WINE • CUISINE • LIFESTYLE
a Red Conclusion
析
红
Football & Wine –
A New Mix! 全新组合
Wine Tourism Is Here To Stay 酒之旅
Asian Fashion’s
Rising Talents 亚洲光芒时尚新秀 Chef Huang Ching Biao & Chef Julien Schillaci Share Their Experiences
东西名厨美食谈
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CONTENTS 目录
06 WINE酒 06 Wine Buzz酒情报
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10 Wine Conversation 酒之语 Are you a wine snob?
是附庸风雅还是真的懂酒
12 Quirky Finds酒之趣
• • • •
Low-sugar wines Romantic wines from Piedmont
低脂葡萄酒 浪漫世界
18 Wine Knowledge酒知识 The third and final feature on reds
析红
18
38 28 Matchmake搭配艺术 Pairing with Thai and modern Australian cuisines
完美搭配
34 Wine Living酒时尚 Football and wine – A new mix! 足球与葡萄酒 - 最新搭配！ 38 Wine Journey酒之旅 Wine tours are here to stay 葡萄酒之旅 42 Sweet Delights酒之甜 Wine with chocolates? 巧克力之情
46 Coming to Terms术语
Describing wines 酒汇表
114 Spirited Reads书介 2 WINELIVING
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6items Wine & Dine.ai
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3/18/2013
4:58:05 PM
No.1 Harbourfront Walk, #01-98/99 Vivocity, Singapore 098585 Tel: 6376 8185 Email: info@serenity.com.sg Web: www.serenity.com.sg
391 Orchard Road #05-32 Ngee Ann City Takashimaya Singapore 238872 Tel: 6235 9989
Jl. By pass Ngurah Rai no 27A, Sanur 80228, Bali, Indonesia Tel: +62 361 284381 Email: info@serenityindonesia.co.id Web: www.serenityindonesia.co.id
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CUISINE美肴 48 Chef’s Picks厨师精选
Chef Huang Ching Biao displays his flair 谭厨传人黄清标 - 展现惊艳顶级料理 • Shark’s fin and pine mushrooms in golden broth 金汤松茸鲍翅 • Bamboo leaf pork 稻草竹香肉
56 Gourmet Enclaves 佳肴美酒
Gourmet updates from Singapore and Hong Kong 新加坡与香港的美食介绍
66 Asian Fiesta亚洲美食
Jumbo CEO talks about Singapore’s food culture “珍宝”的饮食文化
70 Western Fiesta西方美食 Chef Julien Schillaci shares his experience Chef Julien Schillaci对食物的热忱 72 Folio开本 Singaporeans’ love for food is legendary 品味和丰富文化
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LIFESTYLE时尚品味 74 In Person人物专访
Raphael Saw, COO of Far East Hospitality 苏琼华
78 Beauty & Spa美容 A Bali getaway 岛屿假期
82 Look Book品味生活 Dine in oriental chic 东方之美
84 Beauty美之语 • Top beauty looks on the runway 伸展台上最潮妆容 • Blemish-free skin 美丽圣品 • Brilliant hair colours “发”出色彩迷人
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Style时装时尚 Asia’s rising talents 亚洲新崛起设计师
100 Gourmet Travel美食旅游 Flavours of Malacca 马六甲娘惹风味
104 Travelling Lenses旅游触角 At Everest base camp 在珠穆朗玛峰大本营
108 Art美术 In darkness, one fi nds the light 黑暗中，找到光亮
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Publisher Ong Tze Kian Consultants Derrick Lee (IBA President) Hai Poh Cheong Ernie Ong Jessica L Huang Ching Biao Editors L Kerhaw Jean Cheung Feature Writers Katherine Oh Jesslyn Poh Senior Designer Libby Goh Designer Zhang Wei Business Development Manager YKF, Eric Contributors Kerry Yip Jill Gwee Photography Glamour Wave Photography Circulation Manager Joyce Thian International Enquiries: Hong Kong Unit H1 8/F, Effi ciency House 35 Tai Yau Street San Po Kong, Kowloon Tel: (852) 2877 7748 • Fax: (852) 2877 7749 Canada 5654 McAdam Road, Mississauga Ontario, Canada L4Z 1T2 Tel: (1) 905 568 0818 Published by InfoMedia Publishing Pte Ltd Reg. No. 200505398D Blk 163 Lor 1 Toa Payoh, #01-1004, Singapore 310163 Tel: (65) 6352 0109 • Fax: (65) 6352 0117 Distributed by: MediaCorp Publishing Pte Ltd Tel: (65) 6483 7118 • Fax: (65) 6483 7291 ISBN: 888 500 411 003 8 MCI (P) 176/02/2014
FEATURE 酒时尚
Mix!
Football and Wine:
A NEW WINE
足球与葡萄酒：最新搭配
If you think football is only associated with beer, you are certainly missing out on some exquisite enjoyment in life. Kerry Yip relishes on football and wine as a new wine mix 以为足球只能与啤酒搭 配？这么想可就错过 了不少生活乐趣与享 受。Kerry Yip 发现， 足球与葡萄酒是最新的
Illustration by Zhang Wei
理想搭配
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S
ee well-heeled and meticulously manicured ladies cheering and yelling “referee kayu” in pubs and bars? That is the magic of football and beer. Football and beer bring together people, even strangers, from all walks of life and create a unique warm camaraderie that can only be found in the resounding yell of “goal!” in pubs and bars. There is a multitude of ways to luxuriate one’s way through football, with a pint of beer being the more well recognised, and yet there are rising numbers of football fans hatching from their safe and warm cocoons and taking to their wine bottle instead. Robert Whitley, a monthly contributor to the Reuters “Vine Talk” column and director of international wine competitions such as Critics Challenge, Sommelier Challenge, Winemaker Challenge and San Diego International, is one who prefers to spend weekends glued to the TV watching his favourite football league team, not chugging a beer, but a glass of vino (see Wine Talk by Robert Whitley at www.creators.com). Whitley recommends cool, crisp white wines such as Pinot Grigio, Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling when the football season kicks off in the
有没有看到穿着高跟鞋和涂上指甲油的女士们在酒吧里欢 呼和大喊“裁判不公平”？这就是足球与啤酒的魅力。足 球与啤酒能够让人们聚在一起，即使是陌生人，或来自各 行各业的人，都能够在酒吧里欢呼“进球！”而培养起温 馨的同伴精神。 要奢华地享受足球有很多方法，搭配啤酒是 最欢迎 的，不过，也有越来越多足球迷走出自己温暖的沙发， 拿起了葡萄酒瓶。路透社“Vine Talk”专栏作者Robert Whitley，也是多个国际葡萄酒比赛如评论者挑战、侍酒 师挑战、酿酒师挑战、圣地亚哥国际等的负责人，就喜欢 在周末观看电视上的足球赛，陪伴身边的不是啤酒，而是 葡萄酒。 Whitley推荐清凉清脆的白葡萄酒如灰皮诺、阿尔巴 利诺(Albarino)、白苏维浓与雷司令，配合仲夏开始的足 球季。对他来说，这些酒“最适合搭配小点，如酸橘汁 腌鱼(ceviche)、辣鳄梨酱(Guacamole)、意式烤面包 (bruschetta)以及土司与乳酪及干番茄等。” 随着赛季的进展，天气也更加凉快，Whitley推荐比较 浓郁的葡萄酒，如霞多丽或维欧尼，以及“辛香红酒，能 够承担炖肉与烧烤架上的烟熏味。” 迎合这类新兴族群的地点，在世界各地的城市里纷纷窜 起，为葡萄酒爱好者提供一个机会，参与足球热潮的同时 又能够享受最爱的赤霞诛。 WINELIVING 35
