SPRING 2018 exhibitions | collection | events
Happenings Take a peek at the action for this semester’s Creativity Break and Cocktails by Design
Exhibition Openings
Demonstration Garden
Storied Lives: Women and Their Wardrobes and Then and Now: Fashion Show @ 50
Our next exhibit The Demonstration Garden: Designing Flowers is in the works – get excited!
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The Unquiet Collection Collection Highlight: Ways we put our objects to good use
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Goldstein Museum of Design
Colonial Williamsburg San Antonio Follow Alanna, our intrepid Communications Assistant as she explores Texas
Talk about a blast from the past! Collections Assistant Sarah hit the road to uncover historic garments
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Our Supporters Letter from the Director GMD goes digital to bring the collection to the masses
Our work doesn’t happen in a vacuum – we owe it all to our donors!
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Spring 2018
To find more information and keep yourself up-to-date on GMD exhibitions and exhibition-related events, visit goldstein.design.umn.edu/exhibitions, and follow us on social media.
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GMD Student Creativity Break: Spring Edition Cupcakes. Frosting. Glory? The latest GMD Creativity Break took place on March 1st in McNeal Hall’s Atrium with design students decorating cupcakes and submitting their designs in a competition to win prizes. The tables were strewn with decorating materials, and coffee and other refreshments fueled the students in their quest for cupcake perfection. GMD-branded pins were handed out, and entries were photographed as students created— culminating in an Instagram contest with 40+ cupcake entries receiving votes. With over 200 votes tallied, these were the winning cupcakes!
Creativity Breaks are organized by GMD’s Graduate students as opportunities for College of Design students to take a break from their studies and apply their design skills in a fun environment.
1st Place: Sarah
2nd Place: Carolina
3rd Place: Dora
Thanks to our sponsor for making this event possible:
William Peterson, Design Director, Target Corp. 4
Goldstein Museum of Design
Cocktails by Design: Making The Spring Cocktails by Design was hosted by the Weaver’s Guild of Minnesota, taking place at the Textile Center. The theme of “Making” was perfectly suited to the atmosphere of the event: excitement and curiosity. With delicious cocktails, maker demonstrations, and sneak peeks at the latest exhibition, there was no shortage of entertainment for the evening. Some of the makers showcasing their skills included: Katherine Buenger, creator of Sami-inspired jewelry, Doreen Hartzell of Goldfish Love Fibers, Becka Rahn, surface and fabric designer, and Karen Mallin of Karen Mallin Fine Threads. Attendees gathered to celebrate and support design in an evening to remember. Funds raised from the Cocktails by Design Benefit Series help GMD provide quality services to the students, faculty, and staff of the College of Design and free exhibitions for all. Thank you to all who attended! Sponsored by:
Hosted by:
HAPPENINGS
Spring 2018
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Storied Lives: Women and Their Wardrobes Exhibition Dates: January 27, 2018—May 13, 2018 Co-Curators: Marilyn DeLong, Barbara Heinemann, and Caren Oberg Drawing in a variety of audiences, this exhibition celebrates the working woman of the 20th century through the exquisite wardrobes of three women with prominent careers in the Twin Cities. Looking at the contributions to the Goldstein Collection made by individual donors, we can explore the motivations behind how these women dressed and why. The wardrobes range as widely as the careers and lives of the women featured. From hiding beautiful garments under a lab coat to promoting designers in the workplace through dress, this exhibition makes us reflect on our own wardrobes and why we love the garments we wear.
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Goldstein Museum of Design
Then and Now: Fashion Show @ 50 Exhibition Dates: February 3, 2018—April 29, 2018 Co-Curators: Dr. Linsey Griffin and Lindsey Strange
Spring 2018
CURRENT EXHIBITIONS
Then and Now: Fashion Show @ 50 highlights the evolution of the annual Student Fashion Show, where apparel design students at the University of Minnesota (UMN) have been presenting their original designs since 1968. This exhibition captures the continuing creativity and innovation of apparel design alumni in their chosen fields. Spanning alumni works in apparel design, costume design, fiber arts, and the multi-faceted, and interdisciplinary field of wearable products, this exhibition is all about the evolution of the students (current or otherwise) and the fashion show as an important moment in their development.
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the
UN QUIET Collection
Shaker Chair, c. 1850-1900, Gift of Dr. Paulena Nickell 1981.154.002
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Goldstein Museum of Design
While most people think of museum storage as a quiet place, in reality there’s a constant buzz of activity. A small portion of that relates to exhibit preparation, but there are many other reasons why we pull things out of storage. Professors frequently request objects for use in teaching. The History of Fashion class, for example, makes extensive use of our collection. We roll racks of garments and carts full of accessories down the hall to that classroom about six times every semester. The students, most of whom are undergraduates, get to have handson experience with pieces dating as far back as the eighteenth century.
