6 rue Thorel, 75002 Paris, France www.gogocityguides.com Š Kate van den Boogert 2010–2014
GOGO PARIS: Autumn / Winter 2014-15 ISBN: 978-2-919474-10-3 Eighth edition
This book is produced sustainably using plantation timber, and printed in the destination market on demand reducing wastage and excess transport. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission from the publisher.
Autumn / Winter 2014-15 Biannual Edition
insider guides to go gogocityguides.com
Welcome to Paris
6
this season IN Paris news & trends
9
WHAT'S ON
10
Sleep Hotels & Accommodation
14
Etienne Marcel / Saint-HonorE Marais Left Bank Champs-ElysEes Montmartre / pigalle Canal St- M artin / Oberkampf / BELLEVILLE Bastille
26 36 46 56 66 76 84 88 92 96
Directory A-Z transport Index •Alphabet ical
•BY TAGS
AUTUMN / WINTER 2014-15
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this season in
p rs autumn / winter
AUTUMN / WINTER 2014-15
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tHis seAson in PAris
neWs & trends
The Fondation Louis Vuitton opens
The Fondation Louis Vuitton opens its doors on Mon 27 October. Designed by American architect Frank Gehry, the building will become a new center in Paris for contemporary French and international art. Resembling a cloud of glass, it is set within the Jardin d’Acclimatation in the northern part of the Bois de Boulogne in Paris. Its terraces offer unique views of Paris and the lush greenery of the garden, the inspiration for Gehry’s
Metamorphosis of the Monnaie de Paris
architecture of glass and transparency. The building includes 11 exhibition galleries dedicated to the permanent collection, temporary exhibitions and artists’ commissions. For its opening programme, the Fondation will present an exhibition showcasing Gehry’s architectural project, presented in dialogue with the first European retrospective of Frank Gehry’s work opening at the Centre Pompidou on 8 Oct. www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr
New art fair launches
A new contemporary art space opens inside the Paris Mint on 25 Oct. A programme of four exhibitions a year curated by Chiara Parisi launches with a bang with Paul McCarthy’s Chocolate Factory (pg 9). By commissioning internationally acclaimed artists to create site-specific projects, the Mint intends to start a conversation between contemporary art and its historic premises, a UNESCO world heritage site. Over the next two years, expect to see Marcel Broodthaers’s Museum of Modern Art, exhibitions by Tatiana Trouvé, Pawel Althamer, Thomas Schütte and Chris Burden, and a group show curated by Christian Boltanski and Hans Ulrich Obrist. Other news, Guy Savoy will transfer his Michelin starred restaurant to the site, and also open a more casual brasserie there, the MétaLcafé. www.monnaiedeparis.fr
One of our favourite Paris bars L’Entrée des Artistes will be opening a new address by the end of the year in Pigalle, at 30 rue Victor Massé, pimping the same heady recipe of natural wines, quality small plates, great cocktails and music, but spread out over 3 floors. Paris gets its first traditional Texan BBQ joint with the opening of The Beast in October at 27 rue Meslay near République. There’s also a big new all-day restaurant in the works from the wonderful team behind two of our faves Le Richer (pg 70) and L’Off ice (pg 70) coming soon to 52 Rue du Faubourg St Denis. The buzzing Pigalle burger and tequila den Le
The FIAC, Paris’ annual contemporary art fair, launches an official “off” this year, (OFF)ICIELLE, hosting approximately 60 French and international galleries specialising in contemporary and emerging art and located at Les Docks during the FIAC, 22–26 Oct. www.officielleartfair.com
Hotel Marmont
The mythic Parisian nightclub Les Bains Douches, located inside an old municipal bathhouse, is being remodeled into a luxury hotel, inspired by the legendary LA address the Chateau Marmont. Featuring a modish bar and restaurant, the hotel is set to open this winter at 7 rue Bourg l’Abbé.