FEATURE middle of summer. To him, these wines are “wonderful mates for snacks such as ceviche, spicy guacamole, bruschetta and toasts with tapenade and/or goat cheese and sun-dried tomato”. And when the season progresses and the temperature cools, Whitley suggests more robust wines like heavier whites, such as Chardonnay or Viognier, and “spicy reds that can stand up to stews and char aromas off the grill”. New haunts for this niche class are now prominently scattered around cities across the world, giving wine lovers a chance to partake in the effusive ambience of the football frenzy and indulging in their favourite Cabernet Sauvignon. A love for wine and football has made travelling around for both the decadent reds and whites, alongside the adrenalin arousing game of football, a very popular activity. Sprouting around the world is an incandescent number of bars and pubs which have taken on the role of aiding this unique class of indulgence with an artfully crafted environment of fun and relaxation. “Choosing wine over beer when watching a game of football will be a purely personal choice,” says Sherman Wong, operations director of Cafe Deco Group, Hong Kong. “Their choice might be due to the taste of the wine, or the less gaseous and bubbly nature of wine in comparison to beer.” Wong also attributes this to the rise in female football fans. “There are now more female football fans in contrast to the near past. Females fans tend to prefer wine over beer. And fans prefer to drink a specific country’s wine if they are supporting the country in that match.” Not all wines are flying off the racks, with certain wines taking on a certain appeal as compared to the usual bottled reds of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Cafe Deco believes that due to the nature of Riesling and sparkling wines being lighter and easier on one’s palate, white and sweet wines are hitting the popularity charts with the ladies and gradually for the men. Wong adds, “To get our customers into the mood before the game, we offer different happy hour prices for drinks.” Not only the fans, but the footballers, coaches and league team managers themselves are also making waves in the field of wine. Dick Vermeil, retired National Football League coach, has been making his own wine, while Carmen Policy, former president of the San Francisco 49ers, had reportedly 10 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon planted in his Napa property in 2003. And Drew Bledsoe, former New England Patriots and Buffalo Bills star quarterback, joined hands with Leonetti Cellars’ Chris Figgins, to make Doubleback Cabernet in Washington and the list goes on … Sports bars and pubs are likewise quick in capitalising on the wine bug. At Stormies, Hong Kong, customers enjoy a good 30% off selected beers, wines 36 WINELIVING
人们对葡萄酒与足球的喜爱，使到以红酒与白酒搭配球 赛日趋受欢迎。世界各地有越来越多的酒吧与酒廊都开始 扮演这方面的角色，营造轻松有趣的环境，促成了这个独 特的族群。 香港Cafe Deco营运总监Sherman Wong说：“观赏 足球赛时，选择葡萄酒而不是啤酒，纯粹是个人的选择。 他们的选择可能是品味葡萄酒的味道，也可能是因为葡萄 酒比较没有那么多气泡。” Sherman也认为，这个现象的出现是女性足球迷造成 的。“比起过去，现在有更多女性足球迷。女性球迷一般 会喜欢葡萄酒更甚于啤酒。而且，球迷在支持某个国家的 球队时，会喜欢饮用那个国家的葡萄酒。” 不是所有的葡萄酒都因此而大为畅销，比起一般的红 酒，特定的酒类有特定的吸引力。Cafe Deco相信，由于 雷司令与气泡酒更轻淡，更容易饮用，白葡萄酒与甜葡萄 酒更受欢迎，尤其是女性顾客。Sherman补充：“为顾客 培养赛前情绪，我们也提供欢乐时光的特别售价。” 不只是球迷，足球员本身，以及教练、球队经理等等， 也赶上饮用葡萄酒的热潮。退休足球教练Dick Vermeil如 今自己酿酒，而旧金山49ers的前主席Carmen Policy， 于2003年在他的纳帕庄园里种植了10亩的赤霞诛。New England Patriots 与 Buffalo Bills的前球员Drew Bledsoe， 也与Leonetti Cellars的Chris Figgins，联手在华盛顿酿制 Doubleback Cabernet，类似的例子还有很多很多…… 体育酒吧与酒廊也很快从葡萄酒热潮中获利。香港的 Stormies，顾客在星期六至星期四傍晚5点至晚上9点的 欢乐时光，点用指定啤酒、葡萄酒和鸡尾酒，可享有30% 折扣。香港湾仔的Amici，葡萄酒爱好者可享有多样化的
FEATURE
and cocktails during happy hours from 5pm to 9pm every Saturday through Thursday. At Amici in Wan Chai, Hong Kong, vino lovers are spoilt for choice with its wide varietals of reds, whites and sparklings. The outlet even has a Vino Day where a selection of wine (glass and bottled) goes at happy hour prices all night long. Thwarting the trend of vast spaced sports bars is Chill Out Bar, a sports-themed bar located on a rather hidden area on Stauton Street, Hong Kong where its larger-than-life Korean fried chicken ads throw attention to the bar’s entrance. Happy hour drives a mean bargain with bottled wines and beers going at one for one, a big favourite with the Korean ladies! In Singapore, Harry’s Bar at Chijmes is one of the many premium bars that has an amazing rack of beers, wines and spirits to accompany live sports viewing. The wide space of the bar set in a neoclassical style building in the Chijmes courtyard gives patrons an authentic Western ambience whilst enjoying their football matches on several huge projected screens. Boomarang in Robertson Quay is an all-rounder that is a café, bistro and sports bar all rolled into one. Customers who are looking for a relaxing area to unwind with a glass of wine after sampling dinner are spot on with Boomarang. Happy hours are friendly on the pockets with wine by the glass going for a very affordable price. n
选择，包括红酒、白酒、气泡酒等，而店里还设有葡萄 酒日，当天指定葡萄酒(一杯或整瓶)都以欢乐时光的特价 售卖。 赶上体育酒吧潮流的还有Chill Out Bar，位于香港 Stauton Street的体育主题酒吧。酒吧门口有个庞大的韩 国炸鸡广告。欢乐时光的葡萄酒与啤酒买一送一，很受韩 国女性的欢迎！ 在新加坡，赞美广场的Harry’s Bar有极多样化的啤酒、 葡萄酒和烈酒，搭配现场播放的体育赛事。酒吧空间宽 敞，新古典风格的赞美广场庭院里以大屏幕播放赛事，带 来浓浓的西洋气氛。 Robertson Quay的Boomarang是多合一的概念，咖 啡座、小餐馆与体育酒吧融合一体。顾客享用晚餐后，可 以小酌一杯松懈身心。欢乐时光价格优惠，葡萄酒以杯计 算，定价非常合理。 n
WINELIVING 37
COMING TO TERMS 术语
Like an abstract piece of art, we go to great lengths to verbalise the language of wine. Wine Living compiles a simple alphabetical guide on these vocabularies 有如抽象艺术品，要把葡 萄酒的语言文字化，需要 很多的努力。《酒品》按 照字母列出一些常用的描 述词汇
Hans Thoursie
Taste
Expressions 酒汇表
Astringency describes the character of a wine’s tannins, usually occuring in young red wines. The harsh puckering sensation on the palate best describes this. However, astringency softens with age. 涩感，形容葡萄酒的丹宁，一般在年轻的红葡萄酒中最 为常见。味蕾上一种粗粗刺刺的感觉。不过，涩味会随 着葡萄酒的成熟而柔化。
is usually because of a mildew-infested cork. Note that it does not mean that bits of the cork are floating in the wine. 软木塞，指带有木塞味的酒。这通常是因为木塞里的微 生物腐蚀而产生的。注意，这不是指漂浮在酒液中的木 塞碎片。
Dry wines contain little sugar at one to nine grams per litre.
Body is perceived as the density of the wine on the palate such as light, medium or full.
干，指不甜的酒，糖成份为每公升9克以下。
酒体，酒液在味蕾上的密度，如轻盈、中等或厚重。
Elegant describes wines that has finesse. It is pleasent to drink with a balance of delicate expression and not a fruit bomb (excessively fruity).
