The Pantry
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
WIN
1
The newspaper of The Pipe and Glass Inn | Autumn-Winter 2012/13
Let it snow…
a delicious lunch for two at
The Pipe and Glass Inn in our
at The Pipe and Glass Inn
exclusive Pantry competition | page 5
page 4
Recreate The Pipe and Glass at home – delicious recipes | page 11-13
A trot across the Hotham Estate
Prawn crackers – local children visit The Pipe and Glass | page 8
Page 7
Michelin Pub of the Year 2012 Pipe and Glass Inn voted best pub in UK
www.pipeandglass.co.uk
The Michelin Pub of the Year 2012. Where is it, do you think? The Cotswolds? Some cosy corner of Cornwall? Tucked away in the spectacular scenery of the Scottish highlands?
Actually, it’s in East Yorkshire, nestling in the modestly pretty village of South Dalton, near Beverley – The Pipe and Glass Inn.
An absolute gem run by James and Kate Mackenzie – a local pub, with both a Michelin star and that coveted title: what more could you want?
Let’s leave it to Rebecca Burr, editor of the Michelin Eating Out in Pubs guide, which gave the award, to sum up why The Pipe and Glass won: “This award is given to a pub which we feel offers something extra special. Here it is a combination of factors which include the warmth of the welcome, the friendliness of the staff, the character of the place and, of course, the food. The Pipe and Glass Inn is a wonderfully warm pub and nothing is ever too much trouble for the owners.”
What’s on the menu? James Mackenzie’s new book | page 10
“ Nothing is too much trouble…”
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
2
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
500 years in the making
Great Yorkshire hospitality and great Yorkshire food When James and Kate Mackenzie first clapped eyes on the The Pipe and Glass Inn back in 2005 it was, not to put too fine a point on it, a mess. The former coaching inn on the picturesque Hotham estate needed, says James with typical understatement, ‘a bit of work’.
“It was advertised as having a fully equipped kitchen,” he remembers. “That turned out to be a bank of microwaves – not my idea of a working kitchen at all!”
And then they started calling on their family and many friends for help. They bought The Pipe and Glass shortly after New Year 2006, had a hectic couple of months of long, hard days and working into the night, and opened for business at the end of March. “It was mad, really,” recalls James. “We just went hell for leather to get the place up and running – and somehow, it happened.”
“ You couldn’t ask for a better place to live and work”
But James and Kate – then still only 30 and 27 – fell in love with the place – and they’re the kind of couple who don’t let little things like having no money, and tackling a major refurbishment with only a couple of months’ grace, get in their way.
It didn’t take long for the food critics to catch on that there was an interesting new kid on the block, and inevitably the Michelin inspectors eventually came calling – in 2010, the Pipe and Glass was awarded a Michelin star, which it has kept ever since, and this year, it added the coveted title of Michelin Pub of the Year. And the Mackenzies – four of them now, since Toby (3) and oneyear-old Molly came along – are loving their life in South Dalton.
“You couldn’t ask for a better place to live and work,” says James. “One minute, there’ll be a foodie who’s travelled up from London especially to find out what we’re all about, the next minute, we’re chatting to local farmers having a pint.”
“We hope that anyone who comes here will want to come back again – we aim for good Yorkshire hospitality and great food, simple as that!”
They roped in a pair of business partners who were prepared to take a financial risk – although the couple’s pedigree (James was at the time head chef at the muchlauded Star at Harome, while Kate ran front of house there) went some way towards reassuring them that their investment was in safe hands.
www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
3
1500s/1600s
he Pipe and Glass Inn stands on the site of the original T gatehouse to Dalton Park. The yew tree which stands in the Pipe and Glass garden is believed to be at least 400 years old – what has it seen over the years?
