GOOD ORGANIC grow naturally, eat fresh, live sustainably JO IMMIG THE TRUTH ABOUT PALM OIL
JENNIFER STACKHOUSE MID-SUMMER GARDEN MAINTENANCE CLEVER CROPS: SAFFRON & ROSELLA
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CONTENTS
32
Contents 6
Editor’s Note Happy New Year! A new look and a new feel, plus we say farewell to one friend and welcome another 8 The Grapevine Jo Immig tells us the sad truth about palm oil and the impact its harvest has on wildlife and the environment 10 Readers’ Forum Horticulturist Melissa King answers our readers’ gardening questions 12 Clever Crops Jennifer Stackhouse tells us about two red beauties: saffron and rosella 12
4 | Good Organic Gardening
14 Plant Profile Mushrooms: the secrets behind these nutritional powerhouses and the intriguing varieties available 18 Power Plant With its mystical associations, angelica is an interesting herb to cultivate 20 Family Heirloom Melissa King tells us about easy-to-grow beetroot — a favourite all year-round 24 Gardening Folk Learn more about the garden of Greenpatch Organic Seed owners, Neville and Sophia Donovan
42
28 Gardening Folk The story of how a suburban garden in Victoria grew to become one for the local community 30 Gardening Folk Sophia Konstantyniuk hired garden designer Chris Williams to help her establish her edible oasis 24
36 Time To Plant Rosemary and thyme, two of the most useful herbs, are ready for summer planting 38 Garden Solutions The very-distinctive red-shouldered leaf beetle has a voracious appetite
CONTENTS 40 Garden Solutions How to stop pear or cherry slugs from damaging fruit trees 42 The Underground Step-by-step no-dig gardening explained by permaculture teacher Danielle Wheeler 46 Gardening Tips Our sustainable gurus, Arthur and Rosemary Lathouris, share their top-ten tips 48 Weekend Gardening Summer’s heat is on and horticulturist Claire Bickle has ideas on how to shade your edibles from the sun
50 Weekend Gardening Biodynamic fruit grower John Priestley has a simple recipe to deal with fruit fly 52 The Shed In our home-brewing special, expert Colin Penrose shares brewing tips and discusses the growing demand for organic ingredients 56 Things To Do Jennifer Stackhouse offers advice on gardening tasks for January and February 60 Feathered Friends Megg Miller explains how to sensitively and carefully deal with broody hens
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68 20
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64 Professional Organics Organic egg production embraces more than just raising hens. We talk to Oxhill and Organigrow 68 From Garden To Glass Fresh summer drinks — some with a little New Year cheer — for you to juice or blend 72 From Garden To Table How to grow, harvest, store and preserve four summer edibles, plus healthy, delicious recipes from chef Joanna Rushton 95 Cover To Cover We review some of the latest books for gardeners and cooks 96 What’s New Our pick of the crop of products and services for gardeners and cooks
Good Organic Gardening | 5
Editor’s note January/February issue Editor Diane Norris Managing Editor Kerry Boyne Design Jarrad McCallum Sub-Editor Kerry Boyne Horticultural Consultant Jennifer Stackhouse Contributors Claire Bickle, Kerry Boyne, Kirsten Bradley, Jo Immig, Melissa King, Arthur Lathouris, Rosemary Lathouris, Megg Miller, Diane Norris, Colin Penrose, Natalie Raad, Joanna Rushton, Jennifer Stackhouse, Danielle Wheeler Food photography Helen Coetzee & Diane Norris Advertising Manager Miriam Keen Ph: 02 9887 0604 | Fax: 02 9878 5553 Mob: 0414 969 693 Email: mkeen@universalmagazines.com.au Horticultural Consultant Jennifer Stackhouse Cover Photo Bigstock and courtesy of Greenpatch Organic Seeds & The Diggers Club
Chairman/CEO Prema Perera Publisher Janice Williams Chief Financial Officer Vicky Mahadeva Associate Publisher Emma Perera Associate Publisher Karen Day Circulation Director Mark Darton Creative Director Kate Podger Editorial Production Manager Karina Piddington Print Production Manager Lilian Ohanessian Prepress Manager Ivan Fitz-Gerald Subscriptions Manager Chelsea Peters Subscription enquiries: 1300 303 414 Circulation enquiries to our Sydney head office: (02) 9805 0399 Good Organic Gardening Vol. 4 No. 5 is published by Universal Magazines Pty Ltd, Unit 5, 6-8 Byfield Street, North Ryde, NSW 2113, Australia. Phone: (02) 9805 0399, Fax: (02) 9805 0714. Printed by KHL Printing Co Pte Ltd, Singapore. Distributed by Network Services, Phone: (02) 9282 8777. This book is copyright. Apart from any fair dealing for the purpose of private study, research, criticism or review as permitted under the Copyright Act, no part may be reproduced by any process without written permission. Enquiries should be addressed to the publishers. The publishers believe all the information supplied in this book to be correct at the time of printing. They are not, however, in a position to make a guarantee to this effect and accept no liability in the event of any information proving inaccurate. Prices, addresses and phone numbers were, after investigation and to the best of our knowledge and belief, up to date at the time of printing, but the shifting sands of time may change them in some cases. It is not possible for the publishers to ensure that advertisements which appear in this publication comply with the Trade Practices Act, 1974. The responsibility must therefore be on the person, company or advertising agency submitting the advertisements for publication. While every endeavour has been made to ensure complete accuracy, the publishers cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. The opinions expressed by individual writers in Good Organic Gardening are not necessarily those of the publishers. *Recommended retail price ISSN 1837-9206 Copyright © Universal Magazines MMXIV ACN 003 026 944 www.universalmagazines.com.au Please pass on or recycle this magazine.
O
ur summer edition sees the start of the second year since our magazine’s exciting relaunch. It has been a great year and, as you can see, there are a few changes still happening. First, we are saying goodbye and welcome at the same time. Our wonderful friend and chef extraordinaire, Simon Bryant, is off on another venture for the next year or two. I spent several days with Simon and his assistant, Carolyn Blanks, photographing culinary creations and sampling the delicious delights. We thank Simon for his generosity, sense of humour, commitment to food providence and the professional contribution he made to our magazine. We all wish him the fondest of farewells. Simon, in turn, has asked me to pass on to our new chef a warm welcome. So that brings us to a welcoming hello to Joanna Rushton – The Organic Chef. I was invited to attend one of Joanna’s workshops last year and was captivated by her skill, enthusiasm, knowledge and organic ethos — not to mention her humour, friendliness and warmth. Jo is the author of Rocket Fuel on a Budget, a cookbook like no other – guiding would-be cooks in preparing wholesome, natural food easily and efficiently — and without enormous expense. We hope you enjoy Jo’s nutritious recipes, tips and secrets in our From Garden to Table pages. Welcome Jo - it is a privilege to have you join our team! Most magazines evolve continually and you may notice the new look and feel of ours. We have chosen a new paper-stock that’s wood-free and bamboo-based but still FSC-certified from responsible sources. We hope this eco-friendly paper gives you smooth and earthy reading pleasure. We are very proud of the professional gardening information on our pages but we are equally pleased to bring you important environmental news too. One of our most popular and thoughtprovoking features is The Grapevine, compiled by Jo Immig, an environmental scientist, writer and photographer who is passionate about all things organic. Jo is also the coordinator of the National Toxics Network. I first met her when I was invited to contribute to the Total Environment Centre’s Safer Solutions program, back in 2002. Jo brings an authoritative voice to our news pages, which generate a lot of feedback. In this issue, don’t miss her exposé on palm oil, which is used extensively by processed food manufacturers. We need to be aware of the damage it’s doing to our environment and the threat posed to the survival of critically endangered animals. We also have a special feature on home brewing in this edition. Many beer makers are looking for organic ingredients and the demand in Australia is outstripping supply. Expert beer maker, Colin Penrose presents the basics on how to home brew and we tell you how to grow hops in your garden should you wish to give it a go. It will be a few hot months in your patch, so take the time to read our advice for summertime garden activity and protection of your plants.
Diane Norris is the editor of Good Organic Gardening. She has written for Burke’s Backyard magazine, Backyard & Garden Design Ideas, Gourmet Kitchen, Greenhouse Living and Organic WellBeing. She was the editor of Sustainable & Waterwise Gardens and Good Gardening Guide. Diane has lived an organic lifestyle for more than 26 years and is committed to doing things the way Mother Nature intended. Unashamedly earthy, she promotes sustainable and organic living solutions while advocating an awareness of nature and wild places through her photography and writing.
Simon Bryant
Joanna Rushton
Happy New Year
Diane Norris
We are a member of
See us on facebook at www.facebook.com/GoodOrganicGardeningMagazine Or contact us via email: infoGOG@universalmagazines.com.au
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THE GRAPEVINE | News
the grapevine Environmental news and updates compiled by Jo Immig The orang-utan’s future is in your hands Words by Jo Immig hat do your shopping choices and the survival of critically endangered Sumatran and Bornean orang-utans, rhinoceroses, elephants and tigers have in common? Answer: palm oil. The seeds of the oil palm (Elaeis guineensis) are used to make palm kernel oil while its fruit produces palm oil. These oils are now used extensively by processed food manufacturers as replacements for unhealthy trans fats associated with bad cholesterol and heart disease. Palm oil has been a boon to the processed-food industry as a relatively cheap source of vegetable oil. It’s used in a wide range of products including ice-creams, cooking oils, margarines, chocolates, biscuits and mueslis. It’s also used to make soap, detergents, shampoos, toothpaste, cosmetics and biofuels. The oil palm, originally from West Africa, was introduced into Indonesia and Malaysia where 85 per cent of the world’s crop is now grown in dense monoculture plantations managed with toxic pesticides. Papua New Guinea is also scaling up production.
W
The equivalent of around 300 football fields of rainforest is being cleared every hour to make way for new plantations. Every hour! In Indonesia alone, it’s estimated there are up to 15 million hectares of oil palm plantations. With their forest homes destroyed, plants and animals have nowhere else to live and are being pushed to the brink of extinction. It’s deeply disturbing that the Sumatran orang-utan could be the first great ape species to vanish from the wild within 20 years. And there are only 400 Sumatran tigers left, representing 12 per cent of the entire world’s tiger population. Widespread and rapid destruction of rainforest is also a significant contributor to climate change. Rainforest is cleared and burned and peat lands drained, releasing large amounts of methane, a
8 | Good Organic Gardening
far more potent greenhouse gas than carbon dioxide. The situation is dire but there are things we can do to help halt further depletion of rainforests and protect and replant habitats so that orang-utans, rhinoceroses, elephants and tigers have a fighting chance of survival.
Shopper’s guide to palm oil Around 40 per cent of products in supermarkets may contain palm oil, so there’s a high chance you’re unwittingly participating in forest destruction by purchasing these products. Please don’t feel guilty; use this as inspiration because your choices can make a real difference. Palm oil is not immediately recognisable on product labels because Food Standards Australia and New Zealand allow it to be labelled as generic vegetable oil. Only potentially allergenic oils such as peanut, sesame or soybean are required to be separately listed. According to the Australian Palm Oil Action Group, if you see vegetable oil listed as well as a saturated fat content of around 50 per cent, the chances are it’s palm oil.
Cleaning products aren’t required to list ingredients, which makes it extremely difficult for consumers to make informed choices. Even companies producing more eco-conscious cleaning products might not disclose it. Look for products that list their ingredients and make a statement about the source of palm oil if they use it (see below). Cosmetics by law must list palm oil but it’s usually listed as Elaeis guineensis, according to the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients. As a general rule, any ingredient that includes the word “palm”, such as palmitate and palmitoyl, includes palm oil. Other ingredients that could use palm oil include cetyl alcohol, isopropyl, sodium lauryl sulphate, steareths, fatty alcohol sulphates, glycerine, cocoa butter equivalent and cocoa butter substitute.
What about sustainable palm oil? The multi-stakeholder Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) was established in 2004 in response to the devastation palm oil plantations cause. Its aim is to “transform the market to make
Photos courtesy of Rainforest Rescue
Deforestation is death
Clearing for Oil Palms in Borneo
Mother and baby orang-utan
sustainable palm oil the norm”. It does this by applying global standards and certification processes to its members. According to its website, 14 per cent of palm oil globally is certified by the RSPO, which equates to about 1.6 million hectares or 7 million tonnes. It’s a good start, but there’s a long way to go and the scheme is not without its critics.
If you see vegetable oil listed as well as a saturated fat content of around 50 per cent, the chances are it’s palm oil. In a 2013 report, Certifying Destruction: Why Consumer Companies Need to Go Beyond the RSPO to Stop Forest Destruction, Greenpeace criticises the RSPO for continuing to allow its members to clear forests and drain peat lands and for failing to act when members breach standards. It also claims supply chains are not transparent and RSPO members are laundering dirty palm oil through the scheme.
This is where you come in Despite any shortcomings, the RSPO is at least trying to set the industry on a sustainable path. Some producers are looking beyond RSPO to ensure greater standards are met, so stay alert. In response to consumer demand (this is where you and I come in), some companies are making genuine efforts to ensure their supply chains are not causing deforestation. The demand for genuine sustainable palm oil is growing; hopefully the supply chain will catch up soon. To check your preferred brands for palm oil content and to find out which companies are trying to source sustainable palm oil, refer to Palm Oil Shopper Guides which are constantly updated in Get Active (below). Please tell your friends and family about palm oil, write letters, make phone calls, join a group, adopt an orang-utan, make donations, buy less processed food, choose products and companies doing the right thing. Your actions do make a difference.
Get active Palm Oil Action Group: www.palmoilaction.org.au Borneo Orangutan Survival Australia: www.orangutans.com.au Rainforest Rescue: www.rainforestrescue.org.au
Good Organic Gardening | 9
Q&A | Readers’ Forum
ask melissa Horticulturist and TV presenter Melissa King answers your cultivation questions
Q A
Wollemi Pine (Wollemia nobilis)
Q
I was given a Wollemi pine as a present and I’m unsure whether to plant it in a pot or out in the garden? The Wollemi pine is one of the world’s oldest trees, a living fossil that dates back to the time of the dinosaurs. It was rediscovered 10 years ago by a bushwalker trekking through the greater Blue Mountains area in NSW. In the wild it is a big tree — up to 40m high! But since it’s relatively new in cultivation we are unsure at this point just how big it will grow in a garden situation. If you’ve got a big block with lots of space for planting, then by all means put it in the garden but if you live on a suburban block or in a city apartment, plant it in a decorative container and enjoy it as a potted beauty for many years to come. And it makes a fantastic Christmas tree.
A
10 | Good Organic Gardening
Acacia ‘Lime Magik’
Q A
I have a habit of killing the dill. Can you tell me what I’m doing wrong? Dill has a distinctive flavour that goes beautifully with fish and eggs, so I can see why you would want to grow it. Dill is one of the annual herbs, so it will die off naturally after it has finished flowering, but I find it usually self-sows pretty easily. You can grow it from seed sown during the warmer months, but make sure you sow the seed where the plant is going to grow because it gets very unhappy if you transplant it. It grows best in full sun, but be sure to keep the water up through the hot, dry months.
Q A
Is it true that you can use lemon myrtle leaves in cooking? The lemon myrtle (Backhousia citriodora) is an Australian bush-tucker plant
Lemon Myrtle (Backhousia citriodora)
that grows in the wild from Brisbane to Rockhampton. It has strongly scented leaves that can be used to enhance sweet or savoury dishes that call for a lemony flavour. You could make lemon myrtle pudding or cheesecake — even lemon myrtle roast chicken. The leaves also make tasty citrus-flavoured muffins or biscuits. Aside from its culinary uses, it is a very attractive feature tree with glossy, evergreen leaves and pretty, fluffy, white flowers. Make a feature of it in a natural-style garden or grow it in a big decorative pot on a sunny balcony. My tip: fertilise it regularly throughout the warmer months to encourage lots of new growth that you can harvest for the kitchen. As with all bush foods, make sure you identify the plant correctly before eating.
Q A
I’m having trouble with ants in my pot plants. Can you help? Try immersing your ant-infested pots in a tub or large container of water for a good 30 minutes or so and watch the ants escape for their lives. You might then like to try raising your pot plants off the ground to discourage ants from building their nests underneath. Have a good look at the plants you are growing, too: are there any signs of sucking insects such as scale or aphids? Sucking insects excrete a sticky, sweet substance called honeydew, which ants like to feed on. Eliminate the sucking insect problem and the ants will go elsewhere. You could also try repelling them with strongly scented herbs such as pennyroyal, spearmint or tansy. Email your queries to Melissa at infoGOG@universalmagazines.com.au
Photos by John Dalton & Melburnian
I’m after a beautiful native screening tree. Have you got any suggestions? Agonis ‘Burgundy’ would be my top choice. It has lovely, weeping, almost willow-like foliage with decorative burgundy new growth. In mid-spring the branches are smothered in small white tea-tree-like flowers. It grows to around 5m tall, so it makes the perfect screening plant along a fence or driveway. It’s also very tolerant of dry and coastal conditions, so does well with little water. You might also like to try Acacia ‘Lime Magik’. It’s a form of the Bower Wattle, Acacia cognata, with beautiful, weeping, limegreen foliage. It displays small, soft, yellow wattle flowers in late winter and early spring – but the real feature of this tree is the decorative foliage. It grows to around 4–5m tall and does best in a sunny or partly shaded position.
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CLEVER CROPS | Saffron Life support Saffron crocus can only survive through cultivation. It is no longer found in the wild and the flowers are sterile, so it can only be grown by dividing the clumps of corms, which are divided and replanted in late summer or autumn. For commercial production, clumps are lifted, divided and replanted each summer – but in home gardens it is enough to divide clumps every three years. To ensure strong growth, allow the thin, reedy foliage to die down naturally.
It has pretty blooms of lilac or purple, often with light stripes. Each flower has three deepred stigmas and three golden anthers and the blooms appear in autumn. Try planting new corms in summer or early autumn. It takes 150 flowers to produce 1g of dry saffron, so you will need to plant at least 30 corms to harvest 1g of spice! As the saffron crocus prefers a cool climate with moist but well-drained soils, it grows best in southern and highland areas of Australia. Commercial saffron production occurs in Tasmania and west of Sydney at Capertee. Flower production is best with full sun.
Saffron Crocus sativus
S
affron is a spice used to flavour and colour foods such as rice and chicken. Its red threads impart a rich yellow colour to food. Saffron is the most expensive spice in the world and, gram for gram, pricier than gold. Saffron can retail from $10/gram, with local or high-quality imported saffron costing up to $100/gram. When you realise saffron comes from a crocus flower, you understand why it is so expensive. Saffron threads are the stigma (the female part of the flower) and the style (the “stalk” that attaches the stigma to the flower).
12 | Good Organic Gardening
Each flower has three stigmas. As a bulb can produce four flowers, a good harvest from a single bulb is 12 strands of saffron. Saffron is harvested by hand, plucked in the early hours of the morning when the flower is fully open. The flowers bloom for just a few weeks, making for a short and intensive harvest period. After harvest the strands are dried. Although the saffron crocus is not known in the wild, its ancestors grew around the Mediterranean region. Today, most commercial saffron comes from Iran, but it is also grown in Afghanistan, Greece, Kashmir, Spain and Australia.
Saffron label Common name: Saffron crocus Botanical name: Crocus sativus Group: Bulb Requires: Full sun, well-drained soil Dislikes: Humidity, poor drainage Suitable for: Raised beds, bulb bed Habit: Autumn flowering; dormant spring to summer Needs: Avoid digging around dormant corms Propagation: Corms Difficulty: Moderate
Photos by Bigstock & 123RF
Words by Jennifer Stackhouse
Rosella | CLEVER CROPS
Rosella Hibiscus sabdariffa Words by Jennifer Stackhouse
I
Photo by 123RF
am sitting here thinking about the rosellas you eat and hearing rosella parrots prattling away quietly among the camellias. Despite sharing a name, there’s little connection between plant and bird or even any common origin for their identical names. The rosellas we grow in our vegetable garden are a hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa) and are cultivated for their edible flowers. The Macquarie Dictionary suggests the name is a corruption of roselle or red sorrel — names used in other parts of the world. The plant is native to tropical regions and grown throughout the tropical world. The same dictionary suggests the rosella parrot has a name derived by the corruption of a place name. Apparently, these birds were seen in large flocks at Rose Hill near Parramatta, in what is now western Sydney, in the early years of colonial Australia. They were known as “Rose Hillers”, which became rosellas.
Growing rosellas Rosellas are grown through the warmer months. They are scrappy-looking shrubs that produce small, single yellow or white hibiscus flowers through summer,
This is clever! Although we grow rosellas for the succulent calyx or to make herbal tea, its stems are used in other parts of the world to produce a fibre similar to jute, which is used to make burlap, a strong cloth. The plant also has medicinal properties and is used as a diuretic, laxative and even to treat heart conditions. The calyces are also infused and drunk to relieve coughs. They are high in vitamin C and anthocyanins, so are helpful for those recovering from illness.
followed by red fruits. Picked early, the swollen calyces are used to make delicious jams or preserved in syrup (drop one in a glass of sparkling wine) and are also the basis for hibiscus tea. The large-lobed leaves are also edible and are used in various Asian and Middle Eastern cuisines. Rosellas are grown from seed, which is directly sown as the soil warms in spring. It is a slow-maturing crop that can take around six months to ripen, which is why rosellas are best in tropical, subtropical and warm, frost-free coastal areas with long growing periods.
Watch out for hibiscus pests, including hibiscus beetle and metallic flea beetle, which can arrive en masse and pepper the leaves with tiny holes and cause the blooms to fall. Beetles are difficult to control organically other than by trapping. White containers (such as ice-cream containers) filled with water and a few drops of detergent and placed under plants may attract beetles away from them. Protecting your crop with fine gauze or netting may also keep insects away. The tiny beetles are difficult to squash as they have hard shells and are rarely disturbed by organic preparations.
Rosella label Common name: Rosella Botanical name: Hibiscus sabdariffa Group: Perennial grown as an annual Requires: Full sun, well-drained soil Dislikes: Cold conditions Suitable for: Vegie gardens in warm climates Habit: Summer flowering Needs: Long, warm growing season Propagation: Seed Difficulty: Moderate
Good Organic Gardening | 13
PLANT PROFILE | Mushrooms Grey (Silver) Oyster
The magic of mushrooms It takes very little space and not much eort to have lovely clusters of mushies appear almost out of nowhere
14 | Good Organic Gardening
Mushrooms | PLANT PROFILE The full breadth of Jamie and Pam’s productive organic garden
By Kirsten Bradley, Milkwood Permaculture
o you think you have no space to grow your own food? Perhaps it’s because your yard is shady or small. Or maybe you’re in an apartment, with no yard at all. Not to worry! Growing your own mushrooms could be the perfect project to add a little home-grown goodness to your diet, no matter where you live.
D
Mushrooms are the fruiting bodies of fungus and typically they pop up either on the soil’s surface or on the food source the fungus has been eating. Different mushrooms have different nutritional and medicinal properties, some of which even increase after harvest. Shiitake mushrooms, for example, have the unusual quality of increasing greatly in vitamin D content when dried in the sun. Depending on the type of fungus,
you can cultivate mushrooms on wood shavings, straw, soil or even grain that has been inoculated with the particular mycelium (the vegetative part of a fungus) you’re hoping to fruit from. Many tasty mushrooms will grow in any hospitable, contained environment, as long as the fungus has the right food. That environment could be a closed bucket or a bag — it doesn’t need to be outside in a garden or in an old train tunnel. J
Photos by Diane Norris
Learn from the experts Do you want to grow your own organic mushrooms from scratch? Milkwood can teach you how in their weekend Mushroom Cultivation courses. Students learn how to grow mushrooms with logs, bags and buckets to allow for whatever technique suits your backyard (or bathroom) best. See www.milkwood.net for upcoming course dates and locations. Chestnut
Good Organic Gardening | 15
PLANT PROFILE | Mushrooms Shemeji
Yellow Oyster
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Pink Oyster
Mushrooms | PLANT PROFILE
Enoki
Photos by Diane Norris
Nameko
The food fungi eat is called the substrate. When growing your own mushrooms from scratch, you first need to sterilise that substrate so your mycelium aren’t competing with other fungal spores that are naturally present in the air all around us. Once you’ve sterilised your substrate (coffee grounds, sawdust etc), you add your chosen mycelium, seal the bag or bucket and wait for the mycelium to colonise (ie eat) the substrate. Where you place your bags or buckets of future mushrooms is up to you, but it doesn’t need to be in a backyard. Anywhere that is not too hot and has a reliable and stable temperature is great. Light won’t bother your bags one way or the other; it’s all about moisture and temperature.