Yardage, 1974-1975 Gift of Mary Jean Jecklin 2003.095.022
The collection at the Goldstein Museum of Design is an active one
The Apparel Studio classes, where students learn to sew and pattern, also request visits from us. We’ll bring examples of the garment types or construction techniques related to what students are studying. This allows them to study the construction techniques used up close, while at the same time serving as sources of inspiration. The History and Future of Product Design class uses GMD objects to help students better understand scale, functionality, and materiality of everyday things. This past February, students studying the Industrial Revolution and Arts and Crafts Movement looked at a variety of objects, including the light yet sturdy construction of a Shaker chair, the heavy weight of a coal iron, and the mottled surface of a hand-pounded copper teapot with horn handle.
Bodice and Skirt, 1892-1893 Gift of John J. Schlenck 1966.005.007a-b
If a student is interested in studying any of the pieces in our collection outside of class time, all they have to do is make an appointment. In the last year, this has included an undergraduate student who looked at some of our oldest pieces for her capstone project and a graduate student who was writing a paper on women’s sporting clothes. Others have stopped by to take a second look at some of the garments they saw during a class visit or to ask if we had any objects by certain designers. By meeting with us one-on-one, the students can pursue their own individual interests.
Every year, the collection gets seen and used by numerous people with a variety of interests and end uses. Our storage may not be a restful place, but we wouldn’t want it any other way. S.H.
Teapot, Fallick Novak, 1912, Museum Purchase 1981.167.001a-b
Spring 2018
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THE UNQUIET COLLECTION
Research appointments are also open to those outside the University. In recent months, that has included pulling our oldest men’s undergarments for a costume designer and tracking down feathered hats for an independent researcher. We’ve also pulled a dress in order to answer questions for a historical costumer who was interested in making a copy.
Silk Dress, c. 1910-1919 Gift of Mrs. Alan Burrill 1969.003.006
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Goldstein Museum of Design
THE
DEMO NSTR AT I O N GARDEN designing flowers
Flowers, leaves, stems, and vines appear on everything from ancient Egyptian tombs to full body tattoos
Spring 2018
Featuring pieces from the GMD Collection, The Demonstration Garden: Designing Flowers explores an eternal fascination with flowers and the different hand and machine technologies used to produce their likenesses.
of low lying water into colorful blooms, is used symbolically in Buddhism. GMD’s exhibition presents over 50 objects, exploring how the beauty of nature intertwines with the beauty of handcraft and good design.
While many floral depictions are purely ornamental, others have deep cultural meaning. For example, in Japanese culture, the lotus flower, which rises out
J.M.
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THE DEMONSTRATION COLLECTION GARDEN
People have an innate and ongoing desire to transform the complexity of the plant world into motifs that can be printed, embroidered, embossed, tatted, beaded, dyed, woven, carved, and molded onto surfaces and into forms. Modernism challenged the popularity of flora, but did not completely squelch the desire to see iterations of flowers on a full range of designed products. The 1970s seemed to salvage the flower economy; even men’s shirts began coming up roses.
On the Road: San Antonio I’m Alanna Norton and I received the Lila Bath Communications Assistantship this year at GMD. Lila Bath, a fashion designer best known for her use of hand-loomed and embroidered fabrics inspired by Mexico, wanted to establish a relationship between the University of Minnesota and the University of the Incarnate Word in San Antonio, Texas. I was lucky enough to get to travel to San Antonio to work on my thesis and learn more about her designs and connection to the U of M. I worked with my advisor for weeks prior to create a plan for conducting research in the city on retail sustainability policies. This opportunity allowed me to compare Minneapolis and San Antonio to gather a broader understanding of policies in different parts of the country. I visited UIW and met with current and former staff before touring some of Lila Bath’s collection housed there. I observed several shopping centers in different parts of the city to compare local shops to those in Minneapolis. I enjoyed wandering the Riverwalk area and stopping by The Mercado to look at traditional handmade goods from Mexico sold by local merchants in small, colorful stalls. I had never visited Texas before this trip, and really enjoyed trying local food favorites in weather 40 degrees warmer than up north. I was very grateful for the opportunity to explore the city and work on my research with the help of those at the University of the Incarnate Word. A.N.
