MArAis 3. 4. ArrondisseMents
nortHern Marais
Lower Marais
st Paul
Place des Vosges
ile st louis
Home to ROYALTY in the 15th and 16th centuries, before they decamped to the Louvre, and still IN VOGUE in the 17th century, under Louis XIII, the Marais has conserved an incredible, sometimes Renaissance, ARCHITECTURE (it was spared Haussmann’s unforgiving 19th-century overhaul). The particularly DENSE and PICTURESQUE neighbourhood is home to much of the city’s JEWISH community (fellafel on the Rue des Rosiers) and the GAY community (techno apéro on the Rue des Archives). Most of the city’s CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERIES are located here too. And the NORTHERN MARAIS (NoMa?) is the part of Paris undergoing the most exciting transformation, as a sleepy part of town becomes an edgy FASHION and ART destination.
getting around The Marais is bordered by the seine in the south, république in the north, bastille to the east, and in the west the pompidou centre acts as gatekeeper. Marais means 'marsh', so the Métro doesn't make it through; you'll need to get off at stations on the periphery: st paul, st sébastien Froissart & Filles du calvaire, or rambuteau. The rue Vieille du temple cuts through the entire Marais from north to south, with the rue des Francs-bourgeois providing a central axis for the lower Marais; the Northern Marais clusters around rues charlot, poitou & bretagne.
spring / summer 2013
GoGopARiS.CoM
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Marie-Céleste, Ami, Beaucoup, Wait, Pinson, Sherry Butt, Little Red Door, Galerie Armel Soyer, Bistro Populaire, Acte 3, French Trotters, Nouvelle Affaire, Ostentatoire, Rosemary’s Baby, RA, Acne Studio, Royal Cheese Shoes...
Galerie du Jour agnès b art
Fashion designer Agnès b. is a serious arts patron and collector, with a taste for US and street art; this is where she showcases her coterie. 44 rue Quincampoix, 4th · www.galeriedujour.com · Noon–7pm. Closed Sun & Mon.
Art CuLture design
Galerie Armel Soyer neW
Carpenters Workshop Gallery
19-21 rue Chapon, 3rd · armelsoyer.com · 2–7pm Wed–Sat.
deSign
A new arrival from London on the Paris design scene, the gallery represents international talent working on the frontier of art and design, including Atelier Van Lieshout & Studio Job. . 54 rue de la Verrerie, 4th · cwgdesign.com · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Centre Pompidou dOn’t MiSS art / bOOKS / COffee / KidS / MuSeuM / WOW
Renzo Piano & Richard Rogers' radico-industrio 'museum as factory' still excites, 30 years on. Apart from a gobsmacking international program of art and cinema, the building also houses a quality art bookshop, café, design shop and even a post office. place George pompidou, 3rd · www.centrepompidou.fr · 11am–9pm. Closed Tue.
Gaîté Lyrique dOn’t MiSS art / liVe MuSiC
This exciting new institution has the city jumping to its program dedicated to digital creation, across music, multimedia performance, design, fashion, architecture and new media. 3bis rue papin, 3rd · www.gaite-lyrique.net
Galerie Almine Rech art
One of the major players boasts confirmed artists of the calibre of Araki or James Turrell, but also fashion icon Hedi Slimane. 19 rue de Saintonge, 3rd · www.alminerech.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun & Mon.
art / deSign
This new Marais gallery houses 21stcentury decorative art and design by both established and emerging talents.
Galerie Emmanuel Perrotin art
Très big on the scene here, the everexpanding Perrotin gallery now counts 3 Parisian spaces and a large stable of media-grabbing artists including Tatiana Trouvé or Maurizio Cattelan. 76 rue de Turenne + 10 impasse St-Claude, 3rd · www.galerieperrotin.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun & Mon.
Galerie Marian Goodman art
The New York gallery opened in 1977, followed by Paris in 1995. For over 30 years, the astute Mme Goodman has played an important role as a bridge between Europe and the US, with artists like Gerhard Richter and Rineke Dijkstra. 79 rue du Temple, 3rd · www.mariangoodman.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun & Mon.
Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac art
Austrian gallerist opened this Paris satellite in the 80s, and holds his own with artists of the calibre of Richard Deacon and Andy Warhol. Don’t miss the monumental new gallery out in Pantin! 7 rue Debelleyme, 3rd · www.ropac.net · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun & Mon.
