Sweet and Savory Spirals

RASPBERRY ROLLS WITH GANACHE

Sweet and Spirals Savory Roll out layers of deliciousness from gooey cinnamon rolls to cheesy appetizers.

BY ROBIN ASBELL

Few things have the instant appeal of the spiral of dough and filling that is a cinnamon roll. Just think of that curled circle of comforting sweetness, and that cinnamon-y fragrance. Whether you associate it with your grandma’s kitchen or the food court at the airport, it’s irresistible. The spiral of dough with its flavorful swirl is such fun to eat, too, as you unwind it with your fingers, exposing the melted filling. That’s why they also beg to take on other fl avors beyond cinnamon and sugar.

The perfection of the spiral roll translates into all sorts of sweet and savory flavor combinations. In this collection of recipes, you can try variations from fruity and chocolaty to herbal and cheesy, and undoubtedly fi nd new favorites. Pumpkin spice is the fl avor of the season, and the pumpkin spice rolls have a pumpkin cheesecake frosting that takes it to the next level of spicy goodness. Raspberry jam-fi lled rolls, dappled with chocolate chips and drizzled with chocolate ganache take the spiral a little closer to dessert status. And on the savory side, Pesto Scone Rolls make a great breakfast or appetizer—and even go well with a glass of wine. The Walnut Gruyère Rolls have enough cheese and nuts to serve as a light lunch and are delectable enough to earn a place on your holiday table. You have the option to use frozen, prepared dough in a few recipes to save some time, if you prefer. It’s easy to celebrate the spiral and try some new sweet and savory rolls this season.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

Classic Roll Dough

MAKES 12 ROLLS

Use this basic dough to make the Classic Cinnamon Rolls and the Raspberry Rolls with Ganache.

5 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting ½ cup sugar 1 tablespoon instant-rise yeast 1 teaspoon salt ¾ cup milk ¼ cup water 1 stick unsalted butter, sliced in pats 2 large eggs

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer or large bowl, combine flour, sugar, yeast, and salt and stir to mix. Insert dough hook if using the stand mixer. 2. In a small pot, combine milk, water, and butter pats and place over medium heat. Stir, taking the temperature with an instant-read thermometer often, until butter is melted and mixture is 120-130°F. 3. Turn the mixer on low and pour in the milk mixture, then add the eggs. Mix until combined, then knead for 5 minutes. 4. Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, cover with a wet towel or plastic wrap, and put in a warm spot to rise for 1½ hours or more until doubled in size. 5. When the dough has doubled in size, punch down with your fist. Then, pull the sides into the center and gently press into a loose ball. 6. Return to recipe instructions for Classic Cinnamon Rolls (step 4) or Raspberry Rolls with Ganache (step 3) and proceed.

Nutrition (per serving):

Calories: 310, Fat: 9g (Sat: 5g), Cholesterol: 50mg, Sodium: 210mg, Carb: 49g, Fiber: 2g, Sugar: 9g, Protein: 7g

Raspberry Rolls with Ganache

MAKES 12 | PHOTO ON PAGE 30

Take your sweet rolls into decadent dessert territory with the flavor combination of raspberries and chocolate. Instead of a cinnamon filling, these are spread with raspberry jam for a fruity, colorful swirl, and you have the option to sprinkle some chocolate chips in, too, for a chocolate lover’s dream. Once baked, you’ll drizzle them with a deep chocolate ganache, creating an irresistible treat everyone will rave about.