Exploring El Mercado in the early morning before open hours
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Taking refuge from the rain on Houston Street
Goldstein Museum of Design
On the Road: Colonial Williamsburg A sunny day at scenic Colonial Williamsburg
Thanks to a Museum Studies Professional Development grant, I was able to attend the Costume Society of America’s annual conference. The conference took place over four days at Colonial Williamsburg, VA. During that time I was able to hear more than a dozen presenters talk about their recent research related to dress history and the use of fashion objects in both exhibitions and teaching. I got behind a behind the scenes tour of the Colonial Williamsburg textile storage and conservation labs. I even had a little time to explore the historic area! The most valuable part, however, was getting to connect with the other attendees. It was because of those long conversations that I came back to GMD (and my schoolwork) with a renewed energy. I can’t wait to go back next year!
A sneak peek at the milliner mantua maker’s shop
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FROM THE STUDENTS
A shot from a behind-the-scenes tour of the costume shop
Spring 2018
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From the Director: Spring 2018 The Unseen Museum: The Collection Online GMD’s collection has its origins with faculty who assembled their own small groups of teaching objects specific to the content of their classes. One of the reasons for GMD’s development in 1976 was the preservation of these important object-based learning materials, some of which represented world cultures and rare historic design. A few years ago, GMD also began to create The Unseen Museum* – an online photo database making the collection accessible to everyone. GMD’s collection is still an important resource for teaching. The commitment to photograph the objects and share them through the online database allows objects to be both preserved and accessible. College of Design faculty and students as well as researchers and museums across the country can view photographs of the objects and request to see them in person. GMD’s collection by the numbers: (differs slightly from figures stated online due to new acquisitions) • 25,814 accession records
• 9,141 objects photographed (27%)
• 34,374 objects (each part of an accession is counted; i.e. one record of a pair of shoes = two objects)
• Over 40,000 photos online (three to five photos are taken of 3D objects to show different sides and details)
• 6,909 records with photos
• Approximately 1200-1500 objects photographed each year
This project is funded by grants from the Institute for Museum and Library Services (IMLS) plus individual donors. The IMLS grants fund two 50% staff (Team Digi—a photographer and a preparator) plus miscellaneous additional materials. With the last grant, we purchased several mannequins necessary to adequately shoot some apparel—larger females, a brown female, and males. The Unseen Museum offers unprecedented access to GMD’s treasures that might never been seen otherwise except by those with immediate access to McNeal Hall. Yours in design,
GMD Staff Eunice Haugen Registrar, Exhibitions Coordinator Sarah Hegge Dora Agee Waller Collections Assistant Jess Lambert Dora Agee Waller Graphic Design Assistant Barbara Lutz Administrative Assistant Jean McElvain, PhD Associate Curator Lin Nelson-Mayson Director Rebecca Njaa Preparator Alanna Norton Lila Bath Communications Assistant Ellen Skoro Photographer Brad Hokanson, PhD Mertie W. Buckman Professor of Design Education
Gallery Staff Autumn Beckman Andrea Dunrud Christine Fantle Careena Gonzales-Moore Keirsten Kupczak Emily McLaughlin Abe Santos Meeker Rebecca Roeder
Lin Nelson-Mayson
Grant Taylor
*OK, since you can see the photos of the objects, it is not truly an Unseen Museum, but it does describe perfectly the access a viewer has to objects generally not on view in exhibitions. Hats off to GMD’s Advisory Board for the title “Unseen Museum”!
