27 minute read
ARTISTIC IMPRESSIONS
EXPLORE Artistic
In recent years, many young creatives from different countries have relocated to Athens, finding inspiration in its people, its culture and its urban neighborhoods. So what do they most love (or hate) about living and working in the Greek capital?
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TEXT: VLASSIS KOSTOUROS PHOTOS: THALIA GALANOPOULOU
Impressions 48 — GREECE IS WINTER 2022-2023
FOR THE ITALIAN FOUNDER and owner of the clothing brand Acero, Metaxourgeio is the neighborhood with the most intriguing imagery.
“My creative self has many facets; I’m involved in different media and focused on social practice, all while running Acero, where the garments feature designs painted on silk fabrics.
“I studied in London and lived for several years in Argentina, but the pandemic outbreak found me in Colombia, collaborating on an opera production based on the stories of trans sex workers, which was unfortunately canceled. I decided to spend the quarantine period in Athens with a lover I had, but I ended up falling in love with the city, where I immediately felt at home.
“For the last two years, I have been living in Metaxourgeio, in an old industrial warehouse which I’ve turned into a home and workplace. I’ve never been to any other neighborhood in the world with so many fascinating images. Every evening when I go out to water the plants, I see three Chinese men playing mahjong at a table in the street under the neon lights of a seafood store. At the Chinese mini-market nearby, sacks of rice have been placed in the street to reserve parking spaces, while just a block away, there are fancy café-bars where you can chill while listening, for example, to tropicalia and bossa nova. Interestingly enough, this diverse universe is also where the Greek President still resides; passing her home, you might see members of her security staff taking a break, snacking on potato chips.
“I can’t deny it; I now feel that I belong entirely in this complicated and perplexing neighborhood. So what if a number of taxi drivers have tried to persuade me to leave the area? I feel much safer in Metaxourgeio than I did in South America. It was only when I moved to Athens that I realized I’d been living in a state of constant alert because I could have been stabbed at any time of day or night. Here, even though I might find some drug addict’s used syringe lying on the pavement, I’m more relaxed.
“Athens is the only European city I know with so many artisans and so many small shops with plenty of treasures hidden in their drawers, both of which are extremely useful for my creative process. The city has an energy that you absorb but can then discharge on a trip to one of the enchanting Greek islands. At every opportunity, I try to improve my Greek. I’m now beginning a new line of clothing for Acero, which I intend to make available exclusively in Greece, and I’m looking forward to visiting the village of Soufli, near the country’s northern border, to check out its top-quality silk production.”
Virginia Francia
@virginia_francia, @acero_clothing
SETTLING DOWN IN ATHENS was more challenging and less affordable than he expected, but the visual artist gradually fell in love with the city; rebetiko songs reignited his passion for music, too.
“I grew up in Naples and moved to Paris in search of work. Shortly after, I enrolled in the Beaux-Arts de Paris, where I studied for five years and began to paint. I’ve been living in Athens for almost four years, first in Gazi, then Plateia Viktorias, and now Exarchia. I came to be with the person I love, which was undoubtedly one of the best decisions I’ve ever made.
“I gradually became acquainted with the city, made friends, learned the language, and I’m delighted that I’m still here. Athens is very different from Paris but quite similar to Naples. I’m fascinated by the style of its buildings and the excellent food. I feel fortunate to have discovered rebetiko songs, which prompted me to start playing music again, as I did when I was younger. On the streets of Athens, you can meet the most talented musicians!
“I like the people and the language, and I enjoy getting around on a scooter or on foot. I don’t like it when I see Athens feeling ‘obligated’ to achieve the goals of other European cities, imitating realities that have no place here. On the other hand, city taxes are really high for the quality of services provided.
“After months of searching, I found a studio to rent in Kolonos, with excellent light, the best thing for a painter. Finding an affordable place in Athens to live or work has become very difficult. Many came here thinking it was a cheap and beautiful place, but my reality was very different. If you’re on a Greek salary, things are even more difficult. And being an artist means that at times you have enough money to live on and other times you don’t. In Athens, it’s difficult, though not impossible, to sell your work. To help me get by, I play rebetiko in coffee shops and tavernas some evenings. I’m not particularly inspired by the city itself, given that my work involves familiarity and emotions. I’m more inspired by the people around me, a phrase I will hear on the street, or the light that falls on a face, a hand, an object.”
