Issue#5.2 - 2014 by Good Organic Gardening

grow naturally, eat fresh, live sustainably JULY/AUGUST

Garden to table GROW, HARVEST, PRESERVE, COOK: ENGLISH SPINACH, RADICCHIO, RHUBARB & SWEET POTATO

CLAIRE BICKLE

GOOD ORGANIC FERTILISING OPTIONS

CHLOE THOMSON BRILLIANT BRASSICAS

JOANNA RUSHTON

SCRUMPTIOUS RECIPES FROM THE ORGANIC CHEF

JENNIFER STACKHOUSE

Vol. 5 No. 2 July/August 2014 AUS $7.95* NZ $8.90 (Both incl. GST)

PLUS: STRAW-BALE GARDENING — IT’S EASY! SAVORY: DISCOVER ITS MANY USES CHOOKS AS CHILDREN’S PETS BECOMING A WWOOFER

WHAT TO DO IN THE WINTER GARDEN

CLEVER CROPS CALENDULA & MEDLAR

TIME TO PLANT KIWIFRUIT & SWEETCORN

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CONTENTS

Contents

20 Family Heirloom Chloe Thomson tells about members of the brassica family, plus how to make health-giving sauerkraut

40 Time to Plant Tangy kiwifruit (Chinese gooseberry) and handsome sweetcorn can be planted during the cooler months

26 Gardening Folk A tree change resulted in the rediscovery of a love of gardening and learning for Les and Annette

42 Things to Do Jennifer Stackhouse gives her expert advice on garden maintenance in the winter months of July and August

30 Gardening Folk Jennie and John’s urban garden received a natural makeover at the hands of an organic specialist

46 The Underground Horticulturist Claire Bickle outlines organic fertilising options to get the best out of your productive garden

34 Amazing Garden The story of Grassmere in the USA, an organic edible garden in a zoo, nurtured by a dedicated team of gardeners

50 Short shoots Innovative and imaginative ideas for your garden from a fresh green perspective - our ten top tips

41 82

6 Editor’s Note A recent trip to America brought the realisation that organic gardeners share the same spirit worldwide

12 Clever Crops Jennifer Stackhouse discloses the growing secrets of pretty calendula and curious medlar

8 The Grapevine Jo Immig tells about “nature-deficit disorder” and whether or not our wellbeing is affected by the amount of time we spend, or don’t spend, in nature

14 Plant Profile Discover some flowering plants that are not just for the garden; their blooms, and sometimes leaves, can be edible, too

10 Readers’ Forum Horticulturist Melissa King answers readers’ interesting gardening questions

4 | Good Organic Gardening

18 Power Plant Savory, a native to the Mediterranean region, is used in both traditional cooking and folk medicine

CONTENTS 52 Weekend Gardening Straw-bale gardening is an easy way to grow edibles above ground in a bale — one, two or more 56 The Shed If your swimming pool has lost its appeal and is no longer used, why not convert it into a wildlife pond? 60 Pest Patrol A look at camellias and how organic pest management can be used in the ornamental garden as well as the vegie patch

62 Feathered Friends Poultry expert Megg Miller on why chickens make perfect pets for children, including the breeds that are suitable for kids 66 Organic Living Travellers of all ages worldwide are embracing the opportunity to become WWOOFers: Willing Workers On Organic Farms 70 Professional Organics The story of Stoney Creek Oil Products, established in 1992 near Talbot in the central Victorian goldfields

76 Garden to Table Four seasonal edibles — how to grow, harvest, store and preserve — plus delicious recipes from organic chef Joanna Rushton

97 Cover To Cover The latest books for gardeners and cooks reviewed 98 What’s New Our pick of the crop of products and services for gardeners and cooks

Good Organic Gardening | 5

GOOD

ORGANIC

grow naturally, eat fresh, live sustainably

Editor’s note

July/August issue Editor Diane Norris Managing Editor Kerry Boyne Design Crystal Bernia Contributors Claire Bickle, Kerry Boyne, Neville Donovan, Jo Immig, Melissa King, Cathie Long, Tori Mason, Megg Miller, Diane Norris, Tom Remfry, Joanna Rushton, Jennifer Stackhouse, Erina Starkey, Chloe Thomson Food photography Diane Norris Advertising Manager Miriam Keen Ph: 02 9887 0604 | Fax: 02 9878 5553 Mob: 0414 969 693 Email: mkeen@universalmagazines.com.au Cover Photo Fresh organic corn by Dreamstime

Chairman/CEO Prema Perera Publisher Janice Williams Chief Financial Officer Vicky Mahadeva Associate Publisher Karen Day Associate Publisher Emma Perera Circulation Director Mark Darton Creative Director Kate Podger Editorial Production Manager Anastasia Casey Print Production Manager Lilian Ohanessian Prepress Manager Ivan Fitz-Gerald Marketing & Acquisitions Manager Chelsea Peters Subscription enquiries: 1300 303 414 Circulation enquiries to our Sydney head office: (02) 9805 0399 Good Organic Gardening Vol. 5 No. 2 is published by Universal Magazines, Unit 5, 6-8 Byfield Street, North Ryde NSW 2113. Phone: (02) 9805 0399, Fax: (02) 9805 0714. Melbourne office: Suite 4, Level 1, 150 Albert Road, South Melbourne Vic 3025. Phone: (03) 9694 6444, Fax: (03) 9699 7890. Printed by KHL Printing Co Pte Ltd, Singapore. Distributed by Network Services, Phone: (02) 9282 8777. UK Distributor: KLM Partnership, Phone: +44 019 9244 7544. Singapore & Malaysia Distributor: Carkit (F.E.) Pte Ltd, 1 Charlton Lane, #01-02, Singapore 539631, Phone: +65 6282 1960, Fax: +65 6382 3021, Website: www.carkitfe.com This magazine may have some content that is advertorial or promotional in nature. This book is copyright. Apart from any fair dealing for the purpose of private study, research, criticism or review as permitted under the Copyright Act, no part may be reproduced by any process without written permission. Enquiries should be addressed to the publishers. The publishers believe all the information supplied in this book to be correct at the time of printing. They are not, however, in a position to make a guarantee to this effect and accept no liability in the event of any information proving inaccurate. Prices, addresses and phone numbers were, after investigation and to the best of our knowledge and belief, up to date at the time of printing, but the shifting sands of time may change them in some cases. It is not possible for the publishers to ensure that advertisements which appear in this publication comply with the Trade Practices Act, 1974. The responsibility must therefore be on the person, company or advertising agency submitting the advertisements for publication. While every endeavour has been made to ensure complete accuracy, the publishers cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. This magazine is printed on paper produced in a mill which meets Certified Environmental Management System ISO4001 since 1995 and EMAS since 1996. This magazine is printed on paper produced in a mill that meets Environmental Management System ISO14001. Please pass on or recycle this magazine. ISSN 2201-4306 Copyright © Universal Magazines MMXIV ACN 003 026 944 www.universalmagazines.com.au

ith the cool and crisp days of winter upon us, we love this time of year in the garden. It’s reminding me of an earlier time this year when I had the chance to visit the USA for two weeks at the end of their winter. I must say the wonderful memories from the trip are flooding back — vividly! Through our Facebook page we have enjoyed lots of correspondence from overseas organic gardening enthusiasts, amateur and professional alike, and it’s because of a few of these dedicated gardening folk that I took off and visited them in America. And what a trip it turned out to be! I visited organic and biodynamic farms, delved into the operations and offerings of probably the world’s largest chain of organic markets, Whole Foods (wholefoodsmarket.com), and met like-minded gardeners who not only inspired me but welcomed me with typical American warmth and generosity. One thing I brought home with me is that organic gardeners are the same everywhere: full of enthusiasm, dedication and friendliness, with a calm way of doing things. One of the most rewarding parts of my trip was spent with gardeners from the Nashville Zoo. You can read a snippet about what happens there in our Amazing Garden story starting on page 34. I want to especially thank Tori and Cathie, who wrote the story about Grassmere and couldn’t do enough to make me welcome and help in every way possible. Thanks also to the other gardeners: Faye, Jean, Rich, Rene, Dan and Maureen. I would like to thank Margaret especially, one of the Master Gardeners who generously drove me to see the biodynamic farms, markets, nurseries and historic sites while I was there. I’m sure the friendships I made will last for many years to come and we’ll keep you posted on Facebook on things that might be happening abroad. On another exciting note, the team at Good Organic Gardening extends our warmest congratulations to Melissa King, who at the time of putting this issue together was surprised by the early arrival of a bouncing baby boy. Best wishes to you and your family, Melissa. That said, we would also like to welcome back and truly thank Chloe Thomson, who swiftly took over some horticultural writing for us during Melissa’s time off. We look forward to Chloe continuing to contribute to our magazine in the future. We hope you enjoy our winter issue. There’s plenty of horticultural advice, gardening ideas, planting guides, delicious recipes and interesting feature stories for you to dig into. Happy gardening,

Diane

We are a member of

facebook.com/GoodOrganicGardeningMagazine email: GOG.universalmags@gmail.com

Diane Norris is the editor of Good Organic Gardening. She has written for Burke’s Backyard magazine, Backyard & Garden Design Ideas, Gourmet Kitchen, Greenhouse Living and WellBeing Organic Gardening. She was the editor of Sustainable & Waterwise Gardens and Good Gardening Guide. Diane has lived an organic lifestyle for more than 26 years and is committed to doing things the way Mother Nature intended. Unashamedly earthy, she promotes sustainable and organic living solutions while advocating an awareness of nature and wild places through her photography and writing.

What’s On The Australian Garden Show Sydney September 4–7 The Australian Garden Show Sydney, held over four days, will officially mark the start of the floral and gardens shows that take place across NSW. Featuring highly respected local and international garden designers, speakers and retail products, it promises to be an exciting world-class outdoor event. The show is designed to inspire novices as well as the more experienced gardeners. It will be a centre for exploring new ideas in gardening techniques and design and will showcase a wide variety of lifestyle products. With the support of the NSW Government through Destination NSW, Australia’s key gardening associations and the gardening industry, the 2014 Australian Garden Show Sydney is bound to be an event not to be missed. Please come and visit us at the Universal Magazines stand. Our editor and other team members will be there each day. Visit australiangardenshowsydney.com.au or see page 74 for more details.

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THE GRAPEVINE | News

the grapevine Environmental news and updates compiled by Jo Immig

Are we afraid of nature? Words by Jo Immig recently heard a radio interview with Richard Louv, author of Last Child in the Woods: Saving our Children from Nature-Deficit Disorder, and it made me think about “fear of nature”. I’m not just talking about bug phobia, though worth exploring. I’m curious about the profound disconnect between humans (granted, not all of us) and our place as part of nature. Louv sounds the alarm for people, especially children, who don’t spend enough time in nature and end up with a range of health and psychological problems he calls Nature-Deficit Disorder. He draws on research that finds links between the increasing amount of time children (and adults) spend indoors in front of computers, video games and television and rising rates of obesity, attention disorders, anxiety and depression. Being nature-deprived, he argues, also results in people having little respect for their immediate surroundings, a situation that could have alarming implications for our collective future. He also points to research that shows being in nature leads people to nurture close relationships with fellow human beings, value community and show more generosity.

Ecocidal tendencies As a species, we seem intent on fouling our nests to the point where we threaten the life-support system that sustains us. It’s irrational, but it’s happening. In our daily lives we separate ourselves from nature by hermetically sealing ourselves inside air-conditioned and artificially lit buildings, cars and shopping centres. I was

8 | Good Organic Gardening

staggered to discover many of us now spend up to 90 per cent of our lives indoors! Sadly, there are numerous examples of the destruction we’re perpetrating on nature and, hence, ourselves. Of course, there are good things, too, but overall the direction is set to destruction. Consider industrial farming practices that enslave animals, causing pain and suffering; overfishing to the point of extinction; acidification of oceans from increases in carbon dioxide pollution; diminishing global forest cover; mass extinction of species; water, soil and air pollution. How can we do these things and think it isn’t going to negatively impact on us as a species? UK lawyer turned eco-activist Polly Higgins terms this situation “ecocide”, meaning the destructive impact of humanity on its own natural environment. The reason we’re in this pickle, according to Higgins, is “the abject failure of leadership and the lack of a (legal) duty of care”. To remedy this, she’s calling on leaders to step up and exercise their duty of care and enshrine Earth-protecting laws, essentially making it a crime to kill nature. But would this save us from ourselves? There’s merit in her approach, of course, but the deeper question remains: why aren’t leaders stepping up to the mark and exercising their responsibilities in these most urgent of times? When I have this conversation with people, aside from politics and the power of corporations, we invariably end up talking about technology. There’s a lot of hope being placed in the idea that we’ll somehow invent technology that will save us from our actions, just in the nick of time.

Eco-feminist perspective This dislocation from nature (and ourselves) has its origins, I believe, in societal structures, which split mind from body, spirit from matter, male from female and, ultimately, humans from nature. This dualism values competition over co-operation and creates imbalances in power relationships, which broadly speaking result in “man” being at the top and nature on the bottom.

There’s a lot of hope being placed in the idea that we’ll somehow invent technology that will save us from our actions, just in the nick of time.

Photos: Bigstock

With nature perceived as “less than”, like a machine to be managed and dominated, or as something purely for human pleasure and consumption, it becomes vulnerable to rape and slavery because it’s perceived as having no soul. It wasn’t that long ago scientists would have us believe that babies and animals had no emotions or feelings. Similarly, the wisdom of the feminine and those who live close to the Earth is often considered less rational and unscientific and is less valued as a result. Throw in a good measure of “fear” and it’s easy to see how the power imbalance is maintained. Here’s a gardening-related example. Think about the national “war on weeds”. Millions of dollars are spent every year dousing roadsides, paddocks and parks with toxic herbicides. What’s behind it? It’s a fear of plant life beyond our control. Weeds are messy and wild and they take over, so drastic action is apparently justified. Some argue such widespread use of herbicides causes more damage than the original problem. Farmers have whispered in my ear that herbicides are “liquid weeds” because they disturb the soil micro-organism and nutrient balance to such an extent that they promote even more weed growth, locking them into a never-ending cycle of herbicide use. I’m not saying do nothing about weeds, but it’s revealing that the manual and non-chemical weed management methods used by organic gardeners and farmers are often met with suspicion and scorn and regarded as inefficient and inferior, even when shown to be highly successful. So, if the fear of nature is a socially constructed fear, then it gives us some hope because we can learn to co-operate and reconnect with nature and each other again. We can learn to be inclusive and curious about wisdom in all its forms. What better place to start than in the garden? 

Q&A | Readers’ Forum

ask melissa Horticulturist and TV presenter Melissa King answers your cultivation questions

Asparagus spears are most tender when around 25cm tall or less

Q A

I’ve just grown my first crop of asparagus. Can you please tell me when I can harvest the spears? It’s best not to harvest any spears in the first year to give the crown a chance to establish. Then begin harvesting lightly in the second year. You can pick the fresh spears from spring onwards, when the first shoots emerge, right through until summer. The spears are most tender and at their best when they are around 25cm tall or less, with tightly closed tips. They can grow quickly, particularly in warm areas, so check your crop daily if necessary. You can pull the individual spears out of the ground by hand or cut them below the soil surface with a sharp knife. But don’t go overboard. Make sure you leave a few spears in the ground to grow and develop feathery foliage to help sustain plants for the following season.

10 | Good Organic Gardening

Words by Melissa King & Chloe Thomson I’d like to attract more bees into my garden to aid pollination. Are there any specific plants I should grow? Bees are wonderful pollinators and one of the best ways to attract them into the garden is to grow bee-attracting flowers and plants. Blue-flowering plants like catmint, salvia and lavender are enticing to busy little bees. So too are old-fashioned forget-menots and nasturtiums. I also find that many flowering and fragrant herbs bring bees to the garden, like thyme, basil and sage. And borage is always swarming with bees! Plant bee-friendly flowers en masse if you can for extra impact. A lot of vegies, like cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkins, rely on bees to pollinate them, so scatter them through your vegie patch, too.

Q A

A lot of my tomatoes last season developed a soft brown patch at the base of the fruit. They matured but then developed severe splits along the tomato. How do I stop this from happening in the next season of tomatoes? The browning and softening at the base or blossom end of your tomato fruit is commonly called “blossom end rot”. There are several factors that contribute to tomatoes developing this annoying and unsightly problem. First, look to your watering practices:

Blue-flowering catmint attracts bees

blossom end rot is more prevalent when your plants are exposed to watering extremes (either too dry or too moist). Blossom end rot may also be a sign that your soil has a calcium deficiency; an application of dolomite lime before planting can help overcome this.

I want to enclose my fruit trees within a large chook run but I’m worried about the chooks scratching too much around the base of the trees and exposing the roots of my relatively young orchard trees. How can I stop them doing this? I’ve had great success enclosing my orchard within a chook run and I agree: preventing the birds from over-scratching around the base of the trees was an initial problem. But I found a nifty and cheap solution that still allows the birds to gently scratch and eat any pests such as codling moth grubs! Get your hands on a large square or circular piece of chicken mesh (you want it large enough to come out to the drip zone of the tree). Cut a slit in the mesh into the centre and then cut out a small hole to house the trunk without rubbing. Then slip it around the base of the plant so the mesh lies flush with the ground. Secure it with tent or irrigation pegs.

Email your queries to Melissa at GOG.universalmags@gmail.com

Photos: 123RF & Diane Norris

Tomato with blossom end rot

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CLEVER CROPS | Calendula Calendula label

Calendula oﬃcinalis

Edible and medicinal uses

With its many medicinal uses and lovely show of daisy-like, edible ﬂowers, this annual plant deserves a place in every herb garden

Pot marigold, a common name for calendula, hints at the versatility of this clever annual, whose edible leaves were added to the cooking pot in days gone by. While the leaves are edible, it’s the flowers that have been rediscovered in the modern kitchen. The flowers have narrow petals (technically known as ray florets) and are held on thick stems above the large leaves. The flowers can be harvested and gently torn apart and the colourful petals scattered over salads, used as garnish or as a substitute for saffron. These versatile petals can also be used as a dye. A tincture or ointment from the flowers will treat skin problems from chapped hands (a common winter ailment) and dry skin to wounds.

Words by Jennifer Stackhouse

sing plants to combat pests is an important part of organic gardening. Although some plants contain insecticides that are extracted and used as pesticides, many assist in more subtle ways. As they grow, they provide food and habitat for predator insects that feed on the pest insects in your garden. Clever, hey? Various wasps, flies and other beneficial garden insects prey on caterpillars, aphids and other pests. Wasps and some flies, for example, take caterpillars and put them into their nesting chambers as food for their young. Robber flies and dragonflies also catch garden pests. To increase predator numbers in the garden, incorporate plants for nectar and pollen. These plants also form places for the good guys to lay their eggs. While there are plenty of planting choices for the warmer months of the year, there are fewer in bloom in winter, which is when predator numbers can fall. A colourful and practical addition to gardens, which can be grown now to attract beneficial insects, is calendula. Calendulas have large single to double flowers in colours that range from yellow to gold, orange and even red and brown tones.

Growing tips Calendulas are easy to grow from seed, which can be direct sown or raised in seed trays. Sow seeds summer to spring (but avoid winter sowing in cold districts). Before planting seeds or seedlings into the garden, dig aged manure

12 | Good Organic Gardening

and compost into the soil. This will create a rich environment to encourage vigorous growth and plenty of flowers. Keep the plants in bloom by regularly deadheading to remove spent flowers. Liquid feed with an organic fertiliser applied every three to four weeks. To use calendulas to attract valuable insects, plant clumps here and there throughout the garden and among vegetables. 

Calendula salve recipe Makes 1 cup Ingredients 1 cup dried calendula petals 1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup grated beeswax 12 drops lavender essential oil (optional) Equipment needed Cheesecloth 2 glass Pyrex bowls or glass mason jars Wooden stirrer — spoon, spatula or ruler Saucepan (large enough to fit the bowls or jars) Glass jar with lid to put the salve in Method 1. Place the calendula petals and olive oil in a glass Mason jar or small Pyrex bowl. The olive oil should completely cover the calendula flowers. 2. Put water in a saucepan and place the Mason jar or bowl into the water, making sure

no water gets into the oil mixture. 3. Heat the water to a light simmer and let the oil infuse in the heated water for 3–5 hours. Add water to the saucepan as necessary. The lengthy time allows the healing properties of the petals to infuse (soak) gently into the oil. 4. After 3–5 hours of infusing, remove the saucepan from the heat. 5. Line a fine mesh strainer with cheesecloth. Carefully strain the calendula petals from the oil into the other bowl or jar. Carefully squeeze or press all the oil from the petals. 6. Add the beeswax to the oil. As before, fill the saucepan with water and put the glass bowl or jar into it. Bring to a simmer to melt the beeswax, mixing occasionally with the wooden stirrer. 7. When the beeswax has completely melted, pour into the glass storage jar. Leave to cool, then cap, label and date the jar. 8. The calendula salve will last up to a year from the date you made it and can be used on cuts, scrapes, bruises, rashes and dry or chapped skin.

Photo: Bigstock

Calendula

Common name: Calendula Botanical name: Calendula officinalis Group: Annual Requires: Full sun, rich, well-drained soil Dislikes: Drying out Suitable for: Vegetable and herb gardens, containers Habit: Leafy herb 40–60cm high Needs: Regular water, tip pruning Propagation: Seed, seedling Difficulty: Easy

Medlar | CLEVER CROPS

Medlar label Common name: Medlar Botanical name: Mespilus germanica Group: Shrub to small tree Requires: Full sun, well-drained soil Dislikes: Poor drainage Suitable for: Orchards, specimen tree Habit: Deciduous Needs: Winter chill to ripen Propagation: Seed, grafting Difficulty: Moderate

Missing relative?

