Let's GO Iceland by graylineiceland

1.tlb 2019

Welcome aboard Gray Line, your Iceland tour expert This is where your Icelandic journey begins. No matter what you’re looking for — culture, nature, local foods or thrilling adventures — we are proud to show you our country and share with you a truly unforgettable experience. Let’s GO magazine is filled with information and inspiration to help you make the most of your time in Iceland. Take a look at our diverse selection of excursions: from exploring ice caves and glacier snowmobiling, to discovering the world of Game of Thrones and dabbling in Iceland’s beer culture — there’s something for everyone in these pages. Naturally we offer favorites like the classic Golden Circle tour and South Iceland adventures, but we’re always on the lookout for new and unique experiences. We pride ourselves on employing some of the best and most experienced guides in the country. Delivering unforgettable experiences is our mission.

Gray Line Iceland is one of the leading travel companies in Iceland, and we maintain a responsible operation. We strive to be effective environmental stewards and support sustainable tourism practices. We are proud of our Gold-Class Environmental certification from VAKINN, the official quality system in Iceland, along with our Certified Travel Service qualification.

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When you travel with us you can expect a truly memorable adventure with seasoned guides who have a real passion for sharing with you the wonders of Iceland. And at the end of your stay, our Airport Express is ready to take you back to the airport, in comfort and safety. Have a great stay! Sigurdór Sigurðsson & Þórir Garðarsson Owners & Founders Gray Line Iceland Gray Line Iceland is a fully licensed travel agency with more than 25 years’ experience. Gray Line Iceland is a part of Gray Line Worldwide, which is the largest sightseeing company in the world. Our high quality fleet of vehicles can service all types of trips, and our professional guides have genuine and extensive knowledge of Iceland’s history, nature and culture. From day trips to group packages and conferences, talk to Your Iceland Tour Expert to make the most of your experience in Iceland. 3

Our Iceland Tour Experts

24 HOUR BOOKING SERVICE Contact information: Tel. +354 540 1313 | iceland@grayline.is | grayline.is

With over 25 years of experience in operating tours around the country and the sheer passion for helping you discover new destinations, we make every effort to provide you with enjoyable, comfortable and rewarding travel experiences.

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Let’s go explore Want to see the sights? You can get some fantastic ideas from our activity guide.

Traditional Icelandic Lunch

and a spectacular view over mountains and glacier

Let’s go eat 33 Feeling hungry? Check out our great selection of restaurants, cafes and bars. Let’s go local 53 Looking for something authentic? Introducing Icelandic specialties, from tender lamb to to top tomatoes. Let’s go Old Harbour 63 Going downtown? We share some highlights of Reykjavik´s old harbour quarter - a day out in itself.

Gullfoss Café welcomes you

to our warm and friendly restaurant. We are located just few steps away from the famous waterfall Gullfoss. It’s about 120 km away from Reykjavík. Open all day, 9 am to 6 pm, all year around.

Let’s go Skólavörðustigur 75 A colourful little street, it has a delightful personality of its own.

We offer you our famous icelandic meat soup, sandwiches, homemade cakes, excellent espresso coffee drinks and a nice salad.

Gullfoss Café has a tax free souvenir shop with good selection of wool products, high quality Cintamani and 66°N outdoor clothing and Icelandic handcraft.

Gullfoss CAFÉ

801 Bláskógabyggð · Tel: (+354) 486 6500 · Mobile: (+354) 899 3014 · www.gullfoss.is · gullfoss@gullfoss.is

Let’s go shop 87 Buying goodies or gifts? We know the best places for some retail therapy. Cover Photo: Kafhellir, Vestmannaeyjar Photographer: Snorri Þór Tryggvason

Copyright 2019: Frívöruverslunin SAXA. Allt efni í þessu blaði er verndað af ákvæðum höfundalaga. Ef ekki er til að dreifa samþykki Frívöruverslunarinnar Saxa er sérhver eintakagerð, notkun og dreifing efnisins óheimil nema með samþykki útgefanda. Notkun efnis, sem brýtur í bága við lög eða samninga getur haft bóta- og refsiábyrgð í för með sér. Hönnun / umbrot: G. Bjarki

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s go explore Whale watching, natural spas, glacier trips and horse-riding are just some of the exciting adventures on offer in Iceland. Art, culture and history can also be found in abundance, so read on and get the most out of your visit.

was then the most basic of saunas – a tent erected over a crack in the ground where the steam billowed out. The tent became a small shed, and today we have the clean and rather larger lines of Myvatn Nature Baths.

Café Kvika Kvika, meaning molten lava or magma, is the name of the on-site café. Spacious, light and unmistakably Nordic. A great stop for light lunch or dinner and the outdoor terrace opens up your options on sunny days. Soups, salads, fresh sandwiches and freshly baked rolls are on the menu, along with cakes, cookies and croissants. For a local twist, try the Hot spring bread with delicious smoked arctic char.

Mývatn nature baths

The road to Mývatn

A New Nordic delight Steam Rising There is an almost indescribable pleasure in soaking up the warmth of steamy geothermal waters under open skies. Relaxing and uplifting, the experience at Myvatn Nature Baths is especially enriched by the calm and friendly feel of the place and its closeness to nature. The two steam baths are built directly over a geothermal area, and clouds of white steam rise gently from a fissure deep in the ground through vents in the floor. Humidity is close to 100% and the temperature is typically around 50°C, so alternating your time with the outdoor shower helps to make your skin tingle. At the heart of the complex is the shimmering pool of milky blue geothermal water. A manmade, yet beautiful structure, it utilises water drawn locally from depths of 10

up to 2,500m. A surreal panoramic backdrop of mountains and lava fields adds the final, magical touch.

At one with nature Despite its northerly location, Myvatn enjoys a temperate climate, and the long summer days when darkness never comes can be surprisingly warm. As summer merges into autumn, the landscape becomes a patchwork of gold and brown, while winter brings snow, sparkling frosts, and frequent opportunities to enjoy the unforgettable Northern Lights. Whether you are hiking in the area, generally exploring or just passing through, the Nature Baths are a great place to soak up the scenery and unwind. Order a drink and have it served to you while you bathe – how nice is that!

Healthy Hotspot The water contains a large amount of minerals and is well suited for bathing. Its chemical composition and alkalinity mean undesirable bacteria and vegetation are unable to thrive, so chloride and other disinfectants are thankfully unnecessary. Geothermal water is sulphurous; hence the eggy smell (sorry)! It’s best not to wear silver or brass jewellery in the water, as it can tarnish quickly. But on the plus-side, sulphur is considered to have a positive influence on asthma and other respiratory diseases, while many of the trace elements in the water are thought to have a good effect on the skin. Even before all this knowledge was commonplace, the locals recognised a health spa when they saw one. For years and years they made their way here to what

Just a few km from Mývatn centre, famous for its serene lake and nature reserve, the Nature Baths are less crowded and perhaps more laid-back than similar hot-pools elsewhere, making the journey North more than worthwhile. To make your stay as enjoyable as possible, book your tickets online and select the timeslot that suits you best. The Nature Baths are open from 09:00 to midnight in the summertime and 12:00 to 22:00 in the wintertime. You can rent swimwear, towels and bathrobes and kids 12 years old and under go for free when accompanied by an adult. Myvatn Nature Baths Jardbadsholar, 660 Myvatn Tel: +354 464 4411 info@jardbodin.is

www.myvatnnaturebaths.is

Please book tickets online

from small-scale seasonal tours to all-year round adventures, helping to enhance the popularity of whale watching to the extent that it is now among the top three tourist activities in Iceland. More than 20 species of whale have been recorded in Icelandic waters – four of which are seen regularly in Faxaflói bay near Reykajvík – and the drama, joy and poetry of these beautiful creatures is simply unforgettable. A number of whale-watching combo tours incorporating horse-riding, rafting, biking, caving, snorkelling, the Northern Lights and the Imagine peace tower are also now available. Just check out the Elding website for more details.

Elding Whale Watching

Sustainable tourism at its best

Get closer to nature

The oldest, the biggest, and arguably the best, Elding is the original whale watching operator in Reykjavík. Talk to any of the team at this family-owned and operated business and you’ll see that for them, it’s much more than a business – it’s a way of life. Elding people have a deep understanding of the waters and marine life, and their collective knowledge and expertise never fails to create a memorable experience. Trained marine biologists are among the crews and Elding is the first and only environmentally-certified whale watching company in Iceland.

North and South - the Akureyri option Now based in Akureyri on the north coast, as well as in Reykjavik – look out for the red flags 12

down by the harbour – Elding is passionate about whales and their environment. For the last three to four years, Humpbacks have been gathering in tremendous numbers in the summer months around the north of Iceland, a natural phenomenon that Elding has been monitoring closely. If you’re thinking of heading north, talk to Elding about a whale watching adventure you will never forget.

Express excitement Elding offers two types of boats – The classic three hour tours have superb viewing platforms and comfortable indoor saloons with service such as cafeteria, heated indoor seating, lavatories as well as warm overalls and blankets. Jet-powered engines on the Ship of the North make for an even faster, yet super-quiet ride.

For the more adventurous souls, the Premium tours last two hours, but you get to the action quicker in rigid inflatable boats (RIBs). A more intimate experience in every sense, the RIBs only take 12 people tops. Their depth and flexible handling means passengers are closer to the ocean, and therefore closer to the whales themselves. Fast and light, they cover the area quicker, ensuring you spend more time up close and personal with these wondrous mammals. Great photo opportunities guaranteed.

Coastal pleasures Elding offers a variety of adventures at sea from whale and bird-watching (puffins in particular) to that finest of Icelandic traditions, sea angling. Over the years, the scope of its services has diversified

Environmentally-friendly and professional at every level, Elding does everything it can to maintain an essential ecological balance, while helping to conserve natural heritage and biodiversity. Its quality tours and facilities all meet exacting eco-standards and have been recognised by organisations such as Blue Flag, Earth Check (Platinium Certification) and the Icelandic Tourist Board (Vakinn Enviro Gold standard). Another reason why Elding whale watching and sea adventure tours are the most talked about in Iceland. Elding Whale Watching Ægisgarður 5, The Old Harbour 101 Reykjavík, +354 519 5000 elding@elding.is, www.elding.is

Snæfellsnes National Park Iceland’s landscapes in a nutshell

Snæfellsnes National Park Experience some of Iceland’s most striking sights on a guided day trip around Snæfellsnes, including black sand beaches, basalt cliffs, volcanic craters and the region’s crowning jewel: the spectacular Snæfellsnes glacier.

Contact information: Tel. +354 540 1313 iceland@grayline.is grayline.is

A Journey Like No Other

Iconic Landmarks

Travel with an expert guide to explore the stunning sights of Snæfellsnes National Park, a trip that’s often called Iceland in a nutshell for its vast array of varied and captiviating landscapes all on one peninsula. The journey takes you through stretches of black-sand beaches and dramatic basalt cliffs, deep fjords, rolling farmland and towering mountains. At the far end of the peninsula, we reach the prize – the majestic Snæfellsjökull glacier, which plays a major role in Jules Verne’s timeless classic “Journey to the Centre of the Earth”.

Leaving the crater, we’ll travel past more striking scenery on route to Grundarfjörður, a fishing village. Surrounded by exceptionally beautiful mountains, this is home to one of the Peninsula’s most photographed landmarks, the iconic symmetrical mountain Kirkjufell, which rises 1,500 ft. from the shoreline. From there, the route travels across Berserkjahraun lava fields. According to Viking legends, this was the spot where Swedish “Berserks” forged Iceland’s first road, allowing passage to the south side of the Peninsula through Vatnaleið pass.

Seals, Cliffs & Volcanoes From Reykjavik, you’ll head west on the scenic route to Borgarfjörður and the village of Borgarnes. On entering the Snæfellsnes peninsula, there is a chance to spot wildlife

from the beach, which is home to a variety of sea birds and a seal colony. The next stop is the idyllic village of Arnarstapi, where a walk along the shoreline offers views of the extraordinary cliffs of columnar basalt, an unusual rock formation that almost looks as if it has been sculpted by hand. After a stop for lunch in the village, the tour continues to Djúpalónssandur, a tranquil, blackpebbled beach. From the beach we travel to a volcanic crater for a taste of the violent geology that gave rise to this stunning landscape.

Make a splash!

City Thermal Pools, Icelandic style „Perfect Thermal Pools“ Most Icelanders feel like a fish out of water if they don’t get down to the local thermal pool and hot tub at least once a week. The public hot tubs are the equivalent of the British ‘pub’, or the Spanish tapas bar – the place to hang out with friends and talk politics, celebrate a birthday or just chill after a long day! Happily, Reykjavik is awash with great thermal-heated pools and their associated spa facilities – some modern, some architectural classics, all of them friendly and a truly wonderful way to relax. The entry is generally inexpensive, another reason to make a splash before leaving Iceland.

Perfect thermal pools Big thermal pools, little thermal pools, kid-friendly thermal pools – there’s something to suit everyone, and in a host of different locations, and you can get an offer – Ticket, Towel and Bathing suit for approximate 13 USD. Here A taste of three top pools, but for the complete lowdown location.

Sundhöllin The architect who designed this landmark building was Guðjón Samúelsson, one of Iceland’s best. It was with considerable effort and great pride that “the Swimming Palace” was constructed in 1937, and much of the original design remains. The elegant white building has a minimalist, art-deco feel with its tall rectangular windows and tiled changing rooms. It is a stone’s throw from the main shopping street Laugavegur. In december 2017, a new outdoor area was oened with it´s very own outdoor pool, several new hot tubs and following recent trends in Iceland, an Ice bath. Barónstígur 45a, Tel: (+354) 411 5350 Open: Mon-Fri 06:30-22:00, Sat-Sun 08:00 -22.00 www.reykjavik.is/sundlaugar

Vesturbæjarlaug Tucked away in the friendly 107 neighbourhood, the cosy Vesturbær thermal pool is one of the city’s most famous, and its newest hot tub is a firm favourite with tourists and locals alike. Along with an outdoor thermal pool and children’s pool,

it offers a waterslide, four hot tubs, and sauna. Oh and the coolest steam room for miles – a circular glass-walled affair that’s perfect to unwind in. Hofsvallagata, 107 Reykjavík, Tel: (+354) 411 5150 Open: Mon-Fri 06:30-22:00, Sat-Sun 09:00 -22:00 www.reykjavik.is/sundlaugar

Laugardalslaug Reykjavik’s biggest swimming facility, Laugardalslaug, built in 1968, it has been updated regularly and now features a unique saltwater hot tub heated to a delicious 40 °C. Kids (and adults too) adore the “Iceberg Challenge” – featuring an overhead rope mesh and ‘iceberg’ floats, which you have to get across without falling into the water. Other facilities include a 50m outdoor pool, children’s pool, numerous hot tubs and waterslides, the tallest of which is strikingly illuminated with LED lights. Sundlaugarvegur 30, 105 Reykjavík  Tel: (+354) 411 5100 Open: Mon-Fri 06:30-22:00, Sat-Sun 08:00-22:00 #reykjaviklovesthermalpools 17

Gentle Giants Whale Watching is owned by Stefán Guðmundsson and his family who have more than 150 years of history in the bay. We are very proud of our originality and yet always try to find new ways to develop.

