THE HARTLEY NEW WISLEY 8
ERECTION AND GLAZING INSTRUCTIONS FROM HARTLEY BOTANIC LIMITED.
RIDGE COVER
VENTILATOR ASSEMBLY
RIDGE CAP PLAIN END SINGLE PANE CROSS MEMBER DOOR END ASSEMBLY
GUTTER ASSEMBLY
SPAN ASSEMBLY
LOUVRE
SIDE BASERAIL ASSEMBLY ALUMINIUM KICK PLATE
It is essential that these instructions are read carefully all the way through before starting erection. It is also suggested that each part is identified and how and when it is used to complete the structure. The plinth on which the greenhouse is to be placed must be level and flat. An uneven foundation will lead to frustrating delays and subsequent disappointment.
page 1
TOOLS 1 - 8mm Drill (H.S.S or suitable for Aluminium) 1 - 8mm Masonry Drill 1 - Power Drill 1 - Medium Screwdriver - Slotted 1 - Medium Screwdriver - (Posi-Drive/Philips Head) 1 - Ring Spanner 1 - Open End Spanner 10mm AF Spanner for M6 Screws 8mm AF Spanner for M5 Screws, 1 - Tape Measure 1 - Small Hammer Step Ladders
SCREWS ETC... TYPE ‘A’ Stainless steel hexagon head bolt M6 x 12mm long complete with nut. TYPE ‘B’ Stainless steel self tapping screws. (4.2mm dia x 13mm long) (8s x 1/2” long) TYPE ‘C’ Stainless steel self tapping screws. (4.2mm dia x 9.5mm long) (8s x 3/8” long) TYPE ‘D’ Stainless Steel self tapping screws. (4.2mm dia x 16mm long) (8s x 5/8” long) TYPE ‘E’ Stainless steel screw. (5.5mm dia x 50mm long) (12s x 2” long) complete with scaler washer and plastic plug. TYPE ‘G’ Stainless steel cheese head screw. M5 x 12mm long complete with nut. TYPE ‘J’ Stainless steel hexagon head bolt M6 x 16mm long complete with nut. TYPE ‘K’ Stainless steel hexagon head bolt M6 x 25mm long complete with nut. TYPE ‘L’ Stainless steel hexagon head bolt M6 x 20mm long complete with nut.
page 2
1.
The two side baserail assemblies, the plain end assembly and the door end assembly should be placed on the ground to ensure that the greenhouse is orientated with the door at the correct end. (Fig 2). PLAIN END ASSEMBLY
DOOR END ASSEMBLY
Fig 2. 2.
Lay them together to form a perfect rectangle. This can be checked by measuring the diagonals, they must be of identical dimensions. (Fig 2).
SIDE BASERAIL
Fig 3. Baserail drilling. Cill position. 3.
CILL PLATE
Take the baserail assembly sections, place them centrally overlapping the brickwork equally at each end. The correct distance apart for the baserail assemblies, is 2381mm. Remove the cill once the positioning has been established (Fig 3). Select a point approximately in the centre between each baserail bracket, marking out this spot for drilling. The holes are not pre drilled thus allowing the position to be drilled precisely into a solid foundation point, and not into a joint in the brickwork. Drill as marked (for example a 4 pane house will have 4 fixings per side) using an 8mm H.S.S drill. Drill into the foundation with an 8mm masonry drill to a depth of 50mm to take the plug and screw provided (Fig 4). Insert the plug washer and screw, tightening only sufficiently to hold the rails into position at this stage. Once the structure is complete, remember to tighten all fixing screws securely.
Fig 4. Detail of new 8 house baserail and fixing BASERAIL ASSEMBLY
CONCRETE OR SOLID BRICK BASE
page 3
SEALER WASHER
PLUG
4.
Now the half span assemblies that create the separate pane lengths should be assembled. The prefabricated half spans are joined together at the apex with a fish plate on each side (Fig 5). Place the four brackets with the short edge to each fish plate (two on each side) and fasten with ‘L’ type bolts and nuts as shown. ‘A’ TYPE NUTS
ANGLE BRACKET
JOINING PLATE
Fig 5. Half spans/plate screws 5.
