the New York scene. The gallery often presents spectacular sitespecific installations.
47 rue Ramponeau, 20th | www.balicehertling.com | 2–7pm, Wed–Sat.
Bugada & Cargnel ART
A discerning selection of French and international emerging or established artists here, including
JAPANESE
An exciting hybrid of FrancoNippon low and high food culture. Mon and Sat they’re open non-stop serving a delicious meal-sized sandwich, and the rest of the week enjoy an amazingly creative and good-value tasting menu. 92 rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, 10th | 01 83 97 00 00 | Noon–2pm (3pm Sat), 8–10pm. Closed Mon dinner & Sun.
Au Passage € BAR / MODERN FRENCH / SMALL PLATES /
Eat & Coffee 10 Belles € DON’T MISS BREAKFAST / COFFEE / TAKE AWAY / TERRACE
This café by the Canal is part of the good coffee revolution currently sweeping Paris, but they’re paying equal attention to the food. The talented ladies from another don’t-miss spot, Le Bal Café, bring their signature fresh Brit vibe to the menu. 10 rue de la Grange aux Belles, 10th | No reservations | www.tenbelles.com | 8am–6pm; 9am–7pm Sat, Sun.
New Atelier Beaurepaire, The Beans on Fire, Dilia, L’Epicerie Végetale, Grand Amour Hotel, Gros, Hôtel Providence, L’Institut de Bonté, La Méduse, Paname Brewing Company, Salt... 92
Abri €€
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WIFI
Hidden down an alleyway, this great local bistro from talented expat chefs serves natural wines and quality produce via upbeat small plates at night.
1bis passage St-Sébastien, 11th | 01 43 55 07 52 | 7pm–1.30am. Closed Sun.
La Baratin €€ MODERN FRENCH
Excellent creative French fare by an Argentinian chef paired with natural wines in a cosy setting. 3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 20th | 01 43 49 39 70 | Noon–2pm, 7.30–11pm. Closed Sat lunch & Sun, Mon.
The Beans on Fire € NEW BREAKFAST
/ COFFEE / TAKE AWAY /
TERRACE
A coffee shop with a collaborative roasting facility that functions like a music studio for specialty coffee. Come and choose your brew from one of the wide variety of origins and roasting styles on offer. Or just sit on the terrace facing the pretty Square Gardette with your coffee and some of Paris’s best doughnuts. 7 rue du Général Blaise, 11th | No reservations | thebeansonfire.com | 9am–6pm. Closed Mon.
10th, 11th, 19th & 20th.
Bistro Bellet €€ DON’T MISS MODERN FRENCH
An elegant, upbeat bistro that delivers beautifully executed French classics, with a lean towards Mediterranean recipes, till late. The wine list is good value too. 84 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis, 10th | 01 45 23 42 06 | 6.30pm–midnight. Closed Sun, Mon.
Bob’s Juice Bar € DON'T MISS BUDGET / BREAKFAST / NON-STOP / TAKE
AWAY / ORGANIC / VEGAN / VEGETARIAN / WIFI
A tiny juice bar selling homemade muffins, soups and sandwiches as well as super-fresh juice from primarily organic ingredients and run by an affable New Yorker.
15 rue Lucien Sampaix, 10th | No reservations | www.bobsjuicebar.com | 7.30am–3pm; 8.30am–4pm Sat. Closed Sun.
Brasserie Flo €€ / OYSTERS / TERRACE A charming Belle-Epoque brasserie on a pedestrian cobble-stoned alleyway. In the winter fresh oysters are served from overloaded stands out front. CLASSIC FRENCH
7 Cour des Petites Écuries, 10th | www.brasserieflo-paris.com | Noon–3pm, 7–11pm (midnight Fri, Sat).
Café A € / TERRACE Inside a converted convent and surrounded by an idyllic garden halfway between the Gare de L’Est and the Canal St-Martin hides this great café. It’s a fave with locals for a peaceful coffee, lunch or evening aperitif. LIVE MUSIC
148 rue du Faubourg St-Martin, 10th | 09 81 29 83 38 | 10am–midnight. Closed Sun, Mon.
Café Craft € COFFEE
/ WIFI
This spot combines all the appeal of a cool café – great (Lomi) coffee, fresh juices, international mags, designer interior – with everything you need in a temporary office space. Bring your laptop and spend the day. 24 rue des Vinaigriers, 10th | No reservations | cafe-craft.com | 9am (10am Sun)–7pm.
Le Châteaubriand €€€ DON’T MISS
Clown Bar €€
DON’T MISS
/ MODERN FRENCH / TERRACE This pretty, listed bistro now has a menu on par with its gorgeous 1920’s interior. New owners Sven Chartier and Ewen Lemoigne from Saturne, with former Vivant Table chef Sota Atsumi in the kitchen, propose a small plates menu of contemporary French cuisine – with a hint of Japan. COCKTAILS
114 rue Amelot, 11th | 01 43 55 87 35 | 7.30am–1.30am. Closed Mon, Tue.