1 Classic Roll Dough (see recipe left)

For the Filling

1 cup raspberry jam ¾ cup mini chocolate chips (optional)

For the Ganache

4 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped ¼ cup heavy cream

1. Make the dough using the Classic Roll Dough recipe (see recipe left). 2. While the dough is rising, line a large sheet pan with parchment paper or butter a 9x13-inch baking pan and set aside. 3. After the dough has risen, prepare the rolls. On a floured counter, pat or roll the dough to make a 12x18-inch rectangle. Spread the jam over the dough, leaving 1 inch bare on the edge across from you. Sprinkle with chocolate chips, if using. 4. Roll up the dough, jellyroll style (see box below), and pinch the seam to seal. Place seam side down and use a sharp serrated knife to cut in four even cylinders, then divide each into three slices, to make 12. 5. Transfer to the prepared pan, spacing the rolls evenly. Cover the rolls with a damp towel or plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for 1 hour until puffed. Heat the oven to 375°F. 6. Bake the rolls for 20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into a roll registers 190°F, or until the rolls are golden around the edges. The rolls in the baking pan will take 5 minutes longer. Let cool. 7. Make the ganache: In a microwaveable bowl, combine chopped chocolate and cream. Microwave for 45 seconds, then stir, and continue microwaving in 10 second increments until melted. Let cool slightly, then drizzle it decoratively over the rolls. Chill until the ganache is set. The rolls will keep, tightly covered, for up to 4 days in the refrigerator.

Cook’s Note: For the dough, you could use 2 pounds of frozen sweet dough, thawed. Follow package instructions to thaw in the refrigerator overnight, then proceed to roll out as in step 3.

Nutrition (per serving):

Calories: 440, Fat: 14g (Sat: 8g), Cholesterol: 55mg, Sodium: 220mg, Carb: 73g, Fiber: 2g, Sugar: 31g, Protein: 8g

Jellyroll Style Tips

To ll and roll your dough, shape the dough into a rectangle, then pat or roll to the dimensions in the recipe. The longer side should be parallel to the edge of the counter. Sprinkle or spread the lling over the dough as evenly as possible, leaving 1 inch of the edge of the dough farthest from you bare.

Starting with the edge closest to you, roll the dough away from you over the lling, to form a cylinder. Pinch the seam to seal, then place, seam side down, on the counter to cut into rolls. Use a sharp, serrated knife to cut in the number of rolls directed in the recipe, holding the dough cylinder in place with your other hand.

Classic Cinnamon Rolls

MAKES 12

These cinnamon rolls have the perfect combination of tender, buttery dough and brown sugar-cinnamon swirl plus a sweet vanilla glaze to top it off. You have the option to bake them in a 9x13-inch baking dish for pull-apart rolls, or on a half sheet pan so they stay separate. You can fill them with raisins, as I did, or opt for your favorite nuts. Either way, the scent of these rolls as they come out of the oven will bring everyone to the kitchen.

1 Classic Roll Dough (see recipe on page 32)

For the Filling

1 cup light brown sugar 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons cinnamon 1⁄8 teaspoon salt 4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) unsalted butter, melted 1 cup raisins (or chopped walnuts or pecans)

For the Glaze Frosting

2 cups powdered sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 2 tablespoons whole or 2% milk

1. Make the dough using the Classic Roll Dough recipe (see box on page 32). 2. While the dough is rising, line a large sheet pan with parchment paper or butter a 9x13-inch baking pan and set aside. 3. Prepare the filling: Combine the brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, and salt and stir to mix, then stir in the melted butter to make a thick paste. Reserve. 4. After the dough has risen, prepare the rolls. On a floured counter, pat or roll the dough to make a 12x18-inch rectangle. Sprinkle the filling over the dough, leaving 1 inch bare on the edge across from you. Use your fingers to spread the paste evenly. Sprinkle evenly with raisins (or nuts). 5. Roll up the dough, jellyroll style (see box on page 32), and pinch the seam to seal. Place seam side down and use a sharp serrated knife to cut in four even cylinders, then divide each into three slices, to make 12. 6. Transfer to the prepared pan, spacing the rolls evenly. Cover the rolls with a damp towel or plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for 1 hour, until puffed. Heat the oven to 350°F. 7. Bake the rolls for 20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into a roll registers 190°F, or until the buns are golden around the edges. The rolls in the baking pan will take 5 minutes longer. Let cool. 8. Make the glaze frosting: Combine the powdered sugar, vanilla, and melted butter and stir, then drizzle in the milk, stirring to make a pourable glaze. Make sure the rolls are cool. If you glaze the rolls while warm, it will melt into the rolls, and if you wait until the rolls are completely cooled, you can drizzle it decoratively over the rolls. These will keep, tightly covered, for up to 4 days in the refrigerator. Cook’s Note: For the dough, you could use 2 pounds frozen sweet dough, thawed. Follow package instructions to thaw in the refrigerator overnight, then proceed to roll out as in step 4. Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 550, Fat: 19g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 75mg, Sodium: 250mg, Carb: 89g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 45g, Protein: 8g

