15 minute read
Weekend Cooking
Relax and enjoy the luxury of a slower-paced dinner.
O ne surefi re way to make the most of a fall weekend is to cook something that might not fi t into your busy workweek. Free from the demands of weekday schedules, our Saturdays and Sundays can offer the luxury of setting a stew to simmer midafternoon, spice-rubbing a whole chicken in the morning while the coffee brews, slowcooking short ribs until their meaty aromas fi ll the house, or maybe cooking up whole grains and legumes to create a healthy vegetarian supper. Sometimes weekend cooking might mean date night at home, in which case you’ll want something simple yet reliable, like fi sh baked in parchment. Whatever your weekend vibe, we’ve got the recipes to make it a good one.
BY MOLLY STEVENS PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
BROWN SUGAR AND SOY SAUCE BRAISED SHORT RIBS WITH SHIITAKES
PORK AND TOMATILLO CHILE VERDE
Pork and Tomatillo Chili Verde
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Tangy-sweet tomatillos give this meaty chili a uniquely delicious edge. Make a big pot to serve a crowd on the weekend or to heat up later for easy weeknight suppers. For hearty appetites, add a spoonful of rice to each bowl. Like most stews, this keeps for days.
2 pounds pork shoulder, cut into 1½-inch chunks 1½ pounds tomatillos (about 15 medium), husks removed and rinsed (see Cook’s Notes) 2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped 1 small white onion, coarsely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1-2 jalapeño peppers, cored and seeded 1½ cups lightly packed cilantro leaves and tender stems 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 poblano peppers, cored, seeded, and diced 1 large bell pepper cored, seeded, and diced 1½ teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon mild chili powder 1¾ cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 teaspoon kosher salt (or ¾ teaspoon fine salt), plus more to taste 1 (15.5-ounce) can hominy, drained (see Cook’s Notes)
For Serving (optional)
Fresh cilantro leaves, chopped ½ cup crumbled queso fresco or feta
Thinly sliced radishes
Lime wedges
Warm tortillas and/or plain rice
1. Spread the pork out on a tray or plate to dry; pat dry with paper towels if necessary. 2. Heat the broiler with a rack about 6 inches below. Put the tomatillos on a foil-lined baking sheet and broil, turning a few times, until charred all over and beginning to soften, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a blender or food processor with any juices. Add the celery, onion, garlic, jalapeño, and cilantro and blend until smooth. Set aside. 3. Heat the oil in a large heavy-based stew pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Brown the pork in batches, turning with tongs, until nicely browned on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes per batch. Return to the tray or plate. 4. Lower the heat to medium, and add the poblano, green pepper, cumin, and chili powder. Sauté, stirring, until the peppers and spices are well combined, about 1 minute. Add the puréed tomatillo mixture and the broth. Season with 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste. Stir to dissolve any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Add the hominy and pork, along with any juices. Bring to a gentle simmer. Partially cover, and adjust the heat so the stew simmers gently, and cook until the pork is tender, about 1½ hours. Add salt to taste. Serve in deep bowls, topping as you like with cilantro, queso, radishes, and lime wedges. Accompany with warm tortillas and/or rice.
Cook’s Notes:
n Fresh tomatillos, sometimes called husk tomatoes, look a lot like unripe, green tomatoes except they come wrapped in a papery husk. Before using, peel off the husk and discard, then rinse the tomatillos under warm water to remove the sticky coating. If you can’t find tomatillos, green tomatoes may be substituted instead. n Hominy is made from whole kernels of corn that have been treated to soften their outer husks and plump up. Canned hominy is ready to eat straight from the can, but it benefits from being simmered alongside other ingredients as in this stew.
Nutrition (per serving):
With queso fresco: Calories: 440, Fat: 25g (Sat: 7 g), Cholesterol: 105 mg, Sodium: 740 mg, Carb: 19g, Fiber: 4g, Sugar: 7g, Protein: 36g
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
The beauty of the beer can here is twofold: The chicken roasts standing up so that every last bit of skin gets gorgeously crisp brown, and the liquid inside the can (you can use beer, wine, or soda) creates steam to keep the bird juicy and tasty. For best flavor, season the chicken 8 to 24 hours in advance.
