GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN Winter 2010
How Secretaries Changed the 20th-Century Office: Design, Image, and Culture Chances are that you know someone who has been a secretary. During the 20th century, women poured into offices all over the U.S. to work as “typewriter girls,” stenographers, and secretaries. New spaces, furnishings, and clothing emerged to meet their needs, while popular culture glamorized them. How Secretaries Changed the 20thCentury Office: Design, Image, and Culture explores transformations in the workplace and women’s lives and features office equipment and furniture plus office fashions, trade and fashion magazines, satirical postcards, and typing speed awards. Co-curators Midori Green (Ph.D. candidate, Art History) and Katherine Solomonson (Associate Professor, School of Architecture, and Associate Dean for Academic Affairs, CDes) mined archives from New York to Los Angeles, researched office design, and talked with scores of women who had been secretaries. The resulting exhibition reveals the ways secretaries’ changing image and experience were intertwined with design. For instance, how did clothing design
February 6–May 23, 2010 relate to information technology and to the design of office furnishings? As increasing numbers of women entered previously male-dominated offices, how did women and men negotiate working and personal relations, power, and status? How were male-female office roles and tensions reflected in office gags, jokes, and cartoons?
To receive this newsletter electronically, send your name and e-mail address to gmd@umn.edu.
Curatorial talks will reveal additional research findings, and a film series will explore fifty years of the office in popular culture. During the exhibition, GMD will also collect donations of gently-used women’s office wear for Women Achieving New Directions, a 20-year-old organization providing career and job services to lowincome single mothers. Exhibition and programs are partially sponsored by Friends of GMD, the College of Design, and the Fashion Group Foundation of Minneapolis/St. Paul, Inc.
Winter 2010 GMD
1
FROM THE DIRECTOR Strategic Planning—Striding into the Future
Design For Everyone: The Collection Web Project
Welcome to a new year of design and learning at GMD! This year, we begin the process of developing a new 5-year strategic plan. Simply put, strategic planning determines where an organization is going over a defined period of time and how it’s going to get there. This is an opportunity to start with an overview of what we’ve achieved and explore innovative ideas for partnership and engagement. What would you suggest for GMD?
In August 2009, the Goldstein Museum of Design (GMD) received a Museums for America Grant from the Institute of Museum and Library Services (IMLS). IMLS is the primary source of federal support for libraries and museums and works at the national level to sustain heritage, culture, and knowledge; enhance learning and innovation; and support professional development.
GMD was also the recipient of several grants that enable us to serve these communities better. Our most significant was the IMLS Museums for America grant that will facilitate adding images and information about the collection to the website. A description of this project is included in this newsletter. Other grant awards included collections preservation projects and important institutional support from the Minnesota State Arts Board, the state’s top arts granting agency. In addition, individual sponsorships supported our exhibitions and related programs. Museum futurist Nina Simon, in her blog Museums 2.0*, defined the following steps to opening doors to innovation, change, and new ideas. ⊲ Connect your idea to the institutional mission. ⊲ Find the right tool to implement your idea. ⊲ Align your idea with institutional culture. ⊲ Evaluate what visitors do—and more importantly, evaluate using criteria that are understood and appreciated by everyone in your institution. ⊲ Most challengingly, reserve resources (dollars and staff) for project implementation. ⊲ Enlist other people to help you. I value your participation with GMD and look forward to a dynamic strategic planning conversation as together we envision GMD’s next five years. Yours in design, Lin Nelson-Mayson * http://tinyurl.com/yhba8nc 2 GMD
Winter 2010
UPCOMING EXHIBITION
FLIGHTS OF FANCY: A HISTORY OF FEATHERS IN FASHION June 12–September 12, 2010
Curators: Jean McElvain, Ph. D, Assistant Curator; Angelina R. Jones, GMD Graduate Assistant
“That’s a feather in your cap!” Consider the fascination humans have long had for adding feathers to apparel. This exhibition will explore the historical and contemporary use of feathers in western fashion and will feature bird study skins, mounts, and prints from the collection of the Bell Museum of Natural History. Feathers in fashion are used as an opulent display to garner attention from others. This use parallels the purpose of feathers in nature, namely to attract attention to intimidate and for courting/ mating rituals. As feathers became cheaper and more prevalent, a shift occurred in the social class of those who wore feathers. The popularity of feather adornment at the turn of the last century led to the endangerment of several bird populations and in extreme cases, extinction. This incited activism against the use of feathers in fashion, which ultimately resulted in legislation prohibiting use of certain types of birds’ feathers. Visitors will explore the origin of feathers commonly used in clothing, the international feather trade, activism and laws designed to protect endangered bird populations, and the psychological appeal and sartorial meanings of wearing feathers. This exhibition will be accompanied by programs in partnership with the Bell and the Raptor Center.