Medlar Mespilus germanica This old-fashioned fruiting tree, a relative of the rose, is up for reconsideration for the modern vegie garden, though more as a curiosity than a mainstream food crop Words by Jennifer Stackhouse

his plant is a curiosity rather than a mainstream crop, but it has a fascinating story and a place in literature. The medlar is a member of the rose family (Rosaceae), so its closest relatives are wild roses, loquats, crabapples, japonica and the tough old quince. The medlar tree grows to around 3m high and 3m wide.

Photo: Bigstock

Rose relative Seen in flower, the common medlar has all the hallmarks of the rose family: single white rose-like flowers, thorns and dark-green toothed leaves. Where it can confound is its fruit. These strange russet-brown fruits are unusual, to say the least. Measuring about 5–6cm across, with an open calyx as their base, they look a little like large rosehips or oversized hawthorns. If you break one open, it has an apple-like fleshy interior with five seeds. I’ve never eaten one, as they are so mouthpuckeringly astringent they’re not edible until verging on rotten, which is around late autumn or early winter (after the first frosts). Ripe fruit is easy to pick if it hasn’t fallen to the ground.

As “verging on rotten” sounds rather unappealing, there’s a special word to describe a ripe medlar fruit: “bletted”. When the fruit has reached this stage and is turning brown it has enough sweetness to be edible (and reportedly tastes a little like a pear). The tartness is due to high levels of malic acid, which stops the fruit from being eaten by birds or browsing animals. You may be wondering why you would bother with such a strange crop — but that’s only because we have access to so many fruit trees now it’s hard to imagine there was a time when a medlar was worth growing and eating. It was taken to the UK by the Romans and is referred to in Shakespeare and Chaucer. As well as eating the bletted fruit raw, you can use medlars to make a beautiful deep-red jelly. It has high pectin levels and is rich in vitamin C.

Growing medlars It you want to include this plant in your orchard as a talking point (and perhaps to make jars of ruby-red medlar jelly), you need to be in an area with cold winters and mild summers, such as Tasmania, southern parts of Australia or highland areas. It needs shelter from strong winds, so is often seen at its best growing among other

The medlar has been grown in Europe for thousands of years but probably originated around Turkey or further east into parts of Asia. Until fairly recently, it was considered to be an only child — the only example of its genus, Mespilus. Some years ago a new species was discovered in the United States, which in 1990 was named M. canescens. It is commonly called Stern’s medlar. But the story doesn’t stop there. As this is such a rare plant, known only from a few examples in one area in Arkansas, it’s thought it may be a hybrid between the common medlar and an American native plant called the blueberry hawthorn. If you’d like to read more about the controversy over this new medlar relative here’s a link to a fascinating blog: http:// thefruitblog.blogspot.com.au/2009/01/ sterns-medlar-revisited.html.

Medlar jelly recipe Roughly chop bletted fruit and cover with water. Cut one or two lemons in quarters and place in the pot with the medlars. Simmer gently for a couple of hours partly covered, making sure the liquid doesn’t evaporate away. Strain through cheesecloth or a jelly bag overnight. To the strained liquid, add an equal amount of sugar and boil until all the sugar has dissolved. Simmer for a few more minutes. Place in clean jars and allow to set. Tip: Some of the fruit can be used firm (unbletted) to release more pectin and so set better.

trees or shrubs. Grafted forms are available for sale. The main named varieties available are ‘Dutch’ and ‘Nottingham’. 

Good Organic Gardening | 13

PLANT PROFILE | Edible flowers Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) Other common names: Indian cress, monks cress Parts used: Leaves, buds and flowers particularly for their peppery taste Harvest and storing: Harvest flower buds, flowers and young leaves in the cool of the morning Uses: Add whole flowers or petals to salads; add any part to stir-fries and pasta; flowers can be stuffed

Not just a pretty face Words by Diane Norris

lowering plants are not only attractive, usually long-blooming and fast-growing, but their flowers, and sometimes leaves, can be edible. Some, of course, can also be used for medicinal or cosmetic purposes. The first recorded mention of the culinary use of flowers dates back thousands of years, some say to 140 BCE. Many different cultures have incorporated flowers into their traditional foods. The Romans used mallow (Malva sylvestris), rose and violet. Italian and Hispanic societies incorporated stuffed squash blossoms (zucchini flowers) into their cuisine and Oriental dishes included the use of daylily buds. Dandelions were one of the bitter herbs referred to in the Bible. And Chartreuse, a French liqueur made by the Carthusian Monks since 1737, is made of

14 | Good Organic Gardening

distilled alcohol aged with 130 herbs, plants and flowers, including carnation petals.

Identify The most crucial step in using any plant for a culinary purpose is to make absolutely sure it is safe to eat, never more so than when using flowering plants. There are many publications and websites with information about edible flowers that are safe to eat and have been used culinary and medicinally for centuries; but, or course, if you are not sure what the flower is, don’t eat it. Some flowers are safe to eat only in small amounts because of their effects or flavour. Toxic flowers can easily be mistaken for edible varieties as they sometimes share a common name, so it’s imperative to do thorough research, especially botanically, before including flowers in a meal.

Safe flowers It’s important to use only homegrown flowers for culinary purposes and they must be grown organically. Flowers cultivated for the cut-flower market or as ornamental plants for the garden are not intended to be used as food. Such flowering plants commonly carry residual toxic pesticides and chemicals that may pose significant health risks if ingested. Never buy cut flowers for the kitchen and don’t pick blooms from the roadside or non-organic gardens to use as food. And never use flowers from plants newly purchased from garden centres or nurseries.

Photos: 123RF, Bigstock & Diane Norris

Not only pretty in the garden, edible ﬂowers will add beauty and delicate ﬂavour to salads, desserts and other dishes

Edible flowers | PLANT PROFILE

Bergamot (Monarda didyma) Other common names: Bee balm, monarda, Oswego tea Parts used: Leaves and flowers Harvest and storing: Pick edible flowers as required. Collect leaves in late spring and dry them Uses: Leaves are used to make a tea with a flavour similar to that of Earl Grey Tea

Borage (Borago officinalis) Other common names: Burrage, beebread, bee fodder, starflower Parts used: Leaves (cucumber-like flavour) and flowers Harvest and storing: Pick leaves young before plant flowers and pluck flowers fresh as required Uses: In salads, soups, stirfries, pasta fillings, sauces and drinks

Good Organic Gardening | 15

PLANT PROFILE | Edible flowers

Anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) Other common names: Anise mint, giant blue hyssop, licorice mint Parts used: Leaves, flowers and seeds Harvest and storing: Pick flowers and leaves fresh. Hang upside-down to dry Uses: Flower nectar is used as a sweetener; use leaves for tea or meat seasoning; add flowers or leaves to salads; add seeds to cakes or muffins

Rose (Rosa rugosa or R. gallica officinalis) Warning: Only use roses that have not been sprayed with pesticides and were not purchased from florists Parts used: Rose hips (seed pods) and petals Harvest and storing: Pluck rose hips after first frost; cut rose blooms fresh and remove white centre part before eating Uses: Rose hips make great jellies, sauces, soups, seasoning and teas; add petals to drinks, cocktails, desserts, summer sorbets and pastries

1616| |Good Good GoodOrganic Organic OrganicGardening Gardening Gardening

Lavender (Lavandula sp.) Types of lavender: English, Italian, French, woolly Parts used: Flowers Harvest and storing: Harvest flowers in midsummer when spikes are one- to twothirds open. Hang upside-down to dry or strip flowers from stems Uses: Flowers can be added to cream, icecream, shortbread, icings, jams and jellies

Edible flowers | PLANT PROFILE

Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo) Parts used: Both male and female flowers are edible Harvest and storing: Pick firm, slightly opened blossoms with some stem; remove pistils or stamens; use fresh Uses: Flowers must be cooked and can be stuffed, sautéed, baked or used in soups

Uses Whole blooms or petals can be added to foods to provide taste, texture, aroma and colour. They provide culinary interest, perhaps even oddity. They can feature in or be added as a garnish to any part of a meal — a main dish, salad or dessert. Flowers can also be incorporated into drinks as flavourings or used to make infusions, teas or wines. Preserves, spreads (such as butter), vinegars, dressings and marinades can benefit from the addition of edible blooms. Most can be dried and used like culinary herbs.

Pansy (Viola x wittrockiana) Parts used: Flowers only Harvest and storing: Pick flowers fresh as required Uses: Fresh flowers can be candied to use on cakes or simply use whole flowers or petals scattered in salads

a generalisation, so it’s recommended to follow instructions on the seed packet or plant label.

Problems Some flowering plants experience pest and/or disease problems. These must be controlled organically if you want to use any part of the plant for consumption. For instance, control aphids that cluster on new shoots or leaves with soap spray, wipe off with a damp cloth or squash them. Hunt slugs and snails and squash, set beer traps or make protective barriers around plants using crushed eggshells.

Growing Most flowering plants grow in moist, fertile, well-drained soil that has plenty of mature organic compost mixed in. This is

Harvest For best flavour and appearance, flowers should be picked fresh, preferably early in the morning

or in the cool of the evening, just before use. Pick full and undamaged blooms. Avoid wilted, faded or unopened flowers as they can have a bitter taste. Many flowers can be eaten whole but it’s best to avoid the often pungent parts such as the stamens and stems. 

Further reading The Edible Flower Garden: From Garden To Kitchen: Choosing, Growing And Cooking Edible Flowers Paperback by Kathy Brown (2014) Easy Growing: Organic Herbs and Edible Flowers from Small Spaces by Gayla Trail (2012) The Edible Flower Garden (Edible Garden Series) by Rosalind Creasy

Good Organic Gardening | 17

POWER PLANT | Savory Summer savory

Words by Kerry Boyne here are basically two types of savory used in cooking: summer savory (Satureja hortensis) and winter savory (Satureja montana). Summer savory, sometimes called mountain savory, is the better known of the two and is an annual, while winter savory is a perennial, which some people find more convenient in the herb garden. While the two savories — members of the Lamiaceae family and so related to thyme and rosemary — can be used in much the same ways and have very similar leaves and flowers, hortensis is generally considered to have a sweeter, more delicate flavour than montana, which is slightly stronger and more bitter. Neither of the savories is commonly used in Australia. I only discovered them from trying out a recipe for pork medallions that calls for dried savory and rosemary as the herbal flavouring in a delicious mushroom sauce to accompany the pork. For a herb lover like me, it was something of a revelation — the dish is now a regular on our menu. Savory is, however, very well known in Canada, where summer savory is traditionally used in poultry, pork dishes and meat pies; in France where it is an ingredient in the standard herb mix, herbes de Provence; and in Eastern European countries where it is used in many traditional dishes. Indeed, it occupies pride of place as a regular condiment on the Bulgarian table, along with salt and paprika. Both savories are native to the Mediterranean region of southern Europe and winter savory, as the word montana implies, grow in mountainous areas of southern Europe and North Africa. The genus Satureja is reported to have been named by Pliny the Elder. It’s derived from the word “satyr”, the mythological halfman, half-goat creature who supposedly lived in fields of savory. The Romans used the herb for cooking and introduced it to Britain, along with thyme, basil and oregano. The great 17th-century English herbalist and botanist John Parkinson wrote how winter savory was dried, powdered and mixed with grated breadcrumbs “to breade their meate, be it fish or flesh, to give it a quicker relish”. He also recommended it as “effectual to expel winde”.

Savory Satureja hortensis, Satureja montana It’s not so well known in Australia, but in the Northern Hemisphere savory has a ﬁrm following in both traditional cooking and folk medicine 18 | Good Organic Gardening

In folk medicine savories are believed to possess antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antiparasitic and antiviral properties as well as being immune stimulants and general tonics. Some of these claims are also backed up

Photos: iStock

Medicinal properties

Savory | POWER PLANT sex drive. (Perhaps that’s the reason for the general preference for summer savory — not flavour, after all ...) The crushed leaves of either rubbed on insect bites and stings give instant relief. It’s thought that as winter savory is stronger in flavour, it may also be a little more potent in its therapeutic benefits. Culpepper wrote of summer savory in Herbal (1652): “It expels tough phlegm from the chest and lungs, quickens the dull spirits in the lethargy, if the juice be snuffed up the nose; dropped into the eyes it clears them of thin, cold humours proceeding from the brain.” Savories are also a good source of vitamins and minerals, including potassium, iron, calcium, magnesium, manganese, zinc and selenium.

Growing

Bushy winter savory is ideal for container growing

The “bean herb” Savory has a flavour affinity with beans — in fact it’s also known as bean herb — and beans are said to grow better when planted near winter savory, which also helps to repel aphids from roses and keep mildew at bay. Its flowers will bring bees and other beneficial insects to the garden. For a delicious side dish, steam or gently boil green, yellow or purple beans until just tender but still with some crunch. Mix through a tablespoon of chopped fresh savory (either kind) and a knob of butter. Season with sea salt and ground pepper and scatter with finely chopped bacon, prosciutto or pancetta that has been fried till crisp.

somewhat by a few scientific studies. The oil from winter savory has been shown to inhibit the growth of Candida albicans. In a recent study on mice, summer savory, one of nine herbs tested, was shown to counteract the effects of oxidative stress and a proinflammatory cascade of ageing brought on by the administration of D-galactose in the subject mice. Summer savory’s anti-bacterial actions were demonstrated in an in-vitro study on the key bacteria in oral biofilms

involved in gum disease. It concluded that “antibacterial and antigelatinolytic (inhibiting tongue carcinoma growth) activities of Satureja hortensis essential oil have potential for the treatment of periodontal inflammation”. Traditionally, both savories have been used for coughs and sore throats, digestive disorders ranging from indigestion to diarrhoea, and diabetes. Summer savory was believed to have aphrodisiac properties, while winter savory was thought to decrease

Winter savory is a bushy perennial that grows to around 30–60cm in height, while the annual summer savory is a more slender, leggier plant. Both are quite hardy, liking a sunny position and moderately fertile, light, well-drained soil. The savories do well in the same kind of conditions as their relatives thyme and rosemary, so keep the water up when first planted and during the hotter months, but don’t over-water. As Mediterranean herbs, the savories are adapted to chalky, slightly alkaline soils, so a little lime can be beneficial. Mushroom compost makes a good soil conditioner or surface mulch for savories and other Mediterranean-climate herbs. Winter savory can survive all but the worst frosts but in summer will die off in heat. Mulch well to keep moisture in when the weather is hot and to protect from frost in the cold. Seed or seedlings for both types can be bought from herb specialists. Plant seed in trays in late winter. Plant out seedlings in spring or when soil temperatures reach 18–30°C, about 30cm apart. Winter savory propagates well — perhaps better — from cuttings and can be used to grow a decorative hedge. Cut it back each spring to allow for new growth.

Harvesting Harvest in 6–10 weeks in summer just before flowering for better flavour and more therapeutic potency, though the bees and butterflies will love it if you let some go to flower. Cut bunches and hang to dry. Use fresh or dried in cooking and for making a soothing tea for sore throats and coughs or for mild digestive disturbances. Infuse a few tablespoons of the leaves in a cup of boiling water. 

Good Organic Gardening | 19

Cabbage Red Drumhead

The Brilliant Brassicas There are no healthier vegies than cabbages, broccoli, cauliďŹ&#x201A;ower and their other family members 20 | Good Organic Gardening

The brassicas | Words by Chloe Thomson hen you compare the different appearances of the many brassica varieties, it’s hard to believe that cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kale, mustard greens and even Asian leafy greens all originate from the same wild great-granddaddy, Brassica oleracea. Centuries of selection for a preference towards flower buds created broccoli, while breeding for leaf growth led to the many forms of cabbage and a focus on stalk growth saw the birth of longerstemmed brassicas such as kale. There is a brassica variety for every season, but it’s in the winter garden that they are the real stars. There’s also a reduced risk of attack from the brassicas’ main nemesis — the white cabbage butterfly — in the cooler months, although you’ll still need to monitor for eggs and caterpillars on autumn-planted seedlings.

I like to use the “search and squash” method for any eggs I find on the underside of leaves, but if they get to the caterpillar stage, pick off and squash any you see. For large infestations, an application of certified organic Bacillus thuringiensis (Dipel) may be needed, but only as a last resort. Despite the huge range of varieties, most brassicas have similar growing requirements to produce a fabulous crop. Choose a sunny, open position with a rich, well-drained soil. Add compost and well-rotted manure before planting and, if need be, a handful of lime to bring the pH to around 6.5. If you are growing brassicas from seed, it’s best to sow them in punnets and transplant them into the garden as young seedlings. To avoid soil-borne diseases and recurring pest problems, rotate your brassica crops with onions, legumes or root crops. If you don’t have the space for

FAMILY HEIRLOOMS

Cauliflower

Kale varieties

Photos: Bigstock & courtesy of The Diggers Club, diggers.com.au

Broccoli Romanesco

Good Organic Gardening | 21

FAMILY HEIRLOOMS | The brassicas large plantings in garden beds, they can easily be grown in pots; just look out for the miniature varieties or pick-and-comeagain Asian leafy greens. In fact, there’s no reason to limit brassicas to the vegetable garden. Many of the heirloom varieties are colourful, decorative and a wonderful focal feature in any flower bed or border.

Cabbage ‘Red Drumhead’ is a large variety whose outer leaf veins are a vibrant blue against the green leaves. It produces a large brilliant purple cabbage head that’s loaded with antioxidants. Although not as colourful, ‘January King’ is another

Cabbage Vertus Savoy

22 | Good Organic Gardening

worthy choice. It’s a semi-savoy variety with decorative frilly-edged leaves tinted shades of turquoise, pink and blue.

Kale Not all cabbages are the compact headforming variety. In fact, kale has made a comeback of late, both in the kitchen and the garden. There are varieties with curly, crinkled and flattish leaves and they come in black, green and purple. Look for ‘Red Winter’, ‘Blue Curled Scotch’, ‘Tuscan Black’ (sometimes called ‘Cavolo Nero’), ‘Two Peters’, ‘Redbor’ and ‘Green Curly’. Whatever variety you choose, kale is very high in antioxidants and a versatile vegetable in the kitchen. It’s lovely in stir-

fries, or braised with onion and garlic, or chopped small and mixed with peas and a little butter and lemon juice. But for a special guilt-free treat, try kale chips — a winner with kids.

Broccoli Choose sprouting broccoli over the traditional single-headed types as a great way to extend your harvest period. Varieties like the Italian ‘Di Cicco’ produce a single head first but, once harvested, will form smaller edible shoots for up to six months. There are also purple sprouting varieties that look so good they could even be used in flower arranging! For a flash of bright lime-green, choose ‘Romanesco’;

The brassicas | though it won’t produce side shoots once the main head has been picked, it’s well worth growing for its delicate flavour and decorative lime-green heads.

Brussels sprouts If the standard green Brussels sprouts don’t tickle your fancy, you might like to try the variety ‘Sprouts Ruby’. Producing burgundyred, nutty sprouts among lavender-blue leaves, this is another heirloom brassica variety that demands a spot in your garden where it can be the centre of attention.

Cauliflower Cauliflower can be the fussiest of brassicas to grow but well worth that bit of Brussels sprouts Oliver

extra effort. For success, make sure the pH is spot-on 6.5. Some varieties grow with a very open leaf structure that doesn’t cover the developing head, which may be prone to yellowing. If this happens to your plants, try pegging some of the leaves together so they provide the developing head with more shelter from sunlight. Not all cauliflower is white, though. In fact, many of the heirloom varieties come in shades of purple, green and even orange. The tips of the head on ‘Purple Sicily’ blush a glorious shade of purple and, as with many purple vegetables, are particularly high in antioxidants. Also look out for ‘Green Macerata’. It has a soft lime-green head and lovely earthy pea taste. 

FAMILY HEIRLOOMS

Centuries of selection for a preference towards ﬂower buds created broccoli, while breeding for leaf growth led to the many forms of cabbage and a focus on stalk growth saw the birth of longer-stemmed brassicas such as kale.

Purple broccoli

Photos: Courtesy of The Diggers Club, diggers.com.au

Cabbage January King

Good Organic Gardening | 23

FAMILY HEIRLOOMS | Cabbage recipe

Sauerkraut One of the tastiest and most nutritious ways to enjoy your cabbage is to ferment it

auerkraut, which literally means “sour cabbage”, is a lacto-fermented vegetable dish that came to us from Eastern Europe. Even the French enjoy their choucroute, which probably dates from when France annexed Alsace and Lorraine in the 17th century. Long before that, though, sauerkraut evolved by accident in China. It’s said that workers building the Great Wall found their vegetables began to ferment after a few days and they liked the result. Indeed, variants are found in Korea’s ginger-flavoured kimchi and Japan’s tsukemono with lemon and soy sauce. In any event, sauerkraut found its way to Europe 1000 years ago with Genghis Khan and his hordes after they plundered China. Poles, Germans and other eastern European immigrants took their pickled cabbage with

them to the New World. There’s even a LatinAmerican version called curtido, a spicy slaw of cabbage (white and red), onion and carrot with chilli and lime juice. Truly, sauerkraut has conquered the world. Sauerkraut’s fantastic health benefits have long been known, especially as a source of nutrients during the long northern winter. Captain Cook carried barrels of the stuff on lengthy sea voyages to combat scurvy, though it wasn’t until well into the 20th century that doctors understood the link between the disease and vitamin C deficiency. Perhaps even more importantly, sauerkraut and other fermented foods keep our digestive systems populated with billions of beneficial bacteria. As more than 70 per cent of the immune system resides in the gut, these foods arm us with a well-

Stay cool Sauerkraut should never be heated as cooking kills the beneficial Lactobacilli along with most of its vitamin C content. In Australia, we can grow cabbage in winter, when it’s safe from the predations of the cabbage moth, and harvest in spring. That makes cold sauerkraut the perfect warm-weather food.