New Tours in 2019

Gentle Giants Whale Watching Welcome Aboard for Memorable Adventures Would you like to encounter whales in the wild, see puffins or go sea kayaking? Then this is it. Gentle Giants offers whale watching and many other exciting seafaring adventures from Húsavík, “the Whale Capital of Iceland”. Gentle Giants Whale Watching operates a fleet of traditional Icelandic oak boats, modern RIB speedboats, a fibreglass boat and sea kayaks (new in 2019). This gives us the unique possibility to offer almost any kind of adventure at sea, both scheduled and private. Besides the bestselling whale watching, people from all corners of the world also join us for other memorable experiences, such as sea angling, bird watching and island excursions. What is your dream adventure? 18

Daily Scheduled Whale Watching of Your Choice Even among the daily scheduled whale watching we offer two tours on different types of boats so that our guests can choose what kind of experience they prefer. If you want a peaceful and traditional cruise, then our GG1 Whale Watching is the perfect tour. Here you step on board one of our old but beautifully renovated wooden, Icelandic fishing boats which are rebuilt into passenger vessels. If you prefer an exciting ride with even higher chances of finding whales and having close-up encounters, then the GG2 Big Whale Safari & Puffins on one of our five modern RIB speedboats is the tour for you. Here we also promise a more personal

experience, minimum environmental impact and a visit to Puffin Island during the nesting season April 15th – August 20th.

Our Hometown – the Whale Capital of Iceland Located in the picturesque fishing village Húsavík, on northeast Iceland, we have offered whale watching and other sea excursions since 2002. Our hometown is often called “the Whale Capital of Iceland” thanks to that we encounter whales on up to 99% of our tours and because of the broad variety of whale species that visit us over the season. You can learn more about the exciting lives of whales in the Húsavík Whale Museum where all of our passengers get 20% discount of the entrance fee.

One product launched for the 2019 season is our GG5 Yoga Retreat Flatey Island, suitable for yogis of all levels. On this tour you get to practise yoga and mindfulness in Icelandic wilderness together with an experienced yoga teacher, enjoy healthy food and meditate in midnight brightness. New in 2019 is also our sea kayaking tour, for you who want to paddle with us along the breathtaking coast of Skjálfandi Bay in brandnew sea kayaks and be one with Icelandic nature.

Why Choose Gentle Giants Our aim is to create memorable experiences while raising awareness about the gentle giants of the ocean and their habitat. The staff consists of both local and international people with various backgrounds and experiences who all share a passion for the sea and work hard to make every passenger feel good. As a result, Gentle Giants has been awarded with the Certificate of Excellence from TripAdvisor for the consecutive years: 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018, as well as the TripAdvisor Hall of Fame recognition in 2018.

Welcome Aboard!

www.gentlegiants.is info@gentlegiants.is +354 464 1500 Harbour Side 640 Húsavík

The land of renewable energy The raw, clean power of Iceland

Powering the future The interactive energy exhibition at Ljósafoss Power Station leads guests through the amazing world of electricity in fun and informative ways. Ljósafoss Power Station is situated in the Sog area near Lake Úlfljótsvatn, about an hour’s drive from Reykjavík.

Further information can be found at landsvirkjun.com/visitus.

A story to tell

Powering the future

To combat climate change, the world must reduce global energy consumption and accelerate the development of renewable energy generation. As humanity faces the task of transitioning from fossil fuels to renewable energy, Iceland has a story to tell. Our energy is generated from 100% renewable resources. We had our energy transition in the 20th century, and we can attest to the fact that such an achievement is attainable worldwide.

A short drive from Reykjavik, the Ljósafoss Power Station is a great place to experience the evolution of electricity and understand the significant steps the human race has taken to successfully harness this energy source. An intriguing and interactive exhibition called “Powering the Future” is open to visitors as part of the power station that was first established on the banks of the Ljósa waterfall some 80 years ago. Check out the latest renewable and sustainable energy generation methods used by Landsvirkjun, Iceland’s national power company.

Geothermal inspiration Today, all of the country’s electricity comes from renewable resources; hydro, wind and geothermal. Around 70% is currently generated by hydro power, and the rest by geothermal and wind power.

What’s more, geothermal energy provides heating and hot water for the majority of buildings in Iceland. This renewable energy has helped to inspire numerous entrepreneurial companies in sectors as diverse as genetics, healthrelated tourism and fish farming. It plays an essential role in growing vegetables throughout the year in geothermal greenhouses, as well as providing enjoyment in the form of geothermal pools all around Iceland.

Ljósafoss Power Station Selfoss 801 visit.us@landsvirkjun.is +354 896 7407 www.landsvirkjun.com/company/visitus 21

South Iceland

Iconic Sights, Wild Adventures

South Iceland Adventures Sensational adventures await you on the stunning South Coast! Get your blood pumping with glacier hikes, snowmobiling, exploring on ATVs, paragliding and more.

Contact information: Tel. +354 540 1313 iceland@grayline.is grayline.is

Waterfalls and Glaciers

Reynisfjara & Beyond

The striking South Coast boasts many of Iceland’s most iconic sights and popular attractions. With its proximity to Reykjavík, diverse landscapes and stunning views, the region has become a wildly popular destination for visitors. Coastal tours makes stops at the picturesque waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, one of the island’s largest waterfalls. Another top attraction on the South Coast is Vatnajökull, one of the largest glaciers in Europe. Gray Line offers a unique opportunity to explore the ice cap on tours that venture deep into the glacier through a natural ice cave.

The shoreline at Reynisfjara offers a stunning black beach with incredible rock formations, looming cliffs, caves and the magnificent Reynisdrangar basalt sea stacks. Explore and learn a little about the fascinating history of the region on the South Iceland, Waterfalls & Black Sand Beach tour.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon Four of Gray Line’s South Coast itineraries bring you to the magnificent Jökulsárlón

glacier lagoon. One of Iceland’s most visually striking attractions, it is a favored landscape by photographers and filmmakers around the world, and has been immortalized in films like A View to a Kill and Batman Begins. Choose from frequent day tours or take a longer two-day combo trip such as South Coast, Glacier Lagoon & Ice Cave and South Coast, Glacier Lagoon & Glacier Hike.

Feeling Adventurous? Check out the South Iceland Sightseeing & ATV Adventure for a four-wheeler romp across the lava sands. Or get to know the glacier on a hike across the ice on the South Iceland & Glacier Hike Adventure or the back of a snowmobile with the South Coast & Snowmobile Adventure —the possibilities for excitement in South Iceland are endless! 23

Árbær Open Air Museum

Glacier Jeeps

– Spend a day out of time

Ice, jeeps and adventure Whether you have an hour to spare or days to explore, Glacier Jeeps will take you on a journey of a lifetime - into Iceland’s extraordinary Vatnajökull. Europe’s largest glacier and the continent’s biggest national park, Vatnajökull covers an amazing 13,000 square kilometres and boasts an unparalleled array of stunning natural phenomena. From stupendous waterfalls and monumental cliffs rising 100m into the air, to undulating plateaux, breathtaking geysers and racing glacial rivers, this volcanic wonderland of ice and fire will amaze you. The best way to experience this awe-inspiring wilderness is in the expert hands of Glacier Jeeps and its bespoke off-roading tours – by specially adapted jeeps, snowmobiles and glacier hiking. With humbling intuitive understanding of these rugged landscapes, 24

the GJ guides know the best ways to discover Vatnajökull’s extreme and varied terrain.

And arranging your adventure could not be easier. GJ can devise itineraries according to your needs and can collect you from convenient points around the national park. Our guides are both extremely knowledgeable and extremely friendly; this is the ideal way to get to know one of Iceland’s most outstanding areas of natural beauty, and its local people. Delicious meals are arranged – and eating at Jöklasel should not be missed. At an altitude of 840m, this is the highest restaurant in Iceland, and offers superb vistas across the

mountain-scapes. You can enjoy fine dining or even pre-book a lavish seafood buffet for your group, served outdoors on blocks of glacial ice! As an insight into some of Iceland’s most precious natural pearls and most heart-stopping panoramas, a trip with Glacier jeeps cannot be recommended highly enough. Vatnajökull’s scenic grandeur and indescribable beauty has a magnetic influence on all visitors. You already know what snow looks like – mountains and waterfalls too. But when you’re on Vatnajökull, they are like nothing you’ve ever witnessed before. You can come prepared for the weather, but you can never prepare yourself for this adventure. Tours offer all year around Turn from highway one to F985 To find out more, visit www.glacierjeeps.is or telephone +(354) 478 1000

As you wander around downtown Reykjavik, with its modern fashion boutiques and roads packed with 4X4 jeeps, you’d be hard pressed to imagine what life was like here in the not so distant past. Around 1870, Reykjavik, which is now home to some 120,000 people, was populated by just a couple of thousands. As the town grew in affluence, genteel houses furnished with the latest Danish fripperies sprung up among the wood and stone houses with their turf roofs and simple charm. Árbær is the name of a long established farm that used to be a bit outside Reykjavik. Today the city has grown around it, so it is within the city boundaries. Árbær contains Iceland’s largest open-air museum: Árbæjarsafn or Árbær Open Air Museum.

Árbæjarsafn possesses a gentle kind of magic that transports you back to a time worth exploring. With great foresight, the City of Reykjavik established the museum in 1957, basing it around the ancient farmstead. The aim was to preserve and share with future generations some of the country’s older houses and buildings before they became swallowed up by urban renewal or neglect. Plank by plank and stone by stone, various structures were dismantled, brought to Árbær and lovingly rebuilt on the site. One of the first was the tiny church, originally built in 1842 in Skagafjörður, north Iceland, and moved in 1959. The majority of the houses used to stand in downtown Reykjavik, the oldest being Hansen’s house, a beautiful timber house, built around 1823.

Experience the past

Long-forgotten arts and skills

Offering a unique insight into the architecture and lifestyle of Reykjavik’s past, the museum is a wonderful place to lose yourself for a few hours. Whatever your age or interests.

The real beauty of Árbæjarsafn is the way the buildings take on a life of their own; you can almost sense and hear their former inhabitants going about their business in the aptly furnis-

hed rooms. Throughout the summer there are farm animals grazing and long-forgotten arts and skills are demonstrated by Icelanders who connected to the old way of life. Regular events include Handicraft, National Costumes and Haymaking days, and the annual Christmas celebrations are a true delight. A goldsmith’s workshop and traditional printing press are among the exhibits. Also the museum opens new special exhibitions of various kinds every year.

Take a break

You can sample freshly made pancakes in Dillon‘s house during summer, and relax over a cup of coffee. And the old fashioned sweet and souvenir shop makes the perfect end to a perfect day. Opening hours: June, July and August – daily 10:00-17.00 Sept-May – 13:00-17:00 Guided tours daily year around at 13.00 Árbæjarsafn, Kistuhyl, 110 Reykjavik Tel: (+354) 411 6300 www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is #reykjaviklovescitymuseum

Art,Culture and Sculpture Reykjavík Art Museum

For a small nation, Iceland has given birth to an incredible array of artists. Their rich and continuing legacy is bursting with colour and form, frequently evocative of a wild and beautiful homeland.

Gljúfrasteinn

Where the fish can sing

The name Halldór Laxness is a familiar one in Iceland. The renowned author, beloved by many in Iceland and beyond, wrote countless novels and plays before his death in 1998. Intriguing titles such as The Atom Station and The Fish Can Sing reflect a magical literary world, with tender stories of ordinary lives and Iceland’s distinctive, sometimes-surreal environment. Gljúfrasteinn is Laxness’ home. Tucked away in the green grey valley of Mosfellsdalur, it is only 20 minutes from Reykjavik en route to Thingvellir national park. Home to the NobelPrize winning author and his family for more than half a century, the house is now open to the public as a museum, unchanged from when Laxness lived and worked there. As well 26

as learning more about the man, visitors are encouraged to wander in the garden and surrounding countryside, a source of much inspiration in his later life. Described as the last national writer in the Western world, the Icelandic people followed Laxness’ every move for decades. A type of father figure at a time when literature was important for the nation’s self-image, he was viewed by many as a worthy literary successor to the medieval masters who penned Iceland’s legendary sagas. Often a controversial figure, Laxness made no secret of his political views and ideals. Running through his works are recurring themes of hope and truth, a disdain for politicians and the comic aspects of even the most tragic situations. His sympathies invariably lay with the underdog.

A prolific writer, Laxness’ stories such as Independent People remain hauntingly evocative of a small but proud nation. The Fish Can Sing is his own gentle tribute to “the hidden people, the ordinary ‘unspoilt’ people who foster all peaceful human virtues”. Unmissable. Opening hours: Summer: june 1st - agust 31 st Daily between 09:00 - 17:00 Winter: september 1st - may 31st Tuesdays to sundays 10:00 - 16:00 Closed during weekends from november until end of february. Group tours available by appointment. Audio tours of the house available in Icelandic, English, German and Swedish). A folder is available in French. Tel: (+354) 586 8066 www.gljufrasteinn.is

Reykjavík is a great place to drink in this inspirational aspect of Icelandic life. The Reykjavik Art Museum exhibits Icelandic and international art in three different locations. Each location has its own distinctive character. By visiting one or all three museums you can experience Icelandic art history and enjoy the most prominent contemporary artists.

