2010 Spring: Goldstein Museum of Design

GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN Spring 2010

Flights of Fancy: A History of Feathers in Fashion “That’s a feather in your cap!” Consider the fascination humans have long had for adding feathers to apparel. Flights of Fancy explores the historical and contemporary use of feathers in western fashion. It details the origin of feathers commonly used in clothing, the international feather trade, activism for the protection of endangered bird populations, and the psychological appeal and sartorial meaning of wearing feathers. In addition to utilizing the Goldstein’s collection, bird study skins, mounts, and prints from the Bell Museum of Natural History will be featured in the exhibit. Feathers in fashion are used as an opulent display to garner attention from others. This use parallels the purpose of feathers in nature, namely to attract attention to intimidate and for courting/mating rituals. As feathers became cheaper and more prevalent, a shift occurred in the social class of those who wore feathers. The popularity of feather adornment at the turn of the last century led to the endangerment of several bird populations and in extreme cases, extinction. This incited activism against the use of feathers in fashion, which ultimately resulted in legislation prohibiting use of certain types of birds’ feathers. Two main types of feathers are utilized in fashion: contour/quill and down. Contour

June 12-September 12, 2010 feathers are stiff, crisp, and structurally rigid, while down is soft and pliable. The tactile differences in these feathers are reflected in the differences in the sartorial meanings each convey. Visitors will gain an understanding of feather structure and the types of birds that have been hunted for feathers. Visitors will be invited to examine the history of feather use in dress and the environmental activism it sparked. They will also be presented with information on the social connotations associated with feathers in historical and contemporary dress.

To receive this newsletter electronically, send your name and e-mail address to gmd@umn.edu.

In conjunction with the Bell Museum of Natural History and The Raptor Center, co-curators Jean McElvain (GMD Assistant Curator) and Angelina R. Jones (GMD Research Assistant) utilized their knowledge of the Goldstein Museum of Design apparel collection to illustrate the aspects of feathers critical/crucial to their use in fashion. Special joint programs will accompany the exhibit. Exhibition and programs partially sponsored by the University of Minnesota Summer Session, Summer Cultural Programs.

Spring 2010 GMD

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FROM THE DIRECTOR WE GROW BY OUR DREAMS

—Woodrow Wilson, 28th President of the United States 1856–1924

New Growth It’s been a long winter and a tough year. Warm weather is welcome after the chill. The longer days signal new growth in our yards and gardens and inspire dreams of new challenges. As the end of the school year approaches, many students transition from regular classes into the excitement of graduation, summer job, or travel. It also signals the end of the GMD’s fiscal year on June 30th. This year, we are working with the University Foundation on a new fiscal-year-end campaign that will create support for GMD’s important educational experiences that benefit over 15,000 students, guests, and scholars that annually visit our galleries and research center. Please watch for this mailing and help us grow these experiences for more students and for you. As an example, consider what these investments in GMD’s important educational mission can do: ⊲ $1,500—enables the purchase of a new mannequin with a plaque in honor of your gift ⊲ $1,000—makes GMD’ greatest need possible (help us select what that might be) ⊲ $500—subsidizes a community program that includes collection objects ⊲ $100—finances preservation cleaning of delicate collection apparel ⊲ $50—supports the purchase of archival boxes for fragile textiles ⊲ $25—funds staff time to assist a student study collection objects In this newsletter, look for additional news of the growth of experiences, programs, and opportunities the GMD facilitates for you and for the communities we serve. Attend the popular Garden Party in a new location. Meet two students whose education has been enhanced by GMD internships. Visit the gallery this summer to see an interdisciplinary collaborative exhibition exploring feathers.