MODERN FRENCH
Sample wunderkind-chef-withthe-unpronouncable-name Inaki Aizpitarte’s insatiably creative and down-to-earth cuisine. The atmosphere is vocal and seeand-be-seen. (PS Reservations taken for first sitting only.)
129 av Parmentier, 11th | 01 43 57 45 95 | www.lechateaubriand.net | 7.30–11.30pm. Closed Sun, Mon.
Chatomat €€ MODERN FRENCH
One of the city’s most creative kitchens is wowing them from simple digs out in Ménilmontant.
6 rue Victor Letalle, 20th | 01 47 97 25 77 | 7.30–10.30pm. Closed Sun, Mon.
Chez Aline € BUDGET / DELI / TAKE AWAY This gourmet deli serves fresh and simple sandwiches and salads plus a dish of the day to go, or to eat in the cute retro 50s space.
85 rue de la Roquette, 11th | No reservations | 11am–5pm. Closed Sat, Sun.
Chez Prune € BREAKFAST / BRUNCH / CLASSIC FRENCH / TERRACE
Take a seat on the Canal St Martin’s emblematic café terrace and watch the local action. Inside has seen better days. 36 rue Beaurepaire, 10th | No reservations | 8am (10am Sun)–2am.
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Cream €€ / BRUNCH / COFFEE / TAKE / VEGETARIAN This coffee shop sources its beans from neighbouring Belleville Brûlerie. Open early, it’s a great breakfast spot, with home-made ginger cake or banana bread to go with your ‘cream.’ The homemade sandwiches at lunch are moreish too. BREAKFAST AWAY
50 rue de Belleville, 20th | No reservations | cream-belleville.tumblr.com | 7.30am–6.30pm; Sat, Sun 8.30am–7.30pm.
Le Daily Syrien € / FALAFEL / NON STOP / TAKE / VEGETARIAN This excellent falafel joint tucked in amongst the delis and Kurd take-aways on the bustling Rue du Faubourg St-Denis is also a newsstand. Feed your body and your spirit! BUDGET AWAY
55 rue du Faubourg-St-Denis, 10th | No reservations | 9am–10pm (6pm Sun, Mon).
Le Dauphin €€€ DON’T MISS / WOW Tapas-sized bites at the chic second venture from the dudes at Châteaubriand (see above), with a cool, marble lined fit-out by starchitect Rem Koolhaas with Clément Blanchet. SMALL PLATES
131 av Parmentier, 11th | 01 55 28 78 88 | www.restaurantledauphin.net | Tue–Sat, dinner; Tue–Fri, lunch.
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A to Z & Other Stories 10 Belles 13 Bonaparte 104 (Le) 66 (Le) 6 Paul Bert (Le) 7L A A la Cloche d’Or Abri Acne Studios Adieu Agnelle Agnès b. Alexis Mabille Altro (L’) Amarante (L’) Ami Ami Jean (L’) Amici Miei Anahi Andrea Crews Andy Wahloo Anne & Valentin Antirouille Antoine & Lili APC Rue Madame APC Surplus April 77 Arbre à Café (L’) Archive 18-20 Arnaud Delmontel Arpège (L’) Artazart Artcurial Café Artisan Arty Dandy As du Fallafel (L’) Astier de Villatte Atelier Beaurepaire Atypyk Au Passage Aurélie Bidermann Aux Deux Amis Avant Comptoir (L’) Avenue du Président Wilson Market Avril Gau Azzedine Alaia B Bachaumont Badaboum
116
38 92 52 92 76 104 63 82 92 52 38 38 38 63 60 104 52 60 104 49 52 51 52 86 98 63 86 52 38 52 86 60 98 73 84 63 49 38 98 86 92 63 96 60 74 64 74 34 106
Bague de Kenza (La) Bal (Le) Balades Sonores (Les) Balenciaga (St Honoré) Balenciaga (George V) Balenciaga Men Balibaris Balice Hertling Balmain Balouga Bar à Soupes (Le) Bar du Marché (Le) Bar du Plaza Athenée Baratin (La) Baron (Le) Baron Rouge (Le) Barthélémy Batofar Beans on Fire (The) Beaucoup Beef Club Beef Club Ballroom Belle Époque (La) Belle-Îloise (La) Belleville (China Town) Benoît Berthillon BHV Bistro Bellet Bistrot de Paris (Le) Bistrot Paul Bert Black Rainbow Bless Bleu de Paname Blueberry Bob’s Juice Bar Bob’s Kitchen Bois de Vincennes Bon Georges (Le) Bonaparte (Le) Bon Marché (Le) Bon Saint-Pourçain (Le) Bonpoint Bonton BookMarc Boot Café Born Bad Records Botte Gardiane (La) Bottleshop Bourse & La Vie (La) Braisenville Brasserie Barbès Brasserie Flo Brasserie Lipp