Hafnarhús The old harbour warehouse, Hafnarhús, offers a progressive exhibition program with local and international contemporary artists. The works of key figures, as well as established and emerging current artists are presented in six galleries. Hafnarhús is also home to the works of Erró (b. 1932), a significant player in the international pop art scene. Hafnarhús is located in the oldest part of Reykjavik, where the town’s boats and first docks lay. The building was erected in the

1930s and at the time it was one of the largest buildings in the country. It was renovated by Studio Grandi architects in 1998-2000 and has six gallery spaces and a courtyard. Hafnarhús hosts numerous festivals throughout the year. Its unique atmosphere is the perfect backdrop for events such as Iceland Airwaves. There is a well stocked shop, where Icelandic design, catalouges and casts can be bought. Hafnarhús Tryggvagata 17, 101 Reykjavík, tel: +354 411 6410 Open daily 10 -17 Thu 10 - 22

Kjarvalsstaðir

Named after one of Iceland’s most beloved artists Jóhannes S. Kjarval (1885-1972), Kjarvalsstaðir always has works from its namesake’s collection on display. Kjarval was a living legend, a romantic bohemian who captured the beauty and mystical quality of the landscape he knew so well. An imposing

For information on all three museums and current exhibitions visit www.artmuseum.is or telephone +354 411 6400

building set in beautiful grounds in the city centre, Kjarvalsstaðir also has regular exhibitions of Icelandic and international art, architecture and design with a special emphasis on 20th century. The beautifully situated café boasts Icelandic designed furniture and floor to ceiling glass walls for a peaceful lunch or coffee stop. The museum shop has selection of Icelandic design, catalogues and casts. Kjarvalsstaðir, Klambratún park Flókagata 24, 105 Reykjavík tel: +354 4116420, open daily 10-17

Ásmundarsafn The Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum is dedicated to the sculpture and drawings of one of the pioneers of sculpture in Iceland, Ásmundur Sveinsson (1893-1982). His works are on display both inside and outside the building, the former home of the artist. Sveinsson designed and constructed this remarkable building largely by himself, incorporating Arabic and Mediterranean influences. Situated in the peaceful Laugardalur, it is a short busride from the city centre. Ásmundarsafn, Sigtún, 105 Reykjavík tel: +354 4116430 Open daily May - Sept. 10-17 Oct. - April 13-17

Icelandic Cuisine

Get to know Iceland one bite at a time with fun and informative food tours Traditional Icelandic Cuisine

Game of Thrones The weather may be warming up in Iceland, but winter is coming to Westeros! Walk in the footsteps of characters from Game of Thrones and visit some of the stunning backdrops that help bring the show’s fantasy world to life.

Contact information: Tel. +354 540 1313 iceland@grayline.is grayline.is

Icelandic cuisine has an intriguing history and we love introducing visitors to our food culture. Both the Delicious Golden Circle Private Food Tour and the Delicious West Coast Private Tour offer visitors an eye-opening (and finger-licking) taste of Iceland’s fascinating food heritage. Extreme conditions meant that early settlers in Iceland had to get a little creative about preserving food for the long, dark winters, which is how heritage foods like putrefied shark, pickled ram testicles and blood pudding won their shelf space in the nation’s larder. In recent years, however, the country’s chefs have breathed new life into Icelandic cuisine, combining modern methods and flavors with high quality local ingredients. Seafood has long been a staple in the national diet, while other native foods include lamb, blueberries,

rhubarb, mushrooms and herbs, not to mention Icelandic dairy products like skyr.

with whipped cream and rhubarb jelly as well as other local delicacies.

Delicious Golden Circle Private Food Tour

Delicious West Coast Private Tour

This delicious private tour combines the stunning natural attractions of the popular Golden Circle with a taste of nature’s bounty. Efstidalur is a dairy farm run by its third generation of food lovers — a great place to sample a variety of homemade Icelandic dairy foods. After a stop at the arresting Gullfoss waterfall and Geysir geothermal area with its erupting hot springs, we visit Friðheimar Greenhouse, an innovative, family-run operation that grows geothermal tomatoes year round. On the way back to Reykjavík we make a welcome stop at Íslenski Bærinn, a traditional Icelandic turf house, to indulge in some homemade treats like Icelandic pancakes

This delicious journey takes you to a number of scenic spots, calling on food-focused farms between stops. First stop is Háafell goat farm, where you can find out everything there is to know about the Icelandic goat and taste the creamy local goats cheese. On to Húsafell, where lunch awaits, and then the very picturesque Hraunfossar, a series of waterfalls streaming out of a lava field. From there we head to Steðji for a fab beer tasting session. This wonderful micro-brewery is named after the intriguing rock formation outside its doors. Finally, we visit the family farm Bjarteyjarsandur for some of Iceland’s finest organic local food grown in a sustainable manner. 29

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND THE CULTURE HOUSE

WELCOME TO THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND

WELCOME TO THE CULTURE HOUSE Points of view: A journey through the visual world of Iceland.

The National Museum of Iceland Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík

The Culture House Hverfisgata 15, 101 Reykjavík

Opening Hours Daily 10–17 Closed on Mondays 16/9–30/4

www.nationalmuseum.is +354 530 2200 @icelandnationalmuseum @thjodminjasafn

The National Museum of Iceland Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík

The Culture House Hverfisgata 15, 101 Reykjavík

Opening Hours Daily 10–17 Closed on Mondays 16/9–30/4

www.nationalmuseum.is +354 530 2200 @icelandnationalmuseum @thjodminjasafn

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s go eat Sophisticated restaurants or cosy cafes, Iceland has it allâ&#x20AC;Ś From delicious, fresh seafood to tender meats and contemporary cuisine, the choice is simply mouth-watering!

The Lobsterhouse

Lækjarbrekka

A history of fine dining

A classic restaurant in the heart of Reykjavík Lækjarbrekka is a classic restaurant situated in the centre of Reykjavík in one of the oldest buildings in the city. The building has a remarkable history and has been a restaurant for over thirty years, since october 10th 1981. The chefs at Lækjarbrekka strive to create the most delicious meals from the best possible ingredients and to provide first class service. The waiters try to ensure that all guests leave the restaurant thoroughly satisfied.

Everything from appetisers and vegetable dishes to sumptuous meat and fish dishes. There is something for all tastes. Lækjarbrekka also hire out two banquet halls, one with room for 45 people and the other for up to 90 people. Suitable for every occasion. dishes, such as soup or salad as well as fish and chicken dishes.

Lunch and dinner

In the afternoon the restaurant takes on a café atmosphere and a range of small dishes, sandwiches, coffee and cakes are available.

Lækjarbrekka offers a diverse menu from lunchtime to evening, seven days a week. At lunchtime, the emphasis is on light, fresh

The evening menu consists of variety of dishes, which is the name of the game.

Lækjarbrekka is open from 11:30 - 23:00, Seven days a week For reservations, please call 551 4430 Lækjarbrekka, Bankastræti 2. 101 Reykjavík Telephone: (+354) 551 4430, Fax: (+354) 552 8684, E-mail: info@laekjarbrekka.is

Fine dining, friendly service, outstanding chefs, exquisite food presented with panache and a beautiful, ideally located building that is simultaneously oozing with history and a contemporary feel, the list goes on. If you’re trying to decide on a Reykjavik restaurant for a memorable meal, The Lobsterhouse stands out for all the right reasons.

lashings of French style. A la carte offers attractive fish and shellfish plates, not to mention another local favourite increasingly in demand, horse fillet. The desserts are delightful with strawberry crumble and pistachio ice-cream a particularly pretty affair, accompanied by blood orange ice cream and Italian meringue

Finest Icelandic lobster

An authentic pleasure

Nouvelle Nordic, the Lobsterhouse chefs are passionate about gourmet Nordic food, with a subtle French twist for added finesse. They have created gorgeous menus to suit many tastes, including hot favourite the ‘Langoustine Feast, a delectable selection of Icelandic Lobster dishes, and ‘French Days’ in march, a classy set menu with

The restaurant is located at the heart of ‘Bernhöftstorfa’, an old quarter of Reykjavik dating back to the city’s earliest days. Built in 1838, The Lobsterhouse itself has seen many comings and goings, and it has been a favoured spot for fine dining for several decades. Today the wooden interior, with its warm and inviting

atmosphere, attracts as many locals as it does visitors to the city. Its downtown location provides the ideal opportunity to combine a special dinner with a concert at Harpa concert hall, or maybe a less formal lunch with a romantic stroll around the city lake. From April of this year, there is also a French-inspired brunch with appetising lite-bites such as eggs Benedict, French toasts and a charcuterie selection – the perfect start to any day. The Lobsterhouse Amtmannsstíg 1, 101 Reykjavík +354 561 3303 bookings@thelobsterhouse.is, www.thelobsterhouse.is Mon-Sat 11:30-15:00 and 17:00-22:00 Sun: 17:00-22:00 Seats 70, banquet rooms available for groups Book ahead to avoid disappointment

The Irishman Pub

Le Kock

Music, Karaoke and Friends

Street food, Icelandic Style Fast and fabulous Le Kock is all about great street-food, cooked beautifully and served with a smile. The three friends and foodies who masterminded Le Kock have put their professional experience as chefs to work, capturing nostalgic flavours from their youth and their travels to craft the very best of Icelandic street food. Starting out with a modest burger joint, pop-ups and then a bakery, the trio has now taken downtown Reykjavik by storm, giving locals and tourists a chance to sample its totally satisfying and happily affordable creations.

Icelandic burger supremoes With a much-deserved reputation as the burger gurus of Iceland, Le Kock has nailed the concept of gourmet fast-food. The menu is reinvented on a regular basis, but you’ll 36

always find some delicious staples, including chowder and fish ‘n’ chips. Alongside a choice of mouth-watering burgers, the roasted and salt-crusted fries come with toppings that range from Feta, peanuts and spring onions, to basil, chilli and crispy porkbelly. The portions are generous and flavours are fulsome.

Homemade and heavenly Located in downtown Reykjavík by the harbour, Le Kock’s casual and cosy interior is

as simple and unpretentious as its offering. Everything is made in-house, right down to the burger buns. The Deig “Dough” Workshop is another string to Le Kock’s bow, a heart-warming venture that bakes delicious doughnuts, bagels, bread and more. On sale daily, until stocks run out, the amazing and highly sought-after doughnuts include crème brulee, lemon meringue, salty liquorice and chocolate – don’t leave it too late! “Phenomenal food and donuts… my new favorite place in which to spend every dollar I can spare.” Le Kock Tryggvagata 14, Reykjavík 101 [Also at Armúli 42, Reykjavík 108] lekock@lekock.is www.lekock.is No reservations Open daily 11:30-22:00

Enjoy the craic The thriving pub and bar culture in Reykjavík continues to expand, boosted by the opening of the Irishman, a relaxed and welcoming pub in the best Irish tradition. Its unassuming retro décor includes a darts board for your targeted amusement and a wheel of fortune – take a spin and maybe you’ll win, beers or shots, or maybe not. It’s usually a win-win scenario at the Irishman, with great value drinks and the pub’s signature beverage, Irish Coffee, arguably the best on the island.

Raise the bar The beer selection is extensive, with popular names such as Gull, Tuborg Classic, Boli, Kronenbourg Blanc, Kilkenny´s, Guinness, Úlfur, Myrkvi and Snorri, all on draft. Spirits

and Irish malts are naturally on offer, along with a wide range of bottled beers including seasonal local microbrews. The bartenders are dab-hands at cocktails too – take your pick from White Russian specials, Tom Collins, WhEURey Sours and Margaritas with a twist, among others.

A long and happy Happy Hour! When you’ve had a chance to checkout drinks prices in Iceland, you’ll appreciate

even more the joys of a happy hour that lasts an incredible 7 hours, from 12 noon until 7pm! You can add to the fun and hire out the karaoke room for 6,500 EUR an hour. It can take up to 20 people and there are some great inclusive deals on drinks for larger groups. And for those who prefer to listen to talented Icelandic performers, there is live music every night from Thursday to Sunday. Sláinte!

The Irishman Pub Klapparstígur 27 Reykjavík 101 +354 581 2020 info@irishman.is www.theirishmanpub.is Open Sun – Thurs 11:00-01:00, Fri – Sat 11:00-04:00 37

The Viking Village The world of the Vikings The Viking Village is located in the lovely old fishing town Hafnarfjörður, just 10 minutes drive from Reykjavik.

Viking Village Restaurants Fjörugarðurinn and Fjaran restaurants are open for dinner guests from 18:00 daily. The emphasis is on the Viking era. Entering the restaurants is like stepping into the world of the Vikings. The decor is in the true Vikingstyle and traditional Icelandic cuisine is served in old fashioned wood trays. Waiters and waitresses are dressed in authentic Viking clothing and serve meals with flair. During these famous feasts there is not a dull moment and the guests can expect various treats and surprises offered by the singing Valkyries and Vikings. The fun reaches its height when the Head-Viking 38

Víkingastræti 1-3 220 Hafnarfjörður Tel.: 565-1213 Fax: 565-1891 mottaka@fjörukrain.is mottaka@vikingvillage.is www.fjörukrain.is

Víkingastræti 1-3 • 220 Hafnarfjörður • Sími: 565 1213 • mottaka@fjorukrain.is

crowns one guest as an Honorary Viking. Popular, with both tourists and locals. Due to demand, it is advisable to book as early as possible as places disappear fast.

Viking Village Hotel The Hotel Viking has 42 rooms furnished in a Viking and West Nordic theme. Every room has a private bathroom, flat screen TV and wireless internet connection complimentary. All rooms are equipped with a water boiler for a tea or coffee making. In addition, 14 comfortable Viking cottages are available equiped like the rooms, with satellite TV, bathroom, hairdryers and other comforts. A free parking is available for hotel guests in front of the hotel. In the hotel lobby, a souvenir shop, offering fine art and crafts from Iceland, Greenland and the Faroe Island.

The Cave The Cave bar, where the well known „Viking kidnappings“ for groups is located at the restaurant. These performances are well organised and managed by the Vikings in a unique surrounding in the Cave, which is loaded with various special effects.

For booking and further information: www.vikingvillage.is tel: +(354) 565 1213 39

The Danish Pub

Lebowski Bar

When in Iceland, meet the locals

The Reykjavík venue that rocks! Yeah, well. The Dude abides

Walking into this American retro bar is like steping back in time. Lebowski Bar ties the room together by choosing carefully the right music atmosphere which consists of classic rock that varies from 50´s – 80´s and keeps the good vibration that the Dude would definitely abide to! Just walk in to see what condition your condition is in… “We get all kinds of people here,” the staff proudly explains. “Icelanders, tourists, everybody. And our customers range from age 20 to 85, because our food and music suit everyone.” Lebowski Bar prides itself most on is its delicious, diner-style menu: filling, one-ofa-kind burgers, thick and creamy milkshakes, and oh yeah, White Russians. There are no less than 24 different kinds of this famous coctail, so make sure to order one from the bar. 40

Where’s the Burger, Lebowski?

Made with 150 grams of beef, that’s more than a quarter pound, for the metricallychallenged, Lebowski Bar’s classic burgers always hit the spot and boast a tempting array of toppings and sauces, from chilimarinated bacon to Japanese mayo. With its perfect balance of sweet and savory, the Honey Boo, a honey-glazed bacon and BBQ-sauce burger, has been called “the best bacon burger in town”. The Other Lebowski, a steak burger made from extra juicy beef tenderloin, is a staff favorite. Burgers are clearly the house specialty, looking for non-beefy options? Lebowski Bar has something for you, too. Try the Bunny Lebowski chicken burger, or The Stranger veggie burger. And if looking for something lighter, there plenty of bar snacks - from

cheese-stuffed jalapeños to onion rings, to enjoy with your beer.