UPCOMING EXHIBITION

MAO TO NOW: CHINESE FASHION FROM 1949 TO THE PRESENT October 2, 2010–January 17, 2011

Curators: Dr. Juanjuan Wu, Assistant Professor, College of Design, University of Minnesota Dr. Marilyn DeLong, Professor and Associate Dean for Research & Outreach, College of Design, University of Minnesota Mingxin Bao, Professor, Fashion, Art & Design Institute, Donghua University

Sweeping changes occurred in Chinese culture and society between 1949 and the present which are clearly reflected in the evolution of Chinese fashion. This exhibit examines the dramatic transformation of women’s fashion in China during this tumultuous 60–year period. Divided into two time periods, visitors will explore the peasant suit of the Mao era (1949–1977) and the world influences brought by the opening up of China in the post–Mao era (1978 to present) when Chinese fashion increasingly exhibited a unique melding of Chinese and Western design expression. Today, cutting–edge Chinese fashion designers’ creations are as dramatic as European haute couture, but with a unique Chinese aesthetic. The work of four top Chinese fashion designers will be included in the exhibit. Photography will illustrate the dramatically different characteristics of fashion in the two periods.

Enjoy the warm weather and help the Goldstein Museum of Design bloom with strong!

Design by HuHaiyan

2 GMD

Spring 2010

A symposium follows the exhibition opening. Visiting Chinese professors and designers will give presentations. The symposium will include a series of public lectures and can be taken for course credit.

HANDBAGS Medieval chain mail and delicate ladies’ handbags What do medieval chain mail and an early 20th century metal mesh handbag have in common? They were made with the same time-consuming hand process of shaping and soldering metal rings together. In the Goldstein Museum of Design’s collection of over 700 women’s handbags, there are 24 metal mesh handbags. Three of these handbags illustrate specific characteristics that contributed their popularity. Handbag Maker Unknown Metal 1905-1915 Gift of Zeilia Goldberg 2008.018 (gold bag with filigree frame and chain handle)

Mesh handbags became fashionable beginning in the late 1800s and remained popular into the 1930s. The bags usually had a chain strap or handle, a frame with a clasp, and were originally hand made of precious metals such as gold and silver. These early mesh purses were very costly because of the valuable raw materials and labor intensive production process.

Handbag Whiting and Davis, Co. Metal 1920-1929 Gift of Deborah DeBrown 2009.011 (enameled paisley pattern rectangular bag with chain handle)

In 1912, the Whiting and Davis Company acquired the patent for a fine mesh producing machine, which enabled the company to mass produce mesh handbags for the first time. With lower labor costs and the ability to use less costly materials, the handbags became accessible to the growing middle class. With the growing popularity of mesh metal handbags, Whiting and Davis developed new handbag designs with special features. These features often reflected the art style and social practices of the time. Such features are seen in the highlighted bags: the frames with floral and free flowing Arts and Craft filigree and modernist Art Deco design, and an adjustable strap to secure around the wrist while dancing. In 1927, Whiting and Davis introduced the painted or enameled mesh ring bag, which was called “Dresden mesh”. The exceptionally fine paisley patterned bag is an example of this technique. The texture of the ring mesh gives the applied design an impressionistic water color appearance. These bags were more expensive than flat ring mesh bags and did not wear as well. Consequently, there are fewer of this type in good condition and even fewer are housed in collections. GMD would like to thank Deborah DeBrown, Felice Wender, and Zeilia Goldberg who donated these mesh bags. Donations such as these that enable GMD to develop a comprehsive collection for the study of innovative design.

Handbag ‘Dansant’ Whiting and Davis, Co. Metal 1920-1929 Gift of Felice Wender 1994.007.062a-d (silver two pouch bag with wrist strap)

Spring 2010 GMD

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FROM THE DIRECTOR WE GROW BY OUR DREAMS