Ingredients

Method

• 1 medium-sized cabbage, cored & finely shredded • 3 cloves garlic, crushed • 1 tbsp sea salt • ¼ cup kefir whey (optional; instead you can use the whey from yoghurt or simply add another tbsp of salt) • 1 tbsp caraway seeds or fresh dill, chopped (optional) • 1 large carrot, shredded (optional)

• Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl. Cover with a tea towel for 30 minutes while the salt pulls the juices out of the vegies. Help the process by pounding and mashing till there’s enough liquid to cover the mixture. • Transfer the mixture to a clean, widemouthed glass jar. Push the vegies down so the liquid comes to the top. If necessary, add some brine at the ratio 50g salt to 1 litre (4 cups) water. Leave a few centimetres at the top of the jar for expansion and cover tightly. • Leave at room temperature for 3-7 days, checking to make sure the liquid completely covers the mixture. Should any mould form at the top in that time, simply scoop it off. Transfer to a cool place and store for 2 months or more. (Captain Cook’s barrels were still good after 27 months, no refrigeration.) Recipe adapted from WellBeing Homegrown Homemade, published by Universal Magazines.

You can also add bay leaves and juniper berries if you wish.

Equipment • Mixing bowl • Tea towel • Wide-mouthed glass jar or Mason jar (no need to sterilise — a run through the dishwasher will get it clean enough)

24 | Good Organic Gardening

functioning, protective immune system, our best natural defence against pathogenic bugs, including so-called superbugs. This recipe makes a jar of sauerkraut but if you want to make a much larger quantity you can make it in a clean, food-grade plastic bucket and transfer to jars later.

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GARDENING FOLK | Les Mulder & Annette Owen-Mulder

Planting an edible forest A tree change to the mid north coast of NSW has given this couple an exciting new purpose and a rewarding way of living 26 | Good Organic Gardening

Photo by Alessandro Moggi

There is a bountiful harvest year-round from Les and Annetteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s productive organic garden

Les Mulder & Annette Owen-Mulder | GARDENING FOLK Les and Annette have found complete contentment in their garden - The Edible Forest

Words by Diane Norris nce upon a time people used to dream of making a sea change, and they still do. But many these days are opting for the tree change instead, often to have the space for producing their own food. That’s exactly the leap of faith Les Mulder and his wife Annette took in April 2012. Les and Annette are building The Edible Forest, a sustainable agricultural business, on 56ha near Wingham on the mid north coast of NSW. Both say they are applying everything they have absorbed as urban permaculturists, as well as developing many new skills in holistic management, to make a long-term commitment to improving their land and local community. But don’t think they are professionals; they are gardening folk with a dream to make a difference. The couple formerly lived close to Sydney, where they embraced organics and permaculture. In their small suburban yard, they established a unique garden, implementing permaculture and aquaponic techniques, that set their food garden apart from the usual humble backyard vegie patch. “The aquaponics was a huge source of joy and achievement for us,” Les says. “Our fish and plants grew in an integrated system,

Photos: Les Mulder & Diane Norris

creating a mutual relationship between the two, and it was hugely successful — quite a turning point.” Standing alongside this system was a full-size in-ground swimming pool, which they converted to a pond well before the trend took off, as well as two stylish raised beds that produced bountiful organic food year round.

Setting up The opportunity to head north presented itself early in 2012. Their requirements were quite simple: they wanted to be not too far from a railway station, live within a few hours’ reach of Sydney and have an acreage. The property they found at Wherrol Flat ticked all the boxes. The initial question, of course, was how did they want to farm? The property was set up to run cattle, so Les and Annette decided to continue and make those cattle the central platform in soil improvement across the farm. One of the most important considerations, however, was water. To address the water issue, they employed the Keyline Scale of Permanence and Darren Doherty’s extensions to it. They wanted to be able to supply stock, new plantings, the edible patch and anywhere on the property with clean water. Annette explains, “Basically, get the water right and everything else will follow.” A lot of underground infrastructure was laid and a 1930s piston pump runs water all over

the property. They hope to install a windmill at some stage to push water from dams into holding tanks, eliminating the use of electricity and/or fuel. Their new garden is really a natural progression, albeit on a bigger scale, of what they were doing in Sydney. “In permaculture, the edible forest is a low-maintenance and highly productive polyculture,” says Les. “This is a gardening system using multiple crops in the same space, imitating the diversity of natural ecosystems. It overproduces compared to monocultures and contains many different ecological niches, which are all occupied by useful species.”

The kitchen garden Within easy reach of the home are the vegie gardens and small orchard. Even though surrounded by acres, it’s a modest yet highly productive space filled with seasonal edibles. Annette says they are both self-proclaimed foodies, so they grow what they like to eat. Vegies grow in 13 raised beds, all constructed of reclaimed hardwood railway sleepers, simply bolted in each corner and sized so every part of the bed can be reached easily. As a bonus, each railway sleeper top provides comfy garden seating. The beds have been cleverly constructed at an angle to avoid what could have been considered a boring or too ordered vegie space.

Good Organic Gardening | 27

GARDENING FOLK | Les Mulder & Annette Owen-Mulder

Annette has found that garlic chives are the best performers in her border experiment

Within easy reach of the home are the vegie gardens and small orchard. Even though surrounded by acres, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a modest yet highly productive space filled with seasonal edibles.

A most treasured peanut from the flourishing crop

28 | Good Organic Gardening

Water chestnuts thrive in a semi-shaded trough

Les Mulder & Annette Owen-Mulder | GARDENING FOLK Some of the elevated beds had whole untwined bales of hay stacked into them before being topped with mushroom compost, aged animal manure and other compost. Others were built in the lasagne method: layer upon layer of hay, manure and compost. Plenty of hay was needed so they bought a large round bale from which to pick. Les said they bought “mulch hay”. This isn’t good enough to feed to stock and there was a drawback for the garden: it rotted quickly, which meant the soil level in the raised beds dropped dramatically. Les advises using first-class lucerne. Below the vegie area, three swales have been created. Each is about 45m long and 1–1.5m wide. “The swales are a wonderful and most important technique for rainwater harvesting,” explains Annette. “Our three capture surface water runoff and send it deep into the ground, which reduces erosion. The captured water nourishes our fruit trees, planted in what’s called the berms — the mound of earth between each swale.” In fact, she says, during a nine-month dry spell the fruit trees were watered only three times, so the swales did their job to keep moisture in the root zones. Fruit trees, including pear, apricot, apple, mulberry and citrus of all kinds, thrive in the swales. This industrious couple even relocated many of these from their Sydney garden. Vegie bounty includes capsicums, okra, onion, yacon (Peruvian ground apple), celery, herbs and loads more. “How good is our food?” asks Les. “When you lose a lettuce in the back of the fridge for nearly six weeks and pull it out to find it in much the same condition as you would buy it from a supermarket, you know it was better than anything available in any city.”

The first grape harvest

A pumpkin vine inside the coop delights the hens

Model management

Around the edges Annette has skillfully embraced one of the most imaginative and clever things in permaculture: rhizome barrier (or edge) planting. She says you learn in permaculture that edges are the most productive area of the landscape because all the nutrients you give the soil leech down. Unfortunately, this means a huge amount of extra work as any lawn adjacent to vegie beds will grow three times faster on the edges. “Our kikuyu lawn rapidly develops long runners going into our raised beds, encroaching on the garden, which meant we were using extra time and energy with the old whipper snipper or pelican sheers,” Annette explains.

After a gentle reminder from their permaculture teacher, Darren Doherty, Annette started use different plants they like to eat or use as mulch or compost. And it has been a success. Annette can now mow as close as she wants to the raised garden beds; grass is kept at bay and there’s a variety of great herbs. Plus it looks beautiful. The south-facing edges are planted with comfrey. With its beautiful pink belllike flowers, it makes great compost. When planted on a north-facing edge, though, it failed; it hated the hot sun and wilted, looking distressed and crisp. Thyme and lemon thyme instead occupy the north-side edges. The herbs are prolific, though they don’t stop kikuyu runners, Annette says. No matter, the thyme edge will stay “because we love it — it tastes great and smells gorgeous when you walk on it or mow”. Mint has been a success but the kikuyu runners got through and had to be regularly removed. With more pruning it may thicken up. Lemongrass and peppermint also feature as they use a lot of lemongrass in cooking, plus it makes great mulch and keeps out the pesky kikuyu. Annette loves the peppermint for its sweet aroma and hopes it will thicken up nicely over time. By far the star performers in the border experiment are the garlic chives (also known as Society Garlic or Gentlemen’s Garlic). “There were massive clumps around the back of the house,” says Annette. “They tease apart easily; you plant it and stand back and watch it grow. It thickens up quickly and the flowers are pretty, taste great and are wonderful in salad. “Importantly, this plant forms an impenetrable rhizome barrier, still leaving easy access to the raised bed.”

Fruit trees, including pear, apricot, apple, mulberry and citrus of all kinds, thrive in the swales. This industrious couple even relocated many of these from their Sydney garden.

Les and Annette’s Edible Forest is quickly becoming a demonstration permaculture/ holistic management farm and is just 10 minutes out of Wingham, NSW. Annette says their dream is to have an education centre where people can learn and implement the skills needed to created organic gardens and edible forests of their own. They currently host a number of field days in conjunction with Manning Landcare, focusing on Keyline concepts and permaculture design. Both make of point of thanking Alison Allan and Lyn Booth from Manning Valley Landcare for their invaluable support, as well as the many friends that mucked in. You can keep track of what Les and Annette are up to on their website, theedibleforest.com.au. 

Good Organic Gardening | 29

GARDENING FOLK | Jennie & John

Organic gardening methods pay dividends in this inner-city garden

Good enough to eat Words by Tom Remfry ennie and John wanted their inner-city garden to be both ornamental and productive, as well as beautiful to look at, but like many people they sought help with setting it up and ensuring it followed organic principles. In our organic garden-care business we are approached more and more often by people like this couple, who want to retain elements of their existing formal garden but also understand the importance of having edible plants and herbs.

30 | Good Organic Gardening

Our mission was to transform Jennie and John’s garden into an aesthetically pleasing and functional space, which included an edible makeover. In Jennie’s words, “We wanted an ornamental garden and to retain some existing elements but have vegies, fruit trees and herbs as an essential part of the greater garden scheme.” Despite the constraints of inner-urban locations such as theirs, lack of space need not be a hindrance to creating a beneficial, organic kitchen garden when you use techniques such as building

raised beds and incorporating fruit trees among the ornamentals. For example, the pathway into this block has a low formal hedge but the garden bed has a nectarine tree and peach tree complementing the existing plants. These new feature trees are both ornamental and edible. When space is limited, as in this garden, an effective way of growing fruit trees is the two-dimensional espalier method. Jennie and John have espaliered pear, apple and lemon trees to perfectly suit the restricted space. As long as the branches are tied in a

Photos: Adrian Vittorio

This garden in the heart of Camberwell has gone from being merely decorative to an edible jewel in tune with Earth’s natural systems

Jennie & John | GARDENING FOLK

Jennie and John enjoy seasonal produce such as bok choy, broccoli, celery, beans, rocket, capsicum, tomatoes, lettuce, strawberries and a huge variety of herbs that add culinary and aromatic interest in the beds and the kitchen.

Tom adds fallen leaves as mulch to the raised garden beds

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GARDENING FOLK | Jennie & John figure eight and the plants are watered well, espaliered trees will fruit almost exactly as their standard tree counterparts.

Making it productive The raised vegie beds were built using cypress, a naturally termite-resistant timber, and colour was applied only to the outside, allowing John and Jennie to have a continual supply of organic vegies, herbs and other useful produce available throughout the year. The bounty of these two beds is quite considerable: Jennie and John enjoy seasonal produce such as bok choy, broccoli, celery, beans, rocket, capsicum, tomatoes, lettuce, strawberries and a huge variety of herbs that add culinary and aromatic interest in the beds and the kitchen. Our team uses organic practices combining permaculture techniques of companion planting and crop rotation. Jennie and John were keen to use these measures in their garden. A large-scale worm farm is used to replenish and feed the soil profile to keep it as active and alive as possible. This provides

Jennie and John wanted their inner-city garden to be productive as well as beautiful

32 | Good Organic Gardening

the best form of organic compost available to top up the garden beds when necessary. In addition, we have developed an organic composting system that allows us to recycle 100 per cent of the green waste gathered on this property to form rich organic compost. This adds value to the garden, keeping microclimates healthy, and really strengthens the natural ecosystem. For instance, if plant varieties that attract native birds are planted — predominantly native species such as callistemon and grevilleas — in addition to carefully locating low, shallow ponds or bowls, the garden can be a place of sanctuary for all sorts of important and beautiful animals, including butterflies, bees, dragonflies, praying mantis and katydids. Of course, the herbs

attract beneficial insects, particularly the pollinators, too.

A helping hand Many gardeners need a helping hand to get started in their new organic space and, as designers and horticulturists, we are qualified in and committed to organic practices and can offer clients the initial design service as well as garden care and a teaching platform. We aim to give clients an understanding of organic and permaculture principles. Jennie says, “We now consider the natural processes taking place in our healthy garden ecosystem and we can be more in tune with what must be done to maintain this equilibrium in our own garden space.”

Lack of space need not be a hindrance to creating a beneﬁcial, organic kitchen garden when you use techniques such as building raised beds and incorporating fruit trees among the ornamentals.

Jennie & John | GARDENING FOLK

Tom’s top tips 1. Establish a worm farm located close to your vegie garden. 2. Support your soil organically and appreciate it as a living organism. 3. Encourage native birds, butterflies and other important invertebrates to be part of your garden ecosystem. 4. Plant a variety of useful herbs that will reward you with perfect culinary and aromatic inclusions in cooking, teas and wonderful companion plants for your vegie beds. 5. Establish a compost heap, bin or other area to recycle your kitchen waste effectively.

The raised vegie beds were built using naturally termite-resistant cypress

One of the things we are completely committed to is ensuring zero carbon emissions in managing clients’ gardens by creating organic compost that’s available throughout the year to replenish and support healthy, living organic soil. We reuse all the green waste gathered onsite to create humus-rich compost so nothing is wasted or lost. This also means we can be certain that no parasites or invasive seed material enters any of the gardens in our care. This is essential if one wishes to garden naturally.

We carefully monitor and record what’s happening onsite so we and the homeowners are in tune with plant health, soil health and what areas need attention in order to maintain balance and harmony in the garden.

Feeding the family It’s not just John and Jennie who revel in the bounty of their garden. Their grandchildren can’t wait to get to Nanna’s place to check if the strawberries, snow peas, lettuce, carrots or nectarines and

peaches are ready for snacking on. They race to get the ripest and best fruit before anyone else does. Isn’t that what it’s all about? There’s no better reward for the effort put into an organic food garden than the delight a family takes in harvesting and eating their own organically grown produce.  Tom Remfry is a multi-award winning horticulturist, garden designer and director of Tom’s Secret Garden.

Good Organic Gardening | 33

AMAZING GARDEN | Grassmere The original Grassmere 1810 homestead still stands

Gardening time at the zoo Compiled by Tori Mason & Cathie Long

n a 15-acre section of the Nashville Zoo at Grassmere, Tennessee, tucked away from the singing siamangs (a type of gibbon), graceful giraffes and trumpeting elephants, sits Grassmere Historic Home and Farm. The original 1810 homestead, which belonged to five generations of one family, still stands like a sentry guarding what has developed around it. In 1964, family descendants Margaret and Elise Croft deeded their family home and 300-acre farm,

34 | Good Organic Gardening

Grassmere, to the Children’s Museum of Nashville. Their wish was that the land would be used as a nature centre, educating the people of Nashville about animals, nature and farming. After Elise’s death in 1985, the museum began development of a wildlife park according to the sisters’ wishes. They opened Grassmere Wildlife Park in 1990. Financial difficulties forced the museum to close the wildlife park in 1995 and turn over ownership of the property to the city of

Nashville. Still bound by the will of the Croft sisters, city officials then invited Nashville Zoo to relocate from where they were north of the city to the Grassmere property and to manage the site. Since 1997, Nashville Zoo has been committed to building a first-class zoo on the property. In 16 years, with exhibits such as Bamboo Trail, the Unseen New World, Kangaroo Kickabout and Lorikeet Landing, Nashville Zoo has become the number-one commercial attraction in Tennessee, seeing over three-quarters of a million visitors

Photos: Cathie Long & Tori Mason

A zoo is a rather surprising location for an organic food garden, but the animals, as well as the humans, reap the beneﬁts

Grassmere | AMAZING GARDEN

Bartlett pear (Pyrus communis)

annually. Future plans include Andean bear and spider monkey exhibits and a multimillion-dollar African Savannah.

Grassmere garden

Photos by Diane Norris

The Grassmere Historic Home and Farm section of the zoo opened in 1998, with interpretation focusing on the late-1800s time frame, a time when the farm was at its most productive. A garden was essential to the original familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s way of life and Nashville Zoo wanted to re-create the gardens to highlight that aspect of farm life and educate zoo visitors. The Davidson County Master Gardeners, a non-profit organisation overseen by the University of Tennessee Extension Agency

and consisting solely of volunteers, agreed to partner with the zoo to develop, plant, maintain and manage the one-and-a-halfacre garden plot containing perennial flowers, heirloom vegetables, an orchard, antique roses, medicinal plants and a culinary herb garden. This 16-year partnership has continued to grow and has developed into one of the most unique volunteer programs associated with the zoo. Through the years, the Master Gardeners have continued to improve and expand their interpretation of the historic gardens located on the site of the original family garden plot. Plants grown in the garden are identified with signage, either on small wooden signs

or hand-painted stones. A booklet covering each area has also been developed and a plant list is available on Nashville Zooâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s website (nashvillezoo.org/sites/default/files/ grassmere_garden.pdf). Gardeners are generally on-site three days a week year-round and will gladly talk with visitors, explaining what they are growing or

Tori Mason is the Historic Site Manager at Nashville Zoo, Grassmere, Tennessee USA. Cathie Long is the co-ordinator of the gardening program and volunteer Master Gardener at Nashville Zoo.

Tori Mason (left) and Cathie Long

Good Organic Gardening | 35

AMAZING GARDEN | Grassmere Faye Dorman and Jean Buffler, Master Gardeners, weeding and repairing the path in the medicinal herb garden

Most of their edibles are grown at home. Those they canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t grow (including meat) they source from the local farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; market. They obtain honey and dairy products from local farmers and friends. 36 | Good Organic Gardening

Grassmere | AMAZING GARDEN

An early planting of Kentucky Wonder Bush Beans

The recognition board shows contributors to and sponsors of the garden along with the 2009 “Search for Excellence Award” for the State of Tennessee - the Shovel Award.

Damson plum (Prunus domestica)

The gardens are active year-round; March and April bring a cool-season spring garden, which is followed by the summer warm-season crop and a second cool-season garden in September. working on and showing families the basics of how food is grown. Children these days often don’t realise that the grocery stores of today didn’t exist in the 1800s and most of the food had to be grown or made at home in order for families to eat. Each spring, the Master Gardeners offer their expertise in a series of horticulture classes. These free classes, held on Saturday mornings in March and April in the gardens, are conducted for anyone interested in learning more about gardening. Topics include seed starting, composting, organic weed and pest control, heirloom vegetables and use of culinary herbs. These classes inspire others to begin gardening at home and often visitors follow up by attending Master Gardener organisational meetings and classes. These efforts resulted in the Davidson County Master Gardeners being awarded the Search for Excellence Award for a Demonstration Garden for the State of Tennessee in 2009, recognising the garden as the top demonstration garden in the state. The Search for Excellence awards acknowledge outstanding contributions of Master Gardeners in their communities with projects

Good Organic Gardening | 37

AMAZING GARDEN | Grassmere Hot peppers are enjoyed by some of the animals and are also a key ingredient in some of the organic garden sprays

A lone eggplant with our heirloom tomatoes of all shapes, sizes and colours

that show significant learning has taken place, either by the Master Gardeners or the general public with whom they are involved. In 2011, the group was honoured to receive the prestigious International Search for Excellence Award at the International Master Gardener Conference held in Charleston, West Virginia, for the top demonstration garden in the United States and Canada.

Year-round organics The gardens are active year-round; March and April bring a cool-season spring garden, which is followed by the summer warmseason crop and a second cool-season garden in September. Many varieties of flowers, herbs, vegetables and fruits are grown and the garden is divided into distinct garden rooms. The heirloom flower garden contains a variety of shrubs, including a superb yellow-flowering forsythia and a stunning pink-flowering quince, with an understorey of bulbs, including daffodils, jonquils and snowdrops that remain from the plantings by Margaret and Elise. The large central garden is planted out with vegetables, including root varieties and climbers such as peas and beans. Handmade natural climbing frames have been crafted by the gardeners to provide support for these. Near what was the kitchen is an established herb garden — a kitchen garden. Here, culinary herbs are nurtured in a rich loam blanketed in compost. Medicinal herbs grow in a bed nearby.

38 | Good Organic Gardening

Giraﬀes are the happy recipients of pruned grapevines in the spring and elephants enjoy eating the hard okra and corn stalks cut down at the end of the season. In the autumn, leaves from the large ancient sugar maples on the front lawn of the historic home are added to the garden compost pile, providing rich composted soil and nutrients for future garden needs. All produce is grown organically without the use of pesticides or other chemicals. Companion plants such as marigolds, lavender and rosemary are used for natural pest control and layers of newspaper topped with straw help control weeds. Vegetables grown in the gardens include beans, corn, tomatoes, squash, okra, peas, carrots, peppers and watermelon. The orchard includes pears, blueberries, gooseberries, currants and Muscadine grapes. Garden members reap the benefits of their labour by taking home organic seasonal produce when ripe. The produce is also shared with the zoo’s animal commissary to supplement the weekly produce delivery and for use in animal training, enrichment and supplementing the animal diets.

