Globetrotting Magazine Fall 2023 by Goway Travel

Globetrottin

BY GOWAY

TOKYO: THE ENDURING CITY

WELCOME TO CALCATA: ITALY’S HIPPIE HAVEN

SURPRISED BY ARABIA

Your next destination:

Madeira Island, Portugal Madeira Island is the perfect destination to make a connection with nature and discover a land full of history and tradition. Marvel at unique landscapes, visit beautiful vineyards, and relax by the sea. Enjoy the year-round lush scenery.

Explore More

SATA Azores Airlines offers the only non-stop service from New York to Madeira as well as direct flights from Toronto.

STORIES

Take your journey in Peru to new heights.

Welcome to Calcata: Italy’s Hippie Haven: Travel writer David Farley returns to the eclectic hilltop town.

Responding to Crisis with Doctors Without Borders: Nurse Activity Manager Suzanna Bruce shares insight about her work in Uganda.

Crossroads of Central North Island New Zealand: Just to the south of Auckland lies a region of natural and cultural delights.

The Hidden Gems of Jordan: We go beyond Petra in the iconic Middle Eastern nation.

Tokyo: The Enduring City: 100 years after the Great Kanto Earthquake, Tokyo has rebuilt itself as the global standard for innovation and resilience.

Interview with Chef Curtis Stone: The celebrity chef shares some lessons from his culinary globetrotting journeys.

Surprised by Arabia: We report back from a trip to Saudi Arabia, which challenged our Western misconceptions.

Always Get the Goose: We return to Hong Kong to experience its culinary diversity.

To Act with Mālama: Five meaningful ways to connect with Hawaiian culture.

A Birthday in the Motherland: African American group travellers celebrate a milestone in Ghana.

Discover an Unspoiled Natural Paradise in the Cook Islands: Five things to know about this South Pacific nation.

New Ways of Visiting Cusco & Machu Picchu: Engaging with Quechua culture takes us back to the time of the Incas.

Citizen Scientist Coordinator in the “Engine Room” of the World: Citizen Science Coordinator Emily Gregory discusses her work aboard Ocean Endeavour.

Uluru Invites You to See Red: The drone show Wintjiri Wiru offers a new way to engage with the ancient stories of Uluru.

Fragrances of Qatar: A recent trip to Doha introduced us to the complex world of Qatari perfume and hospitality.

Island Rhapsody: An ode to Tahiti’s surf, savour, and song.

ON THE COVER Aerial view of Shibuya Crossing, the world’s busiest pedestrian intersection, Tokyo Japan. Story, page 40. 4

Float your cares away in Jordan’s Dead Sea.

INSIDER’S GUIDE

Hear travel tales from celebrity chef Curtis Stone.

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Editor’s Letter Trending: Ghana, Noteworthy Hotels and Tours Visual Travel: Morocco Ask an Expert: Australia The Nightcap: Wines of the Western Cape Off the Beaten Path: Komodo Island, Indonesia Book Ahead: Spring Cherry Blossoms in Japan The Splurge: The Brando on Tetiaroa Tested: Phone Camera Stabilizer 1 Destination 2 Ways: Lisbon: Families or Foodies Recommended: Culinary Docuseries Travel Like A Globetrotter: Explore the World Through Wine The Archive: Goway in Print

Back Cover: A hanabi (fireworks) festival usually occurs in the summer months in Japan and many locals attend in traditional yukata attire.

Globetrottin

Nº31

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Mitchell Fawcett ART DIRECTOR: Gareth Adamson MANAGING EDITOR: Aren Bergstrom PARTNERSHIPS: Lori Petteplace

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GOWAY CONTRIBUTORS:

Globetrotting is published by Goway Travel Web: www.goway.com Email: info@goway.com Social: @GowayTravel Phone: 800-387-8850

Thank you to our following travel partners for their support in this volume of Globetrotting: Central North Region Tourism (New Zealand), Chimu Adventures, Cook Islands Tourism Corporation, Hong Kong Tourism Board, Saudi Tourism Authority, and Visit Jordan Tourism Board. 6

GUEST CONTRIBUTORS

ERIC HENDRIKX HEATHER JASPAR Heather Jasper is a travel writer and photographer based in Cusco, Peru since 2019. Her articles about South America have been published in BBC Travel, Fodor’s Travel, Frommer’s, Horizon Guides, World Nomads, and more. Her travel guide app Peru’s Best has everything needed to plan a fantastic trip to Peru. She loves hiking in the Andes Mountains and learning Quechua. Before settling in South America as a writer, she taught French and Spanish in middle schools in the US, Turkey, and Bangladesh. You can learn more about her writing on her website heatherjasper.com.

Eric Hendrikx is a renowned author and writer whose globetrotting pursuits have taken him to far reaches around the world in search of fantastic foods and great places to ride motorcycles. On his journalistic adventures, he’s shared a grill with Jason Momoa, cruised on motorcycles with Keanu Reeves, and skateboarded with Tony Hawk. He currently lives in Toronto with his wife and their two black labs.

JILL ROBINSON

DAVID FARLEY David Farley has lived in San Francisco, Berlin, Prague, and Rome where he spent two years writing his first book, An Irreverent Curiosity: In Search of the Church’s Strangest Relic in Italy’s Oddest Town. He writes regularly for the New York Times, Food & Wine, and National Geographic. He currently resides in New York City.

Jill K. Robinson writes about travel and adventure for National Geographic, AFAR, Condé Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, Outside, Sierra, Virtuoso The Magazine, Hemispheres, and more. She has won three Lowell Thomas Awards from the Society of American Travel Writers Foundation in the categories of Foreign Travel, Culinary-Related Travel, and Environmental and Sustainable Tourism. Jill’s book collaboration with Gordon Ramsay and National Geographic— Gordon Ramsay’s Uncharted: A Culinary Adventure with 60 Recipes From Around the Globe—was published in April 2023. 7

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Dear Globetrotter This volume of Globetrotting is about new beginnings. Allow me to start with my own. Earlier this year I joined Goway, this magazine’s publisher, as the head of marketing. This comes with the privilege of being Globetrotting’s Editor-in-Chief. Speaking of privilege, I’m writing this letter as I conclude an incredible three-week trip in Rwanda. My safari pals reassure me that it’s not a brag to mention this now that I write about travel. This will take some getting used to. In fact, it’s actually an important part of my job to experience the world of travel the way you do. We call you globetrotters, and the more I know about you, the better this magazine will be. Here’s what I’ve learned so far: you are always dreaming about your next

trip. You delight in new experiences. You have a sense of adventure. You travel with intention. You travel often. So, what do new beginnings in travel mean to you? It may be the transformative power of experiencing a new culture. Perhaps it’s a new way of looking at a familiar destination. In this volume we’ll share new beginnings in Saudi Arabia’s burgeoning tourism industry (page 58). You’ll hear what it’s like to come home again to an ancient Italian village (page 22). Cusco and Machu Pichu are experienced through a new cultural lens (page 70). This volume of Globetrotting will also look and feel different from what you’ve seen from us in the past. We’ve invited new

perspectives from award-winning travel writers. We’ve reimagined how these pages look. And we’ve committed to delivering this to you four times a year instead of two. What will stay the same is our mission to share our passion and inspire you to realize a lifetime of travel. I’ll close my first editor’s letter with a thank you to Goway’s founding Hodge family. Bruce Hodge had the vision for a new beginning for Goway, and his son Adam invited me to be a part of it. Here’s to a very bright future ahead. Yours truly,

Mitchell Fawcett Editor-in-Chief 9

TRENDING

Ghana The Black Star of West Africa.

Kente cloth is a popular choice for special occasions in Ghana.

Why is it trending? Ghana is one of the safest, most politically stable, and most affordable nations in Africa. It’s a place of important heritage for African Americans due to its geographic role in the transatlantic slave trade. It’s also a centre for pan-African music with the AfroFuture music festival each December.

What are the destination highlights?

Vibrant food culture and market scenes in the capital Accra. Gorgeous national parks in Mole and Kakum. Sombre historical landmarks of the slave trade along the Cape Coast. Illuminating treasures from the Ashanti Kingdom and other historic West African civilizations.

What kind of things can you do there? Head on safari in Mole and Kakum. Go on a shopping spree in the markets of Accra. Hit up the sandy beaches on the coastline. Tour historic castles from the slave trade and landmarks from the Ashanti Kingdom. Extend the trip into Togo and Benin to visit the birthplace of voodoo, stilt villages, and trade markets.

When’s the best time to visit? Go in the dry season from November to March.

How can you get there? There are non-stop flights from New York City (JFK) and Washington, D.C. (IAD) to Accra. Larabanga Mosque is the oldest mosque in Ghana.

New & Noteworthy We’re keeping you informed about the latest happenings in the world of travel, from new hotels to tours to ways to connect worldwide.

New Direct Flight from Montreal to Toulouse In June 2023, Air Canada introduced a new non-stop flight from Montreal to Toulouse, France. Operating year-round on an Airbus A300 five days a week, this is North America’s only direct flight to Southern France. It offers a convenient access point for travellers seeking to explore France’s fourth-largest city, or connect to the French Riveria, Bordeaux, or the Pyrenees.

Southern Ocean Lodge Reopens on Kangaroo Island Bushfires decimated this 5-star property in late 2019, but after a painstaking rebuilding, Southern Ocean Lodge is reopening this year. SOL 2.0 features 25 guest suites on the southwestern coast of biodiverse Kangaroo Island and all-new amenities, including a massive Ocean Pavilion with four bedrooms and bathrooms and a breathtaking view of the Southern Ocean.

A Spiritual Tour of Sacred Mt. Koya in Japan Located to the south of Osaka and founded by the venerated Kobo Daishi, Mt. Koya is the sacred centre of the Koyasan sect of Shingon Buddhism. Travellers can now join a practicing Shingon Buddhist monk for an illuminating tour of the mountaintop settlement, which includes insight into the shojingu ritual, a walkthrough of hidden forest trails, and a vegetarian Buddhist bento lunch.

VISUAL TRAVEL

Morocco, a Modern Mosaic Take a journey through the patterns, colours, and textures of Morocco, where everything from intricate Moorish tilework to carpet weaves to carvings on ancient stones speak to how Arab and Berber culture have combined to define the nation.

ASK AN EXPERT

Australia Get expert insight on Australia with Destination Specialist for the South Pacific, Joanne Palanuik. Joanne hails from New Zealand and has explored Australia countless times over the years. What’s your favourite place to visit? Port Douglas in Queensland. What’s a great place to eat? Dundees on the Waterfront in Cairns. What’s a unique way to explore? Ride in a hot air balloon over the outback. You get to spot kangaroos in the early morning, watching them from above when they’re completely unaware of your presence. What’s a hidden gem that more people should know about? Kangaroo Island in South Australia. What’s a famous landmark that travellers absolutely should not miss? There are almost too many to mention, but everyone needs to see the Great Barrier Reef.

When’s the best time to visit? The Australian spring of October and November, or the autumn of March and April. What surprised you most? There is still no tipping in Australia! What’s a common misconception? Its size, as a lot of travellers don’t realize that Australia is almost as big as the United States. What is the best place to stay? Cooinda Lodge Kakadu in Kakadu National Park, which has new rooms, including the Yellow Water Villa, which is a luxury tented villa with an ensuite bathroom. What is the best way to get around? It all depends on how long you’re there and where you’re going, but it’s usually a combo of flights, rail, and private car.

THE NIGHTCAP

WINES OF THE WESTERN CAPE Explore South Africa’s most famous wine region with three of our local favourites.

OFF THE BEATEN PATH

Komodo Island, Indonesia Home to the mighty Komodo dragon and one of the best diving sites in the world.

