Got Rum? ®
c on T en TS AUGUST 2024
5 From The e di T or 6-9 The Angel’s s h A re - r um r eviews 10-13 C oo K ing wi T h rum 14-19 T he im B i B er ’ s A lm A n AC
20-23 wonder F ul indonesi A 24-25 T he rum universi TY® li B r A r Y
28-31 The rum his T ori A n 32-37 T he A m AZ ing world o F A l C ohol
38-41 rum in his T or Y 42-45 rum in T he news 46-59 T he swee T B usiness o F sug A r 60-63 C ig A r A nd rum PA iring
Got Rum? ®
Printed in the u s .A.
A publication of r um r unner Press, i nc. Taylor, Texas 76574 - u s .A.
Tel/Fax +1 (855) rum -T i P s © 2024 by r um r unner Press, i nc. All rights reserved.
August 2024
e ditor and Publisher: luis@gotrum.com
e xecutive e ditor: margaret@gotrum.com
Cigar and r um: philip@gotrum.com
Angel’s s hare: paul@gotrum.com
r um h istorian: marco@gotrum.com
r um in the n ews: mike@gotrum.com
Cooking with r um: sue@gotrum.com
w ebmaster: web@gotrum.com
d irector of Photography: art@gotrum.com
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F ron T C over : s ugarcane h arvest AbstractCourtesy of the Ayala Collection inside s P re A d : s unshine i n The d ark
F rom T he edi T or Craft Rum’s Future
i recently returned from teaching a rum course at m oonshine u niversity in Kentucky, and am very pleased to have seen, once again, many of the bright minds behind the emerging craft distilleries that will shape the future of the industry.
At the beginning of my classes, it is always clear that many of the participants only see rum as a small part of their portfolios but, by the time the course is over, i usually manage to convert a large portion of them into “rum believers,” based on all the advantages i present to them, accompanied by abundant supporting data.
And this craft distilling trend is not unique to the us A: it is a common occurrence in a large proportion of the countries with an active craft spirits movement.
i particularly enjoy discussing with students all aspects of the sugarcane industry, from cultivation to harvest to processing. w hen they learn about the number of sugar mills that close each year around the world, the initial despair quickly turns into out-of-thebox thinking, and the ideas for the future survival of the industry start to pour in. s eeing this spirit of resiliency always reminds me of the poem “ You Will Never See Me Fall ” by Joyce Alcantara:
You may see me struggle, but you won’t see me fall. Regardless if I’m weak or not, I’m going to stand tall.
Everyone says life is easy, but truly living it is not. Times get hard, people struggle and constantly get put on the spot.
I’m going to wear the biggest smile, even though I want to cry.
I’m going to fight to live, even though I’m destined to die.
And even though it’s hard and I may struggle through it all, you may see me struggle...but you will NEVER see me fall.
Cheers!
l uis Ayala, Editor and Publisher http://www.linkedin.com/in/rumconsultant
do you want to learn more about rum but don’t want to wait until the next issue of “got rum?”? Then join the “rum lovers unite!” group on linkedin for updates, previews, Q&A and exclusive material.
T he A ngel’ s sh A re
by Paul s enft
m y name is Paul s enft - r um r eviewer, Tasting host, Judge and w riter. m y exploration of r ums began by learning to craft Tiki cocktails for friends. i quickly learned that not all rums are created equally and that the uniqueness of the spirit can be as varied as the locales they are from. This inspired me to travel with my wife around the Caribbean, Central America, and u nited s tates visiting distilleries and learning about how each one creates their rums. i have also had the pleasure of learning from bartenders, brand ambassadors, and other enthusiasts from around the world; each one providing their own unique point of view, adding another chapter to the modern story of rum.
The desire to share this information led me to create www. r umJourney.com where i share my experiences and reviews in the hopes that i would inspire others in their own explorations. i t is my wish in the pages of “ g ot r um?” to be your host and provide you with my impressions of rums available in the world market. h opefully my tasting notes will inspire you to try the rums and make your own opinions. The world is full of good rums and the journey is always best experienced with others. Cheers!
Copper Bottom Craft d istillery is located in h olly h ills, Florida, off the coast of the h allifax r iver and north of d aytona Beach. This distillery uses fresh, unrefined sugarcane to produce their silver rum, and after fermentation, they use a small batch craft still to create this expression. The rum is blended to 40% AB v and bottled on site. They do not use any artificial colors or flavorings to make their rums.
Appearance
The 750-ml bottle provides basic information about the rum on the front label, including the batch number the rum came from. The rum for this review came from batch number 47. The back label shares the details and inspiration behind the name of the company and the equivocation of the phrase “Copper Bottom,” meaning someone who is “thoroughly reliable and trustworthy.” The plastic cork and stopper are fastened to the bottle with a clear security wrap and a logoed neck strip.
The liquid is crystal clear in the bottle and glass. s wirling the rum creates a thin band that thickens, slowly beads up, and then quickly releases a wave of legs. As the legs descend down the glass, they thicken up as they return to the liquid at the base. The band evaporates, leaving a good bit of pebbling around the glass.
n ose
The aroma of the rum leads to a strong butterscotch note. As it fades, a wellrounded vanilla note dominates briefly.
Copper Bottom s ilver r um
As the vanilla fades, there are wisps of light citrus, ethanol, and minerals.
Palate
The first sip conditions the mouth with a swirl of butterscotch and alcohol, creating a dense, chewy mouthfeel. Additional sips continue to be dominated by the flavor of the alcohol, with a lemon zest note forming as a top note and a vanilla note that starts off light but gradually deeps along with the mineral flavors to create an earthier foundation than expected.
r eview
i t is always interesting to put an American craft rum through its paces, and to be honest, when i first detected the leading butterscotch note in the aroma, i had a here we go again moment. The butterscotch note is all too common, and in my experience, it dominates in a lot of craft rums. h owever, the vanilla, citrus, and mineral notes slid in and immediately changed the wariness into curiosity. s ipping the rum, the alcohol note is always present but augments instead of inhibiting the other flavors that develop. w ith that zesty citrus note in play, i immediately made a daiquiri with it, and the rum really shined in the cocktail. o verall, understanding that the goal of the company was to create a rum for making cocktails, they did a fine job with this endeavor.
T he A ngel’ s sh A re
by Paul s enft
r enegade Cane r um
All i sland Cuvee: n ova
i n 2015, m ark r eynier founded CaneCo, an agricultural company that established seven sugarcane farms around the island of g renada. e ach one featuring its own unique varietal growing in its own microclimate, reinvigorating the island’s sugarcane production. o nce the cane is harvested, it is milled, and the juice is fermented using the company’s proprietary methods. Then the fermented wash is distilled in either a column or pot still before being aged in a combination of virgin or once-used French and American oak barrels. The rum is brought to proof and non-chilled filtered before being bottled.
The Cuvee n ova is harvested from cane grown on the east and south coasts of the island on the farms at n ew Bacolet, o ld Bacolet, Pearls, n ursery, w esterhall, and h ope. The rum is a blend of pot and column still rum and is aged for 659 days in both French and American oak and bottled at 46% AB v. The company does not use any additives, coloring, sweeteners, or chilled filtering processes with their products.
Appearance
The 700-ml short-necked, curved bottle has a clear security wrap that holds a glass cap with a unique plastic seal. The front label provides basic information about the rum, but the back label delivers a treasure trove of information with a link to their Cane Code system. i entered the code on the bottom of the rum and found additional details about the rum blend.
The color of the rum holds a golden amber color in the bottle and glass. s wirling the liquid creates a medium
band that quickly thickens and releases a few waves of legs before beading up and evaporating.
n ose
The aroma of the rum has a swirl of fruit and spice notes that is lovely in its complexity. d uring the evaluation, i discovered notes of grilled pineapple, fresh apricots and melons, allspice, sweet cane, and tropical flowers.
