McCaffrey's REAL FOOD Winter 2024 by Greenspring Media

winter 2024

Winter 2024

Citrus complimentary

C E L E B R AT E

ADD A POP OF SUNSHINE TO

YOUR MENUS

Spirited Dishes volume 19 number 4

Indulgent Chocolate Delights chef spotlight:

Amy Thielen

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SAUCE SO GOOD, ITALIAN CHEFS WISH WE’D DISAPPEAR.

The perfect blend of tomato,100% Bertolli ® Olive Oil, basil, garlic & onion. No wonder chefs are taking it so hard. Now you don’t have to be an Italian chef to be an Italian chef.

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Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.

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THE COMFORTS OF HOME

WINTER Luscious and Bright

Citrus brings out the best in seafood, pork, and more (page 20).

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PHOTOGRAPHER TERRY BRENNAN FOOD ST YLIST LARA MIKLASEVICS

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“One cannot think well, love well, or sleep well if one has not dined well.” –VIRGINIA WOOLF

20 Hello, Sunshine

Brighten your mood and table with these citrus-packed recipes. BY KRISTIN DONNELLY

42 Chocolate Delights

O N T H E COV E R

Warm Buttered Crab with Citrus Salad, page 23

Warm your soul with delicious and indulgent desserts this winter.

P H OTO G R A P H E R

Terry Brennan F O O D ST Y L I ST

RECIPES BY VICTORIA GLASS

Lara Miklasevics

HELLO SUNSHINE TERRY BRENNAN CHOCOLATE DELIGHTS DAN JONES A CROWDED TABLE LACEY CRISWELL LENTILS ADOBE/COBALTSTOCK

AND DUNJA GULIN

PUBLISHER

Tammy Galvin

52 A Crowded Table

Chef Amy Thielen shares how to open your kitchen and heart to the simple joy of cooking for others. BY EMMA ENEBAK AND JERROD SUMNER

E D I TO R I A L D I R EC TO R

Alesha Taylor CO N T E N T D I R EC TO R

Mary Subialka CO N T R I B U T I N G E D I TO R S

Emma Enebak Macy Harder C R E AT I V E D I R EC TO R

Ted Rossiter A RT D I R EC TO R

Olivia Curti

4 Bites

Eat Your Beauty Products: In-season superfoods and at-home topical remedies that will leave you glowing. BY EMMA ENEBAK

6 Four of a Kind

Little lentils are big on nutrition and a versatile plant protein choice. BY MARY SUBIALKA

17 Tips and Tools

Helpful gadgets and hacks to take your DIY coffee drinks to the next level. BY MACY HARDER

18 Healthy Habits

Vegan Eating for Athletes: A look at plantbased foods to sustain an active lifestyle. BY MACY HARDER

30 Kitchen Help

A great range of products can help you get a step ahead on prep and put delicious meals on the table.

34 A Splash of Flavor

Cooking with wine, beer, or spirits adds nuanced layers of flavor to dishes from sandwiches to steak. BY MARY SUBIALKA

56 Pairings

Swirl, Sip, and Snack: Wine makes a great match with your favorite munchies. BY MARY SUBIALKA

P RO D U C T I O N D I R EC TO R

Deidra Anderson A DV E RT I S I N G CO O R D I N ATO R

Ellianna Radovich S A L E S & M A R K E T I N G S P EC I A L I ST

Tausha Martinson-Bright VO L U M E 19, N U M B E R 4

Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 9401 James Ave. S, Suite 152, Bloomington, MN 55431, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. realfoodmag.com The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

winter 2024

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bites

Cool as a Cucumber

Cucumbers are a common treatment to help reduce eye puffiness. They contain ascorbic acid that can help reduce water retention. Place a slice over each closed eye and relax for a bit.

EAT YOUR

Beauty Products

The best place to treat your skin’s winter blues is from your own kitchen, with simple recipes, in-season superfoods, and at-home topical remedies that will leave you glowing by emma enebak inter is harsh on our skin. Less exposure to natural vitamin D and more time spent indoors under artificial lighting can suck moisture from our skin and leave us a dry, flaky mess. It’s tempting to want to douse our skin in products when we experience this winter slump, slathering on moisturizers and creams, scrubbing with cleansers, and turning to glow serums to restore our lifeless complexions. But our skin’s cry for help can often be answered in a more natural way. International makeup artist and beauty expert Wendy Rowe, whose clients have included brands such as Burberry, Chanel, and Hermes and celebrities Victoria Beckham and Cara Delevingne, believes that the best way to achieve a healthy glow through every season is to nourish skin from the inside out. The food we eat holds power, with the potential to be the ultimate beauty enhancer. Beauty and lifestyle expert Alexis Wolfer, founder of online beauty magazine “The Beauty Bean” would agree. Wolfer attests that food is a valuable skin enhancer when eaten and applied topically, supplying recipes for both in her book “The Recipe for Radiance.” As Wolfer says, “meet in the kitchen, because that’s where you’ll find the key to radiant skin.” Read on for simple tips, recipes, and topical remedies that will leave you glowing—both inside and out.

Listen to the Seasons

for you...it makes good sense, and feels better, too.” There are plenty of foods that are at their peak during the winter, including root vegetables like carrots, turnips, and onions and citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and grapefruit. Eating fruits and vegetables that are naturally in season is a sure way to reap maximum benefits from these nutrientpacked foods, as it means they have likely been harvested at their peak. Check out some common winter fruits and vegetables below, and begin incorporating more of these into your diet to help your skin thrive, even as the winter rages on.

Skin-Saving Superfoods It is no secret that many foods have the capacity to benefit different aspects of our health and wellness— from carrots being natural eyesight enhancers to leafy greens helping improve our immune systems and heart health. But it seems fewer people are aware that certain foods can actually improve our complexions, standing in as nature’s ultimate skincare products. And luckily, many of these foods are in season in the wintertime, from pomegranates to citrus fruits and avocados. Whatever negative impact the weather might be having on your skin, there is likely a natural (and delicious) cure you can find right in your kitchen. Here are a few to try. n

In her book “Eat Beautiful” Rowe recalls the four years she spent living in Paris as a young woman, where she discovered that she couldn’t purchase fruits and vegetables that were out of season at local markets. Rowe felt her health, skin, and energy levels greatly improved as a byproduct, because, as she later explains, “Eating foods that are in season is better

natural moisturizer Combating dry winter skin does not always mean splurging on expensive moisturizers and serums. Avocados, which are typically harvested between October and February, are widely known as nature’s moisturizer, packed with healthy fats that hydrate and soothe our skin from the inside as well as antioxidants

W H AT ’ S I N S E A S O N ?

Brussels Sprouts

Cabbage

Mushrooms

Pomegranates

Rutabagas

Winter Squash

Leeks

PHOTOS & ILLUSTRATIONS ADOBE STOCK

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“If you take care of your food and you lead a healthy life, your skin will look wonderful.” –SOPHIA LOREN

Egg White and Raw Honey Glow Mask Egg whites are known to tighten pores and hydrate the skin, and enzymes in honey allow it to reach deep into skin and moisturize its multiple layers. It can also act as a gentle exfoliator.

Oatmeal Avocado Restorative Mask

Crack 1 egg over a small bowl and use a fork to separate the yolk from the white. Discard egg yolk or use for another purpose. Add 1 tablespoon raw honey and use a whisk or fork to evenly mix. Use a clean pastry brush to apply a thin, even layer of the mixture to face and neck, avoiding the eye area. Let dry on skin for 15 to 20 minutes. Rinse with warm water and pat dry.

When applied to the skin, avocados are natural moisturizers and blemish healers and contain anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe the skin. Oatmeal’s dry, flaky consistency can absorb excess oil and prevent acne, as well as balance red and reactive skin.

In a small bowl, mash 1 avocado with a fork until smooth. Blend ¼ cup uncooked oats in a food processor until sand-like. Transfer to the bowl with mashed avocado. Add 1 tablespoon raw honey and 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Stir until well combined. Use fingers to apply an even layer to clean face, avoiding eye area. Let sit for 20 minutes. Rinse with warm water and pat dry. Moisturize, if desired.

that improve skin elasticity. Avocados can also act as moisturizing masks when applied to the face externally (see recipe above). Rowe makes her case in “Eat Beautiful,” concluding “avocado makes a great addition to your diet ... most of the models I work with wholeheartedly agree.” n

combat aging and wrinkles When it comes to reducing the effects of aging on the skin, collagen is an excellent aid. Known to promote skin elasticity and restore its structure, it is never too early to start incorporating more into your diet. Fruits and vegetables with high concentrations of vitamins A and C are known to naturally produce collagen in the body. Some of these include onions, which also contain beneficial antiviral properties, and oranges, a vitamin C superfood that also happens to be a great detoxifier. Both foods peak in the wintertime and are notoriously flavor-packed, making for healthy and delicious recipes all season long.

detox and glow Think citrus. Lemons, oranges, and grapefruit are all powerful detoxifiers due to their rich vitamin C content, which is a great antioxidant as well as a natural skin brightener. All of these staples will be in abundance this winter, and it’s easy to incorporate them into your diet. Squeeze a lemon wedge into a cup of hot water to start your morning or sprinkle some sugar on a grapefruit half and enjoy as a sweet, tart breakfast. Much like these vibrant, colorful fruits, your skin will glow radiant and lively.

armor your skin Our skin cells are constantly threatened by unstable atoms known as free radicals, which are often released by external sources like tobacco smoke and pollutants and—most commonly—the sun. Carrots are natural protectants against these free radicals, due to their high beta-carotene content, a provitamin that our bodies convert into vitamin A once consumed.

Natural At-Home Remedies Food doesn’t just nourish your skin from the inside—there are also many foods with natural properties for great topical treatments. (For a natural exfoliant to soothe dry lips, mix 2 teaspoons sugar with 1 teaspoon almond oil.) Applying these simple home recipes to your skin, much like a cosmetic product, is a cheaper, fresher, and trustworthy alternative to modern skin care. It feels good—and looks good—to know exactly what you are using on your skin. Try the two remedies above, designed to hydrate, soothe, and restore life and vibrancy to your skin.

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four of a kind

The Pulse of Protein Little lentils are big on nutrition and a versatile plant protein choice by mary subialka re lentils a legume, bean, or pulse? Yes! A legume is a plant that grows fruit in the form of pods that split along both sides when it’s ripe. Then the dried, edible seeds from the pods are known as pulses. Peas, soybeans, chickpeas, peanuts, lima beans, green beans, kidney beans, and lentils are all in this category. And call them what you will, lentils are a great inexpensive and versatile plant protein choice. Lentils are round, oval, or lens-shaped disks, many of which can be smaller than the tip of a pencil eraser. The most common varieties you’ll find in the store are the whole green lentils—which keep their shape more when cooked—and split red lentils, which look more orange in color, and are good for sauces and curries. Less common varieties include black Beluga lentils, and smaller French green lentils. Lentils are sold with or without the skins, and whole or split. Split lentils have had their seed coat removed and the inner part of the lentil, known as the cotyledon, has been split in half. The flavor of lentils is rather neutral with a somewhat nutty taste, and differs slightly among the varieties—green have a more pronounced flavor and brown are milder, for example. Lentils soak up the flavor of spices and sauces they are cooked in. These naturally gluten-free little pulses are big on nutrition and staying power. Per ½ cup serving, split red lentils have

150 calories and whole green lentils have 140, with 12 grams of protein, which is comparable to a serving of yogurt and 3 ounces of canned light tuna, which has 17 grams. Lentils have low glycemic index values and are high in vitamin B6, folate, fiber, thiamine, manganese, iron, copper, potassium, and zinc. They are also a good source of vitamin C, niacin, riboflavin, and selenium.

how to cook Lentils are easy to make and don’t need soaking before cooking. 1. Rinse lentils with fresh water before boiling to remove any dust or debris. Cook on a stovetop, using 3 cups of liquid (water, stock, etc.) to 1 cup of dry lentils. Be sure to use a large enough saucepan as the lentils will double or triple in size. (Wait to season with salt until after cooking—if salt is added before, the lentils will become tough.) 2. Bring to a boil, cover tightly, reduce heat, and simmer until they are tender. For split red lentils, cook time is usually only about 5 to 7 minutes. For whole lentils, it is 15 to 20 minutes. Try a variety of uses for these little legumes in the following recipes, courtesy of Lentils.org, the Canadian lentil association, including adding a surprise pop of protein in a chocolaty treat.

storing Store lentils in the cupboard or pantry in a dry, dark, cool location for up to one year. If you have bulk lentils or open packages, transfer them to an airtight container. After one year, cooking time will increase and the quality of your lentils will decrease. Cooked lentils and prepared lentil puree can be frozen in airtight containers or plastic bags and used within 3 months or refrigerated for 1 week.

plant power L E N T I L P L A N TS G R O W A P P R OX I M AT E LY 1 6 T O 24 I N C H E S TA L L , W I T H E AC H S E E D P O D CO N TA I N I N G A B O U T ONE TO THREE LENTILS.

oh, canada Canada is the world’s leading producer and exporter of lentils, with the province of Saskatchewan producing 95% of the country’s lentils. Canada only began growing lentils in the 1970s, now there are over 5,000 active lentil farmers there. India comes close as the second-largest lentil producer. In the U.S., lentils are grown in Montana, North Dakota, and South Dakota, and eastern Washington, northern Idaho, and northeastern Oregon.

PHOTOS (FROM LEFT) ADOBE/MARINA, ADOBE/SPLINE_ X

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Slow-Cooker African Peanut Soup

Take your weeknight soup to a new level with warm harissa spices, coconut milk, and rich peanut butter. The lentils in this dish break down, creating a savory and nutritious canvas for all of the flavors to comingle.

PHOTOS LENTILS.ORG

✁

Beef and Lentil Bolognese Sauce

A rich and hearty Italian meat sauce of slow simmered tomatoes, aromatic onions, garlic, celery, garlic, oregano, beef, and lentils is served atop al dente pasta noodles with fresh basil and grated Parmesan cheese.

Jambalaya Lentil and Orzo Skillet

Bursting with intricate flavors, this dish will be a big hit! It also provides an impressive amount of protein (24g per 11/3 cup serving), and can easily be made gluten-free with brown rice or quinoa.

✂

Cut these out and use the recipes on the reverse side to make creative dishes with lentils.

Coconut Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookie Bars This is a healthy and fun spin on a classic oatmeal chocolate chip cookie. These snack-worthy cookie bars are chock-full of protein, fiber, and other nutrients, but are also indulgent and delicious, making for a nutritious dessert option.

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Jambalaya Lentil and Orzo Skillet

Slow-Cooker African Peanut Soup

MAKES 5 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

1 1 1 1

cup dry orzo pasta tablespoon canola oil pound raw baby shrimp cup chopped white or red onion 4 garlic cloves, chopped 2 cups chopped green bell pepper 1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon oregano Pinch cayenne pepper ¾ cup crushed tomatoes ½ cup water 1 cup cooked green lentils ½ cup thinly sliced green onions (optional)

1. Cook orzo in water to al dente, according to package instructions. 2. While orzo is cooking, heat a large skillet with oil and lightly sauté shrimp. Remove shrimp from the pan and reserve. Add onions, garlic, and green bell peppers and cook until lightly golden. Add spices and cook for 1 minute. Stir in tomatoes and water and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes. 3. When orzo is ready, drain and stir in along with cooked lentils and shrimp into the skillet. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, garnish with green onions, if desired, and serve. Tip: Going gluten-free? Use cooked brown rice or quinoa instead of orzo.

2 cups vegetable or chicken stock 2 (14-ounce) cans light coconut milk 2 cups grated or small diced sweet potato 1 cup grated or small diced carrot 1 cup finely diced white onion 4 garlic cloves, minced

1 cup split red lentils 1 tablespoon harissa spice blend (see Cook’s Note) ½ cup peanut butter (preferably no added sugar) 1 lime, zest and juice to taste, salt and pepper ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

1. In a 6-quart slow cooker, combine stock, coconut milk, sweet potato, carrot, onion, garlic, lentils, spices, and peanut butter. Stir well so that the peanut butter is evenly distributed. Secure the lid and cook for 3.5 hours on high setting or until vegetables are tender. 2. When soup is ready, stir in lime juice and zest, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour into bowls and garnish each with cilantro. Cook’s Note: To make your own Harissa Spice Blend, toast 1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds and 1 teaspoon caraway seeds in a sauté pan on low heat until aromatic. Toss in a spice/coffee grinder and process with 2 teaspoons ground cumin, 1 teaspoon chili flakes, and ½ teaspoon garlic powder. A mortar and pestle can be used to grind the spices as well.