—Woodrow Wilson, 28th President of the United States 1856–1924

New Growth It’s been a long winter and a tough year. Warm weather is welcome after the chill. The longer days signal new growth in our yards and gardens and inspire dreams of new challenges. As the end of the school year approaches, many students transition from regular classes into the excitement of graduation, summer job, or travel. It also signals the end of the GMD’s fiscal year on June 30th. This year, we are working with the University Foundation on a new fiscal-year-end campaign that will create support for GMD’s important educational experiences that benefit over 15,000 students, guests, and scholars that annually visit our galleries and research center. Please watch for this mailing and help us grow these experiences for more students and for you. As an example, consider what these investments in GMD’s important educational mission can do: ⊲ $1,500—enables the purchase of a new mannequin with a plaque in honor of your gift ⊲ $1,000—makes GMD’ greatest need possible (help us select what that might be) ⊲ $500—subsidizes a community program that includes collection objects ⊲ $100—finances preservation cleaning of delicate collection apparel ⊲ $50—supports the purchase of archival boxes for fragile textiles ⊲ $25—funds staff time to assist a student study collection objects In this newsletter, look for additional news of the growth of experiences, programs, and opportunities the GMD facilitates for you and for the communities we serve. Attend the popular Garden Party in a new location. Meet two students whose education has been enhanced by GMD internships. Visit the gallery this summer to see an interdisciplinary collaborative exhibition exploring feathers.

UPCOMING EXHIBITION

MAO TO NOW: CHINESE FASHION FROM 1949 TO THE PRESENT October 2, 2010–January 17, 2011

Curators: Dr. Juanjuan Wu, Assistant Professor, College of Design, University of Minnesota Dr. Marilyn DeLong, Professor and Associate Dean for Research & Outreach, College of Design, University of Minnesota Mingxin Bao, Professor, Fashion, Art & Design Institute, Donghua University

Sweeping changes occurred in Chinese culture and society between 1949 and the present which are clearly reflected in the evolution of Chinese fashion. This exhibit examines the dramatic transformation of women’s fashion in China during this tumultuous 60–year period. Divided into two time periods, visitors will explore the peasant suit of the Mao era (1949–1977) and the world influences brought by the opening up of China in the post–Mao era (1978 to present) when Chinese fashion increasingly exhibited a unique melding of Chinese and Western design expression. Today, cutting–edge Chinese fashion designers’ creations are as dramatic as European haute couture, but with a unique Chinese aesthetic. The work of four top Chinese fashion designers will be included in the exhibit. Photography will illustrate the dramatically different characteristics of fashion in the two periods.

Enjoy the warm weather and help the Goldstein Museum of Design bloom with strong!

Design by HuHaiyan

2 GMD

Spring 2010

A symposium follows the exhibition opening. Visiting Chinese professors and designers will give presentations. The symposium will include a series of public lectures and can be taken for course credit.

HANDBAGS Medieval chain mail and delicate ladies’ handbags What do medieval chain mail and an early 20th century metal mesh handbag have in common? They were made with the same time-consuming hand process of shaping and soldering metal rings together. In the Goldstein Museum of Design’s collection of over 700 women’s handbags, there are 24 metal mesh handbags. Three of these handbags illustrate specific characteristics that contributed their popularity. Handbag Maker Unknown Metal 1905-1915 Gift of Zeilia Goldberg 2008.018 (gold bag with filigree frame and chain handle)

Mesh handbags became fashionable beginning in the late 1800s and remained popular into the 1930s. The bags usually had a chain strap or handle, a frame with a clasp, and were originally hand made of precious metals such as gold and silver. These early mesh purses were very costly because of the valuable raw materials and labor intensive production process.

Handbag Whiting and Davis, Co. Metal 1920-1929 Gift of Deborah DeBrown 2009.011 (enameled paisley pattern rectangular bag with chain handle)

In 1912, the Whiting and Davis Company acquired the patent for a fine mesh producing machine, which enabled the company to mass produce mesh handbags for the first time. With lower labor costs and the ability to use less costly materials, the handbags became accessible to the growing middle class. With the growing popularity of mesh metal handbags, Whiting and Davis developed new handbag designs with special features. These features often reflected the art style and social practices of the time. Such features are seen in the highlighted bags: the frames with floral and free flowing Arts and Craft filigree and modernist Art Deco design, and an adjustable strap to secure around the wrist while dancing. In 1927, Whiting and Davis introduced the painted or enameled mesh ring bag, which was called “Dresden mesh”. The exceptionally fine paisley patterned bag is an example of this technique. The texture of the ring mesh gives the applied design an impressionistic water color appearance. These bags were more expensive than flat ring mesh bags and did not wear as well. Consequently, there are fewer of this type in good condition and even fewer are housed in collections. GMD would like to thank Deborah DeBrown, Felice Wender, and Zeilia Goldberg who donated these mesh bags. Donations such as these that enable GMD to develop a comprehsive collection for the study of innovative design.

