flux a\w 14
EMILY WRIGHT, JESS BRADSHAW AND GRACE JORDEN
CD
CREATIVE DIRECTION 01) GLOBAL REAWAKENING 02) STATECRAFT 03) CROWNING GLORY
GLOBAL REAWAKENING (1) Formafantasma, Stedelijk Museum, 2014
(2) TVDB, Premium, 2014
Ethnic prints and animal illustrations pay homage to global reawakening. With the millennium development goals deadline being next year; going unconquered will bring attention to the affected countries. This combined with the speculation of cloning technologies; recreating the woolly mammoth and Jurassic world in 2015, and the natural history museum curating “mammoths: ice age giants” lends itself to further public exposure. Whilst tom van der borght’s latest collection “a naked safari” captures the essence of global reawakening.
(3) Woolly mammoth, prediction
(4) Makia, Bright, 2014
STATECRAFT (5) Burton Mountain, Bright, 2014
A prominent trend throughout all of Berlin’s A/W tradeshows, we introduce to you; Statecraft. Upcoming exhibitions and film releases lead the way for this politics based trend. With the V&A’s ‘Disobedient Objects’ - focusing on political video games and textiles; along with MOMA’s ‘A Collection of Ideas’ (design in response to environmental and social disruptions) at the forefront of the autumn/winter events calendar, the translation of Political Challenges into clothing is a dead cert. What more could strengthen this trend but the 70th anniversary of WWII, and the subsequent film release of ‘The Monuments Men’ next year, ensuring not only Politics but Camouflage is at the forefront of the Statecraft trend.
(6) Berlin Wall, 1989 (7) WWII Soilder
(8) A Collection of Ideas, MoMA, 2014/15
CROWNING GLORY (9) Queen Elizabeth II
(10) Soulive,
Next season forecasts a subconscious social shift and rise in patriotism as Queen Elizabeth II is set to overthrow her grandmother, Victoria as the longest reigning monarch in British history. With plaid shirts and traditional heritage-esque textiles emerging at Bread & Butter, this trend lends itself to further growth; capitalizing on the Scottish referendum with the speculation of a new Great British flag design and an increase in tartan prints and woven textiles. More obviously, the monarchy trend is translated into over sized crowns and union jack prints at Jean Paul Gaultier’s next autumn/winter collection.
(11) Intergalactic Misrule at Jean Paul Gaultier A/W14
(12) Fashion Rules, Kensington Palace, 2012-15
PG PG
PRINT & GRAPHICS PRINT & GRAPHICS 04) DOODLE DAZE
04) GRAFFITI 05) NITTY GRITTY
05) NITTY GRITTY 06) KALEIDOSCOPIC 06) KALEIDOSCOPIC
DOODLE DAZE
(13) Phlegm, EAST LONDON GALLERY, 2014
(14) T-SHIRT, Dirty velvet, BRIGHT, 2014
Doodle Daze; a translation of expressive art through a variety of tops and t-shirts, and a distinct favorite at both Bright and Seek trade shows. Conveyed through design for both men and women with brands such as Dirty Velvet and Criminal Damage incorporating every style from passive opinionated prints and graffiti to offensive illustration within their garments. With references to Phlegm - an East London Gallery exhibition portrayed as a ‘graffiti fantasy’ - this obvious form of expression sets a key trend for next autumn / winter; acting as an attitude translated into art.
(16) ALEX BREWER (HENSE), ATLANTA, 2013
(15) CRIMINAL DAMAGE, BRIGHT, 2014
NITTY GRITTY
(17) ZERO: COUNTDOWN TO TOMORROW THE GUGGENHEIM 2014
(18) JAMES MARTIN SCULPTURAL 2014
Nitty gritty, a noisy gritty texture in trend for both menswear and womenswear referencing the monochromatic era of the industrial revolution. Iron gate patterns and smoke graphics printed onto basic T-shirts and jersey garments are reminiscent of old factory floor smoke filled rooms. Aligning with Zero: countdown to tomorrow, an exhibition at The Guggenheim occurring late 2014 - 2015 which displays paintings including smoke and fire. The unrefined and imperfect textures within this trend, echo the architecture of Eastern Berlin. the grittiness and industrial style is reflected in James Martins work using raw materials such as aluminium and metal.
(19) PREMIUM 2014
(20) BREAD AND BUTTER BERLIN 2014
KALEIDOSCOPIC (21) MORPHOGENESIS - JONATHAN McCABE
(22) ISSEY MIYAKE A/W 2014/15
Iridescent oil spills; colourful beetle shells and the biological process of morphogenesis play the main influence to this tessellation trend. Taking direct reference for Berlin’s famous night life and techno dance music scene, this eclectic, eccentric and individual style combines the modern day aesthetic with free spirited ideals from the 1970’s and 80’s. Jewel colours and psychedelic bright’s complement the busy repeat patterns and recurring motifs reminiscent of childhood toys such as the Kaleidoscope and Spirograph.