✁ Coconut Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookie Bars

Beef and Lentil Bolognese Sauce

MAKES 28 | RECIPE BY SARAH REMMER

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

½ 1 ¾ ¼ 1¼ 1 ¼ ½

cup split red lentils cup whole-wheat flour cup rolled oats cup shredded coconut teaspoons baking soda teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon salt cup melted coconut oil, cooled

¼ cup packed brown sugar ¼ cup maple syrup 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 large egg ¾ cup mini chocolate chips

1. Heat oven to 375°F. Grease a 9x13-inch baking pan. 2. Rinse lentils under cool running water and transfer to a small saucepan. Cover lentils with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and let simmer for 5 to 7 minutes until lentils are tender. Remove from heat, drain any excess liquid, and set aside to cool. 3. While lentils are cooking, whisk together flour, oats, coconut, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt in a medium bowl. Set aside. 4. To a large bowl, add coconut oil, brown sugar, maple syrup, egg, and vanilla. Add cooked lentils and whisk by hand until the mixture is well blended. 5. Combine wet and dry ingredients, and with a wooden spoon or spatula, gently stir by hand until almost combined. Be sure to not over stir. Add chocolate chips and stir until just incorporated. 6. Transfer mixture to the prepared pan. Bake for 15 minutes, or until top is starting to become golden brown. Allow to cool before slicing and serving.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup chopped onion ½ cup chopped celery 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 pound lean ground beef 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon fennel seeds ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg ½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 cup dry red wine 2 cups cooked green lentils 1 (28-ounce) can tomatoes, chopped ¼ cup chopped fresh basil Parmesan cheese, for serving

1. Set a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. Heat for 20 seconds, then stir in onion, celery, and garlic and cook for 2 minutes, until soft. 2. Stir in ground beef, oregano, fennel seeds, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Cook for 5 minutes. 3. Stir in red wine, turn heat to high and let the wine reduce for another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in lentils and canned tomatoes, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, partially remove lid, and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in chopped basil, and adjust seasonings with salt and pepper. Serve atop al dente pasta with fresh basil and grated Parmesan cheese. Tip: Prep ahead for weeknight meals: Make extra Bolognese and serve as a topping to polenta or spaghetti squash throughout the week. Or freeze your sauce for future weeknight rushes.

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welcome

BOURBON CHICKEN WINGS

LOCATIONS BLUE BELL, PA wine & beer available! 1301 Skippack Pike 215-437-3200 DOYLESTOWN, PA Simply Fresh By McCaffrey’s 200 West State St. 215-348-1000 GLADWYNE, PA 1025 Youngs Ford Road 484-229-2777 NEW HOPE, PA wine & beer available! 300 West Bridge St. 267-741-8001 NEWTOWN, PA wine & beer available! 2890 South Eagle Road 215-579-1310 YARDLEY, PA 635 Heacock Road 215-493-9616 PRINCETON, NJ wine, beer & spirits available! 301 North Harrison St. 609-683-1600 WEST WINDSOR, NJ wine, beer & spirits available! Princeton-Hightstown Road and Southfield Road 609-799-3555 FARM-FRESH FOODS McCaffrey’s brings you the freshest variety of foods—frequently from our own backyard! Look for our locally grown seasonal produce. You’ll love its superior freshness. CHEF’S KITCHEN Shopping for dinner at McCaffrey’s is like having a personal chef. Find just the right meal for you and your family in our Prepared Foods Department, including our Gourmet To Go family meals.

PHOTO (ABOVE) ADOBE

GOURMET CATERING McCaffrey’s is your best choice for elegant, in-home dining and entertaining. Using only the highest quality, freshest ingredients, our professional catering staff guarantees delicious and elegant food you can serve with absolute confidence. If you would like to discuss your catering needs or meet with us personally, we are available Monday to Friday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 9 a.m. to noon and by appointment. Please call our Catering Planners at 1-800-717-7174. mccaffreys.com

New Year’s Comfort Zone T

he holidays are over, but you might still have a couple of gatherings, relatives, and resolutions to tackle. This issue will help with lowering your anxiety while elevating your menus with a number of exceptional recipes and kitchen tips—from Blood Orange Upside Down Cake (page 28) to selecting and preparing shrimp (page 10). And don’t worry, our knowledgeable associates in every department are here to help you get to the new year’s end zone calmly and contently!

five cooking ideas to take you from the stretch and panic zones to the comfort and end zones: Cooking with Citrus—from Cauliflower Tacos with Creamy Lime Slaw to Gingery-Orange Slow-Cooked Pork Shoulder ■ Cooking with Wine, Beer and Spirits—from Bourbon Chicken Wings to Steak au Poivre ■ Cooking with Chocolate—Double Cocoa and Strawberry Cake (vegan) to Tarte au Chocolat (make-ahead) ■ Cooking with Ready-Made Items—from Chicken Alfredo “Rice” Bake to Impossible Meatball Subs ■ Cooking with Lentils—from Slow-Cooker African Peanut Soup to Coconut Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookie Bars ■

We hope you enjoy this issue of Real Food with our compliments. Whether you’re in the “stretch zone”— challenging yourself to learn a new recipe or kitchen skill—or in the “panic zone”—feeling anxious or overwhelmed in the kitchen—McCaffrey’s will help you get to your “comfort zone”! Happy New Year,

James J. McCaffrey III president

James J. McCaffrey IV executive vice president

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seafood

Jewel of the Sea Shrimp is a year-round gem in your recipe box

general size categories/ number per pound Colossal (10 or less) Jumbo (11-15) Extra-large (16-20) Large (21-30) Medium (31-35) Small (36-45) Miniature (about 100)

PHOTOS ADOBE

t’s no wonder shrimp is America’s favorite seafood, given its mild flavor and firm, juicy texture. But it’s not only popular, it’s also nutritious. Shrimp is low in saturated fat and is also a good source of niacin, iron, phosphorus, and zinc, and it is a very good source of protein, vitamin B12, and selenium. Fresh shrimp is in season from May to October, but with today’s method of flash-freezing at sea, shrimp is not only fresher than it has ever been, but easily enjoyed year-round. Most of the shrimp harvested in the United States comes from the waters of the south Atlantic and Gulf states, with a smaller number caught in the Pacific. While there are more than 300 varieties of shrimp, they can be divided into two broad classifications—warm-water shrimp and cold-water shrimp. The colder waters usually produce smaller shrimp. The most popular types of shrimp are brown, pink, and white. These names refer to their general color before cooking, however, because of a chemical change after exposure to heat, most shrimp shells turn pink when cooked. Because shrimp are so small, they are sold by a number count per pound rather than by individual weight. This is expressed as a range. For example, a 16-20-count package means it contains shrimp of such a size that it would take from 16 to 20 of them to make up a pound. On the other end of the spectrum, it might only take 10 shrimp labeled “colossal” to make up a pound. So the smaller the count, the larger the shrimp; and the larger the count, the smaller the shrimp. Packages will be labeled according to the number per pound as well as a descriptive name of the size.

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selecting Determining how much to buy will depend on the size, but generally allow about 3⁄4 pound headless shrimp in the shell per person. If the shrimp are shelled, figure about 1⁄3 to 1⁄2 pound per person. Another good rule is that 2 pounds of shrimp in their shells will yield about 1¼ pounds when peeled. Though there are slight differences in texture and flavor, the various sizes (except the miniatures) can usually be substituted for one another in a recipe. Keep in mind, the larger the shrimp, the larger the price tag so if you’re going to be chopping up the shrimp, you could get by with smaller ones and save the showier big ones for dishes in which they’re served whole where they’ll draw the attention they deserve.

preparing and serving Defrost frozen shrimp either in the refrigerator overnight or in cold water—do not defrost it at room temperature. And it is best not to defrost in the microwave. For the best flavor and quality, use fresh shrimp within 1 or 2 days. Cooked shrimp can be refrigerated 3 to 4 days. Shrimp should always be cooked quickly—overcooking can easily ruin its sweet, delicate flavors. Most shrimp cook in as little as 3 minutes. When they turn pink and slightly opaque, they’re done. This tasty seafood is a popular appetizer—especially with a cocktail sauce—and works well in salads and various main dishes from stir-fries to pasta. Try it served in a spicy tomato sauce with spaghetti in the recipe at right and keep things cozy this winter.

Shrimp Fra Diavolo With Spaghetti MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS | RECIPE BY STEVEN CAPODICASA

Warm up with this spicy shrimp in a hearty tomato sauce made with crushed red pepper, garlic, and fresh herbs. ¼ 4 1-1½ ½ 2

cup olive oil cloves garlic, peeled and sliced teaspoons hot pepper flakes cup white wine (28-ounce) cans whole peeled Italian tomatoes, lightly broken up 1 pound dry spaghetti

1 pound 21-26 raw, peeled and deveined shrimp, rinsed 1 cup basil leaves, divided ½ cup chopped Italian parsley 2 tablespoons sea salt, for pasta cooking water, plus more to taste Pepper, to taste

1. In a large sauté pan, heat olive oil over low to medium heat, add in sliced garlic and hot pepper flakes. Sauté garlic until the slices turn a light golden brown. 2. Remove pan from heat and deglaze with white wine, being careful of any flare-ups. Place pan back on medium heat and add in broken tomatoes and reduce sauce by onethird, adding in ¾ cup of the basil leaves. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring often. 3. Add in shrimp and cover again over medium heat. Cook for 5 to 6 minutes, remove lid, and adjust seasoning with sea salt, pepper, and hot pepper flakes to taste. Add in chopped Italian parsley. Turn off heat and keep covered until ready to use. 4. Bring 1 gallon of water to a boil in a large pot. Add 2 tablespoons salt, and cook spaghetti according to package instructions until al dente. Drain, and reserve 1 cup pasta water. Do not rinse cooked spaghetti with cold water. 5. Place cooked spaghetti back into the pot it was cooked in, add in a little pasta water, and simmer over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes. Pour shrimp sauce into pot and mix well. Transfer onto a large platter and garnish with the remaining basil leaves.

mccaffreys.com

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meat department

Beef Up Dinner T

he slow cooker is a great tool to help with dinner while you tend to other matters, whether it’s the weekend, you’re at work, or working from home. And beef is a great protein to slowly cook until it’s tender and juicy for use in tacos, sandwiches, or atop rice. You can also use your slow cooker to make chili and succulent short ribs with these recipes courtesy of Beef, It’s What’s for Dinner. Beef is not only easy to prepare, it’s an excellent source of protein and supplies 10 essential nutrients including B vitamins, zinc, and iron that support an active and healthy lifestyle.

Four-Way Slow Cooker Shredded Beef MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Got a hankering for delicious shredded beef? Try one of these four recipe variations, sure to please any crowd. 1 beef shoulder roast (2 to 2½ pounds) 1 tablespoon vegetable oil (optional) 1 large onion, chopped

2 tablespoons minced garlic Salt and pepper, to taste Recipe Variations (see below)

1. For optional browning, heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until hot. Brown beef shoulder roast on all sides. 2. Place onion and garlic in a 3½ to 5 quart slow cooker and place roast on top. Cover and cook on high 5 to 6 hours or low 9 to 10 hours or until roast is fork tender. 3. Remove roast from slow cooker. Skim fat from cooking liquid, if necessary, and reserve 1 cup onion mixture. Shred beef with two forks. Combine shredded beef and reserved onion mixture. Season with salt and pepper, as desired. Continue as directed in recipe variations below, as desired.

Mexican Shredded Beef Combine tomato or tomatillo salsa and beef mixture, as desired. Place in a large microwave-safe bowl. Cover, vent, and microwave until heated through, stirring occasionally. Serve in warmed flour or corn tortillas topped with pico de gallo, sliced avocados, shredded cheese, chopped cilantro, and/or chopped white or green onions, as desired.

BBQ Shredded Beef Combine prepared barbecue sauce and beef mixture. Place in a large microwavesafe bowl. Cover, vent, and microwave until heated through, stirring occasionally. Serve on whole-wheat rolls topped with creamy horseradish sauce, coleslaw, cheddar cheese slices, chopped green bell pepper, and/or canned French fried onions, as desired.

Asian Shredded Beef Combine prepared hoisin or teriyaki sauce and beef mixture. Place in a large microwave-safe bowl. Cover, vent, and microwave until heated through, stirring occasionally. Serve in lettuce or cabbage cups topped with shredded carrots, sliced cucumbers, chopped fresh cilantro or mint, Sriracha sauce or crushed red pepper flakes, and/or chopped peanuts, as desired.

Indian Shredded Beef Combine prepared Indian cooking sauce, such as Tikka Masala or Vindaloo. Place in a large microwave-safe bowl. Cover, vent, and microwave until heated through, stirring occasionally. Serve in naan or pita bread topped with toasted chopped pistachios or coconut, raisins, Greek yogurt, or mango chutney, chopped fresh mint or cilantro, and/ or sliced cucumbers or green onion, as desired.

ILLUSTRATIONS ADOBE

variations

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Chilly Day Beef Chili

Chipotle-Braised Beef Short Ribs

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This super-simple hearty chili will warm you up combining beef stew meat, black beans, onions, salsa, and Tex-Mex spices.

Wow your friends at your next dinner party with these top-notch beef short ribs simmered slowly in a rich roasted pepper and tomato sauce.

1 boneless beef chuck roast, cut into ½-inch pieces (about 2½ pounds) 2 (15.5-ounce) cans black beans, drained and rinsed 1 (15.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes (chili or zest-style) 1 medium onion, chopped 2 teaspoons chili powder 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon pepper 1 cup prepared thick-and-chunky salsa Toppings: Shredded cheddar cheese, diced red onion, diced green onion, diced avocado, and dairy sour cream (optional)

1. Combine boneless beef chuck roast and all other ingredients, except salsa and toppings, in 4½- to 5½- quart slow cooker; mix well. Cover and cook on high 5½ to 6 hours or on low 8 to 9 hours or until beef is tender. (No stirring is necessary during cooking.) 2. Just before serving, stir in salsa and cook 2 to 3 minutes or until heated through. Serve with toppings, as desired.

3 pounds bone-in beef chuck short ribs 1 tablespoon vegetable oil ½ teaspoon black pepper ¼ teaspoon salt 1 cup diced white onion 1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

5 medium poblano peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch thick strips (see Cook’s Note) 1 -2 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, finely chopped

Garnishes: Chopped white onion, chopped fresh cilantro, lime wedges (optional) 1. Heat oil in large stockpot over medium heat until hot. Brown beef short ribs evenly. Remove from stockpot and season with salt and black pepper. 2. Add 1 cup onion to stockpot; cook 3 to 5 minutes or until tender, stirring occasionally. 3. Add tomatoes, poblano peppers, and chipotle peppers to stockpot. Return beef to pan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover tightly, and simmer 1½ to 2½ hours or until beef is fork tender. 4. Remove beef; keep warm. Skim fat from cooking liquid. 5. Spoon cooking liquid over beef. Sprinkle with chopped onion and cilantro, as desired. Garnish with lime wedges and season with salt and pepper, as desired. Cook’s Note: To cook in a slow cooker, season beef with black pepper and salt. Add beef, onion, tomatoes, poblano peppers and chipotle peppers to 4½ to 5½ quart slow cooker and stir to combine. Cook on high 4 to 6 hours or on low for 8 to 10 hours, or until beef is fork tender. (No stirring is necessary during cooking.) Remove beef; keep warm. Skim fat from cooking liquid. Spoon cooking liquid over beef. Sprinkle with chopped onion and cilantro, as desired. Garnish with lime wedges, if desired.

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deli

Pulled EverRoast Chicken and Vegetable Soup MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Join delectable vegetables and Boar’s Head tender EverRoast Chicken for a fresh, savory soup your whole family will love. 2 ¼ 1 3 4

Cozy Comforts

iscover a wide selection of Boar’s Head cheeses and meats in our deli department. They are not only perfect for whipping up sandwiches, but also creamy mac and cheese, soup, and more in these comforting and delicious recipes that use a variety of products including EverRoast Oven Roasted Chicken Breast, an array of savory cheeses, and Boar’s Head Andouille Chicken Sausage.

Andouille Chicken Sausage Jambalaya MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This hearty, Cajun inspired dish combines Boar’s Head Andouille Chicken Sausage and a blend of flavorful spices to create a jambalaya that is bursting with flavor. 8 ounces Golden Classic Oven Roasted Chicken Breast-42% Lower Sodium, shredded 8 ounces Boar’s Head Andouille Chicken Sausage, sliced 1 teaspoon Jalapeño Pepper Sauce 1 tablespoon olive oil ½ yellow onion, diced small 1 green bell pepper

1½ celery stalks, diced small 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 (14 ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained 1½ cups low sodium chicken stock 1 cup long grain rice, par-boiled 1 teaspoon chopped thyme 1 bay leaf 2 scallions, sliced

2 2 2 2 2

tablespoons olive oil head cabbage, shredded red onion, finely chopped celery stalks, finely chopped small Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into ½-inch cubes carrots, cut into 1-inch julienne strips teaspoons dried oregano, plus 6 sprigs for garnish (14-ounce) cans low sodium chicken broth (14-ounce) cans low sodium fire-roasted tomatoes cups EverRoast Oven Roasted Chicken Breast, thickly sliced

1. Add the olive oil to a large soup pot and heat over mediumhigh heat until the oil is hot. 2. Add the cabbage, onion, celery, and potatoes, and sauté for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. 3. Add the carrots, dried oregano, chicken broth, and tomatoes. Cook 20 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. 4. Shred the chicken and add to the soup. Stir to mix all ingredients. 5. Serve in individual bowls garnished with an oregano stem.

1. In a large oven-safe pot, heat olive oil over medium-high heat until translucent. 2. Add andouille sausage, cooking until slightly caramelized. Remove and set aside. 3. Add onions, peppers, and celery to the same pot, cooking until tender. 4. Add garlic and blackening seasoning cooking until garlic becomes fragrant, stirring constantly. 5. Add sausage back to pot and stir in tomatoes, stock, rice, thyme, bay leaves, and seasoning. Bring mixture to simmer and cover pot. 6. Place pot into oven and bake about 20 minutes or until rice is thoroughly cooked. 7. Remove from oven and fold in chicken. 8. Put jambalaya into serving dishes and finish with scallions.