Palate
The first sip of the rum is as complicated as the initial nosing of the aroma. The alcohol conditions the palate with a swirl of newly made caramel, taking on the high notes. The honeyed apricots, fresh cane, and grilled pineapple take the midline, while the baseline forms with flavor notes of allspice, chocolatecovered coffee beans, baking spices, and charred oak notes. These flavors merge into a nice, long, complex finish.
r eview
w hen i heard about a new state-of-the art distillery being built on g renada, i was intrigued by how they would differentiate themselves from the other rum companies long established on the island. This is the first rum i have had from them, and i found it to be wonderfully complex, from the aroma to the last sip. w hile easy to sip, it is excellent in an o ld Fashioned and s idecar. For an immature rum, i was truly impressed with the flavor profile the blenders created with this product and look forward to sharing it at tasting events in the future.
COOKING WITH RUM
Bringing the Spirit of the Cane Into the Heart of the Kitchen!
by Chef Susan Whitley
i ngredients:
r um & c oke Pulled Pork Sandwich
• 3 lbs. Bone- i n Pork s houlder, leave ¼ inch fat from blade roast
• ½ tsp. s alt
• ½ tsp. Black Pepper
• 2 tsp. o il
• 2 Celery s talks, chopped
• 2 Carrots, chopped
• 1 l arge o nion, chopped
• 3 Jalapeños, chopped
• 2 g arlic Cloves
• ½ tsp. Allspice
• ½ C. g old r um
• ¼ C. d ark r um
• 2 C. Coca-Cola
• 1 ½ C. l ow- s odium Beef Broth
• 2 Bay l eaves
• ½ tsp. d ried o regano
• 2 Tbsp. Apple Cider v inegar
Directions:
1. r emove excess fat from meat, leaving ¼ inch fat from blade roast. r inse meat then pat meat dry with paper towels. s prinkle with salt and black pepper. h eat a large pot over medium heat. Add oil, then meat. Brown on all sides, approximately 5 minutes per side. Transfer meat to slow cooker.
2. i n the large pot used to cook the meat, add celery, carrots, onion, jalapeños and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until brown, about 10 minutes. s tir in Allspice until mixed then add the r ums. s crape mixture into slow cooker using a wooden spoon, make sure to scrape up any brown bits from the bottom of pot as well. Add cola, broth, bay leaves and oregano to slow cooker. Cover and cook on low until meat is very tender, about 8 hours. r emove pork and place on a cutting board. u sing 2 forks, shred meat.
3. s train sauce from slow cooker into a large frying pan. d iscard vegetables and any fat from sauce. Bring liquid to a boil, stirring often, until reduced to ¾ cup, about 25 - 30 minutes. s tir in apple cider vinegar. Add the pulled pork with sauce. Pulled pork is ready to serve on buns. o ther recommendations: serve over rice or mashed potatoes.
s ource: chatelaine.com
Banana c olada
This is a blended drink, where you toss everything into a blender. A great frosty cold drink enjoyed on a hot summer day.
i ngredients:
• 1½ oz. l ight r um
• ¾ oz. Banana l iqueur
• 3 oz. Pineapple Juice
• 1 oz. Cream of Coconut
• 1 Banana, peeled
• 1 C. i ce
• o range wedge for garnish
i nstructions:
1. i n a blender, add all ingredients.
2. Blend until smooth (or desired consistency).
3. Pour into a highball or hurricane glass.
4. g arnish with an orange wedge.
l ooking for other variations to make this cocktail? h ere are some suggestions:
• s kip the blending! Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker, using an extra ½ ounce of banana liqueur and an ounce less pineapple juice. s hake the ingredients together to chill them well, and then strain to serve over fresh ice in a cocktail glass.
• i f you’re looking for a bolder banana flavor, add another peeled banana to the mix.
• Add a dash of cinnamon bitters or a splash of cinnamon liqueur for a spiced banana colada.
Imbiber’s The Almanac
A monthly guide for thirsty explorers looking for new reasons to raise their glasses!
The i mbiber’s Almanac - The r um u niversity®
r um? August 2024 - 14
Presented by
Imbiber’s The Almanac August
Are you looking for festive reasons to raise your glass this month?
h ere are a few of them!
w rite to us at info@gotrum.com if we missed any!
AUG 4 i nternational Beer Day
AUG 6 m ead Day
AUG 6 i ndia Pale Ale ( i PA) Beer Day
AUG 9 World Baijiu Day
AUG 16 n ational r um Day
AUG 18 Pinot n oir Day
AUG 25 n ational Whiskey Sour Day
AUG 30 n ational m ai Tai Day
Got r um? August 2024 - 18
Imbiber’s The Almanac
i ngredients:
• 1 1/2 oz. w hite r um
• 3/4 oz. o range Curaçao
• 3/4 oz. l ime Juice, Freshly s queezed
• 1/2 oz. o rgeat
• 1/2 oz. d ark r um
• For garnish, use any of the following: l ime w heel and m int s prig, or Pineapple w edge with m araschino Cherry
Directions:
1. Add the white rum, curaçao, lime juice and orgeat into a shaker with crushed ice and shake lightly (about 3 seconds).
2. Pour into a double rocks glass.
3. Float the dark rum over the top.
4. g arnish and enjoy!
Featured Cocktail: m ai Tai (August 30th) Got r um? August 2024 - 19
Alcoholic Beverages in i ndonesia
s ince ancient times, local alcoholic beverages were developed by natives in the archipelago. s ome panels in 9th century Borobudur bas-reliefs depicted drink vendors, warung (small restaurant), and there is a panel depicting a building with people drinking (possibly alcoholic beverages), dancing and having fun, seeming to depict a tavern or lodging house. According to a Chinese source, Yingya s henglan (c. 15th century) the people of Java in m ajapahit kingdom drank wine made from palm sap called tuak (palm wine). h owever, by the 16th century i slam began to supplant h induism and Buddhism as the major religion in i ndonesia. s ince then, as a m uslim-majority country, i ndonesian m uslims share i slamic dietary laws that prohibit alcoholic beverages. n evertheless, the local alcohol-drinking culture still survives, at least among less-religious members of society and among the nonm uslim community. Certain ethno-cultural regions which are predominantly Christian are known for their affinity to alcohol-drinking traditions; such as the Batak, Torajan, m inahasan, Ambonese and Papuan.
i ndonesia has its own traditional alcoholic beverages prepared by fermenting rice grain, gluten, sugar palm sap, and coconuts. According to culinary expert w illiam w ongso, the culture of drinking distilled alcohol was never strong in i ndonesia, with only a few regions having developed it.
i n the Batak community in n orth s umatra, tuak (palm liquor) is a compulsory drink in the celebrations and became a tradition in the community. Batak tribes are predominantly of Christian Protestant faith, yet some of its clans are m uslim. A traditional Batak bar serving tuak is called a lapo tuak.
i n the Toraja lands of s outh s ulawesi, their version of tuak (made from fermented sugar palm sap), is called ballo . i n Torajan traditional ceremonies, rituals and celebrations, ballo is always served, either as a prerequisite for the ritual; as an offering for ancestral spirits, as well as for drinks for guests. Ballo is also commonly consumed by the neighboring Bugis ethnic group.
i n the m inahasa region of n orth s ulawesi, an almost identical palm liquor, also made from sugar palm sap, is called saguer i n n usa Tenggara and m aluku i slands the people also drink palm wine, locally known as sopi
Got r um? August 2024 - 22
Also in the m inahasa region, the people drink a highly alcoholic drink called cap tikus (lit. “rodent brand”). Cap tikus is made from distilled saguer or sopi (palm wine), which increases its alcohol content. The origin of cap tikus brand is unclear. i t is suggested that circa 1820s, prior to the 1830 Java w ar, the K nil m inahasan legion found and bought distilled saguer or sopi sold in blue bottles embossed with the image of mouse sold by a Chinese merchant in Fort Amsterdam in m anado. Today however, because of poor regulation on alcohol production in this region, this traditional home-made cap tikus industry is considered as an illegal beverage, due to the high prevalence of mortal alcohol poisoning.