WHERE IS IT?

Boschendal Sommelier Selection Chenin Blanc A crisp, dry wine that comes from one of the best places to stay the night in the holiday town of Franschhoek. Perfect on a hot summer day paired with grilled chicken or shellfish and a salad.

Venture into the Lesser Sunda chain of islands in eastern Indonesia and you’ll find this small marvel: a remote island of 1,800 people and the natural home to the world’s largest lizard, the Komodo dragon.

Komodo National Park.

WHY SHOULD YOU GO? This is the only place to see the Komodo dragon in the wild. The Indonesian government created Komodo National Park, which comprises Komodo, Padar, and Rinca, as well as 26 smaller islands, in 1980 to protect the natural habitat of the Komodo dragon. Today, this remote park is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve. It’s also home to some of the best coral reefs in Southeast Asia.

Lanzerac Pionier Pinotage A red wine that’s unique to South Africa and tastes like a rustic cross between pinot noir and cinsault. Pair it with red meat, venison, or poultry. The winery dates back to 1692 and is one of the oldest in the country.

Komodo is a haven for wildlife viewing. Watch 150 lb / 68 kg dragons stalk across the beaches, spot wild boars and deer cut through the lush interior, and dive beneath the waves to explore exotic reef environments where barracuda and parrotfish abound.

HOW DO YOU GET THERE? The Jem by Waterford Estate Voted as one of the top 1% of wines in the world, this red blend is named after the owner of Waterford Estate in Stellenbosch, and has a bold, dry finish with notes of oak and blackberry. 14

Komodo Island is only accessible by boat from the port of Labuan Bajo. Fly from Bali to Labuan Bajo and join a wildlife tour. The dry season between April and December is the best time for wildlife viewing in Komodo. Goway has several Indonesian travel packages that include visits to Komodo.

Padar Island.

Sankeien Garden, Yokohama, Japan.

BOOK AHEAD

Spring Cherry Blossoms in Japan Enamoured with the beauty of cherry blossoms? You’re not alone!

The hanami (flower viewing) season in Japan offers one of the world’s most beautiful floral displays. It’s also the hottest ticket in the entire calendar year. Massive crowds flock to Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka in particular to gaze upon the heavenly whites, pinks, and yellows of the sakura (cherry blossoms) and join the party that takes place

beneath their branches. Sake flows freely and seemingly every single person in the city wants a selfie with the blooms. Hotels and tours are packed, so if you want to see the sakura in the spring, you need to act fast and book ahead. The sakura don’t last forever, and neither do the empty hotel rooms and tour spots.

THE SPLURGE

The Brando on Tetiaroa A sustainable, intimate resort in its own slice of nowhere.

Named for the iconic actor Marlon Brando, who leased the island for 99 years, The Brando on Tetiaroa is one of the world’s leading island resorts. It’s also one of the most incomparably intimate. Located on an atoll to the north of Tahiti surrounded by a barrier ring of 12 motus, The Brando is all by its lonesome in the turquoise waters of the South Pacific, with nothing and no one to disturb the peaceful escape of its guests.

The resort consists of 35 private villas ranging from one-bedroom accommodation to a completely private residence with three bedrooms and its own dedicated butler. Each villa is built sustainably to preserve the fragile ecosystem and blend into the stunning environment of sandy beaches, endemic foliage, and calm waters. The Brando offers a blissful, quiet world away from it all.

THE SUPER SEA WOLF SKIN DIVER Inspired by the original 1953 Sea Wolf Diver that put Zodiac on the map, built for the modern adventurer.

ZODIACWATCHES.COM

TESTED

Phone Camera Stabilizer Elevate your travel videography with the DJI Osmo SE.

A stabilizer for your phone camera can elevate your amateur video footage to a professional standard. The DJI Osmo SE is a game changer. Gone are the days of carrying around heavy gear and lenses that can weigh you down when you simply want to capture the big moment.

of camera shake, giving a nod to the original DJI Ronin (the industry standard for professional videographers), and a joystick with various modes for panoramas and tracking shots that allow you to easily translate your footage into smooth and fluid movements.

With a compact design, the Osmo SE easily fits into your bag, ready to accompany you on your next adventure.

The only downside of this gadget is the battery in extreme temperatures. The Osmo SE battery was no match for the desert in Doha.

Notable features include a three-axis gimbal technology that erases any trace 18

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1 DESTINATION 2 WAYS

Lisbon: Families or Foodies This Portuguese hotspot is one of Goway’s most popular destinations of 2023. Whether you’re chasing your young ones, or in pursuit of a Michelin star, we’ve got you covered.

The iconic Lisbon tram system has operated since 1873.

Families

Foodies

Take the E28 Tram to Graça for a scenic selfie at Lisbon’s peak.

Take the E12 Tram to Prado Mercearia and snack like a local.

Hop on a boat for a two-hour dolphin watching tour along the region’s coast.

Explore cafes and vendors along Lisbon’s winding alleys on a street food tour.

Relax in Jardim da Estrela, a sprawling park with playgrounds, ponds, and a café with a kid-friendly menu.

Bring a takeaway box of pastéis de bacalhau (cod fritters) and wine for a picnic in pristine Parque Eduardo VII.

Visit Oceanário de Lisboa, one of Europe’s largest indoor aquariums.

Visit Cervejaria Ramiro, a restaurant that famously serves only fresh-caught seafood.

Treat yourself to world-famous pasteis de nata (custard tarts). Our favourite ones in Lisbon are from Manteigaria.

RECOMMENDED

Culinary Docuseries Get inspired even when you’re not travelling with these culinary travel docuseries, all available on streaming.

TASTE THE NATION WITH PADMA LAKSHMI Join the incomparable Padma Lakshmi on a tantalizing expedition to discover America’s multicultural melting pot of flavours. The award-winning cookbook author and television host unveils the 20

hidden culinary gems that have left an indelible mark on American cuisine and history, from traditional Indigenous recipes to the tempting delicacies of recent immigrant arrivals. Streaming on Disney+

KOREAN COLD NOODLE RHAPSODY Delve into the world of Korea’s coolest summertime staple: naengmyeon or “chilled noodles.” Join expert chef and food researcher, Paik Jong-won, on a flavour-packed journey from the cities of Seoul and Busan to the islands of Baengnyeongdo and Jeju to uncover the heartwarming history and unique preparation of this trending delicacy. Streaming on Netflix

GORDON RAMSAY: UNCHARTED Follow along as legendary chef Gordon Ramsay delves into the hidden flavours of Indigenous communities around the world. As Ramsay crafts awe-inspiring feasts to honour these local communities and ventures through dense jungles and over towering mountains, you’ll learn essential information about these vibrant cultures from Laos to Hawaii to Peru. Streaming on Disney+ and Nat Geo TV

Calcata sits on granite cliffs over 450 ft / 137 m high.

WORDS DAVID FARLEY

Acclaimed travel writer David Farley once lived in Calcata. Over a decade later, he returns to the hilltop town to take us on a journey through its eclectic history of artistry, counterculture, and oddball relics.

Tourists often visit Calcata on a day trip from Rome, as it’s located only an hour to the north.

Welcome to Calcata

Italy’s Hippie Haven 23

Calcata, a medieval hill town wedged in the hills north of Rome, might be the most fascinating village in Italy. And the grooviest. I had lived in the village for two years, penning a book about the experience and then returning a couple of years later with a film crew from National Geographic to participate in a documentary about the book. And yet, here I am, standing on the main square again, my first time back in about a decade. I’ve been in Rome on a magazine assignment and my wife, Spanish artist and photographer Ivana Larrosa, suggested we take an overnight trip here. After all, she’d heard so much about the village’s far-out vibe and knew how much this place and its inhabitants have meant to me. To fully understand present-day Calcata, we have to go back to Mussolini’s Italy in the 1930s. That’s when the government condemned Calcata, claiming the 450 ft / 137 m cliffs it sits on were in danger of crumbling. This turned out to be cooked-up political charges, but by the 1960s, a new village, called Calcata Nuova, was ready about a half mile away and the old borgo was in the process of being abandoned. That’s when something interesting happened: hippies and artists began turning up, moving in, and fixing up the place. They even got the government to reverse the death sentence on the village. Many of these hippies had just spent a significant amount of time in India where they were first introduced to a fixture in Hindu temples called a shiva linga. This object consists of a phallic-like linga surrounded by a yoni, which has been translated as “divine passage,” “place of birth,” and “womb” and is often thought of as the vagina to the linga’s phallus, the yin to the linga’s yang. The yoni, which has ridges around its circumference, traps water that is poured over the linga. And when the hippies first came to Calcata, having just hopped off a plane from the Indian subcontinent, I can imagine what they thought when they got their first glance at Calcata: a rock, rising straight up (with a rickety village plopped on top) smack in the centre of a verdant valley with a river running around it. Many of them did, in fact, see it as a natural shiva linga. It was a sign. This was theirs—a natural shiva linga, a sacred place, where a village sits like a cupcake atop a high stump of volcanic tuff stone, its houses made from the same type of rock on which it sits, giving the appearance that the ancient buildings had magically sprouted from the earth in some enchanting, near-mythical bygone age. Since then, Calcata has been part of the counterculture movement in Lazio, the central Italian region where Rome is the capital. The 70 or so hippies and artists who (still) live here have opened up art galleries and craft shops. On weekends, when Romans flock here on day and overnight trips, the main piazza is abuzz with people selling crafts and restaurants emitting the scents of wild boar ragu pasta and tender roasted chicken. Opposite top: Local residents can tend to be a bit furry. Opposite bottom: Most of Calcata’s homes retain their original foundations from the Middle Ages.

“I hope you’re not here to write another book about the village,” says Marina, a craftsperson who sells leather goods and jewelry from a table on the main square. Before I can respond, she adds, “The world is big and interesting and there is a lot more out there than this tiny place.” She’s right. I assure her that I am only there for one night and we both let out a cathartic laugh. That’s when one of my best friends in the village walks up. Pancho Garrison is a mosaic artist and chef. An American by birth, the 72-year-old has spent most of his life in Italy and has been living in Calcata since 1980. “As you can see,” he says, with swan-like sweep of his arm, “not much has changed.” Local artist Costantino Morosin carved three Etruscan thrones out of tuff stone in the early ’80s and placed them in the square. They’re still here and they’re now aesthetic fixtures of the village. In this age of Instagram, they’re popular photo props. Ivana and I then stroll into the church, whose name, Chiesa del Santissimo Nome di Gesú (Church of the Most Holy Name of Jesus), is a hint as to the very unusual object that had a home here for four and a half centuries. In 1527, a German soldier was caught outside of the village. He’d just taken part in raiding Rome under the direction of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. The soldier was thrown in a jail cell fashioned out of a cave in Calcata. He was later released but he left in the cave some of the booty that he had taken from Rome: a bejeweled reliquary. And inside the container, there was a relic, a very odd artifact: the foreskin of Jesus. The pope at the time of the relic’s rediscovery, Pope Paul IV, said that fate brought the relic to Calcata and so there it should remain, putting the village on the weird relics map. The name of the church is a reference to the historic Jewish custom of both circumcising a baby boy and giving him his name on his eighth day. And so, the relic remained in Calcata until 1983 when the relic disappeared under mysterious circumstances. Today there’s just an empty space at the altar where the relic once sat and a big enigma wrapped in a bejeweled reliquary about what happened to it. Pancho, Ivana, and I wander into a café. As we sip espresso, Pancho reminds me what he loves about Calcata. “It’s like an atavistic fairytale-like place, a fortress on a hill with a rook and a campanile. Even that the Holy Foreskin was here adds to it. Villagers here have long said the relic is actually the real Holy Grail. The village just has a magical energy oozing from it.” He pauses to take a sip of coffee and then adds, “The other element Opposite top: Costantino Morosin’s Etruscan thrones lie in Calcata’s central square. Opposite bottom: You’ll still find a few vintage city signs adorning the corners of buildings throughout Calcata.