You’re Not Wrong, Walter

A Dj every night from 9 p.m. All big Sport events are shown on all 5 Full HD tv screens. “This Reykjavík place is mind bending,” Trip Advisor user Graham enthused after a recent visit. “The burgers are massive, the chips chunky and the beers and White Russians flow. There’s a happy hour to bring down Iceland’s high prices, and regular bands playing to bring the film’s rockin’ ethos to life.”

The Lebowski Bar, Laugavegur 20a +354 552 2300, info@lebowskibar.is, www.lebowskibar.is #lebowskibar Open 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs and 11:00 – 04:30 Fri/Sat

The place to party

A vibrant place on the Reykjavík social scene is Den Danske kro, or “The Danish pub”. A popular down town venue amongst the locals with happy hour and live music every night. Den Danske kro serves a variety of beers, in addition to familiar names such as Tuborg and Carlsberg the Danish pub serves a selection of seasonal beers from both Denmark and Iceland. During the christmas months Den Danske kro is the home of the Tuborg christmas beer or “Julebryg” which is a popular demand in Iceland during the darkest months.

Cosy Copenhagen style The Danes have a special word to describe a cosy, friendly atmosphere - “hyggelig” and that’s something the owners of the Danish

Den Danske kro is a popular venue with locals, and soon as happy hour kicks off the place starts filling up with locals from the neighborhood and other locals that want to finish the workday with a cold beer. Every night there’s live music where you can request your favourite all timer! pub have worked hard to create in this home from home within a pub. Check out the house within the pub - off - the - wall- design in it most literal sense! Den Danske kro is a great place to hang out with friends, play some darts, watch sports, enjoy the occasional sun and watch the world go by on the outside terrace. We recommend you try a glass of the customary Gammel Dansk bitters, a traditional Danish schnapps.

Happy hour The pub is extremely popular amongst locals and tourists alike. The daily happy hour from 16:00 - 19:00 always attracts guests. Ingólfsstræti 3, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 0070, www.dendanskekro.is #dendanskekro Opening hours: Sun-Thurs. 12:00 – 01:00 Fri-Sat. 12:00 – 04:30 41

Restaurant Reykjavik

The English Pub

Celebrating all things Icelandic!

Save water, drink beer! For years, Iceland has enjoyed a diverse selection of restaurants and often sophisticated bars. However, one tiny grumble occasionally surfaced from the country’s Anglophiles – simply that there was no proper “pub”.

border and also offers the finest selection of whEURies anywhere in the country. Acclaimed assortment of malts includes many of Scotland’s finest, ensuring numerous Icelanders and worldly travellers make the pilgrimage to the pub’s humble door.

And so the English Pub was born. From modest beginnings it has built a hearty reputation, seeking out, with the advice and guidance of its dedicated customers, the finest ale available to mankind. Today it offers its enthusiastic clientele the chance to try a great variety of beers, foreign brands, as well as many local beers that are a must try.

Located at the very heart of downtown Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

WhEURy galore Not content to rest on its laurels, the English Pub has ventured north of its virtual 42

A sporting chance Live sporting coverage is amply catered for, with a choice of six big screens and two TV screens. Inside the pub there is room for up to 150 people, and an outdoor terrace can accommodate plenty more on those balmy

Icelandic evenings! Whether it is football (Premier and Champions League), rugby or golf, there are always special offers when live events are being broadcast. Live music every night adds to the atmosphere. In addition to the happy hour from 16 - 19 every day, the ones feeling lucky, there is the Wheel of Fortune. Regulars like nothing more than to spin the wheel and chance a “Sorry” or preferably win what used to be called a Yard of Ale. These days, it’s inevitably known as a metre of beer, but the winners don’t seem to mind!

The English Pub Austurstræti 12,101 Reykjavik info@enskibarinn.is, www.enskibarinn.is 12:00 -01:00 sun -thu 12:00 - 04:30 fri -sat

The adventure starts here

A taste of history

Located at the very heart of the city, it takes only seconds to spot the distinctive sunshine-yellow frontage of Restaurant Reykjavik, a great place to eat, drink and watch the world go by. This is the place for people with adventurous palates to come and sample everything Icelandic – from tender roast leg of lamb to shark meat, and liquorice herring to cured Minke whale, not to mention blackened salmon. You can have fresh shellfish cooked and sizzling at your table. The “seafood buffet” as it is known (predominantly seafood, but lots of meat and salad options too), has something for everyone, and it is a fabulous way to explore the many foods and flavours of Icelandic cuisine.

This beautiful building dates back to around 1860, when it was a gateway to the city. It has always been a bustling hub for fishermen, traders and travellers from around Iceland and abroad, its role alternating over the years between warehouse, shop, offices and nightclub. Today, it’s one of the largest and most fashionable restaurants in town. Inside, it’s spacious, light and dotted with period features and contemporary art.

For the love of seafood Restaurant Reykjavik is hugely popular with tourists and locals alike. The fixed-price buffet is famous throughout the city and offers around 40 dishes to choose from.

The aromatic fish stew is popular, as are appetisers such as seafood pate, tiger shrimps in spicy rice and smoked whale meat. Delicious mains include beef cheeks, blue mussels, and the very Icelandic ‘salted cod’. Rhubarb cake and Skyr mousse are among the tempting desserts, and the ice-cream selection is in demand. Evenings are when the main buffet event happens, although there is also a great “light lunch buffet” now available from 11:30 – 14:30 – a hot course, soup, pasta salad and dessert – ideal for city wanderers. Restaurant Reykjavík Vesturgata 2 101 Reykjavík + 354 552 3030 restaurant@restaurantreykjavik.is www.restaurantreykjavik.is Open daily: 11:30 - 22:00

Jómfrúin

Geysir Bistro & Bar

Time for something different

A plateful of goodness Whether or not you have been to its hotwater namesake in the South, the Geysir Bistro & Bar is a great excursion in its own right. Situated in the heart of Rekjavík, this delightful bistro offers good food at a good price, attracting locals as well as tourists with its laid-back and very comfortable feel.

Firm favourites There is something for everyone in Geysir’s varied menu. From classic burgers to tenderloin steaks, it covers a pretty wide spectrum of Icelandic favourites and familiar continental choices. The fish and lamb specialities are always worth sampling, with delicious soups and sandwiches available for the smaller appetite. And if you wake up hungry at the weekend, the Saturday/Sunday brunch from 11.30am is a real winner. 44

Eat, plan, drink Geysir Bistro & Bar is right by the main tourist information centre, downtown. So pick up a pile of leaflets and maps to digest, and plan your next moves over a leisurely meal or drink

Watch the world go by The service is friendly, and although quicklyserved dishes are on offer for busy people, many diners prefer to relax over a drink and a gently cooked plateful of goodness. Housed, as it is, in one of Reykjavik’s most historic buildings, it’s certainly a great place to relax. The tall, wide windows in this 100-year-old venue provide the perfect opportunity for people-watching, while the stylish modern furnishings blend with the traditional interior to create a charming atmosphere.

Geysir Bistro & Bar Aðalstræti 2, 101 Reykjavík By the Tourist Information Centre, corner of Adalstraeti and Vesturgata Tel: + 354 517 4300 www.geysirbistrobar.is Open daily from 11.30am till late The restaurant can accommodate up to 90 people Choice of group /party menus available

Combining the mouthwatering tradition of Danish open sandwiches with an innovative Icelandic twist, Jómfrúin is a hugely popular restaurant in the centre of Reykjavík. Start with a slice of fresh bread and pile it high with a bit of this and a bit of that – the choice is endless and always lovingly prepared in the best ‘smørrebrød’ tradition. Owner Jakob E. Jakobsson is maintaining a family tradition, having taken over the reins from his father, the first ever male “smørrebrødsjomfru”. Advance booking recommended!

Top toppings Smörrebröd creations such as the Trout Roe – served with crème fraiche, black pepper, egg yolk and a dram of Brennivin – are “so good you can hear the angels sing”, as they say in Denmark. Salmon, herring, eel, ham

The restaurant proudly offers one of the widest selections of akvavit (aquavit) in the North. The classic Nordic schnapps is a clear spirit with predominant flavours of caraway or dill – the perfect accompaniment to Danish Smörrebröd.

All that jazz and lamb are among the regular topping options, or you might opt for a hot dish, some delicious frikadeller (Danish meatballs) perhaps. The house favourite is fried plaice on rye, topped with smoked salmon and caviar, shrimp, asparagus and lemon. And for simple comfort food you can’t go wrong with biksemad, a Danish-style hash topped with fried eggs. Whatever you pick, you can expect high quality ingredients, beautiful presentation and friendly service.

Jómfrúin is a favourite spot for city workers and tourists alike. On sunny days, the restaurant opens out to a small sheltered courtyard where you can eat al fresco. And Saturday afternoons throughout the summer are set aside for jazz sessions. Get there early if you want a seat! Jómfrúin Opening hours: 11:00 – 22:00 Lækjargata 4, 101 Reykjavík Tel: (+354) 551 0100 jomfruin@jomfruin.is

Essensia Restaurant

Kaffibrennslan

Fresh Icelandic foods, simple Italian flavours

Café • Coffee House • Bar Looking for a friendly, cosy café in downtown Reykjavik? Kaffibrennslan is a laidback new coffee house and bar on the main street Laugavegur, although the building itself isn’t new. In fact, it’s one of the oldest in the city – a beautifully restored wooden house dating back to 1884. Oozing charm and warmth, not to mention delicious light bites and great coffee, what’s not to like?

Where the atmosphere is as good as the food Already a hit with the locals, Kaffibrennslan offers a welcoming and relaxed atmosphere. Cake plays a big part in keeping customers happy, while on chillier days a popular treat is warm waffles with cream and jam, accompanied perhaps by a frothy hot chocolate. Renowned for its splendid fresh

history as the building has, over time, been home to a big family, to a tailor and a shoemaker, an art gallery and more besides. Down in the basement is an ancient fountain, its water used in years past to mix mortar for local construction. Today, however, it has been capped and the water comes out of a tap! sandwiches with homemade fillings, the café also serves a wide range of drinks including beer and wine. There’s even an extended red and white ‘happy hour’ on the wine front from 4-8pm, a perfect way to end the day (or maybe begin a night out).

A little slice of history When you sit down here for a cuppa, you’re sitting on a little slice of Icelandic

Make yourself at home Great honest food, snazzy Italian design and a relaxed Nordic-meetsMediterranean atmosphere – your search for the perfect Reykjavik restaurant stops right here. This stylish new kitchen, with a fabulous view, has been wowing discerning diners who are in the know for a few months. Now the secret’s out.

Joyful plates for sharing Opening hours: Mon-Thu: 09.00–23.00 Fri: 09.00-01.00 Sat 10.00–01.00 Sun 10.00-23.00 Kaffibrennslan , Laugavegur 21 Tel+354 511 5888

The success of Essensia and its gorgeously Italian menu is all about a love of food, friends and full-on flavours. The dishes combine an Icelandic purity – a simple selection of fresh local ingredients – with the warmth and confidence of Mediterranean cuisine. Take comfort from a gourmet langoustine pizza, for example.

Coldwater Icelandic lobster baked to perfection in the wood oven, basking in a tomato and garlic sauce. The expectation, as with any respectable Italian table, is that you dine with friends. In addition to some terrific set menus and taster options, Essensia has numerous smaller dishes with a view to sharing. There is a good variety of seafood, and the pretty platters of cheese and Italian meats arrive with freshly grilled bread. The ‘principali’ include Icelandic lamb tajine and a tender veal Milanese.

Perfect by design Essensia is the bambino of head chef Hakon Örvarsson, an award-winning chef (“Bocuse d’Or” no less!) with a vision. He has set out to create a comfort zone, where people come together to talk, eat

and relax. And, determined to max-out the Italian feel, he commissioned design specialists Costa to add the authentic flourishes. From the black and white tiles to the Pavesi oven; right down to the Mareno kitchenware, the results are perfetto! Located on Hverfisgata, the latest downtown hotspot, the wall-to-wall windows look out on the sparkling Harpa concert hall, Arnarhóll hill and the city harbour beyond, adding to the overall delightfulness. Buon appetito miei amici. Essensia Hverfisgata 4-6, 101 Reykjavik Tel: + 354 517 0030 essensia@essensia.is, www.essensia.is Monday - Closed Tuesday - Wednesday 11:30-14:00 / 17:00-22:00 Thursday 11:30-15:00 / 16:00-22:00 Friday 11:30-15:00 / 16:00-23:00 Saturday - Sundays 11:30-16:00 / 16:30-22:00 47

Apotek

Sushi Social

The Icelandic food pharmacy

Socialize with the locals

Open at the end of 2011 and a hot favorite on the Reykjavik restaurant scene, Sushi Social offers a deliciously unique take on Icelandic fish and other homegrown ingredients. Fusing Iceland’s freshest flavors with Japanese, and South American influences, the restaurant’s top chefs have created a fantastic range of colorful dishes that taste as exciting as they look.

Drink in the atmosphere

The menu offers a great selection of tempting smaller courses such as lobster tempura, grilled octopus and salmon ceviche.

and a fabulous way to experience fresh Icelandic seafood. They range from the shrimp based Volcano roll to the Surf’n turf roll– a stunning concoction of lobster tempura, beef Carpaccio, teriyaki and chili crumble; a perfect posh nosh!

If you fancy some meat the amazing steak platter is the way to go. The ‘Juicy- Sushi’ maki rolls are a must try

If you can’t decide what to go for, the Icelandic feast is a perfect solution – six courses form an incredible taste

Icelandic ingredients - with a twist

experience that includes the national aperitif ‘Brennivin’ and an Icelandic Skyr infused with birch for dessert.

Attentive staff, fabulous chilli mojitos and a gorgeously eclectic interior are the icing on the cake at Sushi Social. Hand-carved Brazilian curios and some 50 pretty Japanese birdcages complement the contemporary lines and gentle feel of the place.

Sushi Social Þingholtsstræti 5, 101 Reykjavik +354 568 6600 www.sushisocial.is sushisocial@sushisocial.is Kitchen open: 17:00-23:00 Sun- Thurs (midnight on Fri/Sat)

Cooking up an Icelandic/Euro/Argentinian storm, the new Apotek Kitchen & Bar is proving a big hit on the Reykjavík food scene. Housed in the old city ‘Apotekið’ or pharmacy on the famous Austurstræti, the building is as delightful as the menu, stunningly renovated to blend original features in a vibrant, contemporary style. Head chef Carlos Gimenez (El Bulli) leads a team brimming with Iceland‘s most talented chefs. They have created an exuberant and tantalizing fusion of Icelandic and European cuisine with an entertaining twist, facilitated in part by the wonderful Argentinian grill. The lively cocktail bar is where Apotek’s award-winning “pharmacists” mix exquisite cocktails to suit every mood, from

Menu’, a great option to taste different dishes, including the legendary Icelandic lamb. When it comes to all things meaty, Apotek keeps it tasty by carefully aging their meat in-house, in a dedicated curing room.