98 82 86 38 74 64 98 92 74 53 104 60 74 92 74 104 64 106 92 49 34 37 34 64 99 49 53 53 93 60 104 53 53 38 61 93 49 109 82 61 64 61 64 53 39 49 107 107 106 34 82 82 93 61
Bread & Roses Broken Arm (The) Bugada & Cargnel Buly 1783 Bus Palladium Buttes Chaumont Buvette Buvette (La)
72 53 92 64 84 99 82 96
C Café (Le) 34 Café A 93 Café Beaubourg 49 Café Charbon 96 Café Constant 61 Café Craft 93 Café Etienne Marcel 34 Café Français 104 Café de Flore 61 Café de l’Industrie 104 Café Francoeur 82 Café Kitsuné 34 Café Le Nemours 35 Café Lomi 82 Café Marly 35 Café de la Nouvelle Mairie 61 Café Suedois 49 Caféothèque (La) 49 Caffè Stern 35 Caillebotte 82 Camion qui Fume (Le) 72 Candelaria 51 Cannibale (Le) 96 Cantine California 49 Cantine de la Cigale (La) 83 Cantine Merci (La) 49 Capucine 105 Caravane 19 107 Carmen 84 Carpenters Workshop Gallery 48 Carrousel du Louvre (Le) 39 Carven 64 Castel 62 Castor Club 62 Causse 39 Causses 83 Cave du Paul Bert (La) 105 Celia Darling 86 Céline 75 Centre Commercial 98 Centre Pompidou 48 Chacha Club 37
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Chambelland 98 Chanel Cambon 39 Chanel Montaigne 75 Chantal Thomass 39 Châteaubriand (Le) 93 Chatomat 93 Chez Aline 93 Chez Denise 35 Chez Georges 35 Chez Jeannette 96 Chez Maman 39 Chez Miki 35 Chez Monsieur (Royal Madeleine) 37 Chez Moune 84 Chez Prune 93 Chez Raspoutine 74 Chez Taeko 50 Chine Machine 86 Chloé 39 Chocolat Alain Ducasse (Le) 107 Chouettes (Les) 50 Christian Louboutin 39 Cinémathèque Française 104 Cire Trudon 64 Clamato 105 Claus 35 Climats (Les) 61 Clos Montmartre Vineyard 87 Clover 61 Clown Bar 93 Club 75 98 Coinstot Vino 35 Colette 39 Colette Water Bar 35 Come On Eileen 108 Comme des Garçons 75 Comme des Garçons parfums 39 Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels (La) 63 Comptoir Générale (Le) 96 Concrete 106 Conserverie (La) 37 Copperbay 96 Coq (Le) 97 Cos 108 Courrèges 75 Coutume Café 61 Crazy Horse 77 Cream 93 Creed 75
Index
By Tag AMERICAN Ralph’s ART 104 (Le) Bal (Le) Balice Hertling Bugada & Cargnel Carpenters Workshop Gallery Centre Pompidou Espace Culturel Louis Vuitton Fondation Cartier Fondation Louis Vuitton Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent Gagosian Gallery Gaîté Lyrique Galerie Almine Rech Galerie Armel Soyer Galerie Crèvecoeur Galerie du Jour agnès b Galerie Kamel Mennour Galerie Marian Goodman Galerie Perrotin Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac Galerie UntilThen Grand Palais (Le) Jeu de Paume Louvre Maison Européenne de la Photographie Maison Rouge (La) Monnaie de Paris Musée d’Art Moderne Musée d’Orsay Musée Picasso Musée Rodin Orangerie (L’) Palais de Tokyo Polka Yvon Lambert Bookshop BAGS Agnelle Avril Gau Florian Denicourt Goyard Hermès Isaac Reina Jérôme Dreyfuss La Contrie
62 92 82 92 92 48 48 72 60 72 72 72 48 48 48 92 48 60 48 48 48 82 72 34 34 48 104 60 72 60 48 60 34 72 48 55 38 64 53 40 75 54 65 40
Loewe Louis Vuitton L/Uniform Olympia Le-Tan Pierre Hardy Stéphane Verdino Verbreuil Welcome to Mupp
76 76 65 41 41 55 66 87