Handbag ‘Dansant’ Whiting and Davis, Co. Metal 1920-1929 Gift of Felice Wender 1994.007.062a-d (silver two pouch bag with wrist strap)

Spring 2010 GMD

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FROM THE PRESIDENT DEAR FRIENDS—HAPPY SPRING! I’m so pleased with the progress the Friends of the Goldstein have made during my first term as your President. When I met with the board of directors for the first time in August 2009, I shared my vision for the coming year. It was simply stated, however quite challenging. I asked that the board work with me on two things: 1) raising $25,000 Linda Hersom for the Goldstein to help cover the shortfall due to the University’s budget cuts and 2) increase membership to 400 based on a current membership of 208. The $25,000 revenue would come from profits of Friends events, partner events, and fundraising. The targeted increase for membership would come from membership drives and the Eastcliff membership reception. To date, I can say that we have been successful. Our income from events, fundraisers, and community partners has more than surpassed $25,000, and you know what? It wasn’t that challenging. I THANK YOU for your continuous support of our events and programming! In regard to membership, I want to thank the Friends Membership Committee for leading two very successful membership drives. The first was in February with associates of fellow member, Joy Teiken. Over 45 individuals came to McNeal Hall and attended an evening of fashion with Jean McElvain presenting the stories of some of the pieces from the collection. Guests were able to get up close and personal with the garments as well as tour the storage rooms and research center of the Goldstein. Members joining that evening totaled 15. The second membership drive was at the HGA Offices on April 7. We were fortunate to have Tom Fisher, dean of the college, as our special guest. Both Tom and Dan Avchen

Goldstein announces award of two internships

spoke about the importance of the Goldstein and its connection to the world of architecture. New memberships are still coming in as a result of this drive. We may not have reached 400 but we have made a difference, and this will be an ongoing effort. Please circle May 12 on your calendar for the Friends Annual Meeting. This year, the annual meeting will not be part of the Garden Party. By having the annual meeting on its own day allows the Board of Directors and the Friends to spend more time on the election as well as annual reports from the Secretary, Finance Officer, VPs of Membership, VP of Development, and VP of Public Relations. This is your opportunity to meet all of us and become acquainted with the Friends membership. The meeting will start at 12:00 noon on Wednesday, May 12 in Room 274. Watch for your invitation and proxy in the mail. The Friends Annual Garden Party and Fundraiser is Thursday, May 20 in the HGA Gallery at Rapson Hall from 5:30–9:00 pm. At this year’s party, we will have salon-style modeling of Joynoelle and Russsell Bourrienne collections as well as gardening and landscaping tips from Bobby Jensen, of GROW with KARE-11. We will have a reception, silent auction and entertainment by the Parisota Hot Club. Please send in your reservations by May 13. If you want to sponsor the event or need additional information, call 612.624.7434. As I close this message, I want to thank all of the volunteers, the board of directors, and YOU for everything you did to make this year so successful. Together, we have made a difference. Imagine the possibilities for next year!

The Jerome Joss Internship is awarded annually to a College of Design graduate student to develop a public program based on the Goldstein Museum of Design’s collection. Caitlin Cohn (MA candidate, Apparel Design) is this year’s Jerome Joss intern. Cohn’s project is a comparison of a century of Vogue images with actual garments. The Lila Bath Undergraduate Research Opportunities Program (UROP) Internship is awarded to an undergraduate Apparel Design student that involves collection assistance at the University of Incarnate Word in San Antonio and the development of a project based on that experience. Alix Nettnay (undergraduate, Apparel Design) is the first recipient of the Bath Internship. Nettnay’s project involves the development of designs for embellishment inspired by the culture of San Antonio.