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Smoked Gouda Mac and Cheese MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This is the definitive homemade mac and cheese for those who appreciate quality artisanship. Boar’s Head Vermont Cheddar, Smoked Gouda, and Whole Milk Mozzarella melt together into rigatoni noodles for rich and creamy perfection.

EverRoast Chicken Pot Hand Pies MAKES 4 SERVINGS

A savory, creamy comfort food in a fraction of the time. Dinner-cut EverRoast Chicken and premade pie dough make these delicious hand pies truly effortless, without sacrificing on homestyle flavor.

PHOTOS BOAR’S HEAD

2 2 1 1 2 2

tablespoons butter medium carrots, chopped large yellow onion, chopped large celery stalk, chopped teaspoons garlic, minced tablespoons flour

1½ cups chicken broth 1 pound EverRoast Oven Roasted Chicken Breast, dinner cut 1 tablespoon heavy cream 1 package premade pie dough 1 large egg, beaten

1. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Then add carrots, onion, and celery to the skillet. Cook for about 7 minutes, or until tender, s tirring occasionally. 2. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. 3. Add flour to the skillet and stir continually, making sure all ingredients are coated, about 1 minute. Add chicken broth and stir until the mixture has thickened, about 2 minutes. 4. Add the chicken and cream, then stir. Remove the skillet from heat and cool. 5. Heat the oven to 375°F. Separate pie dough into 8 pieces and use a rolling pin to roll the pieces into 5-inch circles. 6. Distribute the skillet mixture evenly among each dough circle. Add water to the edges of the dough circles and fold the dough in half over the filling. Pinch the edges of the dough together, then crimp with a fork. 7. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, then place each hand pie on the sheet. Mix the beaten egg with 1 tablespoon water, then brush over the dough. Use a fork to score each hand pie. 8. Bake the hand pies until thoroughly heated and until the pastry is golden brown, about 25 minutes. Let cool briefly, then serve.

1 pound rigatoni noodles, cooked al dente 4 tablespoons butter 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups heavy cream 2 cups milk 8 ounces Vermont Yellow Cheddar Cheese 8 ounces Blanc Grue Gruyere Cheese 4 ounces Whole Milk Mozzarella Cheese 4 slices Butcher Craft Thick Cut Naturally Smoked Bacon, chopped 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon hot sauce

1. Heat oven to 350°F. Cook the pasta according to package instructions. 2. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium high heat. Add the flour and whisk to combine. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes. 3. Slowly whisk in the heavy cream and milk. Continue to whisk periodically until thick, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. 4. Add the cheddar, smoked Gouda, mozzarella cheese, bacon, salt, pepper, and hot sauce to the pan and stir until melted. 5. Add the cooked pasta; stir to combine with the cheese mixture. 6. Pour the mac and cheese into an ovenproof baking dish and bake for 20 to 25 minutes.

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wine, beer, and spirits

ISSUE

Selections Sip delicious wines for great partners alongside these featured recipes and cheeses

Château Beauchene Cotes Du Rhône GINGERY-ORANGE SLOW-COOKED PORK SHOULDER | PAGE 27

Lobster Reef Sauvignon Blanc FISH WITH HERBY LEMON

A classic Rhône blend from vineyards renewed over 15 years ago, this is voluptuous with notes of jammy red fruits accentuated by spices and a palate with satiny tannins that ends with a subtle note of violet. Cheese and Wine Pairing: Aged cheddar or aged Gouda

AND WALNUT RELISH | PAGE 22

This refreshing Sauvignon Blanc with gorgeous passion fruit and stone fruit flavors zips along with firm acidity and finishes long, clean, and invigorating. Enjoy with lobster, other shellfish, or fresh salads. Cheese and Wine Pairing: Parmigiano-Reggiano

Domaine Du Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape CLASSIC BEEF BOURGUIGNONNE | PAGE 36

The flagship of Domaine du Pegau, this epitomizes the quality of the estate over many years. The blend of 13 grape varieties, mainly Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, begins with aromas of plums, dried stone fruits, leather, and sandalwood, followed by a rich and powerful mouthfeel, and finished with delicate, soft tannins. Cheese and Wine Pairing: Gorgonzola or Stilton

Donati Cabernet Sauvignon STEAK AU POIVRE | PAGE 38

This Paso Robles, California, Cabernet Sauvignon showcases aromas of milk chocolate truffles on the nose with lingering notes of dark cherry and candied white raspberry. Hints of cranberry linger on the palate, creating an excellent mouthfeel with a pleasant and long-lasting finish. Cheese and Wine Pairing: Gruyère or Roquefort

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tips and tools

BE YOUR OWN

Barista

Want to up your at-home coffee game this winter? These helpful gadgets and hacks will take your DIY drinks to the next level. by macy harder

Coffee Cubes

Keep it Fresh

The key to a great cup of coffee is storing your beans properly. The National Coffee Association notes that air, moisture, heat, and light can all compromise the taste of coffee beans, and recommends storing them in an opaque, airtight container. If you’ve been keeping beans in their retail packaging, consider upgrading your storage to something that will save your coffee in the long run. Additionally, keep your beans in a dark, cool location rather than a sun-exposed kitchen counter.

PHOTOS ADOBE STOCK

Creamer Concoctions

If you drink iced coffee year-round, you’re probably all too familiar with the disappointment of a watered-down drink. To curb this issue, try preparing your drinks with coffee ice cubes. Simply pour espresso, cold brew, or room temperature coffee into an ice cube tray and let it freeze, then use in your beverage of choice. Your drink will get an extra coffee kick as the ice melts over time rather than getting diluted.

If you have a sweet tooth, flavored creamers are likely your bread and butter. To save a few dollars and have a creamer tailored to your taste buds, try making your own at home. Self-taught cook and Milwaukeebased mom Lisa Longley offers recipes for vanilla, chocolate, and cinnamon creamers on her blog, Simple Joy. She suggests combining ¾ cup half-and-half, 1 cup milk, 14 ounces sweetened condensed milk, and 2 teaspoons vanilla extract in a large measuring cup or bowl. Whisk together until combined, and stop here for a delicious vanilla creamer. For chocolate, whisk 2 tablespoons cocoa powder with the condensed milk before combining the mixture with the rest of the ingredients. The same process can be applied for a cinnamon creamer, adding 1⁄2 to 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon. Use these immediately or store in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Whisk-y Business

Adding a splash of milk in your cup of joe just isn’t the same as the fluff y froth you can get at the coffee shop. But this simple kitchen tool can help you achieve barista-level beverages at home. Handheld milk frothers are compact and easy to use with dairy and nondairy milks alike, transforming hot or cold milk into a delicious, airy topping with the press of a button. Add a bit of luxury to your morning brew without breaking the bank— most varieties of this tool are sold for less than $20.

What is Coffee?

Where does your mug of caffeinated goodness comes from? It’s a little more complex than just beans—in fact, the process begins with fruit. Coffee cherries grow on the branches of coffee trees, and can take six to seven months to mature. Nestled inside each cherry are two seeds, which are eventually harvested, processed, and roasted to become the beans we brew.

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healthy habits

Vegan Eating

FOR ATHLETES A closer look at using plant-based foods to sustain an active lifestyle by macy harder

ontrary to widespread belief, it’s possible to support a high-intensity, athletic lifestyle while eating a vegan diet. Giving up animal products does not mean you have to sacrifice essential macro- and micronutrients—you just have to know where to find them. Nichole Dandrea-Russert is a registered dietitian nutritionist who specializes in plant-based eating for the

body and mind, and is the author of “The Vegan Athlete’s Nutrition Handbook,” which takes a deep dive into the science behind plant-based eating and its relationship with athletic performance. She explains that plant-based foods contain a “plethora of fiber and antioxidants that can help to fuel movement of all kinds,” whether or not you consider yourself an elite athlete.

Champion Chili MAKES 4 SERVINGS | RECIPE BY NICHOLE DANDREA-RUSSERT

1 1 1 1 8 4 1 1 1 1 1

tablespoon oil cup chopped red onion cup chopped bell pepper large carrot, chopped ounces organic tempeh, crumbled large garlic cloves, minced tablespoon chili powder tablespoon ground cumin teaspoon onion powder teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon chipotle chili powder (optional)

½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper 2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and diced (optional) 1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes 3 cups cooked beans, drained and rinsed if canned (black, kidney, and pinto are great choices) 2 cups vegetable broth 2 cups chopped spinach ¼ cup chopped cilantro (optional) ¼ cup sliced green onion

and tempeh. Cook until the onions are translucent and tempeh is slightly browned, about 3 to 4 minutes. 2. Stir in the garlic and cook for another minute. 3. Stir in the spices, salt, pepper, and jalapeño pepper, if using. Mix well. 4. Add the diced tomatoes, beans, and vegetable broth. Stir well. 5. Simmer on low for 45 to 60 minutes (longer for thicker consistency and more concentrated flavors). 6. Remove from heat and stir in the spinach until tender. 7. Divide among bowls and top with optional cilantro and green onion. Store leftovers in the refrigerator for up to 7 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

PHOTO NICHOLE DANDREA-RUSSERT ILLUSTRATION ADOBE/VECTORMINE

1. Heat a large soup pot on medium-high heat. Add the oil, onions, peppers, carrots,

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Carbohydrates

Protein

One of the most common misconceptions about plant-based eating is that there isn’t enough protein available. “As long as an individual is consuming enough calories and a variety of plant-based foods throughout the day, they can easily meet protein requirements,” Dandrea-Russert says. Plant foods with the highest protein content include legumes, nuts, seeds, and whole grains. Additionally, she notes that plants and plant foods containing adequate amounts of all nine essential amino acids include edamame, quinoa, amaranth, chia seeds, tofu, tempeh, and nutritional yeast. In her book, she explains that the optimization of protein intake for plant-based athletes requires attention to the quantity and quality of protein consumed, as well as the timing of protein consumption. “When looking at improving body composition, consuming 20 to 40 grams of highquality protein every three to four hours appears to favorably affect muscle protein synthesis rates when compared to other dietary patterns,” Dandrea-Russert writes. For snacks and meals with plantbased protein, she suggests:

ILLUSTRATIONS ADOBE/IRINA STRELNIKOVA

■

Peanut butter, hemp seed, and jelly on whole-grain bread (24 grams) Quinoa bowl with chickpeas and broccoli (23 grams) Buckwheat chia pancakes with almond butter and berries (23 grams) Mexican bowl with brown rice, black beans, salsa, and avocado (23 grams)

Despite often negative connotations, not all carbohydrates are unhealthy. In fact, they’re essential macronutrients that help our bodies receive energy from food. But the carbohydrate conversation is nuanced. Dandrea-Russert breaks it down into three categories: whole food carbohydrates, minimally processed carbohydrates, and ultra-processed carbohydrates. “When you consume whole plant-based foods that are rich sources of carbohydrates, you consume everything that comes with it: fiber, vitamins, minerals, and phytonutrients that are beneficial for health,” she writes. Whole fruits, whole grains, starchy vegetables, and legumes are a few examples of plant-based sources of whole food carbohydrates. On the other hand, ultra-processed carbohydrates don’t come with those essential nutrients and are essentially “empty calories,” often found in candy, soda, and syrups. Carbohydrates are especially important for athletes when it comes to recovery nutrition. “Immediately following exercise, research shows that nutritious, carbohydrate-rich foods that are easily digested and absorbed can optimize glycogen synthesis, which is important when training multiple days in a row or more than one training session a day,” DandreaRussert notes. Post-training snacks and mini meals for optimal carbohydrates include bananas with peanut butter, avocado toast with pineapple, rice and lentil bowls, and hummus wraps.

Fats

Like carbohydrates, fats get a bad rap, even though they carry out essential functions. They give us energy, help absorb nutrients, support cell function, and produce hormones. Fats can be broken down into three types: saturated, unsaturated, and trans fatty acids. For athletes, “minimizing saturated and trans fats while focusing on monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats is best, as the latter types of fats have been shown to help health and performance,” notes Dandrea-Russert. Whole plant-based foods high in monounsaturated fat include almonds, cashews, peanuts, olives, nut butters, and avocados. Plant-based foods and oils are the primary sources of polyunsaturated fats, she explains, which are needed for blood clotting, muscle movement, and to fight inflammation. These are broken down into two main types—omega-3 fatty acids and omega-6 fatty acids. Plant-based sources of omega-3 fatty acids include flax meal, chia seeds, hemp seeds, walnuts, some leafy greens, and Brussels sprouts. Omega-6 fatty acids are found in tofu, nuts, seeds, vegetable oils, and margarines. Ideally, Dandrea-Russert explains, the omega-6 to omega-3 ratio should be 4-to-1, whereas the typical Western diet usually provides a 15- or 16-to-1 ratio. The bottom line? Here’s what Dandrea-Russert suggests in terms of fats: ■ Strive for 20% to 35% of daily calories from fat. ■ Limit saturated fat to less than 10% of total daily calories. ■ Limit trans-fat to less than 1% of your daily calories. ■ Incorporate food sources of omega-3 fatty acids daily.

Micronutrients and Small Steps

The macronutrients—protein, carbohydrates, and fats—are important for any diet, but don’t forget about key micronutrients such as calcium, vitamin D, iron, and magnesium. Dandrea-Russert suggests consuming a variety of beans, leafy greens, mushrooms that contain vitamin D, organic soy foods, nuts, seeds, and in some cases, additional supplements to make sure these needs are met. If you’re considering making the switch to a vegan diet, remember that it doesn’t have to be an overnight change. Dandrea-Russert recommends starting by swapping one meal per day or week for a plant-based alternative. “Small steps can make a big impact on health and performance,” she says. And, always consult your health care provider if you have health concerns or before making any major dietary changes.

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ello, unshin Brighten your mood and table with these citrus-packed recipes by kristin donnelly

n the depths of winter, citrus fruits taste like edible sunshine while bringing us some of the vital nutrients we need. Most famous as a source for immune system-supporting vitamin C, the fruits are also full of plant compounds that can have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. The recipes on the following pages celebrate the many gorgeous types of citrus fruits we can find in store this time of year. (In the U.S., citrus grows best in the warmer climates of California, Florida, Arizona, and Texas, and the season runs from about September through June.) While vitamin C is most potent in dishes where the citrus is used raw, you can be sure that whether cooked or not, the citrus in these recipes will uplift your taste buds and brighten your table.

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F I S H W I T H H E R BY LEMON AND WA L N U T R E L I S H

Fish with Herby Lemon and Walnut Relish MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Whole bits of lemon create pops of flavor in this relish. Meyer lemons—which are a cross between lemons and oranges—are sweeter than regular lemons, but either variety works well. This relish works best with fleshier varieties of white fish, like the ones in the recipe, or you could try it with oily fish, like mackerel. Alongside, try serving with roasted or boiled potatoes or steamed rice. ½ 1 ½ ¼ ½

cup walnuts Meyer lemon or other lemon cup chopped dill cup chopped parsley cup olive extra-virgin olive oil, plus 1 tablespoon for brushing ¼ teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon fine sea salt, divided 4 (6-ounce) fillets fleshy white fish, such as mahi-mahi, halibut, or cod

1. Heat the oven to 350°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Spread the walnuts on the baking sheet and toast for about 4 minutes, until fragrant. Transfer the nuts to a work surface, let cool slightly, then coarsely chop them. Save the parchment paper. 2. Meanwhile, using a sharp knife, remove the rind and bitter white pith from the lemon. Cut between the membranes to release the sections onto a work surface then coarsely chop the flesh, removing the seeds as you go. 3. In a bowl, mix the walnuts with the chopped lemon, dill, parsley, cumin, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ½ cup olive oil. 4. Arrange the fish on the parchment-lined baking sheet and brush with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Season with ¾ teaspoon salt. Bake for 6 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets, until a butter knife inserted into the center of the fish is very warm. Serve the fish with the relish.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 480, Fat: 42g (Sat: 6g), Cholesterol: 75mg, Sodium: 1040mg, Carb: 5g, Fiber: 2g, Sugar: 1g, Protein: 27g

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Warm Buttered Crab with Citrus Salad MAKES 4 SERVINGS AS A STARTER

This recipe is all about delicious contrast. There is the warm and luscious crab against the cool and bright citrus. Both ingredients are just barely adorned with a little salt and chile pepper so they bring out the best in each other. If you prefer, you could make the same recipe and use 8 ounces medium peeled and deveined shrimp in place of the crab. 4 large citrus fruits, such as blood oranges, tangerines, Cara Cara oranges, grapefruit, navel oranges, or a mix of these 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 8 ounces cooked crab meat 1 lime Pinch of mild ground chile pepper, such as ancho or Aleppo Flaky salt, for sprinkling ¼ cup microgreens or baby arugula leaves, optional, for garnish 1 tablespoon chopped chives

1. Using a sharp knife, cut the rind and all of the bitter white pith off the citrus fruits. Set each fruit on its side and cut into rounds, each about ⅓ inch thick. Halve the rounds if they’re extra large. Arrange the citrus on a platter in a single layer so the pieces are slightly overlapping. Alternatively, divide the citrus among 4 plates. 2. In a medium skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat. Add the crab and cook, stirring until just heated through, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Finely zest the lime so you have about ½ teaspoon zest and stir it into the crab. Squeeze 1 teaspoon lime or lemon juice over the crab. Season the crab with chile pepper. 3. Sprinkle the citrus with flaky salt. Arrange the warm crab on top and garnish with microgreens, if desired, and chives. Serve immediately.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 120, Fat: 3g (Sat: 2g), Cholesterol: 50mg, Sodium: 270mg, Carb: 14g, Fiber: 2g, Sugar: 10g, Protein: 11g

WA R M B U T T E R E D CRAB WITH CITRUS SALAD

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CAU L I F LOW E R TACO S W I T H C R E A MY L I M E S L AW

Cauliflower Tacos with Creamy Lime Slaw MAKES 4 SERVINGS

For these vegetarian tacos, cauliflower gets tossed with spices and roasted, then finished with a spritz of lime. The slaw on top adds a nice crunch. If you like a little heat, top the tacos with pickled jalapeños. In this recipe, black beans add more protein, but you could also toss the cauliflower with some cooked chicken instead—or some of the pork from the Gingery-Orange Slow-Cooked Pork Shoulder (page 27). for the cauliflower

for the tacos

1 (2-pound) head cauliflower, cored and cut into medium florets 2 tablespoons melted virgin coconut oil or neutral oil, like canola 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ancho chile powder or sweet paprika ½ teaspoon garlic powder ½ teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon fine sea salt Finely grated zest and juice of ½ lime 1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained

3 tablespoons mayonnaise Juice of 1 lime (about 2 tablespoons) ½ small head green cabbage (about 1 pound), shredded (about 3 cups) 2 scallions, thinly sliced ½ cup cilantro 12 small corn tortillas Sliced pickled jalapeños, optional, for serving

1. For the cauliflower, heat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. In a bowl, toss the cauliflower with the oil, cumin, chile powder, garlic powder, turmeric, and salt. 3. Spread the cauliflower out on the parchment-lined baking sheet and roast on the lower shelf of the oven for about 25 minutes, until browned on the bottom. Add the beans to the cauliflower and cook just to warm them through, about 5 minutes. 4. Sprinkle the cauliflower with the lime zest and squeeze the juice over top and toss. 5. For the tacos, in a bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise with the lime juice. Add the cabbage, scallions, and cilantro, and toss. 6. On the stovetop directly over a flame, or in a dry medium frying pan over medium heat,

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HOW TO U S E

IT ITUS EELS AND ZEST

warm the tortillas, turning once, until just pliable and warmed through, about 30 seconds per side. Wrap the tortillas in a clean towel to keep them warm. 7. Set out the cauliflower, slaw, tortillas, and pickled jalapeños, if using, and invite people to assemble their own tacos.