Maison Européenne de la Photographie dOn’t MiSS art / MuSeuM / PHOtO
Outstanding photography instutition boasts an impressive annual program of monographic shows of contemporary and modern talents. 5 rue de Fourcy, 4th · www.mep-fr.org · 11am–8pm. Closed Mon, Tue.
spring / summer 2013
Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature MuSeuM
Politically incorrect, true, but this recently renovated museum dedicated to ‘hunting and nature’ is nonetheless a delight. Regular contemporary exhibitions add new perspectives to the collection. 60 rue des Archives, 3rd · www.chassenature.org · 11am–6pm. Closed Mon.
Yvon Lambert art / bOOKS
A lion on the scene, Lambert's been promoting his vision of contemporary art since the 60s, with artists of the calibre of Nan Goldin, Jenny Holzer, Anselm Kiefer or Sol Lewitt. The gallery also features an arts bookshop, with a great selection of artists’ editions. 108 rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd · www.yvon-lambert.com · 10am–7pm. Closed lunchtime & Sun.
eAt & Coffee Anahi DD SteaK
Don’t be put off by the falling down façade, this chic Argentinian restaurant is an institution for fashionistas. 49 rue Volta, 3rd · 01 48 87 88 24 · 8pm–midnight daily.
L’As du Fallafel D budget / falafel / KOSHer / nOn StOP / taKe aWaY
This emblematic Rue des Rosiers address distills Paris’ most famous Jewish quarter into great falafel. 34 rue des Rosiers, 3rd. Closed Fri dinner & Saturday.
Beaucoup DD neW COCKtailS / SMall PlateS
An elegant and spacious new lunch & dinner spot in the heart of the Northern Marais also boasts an upstairs cocktail lounge. 7 rue Froissart, 3rd · 01 42 77 38 47 · open for lunch & dinner daily.
Bistro Populaire DD neW brunCH / taKe aWaY
This new bistro/ rotisserie serves up a great little menu of unpretentious
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marais
French classics, going from quality tinned sardines or a plate of radishes, to 1/4 free-range roast chicken served with your choice of mash, salad or veggies. 77 boulevard Beaumarchais, 3rd · www.bistrotpopulaire.com · Open 7am–2am daily.
Bob’s Kitchen D breakfast / BRUNCH / ORGANIC / TAKE AWAY / veg
The second address for our friend Bob, from New York. We can't get enough of his healthy and delicious soups, juices, sandwiches and muffins. 74 rue des Gravilliers, 3rd · www.bobsjuicebar.com · Mon–Fri, 10am–3pm; Sun, 10am–4pm.
Café Baci DD brunch / coffee / late / TERRACE / WOW
This trendy hangout, open late every day of the week, serves quality cucina italiana to the beautiful people, within another India Mahdavi designed space. 36 rue de Turenne, 3rd · 11am–5am daily.
Café Beaubourg DD breakfast / coffee / brunch / TERRACE / WOW
Chez Taeko D don’t Miss JAPANESE / NON-STOP / TAKE AWAY
Inside the Northern Marais hotspot, the covered Enfants Rouge market, Taeko's stand serves up authentic Japanese dishes to happy regulars. Marché des Enfants-Rouges, 39 rue de Bretagne, 3rd · Noon–6pm (3pm Sun). Closed Mon.
La Chocolaterie Jacques Génin cakes / chocolate / coffee / TEA ROOM
There's a Japanese feel to Jacques Génin’s minimal temple to awe-inspiring chocolates and cakes. 133 rue de Turenne, 3rd · 01 45 77 29 01 · 11am–9pm (8pm Sat). Closed Mon.
Café Suedois D coffee / parks & GARDENs / TERRACE
A hideaway inside the Swedish Cultural Centre selling quality Scandinavian canteen nosh. Grab a table in the garden when it's fine. Hôtel de Marle, 11 rue Payenne, 3rd · 01 44 78 80 11 · Noon–6pm (9pm Thu). Closed Mon.
111 bd Beaumarchais, 3rd · www.merci-merci.com · Noon–7pm. Closed Sun.
La Mosaïque D BUDGET / NON-STOP / TAKE AWAY
56 rue du Roi de Sicile, 4th ·
Quiet off-street spot with outdoor tables proposes a number of tasty 'raw' specialities like tartare of beef or octopus, and a serious wine list.
japanese / NON-STOP / TAKE AWAY / vegetarian
7 rue Charlemagne, 4th · 01 40 27 81 84 · www.restaurantcru.fr · Tue–Fri, lunch & dinner.