Caitlin Cohn

FRIENDS BOARD

GMD STAFF

RAPSON–MINNEAPOLIS CAMPUS

FINANCE OFFICER Becky Lyon

Director Assistant Curator Registrar & Materials Library Coordinator Grant Writer Graduate Assistants Photographer Preparator

VICE PRESIDENT OF DEVELOPMENT Sheila Leiter

CONTACT AND HOURS

OFFICERS

Until next time…….

PRESIDENT Linda Hersom

Linda Hersom President, Friends of GMD

SECRETARY Audrey Henningson

VICE PRESIDENT OF MEMBERSHIP Pauline Altermatt VICE PRESIDENT OF MEMBERSHIP Linda Boelter VICE PRESIDENT OF PUBLIC RELATIONS Betty Lyke Urie

MEMBERS Bradley Agee Liz Barrere Bill Bloedow Joel Kaplan Norm Steere

Dan Avchen Ann Birt Janiece Haglund Elise Linehan Joy Teiken

Lin Nelson-Mayson Jean McElvain Eunice Haugen Kathleen Campbell Angelina Jones, Monica Sklar, Mary Alice Chaney Evan Baden Rebekah Njaa

PHONE 612.624.7434 FAX 612.625.5762 WEB http://goldstein.design.umn.edu E-MAIL gmd@umn.edu

MCNEAL–ST. PAUL CAMPUS The Goldstein Museum’s gallery is in 241 McNeal Hall and the Research Center is in 333 McNeal, 1985 Buford Avenue.

HOURS The gallery is open Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday 10 am–4 pm, Thursday 10 am–8 pm and weekends 1:30–4:30 pm.

ADMISSION AND PARKING

Admission is free. Parking is available at the nearby Gortner Ramp located at 1395 Gortner Avenue. Public parking is available at a rate of $3 per hour up to a daily maximum of $12. Sundays parking is free (except for special events).

4 GMD

Spring 2010

Alix Nettnay

The HGA Gallery is in the lobby and the Architecture and Landscape Architecture Library is in 210 Rapson Hall, 89 Church St.

HOURS

The HGA Gallery and Library are open Monday– Thursday 9 am–9 pm, Friday 9 am–6 pm, and weekends 1–5 pm.

ADMISSION AND PARKING

Admission is free. Parking is in the Church Street Ramp at 80 Church Street SE. Public parking is available at a rate of $3per hour up to a daily maximum of $12. Sundays parking is free (except for special events).

Funding provided in part by a grant from the Minnesota State Arts Board, through an appropriation by the Minnesota State Legislature, a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts and private funders.”*

This project is supported in part by an award from the National Endowment for the Arts

The Institute of Museum and Library Services is the primary source of federal support for the nation’s 123,000 libraries and 17,500 museums. The Institute’s mission is to create strong libraries and museums that connect people to information and ideas.

Spring 2010 GMD

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FROM THE PRESIDENT DEAR FRIENDS—HAPPY SPRING! I’m so pleased with the progress the Friends of the Goldstein have made during my first term as your President. When I met with the board of directors for the first time in August 2009, I shared my vision for the coming year. It was simply stated, however quite challenging. I asked that the board work with me on two things: 1) raising $25,000 Linda Hersom for the Goldstein to help cover the shortfall due to the University’s budget cuts and 2) increase membership to 400 based on a current membership of 208. The $25,000 revenue would come from profits of Friends events, partner events, and fundraising. The targeted increase for membership would come from membership drives and the Eastcliff membership reception. To date, I can say that we have been successful. Our income from events, fundraisers, and community partners has more than surpassed $25,000, and you know what? It wasn’t that challenging. I THANK YOU for your continuous support of our events and programming! In regard to membership, I want to thank the Friends Membership Committee for leading two very successful membership drives. The first was in February with associates of fellow member, Joy Teiken. Over 45 individuals came to McNeal Hall and attended an evening of fashion with Jean McElvain presenting the stories of some of the pieces from the collection. Guests were able to get up close and personal with the garments as well as tour the storage rooms and research center of the Goldstein. Members joining that evening totaled 15. The second membership drive was at the HGA Offices on April 7. We were fortunate to have Tom Fisher, dean of the college, as our special guest. Both Tom and Dan Avchen