The laundry cupboard, under your back stairs or in a corner of the study would be just fine. And this is the great thing about growing mushrooms: once you have made or bought your bags or buckets of mycelium, they exist in a closed system until fruiting time. This means you don’t have to worry about your house being eaten by fungi (that might sound crazy but some people do worry) while your mycelium is quietly eating all its substrate and getting ready to fruit. Once your container is fully colonised with the mycelium, it’s fruiting time. You’ll be opening up some holes in your container to enable the fungi to slowly bloom out into the world — in the form of a cluster of mushrooms.
Swiss Brown
Now is the step where you do need to look after your future mushrooms a bit so they can develop happily and produce much deliciousness. The trick of looking after mushrooms during the fruiting phase is humidity and moisture. You need to keep your fruiting container moist. Often the best spot to do this at home is on the kitchen bench (where you’ll see your container multiple times a day and remember to give them a quick squirt with a water mister). Another good idea (if no one in your family objects and you can find a spot) could be the bathroom – allowing your mushrooms to benefit from all that steam. Wherever you decide to fruit your “shrooms”, keep them somewhere you go every day so you can easily check their progress. And, before you know it, you’ll be adding fresh mushrooms to the menu.
Woodear
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POWER PLANT | aNGELICA dill, fennel, parsley, celery, coriander, anise, caraway and chervil, angelica is a biennial in cooler climes but acts like a perennial in subtropical areas. The plant has glossy, deeply indented leaves and can grow to 2m high and almost a metre wide, so it needs some room. It produces umbels of greenish-white flowers in summer. The flowers attract many beneficial insects and pollinators. Angelica contains bittering agents, essential oils, flavonoids, tanning agents, resins, silica, carbohydrates, coumarins, organic acids and terpenes.
Growing
Angelica Archangelica officinalis Once said to have powers that go beyond those of most herbs — even into the realm of the supernatural — angelica is a plant with many uses
T
hough there are ornamentals among the 30-odd varieties of angelica, you wouldn’t really grow the medicinal one, Archangelica officinalis, also known as garden angelica, for its looks, although the dried seed heads are quite striking. In days gone by, however, you might have grown it to ward off witches and evil spirits or perhaps as a remedy for poisoning or the plague. These beliefs in its magical powers originated in pagan times but with the spread of Christianity the plant became linked with angelic protection and was associated with the festival of the Annunciation. Such beliefs are evident in its name, though another common explanation for the name is that in the Northern Hemisphere it blooms on the feast day of Michael the Archangel (May 8). Its root was known as the Root of the Holy Ghost. Interestingly, Angelica archangelica is the only medicinal and aromatic plant with a Nordic origin and one of the few medicinal plants to have spread from north to south, probably with the help of monks, who often disseminated knowledge and samples of medicinal plants, which they gathered and
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took with them on their travels. In fact, angelica would have been the only medicinal plant for them to find so far north. In Scandinavia, angelica has kept its native name kvanne (also kvan and kvann). The Sami people, indigenous inhabitants of the Arctic region, have traditionally used it extensively as both a vegetable and a therapeutic herb. They were even known to smoke it in place of tobacco. These days, Archangelica officinalis still has much credibility as a medicinal plant, but home gardeners are also likely to grow it for the fragrant chopped roots, a common ingredient in potpourri, or to crystallise the stems to make a bright-green, sweetly flavoured cake decoration, as on traditional Sicilian cassata, for example. You’re not likely to be making your own gin, vermouth, Benedictine or Chartreuse any time soon, even if you do grow this aromatic herb – but angelica seeds have long been used to flavour these and other alcoholic drinks.
A moisture-loving variety, garden angelica also likes a semi-shaded position, so is handy for filling a spot that’s not so good for other edibles. It can be grown from seed or seedling and harvested in its second year. Sow in late summer or spring in moist, fertile soil, but don’t wait more than a few weeks before planting as the seeds quickly lose their viability. Mulch seedlings and give a light feed of organic fertiliser for the growing period. Cut the plant back to soil level in autumn and mulch. Young plants will die back in winter and, though able to withstand low temperatures and frost, will benefit from mulching in frost-prone areas. The plants will start to grow again in spring. While sandier soils put the plant in danger of drying out quickly, they do make it easier to clean the roots if you are growing it mainly for them. Just be sure to keep the water up to it if your soil is on the sandy side. Whatever your soil type, make sure there’s adequate drainage as the roots may rot if too wet for too long.
Harvesting Leaves can be harvested at any time in the growing season, while the hollow stems and seeds are usually harvested in late summer. For angelica that’s planted in spring, roots can be harvested in autumn when the plant is dormant and the essential oils are at their most concentrated. If sown in late summer, harvest roots in the second autumn. Once the plant has had two seasons, it can be discarded, so it’s best to plant a new plant or two each year so you have some ready for harvest each year. The roots should be cut carefully so as not to damage them and in big pieces as active ingredients may be lost through cutting. They should be dried as quickly as possible, then stored in an air-tight container so they will retain their medicinal powers for some years.
Using Description A member of the Apiaceae (formerly Umbelliferae) family, which also includes carrot,
All parts of the plant can be used: roots, leaves, seeds and stems. Angelica is said to possess carminative, stimulant, diaphoretic, stomachic,
Angelica | POWER PLANT
Interestingly, Angelica archangelica is the only medicinal and aromatic plant with a Nordic origin and one of the few medicinal plants to have spread from north to south, probably with the help of monks. tonic and expectorant properties and is known as a remedy for colds, coughs, pleurisy, wind, colic, constipation, cramps, ulcers, digestive disorders, rheumatism – and urinary tract and menstrual problems. The leaves can be made into a tea that acts as a tonic for settling an upset stomach or warding off colds and flu — as can the chopped roots — or put in bathwater to aid relaxation. They can also be added to salads and in cooking they will temper the acidity of rhubarb and acidic fruits. The seeds, chopped root and sap can be used in potpourri and the stems candied for use in cakes along with other candied fruits. Young stems can be eaten like celery. Although the whole plant is aromatic and the leaves and seeds are traditionally used for medicinal purposes, only the root is included in the Swiss, Austrian and German pharmacopoeias.
Carmelite water Originally a cologne as well as a digestive, this herbal spirit was formulated by 17th-century cloistered Carmelite nuns in France. There are many recipes but common to all are angelica root, lemon balm, lemon peel, nutmeg, alcohol and often coriander seeds. Sometimes the alcohol is vodka, sometimes brandy and, less often, white wine. It’s very simple to make from readily available ingredients (the hardest to find will be the angelica unless you grow it). Drink a small amount before or after meals to aid digestion. Ingredients 1 cup chopped fresh lemon balm 1 tsp crushed coriander seeds Pinch freshly grated nutmeg ⅓ cup chopped angelica root or stem Zest of one lemon Vodka or brandy * If you like a lot of spice, you can also add a piece of cinnamon stick and a few cloves. Method Gently pound the herbs using a mortar and pestle and place in a wide-mouthed jar along with the other dry ingredients. Cover completely with the alcohol of choice to at least 5cm over the dry ingredients. Seal with a lid and leave to macerate for a few weeks, gently shaking occasionally and making sure the herbs are still covered. If they rise above the liquid, add more alcohol. Strain into a clean bottle.
Gluten-Free CHERRY CLAFOUTIS In Australia, cherries herald the festive season, and are enjoyed for their decorative quality and delicious sweet red ¾esh. Clafoutis is a simple French dish of black cherries served warm in a ¾an-like batter. 2 tbsp almond meal 2 tbsp Stoney Creek Organic Flax Flour ¼ cup caster sugar Pinch salt 2 eggs 1 egg yolk 1 tbsp saf¾ower or sun¾ower oil 1tsp vanilla (or use a vanilla bean or vanilla sugar) 1 ¼ cups milk 200g ripe black cherries (retain pips to enhance flavour) Butter (to grease pan) Stir together almond meal, ¾our, sugar and salt. Make a well in the centre. Add eggs and yolk, work into a paste with a wooden spoon. Beat in oil, add milk, beating until light and smooth. Spread fruit evenly in bottom of a greased medium ¾an dish. Pour mixture over fruit, avoiding air pockets. Bake at 180º C for about 40mins or until a knife inserted comes out clean. Serve warm, dusted with icing sugar.
Stoney Creek Organic Flax Flour is gluten-free, high in protein and dietary ½bre, and a rich natural source of lignans. Ask for it at your local organic/health store or independent supermarket - or visit stoneycreekoil.com.au
Healthy Farm. Healthy Food. ® Good Organic Gardening | 19
FAMILY HEIRLOOMS | Beetroot
FAMILY HEIRLOOMS
Beetroot beauties By Melissa King resh garden-grown beetroot, whether baked, boiled or raw, is so delicious and sweet that it’s easy to forget you’re eating a vegetable. In fact, the sugar beet has been grown commercially for sugar production since the beginning of the 19th century. Sugariness aside, beetroot is surprisingly low in calories and packed with powerful cancer-fighting compounds. It’s also high in folic acid, which helps the body make healthy new cells and is particularly important during pregnancy for its important role in helping to prevent birth defects. Beetroots are as colourful as they are tasty and make a vibrant addition to any meal. What is perhaps not so well known is the value of beetroot foliage, which is ornamental both in the garden and on the plate. I use the green, golden or rubyred ribbed leaves much the same way as spinach or silverbeet: to bring a bit of colour and style to stir-fries and salads. The ‘Bull’s Blood’ beetroot is as rich in colour as the name suggests and is wonderfully sweet — with blood-red foliage
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to match. It makes a tasty beetroot, walnut and fetta salad or intensely coloured relish or dip — and make sure you use the decorative foliage in salads or stir-fries. ‘Chioggia’ beetroot is a visual feast. This purple-red beet looks quite ordinary on the outside but cut it down the centre and it’s striped like candy. It reminds me of an old-fashioned lollipop with its concentric rings of red and white flesh; a feast for the eyes and the tastebuds. Use it to create dishes where you can really show off, like a two-toned beetroot carpaccio with goat’s cheese, or I make it the star in the ultimate gourmet burger. Golden beetroots are the sweetest to eat and these brilliant yellow beets bring a touch of sunshine to the garden and plate. ‘Burpee’s Golden’ is one of the more popular types with orange beets that turn brilliant yellow when cooked. Combine roasted golden beets with ‘Bull’s Blood’ and ‘Chioggia’ beetroots in a warm salad and you’ll be the talk of the dinner party. There are also unusual white beetroots, which look rather turnip-like, and varieties with elongated roots that would rival that of a small carrot.
Photos by Bigstock & courtesy of Greenpatch Organic Seeds & The Diggers Club
If your only experience of beetroot is the canned variety, you are really missing out
Beetroot |
FAMILY HEIRLOOMS Beetroot mix (with white)
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FAMILY HEIRLOOMS | Beetroot
Burpees Gold Fresh organic beetroot
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Organic beets ready to harvest
Photos by Bigstock & courtesy of Greenpatch Organic Seeds & The Diggers Club
Growing Where I live in the south, beetroot seed is sown sometime from mid-spring to late autumn, so now is a great time to get your seeds into prepared ground. If you’re a subtropical or tropical gardener, you may have more success sowing your crop from late autumn to early spring because, despite beetroot being a warm-season crop, high heat and humidity may be detrimental to plant growth. Like other root vegetables, beetroot needs good drainage and plenty of sun, so dig in lots of compost and organic matter before planting. Plants do best in slightly alkaline or close-to-neutral conditions, so if your soil is strongly acidic it might be worth adding a bit of lime. Be sure to thin young seedlings to around 10cm apart in 30cm rows to give the roots ample room to develop and fertilise with a complete organic food, one that provides a good balance of nutrients for root and top growth.
Harvest Beetroots are ready to harvest in eight to 12 weeks. You can get a good indication of how big your beets are getting by gently scraping back a bit of the soil around the developing root. In most cases, a gentle tug
of the foliage is all it takes to harvest them. Baby beets are wonderfully sweet and can be harvested just six or so weeks from sowing, when they are roughly the size of golf balls. Roast and eat them
whole or boil them for fresh salads. The kids will love them! And remember — don’t discard the leaves. The younger, tender leaves are ideal for salads and the bigger ones add great bulk to a stir-fry.
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GARDENING FOLK | Neville & Sophia Donovan Neville and Sophia Donovan enjoy their garden — especially the borage patch which attracts bees and is also home to frogs, lizards and birds
A Patch of Green In Neville and Sophia’s acreage block, there’s room for a beautiful home garden as well as a thriving organic seed business Words by Diane Norris n our last issue we featured three organic seed growers and one of them has ignited our readers’ curiosity. So we’d like to share with you the story of Neville and Sophia Donovan’s home garden and how it has grown (literally) to become the source of Australia’s premier organic seeds and plants. Neville Donovan started in horticulture in 1976, his wife, Sophia, in 1981 – so both had a strong nursery background and the desire
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to use untreated certified seeds to grow food organically. In 1993, they set up Greenpatch Organic Seeds & Plants to make certified organic, non-hybrid, open-pollinated seeds available in Australia. The nursery has more than 260 varieties of herbs as well as edible, fruiting and rare old-style cottage garden plants. These are complemented by a selection of products including natural pest-control solutions, fertilisers, netting, calendars, charts and books.
The home garden Even though Neville and Sophia’s garden is larger than most, it’s worth knowing that their 12-acre (almost 5ha) block has a house garden as well as the productive seed garden and nursery. Three-and-a-half acres (1.5ha), according to Neville, are “under cultivation for seeds”, but that doesn’t mean their house garden isn’t productive too. Indeed, both gardens look and feel quite separate yet are curiously the similar. Neville and Sophia moved from the hills
Neville & Sophia Donovan | GARDENING FOLK
A spoonful of Squash Table Gem seeds that will be dried and saved
Banana passionfruit
Flanking the fence line behind the house are mature and fine-looking fruit and nut trees. Considering they’re less than 10 years old, they’re a testament to good garden husbandry. of Wherrol Flat 10 years ago and since then have established their garden anew on the mid north coast of NSW. As with a lot of semi-rural properties, there wasn’t much in the way of greenery — just a few eucalypts and a bare paddock out the back — so everything has been planted and lovingly nurtured. While it’s easy to think that only horticulturists or trained gardeners can achieve this sort of success, this is a story of practicality, trial and error and, as we all know, love and perseverance.
Photos by Stami & Neville Donovan
Love of herbs Sophia, thanks to her Greek heritage, is a wonderfully creative cook and uses fresh herbs daily, so she keeps a huge variety at the ready. The centrepiece of the beautifully ordered front garden is an oval herb garden featuring the larger herbs, a huge variety of geraniums as well as pelargoniums and a pungent Indian curry tree. It is a highly mounded garden, ensuring the herbs are given optimum growing conditions — full sun and perfect drainage — and the whole bed is mulched.
Near the kitchen door, Sophia has planted the essential herb kitchen garden where fresh parsley, basil, coriander, oregano, chillies and thyme await to be snipped and added to salads, dressings, stir-fries, pizza, soups, sauces and more. Sophia loves the self-sown tomatoes that have popped up in this garden along with the rambling, pretty nasturtiums that not only add colour but can be used to dress up salads. Shading this spot is a handsome kaffir lime with dark, glossy leaves that can be used in stirfries or picked and popped into the fridge for future use. The garden is a perfect example of the beauty of edible plants growing a bit on the naturally charming wild side. “These plants blend very well as they look good and are very happy to grow side by side,” says Sophia.
Vegies, fruits and nuts A netted vegie patch is bursting with healthy organic Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, cabbage and lettuce. It’s great to snip a little broccoli head and eat it as we explore — something that’s safe to do in the organic garden.
Weird and wonderful gourds
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GARDENING FOLK | Neville & Sophia Donovan
Fig ‘Black Genoa’ drying
Sophia loves the self-sown tomatoes that have popped up in this garden and the rambling, pretty nasturtiums that not only add colour but can be used to dress up salads. Shading this spot is a handsome kaffir lime. Neville says the white bird netting is best as the birds can easily see it and don’t get tangled, while its weave is small enough to keep out the pesky white cabbage butterfly. Access is easy through a large overlap, which is pegged together to close. Flanking the fence line behind the house are two long garden beds with many mature and fine-looking fruit and nut trees. Considering they’re less than 10 years old, they’re a testament to good garden husbandry. As Neville says, it’s the raised beds and attention to the care of the soil that have made the difference. Compost fertiliser pellets are dug in regularly and the beds are heavily covered with mulch and organic chaff from the property to retain vital moisture and keep weeds at bay.
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Neville adds, “We have learnt to grow a variety of fruiting trees that will complement our diet and also provide plant material for propagating.” These include a variety of macadamia, pecan, fig, guava (strawberryred and white ‘Allahabad’), Arabica coffee, gourds, bananas and all the citrus you can imagine: lemon, lime, orange, mandarin, grapefruit and more. Every specimen is in optimal health and, of course, grown organically from soil to fruit. On the other side of the “paddock”, one of the couple’s sons, Stami, has started several long fingers in which a variety of berries will be grown. When I visited the property, the posts and long wires were all in place ready for the canes to be planted: varieties of raspberry, boysenberry, jostaberry, thornless blackberry and loganberry.
Netted Guava Alahbad
Neville & Sophia Donovan | GARDENING FOLK Grapes will be added, too, including Isabella, Marroo Seedless, Waltham Cross and Black Muscat plus an ornamental variety specifically grown for use in the Greek dish dolmades (rice-stuffed vine leaves). Where the vines are to be planted, the ground had to be built up over a six-month period to avoid waterlogging and improve drainage. They used composted hardwood sawdust (untreated), crushed rock fines, certified potting mix and lots of mulch.
Business is pleasure Perhaps my favourite spot was between the fruit trees and the berry patch. Here metrehigh borage was in full bloom, providing hiding places for dozens of Blue Wrens and attracting bees to the space. It looked untamed, lush and almost like a mini jungle alive with wildlife, flowers, aroma and colour. Neville uses this as a green manure crop to nourish the soil for spring plantings. The key to the success of Neville and Sophia’s organic home garden is simply a love of plants. “I grew up with beautiful gardens surrounding me and home-grown vegetables in the Sydney suburb of Bexley,” says Neville. “Fine-tuning with nature and a sense of what’s happening in the garden have been a great teacher.” Neville and Sophia’s love of horticulture and organics has turned their passion into their livelihood and together they’ve built a blissful place to live in and enjoy every day.
Neville and Sophia’s tips
Neville says that white bird netting is best to protect crops — as shown here in the healthy brassica patch
Sophia’s essential herb garden in handy reach of the kitchen door
• Don’t panic — it’s organic • Be happy with whatever you do • Have an open mind • Help others if you can • Look after the environment you live in
Tasty organic raspberries
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GARDENING FOLK | Angela Kristens
Beyond the Back Fence How an ornamental suburban garden has become a sustainable source of produce Words & photos by Angela Kristens t all began three-and-a-half years ago with a small vegie patch and a large area of concrete. In 2005, I decided to add two ponds and a small bridge to my garden to create a more relaxing, aesthetically pleasing landscape. I later installed a water tank linked to my toilet to cut down on our water usage. Little did I know these were the first steps in a long journey toward the creation of a sustainable and productive garden. I wanted to reap more from my land. I was tired of buying tasteless supermarket
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produce and not being aware of where it came from or what chemicals it had been treated with. Plus, given my full-time workload, I needed and wanted to establish garden beds that did not require an excessive amount of maintenance.
Wicking ways One day, I came across an article about a man living in a flat who rode his bike to work. His car park was left unused, so he decided to install two apple crate “wicking beds” in the unoccupied space. I was
hooked and began searching the internet for a better understanding of wicking beds and their construction. Along with my partner, Kent, I built four apple crate wicking beds on the concrete area in our backyard. This enabled rainwater to fall on the garden beds without running off from the concrete, which meant the beds didn’t need as much maintenance. A deep watering system covered with lucerne further decreased evaporation. We added a few more garden beds for fruit trees but, being on a standard suburban block, I soon realised that to
Angela Kristens | GARDENING FOLK
Angie in her garden (main picture). A seat among the wicking beds (top right) and waiting for the real chooks to arrive (bottom right)
have a variety of trees they would have to be espaliered. We planted 15 all up along the fence line, facing either north or west. I also installed two rotating compost bins and two free-standing ones. The compost in the rotating bins becomes too moist over the winter, so I move it into the freestanding bins to allow mixing with dried leaves and older soil. This gives its texture a more friable consistency.
We planted two avocados, a dwarf persimmon, tamarillos, olives, apples, blueberries and gourmet pear trees and the front garden became an edible forest.
Front and back The front yard was next for our attention, beginning with a couple of garden beds featuring a red-brick path through the middle. But then it grew — and grew and grew! We laid a path around it and added more beds, continuing the front yard’s ornamental
theme of decorative plants and flowers. But we eventually decided we wanted to reap more from the front yard and planted two avocados, a dwarf persimmon, tamarillos, olives, apples, blueberries and gourmet pear trees. The front landscape became an edible forest.
Most of these plants are quite small and I continue monitoring them to see which thrives where. This helps with future planting decisions. The back lawn was next to go. We dug up half of it and added more vegie beds. Then the creeper came off the shed, which ď § Good Organic Gardening | 29
GARDENING FOLK | Angela Kristens
We built a herb bed outside the kitchen window and planted and espaliered apricot and plum trees nearby. They are quite fast-growing trees, which makes the espalier process a little trickier. uncovered a wasp nest — an interesting event as we scurried for the sanctuary of indoors to work out how to remove the nest without a trip to the doctor or, in fact, killing the wasps. (We eventually removed the nest without harm.) Removing the creeper allowed us to plant three kiwifruit and passionfruit vines over a lattice, which we attached to the roof of the shed. We also built a bed outside the kitchen window for our herbs and planted snd espaliered apricot and plum trees nearby. They are quite fast-growing trees, which makes the espalier process a little trickier.
Solar & water In 2011, we installed solar panels on our roof. Next on the agenda is to connect more tanks for the purpose of watering in the warmer months. Earlier this year, our garden was featured in the Transition Banyule Garden Tour, along with other local gardens. This provided me with an opportunity to visit other gardens and gather more knowledge and ideas. The next step was to choose between a chicken coup and an aquaponics system.
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The area set aside for the chickens wasn’t quite ready, so the aquaponics came first. I searched out all the information I could about aquaponics, visiting different setups to make an informed choice on exactly what I wanted. I eventually opted for a larger tank sunk into the ground with a bed built up around it, which allows an even temperature around the tank. At this stage, I am still waiting for the system to cycle, but I have high hopes for a successful outcome. My daughter and son-in-law are looking forward to a fresh fish dinner when the system’s trout are fully grown. My understanding of the cycle is that fish excrete ammonia, and good bacteria in the bed eat the ammonia and convert it to nitrite. Another bacterium, Nitrobacter sp, plays an important role in the nitrogen cycle by oxidising this nitrite into nitrate, which feeds the plants in the grow bed. We have 10 trout that leap out of the water for food and it still amazes me every time I see it. What I really love about these projects is trying new ideas, evaluating the results and marvelling at the beauty of nature along the way.