Tricolor Heron John James Audubon from the collection of the Bell Museum of Natural History
This past year, as we joined the world in weathering financial challenges, we also realized significant achievements in serving both our educational and community audiences. Exhibitions showcasing faculty and student research were well-received for their exploration of design topics. Thousands of students experienced works from the collection through object-based learning. Groups from across the Twin Cities visited exhibitions and the research center to enjoy and learn about designers and designed objects.
GMD’s project, Design for Everyone: Increasing Access to Collections will expand the use of the Goldstein Museum of Design’s collection of 26,200 designed objects by making digital images and information about the collection available online. The end product will be an easily-navigable, information-rich tool that will be web-accessible to everyone for study, historical reference, and inspiration. The goal for initial public online access is fall 2010. This project will provide online access to all GMD collection records. Approximately 25% of collection records will also have photographs of the objects. Objects to be photographed will present an overview of the collection with a cross-section of types of objects, time periods, and individual designers.
As additional funding is secured, GMD will continue to photograph the remainder of the collection to add to the database.
The project will dramatically increase access to our collection by using technology to disseminate both visual and written information about collection objects. This new database will transform the way students, staff, and volunteers interact with the collection, improving the quality and efficiency of GMD’s service and dramatically increasing the number of people who benefit by this resource.
2001.097.003, Emigre Magazine of Typography and Graphic Design, Volume 3, 1985, ink, paper Museum Purchase, funded by Ann Brey
Preparing museum objects for photography will be new hire Rebekah Njaa. Rebekah trained in Italy for textile conservation and has worked locally at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts, the Science Museum of Minnesota, and the Minnesota Historical Society. Evan Baden will be the staff photographer for this project.; He is a graduate of the College of Visual Arts in St. Paul and a recent recipient of the Jerome Foundation Fellowship for Emerging Artists. Both Rebekah and Evan will start in January and will be working part time for the duration of the grant. We look forward to working with them and know that they will be a great addition to our staff.
1994.067.003A, WPA Block Print Swatch, 1935–1943, cotton, ink Gift of the Weisman Museum of Art, University of Minnesota.
1982.016.031, Bag, 1910–1919, silk crepe, bead Gift of Mrs. Folwell Coan
1998.056.001a,b, Shoes, 1937–1945, I.Miller, leather Museum Purchase
Winter 2010 GMD
3
FROM THE DIRECTOR Strategic Planning—Striding into the Future
Design For Everyone: The Collection Web Project
Welcome to a new year of design and learning at GMD! This year, we begin the process of developing a new 5-year strategic plan. Simply put, strategic planning determines where an organization is going over a defined period of time and how it’s going to get there. This is an opportunity to start with an overview of what we’ve achieved and explore innovative ideas for partnership and engagement. What would you suggest for GMD?
In August 2009, the Goldstein Museum of Design (GMD) received a Museums for America Grant from the Institute of Museum and Library Services (IMLS). IMLS is the primary source of federal support for libraries and museums and works at the national level to sustain heritage, culture, and knowledge; enhance learning and innovation; and support professional development.
GMD was also the recipient of several grants that enable us to serve these communities better. Our most significant was the IMLS Museums for America grant that will facilitate adding images and information about the collection to the website. A description of this project is included in this newsletter. Other grant awards included collections preservation projects and important institutional support from the Minnesota State Arts Board, the state’s top arts granting agency. In addition, individual sponsorships supported our exhibitions and related programs. Museum futurist Nina Simon, in her blog Museums 2.0*, defined the following steps to opening doors to innovation, change, and new ideas. ⊲ Connect your idea to the institutional mission. ⊲ Find the right tool to implement your idea. ⊲ Align your idea with institutional culture. ⊲ Evaluate what visitors do—and more importantly, evaluate using criteria that are understood and appreciated by everyone in your institution. ⊲ Most challengingly, reserve resources (dollars and staff) for project implementation. ⊲ Enlist other people to help you. I value your participation with GMD and look forward to a dynamic strategic planning conversation as together we envision GMD’s next five years. Yours in design, Lin Nelson-Mayson * http://tinyurl.com/yhba8nc 2 GMD
Winter 2010
UPCOMING EXHIBITION
FLIGHTS OF FANCY: A HISTORY OF FEATHERS IN FASHION June 12–September 12, 2010
Curators: Jean McElvain, Ph. D, Assistant Curator; Angelina R. Jones, GMD Graduate Assistant
“That’s a feather in your cap!” Consider the fascination humans have long had for adding feathers to apparel. This exhibition will explore the historical and contemporary use of feathers in western fashion and will feature bird study skins, mounts, and prints from the collection of the Bell Museum of Natural History. Feathers in fashion are used as an opulent display to garner attention from others. This use parallels the purpose of feathers in nature, namely to attract attention to intimidate and for courting/ mating rituals. As feathers became cheaper and more prevalent, a shift occurred in the social class of those who wore feathers. The popularity of feather adornment at the turn of the last century led to the endangerment of several bird populations and in extreme cases, extinction. This incited activism against the use of feathers in fashion, which ultimately resulted in legislation prohibiting use of certain types of birds’ feathers. Visitors will explore the origin of feathers commonly used in clothing, the international feather trade, activism and laws designed to protect endangered bird populations, and the psychological appeal and sartorial meanings of wearing feathers. This exhibition will be accompanied by programs in partnership with the Bell and the Raptor Center.
