Cozy Comforts

Embrace the relaxed pace of mountain life with recipes rooted in the peaks.

RECIPES BY LIZZIE KAMENETZKY AND KELLEY EPSTEIN

Winter can be a wonderful season of family time and meals of comforting foods. Traditional comfort food holds special importance in places like the mountains where the cold can be fierce. Certain meals might help provide a feeling of warmth and evoke memories centered on love and cheer. Sometimes these foods can be as simple as a fresh loaf of bread or a warm pudding, both of which inspired Lizzie Kamenetzky’s book “Fireside Food for Cold Winter Nights.” She grew up spending many happy holidays in the Swiss Alps, where residents use local foods and specialties to make hearty food filled with flavor and warmth for cold days. She was taken by these delicious meals and designed the recipes in “Fireside Food” to have roots in the small mountain towns of Europe while involving a well-balanced combination of classic and modern ingredients.

“We move so fast through our lives, always rushing, never enough time to cook, to eat, to enjoy, but in the mountains, life slows down,” Kamenetzky writes in the intro to her book. “You can’t get anywhere fast in the mountains, so you might as well relax and let it wash over you.”

Those who enjoy the mountains for the winter pastime of skiing may be aware of the phrase “après-ski.” Simply meaning “after ski,” this marks the time of day when skiers leave the mountains and settle down for drinks and food with new and old friends alike. This time of day is usually when the slopes close, but Kelley Epstein believes that enjoying après shouldn’t only be for skiers, and winter is the perfect time to indulge. The title of her cookbook, “Après All Day,” says it all. It features snacks and easy meals to warm you up, and dishes perfect for a winter potluck. Food next to a crackling fi re in a snowy setting is the epitome of cozy, and the recipes from these books evoke that feeling of contentment and happiness whether your home is in the mountains or on a city street. –samantha johnson

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “FIRESIDE FOOD FOR COLD WINTER NIGHTS: MORE THAN 75 COMFORTING AND WARMING RECIPES” BY LIZZIE KAMENETZKY ©2015 AND 2021 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM RYLAND PETERS & SMALL. PHOTOS BY NASSIMA ROTHACKER.

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “APRÈS ALL DAY: 65+ COZY RECIPES TO SHARE WITH FAMILY AND FRIENDS” BY KELLEY EPSTEIN © 2021 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM CHRONICLE BOOKS. PHOTOS BY REN FULLER.

Zwiebelkuchen

MAKES 4 SERVINGS | FROM “FIRESIDE FOOD”

This delightful onion bread (as it literally means) is something of a cross between a tart and a pizza. The soft, squidgy dough melds with the tender sweet onions and the tang of sour cream. –lizzie kamenetzky

¼ ounce fresh yeast (or ¼ ounce sachet dried yeast) ½ cup low-fat milk, just-warm, divided 1⅓ cups all-purpose our ½ teaspoon ne sea salt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled 1 egg yolk

For the Filling

2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 pound 2 ounces (about 4 medium) onions, thinly sliced ½ teaspoon caraway seeds ⅔ cup (scant) sour cream 1 egg Sea salt

1. Line a 14x10-inch roasting pan with baking parchment and set aside. 2. Mix the yeast with 3 tablespoons of the warm milk and leave until it is frothy. Tip the our into a bowl with the salt. Make a well in the center and add the yeast, the remaining milk, melted butter, and egg yolk. Mix until you have a soft, slightly sticky dough. Knead well on a lightly oured surface for 10 minutes then put in a clean bowl and cover with lightly greased plastic wrap and leave in a warm place for 1 hour or until doubled in size. 3. Meanwhile, melt the butter for the lling in a pan and fry the onions with the caraway seeds and a good pinch of salt over low heat for 35 to 40 minutes until really softened and golden brown. Tip into a bowl to cool. 4. Heat the oven to 400°F. 5. Roll out the dough and use to line the prepared roasting pan. Leave to rise, covered in lightly greased plastic wrap for 15 to 20 minutes. 6. Mix the onions with the sour cream and eggs. Spread over the top of the dough and leave to rise for 10 to 15 minutes. 7. Bake in the preheated oven for about 30 to 35 minutes until golden. Cool on a wire rack. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