Bottled brem bali (Balinese rice wine) and arrack are popular beverages in the h indu-majority island of Bali. Brem is a brownish colored liquor with 5% alcohol. i t is also exported to Japan and China. For Balinese people it has a religious significance too. Brem , arak and tuak are required for tabuhan (offerings) to the gods.
i n s olo, Central Java, ciu , a local adaptation of Chinese wine, made from cider molasses of sugarcane is well known. i t is linked to s olo’s history as a sugar plantation and production center in colonial times.
The d utch Colonial state was established in i ndonesia in the 1800s. The colonial d utch brought their e uropean drinking culture to the e ast i ndies, most prominently with beer. The h eineken beer company established its brewery factory in s urabaya in 1929 during the d utch colonial rule of i ndonesia. By the 1960s, i ndonesians developed their own local brands of beer, which included Bintang Beer (nationalized from h eineken) and Anker Beer.
i n April 2019, the e ast n usa Tenggara provincial government supported the legal aspect of production and distribution of sopi, a local traditional alcoholic beverage. This policy is very likely to make sopi the first fully supported alcoholic product by the local government in i ndonesia.
c ountry f acts
• r evenue, at home (e.g., revenue generated in supermarkets and convenience stores) in the Alcoholic d rinks market amounts to us $1,964.0m in 2024.
• r evenue, out-of-home (e.g., revenue generated in restaurants and bars) amounts to us $890.4m in 2024.
• r evenue, combined amounts to us $2,855.0m in 2024.
• The revenue, at home is expected to grow annually by 2.34% (CA gr 2024-2029).
• i n global comparison, most revenue, at home is generated in China ( us $208bn in 2024).
• i n relation to total population figures, the average revenue per capita, at home of us $7.02 are generated in 2024.
• i n the Alcoholic d rinks market, volume, at home is expected to amount to 350.0m l by 2024.
• v olume, out-of-home is expected to amount to 98.8m l in 2024.
• v olume, combined is expected to amount to 448.8m l in 2024.
• The Alcoholic d rinks market is expected to show a volume growth, at home of -0.1% in 2025.
• The average volume per person, at home in the Alcoholic d rinks market is expected to amount to 1.25 l in 2024.
r
www. r um u niversity.com
f ire i slands: r ecipes from i ndonesia by e leanor f ord
(Publisher’s r eview) w inner of the Kerb Food and d rink Travel Book of the Year and the g uild of Food w riters i nternational or r egional Cookbook Award!
From acclaimed food writer and world traveler e leanor Ford comes a vibrant collection of 100 mouthwatering recipes for i ndonesian cuisine—from the refined cooking of Java to the spicy heart of s umatra and the festival foods of Bali.
i ndonesian food is the hidden treasure of s outh e ast Asian cookery, waiting to be uncovered, and this wondrous cookbook opens an unexplored culinary region to food lovers and travellers. i t is an unprecedented culinary celebration of i ndonesia, the world’s largest archipelago—a land rich with tropical rainforests, smoking volcanoes, and silver sand beaches that was also the beating heart of the spice trade. Today its unforgettable dishes are a celebration of rice and spice—homegrown clove and nutmeg, ginger and chilly, coconut, turmeric, peanuts, and more.
Through delightful, easy-to-follow text and instructions, Fire i slands reveals how to set up an i ndonesian kitchen and how to create one hundred authentic i ndonesian recipes—everything from crunchy snacks and street food to sweet and sticky rice dishes, spicy noodles, fragrant sauces, tangy broths, rich drinks, and much more. This bright, beautifully designed package has mouthwatering photographs of the dishes throughout coupled with original images from the lush, food paradise.
About the Author: e leanor Ford is a food writer, recipe developer, and food stylist who spent many years living in i ndonesia and has traveled to seventy countries, collecting eclectic and evocative recipes for inspiration or to reproduce. s he is the coauthor of the cookbook s amarkand:
r ecipes & s tories from Central Asia and the Caucasus, which was named a book of the year by The g uardian and Food52’s Piglet Tournament of Cookbooks, and awarded a Food and Travel Prize by the g uild of Food w riters, of which she is a member, a cookbook and restaurant reviewer, and a judge for food awards. e leanor was also a recipe developer and editor for the g ood Food Channel, BBC Food, and g ood Food magazine; the local editor for Zagat’s h ong Kong restaurant guide; a ZagatBuzz restaurant blogger in l ondon; and a Time o ut restaurant reviewer specializing in Asian and international foods. e leanor lives in l ondon, e ngland.
Publisher: Apollo Publishers; i llustrated edition ( n ovember 5, 2019)
l anguage: e nglish h ardcover: 240 pages is B n -10: 1948062801 is B n -13: 978-1948062800
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T he r U m hi ST ori A n
by m arco Pierini
i was born in 1954 in a little town in Tuscany ( i taly) where i still live. i n my youth, i got a degree in Philosophy in Florence and i studied Political s cience in m adrid, but my real passion has always been h istory and through h istory i have always tried to understand the world, and men. l ife brought me to work in tourism, event organization and vocational training, then, already in my fifties i discovered rum and i fell in love with it.
i have visited distilleries, met rum people, attended rum Festivals and joined the r um Family. i have studied too, because r um is not only a great distillate, it’s a world. Produced in scores of countries, by thousands of companies, with an extraordinary variety of aromas and flavors, it is a fascinating field of studies. i began to understand something about sugarcane, fermentation, distillation, ageing and so on.
s oon, i discovered that rum has also a terrible and rich h istory, made of voyages and conquests, blood and sweat, imperial fleets and revolutions. i soon realized that this h istory deserved to be researched properly and i decided to devote myself to it with all my passion and with the help of the basic scholarly tools i had learnt during my old university years.
i n 2017 i published the book “A meri CA n rum – A s hort h istory of r um in e arly America”
i n 2019 i began to run a Blog: www. therumhistorian.com
i n 2020, with my son Claudio, i have published a new book “F ren C h rum – A h istory 1639-1902”.
i am currently doing new research on the h istory of Cuban r um.
his T or Y o F C u BA n rum
21. un C le s A m ’ s B oo Z e C o P s
This article, again, is based mainly on “ A Thousand Thirsty Beaches ” by l isa l indquist d orr, 2018; all the quotes are from this book.
Just few months after the entry into force of Prohibition, the American press noticed that something was not working: “By m arch 1920, the New York Times reported that bottles of illegal spirits were arriving in n ew York aboard steamers from Cuba. By o ctober, the Times noted the increase in trade aboard rumrunning ships. By d ecember, signs outside saloons in n ew York City advertised ‘ w hy go to Cuba?”, slyly suggesting one need not to travel to find the liquor that increasingly drew tourists to h avana.”
o ne year later, “By the end of 1921, well before ‘ r um r ow’ became common shorthand for the floating marketplaces of booze along the eastern seaboard, government officials across the country were wringing their hands at their inability to stop liquor from coming into the country by sea. n avy and Coast g uard fleets were small and outdated, and their efforts were overwhelmed by the sheer
volume of the traffic in liquor. As the New York Times noted at the end of that year, ‘For every rum-running schooner overhauled and captured, a dozen had escaped to land their cargoes on a thousand thirsty beaches from Cape Breton to the sunny shores of Florida.’”
“Alcohol traveled from liquor-exporting islands in the Caribbean to serve local markets in the s outh or passed through the southern coasts on its way to markets farther north. This wide-reaching, wellorganized, and immensely profitable traffic in liquor eventually expanded to include other contraband cargoes – undocumented immigrants and narcotics – once federal laws restricting immigration and controlling drugs made smuggling them profitable.”
i n front of the spectacle of the smugglers’ speedboats chased by the Coast g uard, the press would often make fun of the efforts of the Federal Authorities, with headlines like this: “ h ide and s eek Adds Comedy to r um g ame”.