Goldstein announces award of two internships

spoke about the importance of the Goldstein and its connection to the world of architecture. New memberships are still coming in as a result of this drive. We may not have reached 400 but we have made a difference, and this will be an ongoing effort. Please circle May 12 on your calendar for the Friends Annual Meeting. This year, the annual meeting will not be part of the Garden Party. By having the annual meeting on its own day allows the Board of Directors and the Friends to spend more time on the election as well as annual reports from the Secretary, Finance Officer, VPs of Membership, VP of Development, and VP of Public Relations. This is your opportunity to meet all of us and become acquainted with the Friends membership. The meeting will start at 12:00 noon on Wednesday, May 12 in Room 274. Watch for your invitation and proxy in the mail. The Friends Annual Garden Party and Fundraiser is Thursday, May 20 in the HGA Gallery at Rapson Hall from 5:30–9:00 pm. At this year’s party, we will have salon-style modeling of Joynoelle and Russsell Bourrienne collections as well as gardening and landscaping tips from Bobby Jensen, of GROW with KARE-11. We will have a reception, silent auction and entertainment by the Parisota Hot Club. Please send in your reservations by May 13. If you want to sponsor the event or need additional information, call 612.624.7434. As I close this message, I want to thank all of the volunteers, the board of directors, and YOU for everything you did to make this year so successful. Together, we have made a difference. Imagine the possibilities for next year!

The Jerome Joss Internship is awarded annually to a College of Design graduate student to develop a public program based on the Goldstein Museum of Design’s collection. Caitlin Cohn (MA candidate, Apparel Design) is this year’s Jerome Joss intern. Cohn’s project is a comparison of a century of Vogue images with actual garments. The Lila Bath Undergraduate Research Opportunities Program (UROP) Internship is awarded to an undergraduate Apparel Design student that involves collection assistance at the University of Incarnate Word in San Antonio and the development of a project based on that experience. Alix Nettnay (undergraduate, Apparel Design) is the first recipient of the Bath Internship. Nettnay’s project involves the development of designs for embellishment inspired by the culture of San Antonio.

Caitlin Cohn

FRIENDS BOARD

GMD STAFF

RAPSON–MINNEAPOLIS CAMPUS

FINANCE OFFICER Becky Lyon

Director Assistant Curator Registrar & Materials Library Coordinator Grant Writer Graduate Assistants Photographer Preparator

VICE PRESIDENT OF DEVELOPMENT Sheila Leiter

CONTACT AND HOURS

OFFICERS

Until next time…….

PRESIDENT Linda Hersom

Linda Hersom President, Friends of GMD

SECRETARY Audrey Henningson

VICE PRESIDENT OF MEMBERSHIP Pauline Altermatt VICE PRESIDENT OF MEMBERSHIP Linda Boelter VICE PRESIDENT OF PUBLIC RELATIONS Betty Lyke Urie

MEMBERS Bradley Agee Liz Barrere Bill Bloedow Joel Kaplan Norm Steere

Dan Avchen Ann Birt Janiece Haglund Elise Linehan Joy Teiken

Lin Nelson-Mayson Jean McElvain Eunice Haugen Kathleen Campbell Angelina Jones, Monica Sklar, Mary Alice Chaney Evan Baden Rebekah Njaa

PHONE 612.624.7434 FAX 612.625.5762 WEB http://goldstein.design.umn.edu E-MAIL gmd@umn.edu

MCNEAL–ST. PAUL CAMPUS The Goldstein Museum’s gallery is in 241 McNeal Hall and the Research Center is in 333 McNeal, 1985 Buford Avenue.

HOURS The gallery is open Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday 10 am–4 pm, Thursday 10 am–8 pm and weekends 1:30–4:30 pm.

ADMISSION AND PARKING

Admission is free. Parking is available at the nearby Gortner Ramp located at 1395 Gortner Avenue. Public parking is available at a rate of $3 per hour up to a daily maximum of $12. Sundays parking is free (except for special events).