In early spring the pink-flowering quince is ablaze with colour as a companion to the daffodils

Not only does the garden produce help offset the cost of the zoo’s animal food budget but feeding it to the animals helps clean up the garden from one season to the next. Giraffes are the happy recipients of pruned grapevines in the spring and elephants enjoy eating the hard okra and corn stalks cut down at the end of the season. The ongoing partnership between the Nashville Zoo at Grassmere and the Davidson County Master Gardeners is both successful and rewarding. The gardens provide invaluable opportunities to educate visitors about organic gardening methods used in the past that can be readily applied to today’s home garden, along with a tranquil spot to stop and recall the history of the area and enjoy the beauty of nature.  For more information, visit nashvillezoo.org or mastergardener. tennessee.edu/index_about_ mastergardeners.html.

TIME TO PLANT | Kiwifruit

Growing: Kiwifruit prefers a cool to temperate climate, growing best in a full-sun to part-shade, sheltered position with excellent drainage. Height: The most popular variety available, ‘Hayward’, will reach a height of 7m and spread to 5m. Harvest: Vines usually produce fruit two to four years after planting. From May to July, harvest the hard fruit and leave to ripen at room temperature or place next to a banana to speed up the process. If your fruit aren’t sweet enough for your tastes when ripened, leave them on the vine a little longer before harvesting.

Actinidia deliciosa

Delicious, tangy kiwifruit will make an attractive, productive climber for a trellis, fence or pergola Words by Chloe Thomson

t’s said that New Zealanders named the kiwifruit because its brown fuzzy fruit resembled their national fauna emblem: the small brown flightless bird, the kiwi. Sometimes also called Chinese gooseberry, it was introduced to New Zealand from China in the early 20th century and New Zealand remains one of the world’s biggest producers and exporters of kiwifruit. The kiwifruit plant is a vigorous, deciduous vine that loves a strong trellis or pergola to grow on. Strong winds will decimate your vines, so choose a spot in the garden that offers them protection, such as a north-facing wall or verandah. Extreme heat and over exposure to hot afternoon sun can also burn the leaves and fruit, so you may need to protect

40 | Good Organic Gardening

your vines with a shade cloth set-up if this occurs. Kiwifruit vines are dioecious, meaning plants are either male or female and will produce only male or female flowers, never both. To achieve fruit production you must have at least one male plant and one female plant, although one male can pollinate up to eight females. Training vines ideally takes on a T-shape with a tall leader trunk that reaches the top of the trellis or pergola. From this strong trunk come the fruiting branches, which will produce fruit that hangs beneath the leafy canopy. Despite their rather picky growing requirements, it’s great to know that pest and disease attack on kiwifruit vines is rare. Organic baiting or attractants for fruitfly will be required if you live in a fruitfly-susceptible region.

Tip Kiwifruit vines have very high water demands. During the warmer months, their leaves will droop badly if not given a daily watering. Consider having your vines connected to an automatic irrigation system to make sure you don’t miss a watering.

Health benefits Kiwifruit have more vitamin C than oranges and are loaded with potassium, iron, calcium, magnesium and fibre. The fresh fruit is delicious in fruit salads or scooped with a teaspoon straight from the half-cut fruit for a healthy on-the-go snack. Kiwifruit contain an enzyme that tenderises meat quickly without imparting its own flavour to the meat. Add some pureed kiwifruit to your normal marinade or rub a small amount of the pureed fruit into your meat and leave it to marinate for up to 30 minutes. J

Photo: Diane Norris

Kiwifruit

Sweetcorn | TIME TO PLANT

Sweetcorn Zea mays The sweetness and juiciness of home-grown sweetcorn is something you won’t easily forget. As each kernel pops in your mouth and the creamy, buttery corn ﬂavour takes over your taste buds, I guarantee you will be hooked Words by Chloe Thomson

Photo: Bigstock

orn has been grown for human (and animal) consumption for thousands of years. Archaeologists have found evidence that Mayan and other central or South American cultures were domestically growing and eating this energyrich crop as early as 6000 BCE. Sweetcorn is a tall-growing, vigorous plant that requires a lot of water and nutrients to produce the best-tasting crop. Sow the seed directly, in blocks or circles, about 30–40cm apart. It’s best to sow in this way rather than in long, straight rows, which can result in poor pollination. As your corn plants start to grow, mulch heavily around the base. Mulching is

important to retain the moisture around these thirsty plants, but it also helps to stabilise the tall stalks and feed the large stilt-like roots that will begin to protrude from each plant. Regular watering is particularly important once the plants have flowered and begin to fill their cobs. 

Tips You can improve pollination (and therefore your overall yield) by gently shaking the male flower at the top of the plant. This will release its pollen onto the female silks below, allowing pollination to take place.

Harvest: Your corn is ready for harvest once the silks have browned off. Gently peel back a section of the husk to expose some kernels and use your fingernail to pierce one: if it releases a milky juice, your corn is ready for harvest. If a watery substance comes out, leave your cobs on the plant for a little longer. Sweetcorn can be enjoyed raw, steamed, boiled or even barbecued. It’s a favourite with kids young and old, so make sure you put out plenty to share! Companion planting success: Some of the best companion plants for sweetcorn are peas, pumpkins, zucchini, climbing beans and cucumbers. There is even a technique called “growing the three sisters”, which is a clever method of food production in smaller spaces. The “three sisters” are sweetcorn, pumpkin and beans. Grow them together in the same bed by first sowing your corn seed. Once the plants have reached 15cm high, sow four or five climbing bean seeds around the base of each plant. Finally, sow one or two pumpkin seeds per bed. As the corn grows tall, it provides a climbing structure for the beans and the corn canopy provides shelter for the growing pumpkin vine, which in turn helps to suppress weeds. This three sisters growing looks incredibly impressive and is worth trying in your patch. Fertilising: Prepare the ground before planting sweetcorn by digging through compost and well-rotted organic chook manure or blood and bone. Top up with a second application of manure or certified organic fertiliser pellets when you mulch the growing plants. Growing conditions: Sweetcorn can be grown in all areas of Australia. In cool and temperate regions, plant sweetcorn in spring and summer. In the subtropics, sow in all seasons except winter; in the tropics, plant during the dry season (from autumn to winter). Height: There’s a range of hybrid and heirloom varieties to choose from, but most will reach a height of 1.5–2.5m.

Good Organic Gardening | 41

THINGS TO DO | Mid-winter

July As July rolls around, winter gardening is deﬁnitely on the agenda. Even in normally mild areas, the weather has taken on a winter chill. While it may be cold outdoors, a change in season also has great beneﬁts for gardens By Jennifer Stackhouse Vegetables

winter areas, look for low-chill varieties to suit the climatic conditions.

COOL & TEMPERATE In many ways, winter is one of the best times to grow crops. Pests and diseases are less of a problem than during the warmer times of the year and the mild temperatures mean the plants, too, come under less stress than spring and summer crops. For a productive but trouble-free vegie patch over winter, concentrate on fast-cropping snow peas and Asian greens, such as Chinese cabbage and bok choy, along with traditional crops such as English spinach. Keep everything humming along with weekly feeds of an organic liquid fertiliser and handpick and squash any green caterpillars that arrive to munch on your plants.

Fruit COOL & TEMPERATE Cold weather is vital for the production of crops on most deciduous fruit trees. The frosts and cold spells that can damage subtropical fruiting plants grown in colder climates actually encourage development of flowers and future crops in deciduous

42 | Good Organic Gardening

Compost & soil

plants. This is because many of these trees have a built-in “safety switch” that allows them to time blossoming and growth to coincide with the end of the cold weather and the beginning of spring. Deciduous fruit trees, including apples, pears and peaches, need to experience several hundred to more than 1000 hours of chilling (accumulated temperatures below 7°C), the number of hours varying with the variety grown. In milder

COOL & TEMPERATE As temperatures cool, rates of composting slow down. To keep compost systems working through winter, regularly aerate the heap. If you’ve added large amounts of autumn leaves, balance this dry, carbon-rich material with nitrogen-rich matter such as lawn clippings, manure and kitchen scraps. This is also the time of the year when rodents may set up home in the comparative warmth of the compost heap. Keep them at bay by putting a lid on your bin. Prevent animals burrowing in by burying a barrier in the soil around the heap. TROPICAL Use the cooler, drier time of the year to work on improving soil fertility. Dig compost and aged manure into areas you are preparing for planting. Cover fallow areas with mulch or sow a green manure crop such as clover, which not only keeps the weeds away but can be dug into the soil to improve its nutrients for spring growth. 

Photos : Bigstock, 123RF & Diane Norris

TROPICAL Although it is mild, it is also dry in many areas as this is the depth of the dry season for Australia’s tropical zones. If you have the water to spare, grow a wide range of vegetables, including beetroot, sweetcorn and tomatoes.

TROPICAL Keep an eye on fruit trees with crops ripening through winter. Fruit flies will be around, so keep baits refreshed and cover any ripening fruit clusters with fruit-fly exclusion bags. For a quick burst of flavour, plant strawberries now.

Late Autumn | THINGS TO DO

2 3

5 1. In tropical zones itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth planting strawberries now 2. For a productive vegie patch over winter, in temperate areas, plant snow peas and Asian greens 3. Plant beetroot seedlings now in tropical zones 4. Add nitrogen-rich matter such as lawn clippings, manure and kitchen scraps to your compost heap 5. Sweetcorn can be planted (best in blocks) in warmer areas 6. Cold weather encourages development of flowers in deciduous fruit trees 4 6

Good Organic Gardening | 43

THINGS TO DO | Late winter

August Late winter is a changeable time of the year. Often it can be the coldest month, but cold spells may give way to bursts of warm, spring-like weather that demand you to step outdoors to plant, prune and tidy as the garden erupts into life By Jennifer Stackhouse TROPICAL Feed citrus this month using an organic citrus food and continue to deeply water fruiting trees. Apply citrus food according to the recommended amounts. If applying fertiliser to potted plants, use smaller amounts on a monthly basis. Check grafted plants, such as citrus and passionfruit, for signs of understock shooting from below the graft. These suckers should be carefully rubbed off with your fingers to keep the main part of the tree healthy.

Vegetables COOL & TEMPERATE This is a good time of the year to plant perennial vegetable crops such as the handsome globe artichokes and tender asparagus. Prepare the soil thoroughly before planting crowns (the name for the dormant roots of perennial plants) by digging aged manure and compost through the bed. Also plan ahead by starting off seeds for summer plants such as tomato and capsicum. Don’t plant out seedlings unless the soil has warmed and there’s no threat of frost.

Fruit COOL & TEMPERATE Plant and protect are the catchwords for August in the orchard. Plant bare-

44 | Good Organic Gardening

COOL & TEMPERATE Use the cooler times to do garden maintenance. Many garden pests overwinter in soil, debris and around the base of trees. Removing weeds and reducing hiding places for pesky snails and slugs can pay dividends now. Check under pot rims and any overhanging stones for snails. Also look for them after rain, particularly in the evening. 1

rooted trees this month and stake new plantings well to protect them from winds and root disturbance. Also apply organic winter sprays now to protect trees from disease and pests in the months ahead. Use preparations based on lime or copper to control leaf curl on peaches and other diseases of stone fruits.

TROPICAL Dig in green manure crops that have been growing through winter. Hoeing over soils where weeds are germinating can also reduce future weeding problems. Sweet potato (which can be planted now, see page 86) forms an excellent living mulch over soils to help protect them from erosion when the rains return. 

Photos: Bigstock, 123RF & Diane Norris

TROPICAL Many vegetables are in peak production right now so keep watering and liquid feeding to keep them producing. Pay particular attention to leafy greens such as Asian greens, lettuce, herbs and silver beet, as moisture and nutrient stresses can lead to bolting (the premature growth of flowers and seeds). If leafy crops have bolted, sow more seeds for a second crop. It’s a good time now to lift and divide chives. Plant beans, including borlotti and snake beans, along with more tomatoes and capsicum.

Compost & soil

2 3 4

1. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the right time in tropical areas to lift and divide chives 2. Stake new plantings including newly planted fruit trees as well as vegies 3. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good time of the year to plant handsome globe artichokes in temperate zones 4. Keep watering and liquid feeding particularly leafy Asian greens 5. Plant tender asparagus now but prepare the soil thoroughly before planting crowns 6. Beans, including these handsome Borlotti, can be planted in warm climates

5 6

Good Organic Gardening | 45

THE UNDERGROUND | Fertilisers Allowing chooks to free-range guarantees pest control, weed removal, soil aeration and fertiliser deposits - all done gratis

KEEPING IT

ORGANIC Words by Claire Bickle he main reasons most of us grow our own fruit, herbs and vegetables are fairly simple: freshness, to grow items not readily available for sale, fun, exercise, self-sufficiency and knowing our food is organically produced from seed to table. So what can you use in the way of fertilisers on your productive home garden and still be confident it’s all organic with no nasties added which, in turn, could flow on to you and your family?

46 | Good Organic Gardening

It’s important to check when you are buying fertilisers and gardening-related products that they have been organically certified. Many products can seem to be organic because of deceptive wording or packaging. There are several certifying bodies within Australia and each has its own symbol that will be visible on the packaging, so keep an eye out for it. Of course, if you are making or collecting your own fertiliser, whether it’s liquid brews, compost or animal manure, keep in mind a few important things: Have these plants

been organically grown? What has the livestock been eating and have they been on antibiotics? This is also important to consider when collecting manures from other sources, such as farms or paddocks.

So what’s OM? Organic matter (OM) is a broad term used in the world of organic gardening. Organic matter generally comes from the remains of anything that was once living, whether animal or plant; it can also be mineral derived. Besides adding much-needed nutrients to

Photos: Claire & Rose Bickle

There are many organic fertiliser options to get the best out of your productive garden

Fertilisers | THE UNDERGROUND the soil, organic matter in its many forms is vital for not only soil formation but also increasing microbial and beneficial fungal growth and activity in the soil. Creating a healthy soil means in the long term you will produce better crops and healthy soils make it easier for plants to draw up nutrients and water effectively.

Compost: homemade and mushroom Making your own compost is very rewarding indeed. You take recycled kitchen, garden and chookpen waste and turn it into good, rich, composted material that can be used to fertilise and add organic bulk to your garden. You can choose an aerobic or anaerobic process. Mushroom compost is the spent compost from mushroom cultivation: basically, what’s left over. Be aware that it is generally rather alkaline, so will raise the pH of your soil.

Manures

Fish emulsion is fantastic to water in new plantings as it reduces transplant shock

Comfrey is an essential for all organic gardens

Which poo is for you? Really, it depends on what is readily available. Cow: A great soil conditioner containing moderate nutrients, depending on source. Sheep/alpaca/goat: Comes as ready-touse pelletised manure droppings and has moderate nutrients, depending on source. Pig: Extremely high in nutrients and can burn if applied fresh but can be hard to source. Poultry: Very high in nutrients; will burn if used fresh and can be slightly alkaline, depending on source. Horse: Can contain and spread weed seeds if it’s from paddock horses; moderate to high nutrients, depending on source. Don’t assume it’s all organic. As mentioned, you need to be in the know about whether or not these animals have been on antibiotics or recently been wormed etc. If buying bagged manures, find out if they have been processed as they may have lost a lot of their nutrient value in the processing.

How good is comfrey? Sometimes called a “dynamic accumulator”, comfrey is a very deeprooted perennial plant that has the ability to draw up nutrients from the subsoil. You can either add the leaves to your compost heap or steep them in a bucket of water for a few a days to create a fantastic nutrient-rich liquid fertiliser known as comfrey tea.

Good Organic Gardening | 47

THE UNDERGOUND | Fertilisers Blood and bone This will give plants a good source of nitrogen, calcium and phosphorus but no potassium.

Minerals Rock dust/rock phosphate provides trace elements essential to the complete growth of all living things. If even just one mineral is absent or present in excess, the balance is tipped, creating deficiencies and toxicities, which can lead to poor plant growth, susceptibility to pest and disease attack and even death. Rock dust minerals are generally readily available and can be applied as is and watered in or dissolved in a watering can and applied as a liquid feed.

Liquid options Liquid fertilisers are generally readily available to purchase in bottles from garden centres and hardware stores, but if you have a large garden they can become quite expensive, so why not have a crack at making your own? Weed tea and comfrey tea: These are a breeze to make. All you need are some lidded buckets (the lids will keep the mosquitoes out while your brew is steeping), your chosen material to soak and a stirring stick. Pop your comfrey or weeds into a bucket filled with water, stir every day until broken down, then strain off into a watering can and apply to your gardens diluted to the colour of weak tea. Liquid manure: This can be created by placing an amount of manure into a bucket and filled with water or you can make a giant teabag out of hessian, put the manure or compost in the hessian and steep in a bucket of water. Dilute before applying to the garden. Fish emulsion: Basically mixed up, heatedtreated fish waste and byproducts, generally very high in nutrients and odour.

Liquid compost is gold in the garden

Other organic matter Other things you can use on your garden include wood ash (can be alkaline), guano (bat manure), worm castings and worm juice, leaf litter, trench composting of kitchen scraps, bokashi fermentation, green manure crops and allowing poultry or livestock to free-range whenever possible. The importance of caring for our soils and the health of what we stand on cannot be over-stressed. For many years the focus has been on the importance of what needs to be added after planting, which is important, but true success comes from having microbial-

48 | Good Organic Gardening

Scrumptious organic platter: (clockwise) Blood and bone, seaweed powder, compost, rock dust minerals and poultry manure pellets

Fertilisers | THE UNDERGOUND

Sensations from the sea fish emulsion and powered seaweed

What about seaweed? Seaweed is not really a plant fertiliser because it has limited nutrient content. What it does really well is act as a soil conditioner/tonic, stimulating soil life, making it easier for plants draw up nutrients from the soil and helping them become more disease-resistant by strengthening their cell walls. It will also help plants become more frost- and drought-tolerant.

and beneficial fungal-rich soils before we even start planting. Such soil brings success in the form of bigger and better harvests over longer periods because the microbes and fungi actually help plants to take up nutrients more effectively and work with plant roots in a symbiotic relationship. There is still much we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know or understand about these microscopic creatures and there are literally hundreds if not thousands that have not even identified or named. One thing is certain: adding organic matter to soil in its various forms helps to condition soil and, in turn, creates healthier and more vigorous plants. J

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SHORT SHOOTS | Earthy ideas

2 3

Top Tips Innovative ideas from a fresh, green perspective Words by Erina Starkey

Cleaning the field

If you have moved to a property where the garden hasn’t been cared for and is a weedy mess, one of the best ways to get this type of ground under control is to grow potatoes. Potatoes are an excellent ground cleaner due to the amount of soil cultivation required before and during the time they’re in the ground, as well as the soil coverage of the potato tops (haulms). This is a wonderful organic method for clearing ground, with the added bonus of a crop at the end of it!

Ready to rock

Rocks offer valuable habitats for a wide variety of insects, lizards and small marsupials. Rocks can be used to make natural-looking garden edging or clumped together as a garden feature, like a rock cairn (as seen in Good Organic Gardening Vol 4 No 1). As well as promoting biodiversity, rocks also work to moderate the immediate climate, radiating stored daytime heat during the night and deflecting breezes.

Save your spiders

A spider can eat up to twice its weight in insects every day, which can be around 2000 insects in an 18-month lifespan. Spiders are arachnids, not insects as commonly thought. They have eight legs and two body segments, whereas insects have six legs and three main body segments. Most are nocturnal unless disturbed and construct webs to feed at night. They are among the most feared organisms but their bad name is largely undeserved as they are true pest-

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control professionals and play an integral role in controlling insect populations both indoors and outdoors. Consider the benefit to your garden and home of this free pest controller before you brush away cobwebs. Don’t touch spiders, try not to disturb webs and wear boots and gloves when gardening, as some spiders are ground dwellers.

A gardening diary

Keeping a garden diary or detailed journal can prove a very useful tool in the garden. Recording what you’ve planted, when it was planted and the overall result achieved, good or bad, can allow you to evaluate whether it was successful and should be repeated. A spiral notebook is a perfectly practical option — or there’s a range of great gardening journal apps available for smartphones, which allow you to easily input data and take your garden information everywhere you go.

Fruitful gardening

Fallen fruit creates an ideal breeding ground for fungal spores and also attracts pests such as rats, fruit flies, wasps and possums. Ducks and chickens make quick work of leftover fruit and will also aerate the soil around your tree. If you don’t have chickens or other fowl, fruits should consistently be picked up from under the tree and put in the garbage. Don’t compost them or leave them under the tree. To avoid wasted fruit, many fruit varieties allow you to pick them in the early green stages and ripen indoors.

Contending with clay

Clay soils can make it more difficult for garden plants to grow, as deep-rooting plants are often unable to penetrate the spaces between the fine clay particles. Try growing Roly Poly carrots instead of regular carrots; they are round and delicious and don’t need to grow deep in the soil. Gypsum, sand or organic matter can also be mixed with clay to help create a more friable soil structure for successful growing.

Try a new herb

Most garden herbs are usable in the kitchen and there are many with interesting medicinal qualities. Consider adding yarrow, with its pretty white flowers, to your herb patch. A poultice made from yarrow leaves and flowers is known to stop blood flow from nose bleeds or flesh wounds as well as accelerate the healing of cuts and bruises. Yarrow is also one of the best-known herbal remedies for fevers and a homemade tea infusion will induce sweats that cool fevers and expel toxins. In the kitchen, young leaves can be added to salads or dried to add flavour to cooking.

Can’t beet ’em

Easy to grow and a delight to eat, beetroot is one of the best vegetables to have in the garden year round. A garden full of beetroot offers fresh and colourful baby leaves that are delicious in salads or the baby beets make a delicious roasted side to any meal. If you can wait until you get a mature tuber, they are ideal for

Photos: 123rf, Bigstock, Arthur Lathouris, Erina Starkey

Earthy ideas | SHORT SHOOTS

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preserving and can be used in sandwiches, burgers and salads.

crop. Place the loose seeds in a tightly closed paper bag or envelope, label and keep in a cool, dry place until planting time.

