Perhaps because it grounded him in the culture of his birthplace. Perhaps because it brings back Proustian memories of his Virginia childhood. Or perhaps just because it’s fascinating and tastes so good. For whatever reason, Ben has been drawn to cooking east Asian food from the day when, a high school senior with some free time, he decided to enroll in a cooking class at the local tech. Starting about 10 years ago, he educated himself in every aspect of Korean cuisine. “With Korean food, you have the sweet, the savory, the spice, sometimes all in one dish. I love it,” he says. “Here at Mr. Kim’s, you shouldn’t expect traditional Korean food. It’s my very personal journey through Korean and all Asian cuisine.” The journey begins at an unmarked door just north of Second Street in downtown Tulsa. The interior, dimly lit and oneiric, has blackened yakisugi walls of burnt Japanese cedar and groups of excited diners seated at tables with a gas fire in the middle. Sit down, relax and order. Your meal, whether a la carte or one of the Omakase tasting menus, begins with appetizers. Ben is a veteran of fine dining establishments such as The Tavern, and his training in classical French technique shows in these marvelous tidbits inspired by Korean cuisine. Tasty dumplings filled with tender Oklahoma Wagyu are topped with a beautiful spiderweb rice flour tuile. Thin slices of hamachi are served with julienned apple and creamy ponzu sauce. (Yes this is more Japanese than Korean, and why not? It’s delicious!) Steak tartare is topped with caviar. And then comes a platter of the meats you’ve ordered, glowing in the firelight. If you’ve ordered the higherend omakase, that platter includes glistening slices of USDA Prime ribeye and strip, Oklahoma
Wagyu from Grand Cattle Company, prime ribeye cap, diver scallops, marinated beef (bulgogi) and marinated short ribs (galbi). And, star of the show, the finest A5 Wagyu from Kagoshima, Japan, with impossibly rich flavor that explodes in your mouth. The server will be happy to cook your food on the grill, or you can do it yourself. There are lettuce wraps and tasty ssamjang sauce for the meat, or you can eat it plain with knife and fork. There are no rules – but there are banchan. Those tiny vegetable dishes are rich with traditional Korean flavors, and you get five of them, including kimchi, which takes Ben two weeks to make. If you want more starch, you can round out your feast with fried rice made with prime beef and some of that kimchi. It’s a filling, wonderful feast. Your journey has a sweet ending with a scoop of Rose Rock Creamery tangerine sorbet. Ben’s personal journey has a happy ending too. “Those past two years of COVID ... bleak, miserable, day after day just going through the motions, fighting to keep our restaurants alive,” he says. “But now at Mr. Kim’s, I’m doing something I love. It feels so good to be happy! Food is fun again.” BRIAN SCHWARTZ
TA S T E | LO C AL FL AVOR Photo courtesy Tienda Guatemala
TA S T E | F I R S T BI T E
TIENDA GUATEMALA
If you have never experienced authentic Guatemalan specialties, today is the day to make your way to Tenth and Virginia Avenue in OKC, to a tiny storefront that began years ago in the Plaza District. Tienda Guatemala offers both daily menu items made from scratch in small batches and beautifully crafted bread and sweets in the “Minimarket Guatemala” side of the business. For the uninitiated, you always start with an order of pupusas. Made of masa and stuffed with various ingredients before being griddled, these are some of the best this writer has ever tasted. They are served with curtido, a fresh and crunchy slaw made from cabbage, onions, carrots, oregano and vinegar or lime juice. While the menu is limited and some items rotate regularly, there are no wrong decisions. You can order traditionally prepared chicken, either guisado (a rich stew) or rostizado (roasted). Various caldos (soups), tamales and chiles rellenos are also available. Pacaya, the flowers of date palms native to the country, make a delicious vegetarian option. For a refreshing beverage to pair with your meal, try one of their typical aguas frescas. Fresh fruit or flowers (lemon, hibiscus or tamarind) are blended with water and sugar to make these “fresh waters.” They also offer a variety of fresh, natural juices in blends like green juice, energy, anti-flu, vitamins and more. Tienda Guatemala is open from 7 a.m. until 10 p.m. seven days a week, and everything on their regular menu is under $12. For specials, follow them on Facebook. AMANDA JANE SIMCOE
MAY 2022 | WWW.OKMAG.COM
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