ART & THE CITY

This year, Athens was crowned Europe's Leading Cultural City Destination at the World Travel Awards. Its major museums will indeed feed your soul, but it's the neighborhoods around them that will quench your thirst, quell your hunger and satisfy your shopping needs.Here are some of our favorite spots.

TEXT: ELEFTHERIA ALAVANOU & NENA DIMITRIOU

Left: Paul Klee, "Dynamics of a Head," The Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation. Right: The Archaic Acropolis Gallery on the 1st floor of the Acropolis Museum.

THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM Designed by Bernard Tschumi, the new Acropolis Museum opened its doors in 2009, on the most popular pedestrianized street in the city with stunning views of the Sacred Rock, home to the most significant structures of classical antiquity.

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THIS MODERN MUSEUM, constructed to meet the latest operational museology standards, has put pressure on the British Museum to return the marbles removed from the Parthenon by Lord Elgin in the early 19th century. Today, the Acropolis Museum is the most popular archaeological destination in the country, welcoming nearly two million visitors during the year before the pandemic.

The museum's thematic sections unfold over four levels: the ground floor showcases findings from the sanctuaries and the settlements that occupied the slopes of the Acropolis across all historical periods. The first floor presents almost the entire history of the site in a circular route, from the 2nd millennium BC to the end of antiquity. The third floor, the Parthenon Gallery, showcases the relief sculptures exactly as they crowned the temple, wrapped around a rectangular core that mirrors the precise orientation and dimensions of the Parthenon cella. Original marble sculptures are combined with plaster copies of those pieces held by the British Museum and other foreign museums. The steel columns of the hall reflect the Parthenon's columns, and the colossal figures once displayed in the two temple pediments have been mounted on pedestals on their respective sides, where they are visible from all directions. The glass walls enclosing the gallery allow a direct line of sight between the sculptures and the Parthenon itself, creating a spectacular setting that never fails to inspire awe.

An archaeological excavation under the building reveals details of life in the ancient city from the 4th century BC to the 12th century AD. Streets, residences, baths, workshops, and graves comprise an evocative mosaic that is no less impressive than the other exhibits housed in the museum.

A SHORT WALK

One of the most beloved streets of Athens is the pedestrianized Dionysiou Areopagitou that begins opposite Hadrian's Arch and ends at the foot of Filopappou Hill. This beautiful 830-meter street, paved in marble, brings ancient and modern Athens together, joining the Parthenon and the Roman-era Odeon of Herodes Atticus to the stately Art Nouveau and neoclassical mansions, and the artful pathways designed by Greek architect Dimitris Pikionis (1887-1968).

The Archaic Gallery, on the first floor of the Acropolis Museum.

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• The Acropolis Museum, 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou, open Mon-Thu 09:00-17:00, Fri 09:00-22:00, Sat & Sun 09:00 -20:00, admission: €5, theacropolismuseum.gr. The museum's café -restaurant has a terrace with a marvelous view of the Acropolis.

IN THE SHADOW OF THE SACRED ROCK

Grab a pie You rarely see Athenians lining up outside stores, and certainly not for bread or other bakery goods. But at the Takis Bakery, aka Artopoiotis, which means “Quality of Bread,” you’ll often spot a line waiting patiently for goods such as delicious little cheese pies made with buttery kourou dough, traditional bread rings coated with sesame seeds, warm croissants, delicious sourdough bread, French baguettes, or delectable American-style cakes. You won’t have any trouble finding it – just follow your nose! 14 Misaraliotou, Tel. (+30) 210.923.0052 Aperitivo time On a narrow street just a four-minute walk from the Acropolis Museum, there's a very popular spot. Drupes Spritzeria isn't high-end, but it has good vibes and a laid-back clientele happy to stand, drink and chat at its wooden counters. It serves fine charcuterie and cheeses, Italian wines and various versions of spritzes. 20 Zitrou, Tel. (+30) 697.030.0404 Pasta and whiskey Alexandros, a former ship's captain, opened a bar-bistro just a few steps from the Acropolis in the early 1990s. For the past 30 years, his establishment Duende has remained unchanged and perennially popular with the after-theater crowd, couples desiring a romantic evening out, and whiskey lovers. It is a dive bar (in the most positive sense possible) with jazz music. Alexandro's wife, Rena, is in charge of the menu, and her spaghetti bolognese has become well-known among the city’s night owls. 2 Tzireon, Tel. (+30) 210.924.7069 Treasures from the earth The young couple behind the almond green door at the Ellinika