Nutrition (per serving):

Citrus zest, which comes from the outer peels of the fruit, lets us add the gorgeous fragrance of the fruit to dishes without its sweetness and acidity. Oftentimes, you’ll want to use citrus zests with the fruit or the juice for a full spectrum of citrusy goodness. Here, some tips for using citrus zest and peels in the kitchen. ■

■

Calories: 450, Fat: 18g (Sat: 2g), Cholesterol: <5mg, Sodium: 1070mg, Carb: 63g, Fiber: 11g, Sugar: 6g, Protein: 12g ■

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Choose organic, unwaxed fruit, if possible. If you can’t find it, be sure to wash your citrus well before zesting. Use fine zest for seasoning. To create it, zest the fruit using a Microplane grater or similar metal rasp, which allows you to easily remove the zest in fine shavings without any of the bitter white pith. Rub fine zest with salt or sugar to bring out its flavors. When baking or using zest in a seasoning mixture, rubbing the zest releases more of its essential oils and perfumes

■

the sugar or salt so you can more easily spread the flavor around. Use thicker strips of zest for garnish. To create them, peel off the zest with a vegetable peeler, trying to peel it with as little white pith as possible. Cut the zest into thin strips to finish dishes or use in a cocktail. Leftover peels? Make a cleaner. Steep citrus peels in a jar filled with distilled white vinegar for 2 weeks, then strain and transfer to a spray bottle. Use as an all-purpose cleaner in the kitchen.

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C R E A MY L E M O N PA STA W I T H CHICKEN

Creamy Lemon Pasta with Chicken MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Inspired by Italy’s pasta al limone, this dish celebrates the beauty that happens when you pair lemon with cream. Adding cooked chicken makes the dish more substantial, though you absolutely could leave it out. When you make this, be sure to save some of the pasta cooking liquid before draining. It helps loosen and season the sauce. 1 pound spaghetti Fine sea salt, for pasta cooking water for the sauce

1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 garlic clove, minced ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream Zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice ½ teaspoon fine sea salt

2 ounces ParmigianoReggiano cheese, finely grated 2 cups cooked chicken (from half of a 2-pound rotisserie chicken) Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Bring a large pot of water

4. Add the spaghetti to the sauce

to a boil and season it generously with salt. 2. Add the pasta and cook until just barely al dente, about 9 minutes or depending on the package instructions. Scoop out and reserve about 1 cup of the cooking liquid, then drain the pasta. 3. Meanwhile, in another large saucepan or deep skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until it’s softened but not browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the heavy cream and lemon zest, ½ teaspoon fine sea salt, and bring to a bare simmer. Let the cream simmer for 1 to 2 minutes, until reduced slightly, but do not allow it to boil over.

and cook, tossing, so the noodles become coated with the sauce. While you toss the pasta, start sprinkling in the cheese. If the pasta starts to get a bit sticky, add a little of the pasta water as you continue to add the cheese. When all of the cheese is incorporated, add in the lemon juice and chicken and toss just to warm through, adding a little pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Season the pasta with several grinds of black pepper and serve immediately.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 610, Fat: 22g (Sat: 12g), Cholesterol: 90mg, Sodium: 410mg, Carb: 69g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 3g, Protein: 33g

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12/13/23 4:41 PM

G I N G E RY - O R A N G E S LOW - CO O K E D PORK SHOULDER

Gingery-Orange Slow-Cooked Pork Shoulder MAKES 6 SERVINGS

While this recipe takes time, it requires so little effort. You just rub the pork with an orange-scented dry brine mixture and let the flavors work their magic overnight. Then you slowly cook the pork in the oven before lacquering it with a honey-soy glaze. 1 (4-pound) bone-in pork shoulder (pork butt), preferably with a fat cap Zest from 1 orange ¼ cup sugar 1½ tablespoons fine sea salt 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 inch fresh peeled ginger, finely grated

2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon fresh orange juice 1½ teaspoons soy sauce Steamed rice, sliced scallions, and sliced cucumber, for serving

1. Using the tip of a sharp knife,

mixture all over and inside any crevices in the meat. Cover the pork and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours, turning the pork a few times. 4. Bring the pork to room temperature for 30 minutes, then heat the oven to 325°F. 5. Transfer the pork to a Dutch

score the fat on the pork shoulder in a crosshatch pattern. 2. In a large bowl, mix the orange zest in with the sugar and salt, rubbing them together with your fingers. Mix in the garlic and ginger. 3. Add the pork and rub the salt

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oven and add 1½ cups water. Cover the pork and cook in the oven for 1½ hours. Baste the pork with the juices in the pan and continue cooking, covered and basting every 30 minutes, until the meat pulls easily, about 1 to 2 hours longer (3 to 4 hours total). 6. Remove the pork from the oven and increase the oven temperature to 400°F. In a small bowl, mix the honey with the orange juice and soy sauce and brush half of it all over the pork. 7. Roast uncovered for about 5 minutes, then brush the pork again and roast for 5 to 7 minutes longer, until the top is deeply browned and crisp. 8. Let the roast stand for 5 minutes before serving. Use tongs to pull the meat to serve with white rice, scallions, and sliced

cucumber. (Spoon some of the seasoned juices on top of the meat, if you like.)

Cook’s Notes: n

For potluck prep, the roasted pork can stand at room temperature for at least 2 hours. If it’s done cooking before it’s ready to serve, you can hold it in a warm oven (about 200°F) for a few hours. If you have any leftovers, the pork would be a delicious addition to the Cauliflower Tacos with Creamy Lime Slaw (page 24).

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 450, Fat: 17g (Sat: 6g), Cholesterol: 180mg, Sodium: 1940mg, Carb: 15g, Fiber: 0g, Sugar: 14g, Protein: 53g

12/13/23 3:46 PM

Blood Orange Upside Down Cake MAKES 8 SERVINGS

This olive oil and ricotta cake bursts with juicy flavor because of the orange slices on top and orange zest in the cake. A little bit of elderflower liqueur heightens the floral note of the citrus. If you don’t have any on hand, however, feel free to substitute it with an orange liqueur or vanilla extract. for the topping

Unsalted butter, for the pan 7 small to medium blood oranges 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ cup sugar Pinch fine sea salt for the cake

1 cup sugar ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

2 ¾ ¾ 2

large eggs cup olive oil cup ricotta tablespoons elderflower liqueur or Grand Marnier or 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 1½ cups all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Butter

4. To make the cake, in a large

a 9-inch round baking pan, then line with a parchment round and butter the paper. Set aside. 2. For the topping, finely grate the zest from 2 of the oranges into a large bowl and set the zest aside for the cake. Using a sharp knife, remove the peel and bitter white pith from the oranges. Slice the oranges into rounds that are about ⅓ inch thick, removing the seeds and the center bitter white pith. Transfer the slices to a colander to drain for 15 minutes. 3. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the sugar and salt and stir constantly until some of the sugar melts. Spread out the mixture in the prepared pan. Arrange the citrus slices on top of the mixture in slightly overlapping concentric circles, trying to cover as much of the sugar mixture as possible.

bowl, rub the reserved orange zest with the sugar and salt until the sugar is slightly moistened. Whisk in the eggs followed by the olive oil, ricotta, and elderflower liqueur. Add the flour, baking powder, and baking soda, and mix well. 5. Pour the batter into the prepared pan on top of the sugar mixture and orange slices and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the cake is deeply golden, springs back when you touch it, and a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. 6. Transfer the pan to a rack and let cool for 15 minutes. Unmold the cake on the rack and let cool completely before serving.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 540, Fat: 26g (Sat: 6g), Cholesterol: 55mg, Sodium: 280mg, Carb: 71g, Fiber: 4g, Sugar: 49g, Protein: 7g

KRISTIN DONNELLY IS THE AUTHOR OF “MODERN POTLUCK” COOKBOOK AND THE SUBSTACK SUBSCRIPTION NEWSLETTER MISSION: DINNER, WHICH PROVIDES ONE EASY RECIPE PER WEEK (EACH USING ABOUT FIVE INGREDIENTS AND TAKING 30 MINUTES OR LESS TO PREPARE.) SHE IS ALSO THE COHOST OF EVERYTHING COOKBOOKS PODCAST. SHE LIVES IN NEW HOPE, PENNSYLVANIA, WITH HER FAMILY. YOU CAN FIND HER AT KRISTINDONNELLY.COM.

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12/13/23 3:47 PM

B LO O D O R A N G E U P S I D E D OW N CA K E

winter 2023

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12/13/23 3:47 PM

I M P O S S I B L E M E AT B A L L S U B

Kitchen Help T

here are many fabulous prepared food items and ready-made products that can give you a little assistance with a meal—you’ll still be making the delicious dish, but it’s just a little easier. Some great items for this step ahead include rotisserie chicken, frozen meatballs, puff pastry, pizza crust, riced veggies, bagged greens, frozen, chopped or spiralized fresh veggies, and more. Vegetable-based blends can also stand in for rice or potatoes, and as a gluten-free alternative to pasta. In this recipe roundup, you’ll find easy ideas to make the most of clever ingredients and enjoy a mostly homecooked meal that’s still delicious and nutritious. Who couldn’t use a little help in the kitchen? –mary subialka

PHOTO IMPOSSIBLE FOODS

A GREAT RANGE OF PRODUCTS CAN HELP YOU GET A STEP AHEAD ON PREP AND PUT DELICIOUS MEALS ON THE TABLE 30 real food

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12/12/23 2:00 PM

Impossible Meatball Sub MAKES 3 SERVINGS | RECIPE BY IMPOSSIBLE FOODS CHEF J. MICHAEL MELTON

Now you can make your own tasty meatball subs easily with Impossible Meatballs Made From Plants in a rich marinara sauce with melted cheese and herbs, tucked into a toasted hoagie roll. 1 (14-ounce) package Impossible Meatballs Made From Plants, Homestyle or Italian ½ cup diced onion 5 cloves garlic, minced and divided 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 (28-ounce) can San Marzano tomatoes, diced 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, plus 3 sprigs 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil Salt and pepper, to taste 3 hoagie rolls 5 tablespoons butter or plant-based butter 6 slices provolone or plant-based cheese 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley

PHOTOS (FROM ABOVE) BEEF, IT’S WHAT’S FOR DINNER; BOBOLI

1. Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onions and three cloves of the minced garlic and cook until soft. Add tomatoes and bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer for about 30 minutes. Add the fresh oregano, basil, and 1 tablespoon of chopped thyme and continue to cook about 1 minute, and then season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Add frozen Impossible Meatballs to the sauce, and simmer in the sauce until warmed through, about 10 to 12 minutes. (Alternatively, use a large jar of your favorite store-bought marinara sauce in place of the homemade sauce.) 2. While the meatballs are simmering in the marinara sauce, heat the oven to 425°F. Prepare a baking dish or sheet pan for the hoagie rolls. In a small pan over low heat, add the butter, 2 cloves of minced garlic, and 3 sprigs of thyme, and allow ingredients to melt together. Let steep for a few minutes and remove from heat. Brush on hoagie rolls. Bake the rolls in the oven for 3 to 5 minutes, or until bread begins to toast. Remove from oven. 3. Top lightly toasted hoagies with 4 to 5 meatballs each and additional sauce. Top with 2 cheese slices per hoagie, and put back in the oven until cheese is melted, brown, and bubbly. Garnish with chopped fresh parsley and serve.

Nutrition (per serving with dairy provolone): Calories: 1050, Fat: 68g (Sat: 29g), Cholesterol: 90mg, Sodium: 1730mg, Carb: 69g, Fiber: 5g, Sugar: 16g, Protein: 43g

Nutrition (per serving with vegan provolone and margarine): Calories: 990, Fat: 63g (Sat: 15g), Cholesterol: 0mg, Sodium: 1560mg, Carb: 77g, Fiber: 5g, Sugar: 16g, Protein: 31g

I TA L I A N B E E F A N D C H E E S E CA L ZO N E

Italian Beef and Cheese Calzone MAKES 4 SERVINGS | RECIPE COURTESY BEEF, IT’S WHAT’S FOR DINNER

Traditional Italian flavors add a kick to ground beef before it’s wrapped up in convenient refrigerated pizza dough. This is sure to please all ages. 1 pound ground beef (93% lean or leaner) ½ cup chopped green bell pepper 1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes with onions, drained ½ teaspoon dried oregano 1 cup shredded Italian cheese blend 1 tablespoon cornmeal 1 package (13.8 ounces) refrigerated pizza crust dough

1. Heat oven to 400°F. Heat large nonstick skillet over medium heat until hot. Add ground beef and bell pepper and cook 8 to 10 minutes, breaking into 3/4-inch

crumbles and stirring occasionally. Pour off drippings. Stir in tomatoes and oregano and continue cooking 5 to 7 minutes or until liquid has evaporated. Remove from heat and stir in cheese. Set aside. 2. Sprinkle cornmeal evenly over rimmed baking sheet. Unroll pizza dough lengthwise on baking sheet, straightening edges of dough if necessary. Spoon beef filling over long half of dough, leaving a 1-inch border on 3 sides. Gently lift and pull top half of dough over filling to enclose and pinch dough edges to seal. 3. Bake in 400°F oven 15 to 20 minutes or until crust is golden brown. Cool 5 minutes. Cut crosswise into 8 slices.

Cook’s Note: For easy cleanup, line baking sheet with parchment paper. Sprinkle with cornmeal and proceed as directed above.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 543, Fat: 18g (Sat: 8g), Cholesterol: 104mg, Sodium: 1064mg, Carb: 56g, Fiber: 1g, Sugar: 10g, Protein: 41g

Three-Cheese and Pepperoni Pizza

It’s easy to make pizza at home with a ready-made crust, such as the 12-inch Boboli thin crust. Heat oven to 450°F. In a small bowl, combine 2 tablespoons olive oil and 2 teaspoons dried Italian seasoning. Brush the oil and herb mixture around the outer edge of the crust. Spread 1 (5-ounce) package pizza sauce onto crust, leaving a 1-inch border around the crust. Arrange 2 cups shredded Italian 3-cheese blend and 2 ounces sliced pepperoni on top of the sauce, and bake for 10 to 12 minutes until cheese is bubbly and crust is golden brown.

winter 2024

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12/13/23 3:51 PM

CHICKEN ALFREDO “RICE” BAKE

EG G A N D C H O R I ZO TA RTS

Egg and Chorizo Tarts MAKES 4 SERVINGS RECIPE COURTESY PEPPERIDGE FARM

The smoky flavor of chorizo sausage perfectly accents the eggs and cheese on these delectable puff pastry tarts.