Seedy solution

After basil flowers, allow the stalks and flowers to dry on the plant. Then run your fingers down the stem to release millions of seeds for next springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Edible flowers

Edible flowers make an elegant addition to salads and desserts. Rose petals, jasmine, orange blossom,

violas, borage and lavender can lend their delicate flavours to sorbets, custards, jams, jellies, liqueurs, wines and teas. Marigolds, nasturtiums, chrysanthemums and pansies have a duller flavour but offer stunning, splashy colour to salads; they can also be used as garnishes on desserts. See more in Plant Profile starting on page 14 this issue. ď §

Garden all year round with a Maze greenhouse

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These top of the range, affordable greenhouses will enable you to grow all your favourite produce all year round as well as letting you enjoy gardening without worrying about the weather.

quote : at cheORGANIC8 ckout

The virtually unbreakable polycarbonate panelling and strong aluminium frame will ensure the greenhouse will last in perfect condition. To see the range of greenhouses and accessories available visit:

www.mazeproducts.com.au or call 1300 449 107 While stocks last. Valid till 30/9/2013. Discount on Greenhouses items only. Good Organic Gardening | 51

WEEKEND GARDENING | Straw-bale gardening

Way to grow Given the right conditions, straw bales oﬀer a cheap and handy way to garden above ground Words by Diane Norris

Straw mulching Straw can be used to blanket-mulch garden beds, particularly in the edible garden. Keeping in moisture is one advantage, but the straw also attracts beneficial creatures — the tiny earth-living organisms that are vital to soil health. Tip: As a good rule of thumb to keep worms happy, use barley straw. Surface mulching the whole garden can turn it into a “worm farm”, with 50–80 worms per square metre. You can “pat” biscuits of straw (the individual sections) onto the soil surface and it may take eight to nine months to weather, partially decompose and become greyish. Straw layering in a garden ends up like this: the top layer is surface mulch, the next layers become compost and the last bit, which is the thinnest, becomes really crumbly and is where micro-organisms and worms can live, their castings providing rich nutrients to plant roots. Mulching with straw, then, actually provides three different grades or layers of organic material from just one bale. And, of course, if you can source straw from horse stables it has an added bonus of aged manure — but watch for weeds sprouting.

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Straw-bale gardening Put simply, the idea of straw-bale gardening is to make a garden bed within a bale of straw. In other words, the straw bale becomes the garden pot or container and you can have just one bale or many. This is a great gardening method and particularly suitable for raising vegetables or herbs. Straw bales from wheat, oats, rye, barley or other cereals are suitable for making a garden bed; organic bales are sometimes available and worth sourcing. Straw bales can be arranged anywhere and in any shape based on available space, the type of plants you want to grow and the permanency of the garden. Also consider ease of maintenance, row width, sun exposure and access to water when designing your straw-bale garden space. Measure and work out how many bales you will need to construct your garden. Of course, modifications to this can obviously be made as you go. The advantages of straw-bale gardening are: Bales are about 450mm tall, 350mm wide and 900mm long — a perfect “pot” size and one that allows easy accessibility for gardeners who have difficulty bending over. Straw-bale gardening is a true no-dig gardening method. No digging or soil preparation is required because each bale becomes its own selfcontained garden. If using more than one bale, they can be arranged in any shape and over any surface. Straw bales can be placed on concrete, paving and hard or rocky ground. The bales are not permanent and can be easily removed at the end of the growing season or left in place until they start deteriorating. Used bales can be reused as mulch, added to a compost pile or spread on the ground to enrich the soil. Straw bales are a very inexpensive way to create raised beds for gardening. Local nurseries or large garden centres may have straw bales, while farm/produce stores definitely carry them.

Photos: Grady James & Diane Norris

ith its many and varied uses, including mulching, composting and more, straw is a useful commodity in the organic garden. Here, we investigate a handy way to use whole straw bales: straw-bale gardening. We’ll focus on straw only, as it’s preferable to hay, particularly lucerne hay, because hay bales are likely to contain weed and grass seeds. When buying a straw bale, check that it’s tight and held together with two or three strands of plastic baling twine. It should look clean and fresh and not smell mouldy.

Straw-bale gardening|

WEEKEND GARDENING

Step-by-step bale conditioning

Place the bale (or each bale if using more than one) so that the baling twine is parallel to the ground (ie, smooth straw is on the side of the garden bed) and make sure it is exactly where it is to go.

Days 1–3. Water each new bale thoroughly and keep wet for three days. It’s very important to keep each bale moist as part of the conditioning process. The bale will become very heavy when wet, so that’s why they need to be put where you want them before you start watering. As the inside of each bale begins to decompose, it will start to warm up — and can become quite hot.

Days 4–6. Sprinkle the top of each bale with one cup of organic fertiliser, such as pelletised chicken manure, and water in well. Do this for the next three days. Days 7–9. For the next three days add just a half a cup of fertiliser to each bale and ease off the watering as you don’t want the nutrient content to leach from the wellmoistened bales.

Days 10–11. Stop adding fertiliser but check that each bale is moist but not over-wet. Feel the top of each bale and feel into each bale. If it is still hot, keep checking until it becomes cooler — around body temperature, or 37°C. This could take a couple of days. Water only if needed.

3 4

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WEEKEND GARDENING | Straw-bale gardening

Planting methods Straw bales should be ready for planting three to four weeks after conditioning begins. There are two ways to plant the bales: make holes in which to plant your edibles or create a garden bed on top of each bale.

Pocket method: Create holes or pockets about 7–10cm deep. Do this with your hand, loosening and removing a small amount of the straw. Fill each hole with organic

Flat straw bed method: Create a “flat” garden bed on top of the bale by spreading a soil/compost/aged-manure mix on the top of each bale — up to 10cm deep is good. Work this growing medium into the straw in readiness for planting. Using a watering can or gentle hose spray, lightly moisten the whole surface, being careful not to dislodge the soil.

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compost or potting mix. The number of “pocket-pots” will vary, depending on what crops you intend to grow and the spacing needed for those crops. Water each pocket lightly.

You can plant either style of bale garden using seeds or transplanting out seedlings. The benefit of using seeds is it allows the germinating seeds to send down and form excellent roots. The number of plants per bale depends on the growth habit — ie, spread and height — of the edibles being planted.

Straw-bale gardening|

WEEKEND GARDENING

Straw-bale garden care Watering This is the most vital consideration as water leaches from straw-bale gardens quite quickly, so make sure the straw doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t dry out. Water each bale in the cool of the morning or evening. A drip irrigation line or a soaker hose system can be installed and set on a timer to make sure the garden is watered regularly. Add compost around each plant to hold in moisture. A foliar application of organic seaweed extract is beneficial, following the instructions on the packaging for maximum effect. Fertilising Nitrogen deficiency can be a problem for straw-bale beds because the microbes use nitrogen to break down the bale and some nutrients are lost from leaching. The older leaves of plants start to turn yellow or purple if there is a nutrient deficiency. Nutrient deficiency can be rectified by adding an organic fertiliser containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium throughout the growing period. Better still, add aged manure, homemade compost, worm juice or blood and bone to each plant in the bale as plants grow. Volcanic rock dust will also help to balance minerals. Because compost and organic fertilisers release nutrients slowly, they are most beneficial when added at the time of planting. Foliar

application of micronutrients can also be an alternative way to ensure balanced nutrition in bale gardens. Weeding One of the benefits of straw bale gardens is that they are relatively weed-free. But if weeds do sprout, simply pull them carefully from the bale by hand. Insect control Ground-dwelling insects will be less of a problem in straw-bale gardens because the bales elevate the plants above ground level, which helps prevent earth-dwelling insects from attacking. Also, the life cycle of some pest insects is disrupted because the bales are used for only one season. Still, keep an eye out for insect attack and, if a pest is found among the edibles, squash or organically control. Spent bales Bales will usually last for only one growing season â&#x20AC;&#x201D; sometimes two at a stretch. Recycle exhausted bales by using them as mulch in garden beds, loosening them up and adding to the compost pile or working the rotted straw into the soil with a garden fork. ď §

Safety When using straw, whether in whole bales or by the biscuit, use a dust mask. This might seem extreme but some bales are dusty while others may contain spores, especially if damp, wet or mouldy, and the fungi spores can be dislodged and breathed in, causing irritation, discomfort or infection.

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THE SHED | Pool conversion

Pool to pond Converting a swimming pool into a sustainable and biologically active pond is easier than you may think

omeowners who find the backyard swimming pool has lost its appeal and is no longer used opt for either covering it year-round or filling it in. Some pools become gardens, sunken patios or grassed play areas. But there is another alternative that is appealing and gaining momentum: converting your pool into a wildlife pond. Most swimming pools are overmaintained and under-utilised and, of course, there is growing concern about the chemicals used to keep water quality high and about wasting water. You don’t have to be stuck with a watery money pit or waste of space; you can choose to create a natural habitat that is environmentally sound, wildlife attracting and aesthetically pleasing. No matter where you live, local animals will be attracted to a muchneeded wetland home.

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Why pool to pond? Pools are high maintenance, expensive to run (both monetarily and environmentally) and time-consuming. Creating an inviting, natural habitat is creative, sustainable and rewarding. And it also provides a large source of clean, fresh water. It’s worth knowing that this pond conversion can be reversed. Converting a swimming pool might sound daunting, yet it is unexpectedly easy, though requires a lot of manual labour. But there are definitely wrong and right ways to do it, and expert advice can be the first port of call if you want to transform your pool into a pond. Here are the basic steps. Plan and design. Look at your existing pool and think about the best design for your garden space. Even a seemingly boring rectangular pool can metamorphose into a unrecognisable natural oasis or billabong, so don’t be put off by the style or shape of your pool.

Create a small-scale drawing of the new pond, taking into consideration your current swimming pool’s dimensions (including depth), the surrounding landscape and possible garden areas, while keeping in mind the safety of children, pets and wildlife. The right finished depth of the pond is something to carefully consider: up to one metre will allow you to wade in the water for service, cleaning, planting and cooling off. Features such as trickling water over rocks, little sandy beaches and other natural inclusions can be emulated from nature; all you have to do is look at the bushland creeks close by or search the internet for natural pond ideas. Of course, a landscape gardener can offer practical advice if needed. Turn off the pump and filter. If you have a chlorinated pool, stop using chlorine or salt. After a few days the chlorine will dissipate from the water, which can then be pumped

Pool conversion|

THE SHED

Something to ponder

Photos: Peter Brennan & Diane Norris

Here is how a naturalist friend converted her 12m long by 4m wide fibreglass swimming pool into a frog pond. First, the pool was completely drained. Once emptied, many truckloads of aggregate were brought in to fill the pool up to within 1.5m of the old waterline. This fill was then raked to a roughly level finish before a layer of woven geotextile (a mesh-type fabric) was laid. The geotextile was necessary to keep the aggregate separate from the top layer of coarse sand, which took up the last 800mm to 1m. This top layer of sand was where water plants would grow to provide a sanctuary for frogs, other pond inhabitants, birds, lizards and insects. Completion was close after numerous loads of fresh water were trucked in and carefully slowpumped into the pond so as to not disturb the sand. After a week or so to settle, aquatic plants were put in place (some remained in their pots to keep them contained) and the frogs came — quickly! The pond is now always full of tadpoles, frogs and dragonfly nymphs. What’s more, it has become a haven for birds, with seasonal visitors such as sacred ibis, lorikeets and honeyeaters enjoying the watery stopover. Garden beds full of native plants surround the pond.

out over grass, garden beds or into a holding tank if you have one. As a precaution, don’t use it on edibles or for drinking water. Chlorine containers, full or empty, must be disposed of properly. Contact your local council for information about hazardous waste collection days or disposal information. Lining considerations. If your pool has a plastic liner it will need to be removed. Concrete pools will need to be pressurewashed by a professional to remove traces of residual chlorine or other chemicals that may be toxic to aquatic life. Fibreglass pools need to be washed down with clean water — soft pressure-wash if you like. Call and expert. A pond will need a biological filtration system and it’s wise to consult an ecological specialist to establish the best strategy. Filtration happens through a reed or plant bed and the right types of plants and installation are critical. It is also a good idea

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Photo by Bigstock

THE SHED | Pool conversion

to seek the advice of a local horticulturist or aquatic plant specialist to find the best types of water plants (and those for filtration) that suit your region best. We featured the benefits of barley straw as a natural algaecide in our March/April 2013 (Vol.3 No.6) issue of Good Organic Gardening magazine. Mark out the pond. Using a rope or hose, mark the outline of the pond including space for the filtration system and any plumbing or other structures needed. Base layer. Once the pool is empty and clean, the initial construction can start. Truckloads of aggregate, with or without clean soil, can be emptied into the pond void. You can give the pond a contoured bottom by adding varying levels of aggregate mix. Shovel and rake, layer by layer. This can be pretty time-consuming and physically exhausting but it’s essential to get the pond foundation right and compacted properly. Each layer can be wetted with water and walked over (or hire a vibrating plate compactor) to pack it down nicely. Keep adding aggregate to within 1–1.5 metres of the old waterline. The base layer may take a week or two to settle and firm. Tip: Sandbags, half-filled with sand, can form a contoured pond bottom. Fill the pool to 1.5–2 metres from the old

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Swimming naturally You can have the best of both worlds and go for the occasional plunge in your pond. But if you want to keep the pool as a swimming pool, there are ways of converting it to be more sustainable and environmentally friendly, particularly with the installation of a biological filtration system. Expert consultation is needed for such projects and two leaders in the field are Phillip Johnson Landscapes, phillipjohnson. com.au and Peter Glass Pools, peterglass.com.au.

waterlinewithaggregate and rake to a level finish. Stack the sandbags on their sides to decrease in height from the edge of the pool to the centre, create islands or pond garden spaces. Once in position, cover with aggregate and tread down. Top off. There are two schools of thought on how to top off the aggregate base layer. You can cover the finished bottom layer with pond liner or geotextile fabric before adding coarse sand. This gives a firm base and stops the next layer mingling with or infiltrating the

Photo: Diane Norris

Pool conversion| bottom layer. Cover the entire area, including contours, and cut well past the outer edge of the pond. Fasten down with flat, heavy rocks (ironstone or sandstone look authentic). An extra pair of hands is a good idea, as is getting advice from a landscaper if in doubt. Whether a liner or geotextile fabric is used or not, the final layer is to simply top off with coarse sand. This sand layer should be about 800mm to 1m deep, providing a most effective and very firm base on which to wade, without sinking — as you may think you would. Tip: Remember to leave open spaces along the top where the inflow and outflow pipes, filtration and planting beds are to be installed. Just add water. Ideally, rainwater should be added to your natural oasis. Use tank water if you have a tank reservoir for garden purposes, otherwise you can truck in water or use mains water. Any water additives or impurities will dissipate from the water after a few sunny days so refrain from planting or adding fish until then. Place and plant. This is the most enjoyable part. You will need to seek good advice from a reputable aquatic plant specialist about suitable and reliable aquatic foliaged or flowering species to pop into your pond. Some plants need to be contained in their

pots. This will not only keep them in check but will also give you the opportunity to move them if required. If your climatic zone allows, ferns, orchids and other lush natives can be planted around the pond to add beauty and more habitats for pondside dwellers such as skinks and geckos. Read the plant label carefully, as some aquatic plants like to be fully immersed, some partially underwater and others float on the water’s surface. Other “pond furniture”, such as logs and arched rocks, provide sunning and hiding places for pond wildlife. And don’t forget that logs jutting out of the water and onto the edge provide ramps for wildlife. Tip: Put Besser blocks, bricks or pavers into the sand to provide different pedestals on which plant pots can be positioned. This prevents plants sinking and can add height interest. Fish and more. The biodiversity of your pond is crucial and you can, of course, add fish, aquatic snails and tadpoles, even though frogs will come quickly to your (their!) new waterhole. When choosing fish, always go to a reputable fish stocker and buy Australian species. Make sure, too, that the species of fish will not eat frogs, their eggs or tadpoles. 

THE SHED

Local council leads the way Ku-ring-gai Council’s WildThings program aims to protect urban wildlife and create habitat in backyards to encourage the return of wildlife. A current WildThings project is Pool to Pond. See kmc.nsw.gov.au/wildthings for more information.

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GARDEN SOLUTIONS | Pest Patrol

Camellias perform best planted in areas with uniform moisture, neither too wet nor too dry.

Flower power Keep your camellias pest- and disease-free with these safe solutions

Common camellia problems Weather: Frost: Icy conditions and frost cause flower browning-off and shrivelling. Lighter-coloured cultivars appear more affected. Plant in a position with a more easterly aspect and cover young shrubs with hessian or a sheet on frosty nights. Sunburn: Sunscald can happen to camellias planted in full sun. Leaves will become scorched and the whole side of the plant will take on a deadlooking appearance. Plant in a shadier position. Remove affected leaves as they will not recover. Add aged manure and compost to soil and keep well-watered during hot spells. Insect pests: Aphids: These small sucking insects usually attack new growth. They can be green, black or brown in colour and may occur on flower buds during autumn and even winter, and on new growth in spring. Squash

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Of course, as with all organic gardening practices, the vigour and health of the camellia plant starts in the soil and keeping it as healthy as possible. them between your fingers to effectively control small infestations. Carefully squirt with a strong spray of water to dislodge them. Attract beneficial insects to your garden that eat aphids, particularly ladybird beetles. You can plant flowering annuals and companion plants, and let herbs go to flower to attract these. Thrips: This pest invades our gardens in spring and early summer and can be controlled in the same ways as aphids. Caterpillars: Two types are found around camellias: the cabbage white and the light-brown apple moth larvae. Identify the caterpillar correctly first in case it’s a butterfly larva, then remove and squash. The biological spray Dipel may be applied. Scale: Scales are small, roundish insects that may be found on the underside of the foliage or on the stems of weak plants and those planted in heavy shade or very dry conditions. Scale can be white, brown or black. Sometimes ants are a clue as they eat the excess sap that scale exudes. Control of the scale will also make the ants move on. Eco-oil is the best remedy; it will smother the scale. Weevils: Garden weevil damage is easily identified by telltale scalloped chew marks around the outside of the leaf. Weevils are nocturnal and move under cover of darkness so a plank (50cm × 15cm) placed flat on the ground near the affected plant gives them a hiding spot. In the morning, upturn the board and squash.

Photo: Diane Norris

Words by Diane Norris ust as we practise organic pest and disease control in the vegie garden, it’s just as important in the ornamental garden to help protect your health and that of your plants and the surrounding environment. One of the most prolific and beautiful flowering plants is the camellia and, sadly, it is afflicted by quite a few issues. Don’t despair, though; these can often be solved with sensible and safe remedies. Of course, as with all organic gardening practices, the vigour and health of the camellia plant starts in the soil and keeping it as healthy as possible. Plant in a well-drained acidic soil, avoid wounding and fertilise properly. Camellias perform best planted in areas with uniform moisture, neither too wet nor too dry.

Fungal diseases: Sooty mould: This unsightly black sticky substance is really growing on the residue products secreted by aphids and scale. Eliminate the pest (see above) and apply Eco-oil to smother mould spores. Botrytis (grey mould): This Sooty mould is sticky is one of the most common and unsightly airborne fungal diseases affecting camellias, causing premature ageing of blooms and brown spots, especially in the centre of flowers. Cool, moist and very still conditions favour botrytis and can be enough to make this disease a big problem for home gardeners. Keep potted plants spaced and trim affected bushes to allow better air circulation, making it unlikely problems will occur. Camellia dieback and canker: This is one of the most serious of all camellia diseases, caused by the fungus Glomerella cingulata. Affected leaves suddenly turn yellow and wilt and branch tips usually die. Grey blotches appear on the bark and stem and then sunken areas (cankers) develop. Damaged plants show more symptoms during hot, dry weather. Remove diseased twigs by pruning several inches below the cankered areas. Leaf gall: This fungal problem is more common on sasanquas than on japonicas and happens mostly in humid, moist, shady conditions. It’s caused by the fungus Exobasidium camelliae. New shoots and leaves become enlarged, thickened and fleshy, and appear abnormal. The colour of the affected areas turns from light green to nearly white or pink; they rupture then eventually harden and become brown. Plants are seldom severely damaged. Remove and destroy young galls immediately. Rake up and remove fallen leaves and avoid wetting the leaves when watering. Root rots: Young cuttings and seedlings are especially prone to root-rot diseases, particularly when in potting mixes rather than the garden. Repot regularly, even if no increase in size is required (say, every second year), fertilise regularly in spring and autumn with a complete fertiliser, and maintain a soil pH at 5.5–6.5 to keep camellias healthy. Bud drop: Camellia flower buds may drop off the plant before opening or the tips of the young buds may turn brown. This is common with fluctuations in temperature or moisture. Freezing temperatures can cause buds to drop before opening, while hot weather during autumn and spring may encourage shoot growth and cause the plant to drop its flower buds. Avoid planting varieties that bloom late in the spring and plant in a shadier, cooler location to help prevent this problem. Other plant stresses from lack of nutrients, poor soils or drainage can cause flower buds to drop. Bud balling: This is a syndrome whereby buds form but don’t flower. Typically, the buds develop almost to the point of opening, then stop developing, go brown and drop off. Pick off the damaged buds and give the camellia a good feed with an azalea and camellia fertiliser every 6–8 weeks from about August right through to March. The plant can be transplanted to an area where it gets a lot less sun. Oedema: This problem manifests as numerous small bumps on the lower side of leaves or on stems. They first form as tiny greenish-white swellings or galls, then become rust-coloured with a corky texture. Oedema is not caused by disease or insects but can be caused by overwatering, especially during cloudy, humid weather. Water less frequently and avoid overcrowding plants to increase air movement. 