EMST

Ellinika Kaloudia deli Drupes Spritzeria

Kaloudia deli on Hatzichristou Street next to the Acropolis Museum has been running the business for the past 15 years. The enterprise, which started as a small neighborhood grocery store selling everyday essentials, is now an institution on the Athenian gastronomy scene, offering an enviable range of local cheese and charcuterie products, handmade pasta, exceptional extra virgin olive oils and many deli delights. 8 Hatzichristou, Tel. (+30) 210.922.4060 Lalaounis legacy The beauty and craftsmanship of Greek and world jewelry, from its glorious past to the creative present, are on display at the Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum. Founded by master jeweler Ilias Lalaounis, the museum is one of the very few in the world dedicated to jewelry and the decorative arts. If you make your way there by December 10th, check out the temporary exhibition “Form Follows Function: 200+200 Decorative and Applied Arts, 1621-2021.” 12 Kalisperi, lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr A Post-Industrial Venue for Contemporary Art A short distance southwest of the Acropolis Museum is the National Museum of Contemporary Art (EMST), housed in the former FIX brewery. The original 1893 building was redesigned in 1957 by Modernist architect Takis Zenetos (1926 - 1977). A stellar example of postwar industrial innovation, this enormous structure was reborn as a museum in 2016, after a complete renovation and many years of interventions. The collection includes important contemporary paintings, sculptures, and installations by Greek and foreign artists. (emst.gr, Mon closed, Thu 11:00-22:00, all other days 11:00-19:00. Admission: €8).

Takis Bakery

Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum

Duende jazz bar

THE NATIONAL ART GALLERY AND THE B&E GOULANDRIS FOUNDATION Art lovers visiting Athens will be pleased to learn that the city's two greatest collections of paintings, with some 1,200 works in total, are just a kilometer apart.

© AMNA/GEORGE VITSARAS

At the National Art Gallery, where works by leading Greek artists share the space with creations from their international colleagues.

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WHEN THE NEW BUILDING of the National Art Gallery was delivered, Greece was celebrating the bicentenary of the revolution that led to its national freedom. The newly renovated National Art Gallery is proof of the incredible journey that the Greek visual arts has taken over the last two centuries.

The impressive new glass-andmetal structure more than doubled the available exhibition space of the old building, allowing at least 1,000 artworks to be exhibited from a permanent collection numbering over 20,000. You'll find the works of all the major Greek artists, including Nikiforos Lytras, Nikolaos Gyzis, Theophilos, Konstantinos Parthenis, Konstantinos Volanakis, Yannis Tsarouchis, Yannis Moralis, Nikos Engonopoulos and Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas. Through their works, you can trace the styles and movements that flourished on the Greek art scene, including marine art, orientalism, ethnography, portraiture and modernism.

Special mention should be made of the works of Domenikos Theotokopoulos (El Greco), one of the greatest artists this country has produced, as well as of the works of female artists who thrived in a largely male-dominated world; for instance, the “Girl on the Shore” (oil on canvas, c. 1922-1925) by Greek artist Thalia Flora-Karavia. One of the most notable artworks is undoubtedly “Street Market” a depiction of colorful human figures by Panayiotis Tetsis, which you'll see as you enter the museum.

Degas' “Little Dancer” graces the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation.