‘L’ TYPE BOLTS AND NUTS
The completed spans are now fixed between the pair of angle brackets previously factory fitted to the baserail assemblies. These are secured using ‘J’ type bolts and nuts (Fig 6). The plain and door aend assemblies to be fixed at a later stage (Fig 14). SPAN
COMPLETE SPANS
BASERAIL ASSEMBLY
ANGLE BRACKETS
‘J’ TYPE BOLTS AND NUTS
Fig 6. Baserail and span details 6.
The four types of cross members are now fitted to the completed spans (Fig 7.)
Fig 7.
page 4
6a.
The lowest single pane cross member at the top of the vertical span section are all of type ‘C’ (Fig 8). These members are bolted onto the brackets already attached to the spans using ‘A’ type bolts and nuts. TYPE ‘C’ SINGLE PANE CROSS MEMBER
‘A’ TYPE BOLTS AND NUTS
Fig 8. 6b.
The second level of members at the top of the first facet are of two types. Where there is no vent then type ‘C’ are used as described above. Where a vent is located the cross member (type ‘D’) has a flat plate for the window opening mechanism. These are fixed in using ‘A’ type bolts and nuts (Fig 9). TYPE ‘D’ UNDERVENT CROSS MEMBER
Fig 9. 6c.
TYPE ‘C’ SINGLE PANE CROSS MEMBER
TYPE ‘E’ OVERVENT CROSS MEMBER
Fig 10.
At the third level there are two types of members. Type ‘C’ are once again used where there is no vent to be positioned and fixed as before. Where a vent is to be positioned there is a cross member of identical form to the type ‘C’ cross member with the exception that it has two short cuts, each 30mm from either end as type ‘B’ (Fig 10). This is fixed as before by placing on top of the brackets and fastening together using ‘A’ type bolts and nuts. NOTE:
The opening panes can only be located at intermediate panes i.e.: not next to an end or partition. TYPE ‘A’ RIDGE CROSS MEMBER
TYPE ‘A’ RIDGE CROSS MEMBER
‘A’ TYPE
6d.
Fig 11. BOLTS AND NUTS The final cross members are located close to the apex on either side of the greenhouse. These are of type ‘A’ members. These are fixed as per the other members (Fig 11) using ‘A’ type bolts and nuts. page 5
For guidance, the chart gives standard vent numbers and placements SIZE
No. OF VENTS
POSITION
4 PANE 5 PANE 6 PANE 7 PANE 8 PANE
2. 4. 4. 5. 6.
2 OR 3 ON BOTH SIDES. 2 TO 4 ON BOTH SIDES. 2 TO 5 ON BOTH SIDES. 2 TO 6 ON BOTH SIDES. 2 TO 7 ON BOTH SIDES.
A typical 5 pane layout would be :-
7.
The plain and door end assemblies are now secured to the baserail assembly, (Fig 12) using the single bracket and ‘A’ type bolts and nuts.
PLAIN END ASSEMBLY D/END P/END & PARTITION HORIZONTAL TO BE FITTED LOOSELY USING M6 X 12 NUTS & BOLTS. THEN ONCE GLASS IN THESE POSITION HAS BEEN FITTED BOLTS MAY THEN BE TIGHTENED
SINGLE BRACKET
Fig 12.
page 6
8.
When fixed to the baserail assembly, secure all the cross members to retain the end assemblies in position using ‘A’ type bolts and nuts. The end assemblies can now be fixed into place in the same way as the baserail assemblies (Fig 13), locating two fixings in each end assembly. The cill is now fitted to the plain end only. This is located between the side baserail assemblies, pushed up hard against the end bottom rail before securing, using the 50mm plugs and screws (type ‘E’) WASHER
CILL
SCREW
SECTION VIEW
Fig 13.
CILL
9.
The ridge cover is now slid into position locating under the retaining lip of the type ‘A’ ridge cross member. On longer structures the ridge will be in two sections. Using sealant (not supplied) stick the joining piece over the joint. See Fig 14. RIDGE COVER PLATE
RIDGE COVER
JOINING PIECE IF REQUIRED
TYPE ‘A’ RIDGE CROSS MEMBER
‘A’ TYP CROSS B SPAN POSITIONING OF RIDGE COVER
SLIDE GLASS IN AND BOLT END PIECE ON
10.
