Got Rum? ®
January 2025 from the grass to your glass, since 2001!
c ontents JANUARY 2025
5 From The e di T or 6-9 The Angel’s s h A re - r um r eviews
10-13 C oo K ing wi T h rum
14-17 T he rum mixologis T
18-19 T he rum universi TY® li B r A r Y
24-27 The rum his T ori A n
28-31 T he r um l AB or AT or Y
34-37 rum in T he news
38-47 T he swee T B usiness o F sug A r
48-55 The sug A r mill: origins A nd evolu T ion
56-59 C ig A r A nd rum PA iring g ot r um? January 2025 - 3
Got Rum? ®
Printed in the u s .A. A publication of r um r unner Press, i nc. Taylor, Texas 76574 - u s .A.
Tel/Fax +1 (855) rum -T i P s © 2025 by r um r unner Press, i nc. All rights reserved.
January 2025
e ditor and Publisher: luis@gotrum.com
e xecutive e ditor: margaret@gotrum.com
Cigar and r um: philip@gotrum.com
Angel’s s hare: paul@gotrum.com
r um h istorian: marco@gotrum.com
r um in the n ews: mike@gotrum.com
Cooking with r um: sue@gotrum.com
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d irector of Photography: art@gotrum.com
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F ron T C over : m emories And d reams inside s P re A d : r um g enesis
F rom T he edi T or
Turning The Page
i t is time again to welcome a new year full of expectations, hope, planning and the accompanying rewards we hope to earn in 2025.
d uring 2024 we saw a lot of craft distilleries shutting down, but we also saw a lot of new players come into the market.
w holesalers in the us A are making adjustments to their strategies, to avoid the problems that caused them so many headaches last year.
o pportunities are always lurking around, but you must prepare financially in order to take advantage of them. Being able to acquire used distillation/bottling equipment at a great price, for example, is no good if we don’t have the financial resources to consider the purchase.
i am looking forward to seeing how trends that started during the past few years are morphed by the current financial conditions. i am particularly keen to see how consumers react to environmentally conscious items that are priced higher than their less-green counterparts.
i am also keeping a close eye on low sugar, low-alcohol (including no-alcohol) alternatives, T h C-infused drinks, r T d ( r eady To d rink) and d TC ( d irect To Consumer) trends.
i hope that many craft distilleries took advantage of the r T d boom last year. For those that didn’t, there might still be time to do so this year, but i suggest researching the field and looking for the right opportunities, so that the volume associated with r T d production does not limit the bottling of higher-profit retail units later on, especially if the r T d products are well-received by consumers.
Author C. s l ewis famously wrote:
“You can’t go back and change the beginning, but you can start where you are and change the ending.”
r egardless of which trends emerge in the market, i hope that all producers reading these lines will be able to take advantage of them.
i want to end this month’s editorial by congratulating the staff at a rtisan s pirit m agazine for their upcoming 50th edition. A fantastic magazine by a fantastic team!
Cheers!
l uis Ayala, Editor and Publisher http://www.linkedin.com/in/rumconsultant
do you want to learn more about rum but don’t want to wait until the next issue of “got rum?”? Then join the “rum lovers unite!” group on linkedin for updates, previews, Q&A and exclusive material.
T he A ngel’ s sh A re
by Paul s enft
m y name is Paul s enft - r um r eviewer, Tasting host, Judge and w riter. m y exploration of r ums began by learning to craft Tiki cocktails for friends. i quickly learned that not all rums are created equally and that the uniqueness of the spirit can be as varied as the locales they are from. This inspired me to travel with my wife around the Caribbean, Central America, and u nited s tates visiting distilleries and learning about how each one creates their rums. i have also had the pleasure of learning from bartenders, brand ambassadors, and other enthusiasts from around the world; each one providing their own unique point of view, adding another chapter to the modern story of rum.
The desire to share this information led me to create www. r umJourney.com where i share my experiences and reviews in the hopes that i would inspire others in their own explorations. i t is my wish in the pages of “ g ot r um?” to be your host and provide you with my impressions of rums available in the world market. h opefully my tasting notes will inspire you to try the rums and make your own opinions. The world is full of good rums and the journey is always best experienced with others. Cheers!
w hile shopping at a local shop for a rum tasting i was curating, i discovered this rum on the shelf of one of my local stores. Kakira g old r um is produced at the distillery located on the Kakira s ugar e state in u ganda on the shores of l ake v ictoria at the source of the r iver n ile. The farm was established in 1930 and has grown to a 45,000-acre sugarcane farm. The cane grown is used for sugar production as well as powering the farm and surrounding cities, Kampala and e ntebbe.
As part of the farm’s operation, they use a column still to create ethanol neutral alcohol for power production as well as to make their vodka and gin products. For their rums, they ferment molasses and distill the liquid in a pot still. They then age the rum for their gold product in bourbon and sherry barrels for a minimum of five years. The rum is blended to 43% AB v and bottled on site.
a ppearance
The 750 ml custom-designed bottle has a black and gold label that provides a good bit of information about the rum. i t is sealed with a plastic cap that secures a synthetic cork to the bottle.
i n the bottle and glass, the rum holds a pale amber color. s wirling the liquid creates a medium band that quickly releases a couple of waves of legs before beading up and evaporating, leaving a ring of residue behind.
n ose
The initial aroma of the rum leads with caramel, followed by an array of dried fruit notes such as raisins, fresh-cut banana, apricots, plums, and orange zest highlighted by ginger and clove spices with
Kakira g old r um
a little nip of honey mixed with the spices. After the liquid rests for a few minutes, i detect notes of dark cacao, dried tobacco leaf, and roasted nuts.
Palate
The first sip leads with a strong swirl of caramel and alcohol. Additional sips have the fruit and spice notes from the aroma hitting hard midpalate while the foundation of the flavor profile provides earthy roasted coconut, dried tobacco, walnuts, and a light acidity that briefly manifests, but a warm honey note emerges and carries the earthier foundation flavors into a long, sweet, honey-nut dry finish.
r eview
o ne of the reasons i continue to enjoy reviewing rums is the pleasant surprises one finds exploring the rums the world offers. i was aware of rum production in u ganda, but this is the first time i have had the opportunity to taste one. Purchasing it blind off the shelf is always risky, but in this situation, i feel it provided an interestingly complex flavor experience. i t hits the palate a little hard for me to recommend for sipping, but i certainly enjoyed the aroma and flavor profile. The honey nut finish was a nice touch and it lingers on the palate long after the final sip.
w ith all the fruit and spice notes in the flavor profile, this rum has a versatility to it that would make it a good component in a variety of rum cocktails. There are some nuances that a skilled bartender may need to balance or tame depending on the drink, but overall, it held up well during my tasting session. For those who are looking to explore a new flavor experience, i recommend giving this rum a try and hope you enjoy experimenting with it.