SCHNITZEL WITH WARM POTATO SALAD

Schnitzel with Warm Potato Salad

MAKES 4 SERVINGS | FROM “FIRESIDE FOOD”

Traditionally made with veal, schnitzel is equally delicious when made with pork or even chicken. A schnitzel should be lovely and thin with a crisp, golden casing of crumbs. Here they are served with a classic German potato salad that has a tang of vinegar and pickles to offset the creamy dressing. –lizzie kamenetzky

1 small white loaf, preferably 1 or 2 days old 4 veal escalopes, about 4½ ounces each 2 tablespoons all-purpose our 1 extra-large egg, beaten 1 tablespoon heavy cream Vegetable oil, to fry 2 tablespoons unsalted butter Sea salt and ground black pepper Lemon wedges, to serve

For the Potato Salad

1 pound 10 ounces waxy new potatoes, halved 1 red onion, thinly sliced 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 3 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons crème fraîche A pinch of super ne sugar 12 cocktail gherkins, nely chopped 1 tablespoon gherkin liquid A few sprigs of fresh tarragon, nely chopped A small bunch of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves nely chopped

1. Heat the oven to 225°F 2. Remove and discard the crusts from the loaf and whiz it in a food processor or blender to form coarse crumbs. Spread the crumbs onto a baking sheet and cook in the preheated oven for about 1 hour to dry out slowly—start checking them after 30 minutes. Once dry, whiz again to make ne crumbs. (You can keep any you don’t use in an airtight container for several weeks.) 3. Put the escalopes between two pieces of baking parchment or plastic wrap and bash with a meat tenderizer or rolling pin until they are as thin as possible, without tearing meat. 4. For the potato salad, put the potatoes in a pan of cold salted water and bring to a boil, then simmer for 15 minutes until just tender. 5. Meanwhile, put the onion in a bowl with the vinegar. When the potatoes are cooked, drain them, and mix with all the remaining potato salad ingredients, including the onion and vinegar. Season well with salt and pepper and set aside. 6. Season the our with plenty of salt and pepper and put in a shallow dish. Beat the egg with the cream and put in a second dish. Put 3 cups of the crumbs in a third dish (or more if you need to). 7. Heat a good layer of oil in a large nonstick frying pan/skillet. Dip each of the escalopes into the our, shaking off any excess, then coat in the beaten egg and nally the breadcrumbs. Make sure the escalopes are completely coated. 8. Add the butter to the pan, and once it is melted and foaming, add the escalopes. Fry for 1 to 2 minutes on each side until golden. You may need to cook them one or two at a time, depending on the size of your pan. 9. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and the warm potato salad.

Goulash Soup

MAKES 6 SERVINGS | FROM “FIRESIDE FOOD”

This Hungarian dish spread into the mountains, where it is always popular in the huts and cabins as a hearty meal on the slopes and trails. There is a healthy kick of paprika with the added richness of sour cream, which helps to make this one of the most warming and comforting dishes. This is also delicious made with pork instead of beef—use a slow-cook cut such as shoulder/butt and cut it into large chunks. –lizzie kamenetzky

Olive oil, to fry 3¾ ounces bacon, nely chopped 2¼ pounds braising steak or beef shin, cut into 1-inch chunks 2 heaping tablespoons all-purpose our 2 large onions, thinly sliced 2 red bell peppers, deseeded and sliced 3 garlic cloves, crushed 5 juniper berries, crushed 2 bay leaves 1 tablespoon sweet smoked paprika ½ tablespoon hot paprika 2 teaspoons caraway seeds 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 5 cups beef stock 11 ounces waxy potatoes, cut into chunks 2 beets, cut into chunks Sea salt and ground black pepper Freshly chopped parsley and sour cream, to serve

1. Heat a good layer of olive oil in a ameproof casserole or large saucepan and fry the bacon over medium heat until it starts to color. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon and set aside. 2. Dust the beef in the our with plenty of seasoning, then brown in batches over high heat in the same pan, adding more oil if necessary. Remove and set aside with the bacon. 3. Add a little more oil to the pan and add the onions and bell peppers. Fry for 10 minutes until the peppers are softened and the onions start to color. Add the garlic, juniper, bay leaves, and spices, and fry for a few minutes before adding the tomato paste, vinegar, and stock. 4. Return the beef and bacon to the pan and season well. Bring to a simmer, then cover and cook for 2 to 2½ hours until the beef is starting to become really tender. 5. Add the potatoes and beets to the pan and simmer, with the lid off, until the vegetables are tender. 6. Stir in the parsley and serve in large, warmed bowls with generous dollops of sour cream.