Tricolor Heron John James Audubon from the collection of the Bell Museum of Natural History
This past year, as we joined the world in weathering financial challenges, we also realized significant achievements in serving both our educational and community audiences. Exhibitions showcasing faculty and student research were well-received for their exploration of design topics. Thousands of students experienced works from the collection through object-based learning. Groups from across the Twin Cities visited exhibitions and the research center to enjoy and learn about designers and designed objects.
GMD’s project, Design for Everyone: Increasing Access to Collections will expand the use of the Goldstein Museum of Design’s collection of 26,200 designed objects by making digital images and information about the collection available online. The end product will be an easily-navigable, information-rich tool that will be web-accessible to everyone for study, historical reference, and inspiration. The goal for initial public online access is fall 2010. This project will provide online access to all GMD collection records. Approximately 25% of collection records will also have photographs of the objects. Objects to be photographed will present an overview of the collection with a cross-section of types of objects, time periods, and individual designers.
As additional funding is secured, GMD will continue to photograph the remainder of the collection to add to the database.
The project will dramatically increase access to our collection by using technology to disseminate both visual and written information about collection objects. This new database will transform the way students, staff, and volunteers interact with the collection, improving the quality and efficiency of GMD’s service and dramatically increasing the number of people who benefit by this resource.
2001.097.003, Emigre Magazine of Typography and Graphic Design, Volume 3, 1985, ink, paper Museum Purchase, funded by Ann Brey
Preparing museum objects for photography will be new hire Rebekah Njaa. Rebekah trained in Italy for textile conservation and has worked locally at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts, the Science Museum of Minnesota, and the Minnesota Historical Society. Evan Baden will be the staff photographer for this project.; He is a graduate of the College of Visual Arts in St. Paul and a recent recipient of the Jerome Foundation Fellowship for Emerging Artists. Both Rebekah and Evan will start in January and will be working part time for the duration of the grant. We look forward to working with them and know that they will be a great addition to our staff.
1994.067.003A, WPA Block Print Swatch, 1935–1943, cotton, ink Gift of the Weisman Museum of Art, University of Minnesota.
1982.016.031, Bag, 1910–1919, silk crepe, bead Gift of Mrs. Folwell Coan
1998.056.001a,b, Shoes, 1937–1945, I.Miller, leather Museum Purchase
Winter 2010 GMD
3
FROM THE PRESIDENT Dear Friends
FIRST GMD ONLINE SILENT AUCTION A SUCCESS HAPPY NEW YEAR!
GMD had its first online auction with a Louis Vuitton Greta Multicolore Noir handbag donated from Louis Vuitton North America through Macy’s.
As we go forward into the winter season, the FGMD and GMD Staff are planning events that you should mark on your calendar. All of them are listed in the Calendar of Events in this newsletter. The Design in the Dark: A Film Series has been well received. We began with Linda Hersom Lagerfeld Confidential in November, Unzipped (about Isaac Mizrahi) and in January we’ll show Yves St. Laurent 5 Ave. Marceau 75116 Paris. The series will continue through April. Go to the GMD website: http://Goldstein.design. umn.edu for the schedule. There is no charge to attend these at 33 McNeal Hall and beverages and snacks will be available for purchase.
A HISTORY OF FEATHERS IN FASHION June 12–September 12, 2010
On behalf of the GMD, the U of M Foundation has sent the Annual Appeal to Friends members. If you haven’t already sent in a donation, please consider supporting GMD. I’m sure most of you know that GMD was hit with a 40% budget cut for fiscal year 2009/2010, resulting in self support for those absent funds. More than ever, we need your help. Your donations are an investment in GMD’s educational programs, exhibitions, and care of collections. I thank you in advance. The Board is about to embark on several membership drives with community partners. We hope to double our membership by Spring 2010. If you know someone that would like to become a member of FGMD, please invite them personally to join. The application is available on the GMD website, or call the GMD office to 612-730-6751. Plans are underway for another fantastic Garden Party Fundraiser in May. Previously, the Annual Meeting was combined with the Garden Party, but this year, the Annual Meeting will be held separately. Watch for more details about both of these events soon. As we start a new year, I want to thank the incredible Friends of the Goldstein Board of Directors for their time and talent. Every single one of them works very hard for you, the Friends membership, on a volunteer basis. So please come to the FGMD events—show your support. Until next time…………Until next time… Linda Hersom President, Friends of GMD
4 GMD
Winter 2010
Flights of Fancy:
The auction started December 1 on the GMD website and closed December 31. Pictured here is Jeoungsoon Chi, the recipient of the Louis Vuitton bag which was purchased for $1,025. Proceeds of its sale will benefit the exhibitions of the Goldstein Museum of Design (GMD).