Fig 14.
SLIDE GLASS IN
Fig 15.
The first items to be glazed are the opening vent sections. The glass for these lights are 676mm x 697mm. Remove the member from the frame and slide the fully edged glass into the slot, then when in place, bolt the top member back into position on the frame. page 7
11.
Now glaze the faceted section of the house starting nearest the ridge and from one end (shall we say the door end). Each of the faceted panes are 730mm x 160mm. Each P.V.C. edged pane (with the 730mm edge horizontal) is pushed up into the glazing slot in the type ‘A’ ridge cross member (Fig 16) at the angle shown, and then lowered into the slot of the cross member beneath (be it type ‘B’ or ‘C’). GLASS
P.V.C. EDGING
Glass positioning. 12.
PUSH PANE UP AS SHOWN (DOTTED SECTION), AND ALLOW TO SLIDE DOWN INTO BOTTOM SLOT.
Fig 16.
The cappings (408mm) are then fitted to the first two panes and so on as you work along the house. The capping securing the glass to the ends is called half capping (Fig 17) whilst the capping to the spans is full capping. The capping is secured onto the body by ‘B’ type stainless steel self tapping screws. Capping details and sections. Both sides are completed in the same manner. 8s x 1/2” LONG OR 4.2Ø x 13mm LONG
HALF CAPPING GLASS
FULL CAPPING GLASS
Fig 17. END SPAN
ST./STL. SCREW FULL CAPPING HALF CAPPING GLASS GLASS
BODY SPAN
page 8
13.
The lower facet is now glazed in the same way, with the glass size 711 x 730, but this time using the 727mm long capping. Obviously with the exception of the space for the vent panes.
14.
The next lower facet is now to be glazed and capped as previously described, once again with the glass size 711 x 730 and capping length 727mm.
15.
Finally the last of the body panels to be glazed is the vertical face. This has glass panes 730mm x 1067mm. The capping, both full and half is 1064mm long. The P.V.C. edged panes are inserted as before, they are then secured with the capping and the ‘B’ type stainless steel screws.
16.
Having glazed the body, we now come to the end assemblies. Firstly identify the glass, ready edged with P.V.C. as previously described.
TOP
Fig 18. Plain end glass chart.
Fig 19.
The glass sections are located as before into the top glazing slot and then seated in the lower glazing groove.
17.
The capping of the plain end assembly uses two types of capping (Fig 20). The perimeter has half capping (8 pieces) whilst the center has two pieces of full capping 2130mm long. These are secured as before.
page 9
369mm LONG HALF CAPPING
Fig 20.
688mm LONG HALF CAPPING
688mm LONG HALF CAPPING
1122mm LONG HALF CAPPING
2130mm LONG FULL CAPPING
369mm LONG HALF CAPPING 688mm LONG HALF CAPPING
1122mm LONG HALF CAPPING
268mm LONG FULL CAPPING
688mm LONG HALF CAPPING
1122mm LONG HALF CAPPING
1122mm LONG HALF CAPPING
18.
Fig 21. 1862mm LONG D/SEAL CAPPING
The door end assembly glazed as shown in Fig 21. The three bolts (2, ‘A’ type and 1, ‘K’ type and the spacer in the right hand bolt) should fit the runner. (Fig 22). The capping used to fit the glass in position is: a. Half capping around the perimeter 8 pieces. b. Full capping (2130mm long) to the left of the door aperture and a short piece (268mm long), located above the door aperture to the right hand side. c. A single piece of draught seal capping (1862mm long) located to the right hand side of the door aperture. All this capping is fixed with ‘B’ type stainless steel self tapping screws.
page 10
19.
To glaze and cap the door, we suggest that you lay it flat on the floor or bench to ensure that it is square. Insert the glass as before. (The top and bottom panes are 324mm x 730mm, and the middle panes are 730mm x 730mm). The left hand vertical half capping has a handle fitted, whilst the right hand is plain. Fix with ‘B’ type stainless steel self tapping screws. DOOREND ASSEMBLY DOOR TOP RUNNER GLASS
‘K’ TYPE ‘A’ TYPE
DOOR ASSEMBLY FIX DOOR RUNNER TO THE FRONT OF THE DOOR ADAPTER
‘A’ TYPE SPACER ‘K’ TYPE BOLT
ALUMINIUM PANEL NUT
Door runner assembly. Fig 22.