Dépanneur will soon be expanding with the opening of their Terrasse just across the Rue de Douai. Also in Pigalle, a hot new club, only open to the “cool, creative or funny,” L’Isolé opens just before Fashion Week on 16 Sep (pg 60). Another new landmark on the Paris nightlife
L’Isolé
landscape, the opening of superclub Faust (pg 40) comprising bar, club and restaurant, on the banks of the Seine. One of the city’s finest chocolatiers and patissiers, Jacques Genin (pg 29) will open a second space on the Left Bank in September on the corner of Rue du Bac and Rue de Varenne in St Germain, hot on the heels of Alain Ducasse’s launch of a St Germain satellite for his chocolates at 26 rue Saint-Benoît. And lastly, fashion and music label Kitsuné will add two new stores to their Palais Royal flagship, one next door to A.P.C. on Rue Madame in the 6th, and the other on the booming Bd des Filles du Calvaire, not far from Merci.
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Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire
The much loved concept store Merci was the first to open on the sleepy Boulevard Beaumarchais back in 2009, expanding the frontiers of the Northern Marais to this axis running between
A.P.C. backs Vanessa Seward
After a successful six-season capsule with A.P.C., Vanessa Seward launches her own-name label with the backing of Jean Touitou. Her first collection for AW14–15 will be presented during Women’s Fashion Week in Paris in February 2015, and a boutique should open in September 2015 in Paris. Seward has been quoted as saying she wants to create a “chic, timeless wardrobe” of “sensible luxury.”
République and Bastille. Since then a whole host of trendy addresses has followed suit, such as Bonton, A.P.C., Blend Hamburgers and Ami. North of the Métro Saint-Sébastien –
Philharmonie de Paris by Jean Nouvel
Opening in January 2015, this major new music complex in the Parc de la Villette is centred on a 2,400-seat concert hall. Designed principally to host major symphony orchestras – with the Orchestre de Paris as the resident orchestra – the Paris Philharmonic will also promote other forms of musical expression such as jazz and world music. Designed by Jean Nouvel, the edifice is like nothing else in the urban landscape. The mineral building
Musée Picasso reopens on 25 Oct
vanessaseward.com
La Jeune Rue
We talked about this unique, bold and controversial new project in the last edition of our guide, when it was first launched. The brainchild of French entrepreneur Cédric Naudon La Jeune Rue is a microvillage of 36 establishements styled by the cream of the international design scene and dedicated to “produce better, eat better, live better.” Produce from exceptional suppliers, including the permaculture farm La Ferme du Bec-Hellouin, will be available direct to Parisians, and at affordable prices apparently, via bistros designed by the Campana Brothers and Alessandro Mendini, a club and flour mill by Jaime Hayon, a speakeasy by Ingo Maurer, a grocery by Tom Dixon, a tapas bar by Jasper Morrison etc. located on and around the Rue du Vertbois in the 3rd arrondissement. The first openings are set for September! lajeunerue.com
AutuMn / Winter 2014-15
Froissart, the street changes name to Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire but the fun continues with second addresses from Kitsuné and Melinda Gloss, at n°10, opening there soon.
with its cast aluminium and shiny stainless steel facades rises up within the Parc de la Villette not unlike a mountain, complete with a roof that visitors can walk on. One of the project’s inspirers, the composer Pierre Boulez called the Philharmonie ‘the Centre Pompidou of music’. www.philharmoniedeparis.fr
Hotel Lotti x Hotel Costes
It’s official. After repeated delays, and the controversial dismissal of its historic director Anne Baldessari in May, the Musée Picasso – located in the exquisite Baroque mansion the Hôtel Salé in the Marais – will reopen its doors at last on 25 Oct, the 133rd anniversary of the Spanish painter’s birth. The modernised and expanded musuem will boast improved exhibition spaces, allowing for more than 500 of Picasso’s works to be displayed throughout the building’s 4 levels.