Community growth Two years ago, I received a leaflet about a new community garden planned for Ivanhoe.
The space earmarked for the project was just over my back fence. Until then, the property was owned by Ivanhoe Uniting Church and housed three tennis courts and some open, unused land that the church had kindly offered for the establishment of the community garden. Plots were measured out, fruit forests and compost bins were set up, an amazing shelter was built and we used as many recycled materials as we could. It was truly an exciting time. We also added two beehives with the assistance of local beekeeper Peter Castaldo and Barry Cooper from the Victorian Apiarist Association. I’m lucky enough to have a gate that provides access to the community garden from my own garden, so it’s like having a second backyard. Kent and I built a brick wicking bed for our community plot — my first, and probably last, attempt at bricklaying. Thankfully, Kent had had some previous bricklaying experience, which saved the day. This project provided other opportunities. We decided to decorate the wicking bed walls with mosaics and, even though this
Angela Kristens | GARDENING FOLK
Angela’s top tips • When planting seedlings, use recycled, small, clear water bottles (tops and bottoms cut off ) to keep the seedlings protected. This also keeps the thick layer of mulch from covering the seedlings when the birds dig around. • When considering a wicking bed or aquaponics system, do your research. Don’t forget to talk to different people who’ve installed one of these systems and find the one you feel you can manage and that suits your garden area. • Always plant lots of flowers. Your vegies look great planted in among them and they also attract more insects — win-win. • Keep a diary with a sketch of your garden and what you’ve planted each year, one for spring/summer and one for autumn/winter. This will assist with following a crop-rotation system.
proposition was very labour intensive, it was a great initiative. Then, along came NEAMI, a national mental health organisation that provides rehabilitation and support to people with mental illness who require assistance with skill development and social contact. Working with the Livingstone Community Centre, NEAMI has begun a mosaic project for the garden bed and we can’t wait to see what beautiful creations they will come up with. Other community groups have also partnered with the garden. The Ivanhoe Scouts have made three amazing scarecrows, some garden signs and insect boxes, while the local library plans to hold its “story time” sessions there this summer. Our garden committee meets for a working bee on a monthly basis and community workshops are held throughout the year for locals to learn about pruning, propagation, permaculture, beekeeping, wicking beds and a wide range of other gardening practices. Last month, the community garden held its first open day, a wonderful event with children’s activities, plant sales, a barbecue, a “wok-off ” and a brilliant beekeeping presentation. So, from my backyard stems a community organic edible garden that inspires other gardeners to become true organic gardening folk.
To contact the Ivanhoe Community Garden, visit its Facebook page, web page at ivanhoecommunitygarden. wordpress.com or send an email to ivanhoe.foodgarden@gmail.com
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GARDENING FOLK | Sophia Konstantyniuk
Sophia’s Choice This productive garden was created by a garden designer, with a passion for organic edibles, for a client wanting an abundant vegie patch Words: Natalie Raad Photos: Patrick Redmond hat began as a small vegie patch is, today, the ultimate food-garden sanctuary. Located in Armadale, Victoria, the garden is not only pleasing to look at, with its array of colours and textures, but is edible too.
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Sophia Konstantyniuk wanted to create an abundant vegie garden, so she called on garden designer Chris Williams to transform her blank canvas of Kikuyu lawn, a few trees, a Hills Hoist and a crumbling incinerator into an oasis of colour and flavour. Calling a designer is sometimes a good idea to get you started on a gardening odyssey because they can offer
new ideas for plants and design. Chris decided to create an edible landscape using organic methods and to make the garden both productive and beautiful. And he had the perfect opportunity to let his flair shine as Sophia’s yard was sheltered, bathed in plenty of light and had a desirable east-facing aspect — ideal for growing edible plants.
Sophia Konstantyniuk
| GARDENING FOLK
As with many edible landscapes, the garden looks best in the growing season and, in summer, can provide more than 70 per cent of Sophia’s vegetable and herb needs. Colour adds interest near the small pond garden
Chillies are a favourite year-round
Productive, organic and alive — no need or room for lawn here
Photos by Stami & Neville Donovan
Goodbye grass The first step was to remove the lawn by digging it out and applying a mulch of newspaper and cardboard overlaid with thick layers of pea straw and lucerne hay. In the first year, only half the lawn was converted but gradually, over time, the garden spread across the entire backyard through more mulching and digging. “Ninety-five per cent of all the plants in the garden are edible in some way,” says Chris. “Many of the plants, however, are unusual for Melbourne food gardens.” Good Organic Gardening | 33
GARDENING FOLK | Sophia Konstantyniuk Tomatoes left to ripen on the vine
its handy to keep the propagating area neat
Staple herbs such as parsley, garlic chives and basil are grown as close to the house as possible for easy access. These include species such as Queensland arrowroot (Canna edulis), taro (Colocasia esculenta), oca (Oxalis tuberosa), Japanese leaf vegetables such as shungiku (Chrysanthemum coronarium) and herbs such as sweet leaf (Stevia rebaudiana). As with many edible landscapes, the garden looks best in the growing season and, in summer, can provide more than 70 per cent of Sophia’s vegetable and herb needs. “Many tropical perennial species, such as taro, have been used to give the garden a lush feel,” explains Chris.
Out the front The front garden has two main beds: a vegetable and herb bed along the front fence and a succulent garden by the house. Established trees and shrubs in this area include a large Sasanqua Camellia and a Himalayan Dogwood (Cornus capitata). The succulent garden includes agaves, echeverias and aeoniums. The vegetable bed has Mediterranean herbs, carrots, asparagus and day lilies with edible flower buds.
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“The back garden is the main productive area,” Chris says. It contains a mix of seasonal annual crops such as tomatoes, beetroot and celery as well as perennial species: “seven year” beans, Queensland arrowroot, taro and cape gooseberry. “The perennial plants are used to give the garden structure and to lessen the workload of seeding and planting,” explains Chris. “Many of the perennial plants die back during winter but reshoot vigorously in spring.” Staple herbs such as parsley, garlic, chives and basil are grown as close to the house as possible for easy access. On the concrete patio are pots of sacred lotus (Nelumbo nucifera), Asian water spinach and water lettuce.
Edible pathway Where the path leads down to the shed and garage, rainbow chard and silverbeet have been planted with Japanese herbs and leaf vegetables such as mizuna and shungiku. To soften the walkway, lemongrass, with its long, wavy, green arms, has been included. The main vegetable garden on the right
of the path contains the “three sisters”: — corn, zucchini and beans that grow up the support of a small tepee. In the seating area on the north side of the garden, young grapevines have been planted to grow over the small arch. And, in front of this, there’s a patch of Vietnamese mint, taro and Asian water spinach. Chris has also included in the design a small water garden that’s created out of a plastic children’s sandpit and a chook pen. “Growing food requires more planning and physical effort than for a purely ornamental garden, but it is well worth the effort,” says Chris. “All the activities in the garden, from composting food scraps and feeding the chooks to sowing seeds, harvesting and cooking vegetables are both fun and therapeutic.” For Sophia, having food at hand means fewer trips to the supermarket. But, best of all, the garden provides organic food for family and friends and gives Sophia the perfect opportunity to get to know her neighbours through the exchanging of vegetables and the sharing of meals.
Sophia Konstantyniuk
| GARDENING FOLK Vegies are planted in the front garden too
Best tips
Handsome beans meander up a tepee
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1. Grow herbs that you use a lot as close to your house as possible. 2. Who needs lawn? Convert grass to vegie gardens easily with a mulch of newspaper and cardboard overlayed with thick layers of straw or hay. 3. Don’t be afraid to grow edibles in the front garden — they look fantastic and give you more productive space. 4. Try growing edibles that are “outside” your climatic zone. If they thrive, that’s great; if not, at least you tried. 5. If you grow more than you can eat, share some with your neighbours. You’ll get to know them better and you might inspire them.
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TIME TO PLANT | Rosemary Health benefits: Rosemary has a reputation for strengthening the memory and has long been associated with remembrance and friendship. Rosemary tea can be used to aid digestion, ease headaches and relieve cold symptoms and an ointment made from the oil can be used to treat sores, bruises and eczema. Growing conditions: Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean, so it grows best in full sun and well-drained soils but will cope with some shade. It’s a tough herb that tolerates dry and coastal conditions, so it’s the perfect choice for pots and seaside gardens. Planting tip: Sow rosemary seed from spring or buy seedlings, which are generally available year round. Spreading forms of rosemary can be divided in spring or autumn. You can also grow rosemary easily from cuttings taken in spring to autumn. Pests and diseases: Rosemary can develop root rot if overwatered when grown in tubs. The first indication of this is browning of the leaf tips. Try growing it in terracotta or clay pots as they allow better drainage.
Rosmarinus officinalis Long associated with remembrance and said to be good for memory, rosemary is a culinary champion Words by Melissa King
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n my book, rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is the king of herbs: fragrant, tasty and highly decorative in the garden. It is a beautifully scented evergreen plant that grows from 0.5 to 1.5m tall (depending on the variety) with needle like leaves that release a lingering fragrance when you crush them with your fingers or brush against them.
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It also displays clusters of attractive blue, purple, pink or white flowers through winter and spring. Rosemary makes a beautiful hedge around the kitchen garden or flower border, or you can make a feature of it in a terracotta pot on a sunny balcony. Prostrate forms of rosemary also make lovely scented ground covers. There are several named varieties worth
Harvest tip: Pick leaves regularly to keep plants nice and bushy and give plants a light trim after flowering.
growing for their attractive form, flowers and flavour. ‘Mozart’ is one of the best with intense blue flowers — deeper in colour than any other type of rosemary around. Grow it as a loose hedge or clip into formal topiary shapes. In the kitchen, it’s the perfect complement to chicken, lamb and potatoes. ‘Irene’ is a superb, low-growing, mounding form of rosemary with trailing stems up to 1.75m so it’s an ideal choice for cascading down embankments and walls. In mid-winter it’s smothered in pretty blue-violet flowers and the fragrant leaves can be picked and used fresh in savoury and sweet dishes year-round.
Photos by Diane Norris
Rosemary
Storing: You can take sprigs of rosemary virtually any time of the year to air-dry in a well-ventilated spot. When completely dry, strip whole leaves from the stem and they can be stored as a dry herb in glass jars with lids. The best time to take stems is before flowering starts.
Thyme | TIME TO PLANT
Thyme Thymus vulgaris A herbal all-rounder, thyme is an essential in any kitchen garden — in fact, why not a few varieties? Words by Melissa King
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hyme is one of those invaluable herbs that have a place in the garden, kitchen and medicine chest – so versatile is its appeal. In the garden, it’s a decorative ground cover with pretty clusters of flowers that attract bees and other friendly pollinators. In the kitchen, it’s the perfect partner to lamb, chicken and beetroot. And medicinally, it has been used for centuries to reduce the severity of colds, treat skin infections and as a potent antiseptic. Common Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) is the type most people will be familiar with, grown for its strongly aromatic grey-green foliage and flowers that bloom in shades of white, pink or purple. Then there’s Lemon Thyme (Thymus citriodorus) with citrus-scented leaves that make a great accompaniment to lamb cutlets – Variegated Thyme (Thymus x citriodorus ‘Variegata’) with decorative two-toned foliage – Turkey Thyme, which is the perfect choice for flavouring poultry dishes – and Creeping Thyme, a mat-forming perennial that carpets the ground. And that’s just to name a few!
Thyme is native to areas of the Mediterranean, so it’s tough and easy to grow. Grow it in a pot on a sunny balcony or as a decorative ground cover, or combine it
with other perennials in the flower border. Creeping Thyme even makes a lovely scented lawn alternative or is great between stepping stones or garden pavers.
Health benefits: Thyme has one of the highest antioxidant levels of all herbs. It is one of the richest sources of potassium, iron, calcium, manganese, magnesium and selenium and is high in essential vitamins such as A, C and B6 – so it’s no wonder it has been used for centuries to help prevent disease and promote good health. Thyme also has strong antiseptic and ant-fungal properties. A balm made from the leaves can be effective in helping to heal cuts and burns and to treat skin conditions and acne. Thyme tea is commonly used to help combat colds and types of flu.
be divided during spring or autumn. Potted plants are generally available year-round.
Growing conditions: Plant it in a warm, sunny spot with well-drained soil.
Storage: All of the thyme varieties are low in moisture and therefore are very easily air-dried. Place in direct sunlight then, when dried out, store in a glass jar with a lid to retain its flavour.
Planting: Sow seeds or take cuttings in spring through to autumn. Plants can also
Pests and diseases: Thyme, when grown in full sun, is generally free from any problems. It is, however, great in the garden; substances leached from its leaves hinder surrounding plant growth, so it’s useful to reduce competition from weed or grass growth. But if you do see any weeds popping up through the carpeting types of thyme, gently pull them out. Harvest: Pick the leaves regularly to keep plants bushy and compact.
Good Organic Gardening | 37
GARDEN SOLUTIONS | Pest patrol Red-shouldered leaf beetles gather in thousands and can quickly skeletonise leaves
Red-shouldered leaf beetle Monolepta australis
Words by Densey Clyne & Diane Norris
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any gardeners and orchardists living in the northern and eastern states of Australia will have woeful tales to tell of infestations by a small beetle that leaves their crops, orchard trees and ornamentals totally skeletonised. The culprit is Monolepta australis, commonly called the red-shouldered leaf beetle, a member of the mainly leaf-eating Chrysomelidae family. Although these beetles occur only sporadically, they arrive in their millions, often sneakily by night, and work so quickly it’s sometimes too late to do more than simply mop up after the event.
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However, knowing the characteristics and life history of any pest species can be the essential first stage in dealing with it.
Description and behaviour The eggs and larvae of the red-shouldered leaf beetle aren’t usually seen, so for most purposes it is only the adult winged form we need to recognise. For a start, the beetle is very small — only 6mm long — but readily distinguished from most other small leaf-eating (phytophagous) beetles by its colour pattern. Basically a deep yellow, it’s clearly
patterned with a red band (or reddish patches) over the shoulder of the wing covers (elytra) and a pair of red spots twothirds of the way along the body. This pest is also unique in the plaguelike manner and swiftness of its attack and in the unusually large number of potential host plants it can decimate. If disturbed, the beetles will fly off, fall to the ground or settle in their dozens on any unwary observer.
Life cycle The female red-shouldered leaf beetle lays her tiny yellowish eggs on the surface of the soil under the food plant. The newly
Photos by Diane Norris
The sworn enemy of gardeners and orchardists, the red-shouldered leaf beetle can do a lot of damage in just hours
Pest patrol | GARDEN SOLUTIONS hatched larvae, white with a hard brown plate at each end, burrow down just a few centimetres to feed on the roots of whatever is available, including grasses and weeds. After a few months, the larvae, now about 12mm long, pupate while still underground. The adults will often emerge and swarm after a rainy period and there may be several generations in one year.
The damage The red-shouldered leaf beetle feeds on a wide range of crops, orchard trees and garden ornamentals, including legumes, soybeans, mung beans, sugarcane, avocado, corn, lychee, macadamia, mango, strawberry, cucurbits, potatoes, tomatoes, edible figs and eucalypts. The damage first occurs on the upper surface of the leaf but soon only the tough leaf veins remain. The leaves of entire shrubs and trees can be skeletonised and garden ornamentals, such as roses and crepe myrtles, are often attacked at peak flowering times.
Safe control Controlling millions of voracious beetles is not an easy task. Red-shouldered leaf
beetles are hard-bodied (unlike other Leafsuch deathasdue to pests aphids, thrips and mites), so bacterial canker soap sprays won’t work. A strong jet of water over infiltrated leaves will dislodge the beetles temporarily but they quickly swarm back to their leafy food source. Also, there are no known predators that are effective against high infestations. The only method, if you cannot tolerate damaged foliage, is pyrethrum. Natural pyrethrum comes from flowers of the pyrethrum plant and you can buy organic pyrethrum – but it can be hard to find and expensive. The synthetic equivalent is popular but we do not recommend it. Pyrethrum is a knock-down pesticide that kills an insect on contact. It breaks down very quickly, has relatively low toxicity and is biodegradable. But, if used, it should be spot-sprayed with a fine jet — never blanket spray. This would be effective for one or 10 beetles on a small plant but, since red-shouldered leaf beetles arrive in their thousands, this option might be pointless. Another suggestion is to try using a Bacillus thuringiensis or BT treatment. This naturally occurring bacterium, normally for caterpillar control, is marketed as Dipel and available at most garden centres. ■
A fig tree under attack
Handsome but destructive
Good Organic Gardening | 39
GARDEN SOLUTIONS | Pest patrol
The pear (or cherry) slug is not a slug – it’s the larval stage of a species of sawfly
Pear or cherry slug Caliroa cerasi The pear (or cherry) slug is a minor pest but, left alone, it can become a major threat to your fruit trees Life cycle
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The life cycle of the pear or cherry slug begins with the adult female laying her eggs on the upper leaf surfaces of a food plant. The eggs hatch as larvae that feed and grow, moulting several times. When fully grown, each larva drops to the ground and burrows into the soil. There, it moults for the last time and becomes a pupa. After a period of development underground, a winged adult sawfly emerges from its pupal shell, pushes its way to the surface and flies away to seek out a host plant on which to lay eggs. The female is parthenogenetic: that is,
he introduced cherry slug or pear slug is not a slug but the larval stage of the insect Caliroa cerasi, a species of sawfly originating in the Northern Hemisphere. In spite of its name, the sawfly isn’t a fly either – it’s related to bees and wasps but without the sting. Caliroa cerasi belongs to the largest family of sawflies, the Tenthredinidae, which includes more than 6000 species worldwide. Its larva, the pear (cherry) slug, is a minor pest of orchard and garden fruit trees such as cherry, pear, plum, quince and some others.
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she can produce eggs without a male. In fact, males are seldom seen. There are two generations a year. The first larvae appear on trees in early summer and quickly become adults in December and January. The second generation is often more numerous and widespread, so they are more of a pest.
Description The eggs of the cherry slug are laid through a slit the female makes in the upper skin of a leaf with her saw-like egg layer — hence the name sawfly. The newly hatched larva appears white with a yellowish-brown head but, almost
Photos courtesy of Yates
By Densey Clyne & Diane Norris
Pest patrol | GARDEN SOLUTIONS
immediately after hatching, it secretes a slimy olive-green coating that covers its body. This gives the larva a slug-like appearance and also makes it unpalatable to predators. The head end is wider than the rest of the body and a fully mature larva is about 1.5cm long. This stage is what we call the pear or cherry slug and is the pest problem that needs to be dealt with. The adult sawfly C. cerasi is small — about 0.5cm long — and glossy with black wings.
The damage Cherry or pear slugs feed on the leaves of cherry, pear plum and quince trees. Their presence is first announced by the scorched or curled appearance of the leaves. Finally, they skeletonise the leaves, removing all tissue except the network of leaf veins. A mass infestation may cause weakening of the tree and reduction of fruit size. Sometimes young trees can be killed by these gluttonous marauders.
Organic control Inspect foliage in spring to see if there are slugs on the leaves. There are several ways you can safely control these pests. • If you have chickens, let them roam around your fruit trees and they will help themselves to these slimy pests. • Wood ash is a safe treatment. Save the ash from your fire (or acquire some from someone with a slow-combustion stove) and throw it over your tree, making sure you stand upwind. The ash will dry up the slugs and kill them. • Blast them off the tree with a water jet from a high-pressure hose. You will need to band the tree with a horticultural glue or beeswax to stop the creatures climbing back up. • Use Bacillus thuringiensis (BT), a bacterium commonly used as a biological pesticide and an acceptable control in the organic garden. It is available at garden centres. You can mix it up and spray it on your tree. A slimy olive-green coating gives the larva a slug-like appearance
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Good Organic Gardening | 41
THE UNDERGROUND| No-dig gardens
Raising a crop Creating a no-dig or raised garden saves water, the soil and your back
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Why no digging? • Digging damages the soil. Soil isn’t just dirt: it’s a complex natural web of soil
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particles, minerals, air, organic matter and microorganisms such as worms, fungi and bacteria. Left to their own devices, all these elements reach a state of balance suited to the climate and surroundings. They all work together to cycle nutrients, assist plant growth and prevent diseases and soil degradation. When you sink your shovel into soil, you disturb its delicate balance. • Digging brings poor-quality subsoil to the surface, displacing topsoil. This is particularly true in Australia where our soils tend to be old, with low levels of organic matter and a usually thin layer of topsoil. Instead of digging in organic matter, it’s far better to lay it on the top and leave the worms to dig it in while they wriggle through the soil. That way, the organic matter can be better broken down by microorganisms in a more oxygen-rich environment. • Digging significantly compacts soil. Digging has traditionally been thought of as a way of aerating soil, but it really does the opposite. By cutting off the top layer of soil, you make a “container”, which you then fill with fluffed-up soil. So, while the top bit might be aerated, the effect is quite shallow and results in a hard pan a shovel-depth below ground. This can cause drainage problems in clay soils and water stress in dry conditions by preventing roots travelling deeper in search
of water and nutrients. If you don’t disturb the soil, worms, microorganisms and plant roots will make air passages and cycle nutrients from deeper soil up to the top layers. • Digging doesn’t get rid of weeds. Really persistent weeds, such as onion weed and nut grass, rely on digging to spread their bulbs and rhizomes around. Unless you remove large amounts of soil, it’s almost impossible to remove every tiny bulb or little piece of root. Smothering is the only way to stop these weeds in their tracks, as it stops the plants from photosynthesising. This asphyxiation slowly starves and weakens the plant and prevents it reproducing. Other weeds with long tap roots, such as dock and sorrel, are almost impossible to dig out. Smothering is the best technique for their removal too. Weeds that spread by seeds love digging — you’re planting their seeds for them! And digging can also bring thousands of previously dormant seeds up from below ground, giving perfect conditions for germination. Blanketing with mulch stops weed seeds germinating. • And, finally, digging is hard work. Gardening should be pleasurable, not exhausting. No-dig gardening’s focus is on building up instead of digging down and is much quicker and easier than traditional digging techniques.
Photos by Diane Norris
Words by Danielle Wheeler ermaculture is guided by three ethics: care for the Earth, care for people and fair sharing of resources. Designers and practitioners aim to work with nature, which saves time, money, energy and natural resources such as water. It’s also all about reducing work. Don’t dig! Digging is hard physical work and can damage the soil. Gardening above ground level encompasses a host of different techniques – no-dig gardening, lasagne layering, raised garden beds, mounded beds and deep, portable garden containers. Each has the same principle: you do not dig into the soil – you create a garden space by raising the soil level. It’s easy, practical and sustainable. No-dig gardening involves building up a garden bed on top of the existing soil, lawn or concrete or even building a garden bed off the ground. You can buy movable containers or get DIY kits that you can easily assemble to have a raised garden bed. Many gardening pioneers within the organic gardening movement have promoted no-dig gardening, including Masanobu Fukuoka, Australian Esther Dean and Americans Ruth Stout and Patricia Lanza. No-dig gardening is also strong among permaculture practitioners.
No-dig gardens | THE UNDERGROUND
Building a raised garden bed There are slight variations to the method of building no-dig raised gardens. Sydneybased no-dig pioneer Esther Dean perfected a method she used extensively for building raised beds for disabled and
elderly gardeners using recycled materials. She has even built gardens on concrete driveways and up high on old bed bases to allow access for people in wheelchairs. Permaculturists use a technique called “sheet mulching”, which has been used to grow food all over the world. American
gardener Patricia Lanza coined the term “lasagne gardening” to describe the multi-layered approach she developed for increasing soil fertility and food production without tilling. While some minor differences exist, the main process remains the same:
Build the raised garden bed of bricks, blocks, stone or timber — preferably recycled materials. We used second-hand railway sleepers.