D.R.E. DOOR RUNNER
20.
To fit the door, place the upper door runner into position lining up the three holes, and placing the two bolts into position above the door aperture, but not tightening.
GLASS HOUSE DOOR END ASSEMBLY
DOOR BOTTOM
DOOR SLIDE
Fig 23.
BRICK FOUNDATION
Locate the lower channel in the base of the door over the front edge of the rail at the base of the door end assembly. The door is then raised to the vertical, allowing the door baserail to click under the rebate cut into the draught seal capping. Now lift the door to allow the runner wheels to clip over the upper runner rail. DOOR TOP RUNNER
IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO LEVER UP THIS SECTION TO ALLOW THE DOOR RUNNER WHEELS TO BE LOCATED END SPAN ASSEMBLY
DOOR
End view of runner assembly with wheels.
Fig 24.
The reason for not securing the rail into position will now be evident since some juggling of the door and rail will be required to locate everything correctly. Now try the door. If running smoothly, and correctly located both at the base and the top, you may now bolt the door top runner assembly into place. The spacer should be placed behind the runner next to the end frame (D.R.E) prior to bolting up. page 11
21.
The complete vent can now be fitted into the greenhouse frame by hooking the vent top edge lip into the vent top cross member (type ‘B’) already fitted to the house. The vent is offered into the top cross member with the vent in its widest possible open position. (Fig 25). TYPE ‘B’ CROSS MEMBER
VENT
Vent being positioned.
Fig 25.
When finally being fixed into place the vent frame will use two pieces of grey P.V.C. strip, one down either side, to facilitate capping which is part of the final glazing process. When the position of the vent strip is ascertained, you may find easier to tap it into its final position with a hammer, if it is stiff. (Fig 26). In this position the full capping now secures not only the glass on one side but also the P.V.C. strip on the other side. VENT
FULL CAPPING
P.V.C. STRIP
GLASS BODY SPAN
Fig 26. Note:- The casement stay is fitted to the lower section of the vent with a single ‘A’ type bolt and nut at the completion of the erection.
22.
With the ridge cover now an equal distance from either end, position the ridge end cap and mark through the holes. Drill the ridge cover with a Ø3.5 bit and secure with two type ‘B’ screws. RIDGE CAP RIDGE COVER
Fig 27. GLASS HOUSE END ASSEMBLY
page 12
GUTTER AND DOWNPIPE 23.
On structures longer than 7 panes in length, the gutter will be in two parts, with a welded slip joint. Slide the two halves together and drill a Ø7mm hole through the centre. Slide the two halves apart and apply a liberal amount of sealant (not supplied) to the slip joint. Slide the two halves back together and secure with a type ‘A’ screw and nut. Centralize the gutters so that the same amount protrudes at each end. See Fig.28. Remove the capping screws from just below the eaves at the top of the span verticals.
FLAT CLIP
CIRCULAR CLIP
Fig 28. Place the long gutter section in position as shown in Fig 29 ensuring contact up against the cross member at eaves (‘C’). GUTTER U
TYPE ‘C’ CROSS MEMBER
GUTTER
DOWNPIPE SPAN VERTICAL CAPPING
‘D’ TYPE SELF TAPPING SCREWS
FLAT CLIP
DOWNPIPE
V
‘D’ TYPE SELF TAPPING SCREWS
Fig 30.
CIRCULAR CLIP
Fig 29. Each of the flat clips to be placed underneath the gutter, holding it firmly with ‘D’ type screws, using the holes in the span vertical capping. Take the plastic spigot ‘U’ and collar ‘V’ and un-couple by screwing anti-clockwise. Position the spigot in the top of the gutter outlet hole and slide the collar over the top of the downpipe. Push the downpipe up onto the spigot and slide the collar upwards as far as it will go. Screw the collar clockwise until the downpipe is secured. Slide the downpipe bracket until it aligns with a capping hole. Using a self tapping screw ‘D’ fix the bracket into position through the capping. See Fig 30. The glasshouse main structure is now completed. page 13
STAGING – MK1 TYPE
END BRACKET ONE LEFT HAND ONE RIGHT HAND BOLTED TO ENDS USING ‘B’ BOLTS
Fig 31.