he original gatehouse was eventually replaced by the current T building, part of which dates back to the 17th century. 1900
This picture of The Pipe and Glass Inn is believed to date from around 1900 – we’d be interested to hear from anyone who can date it more accurately, or has any other information pantry@pipeandglass.co.uk
1720 Hotham Hall, the handsome family home of the Hothams, is built around 1720. The hall has been Grade II listed since 1966
1720
1858 1900
1858 The elegant village church, St Mary’s, is built at the behest of the then Lord Hotham, and costs £25,000 to build. The exceptionally slender steeple is 208 feet high, and so well designed that there are no buttresses
1910 1950
1910 Little change ten years or so later – again, we’d be interested in further information, or a more specific date
1950 The Pipe and Glass is bought from the Hotham family by Hull’s Jackson family, better known for their chain of bakeries and grocer’s shops. One of their more inventive marketing techniques is this set of playing cards featuring the Pipe and other pubs they own – The Triton and the Dacre Arms at Brandesburton, and the Ferguson Fawcett at Walkington
1970s/80s 1989
1989 Fire guts the pub on 8 February 1989, causing tens of thousands of pounds worth of damage. The alarm is raised by pub regular and neighbour Harry Griffin (84) and two chefs on the premises at the time escape suffering only with minor smoke inhalation. Landlord Malcolm Crease and his family are away for the day when the fire breaks out – they are ‘devastated’, but promise to work to reopen the pub as soon as possible
2007 he Pipe and T Glass kitchens undergo a complete refurbishment kitchen
2006/07 Yorkshire Life Dining Pub of the Year
2007 The Journal Restaurant of the year
2008 L ondon Restaurant Awards – top 40 restaurants outside London
2008 N orthern Hospitality Awards – Best Newcomer
2009 S age and Thyme, The Pipe’s luxury suites, open
1990 2006 2007
1990s The Jacksons sell the Pipe and Glass in the early 90s – it is subsequently in the hands of several private owners
2006 James and Kate Mackenzie purchase the freehold of The Pipe and Glass
2008 2009 2010
2009 E njoy England – Taste of England Award
2010
T he Pipe and Glass is awarded its first Michelin star, an award it has recently retained for the fourth consecutive year
2010 N orthern Hospitality Awards – Northern Chef of the Year
2010 S unday Times – top 100 restaurants, №84 2010
unday Times – Britain’s top S gastro pubs, №2
2010 N ational Restaurant Awards top 100 UK restaurants
2011
2010/11
D eliciouslyorkshire food champion
2011 The Journal – Restaurant of the Year 2011 2011
2011 T he National Restaurant Awards Top 100, voted №31
2011 The Good Pub Guide – Yorkshire Dining Pub of the Year
he Pipe’s exclusive T private dining room, the Hotham Room, opens
2011 James’ first cookery book, On the Menu, published
2012 Michelin Eating Out in Pubs Guide – Pub of the Year
www.pipeandglass.co.uk
2012 2013
2012 The Pipe and Glass is named as Michelin Pub of the Year for 2012. James and Kate also enter the world of publishing with the twice-yearly newsletter, The Pantry
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
4
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
Private dining at The Pipe and Glass Inn M en ’s & W oMen ’s C lothing for him
for her
hAckett london ViVienne WestWood rAlph lAUren oliVer spencer ArmAni grenson
Vi V ienne West Wood A nglom A ni A moschino cheAp & chic fA r h i ArmAni tW e n t y 8 tW e lV e Ugg
And mAny more…
And mAny more…
11 n oRth B aR W ithin , B eveRley , e ast y oRkshiRe , hU17 8aP 01482 868 903 R i l e y s Fa s h i o n
STUART
McALPINE MILLER LeaderDfThePack
The Artmarket Gallery proudly presents the beautifully executed debut collection of Stuart McAlpine Miller; one of today’s most coveted contemporary artists.
Let it snow… When the weather outside is frightful, the fire at The Pipe and Glass is delightful. There’s no better place to go – let it snow, let it snow, let it snow. Huge apologies to lyricist Sammy Cahn: but really, can there be a nicer place to be on a cold winter’s day than in a cosy country pub, sitting by a roaring fire, a warming aperitif to
hand and a delicious meal on its way? Famed for the warmth of its welcome – it was one of the attributes highlighted by the editor of the Michelin Eating Out in Pubs guide when it won the coveted Pub of the Year award for 2012 – The Pipe and Glass is cosy in temperature, too. And James’ selection of winter menus, including local game and meat, and some rib-sticking puddings, will continue to keep
197 Hallgate, Cottingham, HU16 4BB t: 01482 876003 e: gallery@artmarket.co.uk www.artmarket.co.uk
www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
5
Every guest at The Pipe and Glass Inn is special, whether they’ve just dropped in for a quick ploughman’s lunch, or are having a champagne celebration for a landmark birthday.
But some people like to do their celebrating in private, and for them, The Pipe and Glass has the very place – the private dining suite upstairs. Guests can start in the cosy booklined Chefs’ Library (pictured right), enjoying pre-dinner drinks and canapés while they chat or browse the Mackenzies' vast collection of cookery books (including, of course, James’ very own On the Menu).
Then they move to the glamorous Hotham Room to enjoy a bespoke tasting menu designed in consultation with James. Designer surroundings and cutting edge technology that allows guests to show their own movies and play their own music combine to make this a very special experience. Finally, the lucky members of the private party can head back to the Chefs’ Library for afterdinner coffee and chocolates, and maybe another drink or two, in a relaxing atmosphere.
you warm long after you’ve left.