1 (4-pound) chicken 1½ teaspoons ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon paprika ½ teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more to taste 2 teaspoons kosher salt (or 1½ teaspoons fine), plus more to taste 1 (12-ounce) can beer, wine, or soda, at room temperature 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, plus 1 tablespoon chopped 3 medium-large carrots, cut into 1-inch chunks 8 ounces red potatoes, cut into 1-inch chunks 1 bulb fennel, trimmed and cut into 3⁄4-inch wedges 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1. Remove any giblets and large deposits of fat from the chicken. Pat dry inside and out with paper towels. Combine the coriander, cumin, chili powder, oregano, paprika, pepper, and salt in a small bowl. Season the chicken all over, inside and out, with the spices. For the best flavor, set on a rack over a dish and refrigerate for 8 to 24 hours prior to cooking. 2. Heat the oven to 375°F with a rack in the lower third. Let the chicken sit at room temperature while the oven heats. Open the can of beer (wine or soda) and pour off about 4 ounces of liquid and discard (or drink!). Put the rosemary sprigs into the can’s opening. Set the can in the center of a sturdy roasting pan, and use your hands to carefully place the chicken upright onto the can; slide the chicken down and wriggle it until it seems stable without tipping over. 3. In a large bowl, combine the carrots, potatoes, fennel, chopped rosemary, and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Arrange the vegetables around the chicken. Transfer the pan to the oven, and roast, stirring the vegetables partway through, until the chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165°F, about 1 hour. 4. Transfer the roasting pan to a heat-proof surface, and lift the chicken off the can (it can help to have a second set of hands for this maneuver; see Cook’s Notes). Discard the can and its contents. Set the chicken on a carving board to rest for 10 minutes. Stir the vegetables and check that they are tender and browned. If not, return to the oven while the chicken rests. 5. Carve the chicken as desired. Serve alongside the vegetables.
Cook’s Notes:
n You don’t need beer to make “beer-can” chicken. If beer’s not your thing, consider canned wine, or a “dry” option such as nonalcoholic beer or ginger ale. n You only need a 12-ounce can that is about two-thirds full to provide the combination of internal steam and upright vertical roasting “rack.” n Getting the fresh chicken onto the beer can is a simple enough operation: Merely open the cavity and shimmy the chicken onto its little perch. Getting the hot roasted chicken off the can, however, can be trickier, and it’s wise to enlist a helper. The safest way is to have one person secure the can either with tongs or a heavy towel. Then use a meat fork and tongs to carefully lift the chicken off the can, taking care not to overturn the can.
Nutrition (per serving):
With skin: Calories: 570, Fat: 34g (Sat: 9 g), Cholesterol: 245 mg, Sodium: 1400 mg, Carb: 15g, Fiber: 4g, Sugar: 3g, Protein: 51g Without skin: Calories: 420, Fat: 15g (Sat: 2.5 g), Cholesterol: 240 mg, Sodium: 870 mg, Carb: 15g, Fiber: 4g, Sugar: 3g, Protein: 51g
OVEN-ROASTED “BEER CAN” CHICKEN AND VEGETABLES WITH ROSEMARY
BAKED COD WITH CHERRY TOMATOES AND LEEKS IN PARCHMENT
MAKES 2 SERVINGS
Baking fish in packets is a magical technique that’s perfect for a date night. The fish turns out tender and flavorful every time, the packets can be prepped ahead, and cleanup is a cinch— simply crumple up the paper and toss. Boiled red potatoes or plain rice make an ideal side.