Corked means that the wine has a musty off-taste comparable to the smell of wet cardboard. This
46 WINELIVING
COMING TO TERMS
高贵，形容灵巧精致的葡萄酒，品尝时有美好细致的感 觉，而不是太浓的果味。
Feminine explains wines that are delicate with low tannins. 女性化 ，形容精致而丹宁含量低的酒。
Green wines are overly acidic due to its young age, made from unripe fruit or wines with vegetal notes. 青涩，因为不够成熟而含有过多酒酸的酒，有如未熟的水 果或蔬菜的味道。
Hollow refers to shallow wines that are diluted, low quality and lack fruit. 空洞，指缺乏深度的葡萄酒，稀释、低质、缺乏果味。
Juicy wines have abundant fruity notes and a voluptuous weight. 果味，带有丰富果味而浓厚馥郁的酒。
Length refers to the lingering flavour of the wine after swallowing. 长度，指葡萄酒咽下以后，萦绕在口腔里的余味。 Hajnalka Ardai
Masculine means that the wine is full-bodied and robust. 男性化，形容葡萄酒浓厚粗犷。
Neutral wines lack personality. 中性，缺乏个性的葡萄酒。
helps build structure in wines and also improves its ageing potential.
Oxidised wines have a flat taste spoilt by over exposure to air.
丹宁，这是一种天然防腐剂，可在葡萄的果皮、葡萄籽和 枝干里找到，带有一种涩涩的味道。丹宁有助于促成葡萄 酒的结构，并改善其熟成的潜能。
氧化，因为过度暴露于空气中而造成味道贫乏的葡萄酒。
Palate refers to the wine taster’s personal taste and the structure of a wine. 口味， 指品酒者的个人口味及葡萄酒本身的结构。
Rich is said of a powerful wine that has deep colour, and is generous and well balanced.
Unctuous means that the wine has layers of soft, concentrated and velvety fruits which give the wine a lush and intense mouthfeel. 油滑，指葡萄酒有一层层柔和、浓缩而丝滑的果味，带来 绵密浓郁的口感。
浓郁，指强有力的葡萄酒，颜色深层，味道丰富，均衡 协调。
Voluminous describes wines that taste full on the palate.
Spicy notes mean wines with smells of spices such as black pepper, cinnamon, etc.
Watery means that the wine is diluted.
分量，形容品尝时很有分量感的葡萄酒。
似水，指葡萄酒稀薄无味。
辛辣， 指葡萄酒里有辛香的味道，如黑胡椒、肉桂等。
Tannin is the natural preservative found in the skin, seeds and stems of grapes which gives that puckering sensation in the mouth. Tannin
Yeasty describes the aroma, usually of sparkling wines, derives from its prolonged ageing on yeast lees. 酵母味，形容有如发酵的气味，常见于气泡酒中，一般是 因为在酵母酒糟里陈年过度而造成的。
WINELIVING 47
WESTERN FIESTA 西方美食
Chef Julien Schillaci was flown in from Geneva for Chefs with Altitude 2013 at Equinox Restaurant. Katherine Oh chats with him about his food and his favourite experiences Chef Julien Schillaci专程由日内瓦前 来新加坡参加Equinox Restaurant的 Chefs with Altitude 2013。 Katherine Oh与他进行一次专访，了解 他最喜欢的美食经验
70 WINELIVING
Experiencing
In the mind of the 走进厨师心里
H
e is shy at first. But executive chef Julien Schillaci eventually warmed up to the interview with the assistance of his Englishspeaking F&B director. Swissôtel The Stamford has uprooted the team at Restaurant À L’étage Parc Des Eaux-Vives, Geneva, Switzerland, just to give its guests a taste of the Alps at the Equinox Restaurant during the week-long Chefs with Altitude that showcased an exciting lineup of culinary events. Schillaci’s eight-course menu features exclusive and innovative modern European creations such as the hand-dived scallop carpaccio and tartar with salted beetroot and Xérès vinaigrette; grilled sea bass, Ratte potatoes with smoked salt, vegetable casserole and rougail sauce; and roasted rack of veal, carnaroli risotto with black truffles, baby spinach and jus, to name a few. Each course is paired with wine for the ultimate sensory experience. Schillaci, who is only in his late 20s, hails from the Picardie region, northern France, where he toiled three years as an apprentice. In 2005, he moved to Geneva to join Restaurant Hôtel du Parc des EauxVives, a remarkable 18th century building that boasts a majestic view of Lake Geneva, also managed by Swissôtel Hotels and Resorts. It has been nine years since and his big break came five years ago when his mentor and head chef Olivier Samson handed the reins to him. Schillaci who has upheld the restaurant name as one of the culinary jewels in Geneva continues to credit Samson as his greatest inspiration. “Olivier Samson is an extremely driven man. I had worked with him for six years and from him I learnt discipline and vigour. Another important aspect is his willingness to share his knowledge. That is extremely important in culinary – to be generous with experiences,” he ascertains. Schillaci wants to bring diners to experience “the pleasure of partager”, which means share in French. The passionate chef defines his cuisine as working on the five senses, authentic and not elaborative. With his refined skills, the intelligent combination of flavours will tell a story through the ingredients’ freshness, provenance and seasonality. “As Singapore is a melting pot of cultures, I hope the people who come could rediscover the flavours of their childhood. For those who have yet to visit Europe, I hope the cuisine can bring across a good experience and memories for them,” he adds. He shares on how he misses the aromas and flavours of his grandma’s kitchen and her beef bourguignon. This is the kind of feeling he hopes to leave his diners with. n
Chef
His Seven Favourite Experiences • Favourite Season: Spring, which yields ingredients like asparagus, morel and perch from Lake Geneva. • Favourite Inspiring Place: Fresh food market. • Favourite Ingredient: Bacon. I always have this in my fridge for carbonara. • Favourite Asian dish: Beef noodles from Kopitiam • Favourite Lesson: Never quit. • Favourite Comfort Food: Family’s risotto. • Favourite Disgusting Memory: Durian and goat’s cheese. 他最喜欢的7种经验 • 最喜欢的季节: 春天，带来季节性食材如芦笋、羊肚菌， 以及日内瓦湖里的河鲈。 • 最有灵感的地方：新鲜菜市场 • 最喜欢的食材：培根。我的冰箱里永远都收着一些， 用来制作白汁意面 • 最喜欢的亚洲美食：Kopitiam的牛肉面 • 最喜欢的原则：永不放弃 • 最喜欢的慰籍食物: 家里的risotto焗饭 • 最喜欢的恶心回忆：榴莲与羊乳酪
起初，他很害臊。不过，执行总厨Chef Julien Schillaci 在讲英文的餐饮总监的协助下，很快就热身了。Swissotel the Stamford把瑞士日内瓦Restaurant A L’etage Parc Des Eaux-Vives的团队专程请来新加坡，就是为了让客人 有机会在为期一周的Chefs with Altitude活动上，品尝到 瑞士雪山的风味。 Schillaci的8道式菜单介绍独特而具有创意的现代欧 洲美食，如鲜扇贝与甜菜根与盐醋塔塔(Hand-Dived Scallop Carpaccio and Tartar with Salted Beetroot and Xeres Vinaigrette); 香烤炉鱼(Grilled Sea Bass, Ratte Potatoes with Smoked Salt, Vegetable Casserole and Rougail Sauce); 烤小牛肉(Roasted Rack of Veal), 黑松露焗饭(Carnaroli Risotto with Black Truffles, Baby Spinach and Jus)等等。每一道都有搭配的葡萄酒，带来 丰富的感官体验。 Schillaci只有20多岁，来自法国南部的皮卡第 (Picardie)，并在当地做了三年的学徒。2005，他到日内 瓦加入Restaurant Hôtel du Parc des Eaux-Vives，这座 18世纪古老建筑面对着日内瓦湖，也是由Swissôtel Hotels and Resorts管理。从那时到现在已过了9年，而重要的突 破是在5年前，他的导师 —— 主厨Chef Olivier Samson把 大梁交托给他。从那时起，Schillaci肩负起保持餐馆良好 声誉的任务。这家餐馆继续成为日内瓦重要的美食瑰宝， 而Samson依然是Schillaci的最大灵感来源。 他说：“Olivier Samson是一个很有动力的人。我跟着 他工作了6年，学习如何自律和如何焕发活力。另一个重点 是，他很乐意与其他人分享他的知识。不吝分享 —— 这在 烹饪界是很重要的。” Schillaci想要为食客带来“分享的乐趣”。这位热情 洋溢的师傅，把烹饪定义为五官的全情投入，真实而不铺 张。他以精细的手艺，聪明地结合不同的味道，通过食材 的新鲜程度、出处和季节性来诉说美食的精彩故事。 他补充：“新加坡是文化的大熔炉，我希望食客上门， 能够再次找到童年的味道，那些没有到过欧洲的食客，我 希望菜肴能带来美好的体验，留下美好的回忆。” 他也分享了自己如何想念祖母厨房里的香味，以及祖母 的牛肉酱，而这也是他想要留给食客的感觉。 n