Claudio Coltorti
@claudio_coltorti
George Theocharis
OUR DISCUSSION BEGINS with an acknowledgment that the world of international affairs is changing. The global economy is on a knife-edge again, with global economic uncertainty surging amid war, geopolitical unrest, an energy crisis and spiraling inflation.
How to invest in uncertain times? “You employ the appropriate investment strategy,”says George Theocharis. “During uncertain times, there are even more opportunities in the market. Look for them, keep a cool head, stay invested and focused on your long-term goals.’’
Theocharis is an economist by training. He studied economic policy at Columbia University in New York and International Economics at The Graduate Institute in Geneva, IHEID, and worked in the Global Macroeconomic Department of the World Bank, as well as in the Strategy, Policy, and Economics Department at the International Finance Corporation (IFC), in Washington, D.C. He has also worked in asset management in Switzerland.
It was these experiences which led to the creation of “The MP Capital,” an investment advisory firm. “We craft tailormade investment strategies to meet individual financial needs by considering specific investment objectives, risk tolerance, and time horizon,” Theocharis says, and then turns to the domestic market.
“Greece is a breeding ground for investments. We maintain an overall positive outlook for the Greek market. We believe that industries like tourism, construction, real estate, energy, manufacturing, logistics, agriculture, and exports will continue to provide good returns to investors. Greece is a promising investment destination.” n
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A PRODUCER AND DIRECTOR of animated films, Thomas doesn’t feel that Athens is “the new Berlin,” as it’s often called, but that’s another reason why he likes the city.
“I grew up in Rome and studied cinema in the UK. At university, I became friends with two Greeks, Dimitris Lambridis and Antonis Kitsikis, and I often visited Athens to see them, spending long periods here.
“In the summer of 2015, I decided to go on a pilgrimage of my own, traveling on foot from Rome to Athens. Fifty-one days in, I realized I wanted to live in Greece. I split my time between here and Rome for three years, and I learned Greek without taking any lessons, just by listening to Greek friends talking and, of course, to lots of Greek music. I moved to Athens permanently in 2018 and rented a house in Gyzi. Today, all my friends and contacts are here, and I’ve found the right professional environment to pursue my creative goals, thanks to the attention that my stop-motion animation film ‘Rebetiko’ garnered. I’ve lived in different neighborhoods in the city, from Plateia Amerikis to Ano Patisia. At present, I’m living in the Neapoli district. What I do miss in Athens are parks and easy access to green spaces where I can exercise. I’d like to be able to play soccer without having to drive to Acharnes in the northwest or Glyfada in the south.
“Another thing that I had difficulty getting used to was the sight of police units in full gear on the streets; now, when foreign friends who visit ask me ‘What’s wrong?’ and I reassure them it’s normal. In any case, Athens is the place I now call home. Artistically speaking, I know it’s not the new Berlin, although some have dubbed it that, but that’s why I like it even more. I’m totally in harmony with the city’s creative community; it’s small, and we all know one another, which is why we’re ready to support and help each other. If I were to wish for something for the future, it would be for our work to be taken more seriously and not seen as a hobby. I would like the city to become better educated regarding beauty and poetry, in the things that genuinely elevate the spirit.”
Thomas Künstler
@thomas.kunstler
Georg Jensen:
A STYLE OF BEAUTY THAT OUTLASTS THE TEST OF TIME
Moonlight Grapes Earring, Yellow gold 18 kt
Moonlight Grapes Collection, Sterling silver
VIVIANNA Bangle Watch, Stainless steel, Swiss Quartz
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From the Vivianna bangle watch that was designed in 1969 and recognized as a masterpiece of understated Scandinavian design to the sleek and slender HK Pitcher conceived by legendary sculptor Henning Koppel, each iconic creation at Georg Jensen is a statement in itself.