The slumbering but historic hotel Le Lotti, located on Rue Castiglione between the Place Vendome and the Jardin des Tuileries, was recently bought by its high-profile neighbour, the Hotel Costes. Closed since April for a major overhaul, it will reopen in 2017, sharing with the Hôtel Costes an interior courtyard. Inaugurated in 1910, Le Lotti was originally financed by the Duke of Westminster, who wanted an intimate luxury hotel to his taste; it was the toast of the town for decades before losing its edge.
www.museepicassoparis.fr
www.hotel-lotti-paris.com
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski joins Hermès
Taking over from Christophe Lemaire as Artistic Director of women’s ready-to-wear, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski is a discreet design veteran with passages through Céline, Maison Martin Margiela and more recently The Row under her belt. She will present her first collection for Hermès for the AW15 season in March 2015. Lemaire’s final collection, for the Spring/ Summer 2015 season, will be shown at Paris Fashion Week this September.
French Menswear boom continues
Paris menswear continues to boom with Men’s Fashion Week in Paris now rivalling Milan for style influence. Hedi Slimane was a pioneer back in the early “noughties,” getting everyone excited about the male silhouette during his tenure at Dior Homme. But today a generation of newcomers is giving new energy to contemporary men’s style. Workwear brand Bleu de Paname (pg 19) and playful knit label Monsieur Lacenaire (pg 32) have both recently opened first stores. Other brands continue to grow, including Ami (pg 31) with a new second store on the Left Bank, and Melinda Gloss (pg 32) preparing a new flagship too.
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WHAt's on
WHAt's on Paul McCarthy at the Monnaie de Paris
The Paris Mint reopens to the public as an arts space this autumn with Paul McCarthy’s Chocolate Factory, a real chocolate factory producing thousands of chocolate figurines every day. Within the walls of the Paris’ oldest institution, McCarthy unfolds a dreamlike exhibition that transforms everyday life into a world full of nonsense. (Another LA artist, John Baldessari will also install his travelling participative illuminated light piece Your Name in Lights.) Sat 25 Oct–Sun 4 Jan · www.monnaiedeparis.fr
FIAC & L’(OFF)ICIELLE Wed 22–Sun 26 Oct www.fiac.com www.officielleartfair.com
Paris Fashion Week Women’s SS15 collections Tue 23 Sep–Wed 1 Oct www.modeaparis.com
Festival d’Automne Hedi Slimane at Fondation YSL Pierre Bergé
Thu 4 Sep–Wed 31 Dec www.festival-automne.com
This exhibition Sonic by YSL’s creative director presents studio portraits selected from 15 years of Slimane’s archives, including heroic rock figures Lou Reed or Amy Winehouse. The project is completed by a video installation juxtaposing the musical cycles of London (2003-07) and California (2007-14), painting an alternative portrait of two generations of performers and their fans.
Nuit Blanche
Thu 18 Sep–Sun 11 Jan · www.fondation-pb-ysl.net
Tue 11–Tue 18 Nov www.lesinrocks.com
Sat 4 Oct www.paris.fr
Pitchfork Paris Festival Thu 30 Oct–Sun 2 Nov pitchforkmusicfestival.fr
Festival Les Inrocks
Niki de Saint Phalle at the Grand Palais
Jeff Koons at the Centre Pompidou
Koons has pioneered new approaches to the readymade, tested the boundaries between advanced art and mass culture, challenged the limits of industrial fabrication, and transformed the relationship of artists to the cult of celebrity and the global market. This exhibition is the most comprehensive ever devoted to the artist’s groundbreaking oeuvre.
This retrospective takes a new look at the work of this multifaceted French artist, at once a painter, assembly artist, sculptor, printmaker, performer and experimental filmmaker. Over 200 works and archives, many unpublished, are set out by chronology and theme, and punctuated by screens showing the artist talking about her work. Wed 17 Sep–Mon 2 Feb · www.grandpalais.fr
Beyoncé & Jay Z Fri 12, Sat 13 Sep · Stade de France
Woods Tue 16 Sep · Café de la Danse
Suuns Wed 1 Oct · La Gaîté Lyrique
Clap Your Hands Say Yeah Wed 8 Oct · La Maroquinerie
Pharrell Williams
Wed 26 Nov–Mon 27 Apr · www.centrepompidou.fr
Mon 13-Thu 16 Oct · Zénith
Marcel Duchamp at the Centre Pompidou
Mon 27 Oct · L’Olympia
A fresh look at the work of one of the most iconic figures of 20th century. The exhibition takes the public step by step through the construction of one of modern art’s richest and most fascinating works The Bride Stripped Bare by her Suitors, Even (The Large Glass). Wed 24 Sep–Mon 5 Jan · www.centrepompidou.fr
Yann Tiersen Garry Winogrand at the Jeu de Paume
Famous for his photographs of New York and American life from the 1950s through the early 1980s, Winogrand photographed “to see what the world looks like in photographs.” This retrospective creates a vivid portrait of one of the masters of American street photography. Tue 14 Oct–Sun 8 Feb · www.jeudepaume.org
Follow us on Twitter and Instagram @_gogoparis or Facebook (GogoParis) for more ideas on where to go and what to see.