69 rue des Gravilliers, 3rd · 01 44 61 91 95 · Daily dinner; Tue–Fri, lunch.
52 rue de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, 4th · www.lacafeotheque.com · 9.30am–7.30pm daily.
In the basement of the lovely concept store Merci is this charming lunch spot with a view over the herb garden. Select your salad combo from the mouthwatering daily selection.
TERRACE / WINE BAR
100 rue St-Martin, Place Igor Stravinsky, 4th · 8am–1am daily.
This pioneer on Paris’ budding ‘neocoffee’ scene roasts and grinds their own beans. Then an international team of prize-winning baristas take care of the rest.
organic / vegetarian
Cru DD
Derrière DD don’t miss
coffee
La Cantine Merci DD
This take-out hotdog joint sells a New York style Américain dog, but also the Alsacian (with sauerkraut) and the Mexicain, for just 3D a pop.
French architect Christian de Portzamparc designed this trendy spot back in the 80s, and the interior still makes you wanna dance to Grace Jones’ Slave to the Rhythm. Overlooking the Centre Pompidou, it’s also got one of the best terraces in town.
La Caféothèque D
3 rue des Rosiers, 4th · 01 42 72 90 61 · 9.30am–7pm daily.
This secret courtyard address serves flavoursome Mediterranean cuisine within a spacious 2-floor space, set-up to feel like a wealthy record producer's holiday pad (includes a ping-pong table and secret smoking room, sshhh!).
Glou DD WINE BAR
Spot-on daily dishes, using quality produce, complement their extensive list of small producer wines.
Nanashi Marais D don’t miss Nanashi’s roomy and bright Marais satellite serves the same fresh daily menu of tasty fish, meat and veggie bentos, fresh soups and salads, to eat in or to take away. 57 rue Charlot, 3rd (+ branches) · 11am–6pm (midnight, Thu–Sat). Closed Mon.
Pasta Linea deli / italian / take away
Micro restaurant and deli serving madeto-order Italian specialities with firstrate produce and a good, local vibe. 9 rue Turenne, 4th · Noon–8pm. Closed Sun, Mon.
Pinson NEW breakfast / gluten free / organic / Take away / vegan / vegetarian / wifi
cocktails / italian / pizza
A dream come true for the city’s maligned vegans, vegetarians and gluten intolerant, this roomy new café and juice bar serves organic, primarily vegan cuisine, “full of colour and energy.”
Authentic pizzas cooked by hot pizzaioli, plus great cocktails and local beautiful people.
Le Progrès
101 rue du Vieille du Temple, 3rd · 01 42 74 44 32 · Wed–Sun, lunch & dinner.
Grazie DD
91 bd Beaumarchais, 3rd · graziegrazie.fr · 01 42 78 11 96 · Daily, lunch & dinner.
Le Loir dans la Théière D coffee / NON-STOP / TAKE AWAY
Rickety, bohemian tea room with daily changing menu of home-made sweet and savoury tarts.
6 rue du Forez, 4th · www.cafepinson.fr · 9am (10am Sat)–7pm; Sun, 10am–6pm.
coffee / TERRACE
The Northern Marais’ feverish, beating heart. You’re sure to bump into friends at this café (if you can find a table). 1 rue de Bretagne, 3rd · 8.15am–11pm. Closed Sun.
gogoparis.com
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Rose Bakery Marais DD
breaKfaSt / brunCH / COffee / taKe aWaY / OrganiC / Vegetarian
The Rose Bakery's second address continues with the same UK attention to healthy produce that keeps winning them over on this side of the Channel. 30 rue Debelleyme, 3rd · 01 49 96 54 01 · 9am–6.30pm. Closed Mon.
Schwartz’s Deli D COffee / KOSHer / nOn-StOP / taKe aWaY
This Brooklyn-style deli has you worship at the temple of the bagel, burger and shake. 16 rue des Ecouffes, 4th · 01 48 87 31 29 · 9.30am–11pm daily.
PArtY
Georges
Sherry Butt neW
COffee / nOn-StOP / terraCe / VieW / WOW
bar / COCKtailS / WHiSKY
OK the waitresses are snooty, and a Heineken will set you back 8 euros, but the design by architects Jakob + McFarlane and the view over Parisian rooftops more than make up for it.