With over a century of experience in design, Georg Jensen is always looking ahead and bridging the gap between yesterday and tomorrow. Its recent Moonlight Grapes Collection, inspired by a 1920s silver design, reflects a strikingly contemporary attitude that marries Art Nouveau aesthetics with a modern expression. Including a necklace, ring and earrings, this enthralling collection is crafted in sterling silver and diamondset 18K gold in asymmetrical shapes.
With modernity comes color, and the HK Pitcher is now set to a fresh palette of vibrant hues that brings the mid-century original design into the present. Even this modern revision, however, is tied to the past; the shades of blue, purple and green that have been used were inspired by Henning Koppel’s original 1950s sketches, retrieved from the Georg Jensen archives in Copenhagen, in yet another move that blends past with present, classic with modern, and graceful with audacious. n
KOPPEL Bowl, Stainless steel
HALF SOUTH AFRICAN and half German, the ceramicist-textile designer explains why he remains loyal to Athens, even though at times his family begged him to leave.
“I lived in East London, and then in Milan and Naples for many years. In mid-2015 I came to Athens for a short vacation and never left. Nightlife in London was over for me when all the legendary bars began being converted into shoddy, outrageously expensive apartments. London and Milan sadly became more like New York, very strait-laced cities that were all about money.
“Athens looked like the perfect choice, and I allowed it to charm me. Its youthful vibes remind me of the simmering energy of East London in 2005. It also reminds me quite a lot of Naples, the most absurdly impressive and dangerous city I’ve ever known. Athens and Naples are like ancient twin sisters. Everyone in my professional environment was shocked when I chose to move here. My family, too, begged me to leave. But you can’t leave Athens when you love it just a little more than you hate it. The reality I experience here as an artist is a sense of insecurity, as if I’m caught inside some sort of personal bubble. My studio is in Kerameikos, a neighborhood near the city center where ancient pottery workshops once stood. I work on fabric for men’s clothing for both Greek and international markets, and I also exhibit and sell my modern ceramic items. I’m very fortunate to have the support of a brilliant curator, Panos Giannikopoulos, who spurs me into action and helps me overlook the fact that Athens can be quite a harsh city. Although it exhausts me, I cannot imagine creating anywhere else, at least not for now. It may be that my ‘somewhere else’ turns out to be a remote bucolic village in the Greek countryside – the present-day European dream!
“The city, Greece in general, and the eastern Mediterranean region as a whole, are all significant influences for my work. In whatever I create, you’ll find elements of injustice and tragedy, grief and loss, concepts inevitably shaped by the turbulent Mediterranean and this hypnotic, melancholic creature that is Greece.”
Klaus Jürgen Schmidt
@klausjurgenschmidt
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HER QUEST FOR EXPERIMENTATION and her own artistic voice brought the ceramicist to Athens, where, she feels, time seems to move at a slower pace than elsewhere.
“My roots are based in both France and China. I studied product and textile design in Paris, after which I wanted to try and live somewhere else to experiment and find my own artistic language. I moved, on instinct, to Athens to work in ceramics, which is now my principal activity. I also work with beeswax.
“My time here has helped me develop my sculpting abilities. I’ve collaborated with local artists, designers and organizations on many projects and exhibitions. For the first few years I lived in Plateia Viktorias, then in Peristeri, and later in Votanikos, before finally moving to Merkouri Square in Ano Petralona. It’s a charming, diverse neighborhood where I feel that I’m at the center of everything. I’ve made friends of all ages and origins. I enjoy daily walks on Filopappou Hill, where you find a diferent sense of time and space. All over Athens, time seems to move at a slower pace, and everyone treats public spaces as extensions of their home. You find friendly, hospitable people everywhere, ready with a warm greeting, as well as individuals who genuinely care about the neighborhood strays.