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BEAUTY & SPA 美容
岛 屿
Island Getaway 假 期
Coveting some time away from the madding crowd, Katherine Oh visits The Kunja for some space, quiet moments and rejuvenation
远离尘嚣，烦恼抛诸脑 后。Katherine Oh走访了 The Kunja，松懈身心，寻 找属于自己的宁静空间。
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he plane had taken off and we were only two and a half hours away from the sun, beach and sand. Completely relieved, work was but a distant memory. And yes, with all mobiles, laptops and blackberries turned off. The Kunja is eight minutes’ drive from Bali’s trendy Seminyak district. The luxurious villa is also a popular honeymoon and wedding destination. Hold your wedding in style at its private glass chapel, Santi Chapel. The remarkable experience is complete with beautiful cascading water terraces that reflect the island’s Balinese rice fields. The villa management also helps design and tailor-make your special day. On arrival, we were immediately ferried to our villa in a buggy that was parked outside huge, heavyset wooden gates flanked by tall concrete walls with climbing vines. The friendly attendant unlocked them and invited us to push open the gates to enter the private paradise. Our eyes were immediately drawn to the wide turquoise pool complete with sun decks shaded by tropical palm trees and flora which were in full view from the doorstep. Once inside, the expanse of space was incredible. The outdoor living room that led to the pool was furnished with comfortable sofas, ceiling fans, books, a breakfast table, a corner bar top and a fully equipped open kitchen. The villas’ attendants and cooks came in to prepare a spread for breakfast and some snacks for teatime. They went about doing their chores so quietly that before you knew it, they had already done their routine work and disappeared!
飞机起飞，短短两个半小时就来到了阳光、沙滩和大海的 巴厘岛。完全松懈身心，工作被抛到九霄云外。是的，手 机、电脑、黑莓都关闭。 Kunja距离峇厘岛时尚的水明漾(Seminyak)区只需8分 钟。奢华别墅也是热门的蜜月与结婚目的地。你可以选择 在私人玻璃教堂Santi Chapel里举行婚礼，面对着漂亮的 流水台，模拟岛上梯田式的田地，带来难忘的经验。度假 村管理人员也能为你的特别日子设计和提供客制化服务。 抵步以后，我们马上被小机动车载到自己的别墅。粗厚 的木制大门上都是藤蔓，工作人员轻轻打开，敞开大门欢 迎我们进入私人的天堂。眼睛马上被宽阔的宝蓝色泳池所 吸引，门口已看到私人阳台，静卧热带棕榈树荫下。 入内一看，空间极为宽敞。户外客厅里有舒适的沙发、 吊扇、书刊、早餐桌、小吧台，以及设备齐全的开放式厨 房。别墅的工作人员与厨师进来为我们准备早餐和下午 茶。他们的动作都很宁静，不经意间，已经完成了例常工 作，不见人影！体贴的工作人员也让别墅里弥漫着香茅油 的香气，预防蚊子。
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BEAUTY & SPA
The thoughtful staff had also scented the villa with lemongrass oil to keep the mozzies away. The room was luxurious with its four-poster king-sized bed accentuated by a romantic canopy of fine white gossamer while the bathroom was just as extravagant. The connecting outdoor bathroom came with the usual amenities of dual wash basins, wide pebbled shower area and bathtub in full view of the pool, and it was easily three-fifths the size of the bedroom. The room was also fitted with Wi-Fi, so while the lure to access the office e-mail was great, there were plenty in store that kept the temptation away. Guests could always book the free limousine service to escort them to the famous golden beaches, go shopping at Seminyak, swim in their own private pool or request for an outdoor spa. Appointments with the spa therapist from Studio 5 - Salon Cure Spa would best be done upon checking in as the spa’s schedule seems to be always fully packed. One of the signature treatments was the two-hour Balinese massage that came with a fresh and stimulating lemon and orange oil and body scrub. But if you like something harmonising and balancing, the lavender treatment is for you. The massage could be done all in the privacy of your living room; the professionally trained therapist 80 WINELIVING
房间里装潢奢华，四根柱子的大型卧床上挂着精细的薄 纱，浴室也同样铺张，连接的户外浴室里有完整设备，包 括两个洗脸盆、宽敞的鹅卵石淋浴处、可观赏到泳池的浴 缸，相等于卧室的五分之三。 房间里装有wi-fi无线上网，诱惑着我上网查阅工作电 邮，不过，更具吸引力的是住客可以预订免费轿车服务， 载送他们前往著名的沙滩或到水明漾区购物，或在自己的 私人泳池里游泳，或预订户外按摩服务。建议一抵达就马 上预订Studio 5 - Salon Cure Spa，因为护理师都很忙碌。 其中一个招牌疗程是两小时的峇厘式按摩，包括味道清新 而令人振奋的柠檬与香橙身体磨砂。不过，如果你喜欢平 衡和谐的感觉，建议选择薰衣草疗程。 按摩可在私人的客厅里进行。受过专业训练的护理师以 经验丰富的手法解除肌肉上的压力，而橙橘的清新香味可 以提神醒脑。欢愉的香味让你精神饱满，而又全身沉溺在
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will knead away the knots and dispel the lethargy from your muscles with experienced fingers while the refreshing aroma of citrus piques your senses and invigorates the mind. The pleasing aroma allows you to be energised yet lost in the comfort of the warm fruity scrub which is gently padded on the whole body in rotating movements. After a soak in the rose petal milk bath, the benefits of the scrub and the bath will be evident, bringing out the natural radiance of your skin. The Kunja offers a whole new class of indulgence. While discovering Bali in all its natural splendours, the unique spa experience makes you look and feel like a million dollars. It is certainly Bali at its finest! n
温暖的果香磨砂中。接着，来一场玫瑰花瓣奶浴，磨砂的 效果在泡澡后更加显著，带出肌肤的天然光彩。 Kunja带来全新的享受，在天然的环境中探索峇厘 岛，独特的按摩与水疗体验让你容光焕发，感觉像个百万 富翁！n WINELIVING 81
台 湾
92 WINELIVING
The spotlight is now on Asia and fashion is one area that everyone has his/her eyes on right now. Katherine Oh touches base with the new wave of Asian designers to check out what is in store 亚洲如今是众目焦点，而时尚更是大家都关注的领 域。Katherine Oh与亚洲新一代的设计师近距离接触， 了解未来的最新发展
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he year 2013 was a year of fashion for the Lion City, with a few big fashion events rocking the island, events like FIDé Fashion Week, Blueprint, Audi Fashion Week and Digital Fashion Week. Singaporeans have now scaled the ranks in fashion despite being known for their love for slippers, T-shirts and shorts! “There’s an incredible amount of talent and creativity here in Asia. There’s no reason why the next hub of fashion shouldn’t be Asia,” stated Odile Benjamin, designer from homegrown fashion veteran Raoul, who told Vogue UK in 2011 during an exclusive interview that Singapore’s fashion scene is developing rapidly especially with the burgeoning economy. And she could not be more right considering the number of fashion weeks and events in recent months. There is certainly a lot to look forward to. Asian designers are increasingly flocking to the little red dot to showcase their inspiration. Of note are three labels, namely Helen Lee from China, Ong Shunmugam from Singapore and Abcense of Taiwan.