Savory Sausage and Cheddar Muffins

MAKES 12 MUFFINS | FROM “APRÈS ALL DAY”

One of my teammates brought these crazy-delicious muffi ns to a potluck celebrating the end of tennis league play. I was smitten at fi rst bite and asked for the recipe. Perfectly savory, almost biscuit-like, and yet still light, they are a staple in my kitchen. –kelley epstein

8 ounces breakfast sausage 12 cherry tomatoes 1½ cups all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon fine salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup buttermilk 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1 large egg 8 ounces shredded sharp cheddar (or Swiss) cheese ½ cup chopped green onion, white and light green parts only 1 teaspoon coarse salt

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Line a plate with paper towels. Grease and lightly flour a standard 12-cup muffin tin. 2. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage, breaking it into small crumbles with a wooden spoon, and cook until nicely browned. Remove from the heat and transfer the sausage to the paper towel–lined plate to drain. 3. While the sausage is cooking, slice the cherry tomatoes about 1⁄8 inch thick. Lay the tomato slices on a paper towel and cover with another paper towel to remove the excess moisture. 4. In a large bowl, combine flour, baking powder, fine salt, and pepper. 5. In a small bowl, combine the buttermilk, melted butter, and egg. 6. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir just to combine—lumps are okay! Fold in the cooked sausage, grated cheese, and green onion. Take care not to overmix. 7. Divide the batter evenly among the 12 muffin cups. 8. Top each muffin with 2 or 3 tomato slices. Sprinkle with a pinch of coarse salt. 9. Bake 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from oven and let rest 10 to 15 minutes in the tin before removing and cooling on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to 3 days or freezer up to 1 month.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS | FROM “APRÈS ALL DAY”

I love nothing more than an easy, prep-ahead meal, and the slow cooker gives me the ability to do just that. This creamy chili is the marriage of two family favorite recipes: enchilada suizas and ranch chicken tacos. This is a true throw-and-go slow cooker recipe that you can prep in the morning, and by the time you come home from your morning ski or snowshoe, lunch is ready! –kelley epstein

1¼ pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs (see Cook’s Notes) Half of a 1-ounce package ranch salad dressing mix ¾ cup diced sweet onion 1 large garlic clove, minced 1 (15-ounce) can corn, drained 1 (15-ounce) can great Northern beans, drained 8 ounces salsa verde 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth ¼ cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon cornstarch 2 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature Corn chips or tortilla chips, for serving Lime wedges, for serving Fresh cilantro, for serving Chopped red onion, for serving

1. Add the chicken thighs to the crock of a slow cooker. Sprinkle with the salad dressing mix. 2. Add the onion, garlic, corn, beans, salsa, and chicken broth. 3. Cover and cook on low 4 to 5 hours, or until the chicken is cooked through and shreds easily. It will literally almost fall apart when done. 4. Transfer the chicken to a large plate. Shred the meat and return it to the slow cooker. 5. In a small bowl, mix the heavy cream with the cornstarch. Stir until the cornstarch dissolves. Stir the cornstarch mixture and the cream cheese into the chili. Cover and cook on low for 30 minutes more, or until the cream cheese is melted and the chili is creamy. 6. Serve with bowls of chips, lime wedges, cilantro, and red onion for everyone to choose from!

Cook’s Notes:

■ Chicken breasts will work if you prefer, but thighs will have more flavor and won’t be as dry. ■ Any green enchilada sauce or salsa will work here.

SAVORY SAUSAGE AND CHEDDAR MUFFINS

SLOW COOKER RANCH CHICKEN CHILI

Cast-Iron Tortilla Pizza Four Ways

MAKES ONE 12-INCH PIZZA | FROM “APRÈS ALL DAY”

If you like thin, crispy pizza crust, then you’ll love these. My favorite is the margherita; my oldest loves the ham and pineapple, and my husband and youngest love the classic cheese. So simple to make, these get gobbled up faster than I can produce them!