BRACKET SCREWED TO ALL HALF SPANS 4.2mm SCREWS (SELF TAPPING) 9.5mm LONG (TYPE ‘H’)
END BRACKETS
769mm FROM PLINTH TO TOP OF BRACKET
Identify the left and right end brackets and place against inside the gable frame using the dimension shown in Fig. 31. Mark through the two holes, spot and drill using a 6.5mm bit. Note: be careful to drill only the inner face of the gable frame. Secure with type ‘b’ screws with the nut behind. Attach the intermediate brackets to the spans with type ‘h’ self tapping screws, using the dimensions shown in Fig. 32. Note: the bracket positions given place the legs at the plinth top level. If the floor is lower, then the brackets should be lowered by the same amount.
Fig 32.
The corner sections of the staging framework may be supplied in straight lengths with two notches some distance from either end, simply and gently bend these by hand to form a 90˚ angle as shown in Fig 33. INTERMEDIATE SECTION
CROSS MEMBERS CORNER SECTION
STAGING LEGS
Make up the complete box sections with the intermediate straight sections, the cross members and the staging legs, bolting all these together with ‘b’ type bolts and nuts. CROSS MEMBER INTERMEDIATE SECTION CORNER SECTION
CORNER SECTION
Fig 33.
STAGING LEGS
CROSS MEMBER
The entire assembly can now be placed in position, the back edge sitting on the brackets and the front standing on its legs. Place the corrugated trays in position with trays overlapping each other at the ends. NOTE: To help retain moisture and to provide a flat surface, we suggest that pea gravel be spread over the surface of the boards to a depth of at least 1”. page 14
SHELVING ERECTION INSTRUCTIONS When erecting the shelving, support brackets should be screwed to the spans at the dimensions shown in the sketch, using ‘C’ type self tapping screws. Hook the support into the pair of brackets consistently on either the left ot the right hand side of the brackets. There are two types of shelving laths, one with a plain end and one with a slot at both ends. GLASSHOUSE END SPAN
SUPPORT BRACKET
HORIZONTAL SUPPORT BRACKET ‘C’ TYPE SELF TAPPING SCREWS
THIS END TO REST ON THE HORIZONTAL ANGLE SUPPORT
m
0m
85m
m
12
BRACKET
SHELVING LATHS
SHELVING SUPPORT SLING
Fig 34.
SHELVING LATHS
THIS END TO SLOT INTO NEXT SUPPORT
Position and fix the horizontal support bracket to the gable vertical pre drilled hole using type ‘A’ bolt. Clamp the bracket at the other end and drill through with a 06.5mm bit. Fix using type ‘A’ bolt and repeat at the other gable. Starting from the gable end, take the end laths and place four sections with the unslotted ends resting on the gable horizontal glazing member. Place the slotted ends on the shelvng sling. Take four middle laths and position alternately between the end laths on the support sling. Continue along the glasshouse until the final four end laths are fitted. Note; take great care not to disturb the slings until the final laths are positioned. See Fig. 34. Note: If the shelving does not run the full length between the ends or end and partition (such as a short run or the position in front of a partition), drill and bolt one end lath using the 35mm long screw provided. LOUVRE There are two sizes of louvre frames, one of these can replace any bottom pane of glass, the other can be placed in the centre of the plain end, by simply replacing glass pane ‘D’. When being used in the side replacing pane (c) the louvre will go in between the panes, resting in the slot in the baserail. A splitter section (Fig 35) is then placed on top of the louvre and pressed down firmly. Fig 35. SPLITTER SECTION END SPLITTER 736mm LONG SIDE SPLITTER 714mm LONG
GLASS PANE OVER LOUVRE BODY 730 x 435 END 85 x 752
LOUVRE
The small piece of glass (k) or (m) is pushed up into the cross brace, then lowered into the groove above the louvre to make up the complete pane. A piece of capping can then be fastened down either side, holding both the glass and louvre in position (Fig 36.) page 15