Pumpkin Spice Rolls with Pumpkin Cheesecake Frosting

MAKES 12

It’s pumpkin spice season, and everyone is craving the warm, comforting spices we associate with pumpkin pie. In these rolls, you’ll make your own blend of spices (or use pumpkin pie spice), and put some in the dough, filling, and even the frosting. Sweet, tender pumpkin dough is filled with a combination of brown sugar, spices, and chopped pecans for a roll that’s delicious, even without frosting—but you won’t want to skip the topping; it’s like spreading a layer of pumpkin cheesecake over the roll for even more pumpkin spice goodness.

For the Spice Mix

4 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon ground ginger

For the Dough

6½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting ½ cup sugar 1 tablespoon instant-rise yeast 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon spice mix (from above) 1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin (not pie filling), divided 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup milk 1 large egg

For the Filling

4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) unsalted butter, softened 1 cup light brown sugar 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon spice mix (from left) 1 cup chopped pecans

For the Pumpkin Frosting

8 ounces cream cheese, softened ¾ cup canned pumpkin, from above ½ teaspoon vanilla 3 cups powdered sugar 1 tablespoon spice mix (from left)

1. Make the spice mix: In a small bowl, combine the cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and ginger and stir to mix. Reserve. Line a large rimmed half-sheet baking pan with parchment paper. Reserve. 2. In a stand mixer or large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, yeast, salt, and 1 teaspoon spice mix, and stir to mix. 3. In a small pot, combine 1 cup of the pumpkin, butter, and milk, and stir over medium heat until it reaches 120-130°F on an instantread thermometer. Add the warm liquids to the flour mixture, then add the egg, stirring until mixed. Knead for 5 minutes, then scrape out into an oiled bowl. Cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap and place in a warm spot to rise for about 1 hour, until the dough has doubled in size. 4. While the dough is rising, make the filling. Mix the melted butter, brown sugar, flour, and spice to make a paste. Reserve. 5. When the dough has doubled in size, punch down with your fist. Then, pull the sides into the center and gently press into a loose ball. 6. On a floured counter, pat or roll dough to make a 15x18-inch rectangle. Spread the filling over the dough, leaving 1 inch bare on the edge across from you. Sprinkle with pecans. 7. Roll up the dough, jellyroll style (see box on page 32), and pinch the seam to seal. Place seam side down and use a sharp serrated knife to cut in four even cylinders, then divide each into three slices, to make 12. 8. Transfer to the prepared pan, spacing the rolls evenly. Cover the rolls with a damp towel or plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for about 1 hour, until puffed. Heat the oven to 350°F. 9. Bake the rolls for 25 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into a roll registers 190°F, or until the buns are golden around the edges. Let cool. 10. Make the frosting: In a stand mixer with the batter paddle inserted, beat the cream cheese, scraping down until completely smooth. Add the pumpkin and vanilla and beat to mix, scraping down and repeating until completely smooth. Add the powdered sugar and remaining spice mix and mix on low until combined, then raise the speed for 30 seconds or so to whip. Spread on the cooled rolls. The rolls will keep, tightly covered, for up to 4 days in the refrigerator.

Cook’s Note: For the spice mix, you could use 7 teaspoons prepared pumpkin pie spice.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 680, Fat: 24g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 60mg, Sodium: 280mg, Carb: 106g, Fiber: 5g, Sugar: 49g, Protein: 11g PESTO SCONE ROLLS

Pesto Scone Rolls

MAKES 8

You can skip the rising time of a yeasted dough with these scones, and they have a spiral of intensely flavorful basil pesto that makes them a savory treat to serve with wine. Plus, try with soup, a salad, or at breakfast alongside scrambled eggs.

