GOOD COMPANY
VA L E N T I N E S E D I T I O N COCOA INSPIRED DISHES TO MAKE JUST ABOUT ANYONE YOUR VALENTINE
RECIPES & FOOD STYLING
Erin Mcdowell and Derek Laughren PROP STYLING Alexis Anthony
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F O R T H E TA S T E B U D S
THE HEART
On a day when we are conditioned to be fixated on living up to a romantic comedy, or what might be missing in our lives, we hope that you’ll throw all that nonsense out the window and tuck in with some good food and Good Company. This month we are in love with what Erin McDowell, Derek Laughren, and Alexis Anthony bring to our Round Table. When McDowell and Laughren approached us with a menu of cocoa inspired recipes, our response was, you had me at cocoa powder everywhere. Then we asked Anthony to help us bring it all together with her effortless sense of style and whimsy. These recipes are great for one, two, or a crowd; make just one and you’ll be just about anyone’s valentine. Imagine how you might light up the day for the postman, or everyone at the office when they receive a valentine brownie from you. Or imagine how you might feed your own heart and sense of pride when you conquer that 17 ingredient mole that you’ve always wanted to make. Which ever one you decide to try, sit back and relish in being the modern day cupid. May you always be in Good Company Bobbi + Debi
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R O U N D TA B L E 3.2 THE VALENTINES EDITION
Derek Laughren and Erin McDowell met at a roller rink, bonded over being Midwesterners living in New York’s Hudson Valley, and discovered that they shared a connection to the nearby Culinary Institute of America. They began working together in the cookbook publishing department the next day, and have been working together ever since! (Valentine’s Day bonus: they’re also totally crazy about each other.) Erin is a food stylist and writer, Derek runs the test kitchen at Food52, and they work together whenever they get a chance (including, but is not limited to, some pretty incredible midnight snacks)..
What are your philosophies and words to live by when it comes to food and cooking? E: I want people to stop being afraid of cooking. Food is beautiful and wonderful, even when it’s simple. If the pie is a little wonky, if the steak is a little rare, if the ice cream melts a little...no one will notice as soon as the fork hits their mouth. Cook for the people you love, then sit back and enjoy the meal. D: Treat the ingredients with care and cook for people you care about. What are you inspired by? E: Anything! Everything! The change of the seasons, a trip to somewhere new, or some new produce I discovered at the market. My mother is an incredible cook who has always inspired me in the kitchen (her garden makes me green with envy). Nowadays, Derek inspires me beyond belief: he pushes me and helps me make ideas into reality (and helps keep me clean while I work...usually). D: Creative collaboration. I’m constantly inspired by the creative minds in the Food52 studio. I love working with photographers and stylists who aren’t afraid to experiment and get a little weird with some shots. Who are your personal heros when it comes to food? E: The aforementioned mama McDowell, plus any chef or cook I meet. Everyone has some incredibly tasty tidbit to offer from their experience, travels, and kitchen experiments. D: I used to watch a ton of the public access television shows. Some of my favorites are Ming Tsai, Lidia Bastianich, Jacques Pepin, and Julia Child. I’ll also never forget one of my first chefs that I worked for, Xavier LeRoux. He apprenticed at 14 in France and spent his whole life devoted to the pursuit of culinary perfection. He always handled every ingredient with respect and had a no-nonsense attitude that was balanced by a real passion for teaching. What inspired you for these recipes? E: We wanted the food to be sexy and deeply flavorful. D: Erin was really the creative genius behind all of the sweet chocolatey goodness. For the savory, we just bounced ideas off of each other and tried to get a little weird with the ways we incorporated chocolate. Is the anything you’d like to say about cooking for each other and cooking for friends aka “good company”? E: I love cooking for Derek, because he doesn’t just eat food, he savors it. He eats slowly, taking in each flavor, texture, and aroma. I think that’s the best advice for all good company: slow down, enjoy it - there’s such pleasure to be found. True for food, true in life. D: I love cooking with Erin at home and on the job. There’s something very rewarding about cooking with someone that fits your kitchen groove, and this girl’s got groove. Of course, cooking is never as rewarding if you don’t get to share it with people you care about. All the heat and messy dishes and execution are worth it when you get to see a friend’s eyes pop open after tasting something you’ve cooked well. That’s one of my favorite parts of the day at work. Once we’ve gotten all the shots, we put out the food for the office to try. Not everyone is going to love everything, but it’s still fun to talk about recipes with curious and creative people. It’s great to be able to look back on all the great images from the day, and chow down with good company! pe
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HOMEMADE CRACKERS?
Oh yes you can. TOPPED WITH BRIE AND RASPBERRIES,
Oh no you didn’t.
A SMALL BITE BUILT TO IMPRESS
The idea for this combination came from a building of flavors. Savory chocolate complemented by a little bit of sweet – raspberries! -E.M.