(23) BEETLE SHELL CHIC - PINTEREST
(24) ILLUSTRATED MINDS - MERIJN HOS
MW MENSWEAR
07) FOLKLORE 08) SPACE HOPPER 09) DETACH
FOLKLORE (25) BURBERRY GEOMETRICAL PRINTS A/W 14
(26) EMBROIDERY DETAIL
Geometrical prints inspired by old folk art and decorative tapestries are combined with a world of uncertainty in which we look for comfort; Rustic reds, Ombres and browns placed on thick knitted jumpers and elaborate embroidery captures a common sense of warmth and contentment. Digital prints of bold geometrical lines and tie-dye represent a strong modern bohemian aesthetic. Ornate blanket style jackets and layering lend a new take on heritage as the graphic prints pay homage to traditional folk law.
(27) RUST - DON TAYLOR 2013
(28) STREET STYLE, PINTEREST
SPACE HOPPER
(29) URBAN TRIBES, VUE BERLIN, 2014
(30) SPANISH MOSS AND TOTAL LOSS, 2012
Space Hopper ; A Cosmic wanderlust. Fuelled by a colour palette of Ultraviolet blues, purples and saffron yellows. Angular geometric lines echo complex graphics of classic video games giving casual menswear an astronomical twist for 2014. In a world obsessed with space; Speculation of a 3D printer to be placed on the moon and flights to outer space with Virgin airlines combined with film releases; such as Transcendence a story of the creation of a machine that possesses collective intelligence. All of the above reinforce our intrigue of the unknown, ensuring this trend is set to soar for 2014.
(31) 3D PRINTER - “HYPER EFFICIENT EXTRAPLANETARY ARCHITECTURE”
(32) XANADU ILLUSTRATION BY AMREI HOFSTATTER
DETACH
(33) PADDED MATERIAL BY JULLIUS
(34) 606 SHELVING SYSTEM 1960 - DEITER RAM
Detach simplifies the consumer led culture in which we live in. Challenging traditional values, Detach views materialistic possessions as unimportant with the minimal lifestyle practised regularly. The search for self-identity is largely celebrated, taking inspiration from artist James Turrells work ‘Roden Crater -2002’ and current aesthetics convey a purity of ones self. Pure whites, padded materials and monochromatic palette are echoed through a desire to function in a simplistic culture. Serene sky patterns are present, displaying the necessity to detach from the world and enjoy its beauty.
(35) CALVIN KLEIN MENSWEAR 2014
(36) JAMES TURRELL- RODEN CARTER 2002
VM
VISUAL MERCHANDISING 10) FLUORESCENT ADOLECENT 11) LABOUR NOT INCLUDED 12) OUR EARTHLY PLEASURES
FLUORESCENT ADOLESCENT (37) HANS BOODT AT EUROSHOP 2014
(38) CONTRAST JULIEN CARRETO, 2013
A playful, interactive and childlike aesthetic acts as a method of escapism for the modern day consumer. Living in an ever increasingly self-conscious society; (name of trend) tackles generational taboo’s around body image and over sexualisation with a main focus on our strive for individualism. Mannequins with interchangeable features move away from previous ‘faceless’ trends . Featuring a variety of bright colours, taking natural and raw materials such as marble and metal - synthetically coating them and creating an entirely new aesthetic.
(39) BRIGHT BERLIN 2014
‘IN THE NEXT 10 YEARS, WE’LL BE CUTTING OFF OUR LIMBS IN ORDER TO HAVE PROSTHETICS’ (DENTON. S, 2014)
(40) TENDER LOVE AMONG THE JUNK - THOMAS LANIGAN SCHMIDT MOMA PS1, 2013
LABOUR NOT INCLUDED A MOVE AWAY FROM MINIMALISM (41) TEXTURE WITHIN RAW MATERIALS
(42) CORK AS PAPER BAGS - THETRENDOLOGIE.COM, 2013
(43) SEMI-PERMANENT STRUCTURES- PAPER TREES
Changeable environments featuring an array of DIY style non-permanent structures and objects, contrast with the idea of natural and raw materials. From wood to paper and cork, this trend shows a distinct move away from minimalism - investing in unrefined and imperfect textures and translating directly to Eastern Berlin’s industrial, and seemingly unfinished aesthetic. The creation of craft items, such as personalised leather goods within the retail space allows for consumer interaction and compliments our desires around individuality enabling a modern day twist on DIY.
(44) SAD YOUNG MAN IN A TRAIN - MARCEL DUCHAMP
OUR EARTHLY PLEASURES
(46) FOREST INSPIRED HANG RAIL’S BREAD & BUTTER,BERLIN 2014
(47) ANIMAL PROPS PREMIUM , BERLIN 2014
Our Earthly Pleasures - Berlin’s biggest Visual Merchandising trend pays homage to all things natural and sustainable. With forest inspired, tree style hang rails for garments, and a vegan’s approach to taxidermy; this trend relies on ‘The simplest and most essential principles of which anything can exist’. Taking influence from Berlin’s most recent Alexanderplatz skyscraper proposal Green8 - described as ‘a life form’ as opposed to just somewhere to live; featuring self-sustainable gardens, complementing the idea that we ourselves will one day be self-resourceful. Sparse, open retail spaces are complimented and comforted with ‘green’ imitations of natural materials and a muted woodland colour palette.
