Vegans at the BBQ

Fire up the grill for plant-based eating

What do vegans eat at a barbecue?” If this sounds like the setup to a bad joke, food writer and avowed vegan Katy Beskow has a serious answer. Actually, 70 answers. In her new book “Vegan BBQ,” she lays out dozens of plant-based meals for grilling (plus sides, salads and desserts).

A couple grilling tips from Beskow to get you started: Charcoal is always her choice, for the “cooked-in” flavor and lower purchase cost, although nailing the temperature may require some patience. For that, she recommends gauging the heat of your grill by eyeing the embers. If they’re glowing white, with bright red cores, that’s a high heat. If they’re ashy white with moderate glow, that means medium. Yellow-brown embers with no glow indicate low heat. (You can also hold your palm two inches above the grill—just a couple seconds for high heat, three to four seconds for medium heat, and five to six seconds for low heat—to gauge the heat.)

Whether you’re vegan, vegetarian or simply craving fresh new ideas, says Beskow in the intro to the book, there are so many delicious possibilities when barbecuing plant-based foods. They transform when cooked on the grill, which adds charred, smoky flavor and crisp yet tender textures. Here are two recipes from her book to get you going, both of them good for an intimate summer gathering.

—ERIK TORMOEN

Teriyaki Tofu with Charred Greens

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Tofu is marinated in a sweet, salty and sticky sauce in this succulent dish, then served with charred greens. Teriyaki sauce is made for grilling, as it adds moisture as well as the perfect balance of sweet and very savory. Prepare the sauce in advance as it will thicken slightly as it cools, creating the perfect glaze for tender tofu.

½cup (scant) soy

Sauce

2tablespoons brown sugar

1tablespoon maple syrup

1tablespoon mirin

2garlic cloves, crushed

1(½-inch) piece of ginger, peeled and grated

Pinch of dried chili flakes

9ounce block pre-pressed extra-firm tofu, cut horizontally into 4 slices

12florets broccolini

16sugar snap peas

¼savoy cabbage, cut into 4 wedges

½tablespoon sunflower oil, for brushing

1teaspoon sesame seeds

1. Set the grill for medium heat. Put the soy sauce, brown sugar, maple syrup, mirin, garlic, ginger and chili flakes into a pan. Heat over a medium heat on the stovetop for 5 to 6 minutes until the mixture is bubbling, then remove from the heat and allow to cool and thicken for a few minutes.

2. Blot the slices of tofu with a paper towel or clean cloth to remove any excess moisture. Score the tofu lightly in crisscross pattern on one side (this will help the tofu to absorb the marinade). Place the tofu slices into a deep dish, then pour over the teriyaki marinade. Allow to stand for 1 hour, turning the tofu a couple of times.

3. Skewer the broccoli florets, sugar snap peas and cabbage wedges onto 4 metal skewers, with 3 pieces of broccoli, 4 sugar snap peas and a wedge of cabbage on each. Brush with a little sunflower oil.

4. Shake excess marinade off the tofu, then carefully place on the hot grill. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, turning when the cooked side appears firm.

5. Add the loaded skewers to the hot grill and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, turning frequently until tender and charred.

Pulled Mango Tacos with Beans, Radishes and Coriander

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Sweet, spiced mango becomes something special when grilled, which is why I make smoky pulled mango the star of the show in these family-friendly tacos. Personally, I love the contrast of the smooth mango in crunchy taco shells, but feel free to use soft corn wraps if you prefer. –katy beskow

1(14-ounce) can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed 3scallions, finely chopped 2radishes, finely diced 1(¼-inch) piece of cucumber, finely diced Handful of fresh cilantro leaves, chopped ½lime, juiced

Generous pinch of smoked sea salt, to taste

For the Pulled Mango

2tablespoons oil

1teaspoon smoked paprika

Pinch of mild chili powder pinch of sea salt

2mangoes, peeled and sliced lengthways into 4 “cheeks” per mango

2red bell peppers, deseeded and sliced into 8 thick strips

8crunchy corn taco shells

2tablespoons vegan mayonnaise

1. Set the grill for medium heat. In a bowl, stir together the kidney beans, scallions, radishes, cucumber, cilantro and lime juice. Season to taste with smoked sea salt. Allow to infuse while you light the barbecue.

2. In a bowl, whisk together the oil, smoked paprika, chili powder and sea salt. Lay out the mango and peppers on a plate and brush both sides with the oil mix.

3. Use tongs to place the mango and pepper slices onto the hot grill and cook for 5 to 6 minutes on each side until softened and sizzling and grill lines appear.