2013年是新加坡的时尚之年，这一年我们 举行了好几个大型时尚活动，如FIDé 时尚 周、Blueprint、奥迪时尚周、电子时尚周等 等。新加坡人如今在时尚界更向前迈进了一 步，虽然我们只是个爱穿拖鞋、T恤、短裤的 热带小国！全岛的各个时尚活动，证实了我们 有在不断地进步当中。 2011年，本地时尚品牌Raoul的设计师 Odile Benjamin在接受英国Vogue杂志专访 时探讨了新加坡的时尚界，认为本地时尚在 强大经济力的推动下，发展迅速。Benjamin 说：“亚洲有很多人才与创意精神，下一个时 尚中心不可能不在亚洲。”言之有理，看看过 去几个月来举行的时尚活动，就知道未来还有 更多精彩令人拭目以待。 此外，更多亚洲设计师如今都到新加坡来 展示他们的精心杰作。参加了几个时尚周， 值得留意的品牌有来自中国的Helen Lee、来 自新加坡的Ong Shunmugam和来自台湾的 Abcense。
HELEN LEE
CHINA中国
H
elen Lee is one of the most successful contemporary Chinese designers who is synonymous with Shanghai fashion. She recently launched a new fashion line Xi Su on top of her other brands Helen Lee and insh, her first brand. Her exuberant and adventurous fashion sense drew inspiration from Shanghai’s cosmopolitan past, present and future. Following her graduation from the Raffles Design Institute and two years’ working experience in Japan, Lee returned to Shanghai and founded insh. Helen Lee, a premium brand known for its sophisticated and edgy designs, created a storm in 2009 when it was first launched. A year later in 2010, Helen Lee had its flagship store on Fumin Road in the French Concession, marking a new chapter in high-end Chinese fashion. Lee now showcases her creations at runways of fashion weeks in Shanghai, Stockholm, Vancouver, Singapore and other cities. The accolade-studded designer received numerous awards, and some of them are Belgium’s Les Etoiles de la Mode, the Elle
BEAUTY
H&M Best Independent Designer award and China’s JeansWest Fashion, to name a few. Her works have also been featured in Vogue, Elle and even America’s Next Top Model. She has also dressed some of China’s famous personalities like Sun Li (孙俪) and Xu Jing Lei (徐静蕾). Lee’s success is attributed to her adventurous design philosophy which encompasses diverse influences, an eclectic mix of East and West, old and new, and striking textures and materials. For instance, in her Summer Season 13 collection, she used the theme “WAKE”, the season that wakes up from the long sleep of winter by using colour matching, femininity and sophistication she is known for. “Wake is about the serendipitous moment when we choose to act to make our dreams come true. The clothes feature a vivid palette, coral, mint, light teal and black, and provide the foundation while yellow, chartreuse and white add bright details,” she offered. She described the girl who wears Helen Lee as “confident, independent, well educated, having international experience, good taste and love life, brave and with a never-give-up spirit.” She is now planning her schedule for Paris Fashion Week 2014. 李鸿雁(Helen Lee)是最成功的现代中国设计师之一，也是 上海时尚的代名词。除了以自己的英文名字命名的Helen Lee，她最近又推出新品牌Xi Su。而她的第一个品牌是 insh。她的风格多姿多彩，灵感来自上海大都会的过去、 现在与未来。 李鸿雁在Raffles Design Institute毕业后，在日本工作 了两年，回到上海创办品牌insh。2009年又推出高级而前 卫的高档品牌HELEN LEE，刚推出时很受瞩目。一年后的 2010年，她在法国区的富民路开设旗舰店，为中国高端时 尚翻开新的一页。 李 鸿 雁 如 今在 上 海 、 斯 德 哥 尔 摩 、 温 哥 华 、新加坡 等多个城市的时尚舞台上展示她的新作品。这位屡获殊 荣的设计师，得过的奖项包括比利时的Les Etoiles de la Mode、Elle H&M最佳独立设计师奖和中国的JeansWest Fashion等等。她的作品也曾登上Vogue、Elle，甚至是 America’ s Next Top Model。许多中国名人也曾穿过她 的衣服，如孙俪、徐静蕾。 李鸿雁的成功有赖于充满冒险精神的设计理念，以及多 元化的影响，结合东方与西方、新与旧，以及不同的质地 与布料。例如，她的13春夏季作品中，主题是“WAKE-唤 醒”，从冬眠中醒来的季节，带来搭配的色彩、女性化和 成熟的风格。 她说：“这一系列有从漫长的冬天旅行中入梦，然后 在美丽的春天醒过来的感觉。醒来以后，让美好梦境成为 现实。所用的颜色处处充满春天的气息，如珊瑚色、薄荷 绿、樱花粉、柔粉蓝和油菜花黄色，加上明亮的细节。” 她形容穿上HELEN LEE服饰的女性为“自信、独立、有 很好的教育和国际体验，品味独具，浪漫大胆，而且从不 放弃。” 她目前正计划参加2014年的巴黎时尚周。 n
SINGAPORE新加坡
ONG SHUNMUGAM
STYLE
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ng Shunmugam is a line by Priscilla Tsu-Jyen Shunmugam, a lawyer who ended her legal career to pursue her dream. Born to a Chinese mother and Indian father, there were plenty of cultural discourse at the dining table. Due to her culture-rich background, she loves to integrate her designs with traditional textiles. Her latest fall/winter collection, Whenever I Fall at Your Feet, was inspired by her observations of the people’s growing discomfort with the increasingly loss of space and memory in Singapore. “I felt it was something worth talking about – I think a lot of Singaporeans know what it is like to lose a place that has meant something to them. So it became clear from the start of the project that we are going to look at these monuments and old buildings beyond their architectural value and ask who built them, who occupied them,” she explained. “The idea is that these are more than just old buildings with heritage value, spaces that contain living memories. No building exists without human intent – every building means something to someone. This is what we are going for: the relationship between man and structure.” Besides retailing at Atelier Ong Shunmugam at Raffles Quay, she now stocks her collection in New York too. Shunmugam graduated from law school with an odd mix of achievement with discontent, which she could not put a finger on what it was. But finally, she decided to pack and head to London in 2008 as she could no longer ignore her instincts for fashion and tailoring. She spent a year in England to learn dressmaking from a retired couturier in Notthingham and attended pattern cutting courses at the London College of Fashion, taking apart and putting back together vintage dressing. And upon her turn to Singapore, she set to work on developing her brand Ong Shunmugam and launched her first collection, Orientalism, in 2010. “When I started to create my label, I did not have the capital, the connections or the experience – basic rudiments to get anywhere in the fashion industry. But instead of worrying about what I lacked, I looked at what I had from within,” she recalled. “I whittled what I wanted to achieve down to the core and focused on getting that right. Should I focus on creating a wellmade dress or should I pay more attention to selling a dress in well-made packaging? For me, the answer to this question was easy right from the start.” For Shunmugum, hard work did reap success. She won the Designer of the Year at the Singapore ELLE Awards 2012 and was nominated Designer of the Year for the President’s Design Award 2013. She was also invited to speak at various engagements at the Museum of Chinese in America in New York as well as the National Museum of Singapore on designing and dressing women in cheongsams and. In 2014, Ong Shunmugam will be off to fashion weeks in New York, London and Paris.