“What I don’t like is the traffic and the fact that no provision is made for wheelchair users. I wish the city were more welcoming to all. From an artistic viewpoint, Athens is an unlimited source of inspiration. Of course, being an artist here can be challenging, especially when selling your work. I find it difficult and rely on my connections in other countries. Nevertheless, here you can easily find affordable space to work, which is virtually impossible in Paris, for example. Athens has a sense of community and mutual support, which I find moving, and the city allows you to experiment, to think and develop an idea with complete freedom.”
Camille Romagnani
@camille.romagnani
Enjoy the fi nest of Greek Hospitality
Your “home” under the Acropolis
Point A Herodion Hotel Atrium
Workout Area-Herodion Hotel Philippos Hotel Gargaretta
Acropolis View Residence Apartment Herodion Family Apartment
Herodion Hotel is more than accommodation and doesn’t provide only a room to stay. It’s a place where timeless elegance and contemporary design meet the rich historical heritage of Athens. The hotel has been hosting guests from all over the world for the last 47 years. Philippos Hotel: The guests of our hotel live a remarkable experience in a city that celebrates its rich past in every way. The cosy and chic ambiance of the interiors is enhanced with contemporary elements while our premium services give to accommodation a new meaning. Point-a: At the 5th fl oor of Herodion hotel, you can fi nd an urban paradise of unique allure and live the gastronomy experience at the top. Atrium: is a wonderful greenhouse full of light that operates all year long. A remarkably inviting space with sofas, a fi re-place, a classic 360o bar made from walnut wood and tables. Gargaretta: The name of one of the oldest neighborhoods of Athens, which tends to be forgotten with the passage of time. If you are looking for an inspiring and entertaining bistrot, you are in the right place. Apartments: Residential hospitality the new step: The Acropolis View Residence and the Herodion Family Apartment are the new additions under this Hospitality Group’s umbrella that underline the Group’s forward-looking philosophy and embrace the needs of modern travelers. Large, independent spaces where one can enjoy privacy but also the exclusive services of the Herodion Hotel: from breakfast and Jacuzzi, laundry and room service to priority for reservations at Point-A.
A VISUAL ARTIST AND co-founder of Noucmas, a non-profit studio and exhibition space in Kypseli, Vincent believes Athens is special because it has an emotional effect on its residents.
“I moved to Athens in 2017 after completing my studies, driven by a need to make a new beginning far from Paris. I found a city full of life and creative people, such as Katerina Charou and Olga Souri, with whom in 2019 I co-founded Noucmas, a space we use as our studio and gallery for other artists. I came into contact with many talented Greek artists, primarily young, around my age, who had either returned after studying abroad to support their country or who had never left, struggling through economic hardship to realize their dreams, working with some very impressive ideas. I was stimulated by the willingness to act collectively that I found here. After a while, of course, I realized that this willingness goes hand-in-hand with a prolonged state of collective disappointment, making me feel lethargic when I stay here for an extended period. Athens has this ability to mix such contrasting elements and make it appear as if they’ve always co-existed.
“Although I learned to speak and read Greek, the longer I spend in Athens, the more I feel I’ll never understand what’s happening around me. This city is like a house that belongs to no one. Everyone’s from somewhere else. This is true of my neighborhood, Plateia Amerikis, too. All my neighbors are so unlike one another that it’s our diversity that connects us.
“In my eyes, Athens is beguiling because it intensifies emotions. Here, you experience everything more powerfully. Its energy is in constant flux. It appears to inhale the light and exhale the darkness at a frantic pace. Why does Athens breathe so quickly? One might say because it is tired. It is trying really hard.”
Vincent Meyrignac
@meyrignacvincent
EVEN THOUGH SHE BECAME an Athenian several years ago, this French artist still finds charm in those typical city moments such as when her local kiosk owner cheerfully calls her “Darling.”
“I decided to move from Paris to Athens five years ago, after a difficult period in my personal life. I was handling health problems, a divorce, and a massive disappointment in my professional mentor. Out on a limb, without anything to hold onto from my previous life, I needed a change. I spent a wonderful summer on the Greek islands and met someone who inspired me to live in Greece, supported my artistic efforts, and introduced me to many of my current friends.