Winding alleyways lead to unexpected delights.

to Calcata that makes it so special is that nearly everyone here has their own artistic talent and wackiness that makes them unique. It’s still a magnet that attracts unusual and surprising people. And the village has a vibe that inspires people to be themselves.” One of those people is Costantino, who walks into the café, wearing his trademark bowtie and his grey hair sprayed up over his head in a Baby Huey ponytail. “You’re back,” he says, patting me on the shoulder as he walks by. Costantino says he’s moved on from Etruscan thrones to digital art. He pulls out his phone and opens up an app he created. It works in conjunction with Google Maps to produce intriguing digital art that utilizes augmented reality by showing portraits and images he creates on a virtual landscape of the earth. Just then Angela Marrone, a Naples-born painter, enters the café. “Ciao David!” she says with enthusiasm and gives me a light kiss on each cheek. “Great to see you back in Calcata,” she says. A minute later, we are in her studio, fashioned out of an old theatre. Angela’s paintings, many of which are images of urban landscapes that look otherworldly and fantastical, are crammed on the walls. In addition to Angela, Costantino, and Pancho, other wellknown artists in the village include writer and painter Simona Weller, painter Romano Vitali, Dutch marionette maker Marijcke van der Maden, painter Giancarlo Croce, the recently deceased architect Paolo Portoghesi, and Athon Veggi—a writer, painter, and Egyptologist who lives in a cave on the side of the village with a dozen crows. They’ve all put Calcata on the artistic map. We spend the rest of the afternoon wandering around the village, popping into the Grotta Sonora, a workshop and gallery fashioned out of an ancient cave. It’s here where a talented young couple named Madhava Carrara and Margherita Cioffi make amazing gongs and do sound therapy sessions. They’ve since become renowned internationally.

We also pop into a new-ish shop called La Cartonera. Owner and artist Silvana Sabatelli, originally from Argentina, sells her unique creations here made out of used cardboard. From looking at and even touching the earrings, necklaces, picture frames, and masks, you’d never guess they were made of repurposed cardboard. When I ask her why she moved to Calcata of all places, she says, “Calcata allows you to be anyone you want, to take chances on achieving a dream.” She looks around her shop and then adds, “I did just that,” and smiles. After lingering in the square for a while where I meet some old friends from when I lived here, we end up going into a new restaurant called Il Guazzabuglio, which translates from Italian as “the mess” or “jumble.” I feel like a mess when I see who is inside the restaurant waiting for me: a surprise jumble of old great friends from Calcata: Elena, Beatrice, and Omar and his girlfriend, Ludovica. There are hugs, double kisses on the cheek, high fives, and more hugs. Pancho introduces me to the owner of the restaurant, Veronica Pipiana. “Oh, so you are the writer?” she asks. “I’ve read your book and I loved it. It’s such an honour to have you here.” We spend the rest of the evening feasting on pasta dishes, drinking red wine, and catching up. It’s the perfect day in Calcata.

In Calcata, it’s typical for artists, shop keepers, and tourists to gather in the streets after dark.

Responding to Crisis with Doctors Without Borders An interview with Suzanna Bruce about her experience working in Uganda. WORDS AREN BERGSTROM

Suzanna Bruce is a nurse from Nova Scotia who has been working as a Nurse Activity Manager with Doctors Without Borders/Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF) since 2018. Founded in 1971, MSF is a humanitarian organization providing healthcare and humanitarian aid to over 70 countries. Last year, Suzanna was working with an MSF team in Uganda responding to a malnutrition crisis in the northeast. Earlier this year, Goway partnered with MSF to help support their critical work providing emergency medical assistance to people facing humanitarian crises around the world. We caught up with Suzanna to learn about her career, her time in Uganda, and how travellers can support MSF. This interview has been edited for clarity and length. The views expressed in this interview are those of Suzanna Bruce and are not necessarily representative of MSF.

AB: How did you first get involved with MSF? SB: I have always wanted to work for MSF specifically. So, when deciding what I wanted to do in university, one of the reasons I chose nursing was because it’s a career MSF needs. I had to work for a while to build my resume and develop skills that would be useful to them as an organization. AB: What were you doing in Uganda? SB: We had gotten notification that there was this big malnutrition crisis in the north. We had gone to do our own assessment to see what the situation was and determine if we needed to launch an intervention. The team was made up of myself, two logisticians and then my boss, a medical manager. We would go around to the different health centres to ask them what they saw happening and collect some of their data. We also stopped in some of the small communities to speak with people. AB: What did you learn about the local community? SB: A lot of people are still living similarly to how they have been for quite a while, especially some of the communities in rural areas. They’re still farming in a lot of the same ways that they always have been, living with a lot of their traditional culture, which is really nice to see. AB: What surprised you about the region? SB: The thing I keep thinking about is that the cell service is so bad in Nova Scotia I can barely even send a text message, but everywhere in Uganda has the best cell service. You’re in the middle of nowhere and you have perfect 4G. And here I can’t even send a text. [laughs] AB: What’s something that travellers should know about Uganda that they may not see on a typical vacation? SB: People should take some time to just go out if they have a day in Kampala. Walk around the streets and buy a rolex—a super common street food (a chapati with egg and cut up tomatoes). It’s street food so I think people may be a bit afraid to try it, but it’s so good. But don’t walk down the street and eat it, as that’s not the polite thing to do [in Uganda]. You have to go somewhere and sit down and eat it. AB: Generally speaking, how can travellers support the communities they visit? SB: I think it’s always really important to support local tourism entities that are run by local people. And when you have tour guides who are obviously local people, giving them a nice tip at the end, just trying to keep as much of your spending in the community as possible is really important. AB: What advice would you give to a person who is inspired to get involved with MSF? SB: Honestly, donate. Most of our staff are locally hired, and 97 percent of our funding comes from private donors. So much of it is just from regular people giving, for example, 10 bucks a month.

Opposite top: In 2014, MSF responded to an ebola crisis in West Africa. Opposite bottom: An MSF team treats locals during excessive flooding in Malawi in 2015. Top: MSF relies on local relationships to provide transportation and security.

Crossroads of

Central North Island New Zealand We uncover a region that is New Zealand’s best-kept secret.

WORDS MEG BOYD

The Coromandel Auckland

Bay of Plenty

Tairāwhiti Gisborne Rotorua

Waikato

The Touring Routes of the Central North Island

Taupō Pacific Coast Highway

Ruapehu

Hawke’s Bay

Thermal Explorer Highway

Volcanic Loop

When you’re in the Central North Island New Zealand, drive an hour in any direction and witness the landscape transform. Red flowered Pohutukawa trees give way to golden sandy beaches, coursing rivers lead to black sands and jagged coastlines. It’s not just nature that transforms. It’s the culture too. Beach towns turn into wineries and bed and breakfasts dotting the countryside. Modern cities showcase Indigenous traditions. Every bend in the road reveals a new opportunity to experience the diversity of New Zealand in all its glory.

Away From it All in The Coromandel

This is New Zealand’s nature at its most pristine. Follow the mountain trails of The Pinnacles and experience the green landscape and golden sands that take you back to the days before human habitation.

Flavours of the Bay of Plenty

An idyllic stretch of coastline from Waihi Beach to Tauranga that showcases the bounties of the sea. Stay in a bed and breakfast and spend your days meeting new friends over fresh seafood, prawn toast, cheese scones, and classic fish and chips.

Sacred First Light in Tairāwhiti Gisborne

Manaakitanga in Rotorua

Wines & Cellar Doors of Hawke’s Bay

Taupō’s Call to Adventure

In the 13th century, one of the first sights early Māori explorers would’ve laid eyes on is Maunga Hikurangi, the first place in the world to see the sunrise of a new day. Hike up the mountain before dawn to witness the sunrise, seeing the land and the sky with the same eyes as New Zealand’s first inhabitants.

Mission Estate winery opened its doors in 1851. Today, it is the oldest winery in New Zealand and emblematic of the rich wine culture that awaits visitors in Hawke’s Bay. Recently crowned a Great Wine Capital of the World, the region has more than 200 wine producers showcasing everything from complex, buttery Chardonnay to deep, full-bodied Bordeaux blends and Syrah.

Award-Winning Gardens & The Shire in Waikato

Middle-earth is real in Matamata, where the Hobbiton™ Movie Set lets fans of The Lord of the Rings live out their fantasy. To the west, the lovely city of Hamilton offers a relaxed atmosphere in the midst of gorgeous gardens and a great restaurant scene.

Manaakitanga is Māori generosity and respect. Rotorua, the nation’s most populous Māori city, is defined by manaakitanga. Dive into Māori traditions, enjoy a hangi (underground oven) feast, visit a village that recreates the preEuropean period, and, of course, hit up the famous geothermal sites bubbling throughout the region. The crystal clear waters of Lake Taupō are calling you. Hike or bike the Great Lake Trails where you can experience ancient forests and unsurpassed lake views or gaze upon the mighty Huka Falls. Taupō is a paradise for nature lovers and adventurous souls.

The Greater Outdoors of Ruapehu

Two of New Zealand’s finest national parks lie in Ruapehu. Hike the worldrenowned Tongariro Alpine Crossing with its otherworldly volcanic landscapes or embark on an adventure along the sacred Whanganui River. Book a local guide for an immersive experience. Opposite: A boat tour of Lake Taupō offers the chance to see the Ngātoroirangi Mine Bay Māori Rock Carvings up close.

Camel caravans can still be seen crossing the red sands of Wadi Rum today.

The Hidden Gems of Jordan In the Middle East, this country goes far beyond the historic city of Petra. WORDS CHRISTIAN BAINES

From the exciting urban rush of Amman to a 40-day hike that takes you from one end of the country to the other, Jordan is an ancient land filled with surprises. Shaped by dozens of cultures over its history, Jordan today lures up to a million visitors each year to Petra, the Nabataean city that spent five centuries largely hidden from Western eyes. Yet, these bucket-listing sightseers make up less than a quarter of Jordan’s international tourist numbers. In other words, much more awaits those who stay a little longer in Jordan. Running close second to Petra for fame is Wadi Rum, the desert known to many for its star turns in Lawrence of Arabia… and Star Wars, The Martian, Dune, Prometheus, and… we could go on, it’s a long list. But long before Hollywood came calling, Wadi Rum was home to desert tribes including the Zalabieh, who conduct tours inside the Wadi Rum Protected Area today. With their strong local connection to the land, tours like these are by far the best, most meaningful way to explore, admire, and understand Wadi Rum. You might even enjoy the legendary 36

hospitality of the Bedouins, the region’s traditional nomadic inhabitants. Ancient sites dot Jordan from top to bottom, but several of the most famous can be explored right in Amman, so give yourself a couple of days in the capital when you arrive. The 6,000seat Roman Theatre dates to the 2nd century and is famed for acoustics that allow actors to be heard even in the far back rows. Don’t miss the nearby 500-seat Odeon, just in case you thought multi-theatre arts venues were a new concept! Another ancient treasure not to be missed is Jerash. This Greco-Roman city contains some of the best-preserved Roman ruins in Jordan, and is Jordan’s second most-visited attraction, partly because of its proximity to Amman. Walk under Hadrian’s Arch, explore the 15,000-seat Hippodrome, weave your way through the mighty columns at the Temple of Artemis, and wonder at what the enormous Zeus Temple must have been like in its heyday.