For the Pesto

½ cup fresh basil ½ cup fresh parsley 2 tablespoons pine nuts 2 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon salt, divided 1½ cups shredded Parmesan cheese, divided

Quick-Rise Yeast Method

For the u est rolls in the shortest amount of time, these recipes use the quick-rise yeast method. Instead of mixing yeast with warm water to proof, you’ll mix the yeast with the dry ingredients, then warm the liquid ingredients to between 120-130°F. You’ll need an instant-read thermometer to test the temperature, and to insert in the baked rolls to make sure they have reached 190°F. If you don’t have one, it would be well worth purchasing one. They can be found for around $8 and are also an important tool for making sure meats are safely cooked.

PUMPKIN SPICE ROLLS WITH PUMPKIN CHEESECAKE FROSTING

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for pan

For the Dough

2 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold ¾ cup buttermilk

1. First, make the pesto. In a food processor bowl, combine the basil, parsley, pine nuts, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ cup Parmesan. Process until a thick paste is formed, then scrape down and drizzle in 1 tablespoon olive oil. Process to mix. Scrape out into a small bowl. 2. Heat the oven to 375°F and lightly oil an 8-inch round cake pan and reserve. 3. Make the dough: In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and the remaining salt, mix, and then stir in ½ cup Parmesan. 4. Use the coarse holes of a grater to shred the cold butter into the flour mixture, tossing the butter shreds to coat with flour. Stir in the buttermilk, just until barely mixed, and use your hands to press and turn the mixture until all the flour is incorporated. Don’t knead. 5. Sprinkle counter with flour. Place dough on the flour and press out to make a 9x9-inch square. Sprinkle and spread pesto mixture over the dough, patting to spread evenly, leaving 1 inch bare on the side opposite you. 6. Roll up the dough, jellyroll style (see box on page 32), ending the cylinder seam side down. 7. Use a serrated knife to divide in half, then cut each half in four even slices. Place the rolls in the pan, placing one roll in the center and arranging the rest around it. 8. Sprinkle the rolls with the remaining ½ cup Parmesan and bake for 15 minutes, until the edges are golden brown and the rolls are firm. 9. Cool on a rack for 5 minutes before serving, or cool completely and wrap tightly and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Nutrition (per serving):

Calories: 290, Fat: 17g (Sat: 9g), Cholesterol: 35mg, Sodium: 860mg, Carb: 27g, Fiber: 1g, Sugar: 2g, Protein: 10g

Savory Gruyère and Walnut Rolls

MAKES 12

These whole-wheat rolls, filled with tangy Gruyère and crunchy walnuts, are a light meal in themselves. With a hint of Dijon mustard and fresh sage in the spiral, you’ll crave these for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, and they are worthy of being included in your holiday meal. You can also save time by using frozen whole-wheat bread dough—just remember to thaw it overnight in the refrigerator.

For the Dough

3½ cups whole-wheat flour 2 teaspoons quick-rise yeast 1 teaspoon salt 1¼ cups warm water (120-130°F) 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons honey

For the Filling

3 tablespoons Dijon Mustard 6 ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded 2 tablespoons fresh sage, chopped ½ cup chopped walnuts

1. Make the dough: In a stand mixer bowl or large mixing bowl, combine the whole-wheat flour, yeast, and salt. Stir to mix. 2. Warm the water to 120-130°F (use an instant-read thermometer to check) and stir in the butter and honey to melt. Using the dough hook or a sturdy spoon, stir the liquids into the flour mixture. When mixed, knead for 5 minutes. The dough should be soft; it’s OK if it’s a little sticky. 3. Transfer to an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm spot for 1½ hours. 4. Heat the oven to 375°F and line a large sheet pan with parchment paper and reserve. 5. Lightly flour a counter, and pat or roll dough out to a 12x15-inch rectangle. Spread evenly with Dijon, then sprinkle with Gruyère, sage, and walnuts, leaving 1 inch bare at the side opposite you. 6. Roll up, jellyroll style (see box on page 32), tucking in any of the filling that falls out. Let the roll rest, seam side down, for 1 minute, the use a serrated knife to cut across the cylinder, dividing it into four even sections, then slicing each of those into three even rolls. Place the rolls on the sheet pan, leaving 2 inches of space between them. Loosely cover with plastic wrap, waxed paper, or a barely-damp kitchen towel. Let rise for 1 hour, until puffed. 7. Bake for 25 minutes, until golden brown and firm when pressed. Transfer to a cooling rack. Serve warm.