“In contrast with Paris, where you feel you can’t escape the concrete, Athens has the sea close by, which liberates you. Also, as a woman, I feel safe here. I’ve never been followed on the street, insulted, pressed to give my telephone number, or groped on the metro – all of which can be daily occurrences in Paris. I like the Greek language, especially the slang, and the kiosk owners who call me ‘Gorgeous’ or ‘Darling,’ terms they might use with their niece or a passing cat. I like the familiarity in the energy of Athens and how close you can get to its rich history. It’s amazing – you can sit on the same slab of marble that someone sat on thousands of years ago. What I don’t like at all is the heavy traffic!
“I’ve recently become a member of Sektor30, an artist-run workspace with workshops for sculpting and engraving. I go to Neos Kosmos on my skateboard daily, working alongside other artists. I would definitely not be able to afford such a space anywhere else. Many artist friends have been able to rent workshops and homes in Athens for far less money than they would have to spend in London, Paris, Berlin or Rome. I’ve also observed that, in Athens, when you say you work in the arts, everyone shows respect and interest, something that does not often happen in France, where you might be considered lazy or even a little strange. One of the most valuable gifts from my time here is that ‘Greekness’ that has become an inexhaustible source of inspiration, investigation and creation for me. My sculpture is deeply influenced by Cycladic art, and my emotions have become built around a specific Greek concept, ‘harmolypi,’ which literally means “joyous sorrow” and is used to express a bittersweet feeling. Athens has gifted me this emotion.”
Diane Alexandre
@dianealexandre
GREECE HAS
THE POWER
The prospect of relocating to Greece, at least for the winter months, has become more attractive due to the international energy crisis. A series of initiatives and policies have kept the cost of electricity at levels lower than many other European countries, while at the same time offering incentives for energy-saving upgrades.
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GREECE IS ONE OF THE LEAST EXPENSIVE European countries as regards electricity prices. With the resources contributed by energy providers – in particular the Public Power Corporation (ΔΕΗ), which holds the largest market share – Greek consumers are enjoying low prices, despite the global energy crisis.
At the same time, electricity suppliers are helping households prepare for what’s to come with “smart e-consultants” such as those available at ΔΕΗ, offering customers personalized and practical advice on how to access incentives for switching to more cost-efficient and environmentally friendly heat pumps and for installing photovoltaics.
So, if the cost of energy is a deciding factor in choosing a place to live on either a permanent or temporary basis, Greece holds an advantage over other European countries. In a highly volatile environment, consumers in Greece can count on price stability for the next several months, and can look forward to opportunities for energy upgrades and other measures, including assistance in the replacement of energyconsuming appliances as well as targeted investments that will guarantee savings without making customers change consumption habits.
With all this to offer, how can we best convince an ex-pat – or even a skeptical Greek – of the energy advantages this country holds over other nations? We’ve assembled some strong arguments, including a state-supported mechanism for households and businesses that’s likely to be adopted by other European countries, as well as actions ensuring power sufficiency and clear incentives to make energy-saving investments provided by both the Greek government and by electricity suppliers.
01. pricing policy
THE EU HAS YET TO BUILD a mechanism acceptable to all its member states to keep down natural gas prices and, by extension, electricity prices. In Greece, the government and power-generating companies introduced in July 2022 a mechanism that guarantees stable – and comparatively low – electricity prices for households and businesses. According to the Household Energy Price Index (HEPI) for September, the final price (with all individual charges included) of one kilowatt-hour of electricity in Athens was 0.2952 euros, compared to the 0.3461-euro average of the 27 EU member states. London, Helsinki, Stockholm, Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Berlin, Brussels, Rome, Prague, and Vienna are European capitals with significantly higher prices than Athens. Moreover, the short-term forecast is that Greece will improve its ranking compared to other European countries.