The Amman Citadel is located on top of Jebel Al Qala’a, a hill in the city of Amman, 2,800 ft / 850 m above sea level.

St. John the Baptist Church is located in the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Bethany Beyond the Jordan.” It can be visited on a day trip from Amman, roughly an hour away from the city centre.

Hopefully you get a chance to see the beautiful mosaics at Jerash’s Byzantine church, but regardless, it’s worth a special trip to see Jordan’s best-known mosaics in Madaba, including the enormous map found in St. George’s Church. Another historic site close to Amman is Kerak Castle, whose stone walls hold turbulent stories dating back to the Crusades. While it’s home to one of the world’s most beautiful and famous deserts, Jordan’s geography is as varied as its history. Stop in at the Dead Sea for a little “spa and R,” enjoying the health-giving properties of the salty waters. The Dana Biosphere Reserve is the largest nature reserve in Jordan and shows off the country’s natural diversity in full bloom, from dry, golden deserts to lush Mediterranean forests. Geographically, you’ll see Europe, Africa, and Asia come together as you explore. But humans have played a key role in its history too. Dana Village is believed to have been inhabited for over 6,000 years. Connecting many of these amazing sites is the Jordan trail, an epic multi-week hiking journey that can be taken in short highlights, or as one complete trek for the ultimate journey through this ancient land. Whether you’re here for the long walk, that once-in-a-lifetime trip to Petra, or just a few days in Amman, take a moment to enjoy the whole picture. You’ll find so many more pieces that make up Jordan!

100 years ago, Tokyo was decimated by the Great Kanto Earthquake. How did it rebuild? And how did it become the global standard of innovation and hospitality that it is today?

Tokyo: The Enduring City WORDS AREN BERGSTROM

The neon lights and signs of Akihabara “Electric Town” shimmer through the rain.

Tokyo sees 40 million daily fares on its transit system, with many passengers transiting through key hubs such as Shinjuku Station.

When you’re in Tokyo, it doesn’t feel like you’re in the largest city in the world. It’s big, to be sure. Come sundown, crowds of workers flood out of Shinjuku Station like Hokusai’s famous Great Wave. In Shibuya to the south, the iconic scramble crossing offers a constant dance of people moving in all directions at all hours of the day. But in the midst of the crowds, there is no chaos, no bustle. Everyone moves with polite purpose. It’s just after 8am and I’m strolling down Uchibori dori. To my right lie the grey stones and manicured gardens of the Imperial Palace soaking up the bright sun of a Tokyo morning. The palace workers in their crisp suits and ironed skirts parade to Sakashitamon Gate to start their workdays. Cars drive by me along the ring road to my left. I cross the road and stroll the three blocks east to Tokyo Station. At the ticket booth, I select the English language option and punch in my destination: Suidobashi, right near Tokyo Dome City, the amusement park that encircles the baseball stadium. I pay my fare: 170 yen, which converts to a little over $1 US. I catch the train and ride a few stations northwest where I reach my destination. The whole process takes around seven minutes, from when I first approach the ticket booth to when I arrive at Tokyo Dome City. Seemingly everything is so simple in Tokyo. If you want a drink or a snack, a well-stocked vending machine is on every corner. If you want to purchase a beer or some groceries, a konbini (convenience store) is only a block away, offering a level of cleanliness, quality, and service that is unheard of in the West. The streets are clean. People even line up for the subway, which arrives every minute on the minute. The rarest of 30 second delays will bring a profuse apology over the intercom from the conductor, who is ashamed for causing such a delay. The people are friendly, hospitable, endlessly accommodating. The first time I was in Tokyo, I arrived jetlagged and lost in the streets of Kanda. Within two minutes of getting off the train, no fewer than three complete strangers had approached me to ask if they could help me find where I was going. Later trips to Japan would prove this spirit of omotenashi (Japanese hospitality) was not a fluke; it’s essential to life here. Tokyo does it better. Everything and everyone functions with a clarity and efficiency that is the envy of those lucky enough to visit. But it wasn’t always this way. The innovation of Tokyo was born out of necessity, forged in the fires of tragedy over the past century.

Fires during the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 burned down much of Tokyo.

A City Brought Low

On September 1, 1923, Tokyoites prepared their lunches over open fires and grills. As they added more charcoal to the fire and boiled their rice, a 7.9 magnitude earthquake hit Sagami Bay off the southeastern coast of Honshu. The earthquake ripped through Tokyo and Yokohama directly to the north. It toppled buildings. Flames from open kitchen fires spread to wooden walls and soon a fire whirl blazed through the city, burning down its high-density wooden housing. In the end, a confirmed 105,000 people died in the disaster, with another 40,000 missing. The disaster came to be known as the Great Kanto Earthquake, and it set in motion the actions that forged Tokyo as it is today. Not that Tokyo was free of hardship in the coming decades. During World War II, American planes bombed the city and burnt it to the ground once again. Another 100,000 Tokyoites lost their lives in the air raids and the decade that followed was one of famine and a difficult rebuilding. In the aftermath of these disasters, Japan introduced the Building Standards Act, which required cities to be able to better withstand fires and earthquakes. As a result, Tokyo was rebuilt with lower density wooden neighborhoods, more green space, and wider roads. As well, the country would prepare its citizens for disaster. Each September 1 since 1960 has been known as Disaster 44

Prevention Day. Citizens take part in drills and the public pays respects to those lost in devastating natural disasters, including the Great Kanto Earthquake as well as the Tohoku Earthquake and Tsunami of 2011. 1964 brought the Tokyo Summer Olympics and the city went through a modernization that saw concrete high-rises replace traditional wooden homes. However, much of the construction proved to be an overcorrection. As Professor Hidenobu Jinnai of Hosei University commented in an article for the Guardian, “The Tokyo Olympics in 1964 decisively caused the loss of [Tokyo as a] ‘water city.’” Tokyo’s canals were paved over, water pollution was exacerbated, and many of the Meiji-era buildings and bridges were lost. Soon, Tokyoites realized that all new developments in Tokyo needed to balance tradition with innovation, core Japanese style with new practices introduced from the West. Tokyo learned to prepare and plan and build forward. There is a Japanese proverb, ichinen no kei wa gantan ni ari, which roughly translates to “A whole year should be planned on New Year’s Day.” The meaning: all success begins with preparation and planning. Tokyo demonstrates the truth of this proverb. Over the past century, the city and its people have learned this lesson well.

O-jizo-sama statues are found in temple gardens and residential neighbourhoods throughout Tokyo and Japan.

Tradition vs. Innovation

As Director of Tokyo Tourism’s Canadian representative office, Shin Kawai understands how Tokyo’s citizens were forged by generations of tragedy. “We lost a lot, but that gave us the chance to rediscover our traditional life,” he tells me over a Zoom call. “These days, whenever any urban renewal or city planning is done, they look at their own tradition. They try to incorporate and find the right balance between their own culture and tradition with the latest architectural technology.” In Tokyo, it doesn’t take long to see a demonstration of this balance in practice. Stroll through any neighbourhood in Tokyo and you’ll inevitably spot small stone statues of a round-headed, crescent-eyed deity known as O-jizo-sama. Traditional belief holds that O-jizo-sama protects children from hardship and illness and cares for the souls of children who have passed away. “Local people put flowers or food and some drinks there [for O-jizo-sama],” says Shin Kawai. “They’re trying to keep this local tradition in their neighbourhood so they don’t turn into a sort of cold, concrete-surrounded neighbourhood.” You’ll find these statues next to the tallest skyscrapers or brightest neon lights in Tokyo, a reminder of tradition in the modern era.

When Tokyo embarks on urban renewal, the needs to increase infrastructure and facilitate growth are balanced with a desire to preserve the unique aesthetic and atmosphere of neighbourhoods. The recent development of Shimokitazawa is emblematic of Tokyo’s approach to innovation. Located in Setagaya City in western Tokyo, the neighbourhood known as “Shimokita” is famous as a hub for Tokyo counterculture. Walk its narrow streets lined with vintage stores, curry restaurants, and avant-garde theatres and you swear you’ve travelled back in time to Japan’s version of Greenwich Village in the 1960s. All the buildings in Shimokita are limited to two-storeys and the residents are painters, musicians, eclectic curators of the fringe. In 2003, it was announced that a part of the Odakyu Line in Shimokita would be redeveloped to run underground to make way for a new road. Members of the community protested and after years of deliberation, the land that was vacated by trains in front of Shimokitazawa Station was repurposed as Mikan Shimokita, a shopping and restaurant complex that blends into the distinct character of the neighbourhood rather than paving it over with indistinct concrete. To Shimokita’s residents, a city without character is not a city worth improving.

Shibuya Crossing often sees upwards of 3,000 people crossing the street at once.

Shinbashi abounds with izakaya frequented by business workers after hours.

FamilyMart is one of the leading konbini brands across Japan.

The Kaizen Way

In the years following World War II, American economists and engineers such as W. Edwards Deming brought their industrial strategies to scale up Japanese production. Taiichi Ohno, an industrial engineer working for Toyota, took the American ideas and synthesized them with a uniquely Japanese approach to business and work. The result was the Toyota Production System, which became famous in the 1980s and 1990s as Japanese manufacturers led the world in automobile production. A key to Toyota’s success: kaizen. Kaizen literally means “good change” or “improvement” and “is Japanese people’s approach to everything,” says Shin Kawai. Kaizen applies to cities as well as cars. The greatest demonstration of kaizen in Tokyo is the local subway system, which services eight million passengers per day and comprises 282 stations and 13 lines running over 186 mi / 300 km. However, the subway is only a part of Tokyo’s rail transit line, which features 992 stations and has 40 million daily fares. In Tokyo, you can get anywhere by train. And the system is constantly being expanded and updated, with construction taking place underground, as it did in Shimokita, so as not to interfere with the daily lives of Tokyoites. Konbini are the other ever-present reminder of kaizen in daily life in Tokyo. Japan introduced convenience stores in the 1970s, including local brands such as FamilyMart and Lawson, and popular American chains such as 7-Eleven. They are open 24/7 and offer an assortment of goods at affordable prices, but that’s where the comparisons to their Western counterparts end. Konbini are exceptionally clean, bright, and well stocked. And the goods they sell are not second rate. You can find curated bento lunches at konbini, as well as gourmet snacks such as onigiri (Japanese rice balls) and fried chicken. The late chef and food guru Anthony Bourdain even famously stated that Lawson’s egg salad sandwiches were one of his favourite snacks in the whole world. In Tokyo, even a simple convenience store snack is worth making great.

The Centre of the Culinary World

The first time Christine Ji saw Tokyo in person, it felt almost familiar. On the night time car ride from Haneda Airport to her hotel in Shinjuku, she felt like she was passing through an alternate version of her hometown of Shanghai. “It was crowded and busy and there were lots of neon lights and large buildings,” she tells me over the phone. “I even recognized some of the characters on store signs [Japanese kanji is originally based on Chinese characters]. It felt like home.” But she soon realized that Tokyo was a very different place with its own astounding appeal. Christine’s work as a travel professional at Goway had led her to countless cities around the world. But in Tokyo, she was experiencing a city that operated more efficiently than she had ever experienced before. The attention to detail extended to the food and service.