A newly opened wing features rtworks by leading artists from other European countries. Among these pieces is “Woman's Head”(1939) by Picasso; the artist gifted the work to the Greek people in honor of their role in the Resistance.The Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation Not far from the National Gallery is the wonderful Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation. In Greece, there have been many instances of wealthy art lovers, usually from the world of shipping, who have developed significant private collections, and Basil and Elise Goulandris fall into this category; the name of their foundation graces an international-caliber art museum featuring paintings and sculptures created by leading 19th and 20th-century artists, individuals who shaped the creative movements of their time and had an impact on the way we think today. The perception of freedom and the definition of beauty are just a few of the issues these masters were contemplating as they created some of the masterpieces on display at the museum; highlights include “Little Dancer” by Degas, “Countryside in Auvers-Sur-Oise” by Cezanne, “Eternal Springtime” by Rodin, “Olive

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• The National Art Gallery, 50 Vasileos Konstantinou, open Mon, Wed-Sun 10:00-18:00, admission: €10, nationalgallery.gr There is a café-restaurant in the museum. • The Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation, 13 Eratosthenous, open Wed-Thu & Sat-Mon 10:0018:00, Fri 10:00-20:00, admission: €10, goulandris.gr. The museum's courtyard café is an urban oasis. Picking” by Van Gogh, “Nude Woman with Raised Arms” by Pablo Picasso, “The Grasshopper” by Miro, and “Both Striped” by Wassily Kandinsky, as well as works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Jackson Pollock, Giorgio de Chirico, Francis Bacon and Fernando Botero. Make sure you see Amedeo Modigliani’s“Caryatid,” a sensual figure bearing little resemblance to the Caryatids at the Acropolis Museum.

A SHORT WALK

The Japanese Garden is located between Vasileos Alexandrou Avenue and Michalakopoulou and Niriidon streets. Here, you’ll find an area of Asian zen in the heart of bustling Athens. Although it extends over 3,500 square meters, it can be traversed within minutes. Nonetheless, with its lush vegetation and plentiful running water, it offers the calming power characteristic of certain aspects of Japanese culture.

A STROLL THROUGH PANGRATI

Updating a traditional kafenion The café Louvron first opened in 1937, and there’s clear evidence of this on display today. During the course of modest renovations in 2019, the new owners came across a clipping from the British newspaper The Daily Mail dating from 1938, which they framed and hung on the wall. As for any major changes, they freshened up the place and repaired the old refrigerator, but kept the overall style of the establishment and preserved its nostalgic atmosphere. Once a hangout for the intellectuals of its time offering “tea with cognac,” Louvron now serves coffee, desserts, and cocktails featuring Greek spirits (such as the Bloody Mary made with tsipouro), as well as an all-day menu featuring such popular Greek meze as keftedakia (fried meatballs), sausages, and more. 6 Eratosthenous, Tel. (+30) 210.701.6594 Italian sandwiches If you’re not in the mood for a snack at the courtyard café of the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation, you might instead opt to walk the short distance to the sandwich shop Borghese for an authentically Italian treat. The charcuterie – everything from mortadella Bolognese with pistachios to porchetta or prosciutto San Daniele – is sliced right before your eyes. The sandwich chef prepares all the sauces, mayonnaises, compotes, pickles, relishes, and jams for the 20 or so options on the menu. We can heartily recommend the one with goat’s cheese, green apple compôte, almond flakes and arugula, as well as the spicy BLT with pancetta and chili tomato relish. 19 Archelaou, Tel. (+30) 210.725.0511 Beautiful and delicious Grapes and Salt, a modern delicatessen, opened in the Pangrati area about a year ago. Valentina, the owner, stocks not only some of the best products in the country but also some of the