1. Thaw the pastry sheet at room temperature for 40 minutes or until it’s easy to handle. 2. Heat the oven to 400°F. Unfold the pastry sheet on a lightly floured surface. Cut the pastry sheet into 4 (about 5-inch) squares. Place the pastry squares on a baking sheet. Prick the pastry squares with a fork. 3. Bake 10 minutes or until the pastries are golden. Using a metal spatula, press down the centers of the hot pastries to make an indentation. Spoon 3 tablespoons cheese in the center of each pastry. Top each with 3 (or 4 thinner, if desired) slices of chorizo. Carefully crack 1 egg onto the center of each pastry. 3. Bake for 10 minutes or until the eggs are softly set. Sprinkle with the parsley, if desired.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 400, Fat: 26g (Sat: 12g), Cholesterol: 205mg, Sodium: 570mg, Carb: 21g, Fiber: <1g, Sugar: <1g, Protein: 18g

Chicken Alfredo “Rice” Bake MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS RECIPE COURTESY GREEN GIANT

This creamy, cheesy casserole is filled with veggies and also uses rotisserie chicken. 1 cup 2% or whole milk 4 ounces regular or light cream cheese, room temperature ¾ cup grated Parmesan, divided 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, optional 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning 2 (10-ounce) packages Green Giant Riced Veggie Blends–Rainbow Creamy Alfredo, microwaved according to package instructions 3 cups cubed rotisserie chicken 1 (12- to 14-ounce) can or jar quartered artichoke hearts, roughly chopped 1 (9-ounce) package Green Giant Simply Steam Chopped Spinach, thawed and squeezed dry

½ cup drained, chopped sun-dried tomatoes 1½ cups Italian blend shredded cheese

1. Heat oven to 350°F. Spray a 2-quart casserole pan with cooking spray. 2. Heat milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add cream cheese and whisk until melted. 3. Add ¼ cup Parmesan, garlic powder, salt, pepper, red pepper flakes (if using), and Italian seasoning and heat until sauce is smooth and slightly thickened. Remove from heat. 4. In a large bowl combine cooked Green Giant Creamy Alfredo, chicken, artichoke hearts, spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, and Italian blend cheese. 5. Add milk/cheese mixture and stir to combine. 6. Place in casserole and top with remaining ½ cup Parmesan. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes until melty, golden, and bubbling.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 330, Fat: 19g (Sat: 9g), Cholesterol: 95mg, Sodium: 1420mg, Carb: 13g, Fiber: 4g, Sugar: 4g, Protein: 28g

PHOTOS (FROM LEFT) ADOBE/DA XIAO PRODUCTIONS, GREEN GIANT OPPOSITE (FROM LEFT) NICOLE LEGGIO, GREEN GIANT

1 sheet (½ of a 17.3-ounce package) Pepperidge Farm Puff Pastry, thawed ¾ cup Italian blend shredded cheese 12 ¼-inch-thick slices (about 4 ounces) chorizo sausage or other smoked sausage 4 eggs Chopped fresh Italian parsley, for garnish

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12/13/23 3:59 PM

White Chicken Chili MAKES 5 SERVINGS | RECIPE BY LAUREN ALLEN, TASTESBETTERFROMSCRATCH.COM

2. Add chicken broth, green chilies, cumin, This creamy chili is so easy it can be made on the stovetop, in the slow cooker, or the instant pot. You can use leftover or rotisserie chicken, making this a fast weeknight meal. 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 small yellow onion, chopped (about ½ cup) 2 garlic cloves, finely minced (or 1½ teaspoons garlic powder) 2½ cups low-sodium chicken broth 2 (4-ounce) cans diced green chilies 1½ teaspoons ground cumin ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon paprika Juice from ½ small lime Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 (15-ounce) cans great northern beans, drained and rinsed 1 cup sour cream or plain Greek yogurt 1 cup corn (frozen or fresh) 2 heaping cups cooked chicken, shredded (rotisserie or leftover chicken) Fresh cilantro, shredded cheese, tortilla chips, green onions, avocado, for toppings (optional)

1. Heat olive oil in a large (5-6 quart) pot over medium-high heat. Add onion and sauté until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 30 seconds.

cayenne, paprika, oregano, lime juice, and season with salt and pepper to taste. 3. Drain and rinse beans in a strainer. Measure out a big ladleful of the beans and add to a food processor with a splash of broth from the soup. Purée until smooth (this step is optional but helps to yield the creamy and thick texture we want from this chili). 4. Add puréed beans, whole beans, and corn to the soup pot. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for 15 to 30 minutes. 5. Remove from heat and stir in sour cream and cooked chicken. 6. Serve garnished with cilantro, shredded cheese, avocado slices, and tortilla chips, if desired.

Cook’s Notes Store chili in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days after making. Reheat in the microwave or on the stovetop. ■ To freeze: Cook chili up to step 5. Allow to cool and then freeze for up to 3 months (freeze the cooked chicken separately). To reheat, thaw in the refrigerator overnight and simmer on the stovetop until warm (or warm from frozen). Then stir in cooked chicken and sour cream. (The sour cream doesn’t freeze well and may separate upon reheating.)

PA R M E S A N C H I C K E N LETTUCE WRAPS

■

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 400, Fat: 16g (Sat: 6g), Cholesterol: 70mg, Sodium: 510mg, Carb: 38g, Fiber: 8g, Sugar: 6g, Protein: 27g

WHITE CHICKEN CHILI

Parmesan Chicken Lettuce Wraps MAKES 4 SERVINGS RECIPE COURTESY GREEN GIANT

An Italian spin on lettuce wraps will soon be a family favorite. Pile high with the toppings of your choice. 1 pound ground chicken or turkey 1 (10-ounce) package Green Giant Riced Veggies Cauliflower, thawed and drained 1 small onion, chopped 1 tablespoon Mrs. Dash Original Blend 1 medium tomato, chopped 1 (5-ounce) package baby spinach ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese Boston lettuce Basil and pine nuts for topping (optional)

1. Cook chicken, Green Giant Riced Veggies Cauliflower, onion, and Mrs. Dash Original Blend in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and 8 minutes or until chicken is thoroughly cooked. 2. Stir in tomato and spinach and cook 2 minutes or until spinach is wilted. 3. Stir in Parmesan cheese. Serve chicken mixture in lettuce leaves. Sprinkle with fresh chopped basil and pine nuts. Sprinkle with additional Mrs. Dash, if desired.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 170, Fat: 8g (Sat: 3.5g), Cholesterol: 65mg, Sodium: 210mg, Carb: 9g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 4g, Protein: 21g winter 2024

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12/13/23 4:01 PM

Splash of flavor

Cooking with wine, beer, or spirits adds nuanced layers of flavor to dishes

dding a splash of wine to a pan can make a quick sauce for meat or fish, spirits can contribute a lift of flavor to wings or pasta, and beer can bring warm notes to dishes from gooey grilled cheese to tacos. These ingredients also contribute some balanced acidity and leave behind rich layers of flavor. For cooking, use a wine, beer,

or spirit you would enjoy drinking. You don’t want to use a low-quality product, but it’s also not the time to bring out a prized vintage. With this recipe roundup, you’ll find that combining dinner and drinks is an easy way to give your foods an extra touch of deliciousness and elevate even an everyday dish to something special. –mary subialka

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12/13/23 4:13 PM

BOURBON CHICKEN WINGS WITH M A K E R ' S M A R K B B Q S AU C E

Maker’s Mark BBQ Sauce

Classic and delicious bourbon barbecue sauce recipe—made easy! Infuse Maker’s Mark bourbon into your favorite barbecue sauce for notes of caramel and sweetness. Make it to your own taste. Some suggested ingredients include yellow mustard, apple cider vinegar, red chili flakes, caramelized onions, roasted garlic, brown sugar, and crispy cooked bacon. Maker’s Mark Go-To Ingredients: ¼ cup apple cider vinegar, 2 big pinches red chili flakes, and 1⁄3 cup yellow mustard.

1. Add 1 cup of your favorite ready-made barbecue sauce to a bowl. Since you will be adding to the sauce, use about half as much as you think you will need. 2. Add 2 shots of Maker’s Mark Bourbon and whisk well. 3. Add ingredients of your choosing until you have something you like. Store covered in the fridge for up to 1 week. bourbon sweet chili sauce

3 ounces (2 shots) Maker’s Mark Bourbon 1 cup prepared sweet chili sauce 1 tablespoon Sriracha chili sauce

1. Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix until fully incorporated. 2. Toss in a large bowl with wings immediately after removing wings from the oven for best results.

Bourbon Chicken Wings

Ky white sauce

3 3⁄4 2 1

PHOTOS ADOBE (2), UNSPLASH/MALIK SKYDSGAARD

MAKES 30 | RECIPE COURTESY MAKER’S MARK

ounces (2 shots) Maker’s Mark Bourbon cup mayonnaise tablespoons cracked black pepper tablespoon apple cider vinegar Salt, to taste

Bourbon is the secret ingredient for taking chicken wings to the next level. And what’s better than crispy wings slathered in your favorite, homemade sauce? Having three bold, Maker’s Mark bourbon-infused sauce options to slather them in. Sticky, sweet, and spicy, this upgraded sports-bar favorite is designed to please a crowd (or just a couple of heavy hitters).

1. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. 2. Toss with wings immediately after removing from the oven.

for the wings

Cook’s Notes:

30 3 2 2 2 2

high-quality chicken wings ounces (2 shots) Maker’s Mark Bourbon tablespoons kosher salt tablespoons dark brown sugar tablespoons Tabasco hot sauce garlic cloves, crushed

1. Combine all ingredients in a large container and mix well. Let sit covered in the fridge for at least 30 minutes or up to 3 hours for best results. 2. Heat the oven to 425°F and line a baking sheet with foil or parchment paper. Spray with nonstick spray to make cleanup even easier. 3. Place the chicken wings on the prepared tray barely touching and not stacked. If they are piled on each other, it will cause the wings to steam, not caramelize. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until cooked through. 4. As soon as you remove wings from the oven, toss with your homemade Maker’s Mark BBQ sauce or one of the wing sauces at right. To create a glaze, put sauced wings back in the oven to finish for 3 to 5 minutes and serve.

Spread your wings: The sauces in this recipe contain full-strength Maker’s. For a family-friendly version, first simmer the bourbon until it’s reduced to a syrupy texture and let cool. This method will burn off alcohol. ■ Double duty: Bourbon breaks down enzymes in meat, so your marinade will tenderize while also adding flavor. Be careful using higher proof spirits, like Cask Strength, which work quicker and can toughen meat. ■ Best practices: A good habit to get into is thoroughly drying meat before seasoning it. And, let it come to room temperature before cooking for a crispy outside and more evenly cooked inside. Wings tend to be forgiving, though. ■ Getting saucy: To soften the punch of raw onion and garlic when making sauces, combine both with canola oil in a foil pack. Bake at 350°F until soft and aromatic. Let cool and add to your sauce as needed. ■

Nutrition (per wing, with Maker’s Mark BBQ Sauce): Calories: 100, Fat: 4g (Sat: 1g), Cholesterol: 25mg, Sodium: 590mg, Carb: 5g, Fiber: 0g, Sugar: <1g, Protein: 6g winter 2024

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12/13/23 4:13 PM

Classic Beef Bourguignonne MAKES 8 SERVINGS | RECIPE COURTESY BEEF, IT’S WHAT’S FOR DINNER

A classic never goes out of style. The same is true with this traditional stew made with beef shoulder roast, bacon, red wine, and lots of hearty vegetables. 4 slices bacon, chopped (about 4 ounces) 1 boneless beef shoulder roast (21/2 to 31/2 pounds) ¼ cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper ½ cup beef broth 2 cups Burgundy or other dry red wine 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 tablespoon minced garlic 2 teaspoons dried marjoram leaves 8 ounces (about 1¾ cups) baby carrots 8 ounces fresh pearl onions, peeled or frozen pearl onions 8 ounces mushrooms, cut in half if large Chopped fresh parsley leaves (optional)

1. Cook bacon in stockpot over medium heat

“I Enjoy cooking with wine, sometimes i even put it in the F ood i’m cooking.” –julia child

Cook’s Note: The dark brown crust that forms on the bottom of the stockpot during step 2 dissolves when liquid is added and gives the stew a rich flavor.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 328, Fat: 9g (Sat: 3g), Cholesterol: 89mg, Sodium: 661mg, Carb: 16g, Fiber: 3g, Protein: 32g

PHOTO BEEF, IT'S WHAT'S FOR DINNER

C L A S S I C B E E F B O U RG U I G N O N N E

8 to 10 minutes or until crisp, stirring frequently. Remove with slotted spoon to paper towellined plate. Set aside. Reserve drippings. 2. Meanwhile, cut beef into 1-inch pieces. Lightly coat beef with flour. Heat 2 tablespoons reserved bacon drippings in same stockpot over medium heat until hot. Brown half the beef and remove from stockpot. Repeat with remaining beef, adding bacon drippings or oil as needed. Remove beef from stockpot and season with salt and pepper. Pour off drippings. 3. Add broth to stockpot. Cook and stir 1 to 2 minutes or until browned bits attached to stockpot are dissolved. Stir in wine, tomato paste, garlic, and marjoram. Return beef and bacon to stockpot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover tightly, and simmer 1 hour. 4. Add carrots, onions, and mushrooms to stockpot, and stir until all vegetables are coated with sauce. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, 30 minutes or until beef and vegetables are fork tender. 5. Remove from heat. Skim fat from cooking liquid, if necessary. Garnish with parsley, if desired.

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12/13/23 4:14 PM

C R E A MY A RT I C H O K E S O U P

Creamy Artichoke Soup MAKES 4 SERVINGS | RECIPE BY MEG VAN DER KRUIK COURTESY CALIFORNIA WINES

PHOTO CALIFORNIA WINES

Transport your tastebuds to the California Central Coast with this easy artichoke hearts recipe inspired by the Creamy Artichoke Soup at the worldfamous Shadowbrook Restaurant in Santa Cruz, California. This soup is rich and decadent with a luxurious mouthfeel, but it is quite possibly one of the easiest soup recipes that you will ever cook at home. It pairs beautifully with a glass of California Sauvignon Blanc or California Pinot Gris. 2 (14-ounce) cans artichoke hearts packed in water, drained 2 tablespoons California extra-virgin olive oil 2 medium-sized Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces, about ¾ pound 4 shallots, halved 4 garlic cloves, halved ½ tablespoon coarse kosher salt 1 cup Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Gris 4 cups vegetable broth ½ cup grated Parmesan, for garnish, plus Parmesan rind 1 bay leaf 10 thyme sprigs 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns ½ cup heavy cream for serving

¼ cup sour cream 2 teaspoons milk 1 tablespoon minced flat leaf parsley

1. In a large saucepan, heat the extra-virgin olive oil until shimmering. Add the wine and stir, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Cook until nearly evaporated, about 5 minutes. 2. Pat the artichoke pieces dry with a paper towel. Add them to the saucepan along with the potatoes, shallots, and garlic, and season liberally with salt. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned and tender, about 15 minutes. If the vegetables begin to catch on the bottom of the pan, you can drizzle in 1 tablespoon water at a time and scrape the pan gently with a wooden spoon to loosen everything up. 3. Add the wine and stir, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Cook until nearly evaporated, about 5 minutes. 4. Lay cheesecloth flat and place the bay leaf, thyme, and peppercorns on top. Gather the edges of the cheesecloth into a bundle and tie with kitchen twine. 5. Add the vegetable stock, Parmesan rind, and cheesecloth bundle to the pot and bring to a boil. Cover partially and cook over moderately low heat until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Discard the thyme bundle and Parmesan rind. 6. Working in batches, purée the soup until smooth. Return it to the saucepan. Add the heavy cream and season with salt. Keep the soup warm. 7. To serve: In a small bowl, mix together the sour cream and milk. Ladle the soup into bowls and top with grated Parmesan cheese, a drizzle of thinned sour cream, and sprinkle with parsley.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 410, Fat: 21g (Sat: 10g), Cholesterol: 45mg, Sodium: 2130mg (1580mg with low sodium broth), Carb: 40g, Fiber: 8g, Sugar: 5g, Protein: 11g winter 2024

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12/13/23 4:15 PM

Steak au Poivre MAKES 4 SERVINGS RECIPE COURTESY CALIFORNIA WINES

This hearty French classic is the perfect dish for a cold winter night. Peppercorn-crusted beef tenderloin is grilled or pan-seared to perfection and topped with a creamy peppercorn sauce. It pairs well with California Cabernet Sauvignon and California Merlot. 3 tablespoons cracked black pepper, divided 2 teaspoons sea salt, divided 4 (4-6 ounce) beef tenderloin steaks ¼ cup (4 tablespoons) butter ½ cup diced white or Spanish onion 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon green peppercorns ¼ cup chopped pistachios 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 2 ounces (¼ cup) bold California red wine 2 cups 35% heavy cream 4 fresh sprigs of thyme, for garnish 2 tablespoons crushed pistachios, for garnish

a large skillet. 2. In a small bowl add 2 tablespoons of the cracked black pepper and 1 teaspoon sea salt. Rub each of the steaks into this mixture to lightly coat the outside of the meat. 3. Cook steaks on the grill or skillet for about 6 minutes each side or until internal temperature is around 135°F. Let sit for 10 minutes. It will continue to cook a little more to bring it to a nice medium around 145°F, or cook to your desired likeness. 4. In a saucepan melt the butter. Once butter is melted, add onions, garlic, and green peppercorns and cook over medium heat until onions and garlic have lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. 5. Add the red wine and deglaze the pan by stirring and lifting any ingredients off the bottom of the pan. Cook for another 2 to 3 minutes or until most of the alcohol has evaporated. 6. Add fresh thyme, remaining cracked black pepper, sea salt, chopped pistachios, and heavy cream. Cook for another 3 to 5 minutes or until it slightly thickens to sauce consistency. 7. Spoon a bit of sauce onto each plate and place steak on top. Garnish with a thyme sprig. Serve with potatoes, green beans, or another favorite side.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 700, Fat: 63g ST E A K AU P O I V R E