T he A ngel’ s sh A re
by Paul s enft
r on m edellin e xtra Añejo 8 Años
The r on m edellin line is produced at the Fábrica de l icores y Alcoholes de Antioquia (F l A) distillery, aka the alcohol factory, in Colombia. The company is a state-owned operation that makes their rum from sugarcane and ages their rums in used bourbon barrels and blends them to 40% AB v Besides their rum, the company also produces: aguardiente, brandy, creams, gin, vodka, and low-proof ready-todrink ( r T d ) products. The company also produces alcohol-based products for medicinal and food production use.
a ppearance
The rum is packaged in a colorful box that holds the 750 ml bottle. Big on art, but slim on details, the box certainly stood out on the shelves. The clear glass custom-designed bottle has a plastic cap and a long neck wrap, both featuring the r on m edellin logo.
The liquid has a dark amber color in the bottle and glass. s wirling the rum creates a thin band that slowly thickens and releases a few waves of fast-moving legs before evaporating, leaving a ring of big beads around the glass.
n ose
The aroma is a light swirl of caramel, candied fruit, toasted cashews, and mocha.
Palate
The first sip of the rum delivers a chaotic swirl of vanilla, oak tannins, leather, candied fruit, mocha latte,
and a medicinal astringency. After letting the rum rest for a few minutes, i discovered the chaos had settled a bit and that the wood tannins provided a roasted cashew note balanced by overripe cantaloupe. A cherry-almond astringency kicks in hard and lingers in a long, woody finish.
r eview
w hile shopping in a local store, i found the r on m edellin line featured on one of the shelves as a new arrival. i had certainly heard of the brand, but i was not sure if i had ever had it. w hen i researched the product, i discovered information about the distillery and thought it would be interesting to explore their 8-year-old product.
d uring the evaluation process, i found the aroma to be simple and uncomplicated and a tad odd. The flavor profile is not balanced, and the wood notes are literally hitting all over the place. h owever, the most challenging part of the flavor profile for me is the overripe cantaloupe and cherry-almond medicinal astringency. These flavor components ruined the sipping experience and were not something i enjoyed. The aftertaste lingered on the palate and made me not want to experiment with it in a cocktail for recommendation purposes. i f you believe the flavor notes would be something you would enjoy, by all means pick it up to explore. h owever, this was not an experience i enjoyed and really do not care to repeat.
COOKING WITH RUM
Bringing the Spirit of the Cane Into the Heart of the Kitchen!
by Chef Susan Whitley
s heet Pan c hicken with s weet Potatoes, a pples and Brussels s prouts
i ngredients:
• 4 Boneless s kinless Chicken Breasts, trimmed of excess fat and lightly pounded to a relatively even thickness
• 3 Tbsp. e xtra-virgin o live o il, divided
• 4 g arlic Cloves, minced
• 2 Tbsp. Fresh r osemary, chopped and divided
• 1 tsp. g round Cinnamon
• 1 tsp. g round n utmeg
• 1 tsp. s ea s alt, divided
• ½ tsp. g round Black Pepper, divided
• 4 Tbsp. d ark r um, divided
• 4 C. (1 lb.) Brussels s prouts, trimmed and halved (quarter if very large)
• 1 l arge s weet Potato, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 1 m edium r ed o nion, cut into 3/4inch pieces
• 1 m edium h oneycrisp Apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1-inch pieces (these pieces should be larger than the vegetables)
i nstructions:
• Preheat the oven to 425°F.
• Place the chicken breasts in a large ziptop bag. d rizzle with 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, then add the garlic, 1 tablespoon rosemary, cinnamon, nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper and 2 tablespoons of d ark r um. Zip the bag tightly, then shake and rub the bag to coat the chicken in the oil and spices. s et aside while you chop the vegetables and apple.
• o nce chopped, place the Brussels sprouts, sweet potato, onion, and apple on a large, rimmed baking sheet. d rizzle with the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, then sprinkle with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper and d ark r um. Toss to evenly coat, then spread into an even layer.
• r emove chicken from bag and place on top of the apple and vegetables. Place in the oven and roast until the chicken is cooked through (internal temperature needs to reaches 165°F) about 20 to 25 minutes, or until done. o nce the chicken is cooked through, remove from pan and place on a plate to rest. Cover plate with foil to keep chicken warm.
• Toss the apple and vegetables on the pan, then return the pan to the oven and continue baking until caramelized and tender, about 15 minutes. s prinkle with the remaining one tablespoon fresh rosemary. i f desired, add another 2 tablespoons of d ark r um. s erve warm with the rested chicken.
Photo credit: www.wellplated.com
i ngredients
• 1 ¼ C. s ugar
h ot f udge Pudding c ake
• 1 C. All Purpose Flour
• ½ C. Cocoa Powder
• 2 tsp. Baking Powder
• ¼ tsp. s alt
• ½ C. w hole m ilk
• 1/3 C. Butter, melted
• 1 ½ tsp. v anilla e xtract
• 3 Tbsp. d ark r um
• ½ C. Brown s ugar
• 1 ¼ C. h ot w ater
i nstructions:
1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
2. g rease an 8 in. x 8 in. baking pan.
3. Combine 3/4 cup sugar, flour, 1/4 cup cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. s tir in the milk, butter, vanilla extract, and d ark r um. m ix well then spread batter into baking pan.
4. i n a small bowl, combine the 1/2 cup sugar, brown sugar, and 1/4 cup cocoa powder. s prinkle dry mixture evenly over cake batter.
5. Pour hot water evenly over dry mixture, do not stir.
6. Bake for about 35 minutes.
7. r emove from oven and scoop into bowls. s erve with ice cream.
Photo credit: www.life-in-the-lofthouse.com
THE RUM Mixologist
A space devoted to the exploration of classic and new rum cocktails
What i s m ixology?
m ixology is the study and skill of inventing, preparing and serving cocktails and other mixed drinks. m ixologists are experts in this field, but mixologists’ knowledge goes beyond memorizing basic cocktail recipes: it includes historical information, basic chemistry behind flavor combinations and a capacity for combining common ingredients in new ways.
Join us, as we explore the essential collection of rum cocktail recipes that every mixologist needs to master.