Curators: Jean McElvain, Ph. D, Assistant Curator; Angelina R. Jones, GMD Graduate Assistant
FRIENDS BOARD Top: Jean McElvain and Roslye Ultan, curators for October close Up Above: October Close Up guests viewing selections from the collection Right: Elise Linehan, FGMD Program Chair and Sheila Leiter, FGMD VP of Development
OFFICERS PRESIDENT Linda Hersom SECRETARY Audrey Henningson FINANCE OFFICER Becky Lyon VICE PRESIDENT OF DEVELOPMENT Sheila Leiter VICE PRESIDENT OF MEMBERSHIP Pauline Altermatt VICE PRESIDENT OF MEMBERSHIP Linda Boelter VICE PRESIDENT OF PUBLIC RELATIONS Betty Lyke Urie
MEMBERS Bradley Agee Liz Barrere Bill Bloedow Joel Kaplan Norm Steere
GMD STAFF Director Lin Nelson-Mayson Assistant Curator Jean McElvain Registrar & Materials Eunice Haugen Library Coordinator Grant Writer Kathleen Campbell Graduate Assistants Angelina Jones, Monica Sklar, Mary Alice Chaney
CONTACT AND HOURS PHONE 612.624.7434 FAX 612.625.5762 WEB http://goldstein.design.umn.edu E-MAIL gmd@umn.edu
MCNEAL–ST. PAUL CAMPUS The Goldstein Museum’s gallery is in 241 McNeal Hall and the Research Center is in 333 McNeal, 1985 Buford Avenue.
HOURS Dan Avchen Ann Birt Janiece Haglund Elise Linehan Joy Teiken
The gallery is open Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday 10 am–4 pm, Thursday 10 am–8 pm and weekends 1:30–4:30 pm.
ADMISSION AND PARKING
Admission is free. Parking is available at the nearby Gortner Ramp located at 1395 Gortner Avenue. Public parking is available at a rate of $3 per hour up to a daily maximum of $12. Sundays parking is free (except for special events).
RAPSON–MINNEAPOLIS CAMPUS
The HGA Gallery is in the lobby and the Architecture and Landscape Architecture Library is in 210 Rapson Hall, 89 Church St.
HOURS
The HGA Gallery and Library are open Monday– Thursday 9 am–9 pm, Friday 9 am–6 pm, and weekends 1–5 pm.
ADMISSION AND PARKING
Admission is free. Parking is in the Church Street Ramp at 80 Church Street SE. Public parking is available at a rate of $3per hour up to a daily maximum of $12. Sundays parking is free (except for special events).
Funding provided in part by a grant from the Minnesota State Arts Board, through an appropriation by the Minnesota State Legislature, a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts and private funders.”*
This project is supported in part by an award from the National Endowment for the Arts
The Institute of Museum and Library Services is the primary source of federal support for the nation’s 123,000 libraries and 17,500 museums. The Institute’s mission is to create strong libraries and museums that connect people to information and ideas.
Winter 2010 GMD
5
FROM THE PRESIDENT Dear Friends
FIRST GMD ONLINE SILENT AUCTION A SUCCESS HAPPY NEW YEAR!
GMD had its first online auction with a Louis Vuitton Greta Multicolore Noir handbag donated from Louis Vuitton North America through Macy’s.
As we go forward into the winter season, the FGMD and GMD Staff are planning events that you should mark on your calendar. All of them are listed in the Calendar of Events in this newsletter. The Design in the Dark: A Film Series has been well received. We began with Linda Hersom Lagerfeld Confidential in November, Unzipped (about Isaac Mizrahi) and in January we’ll show Yves St. Laurent 5 Ave. Marceau 75116 Paris. The series will continue through April. Go to the GMD website: http://Goldstein.design. umn.edu for the schedule. There is no charge to attend these at 33 McNeal Hall and beverages and snacks will be available for purchase.
A HISTORY OF FEATHERS IN FASHION June 12–September 12, 2010
On behalf of the GMD, the U of M Foundation has sent the Annual Appeal to Friends members. If you haven’t already sent in a donation, please consider supporting GMD. I’m sure most of you know that GMD was hit with a 40% budget cut for fiscal year 2009/2010, resulting in self support for those absent funds. More than ever, we need your help. Your donations are an investment in GMD’s educational programs, exhibitions, and care of collections. I thank you in advance. The Board is about to embark on several membership drives with community partners. We hope to double our membership by Spring 2010. If you know someone that would like to become a member of FGMD, please invite them personally to join. The application is available on the GMD website, or call the GMD office to 612-730-6751. Plans are underway for another fantastic Garden Party Fundraiser in May. Previously, the Annual Meeting was combined with the Garden Party, but this year, the Annual Meeting will be held separately. Watch for more details about both of these events soon. As we start a new year, I want to thank the incredible Friends of the Goldstein Board of Directors for their time and talent. Every single one of them works very hard for you, the Friends membership, on a volunteer basis. So please come to the FGMD events—show your support. Until next time…………Until next time… Linda Hersom President, Friends of GMD
4 GMD
Winter 2010
Flights of Fancy:
The auction started December 1 on the GMD website and closed December 31. Pictured here is Jeoungsoon Chi, the recipient of the Louis Vuitton bag which was purchased for $1,025. Proceeds of its sale will benefit the exhibitions of the Goldstein Museum of Design (GMD).