And with Christmas just around the corner, whether you’re looking for a relaxed family party, or a corporate ‘do’ aimed at impressing clients, James and his team will come up with the goods.
For further information on the festive menu at The Pipe and Glass Inn, please call 01430 810 246 or visit www.pipeandglass.co.uk
The suite is, of course, also available through the day for business users – potential clients couldn’t fail to be impressed by a breakfast meeting at a Michelin-starred restaurant.
And while the private dining suite can accommodate between six and ten, larger parties of twenty-plus can enjoy the exclusive use of the airy and spacious conservatory, with seasonal menus tailored to your requirements by James and his team.
options with our guests.
“The whole point is that you want something really special, whether it’s for a private occasion or a business meeting, and we’ll go the extra mile to help you achieve that.” For more information on private dining at The Pipe and Glass, please call 01430 810 246 or email pantry@pipeandglass.co.uk
James says: “We’re always happy to discuss private dining
Enter The Pantry caption competition
What do you reckon these two furry fellows are thinking? Enter our caption competition, and you could win a fantastic lunch for two at The Pipe and Glass Inn.
Our lucky winner will receive vouchers to the value of £50 to spend at The Pipe and Glass. All you have to do is write a witty caption for our picture, and send to pantry@pipeandglass.co.uk
by 31st January 2013. The best entry will be chosen by James and Kate Mackenzie, and published in the next issue of The Pantry, along with a selection of runners-up. Terms and conditions This competition is open to all readers of The Pantry except Pipe and Glass employees and anyone connected with the competition. Entry to the competition is via pantry@ pipeandglass.co.uk, and the winning entry will be published in the next issue.
All entrants must supply their names and email addresses. The Pipe and Glass will only ever use email details for the purposes of administering this competition, and will not publish them or provide them to anyone without permission. Judging will take place on 1 February 2013, and the prize will be posted within the week. The prize is vouchers for £50 to spend at The Pipe and Glass before 19 August 2013.
There is no limit on the number of entries a person can make. The Pipe and Glass reserves the right to cancel or alter or amend the competition at any stage, if deemed necessary in its opinion, or if circumstances arise outside of its control.
www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
W I N N E R
2012
O P T I C A L A S S I S TA N T T E A M O F T H E Y E A R
Gift certificates available
Concerned about rising energy prices? A different world cannot be built by indifferent people
We’re accountants, so what makes us different? Nothing about what we do, everything about how we do it for you!
Our positive attitude is our foundation for excellence Integrity is a guiding principle We encourage creativity and independent thinking Our aim is to exceed our clients' expectations We encourage enterprise and opportunity We passionately approach every client issue with the belief that there is always a positive solution to any financial challenge
We can help you reduce your bills. We supply and install Redwell infrared heating. More than twice as efficient as conventional heating systems, infrared offers a solution for anyone that wants to improve efficiency and reduce the cost of heating. Completely safe and easy to install. Why not generate your own electricity with solar panels? A 4 kW system costs £6000 and will pay for itself within the 6thyear, let us show you how.
Ways To Save Solar PV
Generate your own electricity
Super Efficient Heating
Infrared heating offers savings of up to 60%
Solar Hot Water
24 hour hot water with new thermal dynamics
Energy Survey
Advice on where to save
For further details please visit our website:
www.humber-energy.com Tel. 01482 845 840
If you would like us to make a difference to your business, we’d love to speak to you
call us on 0800 092 1166 or visit www.positiveaccountants.co.uk
INSPIRING CONFIDENCE
AND DELIVERING FINANCIAL CLARITY
www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
7
Meet the producer
Three little pigs on Kiplingcotes Farm There’s a lot of talk these days about air miles, and the importance of sourcing local produce. But how many restaurants can honestly say they source a major ingredient from within walking distance?
At The Pipe and Glass Inn much of the cured pork – the chorizo, the salami – and the black pudding comes from Three Little Pigs, based at Kiplingcotes Farm at Dalton Home, just a trot away across the Hotham estate. Three Little Pigs is run by Jon and Charlotte Clarkson: the Clarksons have farmed at Kiplingcotes for five generations. And the couple have their very own ‘three little pigs’: Dylan (5), Zach (4) and 18-month-old Jethro.
“This is our fifth year farming pigs,” Jon says. “We started out when someone bought us two pigs as a wedding present. They were ‘in pig’ – pregnant – and we had to figure out what to do with them. Then we bought ourselves three little pigs – and that’s where the name came from. We put them in the front yard surround by bales, and spent most of our time putting www.pipeandglass.co.uk
them back – they could clear those bales like no-one’s business!”