Slash or mow long grass and weeds (you can do this first), leaving the clippings in place. These clippings will add organic matter as they break down.
Apply a generous amount of lime and blood and bone. The blood and bone will accelerate the breakdown of weeds and grass. The lime promotes the composting of organic matter.
Soak paper, cardboard or old cotton clothing (jeans are great!) in water – then lay them over the whole area in overlapping layers. If you’re building the garden over hardy weeds or grass, such as kikuyu or couch, you’ll need paper up to 15 sheets thick.
Throw any untidy seed-free organic waste on the garden bed. This could be kitchen scraps, unsuccessful compost, weeds that haven’t flowered yet or old grass clippings.
Add a layer of straw or lucerne hay. Split it into biscuits about 15cm thick off the bale.
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Good Organic Gardening | 43
THE UNDERGROUND | No-dig gardens
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Thoroughly water the layers now before adding the next layers.
Add 10–15cm of rotted manure, compost or mushroom compost. This aids decomposition and provides plant nutrients. Water well.
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Add a 10cm layer of clean, weedfree mulch such as straw, sugarcane, rice hulls or sunflower husks.
Pull back the mulch to plant large seeds and seedlings into pockets of compost or organic potting mix. Water well.
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If you’re building raised garden beds higher than one level, repeat the layering process a couple of times as per our instructions.
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Going up Raised beds are another no-dig gardening method and can be built at varying heights to suit your needs. They have many benefits: • Increased drainage. If your soil is heavy clay or you’re at the bottom of a hill and find your plants struggling to cope with sour soil and too much water, raised beds can create good drainage and get plant roots up above sodden soil. How high you go really depends on how wet your position is. Tropical gardeners traditionally built mounds of soil. For most gardens, two bricks or a couple of untreated hardwood railway sleepers is usually high enough. • Improved access. Older gardeners and people with back problems or reduced movement find raised beds much easier to work in. If you work sitting in a chair or wheelchair, build the garden to the height that is most comfortable for you. If you’re planning the garden for someone else, take a chair out with you and sit in it when you determine the bed’s height. Make sure you can reach all areas of the bed, so don’t make the garden too wide. Modular garden beds are available from many hardware and gardening outlets or you can have beds made from old water tanks
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or corrugated iron. Old bathtubs make great containers for no-dig layers but you will need to add extra drainage holes as the plug hole usually isn’t big enough. • Built-in seating. Many gardeners like to sit while working and kids love to climb. If you build a raised bed within a thick wall of brick, timber or mud brick, you can sit on the side of the bed while you work. This can reduce fatigue, increase your use of the garden space (by giving you a nice place for a cuppa) and keep your trousers clean. It also keeps enthusiastic dogs off the garden.
Material matters A waist-high garden can seem like a big “resource guzzler”. Don’t be tempted to fill the space with next door’s rubbish. If you have a big area to fill, try the ancient German technique of Hügelkultur (“mound culture”). This method uses woody waste, such as large prunings and branches, which slowly rots down to form carbon- and nutrient-rich soil. It’s a great way to dispose of prunings and save on materials at the same time. Build up layers of branches and logs until you are within about 60cm of the top. Cover with a layer of hay (or leaves) and water in to settle the hay into spaces — then build
up a couple of layers of sheet mulching minus the newspaper layer. Raised gardens are extremely waterefficient because the organic matter holds water well and keeps moisture available to the roots of the plants. Because your garden is so well mulched, you use less water than on a garden with bare soil. Over time, the water-holding capacity of your garden will increase, so you’ll need to water less.
Keeping it going A sheet-mulched garden will settle over time as the organic matter decomposes into rich soil that has fantastic water-holding capacity, teeming with soil life. In a raised bed, you will need to top up the level as the garden sinks but you’ll be adding mulch regularly, anyway, to prevent weeds and water loss. Hügelkultur beds do drop significantly in height as the wood material decomposes but this can be easily adjusted as part of your normal feeding and mulching routine. Danielle Wheeler is a permaculture designer and scientist who teaches permaculture courses in western Sydney through Humble Designs Permaculture.
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GARDENING TIPS | 10 Top Tips
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Top Tips Great ideas from successful gardeners Words by Rosemary & Arthur Lathouris
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Pep up your lemon cake
A lemon cake can be given some zing by the addition of lemon balm and/or lemon thyme. To extract flavour - add one to two tablespoons of finely chopped herb to hot water or milk and allow to steep until cool. Mix the liquid plus herbs into the cake mixture — no need to strain off the herbal matter.
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Bottling seedlings
Clear plastic bottles can make effective cloches to protect seedlings from snails during their first night or two. Cut the base out of the bottle, press the bottle into the soil around your tender plant and remove the cap. The open top of the bottle allows hot air to be released and stops your plant overheating. A bamboo stake helps
hold the bottle in place, especially in windy weather. This little cocoon also keeps birds away for a few days until the little seedling establishes itself and can withstand normal garden conditions.
Thinning out
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Thinning a fruit tree with an abundance of fruit may seem wasteful but the reward of larger, more flavourful fruit is worth it. Twist off any misshapen or damaged fruit first, leaving just two or three fruit to a bunch depending on the stem length of the fruit. Shorter-stemmed fruit may eventually push off neighbouring fruit as they compete for space. All the thinned fruit can go into the compost — or to hens, if you have a coop. This is probably an easier task than raking up spoiled fruit that falls from the tree later on in the season.
Photos by Diane Norris
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10 Top Tips | GARDENING TIPS
Prune for fruiting
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Correct pruning of fruit trees encourages fruiting. Generally, young trees are pruned to an outward-facing bud to encourage the plant to grow wider. Later on, though, the pruning aims to restrict growth and aid flowering and fruiting. An excellent video on pruning can be found at Gardening Online with Margaret Sirl (abc.net.au/local/stories/2010/08/18/2986131).
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Caring for blackberries
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Thornless blackberries are a late-summer treat as they fruit in profusion. If a scorcher of a day is expected, stop your berries being burned by throwing shade cloth over them. If you’ve already erected bird-proof netting, simply spread the shadecloth over the netting. The addition of potash in spring improves the flavour and size of fruit. Make sure you keep the bushes moist in hot weather and use an organic seaweed solution on the foliage several times during the growing season.
Don’t trash that ash
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Wood ash from your fireplace is best stored in a dry place and used on your garden throughout the year. Though strongly alkaline, it’s full of minerals, lime and potash and can be usefully added as a dusting all year-round when making compost. However, keep wood ash away from potatoes and plants such as azaleas.
Plant removal
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If you’re moving house, try to get pieces of your favourite plants potted up well before the move. This allows them to root into the soil in the pot and be stable during the lifting and carrying they will have to endure. Allow your pots to dry out for a day or two before the removal begins so they are dry to pick up and lighter to carry. Water well once settled into their new garden.
Too much mulch
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Mulch is wonderful for keeping soil moist and in good condition for plants to grow well. But too much mulch, like too much of anything, is not a good idea — light rain may not penetrate your garden bed and the mulch can harbour pests such as slugs and snails. Mulch should be no thicker than 65– 75mm. Aged or composted mulch is best.
Watch the wilt
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Temporary wilting on hot summer days doesn’t need to be solved with the hose. Plants with big leaves, such as pumpkins, can wilt during the heat of the day and regain their structure in the evening. Check if the soil is moist before watering and consider shading the plants if heatwave conditions will be around for a few days.
Work together
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Invite a friend over for a gardening morning. Prepare a nice morning tea or lunch and enjoy working together as you chat. You’ll get so much more done as a team and next time it will be your friend’s turn to have the satisfaction of achieving something worthwhile in her/his garden when they invite you over.
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www.wobble-tee.com.au Good Organic Gardening | 47
WEEKEND GARDENING | Summer shelter Recycled and beautiful — structures used for crop protection can be works of art in the garden
So how can we keep those edibles going and protect them from our sizzling summer sun?
The science When we look outside in the heat of the day and see our edible crops wilting under the direct assault of the sun, it can be distressing. Come the late afternoon, these plants soon spring up, showing little sign of the earlier distress. Or do they? Don’t be fooled; continual upset due to water stress, heat trauma and wind damage will eventually affect production and will also increase disease and pest attack — and even cause death. Transpiration, in very basic terms, is the process whereby plants lose moisture from the pores (stomata) within their leaves, flowers and stems. This is important because it creates the continual draw-up of moisture and nutrients from the roots. When you see your plants droop in the midday heat but perk up again in the afternoon, it’s because they are losing more moisture than they can replace in the heat of the day, especially if the soil has dried out. But in the cool of the afternoon this moisture loss has diminished.
Solve it, make it
Summer shade for edibles Helping your plants keep their cool when it’s hot Words Claire Bickle hen it comes to growing edibles, summertime can be a real challenge — the temperatures we experience remind us why it’s called a sunburnt country. Whether you’re in Hobart or Darwin, success in the vegie patch this time of year means careful planning.
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Bitter vegies, hydrophobic soils, sunscorched produce, split fruit, fruit fly and grasshopper damage: does this sound like your summer vegetable gardening experience? Despair no more. With sensible planning and a few hours of preparation, you can be on the road to successful summer harvesting; to healthy plants and good produce.
Here are some ideas for protecting your plants: Movable shade cloth igloos: Super simple. All you need is some poly pipe, star pickets, zip-ties and shade cloth. You can make them as long and as tall as you like. Even some lengths of bamboo or light, untreated hardwood timber will work; you just have to tie the pieces together and, perhaps, tent-peg the frame down. Hanging baskets: On a smaller scale, old wire hanging basket frames covered in shade cloth can be popped over individual patches of seedlings. These will also protect plants from insect attack. Shade sails: Don’t have much time? Just sling a piece of shade cloth loosely over your patch and peg down with bricks. If you want to get more elaborate, perhaps set up shade sails, or permanent wooden structures (pergolas, archways, larger frames etc), over which shade cloth can be draped or removed as needed. Even a large deck umbrella can be of help. Design for the microclimate: Know your aspect — which direction do the prevailing winds come from? This can have a bearing on which edibles will succeed and which will not. Plant your crops with this in mind. Consider the use of taller-growing species to create shelter from prevailing hot winds and the heat of the sun. Choices may include
Summer shelter |
WEEKEND GARDENING
Did someone say irrigation? Drippers are the best method for efficient and effective delivery of water to plants as they are less prone to evaporation than spraying types. Keep your systems free from ants with a regular flush-out and do a general check of the system every month or so.
A simple frame is all you need to throw shade cloth over on a hot day
Photos by Angela Kristens & 123RF
Other top tips
sweet corn, sunflowers, cosmos, rosellas and amaranth. Even bamboo tepees can be used for this purpose with climbing vegetables for coverage, such as snake beans and cucumbers. Plant some flowering species and herbs among your edibles too, as they will act as living mulch – attracting pollinators and beneficial insects as well as being a possible shade source, depending on the height of the species chosen. A branch or two: A simple yet effective way to protect newly planted seedlings or soft-leafed vegies is to take a branch or two (I like eucalyptus) and stick them in the ground around your seedlings or plants — the leaves will give shade. Even if the leaves dry out, they will still provide protection and relief for your edibles. Shade house: When germination of seedlings is the task at hand, a purposebuilt shade house is optimal for protection as the plants can become established before being planted out. Shade houses come in all shapes, sizes and prices and can even be erected using second-hand materials and a bit of labour. Selection of type and cultivar: Sometimes, growing certain edibles at the wrong time of year will invite failure. Even if you’ve chosen the right edible for the season, certain select cultivars and varieties will do better in specific areas. For instance, with tropical tomatoes, choose varieties that are region-specific or locally proven to do well. It’s a good idea to join your local seedsaving club. Instead of pushing on with spinach, brassicas and lettuce, why not
choose more subtropical-friendly varieties such as Malabar spinach (Basella alba), rocket, chicory, kangkong, malu khia (Egyptian spinach), amaranth, perennial coriander – the list goes on. Research subtropical greens, learn how to grow them and use them as substitutes in everyday cooking. Pot it, move it: Growing your edibles in pots or containers means you can change their location in a jiffy. Super-hot day forecast? No worries — I’m moving my blueberries to the shade under the verandah. Pots also need mulching throughout the summer months to prevent the mix from drying out quickly. Pots will dry out much faster than garden beds, so be sure to monitor your containers daily and water if necessary.
• Liquid seaweed, applied to the root zone and used as a foliar spray strengthens plants against weather extremes and makes them less susceptible to disease and insect attack. • Has your soil already become so dry that when you water it just runs off ? Apply the re-wetting agent Eco-hydrate mixed with seaweed. • Mulch, mulch and more mulch! Blanketing with lucerne, sugarcane, pea straw, bark, leaf litter and even pebbles will prevent moisture loss as well as protect your soil from temperature extremes, weed infestations and erosion. • It’s in the soil, so go back to basics. Good soil structure with high levels of organic matter in the form of compost and manure will help your garden beds retain moisture more effectively and hence relieve your plants of water stress. Summertime in the garden is rewarding and can also be relaxing. The hours near sunrise and in the shadows of late afternoon are the perfect times to monitor and reward your edibles — and yourself — after a hot day. Claire Bickle is a Brisbane-based horticulturist, teacher, speaker, writer and organic practitioner.
Cloches, such as this one, can be easily covered during the heat of the day
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WEEKEND GARDENING | Fruit-fly lure
Fruit-fly trap ruit fly is a common and destructive pest that can prevent home gardeners from enjoying the fruits of their labour. It lays its eggs in a wide variety of maturing or ripe fruits including stone fruit, citrus and tomato. Fruit flies can also lay eggs in some vegetables – such as capsicums and beans. The tiny, creamy-white maggots hatch from the eggs and burrow through the fruit or vegetable eating as they go. Different from and smaller than ordinary house flies, fruit flies generally cannot go very far unless they hitch a ride in your fruit or vegetables when you’re travelling. Organic control can be effective in both monitoring and killing fruit flies. You can monitor your crops with a simple fly trap and dispose of infested fruit safely by the “bag and bin” method. However, it’s really important you also advise the Department of Primary Industries in your local state or territory to assist in the monitoring of outbreaks.
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How to make a female fruit-fly lure This recipe is formulated specifically to attract the female fruit fly. Once in the lure, it will drown, preventing eggs from being laid and future adults being born. John Priestley, a biodynamic citrus orchardist, has a great fruit-fly mixture. He has kindly allowed us to share his method with you. Take a 2L plastic bottle (John uses recycled 2L milk containers) and put two holes, each about the diameter of a pencil, in the side about one-third from the top, using a heated skewer. Leave the edges of the holes smooth and rolled inwards.
The recipes For a small area (home orchard) 2L water 1 cup sugar (raw or white) 1 tsp vanilla essence Fruit fly 2 tbsp cloudy ammonia This is enough for eight bottles (you’re not filling them to the brim), so you can either divide the ingredients by eight or pour the mixture evenly into eight 2L bottle traps. Put the screw lid back on the bottle and hang it by the handle from a branch of the fruit tree, on a wire hook, near the lower limbs. Place a few of these on trees around the perimeter of your block or garden space. If you have only a few trees, use one bottle on each tree. Check the fluid and replace as necessary during the season. For acreage gardens or orchards 40mL vanilla 10 cups sugar 400mL cloudy ammonia in 20L water Mix ingredients well. This is enough for 100 bottles. Put one bottle on every sixth tree on alternate rows. Put the bottle baits out at the end of August and collect and wash out bottles – then refill and replace during November and the end of February. Keep them out until the end of harvest.
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True brew A simple guide to making your own beer
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Photo by iStock
THE SHED | Organic home brewing
Organic home brewing | THE SHED
Your choices of beer styles are endless. Most brew shop owners should be able to formulate a recipe for any type of beer.
By Colin Penrose ome brew! Everybody knows someone who brews their own beer. Many people have tried home brew — though some may never try it again. When brewing your own beer at home, there is a right way and a wrong way. Let me show you the right way and you can be sure to make great beer from your very first attempt. First and foremost, you need quality products, available from all good homebrew stores. Avoid the supermarkets as they have zero experience and can’t help you if there’s a problem with your brew. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Sanitise all your equipment with one of the many home-brewing sanitisers. Do not use bleach. The next most important thing to getting a consistent result is temperature. I recommend 23°C for most brews. As most brewing kits make 23 litres, it’s an easy number to remember. A degree either side doesn’t matter. When adding the kit and the kilo of brewing sugars (do not use normal white sugar) you will also need to add water, up to 23L. Always check the temperature at 20L and adjust accordingly. Remember, tap water is warmer in summer than in winter. It’s a good idea to keep a two-litre PET bottle of cold water in the fridge for times when you need a fast cool-down. Ice is no good as it takes ages to work. At 23 litres and 23°C, pitch your yeast into the fermenter and then airlock. Ferment at a constant temperature until the specific gravity drops to 1010. Never ever get too lazy to use the hydrometer.
Photos courtesy of Colin Penrose
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I have brewed for 30 years and I use the hydrometer every time to indicate the brew is ready for bottling. You can then add carbonation drops or sugar to the bottle before bottling. Add all the sugar to the bottles, then fill all the bottles before commencing to cap them. This will give the residual yeast time to work on the sugar and form a protective layer of CO2 over the beer. Store your filled bottles until carbonated at the same temperature as you fermented. A good way to tell if carbonation has taken place is to hold a bottle up to the light and check the air space above the beer. If there are small droplets of moisture in this area, it’s carbonated. The bottles can then be stored in a cool, dark place for a minimum of two weeks before drinking. They will improve dramatically with age. Your choices of beer styles are endless. Most brew-shop owners should be able to formulate a recipe for any type of beer. Once you have perfected the art of brewing simple beers, the next step is to add hops or do a mini-mash with some cracked grains. When adding hops or grains to the recipe, make sure you match the hops and grains to the beer being brewed. There are many types of hops and grains on the market. You can even grow your own hops (see page 54). Many different malt extracts are available from home-brew stores. With gluten-free extract and brewing yeast available, even coeliacs are covered. Organic malt can be found in Australia in grain form only at present. Compared to malt-extract brewing, making beer from all grain is a lot more difficult and requires expensive equipment. Organic malt-extract in liquid and dried form is widely available in the USA. As demand increases in Australia, they should soon be obtainable here as well — it’s really a matter of supply and demand. For now, the cost of importing small quantities is quite restrictive. Brewing your own beer is not only cheap but it gives you scope to try many more different styles. Home-brewed beer is also fairly good for you as it has no preservatives or harmful chemicals. Even
the sediment in the bottom of the bottle has health benefits. Like Vegemite, which is made from leftover brewer’s yeast, it’s full of B vitamins. * These and many other tips are included in a book I wrote called The Homebrewer Survival Guide, available through my website at www.brewerschoice. net.au. If you need any help with any aspect of home brewing, please feel free to email me on colin@brewerschoice.net.au. ■
Beyond the Pale Ale Here is a cheap and simple way to improve a Coopers Australian Pale Ale, a beer available in bottles and on tap in most pubs. All you need is the Coopers kit and 1kg of Pale Ale mix of dried malt extract and dextrose plus 15g of Pride of Ringwood hops. Boil the hops in a litre of water and strain through a sieve into the fermenter – add the extract and brewing sugars to the fermenter – bring up to 23 litres and pitch the yeast at 23°C. Then carry on with your brew as normal. Leaving this beer for an extra couple of weeks to mature will improve it immensely.
Good Organic Gardening | 53
THE SHED | Organic home brewing
GYO (grow your own) beer Fancy a home brew that’s homegrown? If you live in the southern parts of Australia, hops are certainly worth growing By Jennifer Stackhouse
H
ops are the flowers of the climbing plant Humulus lupulus. The climber grows each spring, sprouting from a rhizome beneath the soil to produce many twining stems, rough but handsomely lobed leaves and the flowers that brewers covet. A curious feature of the hop plant is they produce male and female flowers on separate plants. The pendulous female flowers — clusters of small, green bracts — are used in beer making. The male flowers form open panicles but, as fertilisation isn’t required for beer hops, these are not grown. Hop flowers are abundant and appear in summer. They are ready to harvest in early autumn as they become ripe and start to dry. Established vines produce bigger crops. Each female hop flower is made up of many tiny flowers concealed under the bracts. These flowers, which are called “cones” or “strobilus”, give beer its bitter flavour and distinctive aroma. The main resins in hop flowers are humulone and lupulone. The keys to successful hop production are growing in the right climate (cool parts of Victoria and Tasmania are ideal), having plenty of moisture through spring and summer (as all that growth needs to be kept well watered) and lots of sunshine. Feed with a complete organic fertiliser in spring when the new growth begins. Hops need a support such as a wall, trellis or, ideally, a climbing frame to grow on. An open frame running east–west to maximise sunlight on the vine gives best growth. Commercial hops are trained along posts and wires. Plants grow 3–9m across and 5–6m high, so they need plenty of space to spread out and grow during summer. However, balance the height with your ability to reach the top of the plant to harvest the hops. After the autumn harvest as the vines die back, they can be cut down to regrow the following spring. The rhizomes can be lifted and divided in late winter or early spring to produce new plants. Varieties favoured for brewing include ‘Pride of Ringwood’, ‘Super Pride’ and ‘Cluster’.
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THINGS TO DO | Mid-summer
January Gardening in January means dealing with the extremes of heat we experience in Australia. It may be hot and dry or hot and humid, so be prepared to nurture your plants to make the most of summer growth and fruitfulness By Jennifer Stackhouse Vegetables COOL & TEMPERATE Don’t let the hot weather keep you out of the garden. Use the cooler hours of the early morning to water and tend crops, check for pests, remove weeds and harvest daily. On very hot days, shade crops to prevent sun damage and water in both the morning and evening to avoid water stress. Continue hand-pollinating pumpkins, squash and zucchini if crops are slow to form on their own. When temperatures rise above 35°C, crops may stop forming but plants keep growing. Make sure tomatoes are well watered to avoid blossom-end rot in the fruit and protect all soft vegies from fruit flies where they are active. Use organic fruit-fly baits or cover fruit with exclusion bags. Regularly liquid-feed all edibles, especially leafy greens. Use a hoe to keep weeds under control and cover any bare soil with a thin layer of organic mulch. Plant a row of dwarf beans for a quick summer crop. TROPICAL Harvest crops regularly to eat them while they are small and tender. While vital with zucchini and cucumber, which quickly become large, this also applies to leafy crops. Use up excess harvest in preserves such as pickled cucumbers or tomato sauces. Keep sowing crops that enjoy the wet season, including capsicum, cucumber, beans and soft-hearted lettuce. Shade new plantings to protect them from heat or heavy rains. Where there are no crops growing, plant a green manure crop to add fertility to the soil in time for dry-season planting. Combat powdery
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safely protect crops against predators and can be reused. TROPICAL Keep harvesting the bountiful fruit crops of summer, including passionfruit, avocado, custard apples, mango and pawpaw. Handpollinate passionfruit flowers if fruit is slow to form. Bottle, freeze or dry excess crops. If fungal diseases are evident on fruit or foliage, apply a copper-based fungicide approved for organic gardens. Also, keep organic fruit-fly baits fresh by regularly reapplying and protecting them from rain. Fertilise avocado, banana, custard apple, jackfruit, loquat, passionfruit and pawpaw.
Compost & soil 1
mildew with regular applications of milk spray (one part whole milk to 10 parts water).