(48) FOREST FLOOR PREMIUM , BERLIN 2014
(49) GREEN8 - BERLIN’S NEW SKYSCRAPER
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REFERENCES
(1) FORMAFANTASMA, STEDELIJK MUSEUM, 2014, DEZEEN (2) TVDB, PREMIUM, 2014, OWN IMAGE (3) WOOLLY MAMMOTH, PREDICTION, FUTURETIMELINE.NET (4) MAKIA, BRIGHT, 2014, WGSN (5) BURTON MOUNTAIN, BRIGHT, 2014, WGSN (6) BERLIN WALL, 1989, POWERVOTER.COM (7) WWII SOILDER, PINTEREST (8) A COLLECTION OF IDEAS, MOMA, 2014/15, MOMA (9) QUEEN ELIZABETH II, FUTURETIMELINE.NET (10) SOULIVE, BREAD & BUTTER, 2014, WGSN (11) Intergalactic Misrule at Jean Paul Gaultier A/W14 v(12) FASHION RULES, KENSINGTON PALACE, 2012-15 (13) PHLEGM, EAST LONDON GALLERY, 2014, DEZEEN (14) DEPHECT, BRIGHT, 2014, WGSN (15) CRIMINAL DAMAGE, BRIGHT, 2014, WGSN (16) ALEX BREWER (HENSE), ATLANTA, 2013, PATTERNBANK (17) ZERO: COUNTDOWN TO TOMORROW, THE GUGGENHEIM, 2014 (18) JAMES MARTIN SCULPTURAL 2014, TRENDLAND (19) PREMIUM 2014, OWN IMAGE (20) DRYKORN AT BREAD & BUTTER AUTUMN/WINTER 2014/15, WGSN (21) MORPHOGENESIS - JONATHAN MCCABE, 2014, PATTERNBANK (22) ISSEY MIYAKE A/W14/15, PATTERNBANK (23) BEETLE SHELL CHIC, 2014, PINTEREST (24) ILLUSTRATED MINDS, MERIJN HOS, 2014, PATTERNBANK (25) BURBERRY GEOMETRICAL PRINTS A/W 14, WGSN (26) EMBROIDERY DETAIL, VISUAL-IST.COM (27) RUST - DON TAYLOR 2013 (28) STREET STYLE, PINTEREST, 2014 (29) URBAN TRIBES, VUE BERLIN, 2014 (30) SPANISH MOSS AND TOTAL LOSS, 2012 (31) 3D PRINTER - “HYPER EFFICIENT EXTRAPLANETARY ARCHITECTURE”- FAENA 2014 (32) XANADU ILLUSTRATION, AMREI HOFSTATTER, WGSN, 2014 (33) PADDED MATERIAL BY JULLIUS, WGSN 2014 (34) 606 UNIVERSAL SHELVING SYSTEM 1960 - DEITER RAM (35) CALVIN KLEIN MENSWEAR 2014 (36) JAMES TURRELL- RODEN CARTER 2002, DESIGN BOOM (37) HANS BOODT AT EUROSHOP 2014, WGSN (38) CONTRAST, JULIEN CARRETO 2013, GUROLERKAL.COM (39) OWN IMAGE, BRIGHT, BERLIN, 2014 (40) TENDER LOVE AMONG THE JUNK, MOMA PS1, 2013, MOMA (41) RUST, 2012, THEWOOLLYDOG.CO.UK (42) CORK BAG, THETRENDOLOGIE.COM, 2013 (43) SAD YOUNG MAN IN A TRAIN, MARCEL DUCHAMP, 1911/12 (44) PAPER TREES, 2014, DEZEEN (45) OWN IMAGE, BREAD & BUTTER, BERLIN, 2014 (46) WOODEN LOGS, 2014, TGBUILDINGS.CO.UK (47) OWN IMAGE (EDITED), PREMIUM, BERLIN, 2014 (48) OWN IMAGE, PREMIUM, BERLIN 2014 (49) GREEN8 SKYSCRAPER, ALEXANDERPLATZ, BERLIN, 2013, LIVINCOOL.COM
An array of primary research for ‘The Flux Book’ A/W 14/15 was gained at tradeshows such as Bright, Seek, Capsule and Premium during Fashion Week 2014. The inspiration for the main design aesthetic of The Flux Book came from a variety of publications; taking main reference from Patternbank.com and The Trend Union’s ‘Beyond Colours 2015’. The main idea behind the document’s aesthetic is to combine an engaging, on trend design, with a clean and minimal over view, in order to ensure the document remains as professional and desirable as those seen within industry. This trend book is aimed at fashion buyers for reference of the next autumn/winter seasons’ (2014/15) transitional trends, and includes a collation of both primary and secondary research gained by each of its three creators. When published, the Flux trend book would be printed onto matt 175gsm paper with a wooden hardback. We want it simple to not distract from the trends.