Five years later, and the Clarksons have around 160 pigs – mostly black Berkshires, a rare breed much loved by PG Wodehouse, whose fictional Empress of Blandings, an enormous black sow, featured in his popular Blandings novels. They also keep a handful of Middle Whites, and a few Berkshire-cross-saddlebacks. “Rare breeds have by far the best flavour,” explains Jon. “They can take up to ten months to grow to full size, rather than the standard six, so you get a really good flavour and great meat.”
The Clarksons are insistent on going above and beyond the highest standards of welfare for their pigs – these porkers even drink natural mineral water from the farm. Their lives may not be long, but they’re undoubtedly happy.
Once the pigs have been slaughtered at a local abattoir, they’re returned to the Clarksons for butchery by Jon, who is completely self-taught. He then sets about producing the cured sausages that The Pipe uses, working from a converted shipping container and using specialist equipment imported from Italy.
Jon enjoys the creative side of the job, and experiments with lots of different flavours, always using dried herbs from Steenbergs Organic of Harrogate – fresh herbs would introduce too much moisture into the sausages. Recent innovations
include a tequila chorizo based on a traditional Mexican recipe and a recipe of Jon’s own devising: triple sec and wild pepper salami.
James at The Pipe tends to favour two plainer types of chorizo, a sweet, and a spicy, version, and uses them in delicious recipes such as grilled asparagus with crispy duck egg, Yorkshire chorizo and lovage – see picture, bottom right. For more information visit www.threelittlepigsonline.co.uk
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
8
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
Real food at an early age Bridlington youngsters take fun lessons on food at The Pipe and Glass Inn
“Miss, do you know what this is? It’s a mint leaf – I’m taking it home for my mum.”
Nineteen pupils from Bridlington’s Bay Primary School have temporarily taken over the herb garden at The Pipe and Glass Inn, enthusiastically picking, sniffing and tasting a wide variety of herbs, both common and unusual.
They’re absorbed in the sensory experience, breaking off occasionally to tell James Mackenzie their own stories and opinions: “James, James – we have a big lavender bush outside our front door. It smells lovely – but we have to be really careful of the bees.”
And: “If I’ve only learned one thing today, it’s ‘never, ever eat fennel’.” www.pipeandglass.co.uk
His mother’s knee
James is a strong believer that it’s important to teach children about ‘real’ food from an early age – he started learning how to cook at his mother’s knee.
Today’s visit includes a look at the wine cellar. “I think a lot of kids these days think alcohol is just about getting drunk,” he says. “It’s really important that they learn that having a glass of wine can be one of life’s great pleasures, and that they don’t have to go over the top in the process.” The children are also introduced to a selection of cheeses, including Shepherds Purse Yorkshire Blue. There are squeals of disgust when James explains that the blue element is, essentially, mould, but
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
9
quite a few of the children are still brave enough to try it – and some of them even like it.
They’re asked to identify a range of vegetables that they might not usually see in their school dinners, including celeriac, mooli and heritage tomatoes. And they smell and taste some of the spices that James uses in his recipes, including vanilla, cinnamon, juniper, cardamom, cloves and star anise.
Bubbly Kyle, whose one ambition in life is to be a chef, and who has clung to James like mace to a nutmeg, prompts concern when, despite strict instructions to spit out a clove after chewing it, he instead swallows it. But he’s none the worse for the experience, and later has to be hauled away from the homemade biscuits that the Pipe staff bring out for the group.
But the highlight of the morning is when James reveals the contents of a mysterious polystyrene box which has been lurking on a nearby table. It’s full of live langoustines – a little drowsy from the chiller, but still lively enough to give a nasty nip to anyone who picks them up. The children are gentle with them: perhaps more because they’re wary of their sharp little pincers than through any reverence for nature, though.
Homemade biscuits
The morning rounds off with a tour of the busy kitchen, followed by squash for the children, and coffee for the accompanying adults – delicious chocolate and orangeand-hazelnut biscuits for all. Chattering enthusiastically, the children head back to the bus waiting to take them back to Brid. Chair of the governors, Eileen Johnston, is smiling broadly.
Busy kitchen
“We really want to get the children interested in ‘proper’ food,” she says. “We’ve been doing all sorts with them at school – a lot of cooking, growing their own vegetables. But a visit like this can really inspire them – just look at their faces.”
www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
10
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
What’s on the menu?