Fruit COOL & TEMPERATE Keep up fruit-fly protection for still-ripening soft fruits, including raspberries. Use baits, traps and exclusion bags. Mow or weed around fruit trees and deep water once a week if rain is scarce, but reduce watering of fig trees. Use nets to protect crops against bird and bat damage, but select white knitted nets that are less likely to harm birds, bats and reptiles through entanglement. Stretch nets so they are taut, avoid nets pooling on the ground and regularly inspect them to free any trapped animals. Fruit baskets that snap over clusters of fruit are another option to
COOL & TEMPERATE Chop up green prunings and seed-free weeds to add them to compost heaps. Heaps should be moist but protected from excess water by covering in periods of prolonged rain. Compost is forming rapidly, so regularly use straight from the heap, spreading it over the soil as natural mulch to protect soils, keep soils cool and deter weed growth. Keep worm farms in a cool location. TROPICAL Summer storms continue to leach nutrients from soils, so renew mulches or simply lay down chopped-up prunings to protect the soil. Apply fertilisers, including potash, to rapidly growing plants, including fruiting crops and vegetables. Use the cooler evening to do vigorous work such as turning the compost heap or spreading mulches.
Mid-Summer | THINGS TO DO
2 3 1. In cool and temperate areas, regularly liquid-feed all edibles, especially leafy greens 2. Jackfruit need fertilising now in tropical zones — as do avocado, banana and pawpaw 3. Keep harvesting custard apples and fertilise the tree now too 4. Grab a hoe and chip between edibles to keep weeds down 5. Harvest crops, such as zucchini, while small and tender 5
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THINGS TO DO | Late-summer
February Late summer is a bountiful time in edible gardens, so make the most of prolific crops by harvesting frequently and preserving excess. To enjoy the wide variety available, try bartering with other growers who have different produce By Jennifer Stackhouse Vegetables COOL & TEMPERATE Continue to make the most of the cooler hours of the day to water and tend crops. Stay on top of pests, diseases and weeds by inspecting plants daily and dealing with any problems quickly. Feeding leafy vegies each week with a liquid organic plant food means they’ll continue to grow. As hot days continue, shade crops to prevent sun damage and to allow new plantings to establish. Seedlings are particularly vulnerable. Leafy crops, such as lettuce and parsley, may bolt (that is begin to flower and seed) if allowed to dry out. Pull out spent crops or those that are hard hit by fungal diseases. Hunt out and squash 28-spotted ladybirds and pumpkin beetles that may be skeletonising leaves on pumpkins, zucchini and squash. Note: The common spotted ladybird, a gardener’s friend, is bright orange with black dots on its back. They’re voracious predators of aphids, scale insects and mites. The pest variety is easy to identify: they are a lightorange colour and have 28 spots.
Stop the mozzies Repeatedly empty water that’s collected in containers to remove breeding grounds for mosquitoes. Even water put out for pets, poultry, native birds and bees should be replenished daily to avoid mosquitoes.
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dry and water is limited, grey water can be used to water around fruit trees only (not edibles), but don’t store untreated greywater for longer than 24 hours.
1
TROPICAL Regularly remove spent crops or those that are badly affected by diseases, such as powdery mildew, but don’t put diseased material into compost heaps; it can be buried instead. Continue to renew fruit-fly baits by mixing up fresh material and remove any fruit-fly-affected fruit. Destroy the larvae in infected fruit by placing the fruit in a clear plastic bag and leaving it to stew for a few days in the sun. It can then be buried. Liquid-feed leafy crops so they are encouraged to keep growing. Plant cherry tomatoes for an autumn harvest.
TROPICAL Fertilise all citrus trees using an organic plant food formulated for citrus. Also feed other productive plants not already fed this summer, including passionfruit and pawpaw. Continue to bottle, freeze or dry excess crops and to collect and dispose of spoiled fruits. Poultry can help clean up fallen fruits and reduce pest problems, so allow them to free-range around fruiting plants, but keep them out of the vegie garden.
Compost & soil
Fruit
COOL & TEMPERATE If soils have become difficult to wet, the safest and best water-storage aid is to dig in aged animal manures. Once soil is moistened, cover lightly with a fine layer of compost topped with a layer of coarse organic mulch. Don’t mulch too heavily as this can stop moisture from reaching the soil; a 5cm layer is sufficient. Turn compost heaps to keep them working efficiently.
COOL & TEMPERATE Continue to maintain fruit-fly protection (see above for details on disposing of fruit-flyaffected fruit) and also check nets that are protecting crops. Remove and carefully store these nets after fruit is harvested. Lightly prune trees after harvest. Feed citrus trees now using a citrus food or organic fertiliser. Where areas are
TROPICAL This is the time to improve the moisture-holding ability of your soil by adding organic mulch such as compost. Dig it into new areas in preparation for planting and also add it as surface mulch and let the earthworms do the work. Chop up green and woody material before adding it to the compost to help it break down faster.
late-Summer | THINGS TO DO
2 3 1. Make sure you identify the pest species of ladybird correctly. it is very distinctive — light orange in colour and has 28 spots 2. The common ladybird is a beneficial insect and is bright orange with a few black spots/ patches on its back 3. Use an organic fertiliser or citrus food to feed all citrus trees now 4. In tropical areas, productive plants, such as pawpaw and passionfruit, can be fed now 5. To help avoid mosquitoes, regularly empty water that’s collected in containers, pot saucers or bowls to remove their breeding grounds
4 5
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FEATHERED FRIENDS | Broody hens
It is educational as well as fun to allow a broody hen to set and hatch a clutch of eggs
MOTHER LOVE Words by Megg Miller t’s a surprise when you go to collect the day’s eggs and a hen is ensconced on the nest and will not budge. She may not want to share her eggs, either, and any attempts on your part to steal a couple are rewarded with a determined peck. Ouch! She means business. It is a fact that some hens develop broodiness, particularly during the warmer summer months. Not all poultry owners know what this is called or why it happens, but they will certainly have encountered a stubborn hen that has refused to leave
I
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the nest. She returns if removed, eggs get broken but, even worse, you cannot work out whether they’re fresh or weeks old. A hen that stays put and fluffs up her feathers to look large and intimidating while making “puk, puk, puk” sounds is most definitely broody. Some folk may refer to it as being clucky. This is actually nesting behaviour in which the hen gathers eggs with the intention of sitting on them and hatching offspring. It generally occurs after a hen has laid a clutch or sequence of eggs. For the Silkie hen, it may be eight–10 eggs, but for a fowl such as the Sussex, the clutch could contain 20–24 eggs.
Broodiness is initiated by the endocrine system and is intensified by a wide variety of environmental factors. These include a darkened or secluded nest site, eggs, high ambient temperature, inactivity and a dropoff in feed intake.
Broody breeds Silkies and Pekin bantams vie for most consistent and persistent broodiness. They must also be acknowledged as very loving mums. Many of the game breeds are also inclined to broodiness and can be quite aggressive. You may need gloves to pick up and move a broody Indian game or Old English game hen.
Photos courtesy of Megg Miller
Will your backyard beauties be broody bothers this summer?
Broody hens |
Pekin hens are the perfect choice if you want a broody breed
FEATHERED FRIENDS
This hen is broody — not only has she collected a cache of eggs, she doesn’t want to leave them
If neighbours advise on how their grandmother dealt with broodies or offer weird ideas gleaned off the internet, ignore them. There is a simple rule of thumb if buying hens: purebreds with red earlobes are likely to go broody – and if they have lots of soft, flouncy feathers, they are likely to be very inclined to broodiness. Australorp, Cochin, Faverolles, Orpington, Plymouth Rock, Rhode Island, Sussex and Wyandottes can all be put in this category. What about bantams? Smaller birds, especially cross-breeds, seem inclined to motherhood. In the main, if a purebred bantam’s large counterpart is on the broody list, they will be susceptible too.
Non-broody hens It’s a relief to know that not all hens exhibit broodiness, especially if you feel nervous about being pecked. Commercial birds such as ISA Brown and Hy-Line are broody-proof. Judicious selection over many years has resulted in hens that are free of this trait. A number of pure-breds also tend to be non-broody. These include Ancona, Campine, Leghorn, Hamburg and Minorca — all of which lay white-shelled eggs —
plus Barnevelder and Welsummer, brownegg layers. Australian Langshans are also generally non-broody.
Home hatching Do you want to hatch chicks? If you do, can you locate fertile eggs for your broody hen fairly quickly? For families, observing chicks hatching and seeing the balls of fluff running around is a miracle that is worth the extra effort involved. Fertile eggs are sold on poultry sites online. Try asking for contacts at your produce store where chook feed is sold. Agricultural show societies are another source of breeder contacts. Most “broodies” comfortably cover nine–15 eggs, depending on their body size and whether eggs are from bantam or large fowl. But before you set the eggs under Blackie, she needs to be moved to a quiet, private pen or box. Set up the new home with similar nesting material and pop half a dozen golf balls or plastic eggs in the nest. Move the broody hen at night when she is sleepy and
dust her thoroughly with sulphur powder or diatomaceous earth (both safe treatments to use on poultry) to kill lice and mites. Broodies with external parasites go crazy and often abandon nest and eggs. Additional follow-up dusting once weekly during setting will eliminate any parasites that may hatch. If your broody accepts the new nest and location, you can substitute the fertile eggs for the fake ones. Again, do this at night. Mark your calendar because in 20–21 days, chicks should hatch. Hurrah! Food and water should be placed near the hen and she will get off the nest regularly to pass huge volumes of faeces and eat and drink. She may also want to have a dust bath and freshen up.
Eggs not chicks What if you only want your normal quota of eggs and wish the inconvenience of broodiness just disappeared? A more appropriate choice of hen next time round will eliminate this issue but if your nest box is like a maternity ward, action is called for.
Good Organic Gardening | 61
FEATHERED FRIENDS | Broody hens
If you find a hen refusing to leave the nest box, suspect the development of broodiness
A hen that stays put and fluffs up her feathers to look large and intimidating while making “puk, puk, puk” sounds is most definitely broody. The secret to managing broodies is to check nightly for any hens snoozing in the nest box. There and then they should be relocated to an unfamiliar temporary coop that’s airy and well lit. Do not put a broody in a semi-dark crate or cage where she can make a nest and sit. Anticipate having your broody back in the regular henhouse – free of all signs of broodiness – and laying in 12–14 days, but only if you act at the first indication of broodiness. Let a hen sit in the nest box for a week and it will take at least three weeks for recovery.
Don’t be cruel If neighbours advise on how their grandmother dealt with broodies or offer weird ideas gleaned off the internet, ignore them. People have been very cruel in the past and dunked broodies into water, lit fires under
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them and used other barbaric methods. Any of these are worthy of reporting to the RSPCA. Best practice today involves an alternative environment to the nest box — one that encourages activity such as scratching, flying onto a perch and jumping, and pecking at suspended greens. All this is not difficult to achieve. If you have chosen pure-breds with their longevity and sustainability in mind, then you may have broodies to contend with. The commercial birds, such as the ISA, haven’t been bred for long lives, nor do they carry the genes organic followers want to preserve but, in their favour, they do not go broody. Decisions, decisions. Isn’t some inconvenience a small price to pay for the pleasure of stunning Wyandottes or majestic Orpingtons? And you sleep easy knowing you are doing your bit to conserve genes that may prove invaluable in the future. ■
Day-old chicks can be purchased and raised under a heat globe if you don’t have a broody hen
Eggs are simply the best. We give them the best certified organic grain – no meat-meal (unlike others). We value the welfare of our feathered friends; that’s why we give them an idyllic habitat with plenty of space to roam, lots of deep mulch to scratch through, shady trees and lush pasture so our eggs are nutrient dense and rich in omega 3’s. We run no more than 600 hens per hectare. Our hens are always occupied so we don’t have to debeak.
Happy hens lay sensational eggs.
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PROFESSIONAL ORGANICS | Redbank Organic Farm
Happy scratchers: Chris and Ann’s hens are rotated to a new paddock every few days
Redbank
Organic Farm Oxhill eggs come from healthy free-roaming hens that live a natural existence at Redbank Organic Farm Words & photos by Diane Norris his 200ha organic farm in Wauchope, near Port Macquarie, NSW, is run by Paul and Jenny Eggert, their son Chris and his wife Ann. Family involvement in the business is important to them and Chris and Ann’s three young sons take great pleasure in working on the farm, too; they’re given meaningful daily jobs, which they enjoy. Chris is a fourth-generation dairy farmer. The farm was first settled by his greatgrandfather. Their business, Eggert Agripartners, began the conversion to organic in 2000. Before then, they ran a high-input, high-
T
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production, conventional dairy. “We converted to the organic farming system virtually overnight,” Chris says. He says this required a lot of hard work, mistake making, paradigm shifts and a steep learning curve. In 2010 they started a new enterprise of organic pasture-range egg production under the label Oxhill Organics. In January 2013 they took over the whole business, packing the eggs on-farm and handling the marketing and distribution, which, until then, was looked after by two business associates. They milk about 180 cows, producing one million litres of milk each year, and have
around 2000 laying chickens producing 90–100 dozen eggs a day. “It’s hard work but it’s worth it,” says Ann. “It is especially satisfying when we get positive feedback direct from customers.” Farming organically means they can’t use any artificial fertilisers, antibiotics or pesticides in the production of the milk or eggs.
Farming practices The farm has a strong focus on recycling nutrients and improving the soil. Instead of hosing down the dairy yard every day, Chris puts down hay to collect the cow manure and then turns this product into compost,
Redbank Organic Farm
which is used to fertilise the farm. This saves a large amount of water and is an extremely effective method of recycling the nutrients from the farm. “As the health of the cows has improved from our changed farming methods, so has the manure,” says Chris, “which, in turn, improves the compost; the compost improves the soil and the pasture that the cows eat. This further improves the manure for the cycle to begin again.” Chris, I must say, is a very passionate organic farmer and one of his favourite things about farming is creating his compost. Crop rotation, controlled grazing and application of various inputs (compost, gypsum, lime, rock phosphate and kelp) to create healthy soils and cows are the main driving forces behind the production of milk.
Chicken management The chicken “caravans” (movable sheds) are moved every day, giving uniform distribution of nutrients. “By moving the sheds and hens each day, there is a low risk of leaching and volatilisation,” Chris says, “as the biology in the soil is able to assimilate the volume of
nutrients deposited in one day.” He claims this portable method also reduces the smell, and the nutrients are stored in the soil to grow great pastures for the cows and chickens to eat in the next grazing rotation. The chickens are moved to different paddocks on the farm and within those paddocks. Every three days the chickens go to a fresh paddock using portable electric fence netting. This gives an even graze and ensures there is 100 per cent ground cover when the chickens leave the existing paddock. After the hens are moved out, each paddock is allowed to rest for 40–60 days before anything grazes on it again. “Keeping the grass new and fresh means the chickens eat a large amount of grass and insects, combined with milk and grain sourced directly from farms that use compost to grow their grain,” Chris says. “This means our customers and our family get awesome eggs to eat, while also improving the chickens’ welfare and the environment in which they live. We also use 100 per cent organic feed for our chickens, which goes beyond the certifying criteria for organic eggs.”
| PROFESSIONAL ORGANICS
The chickens are not fed protein or soy meal, so they get their protein requirements from the grass, insects and milk. Also, the chickens are not debeaked or “tipped” (tipping is when a small amount of the beak is taken off ). Chris and Ann think it’s essential that the chickens are able to exhibit all their natural behaviours by pecking and scratching at the ground — as nature intended.
Field days Chris and Ann have run quite a number of field days on their farm and have hosted school groups and families, affording participants an educational introduction to life on a farm. They both believe it’s important for people to have a connection with the food they buy and where it comes from. The way the farm is run means it’s possible for visitors to enjoy a hands-on experience that’s fun, educational and safe. Organic farmers are committed to their way of life and to healthy ecosystems and care for the Earth, which Chris and Ann exemplify. Most importantly, they are passing on their ethos to their sons, who will be the next-generation custodians of Redbank Organic Farm.
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PROFESSIONAL ORGANICS | Organigrow
Simon’s fossicking Bonds Browns live a truly free-range lifestyle, protected from predators by faithful Maremma dogs
Organigrow
Organic Eggs True organic free-range eggs from hens living in an idyllic chook-friendly habitat Words & photos Simon Cripps Clark, Organigrow hat came first, the chicken ... or the egg? The egg has always come first, both in evolution and also here at our farm. It is by providing idyllic conditions for our hens that we produce perfect eggs. At Organigrow, we put our hens’ welfare first, giving each of them conditions in which they can thrive and be happy so they can give eggs with all the goodness nature can provide.
W
Hen by nature The hen evolved naturally in dense forests, scratching among the litter for bugs and picking seeds, shoots and leaves in forest glens. They feel for their food with their beaks, which are
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packed with nerves and are incredibly sensitive. They get most of their nutrition by feeling for detritivores (worms, insects and other little organisms responsible for decomposition) in the leaf litter. Modern commercial-farming techniques mean the laying hen usually has a very different life. In industrial farming, they stuff thousands of hens into a stark steel shed with little outside but a patch of bare dirt. No wonder the hens get bored and start picking on each other in frustration. This leads to cannibalism, the little talkedof feature of factory free-range farms. To try to prevent this, farmers cut off the end of the hens’ beaks, causing the birds so much pain they can’t peck at anything harder than pellets.
Most of the larger organic and so-called “freerange” farms do this.
Natural husbandry At Organigrow we’re different. We keep our hens in small movable eco-shelters with no more than 200 birds in a shelter. The shelters are clustered around movable feed-lines. Their feed ration is fully certified organic and vegetarian — it does not contain “up to five per cent non-organic meat meal” like other organic eggs might — and that’s why ours taste so good. The shelters, along with the plenty of low shrubs and trees, deeply mulched beds to scratch through and many hectares of lush pasture and forest to wander around, give the hens plenty do. They don’t get bored and never pick on each other. In what I consider more civilised countries, beak trimming is banned because it’s seen as inhumane mutilation. Yet, in Australia, our leading organic certifier, the ACO (Australian Certified Organic), has allowed it as a standard practice (as has the RSPCA) and so does the wider industry. Some organic and free-range farmers often keep more than 15,000 birds in one shed. How could the hens ever get any green
Organigrow
| PROFESSIONAL ORGANICS
I have kept hens since I was a small boy and have observed their behaviour carefully, so my farm grew from this love of chooks and my desire to give them the best possible environment to thrive in. peck with this density of numbers? Even at our rate (600 birds per hectare), I need to manage my pastures carefully to make sure the hens get green peck. At 5000 or more birds per hectare, they would turn the paddock into a dust bowl in mere days.
Better ways After investigating the cruel practices of industrial-scale egg farming, I was determined to come up with a system that worked for us and the chooks. This is why I pioneered a new way of doing things — or is it simply an extension of age-old practices of keeping hens in small clusters? I have kept hens since I was a small boy and have observed their behaviour carefully, so my farm grew from this love of chooks and my desire to give them the best possible environment to thrive in. I have been certified organic for around 15 years and practised organic farming for many years before this. Originally, I grew avocados, passionfruit
and mangoes, with a large garden and a few chooks and cows. I used to buy tonnes of chook manure to feed my fruit and vegies but when a friend retired from supplying eggs to local shops, he offered me some of his old equipment and customer list. I took this up as an alternative to importing non-organic manure and the egg business grew from there. I now supply the major cities on the east coast, as well as local shops, with the best-quality organic eggs.
My hens I keep Bonds Brown hens, which are a bit more placid than other brown breeds. At the end of their time on the farm I sell them to “backyarders” and they often comment that they are very friendly. I can pick them up and cuddle them — I always treat my feathered friends with respect and love. One problem with keeping hens is their feed attracts rats. This is not just a problem because the rats eat and spoil the very
expensive organic feed; they also chew and damage the shelters, wiring and pipes and can spread disease. Most producers use poison baits but the rats soon become wary of these, and those that take the bait can be eaten by owls or the hens, thus either killing the best ratters around or lacing your eggs with poison. I have taken a different approach and solved this problem by covering the feeders at night. I use metal cone covers, which automatically lower over the feeders in the evening and raise again in the morning, all controlled by water-filled ballasts. Thus I have very few rats and these are kept under control by my friends, the owls.
My passion Our organic eggs come from our organic farm and hens that are healthy and living as nature intended. My ethos is simple: organic pasture, happy hens and perfect eggs.
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GARDEN TO GLASS | SUMMER JUICING
Fruit & vegie cocktails Good health and party fun come together in these delicious summer drinks Courtesy of Nature’s Wonderland Health and Wellness Store
W
ith summer comes the warm weather, so everyone’s keen to get out and party, especially around the pool or at the beach. And it’s the season for alfresco weekend get-togethers and glitzy evening outdoor parties. Lots of partying can quickly lead to a wayward diet, though, and we don’t need any extra kilos piling onto our lithe, tanned bodies, now, do we? Keep on track while having heaps of fun and staying natural and healthy. Don’t know what drinks to serve? Try one of these super-fun fruit and vegie cocktails with a kick. No matter what the occasion, these tempting (and healthy) summer drinks are perfect for all your summertime frolics. We love to experiment with unusual tastes and combining standard juices into cocktails is exciting. Who said healthy has to mean
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abstinence? We’re sure many of you will enjoy adding a bit of oomph to your weekend party time with a dash of fun in your juices. No one can feel any pangs of guilt while sipping a healthy, organic martini made with the goodness of fresh produce. After all, it must be good for you! Try something different next time you have friends around. These drinks are light and refreshing, with the fresh flavours of the produce pleasantly permeating the cocktails.
Directions for juicing First, rinse the produce. You may peel anything with very tough skin. A small amount of rind on citrus imparts more zest — however, never use the fruit with the whole peel as it’s too strong. Cut produce into finger-sized pieces before putting each ingredient through the juicer and combining in the glass. Drink immediately.
Juicing vs blending
Directions for blending
When preparing these recipes, note the difference between juicing and blending. A juicer will separate juice from pulp automatically, so no need to peel or remove seeds etc. With a blender, all parts of the food remain in the drink, so you will need to core, peel and remove what you don’t want in the mix. Blended food will have a thick result and is best for smoothies.
Rinse produce. Peel tough-skinned foods and core or remove seeds from edibles such as apples and pumpkins. Cut produce into finger-sized pieces and place all ingredients in the blender. Process for about two minutes or until completely smooth. Fill your glass and enjoy!
SUMMER JUICING | GARDEN TO GLASS
Raspberry Razz
Ouzotini
Diamonds are Forever
Fresh summer berries are delicious! If you’ve ever had the pleasure of picking berries from your own garden (or gathering some wild berries), you know how wonderfully tasty fresh berries are. If not, you can still find fresh berries in the summer at farmers’ markets and pick-your-own berry farms. They’re also available any time of the year at supermarkets and grocery stores if you don’t mind them frozen. The raspberries give this cocktail a beautiful, rich, red colour. It’s the perfect mix for an afternoon poolside drink or sweet dessert cocktail.
Fresh pineapple juice with a great twist This pineapple juice vodka martini has a surprise ingredient: the Greek spirit, ouzo. The result — wow! If the pineapple is organically grown, you can juice the rind as well. The rind of the pineapple is the primary source of bromelain. What more can you ask for from this easyto-make, sweet and delish drink? Chinese herbalists suggest adding a little salt to pineapples to help reduce and/ or eliminate a slight itch the pineapple may cause at the tip of the tongue.
Our lychee martini cocktail recipe This drink is sweet yet light and refreshing, with the fresh, perfumed flavour of the lychee pleasantly permeating the cocktail. Try this deliciously fruity version of the martini, we’re sure you’ll fall in love with it. Traditionally, the Chinese consider the lychee a symbol of love and romance. In Chinese, lychee means “gift for a joyful life” and giving the fruit was often considered a proposal of marriage.