Curators: Jean McElvain, Ph. D, Assistant Curator; Angelina R. Jones, GMD Graduate Assistant
FRIENDS BOARD Top: Jean McElvain and Roslye Ultan, curators for October close Up Above: October Close Up guests viewing selections from the collection Right: Elise Linehan, FGMD Program Chair and Sheila Leiter, FGMD VP of Development
OFFICERS PRESIDENT Linda Hersom SECRETARY Audrey Henningson FINANCE OFFICER Becky Lyon VICE PRESIDENT OF DEVELOPMENT Sheila Leiter VICE PRESIDENT OF MEMBERSHIP Pauline Altermatt VICE PRESIDENT OF MEMBERSHIP Linda Boelter VICE PRESIDENT OF PUBLIC RELATIONS Betty Lyke Urie
MEMBERS Bradley Agee Liz Barrere Bill Bloedow Joel Kaplan Norm Steere
GMD STAFF Director Lin Nelson-Mayson Assistant Curator Jean McElvain Registrar & Materials Eunice Haugen Library Coordinator Grant Writer Kathleen Campbell Graduate Assistants Angelina Jones, Monica Sklar, Mary Alice Chaney
CONTACT AND HOURS PHONE 612.624.7434 FAX 612.625.5762 WEB http://goldstein.design.umn.edu E-MAIL gmd@umn.edu
MCNEAL–ST. PAUL CAMPUS The Goldstein Museum’s gallery is in 241 McNeal Hall and the Research Center is in 333 McNeal, 1985 Buford Avenue.
HOURS Dan Avchen Ann Birt Janiece Haglund Elise Linehan Joy Teiken
The gallery is open Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday 10 am–4 pm, Thursday 10 am–8 pm and weekends 1:30–4:30 pm.
ADMISSION AND PARKING
Admission is free. Parking is available at the nearby Gortner Ramp located at 1395 Gortner Avenue. Public parking is available at a rate of $3 per hour up to a daily maximum of $12. Sundays parking is free (except for special events).
RAPSON–MINNEAPOLIS CAMPUS
The HGA Gallery is in the lobby and the Architecture and Landscape Architecture Library is in 210 Rapson Hall, 89 Church St.
HOURS
The HGA Gallery and Library are open Monday– Thursday 9 am–9 pm, Friday 9 am–6 pm, and weekends 1–5 pm.
ADMISSION AND PARKING
Admission is free. Parking is in the Church Street Ramp at 80 Church Street SE. Public parking is available at a rate of $3per hour up to a daily maximum of $12. Sundays parking is free (except for special events).
Funding provided in part by a grant from the Minnesota State Arts Board, through an appropriation by the Minnesota State Legislature, a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts and private funders.”*
This project is supported in part by an award from the National Endowment for the Arts
The Institute of Museum and Library Services is the primary source of federal support for the nation’s 123,000 libraries and 17,500 museums. The Institute’s mission is to create strong libraries and museums that connect people to information and ideas.
Winter 2010 GMD
5
WINTER 2010 CALENDAR GMD GALLERY, MCNEAL HALL
ARCHITECTURE AND VISION
HOW SECRETARIES CHANGED THE 20TH CENTURY OFFICE: DESIGN, IMAGE, AND CULTURE
March 14–May 2, 2010
February 6–May 30, 2010 Opening: Friday, February 5, 6–8 PM Exploring women’s impact on office culture from 1900 to the 1970s, reflecting the largest occupational group of women in the 20th century.
ON THE BIAS Clothing designers of the 1930s proposed dramatic silhouettes with an emphasis on streamlined looks and svelte figures. Madeline Vionnet, a French haute couturier, was thought to have popularized this aesthetic through the manipulation of fabric that had been cut on the bias, or at a 45 degree angle from the selvedge. Fabric that hangs at an angle has an elastic quality which tends to drape closely over the curves of a body.
Architecture and Vision (AV) is an architecture and design practice established by the Italian and Swiss architects Arturo Vittori and Andreas Vogler. Based in Rome, Toulouse, and Munich, the company specializes in the AeroSpace technologies applied to architecture and design. Extensive research and development contribute to AV’s objectives in ecology, functionality, beauty, and quality.