Feast like a Icelander ‘tranquilisers’ to ‘painkillers’, and even the odd ‘placebo’.

When the boat comes in... Fresh fish and local ingredients are at the heart of Apotek’s colourful offering. Fish of the day is always a rewarding choice, likewise the charcoal grilled salmon with delicate beech mushrooms and a smoky broth. Plaice with emerald green samphire and a gorgeous lime beurre blanc is one of the dishes on the ‘Icelandic Gourmet

There is nothing more traditional in Iceland than a roasted leg of lamb, a typical Sunday lunch in many Icelandic homes. Apotek serves traditional Icelandic roast every Sunday from 12 – 14.30. Feast on slow cooked free range Icelandic leg of lamb with rosemary and garlic served family style with all the usual trimmings; including the must try sugar glazed potatoes. APOTEK Austurstræti 16,101 Reykjavík +354 551 0011 www.apotek.is apotek@apotekrestaurant.is #apotek.kitchen

Sæta svínið

Tapas barinn

“The Pretty Pig” gastropub

New to the downtown city scene in 2016, and already a big hit with Icelanders and international visitors, Sæta Svínið has a great vibe. Its cute and cosy interior is adorned with piggy paintings and prints, and the décor is a pleasing mix of simple rustic beams and modern touches. Sit outside if the sun shines, and watch the world go by. Quite often there are special events, dj´s in the weekends, wednesday party karaoke or sunday party bingo.

beer-poached Icelandic blue mussels with garlic and a zing of chilli. There are plenty of meaty platters, including melt-in-themouth slow roasted lamb shoulder, some veggie niceties and even a pork T-bone with Limoncello butter – poor pretty pig! Not to be outdone by all the foodie success, Icelandic beers have staked their claim to fame here (20 bottled and 10 on tap), and the lush artisan cocktails are enough to make a pretty pigtail curl with pleasure.

Gastro-snout

Pigs can fly

More than just a pub, Sæta Svínið has a great nose for local goodies. Proud of its Icelandic heritage, it offers gastro-delights such as Ling fish, served with lentils, caper flowers and a Dijon sauce, and

Putting the ‘happy’ into happy hour, there are half-price cocktails, house wine and draught beers from 3pm right through to 6pm, every day. Ideal for winding down the week or kick-starting the weekend.

A local favourite for 18 years Something different Treat yourself to something different with a ‘Miss Piggy’, a divine concoction with hints of strawberry, butterscotch and cranberry.

Imagine yourself in the hot sun of Barcelona, following the crowds down a step or two into the cool interior of a typical bodega or wine bar. Greeted by whitewashed walls, simple wooden tables and the big smile of the patron and his friendly young staff, you would be forgiven for not realizing that you are, in fact, in downtown Reykjavik. Enter the world of Tapas Barinn, a place bursting with the delicious smells and flavours of both the traditional Spanish and the best of Icelandic tapas.

Sæta Svínið Hafnarstræti 1-3 ,101 Reykjavík + 354 555 2900 saetasvinid@saetasvinid.is saetasvinid.is #sætasvínið Open 11.30 - 23.30

Seafood, lamb and other native treats The restaurant is extensive menu contains over 50 dishes to suit all tastes, which you can order individually or as part of a main course.

A must try is the Icelandic gourmet feast which is a great way to taste the best of Icelandic produce in one meal. It starts with a shot of the infamous national spirit Brennivín and is followed by six delicious Icelandic tapas such as the famous Puffin with Blueberry and Brennivín sauce, followed by a minke whale with cranberry and Malt sauce. Other dishes are unmissable, such as the Icelandic lamb, sea trout and lobster tails. And no feast is complete without a delicious desert; White chocolate “skyr” mousse with passion fruit coulis. Alternatively, just relax and let the master chef make the selection for you and take a journey into the unknown.

Late night dining Tapas Barinn is the only restaurant in Reykjavik whose kitchen is open till 01:00 on weekends and 23:30 during the week. This stylish fusion of first-class service, fresh fish, seafood and Icelandic lamb has made Tapas Barinn one of the country’s most popular restaurants. Check it out for yourself and see why.

Tapas Barinn Vesturgata 3b 101 Reykjavik Tel 551-2344 tapas@tapas.is www.tapas.is 51

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s go local Looking for something authentic? Introducing Icelandic specialities, from tender lamb to top tomatoes.

at the water content of many vegetables, it’s easy to see why clean water plays a vital role in the end result.

A co-operative effort

photos: Hari

Icelandic farm produce

Hurrah for the humble vegetable

Fresh as the morning dew The nation’s fruit and veg

For a delicious, farm-fresh taste of Iceland look out for the green farmers label with the distinct blue and red stripe from the Icelandic flag. Stores around the country are proud to stock this super-fresh and super-tasty produce, which comes from local farmers up and down the land.

Top tomatoes You can tell a lot about a country by its tomatoes. Tomato farming was one of the first types of commercial veggie farming to take off in Iceland and, amazingly, there are now 11 different types of tomatoes grown here. When you sample any one of them your taste buds will confirm the quality. Unlike 54

most imports, which are picked way before they’re ripe and can often spend weeks in transit, these beauties are allowed to ripen slowly and naturally on the vine, and are usually in the shops the day after they have been picked.

Fresh, ripe and full of flavour Contributing to the quality of the label’s tomatoes, salads, herbs, fruits and other vegetables, are the environmental factors that Icelanders have harnessed to great effect. Unpolluted cool air, crystal clear water and decent soil with no additives or nasty pesticides all help to produce nutritious crops, rich in vitamins, minerals and, of course, taste. The cool air means no bugs

Around 70% of all Icelandic fruit and veg is sold under the SFG farmers label. SFG (Sölufélag Garðyrkjumanna or “horticulturists’ sales”) is a long-established company that is 100%-owned by the famers who supply it. Family farmers like Vignir Jónsson and Ásdís Bjarnadóttir, who have been growing carrots since 1997 in sandy soil on the banks of the river Hvítá, assign their harvest to the company. Capable management and efficient marketing mean that around 90% of the wholesale price of goods finds its way back to the growers.

outdoors, and inside (under glass) farmers use the “good bugs” to take on the “bad bugs” in their successful quest for highquality, home grown produce.

Green and smart While some of the fruit and veg is grown in open fields under those fresh Icelandic skies – kale, cabbage and sturdy root crops such as potatoes and carrots – the rest gets a warmer, year-round growing life in sophisticated greenhouses. Icelandic farmers are at the forefront of greenhouse technology, using computerised systems, along with sustainable power sources and ultra-clean water, to maximise productivity from each precious square meter. And, when you look

And the strawberries and raspberries too! Not forgetting either, the farmers label ketchup, pasta sauces, relishes and pickled cabbage. Check out the whole delicious range at www.islenskt.is, where you can also find delightful introductions to the farmers growing your food. There’s even a “veggie calendar” to show you what’s in season when you visit. Look out for the green farmers label and put a taste of Iceland in your basket for the perfect accompaniment to any meal. Enjoy! SFG Brúarvogi 2, 104 Reykjavík Tel: +354 570 8900 Fax: +354 570-8929 sfg@sfg.is www.islenskt.is 55

VISIT

The oldest diner IN REYKJAVÍK

M I L K

C H O C O L A T E

Go GÓA

Sweet as candy Must try classics Forget rotten shark and dried fish. If you want an authentic taste of Iceland you need look no further than the nearest sweet shop or supermarket. GÓA is the big name in Icelandic confectionary, and has been since 1968. Their classic delights such as Florida bars and Fantastic bars (i. Æði) are a staple at every Icelandic birthday party and camping trip, and on cosy nights in front of the TV.

BURGERS – SANDWICHES B B Q R I B S – S T E A K S – F I S H WRAPS AN D LOCAL DISHES 56

WWW.GRILLHUSID.IS • TRYGGVAGATA 20 • TEL: 5623456

Spread the love Eat it now, take it home, or give it to friends – your Icelandic experience is incomplete without a taste of GÓA’s finest. Try the whole range of Lava chocolate wafers, available with milk chocolate, dark chocolate, covered with shredded coconut or with a chewy marshmallow filling. If

liquorice is your thing, get yourself some Bingo lakkrískúlur (little bites of liquorice smothered in dark chocolate). You may well have noticed by now that liquorice is huge in Iceland. When Icelanders are visiting fellow nationals abroad, they will typically take bags of Appolo liquorice as a perfect cure for homesickness.

Ambitious and delicious Helgi Vilhjálmsson, one of the founders of GÓA, is a legendary figure in Iceland. He still manages the business, 50 years after he started out with just a single machine, making chewy toffees in his garage. From those humble beginnings, and with loyal staff who have worked alongside him for years, Helgi now runs a massive empire that also includes KFC and Taco Bell.

Appolo Liquorice & marzipan bites

Bingo lakkrískúlur Chocolate liquorice caramels

with the assistance of sheepdogs. The whole process can take up to a week, with overnight stays in remote mountain huts. On the final day, the assembled sheep are sorted into pens, with markings on their ears an indicator of which farmer they belong to. Lots of people, not just the farmers, gather for this final-day event, which is invariably celebrated into the small hours.

Sustainable harvest The lush summer pastures are awash with sedge, willow, thrift, mass campion and berries, a natural resource that the farmers harvest in summer to feed their stock over the colder months.

Welcome to lamb country!

Where the history of sheep farming is as old as the hills If you’ve come to Iceland, it will soon be obvious that you’ve come to lamb country. They outnumber the population and they’re everywhere! Unsurprisingly, lamb features prominently in many restaurant menus and numerous national dishes – the simplest being smoked meat known as Hangikjöt. Try a slice with rye flat-bread (flatkaka) for a deliciously authentic national flavour.

Delicious and distinctive The lambs are entirely reared outdoors. This and their natural diet of aromatic herbs, berries and wild grasses is what makes Icelandic lamb instantly recognizable for its tender, lean meat and delicious and distinctive taste. Grilled, steamed or even raw, the flavour is incredible. In days of old, the tradition of 58

making slátur – a kind of blood pudding and liver sausage akin to the Scottish haggis – was widespread. Today, however, the culinary innovators in Iceland are opening up a whole new range of tastes and textures, including lamb carpaccio and a tasty triple-smoked meat that has similarities with jamon Iberico or Italian ham.

Roam Free Sheep farming in Iceland is as old as the settlement of the country itself. To this day, farms are still family-owned, and rearing methods reflect centuries-old traditions. The grownups, ewes and rams, are sheltered in the harsh winters, but for the rest of the year they roam free with their spring born offspring’s, running wild in the Icelandic Highlands. They belong to a robust breed that used to

be commonplace in North Western Europe, but is now only found in very few parts of the world. Sturdy, short-tailed and incredibly hardy little animals, they are well adapted to the Icelandic environment. Their unique contribution to the planets biodiversity was recognised when the Icelandic sheep became a part of Slow Food Ark of taste in 2015. Watch out for the “Roaming free” seal of authenticity (pictured), used increasingly in Reykjavik restaurants offering Icelandic lamb, and on Icelandic lambs-wool products.

Réttir

Indeed, much of Iceland’s lamb production is based on the sustainable harvesting of nature’s bounties. The weather, unpolluted air and an abundant supply of clean mountain water make the use of pesticides and herbicides unnecessary, and Iceland’s cool climate protects the land against many diseases and pests which can plague agriculture in warmer latitudes. The use of hormones and GMO feed is prohibited and antibiotics are strictly regulated. Provenance is another plus point for the environment when eating Icelandic lamb. If you’re eating it in Iceland, you can be sure it has been transported a few hundred kilometres at most, unlike New Zealand lamb, which has travelled an astonishing 12,000 km.

The time-honoured September round up of the sheep is known in Iceland as “Réttir”. The flocks are driven down from the Highlands, usually by groups of farmers on horseback 59

Egils Appelsín

Icelanders love lobster!

The Classic Icelandic Soda

On the trail of the Reykjavik Lobster Hut Lobster heaven Anyone who has ever been to Iceland will know how popular the downtown foodie trailers are, selling mainly hot-dogs and hamburgers. Now there’s a new Hut on the block, with a fresh street food offering – the oh-so scrumptious Icelandic lobster.

Lovely little langoustine Iceland’s ‘lobster’ has a delicious snowwhite flesh, akin to that of langoustine (scampi). As healthy as it is tasty, it takes centre stage in salads and soups, but is often enjoyed neat, sandwiched between some fresh bread or with lashings of buttery garlic. It really is the quintessential taste of Iceland, which is why it’s so exciting to see the Reykjavik Lobster Hut 60

out and about, sharing the love and at a very reasonable price.

The world is your lobster The passion behind the Hut is entrepreneur and kitchen queen, Fjóla Sigurðardóttir. The lobster ‘lightbulb’ moment came when holidaying in Thailand. After enjoying the concept of the little cocktail wagons that do the rounds there, Fjóla came home, hooked up with her fishmonger son and promptly sold her car to finance the business. Reaction to date has been overwhelmingly positive.

Deliciously simple A simple menu features lobster salad for a light but tasty meal; delicious steaming lobster soup; and the lobster baguette,

which comes in full or half-size portions. The latter is perfect for a meal on the move or to take away for a sit down in the city´s centre. Add extra lobster to any of the above if you choose and wash it down with some pure Icelandic spring water. The Lobster Hut is now open from 21:00 until early in the morning at Lækjartorg, city´s main square. Perfect for the early birds or the ones arriving late to town. The Lobster Hut open daily at Kalkofnsvegur in the city´s centre. The Lobster Hut, City Centre Opening hours: Mon - Frid 11:00 – 19:00 Weekends 11:00 – 19:00 and 21:00 -05:00 The Hut is the pop up lobster house in Iceland. Look for the Lobster Hut on facebook.

Put some heritage in your beverage There is probably not a single Icelander living who hasn’t enjoyed a glass of Egils Appelsín. This refreshing orange soda is pretty much the nation’s favourite beverage, produced in Iceland since 1955 by the legendary Ölgerðin Egill Skallagrimsson brewery. Ölgerðin is the Icelandic word for brewery, and brewing beer was the company’s primary objective when it was established over 100 years ago. Since then, it has gained a reputation as a top producer and exporter of high quality drinks, all made with pure Icelandic water.