Seasonal recipes for a culinary life As if life at The Pipe and Glass isn’t busy enough for chef-owner James, he recently found time write a stunning new cookery book.
On the Menu – Seasonal Recipes for a Culinary Life features many favourites from The Pipe and Glass menu. And not only that, it’s a thing of great beauty, with photographs by top snappers Jason Lowe and Antonio Olmos. It’s currently in the running for a top design award, having been shortlisted in the Lifestyle Illustrated category of the British Book Design and Production Awards 2012. It faces stiff competition from the likes of Jamie Oliver, whose latest book Jamie’s Great Britain (Penguin Books) is also shortlisted in the same category. But don’t just take our word for
it – here’s what those all-important food bloggers have said:
“On The Menu is outstanding. The recipes are sensible and you will indeed be driven to make them. That surely should be the test of a good cookbook. It will likely spend its life on the kitchen table. Your kids will leaf through this just as James turned the pages of his mum’s cookbooks. Your family and friends will love these dishes that are unfussy but have that ooohh-aaahh factor that is so often missing in chef-authored books. This is sure to become a prizewinner.”
story of James and Kate Mackenzie’s East Yorkshire pub The Pipe and Glass Inn, a pub that was awarded a Michelin star in 2010. You get to know James and Kate, their suppliers, a thing or two about seasonality and obviously the food, all captured through beautiful photography by Jason Lowe.” ElizabethOnFood www.elizabethonfood.com
On the Menu is available from good bookshops, from Amazon, or – and here’s the good bit – you could combine a book-buying trip with lunch and buy it directly from The Pipe and Glass! To whet your appetite, please see recipes from the book on page 12 and 13.
Mostly Food Journal www.mostlyfood.co.uk
“A keen cook opens a new cookery book with a sense of anticipation and excitement, and I am not disappointed by the alluring soft, black matte cover of James Mackenzie’s debut book On the Menu. Each page presents an intriguing insight into the culinary adventures of Mackenzie, chef and proprietor at the Pipe and Glass Inn, an awardwinning traditional pub/restaurant in the village of South Dalton. “James Mackenzie is a very good chef and one gets the feeling that if you asked him to make any dish with an arm tied behind his back he would cook it to perfection.” Foodtripper www.foodtripper.com
“On the Menu is not just a cookbook; this is a book about the food, the pub, the people, seasonality and local produce. The book tells the www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
11
Game for anything
Autumn is a fantastically exciting time for cooks, marking the beginning of a whole new larder of game. All game is very healthy to eat, and can be cheap. I’d recommend anyone to make the most of the game larder, as it can be used in a huge variety of ways, from the creative and unusual, such as curried snipe, through simple roast game birds in more traditional dishes such as coq au vin but using pheasant or guinea fowl.
cress, fried breadcrumbs and a croûte of the livers. Grouse is not to everyone’s taste – it’s a stronger-tasting game bird – but I encourage people to try it. As the season moves on and the birds get a little older we use it for potting and serve it on a plate of game.
“Pheasant can be dry: the secret is to keep it moist. I braise it in local cider”
First on the menu is the young grouse, which we normally get on The Pipe and Glass menu on the 13th August. They come at a price, though! In the first couple of weeks, we simply roast the bird and serve it traditionally garnished with bread sauce, game chips, redcurrant, waterwww.pipeandglass.co.uk
At the start of September the very popular red-legged partridge start to appear on the menu. This is by far the most popular game bird we sell. We serve it roasted with parsnip dauphinoise, smoky bacon fritters and a sauce of mulled elderberries foraged from nearby trees.
form the leg meat, stuff it under the skin, wrap it in caul fat, then cook it sous vide. Finish by pan roasting it and serve it with crispy black pudding and baked apple. Throughout the rest of the season the occasional woodcock, snipe, teal and wigeon all make an appearance on the specials board. Rabbits and hares are sometimes brought to the kitchen door by a few local lads and a bit of bartering taking place.
Deer features on a menu regularly. We use the whole animal: the haunch cut for braises and stews, whereas the loin I remove from the saddle and simply pan fry in butter for a few minutes and rest before serving. I would highly recommend you try some game this winter – we love it and hope you do too.
As we head into November, pheasant are abundant. Pheasant can be dry: the secret is to keep it moist. I braise it in local cider, or make a chestnut and sage forcemeat
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
12
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
Recipes
Autumn – Winter
Starter Creamed Shetland Mussels with Scrumpy Cider, Curly Kale and Smoked Bacon Shetland mussels are amongst the best in the world in my opinion. Make sure that you buy them really fresh, and follow the old rule that mussels are at their best eaten when there’s an ‘r’ in the month. Use a good quality scrumpy cider and always buy a little extra to wash down the mussels with a glass or two.