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COCOA-RYE CRACKERS Makes 2 dozen crackers
MELTY BRI E + RASPBERRY ON COCOA CRACKERS Makes about 12 servings as an appetizer
1 CUP RYE FLOUR 1 CUP ALL PURPOSE FLOUR 2/3 CUP COCOA POWDER 1 TSP SALT, PLUS MORE TO FINISH 1 TSP INSTANT DRY YEAST 1 CUP WARM WATER ¼ CUP COCOA NIBS, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
6 OZ TRIPLE CRÈME BRIE 1 PINT RASPBERRIES 1 RECIPE COCOA RYE CRACKERS
1. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, mix the rye flour, all purpose flour, cocoa powder, and salt to a combine. 2. Add the yeast and water and mix on medium speed until the dough forms a smooth ball, 2-3 minutes. 3. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes to 1 hour. 4. Preheat the oven to 400º Fahrenheit, and line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Divide the dough into four pieces. Working one at a time, roll the dough to 1/8” thick on a lightly floured surface. Use a pastry wheel to cut the dough into squares about 2x2 inches (or any shape you like!).
1. Preheat the oven to 425º Fahrenheit. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and arrange the crackers on the sheet (they can be fairly close to one another). 2. Gently spread 1-2 tablespoons of brie onto each cracker. In a medium bowl, smash the raspberries slightly with a fork. Top each cracker with about 1 tablespoon of smashed raspberries. 3. Place the baking sheet on the top rack of the oven and bake until the cheese is melty and the raspberries have released some of their juices, 2-3 minutes. Serve warm.
5. Transfer the squares to the prepared baking sheets – they can be fairly close to one another, they won’t spread. Sprinkle with chopped cocoa nibs and additional salt, and bake until crisp, 20-25 minutes. Cool completely.
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YOU HAD ME AT COCOA POWDER...
A riff on the valentines day bon bon.
Recipe on page 15
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CHOCOLATE PASTA SOUNDS LIKE AN EXPERIMENT GONE WRONG
but it’s a classic preparation in some parts of Italy. Rather than being sweet, it lends a bitter note to the pasta, which pairs excellently with cream sauces and seafood. -E.M.
CO COA PASTA DO UG H Makes about 1 pound
2 ¼ CUP ALL PURPOSE FLOUR ¾ CUP DARK COCOA POWDER 1 TSP SALT 4 LARGE EGGS
1. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, cocoa, and salt to combine. 2. Make a well in the center of the mixture, and crack the eggs into it. Use a fork to gradually incorporate the flour into the eggs. At first, the mixture will be sticky. Eventually, it will come into a solid ball. 3. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth, 3-4 minutes. 4. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes before using.
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SHRIMP FILLED COCOA RAVIOLI WITH CREAMY SEAFOOD INFUSED PARMESAN SAUCE Makes 6 servings
RAVIOLI 1 LB (16-20 CT) SHRIMP, SHELLED (SHELLS RESERVED) AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED 1 MEYER LEMON, ZESTED 1 TBSP GRAINY DIJON MUSTARD ½ CUP FINELY GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE 1 TBSP DRIED TARRAGON LEAVES, CRUMBLED ½ CUP MINCED SHALLOT 2 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED GROUND BLACK PEPPER, TO TASTE 1 LB COCOA PASTA
SAUCE 4 CUPS WHOLE MILK 4 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED RESERVED SHELLS FROM 1 LB SHRIMP 4 TBSP UNSALTED BUTTER 3 TBSP ALL PURPOSE FLOUR 1/3 CUP GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE 3 TBSP HEAVY CREAM SALT AND GROUND BLACK PEPPER, TO TASTE
1. In a medium bowl, combine the ingredients for the filling and mix well. Keep chilled until ready to shape the pasta. 2. Divide the pasta dough into four pieces and run it through your pasta maker until it’s \very thin (setting 4 was perfect on our machine). Transfer the sheets to a lightly floured surface, and keep covered with a towel. 3. To shape the ravioli, mark the pasta gently with a 3 inch round cookie cutter (or the bottom of a glass) – just score the dough – all across. Place 2 teaspoons of filling in the center of each scored round. 4. Top the sheet with a second pasta sheet, pressing firmly around the filling to remove pockets of air. Use the same cutter to cut through both layers of pasta, encasing the filling. Score the edges of the finished ravioli to seal. 5. Repeat with the remaining pasta dough and filling. Reserve the finished ravioli covered loosely in plastic wrap while working. 6. To make the sauce, bring the milk, garlic, and shrimp shells to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer gently until good flavor develops and reduces by 1/2, 40-45 minutes. 7. Strain the mixture, reserving the liquid. In the pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes – do not allow to brown. 8. Whisk in the milk gradually, whisking constantly to ensure even consistency and no lumps. Continue until all milk is added. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally, until the mixture has thickened, 5-6 minutes. Stir in the parmesan, and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm. 9. To finish the ravioli, bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the ravioli and cook until they float to the surface, 6-7 minutes. Drain well, and serve warm with the prepared sauce.