Cook’s Note: You could use two (2-pound) loaves whole-wheat frozen bread dough in place of the dough recipe here. Thaw the dough according to package directions, then flatten each piece of dough to a 1-inch-thick rectangle, then stack one on top of the other and press to flatten and form one solid sheet. Let the dough relax if it becomes hard to roll.

Nutrition (per serving):

Calories: 260, Fat: 11g (Sat: 4.5g), Cholesterol: 20mg, Sodium: 280mg, Carb: 32g, Fiber: 2g, Sugar: 3g, Protein: 9g

SAVORY GRUYÈRE AND WALNUT ROLLS

GLUTEN-FREE CINNAMON ROLLS

Gluten-Free Cinnamon Rolls

MAKES 12

Just because you are avoiding gluten doesn’t mean you can’t have a cinnamon roll! In this recipe, you build from a gluten-free all-purpose blend, which contains xanthan gum. These are baked in a muffin pan, which makes it easy to get beautiful results.

For the Dough

12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, divided, plus 1 tablespoon for greasing tin 1 cup milk 5 tablespoons sugar, divided 1 tablespoon quick-rise yeast 3¼ cups Pillsbury Gluten-Free AllPurpose Flour Blend 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 2 large eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla

For the Filling

1 tablespoon cinnamon 3⁄4 cup brown sugar 3⁄4 cup raisins

For the Glaze Frosting

2 cups powdered sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter 2 tablespoons milk

1. Get a 12-cup muffin tin and use butter to thickly grease the cups. Reserve. Heat oven to 350°F. 2. Melt 6 tablespoons of the butter to use in the dough, and let the rest soften at room temperature. 3. Warm the milk to 110-115°F and place in a bowl or cup. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the sugar and the yeast and let bloom for 5 minutes. 4. In the bowl of a stand mixer (using the paddle attachment) or a bowl using a handheld mixer, mix the flour blend, remaining4tablespoons sugar, baking powder, and salt. 5. Add the yeast mixture, melted butter, eggs, and vanilla. Mix slowly until combined, then beat on high for 2 minutes. 6. Mix the brown sugar and cinnamon in a cup. Sprinkle cornstarch on a clean counter. Scrape out the dough and form into a rectangle about 12x18 inches, sprinkle with cinnamon mixture, and cover with raisins. Roll up, forming a spiral, and use a sharp, serrated knife to divide into four even cylinders, then cut each of those into three even slices. Place each into the prepared muffin cups. Cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap and let rise 1 to 11⁄2 hours, until the rolls have puffed and filled out the cups. 7. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until puffed and golden. Let cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then run a paring knife around each roll to loosen. Place a sheet pan or large platter on top of the pan, holding tightly as you flip the two pans, inverting the rolls onto the sheet pan, and allow to cool before glazing. 8. Make the glaze: Combine the powdered sugar, vanilla, and melted butter and stir, then drizzle in the milk, stirring to make a pourable glaze. If you glaze the rolls while warm, it will melt into the rolls, and if you wait until the rolls are completely cooled, you can drizzle it decoratively over the rolls.

Cook’s Note: These rolls were created and tested with Pillsbury Gluten-Free All-Purpose Flour Blend. If a different gluten-free blend is used, results may vary.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 420, Fat: 15g (Sat: 9g), Cholesterol: 65mg, Sodium: 310mg, Carb: 69g, Fiber: <1g, Sugar: 36g, Protein: 5g ■