Ingredients: Serves 4
2kg mussels, washed and the beards removed 6 rashers of good quality rindless streaky smoked bacon 2 shallots 2 cloves of garlic Knob of butter 400ml scrumpy cider 200g curly kale, washed and stalks removed 150ml double cream Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Main Roast English Partridge with Parsnip Dauphinoise and Mulled Damsons The English grey-legged partridge is a great seasonal treat when you can get it, as it’s much plumper and more flavoursome than its more common French red-legged cousins. The redlegged variety is still really tasty though and suits this dish equally well. Also, if you can’t get damsons, you can switch them for elderberries or blackberries. This garnish is ideal for any game dish.
The wine game We’re now entering the season of winter fires, robust wines and fabulous game.
Game birds such as quail, pheasant, duck and partridge have earthy flavours that are more robust than chicken. Wild game often goes better with red wines that have a gamy quality to them, the classic being Pinot Noir, the grape of red Burgundy. The flavours of Pinot Noir – plum, cherry, www.pipeandglass.co.uk
1. Cook the bacon on a baking tray under the grill until crispy, and then chop into chunks. Peel and slice the shallots, and peel and crush the garlic.
3. Pour in the cider and add the mussels, then put a lid on straight away so that the mussels steam. At the point when they start to open add the bacon, curly kale and cream and then carry on cooking for a few more minutes so that the mussels are all open and the curly kale is wilted.
4. Season with a little salt – not too much as the bacon can be salty – and a bit of ground black pepper. Serve piping hot in bowls with some warm crusty bread.
Ingredients: Serves 4
1. Pre-heat the oven to 160°c/gas mark 3. To make the dauphinoise, slice the parsnips and potato very thinly. In a large saucepan bring the cream and garlic to the boil. Drop the parsnip and potato into the pan and simmer for 5 minutes making sure that the potatoes and parsnips are mixed evenly and well seasoned. Remove from the heat and place the parsnip mix in an ovenproof dish. Top with the grated cheese and bake in the oven for about 40 minutes.
3. To make the sauce, put the damson jelly, red wine vinegar and port into a saucepan and reduce by three quarters over a high heat. Add the stock and thyme to the pan and continue to reduce until a strong flavour and glossy sauce is achieved. Remove from the heat and pass through a fine sieve into another saucepan.
2. Then heat a large saucepan, add a knob of butter, the shallots and garlic. Cook for a couple of minutes and then turn up the heat.
4 whole partridge, oven-ready Rapeseed oil 4 rashers of smoked streaky bacon For the dauphinoise
4 parsnips, peeled 2 large potatoes 500ml double cream 2 cloves garlic Salt and pepper 150g mature cheddar cheese, grated For the sauce
4 tblsp damson or redcurrant jelly 75ml red wine vinegar ½ bottle port 500ml game or beef stock 1 sprig fresh thyme 1 bunch watercress mushrooms, earth, and what some can only describe as a distinctive ‘farmyard’ aroma accentuate the gamey flavours in the food. My recommendation from our list would be Nuits St Georges 2007 – Domaine Robert Arnoux, Vosne Romanée, Burgundy. Other alternatives to Pinot Noir would be Rioja, and lighter-style Rhone Valley wines such as Côte-Rôtie.
Choices are a bit more limited if you’re looking for a white wine to give a really
2. Sear the partridges on all sides in a little hot rapeseed oil in a large frying pan, then remove and place on a baking tray, wrap in the bacon and roast in the oven at 160°c/gas mark 3 for 20 minutes. Remove and leave to rest for at least 5 minutes before serving.
4. To serve, place the whole bird on the plate, spoon the sauce over and finish with the dauphinoise on the side. Garnish with some freshly picked watercress.
good match with game. From our list I would recommend an Alsace Pinot Gris.
Above all, though, it’s about drinking what you enjoy – everyone’s palate is very different.
Kate Mackenzie
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
13
Dessert Warm Chocolate, Sloe Gin and Juniper Pudding with Damson Ripple Ice Cream Ingredients: Serves 4 For the ice cream (makes 600ml) 6 egg yolks 125g caster sugar 250ml milk 250ml double cream 1 vanilla pod, or a few drops of vanilla extract 300g damsons 200g sugar For the chocolate pudding 250g dark chocolate 125g sugar 2 eggs 125g butter 50g cocoa powder 40g plain flour 1 tblsp cornflour ½ tsp ground juniper berries 2 tblsp sloe gin
1. To make the ice cream, whisk the eggs and sugar together in a bowl until well mixed and a creamy texture. Pour the milk and cream into a saucepan. Split the vanilla pod and scrape out the seeds with a knife and add the seeds and pod to the pan. Bring to the boil and pour the hot mixture over the eggs and sugar. Mix until well blended together. Return to the saucepan over a low heat. Stir constantly until the mix
www.pipeandglass.co.uk
coats the back of a spoon. Strain the cooked mixture through a sieve into a bowl and cool. Stir the mix occasionally to help cool it evenly. When cool, cover and place in the fridge until needed.