RELATED EVENTS: CURATOR’S TALK SHAPING OFFICE CULTURE: SECRETARIES AND DESIGN, FROM MISS REMINGTON TO MAD MEN
ARCHITECTURE AND LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE LIBRARY, RAPSON HALL
Kate Solomonson and Midori Green
NATIVE VIEWPOINTS: PAINTINGS AND DRAWINGS BY JOHN KOEPKE
Thursday, February 18, 6 PM, 33 McNeal
February 12–May 14, 2010
Exploring changes in office design, technology, and visual representation through the lens of women clerical workers who contributed to the radical transformation of the workplace.
Informed by design principles and his unique blend of intellectual and cultural heritage that reflect Western analytical and Native American perspectives, Koepke’s work challenges us to ask new questions about the past.
COFFEE BREAK SERIES: THE OFFICE ON FILM All films at 6:30 PM, 33 McNeal Skyscraper Souls (1932)
INSIGHT–42ND ANNUAL FASHION SHOW
April 21
The Best of Everything (1959)
Saturday, February 6, 2010
April 22
Nine to Five (1980)
Shows at 5:30 PM and 8:00 PM Rapson Hall Courtyard
FLIGHTS OF FANCY: A HISTORY OF FEATHERS IN FASHION
Advance tickets available at the St. Paul Student Center or fashionshow. design.umn.edu
June 12–September 12, 2010
$15 general seating, $8 standing, $40 VIP
Historical and contemporary use of feathers in western fashion, including the origins of feathers commonly used in clothing, the international feather trade, activism and laws designed to protect endangered bird populations, and the psychological appeal of wearing feathers.
HGA GALLERY, RAPSON HALL ANDREA PALLADIO–500 YEARS January 16–March 7, 2010 The exhibition has been organized in conjunction with the 500th anniversary of the birth of “the most imitated architect in history,” whose influence on the development of English and American architecture has been greater than that of all Renaissance architects combined. Photographs display Palladio’s architectural projects for private residences in the Veneto Region and highlight the stylistic evolution of more than 40 years of the architect’s activity. The exhibition is cosponsored by the Italian Cultural Center of Minneapolis/St. Paul, and is made available through the generosity of the Istituto Italiano di Cultura of Chicago and the Istituto Regionale Ville Venete.
DESIGN IN THE DARK: A FILM SERIES All films second Thursday of the month, 7 PM, 33 McNeal Hall February 11
Valentino: The Last Emperor
March 11
Seamless (CFDA Competition & Awards)
April 8
Helvetica
Presented by the Friends of the Goldstein and funded in part by the Minnesota State Arts Board through an appropriation by the Minnesota State Legislature, a grant from the National Endowment of the Arts.
Andrea
PA L L A D I
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500 YEARS H 16–MARC JANUARY
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6 GMD
Winter 2010
Both of the dresses left, newly accessioned in November 2009, exemplify this tall and lean look characteristic of the 1930s. The 2009.050.001 Dress, c1935 (on left) Rose Amado silk satin Gift of the Ffolliott family in memory of Gertrude Boeckmann Ffolliott
SPECIAL EVENTS
April 20
silk dress on the left has complexly draped sleeves which are highlighted by the simplicity of the bodice and bias cut skirt. The ombré of the fabric suggests that the dress was dyed after construction; it would be technically difficult to plan an ombré pattern for yardage that was to be used in a bias cut dress. The silk georgette dress on the right has pleated and ruched details throughout, indicating that there was little concern for conserving fabric. The floral pattern and coordinating grosgrain bows give the dress a playful air.
2009.050.010 Dress, c1935 (on right) Saint-Muir silk georgette with screen print Gift of the Ffolliott family in memory of Gertrude Boeckmann Ffolliott
GMD DONORS—MAY 1–AUGUST 31, 2009 The Goldstein Museum of Design acknowledges the following for their generous donations. Sally Fefercorn Hyslop & David J Andrea K Specht New & Renewing Members Mr Bradley S Agee Ms Pauline M Altermatt Rachel M Anthony Anna E Atchley-Christoforides Mr Daniel L Avchen Elizabeth Barrere Margery J Brewster Ann C Brey Dr Catherine A Cerny Burton D & Rusty K Cohen Mrs Jeanne E Corwin Mrs Glenda M Cramer Mrs June R Dahlager Dolores Vnak DeFore Ms Patricia K Ewer Mrs Miriam A Fisher Dr Evelyn M Franklin Mrs Ellen M Fridinger Mrs Lois K Gibson Mrs Mary Ellen Haggerty Dr Susan A Hagstrum Melissa & Lars Hansen Rev Elizabeth Downing Heller Linda L Hersom Mrs Andrea Hricko Hjelm Tina M Hughes