BLINDS Instructions for fixing sprung roller blinds: It is important to note that the blinds have a flat spindle at one end which should always be offered up to the ridge with the flat spindle on the left (end blinds are 27mm shorter than the middle ones). Brackets to hold blinds and rollers to be positioned and fixed into the span slot with self tapping screws at the dimension shown using ‘C’ type screws. Ends Only: Fix the flat bracket to the gable end member by drilling two holes using a bracket as a template. Fasten with self tapping screws. Brackets to be in line along glasshouse. FLAT BRACKET ROUND HOLE A
FLAT BRACKET SLOTTED B
BENT BRACKET ROUND HOLE C
FOUR BRACKETS BENT BRACKET SLOTTED D
CORD CLEAT MIDDLE SPAN
m
50mm
57
m
END SPAN
SPAN SLOT
INNER BLIND 736mm LONG
END BLIND 709mm
50mm
26
5m
m
SELF TAPPING SCREW
CORD CLEAT WHEEL ASSEMBLY
VIEW LOOKING TOWARDS RIDGE (OUTSIDE TO IN)
Fix the cord wheel assembly centrally using ‘A’ type screws, to inside edge of the type ‘C’ cross member - alternatively, if staging is present, fix the lower edge of the staging allowing cord to pass underneath as shown, to be held at the front by the cleat. page 16
AUTOVENT Fitting an autovent: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Remove existing casement stay from vent Fix Bayliss autovent to bracket with the screw supplied. (‘A’ and ‘G’ type). Using the existing hole in the cross member, fix the bracket with a nut and bolt. Using the holes in the Bayliss as a template, drill two holes with a No. 7 drill. Fix with screws and nuts as shown. Refer to Bayliss instructions for setting. (if used with shelving autovents can be connected in reverse).
Appendix AUTOVENT Changes made to Autovent adverse weather conditions ie.: strong winds or storms 1)
Remove thumb screw from the Autovent
2)
Place string around the Autovent arms and tie shut
This will enable the Autovent to stay in the closed position until the weather conditions change where the Autovent can be restored to its normal working position
Thumb Screw Autovent Arms
page 17
Swing Door For ‘glass-to-ground’ type structures, take the door assembly and position into the door gable aperture. Note: inward opening doors fit from the inside, but outward opening doors fit from the outside. With one person holding the outer frame, open the door and with a 7mm bit, drill straight through the door outer frame and the structure frame in the eight approximate positions shown in Fig.1. Note: avoid hinge and lock positions. Secure the frame with M6x30 screws – pushed in from the door side. Tip: drill and bolt the top holes first to relieve the assistant.
Fig. 1 When fitting the door to a ‘planthouse’ (version with a dwarf wall), the door is fitted as above, but with 12s x 100mm long screws in the lower four positions. Drill the holes with a 7mm bit and mark the four positions through onto the wall. Remove the door frame and open up the holes in the gable verticals so that they will clear the plastic rawl plugs. Drill the walls with an 8mm masonry bit and insert the rawl plugs. Replace the door and secure with the 12s x 100mm long screws. See Fig.2.
Fig. 2
page 18
With the adjacent gable panes in position, take a door capping spacer and position it against the non-glazed side of a gable door-vertical. Secure the vertical full capping using No.8x12 self tapping screws. Repeat at the other side. Take the 737mm long half capping and with the leg on the non-glazed side, screw to the horizontal above the door (for outward opening doors this will be full capping). See Fig.3.
Fig. 3
Place the 1033x545 pane in the top of the door and the 593x545 kick panel in the bottom of the door. With the assistant supporting them, position the door vertical half capping and secure with No.8x9.5 self tapping screws. Position the upper and lower half capping, then the horizontal full capping and secure with No.8x9.5 screws. See Fig.4.
Fig. 4
page 19
Mk2 DOMESTIC STAGING Section 1. Attached staging for the sides of glass-to-ground structures Identify the left and right end brackets and place against inside of the gable frame using the dimension shown in Fig.1. Mark through the two holes, spot and drill using a 6.5mm bit. Note; be careful to drill only the inner face of the gable frame. Secure with M6x12 button head screws with the nut behind.