3 tablespoons butter, softened, divided; plus more for the parchment 1½ cups thinly sliced leek (white and pale green of 1 medium leek); see Cook’s Notes ¼ cup dry white wine (or vegetable broth), plus 1 tablespoon 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, plus 2 sprigs fresh thyme
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste ¼ teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 2 (6-ounce) cod or haddock fillets, 1-inch thick 6-8cherry tomatoes, halved
1. Melt 1½ tablespoons butter in a medium skillet over medium-low heat. Add the leeks, ¼ cup wine (or broth), chopped thyme, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover and simmer gently, stirring occasionally and adding a few drops of water if the pan dries out, until the leeks are silky-tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the remaining 1½ tablespoons butter with the lemon zest, juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. 2. Heat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the middle. Cut two 24x15-inch sheets of parchment paper. Fold each sheet in half, forming 15x12-inch rectangles, and use a pencil to draw a half-heart shape on each, centering it on the folded edge and making it as big as it will fit. Use scissors to cut out the hearts. 3. Open the parchment hearts on the counter. Butter the inside of the parchment, leaving a good 2-inch border. Divide the leeks between the 2 hearts, arranging them on half of the heart, near the fold. Place the cod fillets on top. Smear the fish with the lemon-butter mixture. Top with tomatoes and thyme sprigs. Sprinkle the remaining 1 tablespoon wine (or broth) over top. Fold the other half of the parchment over to close the packet. Then, starting at the top of the heart, working with about 1 inch at a time, fold over the edge, pressing down to crease. Move along the edge of the packet, making overlapping folds, creasing as you go to make sure the pleats hold. Go back around, making another fold any place that isn’t tightly sealed. (The packets can be made up until this point and refrigerated for up to 3 hours.) 4. Place the packets side by side on a baking sheet. Bake for 16 minutes; they will have puffed up some and browned slightly. (If fish packets have been in the refrigerator, increase time to 18 minutes.) 5. Carefully cut open the packets with scissors or a knife, keeping them flat so as not to spill any liquid. Carefully slide the contents out onto dinner plates or pasta bowls, and serve immediately.
Cook’s Notes:
n Leeks can harbor a good deal of sand and need a thorough rinse before cooking. Start by trimming away the thick, dark green tops, then split the remaining leek lengthwise and thinly slice each half. Drop the slices into a basin of cool water, swish around, and lift out, leaving any sand behind. For this recipe, there’s no need to dry the leeks. n This recipe is open to endless variation. Try it with salmon or halibut fillets. Add fresh herbs like dill and tarragon, or use orange in place of lemon, and swap out the leeks for a bed of fresh spinach or sautéed mushrooms. n The packets can be made with foil instead of parchment, but parchment looks nicer and you get more concentrated flavors. Because foil is easier to seal, you can skip the heart shape and make square-shaped packets.
Nutrition (per serving):
Calories: 380, Fat: 19g (Sat: 11 g), Cholesterol: 120 mg, Sodium: 250 mg, Carb: 14g, Fiber: 2g, Sugar: 4g, Protein: 32g
MAKES 4 SERVINGS AS A MAIN, 8 AS A SIDE
Sweet, thick-walled bell peppers are at their peak in the fall, and they make ideal “boats” to load up with a delectable pilaf. Just add a green salad and you’ve got a hearty vegetarian supper. A single “boat” also makes an exciting side to any roast. Choose a mix of red, yellow, and orange peppers to make these as colorful as they are tasty.
4 large (about 8 ounces each) bell peppers 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Salt and pepper, to taste 1 cup diced onion 1 cup diced carrot 1 cup diced celery
3 cups cooked quinoa (see Cook’s Notes) 1½ cups cooked French green or black
Beluga lentils (see Cook’s Notes) ½ cup chopped fresh parsley ½ cup chopped hazelnuts, toasted ½ cup grated Parmesan ½ cup grated Gruyere ⅓ cup panko (optional)
1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Cut the peppers in half lengthwise and remove the cores, stems, ribs, and seeds. Brush inside and out with oil and arrange in a large baking dish. Season lightly with salt and pepper. 2. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery. Season with a salt and pepper and sauté, stirring often until tender, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a mixing bowl. Add the quinoa, lentils, parsley, hazelnuts, and ¼ cup each Parmesan and Gruyere. Stir to combine, and add salt and pepper to taste. Spoon the mixture into the pepper boats, distributing evenly. Combine the remaining Parmesan, Gruyere, and panko (if using), and scatter
Brown Sugar and Soy Sauce Braised Short Ribs with Shiitakes
MAKES 6 SERVINGS | SEE PHOTO ON PAGE 21
Tender, meaty, and tingling with hints of ginger, orange, and star anise, these fall-off-the-bone ribs are transformative. You’ll want something to accompany the shiitake-studded sauce, like noodles or rice. Steam or sauté heads of baby bok choy for a fitting side.
