LO C A L F L AV O R
the concept rings with authenticity. The restaurant, manned by executive chef Darshon Daines, occupies space that was once a Starbucks. It’s been beautifully renovated into an open room full of outdoor light – be it sun or moon – bursting with delicious smells and lively dining. Banquettes line open windows that look to outdoor seating, with plenty of space on the center floor for families. Daines and crew take pride in making all of their pastas by hand every morning: a squid ink garganelli (a flat noodle, handrolled into a tube); spaghetti; rigatoni; fettuccine; gnocchi; and agnolotti, tiny square pillows filled with ricotta and spinach. It’s what the chefs do with these delicious pastas that makes this portion of the menu exciting … and what has made Osteria the talk of the town. From the Roman delicacy cacio e pepe (spaghetti) to a whimsical rigatoni dubbed “carbonara in a jar,” all of the pastas are expertly cooked, dressed and presented. Because Osteria knows that humans do not live on pasta alone (although this reporter could make a good case for doing so when it comes to this restaurant), there are many other roads to travel when it comes to Italian cuisine. Locally sourced wagyu beef from the Iron Horse Ranch in the Pottawato-
mie County hamlet of Macomb, the pork chop (Milanese), the lamb (ossobuco) or a 12-ounce wagyu beef meatball appetizer nestled in tomato sugo and creamy housemade ricotta will knock you off your seat. The seafood is an absolute must, too. It’s flown sea to table in 24 hours, courtesy of Osteria’s supplier. The braised/grilled octopus (yes, octopus) with fennel, romesco sauce and charred lemon has become one of the many stars of Osteria’s menu, along with the seared hake and toasted wheat berries. The expansive bar, which runs the length of the interior, is home to creative shakes and pours, plus aged grapes from Italy to the West Coast. Prosecco cocktails, wines from Chianti to cabernet … you can find your poison for brunch, lunch or dinner, complete with a knowledgeable waitstaff and barkeeps who promise to keep your glass lively and the Osteria experience at a fabulous Cin-Cin. Brunch is not to be missed. Familiar favorites with an Italian twist are welcomed sights. House-cured salmon and egg pomodoro – along with Osteria’s brick-oven-baked pizzas, pastas and paninis – are the perfect match with a pristine cocktail. If you feel decadent, try the Chelsea’s Cinnamon Roll from pastry chef Chelsea Berry … delizia! Keep an eye out for the dynamic duo opening another restaurant this summer. Stranger says the joint is “not exactly Osteria 2, but there will ABOVE: ENJOY THE TUNA be a heavy, all-encomCARPACCIO AS A STARTER, WITH YELLOW FIN TUNA, passing Mediterranean CAPERS, PICKLED ONIONS, theme to the menu – ItalFRISEE, BREAKFAST RADISH AND BURNT LEMON ian obviously, Spanish VINAIGRETTE. and north African – in LEFT: JONATHON the old Urban Johnnie’s STRANGER AND FABIO VIVI- space downtown.” ANI HAVE JOINED FORCES TO CREATE OSTERIA.
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OKLAHOMA MAGAZINE | MARCH 2019
SCOTTY IRANI
Foolish Things Bar and Biscuit, tucked away in Tulsa’s Brookside area, feels curiously warm and welcoming, and the biscuit sandwiches would make owner Justin Carpenter’s mother proud. “My mother’s from a big Mexican family,” he says, “and she taught me that if you want to show people you care for them, you feed them well. [When I was] young, I wanted to change the world, but now I just want to create a space where people feel safe and can form a community.” Carpenter and crew experimented for months to create the perfect biscuit; it’s topped with skirt steak rubbed in coffee and brown sugar and cooked to order, with creme fraiche and a poached farm egg, or with gravy, made with sausage and milk from local farms. There are lots of other items: more than 40 cocktails, many inspired by hundred-year-old recipes; impeccably sourced fair trade coffees that vary with the season; and exquisite arrangements of flowers from local greenhouses. Carpenter has a passion for learning and an obsession to do everything perfectly. There’s already a community at Foolish Things. Ask Carpenter about any dish and he insists on giving credit to all the friends who helped design it. 3524F S. Peoria Ave., Tulsa; 918289-4156; barandbiscuit.com. BRIAN SCHWARTZ
PHOTOS BY JEFFREY METCALF
Taste
NOT FOOLIN’ ANYONE WITH THESE BISCUITS