Hyslop Kathryn M Johnson Joynoelle LLC Ms Barbara Mackey Kaerwer Judith Kinghorn Mr Edward J Kodet Jr Ms Marit Lee Kucera Dr Karen L LaBat Mary M Larson Mrs Ruth Meyer-Lerdal Elise Linehan-Sass Paula S Michel Minnesota Quilters Inc Susan Neill Ms Nancy A Nutting Jerilynn Ommen Mrs Ann S Phillips Mary Guilford Plumb Ms Christina M Ridolfi Dorothy F Saltzman Ms Catherine K Sheehan Ms Muriel J Shroyer Mrs Janice L Sickbert Mrs Lois E Simeral Nan A Skelton & Peter J Leach Constance E Soteropulos
Norman V Steere Prof Hazel T S Stoeckeler Judy Swanson DuVonne J Swenson Susan J Timm Mrs Karen Owen Tuzcu Ms Linnea K Tweed Ms Carol C Waldron Gustav F Weber Dr Linda M Welters Mrs Joan K Wigginton Mary B Wittenbreer Diane M Woelm Dr Juanjuan Wu
In Memory of Marion G Nord Mary E Borgh Nancy L & James F Sheldon Various Donors
Friends Director’s Fund Ms Sue J Bartolutti Rebecca J Lyon Mr Mark R Schultz
Exhibition Support J B Hudson Jewelers Julie Snow Architects Inc Meyer Scherer & Rockcastle Ltd Room & Board Inc Studio Weber & Associates General Support Mrs Jo Ann H Pirsch Ms Kirsten M Ford Mrs Helen P Gossell Dr William Henderson Ms Marit Lee Kucera Professor C Robert & Sandra M Morris Mr Richard E Nelson Linda Nelson-Mayson Robert R & Lois J Pflueger Mrs Janice L Sickbert
Donation to Collection Susan J & Roger J Feulner Ms Patricia Gessner Dr Donald C Johnson S Catherine Mc Intire Marcia J McCabe Dorothy F Saltzman
Winter 2010 GMD
7
WINTER 2010 CALENDAR GMD GALLERY, MCNEAL HALL
ARCHITECTURE AND VISION
HOW SECRETARIES CHANGED THE 20TH CENTURY OFFICE: DESIGN, IMAGE, AND CULTURE
March 14–May 2, 2010
February 6–May 30, 2010 Opening: Friday, February 5, 6–8 PM Exploring women’s impact on office culture from 1900 to the 1970s, reflecting the largest occupational group of women in the 20th century.
ON THE BIAS Clothing designers of the 1930s proposed dramatic silhouettes with an emphasis on streamlined looks and svelte figures. Madeline Vionnet, a French haute couturier, was thought to have popularized this aesthetic through the manipulation of fabric that had been cut on the bias, or at a 45 degree angle from the selvedge. Fabric that hangs at an angle has an elastic quality which tends to drape closely over the curves of a body.
Architecture and Vision (AV) is an architecture and design practice established by the Italian and Swiss architects Arturo Vittori and Andreas Vogler. Based in Rome, Toulouse, and Munich, the company specializes in the AeroSpace technologies applied to architecture and design. Extensive research and development contribute to AV’s objectives in ecology, functionality, beauty, and quality.
RELATED EVENTS: CURATOR’S TALK SHAPING OFFICE CULTURE: SECRETARIES AND DESIGN, FROM MISS REMINGTON TO MAD MEN
ARCHITECTURE AND LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE LIBRARY, RAPSON HALL
Kate Solomonson and Midori Green
NATIVE VIEWPOINTS: PAINTINGS AND DRAWINGS BY JOHN KOEPKE
Thursday, February 18, 6 PM, 33 McNeal
February 12–May 14, 2010
Exploring changes in office design, technology, and visual representation through the lens of women clerical workers who contributed to the radical transformation of the workplace.
Informed by design principles and his unique blend of intellectual and cultural heritage that reflect Western analytical and Native American perspectives, Koepke’s work challenges us to ask new questions about the past.
COFFEE BREAK SERIES: THE OFFICE ON FILM All films at 6:30 PM, 33 McNeal Skyscraper Souls (1932)
INSIGHT–42ND ANNUAL FASHION SHOW
April 21
The Best of Everything (1959)
Saturday, February 6, 2010
April 22
Nine to Five (1980)
Shows at 5:30 PM and 8:00 PM Rapson Hall Courtyard
FLIGHTS OF FANCY: A HISTORY OF FEATHERS IN FASHION
Advance tickets available at the St. Paul Student Center or fashionshow. design.umn.edu
June 12–September 12, 2010
$15 general seating, $8 standing, $40 VIP
Historical and contemporary use of feathers in western fashion, including the origins of feathers commonly used in clothing, the international feather trade, activism and laws designed to protect endangered bird populations, and the psychological appeal of wearing feathers.
HGA GALLERY, RAPSON HALL ANDREA PALLADIO–500 YEARS January 16–March 7, 2010 The exhibition has been organized in conjunction with the 500th anniversary of the birth of “the most imitated architect in history,” whose influence on the development of English and American architecture has been greater than that of all Renaissance architects combined. Photographs display Palladio’s architectural projects for private residences in the Veneto Region and highlight the stylistic evolution of more than 40 years of the architect’s activity. The exhibition is cosponsored by the Italian Cultural Center of Minneapolis/St. Paul, and is made available through the generosity of the Istituto Italiano di Cultura of Chicago and the Istituto Regionale Ville Venete.