4½–5 pounds meaty bone-in beef short ribs 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems and caps separated 6 scallions, whites and greens separated 1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into 6 slices 2 star anise 1 cinnamon stick
2 teaspoons white or black peppercorns 3 strips orange zest (see Cook’s Note) ¼ cup dry sherry, white wine, or water ½ cup soy sauce, preferably low-sodium ¼ cup dark brown sugar, plus 2 tablespoons 1¾ cups low-sodium chicken broth 2 tablespoons cornstarch
1. Heat oven to 325°F. Pat ribs dry with paper towel. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy braising pot over medium heat. Brown ribs in batches, turning with tongs, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter, and continue until all ribs are browned. 2. Pour off and discard all but about 1 tablespoon fat from the pot. Return the pot to medium heat and add shiitake stems, scallion whites, ginger, star anise, cinnamon stick, peppercorns, and orange zest. Stir to combine everything with the fat, then add the sherry, stirring to dissolve any browned bits off the bottom of the pot. Add the soy sauce, ¼ cup brown sugar, and broth. Bring to a simmer. Return the ribs to the pot, along with any juices. Cover and transfer to the oven to braise until fork-tender, about 2½ to 3 hours. 3. Transfer the ribs to a shallow baking dish, and cover with foil to keep warm. Strain the braising liquid into a bowl or other heatproof vessel, and skim to remove the surface fat. (The ribs may be prepared up to this point up to three days ahead; see Cook’s Notes.) 4. Thinly slice shiitake caps and finely chop the scallion greens. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a medium skillet or saucepan over the top. Brush a piece of foil with oil, and use it to cover the baking dish (oil side down). (The peppers may be made to this point and refrigerated for up to 24 hours.) 3. Pour ½ cup water in the baking dish and bake until peppers are tender, 45 minutes. Remove foil and bake 10 minutes to brown tops. Serve warm or room temperature.
Cook’s Notes:
n Quinoa: 1 cup dried for 3 cups cooked. Rinse, then combine with 2 cups water. Bring to a boil, add a pinch salt, lower heat, cover, and simmer until water absorbed, 15 minutes. Let steam 5 minutes, then fluff with a fork. n Lentils: ½ cup dried for 1½ cups cooked. Rinse. Place in medium saucepan with enough cool water to cover by 2 inches. Add a pinch of salt, and boil gently, until tender, 18 to 20 minutes. Drain and cool.
Nutrition (per serving):
As main dish with breadcrumbs: Calories: 550, Fat: 22g (Sat: 6 g), Cholesterol: 25 mg, Sodium: 380 mg, Carb: 67g, Fiber: 15g, Sugar: 9g, Protein: 24g
over medium heat, and sauté the shiitake caps until brown and tender, about 6 minutes. Add half the chopped scallions. 5. For serving, combine cornstarch with 2 tablespoons water in a bowl. Pour the strained braising liquid into the pan with sautéed mushrooms and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Stir in the cornstarch slurry, a little at a time, stirring until thick enough to coat a spoon. Keep warm. 6. Heat the broiler to medium. Spoon about ½ cup strained braising liquid around the ribs, and spread each one with a thin layer of brown sugar. Slide the ribs under the broiler and broil until the brown sugar is melted and sizzling, 2 to 4 minutes. Spoon sauce and mushrooms around the ribs, sprinkle with remaining scallions, and serve.
Cook’s Note:
Ribs can be made up to three days ahead. After cooking, transfer to a baking dish and strain liquid into a heatproof container. Once cool, cover both tightly and refrigerate until ready to serve. Scrape chilled fat from the liquid’s surface and spoon about ½ cup over the ribs. Cover and reheat ribs in a 350°F oven about 25 minutes. Proceed to sauté mushrooms and make the sauce, as directed, then run the heated ribs under broiler just before serving.
Nutrition (per serving):
Calories: 1,010, Fat: 59g (Sat: 23 g), Cholesterol: 265 mg, Sodium: 1,060 mg, Carb: 20g, Fiber: 2g, Sugar: 11g, Protein: 92g n
STUFFED PEPPER BOATS WITH QUINOA-LENTIL AND HAZELNUT PILAF