4 GMD

Spring 2010

Alix Nettnay

The HGA Gallery is in the lobby and the Architecture and Landscape Architecture Library is in 210 Rapson Hall, 89 Church St.

HOURS

The HGA Gallery and Library are open Monday– Thursday 9 am–9 pm, Friday 9 am–6 pm, and weekends 1–5 pm.

ADMISSION AND PARKING

Admission is free. Parking is in the Church Street Ramp at 80 Church Street SE. Public parking is available at a rate of $3per hour up to a daily maximum of $12. Sundays parking is free (except for special events).

Funding provided in part by a grant from the Minnesota State Arts Board, through an appropriation by the Minnesota State Legislature, a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts and private funders.”*

This project is supported in part by an award from the National Endowment for the Arts

The Institute of Museum and Library Services is the primary source of federal support for the nation’s 123,000 libraries and 17,500 museums. The Institute’s mission is to create strong libraries and museums that connect people to information and ideas.

Spring 2010 GMD

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SPRING 2010 CALENDAR Related Event: Symposium: October 2–3, 2010

GMD GALLERY, MCNEAL HALL FLIGHTS OF FANCY: A HISTORY OF FEATHERS IN FASHION June 12–September 12, 2010 Opening: Friday, June 11, 6–8 pm Presentation: 6:30 pm Curators: Jean McElvain, PhD., Angelina R. Jones

Historical and contemporary use of feathers in western fashion, including the origins of feathers commonly used in clothing, the international feather trade, activism and laws designed to protect endangered bird populations, and the psychological appeal of wearing feathers. Formal opening interpretive presentation by naturalist Adam Barnett from the Raptor Center will include an opportunity to see live birds of prey up-close and learn about their natural history, role in the environment, and preservation. Following the presentation the birds will be on display in the lobby of McNeal Hall where visitors may take photographs and speak with Raptor Center naturalists. Related Event: Talk: Wednesday, September 8, 2010, 5 PM

Amy D. Scarborough is a recent graduate of the Department of Design and Human Environment at Oregon State University. She will present research from her doctoral dissertation entitled “Fashion Media’s Role in the Debate on Millinery and Bird Protection in the United States in the Late Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Centuries.” Her talk will illustrate women’s role in activism against the feather trade and is given in conjunction with GMDs exhibition Flights of Fancy: A History of Feathers in Fashion.

CHINESE FASHION AND CULTURE October 2, 2010–January 17, 2011 Opening: Friday, October 1, 6–8 pm Curator: Juanjuan Wu, PhD., Marilyn DeLong, PhD., and Professor Bao Minxin

Apparel design changed radically in twentieth century China from post-dynastic complexity, through the ubiquitous Mao suit, to today’s proliferation of contemporary trend-setters. The exhibition traces the development of apparel in China and introduces several of today’s most influential designers. Appearances by featured Chinese designers will be co-sponsored by the University’s China Center.

A two day symposium in McNeal Hall follows the exhibition opening on October 1, where noted Chinese fashion critics, scholars, and designers will give presentations.

GMD DONORS—MAY 1–AUGUST 31, 2009

Featured speakers include:

In honor of Marit Lee Kucera

Professor Bao Mingxin, and Dr. Bian Xiangyang from Donghua University Designer Wu Haiyan, Associate Dean of the College of Design at the China Academy of Art Designer Wang Yiyang, owner of fashion brands ZUCZUG and CHAGANG. Design Liu Canming, owner of fashion brands ZIGE, CM • Loose, Lordship, & LIB MAX Dr. Hazel Clark, Dean of the School of Art and Design History and Theory at Parsons The New School for Design.

HGA GALLERY, RAPSON HALL M.ARCH AND MLA THESIS AND CAPSTONE PROJECTS May 5–September 5, 2010

Display of Masters of Architecture graduate theses and Masters of Landscape Architecture graduate capstone projects.

ARCHITECTURE AND LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE LIBRARY, RAPSON HALL OFF THE TOP OF MY HEAD: HAT HABITATS June 4–September 3, 2010 Opening: Friday, June 4, 5:30–7:00 pm.