THE RUM Mixologist
This m onth’s Cocktail:
The d aiquiri
h istory
The drink was supposedly invented by an American mining engineer named Jennings Cox, who was in Cuba (then at the tailend of the s panish Captaincy- g eneral government) at the time of the s panish–American w ar of 1898. i t is also possible that w illiam A. Chanler, a us congressman who purchased the s antiago iron mines in 1902, introduced the daiquiri to clubs in n ew York in that year.
o riginally the drink was served in a tall glass packed with cracked ice. A teaspoon of sugar was poured over the ice, and the juice of one or two limes was squeezed over the sugar. Two or three ounces of white rum completed the mixture. The glass was then frosted with a longhandled spoon. l ater the daiquiri evolved to be mixed in a shaker with the same ingredients but with shaved ice. After a thorough shaking, it was poured into a chilled coupe glass.
c lassic Daiquiri
i ngredients
• 1 1/2 ounces light rum
• 3/4 ounce freshly squeezed lime juice
• 1/2 to 3/4 ounce simple syrup, to taste
Directions
1. Add all ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled with large ice cubes.
2. s hake well and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
3. s erve and enjoy.
r eviews of books related to sugarcane, milling, fermentation, distillation, aging, blending and other topics related to the production or history of rum.
www. r um u niversity.com
(Publisher’s r eview)
Around the World in 80 Cocktails celebrates the globetrotting history of the cocktail through eighty different iconic drinks – each of which has its own story to tell. Bartender and writer Chad Parkhill takes you on a whirlwind tour of the places that have shaped the history of the cocktail from its birth to the present day, with recipes so you can follow along at home.
a round the World in 80 c ocktails by c
had Parkhill
You’ll learn about the surprising military history behind the bubbly, vivacious v enetian s pritz; how the g &T moved from i ndia to e ngland (and why the best in the world are now made in s pain); and how France’s Burgundy region turned tragedy into triumph with the Kir. Accompanied by gorgeous vintage-style illustrations that evoke antique travel posters, these stories and recipes are an ode to the joys of travel, history, and drinking.
About the Author
C h A d PA r K hill is a writer and bartender who lives in m elbourne, Australia.
Publisher: h ardie g rant Books;
i llustrated edition ( o ctober 3, 2017)
l anguage: e nglish
h ardcover: 192 pages
is B n -10: 1741175186
is B n -13: 978-1741175189
i tem w eight: 1.1 pounds
d imensions: 6.1 x 0.85 x 7.55 inches
g ot r um? January 2025 - 20
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A: r um Central is located within the texas triangle , a region in Texas formed by the state’s four main metropolitan areas. The texas triangle is one of eleven mega regions in the u nited s tates and is home to approximately 75% of the s tate’s population. This area also benefits substantially from trade with m exico, the u nited s tates’ third largest trade partner.
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A: Contact us via our website below! www. r umCentral.com
the rum historian
by m arco Pierini
i was born in 1954 in a little town in Tuscany ( i taly) where i still live. i n my youth, i got a degree in Philosophy in Florence and i studied Political s cience in m adrid, but my real passion has always been h istory and through h istory i have always tried to understand the world, and men. l ife brought me to work in tourism, event organization and vocational training, then, already in my fifties i discovered rum and i fell in love with it.
i have visited distilleries, met rum people, attended rum Festivals and joined the r um Family. i have studied too, because r um is not only a great distillate, it’s a world. Produced in scores of countries, by thousands of companies, with an extraordinary variety of aromas and flavors, it is a fascinating field of studies. i began to understand something about sugarcane, fermentation, distillation, ageing and so on.
s oon, i discovered that rum has also a terrible and rich h istory, made of voyages and conquests, blood and sweat, imperial fleets and revolutions. i soon realized that this h istory deserved to be researched properly and i decided to devote myself to it with all my passion and with the help of the basic scholarly tools i had learnt during my old university years.
i n 2017 i published the book “A meri CA n rum – A s hort h istory of r um in e arly America”
i n 2019 i began to run a Blog: www. therumhistorian.com
i n 2020, with my son Claudio, i have published a new book “F ren C h rum – A h istory 1639-1902”.
i am currently doing new research on the h istory of Cuban r um.
his T or Y o F C u BA n rum
24. Y ou m AY drin K
A s mu C h A s Y ou w A n T T o
Basil d illon w oon (1893 - 1974) was a British playwright and journalist, very famous in the first half of the 1900s. i n 1928, he published a book, “ When It’s Cocktail Time in Cuba ”, in which he tells about the gilded life of the rich American tourists and of their Cuban friends.
w oon tells us (almost) nothing about the reality of Cuba outside his narrow circle of privileged people, except to excessively praise the government of m achado, then in office, and the exquisite kindness of the Cuban police! i t is true that in 1928 Cuban President g erardo m achado was not yet the dictator he would become a little later and that the Cuban police were much more tolerant of American tourists than they were of their own citizens, but come on, his praises are perhaps a bit exaggerated.
w oon talks a lot about rum, but only Bacardi, while nothing, absolutely nothing is said about other brands, as if they did not exist. s o much so that i suspect some form of sponsorship, both from Bacardi and the Cuban government. And my suspicion is reinforced when i read on Amazon that the book was “privately
g ot r um? January 2025 - 24 g ot r um? January 2025 - 24
published”. m ine is only a suspicion, without any evidence, let it be clear. Yet, as a very powerful and much discussed i talian statesman said many years ago, “to think the worst of someone is a sin, but often you are spot on”.
h owever, even with these limits, the book is a precious source, which gives us a unique insight into tourism in Cuba during Prohibition. Furthermore, as our most experienced readers will notice, w oon’s book is also the source of many stories about rum and Cuban bars found in many books, articles, websites etc. A source sometimes correctly acknowledged, other times not. i n short, for all these reasons (and for others that we will address in the next articles), it is a book that deserves to be better known by all rum enthusiasts.
i have therefore decided to dedicate three articles to it, presenting you with the excerpts that seem most interesting to me. m y intervention is limited to simple notes in italics which, i hope, will help contextualise and make the text more easily understandable, along with some brief reflections. h appy reading.
In the foreword, Woon introduces his book in this way, and drinking immediately takes center stage.
This book was not written as an ‘impression’ of Cuba, nor as a guide. i have merely amused myself by setting down on paper what the tourist to Cuba will see, do (and drink) in a land where personal liberty and climate blended in just the right setting of beauty and romance.
And then he informs us about the new American trend of tourist travel to Cuba, instead of going to France as was the tradition.
“ h ave one in h avana” seems to have become the winter slogan of the wealthy. The bells of s anta Clara are sounding auspiciously in n orthern ears. i t is becoming fashionable to follow in the footsteps of Columbus. s o thronged with Americans has the r iviera become that these same Americans are turning nearer home for something more satisfyingly foreign, realizing suddenly that only sixty
miles from their own shores is a city so completely exotic that they may be as superior as they please.
An American abroad is not happy unless he can feel thoroughly superior and a sine qua non of this superiority is that the country he visits should have a language different from his own.
i assure you that i wot [sic ]– a lot – of what i am saying, and it is my solemn opinion the future of Cuba touristically depends not so much upon its climate, as is fallaciously believed, as upon the fact that Cuba is a foreign – a very foreign – land.
That is, if I understood correctly, in Cuba they do not speak English, but Spanish, and even this, according to Woon, makes the island exotic and attractive. An interesting opinion, but I think that maybe it was true in 1928, when tourists were a minority of privileged, wealthy, cultured people who had already seen many things in the world. Nowadays, with modern mass tourism, I believe it is no longer true.
But why did Americans love Cuba so much? Here is Woon’s answer.
Cuba at present has four very distinct appeals to the American tourist, and i list them in order of their importance, knowing well that practically every reader will think i err in not putting n umber Two first:
1. i t is utterly foreign.
2. i t has “personal liberty” carried to the n th degree.
3. i ts climate is among the finest in the world.