Margot Weiss
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Aly Woodford
Goldstein Museum of Design
NEW AND RENEWING MEMBERS
Anonymous (Sustainer) Marjorie Alexander Pauline Altermatt Barbara Taylor Anderson (Sustainer) Louis Asher & Lisa Wersal Marlene Banttari Shirley Barber William Bloedow Meredith Bloomquist Elizabeth Bye Kathleen Campbell Richard & Jean Clarke Sarah Cox Ruth & Doug Crane Laura Daumann Marilyn & Max DeLong Ruth S Donhowe Sam Dudley Faye Duvall Mary Dworsky Cordelia Dugan Early
Lynn Purcell
Virginia Homme
GMD ADVISORY BOARD
Mimi Quintanilla
Janet L Johnson
2017-2018 OFFICERS
Philip Rickey
Marit Lee Kucera
Dawn Cook-Ronningen & Michael Ronningen
Jessica Lambert Lynda Martin
Matthew Hatch, RR Donnelley
Mark Schultz (Sustainer)
Diane Mortenson
Martha Hedstrom, Periscope
Susan Sell
Lin Nelson-Mayson
Marilyn Setzler
Jenifer Komar Olivarez
VICE PRESIDENT
Mary Spear
John Ollmann
Hazel Stoeckeler
Timothy G Quigley
SECRETARY
Marlene & Harlan Stoehr
Philip Rickey
Moira Bateman, Visual Artist
Sharron Steinfeldt
Julia Robinson
Mariann Tiblin
BOARD MEMBERS
Mark Schultz
Gene Valek
Heather Olson, Soladay Olson
Suzanne Szostak
Julia F Wallace
Karen Owen Tuzcu
Katherine O’Neil, The Musicant Group
LIFE MEMBER
Joanne Eicher
Stephanie Watson Zollinger & Paul Zollinger
IN HONOR OF
DIRECTOR’S FUND
Margot Siegel, Barbara Heinemann & Mark Schultz By Margot Siegel’s children, grandchildren & their families
Anonymous
Patricia Ewer Karen Fandrey Lois Gibson Dee Ginthner Trude Harmon
Julia F Wallace
COLLECTION DIGITIZATION
Sandy & Bob Morris
RESEARCH CENTER ARCHIVES
Liam Peterson, Target Product Design & Development Lynn Purcell, Design & Interactive Copywriter Gene Valek, KNOCK, Inc. PAST PRESIDENT
Kent Hensley, Hensley Creative
PROGRAM SUPPORT COCKTAILS BY DESIGN March 2018
Christine Hartman Matthew Hatch
Grant Amadio
Jean Hawton
Rick & Lyn Anderson
Delphine Hedtke
Louis Asher
Audrey & Chris Henningson
Marlene Banttari
Kent Hensley
Marilyn & Merritt Bartlett
Virginia Homme
Meredith Bloomquist
Jason T Howard
Beth Bowman (Sustainer)
Carol E Jackson
Kathleen E & Paul D Campbell
Donald Clay Johnson
Jeanne Corwin
Janet L Johnson
Sarah Cox
Patricia H Jones
Ruth & Doug Crane
Janet Kinney
Nancy Cyr
June 2018
Sheila Leiter
Dolores Vnak DeFore
James J Lewis
Kathleen E & Paul D Campbell
Tom Erickson & Kate Solomonson
Carolyn Lussenhop
Kaywin Feldman & James Lutz
Lynda Martin
Evelyn Franklin
Mary Ellen McFarland
Lois Gibson
Emma Messer
Hammel Green & Abrahamson Inc.
Sandy Morris
Donald & Marlene Hastings
Louise Mullan
Matthew Hatch
Darleen & Bob Nelson
Barbara Heinemann
Lin Nelson-Mayson (Sustainer)
Audrey & Chris Henningson
November 2017
Matthew Hatch Lynn Purcell & Gene Valek
SPRING CREATIVITY BREAK
William Peterson, Design Director Target Corp.
All GMD programming is made possible in part by the voters of Minnesota through a Minnesota State Arts Board Operating Support Grant, thanks to legislative appropriation from the Arts and Cultural Heritage Fund and a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts. Funding for the collection photography project was made possible by a grant from the Institute of Museum and Library Services. The University of Minnesota is an equal opportunity educator and employer. Printed on recycled and recyclable paper with at least 10 percent post-consumer material. To request disability accommodations or to receive this publication/material in alternative formats please contact: Goldstein Museum of Design, 364 McNeal Hall, 612.624.7434.
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GMD DONORS: Fall 2017 & Spring 2018
Spring 2018
Beth Bowman, Weavers Guild
Virgil C Johnson
GENERAL SUPPORT & ANNUAL APPEAL
John Ollmann
CO-PRESIDENTS
364 McNeal Hall 1985 Buford Avenue St. Paul, MN 55108
GALLERY 241 MCNEAL HALL, SAINT PAUL Tuesday - Friday 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM Weekends 1:30 PM - 4:30 PM
HGA GALLERY RAPSON HALL, MINNEAPOLIS Monday - Friday 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM Saturday 7:00 AM - 5:00 PM Sunday 12:45 PM - 5:00 PM All exhibitions are free and open to the public gmd@umn.edu 612.624.7434 goldstein.design.umn.edu Goldstein Museum of Design GoldsteinMuseum Goldstein_Museum
What’s on the cover? Featured in Good Housekeeping in November 1910, the porcelain tea cup (saucer-less on the cover) was made by Chicago-based Pickard Studios. Artist A. Richter hand-painted the art nouveau design on the cup. The ‘Lily of the Valley’ motif makes this set the perfect choice for the cover of our Spring issue! Cup and Saucer, Teapot, W. Pickard Studios, 1900-1910 United States, Gift of Don Lee 1980.003.002a-b
Nonprofit Org. U.S. Postage
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Twin Cities, MN Permit No. 90155