The Japanese treat each service as an artform to be perfected over a lifetime. “I went alone to a restaurant to order a traditional breakfast and was immediately struck by what I experienced. The moment when I sat down, there was a tiny yellow flower sitting on my table, a perfect little decoration. Later on, I took a photo of every dish they brought out, even the decorations, the covers, the chopsticks. There were delicate letters on the leaves holding the fish. They work with such detail and so hard at everything they do. It made me very happy to see.” In Tokyo, no detail is too small to ignore. When you eat in celebrated restaurants in other cities in the world, Tokyo’s culinary influence looms large. In world-renowned restaurants in Hong Kong, Singapore, Paris, New York, set menus brag about “Japanese-influenced” ingredients, “Japanese-bred wagyu beef,” “Japanese-inspired” cooking styles. Japan has supplanted France as the global standard, and Tokyo is the centre of this culinary titan. Tokyo has 200 Michelin-starred restaurants, the most of any city in the world. But the delights of its culinary culture are not limited to fine dining. Head to the restaurants and stalls of the Tsukiji Outer Market, former home of the famous fish auction, and you’ll spot long lines of foreign visitors waiting to purchase world-famous tamago sando (egg sandwiches) at local stalls. Descend to Ramen Street on the bottom floor of Tokyo Station and you can feast on some of the world’s best shoyu or miso ramen while dozens of trains move thousands of people a few floors above you. Tokyo’s culinary diversity knows no bounds. “It’s the variety, the street food scene, the konbini experience,” says Shin Kawai. “You can spend five dollars and get a very satisfactory food experience in Tokyo. And you can also spend thousands of dollars. And that still has value in it.” I ask Kawai-san why Tokyo is able to stay at the cutting edge of the global food scene and he has a very simple answer: “Japanese people are extremely fussy about food. In order to survive in Tokyo as a restaurant, they have to keep inventing something new. First they have to serve something extremely tasty, and then they have to keep creating something that will continue to attract people.” Even Tokyo’s culinary scene is tied to endurance, its innovation essential to its survival.

The Omotenashi Spirit

All the industriousness of Tokyo wouldn’t mean a thing if the people who lived there didn’t support one another. The citizens of many global metropolises like to act as if their resilience is born from their indifference towards their fellow citizens. Tokyoites are resilient, but they understand that caring for your neighbours is essential to a good life in a big city.

Tokyo has over 10,000 ramen restaurants, many of them owned and operated by a single chef.

“When people visit Japan and Tokyo and come back [to North America], I ask them, ‘So what did you like about Tokyo?’ and most people say, ‘Oh, I loved the people there.’ That’s the first thing they mention,” says Shin Kawai. “In Japan, we have the Shikoku pilgrimage route,” a traditional series of walking trails along the island of Shikoku, which connects to 88 temples associated with the venerated Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi. “There’s a tradition of local people who help those pilgrims when they pass their houses. They offer water and food and sometimes, if really necessary, lodging. So that omotenashi spirit goes a long way back in history.” Stroll through the traditional neighbourhoods of Ueno or Yanaka and you’ll notice this omotenashi spirit animates the people you meet in Meiji-era gardens, local grocers, and temple grounds. But it’s most alive where there is food. Food is the window into a culture, as Shin Kawai reminds me, and it’s over food that people unite despite their differences in language, class, ethnicity. The spirit is alive in the food stalls and cramped beer stands of Shinbashi, where you can feast on kushiyaki (grilled skewers) and cold beer alongside salarymen and visitors from Australia, Korea, Italy as trains run overhead. It’s alive in the stalls, shops, and bars of gritty Ameyoko, which grew out of the black markets that kept Tokyo fed during the scarce postwar years. It’s alive in a small ramen restaurant I visit in Chiyoda, where the older chef and owner, on the verge of retirement, mans a massive pot of broth and serves a small assortment of dedicated patrons alongside his wife. It’s alive in the good food, good drinks, the care of the chef and the awe of his patrons, the slurp of noodles, the smiles after finishing the last drop of broth, the laugh over a joke that speaks across languages and cultures, when two people from opposite sides of the world can unite in a shared moment and meal. It’s all about the little things in Tokyo. And the big things. A hundred years ago, the city was brought low and it stood back up, again and again. The city, like the omotenashi spirit of its people, was not broken. It rebuilt. It improved. It endures. Top left: Ueno Station lies on the eastern edge of one of the largest parks in Tokyo. Bottom left: Ameyoko Shopping District is a great place to buy everything from street food to souvenirs to clothing. Middle: “Yaki” means “grill” and “tori” means “chicken.” Thus, yakitori is literally “grilled chicken.”

I need Switzerland. Aletsch Glacier, Valais

Schynige Platte, Berne

Grand Train Tour of Switzerland. Discover all the sights and landmarks Switzerland has to offer from the comfort of the train. The Grand Train Tour of Switzerland merges the most beautiful panoramic lines into one unique route.

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Lucerne, Lucerne

Zermatt, Valais

Interview with Chef Curtis Stone The celebrity chef and globetrotter shares how travel defines his culinary world. WORDS MITCHELL FAWCETT

Curtis Stone is an internationally-known chef, author, entrepreneur, and TV personality. Hailing from Australia, he now oversees a culinary empire from California. His journeys across diverse cultures and cuisines have shaped his culinary philosophy. His expertise is intricately woven with his extensive travels, blending flavours and techniques from around the world.

In what way does your cooking stay true to your Australian roots?

Smack dab in the middle of the ocean, Australia is multicultural, and it shows in the food. Chefs in Oz are influenced by the many cultures and ingredients around them. I like to keep my food simple, using seasonal ingredients but experimenting with different flavouring agents and ingredients I find on my travels.

Tell us about a trip that had a profound impact on your culinary philosophy.

I was in my early 20s when a mate and I took a trip to Europe. We travelled everywhere and when I ran out of money, I found myself in London. I had just read White Heat by Marco Pierre White and I was desperate to work for him. The day I knocked on the door, the chef had just fired someone, so he gave me a chance. I worked with Marco for eight years, doing everything from peeling potatoes to finding myself helming the kitchen at Quo Vadis. My approach to cooking was born from a knock on that English door.

Australia’s national dish is, of course, roast lamb. What’s another favourite national dish you’ve discovered in your travels?

The connection between identity and cuisine is fascinating to me. People take pride in their national cuisines. Pot au

feu is a national dish in France, but not something you see made much anymore. It’s something your gran would make. But I love all dishes that have come to symbolize a culture and cuisine, from ramen in Japan, to mole in Oaxaca, and tapas in Spain.

What’s the most underrated culinary destination you’ve visited, and what did you learn there?

With the devastating fires, Hawaii has been on my mind. We filmed my show Field Trip with Curtis Stone there back in 2019. There is a convergence of cultures on the islands with so many culinary influences—from Japanese to Filipino. The people who live there are stewards of the land and honour the ingredients. We went spearfishing with a guy who is a fireman by day and a champion diver on the side. His brother breeds Berkshire pigs, while promoting sustainability. Their uncle makes award-winning poke. Family is a priority, gathering around food.

What’s the most treasured ingredient you’ve ever purchased abroad?

In Hong Kong, I was able to get my hands on some dried abalone. Des Voeux Road West is a whole street devoted to dried seafood, known as hoi mei. Sea cucumber, fish maw, and abalone are delicacies and the abalone cost more than truffles.

What advice would you give to at-home chefs who want to broaden their culinary horizons through travel? Just get off the couch and do it. There is no greater teacher than travel. You don’t have to stay in fancy hotels or dine in Michelin-starred restaurants, you just have to get there. Travel is the best culinary school you can attend.

Your flagship restaurant in Beverly Hills, Maude, focuses on Southern California cuisine. What does this region do better than anywhere else?

The Central Valley of California, just a few hours north, grows most of the fresh produce this country consumes. It’s like having the world’s best and largest backyard garden. Fresh and hyper-seasonal ingredients are what California cuisine is all about. We also get amazing seafood off the coast of Santa Barbara, all the way up to Monterrey Bay. We try not to intervene too much and let the flavours speak for themselves.

When you are planning a trip, how do you research and plan the best, authentic culinary experiences?

First, I ask for recommendations from my chef friends. I was recently filming in Hong Kong and I wanted to take the crew out for Peking duck. I texted [celebrity chef] Andrew Zimmern who sent me a list with everything from high-end restaurants to little noodle shops. Next, ask the locals. They know all the secret neighbourhood gems tucked away that serve delicious food without the flash.

Where is your next big trip, and what are you most looking forward to experiencing there?

I’ve been in the South of France this summer with Lindsay and the boys, my mom and stepfather, and my mother-in-law and brother-in-law. We’re then headed to Majorca. Linds and I celebrated our tenth wedding anniversary earlier in the summer and we really wanted a bit of a reunion with our family and to be able to show our boys where it all began for us. 57

Surprised by Arabia How the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is challenging misconceptions.

Brittany exploring the iconic Tomb of Lihyan, son of Kuza, in the Nabataean settlement of Hegra.

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY BRITTANY BANKS 58

To most people in the west, the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is not on the tourist radar. It wasn’t on my own radar, but that didn’t stop me from visiting it this past spring. Here I was, a single female traveller, blonde haired and blue eyed, travelling through the seaside city of Jeddah, the holy city of Madinah, the desert oasis of AlUla, past the sandstone formations of Tabuk, and finally to the capital of Riyadh. I didn’t look like the typical traveller to Saudi Arabia. And that’s exactly the point. People’s conception of Saudi Arabia and its reality don’t match up. Saudi Arabia surprised me. It shattered some of my popular misconceptions about life in this Middle Eastern kingdom.

Misconception 1: It’s not safe, especially as a solo female traveller. When I first told people I was travelling to Saudi Arabia on my own, I was met with surprise and blank stares followed by passionate exclamations: “You need a male chaperone! Is it even safe?” Yes, Saudi Arabia is a patriarchal country, but it’s also very safe, especially for women, who don’t need a male chaperone. I will never forget what my Dutch colleague who lives in Jeddah said: he would feel much more comfortable having his wife out alone at night in Jeddah than he would in Amsterdam. Night or day, I always felt safe, comfortable, and welcomed everywhere I went. At one small restaurant, one of the male employees heard me mention baklava and five minutes later we had free baklava offered to us. Later, I stopped at the Maraya concert hall in AlUla, which happens to be the largest mirrored building on earth, only to find out that it was closed. After a quick chat with the security guards, they gave us a private look at the auditorium. People are friendly here, even to a solo female traveller.

Misconception 2: Women need to cover up like ninjas. It’s culturally appropriate to wear head coverings and long robes that cover a woman’s body, but it’s not the law…anymore. If you visit any Muslim country, you will see women wearing all different types of coverings from the basic abaya to the more conservative burqa. Abayas are a popular choice in Saudi and a celebrated part of Saudi culture and heritage, like the

Elephant Rock in AlUla is named for the distinctive rock arch that looks like an elephant’s nose.

Brittany sharing chicken kabsa and other traditional dishes with her guide in Riyadh.

kimono is in Japan. I wore an abaya while visiting Madinah, as it’s culturally expected in this holy city. But I didn’t have to wear it anywhere else. Women can wear loose fitting pants or long skirts and longsleeved shirts in major cities and wear basically whatever they feel comfortable wearing in AlUla and the desert.

Misconception 3: Saudi culture will never change. Saudi Arabia is quickly transforming due to Vision 2030, which prioritizes modernization, economic diversification, and inclusivity, including the empowerment of women. This was apparent from the moment I arrived at the airport in Jeddah. Almost everyone working customs and immigration were women. I had female guides, female front desk staff, and I even saw female police officers in AlUla. Women have been permitted to work without a guardian’s consent since 2017, and the Vision has also allowed women to drive, divorce, and travel abroad. Now, there is still segregation at certain venues, such as I witnessed at some 60

restaurants, which have separate eating areas for men and families. So you still get glimpses of old Saudi conventions here, but they’re not the law. Respecting such conventions is a part of visiting a country where tradition runs strong. For me, the only restriction I dealt with while travelling was not having a cocktail at sunset, as alcohol is illegal. A small price to pay, and one made easier by the delicious mocktails offered everywhere.