Metronomy Sat 1 Nov · Palais des Sports
The Do Tue 18 Nov · La Cigale
Fink Wed 26 Nov · Le Trianon
The Black Keys Mon 9 Mar · Zénith
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etienne MArCeL sAint-Honore ArrondisseMents
Palais royal
Louvre
opera
Les Halles
Montorgueil
Concorde
Concorde, Opéra Garnier, Place Vendôme, the Tuileries Gardens or the magnificent Louvre… Get your MONUMENT fix here! This part of central Paris is the CULTURAL and CONSUMER HUB of the capital and boasts 2 major shopping neighbourhoods: Rei Kawakubo pioneered the ETIENNE MARCEL area as a fashion district back in the 80s, and it’s still delivering; and COLETTE shook up the Rue St-Honoré (the formerly scruffy end of Faubourg St-Honoré) when it moved in 15 years ago. Then there’s the DEPARTMENT STORES above Opéra, and High Street heaven at Les Halles. And the Rue Ste-Anne, running between Opéra and Palais Royal, is where to go for JAPANESE FOOD.
getting around Get out at palais royal station. From here you can visit fashion mecca the Palais-Royal before continuing your shopping west up the rue st-honoré. Turn left at the rue Royal to visit place de la concorde, before backtracking east along arcaded, souvenir shop strip rue de rivoli, or through the tuileries gardens to the Louvre. For etienne marcel, get out at same-name Metro and keep in mind rue tiquetonne, rue etienne marcel and the cobble-stoned rue montorgueil. les halles is Paris’s central transport hub, and also features a sprawling subterranean shopping mall.
AutuMn / Winter 2014-15
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Spring DD MoDern frenCH / WIne bar / yuM
The much lauded American chef Daniel Rose expresses his talent via a creative, market-driven menu. Book now! 6 rue Bailleul, 1st · 01 45 96 05 72 · 6.30–10.30pm. Closed Sun, Mon.
Télescope Café D
Don’t MIss
breakfast / Coffee / take aWay
A stylish landmark on Paris’ booming craft coffee scene, Télescope roasts its own beans and features a monthly guest roaster. As well as making excellent expresso, they specialise in fine dripfiltered brews, served with tasty baked goods, granola or bread & jam. 5 rue Villedo, 1st · www.telescopecafe.com · 8.30am–5pm; Sat 9.30am–6.30pm. Closed Sun.
Verjus DD aMerICan / sMaLL pLates / WIne bar
Upstairs is the handsome restaurant serving 4- or 6-course tasting menus; down on street level you’ll find the wine bar with its more affordable bar menu but equally tasty cuisine (and now serving gourmet sandwiches at lunch: Tue–Fri, 12.30–2pm.) 52 rue de Richelieu, 1st · 01 42 97 54 40 · 7pm (6pm wine bar)–11pm. Closed Sat, Sun.
Workshop Issé D Japanese / take aWay
This handsome Jap grocery also dishes up a delicious, daily changing 10D bento at lunchtime. 11 rue St-Augustin, 2nd · 01 42 96 26 47 · www.isse-et-cie.fr/workshop · Noon–1.30pm. Closed Sun.