Fig. 1
Tip: when drilling, use a small pilot drill first and get someone to hold a scrap sheet of metal or plastic behind to hole to prevent damage when the drill runs through. Take the mid brackets and using the fixing position shown in Fig.1, secure to the screw slots on the inside of the spans using 9.5mm long self tapping screws. Note: if the floor of the greenhouse is set lower than the plinth top, the dimensions to the top of the end and mid brackets must be increased by the difference.
page 20
Take two front/rear end frames (one of each hand) and an end frame. Place the corners together and push a corner piece into the recess on the outside of the frame so that the holes align. Position M6 nuts into the recess behind the holes and secure with M6x12 button head screws. Repeat for the other end frame.
Fig. 2
Take a front/rear mid frame and position end-to-end with the assembled end frame. Slide a butt strap into the recess on the outside of the frame so that the holes align and secure with M6x12 button head screws. On the other side use a mid leg (which is a T-section) to join the mid frame, again using M6x12 button head screws. Continue along until all the sections are joined and the mid legs are in place. See Fig.2. Note for staging with lath top tray; on structures with a length of six panes or more, the three holes in the front/rear mid frames must be central to the entire run. Use the chart below in order to achieve this. 6 PANE – END FRAME – 743mm MID FRAME – 1486mm MID FRAME – 743mm MID FRAME – END FRAME 7 PANE – END FRAME – 743mm MID FRAME – 2229mm MID FRAME – 743mm MID FRAME – END FRAME 8 PANE – END FRAME – 1486mm MID FRAME – 1486mm MID FRAME – 1486mm MID FRAME – END FRAME 9 PANE – END FRAME – 1486mm MID FRAME – 2229mm MID FRAME – 1486mm MID FRAME – END FRAME 10 PANE – END FRAME – 2229mm MID FRAME – 1486mm MID FRAME – 2229mm MID FRAME – END FRAME
Lift the staging assembly (with help from others if needed) onto the end and mid brackets which were fitted earlier. Using a spirit level and string, ensure that the staging is even and level by making adjustments to the ground under the legs if necessary. See Fig.3. For the fitting of the top tray, please refer to section 3. Fig. 3
page 21
Section 2. Stand alone staging for gables and planthouse (walled) structures.
Take two front/rear end frames (one of each hand) and an end frame. Place the corners together and push a corner leg (angle section) into the recess on the outside of the frame so that the holes align. Position M6 nuts into the recess behind the holes and secure with M6x12 button head screws. Repeat for the other end frame.
Fig. 4
Take a front/rear mid frame and position end-to-end with the assembled end frame. Slide a mid leg (Tsection) into the recess on the outside of the frame so that the holes align and secure with M6x12 button head screws. Repeat on the other side and continue along until all the sections are joined and the mid legs are in place. See Fig.4. Position a shelf support against the holes in the corner legs, ensuring that the side with lath holes is lowermost. Secure with M6x12 button head screws. Repeat at the other end. Position the remaining shelf supports against the holes in the mid legs and, ensuring that the sides with the lath holes are uppermost, secure with M6x12 button head screws. See Fig.5.
Fig. 5
page 22
Take a shelving lath and slide M6x12 hexagon head screws into the screw slot – one for each shelf support. Slide the screws along so that they align with the holes in the support angles. Lower the lath onto the support angles and locate the screws through the shelving support holes. Secure from underneath with an M6 nut and continue along until all the laths are in place. See Fig.6 and Fig.7.
Fig. 7
Fig. 6
Note: for staging lengths of up to 5 panes, the shelving lath will be supplied in a single length, but for structures of six panes or more, the shelf lath will be supplied in two or more lengths. For structures of six panes length or more, establish where the laths join using the chart below. At each of these positions fit a second shelf support on the opposite side of the mid leg. If placed in the correct order, the shelf laths will join at the midpoint between the two back to back supports.