Makes 2 servings
30mL coconut water 60mL lychee juice 45mL gin 15mL dry vermouth
Makes 2 servings 2 cups raspberries 2 apples 1 lime or lemon, peeled ½ grapefruit ¼ cup vodka Purée the fresh fruits in a cold-press juicer. In a martini shaker, combine ingredients and ice. Shake well. Strain into two chilled martini glasses rimmed with sugar (sugar is optional). Health benefits: This recipe will help to reduce inflammation, alleviating arthritis and gout. Berries are low in calories and high in fibre and contain vitamins and minerals your body needs to function normally. Raspberries may help to reduce your risk of several types of cancers and they also contain lutein, which is important for healthy vision. One cup of raspberries offers vitamin C and potassium and has only 64 calories. You need vitamin C for immune system function and for strong connective tissue.
½ cup fresh pineapple juice ¼ cup ouzo ¼ cup vodka 1 tsp fresh lime juice ½ cup ice (omit if desired) Purée the fresh pineapple in a coldpress juicer. In a martini shaker, combine pineapple juice, ouzo, vodka, lime juice and ice. Shake well and strain into two chilled martini glasses rimmed with sugar (sugar is optional). Tip: When choosing your fruit, look for golden-coloured skin that has a sweet aroma. When juicing pineapple in a coldpress juicer, be aware the process may well be slower than usual due to the many fibres in the pineapple. Also, take care if using the rind. Be sure to keep a close eye on the process and don’t allow the juicer to become blocked. Omit rind if you have any doubts, as rind that’s too hard will cause problems. The same applies to the core. Many pineapples have a sweet, soft core, but some have cores as tough as old boots. Don’t try to juice the latter. Health benefits: Fresh pineapple juice is a delicious and healthy drink rich in the protein-digesting enzyme, bromelain, and peroxidase, a natural digestive enzyme also known to be anti–inflammatory. In addition, it’s thought to be a major anti-tumour component. Pineapple juice is also filled with vitamin C and potassium and contains manganese, a trace mineral that helps build and maintain healthy bones.
Makes 2 servings
Variation: For a richer drink, include extra fruits: 30mL pineapple juice (optional) 30mL papaya juice (optional) Pierce the coconut and drain the water. Skin the fruits and remove stones from lychees. If using pineapple, remove the hard core. Place fruits alternately through your cold-press juicer, which will separate the pulp and hard pieces from the juice with no need to strain further. In a martini shaker, combine juices, gin, vermouth and ice. Shake vigorously. Strain into two chilled martini or cocktail glasses. Garnish with two to three lychees threaded on a toothpick. Tip: If you want an extra dash of colour, add a drop or two of cranberry juice to match the skin of lychees. Health benefits: Lychees have anticancer, anti–ageing and anti–inflammatory properties and are good for digestion and sore throats. They are a good source of copper, potassium, riboflavin, antioxidants and vitamin C.
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GARDEN TO GLASS | SUMMER JUICING
Aurora Australis
Beet this Martini
Kool Kale Cocktail
A vibrant red and violet cocktail In Roman mythology, Aurora, goddess of the dawn, renews herself every morning and flies across the sky announcing the arrival of the sun. An aurora, of course, is also the name for the phenomenon of great displays of shifting colours in the far northern (borealis) and far southern (australis) skies. Aurora was given its name by Galileo Galilei. Like its namesake, this cocktail is vibrant with the red and violet colours of these spectacular displays. What better way to brighten up your party than with one of these exotic beauties?
Try something different: beetroot cocktail
Juice the new superfood — kale What a superb way to unwind after a hard day. One of these beauties will soon smooth things over. Move over spinach, and make room for kale. Gaining in popularity, kale is an amazing vegetable recognised for its exceptional nutrient richness, health benefits and delicious flavour. Kale is quite possibly the healthiest thing you can juice, making a drink that’s like liquid gold for your health.
Makes 3 servings 1 cup fresh strawberries (or frozen, thawed) 1 cup fresh blueberries (or frozen, thawed) 1 cup fresh red currants (or frozen, thawed) 1 cup fresh blackberries (or frozen, thawed) 1 cup peeled & coarsely chopped mango ¼ cup water (optional) 60ml gin Place fruits in your cold-press juicer, alternately combining the blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, red currants and mango (if desired, thin a little with fresh water). In a martini shaker, combine juices and gin, adding ice if desired. Shake vigorously and strain into three chilled martini or cocktail glasses. Before serving, garnish with a slice of fruit or throw in some berries for added “yum” factor. Tip: Cold-pressed juice can be refrigerated for up to two days (shake before serving). Health benefits: The abundant antioxidants in berries boast potent anti-ageing benefits. Antioxidants offer a number of health benefits and have been touted as a possible preventive of diseases ranging from cancer to Alzheimer’s. Research suggests that antioxidants can indeed be effective in preventing a number of age-related diseases. The king of fruits, mango, is one of the most popular, nutritionally rich fruits with unique flavour, fragrance and healthpromoting qualities. Brimming with goodness, mangoes are high in energy, low in fat and a great source of calcium and vitamins essential for good health.
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Makes 1 serving 30mL beetroot purée 60mL vodka 15mL fresh lemon juice Dash vanilla extract Dash simple syrup* Tarragon leaves for garnish Lemon slices for garnish Purée the fresh beets in your coldpress juicer. Shake all ingredients together vigorously (over ice if preferred). Strain into a martini glass and garnish with a tarragon leaf and a slice or two of lemon. * Note: Some people prefer to use sweetening to offset the tartness of the juices used in this recipe. Granulated sugar does not dissolve easily in cold drinks but simple syrup does the job. Simple syrup is made by stirring granulated sugar into a saucepan of hot water until dissolved, then cooling the solution. Generally, the ratio of sugar to water can range from 1:1 to 2:1. Don’t allow the syrup to boil for too long or it will be too thick. Health benefits: Beets have traditionally been used for healing. One of the major benefits of beetroot juice is it contains a colour pigment called betalain, a powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, fungicidal and aid in detoxification. Beetroot juice may be used as a remedy for anaemia, tiredness and eye complaints; liver, kidney and skin problems; cancer and can aid lymphatic circulation.
Makes 2 servings 30mL kale, puréed 60mL gin 15mL lime juice Dash vanilla extract Dash simple syrup (optional) Kale leaf for garnish Submerge the chopped kale leaves in cold tap water, give them a good swish and squeeze hard. Rinse and spin dry. This process can help remove some bitterness. Purée the fresh kale leaves in your cold-press juicer. Shake all ingredients vigorously (over ice if preferred), strain into a martini glass and garnish with a kale leaf. Health benefits: Kale is a superstar vegie, a nutritional powerhouse and a good source of minerals — copper, potassium, iron, manganese and phosphorus — helping to reduce obesity, diabetes and heart disease. Kale’s health benefits are primarily linked to the high concentration of antioxidant vitamins A, C and K and sulphur-containing phytonutrients associated with anticancer health benefits. Kale is also rich in lutein and zeaxanthin compounds, which promote eye health. The fibre content of cruciferous kale binds bile acids, helping to lower blood cholesterol levels and reduce the risk of heart disease.
Nature’s Wonderland is a family-owned and -operated business, the result of years of dedication and innovation by four young siblings. From a single store in Warburton, Victoria, in 1996, and online since 1999, Nature’s Wonderland has built a reputation with a diverse and high-quality product portfolio using only the most superior merchandise available.
GARDEN TO TABLE | Four Seasonal Edibles
Introducing our new chef,
Joanna Rushton Joanna Rushton, The Organic Chef, is the author of number-one Amazon bestseller Rocket Fuel on a Budget and founder of the Energy Coaching Institute in Australia. She is an internationally qualified chef, high-performance nutrition, energy and exercise specialist and host of an upcoming television and digital show on holistic wellbeing. Jo regularly consults to corporate wellness companies, designing high-performance nutrition and proactive resilience programs for executives. She is considered an authority on best practices for building personal health and resilience in the workplace. In her blogs, book, presentations and workshops, Jo delights in sharing the latest research that confronts a decade of misleading health and dietary guidelines. She eloquently debunks the myths that keep us from the truth and is guaranteed to inspire and mobilise an audience into action. Jo is currently writing her next book, Food, Mood and Your Attitude — Enhance Your Energy, Health and Professional Productivity, which is about learning how to eat the right foods to boost your mood for life, due for release in late 2013.
Joanna’s menu 74 Kale Salmon & Dill Fishcakes with Steamed Kale & Fried Egg
78 Avocado Summer Chicken & Avocado Salad
82 Tomato Sundried Tomatoes Spicy Tomato Soup with Basil & Parmesan
91 Blueberries Fruit Compote with Natural Yoghurt & Young Coconut
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Four Seasonal Edibles | GARDEN TO TABLE
78 91 74 82
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GROWING
| Kale
Kale Brassica oleracea Acephala Group Words by Jennifer Stackhouse
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Kale | GROWING
K
ale is an old-fashioned green that’s seen a huge resurgence in popularity in recent years. Indeed, it could be described as trendy. Once rarely found, it is now a popular item on restaurant and cafe menus and can be bought in the vegie aisle of your greengrocer or supermarket. Home gardeners, however, can really enjoy kale by experimenting with growing the many different varieties available. It’s also a very handy vegetable to have on hand for winter and spring when greens can be at a premium. The renewed interest in kale is due to its reputation as a “superfood”. It’s packed with vitamins, including vitamin C, folacin and carotene. It’s rich in calcium and iron and is also a good source of dietary fibre. Kale is also highly ornamental and crops over a long period. It is part of the vast brassica, or cabbage, family that also includes Brussels sprouts, broccoli and cauliflower along with lesser-known collards, and, of course, cabbage. Like all brassicas, kale grows best in cool climates and is particularly useful to grow through winter. It isn’t worried by cold or frost but can keep growing when the weather warms. It’s also worth growing through winter in warmer climates.
Some kales develop a thick stem topped by a rosette of cabbage-like leaves while others are more compact with a rosette form. The ornamental kales are very pretty foliage plants. They may be light green, have green leaves marbled with pink, purple or white, or sometimes all these colours in a vibrant mix. These highly coloured kales are sold under names such as Winter Wonder and are used as potted plants or massed among annuals for autumn and winter colour in garden beds and are not usually eaten.
Growing
Kale grows best through the cooler months, so seeds are planted in summer or early autumn. Seedlings can be planted from autumn to spring. Seeds can be direct-sown where they are to grow or started in seedling trays and then transplanted into the garden bed. Sow seeds at about 2cm depth and space seedlings 40–60cm apart, depending on the size of the variety being grown. Like all cabbage relatives, kale grows best in neutral to slightly alkaline soil. Dig in dolomite or lime while preparing the bed for planting, especially in areas with highly acidic A handsome veg soil. Also dig in compost and manure or an organic fertiliser One of the appealing aspects of kales is that it is good to look before planting. at and comes in many shapes and sizes. Best known of all the Keep plants well watered, especially as they establish, kales is Tuscan kale, also called cavolo nero or lancinato, which then every four weeks or so provide a side dressing of has long quilted dark-blue-green to slate-grey leaves. The organic fertiliser such as pelletised chicken or blood and leaves have the look of a palm frond, which leads to another of bone. Alternatively, apply an organic liquid feed every its common names – black Tuscan palm. It forms a tall clump two weeks. around 60cm high and 30cm across and has long been used As this plant is a biennial, it will keep growing and can in Italian cooking. It turns up particularly in Tuscan recipes. be harvested throughout the year. Harvesting can begin Many kale varieties have been grown for centuries, at around seven to eight weeks after planting or when the plant has produced enough leaves. reinforcing the old-fashioned and heritage appeal of this vegetable. Other varieties include Red Russian, also known as Ragged Jack, which has frilly leaves and purple stems, while Troubleshooting Squire has frilly blue-green leaves. Kale is part of the cabbage family and is, therefore, Blue Curled Scotch kale has distinctly curled blue-green attacked by the same pests that affect cabbages. leaves that form a decorative element in the winter vegie Cabbage white butterfly caterpillars, aphids and club garden. These kales grow to around 40–60cm high and root are all problems that may be encountered when 30cm wide. growing kale. Regularly searching over the foliage and removing the green caterpillars by hand is the best organic remedy, but large infestations can be hosed off or treated with Bt (sold as Dipel) or spinosad, which will Common name: Kale also remove aphids. Botanical name: Brassica oleracea Acephala Group Club root is harder to combat but can be controlled Family: Brassicaceae by growing plants in alkaline soil (club root favours acidic Aspect and soil: Sun to part shade; moist but soils) and by following crop rotation; so brassicas are not well-drained soil grown in the same garden bed for several seasons. Best climate: Cool to temperate Habit: Biennial Harvesting, storing and preserving Propagation: Seed, seedling Kale can be harvested leaf by leaf as it is needed. As well as Difficulty: Moderate being cooked as a vegetable, it can also be juiced, added to soup, fried as a green chip or used in pickles. For great recipe ideas, see page 76.
Kale label
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COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Kale
Star ingredient: Kale
Salmon & Dill Fishcakes with Steamed Kale & Fried Egg Serves 1 for breakfast
Method
Ingredients • Splash filtered water • 1 tbsp ghee • 100g raw salmon fillet, minced • 60g raw barramundi fillet, minced • 2 shallots, finely chopped • 1.5 tsp fresh dill, chopped • Celtic sea salt & cracked pepper to season • 1 egg • 1 cup kale, washed & chopped • Butter — a little to toss kale in
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1. Using a splash of water, combine the salmon, barramundi, shallots, dill and seasoning. When completely blended, form the shape of a patty. 2. Heat ghee in a sauté pan and sauté the fish patty for four minutes each side on medium heat. When you turn the pattie over, crack and fry the egg next to the pattie. It will be cooked by the time the fishcake has finished cooking. 3. Meanwhile, steam the kale for approximately three minutes. 4. To serve, toss the kale with a little butter and season with salt and pepper. Place the salmon pattie on top. Then gently top with fried egg. Serve immediately.
Jo’s tip Another Sunday brunch favourite! There are so many different fish combinations and flavours you could play with, even chopping prawns through the mix.
KAle | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON
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GROWING | Avocado
Avocado Persica americana Words by Jennifer Stackhouse
A
s far as productive trees to grow in the backyard go, avocados tick lots of boxes, particularly in warm climates. The trees are shady and their bountiful fruit is delicious, packed with nutrition and easy to eat. They are palatable to most people and the basis of Central American dishes including guacamole. Avocados are native to Central America, including the West Indies, Guatemala and Mexico. Avocado is also suitable for feeding to babies and one of the foods often recommended when they first begin to eat solid food. One of the reasons avocados taste smooth and creamy is that, unlike most other fruits, they contain fat. The fat in avocado, however, is a “good” fat. It doesn’t contain cholesterol and is a form of mono-unsaturated fatty acid. It can even help to lower blood-cholesterol levels, and can be used as a substitute for butter on sandwiches. Avocados also contain folate, vitamins B6, C and E and many of the other B vitamins, including niacin and riboflavin. All are top reasons to grow and eat your own avocados.
Varieties When you think about an avocado, you probably see a large, dark-green, leafy tree. Many avocados evoke this
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image but there are also smaller forms now becoming more widely available to suit small orchards or container growing. Many avocados are seed-grown as these plants are easy to cultivate from the round, hard seeds in the centre of the fruit. But seed-grown plants have their drawbacks. It can take seven to 10 years for them to produce a crop and the fruit may not be the same as the fruit from which the seed was taken.
Avocado label Common name: Avocado Botanical name: Persica americana Family: Lauraceae Aspect and soil: Sun; well-drained soil Best climate: Tropical, subtropical, temperate Habit: Evergreen tree 3–10m+ tall Propagation: Grafted; seed-grown varieties may not come true Difficulty: Moderate
Avocado | GROWING
For a guaranteed crop, buy a named, grafted variety, which should fruit in three to five years from planting. Select varieties that suit your climate. If space permits, plant several varieties to extend harvest times and aid pollination. Good all-round choices include ‘Bacon’ (large, round fruit), ‘Fuerte’ (green, pear-shaped fruits), ‘Hass’ (small fruit over a long period), ‘Sharwil’ (medium, rough, green, oval fruit) and ‘Shepard’ (pear-shaped, smooth, green fruit). ‘Wurtz’ is a naturally dwarf form with rough, pear-shaped fruit that can be grown in smaller gardens. It reaches around 3–4m high and wide.
Pollination needs One of the most curious things about avocados is a quirky habit of the flowers. On most plants, flowers have male stamens and at least one receptive female stigma in each. Occasionally, a flower may be only male or only female, and these blooms can even be on separate plants (known as monoecious). Avocados turn all this on its head by having flowers that change sex during a span of a day. Although avocados are self-fertile and each flower contains both male and female parts, these parts mature at different times, so flowers morph from female to male. On some avocados, the flowers open in the morning with only the female parts mature. These then “close” down to make way for the male parts of the flower to open in the afternoon. In other trees, the female parts open in the afternoon with the male stamens maturing the following morning. As this strange habit affects pollination, avocados are divided depending on their pattern of flowering into A (female in the morning) and B (male in the morning) groups. Although there is usually an overlap on the tree when some flowers are female and others have opened their male parts for business, with a mix of both A and B types, pollination is more successful and heavier crops form. In colder climates and with some varieties, the A/B pattern is not as clear cut. Sometimes avocados produce fruit without pollination occurring at all. These seedless avocados are known as cocktail avocados.
Climate and how to grow Avocados are surprisingly adaptable to a range of climates and grow in all but the very coldest parts of Australia. They even tolerate light frost. They grow best with deep, well-drained, slightly acidic soil, full sun and protected from winds, particularly cold winds. Feed avocados in late winter and repeat the feeding in summer and autumn to encourage fruit development. Use organic chicken manure or a citrus food and water after each application. Also, spread a compost or organic mulch under the plant to help deter weeds, keep the soil evenly moist and provide trace elements. Regular applications of seaweed can also help aid good fruiting.
Avocados are long-lived trees in the right situations and only require pruning to control their size. Keep trees at a “pickable” height with annual pruning in late winter.
Troubleshooting Don’t panic if you see this evergreen tree dropping its leaves while the plant is in flower. This is normal and helps to make the flowers more accessible to pollinators. Leaf drop at other times, however, may indicate rootrot disease. Poorly drained conditions can lead to root-rot diseases, including phytophthora, so always plant avocados in well-drained soils. If the soil is poorly drained, plant your avocado in a raised bed or select a dwarf variety to grow in a large pot. Other problems include poor fruit set or fruit drop. Nutrient deficiency, cold winds or water stress can all lead to fruiting problems. Counteract with regular feeding, nutritious mulch, the application of trace elements (including boron) and regular watering. Protect trees from strong winds. Fungal diseases can also lead to fruit and leaf spotting. This can be managed by applying an organic copper fungicide, such as Fungus Fighter. Although their thick skins protect avocados from fruit fly, the fruit may be damaged by fruit-spotting bugs. Their feeding leads to hard lumps that form under the skin. An organic insecticide (available at garden centres) can help control large infestations of these pests.
Harvesting, storing and preserving Fruiting season varies depending on the type, so there are avocados that mature at different times of the year. For most backyard growers, autumn is a peak time, but plants bear through both winter and autumn. Indications that fruit is ready to harvest include a good size and a dulling or darkening of the skin. To monitor for maturity, pick a large fruit (with some stem attached) and allow it to ripen indoors. If it softens and is tasty in around five days — the rest of the fruit is ready to pick as it is needed.
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COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Avocado
Star ingredient: Avocado
Summer Chicken & Avocado Salad Ideal for lunch. Serves 4
Method
Ingredients • 900g chicken thighs • 2 tbsp organic cold-pressed olive oil • Juice 1 lemon • 1 tsp raw honey • 1 mango, chopped • 1 avocado, chopped • 5 shallots, chopped • 6 cherry tomatoes, halved • ½ cup fresh mint, chopped • 6 handfuls baby spinach, washed • 2 tbsp toasted coconut flakes
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1. Grill chicken thighs first, then slice them into bite-sized pieces to add to the salad mix. 2. Make up the dressing by combining the olive oil, lemon juice and honey together in a sealed-tight bottle and shake well. 3. In a large bowl, combine all other ingredients (except toasted coconut flakes) and pour the dressing over the top. Gently toss the salad so the dressing is evenly spread. 4. Serve on a platter or individual plates and garnish with toasted coconut.
Jo’s tip If mango is too sweet for you, try a green pawpaw or even some pink grapefruit segments instead. Using chicken thighs as opposed to breast adds more flavour and moisture to the salad.
Avocado | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON
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GROWING | Tomato
Tomato Solanum lycopersicum Words by Jennifer Stackhouse
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Tomato | GROWING
T
omatoes are among the most popular and rewarding home garden crops and very much a part of summer gardens. While all fruit and vegetables taste better picked fresh from the garden, tomatoes are in a class of their own. The flavour of a ripe home-grown tomato picked on a warm summer day is hard to beat. Home-grown tomatoes are also packed with goodness. Tomatoes provide lycopene, an antioxidant found in red fruit, along with vitamins A and C as well as carotene, and they are packed with dietary fibre.
Spoiled for choice There is a staggering array of shapes and sizes of tomatoes, from the hefty ‘Mortgage Lifter’ or ‘Ox Blood’ varieties which have fruit large enough to feed the entire family, to the tiny-fruited, self-sown cherry tomatoes that can spring up from the compost heap. To grow a trouble-free tomato, go for small-fruited forms. Cherry tomatoes are robust and rarely troubled by pests or diseases. They are particularly easy to grow where fruit fly is a problem as the small fruits are ignored by these pest insects. As well as the common red cherry tomatoes, there are also multi-coloured choices. Some have oval or pear-shaped fruit, including ‘Yellow Grape’ (oval, yellow fruit) and ‘Red Fig’ (pear-shaped, red fruit). ‘Black Cherry’ has round, black-toned tomatoes. There are also green, orange and pink varieties — plant a mix for a gourmet tomato salad. Popular mid-sized tomato varieties include ‘Grosse Lisse’ and ‘Apollo’, which are all delicious eaten fresh in salads or sliced on a sandwich. For cooking or sauces, grow egg tomato varieties including ‘Roma’ and ‘Amish Paste’. For something a little different try ‘Tigerella’, one of the most bountiful of all tomatoes. A single plant can produce up to 20kg of fruit. This variety has smallish, round fruit that ripens with striped tones of red and yellow.
Climate and planting In subtropical and tropical climates tomatoes can be planted and grown year-round, but in cool and temperate regions tomatoes grow best in the warmest parts of the year. Seeds can be sown from late winter onwards, but seedlings should not be planted out until the soil has begun to warm and all chance of frost has passed. If the weather does turn cold, cover plants overnight to protect them from frost. In warm temperate areas, tomatoes are planted from August onwards, but wait until October or November in cold climates. Make several plantings through spring and early summer to keep the fruit coming well into autumn. Space plants 45–60cm apart and, if growing tomatoes in rows, keep the rows 1m apart. Tomatoes are tall, vine-like plants that do best in a well-prepared garden bed. They need to be staked or trained on a trellis or tripod at least 2–3m high. In all but the hottest climates, tomatoes are grown in full sun. Light shade in hot climates reduces plant stress and avoids sun damage on the fruit. Tomatoes may stop flowering and fruiting when temperatures rise above 35°C but when the temperatures drop again, they’ll return to productivity.
Dwarf forms Although most varieties are tall growers, tomatoes are versatile, so there are options for those gardening in small spaces. Dwarf tomato varieties can be grown in containers and may even be grown without the need for a stake. These more compact forms may still produce medium to large fruit. Among the dwarf or patio forms, varieties to look out for include ‘Patio’, which reaches 60cm tall and has clusters of red fruit, and ‘Jade Beauty’, which reaches 70cm and has green fruit. ‘Tumbling Tom’ is a cascading tomato that can be grown in a hanging basket. There are both red and yellow fruiting forms.