(Sat: 37g), Cholesterol: 210mg, Sodium: 1110mg, Carb: 9g, Fiber: 1g, Sugar: 5g, Protein: 24g

PHOTO ADOBE/FOMAA

1. Heat your grill to medium-high or gather

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for the chicken marinade

4 2 5 3 2 1

(6- to 8-ounce) boneless skinless chicken breasts cups buttermilk cloves garlic, thinly sliced shallots, thinly sliced, divided sprigs tarragon or Italian parsley, roughly chopped lemon, thinly sliced, divided

for the breading

2 cups white rice flour 1 cup almond flour ½ cup all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons cornstarch 1 teaspoon baking powder Black pepper, to taste Vegetable oil, for frying for the caper–brown butter sauce

Reserved shallots ¼ cup Chardonnay ½ cup (1 stick) butter 1 (2-ounce) jar capers, drained Reserved lemon slices 2 tablespoons heavy cream (optional) Herbs, grated Parmesan, and lemon slices, for garnish (optional) Salt, to taste Arugula salad, to serve

1. Cut each chicken breast in half horizontally to make two thinner fillets. 2. For the marinade: In a nonreactive bowl, combine buttermilk, garlic,

B U T T E R M I L K C H I C K E N P I CCATA W I T H CA P E R - B ROW N B U T T E R S AU C E

Buttermilk Chicken Piccata with Caper–Brown Butter Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS | RECIPE BY TRAVIS WESTROPE, CHEF WITH STAG’S

PHOTO JOHN VALLS

LEAP WINE CELLARS, FROM “OREGON WINE + FOOD: THE COOKBOOK” *

A bath in buttermilk keeps these breaded chicken cutlets incredibly juicy, while the pan sauce of nutty browned butter, briny capers, and tart lemon makes them downright irresistible. Erath’s Willakia Vineyard Chardonnay offers enough bright, citrusy acidity to cut through the richness and echo the dish’s lemony vibe, with notes of hazelnut tying in those browned butter flavors.

half the shallots, tarragon (or Italian parsley), and half the lemon slices. 3. Add chicken and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight. 4. Heat oven to 400ºF. Set a rack on a baking sheet and place nearby. Drain chicken, discarding the marinade. 5. For the breading: Combine all the breading ingredients in a medium bowl. 6. Toss chicken, 1 piece at a time, in the flour mixture to thoroughly coat. Shake off excess, then place on rack. 7. Heat ½ inch of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat to a temperature of 350ºF. Working in batches, carefully add chicken in a single layer. Fry for 3 minutes, or until golden brown at the edges. Turn over and cook about 1½ minutes more. Transfer to a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining chicken. 8. Place chicken in the oven and bake for 10 to 12 minutes. 9. Meanwhile, make the Caper–Brown Butter Sauce: Drain all but 1 tablespoon oil from the skillet. Add remaining sliced shallots and sauté over medium heat for 2 minutes, or until beginning to brown. Add Chardonnay, stirring to scrape up the browned bits, and cook until nearly evaporated. 10. Add butter and increase heat to high. Allow white milk solids of butter to settle to the bottom of the pan and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until golden brown. Add capers, lemon slices, and heavy cream, if using. Remove from heat. 11. Divide chicken among plates and spoon sauce on top. Garnish with herbs, Parmesan, and/or more lemon slices, if desired. Season with salt to taste and serve with salad.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 940, Fat: 46g (Sat: 18g), Cholesterol: 195mg, Sodium: 1710mg, Carb: 78g, Fiber: 5g, Sugar: 5g, Protein: 53g

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12/13/23 4:20 PM

P E N N E A L L A VO D K A

Penne alla Vodka MAKES 4 SERVINGS | RECIPE BY LAUREN ALLEN, TASTESBETTERFROMSCRATCH.COM

It’s easy to make restaurant-quality Penne alla Vodka right at home, with a creamy homemade vodka sauce, topped with Parmesan cheese and fresh basil. 1 2 1 3 ¼ ½ 1 1 ¾

tablespoon olive oil (high-quality olive oil is best) tablespoons butter yellow onion, diced cloves garlic, minced teaspoon red pepper flakes cup vodka (28-ounce) can whole peeled plum tomatoes , undrained teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon dried basil Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 12 ounces penne pasta, or any bite-size pasta ½ cup heavy cream 1⁄3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving Fresh basil, for garnish

1. Add olive oil and butter to a large pot over medium-low heat. Once hot, add onion and cook for several minutes until translucent. Add garlic and crushed red pepper and cook for 30 seconds. Add vodka and cook until reduced by half. 2. Use (clean) hands to crush the whole tomatoes right into the pot, and add the rest of the juice from the can. Add dried oregano and basil. Reduce heat to medium low and cook, partially covered, for 30 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, cook penne pasta according to package instructions, until al dente. Drain, rinse, and set aside. 4. Use a blender or food processor to purée the sauce until smooth. 5. Reduce pot to low heat. Stir in cream and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Cook 10 more minutes. 6. Stir in cooked pasta and Parmesan cheese. 7. Serve garnished with fresh chopped basil and extra Parmesan cheese and crushed red pepper flakes, if desired. Store any leftovers in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Alcohol content diminishes with cooking time, this study revealed. After liquor has been poured on foods and then set alight—flambéd—approximately 75% of the alcohol remains after the flames have died down. After being added to food that is then baked or simmered for 15 minutes, 40% of the alcohol will be retained. After cooking for 1 hour, about 25% will remain. The lowest percentage of alcohol left after cooking—around 5%—is in foods that are cooked at least 2 hours. The amount of alcohol in an individual serving will be quite low, but keep these highlights in mind if alcohol is a concern to you or your dinner companions.

Cook’s Notes: Add Meat: Chicken, prosciutto, bacon, shrimp, or pancetta would all make delicious additions. Add meat (except for shrimp) in step 1, when sautéing the garlic. Shrimp should be added at the very end, since it cooks so quickly. ■ Vegan or dairy-free: Substitute additional oil for the butter, omit the Parmesan cheese, and substitute a vegan milk (almond, soy, etc.) and note that the sauce will be thinner. ■ You can make the sauce ahead, but don’t add the pasta. Store the sauce and cooked pasta separately in the fridge. Add the sauce to a saucepan to rewarm and then stir in the pasta. ■ To freeze: Make the sauce through step 4 before adding the cream or pasta. Allow the sauce to cool and then freeze for up to 2 months. Thaw in the fridge overnight, or over low heat in a saucepan. Once warm in saucepan, add cream, cooked pasta, and cheese. You could freeze the fully assembled dish as well, just know that upon reheating the sauce may have a slightly different texture due to the cream, and it won’t be quite as saucy because of the noodles soaking up some of the sauce. ■

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 571, Fat: 18g (Sat: 9g), Cholesterol: 48mg, Sodium: 148mg, Carb: 68g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 4g, Protein: 15g

PHOTO LAURA ALLEN

Is there still alcohol in cooked dishes? The amount of alcohol remaining after cooking ranges from 5 to 85%, according to a study from the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Nutrient Data Laboratory. The variations aren’t just dependent on how long you keep the temperature above alcohol’s boiling point of 173°F. The size of the cooking vessel affects the alcohol-retention rate; the smaller the vessel, the more alcohol is retained due to the reduced surface area for evaporation.

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B E E R - S OA K E D G R I L L E D C H E E S E

Slow Cooker Beer Chicken Tacos MAKES 6 SERVINGS | RECIPE BY ALICIA UNDERLEE NELSON COURTESY CRAFT BEER ASSOCIATION

These chicken tacos are easy to make (10 minutes of prep time and 4 hours in the slow cooker is all you need), but they look and taste like you spent all day in the kitchen. The leftovers are delicious the next day, too. 2 pounds trimmed, skinless chicken tenderloins 1 medium white or yellow onion ¾ cup beer (a refreshing, Mexican-style lager works well) 2 tablespoons chili powder 1 tablespoon cumin 1 tablespoon garlic powder 2 (10-ounce) cans diced tomatoes with green chilies 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes 2 (6-ounce) cans tomato paste Lime wedges, for serving, to taste

1. Place chicken in the slow cooker. 2. Peel and dice the onion, then add it to the slow cooker. 3. Pour the beer into a liquid measuring cup or small bowl and stir in chili powder, cumin, and garlic powder. 4. Cover chicken and onion mixture with beer and spice mix. 5. Open and lightly drain excess liquid from the tomatoes. (Some remaining liquid is fine.) Add them to the slow cooker. 6. Stir so that everything in the pot is evenly covered by liquid. 7. Cook on high for 4 hours or low for 8 hours, stirring about halfway through. Shred the chicken with forks 30 minutes before serving. 8. Add tomato paste and stir well. 9. Continue to cook on low so that the chicken can absorb tomato paste and additional juices.

Nutrition (per 2-taco serving): Calories: 230, Fat: 2.5g (Sat: 0g), Cholesterol: 65mg, Sodium: 1000mg, Carb: 22g, Fiber: 5g, Sugar: 12g, Protein: 30g

S L OW CO O K E R B E E R C H I C K E N TACO S

Beer-Soaked Grilled Cheese MAKES 4 | RECIPE COURTESY CRAFT BEER ASSOCIATION

Brooklyn Brew Shop has brought the never-fail concept of cheese and beer pairing to life with a brown ale-soaked grilled cheese sandwich. for the beer batter

2 1 1/8 ½ ¼

eggs cup nutty brown ale cup flour teaspoon salt teaspoon chili powder

for the sandwiches

1 loaf sourdough bread, cut into 8 (½-inch) slices 1 block mild or sharp cheddar cheese, sliced 2 tablespoons butter, plus more if needed Optional toppings: bacon, sliced ham, prosciutto, avocado

PHOTOS ADOBE STOCK (2)

1. In a large shallow bowl, whisk eggs, beer, flour, salt, and chili powder. Dunk 1 slice of bread into the batter on both sides, giving it a second to fully absorb the batter. Let the excess batter drain back into the bowl. 2. Move to another plate and top with cheese and additional toppings, if desired. 3. Repeat with another slice of bread to complete the sandwich. 4. In a large skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Place the sandwich in the middle and let it cook on each side 3 to 4 minutes, until it reaches a crispy golden brown and a gooey cheese middle. Repeat for all sandwiches. Plate, and add garnishes, if desired.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 480, Fat: 28g (Sat: 15g), Cholesterol: 155mg, Sodium: 1010mg, Carb: 31g, Fiber: 1g, Sugar: 4g, Protein: 22g winter 2024

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12/13/23 4:16 PM

C H O CO L AT E G A N AC H E TA RT

Warm your soul with delicious and indulgent desserts this winter

PHOTO CLARE WINFELD

recipes by victoria glass and dunja gulin

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= VEGAN

hocolate is never out of season. And whether you’re whipping up an after-dinner treat for family or making a date-night surprise, chocolate desserts are a win anytime. Not only is chocolate delicious, but cocoa products can also help lower blood pressure and alleviate stress. Food writer and recipe developer Victoria Glass explains this in her book “Deliciously Chocolatey Cakes & Bakes: 100 Indulgent Recipes for When You Need a Treat,” which showcases cocoa-rich recipes ranging from simple and kid-friendly to sophisticated. Chocolate can also be a versatile ingredient for vegan treats. When cookbook author Dunja Gulin stopped eating animal products, she discovered that finding a tasty vegan dessert was nearly impossible. With a sweet tooth and a dream, Gulin took matters into her own hands. In her book, “Vegan Baking,” she features more than 50 recipes for cakes, cookies, and other baked goods that are free of animal products, using cocoa powder, cacao nibs, and vegan chocolate to open a world of vegan-friendly dessert possibilities that sacrifice little to nothing in terms of taste. Here, you’ll find a sampling of chocolate goodies from these books that are sure to keep your body and mind happy all winter long. –macy harder

Chocolate Ganache Tart MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Ganache is usually made with cream, but I use soft tofu instead. The result is smooth and rich, making a great tart filling. I created this recipe with serious chocoholics in mind, adding chocolate mousse on top of the ganache. –dunja gulin for the sweet pie dough

1½ ½ 1½ ¼ 1

cups all-purpose flour cup fine cornmeal teaspoons baking powder teaspoon salt cup non-hydrogenated margarine, chilled ¼ cup brown rice or agave syrup Grated zest of ½ lemon ¼ cup ice-cold water

for the ganache

1 pound and 6 ounces plain, soft tofu 3 cups finely chopped vegan dark/bittersweet chocolate (70% cocoa) Grated zest of 2½ lemons

Brown rice syrup or other sweetener, to taste Nondairy milk or cream, if needed for the mousse

2 cups chocolate soy or oat milk 1¼ cups finely chopped vegan dark/bittersweet chocolate (70% cocoa) 1⁄3 cup brown rice syrup 7 tablespoons cornstarch special equipment:

11-inch springform cake pan or loose-based tart pan

1. Put the flour, cornmeal, salt, and baking powder in a food processor and pulse to mix. Add the margarine and pulse 6 to 8 times until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add the syrup and lemon zest and pulse again a couple of times. Add ice-cold water 1 tablespoon at a time, pulsing until the mixture just begins to clump together. If you pinch some of the crumbly dough and it holds together, it’s ready. If it doesn’t, add a little more water and pulse again. Do not add too much water otherwise it will make the dough tough. 2. Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface. Knead it

just enough to form a ball but do not over-knead it. Shape it into a disc, wrap it in plastic wrap, and refrigerate it for at least 1 hour, and up to 2 days. If you’re in a hurry, you can chill the dough in the freezer for 15 minutes. If refrigerated, allow the dough to rest at room temperature for 5 to 10 minutes before rolling it out. 3. For the ganache, blanch the tofu in boiling water for 2 minutes. Meanwhile, melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water. Do not let the base of the bowl touch the water. Put the blanched tofu, melted chocolate, and lemon zest in food processor. Blend until smooth. Taste and if it’s not sweet enough, blend in syrup to taste; if too thick, add a little milk or cream while blending. 4. Heat the oven to 350°F. 5. Take the dough out of the fridge. Place it between 2 sheets of parchment paper and use a rolling pin to roll the dough out into a circle about 13 inches in diameter. Loosely roll the dough circle around the rolling pin and unroll it over the tart pan. Neatly line the pan with the dough and trim off any excess from the edges with a pastry wheel or your fingers. Patch up any holes with dough off-cuts. Prick the base all over with a fork and bake in the preheated oven for 8 to 10 minutes. Leave the oven on. 6. Remove the pan from the oven and pour the ganache into the tart crust. Spread level with a spatula. Put back in the oven and bake for 15 minutes or until the edges turn lightly golden. Allow to cool completely in the pan. 7. For the mousse, heat the chocolate milk in a saucepan, then add the chocolate and syrup and whisk until the chocolate has melted. Mix the cornstarch into 5 to 6 tablespoons water. Slowly add this to the saucepan over low heat, whisking vigorously. Keep whisking and it will start to thicken once it reaches the right temperature. Allow to cool slightly. 8. Spread the mousse over the cold ganache in the tart case with the spatula. Refrigerate but allow to come to room temperature for 20 minutes before serving. Cut into slices with a sharp knife dipped in hot water.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 920, Fat: 56g (Sat: 24g), Cholesterol: 0mg, Sodium: 520mg, Carb: 120g, Fiber: 38g, Sugar: 18g, Protein: 16g winter 2024

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TA RT E AU C H O CO L AT

Tarte au Chocolat MAKES 8 SERVINGS

This chocolate tart is a timeless classic and makes an elegant make-ahead dinner party dessert. –victoria glass for the pastry crust

2⁄3 cup powdered sugar 1½ cups all-purpose flour 6½ tablespoons cold butter, cut into cubes 1 egg yolk 1 tablespoon cold milk Pinch of salt Seeds of 1 vanilla bean 1 egg white, beaten, for glazing

10 ounces dark/ bittersweet chocolate (60–70% cocoa solids), finely chopped 1¼ cups heavy cream 2 tablespoons brown sugar Pinch of salt 3 large eggs, beaten special equipment

9-inch loose-bottomed tart pan

for the filling

1. To make the pastry crust, blitz the powdered sugar and flour in a food processor until well mixed. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk, milk, salt, and vanilla and pulse again until just combined. Tip the soft dough onto a sheet of plastic wrap, wrap it up, and pop it in the fridge to rest for 1 hour. 2. Take 2 sheets of plastic wrap and place the pastry between them before rolling it out to about ¼ inch thick. Remove the top layer of plastic wrap and transfer the pastry to the tart pan. Gently push the pastry into place with your thumbs. Slice off any overhanging pastry and carefully peel off the plastic wrap. Prick the base with a fork and pop it in the fridge until chilled and firm. 3. Heat the oven to 350°F. 4. Line the pastry with baking parchment—the easiest way to do this is to crumple the parchment roughly before sitting it snugly inside the tart pan—and cover with baking beans. Bake in the preheated oven for 20 minutes, carefully remove the baking beans and baking parchment, and brush the pastry with the beaten egg white. Return the pastry case to the oven for 5 minutes, then remove and allow to cool on a wire rack while you make the filling. 5. Reduce the oven temperature to 275°F. 6. Place the chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl and set aside. Put the cream and sugar in a saucepan set over a gentle heat and stir until the sugar has completely dissolved. Stop stirring and increase the heat slightly until the cream comes to a boil. Tip the hot cream over the chocolate along with the salt and let stand for 1 minute. Use a rubber spatula to stir the chocolate and cream together until melted and glossy. Whisk in the beaten eggs until fully combined and pour the chocolate mixture into the pastry case. 7. Place the tart in the oven, close the door, and immediately turn the oven off. Leave the tart to bake for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely before transferring to the fridge to set for at least 2 hours. Once set, carefully remove the tart from its pan and transfer to a serving plate. Allow to stand at room temperature for half an hour before serving.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 570, Fat: 39g (Sat: 23g), Cholesterol: 155mg, Sodium: 125mg, Carb: 48g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 25g, Protein: 9g