At first, the smugglers concentrated on the large coastal cities of the n orth e ast, then things changed and a large part of the trafficking moved towards the s outh of the us , adapting to what we can call the g eopolitics of smuggling. “Their enterprise shifts the focus from north-eastern cities to the seas along the southern coasts and the smaller towns, cities and sparsely settled coastal areas along the southern Atlantic and the g ulf of m exico. Though these locations may have appeared isolated, they were nonetheless well connected to global trade networks that traveled through h avana, across the s traits of Florida, and throughout the s outh. d escribed as ‘the northern rim of [the] Caribbean’ the s outh shared colonial relationships, systems of slavery, monocrop of agriculture, trade, and cultural exchange with the region since the fifteenth century. Bootleggers merely took advantage of the long-standing networks to meet ongoing demands of liquor.”
“ w hile the Coast g uard sought to prevent liquor from entering the u nited s tates by sea, other agencies sought to disrupt the source of supply more directly. To
examine their efforts, the story now moves to h avana, Cuba, where a small band of quasi-official agents took on the liquor trade in the port where smugglers purchased their cargoes.” w e must remember that, while the us went dry, the rest of the world did not. s o, the u s . tried to persuade the other countries to collaborate in the fight against alcohol smuggling, but with little success. Producing countries, shipping companies, trans-shipment ports etc.: all had too much to gain from the sales of alcohol to want to seriously collaborate with the American authorities.
A significant smuggling of alcohol, and not only that, developed immediately between Cuba and the us and some years later, in 1924, h avana was probably the most important center of rum smuggling into the u nited s tates. Cuba exported its own rum, but also a great quantity of spirits imported from e urope. Trading in alcohol was legal in Cuba, Customs duties were very profitable for the Cuban Treasury, and the Cuban authorities were more than willing to turn a blind eye to a few irregularities. “ h avana was well positioned to play a central role in the black-market traffic in booze.” e uropean producers of alcoholic beverages used h avana as a transshipment point to enter the American black market. “ e uropeans makers of cognac, whiskey, scotch, gin, vodka, wine, and champagne, unwilling to lose their American market entirely, shipped thousands of cases of liquor to ports like h avana, knowing that they would eventually end up as contraband arriving on the southern shores of the u nited s tates.”
“ i n 1925 in the face of a flood of booze from Cuba, the u s . government sent Captain Peter A. del v alle of the u s marine corps to h avana to investigate the smuggling industry in Cuba. h e eventually submitted a forty-page report outlining an extensive smuggling network for liquor as well as companion cargos of immigrants and drugs. d uring his investigation, del v alle posed as a businessman hoping to start a smuggling operation and met with a successful bootlegger at a local h avana café to learn the trade. g etting into the smuggling business, he was assured, was quite simple. o ne needed only a schooner,
a relationship with a liquor wholesaler in h avana, and a relatively modest amount of capital to become a rum runner. v essels that could carry 8,000 cases could be had for about $8,000 and the old hand in the trade even offered to locate a ship for a small commission. The smuggler also recommended a local liquor wholesaler, calling him a “square broker”. w holesalers, del v alle learned, were useful beyond merely providing the liquor itself. A good one also took care of ‘fixing’ any inquisitive government officials and obtained the fake documents needed to enter and leave port. This helpful smuggler also suggested that d aytona, Florida, might provide a ready market for del v alle’s smuggled goods. i n short, over the course of one evening and several rounds of drinks, del v alle was instructed in the intricacies of the liquor trade from equipment to supply to final customer. m ore than merely transporting liquor by boat from h avana to the southern coast, successful smuggling followed an established business model, with a little corruption, to ship liquor to its final destination in the glasses of thirsty Americans nationwide. … The business model the smuggler described to del v alle in 1925 involved largely legal transactions, at least until the product reached American waters. Purchasing large quantities of liquor from a wholesaler in h avana was perfectly legal, as was shipping that liquor to a foreign port, just not one in the u nited s tates. But it was no secret to u . s . officials in Cuba and to Cuban officials themselves that much of the liquor that left Cuba wound up in the u nited s tates. The traffic in liquor from h avana to those thirsty southerners veered from legal to illegal trade and built on existing trade relations established between Cuba and the u nited s tates. i n many ways, the liquor traffic was a modern international business, using technological innovation, a focus on efficiency, and the delivery of a reliable product in which southerners played no small part.”
“ s muggling liquor was big business, worth many millions of dollars a year. Beginning with a few bottles smuggled aboard regular ferry service to the u nited s tates, it increased by 1923 and 1924 into a thriving well-organized industry. h enry Kime, a
man-about-town working as an undercover agent in h avana, outlined the financial aspects of smuggling in a 1927 report to prohibition officials in w ashington, d .C. h e estimated there were at last twentyeight ships engaged in smuggling docked in h avana at any one time and fortyfive or so that regularly smuggled liquor from h avana to the u nited s tates. These ships could carry 2,000 to 10,000 cases of liquor, averaging about 5,000 per ship per voyage. Kime pointed out that h avana alone supplied the u nited s tates with approximately 500,000 cases of illegal booze every month, totaling 6 million cases per year.”
Far from the halo of romanticism surrounding it, smuggling was in a large part a question of paperwork.
“ d ocuments indicating that a cargo of liquor was destined for the u nited s tates represented a clear violation of American Prohibition laws, giving Cuban authorities the necessary justification to prevent the ship’s departure for sea. Consequently, liquor ships could only leave port if they carried authorized clearance papers indicating that they were headed or ‘clearing’ for ports where the trade in liquor was legal.”
Therefore, in h avana, a true and proper market for forged documents was born, and many foreign ports, especially in small h onduras, officially imported large quantities of spirits. For example, a schooner had returned to h avana after unloading its cargo; according to the ship’s papers she went from h avana to French s t. Pierre off the coast of Canada, then to Trujillo in h onduras, and then to h abana again. The whole voyage in in six days! “ i t just proves that the days of the fast clipper ships are not over – seems like a rum cargo surely does put speed to a vessel.”
“ i ndeed, business was so brisk in the smuggling trade that by 1926 two shipping agencies in h avana … devoted themselves exclusively to rum running concerns. They provided comprehensive services to their clients, including ‘putting aboard liquor cargoes, arranging details at h avana Customs, supplying clearance papers and
a dummy shipper [who would take delivery of the cargo], supplying return fraudulent papers from h onduras ports, and paying the small graft demanded by harbor officials’. By 1927, officials confirmed that virtually all of the Customs documents submitted by ships carrying liquor out of h avana were fraudulent. … As smuggling out of h avana increased, American officials expressed continual frustration with the seeming unwillingness of Cuban officials to address what Americans believed were clear and obvious frauds. Cuban officials responded to American complaints by throwing up their hands and insisting there was little they could do; the ships were not violating Cuban law.”