BEAUTY
另一方面，Ong Shunmugam是Priscilla Tsu-Jyen Shunmugam的作品。她原本是一名律师，为追求梦想放 弃了法律事业。她的母亲是华人，父亲是印度人，家里的 餐桌上每天都进行着文化冲击。丰富的文化背景，使她很 喜欢在设计中结合传统布料。最新系列Whenever I Fall at Your Feet，灵感来自新加坡人对空间和记忆不断地流失而 引起的失落。 她解释：“我觉得这是很值得探讨的课题——我认为 很多新加坡人都感觉到不断地失去一些对自己有意义的地 方。因此，这个项目从一开始就探讨一些古迹和老建筑， 不只是建筑上的价值，也了解它们是由什么人建造、哪些 人曾使用过它。” “我们的概念是，这些不只是具有历史价值的老建筑， 而是一些充满活生生的记忆的空间。没有了人的气息，就 没有建筑。每一所建筑，对某些人来说都有特别的意义。 所以我们想要探索的是这一点：人与建筑结构之间的关 系。”她的作品在莱佛士坊的Atelier Ong Shunmugam 售卖，如今也外销到纽约。 Shunmugam修读的是法律，事业成功的同时却又感 觉不满足，当时却不了解自己想要的是什么。2008年， 对时尚与裁缝的强烈兴趣，促使她辞职到伦敦去。她在英 国花了一年时间，向诺丁汉的一名退休高级时装设计师学 习裁缝、参加伦敦时尚学院的裁剪课程，并学习如何把二 手衣物拆卸再缝制回去。回到新加坡后，她着手创办了自 己的品牌Ong Shunmugam，并于2010年推出首个系列 Orientalism。 她回想当初：“刚创立自己的品牌时，我没有资金、 联络网或任何经验——这都是时尚界最需要的基本元素。 不过，与其担心自己没有什么，我选择关注自己拥有些什 么。我思考自己要达到的是什么，并专注于如何去达到。 我应该专注与裁剪衣物，还是应该专注于如何售卖包装美 好的衣物？对我来说，从一开始，方向就很清楚。” 从那时起，Shunmugum所付出的努力的确为她取得 成功。她赢得Singapore ELLE Awards 2012的年度最佳设 计师奖，并于2013新加坡总统设计奖提名最佳设计师。她 也受邀在多个场合主讲发言，包括在新加坡博物馆谈设计 和穿用传统旗袍，也曾在纽约的美国华人博物馆担任主讲 人。新的一年，Ong Shunmugam将前往纽约、伦敦、巴 黎参加各地的时尚周。n
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ABCENSE
or Abcense, product and fashion designer duo Jhuosan and Yoyo reinvent footwear into an avant garde work of art. They challenged traditional shoemaking by combining simple industrial components, an uncommon sight indeed! Only a year old, it all began with the necessity of creating shoes that represent the perfect fusion between footwear and design. Yoyo is a “shoeaholic”. “That’s the only thing I’m good at,” she joked. She mused that the craft is like writing a diary, except that it is with forms and shapes through sketching that reinvents balance, tension of details and proportion. Inspiration has always come from its roots. The concept of “blank leaving”, for instance, is a technique used in Oriental poetry and art like Chinese painting to leave an intentional visual hiatus to pique one’s imagination. This is the essence of Abcense. “We want to create timeless pieces that smoothly fit into the everyday life of their wearers. These shoes are created using the finest kidskin, calfskin and suede leather, mixing them to create a very complex structure, giving the shoe an almost 3D feeling,” elaborated Yoyo. “We play with overlapping stripes of materials to generate exclusive and unexpected shapes. The leathers are all hand-dyed and the shoes are hand-finished so that the pair of shoes will be inimitable, like no other.” Abcense is now stocked in shops in Germany, the Netherlands, Singapore, China, Hong Kong and Taiwan. Jhuosan and Yoyo are now preparing their shoe collection for the trendy male and hope to launch the new line in 2014. n
TAIWAN台湾
F
至于Abcense，是由台湾服装设计师潘国瑶和工业设计师 王卓三创立的品牌，把鞋子化身前卫艺术作品。他们挑战 传统制鞋技艺，融入简单的工业元素。这肯定是非常少见 的设计！ 品牌只有一年多的历史，创办时是为了创造能够把鞋履 与设计完美结合的作品。潘国瑶戏言自己是个“购鞋狂”， 而“买鞋是她唯一做得最好的事情。”这项技艺就像写日 记一样，不过，是以造型和形状来书写，画出那些能够取 得协调、细节上充满张力而有均匀对称的作品。 设计灵感来自他们的文化根源。例如，中国诗词与绘画 中的“留白”概念，在留白的空间中任由你填上自我的国 际诠释，这就是品牌的基础概念，鞋子都以同样的理念为 出发点，任由顾客发挥自己的想象力。
她分析：“我们要创造一些经得起时间考验的作品， 融入穿用者的日常生活中。这些鞋子采用最优秀的小山羊 皮、牛皮和绒皮，混搭以创造复杂的结构，为鞋子带来一 种接近3D的立体感。我们把不同的面料重重叠叠创造出独 一无二而又出人意表的形状。所有的皮革都是手工染色， 鞋子也是手工完成，因此每一双鞋子都是绝无仅有，只此 一双。” Abcense如今在德国、荷兰、新加坡、中国、香港和 台湾售卖。两人如今正在准备新设计的时尚男鞋，准备在 2014年推出新系列。n
GOURMET TRAVEL 美食旅游
Flavours of
Malacca 马六甲娘惹风味
Stay in a boutique hotel along the Malacca riverbank and be in the thick of Peranakan culture 入住马六甲河岸的精品酒店，深深感 受浓厚的土生华人文化
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visit to Malacca is never complete without savouring its irresistible Peranakan cuisine. And so besides tapas, Western fare and the nightly steamboat (hot pot), guests dining at Casa del Rio, a Mediterranean-inspired boutique hotel, also have the option of a mouthwatering Peranakan set lunch.
A HOME BY THE RIVER Located not far from the mouth of the idyllic Malacca river, Casa del Rio offers 66 luxurious rooms for guests who yearn for a “home by the river” which is exactly the English translation of the Spanish terms. To blend with its historical surroundings, the hotel’s architecture reflects the Portuguese heritage of Malacca as well as that of the Malacca sultanate. Warm colours, old wrought iron railings and ornamental lighting give a cosy Mediterranean touch to Casa del Rio which also houses a spa and gym along with an infinity pool on its rooftop. Most importantly, the hotel provides ample parking and longdistance coaches would have no problem pulling up right to the doorway for guests to disembark or embark – a much desired convenience for those travelling with elderly persons or kids in tow. Within Casa del Rio are three F&B outlets but you may wonder why would anyone dine at the hotel when there is such a wide choice
来到马六甲，怎能错过娘惹美食？就 连原本标榜地中海风味的地标式酒店 Casa Del Rio，除了提供高档西式餐 饮和晚间的火锅餐，最近更是在中午 时段推出娘惹式“Tingkat”(餐盒) 菜单。
座落河口的酒店 Casa Del Rio，西班牙语的意思是 Home by the sea，位置正好是马六 甲河口流向马六甲海峡的入海口，俨 然是马六甲河口的最新地标。位于老 街区，酒店不能建得太高，也不能显 得太过现代化。地中海式的建筑格局 结合了土生华人的设计元素，很好地 融入周边的整体环境。
WINELIVING 101
GOURMET TRAVEL of good food around Malacca, a street food heaven. Well, nothing beats dining at the hotel in air-conditioned spacious comfort with convenient parking to boot, particularly if you have a big group of diners. For pre-dinner cocktails and tapas, one can head to Bar Rio where a live band also entertains. A cosy dining experience awaits diners at the River Grill with grilled seafood, meats and classic favourites such as its homemade mushroom soup and mushroom risotto. Diners also have the option of pairing their food with wines recommended by the restaurant. Its third F&B outlet, the River Café, is the most immediately accessible part of the hotel. From Monday to Saturday, diners can expect chef Baba William’s Peranakan tingkat set lunch that includes the likes of kerabu mango squid/chicken, nyonya achar, kerabu ong lai timun (pineapple and cucumber), chap chai, omelette with cincalok and more. Served in enamel tiffin carriers, these authentic nyonya home favourites are from recipes passed down by chef William’s grandparents. Chef William, a Peranakan himself who has 36 years of experience in nyonya cuisine, rotates his menu items daily. In the evening, the restaurant becomes a wine and sushi bar offering a range of fresh seafood to complement its selection of wines, sakes, soju and cocktails.