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C H O CO L AT E F U D G E C U P CA K E S

Chocolate Fudge Cupcakes

3. Fill the paper cases two-thirds of the way up and bake in the preheated

MAKES 12

Rich, but extremely light and moist, these cupcakes are a real crowd-pleaser. –victoria glass ½ cup brown sugar 2 tablespoons light corn syrup 4 tablespoons butter, melted ¼ cup sunflower oil 2 eggs, beaten Scant ½ cup milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 5 tablespoons dark/ bittersweet chocolate, melted and cooled 1 cup self-rising flour (see Editor’s Note) 2½ tablespoons cocoa powder ½ teaspoon baking soda Pinch of salt

for the hot chocolate cupcake variation

1 ounce dark/bittersweet chocolate, chopped 2 tablespoons light corn syrup 2 tablespoons heavy cream 2 egg whites 1⁄3 cup granulated sugar Pinch of cream of tartar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Mini marshmallows, to decorate (optional) special equipment:

Piping/pastry bag fitted with a star nozzle/tip

PHOTOS DAN JONES (2)

for the fudge topping

1 stick soft butter 2 cups powdered sugar 4 ounces dark/bittersweet chocolate, melted and cooled Splash of milk, if needed

oven for 20 minutes, or until an inserted skewer comes out clean. Transfer the cakes onto a wire rack to cool. 4. To make the fudge topping, whisk the butter for a few seconds until pale and creamy. Sift in half of the powdered sugar and whisk to combine. Add the melted chocolate and whisk through before sifting in the remaining powdered sugar. Whisk for a minute or so, or until the topping is really creamy and soft. You can add a splash of milk to slightly slacken the mixture if you need to. Spoon the topping into the piping/pastry bag and pipe a generous swirl of buttercream on top of each cooled cake.

Hot Chocolate Cupcakes For a hot chocolate variation, bake the cupcakes as above with the addition of a gooey filling and marshmallow topping instead of fudge.

1. To make the filling, melt the chocolate, syrup, and cream together in a small saucepan set over a gentle heat, stirring all the time. Allow to cool, then cut a small, cone-shaped hollow out of the center of each one using a small, sharp knife and fill each hole with the gooey filling. 2. To make the marshmallow topping, whisk everything except for the vanilla in a large heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water, until the sugar has dissolved and the egg whites are warm. Take the bowl off the heat and continue to whisk until stiff and glossy. This can take several minutes, so use an electric whisk if you have one and be patient. 3. Once ready, whisk in the vanilla and pipe the topping onto the cakes, as above. Decorate with a scattering of mini marshmallows, if you wish.

Editor’s Note: Self-rising flour is a combination of all-purpose flour, baking powder, and salt. If you don’t have any on hand, you could make a substitute. The ratio for self-rising flour is typically 1 cup all-purpose flour, 1½ teaspoons baking powder, and ¼ teaspoon fine salt mixed together.

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a 12-hole muffin pan with paper cases. 2. Whisk together the sugar, syrup, butter, oil, eggs, milk, vanilla, and

Nutrition (per serving):

melted chocolate. Sift in the flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt and fold until completely incorporated.

Calories: 380, Fat: 23g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 60mg, Sodium: 230mg, Carb: 41g, Fiber: 2g, Sugar: 31g, Protein: 4g winter 2024

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Double Cocoa and Strawberry Cake MAKES 1 (9-INCH) CAKE, ABOUT 8 TO 15 SERVINGS

This cake is my husband’s firm favorite! If you also like cakes that are more robust and quite filling, this should be your choice. It’s a great recipe as it’s quite simple and you can use other fruit instead of strawberries; I often use sour cherries, but bananas are great too, especially if the cake is for guests with a serious sweet tooth! When you’ve baked the cake and prepared it as described here, put the bottom layer on a serving plate and set the top layer aside while you make the filling. –dunja gulin

for the basic chocolate cake

11⁄3 cups plain soy milk 2⁄3 teaspoon apple cider vinegar 11⁄3 cups all-purpose flour 2⁄3 teaspoon baking soda 2⁄3 teaspoon baking powder ½ cup cocoa powder Pinch of salt 1⁄3 cup whole-wheat flour

Pinch of ground cinnamon ½ cup pure maple syrup 1⁄3 cup sunflower or safflower oil Grated zest of 1 orange or lemon 4 tablespoons fruit jam 2 teaspoons rum or juice of ½ orange or lemon

PHOTO CLARE WINFELD

D O U B L E CO COA A N D ST R AW B E R RY CA K E

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for the cocoa buttercream

1 cup good-quality brown sugar 1 2⁄3 cups cocoa powder 1⁄2 teaspoon bourbon vanilla powder

3¼ cups nonhydrogenated margarine, at room temperature 2 to 3 tablespoons plain soy milk, at room temperature 1 pound strawberries

For the Cake 1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line the base of a 9-inch springform cake pan with parchment paper and oil the paper. Set aside. 2. Mix together the milk and vinegar in a bowl and set aside for 10 minutes. 3. Sift the unbleached flour, baking soda, baking powder, cocoa, and salt into a mixing bowl, then add the whole-wheat flour and cinnamon and mix well. 4. Add the syrup (see Cook’s Note), oil, and zest to the vinegar mixture and mix well. Gently fold these into the dry ingredients with a spatula. Make sure not to mix too much, otherwise the cake might turn chewy. When everything is just incorporated, spoon the mixture into the prepared cake pan and spread evenly with the spatula. 5. Bake in the preheated oven for 20 to 25 minutes or until a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. Spring open the cake pan and allow the cake to cool completely. 6. When the cake is cold, peel off the paper. Slice the cake in half horizontally with a large, serrated knife. You can also cut off the top if it has domed while baking and you prefer it to be flat. 7. Put the jam and rum or juice in a small saucepan and heat until it comes to a boil. Spread this over both cake layers—this will make the cake moist and stop any frosting from seeping into the cake. Allow to cool. 8. Put the lower cake layer back in the cake pan and attach the springform ring. The cake is now ready to be topped or filled.

For the Chocolate Buttercream 1. Very finely grind the brown sugar in a spice mill or food processor; you should get about 2 cups powdered sugar. 2. Sift together the cocoa powder and powdered brown sugar in a bowl. Stir in the vanilla powder. 3. In a separate, large bowl, beat the margarine with an electric whisk until soft. Gradually add the sifted ingredients, beating well and adding a little milk when the mixture gets dry. Continue to beat until the buttercream is light and fluffy—this will take a couple of minutes, so be patient! 4. Hull and slice half of the strawberries. Hull and halve the remaining strawberries (or leave some unhulled if you prefer—these will be used to decorate the top of the cake). 5. Spread half of the cocoa buttercream over the bottom cake layer with a spatula. Arrange the strawberry slices over the buttercream, then cover with the top cake layer. Spread the remaining buttercream over the top of the cake. 6. Decorate with the strawberry halves. 7. Store the cake in the fridge but bring to room temperature for 30 minutes before serving, as the buttercream firms up when chilled.

tips for Vegan Baking

Using vegan ingredients can sometimes cause a few bumps in the baking process. If your recipe isn’t going according to plan, fear not! Try Dunja Gulin’s troubleshooting tips from “Vegan Baking.”

FOR CAKES Did not rise? A cake can turn out heavy and dense for many reasons: not sifting dry ingredients, overmixing, using ingredients and pans that are too cold, not preheating the oven, stale baking powder, too much whole-wheat flour compared to unbleached flour, or opening the oven for the first 15 minutes of baking. Maybe the flour used has a very low percentage of protein or you didn’t add a crucial acidic ingredient to the batter (lemon, vinegar, etc.).

FOR PIE AND TART CRUST

Sank after baking? Similar reasons to the above. Maybe you threw too many things in at the same time, or your baking pan was too deep and the mixture too liquidy. Soggy and sticky? It hasn’t baked long enough, there was too much liquid in the mixture, or some of the reasons stated in the first two paragraphs. Or you didn’t wait for it to cool completely before cutting into it.

Hard? Definitely overbaked. Maybe you kneaded it too vigorously and for too long, and pie dough hates that. Next time, knead it gently and just enough for the ingredients to come together.

Bitter tasting? Too much baking powder that contains aluminum. Use aluminum-free baking powder and measure the amount stated in the recipe carefully.

Sticky and oily? It’s crucial that the water, flour, and margarine are chilled before use. If they get too warm from the temperature of the kitchen or your warm hands, the oil from the margarine will separate during baking and render an oily and crumbly dough that is impossible to slice.

FOR COOKIES

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 600, Fat: 46g (Sat: 8g), Cholesterol: 0mg, Sodium: 600mg, Carb: 52g, Fiber: 7g, Sugar: 25g, Protein: 6g

Floppy instead of crunchy? This always happens if you decide

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Sticky? Underbaked. Or did you maybe accidentally add too much liquid?

Too crumbly to shape? Not enough water. Add a few drops at a time, or just press the dough into the pan without adding any water. Even though it’s crumbly, it can result in a good crust because it expands and binds together during baking.

Dry and hard? They’ve spent too much time in the oven! Put on a timer next time you bake them, because a minute or two too long and they become brown rocks. Maybe there’s too much flour in the dough. Did you forget to add the raising agent stated in the recipe?

Cook’s Note: If you would like to serve the cake as it is (without a filling or frosting), add a little extra syrup to the mixture, or spread something sweet over the cake after baking.

to substitute the unrefined sugar asked for in the recipe with liquid sweetener such as rice syrup or agave. They will taste great, but they will not be crunchy. Or maybe you stuck to the recipe but didn’t bake them enough, or the temperature was too low? It’s important to have a good oven thermometer.

Soggy bottom? If you are making a pie with a wet filling (like apple pie, etc.) the bottom crust needs to be blind baked for 7 to 10 minutes before you fill it. If that isn’t done, the bottom crust will not get enough heat and the fruit juice will make it soggy.

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PHOTO CLARE WINFELD

ST I C K Y MOCHA SQUARES

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Chocolate treats delight our taste buds but also make our brains happy. Ingredients like tryptophan and phenylethylamine release feel-good brain chemicals that can improve our mood and make us feel relaxed.

Sticky Mocha Squares MAKES ABOUT 20

I remember eating a dessert similar to this one at my neighbor’s house a couple of times and I really liked the texture, but the taste of butter in the glaze was too strong and the cake was too sweet. So, I made a vegan version of it, leaving semolina as the main ingredient but adapting it to my taste. You can also use half semolina and half unbleached flour, but the grainy texture is what makes these squares so interesting. Also, the coconut oil in the glaze definitely works much better than butter! –dunja gulin 1⁄3 2 2 ¼ 1 1 ½ ½ ¾ 1

cup cocoa powder teaspoons baking soda cups semolina teaspoon salt cup plain soy yogurt cup plain soy milk (vanilla-flavored or plain) teaspoon apple cider vinegar cup sunflower oil cup pure maple syrup teaspoon coffee extract

for the glaze

½ cup coconut oil ¾ cup nondairy milk 3½ ounces vegan dark/ bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped ¼ teaspoon bourbon vanilla powder 4 tablespoons brown rice or pure maple syrup 1 teaspoon coffee extract

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 9x12-inch baking pan and set aside. 2. Sift together the cocoa powder and baking soda in a mixing bowl,

PHOTO DAN JONES

SPICED C H O CO L AT E FUDGE

Spiced Chocolate Fudge MAKES 64 PIECES

Delicious, melt-in-the-mouth chocolate fudge requires minimum effort and yields irresistible results. –victoria glass 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1⁄2 teaspoon ground ginger 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1⁄4 teaspoon ground cardamom Pinch of ground black pepper 3½ cups heavy cream 2½ cups granulated sugar

2⁄3 cup liquid glucose (or light corn syrup) 6½ tablespoons butter Pinch of salt 6½ ounces dark/ bittersweet chocolate (60–70% cocoa solids), melted and cooled

then mix in the semolina and salt. 3. In a separate bowl, whisk together the yogurt, milk, vinegar, oil, syrup, and coffee extract. Pour into the bowl of dry ingredients and mix with a wooden spoon until combined. 4. Spoon the cake mixture into the prepared baking pan and spread level with a spatula. Bake in the preheated oven for 25 minutes. 5. Meanwhile, for the glaze, if the coconut oil has solidified, put the jar in a bowl of hot water until the oil has softened. 6. Heat the milk in a saucepan until hot but not boiling, then remove from the heat, add the chocolate and allow to melt. Stir until smooth. 7. Add the coconut oil, vanilla powder, syrup, and coffee extract to the pan and whisk to get a smooth glaze. Keep warm until the cake has finished baking. 8. Pour the glaze over the hot cake in the pan and allow to cool completely. Most of the glaze will be absorbed by the cake and this is what makes it so moist. 9. Serve at room temperature on the day of baking if possible (or the next day), cut into slices.

Cook’s Note: If you’d rather make straightforward, buttery chocolate fudge, you can simply omit the spices from the mixture and follow the instructions as above.

Nutrition (per serving):

Calories: 240, Fat: 13g (Sat: 6g), Cholesterol: 0mg, Sodium: 170mg, Carb: 29g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 11g, Protein: 4g

(Per piece) Calories: 110, Fat: 7g (Sat: 4.5g), Cholesterol: 20mg, Sodium: 15mg, Carb: 12g, Fiber: 0g, Sugar: 10g, Protein: <1g

1. Line an 8-inch square cake pan with baking parchment and set aside. 2. Put everything except for the chocolate in a heavy-bottomed saucepan set over a gentle heat and stir until the sugar and butter have melted. Stop stirring and increase the heat slightly and leave to softly boil until the mixture reaches 250°F. Do not be tempted to crank the heat up to maximum to speed up the process, or you’ll burn the fudge. 3. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool to 230°F before stirring in the chocolate. Whisk gently until the mixture cools to 140°F before pouring the chocolate fudge mixture into the prepared pan. Level the top with a palette knife and leave to set for a few hours before cutting into 1-inch squares.

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A P R I COT A N D C H O CO L AT E B I T E S

Apricot and Chocolate Bites MAKES 32 TO 35

2⁄3 cup unsulfured dried apricots, chopped Freshly squeezed juice and grated zest of 1 big orange ¼ teaspoon ground ginger 1 cup desiccated coconut 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour ¼ teaspoon salt

½ cup coconut oil ¼ cup brown rice or other syrup 1⁄3 cup finely chopped vegan dark/bittersweet chocolate ¼ teaspoon sunflower oil

5. If the coconut oil has solidified, put the jar in a bowl of hot water until the oil has softened. Add it to the apricot paste with the syrup and mix well. Now, add this to the dry ingredients in the bowl and mix with a wooden spoon until well incorporated. 6. Use a small spoon to scoop portions of dough onto the prepared baking sheets lined with parchment paper. Shape into balls, then flatten slightly with the back of the spoon. You should get about 32 to 35 cookies. Bake the cookies in batches in the preheated oven for 10 to 12 minutes, just until lightly golden. If you overbake them, they will become tough. Allow to cool for a couple of minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. 7. Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water. Do not let the base of the bowl touch the water. Add the oil and stir until smooth, then allow to cool slightly. 8. Dip each cookie halfway into the melted chocolate. Allow to cool and set completely before serving. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

1. Heat the oven to 325°F. 2. Put the apricots, orange juice and zest, and ginger in a

Nutrition (per serving):

small saucepan over medium heat. Heat until hot but not boiling. Remove from the heat and transfer to a food processor. Blend to a paste but don’t worry if a few chunks remain. 3. Put the coconut in a heavy skillet and toast over medium–low heat, stirring occasionally, until pale golden—about 8 minutes. Do not burn! Remove from the pan and allow to cool slightly. 4. Mix the flour and salt in a bowl and add the toasted coconut.