For the fitting of the top tray, please refer to section 3.
page 23
Section 3. Top tray. Lath Type The front/rear mid frame of the top tray should have three holes at the central position of the staging. To enable the alignment of the last lath with the slot near the end of the front/rear end frame, the middle lath must be positioned over either the centre hole or the off-centre holes, dependent upon the staging length. See the chart below: POSITION OF MID LATH LENGTH
PLANTHOUSE (WALLED) STRUCTURE
GLASS-TO-GROUND STRUCTURE
3 PANE 4 PANE 5 PANE 6 PANE 7 PANE 8 PANE 9 PANE 10 PANE
OFF-CENTRE HOLE CETNRE HOLE CETNRE HOLE OFF-CENTRE HOLE CETNRE HOLE CENTRE HOLE OFF-CENTRE HOLE OFF-CENTRE HOLE
CENTRE HOLE OFF-CENTRE HOLE OFF-CENTRE HOLE CENTRE HOLE OFF-CENTRE HOLE OFF-CENTRE HOLE CENTRE HOLE CENTRE HOLE
Take a middle/end lath (these have a screw slot underneath as opposed the intermediate laths which do not). Slide an M6x12 hexagon head screw a little way in each end and drop the lath into the frame with the screws locating into the central holes. Secure the lath from underneath with M6 nuts. See Fig.8.
Take two plastic spacing blocks and push them onto the inside of the front/rear frame until they click into place (ensure they are pushed tightly against the lath). Drop in an intermediate lath (with no screw slot) and push tightly against the spacing blocks. Continue along either side of the centre lath until the last position is reached. Take two middle/end laths and slide an M6x12 hexagon head screw a little way in each end. Drop into the staging frame, locating the screws in the end position slots. Slide the laths tightly against the spacing blocks and secure from underneath with M6 nuts. See Fig.9.
Fig. 9
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Fig.8
Flat or Corrugated Sheet type For flat and corrugated sheet options cross members will be necessary for additional support. For flat sheet trays the sheets must adjoin on the centre of the cross member. Position sheets in the trays and align the cross members under the joints. Mark through the brackets at either end. Remove the sheets and cross members and drill through the front/rear frames using a 7mm bit. Re-position the cross members and secure with M6x16 button head screws. For corrugated sheets, position the cross members at approximately equal distances apart. See Fig. 10. Note: lengths up to 4 pane have 1 cross member, lengths up to 7 pane have 2 cross members and lengths up to 10 panes have 5 cross members.
Fig. 10 Drop the flat sheet or corrugated sheets into position. The corrugated sheets are supplied over-length and should be overlapped until the required size is obtained. See Fig. 11 and Fig. 12.
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
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Section 4. Potting Shoe For staging with a lath type top tray, place the shoe in the desired location on top of the laths and mark through the four holes in the base. Remove the shoe and drill the four positions with a Ă˜3.5mm bit. Replace the shoe and secure with No.8x9.5 self tapping countersunk screws. For staging with a flat sheet top tray, place the shoe on top of the flat sheet. Securing with the self tapping screws is optional. For staging with a corrugated sheet type top tray, place the shoe at the desired end of the staging and lap the corrugations as close to the shoe as possible. Section 4. Partitions Stand-alone planthouse (walled structure) staging remains unaffected, but attached staging on a glass-toground structure needs to be shorter at the front glazed side of the partition. This is achieved by use of a shorter 593mm front/rear end frame. Ensure that these are used at the partition end of the staging. Because the short section has no radial/span to which it can be attached, an extra leg is supplied for use at the rear corner. Section 5. Abutting Structures Glass-to-ground attached staging remains unaffected, but planthouse (walled structure) staging is increased in length to fill the gap created by the lack of a wall at the abutting end. This is achieved by use of a longer 743mm front/rear end frame. Ensure that these are used at the abutting end. In order that the lengths of the shelving laths remain consistent, the end tray at the abutting uses corner pieces and mid legs set in from the end (as outlined in section 1). Section 6. Gable Staging Staging across the gable is always of the free-standing type, with a lower parcel shelf. The staging will fit on one of three ways; across a full gable, next to one side of staging to create an L shape, and between two sides of staging. The assembly method is the same as that shown in section 2, with the only difference being that the front/rear frame is in one piece.
page 26
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page 27
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Fig. 2
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Hartley Botanic provides the highest quality greenhouses and glasshouses. Hartley greenhouses and glasshouses are endorsement by the Royal Botanic Gardens Kew. For more information or contact details please visit our website http://www.hartley-botanic.co.uk/