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FEATHERED FRIENDS | Pet chickens The Pekin is affable and inquisitive — perfect for kids

Chooks & Children Whether gentle Silkies or placid Pekins there’s a chicken for every child

62 | Good Organic Gardening

eggs and dealing with the inevitable death offer salient opportunities for talking about life, death and the role of roosters. Not all children click with chooks, though, so it’s important to respect this or you can put them off for life. Many will be frightened at kindergarten age or even younger, but will be confident and interested by eight or nine. Remember that pre-schoolers should never be left unsupervised with fowls or any livestock, whereas by mid primary school, children can be sensible and capable of recalling what to do if something unexpected occurs. The best age to introduce poultry pets is when your children are able to consider the needs of their birds as well as their own;

they can see when the hens are upset, acting hungry or appear frightened. Once this mindfulness is achieved, you know the birds are in good hands.

Bantam or standard fowl? There is immense variation in size among poultry breeds. A standard Sussex hen is a giant bird, too heavy for a child to hold, while a Silkie, also a standard fowl, generally weighs only a little more than a large bantam. There are lots of small Silkies around, though they’re not bantams. A bantam Australorp may weigh 2.25–2.75kg, while a Pekin, a true bantam (no standard equivalent), will weigh around 800–900g.

Photos: 123rf, Luke Mellare & Diane Norris

Words by Megg Miller hooks can make ideal pets for children. Obtained young, they are very receptive to training and will follow their owner around like a dog, endure being wrapped up in the doll’s pram and even sit on the bike and enjoy the wind in their feathers. It’s surprising what youngsters can achieve with their pets. There are lots of reasons why chooks make good kids’ pets. They are a suitable size, especially bantams, for children to handle. They combine the enjoyment of a companion pet with a key driver today: food production. Their reliance on humans for their needs and for predator protection helps children learn about responsibility. Hatching fertile

Pet chickens|

FEATHERED FRIENDS

Hand-feeding is always a good way to befriending chickens

It makes sense to get bantams if buying birds as kids’ pets because they are easier to hold and carry, and the petite size looks appealing. For the adults there’s the attraction of a smaller henhouse and yard.

Best breed The Silkie, though not classed as a bantam, is the top choice, closely followed by the matronly-looking Pekin. Both breeds are placid and gentle but the Pekin is a busybody with its beak in everything. The Silkie is a good starter breed and the Pekin perfect for primary-aged kids. Other breeds well suited to primary-aged children include the Australian Langshan and Modern Game. Langshans are top layers and will earn their keep, producing lots of tinted eggs. They are also popular show birds should youngsters want to take on this hobby. Modern Game are very small with long, elegant legs. They are easy prey for feral cats and hawks but even magpies attack them when free ranging, thinking they are

The best age to introduce poultry pets is when your children are able to consider the needs of their birds as well as their own; they can see when the hens are upset, acting hungry or appear frightened. Once this mindfulness is achieved, you know the birds are in good hands. competing with them. It’s safer for them in a covered yard. Moderns look fragile but are surprisingly tough, though not a breed for boisterous kids. The Indian Game, stocky, short-legged and rather comical in character, is ideal for knockaround kids. Indians will give a peck and can get a trifle pugnacious, but if kindly treated rarely show their dark side. They are suckers for treats, too. What about the ISA Brown? Many children commandeer a hen or two from the family flock and the birds become much-

loved pets. There are two stumbling blocks with ISA-type birds. The first is they can become overpowering, bullying children for food and relentlessly following them. Often this develops into obsessive pecking with many kids’ gumboots pecked right through on the toe. The other offputting trait is their short working life. ISA-type hens generally lay for two seasons and not more than three, after which egg production ceases. Some hens live on for a year or two after this but most fade away and die.

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FEATHERED FRIENDS | Pet chickens It’s easy to cuddle a chicken, like this Ancona, when sitting down

By contrast, many pet bantams live past 10 years and become beloved by the whole family, even being allowed inside for a cuddle and to watch TV. Dinky-di!

Key basics All family members should learn how to hold a fowl properly. Correct handling reduces flapping wings and scratching feet (see photo). Fowls should be fed a proprietary ration with the correct balance of nutrients. Chick starter is fed to little chickens; then after six weeks a grower ration is offered and, at around 18 weeks, layer crumble, pellets or a grain mix. Treats need to be kept minimal, fruit being best. It’s fun to spoil birds and offer rewards, but a grape is healthier than cake or cheese. Never feed fetta or meats with a high salt or nitrate content — they may prove poisonous. Fowls need fresh water daily, greens to peck at, some small hard grit (stones) to help grind food in the gizzard and shell grit for strong shells. Remember, you will have to enter the henhouse for cleaning and to check for mites. It’s more pleasant if it’s a walk-in rather than a crawl-in house. Ensure foxes cannot dig in, climb up fences or climb trees and break in. And don’t forget to lock the door come evening. Silkies need their crests trimmed intermittently (just on the sides) if sight becomes obscured. Toenails may need a cut if hens are not active. Don’t even consider males as pets for children — they are renowned for cheeky behaviour as they mature. Hens are quieter, more tractable and have the advantage of contributing to the household pantry. Pet chooks also provide fertiliser for the garden and are useful for cleaning up pests and weeds. Say yes to fowls if the kids express an interest in getting a couple. Worried about weekends away? The children’s friends will be queuing up to collect eggs. J

How to hold a chook correctly

Megg shows the right way to hold a chook

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Place chook’s belly on bent left arm so the breast is in the crook of the arm and the head looking out over the arm behind you. Your left hand is going to hold the legs securely, the thumb on the outer side of the far leg, index finger in the middle and remaining fingers around the outside of the leg closest to the handler’s body. This leaves the other hand free to clamp down over the outer wing if it looks flappy. Control over the inner wing is achieved by clamping bird to handler’s body. Usually chooks feel so secure they fall asleep.

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ORGANIC LIVING | WWOOFing

Fair exchange Willing Workers on Organic Farms (WWOOF) matches travellers willing to donate their labour with hosts who can provide meals and accommodation, with both sides beneﬁting from a rich cultural experience Compiled by Diane Norris WOOF (Willing Workers on Organic Farms) is a worldwide movement linking volunteers with organic farmers and growers to promote cultural and educational experiences. It’s based on trust and a nonmonetary system with a philosophy aimed at building a sustainable global community. WWOOF started in England in 1972 when the first WWOOFers spent a weekend helping on an organic farm in exchange for their keep. The organisation was initially called Working Weekends on Organic Farms

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but was changed to Willing Workers on Organic Farms in 1982 after people asked, “Why only weekends?” Today, there are about 54 WWOOF groups worldwide, with participating countries including Switzerland, Germany, Japan, USA, Austria, Korea, New Zealand and Canada. All the groups are independent but operate in a similar way by putting people in contact with each other. The basics are the same everywhere: WWOOF hosts provide food and lodging to travellers and students in exchange for 4–6 hours’ work a day.

WWOOF Australia Lionel Pollard started WWOOF in Australia in 1981 and over the past 33 years it has grown into an organisation that employs seven people and publishes a directory of more than 2600 host farms, vineyards and other properties all over Australia. The WWOOF Australia Book provides contact details and a description of the property, work to be done and accommodation and meal arrangements. The would-be WWOOFer simply browses the list, chooses a place they would like to go and contacts the host to arrange a

WWOOFing |

ORGANIC LIVING

The work varies depending on the property chosen. It may be gardening, weeding, planting trees, picking, pruning, environmental works, feeding animals and so forth. In fact, the tasks for WWOOFERs are as varied as the properties they visit.

Photos: Courtesy of WWOOF Australia

Host guidelines  Grow or produce crops, livestock or products according to organic practices.  Provide experiences to WWOOFers in organic farming and/or gardening techniques. Must not involve WWOOFers in any project involving the use of chemicals such as herbicides and pesticides and must comply with WorkCover Legislation & Occupational Health & Safety Requirements, including the provision of all Personal Protective Equipment (PPE).  Provide all food and clean, comfortable accommodation to WWOOFers in exchange for 4–6 hours of farming/gardening-type work a day.  Be an ambassador for Australia, providing a safe haven for WWOOFers and engaging in mutual cultural exchange.  Treat WWOOFers with respect and consideration.

mutually suitable time to visit. The choice may be based on geography (close to a route they are travelling) or a particular philosophy, such as biodynamics. It might be for a cultural experience or it may simply sound like an interesting place to

visit. WWOOFers live and work with the host families in the same way relatives and friends would as guests. WWOOFing involves learning about organic farming and environmental rehabilitation. Many of the hosts are

involved in Landcare and Land for Wildlife organisations throughout Australia. It’s certainly in the best interests of Australia to encourage people to travel within the country and perform these tasks at no cost to the taxpayer.

Mutual benefit WWOOFers have the opportunity to develop a greater understanding of organic, biodynamic and/or permaculture methods. They gain an appreciation of sustainability as well as an understanding of where food and other farm produce comes from and how it can be produced in an environmentally responsible way. They get opportunities to learn a diverse range of new skills and develop a greater understanding of living lightly on the planet. WWOOFers also get an insight into everyday Australian life and experience parts of

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ORGANIC LIVING | WWOOFing

Australia most tourists don’t see — which are often the best parts. WWOOF hosts benefit from the WWOOF program in a number of ways. They get free assistance with the labour-intensive aspects of organic growing and production and often receive help with special projects requiring extra hands. Hosts have the opportunity to express their passion and ideals about their way of life to WWOOFers and also to try new ideas and techniques that WWOOFers often bring with them from other WWOOF host experiences, or from their own cultures. A host has the opportunity to interact closely with people from other countries, learn about their cultures, including their foods, and make lasting friendships. As one host says, “I get to travel the world from the comfort of my own farm.” Hosts also have the opportunity to show off the wonders of their local area to their WWOOFers and create cultural exchanges for themselves and their children, who sometimes live in very isolated areas.

Becoming a WWOOFer Anyone over 18 can join WWOOF Australia and experience rural life in exchange for

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WWOOFers guidelines  Be a willing worker, prepared to exchange 4–6 hours farming/gardening/husbandrytype work for meals and accommodation.  Be an ambassador for their country of origin.  Treat their host with consideration & respect.  Must be able to cope with the physical and mental demands of the WWOOF experience.

WWOOFing |

How to join WWOOF Australia Buy the Australian WWOOF Book (this is proof of membership). Visit wwoof.com.au for a list of agents or join using the online order form. You will receive a one-year membership of WWOOF Australia (your joining date, name and signature go on the back cover of your book). Membership includes a small volunteer accident insurance plan that covers you while you are WWOOFing on a registered Australian WWOOF host property. You will be able to contact and arrange to visit any hosts in the WWOOF book during your 12-month membership and you will have access to the WWOOF online forum (where WWOOFers and hosts can connect). You will receive amendment lists via email, which include new and deleted hosts.

4-6 hours a day of their labour (depending on factors such as season, workload, quality of their work, accommodation etc). They will receive all meals and accommodation, usually in the family home. Hours can be flexible so WWOOFers have free days, with a maximum of 42 hours of work over seven days, but this must be negotiated with the host. The work varies depending on the property chosen. It may be gardening, weeding, planting trees, picking, pruning, environmental works, feeding animals and so forth. In fact, the tasks for WWOOFERs

are as varied as the properties they visit. Simply buying a WWOOF book makes you a WWOOFer. The book provides contact details for more than 2600 hosts throughout Australia. Around 270 of these are certified organic and the rest are traditional farms using organic practices. WWOOF hosts will check the WWOOF membership book against passport or other photo ID on arrival. It should be noted that participants require a level of maturity and independence to participate in the program. Due to the physical and mental demands of the WWOOF experience,

ORGANIC LIVING

participants should also have at least average physical fitness. WWOOFing can be done on a Working Holiday Visa, Student or Visitor Visa or Tourist stream.

WWOOF hosts The 2600 Australian hosts in the main pursue a simple and sustainable lifestyle. Many are permaculture enthusiasts; about 20 per cent use biodynamic growing methods and about 10 per cent are certified organic properties. Some hosts are alternative co-operative communities and a few are communal living groups. The minimum stay on a WWOOF farm is two nights and the maximum stay is by mutual agreement between WWOOFer and host. Most stays are for a few days or a few weeks, but a number of hosts encourage longer-term stays — up to as much as six months — usually after a trial period of four or five days. Hosts usually accommodate WWOOFers in the family home and treat them like family, so it’s vital that WWOOFers respect the hosts’ personal space and family rules.  For more information visit wwoof.com.au.

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PROFESSIONAL ORGANICS |Stoney Creek

Flax for health Words by Lindsay Hazelman ounded in 1992 by Fred and Coral Davies, Stoney Creek Oil Products is based on the Davies family farm near Talbot in the central Victorian goldfields, about two hours north-west of Melbourne. The family company originated as a value-adding business on their fourth-generation farming property and it now supplies organically grown products to the healthfood market as well as providing employment opportunities for the local community and ongoing support for Australian farmers. In the early 1990s, the Australian wool market had collapsed, leaving Fred and Coral with very few options. Fred’s off-farm work

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had slowed dramatically and they were raising a young family of four children. Necessity being the mother of invention, Fred turned to his silo (or two) full of safflower seeds and ventured into the oilseed business. Extensive market research in the early 1990s had revealed most nutritional oils on the Australian market were imported, expensive and of dubious quality. “I thought we could do a much better job,” said Fred, “particularly if we cold-pressed the seed at under 40°C and retained its inherent nutritional qualities.” By 1992, they were producing cold-pressed safflower oil, but the market seemed to be “going nowhere fast”. The oilseed environment was favourable to the development of new products, particularly in

Photo: Lindsay Hazelman

Stoney Creek oil products are made using premium organic ingredients and traditional production methods

Stoney Creek | Ripening flaxseed bolls in early summer

PROFESSIONAL ORGANICS

Fred keeps in touch with his customers at the renowned Talbot Farmers’ Market

Remnant Box Ironbark bush adjacent to Stoney Creek farm.

the burgeoning omega-3 market, so in 1994 Stoney Creek produced Australia’s very first certified organic Golden Flaxseed Oil.

Photo: Tiffany Titshall

Flaxseed oil Fred adopted the term flaxseed oil from the Canadian experience (there’s more flaxseed grown in Canada than anywhere else in the world) as linseed oil was traditionally considered an oil finish for outdoor timbers and cricket bats. In response to ongoing demand, Stoney Creek has continued to expand production capacity significantly and is now a major processor of cold-pressed edible oils in Australia. The company is recognised as a market leader for freshness and purity of product,

particularly premium-quality organic flaxseed oil and flaxseed meal. In more recent times, Stoney Creek has become highly sought after as a boutique oilseed contractor, processing for both the retail and food manufacturing sectors.

Sustainable farming Stoney Creek has always fostered sustainable farming and supports the rights of Australian consumers to choose foods that are naturally nutritious and not genetically modified. Fred has adopted a much stronger stance on conservation and therefore highly sustainable farming methods. Although the company adopted organic practices as far back as 1993, extra effort is now

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PROFESSIONAL ORGANICS |Stoney Creek

required to farm within the effects of climate change, implementing practices that can repair the environment while enhancing organic crop production. To achieve this, Fred is modifying old (and developing new) farming machinery and adopting newly developed pasture-cropping and minimum-till techniques. “We like to companion plant as much as possible by growing sub clover under the flaxseed to minimise weed growth,” Fred explains. Stoney Creek soils are a mixed bag, from creek flats to stony rises to shale ridges, so minerals such as such as rock dust and lime are added to the soil, along with a few biodynamic inputs. Fred believes this range of strategies “promises to enhance the soil’s organic health and reduce carbon emissions” and, in turn, will improve production and offer a degree of self-sufficiency in the provision of fuel from rotation crops and farm waste. Stoney Creek currently grows only about 20 per cent of its own seed. Long, hot summers and unpredictable spring rains have seen Fred rely heavily on additional seed supplies from fellow organic growers in south-western Victoria. And, importantly, Stoney Creek is concerned about climate change and the very real impact it is having on the growing environment. The intensely hot summers continue to have an impact on crop yields, but Fred is determined to play a leading role in demonstrating how a sustainable agribusiness can survive — and indeed prosper — in a climate-affected environment.

Growing & processing flaxseed Flax, or linseed (Linum usitatissimum) — the Latin usitatissimum means “most useful” — thrives in cool temperate conditions and is generally sown in early spring in south-eastern Australia. It prefers clay, loamy soil with lots of organic matter. Every Stoney Creek crop undergoes careful seed selection (as a condition of his organic certification and as a matter of

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Product information Flaxseed oil This is nature’s richest source of omega-3 (up to 69 per cent as alpha linolenic acid [ALA] in favourable growing conditions) and is therefore much sought-after as a dietary supplement, particularly in Western-style diets, which are deficient in this essential fatty acid. Our bodies cannot produce essential fatty acids (EFAs) so we must obtain them from food sources. Flaxseed oil contains both omega-6 and omega-3 EFAs, but it is most often recommended by health practitioners for its extremely high level of omega-3. Every human cell uses EFAs and cannot exist without them. Research and clinical experience demonstrates that omega-3 can have beneficial results in many illnesses and conditions: heart disease, cancers, diabetes, arthritis, asthma, premenstrual syndrome, allergies, inflammatory tissue conditions, water retention and skin conditions. Fish oil contains two other omega-3 EFAs — eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) — which are also essential for human health. When consuming flaxseed oil, the human body can convert plant-based ALA to EPA and DHA as required, similar to the conversion fish make when they eat algae. This conversion in the body may be enhanced by reducing the intake of fats high in omega-6 (ie, safflower and sunflower oils). All Stoney Creek flaxseed oils are cold-pressed, not subject to deodorisation or any additional refining and contain only 9 per cent saturated fats. Flaxseed oil can be added to many foods, including rice, soups, vegetables and pasta (after cooking) as well as salads, cereals, yoghurt, tofu, milk/soy drinks and fruit smoothies. Note: When taking flaxseed oil, consumption of other fats (especially omega-6 fats) should be moderated so that total fat intake is not increased. Flaxseed meal During the seed-crushing process, broken seed solids are presented as fat-reduced flaxseed meal. The meal is glutenfree and extremely rich in protein, soluble and insoluble dietary fibre and lignans (which the body may convert into beneficial phyto-oestrogens). Flaxseed meal is remarkably versatile and can be added to almost any food: sprinkled over breakfast cereal, natural yoghurt and fruit, or mixed in fruit smoothies. In a gluten-free diet, flaxseed meal can be used in fruit loaves, health bars, cakes and bread, and can help introduce different textures, tastes and nutrients. It provides a nutty-tasting, nutritious alternative to bran or psyllium products. Note: The consumption of flaxseed meal must always be accompanied by adequate fluids. For more information or to place an order, visit stoneycreekoil. com.au

Photo: Lindsay Hazelman

Broad Bean Salad, one of many recipes featured in Stoney Creek’s ‘50 Fabulous Flax Recipes’

Stoney Creek |

Stoney Creek has always fostered sustainable farming and supports the rights of Australian consumers to choose foods that are naturally nutritious and not genetically modified. philosophy, Fred will not sow genetically modified seed), with germination tests undertaken before sowing. Green shoots usually appear within 14 days of sowing, with delightful pale-blue flowers emerging at 6–8 weeks. And, even though each flower has a life of less than 24 hours, the crop may flower continuously over successive weeks. Seed bolls then form and ripen, with harvest usually taking place in midsummer. The seeds are air-cleaned to remove any foreign matter, then transported to the plant for processing. Cold pressing is the term given to the process of mechanically separating oil from the seed by application of pressure only, without the addition of extreme heat or any chemicals. Screw-type expellers extract the oil from the seed at a temperature not exceeding 40°C in a light- and oxygen-free environment. Oil is filtered through cloth filters to remove any seed particles and then poured into nitrogen-capped opaque containers. This method maintains the natural structure of the oil with all its inherent characteristics. Stoney Creek processes seed only in small batches, ensuring maximum freshness at all times. This is particularly relevant to flaxseed oil which, due to its high omega-3 properties, has a relatively short shelf life compared to other oils.  Fred Davies, fourth-generation farmer and owner of Stoney Creek Oil Products

PROFESSIONAL ORGANICS

IT’S BACK!

Stoney Creek’s top-selling premium Flaxseed Oil, Organic Golden, is back in stock. Cold-pressed in small batches for maximum freshness, Stoney Creek Organic Golden Flaxseed Oil is unre½ned and non GMO. It retains the delightful nutty taste and superior nutritional pro½le that distinguishes Stoney Creek from other brands. Available in 280ml and 500ml light-proof metal cans.

Photo: Tiffany Titshall

Available from your local organic or health store, independent supermarket, selected pharmacy – or stoneycreekoil.com.au

Healthy Farm. Healthy Food. ® Good Organic Gardening | 73

RAW Organic Oils The Every Bit Organic RAW range of food and cosmetic oils and extracts is the world’s largest range of fully Certiåed Organic oils. Sourced from Australian farmers whenever possible, and always sourced from certiåed organic sources; the RAW range is fast becoming one of the most recognisable organic brands in Australia.

Email: info@everybitorganic.com.au Phone: 03 9369 4888

www.everybitorganic.com.au

Eggs are simply the best. We give them the best certiﬁed organic grain – no meat-meal (unlike others). We value the welfare of our feathered friends; that’s why we give them an idyllic habitat with plenty of space to roam, lots of deep mulch to scratch through, shady trees and lush pasture so our eggs are nutrient dense and rich in omega 3’s. We run no more than 600 hens per hectare. Our hens are always occupied so we don’t have to debeak.

Happy hens lay sensational eggs.