Calories: 80, Fat: 4.5g (Sat: 3.5g), Cholesterol: 0mg, Sodium: 30mg, Carb: 9g, Fiber: 1g, Sugar: 3g, Protein: <1g

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “VEGAN BAKING: MORE THAN 50 RECIPES FOR VEGAN-FRIENDLY CAKES, COOKIES & OTHER BAKED TREATS” BY DUNJA GULIN © 2024 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM RYLAND, PETERS & SMALL. PHOTOS BY CLARE WINFIELD

PHOTO CLARE WINFELD OPPOSITE DAN JONES

As the moms of all my best friends know I love baking, I occasionally get emails from them with interesting recipes for their favorite desserts. Although they always contain milk, butter, and lots of sugar, they always inspire me, and I often end up making a vegan version that everybody likes even more than the original! The same story goes for these apricot and chocolate bites; the Krpan family were kind enough to reveal a similar recipe that has since become a part of my sweet repertoire too. –dunja gulin

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Choco Dodgers MAKES ABOUT 15

These crumbly chocolate shortbread sandwiches, generously filled with chocolate ganache, make a sophisticated alternative to the jam-filled variety. –victoria glass 2 2⁄3 1¾ ¾

sticks soft butter cup granulated sugar cups all-purpose flour cup rice flour Scant ½ cup cocoa powder Pinch of salt 2 teaspoons vanilla extract Powdered sugar, for dusting (optional)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 tablespoon light brown sugar for the white chocolate ganache variation

5 ounces white chocolate, chopped 1⁄3 cup heavy cream special equipment

for the chocolate ganache

3½ ounces dark/bittersweet chocolate (60–70% cocoa solids), chopped Scant ½ cup light cream

2½-inch scalloped edged round cookie cutter 1-inch heart-shaped cookie cutter Disposable piping/pastry bag

1. Line 1 to 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. 2. Cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluff y. Sift in the flours and cocoa powder and mix together with the salt and vanilla until just combined. Do not overwork the dough or your dodgers will be tough. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes. 3. In the meantime, make the chocolate (or white chocolate, see Cook’s Note) ganache. Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl and set aside. Put the cream, vanilla, and sugar in a saucepan set over a gentle heat and stir until the sugar has completely dissolved. Increase the heat slightly and allow the cream to just come to a boil. Take it off the heat and leave to stand for 1 minute. Pour the cream over the chocolate and mix with a rubber spatula until it is fully combined and you have a smooth, glossy ganache. Set at room temperature for about 1 hour, or until thickened but still spreadable. Spoon the ganache into a piping/pastry bag and set aside. 4. Roll out the dough to a thickness of 1⁄4 inch and cut out 30 rounds. Cut out a heart from the center of half of the cookies and arrange on the prepared baking sheets. Bring any scraps together, reroll and cut out as many cookies as possible from the dough. Chill in the fridge for 1 hour. 5. Heat the oven to 325°F. 6. Bake the cookies in the preheated oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and allow to cool completely. 7. Snip the end off the piping/pastry bag and squeeze a generous blob of ganache onto the whole cookies. Gently press the cookies with hearts cut out on top to create sandwiches. Dust with powdered sugar if you wish.

Cook’s Note: For White Chocolate Ganache, put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Heat the cream until just boiling and allow to cool for about 30 seconds before pouring over the chocolate. Stir with a spatula until all the chocolate has melted and allow to cool completely. Once cold, transfer the ganache to the fridge for a few hours, or until set but not rock hard—it needs to be soft enough to pipe. Nutrition (per serving):

C H O CO DODGERS

Calories: 280, Fat: 16g (Sat: 10g), Cholesterol: 40mg, Sodium: 105mg, Carb: 30g, Fiber: 1g, Sugar: 12g, Protein: 3g

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “DELICIOUSLY CHOCOLATEY: 100 COCOA-RICH RECIPES FOR BAKES, CAKES AND CHOCOLATE TREATS” BY VICTORIA GLASS © 2015, 2024 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM RYLAND PETERS & SMALL. PHOTOS BY DAN JONES.

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PHOTO LACEY CRISWELL ILLUSTRATION ADOBE

PHOTO KRISTIN TEIG PHOTOGRAPHY ILLUSTRATION ADOBE

A crowded TABLE

Open your kitchen and heart to the simple joy of cooking for others with recipes from Amy Thielen’s latest book “Company”

PHOTO LACEY CRISWELL ILLUSTRATION ADOBE

PHOTO KRISTIN TEIG PHOTOGRAPHY ILLUSTRATION ADOBE

egardless of your culinary background, cooking for others can be an intimidating endeavor. Amy Thielen, award-winning cookbook author, alleviates the stresses with one simple sentence: “Food always tastes better at someone else’s house.” This philosophy has been tested and proved by Thielen herself, who is a notorious hostess of Saturday night dinner parties from her home in rural Minnesota. Although, as a two-time James Beard Award-winning chef and author, Thielen is hardly your average host. While raised in Minnesota, Thielen gained 10 years of expertise in New York City, where she attended culinary school and cooked at some of the top dining destinations in Manhattan. In 2013, her cooking show, “Heartland Table” premiered on Food Network, where it ran for two seasons. Thielen’s authorial achievements are just as impressive—her first cookbook “The New Midwestern Table” received a James Beard Award in 2014 and her second, a memoir published in 2017 titled “Give a Girl a Knife,” was referred to by Rolling Stone as “one of the best culinary memoirs you’ll ever pick up.” Now, in her third writing venture, “Company: The Radically Casual Art of Cooking for Others,” Thielen invites readers to peer into her kitchen and discover the simple joy of hosting— in all its inevitable imperfection. Throughout the book, Thielen shares 20 menus compiled for different occasions, from at-home dinner parties to holiday celebrations to casual walkabouts, each with its own collection of approachable recipes that she encourages readers to make all their own. Try her recipe on page 55 for juicy, flavorful chicken. Below, Jerrod Sumner caught up with Thielen about her new book, her best kitchen secrets, and how she pulls off her warm and intimate get-togethers—which may not be perfect but are sure to leave guests with full bellies and warm hearts. –emma enebak You put so much of yourself, your routine, and your home into your work. Were you born to be a chef or is taste and instinct learned? In the words of Remy [from Pixar’s “Ratatouille”],

‘Anyone can cook.’ I think anybody can be a chef. You don’t have to grow up at your mother’s hip doing everything in the kitchen. Although I didn’t really grow up learning to cook from my mom, she is a fantastic cook. I grew up watching her cook, and there’s a big difference. People always ask, ‘Do you cook with your son? Are you side by side teaching him how to cut?’ No, he’s just watching. I didn’t pick up a knife for a long time, but I watched and shopped with her. She dragged us everywhere. There is so much to being a creative person who likes to cook, and it doesn’t mean you have to be a chef. It’s that you enjoy shopping and know what you’re looking for. I teach my son, ‘These are the good garlics, these are the bad garlics. You can tell.’ And he’s like, ‘Ok, great.’ And [for] teaching taste, we go around the table and say, ‘Do you like this?’ We’re not complaining; we’re saying it could be a little better. That is steeped in how I grew up. My dad had the meat market, and the details are in the potatoes and pork. Nothing fancy. It’s about appreciating what you cook, starting with the ingredients. Your first book, “The New Midwestern Table,” elevated what many thought of Midwest cuisine as a celebration of the land and as a melting pot. Do you think Midwest cooking is having its moment, finally? Yeah, I think in the last 10 years it’s really grown up and grown into itself. Midwest cooking is a lot of things, and the answer to ‘What is it?’ or ‘How do I talk about it?’ doesn’t get easier. Talking about restaurants in the Twin Cities: phenomenal. At home, people are just still doing their family traditions. And there are so many different types of families. You don’t have to cook with just this small repertoire of ingredients. Tell me about the new book. I’m really excited about this book. It’s been six years in the making. Now is the perfect time for it. It’s about cooking for other people [and] it’s a menu cookbook. That is an interesting thing and made it kind of hard. I see why people don’t do more winter winter 2023-2024 2024

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of them. I’m super happy about the book visually as well as what’s in it. The recipes are the recipes I have been making over and over again for more than 20 years, some of which I have never shared. A lot of these things that I really, really like will be repertoire builders, and you don’t have to follow the menus. I get asked a lot, ‘How do you make a menu? How do you make an experience?’ This book sets out to answer that. How you pull together a plate. How you compose that whole experience. Is this cookbook for people who know how to cook, don’t know how to cook, or somewhere in between? Both. It has plenty of instructions and visual cues to teach those who don’t cook that much to make something that really turns out well. At the same time, there are many more advanced recipes in there for people that want a challenge. I assume those people don’t measure their salt. I know my people. When you think about cooking versus entertaining, is it more about the pleasure or technique for you? Both. There’s the sharing what you make, but you gotta get there. The best way to learn technique is to just start cooking. You can learn more from a really good recipe than you can from a class or school. It’s the equivalent of learning to play piano by scales or memorizing a difficult song. It’s the touch; it’s how people handle things. I can always tell when I am with someone who is a good cook by how they touch the ingredients. There is a lightness and assuredness to how they touch and move. They have a feeling in their fingers. These recipes in the book will get you there. I am at a place in my own cooking where I don’t want to measure, scale, and take temperatures. That makes me question my intuition. I do it for the book when people need a backup, but I really want to encourage people to know when it’s done. It’s done when it’s done. When you’ve made the dish enough times, you know it and you’re just cooking rather than cooking and reading a recipe. Ideally you do it a number of times, and then it’s just about cooking while talking and drinking a glass of wine. If you get to know someone through their cooking, how much of their entertaining is about putting their own personality out there? A lot of personality goes into cooking for others. Especially the

We talked a little bit at the beginning about your dad’s meat market and watching your mom cook. What memories influence your entertaining the most? It’s two things, it’s not just one. It’s the casual vibe that I grew up with where we had parties in the garage for the whole block, the whole town. Literally, parties in garages where people feel comfortable in rural settings. My time in New York kitchens taught me a different level of hospitality. I aim for predicting what my guest is going to want. I know they want spreads, a real drink, and homemade lemonade in the veins of the kid melting down. Letting people sit back and say ‘thank you.’ They feel relaxed and good. I don’t serve right away. I grew up knowing that dinner was ready when the meat was done. And still today, that’s when we eat. Meat is done, and we take 30 minutes to assemble the salad. So, I can’t tell you when to come. Roundabout dinner time, 30 minutes after the meat is done. If you could change one perception on cooking or entertaining for others, what would it be? I want people to be fearless. These recipes work, so you can rely on that. While making these recipes, I failed so many times, and I failed publicly. I don’t always go with my tried and true. I will experiment for people. If I cook for people, I think about what are they hungry for [and about] what I am hungry for. When you think of others, it changes your creativity. Cooking for others puts you in new territory, and it’s OK when things don’t all work out. It’s OK if you have a few spectacular things and an ‘Oops—I burned the nuts because we were talking.’ We all burn nuts, right? Totally relatable. You have more nuts, and you redo them, or you don’t have nuts. So much talk of nuts. What’s your go-to nut recipe? There’s something I do a lot. It’s butter-roasted walnuts in a cast iron pan on the stovetop, not in the oven to toast; that’s where they go to die and burn. This one is at the stovetop with butter, herbs, garlic, rosemary sprigs that you don’t cut up but fish out later. You just baste them in butter and oil very, very slowly. And that’s your dressing for salad, and you save nuts for morning oats. It’s delicious. What’s your best piece of advice for someone who wants to cook more and entertain more? Just say yes. Don’t worry about the house. Just worry about two rooms, and close all the other doors. I wrote in the introduction that, after the pandemic, we realized how much we need people, and “Company” is a play on the Midwestern thing of having people over. It’s about having company and people keeping you company. Just relax, and no one will care as much about the food as you, my fellow cook. Remember everything tastes better at someone else’s home.

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PHOTO AMY THIELEN

–A M Y T H I ELEN

way I do it. It’s all about the feeling of family and feeling welcome, even if it’s new acquaintances. I keep it casual here. This is the north woods. I have a way of making people feel welcome. I think I do. I hope I do. Part of it is being a relaxed host and not stressing. Keeping one sauce to make in front of people. Letting them join in if they want to help, but I don’t put people to work. It’s about being real, with eccentricities and all.

ILLUSTRATION ADOBE

“Cooking for others puts you in new territory, and it’s OK when things don’t all work out. It’s OK if you have a few spectacular things and an ‘Oops—I burned the nuts because we were talking.’”

4. Heat the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of

C R I S P Y S M A S H E D C H I C K E N B R E A STS W I T H G I N - A N D - S AG E J U S

Crispy Smashed Chicken Breasts With Gin-And-Sage Jus MAKES 6 SERVINGS

If someone were to stand over a pan of sautéing chicken holding an ice-cold martini and happen to slosh it into the pan, you would have this sauce—basically a liquidy chicken gravy spiked with gin and sage leaves. I’m making it sound sloppy, but in fact there’s a lot of craft to it. You want to cook the garlic-and-sage-marinated chicken on its skin side for what seems an interminably long time, slowly turning the skin into a hard-shell top and dragging out the chicken’s juices, which will reduce to a varnish of pure umami on the bottom of the pan. Deglazing that with a bit of chicken stock and gin makes a thin but potent natural jus. But it’s the crumbly fried sage leaves that make this dish fit for company. Be prepared to stand stoveside and watch the bottom of the pan with predatory focus, because if you let yourself be called away, the precious browned foundation will burn and the whole sauce will be thrown. –amy thielen

PHOTO AMY THIELEN

ILLUSTRATION ADOBE

24 3 6 ½ ½ 3 3 ¼ ¾ 1-2

sage leaves, divided large skin-on chicken breasts garlic cloves, smashed and peeled teaspoon fine sea salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoons olive oil tablespoons butter, cold, divided cup gin cup chicken stock, preferably homemade tablespoons fresh lemon juice (to taste) Lemon wedges, for serving

1. Rinse the sage leaves and dry thoroughly with a towel. 2. If the chicken breasts have the rib cage attached, remove it—and any other bones— with a sharp knife. Don’t trim off any skin or fat. Set each chicken breast skin side down on a cutting board and pound with a large meat mallet to even out the hump, flattening the chicken to an even thickness. 3. Put the chicken in a bowl and add the garlic cloves, 12 of the sage leaves, the salt, and the pepper. Cover and marinate for at least 1 hour, and up to 6 hours, refrigerated.

butter in a very large stainless steel sauté pan over medium-low heat. When the butter melts, add remaining 12 sage leaves and fry, moving and flipping them gently with a fork, until crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove the crispy sage to a plate. 5. Turn up the heat slightly and add the chicken, skin side down, to the oil, along with its marinade aromatics. Gently cook the chicken over medium heat, slowly but steadily, taking care not to burn the oil, until the skin crisps and turns a deep caramel color, 25 to 30 minutes. Be prepared to stay stoveside, moving the chicken around in the pan, pressing on it with a spatula to force contact with the pan, and moderating the heat as necessary, until the white sign of doneness creeps two-thirds of the way up the sides of the breasts. As you sauté, remove any garlic cloves that threaten to burn and save them for the sauce. 6. When the chicken skin has turned dark amber, flip the chicken, lower the heat, and cook gently until the internal temperature reaches 140°F on an instant-read thermometer. The temperature will carry over to a safe but still juicy 150°F while you finish the sauce. Transfer the chicken to a serving platter and add the gin to the pan, off the heat. Return it to the burner and simmer for 30 seconds to burn off the sharpness, then add the chicken stock and cook, scraping at the browned residue on the bottom of the pan to loosen it, until the liquid has reduced by half. (You should have about ½ cup of sauce.) Add the lemon juice, any reserved garlic cloves, and the remaining 2 tablespoons cold butter, remove from the heat, and swirl the pan to emulsify the butter. 7. Move the chicken breasts to a cutting board and slice crosswise, taking care to cut neatly through the skin, then return to the platter. Pour the sauce around the perimeter of the platter—not over the chicken, which would dampen and soften the crispy skin— and top with the crispy sage leaves. Serve immediately, with a fork for spearing the meat and a serving spoon for the sauce. Garnish with lemon quarters.

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pairings

Swirl, Sip, and Snack Wine makes a great match with your favorite munchies by mary subialka ou’re kicking back with your favorite show and some snacks. A glass of wine would be great. But what wine pairs well with potato chips? What about popcorn? And is there something to complement cheese curls? Certainly! Whether you prefer red or white—or even Champagne—there’s a bottle to uncork that will match just as nicely with your snacks as it might with a meal. Sparkling wine and Champagne pair with “anything salty (potato chips, nuts),” suggests Karen MacNeil, author of “The Wine Bible.” So, pop open a bottle with popcorn. Chardonnay’s buttery qualities go great with buttery popcorn. Pinot Gris/Grigio will balance the oil and salt of potato chips. Merlot can pair well with onionflavored chips or with chips and sour cream dip. And try Zinfandel with barbecue-flavored chips. Cheddar cheese pairs well with Cabernet Sauvignon’s cherry and black currant flavors so, then, could crunchy or puffy cheese curl snacks. Munching on some hummus and pita bread? Try Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc if you prefer whites wines, or Pinot Noir and Chianti for reds, suggest Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page in their book, “What to Drink with What You Eat.” If you like to snack on mixed nuts and nuts with dried fruit, open a bottle of Beaujolais, Chianti, or Sangiovese, suggest the pair. If snacking on peanuts, sip on Chardonnay or Gewürztraminer—but avoid red wine. Pinot Grigio is light and crisp and balances well with salty tortilla chips, including those with hints of lime flavoring. If you’re dipping those chips in salsa, Chardonnay’s fruitiness can be a nice complement. For loaded nachos, reach for Zinfandel or Syrah. If your snacks lean toward some healthier veggies and dip, try a Sauvignon Blanc, especially if it’s an herb-based dip: The herbs in the dip will cancel out those in the wine, playing up the wine’s fruitiness, say Dornenburg and Page. Merlot can balance the herbaceous veggies for those who prefer red. Embrace wine’s any-day nature—it doesn’t need to be a special occasion or meal to enjoy a glass. Relax and try these pairing suggestions and experiment with variations that sound good.

PHOTO TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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