2. Place the damsons in a pan with 200g sugar and 100ml of water, bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes with a lid on, remove from the heat and pass the damson mixture through a sieve. Chill the damson purée.
3. Remove the ice cream mix from the fridge and churn in an ice cream machine. When it has gained a soft, ice cream consistency, empty into a bowl and ripple in the damson purée.
4. Pre-heat the oven to 160°c/ gas mark 3. 5. To make the chocolate pudding, whisk the sugar and eggs together until fluffy and white. Whilst whisking, melt the chocolate and butter over a bain-marie, or in a microwave. Once melted, add
the chocolate and egg mixes together and whisk. Add the dry ingredients and the sloe gin and then gently fold in. Put the mixture into ramekins, or one big ovenproof dish, and put to one side.
6. Cook the chocolate mixture at 160°c/ gas mark 3 for 5-10 minutes depending on the size of your dish. The pudding should be soft in the middle and crusty on the surface. Dust with cocoa powder to finish. Serve the damson ripple ice cream on top of the chocolate pudding.
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
14
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
Tweets
News Pipe and Glass now on Twitter
Rain stopped play The Mackenzie family soldiers on at a washed-out Great Yorkshire Show
Want to keep up with the latest from James and his team at The Pipe and Glass, including just-in seasonal ingredients, new dishes in development, cookery demonstrations, general chit chat, and some great photos? It’s also a great way to ‘eavesdrop’ on conversations between James and fantastic fellow chefs.
Love food? Give food!
Jubilee jollity
The Team Editors at large: James, Kate, Toby and Molly Mackenzie Concept Creation Design & Production www.graphicpower.co.uk
www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Look at the size of this in rob the sous chefs hand ! A beauty 25kg halibut from @ HodgsonFish just delivered
Then sign up to follow James on Twitter: @pipeandglass
But with the three-day show cancelled after just one day because the torrential rain had left the car parks too muddy to negotiate – the first time the show has been cancelled due to weather in 154 years – at least both dad and son got to show off their fashionable festival-style wellies…
You can order a copy of the photo and see Mike’s work and services, including the restoration and repair of old photographs, printing your own images, equine and family photography, landscape, architecture and food photography, by visiting his website www.daltonimages.co.uk
@pipeandglass
All the news that’s fit to tweet
They say you should never work with children or animals, and that was certainly the case when James did a demo at this year’s Great Yorkshire Show and took along three-year-old Toby, who took one disloyal bite of a whopping hot dog from a show stall and announced it was ‘the best he’d ever had’ – one in the eye for poor old dad!
Our glorious back page poster of the South Dalton village party at Dalton Hall on Monday 4th June to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II (see – there were days when it didn’t rain in the summer of 2012!) was taken by South Dalton photographer Mike Loughlin. The Pipe and Glass provided the bar and food for this lovely community event, and a great time was had by all.
Follow James Mackenzie
Dates for your diary Monday 29 Oct. | James’ Winter Feast Masterclass at the Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School:
www.yorkshirewoldscookeryschool.co.uk
Sunday 4 Nov. 10.30am | Dove House Hospice Christmas Fair at the Beverley Arms Hotel. James is very proud to officially opening this event, as well as doing a book signing of On the Menu: www.thebeverleyarms.co.uk/events Monday 12 Nov. 6pm | Pipe and Glass Christmas Fair – see opposite.
Words by Jeannie Swales and photography by Tony Bartholomew (unless otherwise credited) www.turnstonemedia.co.uk We want to hear from you – comments about The Pantry, and suggestions for future stories, are always very welcome. Please email pantry@pipeandglass.co.uk
Gloucester old spot pork went to this excellent campaign, which aims to provide sustainable solutions to hunger in Liberia, Niger and Burkina Faso.