For stockists and more details, go to our website:

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GARDEN TO TABLE | Four seasonal edibles

Grow, harvest, store, preserve and cook with recipes by Joanna Rushton

80 Radicchio Winter Salad of Radicchio & Rocket with Sliced Pear & Walnuts with a Citrus Dressing

84 English Spinach Grilled Chicken with English Spinach, Aged Tamari, Spring Onions, Garlic & a Hint of Ginger

88 Sweet Potato Winter Shepherdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pie with a Sweet Potato Topping

92 Rhubarb Rhubarb & Apple Crumble Rhubarb & Ginger Jam

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80 84 88 92

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GROWING

| Radicchio

Radicchio Cichorium intybus Words by Jennifer Stackhouse

f you want to grow a vegetable that gives salads a real kick, try the bitter, lettuce-like radicchio. Its deep red colour and tart flavour really stand out on the plate. Adding to the effect are the crisp white veins that run through the red leaves. Radicchio is a type of red chicory and a close relative of lettuce and endive. Like those edible, leafy plants it belongs to the daisy or Asteraceae family. Although it’s known as radicchio on restaurant menus and at the greengrocer, seed suppliers usually sell it as chicory. Look for it under either name when buying seeds.

Italian legacy It’s hard to separate radicchio from Italy, as that’s where radicchio and chicory are celebrated and relished. Most varieties have Italian names and some reflect the Italian towns where they have been grown for generations. Among the best-known radicchio or red chicory varieties are the round, red ‘Rossa di Chioggia’, ‘Red Palla Rossa’ and ‘Red Treviso’. These tight, drum-shaped heads are around 8–10cm across. For a taller grower, look for ‘Pan di Zucchero’ (“sugar loaf”) or an attractive form with spiky green leaves with a red centre rib sold as ‘Red Dandelion’. It grows as a loose clump to around 30cm tall. Some varieties are also sold in a mix, which may be called Italian Mix. Radicchio and other types of chicory

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Radicchio label Common name: Radicchio, Italian chicory Botanical name: Cichorium intybus Group: Perennial leaf vegetable Requires: Full sun to light shade, well-drained soil Dislikes: Dry conditions Suitable for: Vegie beds, containers Habit: 20–30cm high Needs: Friable soil, regular water Propagation: Seed, seedling Difficulty: Easy

can also be included in sprouting and microgreen mixes for growing throughout the year. If you’re not sure whether you like the bitter taste it might be worth keeping in mind that the bitter principle is what makes radicchio and many other bitter foods good for digestion and health generally.

Growing radicchio Radicchio grows best in the cooler parts of the year from autumn to spring with plants harvested through winter and early spring when their red colouration is strongest and the leaves are not too bitter. Without the chill, leaves may be green or reddish green.

Radicchio | GROWING

Radicchio is frost tolerant and can also be grown successfully in the warmer parts of Australia including the subtropics, inland and temperate coastal zone. In cooler areas, start radicchio in late summer so the young plants begin to grow in the still-warm soil. Hot weather or lack of water can make the leaves very bitter, as plants tend to bolt to flower and seed. To make the most of the cooler conditions, sow seeds or plant seedlings from late summer to autumn. Seeds are best sown where they are to grow, which means it’s important to have well-prepared soil to ensure they germinate. Add wellrotted organic matter to improve the water-retentiveness of the soil (and therefore reduce plant stress). Sow the seed in rows around 10mm deep then lightly cover with soil. Try to space the seeds at around 20cm apart to allow room for the plants to reach their mature size. If plants are too close, thin them out to the correct spacing as they develop. Keep the plants growing quickly with regular watering so the soil stays moist and begin liquid feeding as they grow.

Other ways to grow chicory Chicories, including radicchio, are sweeter if grown using a method known as blanching. This involves shielding the leaves from the sunlight either by covering the plants with an inverted flowerpot or by gathering together the outer leaves and tying them in a bunch to shield the heart. Tight, round varieties such as ‘Rossa di Chioggia’ have a naturally blanched heart as the outer leaves exclude light. Witlof (or witloof, which means white leaf) is a form of chicory forced to sprout in the dark from the roots of

a mature plant. To force the roots to produce witlof, lift the mature chicory plant from the ground and cut off the leaves so just the crown remains. Also remove the pointed tip of the carrot-shaped root to leave a cropped length of root around 20cm long. Plant these roots in a deep pot filled with moist potting mix so the cut top is level with the top of the potting mix. Cover the planting with another pot to eliminate light. In three or four weeks, the roots sprout to produce a sweet white leafy vegetable, also known as chicons, that may be served in a winter salad or added to winter dishes. As well as using chicory roots to sprout as witlof, they can also be used as a coffee substitute. The variety widely used for chicory coffee is called ‘Magdeburg’ and it’s available in Australia. To make a coffee substitute, the roots are dried, roasted and then ground.

Harvest, storage and preserving Plants grown for their bitter leaves are ready to harvest in around 12 weeks from sowing, although small, individual leaves can be harvested from immature plants. When harvesting the mature head, cut it so the root remains in the ground to sprout another crown. Encourage strong, rapid growth with regular feeds of an organic liquid fertiliser. Left to grow, the leaves become increasingly bitter. During summer the plants produce distinctive blue flowers. Radicchio can be stored for several weeks in the crisper section of the fridge. It can be eaten as a salad or the leaves added to cooked dishes such as risotto, where they retain their red colour even when cooked. The leaves are very low in calories and contain vitamins C and B6. 

Suppliers A good range of radicchio and chicory is available from seed suppliers, including The Italian Gardener (theitaliangardener.com.au), Green Harvest (greenharvest.com.au), The Diggers Club (diggers.com.au) and Greenpatch Organic Seeds (greenpatchseeds.com.au), which offer a huge range of varieties.

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COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Radicchio

Star ingredient: Radicchio

Winter Salad of Radicchio & Rocket with Sliced Pear, Walnuts & a Citrus Dressing Serves 4

Ingredients • 1 whole radicchio, leaves separated & washed • 2 handfuls fresh rocket, washed & ready to use • 1 pear, cored & thinly sliced • ½ cup raw walnuts, crumbled Citrus dressing • 1 tbsp white balsamic vinegar • 1 tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice • 1 tbsp freshly squeezed grapefruit juice • 1 tbsp fresh lime juice • 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice • 6 tbsp olive oil • 2 tbsp quality aged Parmesan cheese, grated • Salt & pepper to taste

Method 1. Save 4–5 of the larger outer leaves of the radicchio to form the bed of the salad on a serving platter of your choice. 2. Take the rest of the radicchio leaves and shred them finely. 3. Mix the radicchio, rocket, sliced pear and walnuts together in a bowl. 4. Put all citrus dressing ingredients in a jar and gently agitate, or mix together in a bowl or measuring cup. 5. Pour on the citrus dressing, mix through the salad and allow to sit for 3 minutes. 6. Arrange the salad mix on the bed of radicchio leaves. Serve at room temperature.

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Broccoli sprouts | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON

Good Organic Gardening | 81

GROWING | English spinach

English spinach Spinacia oleracea Words by Jennifer Stackhouse

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English spinach | GROWING

ow, don’t get confused. This edibles story is all about growing true spinach — not the slightly muscular silver beet (featured in our last issue) that Aussies usually refer to as spinach. True spinach or English spinach is a delicate leafy green that thrives in cool climates or through the cooler months of the year in warm and even tropical zones. Actually, even calling it English spinach just adds to the confusion as spinach, a member of the amaranth family (Amaranthaceae), comes not from England or elsewhere in Europe but from south-west Asia.

Health benefits If you ask just about anybody to name the health benefits of spinach, they’ll tell you it’s rich in iron. It was the vegie of choice of cartoon character Popeye, who ate it to make him strong. A good helping of spinach also provides vitamins A, C and B6 as well as magnesium.

Varieties Spinach varieties vary in leaf shape and heat tolerance. ‘Winter Queen’ and ‘Winter Giant’ are widely available and high yielding, but look for ‘Summer Supreme’ or ‘Galilee’ (a Middle Eastern variety with smallish triangular leaves) to grow in warmer areas, as these are more heat tolerant. Decorative as well as tasty, ‘Bloomsdale Long Standing’ has crumpled leaves, while ‘Bordeaux’ has attractive lance-shaped leaves with red veins and red stems. ‘Red Vein’ also has red veins in its rounded leaves. For small spaces, select baby varieties such as ‘Mini Baby Leaf’, which is quick to mature. ‘Bordeaux’ and ‘Red Vein’ can also be grown and harvested as baby spinach or microgreens.

How to grow Spinach establishes well both from seed and direct-sown into rows. Seeds can be sown from late summer to spring in cool areas but are best sown through autumn and winter in warmer climates. While spinach grows reliably with full sun, it can tolerate some shade, particularly from afternoon sun in warmer zones. To prepare the beds for sowing, dig in organic matter and an organic fertiliser and thoroughly remove all weeds (hoe lightly along the row). Sow seeds about 30cm apart and about 15–20cm for baby varieties. Seeds are usually sown in clumps, which are thinned as they grow. Seeds take around 7–21 days to sprout, so keep the soil moist to encourage germination. Once seeds shoot they are ready to harvest in around 6–8 weeks. Baby spinach is ready to pick in just four weeks, so it’s a good choice for containers or small vegetable gardens or to grow between larger crops such as kale or cabbage. Keep plants growing strongly with a fortnightly application of liquid organic fertiliser that’s high in nitrogen. Watch for snails and slugs (particularly on wet autumn nights) as well as caterpillars and mildew,

such as downy mildew. Spinach leaves may also be susceptible to leaf spots, but these rarely affect the flavour or harvest.

Harvest and storage Harvest leaves as they are needed (young tender leaves of microgreens or baby spinach can be used fresh in salads) or pull up the entire plant to cook as a vegetable or as a filling for quiche or spanakopita. Leaves are best eaten freshly picked but to store, dry the leaves thoroughly, place them in a bag or container and keep them in the crisper section of the fridge. To store longer, blanch in boiling water and freeze. 

Spinach label Common names: English spinach, spinach Botanical name: Spinacia oleracea Group: Leaf vegetable Requires: Cool conditions, regular moisture Dislikes: Hot, dry conditions Suitable for: Vegie beds, pots Habit: Annual Needs: Rich, friable soil, regular water Propagation: Seed, seedling Difficulty: Easy

Other types of spinach Lots of leafy greens have acquired the name spinach. As well as silver beet, which is often called spinach, there are many perennials with green leaves that can be cooked and used like English spinach. Many are particularly well suited to warmer climates where spinach is a short-lived crop. Ceylon spinach is a climber that grows well in warm to tropical zones. It grows readily from seed and its large heart-shaped leaves can be eaten raw or cooked. Brazilian spinach is a small, shrubby perennial for warm to tropical areas with crinkled spinach-like brightgreen leaves. Steam or stirfry rather than use raw. New Zealand spinach (Warrigal greens) is a native edible shrub found along the east coast of Australia and also in New Zealand. The small, fleshy leaves must be cooked before they are eaten. Perpetual spinach (or spinach beet, also sold as chard) is a type of silver beet that has very spinachlike tender leaves and thin green stems. It grows for many months and can be picked as needed. Surinam spinach (also called Philippine spinach) is a leafy, tropical plant with pretty pink flowers. Cook, as it’s high in oxalic acid.

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COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | English spinach

Star ingredient: English spinach

Grilled Chicken with English Spinach, Aged Tamari, Spring Onions, Garlic & a Hint of Ginger Serves 2–4

Ingredients

Method

• 3 chicken thighs, cut into cubes • 1 tbsp olive oil • 1 tsp fresh lemon thyme • Cracked black pepper • Celtic sea salt • 2 tbsp virgin coconut oil • 1 clove garlic, finely chopped • Small knob ginger, peeled & thinly sliced • 1 bunch spring onions, washed & sliced • 2 bunches English spinach, washed & roots removed • 1 tbsp aged tamari soy sauce • 2 tsp raw honey • Sprigs coriander to garnish

1. Marinate the cubed chicken in olive oil, lemon thyme, black pepper and salt. Divide the chicken cubes between two skewers. 2. Grill the chicken on a cast-iron grill plate over a medium heat for about 4–5 minutes each side. 3. Meanwhile, heat the coconut oil in a large saucepan and sauté the garlic, ginger and spring onions for 3–5 minutes until soft without colour. 4. Add the English spinach and toss through using tongs, until the spinach begins to wilt. 5. Mix the tamari and honey together and pour over the spinach, again using tongs to mix through. 6. Serve the English spinach on a plate or platter with the grilled skewered chicken on top and garnish with a sprig of coriander.

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Good Organic Gardening | 85

GROWING | Sweet potato

Sweet potato Ipomoea batatas Words by Jennifer Stackhouse

sweet potato isn’t the most attractive vegetable but the plant it comes from is surprisingly dainty, with green, heart-shaped leaves and small white or pink flowers. The plant forms a lush vine that scrambles over the ground. Where it forms roots, the tubers we know as sweet potatoes grow beneath the soil surface. Sweet potato is an edible form of a weedy plant that may already be growing along your back fence. Morning glory, with its striking blue flowers is, like sweet potato, a type of Ipomoea. Both are part of the convolvulus family (Convolvulaceae). Sweet potato is sometimes called yam and thought of as a tropical vegetable from the Pacific Islands, but sweet potatoes are native to Central or South America. They spread from these regions across the Pacific perhaps more than 1000 years ago. As well as being known as yam, sweet potato is sometimes called by the Maori name kumara, as sweet potato is grown widely in New Zealand.

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Health benefits Sweet potato has had a huge makeover in recent years. When I was growing up it was the slightly off-white vegie that came with potato, pumpkin and carrot on the plate with the Sunday roast. Today, most of the sweet potato sold in greengrocers and farmers’ markets and grown in gardens has orange flesh. And, while it is still served as a sweet roast vegetable, it has found its way into everything from mashes and curries to soups and even warm salads. Sweet potato can also be made into sweet desserts and brewed up as an alcoholic drink. It has also picked up a reputation as a very healthy food choice, as it’s low GI yet full of nutrients, including betacarotene, as well as a top source of dietary fibre. Body builders wolf it down, as do those on low-carbohydrate diets.

Varieties The traditional white or grey-fleshed sweet potato can be hard to find but is available from online suppliers as ‘Northern Star’.

Sweet potato | GROWING

The orange-fleshed form is now most commonly available. A good orange form is sold as ‘Beauregard’. Many varieties, however, are nameless. Growers of unusual vegetables may like to seek out the purple sweet potato, a variety commonly found throughout Asia.

How to grow Sweet potato is planted in spring and grown for at least five to six months, from spring to autumn. It grows best in tropical, subtropical and temperate zones as it needs a long warm period for the tubers to mature. In cold and inland regions, cold weather or frost may kill the vine before the tubers have reached an edible size. You can grow sweet potatoes by planting sprouted tubers, but it’s far more sensible to grow new vines from the sprouts themselves. In warm climates, it’s also easy to take tip cuttings as the plants grow and use these to start new plants. Tubers may sprout unaided but they can be helped along if placed in a box filled with damp sand (cover the tubers with about 5cm of sand) and allowed to stand in a warm spot. Start the sprouts in late winter for planting in mid-spring when the sprouts have reached about 30cm long. Cut the sprouted tuber into sections ready for planting. One vine can cover more than three metres if given free rein but, if you’re growing sweet potato in a vegetable garden, space the sprouts or cuttings about 40–50cm apart in rows 90–100cm apart. Set the sprouts about 5–7cm deep to make sure several nodes are covered with soil to allow the all-important root system to form. To grow large tubers, discourage the vine from forming roots as it spreads out. In cold areas or where space is at a premium, sweet potatoes can also be grown successfully in a large container — a 40cm-diameter pot can support one plant. Train the vine to grow vertically, rather than allow it to trail along the ground, by inserting a climbing frame or a tripod of three tall stakes pushed into the pot. Whether they are in the ground or in a pot, keep the plants growing well with regular watering if conditions are dry. Keep plants free of competing weeds until they smother the ground, which is when their foliage becomes living mulch. Provided fertiliser was applied to the soil at planting, no extra feeding should be needed; however, an occasional liquid feeding will help pot-grown plants.

easily and damaged tubers don’t store well. If the tubers are growing in a pot, simply tip the contents out carefully to harvest the tubers. Allow the tubers to dry for a few days, wipe them free of soil and store in a cool, dark place for up to a month.  Tip: Excess leafy growth from sweet potato vines can be pulled up through summer and autumn and fed to the chooks.

Sweet potato label Common name: Sweet potato, kumara Botanical name: Ipomoea batatas Group: Root vegetable Requires: Full sun; deep, well-drained soil Dislikes: Frost Suitable for: Vegie beds, large pots Habit: Perennial ground cover Needs: Friable soil, regular water Propagation: Tuber, cutting Difficulty: Easy

Harvest and storage As autumn arrives and temperatures drop, it’s time to harvest the sweet potatoes. The vines may have begun to yellow and die back. A single frost is enough to kill off even a well-established vine. Gently pull or dig up the vine, taking care not to damage or break the tubers. They bruise and break

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COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Sweet potato

Star ingredient: Sweet potato

Winter Shepherd’s Pie with a Sweet Potato Topping Serves 4–8

Ingredients

Method

• 2 tbsp olive oil • 2 cloves garlic, crushed • 2 onions, diced • 300g minced beef • 1 tbsp tomato paste • 1 tbsp mixed dried herbs (eg rosemary and oregano) • 1 400g tin diced tomato • 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce • 1 cup fresh or frozen peas • 2 large or 4 small sweet potatoes, peeled & chopped • 60g butter • salt & pepper

1. Preheat oven to 160°C. 2. Heat olive oil over a medium heat and sauté garlic and onions until soft without colour. 3. Add the minced beef and mix through until the texture of the meat begins to crumble. 4. Add tomato paste, herbs, tinned tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce and peas. Mix through and leave to simmer for 15 minutes. 5. Meanwhile, steam sweet potatoes until soft, then transfer them to a food processor or use a masher. Blend or mash until smooth, add butter and season with salt and pepper. 6. Transfer meat mixture into an ovenproof Pyrex baking dish approx 34cm × 22cm and 5cm deep. Spread sweet potato over the top and season with cracked black pepper. 7. Bake in preheated oven at 160°C for 15 minutes or until potato starts to brown.

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Silver beet | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON

o Jo's Tip You can always add some grated cheddar on top and bake until cheese melts and starts to turn golden brown.

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GROWING | Rhubarb

Rhubarb Rheum rhabarbarum Words by horticulturist, Neville Donovan, Greenpatch Organic Seeds

hubarb is one of those amazing plants that has stayed incredibly popular for many generations and gardeners still love it. It is native to Mongolia and prefers cool, moist climatic conditions. A hardy perennial with stalks ranging from green to crimson or dark-red, its stalks are edible once cooked and, due to their tartness, a sweetener can be added, making it a great option for dessert. However, the large, round, heart-shaped leaves are toxic and not edible due to their high oxalic acid content. Rhubarb has been used for centuries in northern Asia as a laxative and it wasn’t until the 18th century that it was grown in England and France for its stalks. Later on, its popularity gradually spread to America and other countries. Rhubarb has been used mainly as a dessert — in pies, crumbles or preserves. Usually, you would find it planted in the corner of the vegie patch or used as a short border. I remember my parents having a border of the ‘Sydney Crimson’ variety. My mother would roll out her own pastry and make rhubarb and apple pie, which was a simple but delicious treat. Many gardeners seem to have trouble growing this wonderful plant, even though it is truly easy to grow and, once established, will always be there ready to make delicious desserts.

produces a cream-coloured blossom that stands up to one metre tall. Several plants need to be flowering at the same time for good pollination as the flowers are self-incompatible. The dry, flaky seeds ripen in only a few months. Harvest seed at the light-brown stage and they can be sown immediately or stored in the fridge as they are short-lived. If seeds are not wanted, the stalk can be cut off to improve plant vigour.

When to plant Cool climate. Sow seeds after the last frosts and up until March. Plant crowns at the end of winter. Temperate climate. Sow seeds March-October avoiding the coldest part of winter. Plant crowns autumn to winter. Subtropical climate. Sow seeds March to October. Plant crowns autumn–winter.

How to grow Rhubarb prefers a temperate to cold climate but you can still produce good plants in warmer climates by providing shading from the afternoon sun and maintaining good soil moisture. The plant prefers deep, well-drained, loose, friable soil with plenty of organic matter. Dig in aged animal manure or compost around plants, making sure the bed is raised for drainage because rhubarb is prone to root rot. A slightly acidic pH of between 5.5 and 7.0 is ideal, which means it will grow successfully in average soil. Rhubarb requires regular deep watering in dry weather. Side dressings of organic fertilisers, such as pelletised chicken manure, blood and bone, compost or animal manure, can be used during the growing season when needed. If plants are growing well, avoid fertilising. Loosen soil by forking around plants periodically to improve aeration and drainage. When planting, space about 40cm apart to allow strong crowns to develop. Generally rhubarb plants need lifting and replanting every three to four years when plant vigour tends to decline. Crowns can be divided and replanted in a freshly prepared bed. Plants will benefit from mulching, which will protect crowns from frost damage. Spent and yellow leaves can be removed during the growing season by cutting stalks off at the base. Mature rhubarb plants will send up a tall flower spike in late winter to early spring. It has a creamy light-green stalk and

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Rhubarb label Common name: Rhubarb Botanical name: Rheum rhabarbarum Family: Polygonaceae Aspect: Sun to part shade Soil: Fertile and well-drained Climate: Cold, temperate, subtropical Habit: Upright Difficulty: Moderate

Rhubarb | GROWING

Tropical climate. Sow seeds April to August. Plant crowns in winter.