As we have said, massive smuggling operations also came from Canada, s aint Pierre, the Bahamas, e urope and m exico. h owever, in these cases, the pressure that the us could exert was limited. The various countries defended their interests, and in the 1920s the us was not yet the superpower we have known since after the s econd w orld w ar. Cuba, though, was a different case. The island had a substantial dependence on the us , which even threatened a direct military intervention. Therefore, American pressures couldn’t be ignored, at least officially. s o, in 1926, the u nited s tates and Cuba negotiated a series of measures, soon known as the r um Treaty, which allowed them to legally pursue booze smuggling towards the u nited s tates also in Cuban ports and the Cuban territory. And not only booze smuggling: “Cuba’s anti-smuggling treaty with the u nited s tates covered all three illicit cargoes – liquor, immigrants, and narcotics – theoretically uniting efforts between the two countries to stop all forms of illicit traffic. i t was a fact often obscured by frequent references to the treaty as ‘ r um Treaty’. ”
And to enforce the Treaty, a specific group of undercover agents was also formed, tasked with gathering information on suspicious shipments and then informing the American and Cuban authorities. The purpose was to prevent shipments of alcohol from leaving for the us or to alert the Coast g uard in time so they could
intercept the smuggling ships before they unloaded their precious cargo. “ r ather than create a new bureaucracy in h avana, the federal government, through the i ntelligence d ivision of the u s . Coast g uard, funded and fostered a small group of civilians who acted, as they jokingly referred to themselves, as ‘ u ncle s am’s Booze Cops’. i t was their efforts that shut down smuggling from h avana, if only temporarily.” For this gang of booze cops almost entirely wiped out the smuggling of liquor from h avana during 1926 and 1927.
The exploits of this handful of agents in 1920s Cuba would deserve a novel or a film, with some comedic aspects. Because, despite their commitment and the dangers they faced, owing to the continuous lack of adequate resources, bureaucratic red tape, competition among various federal agencies, and the lack of cooperation from the Cubans, their efforts ultimately proved futile. After a couple of years, smuggling resumed almost as before. m any smugglers left h avana, dispersing to other ports and landings, frequently changing them and hiding a bit better. o thers learned to better forge the documents, relying on the lack of enthusiasm from Cuban authorities and on simple corruption. The stakes were too high, and it was objectively difficult to enforce in Cuba a law that the Americans blatantly failed to enforce even at home.
The work and the problems of the entire group are documented in a series of letters between the local chief of the group and his boss in w ashington. i believe they are worthy of publication, because they are a first-hand testimony to the successes, the frame of mind and the ultimate failure of the efforts to stop the smuggling of booze from Cuba. o ur heroes were fully aware of this and, utterly defeated, they relaxed in the bars of h avana with some booze, often in the company of their bosses arrived from the u nited s tates, for “ n otably, no prohibition official practiced temperate habits in h avana.”
m arco Pierini
by
Presented
WORLD
ALCOHOL of The Amazing
Join us as we explore the fascinating world of alcohols, their aldehydes, carboxylic acids, esters and much more.
WORLD ALCOHOL of The Amazing
Definition
The term Alcohol , refers to any of a class of organic compounds characterized by one or more hydroxyl (―OH) groups attached to a carbon atom of an alkyl group (hydrocarbon chain).
Alcohols may be considered as organic derivatives of water ( h 2 o ) in which one of the hydrogen atoms has been replaced by an alkyl group, typically represented by r in organic structures. For example, in ethanol (or ethyl alcohol) the alkyl group is the ethyl group, ―CH2CH3.
Alcohols are among the most common organic compounds. They are used as sweeteners and in making perfumes, are valuable intermediates in the synthesis of other compounds, and are among the most abundantly produced organic chemicals in industry. Perhaps the two best-known alcohols are ethanol and methanol (or methyl alcohol). e thanol is used in toiletries, pharmaceuticals, and fuels, and it is used to sterilize hospital instruments. i t is, moreover, the alcohol in alcoholic beverages. The anesthetic ether is also made from ethanol. m ethanol is used as a solvent, as a raw material for the manufacture of formaldehyde and special resins, in special fuels, in antifreeze, and for cleaning metals.
c lassifications
Alcohols may be classified as primary, secondary, or tertiary, according to which carbon of the alkyl group is bonded to the hydroxyl group. m ost alcohols are
colorless liquids or solids at room temperature. Alcohols of low molecular weight are highly soluble in water; with increasing molecular weight, they become less soluble in water, and their boiling points, vapour pressures, densities, and viscosities increase.
Another way of classifying alcohols is based on which carbon atom is bonded to the hydroxyl group. i f this carbon is primary (1°, bonded to only one other carbon atom), the compound is a primary alcohol. A secondary alcohol has the hydroxyl group on a secondary (2°) carbon atom, which is bonded to two other carbon atoms. s imilarly, a tertiary alcohol has the hydroxyl group on a tertiary (3°) carbon atom, which is bonded to three other carbons. Alcohols are referred to as allylic or benzylic if the hydroxyl group is bonded to an allylic carbon atom (adjacent to a C=C double bond) or a benzylic carbon atom (next to a benzene ring), respectively.
n omenclature
As with other types of organic compounds, alcohols are named by both formal and common systems. The most generally applicable system was adopted at a meeting of the i nternational u nion of Pure and Applied Chemistry ( iu PAC) in Paris in 1957. u sing the iu PAC system, the name for an alcohol uses the -ol suffix with the name of the parent alkane, together with a number to give the location of the hydroxyl group. The rules are summarized in a three-step procedure:
1. n ame the longest carbon chain that contains the carbon atom bearing the ―OH group. Drop the final -e from the alkane name, and add the suffix -ol.
2. n umber the longest carbon chain starting at the end nearest the oh group, and use the appropriate number, if necessary, to indicate the position of the ―OH group.
3. n ame the substituents, and give their numbers as for an alkane or alkene.
The example on the right has a longest chain of six carbon atoms, so the root name is hexanol. The ―OH group is on the third carbon atom, which is indicated by the name 3-hexanol. There is a methyl group on carbon 3 and a chlorine atom on carbon 2. The complete iu PAC name is 2-chloro-3-methyl-3-hexanol . The prefix cyclo- is used for alcohols with cyclic alkyl groups. The hydroxyl group is assumed to be on carbon 1, and the ring is numbered in the direction to give the lowest possible numbers to the other substituents, as in, for example, 2,2-dimethylcyclopentanol.
c ommon n ames
The common name of an alcohol combines the name of the alkyl group with the word alcohol. i f the alkyl group is complex, the common name becomes awkward and the iu PAC name should be used. Common names often incorporate obsolete terms in the naming of the alkyl group; for example, amyl is frequently used instead of pentyl for a five-carbon chain.
Physical Properties
m ost of the common alcohols are colorless liquids at room temperature. m ethyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, and isopropyl alcohol are free-flowing liquids with fruity aromas. The higher alcohols—those containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms—are somewhat viscous, or oily, and they have heavier fruity odors. s ome of the highly branched alcohols and many alcohols containing more than 12 carbon atoms are solids at room temperature.
WORLD ALCOHOL of The Amazing
ctanol
Aldehyde formed:
o ctanal / o ctyl aldehyde
c arboxylic acid formed : o ctanoic Acid / Caprylic Acid
e ster formed when reacting with itself:
o ctyl o ctanoate / o ctyl Caprylate o ctanoic Acid o ctyl e ster
1- o ctanol, also known as octan-1-ol, is the organic compound with the molecular formula C h 3(C h 2)7 oh i t is a fatty alcohol. m any other isomers are also known generically as octanols.
1- o ctanol is commonly manufactured for the synthesis of esters for use in perfumes and flavorings. i t has a pungent odor. e sters of octanol, such as octyl acetate, occur as components of essential oils.
1- o ctanol is also used to evaluate the lipophilicity of pharmaceutical products.
o ctanol is mainly produced industrially by the oligomerization of ethylene using triethylaluminium followed by oxidation of the alkylaluminium products. This route is known as the Ziegler alcohol synthesis.The process generates a range of alcohols, which can be separated by distillation.
The Kuraray process defines an alternative route to 1-octanol, but using C4 + C4 building strategy. 1,3-Butadiene is
dimerized concomitant with the addition of one molecule of water. This conversion is catalyzed by palladium complexes. The resulting doubly unsaturated alcohol is then hydrogenated.
o ctanol and water are immiscible. The distribution of a compound between water and octanol is used to calculate the partition coefficient, P, of that molecule (often expressed as its logarithm to the base 10, log P). w ater/octanol partitioning is a relatively good approximation of the partitioning between the cytosol and lipid membranes of living systems.