DESIGN IN THE DARK: A FILM SERIES All films second Thursday of the month, 7 PM, 33 McNeal Hall February 11
Valentino: The Last Emperor
March 11
Seamless (CFDA Competition & Awards)
April 8
Helvetica
Presented by the Friends of the Goldstein and funded in part by the Minnesota State Arts Board through an appropriation by the Minnesota State Legislature, a grant from the National Endowment of the Arts.
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Both of the dresses left, newly accessioned in November 2009, exemplify this tall and lean look characteristic of the 1930s. The 2009.050.001 Dress, c1935 (on left) Rose Amado silk satin Gift of the Ffolliott family in memory of Gertrude Boeckmann Ffolliott
SPECIAL EVENTS
April 20
silk dress on the left has complexly draped sleeves which are highlighted by the simplicity of the bodice and bias cut skirt. The ombré of the fabric suggests that the dress was dyed after construction; it would be technically difficult to plan an ombré pattern for yardage that was to be used in a bias cut dress. The silk georgette dress on the right has pleated and ruched details throughout, indicating that there was little concern for conserving fabric. The floral pattern and coordinating grosgrain bows give the dress a playful air.
2009.050.010 Dress, c1935 (on right) Saint-Muir silk georgette with screen print Gift of the Ffolliott family in memory of Gertrude Boeckmann Ffolliott
GMD DONORS—MAY 1–AUGUST 31, 2009 The Goldstein Museum of Design acknowledges the following for their generous donations. Sally Fefercorn Hyslop & David J Andrea K Specht New & Renewing Members Mr Bradley S Agee Ms Pauline M Altermatt Rachel M Anthony Anna E Atchley-Christoforides Mr Daniel L Avchen Elizabeth Barrere Margery J Brewster Ann C Brey Dr Catherine A Cerny Burton D & Rusty K Cohen Mrs Jeanne E Corwin Mrs Glenda M Cramer Mrs June R Dahlager Dolores Vnak DeFore Ms Patricia K Ewer Mrs Miriam A Fisher Dr Evelyn M Franklin Mrs Ellen M Fridinger Mrs Lois K Gibson Mrs Mary Ellen Haggerty Dr Susan A Hagstrum Melissa & Lars Hansen Rev Elizabeth Downing Heller Linda L Hersom Mrs Andrea Hricko Hjelm Tina M Hughes
Hyslop Kathryn M Johnson Joynoelle LLC Ms Barbara Mackey Kaerwer Judith Kinghorn Mr Edward J Kodet Jr Ms Marit Lee Kucera Dr Karen L LaBat Mary M Larson Mrs Ruth Meyer-Lerdal Elise Linehan-Sass Paula S Michel Minnesota Quilters Inc Susan Neill Ms Nancy A Nutting Jerilynn Ommen Mrs Ann S Phillips Mary Guilford Plumb Ms Christina M Ridolfi Dorothy F Saltzman Ms Catherine K Sheehan Ms Muriel J Shroyer Mrs Janice L Sickbert Mrs Lois E Simeral Nan A Skelton & Peter J Leach Constance E Soteropulos
Norman V Steere Prof Hazel T S Stoeckeler Judy Swanson DuVonne J Swenson Susan J Timm Mrs Karen Owen Tuzcu Ms Linnea K Tweed Ms Carol C Waldron Gustav F Weber Dr Linda M Welters Mrs Joan K Wigginton Mary B Wittenbreer Diane M Woelm Dr Juanjuan Wu
In Memory of Marion G Nord Mary E Borgh Nancy L & James F Sheldon Various Donors
Friends Director’s Fund Ms Sue J Bartolutti Rebecca J Lyon Mr Mark R Schultz
Exhibition Support J B Hudson Jewelers Julie Snow Architects Inc Meyer Scherer & Rockcastle Ltd Room & Board Inc Studio Weber & Associates General Support Mrs Jo Ann H Pirsch Ms Kirsten M Ford Mrs Helen P Gossell Dr William Henderson Ms Marit Lee Kucera Professor C Robert & Sandra M Morris Mr Richard E Nelson Linda Nelson-Mayson Robert R & Lois J Pflueger Mrs Janice L Sickbert
Donation to Collection Susan J & Roger J Feulner Ms Patricia Gessner Dr Donald C Johnson S Catherine Mc Intire Marcia J McCabe Dorothy F Saltzman
Winter 2010 GMD
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364 McNeal Hall 1985 Buford Avenue St. Paul, MN 55108
How Secretaries Changed the 20th-Century Office: DESIGN, IMAGE, AND CULTURE
DoMore Swivel Office Health Chair Made in about 1925 Manufactured by DoMore Chair Company, Elkhart, IN Metal and leather chair with casters Gift of the Department of Design, Housing and Apparel