Sparkling Orange It took 25 years, so the story goes, for Sigurður Sveinsson to hatch the perfect

recipe for this beautifully sweet, sparkling nectar. Originally a young apprentice when the firm first started producing soft drinks, Sigurður struggled to achieve the vibrant orange colour that’s now synonymous with Egils Appelsín. This distinctive soda has since earned its place in the history books, and to this day is loved and consumed by Icelanders of all ages.

Celebrate the taste On festive occasions, Icelanders like nothing better than to pair up Egils Appelsín with Egils Malt, a smooth nonalcoholic malt with hints of caramel and liquorice that was one of the brewery’s first commercial products back in 1913.

At Christmas, you can buy it ready-mixed under the name ‘Jólaöl’ (Christmas ale), but you can sample it over the summer months too, as the vital ingredients are available in all reputable bars, restaurants and supermarkets. If you’re looking for something typically Icelandic to take home, forget the lava balls and fluffy puffins – pick up some Egils Appelsín and Malt at the Duty Free and have yourself an Iceland-fest with friends and family.

More information on beverages and brewery tours: www.olgerdin.is 61

The old harbour quarter Always worth a visit, the old harbour in Reykjavík has quietly and steadily established itself over recent years as one of the city’s main tourist attractions. With an arty, cosmopolitan feel, the area possesses an evocative blend of history, tradition and renewal. It’s a place that perhaps reflects Iceland’s come back from difficult times, with new restaurants and artisan workshops nestled in between more established haunts and set against the ever-changing backdrop of the ocean.

Something for everyone

Various whale-watching boats are moored up here, and what better starting point for a great day out. When you’ve worked up an appetite, follow your senses to the Steak House or Sægreifinn, a rustic no-nonsense institution that’s legendary for its lobster soup and fresh fish delights. Trendy hangouts abound, including Café Haiti, the Marina Hotel and the tiny hamburger joint housed in the old fish-weighing house. Venture a few steps further inland and there are distinctive shops, cafes, bars, museums and art galleries wherever you look. Enjoy your visit!

Sægreifinn

The original „Icelandic Fish & Chips“ from 2006

Tasty fish dishes in a seafarer’s cabin Translated from the Icelandic, “Sægreifinn” means the Sea Baron (Neptune). His riches include the fruits of the sea, making Sægreifinn the perfect name for one of Reykjavik’s best kept secrets – a bona fide and inexpensive (by Icelandic standards!) fish restaurant on the harbour’s edge. Sadly, the proprietor of Sægreifinn, Kjartan Halldórsson has recently passed away, but he will be remembered by many, not least at SÆGREIFINN, where the atmosphere and menu remain as authentic as the day he started his restaurant 2002.

Legendary lobster soup The offers change with the tides, anything from smoked monkfish, to eels, halibut, trout, salmon, lumpsucker, blue ling, lemon sole, marinated herring and 64

other delicacies. The house speciality is humarsúpa – a mouth-watering lobster soup that’s more of a stew really, for the less than the price of a glass of wine. Delicious, fresh Icelandic cod also makes it onto the menu, while “harðfiskur”, the dried stuff that locals seem to relish, is available on request. For those wanting a genuine and unpretentious taste of Iceland this is a great find. Eat in or take away a parcel of ready-tocook delights – either way it’s a real treat.

A distinctly local flavour For the adventurous, there is Minke whale meat (a legally caught and not endangered species). You can ponder your political correctness over smoked slices or have it kebab-style, grilled with vegetables, offering a taste not too dissimilar to beef. Grilled

Restaurant down at the harbour. cormorant, puffin and shark can also be served up for those brave enough to try. Sægreifinn´s Saturday lunch special is when a wholesome plates of “saltfiskur” and “skata” is served. Saltfish, or baccalao - distinctively flavoured, tasty salt-dried cod - was a major Icelandic export for centuries. Skata, or stingray, is another kettle of fish altogether. Fermented for weeks, sometimes months, it assaults your senses with the pungent smell of ammonia. Served with potatoes it is usually complemented with some nice hot fatty animal suet. Go on try it, we dare you!

Sægreifinn, Verbúð 8, Geirsgata, 101 Reykjavík +354 553 1500, www.saegreifinn.is seabaron8@gmail.com Open daily 11:30 - 22:00

For a great meal and great value, take a wander down to the old city harbour in Reykjavik and enjoy some fresh Icelandic fish and chips. Enveloped in a crispy light batter, or gently baked in delicious pesto, there is usually a choice of between three and five types of fish delivered daily from the high seas. The restaurant also serves up garlic roasted langoustine – the unmissable ‘Icelandic lobster’. Wonderfully unique in terms of its authenticity and commitment to organic produce, Icelandic Fish & Chips is located within the ‘Volcano House’, one of the city’s top tourist attractions and another good reason to head on down.

Full of flavour The ‘chips’ are in fact wedges of white fluffy potato, oven-roasted to perfection with local

sea-salt and parsley, rosemary or garlic. And for the fish, the chefs have carefully considered how best to batter them, creating a crispy concoction using spelt as opposed to wheat flour, and rapeseed oil for its healthy omega-3 content. Rounding off the menu is a tasty range of fresh salads, while drinks include homemade ginger beer (the non-alcoholic variety). For those who can’t contemplate their fish and chips without a dash of malt vinegar, worry not. Although there is no tradition of the stuff in Iceland, and nobody imports it, the restaurant makes their own in-house.

An endearing Icelandic addition is the choice of dips featuring the legendary local produce ‘Skyr’. Essentially a milky cheese product, that tastes and looks like yoghurt, it’s a great fat-free base for all sorts of yummy dips ranging from coriander and lime, to ginger and wasabi or even mango – don’t go home without tasting them.

Icelandic Fish & Chips Tryggvagata 11, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 1118 reservations@fishandchips.is www.fishandchips.is Open daily 12:00-21:00 65

Kaffivagninn

Hamborgara Búllan

Iceland’s oldest restaurant

The hottest hamburger joint in town Fans of the humble hamburger rejoice! Hamborgara Búllan is a remarkable little burger joint with a mighty heritage, serving up simple, lovingly prepared and absolutely delicious grub. Owner Tommi Tómasson is legendary in his native land, winning the gratitude of many for bringing the hamburger to Iceland in 1981. Selling over a million burgers in his first three years, he then went on to bigger projects, including the city‘s Hard Rock Cafe. More recently though, and to the delight of local burger devotees, he’s gone back to his roots, opening five retro-styled venues serving exactly what people want.

Trade secrets The secret of a great burger joint according to Tommi, is a classless place with a casual 66

vibe, where the chairs don’t match and the burgers are big and meaty. The menu here is straightforward, but the love invested in these burgers is obvious. Made from 100% beef with crisp lettuce, tomato and your preferred combination of mayo, ketchup and mustard, they go down a treat with the house milkshake. And for those not so keen on a hearty meat feast, there is a tasty, crunchy veggie version.

On the waterfront, and at B5 Downtown in the trendy 101 district of the Old Harbour, Hamborgara Búllan can be found in the intriguing ‘Hafnarviktin’, a harbour-side building where the daily fish catches were weighed and counted in former times. A real architectural gem, the

interior is now adorned with Americana, the Sopranos jostling for wall space with Johnny Cash and the Blues Brothers. Its sibling branches are based in Ofanleit (in the 103 district),Bíldshöfða (on the outskirts of the city) and the nearby town of Hafnarfjordur. Tommi has also joined forces with B5, a stylish but laid back bar serving bistro meals in one of the city’s busiest streets, Bankastræti. Now you can savour your burger of choice in this lively venue at, you guessed it, number five. Further, the joint can now be found at Selfoss on the south coast of Iceland. Hamborgara Búllan Geirsgötu 1, 101 Reykjavík Eyravegi 32 , 800 Selfossi Tel: +354 511 1888 www.bullan.is Open daily 11:30-21:00

Authentic and Icelandic

It’s all about the fish

The “coffee wagon” started out as a mobile café back in 1935. Amongst the bustle of tradespeople and fisherman going about their work in downtown Reykjavik, the young Bjarni Kristjánsson first began serving hot coffee and snacks from the back of his truck. Bjarni kept the coffee coming throughout World War II, eventually moving his operation into a small building on wheels that could sit 10 to 15 people. Today, after one or two face-lifts and a move to the harbour side, Kaffivagninn remains true to its humble and hospitable roots, offering breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee and other drinks, cakes and pastries. The customers may be more diverse these days, but the dining experience is authentic and Icelandic to its core.

This traditional dining spot is the perfect place for lunch or dinner. From delicious lobster soup and hearty fish stew, to the ever-changing “fish of the day”, the chefs at Kaffivagninn cook from the heart. Arctic char and pan-fried plaice compete for attention with the hugely popular “Fish Pan”, a mouth-watering pan of Icelandic cod loin cooked au gratin with shrimp, béarnaise sauce and potatoes. The house fish & chips is another favourite with the restaurant’s customers, served up with crisp, fresh salad and tasty sauces.

Cakes and brunch Breakfast at Kaffivagninn is a great way to start your day – tuck in to bacon and

eggs, porridge, or a delightfully indulgent plate of Icelandic smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. The weekend brunch is getting itself a reputation, with pancakes and blueberries all part of the attraction. Naturally, fresh coffee is on the go all day, every day, along with other drinks and plenty of cake, so get yourself down to the “wagon”.

Kaffivagninn Grandagarði 10 101 Reykjavík +354 551 5932 kaffivagninn@kaffivagninn.is www.kaffivagninn.is

Open weekdays 07:30-21:00, weekends 09:30-16:00

Bryggjan Brugghús

Dockside Bar, Bistro & Brewery Sitting on the dock of the bay If you’re after a fantastic place to eat and relax, maybe get to know Icelandic beer culture, get yourself to Bryggjan Brugghús. Fish of the day is always on the menu, along with steaks, burgers and a vegan option, making this an affordable and attractive lunch stop (soup and fresh bread included with all lunch mains), as well as a more sophisticated dinner destination. The newly built pier looks out over the mountains and the bay, acting as the perfect sun trap while connecting Bryggjan Brugghús physically and historically with the rest of the old harbour quarter. In a previous life, this impressive building was the freezing plant for the state fish company, where thousands of tons of cod were processed every year. 68

Touring Reykjavik’s first micro-brewery Bryggjan Brugghús serves a great range of top quality beers, as well as other favourite tipples. Check out the taps connected directly to the in-house micro-brewery, pumping out superb craft beers of every kind, and sample the guest beers from other Icelandic brewers. Guests are welcome to tour the brewery on the hour, pretty much every hour from lunchtime until about 9pm. With beer-tasting to conclude, and typically no need to book ahead, Bryggjan Brugghús is a terrific tourist attraction in its own right.

Gourmet delights and all that jazz Reserve a table at the bistro for a gourmet experience to remember. The delicious

menu focuses naturally on fresh seafood caught off Iceland’s shores. Blue mussels and shoe-string fries are big favourites, along with seafood soup, the langoustine feast and the tasting menu – perfect for the whole table. Add to the sensory pleasure with live jazz sessions on Sunday evenings and frequent other stylish music acts (call ahead or see Facebook for details). Bryggjan Brugghús Next door to the famed Maritime Museum Grandagarður 8 101 Reykjavík +354 456 4040 booking@bryggjanbrugghus.is www.bryggjanbrugghus.is Open 11:00- 01:00 daily (kitchen closed 15:00-17:00) Brewery tours on the hour, typically from midday 69

Forréttabarinn

Steikhúsið

Tempting tasters

Great food and a warm welcome For tender sizzling steaks and succulent Icelandic lamb, Steikhúsið (the Steak House) is the place to go. The fiery Spanish Mibrasa coal oven at the heart of the restaurant gives a deliciously distinctive edge, enhancing the richness of the food that is cooked to perfection by the busy chefs. Fun, original and with a laid-back atmosphere, the focus here is on great food and great flavours.

Love me tender Choose from juicy beef tenderloin or the ‘butcher’s pride’, T-bone and rib-eye steaks, tenderised and cured for at least 28 days and absolutely gorgeous. Prime lamb fillet steak is another mouth-watering favourite – try it with a red wine glaze or maybe the chunky blue 70

cheese sauce, accompanied by Steikhúsið’s oh-so-satisfying triple-dipped fries. As well as steaks, mains include lovely langoustines, beautifully grilled fish and a vegetarian option of the week, all good value choices. If you find yourself in a dilemma, one way out is the much-loved seasonal feast – an exciting range of dishes, fish or meat, you choose. Desserts are equally delicious. If you’re looking for an Icelandic twist, try the Vanilla-skyr cheesecake with blueberries and white chocolate

Historic appeal, contemporary style The Steikhúsið coal oven is a fitting tribute to this old building, which used to house

the city blacksmith and metal works. Now furnished in part with recycled materials, the restaurant has a simple yet warm modernist style, nicely complemented by the ‘i-Pad’ drinks menus. And its location down by the old city harbour, bustling with craft shops and whale-watching boats, makes this the perfect spot to wind down after an inspiring day out.

Steikhúsið (the Steak House) Tryggvagata 4-6 101 Reykjavík +354 561 1111 steik@steik.is www.steak.is Open every day of the week from 17:00 until late

Start as you mean to go on When a restaurant attracts as many locals as it does tourists, you know you’re in a good place. Forréttabarinn is such a place. More than just good, it’s an absolute gem. Its name translates as the Starters Bar, reflecting its passion for appetisers, large and small – tasty portions of fantastic food. The creative menu is influenced by flavours from around the world, and features fresh Icelandic ingredients.

Try something new From sautéed cod with orange pickled fennel, to skyr mousse and berries – head chef and owner Róbert Ólafsson has established a great reputation for delicious dishes. Check out the langoustine soup or smoked duck on a beetroot and

pomegranate salad. Fruits of the Icelandic seas include west coast mussels and Arctic char, the latter paired beautifully with seared scallops on a plate of creamed barley and asparagus. Praised for its presentation and service, as much as its food, the restaurant also offers a choice of four-course set meals (you can browse current menus online). The ever-popular ‘Smokey Bay’ option gives you a chance to sample hot smoked salmon, beef carpaccio and succulent herb-crusted lamb. Crème brûlée with a delightful rhubarb compote completes the experience.

Have a great night Friendly, funky and inimitably Icelandic in style, Forréttabarinn is perfect for a quick

bite or a laid-back evening. The downtown location, close to the harbour, galleries and artisan workshops, makes a great backdrop to the vibrant open kitchen and high-ceilinged bar. And an extensive list of local and international beers, plus a decent wine list, is the icing on the cake. Enjoy! “terrific food... wonderful service... great “local” vibe” A big ‘thumbs up’ from customers, with five consecutive years of excellence ratings on TripAdvisor. Forréttabarinn Nylendugata 14 Reykjavik 101 +354 517 1800 info@forréttabarinn.is www.forrettabarinn.is Kitchen open Mon-Sun 16:00-22:00 71

Osushi the Train

Farmers & Friends

The home of delicious sushi

Gorgeous textiles, sustainable fashion New Nordic design

Vibrant and inventive, the buzz around the old harbour area in Reykjavik continues to intensify. The former fish factory in ‘Grandi’ is now home to Farmers & Friends, the stylish flagship store and creative hub for Icelandic design and clothing brand “Farmers Market”. Here you can find the entire Farmers Market fashion collection, along with other gorgeous goods that reflect the ethos of the business – Icelandic music, books, bags and homeware. A visual feast also awaits you, in the form of the gallery wall – a diverse assortment of photographs and other works of art.