102 WINELIVING
Casa Del Rio只有66间客房，属于精品酒店， 但拥有完善的酒店设施如游泳池、健身房、餐 馆、spa等等，更重要的是，有宽敞的停车场，长 途旅游巴士也可以直接把你载到酒店门前，对于 扶老携幼的家庭式旅客来说，比较理想。 你也许会怀疑，来到美食荟萃的马六甲，谁会 在酒店里用餐？的确，周边的街道巷弄间处处卧 虎藏龙，不过，要找个停车方便、冷气强劲、空 间宽敞的舒适环境，并不容易。尤其是带着老人 小孩或是与一大班朋友同行，地点很重要。 餐饮方面，酒店设有3个场所，这包括了提 供餐前小食和夜间有现场乐队表演的Bar Rio；提供早餐与正式餐饮如烤海鲜、肉 类及经典的自制蘑菇汤和蘑菇烩饭的River Grill，食客也可在此享用由餐馆推荐的佳 肴配搭美酒。 至于River Cafe，则推出具有一定卖 点的家常娘惹佳肴！中午时段(星期一至 星期六)推出的娘惹Tingkat套餐，四套菜 装在四层的tingkat容器端上桌来，再送上 一包白饭，很有特色。套餐有几种不同菜 单轮流登场，每天有两种选择，其中有参 芭苏东臭豆、娘惹杂菜、娘惹豆酱豆腐， 加上每日例汤、白饭、娘惹阿渣(Acar)和 甜品等。Tingkat套餐是由酒店师傅Chef Baba William主理，师傅是土生土长的峇 峇，烹制娘惹菜肴已有36年经验，推出的 都是祖父祖母流传下来的道道家常好菜。 傍晚时分，餐馆成为美酒和寿司吧，提供 一系列的新鲜海鲜让你依喜配搭红酒、清 酒、烧酒和鸡尾酒。 要好好探索UNESCO老区，直接住在老区里 还是最理想的选择。位于马六甲河口的Casa Del Rio于2011年开张，只有数步之遥就可从酒店大 门走到闻名热闹的鸡场街(Jonker Street)和荷兰街 (Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock)。若走累了还可随 时回到酒店，冲个凉休息一下又可以再次出击，
There is no better way to explore Malacca’s historical district (listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List) than to stay in the district itself. Casa del Rio, which began operations in 2011, is literally a stone’s throw from the famous Jonker Street and Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock. If one is tired from the exploration, one can easily head back to the hotel for a shower and recharge before pounding the heritage sites again. Hard Rock Cafe fans will be pleased to know that the Malacca’s outlet is just a stroll away.
娘惹鞋 Colour Beads
EXPLORING HISTORY
娘惹珠宝首饰博物馆 Straits Chinese Jewellery Museum 108, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock
Be in the thick of Peranakan culture as you stroll along Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, formerly known as Heeren Street, which houses many shops selling antiques, textiles, handicrafts and souvenirs. At the Colour Beads shop, one can find traditional nyonya beaded shoes that are not commonly seen nowadays. A few doors away is the Heeren Heritage – a Peranakan costume specialist shop where one can get to see traditional costumes worn by the bride and bridegroom on their wedding day. A visit to the Straits Chinese Jewellery Museum is strongly recommended. On display within the museum are more than 300 pieces of Peranakan jewellery. One can also get a glimpse of what a typical Peranakan household would look like as well as wedding preparation items that are hardly seen anymore. Those who desire more than a stroll would be glad to know the walking path along the cleanedup and rehabilitated Malacca river can take them as far as they want to go. Another option is to head to the hotel jetty by the piazza and embark on the evening river cruise to discover Malacca’s history through the tour guide’s narration as you cruise through the heart of the city. You will see old shophouses and godowns along the banks, passing Kampong Morten (a traditional Malay village) before the boat makes a U-turn at the Spice Garden. If you are lucky, you might even spot a monitor lizard or two during the 45-minute boat ride. n
SHOP LIST 84, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock 娘惹服 Heeren Heritage 90, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock
Casa del Rio 88 Jalan Kota Laksamana 电话：+606 289 6888 网站：casadelrio-melaka.com
街头走到巷尾，非常过瘾。还有，可别错过近在 咫尺的Hard Rock Cafe了。
探索老街区 具有浓浓的娘惹文化氛围的荷兰街(Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock)是到马六甲时非到不可的老街区。 在这里，您可在娘惹鞋专卖店里看到其他地方已 经非常少见的传统娘惹珠鞋，往前再走几步就是 Heeren Heritage娘惹服饰专卖店，店内可以看到 非卖品的传统娘惹婚礼服装。值得一访的还有娘 惹珠宝首饰博物馆，馆内展示300多件娘惹金饰， 还可欣赏土生华人风味的传统家居摆设、如今已 难得一见的娘惹婚嫁用品等等。 酒店的旁边的马六甲河，近几年来整修得焕 然一新。沿着长长的行人步道，可以沿河散步， 走到很远。不容错过的是乘船游河活动，全程45 分钟左右，从Casa Del Rio对岸的码头上船，一 直行驶到另一端的Spice Garden。沿途从两岸 的老店屋、旧仓库，慢慢经过新建的游乐场、传 统马来村庄Kampong Morten、绿意盎然的绿色 地带与香料公园，有时还能看到四脚蛇在河床边 出没。船上边走边聆听导览解说，增添了旅游趣 味，对马六甲也有更深一层的认识。 n WINELIVING 103
When we attend to something, we tend to be vividly conscious of just that particular thing and shut out its surroundings. Our attention is like a spotlight, illuminating one part and leaving the rest in darkness. Viewing some of Maiko Kitagawa’s artworks is akin to getting our eyes accustomed to the darkness before the surroundings start to open up and become more visible. L. Kerhaw sees the light and beauty in her darkness
In darkness, one finds the light
黑 暗 中 找 到 光
当我们专注于某件事时，只会对该事物有清楚的意识，而把周围的一切都隔离在外。我们的注 意力就像是一盏聚光灯，眼光只聚焦在某个部分上，其他的仿佛都处在黑暗之中。欣赏北川麻 衣子(Maiko Kitagawa)的作品，就像是眼睛适应黑暗的过程，我们会看到周围从黑暗逐渐变 亮，视线所及越变越清楚。L. Kerhaw正是如此，看到了它在暗中透出的光与美。
T
here is a certain kind of attractiveness in the darkness of Maiko’s artworks. The blackness in her works captures the viewer’s attention and imagination, expressing space as well as the time which indicates night. The darkness forms the essence of Maiko’s world because the barren darkness gives birth to a series of anthropomorphic hares, foxes, hogs and blackbirds bedecked in classical European fashion. Similar to the creatures inhabiting the fantasy world in Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland – an 1865 novel that tells of a girl named Alice who falls down a rabbit hole into a magical world populated by talking animals – Maiko adorns her creatures in high hats, dashing suits, ornate armour and peasant clothing with overlapping lines painted stroke by stroke using force and black dermatograph. She likes the contrast that she can make between black and white. The petite artist is never short on her encounters with animals. Born in 1983 in Saitama, Japan, Maiko was brought up surrounded by nature. Her father grew plants, and kept small animals and insects. As a child, she had encountered foxes, monkeys and other animals that are later depicted in her works. Mountain biking in the forests of Saitama also brings her closer to Mother Nature. Maiko also had extended stays in South America when she followed her mother during her overseas work attachment. Unique South American cultures like the Incan, Mayan and Aztec left a strong impression on young Maiko who grew up reading a lot of fairy tales that have an essence of darkness to them, particularly the Grimms’ Brothers