4. i ts history is the colorful history of romance and adventure.
And immediately afterward he delves into the subject, reasoning about the true meaning of personal liberty.
As to personal liberty, it depends upon what your definition is of that useful commodity. w hatever the truth anent the legend of the kind h avana policeman may be, it seems that personal liberty in Cuba may be
interpreted as meaning:
1. You may drink as much as you want to.
2. You may buy as many drinks for your friends as you wish.
3. You may chance your luck at the lottery.
4. You may lose as much money as you desire in the Casino.
5. You need not to carry your marriage certificate with you.
6. You may stare at the pretty señoritas because such staring in Cuba is a compliment – not a crime.
7. You need no visa to your passport to enter Cuba, no identity card if you remain.
Among the normal tourists there are many American and European celebrities. But when is the best time to go to Cuba?
Through the s evilla lobby at “tea” time (one or two h avana visitors do actually drink tea) flows the social tide, as colorful and brilliant here as e urope at its gayest, especially during these all-too-few weeks that have come to be known as “the season”. The season is lengthening year by year and in time to come will probably last from n ovember to April, for during these six months the weather is dry and well-nigh perfect. The snobbery of society, with its restless insistence on change, will have a
“high” season, however, and this begins shortly after the n ew Year and culminates at the end of m arch. The most notable month is February. h avana is crowded with tourists and visitors from the opening of the racing season, on or about the ninth od d ecember, to the closing night of the Casino in m arch.
The whole Chapter III is about drinking and the very title is extremely intriguing: where ever Y one is drin K ing A nd no T A soul is drun K!
Maybe you’ll remember that we have already come across other foreign travelers claiming that Cubans drink moderately and that they were never truly drunk. I am not so sure. Maybe it was just a matter of perception and comparison with the U.S. where Prohibition had won its long battle also because drunkenness was a real social scourge (see HISTORY OF CUBAN RUM 14. RUM CONSUMPTION IN XIX CENTURY’S CUBA in the December 2023 issue). Anyway, here’s what he writes.
Prohibition in the u nited s tates may have added to the number of ‘American’ bars, but the corner bodega has always flourished. A bodega is part grocery, part tobacco shop, and part saloon. g enerally it is a restaurant as well. … e xisting strictly as restaurant they would lose money, for only a few of them are filled at any hour of the day, but the bar saves them. e very restaurant and nearly every grocery in h avana is a barroom. There are, it is said, 7,000 of them.
i t is in fact that h avana is a place where practically everyone likes his little drink or two, but where nobody ever seems to get drunk. s lightly woozy, perhaps, and it may be that now and again a visitor may even find himself a wee bit foozy, not to say joozy, but it doesn’t happen often and anything beyond the joozy stage is practically unknown.
And here are the famous Cuban cocktails and the first mention of Bacardi, many more will follow.
The earnest drinkers of h avana have certain preferences in the way of refreshments. The most popular and most healthful drink is called daiquiri and is merely Bacardi with lime-juice, shaken up until the shaker is covered with frost.
The original cane-planters of Cuba and l ouisiana had a drink which they made out of rum and squeezed limes, ice, a dash of grenadine, and siphon-water. i t was drunk out of tall, frosted glasses and was called ‘Planter’s Punch’.
Planter’s Punch was the usual drink of the Cuban Americans, but down in s antiago where a group used to meet in the v enus bar every morning at eight o’clock it was modified to exclude the grenadine and siphon-water and was made in a shaker. i nstead of Jamaican rum the pure Cuban Bacardi, distilled in s antiago from molasses, was used. The boys used to have three or four every morning. m ost of them worked in the d aiquiri mines, the superintendent of which was a gentleman named Cox – Jennings Cox. o ne morning in the v enus Cox said: “Boys, we’ve been drinking this delicious little drink for some time, but we’ve never named it. l et’s christen it now!” The boys milled around a bit and finally Cox said: “ i ’ll tell you what, lads – we all work at d aiquiri and we all drank this drink first there. l et’s call it a d aiquiri.
The d aiquiri is now the best-known drink in Cuba. This recipe for the real d aiquiri was given me by Facundo Bacardi [ not the founder, of course, but one of his descendants with the same name ] and confirmed by one of the men who was present at the christening: half of lime, squeezed onto one teaspoon of sugar; pour in one whiskey-glassful of Bacardi; plenty of ice; shake until shaker is thoroughly frosted outside. m eanwhile, chill a tall wine-glass of the kind known as flute, fill it with shaven ice, and pour in the mixture. m ust be drunk frozen or is not good. The “bacardi cocktail” and pronounced “bacA r di”, common in n ew York and e urope, is unknown in Cuba. The proper pronunciation of the name “Bacardi”
stresses the last syllable. l ater on, in s antiago, we shall see how the rum is made.
The two other cocktails mostly in demand in h avana are the presidente and the m ary Pickford. The presidente is made with half Bacardi and half French vermouth, with a dash of either curaçoa or grenadine. i t is the aristocrat of cocktails and is the one preferred by the better class of Cuban. The m ary Pickford, invented during a visit to h avana of the screen favorite by Fred Kaufman, is two-thirds pineapple-juice and one-third bacardi, with a dash of grenadine. Both cocktails are sweetish and should be well shaken. The pineapple juice must be fresh-squeezed.”
The chapter on drinking ends in this way:
i t’s never mañana when it comes to drinking in h avana. You need never put off until tomorrow the drinks that should cool you today. s ugar, seegars and señoritas form the background, and rum, so to speak, the foreground. … s o many more or less excellent life-saving stations exist in h avana that practically every reader of this book will know of at least one we haven’t mentioned. s ome will wonder why we are not rhapsodize over the Ambos m undos pilsener; others will insist that the comfortable bar of the Almendares h otel supplies the coldest and tastiest martinis; other will wish to visit Pat Cody and Jigg’s u ptown Bar; still others will urge the merits of sundry drinks and sud-dried bartenders at the big bodegas neighboring Central Plaza. To these i say i ’m sorry; i would like to make this stroll around the camel’s milk dispensaries really complete, but there are other things to h avana besides booze. i n fact, liquor in h avana is nothing more than accessory before, during and after de fact. i t easily and gently lubricates one’s pat through the fascinating labyrinth of Cuba’s pleasures. i n the course of this book we shall, like every visitor, return - now and again - for another drink.
Thus, we finish the first article dedicated to Woon’s book. See you next month.
m arco Pierini
The Rum Laboratory
Presented by
Join us as we explore the world of rum spices and flavors! i n this series you will learn to flavor your own r ums and to create your own l iqueurs and c reams.
making your own Angelica Root Rum Liqueur
i ngredients:
• 1 Cup w hite r um
• ½ Cup Aged r um
• 3 Tbsp Finely Chopped, d ried Angelica r oot ( Angelica archangelica )
• 1 Tbsp Almond s livers
• 1/4 Cup d ried Apricots, finely chopped
• 1/8 tsp g round Allspice
• 1/8 tsp g round Cinnamon
• 1 tsp Anise e xtract
• 1/8 tsp g round Coriander s eeds
• 1 Cup s ugar
• 1 ½ Cups w ater
• 1 d rop Yellow Food Coloring
• 1 d rop g reen Food Coloring
d irections:
Combine all but the last four ingredients in a 1-quart jar with a lid. Cover and let the mix stand in a cool, dark place for 2 weeks, making sure to shake it every couple of days.
s train the solids out. Combine sugar and water and bring to a boil until all sugar crystals are dissolved. Add this simple syrup to the strained liquid and add the two drops of food coloring. s eal the jar and let it rest for 3 to 4 weeks.