BAR Andy Wahloo 51 Artisan 84 Au Passage 92 Aux Deux Amis 96 Bachaumont 34 Bains (Les) 51 Bar du Plaza Athenée 74 Beef Club Ballroom 37 Belle Époque (La) 34 Bottleshop 106 Brasserie Barbès 82 Buvette 82 Café Charbon 96 Candelaria 51 Cannibale (Le) 96 Carmen 84 Castor Club 62 Chez Jeannette 96 Chouettes (Les) 50 Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels (La) 63 Comptoir Générale (Le) 96 Conserverie (La) 37 Copperbay 96 Coq (Le) 97 Dépanneur (Le) 84 Dépanneur Terrasse (Le) 84 Dirty Dick 85 Eclaireur (L’) Boissy d’Anglas 75 Embuscade (L’) 85 Entrée des Artistes Pigalle (L’) 85 Experimental Cocktail Club 37 Fanfaron (Le) 107 Fantôme (Le) 97 Faust 63 Féline (La) 97 Floréal (Le) 97 Glass 85 Grand Amour Hotel 94 Grand Pigalle (Le) 85 Harry’s Bar 37 Josephine 97
Kremlin (Le) Ladurée Lapérouse Bar Little Red Door Lockwood Lone Palm Lulu White Mabel Ma Cocotte Mano (La) Mansart (Le) Maroquinerie (La) Mary Celeste (Le) Mathis Bar Méduse (La) MiniPalais Monsieur Bleu Montana (Le) Moonshiner Motel (Le) Palette (La) Paname Brewing Company Parisien (Le) Pasdeloup Pavillon Puebla Perchoir (Le) Perle (La) Petit Fer à Cheval (Au) Petit Trianon (Le) Petite Taverne (La) Pigalle Country Club Pop In Prescription Cocktail Club Red House Rosa Bonheur sur Seine Rosebud (Le) Rosie (Le) Rubis (Le) Saints Pères (Les) & Don K Sans Souci (Le) Scandale (Le) Sherry Butt Siseng Syndicat Cocktail Club Table du 8 (La) Tape Bar (Le) Tendre Voyou Tigre (Le) Titty Twister Trabendo (Le) Train Bleu (Le) Très Honoré Bar
Spring Summer 16
85 73 62 52 36 107 85 37 83 85 85 97 52 74 95 73 73 63 107 107 62 97 51 97 97 97 52 52 84 85 85 97 63 107 63 63 85 38 63 85 86 52 96 98 73 107 84 38 74 98 106 38
Twenty One Sound Bar UC-59 Udo Bar Wanderlust Zéro Zéro (Le)
107 74 98 107 98
BEAUTY Buly 1783 Guerlain Maison Dr Hauschka Sephora
64 75 109 76
BEER Paname Brewing Company
97
BOOKS 7L 63 Artazart 98 BookMarc 39 Centre Pompidou 48 OFR 54 Shakespeare & Company 66 WH Smith 42 Yvon Lambert Bookshop 55 BREAD Arnaud Delmontel Chambelland Du Pain et des Idées Gâteaux Thoumieux Pain Quotidien (Le) Poilâne Terroirs d’Avenir
86 98 99 65 105 66 42
BREAKFAST 10 Belles Avant Comptoir (L’) Bachaumont Bar du Marché (Le) Beans on Fire (The) Berthillon Bob’s Juice Bar Bob’s Kitchen Boot Café Bourse & La Vie (La) Brasserie Barbès Brasserie Lipp Bread & Roses Buvette Café Beaubourg Café Charbon Café Constant Café Etienne Marcel Café de Flore
92 60 34 60 92 53 93 49 49 34 82 61 72 82 49 96 61 34 61
119
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PARIS BUREAU 6 rue Thorel, 75002 Paris, France kate@gogocityguides.com Gogo City Guides is a digitally driven publishing company editing new-generation guides, in print and for iPhone, to London and Paris. Founding Editor : Kate van den Boogert, kate@gogocityguides.com ; Editorial Assistant : Amanda Lewis, editorial@gogocityguides.com ; London Editor : Caroline Kinneberg, london@gogocityguides.com ; Editor at Large : Clodagh Kinsella, clodagh@gogocityguides.com ; Designed & Typeset by Justine Suillaud, www.justinesuillaud.com. Thanks to : Sarah Andelman, Benoît Astier de Villatte, Thibault Caizergues, Taku Desine, Noémie Ferst, Alice Gazio, Clodagh Kinsella, Benjamin Moreau, Cécilia Michaud, Robin Meason, Sarah Medvedowsky, Ivan Pericoli, Isaac Reina, Alexandre Thumerelle, Amy Verner, Sébastien Zonik, the Lula Japan team: Kazuo Suzuki, Seiko Hayashi, Misaki Imamura, Tatsuo Hino. Find our complete list of stockists here: www.gogocityguides.com/stockists We cannot assume liability for any inaccuracies which may be contained in the information provided.
ISBN 9782919474165
9 782919 474165