The curiosity inspired by the name of this moody new cocktail and whisky bar carries through to the names on their rather excellent cocktail list. You can’t go past ‘Granny’s Old Pipe,’ (13D) a tangy concoction featuring Lapsang Souchong tea. Substantial bar snacks are there to soak up the drinks.
6th floor, Centre pompidou, 4th · 11am–1am. Closed Tue.
Little Red Door neW bar / COCKtailS
This popular new bar has a great Northern Marais location on Rue Charlot. Not as edgy or arty as neighbouring Candelaria, it’s aiming for a NYC “speakeasy” vibe, and there really is a little red door on to the street.
20 rue Beautrellis, 4th · www.sherrybuttparis.com · open daily 6pm (8pm Sun & Mon)–2am.
Le Zéro Zéro bar / COCKtailS / grungY
60 rue Charlot, 3rd · www.lrdparis.com · 6pm–2am nightly.
Next door to the Pop In, and busy from opening to closing, this place makes up in heart and soul what it may lack in refinement.
Marie Céleste neW / dOn’t MiSS
89 rue Amelot, 11th · 6pm–2am. Closed Sun.
bar / COCKtailS / OYSterS
Acte 3 neW This secret new speakeasy serves cocktails and tasty small plates upstairs then things get sweatier down in the basement with the DJ.
The third bar in three years from the Candelaria slash Glass crew, Marie Céleste should open in Feb 2013, not far from the bar that started it all, and pushing a novel marriage of oysters & cocktails.
94 rue Quincampoix, 3rd · 6pm–2am. Closed Mon.
1 rue Commines, 3rd · 6pm–2am. Closed Mon.
Candelaria
Le Petit Fer à Cheval
bar / COCKtailS
dOn’t MiSS
sHoPPing Acne Studio neW faSHiOn / MenS
Acne’s impressive new Paris flagship combines raw industrial elements with clean Scandinavian influences, wrapped around their pared-down avant-garde fashion. (They also have a store on the Palais Royal.)
bar / COCKtailS / MexiCan / taCOS / teQuila
bar / COffee
Street-side is a tiny canteen selling tacos and other Mexican specialities by chef Luis, but push the hidden door at the back, and you land in a shadowy bar selling too many types of tequila.
This pint-sized Marais restaurant and bar keeps it real. Cluster around the little marble bar in the shape of a horseshoe, sip and chat and watch the world go by.
52 rue de Saintonge, 3rd · candelariaparis.com · 6pm–2am for the bar, noon–11pm for the taqueria. Closed Mon.
30 rue Vieille du Temple, 4th · 9am–2am.
Ami neW
Panic Room
A first flagship for Alexandre Mattiussi’s hyped Parisian menswear label. The classic but ‘now’ fit-out reflects Ami’s range of well-crafted clothes, which focus on classic shapes punctuated by playful pieces.
La Perle bar / terraCe
Not for the faint hearted. Paris fashionistas first take this bar hostage before moving on to the whole street. (Gossip: This is where John Galliano signed his fall from grace.) 78 rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd · 8am–2am.
to listen to RITON LOST MY MIND EP (ED BANGER)
spring / summer 2013
bar / grungY / liVe MuSiC
The latest (and possibly cleanest) addition to the string of grungy bars on the rue Amelot, their basement space hosts DJs and live concerts. 101 rue Amelot, 11th · 6pm–2am. Closed Sun, Mon.
Pop In bar / grungY / liVe MuSiC
Paris’ original indie rock bar got a welcome make-over for its tenth birthday. Hedi Slimane and the Klaxons can't be wrong. 105 rue Amelot, 11th · www.popin.fr · Daily 6.30pm–1.30am.
3 rue Froissart, 3rd (+ branches) · www.acnestudios.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
MenS
109 bd Beaumarchais, 3rd · www.amiparis.fr · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
April 77 faSHiOn / MenS
This Parisian brand is working at distilling the essence of rock, and have even set up their own record label to prove it. 49 rue de Saintonge, 3rd (+ branches) · www.april77.fr · 11am–7.30pm. Closed Sun.
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Azzedine Alaia
Edited Black
Lobato
FASHION / MYTHIC
FASHION / MENS
shoes
A legendary designer, Alaia made his name in the 80s, with a signature style celebrating the female form. (PS Don’t his miss his stock outlet round the corner at 18 rue la Verrerie.)
Comme des Garçons continue challenging fashion and retail conventions with this store selling the affordable Black range of reedited classics.