Did you Know t hat...
... Angelica root is used to flavor widelyknown alcoholic beverages, such as Chartreuse, Benedictine, v ermouth, Absinthe and d ubonnet?
... its roots have been used in traditional medicine to treat a diverse range of disorders, including gastrointestinal, respiratory and nervous?
... British botanist John g erard, author of the famous book Herball, or Generall Historie of Plants (1597) claimed that it could “ cureth the bitings of mad dogs and all other venomous beasts ”?
... the plant is so aromatic (every part of it) that it is also used to create perfumes?
RUM And The e nvironment
ACT ion i T ems
January’s a ction i tem i s . . .
t hink Waste a voidance
A simple way to start your sustainable lifestyle is to avoid waste where possible. Plan ahead when shopping and consider the environmental and social impacts of what you are buying. i n your choices, limit the potential for wasted food, unwanted gifts, single-use products, and excess packaging.
As you incorporate this action item into your daily personal life, also explore if the alcohol beverage trade can clean up its act too, reducing its impact on the environment and, quite possibly too, reducing unnecesary expenses.
• d oes the fancy bottle at the store need to be in a canister or wooden box?
• d oes the bartender need to include a plastic straw and/or swizzle stick in the cocktail?
s tay tuned, as each month we explore more ways to protect the environment!
r
um in the ne W s
by m ike Kunetka
These are the most recent and noteworthy headlines in the rum industry. i f you want us to share your news with our readers, please send me an email to: m ike@gotrum.com.
KOLŌA RUM COMPANY
Kōloa Rum Company, Hawaii’s award-winning rum producer and the o fficial r um of the l as v egas r aiders, introduced The r aiders 65th Anniversary Limited Edition Kōloa Spice Rum. This launch celebrates the ongoing partnership with the n F l team that began in 2021. l as v egas is often referred to as the “ninth island” of h awaii for its large population of native h awaiians and Pacific i slanders. This limitededition rum is the second release with the r aiders this year, following the r um r usher h awaiian r um Cocktail in m ay. These releases mark the continuation of a successful union, offering fans a unique experience that merges “The s pirit of Aloha” with the iconic r aiders team spirit.
“This spice rum is a true celebration of the r aiders’ legacy and our shared commitment to excellence,” said Bob Gunter, President & CEO of Kōloa Rum Company. “ o ur artisanal rum is crafted for moments like this, and we’re honoring the passion of r aiders fans and bringing the essence of h awaii’s warmth and culture to every bottle. w e’re thrilled to continue supporting the team’s success this season and beyond.”, Crafted from pure cane sugar and pristine rainwater from m ount Waiʻaleʻale, the Raiders 65th Anniversary Limited Edition Kōloa Spice Rum is bottled at 44% ABV. https://koloarum.com/.
K uleana rum W or K s
o n January 3rd, Kuleana r um w orks will introduce the fourth installment in its s pecial r elease Program, Jamaica 13.
Jamaica 13 started as a molasses wash and underwent the famously free-spirited fermentation that includes wild yeasts and bacteria to form undeniable and hard to replicate flavors that Jamaican rums are famous for. i t was pot stilled for maximum flavor in 2006 and aged in a Bourbon barrel in Jamaica for 10 years. i t was then shipped to the u K (where Kuleana found it) continuing to age for another 3+ years until Kuleana purchased it in 2020. They emptied the not-quite-full barrel in 2020 at a spicy 54.6% AB v, then proofed it to a gorgeous 47% AB v, netting just 211 bottles. Kickoff festivities will start at noon on January 3rd at the Kuleana r um s hack in the Queens’ Marketplace in Waikōloa on the Big Island, h awaii and will feature tastings, bespoke cocktails and specially crafted pupus.
l ast month, Kuleana launched its r um & g uest Chef s eries featuring guest chefs who pair the Kohala Coast company of farmers, distillers and blenders’ liquor with innovative dishes. The first event was at their Tasting r oom at the Kuleana r um s hack and featured the theme “ r um & h awai‘i i sland Pork,” with a crafted 4-course dinner, each paired with signature Kuleana r um w orks rum. The featured chefs were: Chef o lelo Pa’a o gawa: A celebrated h awaiian culinary icon with more than 50 years of experience. Born and raised on a sugar plantation in Waipahū, o ’ahu, o gawa’s deep connection to the land and dedication to showcasing locally sourced ingredients earned her numerous accolades, including induction into the h awai’i r estaurant Association h all of Fame. h er expertise in farm-to-table cuisine reflects her passion for sustainability and traditional h awaiian cooking.
Chef g eorge g omes Jr.: g omes brings more than 35 years of culinary experience and has had executive positions at h awai’i’s finest resorts and restaurants from the Kohala Coast to m aui. h e’s dazzled diners worldwide with appearances that include n ew York City and Tokyo. h e blends traditional and modern techniques.