Misconception 4: Saudi Arabia is only for Muslim pilgrims. I was expecting to experience a destination that was only for Muslim pilgrims heading on the Hajj or trailblazers who wanted to brag about travelling beyond the tourist trail. My expectations were off. Saudi Arabia has a well developed infrastructure for tourism, which caters to a lot of travel interests. People speak English. The food is fantastic, offering a variety of different types of Arab dishes plus tons of international options at different price points, including more American fast food chains than I’ve

ever seen before. There’s fresh caught fish from the Red Sea, delicious quinoa tabouli, incredible kabsa (a chicken and rice dish). I even liked the popular camel stew. And exceptional Arabic coffee and dates are staples found everywhere. You can discover historic landmarks, including Hegra and other Nabataean archaeological sites. You should visit these spots before the mass tourism crowds arrive. I visited in the off-season and basically had the sites to myself. But it won’t be this way for long. Eventually, there will be many travellers snorkelling the Red Sea, exploring the old town of Al Balad in Jeddah, and learning about the rich traditions of this nation. And like me, these travellers will find their misconceptions challenged and their understanding of the world broadened. Soon enough, Saudi Arabia will surprise them. To learn more about Saudi Arabia, please visit visitsaudi.com.

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You’ll find roast goose famously hanging in restaurant windows throughout Hong Kong.

Always Get The Goose Rediscovering Hong Kong’s culinary diversity. WORDS AMELIA CHEE

Every time I go back to Hong Kong, I order roast goose. It’s the unofficial dish of the city, a savoury, succulent feast of goodness with that crispy, melt-in-your-mouth skin that’s perfect on rice, with noodles, or in soup. The last time I was in Hong Kong, I met a friend to share this iconic dish. It was so big, we couldn’t finish it. Yet the moment I left Hong Kong, I began counting down the days until I could savour its taste once again. That’s how good it is. But the culinary diversity of Hong Kong does not stop with roast goose. This is a big, bustling city of almost 7.5 million people in 426 square miles / 1,100 square kilometers. Every single one of these 7.5 million people is fuelled by a culinary culture that’s the envy of the world. In Hong Kong, around every corner and on every street lies a restaurant or café inviting you to try something new, enjoy an old favourite, or stop for a moment and bask in the opportunities of such a big, dense, diverse space. 62

From the Heart

No food defines Hong Kong quite like dim sum. It literally means “touch the heart” in Cantonese, so think of it as Hongkonger soul food. You’ll find dim sum everywhere across Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. Dim Sum is all about community; it’s meant to be shared. Go with fellow travellers or local friends, order two to three dishes per person, and savour the food over boisterous conversation and hot tea. Head to a teahouse for the quintessential yum cha experience, the Hongkonger version of brunch, where you can enjoy tea and the boundless variety of dim sum dishes. But there is no limit to what dim sum is in Hong Kong, from classics like shumai (minced pork dumplings), har gow (shrimp dumplings) and char siu bao (pork buns) to more modern innovations like abalone puffs and indulgent lobster bao.

Living the Star Life

Michelin ratings do not define a destination’s culinary impact, but they do showcase just how influential and innovative a culinary scene can be. In Hong Kong, there are 78 Michelin-starred restaurants offering fine dining that rivals any other city in the world. And you’ll find far more than Cantonese food here. Hong Kong bursts with culinary diversity, with exceptional restaurants serving food from all over the world. You can indulge your way through a 10-course prix fixe menu of French cuisine in an elegant, seventh-floor dining room with floor-to-ceiling windows showing the city below. Alternatively, dig into octopus tostadas and Andean vegetable salad in a friendly, down-to-earth environment. In Hong Kong, fine dining is as diverse as its citizens.

Café Culture

Just because Hong Kong dresses up well doesn’t mean it’s a place where appearances are all that matter. Dispense with pretense and hit up traditional cafés and food stalls to embrace the city’s culinary roots. Squeeze past fellow diners in tiny coffee shops, plop down on wooden stools, and enjoy traditional Cantonese favourites. Grab a milk tea and explore night markets and shopping malls to try delectable snacks, from bolo bao (pineapple buns) to fish balls in curry, lau po bing (wife cakes) to egg tarts, which have a smooth, glossy finish that is distinct from the Portuguese-influenced tarts of Macau. And, never, ever forget to order the roast goose. Every time I’m in Hong Kong, I have roast goose, and so much more. And the moment I leave, the memories of those lingering, exceptional flavours always make me want to return. Octopus tostadas showcase Mexican fusion.

Arbor boasts two Michelin stars and an executive chef hailing from Finland.

Local food production is reducing reliance on imports.

To Act with Mālama: 5 Meaningful Ways to Connect with Hawaiian Culture WORDS JILL ROBINSON

When I’m in the Hawaiian Islands, I spend part of my time participating in cultural experiences and volunteering opportunities centred around mālama. The word, meaning to “care for,” highlights one of the things that makes the destination special—the interconnected relationship between people and nature. While you exercise mālama for Maui residents as they rebuild their lives after the devastating August wildfires, try these activities for a deeper Hawaiian cultural connection.

PHOTOGRAPHY COMMON GROUND

Oahu

According to the Kumulipo—the Hawaiian creation chant— the kalo (taro) plant is a sacred connection to the ancestors, and all Hawaiians trace their roots back to it. It’s also one of the canoe plants, which are the plants the first Polynesians brought with them in their canoes when settling the Hawaiian Islands. On volunteer Saturdays, immerse yourself in the rich tradition of this original canoe plant at Hoʻokuaʻāina, a loʻi (kalo farm) that uses ancient traditions of cultivation to improve the lives of today’s youth and build a healthy

community. The work in the kalo field can get muddy, but when you’re done, you’ll understand why kalo is treated with great respect.

Additionally, there are twice-monthly volunteer opportunities to plant trees, collect native seeds, and propagate plants.

Walled, coastal fishponds are a unique and advanced form of Hawaiian aquaculture found nowhere else in the world, providing Hawaiians with a regular supply of fish regardless of ocean conditions. Built nearly 800 years ago, the Heʻeia Fishpond encloses 88 acres of water and measures 1.3 mi / 2 km long. Volunteer workdays with Paepae o Heʻeia (2nd and 4th Saturdays of the month) give visitors the chance to help with restoration tasks, like moving rock and coral, removing invasive mangrove and seaweed, and picking up trash.

With a goal of building the farm of the future, Common Ground’s 83-acre agricultural campus is part of the growing movement to increase local food production, breaking the reliance on imported food. The organization offers a twice-weekly (Thursday and Friday) farm and food experience to showcase and taste fruit and vegetables from their regenerative food forest, demonstrating a model for how food can be grown in harmony with nature, as well as 100% island sourced. Before you leave, buy some of the Hawaiian-made, high-quality products at the Common Ground Market to bring home.

Hawaiʻi

With an average annual rainfall of only 12 in / 30 cm, the Waikōloa Forest Preserve is one of the driest places in the Hawaiian archipelago and home to a very different assemblage of plant species—from the deciduous wiliwili tree to the shrub-like ʻōhai. Join the Waikōloa Dry Forest Initiative on their monthly huakaʻi (a travel experience with a defined purpose), where you can learn about the remnant lowland dry forest the non-profit is working to restore.

Kauaʻi

Help keep the beaches of Kauaʻi clean by being an ocean-friendly visitor. Surfrider Kauaʻi encourages packing reusable water bottles and bags, using only reef-friendly sunscreen, admiring wildlife from afar, and packing out everything you bring along for a beach day—or even helping pick up trash left behind by careless visitors. The organization also does a weekly Net Patrol cleanup, where all you need to do is show up and help.

Common Ground on Kaua’i showcases sustainable agricultural practices.

Common Ground Market sells locally-made Hawaiian products.

Visitors can dig in by planting trees, collecting native seeds, and propagating plants.

Karen Gibson’s group celebrating a birthday in Ghana.

A Birthday in the Motherland Ghana has a special significance for African American group travellers. WORDS JENNIFER MURRAY

“How about a birthday in the motherland?” That was the request that Karen Gibson of Travel Quest Network got one day from one of her clients in the Bay Area. Her client wanted to celebrate her 60th birthday alongside 20 of her closest friends and family. And she wanted to celebrate in Ghana. The West African nation is one of the most appealing destinations on the African continent. It sparkles with a dynamic music scene, fronted by AfroFuture, the yearly music festival that brings in name acts from across the continent. The capital Accra is a haven for West African food and home to one of the best shopping scenes in the region. Ghana is also one of the stablest democracies in Africa and caters to any travellers who want to see exotic wildlife or have cultural encounters in a safe and secure destination. But it’s also a nation that offers a haunting reminder of past tragedy. While Ghana was the first sub-Saharan Black African nation to gain independence from European colonial rule, it was also a 66

lynchpin of the transatlantic slave trade. For hundreds of years, British slavers used Ghana as their base, swapping manufactured goods for kidnapped Africans who they would ship across the ocean to the American colonies. Today, many African Americans trace their lineage back to Ghana to the slave castles of Elmina and Cape Coast or the infamous Slave River of Donkor Nsuo. Ghana is the motherland, the place of their origin, but it’s also the site of their family’s past tragedy. It’s a place of celebration but also sombre remembrance. Karen worked with Goway to plan her client’s customized group trip to Ghana. Her client got to the motherland on her birthday, where she celebrated on Bojo Beach just outside Accra. “We had drums, a saxophone player, and Ghanaian dancers. We danced, drank cocktails and wine, and partied on the beach. It was a celebratory day.” The trip was full of encounters with Ghana’s colourful culture, including the astounding craftsmanship of local “pots, stools, textiles, jewel carvings, and masks.”

The group feasted on the cuisine buoyed by fresh seafood and fruit. “Our hotel restaurant in Elmina Bay prepared delicious lobsters and shrimp with rice and plantains,” Karen recalled. “It was one of many great meals in Ghana.” But the trip also proved to be a profound experience. Karen’s group reacted with “Mixed emotions based on our excursions. They were both joyful and sad and emotional at times,” reacting to the enormity of their surroundings and the historical landmarks, which stand as beautiful works of architecture, but also constant reminders of the past injustices of the slave trade. The impact of meeting “proud and warm-spirited Ghanaians” would stay with Karen’s group long after their trip, but so too would the impact of their sightseeing. Hundreds of years ago, a relationship with the motherland was stolen from their ancestors. This trip reforged that relationship and rekindled the flame that was feared extinguished.

Fresh produce abounds in Ghana.

The Elmina Fish Market is bustling with commerce.

Rarotonga, Cook Islands.

Discover an Unspoiled Natural Paradise in the Cook Islands Five things to know about this gem in the South Pacific. WORDS ANTHONY SABA PHOTOGRAPHY COOK ISLANDS TOURISM

Imagine a place where you can enjoy unspoiled natural beauty and wide-open beaches without the crowds. It’s a place where the waters are bluer than the richest sapphire and the beaches whiter than coconut flakes. It shares the same time zone as Hawaii, is northeast of New Zealand, and a bit west of the island of Tahiti. It’s the Cook Islands, and it offers an ideal escape for travellers looking to enjoy an authentic island experience. In the Cooks, you won’t find high-rise hotels or crowded beaches. Rather, you’ll find affordable lagoon-side resorts with all the modern conveniences, friendly 68

locals, and everything within easy reach. You can connect from the plane to the beach in no time and explore the islands and waters at your own leisurely pace. 1. Everything is close by. In the Cooks, there are restaurants to your left, cafés to your right, and beach bars just a few steps down the sands. Gift shops and galleries and convenience stores dot the ocean-side roads. It takes only a few minutes to connect from the airport to your resort. And most importantly, the water is always close by.

