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Polleney • 元宝黄豆凤梨酥
食尚品味 Gourmet Living
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TIMELESS C
Flavours
hicken curry, sambal belachan, ayam buah keluak, ngoh hiang, braised pork belly and laksa – all these good old favourites just do not taste the same unless grandma makes them. To keep traditions alive, Rosaline Soon, a grandmother of two, preserved the experiences and recipes in her latest edition of Grandmothers’ Recipes with the help her niece, Julia Tan. The duo recorded the recipes amassed from years of experimenting and perfecting recipes learnt from their nyonya relatives in Singapore and Penang. Soon reminisces how her children used to love visiting Kedah every Chinese New Year because of her mother-in-law’s cooking. Her daughter loves the nyonya laksa so much that she now makes it for her children. While Soon herself admits she always has a soft spot for her buah keluaks. The flair for cooking just seems to run in the family. Even the patriarch, Soon’s husband Fred, cooks “the special steak”, a well-loved family recipe, for his grandson whenever he visits.
Rosaline Soon, author of Grandmothers’ Recipes (a compilation of recipes lost in time), speaks to Katherine Oh on her labour of love
Interestingly, Soon only learnt how to cook at 50 years old after retiring from the corporate world in 1990. Being the youngest of 14 children, she did not have to lift a finger in the kitchen but instead was encouraged to focus on her academia. Her love for food led her to open Ming’s Cafe and Pub in Upper Thomson Road just over 20 years ago which served Peranakan and Penang cuisine. After giving up the business, she nowadays gives cooking lessons from her own kitchen, and tailors classes to help train domestic helpers on cooking local and Peranakan favourites. The third edition of Grandmothers’ Recipes – Sweet & Savoury, launched in 2013 at Bollywood Veggies in the quaint Kranji countryside, was conceived after countless requests from her students who attend her cooking class. The recipes were initially planned to be featured in her second book but there were just too many to consolidate. This edition features a compilation of over 60 recipes with distinctive themes that include nyonya kuehs and desserts such as onde onde, kueh dadar and rempah udang; festive recipes such as the traditional baked kueh lapis, traditional fruit cake, kueh bangkit, Teochew spiral yam mooncake and spicy dried prawn zongzi (dumplings); and day-to-day good old favourites that range from Western bread, butter pudding and quiche Lorraine to Asian delights such as steamed carrot cake, yam rice, chicken epok epok and many more. She also highlights her mother’s nyonya dumplings which bring her back to her kampong days, and the Tapei, a lost recipe of fermented glutinous rice with ragi yeast, as two nostalgic flavours which are documented in this edition of Grandmothers’ Recipes. On the following pages, Soon shares three recipes from her new book.
食尚品味 GL 70
Ingredients Glutinous Rice 450g glutinous rice, pre-soaked for 3 hours 380g coconut milk (from 1/2 coconut) 1 tsp salt some blue colouring (from pea flower) banana leaf Dried Prawn Filling 150g dried prawns 60g garlic 120g shallots 100g fresh chilli 25g dried chilli 15g lemon grass 6 tbsp oil for frying 3 tbsp dried fried coconut salt and sugar to taste Method Glutinous Rice 1 Steam glutinous rice for 25 minutes. Add in coconut milk and salt. Steam for another 20 minutes till cooked. 2 Loosen cooked rice and add in some blue colouring. Leave to cool for later use. Dried Prawn Filling 1 Soak dried prawns in some water. Drain and pound. 2 Dry fry pounded dried prawns. 3 Blend garlic, shallots, fresh chilli, dried chilli and lemon grass together. 4 Heat oil and fry blended ingredients till fragrant. Add in dry fried pounded prawns and fried coconut. 5 Add in salt and sugar to taste. To Serve 1 Weigh out 50g of rice and wrap over fillings. Place the ready-wrapped glutinous rice on the banana leaf and roll into a cylindrical shape. Seal both ends and secure with toothpick. 2 Pan-fry in a non-stick pan.
Ingredients 300g pork belly, cut into small pieces 300g prawn meat, flattened and chopped finely 1/2 egg 25g garlic, finely chopped 1 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 tbsp fried pounded sole fish 1/2 tsp 5-spice powder dash of pepper 1 tbsp shredded carrots 1 tbsp chopped spring onions 180g water chestnuts, washed, peeled, flattened with back of knife and chopped 2 tbsp tapioca flour 4 tbsp plain flour bean curd sheet or pork net Coating for Deep-Frying some egg white some biscuit crumbs Method 1 Mix pork belly and prawns with K beater till combined and mixture is sticky (5 to 7 minutes). 2 Add in egg, garlic, salt, pounded sole fish, 5-spice powder, pepper and continue to mix till sticky. 3 Add in shredded carrots, spring onions, water chestnuts, tapioca flour and plain flour. 4 Cut bean curd sheet into smaller pieces (about 6-inch square) and clean with a wet cloth. 5 Take a piece, put in some mixture and roll. 6 Steam for 10 minutes. Cool and cut to smaller pieces. Dip in egg white and roll over biscuit crumbs. 7 Deep-fry in hot oil. 8 Serve with sweet sauce.