Yam’Tcha DDD fusIon / yuM
Award-winning Chinese-inspired fusion food from a top French chef, paired with exquisite teas. Good luck getting a table. 4 rue Sauval, 1st · 01 40 26 08 07 · www.yamtcha.com · Open for lunch (except Tue) & dinner. Closed Sun, Mon.
to listen to THE DØ SHAKE SHOOK SHAKEN (CINQ 7 / WAGRAM)
AutuMn / Winter 2014-15
PArtY Beef Club Ballroom bar / CoCktaILs / Late
Descend the stairs into this shady basement speakeasy – from the Experimental Cocktail Club crew – with its tight list of alternative cocktails (plus the other usual suspects). 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1st · eccbeefclub.com · 7pm–4am. Closed Sun.
Chacha Club CLub
This cosy Deco-style club and restaurant hybrid provides multiple excuses for excess. Good DJs. 47 rue Berger, 1st · www.chachaclub.fr · 8pm–late daily.
La Conserverie bar / CoCktaILs / WIne bar
One of the city’s most sleek and comfortable cocktail and wine bars. 37bis rue du Sentier, 2nd · 7pm–2am daily.
Experimental Cocktail Club bar / CoCktaILs
The original address for the city’s very own cocktail mafia, this relaxed, speakeasystyle bar boasts a serious cocktail list; come and drink with those in the know. 37 rue St-Sauveur, 2nd · 6pm–2am (Fri & Sat 5am). Closed Sun.
Harry’s Bar bar / CoCktaILs / MytHIC
‘Just tell the taxi driver: Sank Roo Doe Noo’ goes the bar’s slogan. It probably served Hemingway well back in the 20s, around the time the Bloody Mary was invented here (or so the story goes). This cult, century-old bar remains an oasis of New York culture in Paris. 5 rue Daunou, 2nd · www.harrysbar.fr · Noon–2am daily.
Silencio
Don’t MIss
CLub / LIve MusIC
Dress up, then let it all hang out, intellectually speaking, at the glam basement club designed by David Lynch (members only till midnight). 142 rue Montmartre, 2nd · www.silencio-club.com · 6pm–6am. Closed Sun.
Social Club CLub / LIve MusIC
Basement club for the electro kids with good sound, an even better programme, and a futuristic decor inspired by the film Tron. 142 rue Montmartre, 2nd · www.parissocialclub.com · Wed–Sat 11pm–6am.
Le Tigre bar / CLub
Beautiful young things dance to Bloc Party, The Clash or Depeche Mode in another rock’n’roll velvet boudoir. 5 rue Molière, 1st · tigrebylalternative.fr · 11pm–late; Wed–Sat club, Sun–Tue bar.
Très Honoré Bar bar / CoCktaILs
Skip the neo-Scandinavian dining trip upstairs and head straight to the basement where a blacklacquered altar to cocktails and decadence awaits you. 35 place du Marché St-Honoré, 1st · 7pm–2am daily.
Truskel CLub / grungy / LIve MusIC
There’s Guinness on tap at this cool London-style pub/club with a nightly programme of indie gigs and DJ sets. 12 rue Feydeau, 2nd · www.truskel.com · 6pm (4.45pm Sat)–5am. Closed Sun, Mon.
shopping Adieu Don’t MIss sHoes
A hand-crafted French take on the shoes – creepers, Doc Martens, winklepickers etc.– of the British lower classes, from the days of the Teddy Boys through the emergence of the punk scene in the 70s and 80s. 7 rue d’Aboukir,, 2nd · www.adieu-paris.com · 11am (noon Sat)–7pm. Closed Sun.
Aesop beauty
The botanical Australian skincare brand’s St-Honoré store is another unique interior: a spectacular homage to Parisian parquetry in Victorian ash.
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Stéphane Saclier After more than a decade at the helm of Public Image PR, Stéphane founded his public relations and communications agency in 2009. Passionate about discovering and uncovering talents, over the last 20 years he’s worked with many unique French creatives across fashion, food, art and design, including the legendary Pigalle stiletto maker Ernest, or the “textile horticulturist” Karuna Balloo. A longstanding friend and collaborator of Gogo City Guides, together we’re launching a new consulting service this season that has Paris at its heart, (see www.gogocityguides.com/consulting). Stéphane’s favourite places in Paris are all less than a 20-minute walk from his beautiful apartment in the 3rd arrondissment, “where all the fashion, art and gastronomy trends emerge.” stephanesaclier.com
Pasta Linea The best artisanal Italian produce and an excellent deli and restaurant. The owners are my friends and I feel completely at home here. Sylvie, the chef, is my main culinary inspiration. 9 rue de Turenne, 4th.