“This is an amazing opportunity to showcase the deliciousness and versatility of Kuleana rums alongside the craft and passion of chefs, farmers, fishers, producers and brewers that together create the dynamic culinary scene of h awai‘i i sland,” said Keith m allini, vice president of hospitality for Kuleana r um w orks. https://kuleanarum.com/
ha V ana clu B tra D emar K W ar
o n d ecember 1st, 2024, the bipartisan n o s tolen Trademarks h onored in America Act, authored by California Congressman d arrell i ssa was signed into law by President Biden. The bill was co-led by Florida Congresswoman d ebbie w asserman s chultz and advanced in the s enate by Florida s enator m arco r ubio and n evada s enator Catherine Cortez m asto. “This bill righted a historic injustice by ensuring that American trademarks stolen by the
Cuban regime will no longer be recognized on u s soil. This is more than just a law on the books: i t is a declaration that the bond between the American people and their intellectual property is sacred, and its confiscation without consent is no less of a theft than the robbing of a bank. m y thanks to Congresswoman w asserman s chultz, as well as s enators r ubio and Cortez m asto, for their leadership and dedication to this very just cause,” said r ep. i ssa. “ o ur most fundamental responsibility is protecting Americans from being victimized by our adversaries. This means standing up to foreign malign actors who take advantage of loopholes in our laws to profit from stolen trademarks.” said r ep. w asserman s chultz. “ i ’ve heard Cuban-American constituents recount how their families were stripped of hard-earned wealth, expropriated by autocratic regimes. i ’m grateful to President Biden for signing our bill into law and demonstrating the u nited s tates’ continuing commitment to combating intellectual property theft.” The bill will prohibit u s . courts and executive branch agencies from recognizing, enforcing, or otherwise validating any assertion of rights by an individual for a trademark used in connection with a business or assets confiscated by the Cuban regime, unless the original owner of the trademark expressly consented to the transfer of the trademark. https://issa.house.gov/ media/press-releases
B leu magic rum
Bleu m agic r um, d ominica’s first premium rum, is proud to announce a groundbreaking partnership with award-winning Bouyon artist m r. r idge, marking a pivotal moment in its journey to redefine the global rum scene. Together, Bleu m agic and r idge will bring a bold, rebellious energy to rum enthusiasts worldwide, celebrating the vibrant culture and spirit of the n ature i sland. Bleu m agic, represents a new era for Caribbean rum. i nspired by the m aroons of d ominica, famed for their resilience and defiance against slavery, the rum embodies a “spirit of rebellion” rooted in history yet designed for modern tastes. As a Black-owned brand in an industry dominated by titans with little connection to the Caribbean region, save for its complex colonial past, Bleu m agic stands apart as an authentic export of d ominican heritage and craftsmanship. The inspiration for Bleu m agic lies in the legacy of d ominica’s m aroons, enslaved Africans who escaped plantations and resisted oppression, carving out lives of freedom in the island’s rugged mountains. m ade at the Belfast e state, where rum-making has thrived since the late 1800s, Bleu m agic respects this tradition. i t also creates a bold new path. i ts sleek branding, premium quality, and cultural connection aim to shift old perceptions of rum. “ w e wanted to create a rum that captures the essence of d ominica, its wild beauty, its rebellious spirit, and its rich history,” says e lroy h arrow, brand manager for Bleu m agic. “ w ith r idge as our ambassador, we’re showing the world what the Caribbean has to offer,a premium, authentic product with global appeal.” https://bleumagicrum.com/
ar D ent s P irits ac Q uires D ar K matter D istillers
Beveridge website s pirit Business recently reported that independent whisky bottler Ardent s pirits has acquired d ark m atter d istillers, s cotland’s first rum distillery, for an undisclosed sum. Aberdeenshirebased d ark m atter d istillers became s cotland’s first rum distillery when it was launched in 2015 by brothers Jim and John e wan. Following the purchase, the former d ark m atter’s distillery has closed and production has moved to Ardent s pirits’ flagship Burnobennie d istillery in Banchory, Aberdeenshire. m ike r oberts, the former head distiller for d ark m atter, will continue to oversee production of the distillery’s original rum at the new facility. s imon m orrice will oversee the d ark m atter segment of the business as w holesale and Commercial m anager. “ w e felt compelled to acquire d ark m atter r um because of its deep connection to s cotland’s rich distilling heritage,” said m orrice. “This is a brand that broke boundaries as s cotland’s first rum distillery, and we are thrilled to continue its journey under the Ardent s pirits banner.” s ince the acquisition, Ardent s pirits said demand for d ark m atter r um has surged. The brand is now available through a growing network of suppliers and on Amazon. Ardent s pirits will also expand the d ark m atter product line, with plans to release a coffee liqueur and a pineapple liqueur. “This is a new chapter for d ark m atter r um,” added m orrice. “ w e’re committed to honoring its heritage while exploring fresh ideas to delight our customers.” https://www.ardentspirits.co.uk/
V ii international scientific technical collo Q uim
The Cuban n ews Agency reported that “The Knowledge of Cuban l ight r um m asters as i ntangible Cultural h eritage of h umanity” was the opening lecture of the vii i nternational s cientific-Technical Colloquium held at the s an g eronimo College in h avana last month. ms c Yahima e squivel m oynelo, a professor at s an g eronimo and d irector of Communication and i mage of the m inistry of Foreign Affairs, gave the lecture at the event organized two years after unes C o established this knowledge as i ntangible h eritage of h umanity. Featured in the program are topics such as mathematical modeling in phytosanitary treatment systems, classification of sugarcane spirits by main component analysis, and sugarcane and rum in Cuba, addressed in lectures by renowned light rum masters and other specialists. There were also tours around the o ld s ection of h avana, which is also inscribed in the unes C o w orld h eritage l ist, and visits to the m useum of r um, in addition to a cultural gala in the evening at the m inor Basilica of s t. Francis of Assisi. The Colloquium, a prelude to the 2025 Cuban r um Festival, gathers participants from a dozen countries.
mount gay
Barbados Today reported last month that m ount g ay has opened its fifth rum aging bond, increasing storage capacity by nearly 50 percent. The new bond
will house an additional 18,000 barrels, pushing the distillery’s total capacity to 64,000 barrels, m aster Blender Trudiann Branker said. “Prior to having this bond, our capacity was roughly 44,000 barrels. n ow, with this bond, we can hold about 64,000. s o, it’s really an investment in the future because most of the rums that we age here will not be for today’s consumption but will be for the next five years, ten years, 15 years. i t’s really about making sure that we’re able to have the reserves that we need to be able to satisfy the demand specifically for our more premium offerings. w e talked about innovation in a big way when we opened the bond and in order to be able to satisfy the innovation pipeline, you need maturing rums. Building this bond allows us to have these different styles of rum here to be able to further innovate and really occupy that premium space in your rum industry.” Antoine Couvreur, managing director of m ount g ay d istilleries, which has been fully owned for the last ten years by French spirits giant r émy Cointreau, said the new bond was a significant development for the rum industry in Barbados. h e told Barbados Today “This bond looks to the future, meeting the rising global demand for premium aged rum, as the category grows at a remarkable rate. o ur investments here, including the development of this state-of-the-art bond, featuring a special underground cellar like no other in Barbados, and our ongoing commitment to sustainable rum production, are all part of a long-term strategy to ensure that m ount g ay leads at the forefront of this movement.” s peaking at the launch, m inister of Business s enator l isa Cummins encouraged the island’s rum producers to keep pressing ahead in their efforts to attain a geographical indicator ( gi ) for their products. s he said: “ i believe that the time has long come and maybe even long past its accomplishment date for us to have crossed this hurdle and i ’m looking forward to the work which i know is underway with you in the industry and also with other government agencies to be able to bring it to fruition.” https://www.mountgayrum.com/
V a P oura
l ast month v apoura, a British rum company, ran a gifting campaign to combat the homeless crisis by donating winter essentials to those “sleeping rough” in l ondon. “ w e have all been so shocked by the homeless crisis that seems to be ever-growing in our capital, but more so by the lack of human interaction and thought that society has seemingly dismissed,” v apoura co-founder o lly Barkley said in a statement according to s pirits Business. “People appear to be so comfortable ignoring those in need when a simple hello, smile or a one-minute conversation could take so little out of our day, yet mean so much for theirs.”