Buzz yourself in to discover owner Miguel’s perfect seasonal edit of shoes and bags from the likes of Pierre Hardy, Lanvin, Chloé, Martin Margiela, Jérôme Dreyfuss, Jil Sander, Balenciaga...
7 rue de Moussy, 3rd · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Bless don’t miss design / FASHION / MENS
The intelligentsia of the fashion world, this Paris / Berlin duo make conceptual fashion, art and design hybrids for thinking urbanites. 14 rue Portefoin, 3rd. www.bless-service.de 2.30pm (noon Sat)–7pm. Closed Sun, Mon.
Berko cakes / take away
This ‘American Pastry Shop since 1988’ serves an impressive selection of cupcakes (plus savoury snacks to provide an excuse for dessert). 23 rue Rambuteau, 3rd · www.cupcakesberko.com · 11.30am–7.30pm. Closed Mon.
Bonton
7 rue du Perche, 3rd · 11.30am–7.30pm. Closed Sun & Mon.
Etat Libre d’Orange perfume
This avant-garde independent French fragrance house uses natural ingredients to create ‘elegant and subversive’ scents, like Jasmin & Cigarette. 69 rue des Archives, 3rd · www.etatlibredorange.com · Noon–7.30pm. Closed Sun.
FR66 INTERIORS / DESIGN
Uncompromising, clever interior design pieces edited by this unpretentious brand and showroom. 25 rue du Renard, 4th · www.fr66.com · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Free ‘P’ Star vintage / late / OPEN SUN
KIDS
One of the best, and best known, vintage bazaars in town.
Impressive 3-floor flagship for the trendy French kidswear brand includes mini hairdresser, retro photo booth, and even a lolly stand.
61 rue de la Verrerie, & 8 rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 4th · www.freepstar.com · Noon (Sun 2pm)–10pm.
5 bd Filles du Calvaire, 3rd · www.bonton.fr · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
French Trotters NEW
Black Rainbow
French Trotters' impressive new Marais flagship is dedicated to men’s & women’s fashion, as well as homewares, from names like Comme des Garçons, APC, Le Mont St Michel, Levi’s Vintage and Acne...
mens / open sun
On-the-money street fashion with well-curated imports (Supra, Benny Gold tshirts) from the Black Rainbow collective, who run a magazine, a website, a label and more. 68 rue des Archives, 3rd · www.blackrainbowparis.fr · 11am (3pm, Sun, Mon) –7pm.
Christophe Lemaire FASHION / MENS
Hermès’ womenswear designer presents his own lines, for men and women, in a space decked out like his own apartment. 28 rue de Poitou, 3rd · www.christophelemaire.com · 1.30pm (Sat 11am) –7.30pm. Closed Sun.
fashion / menS / MULTI-BRAND / OPEN SUN
128 rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd (+ branches) · www.frenchtrotters.fr · 11.30am (Mon 2.30)–7.30pm; Sun 2.30pm–6.30pm.
Isaac Reina bags / mens
Beautiful materials, quality manufacturing and perfect proportions for these leather goods, all Made in Paris. 38 rue Sévigné, 3rd · www.isaacreina.com · 11am–7.30pm. Closed Sun, Mon.
6 rue Malher, 4th · www.lobato-paris.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Mariage Frères TEA / tea ROOM / MYTHIC / OPEN SUN
OK, it might be tourist central, but we still like the teas, their range of jams perfumed with tea (try the Earl Grey), and the whole white-linen Colonial trip. 32 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, 4th · www.mariagefreres.com · Daily, 10am–8pm.
Mary Gelateria ice cream / OPEN SUN
Authentic artisanal Italian gelati, with the accent to match. 1 rue Charles-François Dupuis, 3rd · 1–8pm. Closed Mon.
Melinda Gloss mens / OPEN SUN
This trendy Parisian menswear label synthesises quality materials, attention to detail and sharp cuts for the modern dandy. 42 rue de Saintonge, 3rd (+ branches) · www.melindagloss.com · 11am–2.30pm, 3.15–8pm (2–7pm Sun, Mon).