Hallelujah boutique Louvron café

most beautiful, as she seeks out both quality and appealing packaging. As a result, the store’s shelves are stunning to behold, but it’s what you can buy here that really counts: fine cheeses, charcuterie, wine, pasta and more. We recommend Melima pasta, Esophy chocolates with their unique fillings, natural herbal beverages from Rhoeco in Thessaloniki, and Kiss The Earth peanut butter from the island of Chios. 16 Pausaniou, Tel. (+30) 694.529.5924 Pizza pairing Tre Sorelle, a pizzeria awash in Italian aromas, became a hotspot on Archelaou Street almost from the moment it opened in 2018. Even now that the novelty has worn off, it’s still difficult to find a table here during the peak hours for Athens’ drinking and dining scene – namely, after 20:30. If you’re in the neighborhood and you do find a seat, it’s definitely worth giving a go to this uber-chic pizzeria, which features an impressive marble bar. Be prepared for a tasty match made in heaven: a light aperitivo, sparkling or not, paired with any one of their nine Neapolitan-style pizzas with fluffy dough edges. Their Parma pizza, for instance, goes great with a classic Negroni. 19 Archelaou, Tel. (+30) 211.407.2172 Apparel appeal Eleftheria Domenikou has been designing elegant women’s clothes made from select fabrics, mostly cotton, since 2008. Her style is simple, but her creations aren’t everyday garments; they’re fashion statements. In addition to her clothing designs, her small boutique, called Hallelujah, on Archelaou Street also stocks jewelry, accessories and some interior design objects; most of these are made in Greece, but there are a few items by select independent designers from abroad. 32 Archelaou, Tel. (+30) 210.723.5210.

Grapes and Salt deli Borghese

Tre Sorelle pizzeria

THE VASILISSIS SOFIAS MUSEUM DISTRICT In the single square kilometer in the city center that contains three of the capital's most important museums, it's possible for culture fans to stroll through fifty centuries of history and art.

The Museum of Cycladic Art is spread across two buildings, including this neoclassical gem, the Stathatos Mansion, which dates from 1895.

The collection of religious art (including this “Madonna with Child”) at the Byzantine and Christian Museum is extensive.

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YOU'LL NEED MANY HOURS, if not days, to explore the collections of the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture, the Museum of Cycladic Art, and the Byzantine and Christian Museum, which together cover 5,000 years of art and history, from the Cycladic civilization of 3000 BC to the 20th century.

Created by the Alexandria-born Antonis Benakis (1873-1954), a scion of one of the leading families of the Greek diaspora and a philanthropist with a larger-than-life personality, the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture is a treasury of Greek art, history and culture that should not be missed. Housed in the impressive neoclassical family mansion (an attraction in its own right) of the Benakis clan, the museum’s vast permanent collection will take you on a journey from prehistoric times to the 20th century, exploring all facets of Hellenism. Ancient artifacts and Byzantine icons, elaborate traditional garments and items of jewelry, paintings and mosaics, and even everyday objects, such as an iron axe from Epirus used to prune olive trees, a baglamas (long-necked bowl lute) from Crete and an early 18th-century violin from Asia Minor, compose a captivating national cultural narrative. If you enter from the side door (on Koumbari Street), you'll find a golden plaque on your right which reads: “Here lies the heart of Antonis Benakis.” This somewhat unusual donation to the collection was in accordance with the final wish of the museum’s founder, proving the depth of his dedication to his institution.

On the top floor of the museum is their newly renovated café-restaurant with fine views over the downtown area.

This sumptious reception hall, which comes from a 18th-century Kozani mansion, is on display at the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture.

THE BRAND

Established in 2012 in Athens, Greece, ATTIC BLACK features iconic, handmade pottery showcasing the Grecian heritage & culture. ATTIC BLACK is the retail brand for the ceramic products of the Workshop of THETIS Αuthentics Ltd. It is named after the black glaze of classical Attic pottery (6th-5th century BC) that forms the basis of the expertise of the Workshop.

THE PRODUCTS

ATTIC BLACK: THETIS ceramics are hand-thrown, hand painted with clay-based slips and the colours emerge during fi ring. The slips are produced by carefully selecting and processing natural clays in water. The colours are achieved by following the ancient process known as “3-stage fi ring” which involves successive stages of fi ring in oxidizing and reducing kiln atmosphere. The THETIS team has been able to recover and revive the ancient craft and thus off er utilitarian objects whose style, color, texture, chemical composition and microstructure cannot be distinguished from the original. The products include ancient toys, ceramic puzzles, excavation and conservation kits, jewelry, tableware (drinking vessels and other black glazed pottery from the Ancient Agora), cooking pots and artifacts inspired by the prehistoric pottery of the Cyclades and Thessaly. Following the spring 2020 lockdown due to the pandemic, the ATTIC BLACK shop was relocated to our renovated ceramic studio, where pottery and ancient Greek vase painting courses are being provided. Guided tours to ATTIC BLACK: THETIS’ Workshop are off ered free of charge.Contact us to design a unique experience, an outstanding ceramic collection or simply your Athenian souvenir.