2. There are no distractions. Perhaps the most famous fact about the Cook Islands is that according to local law, no building can be built taller than a coconut tree. There are no high-rise hotels to clutter the skyline, no traffic lights or stop signs to break the natural flow. You move to a slower rhythm here and experience life free of distraction. 3. There aren’t many locals. Only 16,000 people live here, mostly Cook Islands Māori people, who are eager to share their history, chat at local markets, and show off their impressive skills at drumming and dancing. Everyone

“

You’ll find many suitable accommodation options if you want to call the Cooks home for several weeks or months at a time. A long-stay is a great way to immerse yourself in the local, laid back culture.

“

-Bob Bourdon,

Goway Destination Specialist

you meet in the Cooks is a potential friend, which is reflected in the universal greeting: kia orana, Māori for “hello,” which literally translates as “may you live a long and healthy life.” 4. It’s home to the world’s most beautiful lagoon. A 45-minute flight north of Rarotonga, Aitutaki is a small island known by many as the world’s most beautiful lagoon. The waters are soft and blue, the sands impossibly white. Coconut trees line the powdery sands and picturesque islets dot the shimmering waters. Pictures don’t do it justice, even if it is the quintessential

postcard image of a South Pacific paradise. You have to stroll its sands, wade through its waters, for yourself. 5. It’s closer than you think. It only takes six hours to fly from Honolulu to Rarotonga with Hawaiian Airlines. And you can connect to Honolulu from 15 American gateway cities across the mainland. That means it’s only a little bit further than Hawaii to get to this little paradise. The Cook Islands is also an attractive long-stay destination for travellers who want to escape the North American winter for several weeks or months at a time.

Life moves to a different rhythm in the Cook Islands. It dances to a different beat, and we don’t just mean the beat of a Polynesian drum, which is infectious. There’s no rush in the Cooks, no city pace, no rat race. Life moves to island time here, and if you set your internal clock to this mysterious tempo, so many of the world’s worries will simply melt away. The Cook Islands is a tropical paradise where you can relax, rejuvenate, and fill your cup with the beauty of its unspoiled natural surroundings and the warmth of its people.

New Ways of Visiting Cusco & Machu Picchu Taking the time to learn about Quechua culture before you go to Machu Picchu gives you a much deeper understanding of the people who built such a magnificent place. WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY HEATHER JASPER

Machu Picchu, Peru.

Since Machu Picchu was designated one of the New 7 Wonders of the World in 2007, tours have focused on archeology and history. What I didn’t realize before I started travelling around Peru in 2013 is how much Inca culture is alive and well today, throughout the Cusco region. Even before you arrive in Peru, your first introduction to Inca culture is likely the Quechua language. This is what the Inca spoke, and it’s still spoken by over three million Peruvians. The name Machu Picchu is Quechua: “machu” means “old” and “picchu” means “mountain.” The Inca’s linguistic influence still exists as far north 70

as Pasto in Colombia and as far south as Puente del Inca in Argentina. In Peru, you’ll often hear Quechua words used for names of people, places, food, and clothes. Once you arrive in Cusco, make sure that your guide speaks Quechua. That way, they’ll be able to translate the names of important places and foods for you. Even more importantly, they’ll be able to translate for you in rural communities. That’s really the key for understanding how Incan culture has survived with the modern Quechua people today.

There are several great places to learn about Quechua culture, some right in Cusco and others farther afield. In town, visit the Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco to learn about weaving, which was the most important art form for the Inca. The finely woven clothes found on Incan mummies aren’t that different from the highest quality alpaca and vicuña wool garments you’ll see today. The textile centre has a second location in the nearby village of Chinchero. Less than half an hour from Cusco, on the road to Pisac, is Awana Kancha, where you can see llamas and alpacas

up close. This is the best place to hand feed South American camelids. You are not allowed to approach the llamas that graze at Machu Picchu, but at Awana Kancha it’s encouraged. Llamas were the beasts of burden for the Inca, carrying crops and goods up and over the highest mountains in the Andes. Most clothes and weavings you’ll see are made with alpaca wool, which is lighter and warmer than sheep’s wool. The best place to learn what the Inca ate is the Parque de la Papa, near the town Pisac and only an hour from Cusco. You’ll be greeted with music by local musicians

who play traditional Andean instruments like flutes, drums and a conch shell made into a horn, called a pututu. The villages that make up Parque de la Papa proudly cultivate over a thousand varieties of potato, conserving the most important Incan crop. Learn about medicinal herbs and enjoy lunch made with only Andean ingredients like quinoa, corn and, of course, potatoes. The more I learn about Quechua culture, the easier it is for me to imagine Machu Picchu as a bustling town. I know what people wore as they walked through the narrow passageways. I can picture the

llamas carrying loads of potatoes or alpaca wool along the terraces. The music they played echoes through the canyon, and I can almost smell their cooking when I walk through the homes in the residential area. The Inca weren’t just strong enough to conquer most of South America, their culture is strong enough to survive to today. Top: Heather showing off the highquality textiles of a local weaver. Bottom: Flutes and drums are ubiquitous in Indigenous Andean music.

Citizen Science in the “Engine Room” of the World How travel and science intersect on an Antarctic cruise with Ocean Endeavour. WORDS ROBERT MILLER PHOTOGRAPHY CHIMU ADVENTURES

Ocean Endeavour moored off the coast of the Antarctic Peninsula.

An afternoon spent kayaking is a great way to get around and see the sights on an Antarctic expedition.

The Polar regions are the “engine rooms” of the world, according to Emily Gregory, the Citizen Scientist Coordinator aboard Ocean Endeavour. These regions are where ocean currents and global climate patterns are determined by massive landscapes of ice and water with no permanent human habitation. The largest of the polar regions, Antarctica is a landscape of otherworldly beauty and a destination where travellers have the opportunity to support scientific efforts that are essential to directing global environmental policy. Ocean Endeavour is a polar expedition vessel that operates cruises to the Antarctic Peninsula and the South Shetland Islands, taking up to 200 passengers on life-changing voyages across the Drake Passage. It also has a crew of expert scientists aboard, who use these expeditions to gather data about the region. A Marine Ecologist by trade, Emily thrills at the uniqueness of every trip she takes to Antarctica with Ocean Endeavour. “Sometimes you get to experience the extremes and harshness of the weather in a continent so isolated from the rest of the world,” she says. “Other times, you’re privileged to see and experience the huge extent of life this vast and productive Southern Ocean is capable of supporting, like mass feeding events of fin whales or a coordinated hunt from orca pods preying on seals.” As Citizen Scientist Coordinator, Emily helps travellers contribute to “scientific research, data collection, analyses, and experiments” in Antarctica. To be a Citizen Scientist, “there’s no need to be an expert in the field or have a background understanding of the topic.” Rather, a curiosity and desire to help is the only prerequisite for travellers taking part in Citizen Scientist programs aboard Ocean Endeavour.

These programs vary each expedition, as every excursion in Antarctica is dependent on environmental conditions. Some projects have travellers “collecting samples from the weather to the flora and fauna in Antarctica. In certain locations we’ll stop to sample phytoplankton for Secchi Study and Fjord Phyto,” which helps measure turbidity and map the diversity of microscopic species in the surface waters. Other times, Citizen Scientists will collect photo data of species in Antarctica, including seals, dolphins, and whales for the Happy Whale platform, as well as Southern Ocean seabirds for eBird. Citizen Scientists even share cloud cover data to help NASA align their weather patterns. This work is essential to polar research and policy. For one, it’s cost efficient compared to traditional scientific expeditions. It also captures data sets that are essential for creating environmental policy for the fastest warming region in the Southern Hemisphere. The work has also created tangible policy results. For instance, Citizen Scientist data contributed to the “implementation of the largest ship strike risk reduction plan for an area of 2,000 square-kilometres in the Antarctic Peninsula,” which has helped protect whale species. “This is one of many examples of how long-term datasets can provide valuable information for how these ecosystems are being used and where best we can focus our initial efforts to protect this critical environment and its inhabitants.” In this engine room of the world, the work of Citizen Scientists aboard Ocean Endeavour contributes to the region’s preservation, while also providing life-changing travel experiences in one of the most hauntingly beautiful regions of the world.

Uluru Invites You to See Red Tradition is timeless at the world’s most famous rock.

Wintjiri Wiru at Uluru, Australia.

WORDS CHRISTIAN BAINES

If you’ve only seen Uluru in pictures, or on a long-ago trip, it’s time to put the world’s most iconic rock on your itinerary. More than just one of the best things to see in Australia, Uluru is the heart of this ancient land, held sacred by Australia’s Aboriginal people, including the Anangu, who still care for the site today. To the world’s oldest living culture, Uluru is a crossroads between ivara, the sacred paths that carry the memories of demigods across Australia. After dark, those memories come to life in a vivid fusion of light, colour, and storytelling. In a laser and light show delivered by over 1,100 drones, Wintjiri Wiru (Pitjantjatjara for “beautiful view out to the horizon”) tells the ancient story of the Mala people, the devil-dog Kurpany, and the kingfisher woman Luunpa, whose warnings the Mala refused to heed. It’s a seamless fusion of past and future, as the desert’s glowing sunset fades and this Anangu tale passed down through generations comes to life over the timeless rock.

PHOTOGRAPHY VOYAGES

Uluru, the nearby domes of Kata Tjuta, and the surrounding desert have long been known for their spectacular colours, particularly at sunrise or sunset, when the rock glows pink and orange in the changing light. More recently, the desert has come to life after dark in Tili Wiru Tjuta Nyakutjaku (looking at lots of beautiful lights) or Field of Light, a spectacular installation of 50,000 lights by artist Bruce Munro. Of course, Uluru came to life long before visitors began flocking to see it. The ancient rock is a nonstop hub of natural and spiritual activity, from Australia’s most beloved native animals, to the spirits of Anangu ancestors, and even unexplained weather phenomena. Why in the height of the dry season do the rains fall on Uluru and Uluru alone, and how do the Anangu manage to predict such rains with such accuracy? These are questions best answered on a guided walk around the base of Uluru, or through the gorges of Kata Tjuta. This is by far the best way to discover the

stories and sacred places that define the region in Aboriginal culture (and define that culture in turn). You might hear different versions of the same tales, as various nations and tribes have their own version of Uluru’s story. But all agree on the sacred significance of this unique place. The Uluru climb was permanently closed in 2019, allowing traditional beliefs to be respected while keeping visitors safe and allowing them to enjoy a much more satisfying look at Uluru. Perhaps the ultimate view takes in an Uluru sunset before a Sounds of Silence dinner (best enjoyed with a glass of bubbly in hand). A digeridoo performance and a guided tour of the southern night sky accompany the three-course bush tucker inspired buffet, inviting you to taste the region’s heritage while taking in the beauty of Uluru and Kata Tjuta. From sunrise to sunset and beyond, there’s never been a better way to see red.

Qatar Fragrances of

A journey into the Middle East yields a delightful sensory experience.