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I F YO U R E A L LY WA NT TO SEDUCE WI TH CHOCOLATE...
mole over a slow roasted pork shoulder, because roses are so JV.
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SLOW ROASTED PORK WITH CHOCOLATE MOLE Makes 12 generous servings
PORK ¼ CUP COARSELY GROUND COFFEE ¼ CUP COARSELY GROUND BLACK PEPPER 2 TBSP COARSELY GROUND WHOLE CORIANDER 2 TBSP COARSELY GROUND WHOLE CUMIN ¼ CUP GROUND CHIPOTLE PEPPER
2 TBSP GROUND CINNAMON ¼ CUP LIGHT BROWN SUGAR ¼ CUP GARLIC POWDER ½ CUP KOSHER SALT ¼ CUP DARK COCOA POWDER 1 (APPROX. 10 LB) BONE IN, SKIN ON PORK SHOULDER
CHOCOLATE MOLE 4 DRIED ANCHO CHILES 4 DRIED GUAJILLO CHILES 1/3 CUP BLACK SESAME SEEDS 1 STAR ANISE 2 TSP CUMIN SEEDS 1 TSP CORIANDER 3 CLOVES 1 TBSP BLACK PEPPERCORNS 1 TBSP GROUND CINNAMON
2 TBSPS OLIVE OIL 6 PLUM TOMATOES 7 CLOVES GARLIC 1 YELLOW ONION, QUARTERED ½ CUP ALMONDS ½ CUP PUMPKIN SEEDS 4-5 CUPS CHICKEN BROTH 3 ½ OUNCES MEXICAN CHOCOLATE, CHOPPED
1. Preheat the oven to 225º Fahrenheit. In a small bowl, combine the coffee, pepper, coriander, cumin, chipotle, cinnamon, brown sugar, garlic powder, salt, and cocoa powder to combine. 2. Rub the mixture into the pork, coating all sides thoroughly, and really rubbing the seasoning in. 3. Place the seasoned pork onto a rack on a baking sheet. Roast the pork until it’s very tender and the skin is crispy, 10-12 hours (yes, you can do it overnight). You can baste the pork occasionally with the fat that renders from the pork. 4. While the pork cooks, make the sauce. Bring 2 cups of water to a boil, and place the chiles in a small, heat safe bowl. Pour the boiling water over the chiles and let hydrate for 30 minutes. Drain the chiles, and remove the stem and seeds. 5. In a spice grinder, grind the sesame seeds, anise, cumin, coriander, cloves, peppercorns, and cinnamon to a smooth paste. 6. In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium high heat. Working in batches, cook the tomatoes until they are blistered and split, remove from the pot and coarsely chop. Do the same with the garlic and onion, cooking until lightly blackened and tender, then remove the peels and roughly chop. 7. Place the chopped vegetables, hydrated chiles, spice paste, almonds, pumpkin seeds, and broth back into the pot and bring to a simmer over low heat. Simmer until the sauce has thickened slightly and has good flavor, 35-40 minutes. 8. Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend until totally smooth. Return the mixture to the pot and bring to a simmer. Stir in the chocolate. Reserve the sauce, warm, until ready to serve. 9. To serve the pork, ladle the sauce directly over the pork, then carve off pieces (it’s very easy, the pork is so tender it will fall off the bone). Serve with more sauce on the side.
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THE FIGHT OVER “ THE PERFECT BROWNIE ” IS NEVER ENDING It’s rich and chewy, with intensely chocolate flavor, and a gorgeous, shiny surface. If you wanted to make a double batch, you could probably make just about anyone your Valentine. -E.M.
EXTRA FUDGY BROWNIES Makes 1 ½ dozen
6 OZ SEMISWEET CHOCOLATE, CHOPPED 4 OZ BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE, CHOPPED 1 ½ STICKS (6 OZ) UNSALTED BUTTER, CUBED 1 ½ CUPS GRANULATED SUGAR 3 EGGS 1 EGG YOLK 1 TSP VANILLA EXTRACT ¾ CUP ALL PURPOSE FLOUR ¾ TSP SALT
1. Grease a 9x13 inch pan with nonstick spray, and line with parchment, leaving a 1” overhang on each side. Preheat the oven to 350º Fahrenheit. 2. In a medium heat safe bowl, combine the chocolate and butter. Place over a small pot of simmering water and heat, stirring occasionally, until completely melted. Set aside to cool slightly. 3. In another medium bowl, whisk the sugar, eggs, egg yolk, and vanilla extract. Add the chocolate mixture and mix to fully combine. 4. Add the flour and salt, mixing just until combined. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, and bake until the top is shiny and crackly and the brownies are just set, 20-25 minutes. Cool completely before slicing and serving.
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5 S TA R D E S S E R T S ISSUE 3 V3
02.22.15
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