The exhibition will feature the work of artists Cynthia Rapacz and Ryan Haro. The show exhibits a melange of artistry including photography, design, fashion, and architecture that become fanciful vignettes of the life of the hat.

SPECIAL EVENTS DIG DESIGN: THE ANNUAL GARDEN PARTY FUNDRAISER Thursday, May 20, 5:30 pm Wine, Hors D’oeuvres and Silent Auction 7:00 pm Program

With emcee and presenter Bobby Jensen of GROW with KARE segment, Salon-style presentation of Joynoelle and Russell Bourrienne collections, and music by the Parisota Hot Club. Spring 2010

Mrs. Betty S Andrews

In memory of Brenda Stowers Marcia J McCabe

In memory of Marion G. Nord Various Donors John & Christine M Otteson

DONATION TO ANNUAL APPEAL AND GENERAL SUPPORT FUND

HGA Gallery, Rapson Hall, East Bank Campus

6 GMD

The Goldstein Museum of Design acknowledges the following for their generous donations.

Mr Daniel L Avchen Warren L Bartz Nancy O & Richard P Bryant Paul D & Kathleen E Campbell Dennis Cass & Elizabeth Barrere Richard W & Jean Illsley Clarke David & Linda Mona Fund of the Mpls Fdn Ms Merry C Detlefsen Regents Prof Emerita Joanne B Eicher Dr Evelyn M Franklin Scott & Louise Fritchie Mary Galbraith GiveMN Hammel Green & Abrahamson Inc Trude Harmon Mrs Jeanette W Hauschild Linda L Hersom Mrs Jerry J Hess Miss Charlotte E Korn Ms Patricia A Martinson Medtronic Fdn David L & Linda J Mona Professor C. Robert & Sandra Morris Leone P Murphy Linda Nelson-Mayson Ms Donna L Pauley Ms Ada Schroeder Norman V Steere

David & Lynn Vander Haar Mrs Helen S Wolk Xcel Energy Fdn Mrs L A Ziebell

FRIENDS DIRECTORS’ FUND Mrs Marlene J Banttari Sarah A Cox Mrs Rosella Fefercorn Mrs Joyce F Field General Mills Fdn Mrs Lois K Gibson Mr Neil E Haugerud Chris R & Audrey L Henningson Mrs Dorothy S Leeds Ms Sheila G Leiter Mrs Aileen Stougaard

EXHIBITION SUPPORT Drs Max M & Marilyn R DeLong Fashion Group Fdn of Mpls/St Paul Herman Miller Inc

NEW AND RENEWING MEMBERS Liz Banfield Russell S Bourrienne Matthew & Faith Brue Ms Dawn G Buchanan Dennis Cass & Elizabeth Barrere Susan J Cheney Elizabeth A Engel Mrs Margaret M Flolid Dr Helen B Foster General Mills Fdn Hammel Green & Abrahamson Inc Chris R & Audrey L Henningson Joel Kaplan’s Lookout LLC Judith P Johnson Joel S Kaplan Jennifer Knoch Penny Larsen Liz Banfield Photography Inc

Ms Laura A Nelli Adrienne Page Ann M Prentice Ms Barbara J Redmond Ruth Reetz Rebecca Seaquist Patricia Simpson Jennifer Stack Eric Stensberg & James Peterson Carolyn Sullivan Ms Joy N Teiken Molly S Woodland

DONATION TO COLLECTION Kristen Anderson Sherwood and Elizabeth Berg Antay Bilgutay Bill Bloedow Loretta Brisbois Jeanne Corwin Ruth and Doug Crane Stephanie Daily Dolores DeFore Jan DeLue Timothy Fleming Humanscale Corporation Charles E. Jahrens Janet L. Johnson Jeanne and Albert Levin Jean McMahon Minneapolis Insitute of Arts Linda Mona Lin Nelson-Mayson Peter H. Ffolliott Revocable Trust Michael Peterson Connie Scott Marilyn Small Yeohlee Teng Gloria Williamson

Spring 2010 GMD

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