The Museum of Cycladic Art focuses on the civilization that flourished in the central and southern Aegean archipelago between 3200 and 2000 BC, and on the iconic Cycladic marble figurines produced by that society. Unique in form and ingenious in their simplicity, these masterpieces significantly influenced modern art and design. Other noteworthy exhibits include the rare “cup-bearer” figurine, the statue of the “Mother Goddess” measuring 140 cm, and the one-off “Dove Vase,” a disc-shaped marble plate with 16 carved doves, possibly used in rituals and considered one of the most remarkable artifacts bequeathed to us by the Cycladic marble sculptors. Bring your historical journey to a close at the Byzantine and Christian Museum in Villa Ilissia, the

OF PARTICULAR INTEREST IS THE 4TH-CENTURY STATUE OF A MALE FIGURE WITH A LAMB ON HIS SHOULDER, SIMILAR TO THE ANCIENT GREEK STATUE KNOWN AS THE “MOSCHOPHOROS,” OR “CALF BEARER.”

former winter palace of French noblewoman Sophie de Marbois-Lebrun, the Duchess of Plaisance (1785-1854). This impressive building dating from 1848, which looks like it belongs in a knight’s tale, houses much of the museum’s collection, comprising 25,000 artifacts from different parts of Greece, Asia Minor and the Balkans, and spanning the period from the 3rd century AD to the 20th century. Of particular interest is the 4th-century statue of a male figure with a lamb on his shoulder, similar to the ancient Greek statue known as the “Moschophoros,” or “Calf Bearer,” but here representing Jesus as the good shepherd, as well as the marble plaques engraved with pagan and Christian symbols. If weather permits, a stroll through the museum’s beautiful gardens is a treat.

The figurines on display at the Museum of Cycladic Art are artworks from an ancient Bronze Age civilization that flourished in the Aegean.

A SHORT WALK

The War Museum (next to the Byzantine and Christian Museum) has an extensive collection of weapons and military memorabilia. Outside are a number of airplanes, including a 1954 Lockheed single-seat, single-engine fighterbomber, a remnant of an analog era.Vasilissis Sofias & 2 Rizari, open Mon-Sun 09:00-19:00, admission: €6. warmuseum.gr. The museum café is, in fact, a military mobile kitchen parked by the entrance.

The iconostasis and the frescoes of a Byzantine church in Evrytania, rescued from flooding during a 1960s hydroelectric project, have their own room in the Byzantine and Christian Museum.

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• The Benaki Museum of Greek Culture, 1 Koumbari & Vasilissis Sofias, open Mon, Wed, Fri-Sat 10:00-18:00, Thu 10:00-24:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, admission: €12, benaki.org. • The Museum of Cycladic Art, 4 Neofytou Douka, open Mon, Wed, Fri-Sat 10:00-17:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-17:00, admission: €12, cycladic.gr. • The Byzantine and Christian Museum, 22 Vasilissis Sofias, open Mon, Wed-Sun 08:30-15:30, admission: €4, byzantinemuseum.gr.