4. Lay out the taco shells and spoon in the bean mix. Add the pepper slices.

5. Place the mango onto a chopping board and use forks to gently pull the mango apart into finer shreds. Place into the taco shells and serve while still hot.

HOT TIP: These tacos are mildly spiced, making them perfect for younger eaters. If you prefer a little more heat, grill Padron peppers alongside the mango, or spoon over a few jalapeño pepper slices from the jar.

6. Remove the tofu slices from the grill and place on serving plates. Scatter each one with a few sesame seeds. Remove the skewers from the grill and carefully slide the vegetables onto the plates, placing the broccoli florets on top of the teriyaki tofu.

HOT TIP: Mirin is a sweet Japanese rice wine, which adds a little acidity to a dish, but less than vinegar. ■

Tropical Candy

Summer is ripe for working with sweet, tangy mangoes and papayas

BY JASON ROSS

Two of the world’s finest tropical fruits flood the produce aisles each summer. With colors ranging from golden yellow to deep red, and esh as sweet and tangy as candy, mangoes and papayas begin piling up for the season at the end of May and will run until September. This is the best time to try a ripe tropical treat. If you are not sure how to handle these fruits, here are some tips on selecting, peeling and cutting them, as well as a tropical tart recipe that features both delicious fruits.

Continued on page 8

Tropical Fruit Mango Papaya Tart

MAKES 1 (10-INCH) TART, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

1 (10-inch) tart shell

(see recipe at right)

1½ cups lime curd (see recipe at right)

2 medium mangoes peeled and sliced

¼-inch thick

(see cutting tips page 8)

1 small papaya peeled and sliced

¼-inch thick

(see cutting tips page 8)

2 tablespoons lime juice

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

1. Scoop the lime curd into the baked tart shell, and using the back of a serving spoon or pastry knife, smooth and spread the lime curd to fill the shell.

2. Drizzle the lime juice over the fruit. Arrange the fruit in a pinwheel pattern (or any pattern you like), alternating papaya and mango around the tart. Sprinkle the tart liberally with powdered sugar using a sieve, if you have one, or sprinkle with your fingers or a spoon. Slice and serve.

3. The tart can be stored in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 hours, unwrapped, before serving.

Lime Curd

MAKES 1½ CUPS, FOR 1 (10-INCH) TART SHELL

Tart and tangy, this curd makes the perfect foil to the sweet tropical fruit.

4 egg yolks

7 whole eggs

1¾ cups sugar

1¾ cups lime juice (from about 12 limes)

1 stick unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

1 tablespoon lime zest

1. In a medium size non-reactive pot, such as stainless steel or enamel cast iron, whisk together the egg yolks, whole eggs, sugar and lime juice. (You could make this recipe in a double boiler, using a medium sized mixing bowl over a pot of simmering water, but it will take longer to cook.)

2. Cook the curd over low heat stirring constantly for about 15 to 20 minutes, until the curd is thick like pudding. It will easily coat the back of a spoon and hold its shape if dolloped onto a plate.

3. As soon as the curd reaches the thick consistency, turn off the heat and stir in the cubed butter. The butter will help cool down the curd and prevent the eggs from over cooking and “scrambling.” Stir in lime zest.

4. Store wrapped with plastic touching the surface of the curd to prevent a skin from forming, and chill fully before use, about 1 hour. This can be refrigerated up to 5 days.

(The assembled tart is best eaten the same day, but could be refrigerated for 2 to 3 days.)

Sweet Tart Dough

MAKES 1 (10-INCH) TART SHELL, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Here is a trusty tart dough using the classic method: mix, wrap and rest, roll, chill, bake with weights, cool and use with your favorite filling.

1½ sticks unsalted butter, cut into cubes and room temperature soft

½ cup sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1⁄8 teaspoon vanilla

2 medium eggs, beaten

1½ cups loosely scooped all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling out the dough pie weights or dry beans

1. Using a stand mixer or hand mixer, beat together the butter, sugar, salt and vanilla for about 3 minutes on medium speed until fully creamed, smooth and pale in color.

2. On low speed, add 1 egg and stir until incorporated. Scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula, then add the second egg and stir until incorporated on low speed.

3. Use a rubber spatula to start, and then your hands to mix in the flour.

4. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and press into a 1- to 2-inch thick disc. Chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour or until cold and firm. (The dough can keep refrigerated for a couple days before use.)

5. Remove the dough and allow to warm slightly for about 10 minutes. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a circle about 12 inches in diameter and ¼-inch thick. Lift the rolled dough, and gently push it into a 10-inch tart pan, making sure the dough is snug against the corners.

6. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes and heat the oven to 350°F.

7. After the raw tart shell has chilled, use a small knife to trim any excess dough, leaving the dough a little taller than the tart pan. This will allow for some shrinkage during cooking.

8. Line the dough with parchment paper or aluminum foil and pour in pie weights or dry beans. Place on a sheet pan and “blind” bake in the oven for 20 minutes, rotating after 10, until the edges are browned.

9. Remove the weights and the paper or foil liner, and continue baking another 20 to 30 minutes until the tart is fully browned.

10. Cool the shell on a wire rack. The fully cooled shell can be wrapped and stored at room temperature for 1 day, or wrapped and stored in the freezer for 1 to 2 months.

Robin Asbell spreads the word about how delicious whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors. She is the author of “Plant-Based Meats,” “Great Bowls of Food,” “Big Vegan,” “GlutenFree Pasta” and more.

Prepping Mango and Papaya

Selecting

Both mangoes and papayas ripen well after they are picked. Look for fruit that yields to gentle pressure. Avoid brown or black spots, which could mean bruising. Most importantly, ripe fruit will have a pleasant perfume. If the fuit looks and feels nice, but still firm or hard, store at room temperature until soft. This will typically take a couple days. Ripe fruit can be stored in the refrigerator until ready to eat.

Peeling and Serving Mango

1. Trim off the mango top and bottom flat about ¼ inch. A mango is a bit unwieldy, and its smooth skin can make it difficult for a peeler or knife to make initial cuts. Trimming off the mango’s ends will help with this issue. Plus, after you trim the ends, you will get a peek at the shape of the pit, making it easier to cut later.

2. Use a peeler or knife to remove the skin. If the mango is very ripe, it might be challenging with a peeler, so stand the mango on its trimmed bottom side, and use a chef knife to carefully remove the skin. Slide the knife edge between the skin and the flesh of the mango in long smooth strokes from top to bottom, working your way around the mango until it is fully peeled. Discard the peels.

3. To cut, stand the mango on its trimmed bottom side. Use the information gained from trimming the bottom

NUTRITION (PER SERVING)

TROPICAL FRUIT MANGO PAPAYA TART and top of the mango to show where the pit is, and make two cuts down on either side of the pit—try to keep the knife as close to the pit as possible. You will be left with two nice slices of mango. Discard the pit. (Or, if your house is anything like mine, give the pit to one of the impatient children waiting for the fruit, and let them messily nibble on any bits of fruit still clinging to the pit.) Then, slice the mango slices and use in the Tropical Fruit Mango Papaya Tart. Also enjoy cut into bite sized cubes and mix in with your favorite fruit salad.

Peeling and Serving Papaya

1. Peeling: Like the mango, trim a thin piece of the papaya top and bottom to give your peeler or knife better grip. Then peel the papaya from top to bottom all the way around and discard the peel.

2. Cutting: Slice the papaya in half lengthwise, revealing an empty cavity, similar to a melon, filled with black seeds. Use a spoon to scrape out the seeds and discard. Lay the papaya halves on a cutting board, flat side down, and slice ¼ inch slices for use in the tart, or cut in cubes and add to fruit salad. I like a squeeze of lime with papaya, as the flavor is strong and the acid cuts through, giving the fruit a lively balance. ■

CALORIES: 710, FAT: 36G (SAT: 20G), CHOLESTEROL: 365 MG, SODIUM: 230 MG, CARB: 91G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 68G, PROTEIN: 12G

Terry Brennan is a photographer based in Minneapolis, Minnesota, whose clients include Target, General Mills, Land O’Lakes and Hormel. “Working with Real Food is a highlight—I love working with the creative team and, of course, sampling the wonderful recipes.”

Pat Crocker is a professional home economist and culinary herbalist with a passion for healthy food. Her knowledge and love of herbs has been honed over more than four decades of growing, studying, photographing, experimenting with and writing about what she calls “the helping plants.” In fact, Crocker marries the medicinal benefits of herbs in every original recipe she develops. Crocker has written 22 herb/ healthy cookbooks including “The Healing Herbs Cookbook,” “The Juicing Bible” and most recently, “The Herbalist’s Kitchen.”

Lara Miklasevics began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. Her experience as a chef helps her make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Jason Ross is a chef consultant for restaurants and hotels, developing menus and concepts for multiple high profile properties. He grew up and trained in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home. He currently teaches the next generation of chefs at Saint Paul College Culinary School.