Toxicity
• After inhalation: fresh air.
• i n case of skin contact: Take off immediately all contaminated clothing. r inse skin with water/ shower.
• After eye contact: rinse out with plenty of water. Call in ophthalmologist. r emove contact lenses.
Aroma
• o ctanol is often described as having an aroma of orange and rose.
• o ctanal is often described as having a citrus, fatty aroma.
• o ctanoic Acid is often described as having a waxy and creamy smell.
• o ctyl acetate (the ester formed with ethanol) has a scent of jasmine.
o ctanol
o ctanoic Acid
AUGUST RUM IN
rU m in T he ne WS
by m ike Kunetka
These are the most recent and noteworthy headlines in the rum industry. i f you want us to share your news with our readers, please send me an email to: m ike@gotrum.com.
l A n T er A y
At last month’s Tales of the Cocktail event, m aison Ferrand introduced Planteray m ister Fogg n avy r um, a meticulously crafted rum blend that pays homage to the rich heritage and craftsmanship of n avy rum. d rawing from four of the main rumproducing Caribbean islands historically used in n avy blends (Barbados, Trinidad, g uyana and Jamaica) m ister Fogg is a spirit of unparalleled depth and complexity. Available as a limited edition, the rum launch is accompanied by the in-depth co-authored book e xploring 300 Years of r oyal n avy r um and i ts Techniques by m aison Ferrand owner and master blender Alexandre g abriel and rum historian m att Pietrek. The rum is a tribute to the late m ichael Fogg, a British naval veteran who joined ed &F m an, (supplier of rum to the British r oyal n avy), shortly after his naval service. h e was a key figure of the history of n avy rum, and his passion for this spirit significantly contributed to the authors’ understanding of what n avy rum truly is. Planteray m ister Fogg n avy r um and the book were born of a passion for uncovering bygone spirits, their place and importance in history and the desire to revive and celebrate the essence of true n avy rum with today’s spirits aficionados.
P
e xploring 300 Years of r oyal n avy r um and i ts Techniques is the result of five years of extensive, dedicated research, uncovering and analyzing historic documents. The 256-page book features exclusive in-depth exploration of the rich heritage and intricate production techniques that define r oyal n avy rum. For m ister Fogg n avy r um, rums from Barbados, Trinidad, g uyana and Jamaica were aged in ex-bourbon barrels in their countries of origin and then transported to the southwest of France, emulating the historic tradition of dynamic aging on ships. u pon arrival in the Cognac region, the blend underwent double aging in used oak barrels and extensive oxygenation in large, open wooden vats, replicating the humid environment of the British docks, enhancing maturation. https://www.maisonferrand.com
D i AG eo & PA m P ero
d iageo has agreed to the sale of Pampero r um to g ruppo m ontenegro, a leading i talian company in the premium spirits and food sectors with a portfolio that includes iconic i talian spirits brands such as Amaro m ontenegro, s elect Aperitivo, v ecchia r omagna Brandy and r osso Antico v ermouth. John Kennedy, d iageo’s President, e urope said: “The sale of Pampero demonstrates our disciplined and strategic approach to capital allocation. i t will allow us to concentrate on our portfolio’s core areas of strength as we accelerate towards our ambition; to be one of the best performing, most trusted and respected consumer products companies in the world.” Paul d ouek, g ruppo m ontenegro’s e xecutive Board m ember, commented: “ w e are delighted to announce the acquisition of Pampero, a rum that will significantly enhance our growth trajectory both within i taly and on the international stage. Pampero’s exceptional heritage and unique qualities will greatly enrich our spirits portfolio. w e are particularly pleased that this milestone has been achieved following the appointment of g ruppo m ontenegro’s new C eo , s ergio Fava. The acquisition of Pampero marks a new pivotal phase for g ruppo m ontenegro as we fortify our global expansion with our new leadership team”. https://www.diageo.com/, https://gruppomontenegro.com/
K olo A r U m com PA ny
Koloa r um Company and its distribution partner r epublic n ational d istributing Company ( rnd C) are expanding in the u . s . from 12 to 20 states. “The s pirit of Aloha” will now be available in g eorgia, s outh Carolina, l ouisiana, Texas, Colorado, m ichigan, m aryland and w ashington d .C. v arying by state, rnd C will distribute Koloa r um’s eight premium rum products. This includes Kauai w hite, g old, d ark, s pice, Coconut, Cacao, Coffee r um, and a five-year, Kauai r eserved s ingle-Barrel Aged r um; as well as ready-to-drink cocktails. “ i n 2024, Koloa r um has expanded its market reach to an additional 12 states due to the extraordinary demand for our h awaiian-inspired products from our loyal fanbase,”
said Bob g unter, President and C eo of Koloa r um Company. “ rnd C has been exceptional to work with over the years and, with their ongoing support, we’re confident that we will continue to grow and meet the increasing demand of our rum across the u nited s tates mainland.” i n addition to the rnd C market distribution, Koloa r um has also opened distribution in Arkansas with m oon d istributors; m assachusetts with m ain s treet w ine; and Tennessee with Best Brands i ncorporated. This brings the total distribution of Koloa r um products to 36 states, and w ashington d .C. https://koloarum.com/
SA n TA T ere SA
s anta Teresa 1796, v enezuela’s esteemed and oldest rum producer, has released their newest expression, s anta Teresa Arabica Coffee Cask Finish. This innovative and exceptional blend marks a groundbreaking moment for rum enthusiasts and coffee connoisseurs alike as well as the brand, which is introducing a new and refreshed brand visual identity designed to honor centuries of tradition while embracing a modernized aesthetic. s anta Teresa Arabica Coffee Cask Finish begins with the renowned s anta Teresa 1796, a triple-aged, award-winning v enezuelan s olera rum, cherished for its superpremium quality and minimal sugar content with just 3 grams of sugar per 750 ml bottle. This distinguished rum undergoes an additional transformation, spending three months in American white oak casks previously used to age a rum-based cold brew coffee. This meticulous process infuses the rum with rich coffee aromas and flavors, enhancing its depth and character without the use of additives. “ w e are thrilled to introduce the Arabica Coffee Cask Finish as the latest addition to our Cask Finish s eries. This expression exemplifies our unwavering dedication to innovation while honoring our rich v enezuelan heritage,” said Alberto v ollmer, C eo of s anta Teresa r um. “By combining some of the finest coffee and rum produced in v enezuela, we have created a blend that offers unparalleled depth and character. This release is a testament to our legacy of craftsmanship and our commitment to producing exceptional rum that celebrates our rich history and traditions.” https://www.santateresarum.com/
A n G o STU r A
Angostura has announced a strategic distribution agreement to export their global award-winning products to China. The agreement is with Caribbean Commercial m anagement ( h angzhou) Co. l td, a subsidiary of First Caribbean m arketing Company l td (‘FC m C’). FC m C is an established importer and exporter of Chinese goods into Trinidad and Tobago and the wider Caribbean. Caribbean Commercial m anagement ( h angzhou) Co. l td will be responsible for the marketing and distribution of Angostura’s rum and bitters range across China, including selling into the e-commerce, retail, and on-trade channels. s peaking at a signing ceremony for this new international agreement, C eo of Angostura, m r.
l aurent s chun commented, “ w e are excited to partner with Caribbean Commercial m anagement ( h angzhou) Co. l td as we take this important step in our global growth journey. China represents a tremendous opportunity for our brand. g iven the distributor’s understanding of the local market in China, we are confident that this partnership will significantly enhance our presence and drive our brand’s success in this dynamic region.” m anaging d irector of Caribbean Commercial m anagement ( h angzhou) Co. l td, m r. Charles Xiang Cheng expressed his commitment to promoting Angostura® brands in the Chinese market, “ i feel confident that the decision made by Angostura® to appoint the FC m C g roup as exclusive distributor for China, h ong Kong and m acau is a sound one. i t is my dream to get Angostura® manufacturing every day of the year to fulfil the orders for the Chinese market as everybody knows its size.”