Farmers Market Designer Bergthora Gudnadottir and musician Jóel Pálsson are the Icelandic couple behind Farmers Market, the company 72

they established in 2005. With strong ties to the vibrant Icelandic music and design scene, their concept and inspiration stems from Icelandic roots. The result is an accomplished combination of classic Nordic design elements and contemporary style. Natural fabrics, craftsmanship and respect for the environment are evident values of the brand, which aligns itself with some of the finest textile producers in the market – fabrics include merino and mohair yarns from Italy, waxed cotton fabrics from British Millerain and Indian raw silk, as well as unique Icelandic wool from a local yarn mill. Authentically styled, yet sophisticated and wearable, Farmers Market clothing is suited to a wide range of occasions, from outdoor activities to city life.

The junction

Icelandic ingredients

Farmers Market has positioned itself at a place where heritage meets modernity. The junction between national and international, countryside and city. Firm advocates of sustainable fashion, their use of synthetic fabrics is kept to a minimum, and a lot of care goes into choosing production partners, locally and overseas. Great attitude, great design – go check it out.

Fresh, delicious fish is at the heart of Sushi, the elegant Japanese rice dish with global appeal. So, what better place to dine on this heavenly food than down at the old harbour in Reykjavik, at the delightful Osushi the Train. This is the third and newest addition to the city’s Osushi train chain, which has been thrilling the locals for years. It has built a solid reputation for great sushi, with a special emphasis on Icelandic fish and ingredients.

Grandi (Old harbour), Hólmaslod 2, 101 Reykjavik +354 552 1960

Laugavegur 37 (main shopping street) 101 Reykjavik +354 552 1965 Open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-17:00 Sun (Laugavegur 37 only) 11:00-17:00 www.farmersmarket.is

Get on board Part of the attraction is naturally the “train”, the moving conveyor belt that transports a multitude of tempting dishes past your very eyes. The different colours of the little

plates indicate the price for each dish, allowing you to choose from a range of delicate and beautiful creations and eat as much or as little as you like. Prepared to a high standard by professionally trained sushi chefs, the food is made with and accompanied by the traditional elements of wasabi, miso, ginger and seaweed. From delicate vegetarian maki bites, to California and Cungan maki, shrimp and tuna nigari, salmon and tuna sashimi – the choice is yours. If you can’t find what you want on the train, you can place a special order for it. And for those who fancy something different, alternatives include grilled meats, teriyaki chicken, Japanese salads and soups.

Enjoy the journey Having a party? Osushi caters for outside events and can even send a chef to prepare food in your own home. However, the lively restaurants remain the most popular route for most sushi lovers. It can get very busy at Osushi on the weekend. You can’t reserve a table, but turnover is brEUR and the food is worth waiting for. So, hang on in there, grab a chair and enjoy the train journey! +354 561 0562 osushi@osushi.is www.osushi.is OLD HARBOUR - Tryggvagötu 13 Open Mon – Sat 11:30-22:00, Sun 15:00-22:00 Reykjavíkurvegi 60 Open Mon – Thurs 11:30-21:30, Fri – Sat 11:30-22:00, Sun 17:00-21:30 Borgartún 29 Open Mon – Fri only 11:00-17:00 73

Let’s go Skólavörðustígur The favourite city street of many Icelanders, Skólavörðustígur makes its way gently uphill from Laugavegur to the iconic spire of Hallgrímskirkja. A colourful little street, it has a delightful personality of its own. It’s always a pleasure to wander amongst its bustling craft stores, galleries, restaurants and coffee bars, and discover little gems like the knitting shop or the beautiful Einar Jonsson sculpture garden.

Ostabúðin

More than just a Cheese Shop Impeccable taste This delightful restaurant and delicatessen, on the equally delightful Skólavörðustígur, offers gorgeous light lunches and dinners to remember. The restaurant offers the perfect way to sample the tastes of Iceland, with local cheese and varied meats such as smoked goose breast, cured beef and ewe fillet. Try the reindeer starter, served with blini, mushrooms and sweet pears. The salted Icelandic Cod and Arctic Char are among the popular fish dishes, while a skyr mousse with blueberries and a delicate oat-rich cheesecake top the dessert list. With rave reviews on Trip Advisor, Ostabúðin has built a well-deserved reputation as a stable of the Icelandic restaurant scene. Among its patrons are notable 76

Visit our stores: Skólavörðustígur 7, 12 & 16 and Geysir Haukadalur.

members of the city’s diplomatic and cultural communities, who often serve the restaurant’s delicacies at their events.

Family feel Ostabúðin has been around for almost 20 years. Originally a simple ostabúð, or cheese store, it expanded its horizons a few years ago and opened up the restaurant, at first in the basement, and now next door. Its current success reflects a friendly and modest approach based on quality and real pride in its food, flavours and presentation.

Feast your senses If you’re looking for something yummy and Icelandic to take back to your lodgings, or to take home as a gift, why not treat yourself to

smoked salmon, trout or goose fillet in the deli, along with a touch of contrasting jam or chutney? Naturally there is a wide range of exquisite cheeses, along with olives; pates; virgin olive oil, and all manner of delicious morsels. “This was our last meal in the country, and it didn’t disappoint… the seafood soup may be the best version of the dish we had in Iceland.”

Ostabúðin Restaurant and Delicatessen Skólavörðustíg 8 101 Reykjavík +354 562 2772 ostabudin@ostabudin.is www.ostabudin.is Deli open daily except Sundays Restaurant open weekdays 11:3022:00, weekends 12:00-22:00 77

Traditional Icelandic Sweaters

BUY DIRECTLY FROM THE PEOPLE WHO MAKE THEM • HANDKNITTED IN ICELAND •

Skólavörðustígur 19 & Borgartún 31 t: +354 552 1890 handknitted.is

Buy direct from the people who make them Timeless fashion

It’s in the wool

When you’re strolling down Skólavörðustígur, call in at number 19 for a cuppa and a little slice of woolly history. This welcoming store is home to Iceland’s Hand-Knitting Association, the perfect place to buy Icelandic wool, knitting patterns and the beautiful, traditional hand-knitted Icelandic sweaters known as “Lopapeysa”.

After centuries of weathering an extreme climate, Icelandic sheep have developed unique ‘two-fibre’ wool. The outer fibre is hollow, glossy and water-repellent, while the inner part is soft and insulating. The result is very warm, lightweight and water-repellent wool, the likes of which are found only in Iceland.

For centuries, Icelanders have depended on warm knitted garments to help them endure the long, cold winters. So knitting, which used to be first and foremost a necessity, is still a pastime for many people, and a highly appreciated craft. No longer something just to be worn for camping or herding sheep, the Lopapeysa is now a fashionable item for any occasion. And, of course, the perfect souvenir.

by the Hand-Knitting Association store. The association was born in 1977, when a number of Icelandic women who had used their knitting to supplement family incomes decided to join forces. Today, the store is flourishing, and showcasing the handiwork of hundreds of local knitters.

Producing high quality goods since 1977 For extra cosiness and a real Icelandic feel, get yourself the genuine article. Don’t be fooled by cheaper imported sweaters that are starting to flood the market from China and elsewhere. For an authentic product, with local wool that’s been spun and hand-knitted here in Iceland, drop

The Hand-Knitting Association of Iceland Skólavörðustígur 19 108 Reykjavik Also at Borgatun 31 +354 552 1890 handknit@handknitted.is www.handknitted.is Open Mon – Sat 09:00-18:00 Sun 12:00-18:00

The Einar Jónsson Museum

Penninn Eymundsson

The Jewel In Skólavörðustígur’s Crown

The bookstore with more Everything a good bookshop should be Penninn Eymundsson is the oldest, biggest and arguably the best bookstore in Iceland. Here on Skólavörðustígur, it has been part of the scenery for years. The building used to house a bank and it is right next door to the old city prison. Today though, it’s a welcoming spot to browse an incredible range of books and magazines, or unwind with a coffee. There’s also a fantastic selection of postcards and a post-box just outside, making it the perfect place to sit awhile and write home.

Te & Kaffi Tea and coffee, yummy cakes, wholesome sandwiches and lite-bites are all there to be enjoyed within the shop’s much frequented café “Te & Kaffi”. In Iceland, tradition has it 80

Visionary sculptor Iceland, Penninn Eymundsson remains one of the nation’s most popular stores.

My puffin in a bag

that you can read any one of the books and magazines free of charge while you sip your cuppa, a lovely hospitable touch that still endures at Penninn Eymundsson. And there are plenty of English and other language titles to choose from. The literary and story-telling tradition in Iceland is incredibly strong. Illiteracy is unheard of and books are revered here They remain one of the most popular choices for gifts in this country, and with 18 stores across

The atmosphere is relaxing and the staff are helpful and experienced. In addition to the books and magazines (think fiction, nonfiction, art, photography, travel and more besides), there are art materials, games and music, along with some great souvenirs. Exclusive to Penninn Eymundsson this year, are the cutest little puffins, which come ready wrapped in their own special paper-bags… just the thing to pop in your suitcase! Penninn Eymundsson Skólavörðustígur 11, 101 Reykjavík +354 540 2350 verslun.skolavordustig@eymundsson.is www.eymundsson.is International shipping, all major credit cards accepted

The Icelander Einar Jónsson (1874-1954) was a visionary artist and sculptor. His hauntingly beautiful creations brim with complex symbolism, imagination and originality. His sculptures can be found dotted around the city, and even those with only a passing interest in art will find this museum and its tranquil garden a fascinating place, a hidden gem amongst Reykjavik’s attractions.

The artist’s home Having gifted much of his work to the Icelandic nation, Jónsson oversaw the construction of an eclectic building, designed originally as his home, studio and a place to exhibit his work for future generations to enjoy. The structure rose

Powerful and poignant

dramatically from the top of what was then a desolate hill on the outskirts of the city. And when it opened in 1923, it was the country’s very first art museum. Today, it sits adjacent to the white spire of Hallgrímskirkja and is surrounded by newer buildings at the pinnacle of the lively street now known as Skólavörðustígur.

A firm advocate of the need for artists to forge their own path, Jónsson drew inspiration from Icelandic folklore, as well as mythological and religious themes. From the night troll who turns to stone at dawn, to the outlaws hiding out in the wild Icelandic highlands, or the moral dilemma behind the work Fate, the stories the sculptures tell are mesmerising (see more on the museum’s website). Powerful and poignant, his work remains relevant, as well as riveting. Go see. Einar Jónsson Museum (Listasafn Einars Jónssonar) Hallgrímstorg 3 101 Reykjavík +354 551 3797 lej@lej.is www.lej.is Open Tue – Sun 10:00-17:00

Bastard Brew & Food

Kol Kitchen & Bar

Great Beer and Burgers A new brew

Cheers

The comfort zone

Newly opened in summer 2018, Bastard is an aspiring microbrewery in the heart of the city. Having already launched two Bastard beers, brewed by Bastard friends – a hearty New England IPA and a gentler amber ale – it is now adding the finishing touches to the gorgeous shiny tanks on show upstairs that will enable it to brew in-house. Propping up the bar are 10 other draft beers, with guest appearances from a range of Icelandic breweries.

Attracting a diverse and lively crowd, Bastard Beer & Food is open every day and happy hour is 4-7pm. The staff are friendly and the building itself is a fitting tribute to beer and beverages, with its stylish décor, leather stools, bookshelves and banquettes. There’s even a sun terrace (should you be so lucky). Rock up at the weekend for some great music, that adds soul, funk and disco from decades past to the mix.

Making its “charcoal” mark on the Reykjavik restaurant scene, Kol is a foodie revelation and a craft cocktail heaven. The chefs have an instinctive flair for upscaling what might be called comfort food, creating the prettiest dishes to satisfy a wide range of tastes. From ‘Fruits-de-Mer’ – a delectable platter of seafood served on ice with assorted dips – to ‘Lamb Sirloin’ with delicate blueberry polenta, the menu is both inviting and extensive.

Small, yet perfectly formed As well as beer, Bastard Brew & Food does a great line in adventurous gins, craft cocktails, wine and spirits ...and, of course, food. The menu may be small, but it’s tasty and tempting, with hugely 82

Classic cuisine with a twist

popular Bastard burgers. The crispy grilled flatbreads (think nachos, come pizza) are dripping with garlic butter and tasty toppings – try a duck confit with pickled chilli, or some Parma ham with Portobello mushrooms and Parmesan. Or maybe a soft tortilla with beef, pulled pork, or something else that takes your fancy. And if you get there before 3pm, you can even get yourself an egg and bacon brunch, perfect with beer!

Bastard Beer & Food Vegamótastígur 4 Reykjavík +354 558 0800 www.bastard.is Open 11:30 - 01:00 (Sun-Thurs) and 11:30 – 04:00 (Fri – Sat)

Artisans at work The surroundings are equally inviting. Inside has a contemporary rustic feel with comfy leather couches and stunning paintings by artist Inga María Brynjarsdóttir complementing the strangely cosy concrete

wall. Out back is the massive charcoal oven, from which come the juiciest steaks and tender lamb sirloins, grilled to perfection. And out front, there is always a lively vibe, emanating in part from Kol’s passionate team of staff and the discerning locals who frequent its doors.

Aged Black Negroni, a barrel aged twist on the classic with house made cranberry shrub; and the infamous Donkey. This Nordic equivalent of the Moscow Mule contains vodka, lime, ginger, grapefruit and mint, blended and gently carbonated for a really refreshing kick.

Just for kicks If it’s liquid refreshment you’re after, the amazing and lovingly crafted Kol cocktails are legendary. Many of the ingredients are freshly produced in-house, helping to create highly original concoctions such as Smoked Duck Fat Bourbon, nicely soured with Maraschino and lemon and producing a taste that is way better than it might first sound! Other favourites include the Barrel

Kol Kitchen & Bar Skólavörðustígur 40 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 7474 Email: info@kolrestaurant.is www.kolrestaurant.is Open Mon-Fri 11:30 – 14:00 Sun – Thurs 17:30 – 22:00 Fri/Sat 17:30 – 23:00 83

Café Loki

Salka Valka

Homemade traditional Icelandic food

Fish and more Cosy and colourful

Feel the love

Charming, soulful and welcoming, Salka Valka epitomises the spirit of Skólavörðustigur, one of the loveliest streets in the city. This cosy little restaurant is as colourful as the bunch of people who work there, a team that’s passionate about simple, fresh food and who think of Salka Valka as an extension of their own home-kitchen and living room.