We’re privileged to live in a country where food is, for most of us, plentiful. James says: “This is a great way for But as food lovers and, more importantly, parents, both James and Kate are us to do our bit. It has the added aware that many people aren’t so lucky. benefit that every pound raised before 30 November will be matched That’s why the Pipe and Glass was by the UK government, helping us delighted to back the Love Food Give reach twice as many children.” Food campaign from Action Against For more information and to Hunger. Throughout September and get involved, check out October, £1 from every order for the www.lovefoodgivefood.org pub’s signature dish of spiced potted
Monday 19 Nov. 7pm | A festive cookery demonstration by James at The Cellar Door, Melton, in aid of Dove House Hospice: www.houseoftownend.com Wednesday 21 Nov. | James is one of five Michelin-starred chefs to cook their own menu at the awardwinning Burlington Restaurant at the Devonshire Food Festival, Bolton Abbey:
www.devonshirechefs.co.uk/food-festival.cfm
New Year’s Eve – exclusive gala dinner at The Pipe and Glass. Please call 01430 810 246 for more details.
New for 2013 | James’ seasonal kitchen demonstrations. On various Mondays throughout the year, James will give two-hour demonstrations in The Pipe and Glass kitchen, followed by lunch. He will cook three seasonal dishes and give you the chance to help and get chef ’s hints and tips. Tickets: £50 per person to include a three-course lunch and a glass of wine, or £75 with a signed copy of James’ book On The Menu. See www.pipeandglass.co.uk for up-todate information on forthcoming events
If you’d like your business to be an advertising partner of The Pantry, please drop us a line at pantry@pipeandglass.co.uk
We’re accepting just one advertising partner from each sector, so you’ll never see your competitors advertising alongside you. And each partner will be offered first refusal on space in the subsequent issue, ensuring you always have access to that premium space.
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
15
The Artmarket Gallery Run by art lover Robert Power with his partner Michelle, The Artmarket Gallery offers a selection of signed limited edition prints, sculptures and originals to collectors from all around the world. The high street gallery in Cottingham showcases artistic talent from the UK, including Alexander Millar, Paul Kenton and Louise Dear, and internationally acclaimed artists such as Bob Dylan and Ronnie Wood. All the predominantly contemporary works are originals, or hand-signed by the artist in closed small limited editions.
“We have a great range of clients from young professionals and families to seasoned collectors,” says Robert. “We offer pieces for all budgets, starting from £250 for a limited edition print up to £20,000plus for an original artwork.”
Alexander Millar
Christmas is a-coming… …and that means it’s time to start thinking about Christmas shopping. If you’re keen to get ahead, why not pop along to the Pipe and Glass Christmas Fair on the evening of Monday 12 November? Not only will you be able to browse a selection of gorgeous gifts (and have a glass of delicious mulled wine while you’re doing it) – but all profits from the entry fee will go to a very good cause – the South Dalton Village Hall fund.
James will be on hand to sign copies of his book On the Menu (the perfect present for your favourite cook!), and stalls will include: • Pipe and Glass produce for Christmas orders
• Delicious produce from James White Butchers of Hutton Cranswick
• Rare breed salamis and chorizos from Three Little Pigs (see page 7 for more information) • Local rapeseed oil
• Tim Bulmer – artist and cartoonist specialising in wine and sport • Fantastic cards from the Phoenix Trading Card Company • Fabrics and homeware by Sue Bentley
Complementing the gallery in Cottingham, The Artmarket Gallery has further collections online selling nationally and internationally – Bob Dylan’s work has been bought by collectors in New Zealand, and Ronnie Wood’s art has found its way to the USA via Artmarket.
And the gallery cements its national and international reputation by partnering with London gallery the Halcyon. “London can often be seen as the only destination to buy recognised art,” says Robert. “We work together with the Halcyon and their associates to bring the most coveted art and artists to the heart of Yorkshire.”
The Artmarket Gallery also offers corporate art services, working with businesses nationwide to provide corporate art installations, including the exclusive private dining area at The Pipe and Glass Inn.
• Artworks by Julia Burns of Red Hen Originals of Helmsley • Country clothing and gifts • Portrait photography
• Organic clothes for children • And much more…
Doors open at 6.30pm and tickets are £2.50 (at the door) – the entry fee includes a glass of mulled wine. The Pipe and Glass bar will be open from 6.30pm for drinks only.
Bob Dylan
“We invite clients to visit us to help them decide which art would work best in their environment, and provide advice and guidance,” says Robert. “We also offer art proposals and creative concepts showing how collections would look in your business environment. Installation is also straightforward and professionally handled by our dedicated and qualified installation team.” For more information about The Artmarket Gallery call 0800 1701 008, or visit www.artmarket.co.uk
www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass Inn
www.pipeandglass.co.uk South Dalton village party at Dalton Hall Photograph by Mike Loughlin
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012