i n other news, the distillery has launched Angostura Tribute d istiller’s Cut in the Baltics – l ithuania, Poland, s pain, and g ermany. i t will also be launched in France later this year. The Tribute d istiller’s Cut is the latest l imited- e dition rum from Angostura’s Private Cask Collection, produced in honor of the Company’s m aster d istiller, John g eorges. As one of the Caribbean region’s premier d istillers, m r. g eorges’ unique skill and finesse is what set their blends apart. h e spent forty years at Angostura® using his artistry skills, detailed knowledge and meticulously high standards in distilling, to craft rare blends. The blends from the Tribute d istiller’s Cut are from some of the most prestigious rums from aged reserves, including a 25-year-old, which is one of the oldest in Angostura’s inventory. https://angostura.com/
APP le T on e STAT e
Appleton e state has announced the launch of h earts Collection 1998, the latest release from the prestigious annual series. The new vintage, aged 25 tropical years on the Appleton e state, located in lush n assau v alley, is the eighth edition in the sought-after collection of extremely rare 100% pot still Jamaican rums. h and-selected by legendary m aster Blender d r. Joy s pence in partnership with rum connoisseur l uca g argano, this release showcases the exceptional depth and harmony of flavors in an advanced aged rum. Appleton e state h earts Collection 1998 will start rolling out in select us premium spirits retail outlets at the end of August. The h earts Collection is an ode to Appleton e state’s centuries of excellence in rum-making. As the oldest continuously operated rum distillery in Jamaica, Appleton e state is the custodian to one of the most extensive and luxurious collections of aging rum barrels in the world. To find the treasures in each h earts Collection release, d r. Joy s pence hand selects from the thousands of barrels of pot still rums aging in Appleton e state’s warehouses and collaborates with l uca g argano to identify the best of the best. The 1998 vintage from this year’s h earts Collection consists of a single proprietary marque distilled in a copper pot still, aged 25 years
and bottled in 2023. m aster Blender Joy s pence says, “The 1998 release is very special, not only for its incredible depth and age, but also because it pays homage to one of the most cherished releases of my career.” s he adds, “ h earts Collection 1998 closely replicates one of the rare marques used in the Appleton e state Joy Anniversary Blend. i ts striking vanilla notes and silky finish make this an ideal rum for sipping and savoring.” To receive exclusive updates and information about Appleton e state and the h earts Collection, including pre-sale information, fans can visit the brand’s website and sign up for the community newsletter. https://appletonestate.com/
K lyr r U m
K lY r r um, a super-premium 100% American-made crystal rum, announced the launch of two readyto-drink ( r T d ) flavor innovations just in time to round-out summer drinking occasions on n ational r efreshment d ay taking place on Thursday, July 25th. e mbodying the fun and freedom of warmer temperatures and longer days, these new patrioticthemed r T d s feature iconic flavors of summer with no artificial ingredients that capture the classic Americana spirit: ‘ s weet Tea of Freedom’ and ‘AllAmerican l emonade.’ Crafted with top-shelf crystal K lY r rum, these newly introduced, all-natural flavors join the existing K lY r brand portfolio of premium, non-carbonated r T d s that are sure to stand out for their pure ingredients that deliver a clean, crisp and smooth taste. w ith fewer calories than similar canned elixirs, the K lY r ‘Celebrate America’ limitededition entrants feature an AB v of 5.5% and are less sweet than most spirits-based lemonade and sweet tea r T d s without sacrificing on taste. “The spirits-based r T d category continues to be among the hottest areas of the drinks market, and we have carved out a niche within this segment that marries our super-premium K lY r rum along with healthier ingredients, natural flavors along with on-the-go convenience that consumers are searching for,” said Keith Krem, C oo of K lY r r um. “ o ur newest flavored K lY r r T d s bring the best of all worlds with refreshing, nostalgic flavors of summer –lemonade and sweet iced tea – that are the perfect refreshment for warmer weather, whether by the poolside, alongside a BBQ and other festive outdoor occasions.” “Classic American lemonade and sweet iced tea are synonymous with summer, and we’ve worked hard to capture these popular seasonal flavors without relying unnecessarily on sugar. u nlike much of the competition, there’s nothing artificial about our K lY r r T d s,” said l exi Close, h ead d istiller at h oly w ater d istillery where K lY r r um is hand-crafted. “ w e are sure consumers are going to love this latest addition to our K lY r ready-to-drink portfolio on T he day when everyone is celebrating the best in liquid refreshment.” https://klyrrum.com/
r U m fe ST K ey W e ST
Fans of rum can savor on-the-water fun, unique rum experiences, seminars and tastings, a concert and
more during the inaugural r um Fest Key w est in the historic seaport city. s et for w ednesday through s unday, Aug. 14-18, the festival incorporates a commemoration of n ational r um d ay on Friday, Aug. 16. s cheduled events showcase Key w est’s distilleries, landmarks and marine environment, as well as the rumrunning heritage that helped shape the island city during the 1920-1933 Prohibition era. The festival begins w ednesday evening, Aug. 14, with a tour of Key w est First l egal r um d istillery at 105 s imonton s t., followed by a live music sunset sail with the distillery team on a spacious Fury Key w est catamaran. Attractions Thursday, Aug. 15, include a cocktail cruise to one of Key w est’s offshore sandbars, a pool party featuring reggae and rum, a l ower Keys bar crawl via trolley and a cocktail contest for local mixologists. Capping the day’s temptations is an elegant four-course dinner with rum pairings at the h emingway s ocial Club, located at the h emingway r um Co./Papa’s Pilar d istillery, 201 s imonton s t. n ational r um d ay celebrations planned for Friday, Aug. 16, include the Key l ime Bicycle and r um Tour, a sandbar cocktail cruise and a cigar-rolling and rum experience at the r odriguez Cigar Factory, 113 Fitzpatrick s t. h eadlining the night is a concert by multi-platinum singer/songwriter and “trop rock” sensation Jesse r ice at the Key w est Theater, 512 e aton s t., followed by an after party. The festival’s undisputed highlight is the g rand Tasting at the h emingway r um Co., set for s aturday, Aug. 17, featuring more than 30 rum brands for attendees to sample. r ums represented are to include leading brands such as Pussers and Bacardi, artisan offerings such as m arsh h ouse r um and d own i sland, and award-winning local favorites Papa’s Pilar r um and Key w est First l egal r um. d uring the day s aturday, rum-o-philes can expand their knowledge of their favorite spirit during four seminars at the Perry h otel & m arina, 7001 s hrimp r oad on s tock i sland. s eminars are taught by local and national rum experts and are to include cocktails and small plates. The rum-focused revelry concludes s unday, Aug. 18, after a brunch and farewell event that feature the famous spirit. https://fla-keys.com/
KU le A n A r U m W or KS
i n the last few weeks, i have received news on four new blends from Kuleana. First, there is the third installment in their s pecial r elease program, e l s alvador 11. This single cask offering was column distilled from a molasses fermentation in e l s alvador in n ovember 2008. i t was aged in exbourbon barrels until Kuleana purchased it in the s pring of 2020. l iberated from the barrel at 63.5% AB v, they felt it was too hot for sipping. They tasted it at several proofs and picked 53% AB v, which brings out the luscious flavors with bold, but not numbing, heat. The second release is their Aged h awaiian r um Agricole. This is their h awaiian r um Agricole, which Forbes recently called “The w orld’s Top s ugarcane Juice-based r um”, and aged for 18 months in Cognac barrels. n ormally, they use this as the secret ingredient in their Nanea and Hōkūlei, but