A WALK AROUND KOLONAKI

Coffee time Among the many thriving Greek roasteries, Redd stands out for its cosy atmosphere. In this tiny café close to the Museum of Cycladic Art, they serve exceptional espresso in handmade ceramic cups. You can specify just how you’d like your blend – with chocolate or fruity notes, robust or weaker, and sharper or milder acidity – and they’ll make a cup just for you. 8 Kapsali, Tel. (+30) 216.900.2141 Wholesome brunch As enticing as it is tasty, the menu at Me features fresh eggs, cold-pressed juices and energy bowls made with quality Greek products. If, however, you want to enjoy the wholesome food they serve at this attractive spot on a lively, tree-lined street, you’ll have to book a table because seating is limited and the place is extremely popular. 10 Kapsali, Tel. (+30) 210.724.2588 Quality Greek cuisine Papadakis attracts a mixed clientele, from locals in the know to lucky visitors and businesspeople who don’t want to jeopardize a deal with a poor dining experience. Here, everything is always the same: tasty and unpretentious. The emphasis is on seafood, prepared in traditional fashion by a chef who is well known in Greece for her homestyle recipes. The menu features fish soup, orzo with shrimp, and delicious pasta creations made with the freshest ingredients. 15 Fokilidou, Tel. (+30) 210.360.8621 Contemporary art in a stately mansion Dating to 1890, the Deligiorgis Mansion is one of the beautiful buildings designed by architect Ernst Ziller when Athens was just a large village. For the past four years, it has housed the Athenian branch of the Allouche Benias Gallery, founded in New York in 2014. It has already hosted exhibits by several leading Greek and international artists whose work reflects trends in pop culture,

Redd Coffee

Booktique bookstore

figurative art and neo-expressionism, including Kenny Scharf, Ross Bleckner and Donald Baechler. 1 Kanari, Tel. (+30) 210.338.9111 Sweet temptation At Sweet Alchemy, the boutique confectionery store run by celebrated pastry chef Stelios Parliaros, everyone gives in to temptation. Dainty chocolates, sweet tarts, Greek-style turron and amazing gâteaux de voyage beckon from glass display cases. If you want something sweet to enjoy while walking, try the cappuccino cream in a small glass, one of the chef’s most notable creations. 24 Irodotou, Kolonaki, Tel. (+30) 210.724.0205 In vino veritas Paliokalias, Gerodetis, Santameriana: the names of some Greek wines can be a bit of a tongue twister. At the wine store Mr. Vertigo, the experienced staff will know what you’re looking for, even if you can’t pronounce it. Mr. Vertigo specializes in wines made from indigenous varieties, terroir wines, natural and minimal-intervention wines. On its shelves are many bottled revelations, including rare local varieties, limited edition wines and distilled spirits of the highest quality that you can take home with you. 15 Filikis Etairias, Tel. (+30) 210.725.0862 For the love of books Are you into fantasy? Classical literature? Greek history? Booktique offers a wide range of books for all tastes and ages, with an extensive bilingual collection (Greek and English), translations and original works by English-speaking writers who lived in, were inspired by, or wrote about Greece. Our recommendations include "Athens: City of Wisdom" by Bruce Clark, "The Greek Revolution and its Global Significance" by Roderick Beaton, and translated collections of Greek poetry by award-winning poets Kiki Dimoula and Michalis Ganas. 21 Patriarchou Ioakeim, Tel. (+30) 210.723.5425

Me restaurant Mr. Vertigo wine store

Allouche Benias Gallery

THE NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Be prepared for the fact hat you won’t be able to see it all.

© GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE At the National Archaeological Museum, the “Jockey of Artemision” (140 BC)

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THE NATIONAL Archaeological Museum (NAM) is such a vital part of its neighborhood that it has given its name (“Museio”) to the entire area. With more than 11,000 objects spread out over 8,000 square meters of interior space, this is one of the world’s most important repositories of ancient art and the largest such institution in Greece. Housed in a beautiful neoclassical 19th-century building, NAM is home to some to the most iconic ancient artifacts ever unearthed.

Wander through the centuries, from the 6th millennium BC to the 4th century AD, marveling at exhibits from prehistoric Thira and the Minoan and Mycenaean civilizations through to the archaic, classical and Hellenistic eras, as well as rare discoveries from ancient Egypt, sculptures, figurines, pots and metalwork tools. Among the most well-known exhibit items is the “Spring Fresco,” created in the prehistoric settlement of Akrotiri on Santorini before that community was buried by an volcanic eruption; the early Cycladic marble figurine called “The Harpist of Keros” (2800-2300 BC); the gold funerary “Mask of Agamemnon” from Grave Circle A in Mycenae (16th century BC); a giant bronze statue from 460 BC that has been identified as depicting either Zeus or Poseidon; pieces of the mysterious Antikythera Mechanism (150-100 BC); and a monumental sculpture of a young horse rider known as the “Jockey of Artemision” (140 BC).