WORDS MITCHELL FAWCETT ILLUSTRATION LAKSHAY KHANDELWAL

Qatar smells great. I knew my first journey to the Middle East was going to be full of delights, and this was one of the first I experienced. Doha’s Hamad International Airport has its own signature scent that greets me as I walk through its terminals. It’s fresh and invigorating—just what I need after a 14-hour flight. I can tell that Qatar knows the value of a first impression. Fragrance in Qatar is more than just an accessory—it is an essential facet of cultural heritage and identity. Classic European perfumes are coveted here like many luxuries of the Western world. Their influence is clear, but Arab culture has its own inventions and innovations that have shaped the world of fragrance for hundreds of years. The Middle East is renowned for its generosity. Every action is guided by karam, the ancient art of hospitality. I ask the concierge at The Ned Hotel Doha why the lobby smells so good. He says that it’s to create a pleasant and welcoming atmosphere for guests. He adds that it’s not just luxury hotels making this gesture. Qataris take great care to make their homes smell beautiful for their guests—just as much an act of generosity as a home-cooked meal. This is traditionally done with bokhoor,

wood chips soaked in perfume oil and burned. Especially magnanimous hosts will even offer a tray of perfumes just for guests. Locals take their own personal fragrance especially seriously. A daily ritual includes scented balms and lotions, oils dabbed on the neck and wrists, and finishing sprays to envelop the hair and clothes. Both men and women practice this with pride, and many scent profiles are considered unisex. Traditional Qatari dress is not meant to express individuality, but you can certainly make a statement with your own fragrance story. Different scents are layered with intention to create unique aromatic profiles. Rarely will someone stick to the same scent combination. Each day is a blank canvas. Oud is by far the most prolific scent in the region. I know an interpretation of it well from Tom Ford’s famous Oud Wood cologne, so I’m excited to set out and experience the real thing. My first stop is Qatar’s best-known market, Souq Waqif. Roaming these winding streets is a fragrant journey itself as I pass spice vendors and walk through clouds of fruity tobacco from hookah

pipes. I lose count at 10 perfume shops before I take the leap and walk into a boutique called Al Awsaj. The shopkeeper, Jawhar, knows how to guide his customers as hundreds of nearly indistinguishable bottles and jars line the shelves. He’s delighted to show me a treasured piece of agarwood, the origin of oud in its purest form. It’s also the most expensive perfume ingredient in the world, gram-for-gram more expensive than gold. The odor is overwhelming—musky, earthy, and smoky. Its raw form of course smells much stronger than the elegantly finished product. Jawhar has plenty more to show me. The signature scents from this region are deep and complex: spicy sandalwood, sweet amber, pungent rosewood, earthy myrrh. There is an art to transforming these with contemporary Western scents— something today’s Qatari market craves. Jawhar shows me how grapefruit livens up amber’s musk. And even with its deep complexity, oud has been reimagined with passionfruit by the French perfume house Maison Crivelli. This is an art that feels as nuanced as winemaking. I know I need to trust the experts. Al Jazeera Perfumes is Qatar’s largest producer and brand.

They are not affiliated with the news network of the same name, although they have a substantial presence with almost 20 stores in Doha. Their stores are luxe and so are the products—some bottles easily cost hundreds of dollars. Their philosophy also lives in the sweet spot between modernity and tradition. They work with some of the biggest European perfumers to craft innovative collections. The fragrance Crazy in Love comes in a hot pink bottle, and smells of vanilla and saffron. The 2022 FIFA World Cup, undoubtedly the pride of the nation, even got its own officially licensed Al Jazeera Perfume. I learn that, apparently, the World Cup smells like Turkish rose, amber, vanilla, bergamot, and of course, oud. They say scent is the sense most closely tied to memory. My time in Qatar was a beautiful collection of moments defined by the aromas that surrounded them. At home in Canada, I’ll catch a hint of oud in the air and get instantly transported back to the Souq Waqif. Qatar was always going to be a memorable trip, but my exploration into their world of fragrance has made it truly unforgettable.

Island Rhapsody: An Ode to Tahiti’s Surf, Savour & Song A Polynesian paradise beckons, and it’s got more to offer than relaxation. WORDS ERIC HENDRIKX

PHOTOGRAPHY TAHITI TOURISME

The crystal-clear waters are home to more than 1,000 species of marine life.

In the cobalt heart of the South Pacific, The Islands of Tahiti sprawl in all their intoxicating glory—a provocative spread of lush landscapes and an ocean so blue it seems otherworldly. This place isn’t just another pretty face on a postcard. It’s a dynamic playground for the adventurous soul, a haven where the familiar turns astonishing in the form of thrilling waves, enigmatic depths, and a culture as vibrant as its sunsets. In this Polynesian paradise, life is synonymous with surf, savour, and song. The lure of the waves beckons surfers to the island’s sublime shores. French Polynesia is revered in surfing lore, its gnarly waves having welcomed icons like Laird Hamilton and Kelly Slater, who’ve grappled with Teahupo’o’s formidable swells. And let me tell you, nothing makes you feel more alive than the salty sting of the ocean, riding waves where ancient Polynesians once carved the narrative of surfing long before California even had a clue. With seasons and spots for the novice and the expert, one cannot help but feel a deep spiritual connection with the ocean. Yet, French Polynesia doesn’t stop at the water’s surface. Her seduction continues deeper, in the rich blue belly of the Pacific. Remember Jacques Cousteau, that legendary French explorer who fell head-over-flippers for these waters? Well, you can’t help but share his infatuation once you plunge into famed dive spots in the Society Islands, the archipelago of Captain Cook notoriety, including Tahiti, Moorea, and Bora Bora. Try a boat dive to Tiki Point, Moorea to check sharks—lemon sharks, grey reef sharks, black tips, and white tips—off your bucket list. Novice divers will love the shallower waters of The Spring on Tahiti, named for the freshwater bubbles fizzling out from an underwater reservoir beneath the reef that seems to attract sea turtles by the masses. And for a kaleidoscope of colourful biodiversity, visitors will love Canyons just south of the Tetiaroa atoll. And then there’s the music—a polyphonic seduction that sets your pulse dancing to the rhythm of the islands. I found myself at a local Heiva festival, a sensory overload where the vibrant ‘ote’a meets the soulful himene tarava. It’s not just about the beauty of spectacle, but letting your body move to primal rhythms, your heart echoing the beat of the pahu drum—a true testament to the idea that we are all connected in a harmonious nature. What would a visit to Tahiti be without diving fork-first into its culinary treasures? Sure, you’ve got your poisson cru, a love affair between fish, lime, and coconut— the heart and soul of Tahitian gastronomy. But then, at Papeete’s terraced Place Vai’ete, amidst the bustling food trucks, you meet the face of Tahiti’s culinary evolution. Try Chez Domingue for fresh tuna with fries and selections of raw fish and charred meats and veggies.

Officially known as French Polynesia, The Islands of Tahiti comprise not only Tahiti, but also other islands including Bora Bora, Moorea, and Raiatea.

The annual Heiva festival has celebrated the dance and music of the Polynesian Islands since 1881.

For an elevated restaurant experience, Arii Moana at Four Seasons Bora Bora features Mediterranean classics in a chic and lively waterside setting. At The Brando’s Les Mutinés on the exclusive atoll Tetiaroa, new experiences await as French chef Jean Imbert marries flavours of Polynesia with the classic techniques of France. In this sophisticated setting, each plate is a poem dedicated to the island’s culture and locally sourced ingredients, perfectly paired with wine from top chateaus in France.

The cuisine of Tahiti is known for its Polynesian influence with a touch of French flair.

So yes, Tahiti is pretty, it’s beautiful, but it’s so much more than that. It’s a surf-rider’s dream, a diver’s paradise, a music lover’s haven, and a gastronome’s El Dorado. It’s the stories, the people, the heritage, and the flavours—all woven into a living tapestry that pulls you in, inviting you to become a part of it. And that’s what travel is truly about, right? Not just seeing, but living, breathing, and tasting the adventure.

Stellenbosch, South Africa offers picture-perfect views from its abundant vineyards and cellar doors.

TRAVEL LIKE A GLOBETROTTER

Explore the World Through Wine Goway’s Senior Vice President Carolyn Weppler shares a trio of tasting experiences. WORDS CAROLYN WEPPLER

Wine offers a magnificent window into specific regions and cultures around the world. A trip centred on wine allows you to meet passionate locals, feast on farm-to-table meals, stay in gorgeous accommodations on farms or vineyards, and, of course, enjoy some of the world’s best wine. Visit goway.com to plan your own tailor-made travel experience to these wine regions and more.

day trip spot for travellers, and offers a lot beyond the wine. Restaurants have tasting menus of locally-curated dishes, artisan shops provide a bit of eclectic variety, and you can even go ziplining for a touch of adventure. The local winery owners are hands-on and happy to chat about anything and everything. Waiheke provides a down to earth travel experience.

Rioja

Cape Winelands

My first true wine trip was in the Spanish region of Rioja, known for its full-bodied reds. The food was exceptional, as we sampled local specialities, including jambon and frittata. We stayed in family-run vineyards and explored the avantgarde architecture of the Bodegas Marqués de Riscal. We travelled at harvest time, when the region was bursting with ripe grapes. At one point, we visited a tiny winery where a family sat together chatting and hand-picking the grapes. Rioja is a great entry point into wine tourism.

Waiheke Island

Ride the ferry from Auckland, New Zealand to Waiheke Island to visit your choice of 30 boutique wineries known for their Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Waiheke Island is a great 82

The Cape Winelands outside Cape Town, South Africa, are best known for Chenin Blanc, Cinsault, and Pinotage. The landscape transforms from sweeping coastline to pastoral bushland to idyllic mountain valley. In Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, you’ll find some of the best restaurants in South Africa, including The Blue Crane & The Butterfly, which has my favourite desserts on the planet. Stepping into each vineyard in the Cape Winelands feels like visiting an art gallery and the passion of the local growers is infectious. I capped my stay at a cottage on a working vineyard at Boschendal, where I enjoyed good wine and food surrounded by mountains and wildflowers. It’s only 45 minutes to the airport so it provides the perfect ending to a trip in the cape.

ABOUT GOWAY

On a tailor-made Goway vacation, you do the dreaming, we do the planning. Tailor-Made Every trip planned with Goway is tailored to your exact needs and interests. Elevated Experiences Goway offers exclusive travel products with up to 5-star accommodation and a focus on private-guided touring. Expert Our Destination Specialists are authentic experts, having lived, worked, or travelled extensively through the destinations we sell.

Our Story From its inception, Goway has been fuelled by a passion for travel. In 1970, Bruce Hodge moved from Australia to Canada and founded Goway out of his one-bedroom apartment in Toronto. Over 50 years later, Goway is one of North America’s leading travel companies and the world’s foremost provider of travel experiences to Australia, New Zealand, and the South Pacific.

Global We offer tailor-made travel experiences to over 115 countries on all seven continents. With Goway, you can explore the whole world your way. Trusted Our legendary customer service has yielded a 4.8-star score on TrustPilot with over 4,000 reviews.

Goway offers tailor-made trips to over 115 countries worldwide. It’s a familyowned company still owned and operated by Bruce Hodge, which employees over 600 staff members around the world. Its headquarters is in Toronto and it has offices in Vancouver, Los Angeles, Sydney, and Manila. Goway plans tailor-made travel experiences for world travellers, while also providing wholesale travel services to professional travel advisors. As well, Goway has dedicated groups, air, and corporate divisions.

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THE ARCHIVE

Goway in Print Spring 1975

In 1975, Goway was a fresh faced, rosycheeked travel company that was ready to take the next step in marketing. Our very first travel brochure was a fold-out pamphlet inviting 18 to 30-year-old travellers to “Be a Young European this summer.” We printed 5,000 copies. Prior to this brochure, the bulk of our marketing had been posters on university bulletin boards and ads in brochures and directories for travel agents. So, while this pamphlet might look modest by today’s standards, it represented a major level-up in Goway marketing.