it is so special, they released 288 bottles to their awesome supporters! Both of these two releases are only available at the Kuleana r um s hack on the Big i sland. The third release is n ani, a blend they created for Bevmo liquor stores. n ani [nahnee] is the h awaiian word for beautiful or glorious. The n ani blend of aged rums creates a beautiful experience to enjoy neat or in a classic Kuleana m ai Tai. n ani is a blend of two different rums: aged h awaiian rum agricole, distilled from their heirloom h awaiian sugarcane, and g uatemalan molassesbased rum, aged in Bourbon barrels for two years. The final release is a custom blend Kuleana created for the Four s easons r esort h ualalai, the first and only AAA Five- d iamond and Forbes Five- s tar resort on h awaii i sland. The r esort’s signature h ui h ui h ualalai Blend is featured in innovative cocktails throughout the resort’s restaurants and bars. i n addition, the h ualalai r esort will offer r um Farm Tours which will provide guests with an exclusive opportunity to visit the Kuleana sugar cane farm, where they grow forty varieties of h awaiian h eirloom sugar cane, and the Kuleana d istillery Tour, where they will see the fresh sugar cane juice distilled into h awaiian r um Agricole. https:// kuleanarum.com/, https://www.fourseasons.com/ hualalai/
B l A c K T o T
Black Tot has released m aster Blender’s r eserve 2024. This year their m aster Blender, o liver Chilton, has included a higher percentage of Barbadian rums to accentuate the rich tropical fruits in the blend. As always, he has looked to put his own spin on the blend, this year including a 1997 rum from Trinidad’s lost distillery Caroni. r e-imagining the lost art of naval perpetual blending; he began with rum drawn from m aster Blender’s r eserve from last year. Casks were then selected from Barbados, Trinidad, g uyana and Jamaica. These four unique country blends were then married together with their perpetual reserve, layered and perfectly balanced, to create m aster Blender’s r eserve 2024. As always, flagons of original r oyal n avy r um are added to the blend to keep the liquid history alive. 60% of the blend comes from six marks from Barbados, three from Foursquare, two from w est i ndies and one from m ount g ay. 25% of m aster Blender’s r eserve 2024 comes from four marks from Trinidad, three from Trinidad d istillers and one from Caroni. 5% of the blend comes from five marks from Jamaica, one from n ew Yarmouth, three from Clarendon and one from l ong Pond. 5% comes from g uyana, with two marks coming from d iamond d istillers. The final 5% is made up from the m aster Blender’s r eserve 2023 and o riginal r oyal n avy Flagons. e ven more impressive is the age, both Tropical and Continental, of these twenty marks. For a detailed breakdown of marks and ages, go to the Black Tot website, one of the most transparent and informative websites in the industry. https://blacktot.com/
The Sweet Business of Sugar
Indonesia
r egardless of distillation equipment, fermentation method, aging or blending techniques, all rum producers have one thing in common: sugarcane
w ithout sugarcane we would not have sugar mills, countless farmers would not have a profitable crop and we would not have rum!
ci GA r & r U m PA irin G
by Philip i li Barake
my name is Philip i li Barake, s ommelier by trade. As a result of working with selected restaurants and wine producers in Chile, i started developing a passion for distilled spirits and cigars. As part of my most recent job, i had the opportunity to visit many Central American countries, as well as, rum distilleries and tobacco growers.
But my passion for spirits and cigars did not end there; in 2010 i had the honor of representing Chile at the i nternational Cigar s ommelier Competition, where i won first place, becoming the first s outh American to ever achieve that feat.
n ow i face the challenge of impressing the readers of “ g ot r um?” with what is perhaps the toughest task for a s ommelier: discussing pairings while being well aware that there are as many individual preferences as there are rums and cigars in the world.
i believe a pairing is an experience that should not be limited to only two products; 2024 it is something that can be incorporated into our lives. i hope to help our readers discover and appreciate the pleasure of trying new things (or experiencing known things in new ways).
Philip # gr CigarPairing
The e xclusivo c ono Sur
o n April 20 of 2023, h abanos s A launched simultaneously in three markets their second r egional e dition of the e xclusivo Cono s ur ( s outh Cone e xclusive). The launch was done through Puro Tabaco s A in Buenos Aires (Argentina), by Comercial Cigar Chile lT d A at the Casa d el h abano in l as Condes, s antiago (Chile) and by Zincro in m ontevideo ( u ruguay).
The r egional e ditions started back in 2005, they are produced for specific markets and are available for purchase for no more than 2 years, as decided by h abanos s A.
The requirements for the r egional e ditions are very specific in some respects:
• a limited production
• the cigar format should not already be part of the selected brand
• it should not be sold outside the specified market during the first year and
• the selected brand should not be among the classic brands from h abanos s A (such as, Cohiba, r omeo y Julieta and Partagas, among others).
For this occasion they selected the Juan l ópez brand, one of the oldest brands in h abanos s A, created by a s paniard by the same name in 1870. These cigars have loyal followers, they are completely handmade using long filler, using leaves from the v uelta Abajo region of Cuba and with a medium to high body. w e are talking about the highest possible standards from h abanos s A.
Photos credit: @Cigarili
The Factory n ame ( v itola de g alera) for this e xclusivo Cono s ur is an e dmundo (52 x 5 1/3). This format was made famous by the classic m ontecristo that was launched in 2004 and it quickly earned loyal followers. i t was later released in a Tubo in 2008.
d ue to its success (and i count myself among its devoted followers), the format was ideal for this exclusive release. n ow that i ’m about to smoke it, i will find out how well it is made and if the intensity is similar to that of the Juan l ópez brand.
For this special occasion, i had to find a great rum for the pairing, thinking about approximately 50 minutes of smoking time. i t was the perfect time to bring out the r on v aradero 15 Year o ld, g ran r eserva de Cuba, one of the oldest rum brands in Cuba, dating back to 1844. This brand and s antiago de Cuba are my two favorite brands from Cuba.
As you already know by now, i also have a predilection for r um o ld Fashioned but, since the cocktail goes through different phases during the pairing, as does the cigar. There are several ways to make an o ld Fashioned. For this exercise, i chose to use brown sugar as a base, with a few drops of o range Bitters ( i used the Bitter Truth brand). i f you don’t have o range Bitters at home, you can substitute with regular Bitters, just make sure to add only a couple of drops. i then added the ice cubes to fill the glass and finished with a piece of orange peel, squeezing it first to release the oils inside the glass.
i used a straight guillotine to cut the cigar and then lit it up using a couple of cedar sticks, can’t get more classic than this!
The draw was an amazing 10 out of 10: this was a very well-made cigar, the initial strength was medium and the cocktail was slightly sweet. As i paired the two, i perceived hints of coffee,
aromatic tanned leather and notes of orange (from the peel and the bitters), which made me feel like i was walking on clouds during the first third of the cigar.
The cigar is burning exceedingly well. i f i had to give it a score for its draw and how it burns, it would be among the highest. i -however- am not into scores, instead i focus on the moment and how well it meets my expectations.
d uring the second third, the cigar shows a more robust face, closer to what connoisseurs expect from a Juan l ópez. The cocktail, meanwhile, starts to feature subtle hints of sweetness, intermingled with light touches of vanilla and coffee. This is happening as a result of the melting of the ice, combined with the sweetness from the sugar at the bottom of the glass. This change in the cocktail is a welcomed experience during the pairing, since it represents the ideal conditions we could hope for, executed seamlessly.
The best thing about this cigar format, for those of us who love r obustos, is that it gives us a similar experience but for a longer period of time, ideal if you have reserved the time and even better if you have a well-prepared cocktail by your side.
To sum up, one of the most memorable pairings thus far. i think the cigar is nearing the ideal time to be smoked, a great balance between intensity and aging time. i humbly recommend to all readers to try to replicate this pairing, do everything possible to secure one of these e xclusivo Cono s ur cigars before they disappear, it will be a memorable experience.
Cheers!
Philip i li Barake # gr CigarPairing