Merci don’t miss coffee / CONCEPT STORE / FASHION / INTERIORS / MENS
A roomy concept store over 3 floors sells a 'less-is-more' selection of fashion – vintage, kids, women, men – jewellery, furniture and interiors, and whatever else takes their fancy. The basement café is a great spot for a healthy pitstop too. 111 bd Beaumarchais, 3rd · www.merci-merci.com · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Mykita EYEWEAR
'Made in Berlin' edgy eyewear recently splashed across the front pages thanks to Lady Gaga's taste for their experimental design collaborations. 2 rue du Pas de la Mule, 3rd · www.mykita.com · Closed Mon.
gogoparis.com
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Nouvelle Affaire new
Popelini
fashion
cakes / open sun
Set up by fashion designers Pascal Humbert and Catherine Traoré, this super chic, monochrome pink boudoir is a kind of fashion laboratory, proposing a new micro-collection of limited-edition garments and accessories every month. 5 rue Debelleyme, 3rd · www.nouvelleaffaire.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Odetta OPEN SUN / vintage
Couture vintage with price tags to match. Unearth the Balenciaga robe of your dreams. 76 rue des Tournelles, 3rd · odettavintage.com · Noon–7.30pm; Sun 3–7pm. Closed Mon.
0FR don’t miss BOOKS / OPEN SUN
More than just a bookshop specialising in art/ fashion/ design, 0FR is the unofficial HQ for Paris creatives. Come to browse the bookshelves, and meet your next client. There's also a gallery space, and tea and cake on Sundays. 20 rue Dupetit-Thouars, 3rd · www.ofrsystem.com · 10am–8pm; Sun 2–7pm.
Ostentatoire NEW jewellery
This avant-garde contemporary jewellery multibrand sells a curated selection of about 25 design talents, including international stars like Tatty Devine but also undergound French designers such as Alice Hubert, Chic Alors, Calourette, Wing Paris, and even the store owner herself, Claire Pain. 101 rue de Turenne, 3rd · www.ostentatoire-paris.com · 11am–7.30pm. Closed Sun, Mon.
Petit Pan KIDS / INTERIORS
Marry a Chinese kite maker to a Belgian artist and you get this colourful, whimsical range of silk and bamboo mobiles, lights, and wall decorations, plus Chinese inspired textiles and pyjamas, for kids. 76 rue Francois Miron, 4th (+ branches) · www.petitpan.com · 10.30am–7.30pm. Closed 2–3pm, & Sun.
spring / summer 2013
A new vogue in patisserie: the cream puff. These bite-size balls of light-as-afeather choux pastry filled with flavoured cream or custard are prepared fresh daily, and on the premises. 29 rue Debelleyme, 3rd · www.popelini.com · 11am–7pm. Closed Mon.
Les Prairies de Paris don’t miss FASHION
This black laquered temple to sassy, urban fashion for women preaches to the converted. 23 rue Debelleyme, 3rd · www.lesprairiesdeparis.com · 11am–7.30pm. Closed Sun.
RA NEW fashion / mens
The Antwerp concept store’s Paris satellite. Browse their unique selection of established and emerging designers; they’re the first store in Paris to stock and present Meadham Kirchhoff, Charlie Le Mindu, Iris Van Herpen, Jenny Fox... 14 rue de la Corderie, 3rd · www.ra13.be · 11am–7pm. Closed Sun, Mon.
Rosemary’s Baby NEW fashion / mens / open sun / vintage
A new name and address for Noir Kennedy, but the punk attitude continues via their out-there customised vintage pieces. 113 rue de Turenne, 3rd · 11am–8pm daily.
Sentou DESIGN / INTERIORS / knick knacks
This pioneering shop has been unearthing new talent since the 60s. Find design-driven tablewear, lighting, furniture, textiles... 29 rue François Miron, 4th (+ branches) · www.sentou.fr · 10am (Mon 2pm)–9pm. Closed Sun.
Shine FASHION / MULTI-BRAND / OPEN SUN
One of the first high fashion stores to migrate to the northern Marais, back in 2005, Shine stocks See by Chloe, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Repetto... 15 rue du Poitou, 3rd (+ branches) · 10.30am–7.30pm. Closed Mon.
Surface To Air FASHION / MENS / OPEN SUN
These local style-meisters are a brand, a boutique and a creative studio. Their flagship flaunts all their collections, including must-have collaborations with Kim Gordon or Justice... 108 rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd · www.surfacetoair.com · 11.30am–7.30pm; Sun noon–6pm.
Swildens fashion / open sun
Low-key Parisian elegance with a bohemian, vintage edge. 22 rue de Poitou, 3rd (+ branches) · www.swildens.fr · 11am–7.30pm; Sun 2–7pm.