NOTE: My boys usually eat one and a half to two of these depending on how hungry they are. Because I have only one cast-iron pan, we cut them up and eat these family-style as they come out of the oven! –Kelley Epstein

CLASSIC CHEESE PIZZA

1 teaspoon olive oil 1 (12-inch) flour tortilla ¼ cup marinara or pizza sauce ½ cup shredded whole-milk mozzarella

1. Set the oven to broil. 2. Heat a large cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil. Once shimmery, spread the oil around the skillet with a paper towel to absorb any excess oil. Put the tortilla in the center of the skillet. Top the tortilla with the marinara sauce, spreading it all the way to the edges. Sprinkle evenly with the mozzarella cheese. Cook for about 2 minutes, just until the underside of the tortilla is brown and crispy. Be careful because it can burn quickly! 3. Put the skillet under the broiler and cook for 60 to 90 seconds, or until the cheese is melted and bubbly and the tortilla starts to brown at the edges. 4. Remove from the oven and transfer the pizza to a cutting board. Let rest for 2 to 3 minutes before cutting into eighths. Serve immediately.

MARGHERITA PIZZA

1 Classic Cheese Pizza (recipe above) ½ Roma tomato, thinly sliced 2 basil leaves, torn into small pieces Pinch of coarse salt

1. Assemble the pizza as directed for the classic cheese pizza. 2. Top the cheese with the sliced tomato and torn basil. Cook as directed. When you remove the pizza from the oven, sprinkle with salt.

HAM AND PINEAPPLE PIZZA

1 Classic Cheese Pizza (recipe above) 2 slices deli ham, cut into bite-size pieces 2 tablespoons thinly sliced canned pineapple chunks Reduced balsamic vinegar, for drizzling

1. Assemble the pizza as directed for the classic cheese pizza. 2. Top the cheese with the ham and pineapple. Cook as directed. Finish with a drizzle of reduced balsamic vinegar.

PEPPERONI PIZZA

1 Classic Cheese Pizza (recipe above) 8 pepperoni slices

1. Assemble the pizza as directed for the classic cheese pizza. 2. Top the cheese evenly with the sliced pepperoni. Cook as directed. ■ CAST-IRON TORTILLA PIZZA FOUR WAYS

Nutrition Information:

“Fireside Food” Goulash Soup (per serving):

Calories: 440, Fat: 19g (Sat: 7g), Cholesterol: 110mg, Sodium: 880mg, Carb: 27g, Fiber: 4g, Sugar: 11g, Protein: 41g

Zwiebelkuchen (per

serving): Calories: 470, Fat: 21g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 140mg, Sodium: 350mg, Carb: 61g, Fiber: 5g, Sugar: 19g, Protein: 12g

Schnitzel with Warm

Potato Salad (per serving):

Calories: 900, Fat: 36g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 205mg, Sodium: 1180mg, Carb: 68g, Fiber: 5g, Sugar: 11g, Protein: 46g

“Après All Day” Savory Sausage and Cheddar Muffins (per

serving): Calories: 260, Fat: 12g (Sat: 5g), Cholesterol: 80mg, Sodium: 160mg, Carb: 20g, Fiber: 4g, Sugar: 4g, Protein: 20g

Ranch Chicken Chili (per

serving): Calories: 230, Fat: 16g(Sat: 8g), Cholesterol: 55mg, Sodium: 660mg, Carb: 14g, Fiber: <1g, Sugar: 2g, Protein: 9g

Cast Iron Tortilla Pizza Four

Ways (per each whole pizza)

Classic: Calories: 560, Fat: 25g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 45mg, Sodium: 1220mg, Carb: 60g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 5g, Protein: 21g

Margherita: Calories: 570, Fat: 25g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 45mg, Sodium: 1230mg, Carb: 63g, Fiber: 4g, Sugar: 7g, Protein: 22g

Ham and Pineapple:

Calories: 620, Fat: 26g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 60mg, Sodium: 1760mg, Carb: 64g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 8g, Protein: 29g

Pepperoni: Calories: 640, Fat: 32g (Sat: 14g), Cholesterol: 60mg, Sodium: 1480mg, Carb: 61g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 5g, Protein: 24g