Maiko and her work 北川麻衣子和她的作品
The High Priestess 尊敬的女祭司, 2012 蜡铅笔 120公分X 80.2公分
Play in the Woods 林中嬉戏, 2013 蜡铅笔 100公分X 160公分
Strength 力量, 2012 蜡铅笔 120公分X70公分
北川的作品，有着穿透黑暗的吸引力。作品的暗抓住了观 赏者的视线和想像，让人对夜晚的空间和时间感留下遐 想。黑暗是北川作品中最重要的要素，因为她作品中那些 源自古典欧洲世界的、形象拟人化的野兔、狐狸、猪和黑 鸟，都是从黑暗中衍生而来的。在刘易斯·卡罗尔（Lewis Carroll）1865年所著的《爱丽丝梦游仙境》里，一位名叫 爱丽丝的女孩因坠入兔洞，而来到一个有着许多拟人化动 物的奇幻世界，北川也以力道适中、以蜡铅笔一笔一画堆 叠成的线条，来展现如同《爱丽丝梦游仙境》中戴高帽、 着华服、情感澎湃的人物形象。她喜爱用黑与白所打造出 来的反差感。 这位个子娇小的艺术家，自小就和动物结下不解之缘。 她在1983年出生于日本埼玉，并在大自然的怀抱中成长。 她的父亲喜爱园艺，也饲养小动物和昆虫。自小，她就见 过狐狸、猴子等动物，这些生活轨迹都可在她的作品中找 到。经常在山野间骑车，也让她更加贴近大自然。她的母 亲曾到南美洲工作，她当时跟随母亲同去并且延长居住了 一段时间。自小就爱读黑暗童话，尤其是格林童话的小北 川，当时对独特的南美洲文化如印加、玛雅和阿兹台克都 留下了深刻的印象。在格林童话中，有着许多进入古代德 国和法国丛林探险的故事，旅途充满奇幻却又带着恐怖和 暴力，且由神秘和惊险所引领。
从圆珠笔到蜡铅笔 对西方童话的喜爱是北川创作的灵感来源。她也受到弗朗 西斯科(Francisco Goya)画风的影响。起初，她喜欢使用 最容易取得的圆珠笔，来描绘自己的想像世界。虽然她能 用圆珠笔来让想像跃然纸上，但却也因此限制了作品的尺 寸和内容。转而使用蜡铅笔后，她能更容易地在画纸上打 黑，制造出黑与白的对比效果。她的作品风格尖锐，最大 的特色就是仅仅使用蜡铅笔来画出光暗与质感。当她把画 纸都填满黑色后，接着就会用橡皮擦来“挖”出一块白色 部分。这样一来，她就能制造出把光带入黑暗的效果—— 那是一种可驱散黑暗、亮度十足的光。光线穿透了黑暗， 没有事物比之来得更神秘。
ART
A Kids of Ogre 丑恶之子, 2013 蜡铅笔 61公分X 73公分
fairy tales. The tales are often a magical, yet scary and violent journey into the forests of ancient Germany and France where every path leads to mystery and adventure.
FROM BALLPOINT TO DERMATOGRAPH Her love for fables from the Western world is the inspiration for her artworks. Francisco Goya also counts as her other influence. Initially, she preferred to use the ballpoint for sketching her imaginary world because it was easily available. The ballpoint was a means for her to fill up white space but it was also limiting her work in both size and content. Converting to dermatograph allows her to black out a canvas easily – to paint black in order to show the white. Her edgy works are characterised by shades and textures through her singular use of the dermatograph. After painting black everywhere, she uses an eraser to “dig” out the white. By doing this, she brings the light into the darkness – a vivid light that dispels the darkness to let us see the brilliance within. There is no greater mystery than that of light travelling through darkness. Maiko likes the control afforded by the dermatograph as well as the texture that can be created. She usually thinks about what she will do and does not sketch anything in advance. Maiko first came across the dermatograph in 2008 when she used it for her lithography class at the Tokyo University of the Arts. Now, she uses the dermatograph in a way that is totally different from lithography. She works on Japanese Kent
dermatograph is a type of pencil made of tightly rolled paper and is round in section. Unlike traditional pencils, it does not need sharpening. To expose the marking pigment, an embedded string is pulled to slowly tear off parts of the paper. Originally developed for surgical operations, the dermatograph contains a lot of wax and can be used to mark the slick surface of metals, glasses, plastics, ceramics and other materials including human skin. 蜡铅笔是一种以纸紧绕着蜡笔芯而制 成的笔。它有别于传统的铅笔，不需 要用笔刨来削尖。只需拉一拉埋在笔 身中的细绳，就能将部分的纸剥开， 让笔芯露出。蜡铅笔最初是一种手术 工具，它含有大量的蜡，可在金属、 玻璃、塑料、瓷等材质，以及人体皮 肤表面上留下印记。
北川喜欢随心驾驭蜡铅笔的感觉，也喜欢它所能制 造出的质感。在下笔前，她都会先想好下一步是什么。 2008年在东京艺术大学教授平版印刷课，让北川首次 接触到蜡铅笔。现在，她使用蜡铅笔的方式已和平版印刷 课时截然不同。由于蜡铅笔在油画布上的效果不理想，她 选择用日本肯特纸固定在木框上作画。在这种纸上作画需 要一定的体力，她所练习的剑道正好能够助一臂之力。 从价值介于S$1,500 到 S$2,800之间的精致小品，到 价值高达S$26,000的豪气大作，北川所需的作画时间为 三星期到两个月。她也曾经花半年，来完成一副作品。当 她全情投入作画时，可以画上一整天，甚至连午餐也不用 吃。每件作品完成后都必须打上一层蜡，以防画作表面因 曝露于空气中而被氧化。此外，作品创作过程中还有许多 步骤，可防发霉和褪色的情况发生。
追寻黑暗 几乎在所有事物中，暗与光都同时存在。我们多数人都喜 欢光，因为它能为我们指引方向。然而，黑暗也能够让我 们看到星星，实在不应该摒弃。只有在黑暗中，光才能显 出它有多明亮。通过北川的作品，我们仿佛看到自身存在 就像是一道光束，挤出黑暗的夹缝而求存。 n
ART
Battle Game 战争游戏, 2010 圆珠笔 22公分x30.5公分
paper mounted on wooden panels because the dermatograph does not work well with canvas. It takes considerable physical strength to work on the paper and this is where her kendo practice comes to the aid. From small and intricate illustrations priced between S$1,500 and S$2,800, to large and lush canvases priced up to S$26,000, it could take between three weeks and two months for Maiko to complete her works. There had been times when she spent half a year on a work. When she is working, she can work all through the day – not even stopping for lunch. Her completed works would be polished to seal them from air that could oxidise the painting’s surface. The many stages in the preparation of her artworks make them resistant to mould and discolouration.
THE PURSUIT OF DARKNESS In almost everything, there is darkness and light. Most of us love the light because it shows us the way, yet we must endure the darkness because it shows us the stars. In order for the light to shine ever more brightly, the darkness must be present. Viewing Maiko’s art pieces might dawn on you that our existence is but a crack of light between two eternities of darkness. n WINELIVING 113
品 味 You can lead a horse to “wine” but you can’t make him drink Horse Wine Stopper by Shanghai Tang US$105