Before leaving the museum, be sure to take a look at its interior garden, restored a few years ago and planted with many indigenous plants and herbs, including oregano, thyme and dittany.

Relaxing on the grounds of the National Archaeological Museum

A SHORT WALK

The Pedion tou Areos is the most extensive public garden in the municipality of Athens, an oasis of calm nestled in the urban environment of the city center. This green space is shared by statues of kings, busts of Greek revolutionary heroes, and crowds of residents from the neighboring Kypseli, Gyzi and Omonia. After many years, the locals are rediscovering it as a vibrant cultural venue that periodically hosts art installations, concerts and festivals.

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• 44 28is Oktovriou (Patission), Tue 13:00-20:00, open Wed-Mon 08:30-15:30, admission: €6, namuseum.gr. There is a café in the museum.

EXPLORING EXARCHIA AND KYPSELI

The sourdough spot The area around the Archaeological Museum doesn't offer many notable options for food and drink, so you'll have to walk approximately 10 minutes to the neighborhood of Exarchia instead. There, the Black Salami Microbakery, on eminently hip Zoodochou Pigis Street, specializes in bread and other baked products, all made with natural sourdough. Try the fluffy wild greens pie, the fragrant focaccia or the sandwich of the day. They also do a lovely brunch box with fresh bread and eggs, which you can enjoy on the spot or take with you on your walk. 71 Zoodochou Pigis Unisex and sustainable Young designer Christina Christodoulou spent much of her childhood at her parents’ clothing workshop. She later studied art history at the Athens School of Fine Arts and went on to receive a Master’s Degree in textiles from the Swedish School of Textiles. A few years ago, after her return to Athens, she created “It’s a Shirt,” a brand of lovely, loose-fitting shirts for guys and girls, made from superior quality Greek fabrics chosen with sustainability in mind. Christina’s entire collection is available at her industrial-style showroom and boutique in Exarchia. 67 Asklipiou, Exarchiaitsashirt.gr Refuel with wine Tanini Agapi Mou is an Exarchia wine bar offering exclusively Greek natural wines, all products of gentle vinification, a trend recently adopted by many bars and restaurants in Athens. Here, you can choose from 100

Black Salami Microbakery

Kopria store

labels available by the glass and discover some rare varieties accompanied by recommended food pairings: Roditis with winter beetroot salad or fish tartare; Xinomavro or Mavroudi with fine Greek charcuterie. Don't be afraid to strike up a conversation with the clientele; they're friendly. 91 Ippokratous, Tel. (+30) 211.115.0145 A classic hideout If you're looking for a genuinely cozy watering hole, head down Patission Street, away from the museum and towards the neighborhood of Kypseli, for about a kilometer or so. Au Revoir opened in 1958, making it the oldest bar in Athens. Designed by the renowned Greek modernist architect Aristomenis Provelengios, the bar has kept its totally 1960s decor intact. Actors, writers, artists, and journalists regularly frequented the bar before it became more widely known and began attracting a broader clientele. Order something classic, like an Old Fashioned or a Dry Martini. 136 28th Oktovriou (Patission), Tel. (+30) 210.823.0474 Plant parenting Kopria (“Manure”) opened in 2018 as Athens’s first trendy plant and garden store, selling those exotic photogenic plants you see in modern interior magazines or influential Instagram accounts, along with a wide range of gardening tools and accessories. The knowledgeable staff will be happy to recommend a plant for your home or a bouquet for that special occasion. The flower arrangements at this Exarchia shop look like items out of a fairy tale. 30 Eresou & Zoodochou Pigis, Tel. (+30) 211.113.2535.

Tanini Agapi Mou wine bar

Au Revoir Bar

It's a Shirt Boutique