02. efficiency measures
GREECE HAS NOT BEEN CUT OFF from the supply of Russian natural gas, but it has prepared for this eventuality. Lignite units are operating, and natural gas units can, if necessary, be converted to produce electricity using oil, while the Revythoussa facility has already doubled its production capacity in terms of liquefied natural gas (LNG) conversion. The uninterrupted supply of electricity to Europe was not guaranteed a few months ago when Russia permanently cut off the flow of natural gas via the Nord Stream pipeline under the Baltic Sea. Now, however, energy security is no longer in question.
03. favorable taxation
ELECTRICITY IN GREECE is subject to a VAT rate of only 6%. While Belgium, the United Kingdom, Malta, Poland, and Spain enjoy a similar rate, most European countries have chosen to apply the standard VAT rate on electricity. For example, in Austria, Latvia, and Lithuania, the rate is 17%; in Denmark, 20%; and in Hungary, 21%. Of course, electricity is also subject to excise duty in addition to VAT. Again, the sum of all charges in Greece amounts to 19% of the final price, half that of Denmark (38%) and significantly lower than the UK (33%), Germany (26%), and Finland (24%).
04. more initiatives for less consumption
THE GREEK GOVERNMENT AND PPC have introduced a set of incentives and disincentives to encourage consumers to save energy. ΔΕΗ charges households that exceed a certain consumption level more for their electricity, while the government subsidy calculation mechanism does the same thing but with a difference: in addition to the counter incentive, there is also an incentive. Anyone who manages to reduce consumption by 15% compared to last year receives a significant discount on their bill. Thus, energy savings are compensated twice: the bill goes down, and the charge per kilowatt-hour is reduced.
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05. monitoring and saving applications
WHILE GENERIC ENERGY-SAVING advice can be helpful – the European Commission has adopted relevant directives for all its citizens – nothing beats personalized guidance tailored to the needs of each consumer. ΔΕΗ allows each consumer to compare their electricity consumption with the average in their neighborhood or broader area and, by doing so, to set a specific goal. This approach is more effective in helping consumers realize that investing in a building upgrade is the best way to save energy and money. More power saving is achieved through installing windows with a thermal break and double glazing compared to old wooden window frames with single glazing. Heat pumps are more efficient than traditional heaters. Heating domestic water with a solar water heater is cheaper than an electric resistance heater. Τhe platform of ΔΕΗ asks consumers to enter data on the use of electrical appliances and calculates how much energy they will save if they replace them.
06. sunshine means free energy
HOUSEHOLDS ARE ALREADY being encouraged to install photovoltaics and turn into energy producers. A subsidy program for installing 200,000 photovoltaic panels on the roofs of homes and businesses is expected to begin soon. With more days of sunshine in Greece compared to other European countries, the return on investment in photovoltaics is more significant.
07.switching to “clean” sources
STILL A TECHNOLOGY UNFAMILIAR to many people, heat pumps harness heat from ambient air to produce at least four thermal kilowatt-hours, using only one kilowatt-hour of electricity. In other words, if the heating cost for an electric radiator is 0.24 euros per hour, with a heat pump, it drops to 0.06 euros – one-quarter of the cost! Europe is already rushing in this direction, with Germany ordering and installing hundreds of thousands of such devices. Greece is following suit. In addition to government programs to subsidize the installation of heat pumps, electricity suppliers are also contributing. ΔΕΗ, for example, has launched a consulting department for heat pumps, introduced a specific pricing policy, initiated collaborations with major heat pump producers, and offered discounts for purchasing such devices.
+ the climate factor
WHY IS GREECE FAMOUS ALL OVER THE WORLD? For mild weather conditions and plenty of sunshine! Simply put, it is easier to heat your home when the average temperature, even in the winter, is above 10 degrees Celcius (Athens data, 1991-2020). No matter how you look at it, the mild Greek winter is an advantage during an energy crisis!
The Future is Here
Increase in power produced from Renewable Energy Sources with the aim of reaching a share of 40% in 2026. Immediate installation of 1,000 charging stations throughout Greece, projected to increase to 10,000 in the medium term. New GreenPass service guaranteeing consumers that the energy they consume is being offset by energy produced from renewable sources. Significant reduction – of 49% – of lignite production between 2019 and 2021.
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