The rum brand’s founders donated 100% of their profits from eCommerce and on-premise sales to purchasing coats and other cold-weather clothing. v apoura’s founders hand delivered these goods on d ecember 23rd and 24th. After the successful launch of m illimeters to m ountains, a charity to empower people to confront their own challenges using the great outdoors as the facilitator, e d Jackson and o lly
Barkley decided to take their lifelong love of rum and the curiosity around the provenance of it, to a new place and create their own. From scratch, with every stage of the process carried out on home soil in e ngland. n o white labelling and no blending of rum from other distilleries. o lly says “Choosing to produce v apoura on home soil was crucial to our liquid and our story as a brand. w e’re passionate about championing e nglish craft and the product of it but it also gives us clear sight on each and every stage of the production process.” e d adds “ w hen we held our first bottle, it represented more than just a bottle of rum to us. it was a tribute to resilience, friendship, and the desire to create something unique and memorable with your favorite people.” v apoura currently offers two rums, Chapter o ne and Chapter Two. Chapter o ne is a spiced rum that gets its flavor from Blood o ranges, n utmeg, Cardamom, v anilla, Pink Peppercorns and g inger. v apoura Chapter Two is a gold rum with hints of Chocolate, Caramel, r aisins, Tobacco and v anilla. https://vapourarum.com/
angostura
Angostura has released A ngos T ur A® 200Year Anniversary l imited- e dition Bitters, a unique blend of globally influenced herbs and spices, many reminiscent of those used by the brand’s founder, d r. Johann s iegert, in his 1824 apothecary, paired with A ngos T ur A aged rum. This first-ever combination results in a bitters product unlike any other on the market, promising to transform the future of cocktail and mocktail creation much like the original A ngos T ur A® aromatic bitters pioneered the bitters’ category 200 years ago. “The special release of A ngos T ur A 200-Year Anniversary l imited- e dition Bitters is both a celebration of where we’ve come from and where we are headed,” said Katie h errmann, brand director, m izkan America, i nc., the exclusive distributor for A ngos T ur A® bitters for n orth America. “This release is more than a nod to our rich history; it’s about ushering in the next 200 years of inspiring bartenders, at-home mixologists and curious cocktails everywhere with a unique and differentiated flavor that will fuel their creativity for years to come.” www.angosturabitters.com.
tortuga rum
Tortuga r um Company l imited marked its 40th anniversary last month during a Cayman i slands Chamber of Commerce Business After h ours event. Chamber President Joanne l awson said “This 40th anniversary represents not just a milestone for Tortuga r um Company but a celebration of Caymanian ingenuity and entrepreneurial excellence. Through every rum cake and every bottle of rum, Tortuga has carried the spirit of the Cayman i slands to the world. You have made our islands proud and inspired generations of entrepreneurs.” Founded in 1984 by Captain r obert h amaty, Tortuga r um Company began as a small
family venture with a vision to introduce Cayman’s unique flavors to the world. Captain h amaty’s entrepreneurial journey, driven by passion and perseverance, set the foundation for what would become a household name. w ith his wife Carlene’s unwavering support, the company developed its signature product, the world-famous Tortuga r um Cake, which remains a favorite among locals and tourists alike. e ugene n olan, C eo of Tortuga r um Company, said: The forty years of success that we celebrate tonight has only been possible because of the dedication of our ‘Team Tortuga’, we say, members of our family. i t’s their hard work, passion and commitment, both in the workplace and on the broader community, that have made Tortuga the company that it is today. There is so much to look forward to in the future of Tortuga r um Company, including partnerships and growth that will benefit the entire community.” r ecently, the company built a new distillery at its store in s even m ile s hops. v isitors get a literal window into the production process. The distillery, behind a large glass window, can be seen from the shop and tourists can learn how rum is made and bottle their own to take home. https://tortugarumcakes.com/
cornish geothermal D istillery
Cornish g eothermal d istillery Company l td has submitted the latest application of a project which would be known as Celsius, a pilot geothermal rum distillery with visitor facilities. i t aims to make use of surplus geothermal energy at the e den g eothermal site and has the full support and cooperation of e den g eothermal and the e den Project. The proposed development will form part of the u K’s first deep geothermal heat cascade energy system. This energy system already serves the e den Project itself via a heat main running directly from e den g eothermal to the e den Project, and will in turn also serve the ˚Celsius project via a new spur connection off the existing heat main. The e den Project energy demand varies daily and seasonally, whereas the geothermal energy supply is a constant; the ˚Celsius project would help to ‘balance out’ the use of the geothermal energy supply by drawing on it more when demand from the e den Project is lower. The primary purposes of the proposed development are rum distilling/ maturation and employment, but there would be an element of tourism in that the facility would be open to visiting members of the public for recreational and educational purposes. Attractions would include: Public tours (strictly managed via an online booking system); r um tastings and masterclasses, two per day and g ift shop stocking bottles of rum, casks of rum, and related branded goods like gift boxes, glasses, coasters, books, etc. The project’s goal is to be off-grid, carbon neutral, self-sustaining and zero waste, through its connection to the nearby geothermal energy supply and use of rainwater harvesting, C o 2 capture and passive solar energy technologies. https://www.celsiusproject.com/
The Sweet Business of Sugar
World Market
r egardless of distillation equipment, fermentation method, aging or blending techniques, all rum producers have one thing in common: sugarcane
w ithout sugarcane we would not have sugar mills, countless farmers would not have a profitable crop and we would not have rum!
Presents
The Sugar Mill: Origins and Evolution
i ntroduction
s ugarcane ( Saccharum officinarum ) is a perennial grass of the family Poaceae i t is primarily cultivated for its juice, from which alcohol (through fermentation and distillation) and sugar (through dehidration and refining) can be obtained. m ost of the world’s sugarcane is grown in subtropical and tropical areas.
i t is commonly accepted today that sugarcane originated in Papua, n ew g uinea, where it was initially domesticated. The plant was then taken to other lands by traders, where its sweet virtues quickly made it a sought-after commodity.
i t is also commonly accepted that around 10,000 years ago, the original inhabitants of Papua did not have tools to process the cane, meaning that they likely chewed it raw to extract the juice, which was consumed as-is ( n oël d eerr, The History of Sugar: Volume One ).
n ot much written history exists that documents the early extraction of the juice for the purpose of dehydration and formation of sugar crystals until the publication of De Materia Medica , a pharmacopoeia of medicinal plants and the medicines that can be obtained from them, which was written between the years 50 and 70 of the current era by Pedanius d ioscorides, a g reek physician in the r oman army. This is the oldest record documenting the existence of crystalized sugar, which was used at the time to “ treat indigestion and stomach ailments .”
h ow did people manage to extract the dissolved sugar from the juice? The answers to this question are at the core of this series. s o join us, as we explore this fascinating topic!
Part 1: t he m ortar and Pestle m ill
Mortar and Pestles are described in the oldest preserved piece of medical literature discovered, the Ebers Papyrus from Ancient e gypt - dating back to 1,550BC. i t is estimated that mortar and pestles had already been used for around 6,000 years before this papyrus was written, mostly for the grinding of spices and, thanks to their efficiency and practicality, their design has largely remained unchanged over the last 10,000 years.