Tomato label Common name: Tomato Botanical name: Solanum lycopersicum Family: Solonaceae Aspect and soil: Sun; moist soil Best climate: All Habit: Annual vine; fruits summer to autumn (year-round in warm zones) Propagation: Seed, seedling or grafted plants Difficulty: Moderate
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GROWING | Tomato
How to grow When tomatoes are grown on a stake, tripod or trellis, they are easy to tend. Left to their own devices, however, they sprawl in an untidy heap. Regular chores include watering, liquid feeding or applying regular side dressings of organic fertiliser, such as blood and bone, from when fruiting begins. Also watch for pests and other problems. As tomatoes grow, keep tying the growth to their support using a soft tie so as not to damage the stem. Tie below a leaf stalk or flower cluster. Excess growth can be removed by pinching out lateral shoots. As the plant reaches the top of the stake, it can be tip pruned. Also, remove the lower leaves so the vine isn’t in contact with the soil and keep the soil beneath tomatoes lightly mulched to reduce the chance of pests or diseases splashing up from the ground during watering. Once fruit is forming it’s vital that the plants don’t dry out. Water-stressed tomatoes fail to take up enough calcium from the soil and their fruit can be affected by blossom end rot, which causes brown, leathery patches to form at the base of the fruit.
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What is spinosad? Spinosad is a naturally occurring insecticide derived from soil-borne bacteria. It is used in many organic-friendly pesticides such as fruit-fly baits and tomato dust.
Troubleshooting One of the disasters that can occur with tomatoes is failure to control fruit fly. These pests, which are found in all parts of Australia except South Australia, Tasmania and Victoria, can ruin a crop of tomatoes. To protect tomatoes as they ripen, use baits containing spinosad (bacteria-derived insecticide) such as Eco Naturalure. DAC pots, which are pheromone traps that attract male fruit fly, are not enough by themselves to control this pest. Eco baits lure the female to feed on the bait before she lays eggs in the fruit. After feeding, however, she dies, so
Tomato | GROWING
the eggs are not laid. The baits are painted onto a stake or board near the plant rather than applied directly to foliage or fruit. Baits need to be protected from rain and water and reapplied regularly to remain effective. Other organic methods to control fruit fly include covering fruit clusters – before they ripen – with mesh or calico exclusion bags or covering the vines themselves with fine netting to exclude both insects and other pests such as birds. (See www.greenharvest. com.au for products.) If fruit fly continues to be a problem, harvest the fruit before it’s fully ripe and then ripen it indoors. Regular dusting with a tomato dust that only contains sulfur, copper and spinosad or food-grade diatomaceous earth, controls or reduces many of the other problems experienced when growing tomatoes.
Harvesting, storing and preserving Tomatoes can be eaten fresh or cooked. They may be bottled, dried or used to make sauces. Green tomatoes that fail to ripen in autumn make delicious chutney.
Tomatoes for Christmas One of the joys of growing fruit and vegetables at home is to produce them when they are rare or pricy in the shop. With tomatoes this means growing varieties that ripen in time for Christmas. To achieve this for next Christmas, select fastmaturing varieties and plant seedlings as soon as the weather begins to warm after winter. In frost-free areas this can be in late August, but in frosty zones wait until the frosts have passed. One of the fastest of all tomatoes is ‘Christmas Grapes’, a cherry variety with small fruit that bears in a mere seven weeks from planting.
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GROWING | Tomato Green Zebra
Big Rainbow
Beams Yellow Pear
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Golden Jubilee
Photos courtesy of The Diggers Club & Greenpatch Organic Seeds
Tomato | GROWING
Tomato Black & Red Tommy Toe
Black Cherry
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COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Tomato
Star ingredient: Tomato
Spicy Tomato Soup with Basil & Parmesan (Served with crispy garlic sourdough toast) Serves 4 as a summer dinner
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Ingredients
Method
• 1 heaped tbsp ghee • 2 onions, chopped • 1 leek, sliced • 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped • 2 tsp cumin • 3 tsp curry powder • 1kg truss tomatoes, chopped • 1L chicken stock • 6 curry leaves • Basil, shredded for garnish • Parmesan, shaved for garnish
1. Melt ghee and add onion, leek, garlic, cumin and curry powder. Sauté for three to five mins. 2. Add tomatoes and continue to sauté for five mins. Add chicken stock and curry leaves and leave to simmer for one hour on low heat. 3. Remove curry leaves and blend the mixture using robot mix or food processor. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 4. Serve with shredded basil, shaved parmesan and toasted garlic bread (organic brasserie sourdough).
Tomato | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON
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PRESERVING | Tomato
Star ingredient: Tomato
Preserving the Harvest Sundried Tomatoes (Plum tomatoes work well but all varieties can be used)
3. Put the tray in the centre of a 170–200°C preheated oven. Drying time will take up to 12 hours. Check them regularly. When they look kind of leathery and are no longer exuding any juice, they’re done. 4. Remove them from the baking sheet and let them cool completely on a wire rack. You can put them in a jar with a little olive oil and keep in the fridge for up to three weeks. Or you can seal them in any airtight container (don’t add olive oil) and store in the freezer for up to six months.
Method 1. Slice tomatoes in half lengthways. 2. Arrange them on a baking tray lined with parchment paper, as the tomatoes tend to stick, about 1.5–2cm apart. Sprinkle with coarse Himalayan rock salt, pepper and a tiny pinch of coconut sugar. If you have basil (or any other herb you like), sprinkle some on.
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Blueberry | GROWING
Blueberry (Vaccinium spp.) Words by horticulturist, Mark Dann
B
lueberries are well known for their contribution to the body’s immune system by supplying high antioxidant levels. With the added advantage of low pest and disease problems in the plant, they make a great addition to any home garden.
Planting For best results, select a site that has full sun most of the day. There’s a number of blueberry varieties available to the home gardener, but not all can be grown in warm or subtropical climates, so always check this with your nursery before buying plants. Many home gardeners have planted blueberries in the ground only to find the plants have died within six months. There are many contributing reasons for this. Low pH (blueberries need a pH of between 4.5 and 5.5), poor drainage and compacted soil conditions are likely causes. Blueberry plants thrive in an open soil mix that allows their fibrous root system to spread without matting together.
Considering the associated problems of growing in a garden bed, the best way for the home gardener to have control over any cultivating problems and achieve success is to grow blueberries in pots. The potting medium should be 50 per cent coarse pine bark (10mm–20mm in size) and 50 per cent a premium or certified organic potting mix (camellia/ azalea mix is good). Add a good-quality slow-release organic fertiliser to the potting medium and mix in well. This combination gives a nice, well-drained open mix with a pH in the correct range — ie slightly acidic. Always add a thin layer of organic mulch to the top of the pot to help protect fine feeder roots from the sun. You can buy a pH soil testing kit from any good garden centre to monitor soil pH around your blueberry plant. These are simple to use and ideal for checking soil pH over the whole of your garden. Without an open potting mix, all blueberry varieties
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GROWING | Blueberry
will only have a life of around two years in pots, but the correct mix will extend a plant’s life well beyond this.
Fertilising Use a certified organic slow-release fertiliser or manure such as composted cow manure every three months and add a good organic liquid fertiliser with added trace elements twice throughout the growing season. A good liquid foliar fertiliser, with a diluted liquid seaweed extract, every two weeks from the first sign of fruit will increase fruit size. As with all fruiting plants, feeding them correctly and maintaining good leaf health is very important to keep them free from disease and, in this case, will ensure a constant supply of delicious and nutritious blueberries.
Watering
Pruning
The potting mix needed for thriving blueberries is free-draining so in warm weather plants may need to be watered every two days. Avoid watering plants over their foliage (unless foliar fertilising) as to not promote conditions for fungal leaf diseases.
Depending on the variety, minor pruning may be required after year two to remove any non-fruitful older branches. Use sharp secateurs to simply prune out old woody twigs.
Pests and diseases All blueberry varieties are susceptible to fungal leaf diseases under high humidity and high rainfall conditions, particularly Blueberry Rust. Apply a good organic fungicide (try Eco-Fungicide) regularly. Don’t wait for leaf symptoms to occur before treating — protection is better than cure. Check for caterpillar damage on a regular basis and control when necessary. Try to identify if it is the caterpillar of a butterfly or moth before taking organic action, which is squashing with your fingers or under your boot. To ensure birds and other animals don’t rob you of your blueberry crop, cover the plant with white bird netting as soon as young berries appear on the bush.
New! Blueberry Burst® from PlantNet® • Australian-bred dwarf blueberry plant with large fruit — three times bigger fruit than current varieties available to the home gardener • Size of fruit and plant achieved by traditional plant-breeding methods — ie non-GM • Suitable for both hot and cold climates in Australia • Fruiting starts in July in hot climates; August in cold areas • Plant size: height 100cm, width 75cm • Best suited to pots or tubs • For stockists visit plantnet.com.au or ask at your local nursery or garden centre.
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Harvesting Harvesting is easy – look for the darkest purple fruit on the bush to pick. Most varieties will have a spread of harvest – some will have a delicious supply of fruit for three months or more. I always say blueberry harvest is really "taste and see".
Using Blueberries can be eaten fresh from the plant, frozen for future use and used in cakes, muffins and jams. The best way to freeze them, if you have room in your freezer, is to spread the berries in one layer in a large tray or shallow container. This way, they will freeze quickly and not be stuck together in a clump. When you want to use the fruit, it’s easy to remove only what you need without thawing the rest.
berries | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON
Star ingredient: Berries
Fruit Compote with Natural Yoghurt & Young Coconut Serves 1 for dessert or breakfast
Ingredients • 1 cup fresh or frozen organic blueberries (or mixed organic berries) • ½ tsp cinnamon • 2 tbsp natural yoghurt • 1 tbsp chopped fresh coconut flesh • 1 tsp shredded coconut (toasted)
Method 1. Place mixed berries and cinnamon in a saucepan and gently bring to a simmer. If using fresh fruit, add a tablespoon of water. 2. When the fruit has come to a simmer, remove from heat and let cool. 3. Serve warm or chilled with yoghurt and coconut flesh separately, or on top sprinkled with toasted coconut.
Jo’s tip The compote can be made ahead of time in bulk and stored in the fridge but if you find yourself short of time, use fresh mixed berries instead. Can be enjoyed as a breakfast or dessert treat and is delicious served with a natural organic yoghurt.
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Books | REVIEWS
Cover to cover Leafing through books for gardeners and cooks Butterflies: Identification and Life History Ross P. Field, Museum Victoria, RRP $29.95 This guide to butterflies is superb, not only because of the exquisite photography and detailed information but because it shows all stages of each butterfly’s metamorphosis. An entomologist and honorary associate of the Museum of Victoria, Ross is dedicated to documenting each life stage of every Victorian butterfly species. About 130 of the 400 known Australian species are found in Victoria but many exist in other states, so we can recommend it to all Australian nature lovers and gardeners who want to learn to identify the adult of this beneficial insect and, most importantly, the caterpillar (larva) and chrysalis (pupa). Get to know them, tolerate a few munched leaves and watch for the beautiful butterfly that will soon emerge.
Jackie French’s Guide to Companion Planting Jackie French, Manna Press, RRP $18.95 When prolific author, magazine writer and speaker Jackie French applies 40 years of gardening knowledge to the subject of companion planting, we pay close attention. This attractively packaged little book, with colour photos on almost every page, celebrates the hard work, serendipity and glorious messiness of companion planting for vegies, fruits and flowers. As one who has long practised mixing and matching in the garden, Jackie’s at her best debunking the myths with her typical no-nonsense wit. “Companion planting isn’t magic,” she writes, so don’t fall for the “true love myth” where “basil meets tomato and they live happily ever after. If basil and tomato are happy ever after, their relationship will be only one of the reasons.”
The Volks Garten: A Handbook for Gardening with Subtle-Energies Don Elwood, Balboa Press, RRP US $17.99 The title, Elwood explains, means “a garden for people”. But the subtitle is even more intriguing. What does he mean by “subtle energies”? Things such as light, colour, reiki, mana, crystals, magnets, cones, pyramids, cosmic energy and yantras. But he also talks about the usual kinds of gardening subjects: compost, manures, minerals, crop rotation etc. An ex-NASA aerospace engineer who believes in the power of prayer energy and celebrates the beginining of the Age of Aquarius (“1000 years of peace”), Elwood experimented with various gardening designs, techniques and strategies and wrote a series of small books. This book is the fascinating consolidation of all that.
Australian Native Plants: Cultivation, Use in Landscaping and Propagation John W. Wrigley & Murray Fagg, New Holland, RRP $99.95 This lavishly illustrated doorstopper has sold 20,000 copies since the first edition, in 1979, of what amounts to the life work of eminent horticulturist JW Wrigley and photographer/illustrator Murray Fagg. Covering all the subjects in the subtitle and more, it’s the definitive encyclopaedia and atlas of our increasingly popular natives, divided into ground covers, shrubs, trees etc, each classified according to its geographic suitability. Additional chapters address, with equal thoroughness, the subjects of plant management, pests and diseases and so on. When it comes to native gardens, it’s your one-stop doorstopper.
Simply Good Food Neil Perry, Murdoch Books, $49.99 If you’ve dined in Neil Perry’s award-winning restaurants you’ll know it’s as much about the produce and its provenance as it is about fancy cooking. Neil urges readers to eat simple, healthy, fresh, seasonal food, to “look to animals that have been humanely raised” and to buy Australian seafood. In this, his eighth cookbook, he offers 108 recipes, many mined from his weekly column in The Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Weekend supplement, with some dishes grouped into Mediterranean Shared Tables, Asian Banquets and Mexican Feasts and the rest categorised by meat type or by soups, salads, pasta and sweet things. True to the title, this is not tricked-up restaurant-type food but simple, flavoursome dishes based on the best produce you can afford — or grow.
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WHAT’S NEW | Products
pick of the crop Our selection of products and services for gardeners and cooks
WOTNOT travel case refill This handy soft pack of wipes, perfect as a refill for the WOTNOT Travel Case, also has a great deal of uses throughout the home and garden. The award-winning WOTNOT Travel Wipes are so convenient you’ll want to keep a pack in the car, office, schoolbag, backpack, handbag, sports bag, sailing bag, nappy bag, with the camping gear, in the garden shed — even in the workshop. Whatever you are into, these wipes are too. No synthetic chemicals, no artificial fragrances or preservatives, no alcohol and no chlorine, just a 100 per cent, all-natural, non-irritating cleansing blend on a biodegradable and compostable soft wipe. Gentle for you, the whole family and the environment. SIZE 20 wipes per pack, 19×21cm each. RRP $2.95. wotnot.com.au
A juicing revolution Join Kuvings in the juicing revolution with the Kuvings Cold Press Silent Juicer. Juice your way to good health and increase your energy levels with fresh fruit juice. Enjoy vegetable juice and regenerate the cells in your body. The Kuvings Silent Juicer presses and squeezes fruit and vegetables rather than grinds and chews, like a traditional juicer, naturally preserving the nutritional value, taste, flavours and smells. No separation and oxidisation of citrus juices and more juice from your fruit and vegetables. International Gold Award winner for its style, quietness, ease of cleaning and nutritional value. Kuvings offers a 20-year warranty on the motor and five-year warranty on the parts and labour. Visit the website or call 02 9798 0586 for further information. kuvings.net.au
96 | Good Organic Gardening
Healthy organic growing from root to fruit! Remember the good old days when a tomato actually tasted so good it didn’t even need pepper and salt and from the first delicious munch, you were reaching for a serviette to catch the sweet juice running down your chin? Those days are back, thanks to Dr Grow It All. This Queenslandmade ACO-certified product is a unique, balanced organic liquid plant nutrient and soil rejuvenator in one. This pH-neutral growing solution, containing biological compounds, rich carbon and billions of beneficial plant-acceptable bacteria, promotes bio-stimulation for exceptional growth with the added benefit of replenishing the soil with every use. It can be foliar sprayed or delivered directly to the root zone and is fast becoming the preferred nutrient choice for both the home gardener and commercial grower alike, with outstanding results. Available from good produce stores, nurseries, health-food stores, landscape gardeners and hardware stores, and now in WA. Retail sizes from 1, 2.5, 10 & 20-litre drums. Also available in commercial quantities. drgrowitall.com.au
The good oil TassieGold Golden Flaxseed Oil is another trusted flaxseed oil from Stoney Creek. Cold-pressed from Tasmanian-grown golden flaxseeds at less than 40°C, nutty-tasting TassieGold is a rich source of omega-3 (60 per cent as ALA) and is now available in a 500mL value pack (BPA-free). This fresh, premium-quality flaxseed oil can be used in as many ways as your imagination allows: dip with crusty bread, mix in fruit smoothies, combine with low-fat quark (or cottage cheese) as a Budwig mixture, add to salad dressings or simply drizzle over rice, pasta or steamed vegetables just before serving. RRP $19.50. stoneycreekoil.com.au
Products | WHAT’S NEW
Ferment your everything Making your own ferments such as sauerkraut is a delicious way to add essential minerals and beneficial microbes to your diet. But did you know it’s not just cabbage that you can “kraut�? Many other leafy greens and root vegetables can be turned into tasty ferments in your kitchen with simple tools and salt via the natural process of lacto-fermentation. Coming up in February, Sandor Katz, the author of The Art of Fermentation, will be visiting Australia to teach and inspire new fermentation journeys in home kitchens across the nation. Sandor will be covering everything from vegetable ferments to kefirs and country wines, as well as milk ferments, tempeh, sourdough and more. The Art of Fermentation with Sandor Katz Australian Tour will visit Brisbane, Byron Bay, Sydney, Melbourne and Hobart in February, 2014. Milkwood.net
Hand ‘n’ Hoe Organic Macadamia Farm
Miessence Certified Organic Garnet Exfoliant
Hidden in a remote, pristine rainforest on the Comboyne plateau on the mid-north coast of NSW is a remarkable certified-organic macadamia farm aptly named Hand ‘n’ Hoe. As well as whole and half unsalted macadamia kernels, this family business produces a range of macadamia butters in natural crunchy, roasted crunchy, natural smooth and crunchy smooth. The company also makes extra-virgin macadamia oil. Value adding has been one of the farm’s most rewarding and exciting progressions, with honey-roasted macadamias and chocolate-coated whole macadamias in white, milk or dark seeing great success. There’s also a range of organic honey and shortbread on the way. The farm, its products and processing are all Australian Certified Organic registered. (02) 6550 5180, fli64@reachnet.com.au
Behold your new favourite exfoliant! Polished alluvial garnet works effectively to clear congestion resulting from a buildup of dead, dry skin cells. An amazing scrub, with a fresh citrus blend of organic lemon, bergamot and orange. Unlike nut and seedbased exfoliants with their rough edges and uneven size, polished alluvial garnet does not abrade the skin. Gentle enough for use several times a week for normal/oily skin. Combine it with any Miessence Certified Organic Facial Cleanser in the shower for very effective makeup removal. To avoid spreading infection, don’t exfoliate blemished skin. edenspa.miessence.com
KEY Direct sowing Transplant
=D =T
Air Temperature Celsius Range starts with minimum to maximum temperatures. Used as a guide to when sowing can commence.
Germination Time Approximate time in days for the seeds to emerge.
Sowing Depth In Millimetres mm and Centimetres cm
Climate Zones Sowing times are represented by WKH ÀUVW OHWWHU RI HDFK PRQWK
Disclaimer: This chart is to be used as a guide only, as there are many climatic variables. Consideration must be given to your own particular area and seasonal variations in temperature, rainfall and soil type.
MAMJJA SONDJ SONDJFM NDJ MAMJJASO NDJF MAMJJASO SONDJFMA MAMJJA NDJ JFMAMJJAS NDJ SONDJFM FMAMJJAS MAMJJASON MAMJJASO MAMJJASON NDJ MAMJJASO MAMJJA NDJ NDJ NDJ NDJ MAMJJASON OND SONDJFM ND ASONDJFM MAMJJA MAMJJASON MAMJJASON FMAMJJAS NDJ MAMJJASON MAMJJASON MAMJJASON NDJ FMAMJJA NDJ ASONDJFM NDJ MAMJJAS FMAMJJAS MAMJJASON SOND MAMJJASO MAMJJAS MAMJJASO ND FMAMJJA NDJ
MJJA AMJ MJJ JFMAMJJASOND MAMJJASO AMJJAS AMJJAS AMJ AMJJA AMJJA JFMAMJJASOND MJJ AMJJA MJJASON MJJ MJJ MAMJJASO MAMJJASO AMJJA MJJ MJJAS JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND MAMJJASO MAMJJASO MJJA MJJAS AMJJASO AMJJASOND MJJA MJJA AMJJ MJJ AMJJAS MJJ AMJJASOND AMJJAS MJJ MJJ AMJJ MAMJJ AMJJASON AMJJASO AMJJASO MJJ MJJ AMJJASON MJJ AMJJASON AMJJA AMJJASON MJJA MAMJJASON MJJA AMJJA MJJ MAMJJASON AMJJ MAMJJASO AMJJAS MJJ AMJJASO MJ MJJ AMJJAS AMJJA MJJ AMJJASON AMJJASON AMJJASON AMJJASON AMJJA ASO AMJJAS AMJJASO AMJJAS AMJJASO MJJ AMJJAS AMJJASO AMJJ AMJJASON AMJJAS AMJJA MJJ MAMJJASON MAMJJASON MJJ MAMJJASO AMJJA MAMJJASON MJJ MJJ AMJJASO AMJJASO MJJ MJJA MJJ AMJJASON MJJ AMJJASO
GREENPATCH ORGANIC SEEDS EST. 1993 4 3 &S\ 8EVII 27; ˆ 4L *E\ [[[ KVIIRTEXGLWIIHW GSQ EY ˆ IRUYMVMIW$KVIIRTEXGLWIIHW GSQ EY
CLIMATE ZONES
.
Weed Control Plants
Darwin
.
Cairns
.
Alice Springs
. .
Perth
.
..
Adelaide
.
Brisbane
%HDQV %XFNZKHDW &KRNR &RPIUH\ &RZSHD &XFXPEHU *RXUGV /DE /DE /XSLQ 0HORQV 0XQJEHDQ 0XVWDUG 1DVWXUWLXP 3XPSNLQ 5DGLVK 6R\EHDQ 6XQĂ RZHU 6ZHHW 3RWDWR 9HWFK
Sydney
Canberra
Melbourne
.