Propagation Seed Rhubarb can be propagated by seed or by dividing an existing mature plant that has an established crown (plant parts above ground level). Sow in a reasonably good seed-raising mix. Plant seeds sparsely in a container at least 5cm deep. Lightly cover with 8mm of soil. Keep the soil surface moist and don’t allow it to dry out. Germination will take about 10 days. Transplant seedlings when 5cm high into individual pots and allow further growing for 4–6 weeks before planting in the garden. You can also use the same method to sow seeds direct in the garden on a finely prepared seed bed. Allow plants to grow and mature for six to eight months before harvesting. Crown Divide crowns in the cooler months by lifting the rhubarb clump out of the soil with a fork or spade. A knife can be used to cut through the brown-coloured base, making sure to leave growing tips with small leaves. By reducing the number of large leaves, pieces can be potted up easily or simply be planted back into freshly prepared soil. Be careful to plant at the same level as it was originally. Keep plants moist after transplanting. Varieties ‘Victoria’ is a tall grower to 60cm with long green to red stalks. ‘Ever Red’ boasts red stalks that have a sweet flavour. ‘Sydney Crimson’ is a hardy old variety with red stems. ‘Wandin Red’ stalks are thick and red in colour. Troubleshooting Rhubarb is virtually free of pests. Aphids may appear in spring and autumn. Keep watch and wipe or hose off. Avoid overwatering as too much water will cause crown rot, so water early in the morning to avoid leaf diseases.

Slugs and snails attack plants in damp conditions. Keep a sharp eye on stalks and pick off, with gloved hands, any slugs or snails and squash. There are non-toxic, pet-friendly baits available, too. Tip: Rhubarb leaves make good mulch, preventing weeds from popping up. They can also be used to make a natural spray for insect pests such as aphids. Harvesting, storing and preserving Rhubarb can be regularly harvested at any time. Choose stalks with good colour that feel firm, and pick from around the outside of the clump. Avoid using stalks that are soft, pale and spongy. The stalk can easily be removed from the base of the clump with a gentle twisting motion. Secateurs will do the job as well. Trim the leaf off the stalk, removing the thin membrane attachments at the base. Rhubarb is always best used fresh but also stores well. To keep it over a period of time, start by washing and draining the stalks well. Place them into a sealed container or plastic bag to prevent them drying out. Store stalks in the refrigerator at 5°C for up to two weeks. Stalks can also be frozen raw, cut into pieces about 4cm long. Before freezing, rhubarb can be blanched to help preserve its colour and flavour. Simply cut into 4cm pieces, add to boiling water for one minute. Remove from water and plunge immediately into ice water to stop the cooking process. Remove from ice water, dry thoroughly and freeze in containers or bags. Preserving rhubarb is fun and it proves versatile in the kitchen. It can be stewed and eaten with custard or made into jam, jelly, chutney or wine. It goes well with a combination of fruits such as apple, pear and strawberries, and comes to the fore when sweetened with dates, sultanas, honey or coconut, palm or cane sugar. Adding spices such as cardamom, cinnamon and star anise or natural flavourings such as orange zest or vanilla makes it even more delicious. .■

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COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Rhubarb

Star ingredient: Rhubarb

Rhubarb & Apple Crumble Serves 4–6

Ingredients Filling • 2 medium green apples, cored & cut into thick cubes (leave skin on) • 1 bunch rhubarb, washed & chopped (without leaf remnants) • ½ tsp vanilla powder • ½ tsp ground nutmeg • ½ tsp ground cinnamon • ½ tsp ground cloves • 1 tbsp coconut sugar • 2 tbsp filtered water Crumble topping • 1 cup flaked coconut, toasted • 1 cup shredded coconut, toasted

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• 1 tbsp virgin coconut oil • 1 tbsp coconut flour • 2 tsp coconut sugar

Method 1. Combine topping ingredients together to form crumble and set aside. 2. Preheat oven to 160°C. 3. Mix apple and rhubarb together with spices and filtered water and poach in a medium-sized saucepan until apple and rhubarb are soft and tender. 4. Divide into individual ramekin dishes. 5. Top with crumble mix and finish off in the preheated oven (160°C) for 8–10 minutes to warm the crumble through. 6. Serve as is or add a dollop of organic cream.

Macadamia | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON

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PRESERVING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | rhubarb

Star ingredient: Rhubarb

Rhubarb & Ginger Jam Makes 6 × 225g jars

Ingredients • 1½kg trimmed rhubarb stalks (no leaf), cut into 1cm pieces • ⅓ cup fresh ginger, grated • 3 cups coconut sugar NB: You will need a jam thermometer

Method 1. Sterilise the jam jars: first wash them in soapy water and rinse in clean warm water. Allow them to drip dry upside-down on a rack in the oven at 140°C. Leave them there for at least half an hour while you make the jam. 2. Combine rhubarb, ginger and sugar in a large saucepan. 3. Stir over medium-high heat until the sugar dissolves and the mixture begins to bubble. 4. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium and simmer, stirring frequently, until jam thickens. Adjust heat accordingly to maintain a steady simmer and stir often during the thickening process to prevent scorching. 5. Cook for about 20–25 minutes, skimming and discarding the foam that collects on the top of the jam mixture. 6. After 20 minutes, test for doneness. To do this, turn off the heat under the jam and take the temperature

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of the mixture using a jam thermometer. The thermometer should read about 105°C when the jam is done. 7. Use oven gloves to get each jar out of the oven without touching the rim or inside of the jar. Carefully ladle the jam into the hot glass jars, leaving at least 5mm of space between the jam and rim of the jar. 8. Cover with lids and put the full jars in a saucepan of slowly boiling water for 10 minutes. Remove the jars from hot water and you should hear a little “pop” from the lids that indicates they are vacuum sealed. If any do not pop, return them to the boiling water and leave for a few minutes more. 9. The jam should keep for at least a year in the sealed jars if stored at a moderate temperature.

oJo's Tip To test doneness without a thermometer The day before making the jam, put a saucer into the freezer to chill. To test doneness, take the saucer from the freezer and place a drop of jam onto the cold plate. After a few seconds, push the jam with your finger. If the jam surface wrinkles, it is ready. If it slides about as a liquid, it should be boiled for a few more minutes before testing again.

Four seasonal edibles | GARDEN TO TABLE

o Jo's Tip Sterilised lids To sterilise the lids, boil them in water for 10 minutes (jars can be done this way, too). Use tongs to remove lift them out of the saucepan.

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Books | REVIEWS

Cover to cover Leaﬁng through books for gardeners and cooks All Things Coconut By Joanna Rushton, self-published ebook, $11.95 This e-book, written and published by our chef, Joanna Rushton, can help you make betterinformed decisions about your health, diet and lifestyle choices. Jo says after months of people asking how to make the delicious gluten-free snacks, how much coconut flour she uses and why is coconut such a superfood, she decided to put together a simple and easy guide to using it. If you have been trying to work out how to substitute gluten-based flours with coconut flour and still get a light, fluffy, moist texture, your answer is here. It also reveals all the ways coconut can be used plus Jo’s top 15 coconut recipes and great information about the benefits of all things coconut. All recipes are free of trans fats, processed vegetable oils, gluten, soy, yeast and artificial sweeteners. Available at energycoachinginstitute.com/store.

Healing Spices By Bharat B. Aggarwal, PhD, with Debora Yost, Sterling, RRP $34.95 In the right climate you can grow your own spices and savour their flavours and benefits fresh from the garden. This stylishly presented and detailed book is just the companion you need to venture on an intoxicating spicy odyssey. Healing Spices is an in-depth look at 50 popular spices and their medicinal, curative and culinary qualities. Each spice is botanically described with a detailed outline of its medicinal uses, both preventative and healing. The book also details how to buy, grow, store and use each spice and, to make identification easy, the centre pages contain glorious colour plates of each. Scientific research is finding that spices — even more than herbs, fruits and vegetables — are loaded with antioxidants and other unique health-enhancing compounds. Bharat Aggarwal is currently with the M.D. Anderson Cancer Center in Texas and his authoritative book is one to have in your gardening library.

500 Time-Tested Home Remedies and the Science Behind Them Linda b. White, M.D., Barbara H. Seeber & Barabra Brownell Grogan, Fair Winds Press, RRP $29.99 Those of us with flourishing herb gardens love nothing more than some home herbal remedies to try. And, of course, there’s also the other food we grow. Hippocrates had it right when he said, “Let food be your medicine and medicine be your food.” He would have been using observation as his guide back then, but now we also have the benefit of science to explain how natural remedies work in the body. This 500-page tome is divided into two parts. Part I outlines how to build the six Pillars of Good Health: eat healing foods; move your body; manage stress; cherish sleep; go social; nourish your spirituality. Part II, which comprises most of the book, contains the remedies, organised by everyday ailments and areas of concern. They are an intriguing mix of recipes, lifestyle tips, facts and myth busters, accompanied by explanations of “how it works”. Plus, there’s a comprehensive index and detailed references. A valuable resource for every herb and food gardener.

Bush Tukka Guide Samantha Martin, Explore Australia, RRP $19.95 How does baked barramundi or curried crocodile sound? OK, granted they are not to be found in backyards around the country, but there are many tasty and nutritious Australian bush foods that could be easily grown in the home garden. Samantha Martin, the “Bush Tukka Woman”, reveals the huge variety of superfoods indigenous to our land and shares the ancient traditions of her elders. She explains how to forage and hunt for bush foods, whether you’re in the outback or on the coast. She also teaches about the medicinal uses of plants such as anti-viral lemon myrtle and popular lilly pilly: high in antioxidants, amino acids and vitamins A, C and E, “Lilly pilly berries are the perfect addition to any smoothie or fruit salad,” she says. Samantha also includes her favourite bush tukka recipes — stir-fried grasshoppers, anyone? Well, perhaps lemon myrtle roast chicken or lilly pilly and white chocolate muffins might appeal.

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WHAT’S NEW | Products

pick of the crop Our selection of products and services for gardeners and cooks Complied by Kerry Boyne

Fish and salad from your backyard Ever wished you could step out onto your back patio and come back inside with all the fresh ingredients of dinner? Aquaponics lets you do just that. It’s a growing system that aims to organically “close the loop” of nutrient cycling while producing both salad and fresh fish. Aquaponics typically consists of a fishpond and a raised growing bed in which your vegies grow in either pebbles or clay balls. The water from the fishpond is periodically pumped through the grow bed, delivering nutrient-rich water to the plants. The plants, in turn, oxygenate and clean that water with their roots, and then that water drains back to the fishpond, all clean and full of oxygen for the fish. For information about building your own aquaponics system and aquaponics courses held in Sydney, go to Milkwood.net

A first from Kuvings Kuvings Whole Slow Juicer is the first cold-press juicer in which you can juice the whole fruit or vegetable without cutting. Benefits include: • Substantially less preparation time • Lower (55) RPM • Richer in live enzymes, vitamins and minerals • Strong high-torque motor giving more juice and drier pulp • Better-tasting juice There’s a 20-year warranty on the motor and five years on the parts, RRP $599. For more information call (02) 9798 0586 or visit kuvings.net.au

Silicate paints for a healthy room climate Natural paints for wall design are very trendy. Silicate paints are among the most interesting options for indoor and outdoor use. Premium design and tough resilience are features of this classic wall paint. The reason for this is the mineral-water glass binder that bonds with the substrate by means of silication. Silicate paints have stood the test of time and are exemplary in terms of ecology and health. The natural alkalinity of the coating has an inhibiting effect on algae and fungi. The microcrystalline texture provides high moisture permeability, which prevents structural damage and improves the room climate. Silicate paints are uniquely long-lasting, both indoors and outdoors. They are dirt-resistant, too, so facades remain impeccably clean for a long time. They are also extremely UV- and weather-resistant as well as fire-resistant — even a welding torch will not set this paint on fire. 1800 809 448, bioproducts.com.au

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Water only when needed with the Toro Precision™ Soil Sensor The Toro Precision™ Soil Sensor reduces water waste by measuring moisture levels in your soil and determining when to allow your controller to water. “We’ve taken the same technology found at professional golf courses and sports fields and created a sensor intended for residential use,” says Ben Hall of Toro Australia. The Precision Soil Sensor is a two-part system that includes a battery-powered sensor and a receiver connected to your irrigation controller. Communication between the sensor and receiver is wireless, with up to 152m line-of-sight range. It’s very easy to install and no digging is required. First, connect the receiver to the controller, then find a representative area of your property for the sensor. Push the sensor probe in the ground and it will automatically calibrate itself to your soil type and begin communicating wirelessly with the receiver. toro.com.au

Angove Family Wine

Winter days on the Organigrow farm Cool, crisp days of winter bring delight to my senses as I greet the dawn’s rosy light and gaze over the valleys with their wisps of mist and sparkle of frost. Up on my hill, Jack Frost only visits occasionally, but even so there is a nip in the air that quickens my pace as I walk to the chicks to open their feeders; and I linger a little in the warmth of the brooders. Then it’s off to check the rest of the farm, seeing that the nests and feeders have opened and looking in each feeder to check their levels and adjust them if needed. Now that the wet season has passed it’s not slippery and the mulch of woodchip crunches underfoot. As I walk between the runs, my Maremma dogs bound up, wagging their tails, all excited about their night’s work chasing off the foxes and keeping the hens safe. I give them their bones as a reward for their efforts. Life is good for all my friends on the farm. organigrow.com.au

Angove Family Winemakers has been growing grapes and crafting fine South Australian wines for five generations. The range of organically grown and made wines includes Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and a Shiraz Cabernet. As any winemaker will tell you, the quality of a wine begins in the vineyard and is driven by the quality of the grapes. Organic grape growing ensures that the entire vineyard environment is managed for maximum, natural nutrition for the vines and their resulting grape crop. At all levels of viticulture, organic systems help the vine produce better fruit. Organically grown vines tend to be smaller, with lower crop levels than ordinary vineyards, resulting in more flavour-filled grapes. In the winery these wines are crafted with just the gentlest touch of the Angove winemakers to ensure flavour-packed pleasure in every glass. angove.com.au

Greenpatch Heirloom Sweet Corn Anasazi

Pest-safe chook feeders Having chooks in your backyard is an exciting thing to do but involves a little bit more than just feeding them scraps and collecting their eggs. The overall health of your flock is very important, so keeping their feed safe from rats, birds and mice is crucial as these pests spoil your expensive feed with their urine and faeces, bringing unwanted diseases into your chicken house. A Red Comb Chook Feeder solves all these problems and saves you quite a bit of money from lost feed over a year. Your neighbours will be happy as well as they can get quite upset when rodents move into the area looking for chook feed. So you’ll be doing your part in keeping the neighbourhood free from these unwanted pests. Buy Australian by purchasing your feeder from Red Comb and receive two lube drinkers FREE, for a limited time. redcombchookfeeders.com

An amazing ancient multi-coloured sweet corn that grows to just 2m high and has delicious thick sweet cobs that mature in 90 days. The brilliantly coloured kernels vary from yellow to red, burgundy and blue. When the cobs are dried the colours intensify greatly. This easily grown, hardy, non-hybrid variety has a good balance of sugars, starch and minerals, and is delicious eaten raw or cooked. Grown by the Anasazi Indians in the American southwest, around 100 BCE to 1300 CE, the heirloom rare corn is thought to have been found by archaeologists in the Anasazi ruins. This variety forms part of our exciting new corn/ maize project initiated in 2013 at Greenpatch. Our aim is to collect, grow and redistribute many rare non-hybrid varieties throughout Australia so they are not lost forever. These heirlooms are genetically diverse and have wonderful attributes such as superb flavour and good nutrition, adapt to a range of weather conditions and a variety of soils, and are reliable food sources. Heirloom Sweet Corn Anasazi is now available in Australia through Greenpatch Organic Seeds. (02) 6551 4240, greenpatchseeds. com.au

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WHAT’S NEW | Products Fleming’s Pick of the Crop Home harvesting is back in a big way and, with so many new fruits catering to all sorts of gardens, including even the tiniest of spaces, there’s no reason not to grow a fruit tree at home. Winter is a great time to establish a gorgeous home orchard, allowing the dormant trees to commence their new spring growth in your dirt and get established quickly. To help choose the right fruit tree, Fleming’s has developed Pick of the Crop — The ultimate fruit collection, including new and improved varieties as well as delicious old favourites. The guide features collections for small and compact gardens, traditional fruit trees and some unique new varieties, such as flat peaches and Easy Care™ Apples and more, with tips on planting, pollination, maintenance and even some quirky information on varieties. Director Wes Fleming says many Australian’s are unsure of the best fruit to grow at home because there just isn’t enough information available to help make selections. “Many people buy what Nan grew, or think ‘I know Granny Smith, so I’ll grow that’,” says Wes. “This means people are missing out on the best fruit available, but now with Pick of the Crop it’s easy. flemings.com.au

Organic wine ... healthier for you and the environment Robinvale Wines is a dualcertified organic and biodynamic winery and vineyard in Robinvale, north-west Victoria. Resembling a Greek temple, the winery was built from Mount Gambier limestone to help maintain a cool, temperate cellar. The winery is fully equipped with bottling facilities and a cellar door. The property is certified with the Bio-Dynamic Research Institute of Australia and the Australian Certified Organic. Products that meet the standards of these organisations are entitled to carry the logos, which indicate they are certified and produced according to their high standards. Robinvale produces award-winning red and white wines, sparkling wines, fortified wines, preservative-free wines, pure grape juice, sparkling non-alcoholic beverages and dried fruit. An award-winning wine that stands out is the 08 Kerner. It has won six gold, two silver and nine bronze medals since 2013. organicwines.com.au

100 | Good Organic Gardening

Mother Nature’s soap Have you ever wondered what your laundry detergent or shampoo is doing to the environment after it goes down your drain? You don’t need to look hard to find reports of environmental damage from household chemicals, but I was worried about these products even before they went down the drain. My mum who, like her mum, died too young from cancer, had always warned me never to touch laundry powder because it’s carcinogenic. She was right and I was careful — but I’m not any more. I discovered a laundry detergent that literally falls off a tree, does a better job than the powder I was using and is actually good for the environment. It didn’t take long to find that this “detergent” (soap nuts) made my windows shiny, cleaned my floors and cleaned my kids from head to toe — even keeping head lice away. I’m so proud to be able to share soap nuts with many other people through our home business, go green at home. — Lee-Ann Wilson, gogreenathome.com.au

Make your own brew We’ve come across a fantastic simple and non-messy new homebrew product. The brew only takes 10 minutes to set up and does not require cumbersome kit or complicated procedures. Simply pour water into the bag, add the enclosed ‘Moondust’, screw on the special brewing cap and leave for a minimum of two weeks to get 37 schooners of real craft beer. It’s then ready to drink straight away. Just open the tap and pour. We particularly like that it’s made from allnatural ingredients with no preservatives or sugar. It’s even approved by the UK Vegetarian Society. At the moment there are three products in the range: Cheese Makers Golden Ale, Four Candles Bitter and Dark Adder Dark Ale, each at $59.90. Later this year there will be apple and pear cider. Available online now at moonshinedrinks.com.au and in more and more shops.

Incubators for your chicks Planet Poultry is proud to introduce a range of incubators to the Australian market. Italian designed, engineered and made, River/Covina Incubators are a hi-tech, low-maintenance, easy-to-use range of digital incubators. Available in Manual or Automatic, these incubators are suitable for the poultry hobbyist and fancier. They are designed for hen eggs as well as pheasant, guinea fowl, quail, partridge, turkey, geese, ducks, peacocks, pigeons, exotic birds and birds of prey, with temperature settings from 30°C to 40°C. The temperature is able to be set at increments of 0.1°C and is digitally displayed. These incubators offer innovative technical solutions and high reliability. Humidity is controlled by adding water via external watering ports. Inspection windows allow viewing of eggs at all stages of incubation without the need to open the incubator. These incubators have been factory fitted to suit the Australian market. Models available: 12 hen egg (or 48 quail egg) manual or automatic, 24 hen egg (or 96 quail egg) automatic and 49 hen egg (or 196 quail egg) automatic. 12 months manufacturer’s warranty. planetpoultry.com.au

Rainbow Power The Rainbow Power Company started with green ideals at local market stalls 25 years ago, building the business to what it is today — a leader in the field of renewable energy that doesn’t cost the earth, providing solar systems across Australia and the Pacific. The most recent innovation has been the development of pre-wired remotepower solar systems designed to the customer’s specs and shipped direct anywhere in Australia, for installation by a local electrician. Also on offer is a wide range of low-cost mini and micro solar-power options for use in the field, farm shed and home, from portable lowwattage lighting kits to direct solar chargers for USB devices, to solar powering a small fridge and more. You can combine all your gardening activities with clean, renewable energy from the sun and cook in the garden with a solar box cooker. Rainbow Power Company can design an off-grid solar system for your home. Call 02 6689 1430 or buy online via the webshop. rpc.com.au

Keeping it sweet Organic Times Rapadura Sugar is whole cane sugar unrefined, unbleached, fair trade and certified organic. This deliciously pure organic sugar offers a unique caramel/toffee flavour, grainy texture and unmatched nutritional value because unlike other sugars it is dehydrated at low heat, and not separated from the molasses. The natural balance of vitamins and minerals including potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus and Vitamin A are naturally present and have been retained. organictimes.com.au

Good Organic Gardening | 101

Directory FREIGHT FREE AUSTRALIA WIDE Did you know?

We Australians put over 30 Million Plastic toothbrushes into landfill each year. The The Environmental plastic they are made Toothbrush. from will not break Made from sustainable Bamboo, down in your lifetime these gorgeous toothbrushes are or in the lifetime of 100% biodegradable. your children.

What is this?

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It is a Soap Nut.

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Robinvale Wines is a family run and owned certi¿ed Organic and Bio-Dynamic winery and vineyard in NW Victoria. We have a large range of Wine, Juices, dried fruits and Non Alcoholic Beverages.

For all your Organic product needs check our website

www.organicwines.com.au Phone: 03 5026 3955 Email: info@organicwines.com.au