Chemists and pharmacists have traditionally used small porcelain sets for trituration (the process of grinding chemical compounds). i n parts of the m iddle e ast, meat is pounded into kibbeh in mortars two or three feet wide. The Chalon and m utsun people in California’s s alinas v alley ground up acorns and grains by carving shallow depressions into bedrock. i n Papua n ew g uinea, pestles are often carved into elaborate birds’ heads; the Taino, an indigenous tribe in the Caribbean, used small figures endowed with enormous phalli. s till, the essential elements of design remain the same: a bowl and a club, used to crush and grind.
i t should be no surprise then, to know that one of the earliest approaches to extracting the juice from the sugarcane, was based on the mortar
and pestle. i t is known, you guessed it, as the m ortar and Pestle m ill .
The following is a description from the book Journey from Madras through the countries of Mysore, Canara, and Malabar , written by Francis Buchanan, m d . in 1807. The description accompanies the illustration shown below.
The sugar mill consists of a mortar, beam, lever, pestle, and regulator. The mortar (aa) is a tree, about ten feet in length, and fourteen inches in diameter. It is sunk perpendicularly into the earth, leaving one end two feet above the surface. The hollow (bb) is conical, truncated downards, and then becomes cylindrical (c), with a hemispherical projection (d) in its bottom, in order to allow the juice to run freely to the small opening (e), that conveys it to a spout (f),
from which it falls into an earthen pot. Round the upper mouth of the cone is a circular cavity (gg), which collects any of the juice that may run over the upper ends of the pieces of canel and from thence a canal (hh) conveys this juice down the outside of the mortar to the spout (f).
The beam (iii) is about sixteen feet in length, and six inches in thickness, and is cut from a large tree that is divided by a fork into two arms. In the fork an excavation is made from the mortar, round which the beam turns horizontally. The surface of this excavation is secured by a semicircle of strong wood. The end towards the forks is quite open, for changing the beam without trouble. On the undivided end of the beam sits the bullock-driver (k), whose cattle are yoked by a rope (l), which comes from the end of the beaml and they are prevented from dragging out of the circle by another rope (m), which passes from the yoke to the forked end of the beam. On the arms a basket (n) is placed to hold the cuttings of cane; and between this and the mortar sits the man (o) who feeds the mill. Just as the pestle comes round, he places the pieces of cane sloping down the cavity of the mortarl and, after the pestle has passed, he removes those which have been squeezed.
As you can see, this is a very detailed description of technology used over 200 years ago for the extraction of sugarcane juice.
s ugar m ill s potlight
Abandoned sugar mill located on the island of Kauai, h awaii. i t was built in 1954 and was operated by the g rove Farm Company until 1996.
Join us again next month, as we continue to explore this fascinating topic! g ot r um? January 2025 - 55
cigar & rum P airing
by Philip i li Barake
my name is Philip i li Barake, s ommelier by trade. As a result of working with selected restaurants and wine producers in Chile, i started developing a passion for distilled spirits and cigars. As part of my most recent job, i had the opportunity to visit many Central American countries, as well as, rum distilleries and tobacco growers.
But my passion for spirits and cigars did not end there; in 2010 i had the honor of representing Chile at the i nternational Cigar s ommelier Competition, where i won first place, becoming the first s outh American to ever achieve that feat.
n ow i face the challenge of impressing the readers of “ g ot r um?” with what is perhaps the toughest task for a s ommelier: discussing pairings while being well aware that there are as many individual preferences as there are rums and cigars in the world.
i believe a pairing is an experience that should not be limited to only two products;
it is something that can be incorporated into our lives. i hope to help our readers discover and appreciate the pleasure of trying new things (or experiencing known things in new ways).
Philip # gr CigarPairing
Birth of my s on
For the first time since i started writing these articles, i did not plan to share a pairing with you. i nstead, i wanted to share the news about something that changed my life. To have a child is something that all parents understand from day one, it is like falling in love again. Yes, i had known for some time that i would be a father, of my first child, i was surprised by the news, which arrived during a very chaotic year that i wanted to leave behind. As the months went by, i became increasingly anxious but also concerned, hoping for a good pregnancy and a healthy baby.
And so it was that on the 9th of d ecember, after a 38th week checkup, the doctor announced that it would be best for the birth to happen that same day. w e were surprised, as were our closest friends and relatives, and four hours after the doctor’s instructions, Joaquín was born, awake and surprised about everything around him, while i was still processing the day’s events. i t is a unique and lifealtering experience, parents can easily get lost admiring the baby’s gestures and smiles, forgetting all that happened before and what is to come after.
s o why did i change the topic of the article? i n addition to sharing how fabulous these past weeks have been for me, i also wanted to talk about a tradition that is slowly disappearing, a tradition related to the birth of a baby boy: yes, i ’m talking about handing out cigars when the gender of the baby is revealed after birth.
This was a very common practice during hundreds of years among
Native Americans. It was part of a celebration of newborn boys that included the sharing of gifts and special contemporary foods, which later came to include cigars.
The tradition remained strong for a long time. Towards the end of the 19th Century and the beginning of the 20th Century, it was very common for child labor to be a very lengthy process, one that usually took place in people’s own houses, with the assistance of midwives or other specialized personnel. The fathers would patiently wait until the birth of the child and would then celebrate with the guests, with cigars playing an important role in the celebration, all this while the mother was still in recovery or, in the worse cases, in eminent danger.
There are many historical documents that describe these scenarios, some in positive, others in negative ways, but the fact is that cigars were always a part of the celebration.
One of the reasons associated with the fading of the tradition, is that today it is very
uncommon for pregnant women to give birth at home, for obvious health and safety reasons. As hospitals became the preferred destinations for childbirths, the tendency to have smoking celebration nearby started to disappear.
Nowadays, finding out the gender of a baby has become a sensationalistic event, with couples coming up with exuberant setups to surprise each other with displays of pink for girls or of blue for boys. I understand the intent, but this means that cigars have lost their place in these celebrations.
In recent years, some cigar brands, as well as, devoted smokers, have been eager to keep the tradition alive, by sharing cigars with personalized rings to celebrate the birth. These cigars can then be smoked at home or wherever the party happens to take place. If the cigar happens to be a special one, then there is the temptation to keep it, rather than to smoke it. I would recommend a special cigar for safekeeping and then to
open a separate cigar box for guests to smoke right away. d oing this would help maintain alive a tradition that has lasted hundreds of years. And why limit it to only the birth of boys, why not also have a special cigar to celebrate the birth of a little princess?
i n my case, we opted not to do a gender reveal, instead we asked to be told as soon as the sonogram results were conclusive, this way we could plan the name for the baby who would change our lives. Also, i didn’t have a large number of cigar smokers to justify a custom cigar, instead i brought out a bunch of cigars for the guests during one of the celebrations we had for Joaquín. i am sure that, after the publication of this article, more friends will come forward and we’ll share cigars then too.
Cheers!
Philip i li Barake # gr CigarPairing