Hobart
Insect Repellent Plants PLANT INSECT Basil........................)OLHV $SKLGV )UXLW )O\ Catmint................%HHWOHV $QWV Garlic.....................$SKLGV 0LWHV &DWHUSLOODUV 6QDLOV Marigold ...............1HPDWRGHV %HHWOHV + RWKHUV Nasturtium.........$SKLGV Penny Royal ........$QWV )OHDV 0RVTXLWRHV 0RWKV Pyrethrum ..........$SKLGV 0RWKV &DWHUSLOODUV Rosemary ............0RWKV 0RVTXLWRHV Rue .........................)OHDV $QWV )OLHV Sage........................0RWKV 7LFNV Southern Wood .......0RWKV 0RVTXLWRHV, )UXLW )O\ Tansy......................$QWV )UXLW )O\ )OHDV $SKLGV Wormwood ........$QLPDOV 9DULRXV LQVHFWV
GREENPATCH ORGANIC SEEDS EST. 1993
Neville Patrick Donovan
Strawberry 7YRžS[IV Tansy Thyme Tomato
Apple Apricot Asparagus Basil Beans - Bush Beans - Climbing Beetroot Borage Broad Bean Broccoli Capsicum Carrot Celery Chamomile Chives Coriander Corn Cowpea Cucumber Dill Eggplant Fennel Fruit Trees Garlic Hyssop Lavender Leek Lemon Balm Lettuce Lucerne Marigold Marjoram Mint Mustard Nasturtium Onion Parsley Parsnip Peas Potato Radish Rhubarb Roses Rosemary Rue Sage Shallots Southernwood Spinach Squash Strawberry 7YRžS[IV Tansy Thyme Tomato Turnip Vetch Watermelon Wormwood Zucchini
3 2 %R[ 7DUHH 16: ‡ 3K )D[ ‡ ZZZ JUHHQSDWFKVHHGV FRP DX ‡ HQTXLULHV#JUHHQSDWFKVHHGV FRP DX
First printed 2008 Reprinted 2013
Š Copyright 2013
Turnip Watermelon Wormwood Yarrow Zucchini
Radish Rhubarb Roses Rosemary Rue
Plant
Sage Shallots Southernwood Spinach Squash
7 7 28 14 7 21 7 7 14 7 7 7 7 14 7 7 7 7 7 21 14 14 14 7 14 14 7 14 7 14 7 14 14 14 14 14 7 14 14 7 7 14 21 14 14 21 7 14 7 7 7 14 14 7 14 7 7 7 14 14 7 7 7 7 14 7 7 7 14 7 7 7 7 14 7 14 14 14 14 14 21 21 7 7 7 14 7 7 7 7 7 14 14 7 14 21 7 14 7 7 14 14 14 14 7 7 7 7 14 7 7 14 7 14 7 7 7 7 7 7
Parsnip Peas Potato Pumpkin Pyrethrum
10-30 20-35 5-25 10-30 10-30 10-30 15-30 5-25 15-35 15-35 10-30 5-25 5-25 5-25 5-30 5-30 10-30 5-30 10-30 20-35 15-30 10-30 15-30 10-30 10-25 10-25 20-35 5-25 5-25 15-35 5-25 5-25 15-35 15-35 15-30 10-30 10-30 15-35 15-35 15-35 15-35 15-35 10-30 10-30 10-30 20-35 5-25 5-25 5-30 10-25 10-30 10-30 5-25 15-35 5-25 10-30 5-25 5-25 5-25 10-35 10-30 15-35 5-30 5-25 10-25 20-35 5-25 15-35 10-30 15-35 5-25 15-35 5-25 10-30 5-25 20-35 10-30 15-35 10-30 10-30 10-30 10-25 10-25 20-35 10-25 5-25 15-35 15-35 15-35 15-35 10-25 15-30 10-30 20-35 10-30 20-35 5-25 10-30 10-30 10-30 20-35 10-30 10-30 10-30 15-35 15-35 10-25 20-35 10-30 20-35 5-25 5-25 10-30 15-35 5-25 5-25 5-25 20-35 5-25 20-35
Mustard Nasturtium Nettle Onion Parsley
Air Temperature Germination Time - Days Celsius
Garlic Hyssop Lavender Leek Lemon Balm
5mm 5mm 8mm 3mm 8mm 8mm 5mm 1cm 3mm 3cm 1cm 5mm 8mm 3cm 5mm 5mm 1cm 5mm 8mm 5mm 5mm 5mm 3mm 5mm 3mm 3mm 3mm 3mm 5mm 3mm 2cm 5mm 3mm 5mm 5mm 5mm 8mm 2cm 1cm 1cm 1cm 5mm 3mm 5mm 5mm 5mm 5mm 3mm 5mm 8MM 3mm 5mm 3mm 1cm 5mm 3mm 3mm 3mm 5mm 5mm 3mm 1cm 3mm 5mm 5mm 1cm 1cm 5mm 3mm 8mm 5mm 1cm 5mm 1cm 1cm 1cm 5mm 8mm 3mm 3mm 5mm 8mm 2cm 3mm 3mm 3mm 3mm 1cm 3mm 5mm 8mm 1cm 1cm 1cm 5mm 8mm 1cm 5mm 5mm 8mm 5mm 5mm 5mm 1cm 1cm 2cm 1cm 1cm 3mm 1cm 5mm 1cm 3mm 5mm 5mm 1cm 3mm 1cm 1cm 1cm
Lemon Grass Lettuce Marigold Marjoram Mint
D D T T DT DT D D T D D DT D D T T D T DT T T D T T T T T DT DT T D DT T T T T D D D D D T D D T T DT D D D T T T D T T T D T T T D T D D D D DT T D DT D DT D D D DT D T T DT D D T DT T T D DT D D D T D T T D DT D D D DT T DT D D D D T D D D T T D D T D D D
Corn Cowpea Cucumber Dill Eggplant
Direct or Sowing Transplant Depth
Elderberry Fennel Feverfew Foxglove Fruit Trees
AMJJA JFMAMJJASOND MJJA AMJJA AMJJ AMJJAS JFMAMJJASOND MJJ JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND AMJJA AMJJ AMJJA MJJ AMJJ
Carraway Carrot Catnip 'EYPMžS[IV Celery
TROPICAL
ASONDJFMA ASONDJFM AMJJAS MAMJJAS MAMJJA ASONDJFM SONDJFM AMJJ ASONDJFM ASONDJFM AMJJASO AMJJA AMJJA MJJA MAMJJ MAMJ MAMJJA MAMJJA AMJJAS ASONDJ ASONDJF AMJJASO AMJJASO AMJ AMJJAS AMJJA SONDJF MJJA AMJJA SONDJ AMJJ AMJJA ASONDJFM ASONDJFM MAMJJASO AMJJA MAMJJASO SONDJF SONDJFM ASONDJF SONDJFM ASONDJ AMJJAS AMJJASO ASONDJF ASOND AMJJA AMJJA AMJJA AMJJ AMJJASO AMJJ AMJJA SONDJF MAMJJA AMJJASO AMJJA MAMJJA AMJJ FMAMJJ AMJJASON SONDJF AMJJASON MJJ AMJJA SONDJ AMJJ ASONDJFM AMJJASO SONDJFM AMJJA SONDJFM AMJJA AMJJASO AMJJ SONDJ JFMAMJJ ONDJF MAMJJASO AMJJ AMJJASON AMJJ AMJJA ASONDJ AMJJAS AMJJ SONDJF ASONDJF SONDJF SONDJF AMJJAS SOND MAMJJASON SONDJ AMJJASON SOND AMJJ MAMJJASO MAMJJASO MAMJJAS ONDJF MAMJJASO MAMJJASO MAMJJA ONDJF SONDJ AMJJ SONDJFM MAMJJASO SONDJFM AMJJA AMJJ MAMJJASON JASONDJF AMJJAS AMJJA AMJJ SONDJ AMJJ ASONDJF
Chamomile Chervil Chives Clover Coriander
SUB-TROPICAL
ASONDJFMA SONDJF AMJJAS MAMJJASO MAMJJASO SONDJFM ONDJF AMJJA SONDJF SONDJF MAMJJASO MAMJJA AMJJAS AMJJA MAMJJA MAMJJ FMAASO MAMJJAS MAMJJAS SOND ASONDJ MAMJJASO MAMJJASO MAMJJ MAMJJASO MAMJJASO ONDJ AMJJAS AMJJAS SOND MAMJJ MAMJJAS ASONDJFM ASONDJFM MAMJJASO MAMJJAS MAMJJASO ONDJ ONDJF SONDJ ONDJF SONDJ MAMJJASO MAMJJASO ASONDJ SOND AMJJAS AMJJAS AMJJAS AMJJA MAMJJASO AMJJA AMJJAS ONDJ MAMJJA MAMJJASON MAMJJAS MAMJJAS MAMJJ JFMAMJJA ASONDJFM ONDJF MAMJJASON AMJJ AMJJA ONDJ AMJJ ASONDJ MAMJJASON ONDJF AMJJA ONDJFM AMJJA AMJJASO AMJJA ONDJ JFMAMJJ ONDJ ASONDJFMA MAMJJ MAMJJASON MAMJJ AMJJAS SOND AMJJAS MAMJJA ONDJ SONDJF ONDJF ONDJF MAMJJASO OND MAMJJASON OND AMJJASON OND MAMJJ MAMJJASO MAMJJASON MAMJJAS NDJF MAMJJASO MAMJJASO MAMJJAS NDJF ONDJ AMJJA ONDJ MAMJJASO ONDJF MAMJJAS MAMJJ MAMJJASON ASONDJ MAMJJAS MAMJJA MAMJJAS OND MAMJJA ONDJ
Broccoli Brussel Sprouts Cabbage Calendula Capsicum
TEMPERATE
Apple Apricot Asparagus Basil Beans - Bush
COLD SONDJFM NDJ SONDJFM SONDJFM SONDJFM ONDJ NDJF MAMJJAS ONDJ ONDJ MAMJJASON MAMJJAS MAMJJAS MAMJJAS JFMAMJJASO JFMAMJJASO ONDJFM JFMAMJJASO MAMJJAS OND SONDJ SONDJFMA SONDJFM JFMAMJJASO JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND NDJ FMAMJJASO MAMJJASO NDJ AMJJAS MAMJJASO SONDJFM SONDJFM SONDJFM SONDJFM ASONDJFMA NDJ NDJ NDJ NDJ NDJ MAMJJASON MAMJJASON SONDJ ND MAMJJAS MAMJJAS MAMJJAS MAMJJAS MAMJJASON MAMJJAS MAMJJASO NDJ MAMJJASO MAMJJASON MAMJJASO MAMJJASO MAMJJAS JFMAMJJASO SONDJFM NDJ MAMJJASON MAMJJA MAMJJAS
Beans - Climbing Beetroot Bok Choy Borage Broad Bean
SEEDS Alfalfa/Lucerne Amaranthus Angelica Anise Hyssop Artichoke Asparagus Balsam Barley Basil Bean Beetroot Bok Choy Borage Broad Beans Broccoli Brussel Sprouts Buckwheat Cabbage Calendula Capsicum Carraway Carrots Catnip &DXOLĂ RZHU Celeriac Celery Celosia Chamomile Chervil Chia Chickpea Chickory Chives Chives - Garlic Chrysanthemum Coreopsis Coriander Corn Cosmos Cowpea Cucumber Dahlia Dandelion Dill Echinacea Eggplant Endive Evening Primrose Fennel Fenugreek Feverfew Forget-me-not Foxglove Gourd Hollyhock Hyssop Kale Kohlrabi Larkspur Leek Lemon-Balm Lentil Lettuce Linseed Love in a Mist Luffa Lupin Marigold Marjoram Millet Mizuna Mung Bean Mustard Nasturtium Oats Okra Onion Orach Oregano Pansy Parsley Parsnip Pea Petunia Plantain Poppy Portulaca Pumpkin Purslane Quinoa Radish Rice Rhubarb Rockmelon Rue Rosella Rye Corn Salad Burnet Salad Rocket Salsify Sesame Shallots Sage Spinach Sorghum Soybean Spelt Wheat Squash 6WUDZĂ RZHU 6XQĂ RZHU Swede Sweetpea Thyme Tomato Turnip Vetch Watercress Watermelon Wheat Zucchini
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The Greenpatch Organic Seeds Companion Planting Guide new edition is a full-colour wall chart that’s a quick and handy reference for a variety of vegetables, herbs, flowers and what can be happily planted together. Size: 600×450mm. The Sow When Chart new edition is a full-colour chart with four climate zones, sowing depth, air temperature germination and planting times for vegetables, flowers and herbs. Size: 600×450mm. 02 6551 4240, greenpatchseeds. com.au, facebook.com/greenpatchseeds
COMPANION PLANTING GUIDE
SOW WHEN CHART
Know what and when to plant
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Good Organic Gardening | 97
WHAT’S NEW | PRODUCTS BIO Mineral Ace Pot
Lessening landfill Out of the waste that goes to landfill, 62 per cent is compostable. This waste buried in landfills produces methane, a gas that’s is 25 times worse for global warming than CO2. Some benefits of composting are: • Compost is great for your garden, improving it, keeping it moist and making plants more resistant to pests and diseases. • Composting helps you save money, allowing you to select a smaller council rubbish bin and pay less for your waste-collection service. This helps council reduce its carbon emission liability and keep rate rises in check. It reduces the need for water and for buying fertilisers, soil improvers and potting mixes. • Composting is good for the environment, saving journeys to the waste-transfer station, helping to reduce waste and the need for new landfills and cutting greenhouse gases from landfill sites. Compostinghome.com.au helps home composters with steps on how to compost, including tips on what to do and not to do. There is also the largest range of composting products from Australia and around the world. compostinghome.com.au
The BIO Mineral Ace Pot is a great portable solution for providing naturally alkalised mineral water on the go at work or when travelling, exercising or on holidays. Composed of organic compounds, the BMP Ace removes at least 85–90 per cent of fluoride, residual chloride, dirt, heavy metals, viruses, bacteria and nitrates. This is done using an iodine-rich seaweed resin and activated coconut shell carbon-bonded with activated silver. After impurities are removed, water passes through its next stages of mineralisation. Calcium-rich coral and silica sand naturally alkalise water molecules while adding 60 organic trace minerals. The BMP Ace also contains magnets to structure the water molecules and assists with water ionisation. Turning complexity into simplicity, this product is made from BPA-free perspex and has a long-lasting two-year filter life at six litres a day. For just 2¢ a litre, enjoy clean, healthy drinking water as nature intended. livingconscious.com.au
Great news! Biofilm clingwrap will be available any day now. The clean, fresh packaging reflects the advantages of this great product. No more struggling with metal cutters that injure your fingers. The Biofilm pinch-and-tear feature means that all you need to do is pinch the edge of the film and it will tear straight across. It clings very well to ceramic plates and cups and to itself. It’s breathable, meaning food will keep fresh in the fridge for much longer. And it breaks down in compost with fruit and vegetables without leaving a trace. biobaganz.com.au
98 | Good Organic Gardening
A haven of peace, tranquility and organic goodness! If you love nature and being sustainable, or maybe you are a writer or artist seeking inspiration, this wonderful rural retreat offers you all this and more. The Nature’s Wonderland Sanctuary, nestled among 360 degrees of hills, is surrounded by magical views. Spend some time in the peaceful surrounds of nature, far from the hustle and bustle of city smog and noise. Offering top-class refinements, the decor of the rooms astounds. Relax in the outdoor sauna, spend time in the dojo/ gymnasium or simply lounge on the private decks enjoying your selection of the best natural foods and delicacies, available fresh from the in-house permaculture garden. Prepare your own raw, vegetarian or vegan meals in the well-fitted kitchen — cold-press juicers, blenders, dehydrators etc are all available for your use. 1800 044 722, natureswonderland.com.au
Complied by Kerry Boyne
Nature’s Wonderland Retreat Unique pinch and tear makes dispensing easy
Products | WHAT’S NEW
Spray it! The GARDENA Premium Metal Spray Gun nozzle is highly robust thanks to its metal components. And yet it also sits comfortably in the hand due to the non-slip, soft plastic components. The water jet is infinitely adjustable: from hard jet to fine mist. The robust nozzle sleeve surrounds the body and is both elegant and functional. With this design, the GARDENA Premium Metal Spray Gun Nozzle can be used for cleaning with the hard jet or for watering with the fine mist. Depending on the requirement, the waterflow rate can be fully adjusted on the nozzle. The lock allows convenient, continuous watering. husqvarnagroup.com
Premium organic plant nutrition
Organic Fertilisers
Dinofert puts life back into your soil and provides a buffet of nutrients for plants. Dinofert fertilisers are brought to you by the original inventors of pelletised poultry manure, a team with over 40 years’ experience in providing quality organic and organicbased, slow-release fertilisers for the home garden, agricultural and horticultural markets. Each organic poultry manure pellet is packed with soil-enriching goodness such as beneficial soil bacteria, yeast, humus, amino acids and all the nutrients essential for plant growth. • Natural slow-release fertilisers. • Include major and minor trace elements. • Promote microbial and earthworm activity. • Increase soil organic matter. • Increase soil structure and water-holding capacity. dinofert.com.au
Organic Fertilisers, situated 40km south-west of Sydney near the small township of Bringelly, began operation in the mid-‘60s, cleaning out poultry farms and running a dairy operation milking 1800 cows daily. It is now one of the biggest companies in the Sydney metro area, cleaning poultry sheds for large commercial farms. All the poultry manure collected is either sold direct to the agricultural industry or brought back to the yard where it is composted down, going through a heating process to comply with certification standards to cater to Certified Organic customers. The company recently developed a low-odour product for customers in the Sydney metro area, including golf courses, sporting ovals, councils and racetracks. It also makes up blends using the low-odour poultry manure with composted sand from the dairy and cow manure. 02 4773 4291
Community First Credit Union The largest communitybased credit union in the Sydney and Central Coast region of NSW, Community First is one of the most ethical accounts to keep your hard-earned cash in. Community First offers green car loans with a 4-, 4.5- or 5-star rating as per the Green Vehicle Guide, and personal loans to people for ecopurposes such as solar panels, double-glazing windows and many more. According to research conducted by independent Financial Services Research Group Canstar, compared to the Big Four Banks, Community First provided added value of $2.8 million to its members on a range of benchmarks based on rate, fees and transactions. As a mutual organisation, Community First is not required to make large profits to pay dividends on shares. Community First members are also eligible for the Australian Government Deposit Guarantee. communityfirst.com.au
Stand up straight with EziMate! EziMate is a multifunctional, innovative handle designed to give the user dramatic labour-saving and safety benefits. Its assembly easily attaches to long-handled equipment with applications spanning household, gardening, commercial, leisure and sporting activities. It achieves a posture that’s less stressful on the back by altering the pivot point where the hand meets the tool. This improves leverage, reduces unnecessary bending and can double your productivity, dramatically reducing backache and effort. Chiropractors tout the benefits of using an EziMate as providing immediate results for the user. It’s a great aid for those with disabilities, arthritis, back injury etc. EziMate handles comfortably and securely, is built to withstand heavy work and punishment and made to outlast the equipment to which it attaches. Using stainless-steel fittings, all EziMates are supplied with a bonus built-in Allen key and are available in eight appealing colours. ezimate.com.au
Good Organic Gardening | 99
WHAT’S NEW | PRODUCTS Water only when needed with the Toro Precision Soil Sensor
Summer on the farm “Summer is always a challenge here at the Organigrow farm. During hot days, I run sprinklers on the roofs of the chook shelters — it does give the homebodies some relief and keeps the eggs in the nest boxes cooler — but, mostly, my feathered friends are escaping the scorching sun by hanging out in the dense shade of the forest, scratching through the deep mulch for titbits to give their eggs that extra bit of vitality. In the early morning and evening, they are out in the paddock, topping up with fresh herbs and grasses before returning to their cosy eco-shelters. As the wet season approaches, showers increase and now the fresh woodchip and mulch in the home runs not only keep the hens endlessly occupied scratching contentedly but keep the mud at bay also. I trade a truckload of woodchip from a local arborist for a slab of ale — love the beer economy! New chicks are arriving soon, so I’d better go and check the brooders are in order and ready to keep them cosy”. organigrow.yolasite.com
Fleming’s Nurseries F2 Fruit® ‘Sugar N Spice’ (PBR) The ever-growing F2 Fruit range of new-generation fruit trees welcomes its latest addition, ‘Sugar N Spice’ (PBR). A cross between a nectarine and a plum, ‘Sugar N Spice’ (PBR) features more of the nectarine characteristics and is beautifully balanced by the plum sweetness. This delightfully crisp yet sweet fruit has pale green-to-white flesh. The tree features unique purple foliage that matures to green. This feature alone makes it a striking addition to any garden. The perfect companion to F2 ‘Spicezee’, this fruit also has a slightly rustic skin and will ripen very sweet in January and early February. Both ‘Spicezee’ and ‘Sugar N Spice’ (PBR) are beautifully refreshing fruits with sweet flavour and crunchy flesh ... also great in summer salads. flemings.com.au
100 | Good Organic Gardening
The Toro Precision Soil Sensor reduces water waste by measuring moisture levels in your soil and determining when to allow your controller to water. “We’ve taken the same technology found at professional golf courses and sports fields and created a sensor intended for residential use,” says Ben Hall of Toro Australia. The Precision Soil Sensor is a two-part system that includes a battery-powered sensor and a receiver connected to your irrigation controller. Communication between the sensor and receiver is wireless, with up to 152m line-of-sight range. It’s very easy to install and no digging is required. First, connect the receiver to the controller, then find a representative area of your property for the sensor. Push the sensor probe in the ground and it will automatically calibrate itself to your soil type and begin communicating wirelessly with the receiver. toro.com.au
Preserve food naturally Dehydrating food is the world’s oldest method of natural food preservation. Now, drying food is easy due to the efficient and reliable Ezidri range of dehydrators allowing all types of food to be dried at home. Dehydrating intensifies the aroma and taste of food, transforming it into the perfect ingredient for enhancing the flavour of your favourite snacks and dishes. Not only does dehydrated food taste great, it’s good for you too. By drying food with an Ezidri, you retain over 96 per cent of the food’s original nutrients. Drying at the correct temperature also does not destroy valuable enzymes that are the very essence of raw food, and there is no need for preservatives. And, by buying your produce in season or using your own surplus fruit and vegetables, you can save money and avoid waste. 1800 671 109, eziconcepts.com.au
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Specialising in a unique multi-disciplined approach to enhancing your energy, personal health & professional performance. Go to our website for a FREE chapter of Jo’s book ‘Rocket Fuel on a Budget’. Join us at one of our nutrition and cooking demonstrations or retreats, see website for details or connect with us at the Energy Coaching Institute on Facebook for regular updates, and health and wellness tips.
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(Leppington) Pty Ltd ABN 36 001 123 726
1675 The Northern Road Bringelly NSW 2556 Phone: (02) 4773 4291 Fax: (02) 4773 4104 Email: sales@lpcmilk.com
Suppliers of certified poultry and cow manures. Fresh or composted delivered in bulk. Great for all types of agriculture industries. Poultry manure which can be spread in residential areas, golf courses, sporting ovals and parks. Also ask us about our reduced low odour.
Member M b off A Australian t li O Organic i A Association i ti
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Organic
NUTRITIOUS & DELICIOUS EGGS!
EGGS
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100% Organic (BFA Certified) Pelletised poultry manure. Ideal for application in close suburban backyards, balconies, pots & plants.
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100% Organic (BFA Certified) All purpose fertiliser Adds essential organic matter to replenish soil structure.
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100% Organic (BFA Certified) Contains composted poultry manure, cow manure, Blood & bone, fish meal, seaweed extract, & zeolite Slow release so it lasts longer and does not burn plants
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AVAILABLE AT YOUR LOCAL PRODUCE MERCHANT & ALL LEADING GARDEN RETAILERS
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h9OUR NEW (AWK "IRD 3CARER REPLACES THE OLD FASHIONED 3CARE #ROWv /RDER NOW YOU WILL RECEIVE A &REE 0AGE "OOKLET ON "IRD 3CARING 4ECHNIQUES (AWKS ARE JUST EACH FROM 4ISARA !UST 0TY ,TD 3WAN 3TREET
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Organic Self-Reliant Sustainable Gardening IniƟaƟve for any Space. Produce GROWS faster convenƟthan methodosnal
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Directory Fresh, environmentally friendly organic food... the way nature intended. We have a fantastic range of quality marke market fresh fruit & vegetables, groceries, dairy, bread, meat, chicken, bulk nuts, dried fruit and more.
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SOUTH COAST ORGANIC FERTILISERS
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Suppliers of a large range of natural products for poultry including Diatomaceous Earth, Garlic, Kelp, Apple Cider Vinegar & Molodri. Ph: 0437 542 422 www.planetpoultry.com.au
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Australia’s No.1 Supplier of Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth
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Preserve Naturally Preserving fresh fruit and vegetables... naturally.
Vacuum packaging made easy!
Drying is one of the oldest methods for preserving food – people have been drying food naturally for thousands of years.
The Ezivac prolongs the freshness of foods for 3 to 5 times as long.
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For more information or stockists details Freecall 1800 671 109 or visit www.eziconcepts.com.au
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