There’s a real sense of home and happiness here – try some rhubarb cake for added bliss. Open all day for sandwiches and snacks, as well as meals – taste a sourdough topper why don’t you – there is a wide choice too of coffee, organic teas and juices, wine and beer.

Welcome to the kitchen All ingredients are sourced fresh, daily and as locally as is humanly possible. Fish of the day is so good that it’s usually just lightly seasoned and steamed, while PlokkfEURur, a traditional Icelandic fish “stew”, is Salka Valka’s signature dish, and one that goes down a storm with the locals. Also stealing the show on a regular basis is the 84

SALKA VALKA FISH & MORE

restaurant’s own fish soup, a tasty bowlful at any time of day. The warm, informal atmosphere centres around the open-style kitchen, so you can always see what’s cooking. Main dishes are served with rice, fruits and vegetables such as broccoli, sweet potatoes and apples. Delicious sauces are whizzed up in-house, and organic plantbased/vegan options are available at all times.

Skólavörðustigur 23, 101 Reykjavík +354 571 1289 salkavalka@gmail.com Open 09:00-22:00 (kitchen from 11:00) Free WIFI

Salka Valka - Fish & More

Friendly and authentic

Heart-warming meat soup, flatbreads and “hangikjöt” (smoked lamb), or a classic Icelandic pancake with a cup of hot coffee – Café Loki is the perfect place to get a proper taste of Iceland. Cosy, yet contemporary, it’s a family-run café with super friendly staff and homemade food that’s tasty as well as traditional. Using fresh, quality Icelandic ingredients, Café Loki has cooked up a simple and inspired menu. Plates such as “Baldur” and “Þór” give you the chance to try delicious rye bread topped with plokkfiskur (mashed fish) or herring and egg, and sheep-head jelly with flatbread and turnips – the kind of food eaten by generations of Icelanders.

the Black Death) with dried and salted fish to chew on and a bit of fermented shark for extra authenticity.

Central and scenic Bold and brave Fish of the day comes steamed or baked au gratin. The meat soup is made from scratch, with tender Icelandic lamb and fresh vegetables. Nothing gets wasted here. Even the bread gets whipped up into the café’s speciality – rye bread ice cream. With a taste not dissimilar to cookies & cream, it’s building a considerable fan base. And for bolder customers, “Icelandic Braveheart” is the favoured challenge – a shot of Brennivín (Icelandic schnapps commonly known as

Lokastígur is a bustling little street leading up to Hallgrímskirkja, the landmark church that towers above the city. Just round the corner from Skólavörðustígur, and across the road from the beautiful Einar Jónsson Museum and sculpture garden, Café Loki is well located for a welcome break from your sightseeing adventures. Try and get a seat upstairs for a great, unobstructed view. Café Loki Lokastígur 28, 101 Reykjavik +354 466-2828 loki@loki.is, www.loki.is Open daily 08:00-22:00 Plenty of space for groups (book ahead) 85

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s go shop Shopping in Iceland is a unique experience. Hand-knit woollens can be found on the same street as designer fashions and jewellery, while souvenirs range from stunning watches to the best of Icelandic films and music!

PROBABLY THE

WORLD’S SMALLEST WATCH MANUFACTURER

Made in Iceland

Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker ensures that we take our waterproofing rather seriously. Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. As a privately owned and operated company, we have the opportunity and duty to give all our timepieces the personal attention they deserve.

The collaboration of a watchmaker, collector and designer has produced the JS Watch co. Reykjavik, one of the world’s smallest manufacturers of stylish, quality watches. Is JS Watch co. Reykjavik, from the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, one of the watch industries best kept secret?

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. The quantity of watches produced is limited, giving them an exclusive and truly personal feel. Currently the watches are being worn on many celebrity wrists such as Viggo Mortensen, Quentin Tarantino and his holiness 14th Dalai Lama to name just a few.

Meet the watchmaker The JS Watch co. Watch factory and exclusive retail shop located at Laugavegur 62, in the trendy “101” area of Reykjavik provides customers with a unique opportunity to meet the watchmakers who assemble and test their timepiece. Quality control is administrated by Master Watchmaker Gilbert O. Gudjonsson who is one of Iceland’s best known watchmakers and has more than 40 years of experience.

Shop of the Year JS Watch co. Reykjavik was awarded as the Shop of the Year Award 2014 (Njarðarskjöldurinn) for their exceptional service and product knowledge, where customers have the opportunity to not only to see the watchmaking process in action, but also receive a certain amount of creative

license in the design of any watch they intend to purchase. With its innovative marketing and promotion campaign, JS Watch co. Reykjavik has attracted significant attention on social media, both at home and abroad. If you are interested in unique Icelandic design stop by and have a look at the JS Watch co. Reykjavik collection of quality mechanical timepieces.

Gilbert ‘O Guðjónsson Master watchmaker, Laugvegur 62 tel + (354) 551 4100, www.jswatch.com 89

www.jswatch.com

Iceland, delivering semi-sweet, bitter and milk chocolates in various shapes, sizes and pretty gift boxes. Omnom is another local chocolate maker that is quite special. The company sources premium organic beans from a range of cocoa fields around the world and tailors its chocolatemaking process to ensure that each variety of chocolate achieves its full potential. Haflidi Ragnarsson is one of the world’s top 100 chocolatiers and something of a purist in terms of the mighty cocoa bean. He works his magic to combine classic blends with more exotic flavours of pistachio, passion fruit, star anise and even Earl Grey tea. Freyja and Stefan B Chocolatier are among the other popular brands that offer sweets and liquorice. The perfect gifts, all these sweet treat will guarantee you a warm reception back home if only you can resist temptation during your flight!

DutyFree at Keflavik International Airport Take some Icelandic treasures home DutyFree Iceland provides a fantastic shop window on almost everything Icelandic, from unusual drinks, to sweet treats and natural skincare products. DutyFree Iceland is tax- and duty free, and it’s open day and night to all passengers of departing AND arriving flights. Make it your first and last destination in Iceland.

Distinctively icelandic - spirits There is always a great selection of dutyfree wines and spirits in store, featuring Icelandic favourites like Brennivín, clear schnapps that is considered Iceland’s signature drink. Icelandic Mountain Vodka is a much newer product, gluten free and made with pure Icelandic water. Distilled 90

seven times for an extra smoothness, it’s 40% alcohol and is getting rave reviews from its international fan-base. Vor is a premium gin from Eimverk distillery, made with organic barley and bursting with the flavours of the Icelandic countryside. Also from Eimverk is Flóki, the hand-crafted single malt. Its special taste comes from barley grown organically in volcanic soil at the Arctic Circle.

The Reykjavik Distillery is renowned for its rhubarb and juniper berry liqueurs, perfect neat, or in a cocktail. Take a look at awardwinning Reyka and Katla vodkas, as well as Birkir schnapps and Bjork liqueur, all delightfully smooth and uniquely Icelandic. Tópas and Opal Vodka shots are certainly not to be missed. And don’t forget about the beer – there is a huge selection of brands such as Viking, Boli and Egils Gull, not to mention the produce of a growing number of micro-breweries.

Sweet Iceland Confectionery is a big thing in Iceland, and when it comes to chocolate, Noi Sirius is a name to look out for. Established in 1920, it’s the largest confectionary manufacturer in

Quality skincare products Icelandic herbal oils and cosmetics sit next to international brands in DutyFree, offering health-giving benefits derived from the country’s mountains, valleys and hot springs. A recent scientific breakthrough in Iceland, based on 10 years of biotechnology research, has resulted in a new concept that is marketed here as BIOEFFECT® skin care (serum and day cream). It nourishes and replenishes skin cells, bringing a youthful glow to even the most stressed or sensitive skin, without harmful chemical compounds. The range of revolutionary biotech skin care products includes EFG Day Serum, which rejuvenates the skin and minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Other products use local Icelandic ingredients – Sóley Organic, for example, uses hand-picked wild Icelandic herbs in their eco-friendly products, while Taramar uses Icelandic seaweed and organic herbs. Villimey specialises in herbal salves and ointments, and Purity Herbs produces natural skin care products, including joint relief oils and volcanic body scrubs. DutyFree Iceland 235 Keflavik Airport Tel: +354 425 0410 www.dutyfree.is

Kirsuberjatréð Arts and Crafts

Stay dry, stay happy!

Fresh funky design - Créative local makers Design heaven

In their element

With beautiful bags made from fishskin, radish-paper bowls, quirky kitchen utensils, the softest leathers, gorgeous ceramics, brooches, mittens, jewellery, lamps and magical music boxes the likes of which you’ll never have seen – Kirsuberjatréð is simply design heaven. One of Reykjavik’s understated gems, this tiny store has a big reputation. Kirsuberjatréð, or the Cherry Tree, is a vibrant collective of ten contemporary Icelandic artists and designers, all women and all hugely talented.

The cherry tree encapsulates nature’s capacity for simple yet stunning displays of beauty, hence the collective’s name. A common thread reflected in the diverse creations of these inspired artists, is the Icelandic landscape, a wild yet natural backdrop combining subtlety, drama and colour. - Enjoy your visit, enjoy Iceland.

Colourful and contemporary The building is as colourful as its contents, and its 130-year history adds an extra dimension to any visit. The vintage 92

Reykjavik Raincoats

décor dates back in part to the 1920s, the perfect contrast for these contemporary and innovative crafts. There is some interesting upcycling going on, with pieces of driftwood used to adorn silvery jewellery, and handbags fashioned from old leather jackets. And a rich selection of clothing includes exquisite knitted sweaters and other handcrafted garments, inspired by icelandic nature.

Take a walk on the wild side

“If you don’t like the weather, wait a minute…” is the popular and alarmingly accurate phrase Icelanders use to describe their ever-changing environment. People here know that it’s always best to be prepared for the worst. And when the south east wind comes howling in carrying its precious cargo of rain, you can forget about opening an umbrella.

You can’t have a rainbow without a little rain Kirsuberjatréð Vesturgata 4, 101 Reykjavík +354 562 8990 www.kirs.is

Open Mon – Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat – Sun 10:00-17:00

The team at Reykjavík Raincoats has never let the rain get them down. Passionate about creating the perfect raincoat, they have taken the proven practicality of the old fisherman-style waterproofs and given them a new lease of life in the shape of

funky, fitted high-quality jackets that mix fashion with function. Lovingly handcrafted using only the finest materials, Reykjavik Raincoats are 100% waterproof. The contemporary rubberized cotton fabric incorporates double-stitched, sealed seams for protection against driving rain and piercing winds. Underarm vents help with ventilation, while the drawstring hood, front pockets and classic stud fasteners add authenticity to the design, a nostalgic nod to its proud Icelandic heritage.

Just add water! Stylish, high quality and something that you’ll treasure for a lifetime, Reykjavik Raincoats won’t dry out, crack or leak.

You can buy them online (size guide available and free shipping worldwide), or in person – at the Epal design store in the magnificent Harpa Concert Hall, at Laugavegur 70, or better still at the newly opened Reykjavik Raincoats downtown design studio and showroom on the corner of Hverfisgata 82 and Vitastigur. Here you can speak directly with the designers, learn how the raincoats are made and fall in love with the one that’s got your name on it. Once properly kitted out, you’ll be wishing for rain.

Reykjavik Raincoats Hverfisgata 82 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 571 1177 info@reykjavikraincoats.com www.reykjavikraincoats.com 93

Engaging Jewellery | Precious Memories PIPAR\TBWA • SÍA • 151437

When Icelanders decide to get married, there’s one special place they invariably head to first. The love affair with Jón & Óskar’s watch and jewellery store has been going on for more than 40 years, and these guys have designed, crafted and sold more engagement rings than probably any other outlet in the country.

Be mine for eternity

It seems that it’s not just the locals who are enjoying Jón & Óskar’s ring service either. More and more visitors to Iceland find themselves heady with the romance of the .. There something mountains, the lava, the is glaciers andabout the ... the Northern Lights. Handcrafted, each exquisite is unique. wilderness. Who could fail to be inspired pendant Fall in love This latest design of the ICECOLD line is made from silver and what better place could there be to Check out the latest choice of Swarovski and titanium and inspired by the magical Northern Lights. pop the question? If you want to make your jewels at the Kringlan and Smáralind memories of Iceland even more and special, shopping mals, or at 61 Laugavegur. The Contradicting volcanoes hot springs; quiet peaceful winter

.. There is something about ... the Northern Lights. Handcrafted, each exquisite pendant is unique. This latest design of the ICECOLD line is made from silver and titanium and inspired by the magical Northern Lights.

Available in Jón & Óskar stores, Laugavegur 61, Kringlan mall, Smáralind mall. Tel. +354 552 4910 // www.jonogoskar.is.

be prepared with a beautiful engagement ring as you set off for thundering waterfalls such as Gullfoss, the dramatic rift valley at Thingvellir or the serene glacial lake Jokulsarlon. Reykjavik itself has some pretty cool and romantic corners too.

Northern lights

mornings and the glaciers’ bellowing groans as they crack under the great forces of nature. Those are the contending forces that the ICECOLD founder and lead designer, Jón Sigurjónsson, master

stores are an absolute delight, sparkling with beautiful, elegant jewellery, and with service that´s always personal and attentive. Don’t leave Iceland without seeing the ICECOLD range, designed exclusively by Jón and Óskar themselves. And for lovebirds choosing wedding and engagement rings, there is a separate viewing room for peace and privacy. So what are you waiting for…let’s do it, let’s fall in love! Jewellery can also be ordered over the phone or online and posted to customers.

Jón & Óskar Laugavegur 61, 101 Reykjavik Jón & Óskar also located at shopping malls Kringlan and Smaralind + 354 552 4910 www.jonogoskar.is

ALL T- SHIRTS

KR 2.499 BASEBALL CAP

KR 1.999

DRINKING FLASK

KR 1.299

PLUSH TOYS

KR 1.999

BEANIE

KR 1.299

MOUSE MAT

KR 999

WHY PAY MORE shopicelandic.com Downtown Reykjavik

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CONTEMPLATE EVERYTHING BUT THE WEATHER

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Free Wiﬁ on board

Tickets available directly on the bus or online

Comfortable, modern coaches

Book now at airportexpress.is or call us in +354 540 1313 (24/7)

Lækjargötu 2 Reykjavík

You will find a selection of our Icelandic wool blankets at Geysir heima, Skólavörðustígur 12 and Geysir, Haukadalur.