Thomsen fashion / mens
Fashion designer Alix Thomsen (she used to work for Lemaire at Lacoste) has launched her eponymous label. This cute store sells her classic but funky little range for men and women. 98 rue de Turenne, 3rd · www.thomsen-paris.com · 1–8pm. Closed Sun, Mon.
Tsumori Chisato FASHION
Whimsical, arty, and quirky fashion at the Japanese designer's only European store. (Great window design too.) 20 rue Barbette, 3rd · 10am–7pm. Closed Sun.
Valentine Gauthier FASHION
Deliciously wearable and girly fashion from this young French brand, inside its only store in the world. 58 rue Charlot, 3rd · www.valentinegauthier.com · 11am–7.30pm. Closed Sun.
Wait NEW fashion / mens / Multibrand
The crew behind cool and green Paris sunglass brand Waiting For The Sun has just opened this concept store in an under-the-radar pocket of the Marais, mixing up skate and surf gear with fashion and accessory brands alongside vintage furniture, books and fragrances. 9 rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, 3rd · www.wait-paris.com · 11am–7pm, Tue–Sat.
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MArAis
Calla Haynes
Marché des Enfants Rouge dOn’t MiSS / COffee / MarKet / OPen Sun
Animated covered food market in the heart of the northern Marais with a good range of lunch options, including Chez Taeko (see pg.27) or L'Estaminet. 39 rue de Bretagne, 3rd · Tue–Sat 8.30am–1pm, 4–7.30pm; Sun, 8.30am–2pm. Closed Mon.
Place des Vosges MOnuMent A chocolate box Renaissance remnant from when the Marais was at the heart of royal power, back in 1612. Picnic by the fountain, under the statue of Louis VIII.
Ile St Louis One of the two tiny islands in the Seine, it faces the southern perimetre of the Marais. Picture postcard pretty, it's a lovely spot for a stroll and a (Berthillon) ice-cream when the sun's out.
Calla Haynes was born in Toronto, and has been living in Paris for the past 8 years. After attending Parsons School of Design in New York and Paris, she worked with Olivier Theyskens at Rochas and Nina Ricci where she honed her textile and print design skills before setting up her own label CALLA from a studio in the Northern Marais. Her collections are based on the idea of “relaxed luxury” - a brand that is unique and crafted, while at the same time modern and easy to wear. Her strong print designs are the foundation of each collection. calla.fr
Les Vitelloni Just around the corner from the studio, I easily eat here 2-3 times a week. It’s perfect for everything from meals with out-of-town friends, fashion folks, or just the husband. 4 rue Dupetit-Thouars, 3rd.
Au Passage Original, a true breath of fresh air for Paris restaurants. 1bis passage Saint Sébastien, 11th · facebook.com/aupassage
Anahuacalli Authentic Mexican! Hooray! I’ve celebrated many end-of-fashion-weeks here with many pitchers of margaritas. 30 rue des Bernardins, 5th · anahuacalli.fr
Chipotle Speaking of Mexican, I am so happy that the US ‘Mexican Grill’ chain has finally opened a branch here! 20 rue Montmartre, 9th.
Ya Lamai Addictive Thai food from another neighborhood place where I eat very often. I have a theory that the owner Rose is a displaced Burmese princess; the fashion world and art world clientele and her chic wardrobe only add to the myth. 16 rue Dupetit-Thouars, 3rd · www.yalamai.com
Printemps Since its renovation a few years ago, it really is the best department store in Paris. I’m super proud to have the Calla collection carried in the Maria Luisa corner on the 2nd floor. 64 boulevard Haussmann, 9th · www.marialuisa.fr
Natcho et Compagnie Another talented neighbour (can you tell I don’t leave the 3rd very often?). Natcho is a florist who always has a beautiful selection and gorgeous arrangements, and his prices are very reasonable. He does all my showroom arrangements and ‘thank-you’ bouquets, which have received high praise from VIPs. 12 rue Dupetit-Thouars, 3rd.
Bibliotheque Forney This public library has a large collection of books on the decorative arts. It’s a quiet place to get lost amongst the magazine archives and art books. The medieval architecture is inspiring in itself. 1 rue du Figuier, 4th.
Dogs are rarely accepted in parks in Paris, so my favourite places to take Lily my Chow Chow are the Bois de Vincennes for a true forest romp, or the Champs de Mars when we’re feeling more urban.
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