Hai Kai The chef Amelie is only 24 years old, but to me she is already one of the best chefs in Paris. The cuisine is based on the finest fresh produce selected with maniacal care, and is a constant surprise, due to the precision of the cooking and flavour combinations. And Gaby, her associate and head waitress, has the best smile on the Canal Saint Martin! 104 quai de Jemmapes, 10th · www.haikai.fr
Rose Bakery I have had a passion for this bakery for almost a decade. I am a fan of their recipe books and I go there all the time to enjoy the generous and delicious daily special and swoon over their irresistible desserts. My thanks to Camille, the baker, who has a little thought for me in the morning when taking the cakes out of the oven, and Alexandra for service that makes me feel at home. 30 rue Debellyme, 3rd.
Studio Pilates de Paris After eating, working out! Philippe Taupin was the first to open a Pilates studio in Paris 15 years ago, and introduced this practice to France. For me he’s the absolute reference on the subject. The instructors are the best in Paris and a shout-out to my instructor
Martine, who coaches me twice a week and makes me work my abs like no one else! 39 rue du Temple, 4th · www.studiopilatesdeparis.com
Studio Marisol Marisol Suarez’s hair salon is a magical place where the comfort of the client comes first. Marrying professionalism with unique talent, as well as being lots of fun, Marisol dry-cuts hair. She also makes incredible hair sculptures out of braids (her passion). She has a sure taste and eye, and her team is on the same wavelength. 33ter rue des Tournelles, 3rd · www.studiomarisol.com.
LO/A - Library of Arts Jeanne and Maxime invest their passions in this thematic bookshop, publishing house, and exhibition space for emerging talents. Every six months it presents a new, and very well documented, selection of photo books, vinyls, magazines, fanzines, collaborations, and exhibitions around themes such as graffiti, surfing or the Dutch techno scene. 17 rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, 3rd · libraryofarts.com
Exodisc I have collected vinyls since I was 14. I sold some and then bought the same ones back a few years later. As all collectors know, there is no drug as strong as vinyl. I have been going to Exodisc for 25 years; it is my favourite vinyl store with a good selection at good prices and in very good condition. The owners Larry and Dominique are a little like family. 70 rue du Mont Cenis, 18th.
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AUTUMN / WINTER 2014-15 gogoparis.com
This season, Gogo City Guides & StÊphane Saclier launch a new consulting service with Paris at its heart. — More info on
www.gogocityguides.com/consulting
gogoparis & gogolondon also available on the apPstore
Gogo City Guides 6 rue Thorel, 75002 Paris, France info@gogocityguides.com www.gogocityguides.com
Gogo City Guides is a digitally driven publishing company editing new-generation guides, in print and for iPhone, to London and Paris.
Founding Editor Kate van den Boogert, kate@gogocityguides.com Editorial Assistant Alexis Geh, editorial@gogocityguides.com London Editor Caroline Kinneberg, london@gogocityguides.com Editor at Large Clodagh Kinsella, clodagh@gogocityguides.com Photographers sat Large Anna Watts, anna@gogocityguides.com Nicole Rose, nicole@gogocityguides.com Branding & Communications sydney@gogocityguides.com Designed & Typeset by Alice Gazio & Doris HĂŠmar, hello@alicegazio.com Thanks to Maxime Dubois, Jennifer Flay, Jeanne Holsteyn, Mathias Kiss, Nicole Rose, Stephane Saclier, Gilles Tombeur, Marine Van Schoonbeek, James Whelan.
Find our complete list of stockists here: www.gogocityguides.com/stockists
We cannot assume liability for any inaccuracies which may be contained in the information provided.