Copbookfinal

Menswear Lifestyle & Design

A investigation into the influences, interests and design motives of Gregory Ball

2

Introduction Welcome to the design context publication of Gregory Ball. This publication aims to give synthesis and context to the practical work and briefs i have undertaken on the course during 3rd year, through investigation and evidencing of my interests, passions and values both in and outside of Graphic Design.

The publication will focus primarily on three parts: Menswear, Lifestyle and Design. Focusing on quality menswear brands and retailers, communicating my love and passion for good quality clothes, and focusing on my love for finding alternative media and journalism primarily through independent magazines.

And then of course focusing on my interests and design ethos within Graphic Design, to give an overall feel for my values and who i am as a person and how this syntheses with my design practice.

My opinions, analysis, reflection, evaluation, articulation and words will be written in bold text and denoted by a footnote e.g “Words by Greg Ball�

Part One - Menswear Oliver Spencer A.P.C Edwin Denim Norse Projects Grenson Mr Porter Independent Fashion Film Steve Booker Buckets & Spades Monocle Inventory

Part Two - Lifestyle Another Escape Travel Almanac VSCO Instagram & Lifestyle Photography 12hrs Travel Guides Case Study: Green Soccer Journal

Part Three - Design Studios Branding Web Design Film Making Photography Case Study: GF Smith Evaluation

Colophon

Part One - Menswear

Oliver Spencer Oliver Spencer personally are one of my favourite British brands. There understated clothing never fails to impress, season after season. The cut and fit of the garments are always superb, they fall and tuck in all the right places to give a brilliant silhouette. From the stone mac (pictured top left), perfect for a spring day paired with a pair of chinos as much as a rainy winter worn over a suit to give a smart day-wear outfit a weatherproofed look. To the Fishwick trouser, cut superbly to taper at the ankle to give a perfect slim fit thats not too skinny nor to straight.

Its really the quality and details of Oliver Spencer clothing that set it apart from the normal high street brand, quality fabric handled and manufactured within the EU. The addition of a two-way zip like the Lambeth bomber jacket (pictured middle left) is just one of these little details that you would not find on other brands of clothing.

Another brilliant thing about Oliver Spencer is that the clothing is not so serious, it balances perfectly on the tightrope between casual and formal-wear. You can so easily dress it up or down, pairing a shirt with chinos and sneakers would offer a nice casual day outfit, but then the addition of a unstructured blazer and some brogues would effortlessly dress up the outfit for the night-time; you could even add a pocket square for a bonus sartorial point.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs from Oliver Spencer

4

Part One - Menswear

Vulpine are launching a limited edition cycling blazer that’s the result of a collaboration with British menswear designer Oliver Spencer. The tailored blazer, designed for urban cyclists to wear both on and off the bike, is shower proof and features several bike-friendly touches. Oliver Spencer, based in London and a cyclist himself, reckons that his clothing combines ‘modern fits with old style construction’ and this hook up with Vulpine is his first ever performance wear collaboration.

The idea is that the blazer can be worn comfortably on the bike and look smart when you arrive at your destination. Vulpine say, “Oliver led the overall design with his knowledge of fit, British style and manufacturing whilst Vulpine advised on performance specific cuts along with subtle, practical features, making the ideal jacket for the modern cyclist.” The navy jacket is made in England from a water-resistant cotton and boasts several features that add to its function on the bike. You get underarm vents to stop you overheating, for example, while the reflective fabric used at the neck lining, fold-back cuffs and rear vent is designed to make you more visible on the road. You can button up the lapels to keep cold air out. Although the cut is essentially classic, the arms and back of the jacket are slightly longer than those of traditional outerwear in order to suit a riding position.

The blazer is available in sizes from 36in to 46in and it’s priced at £295. This is the first in an ongoing partnership between

5

Oliver Spencer and Vulpine which will expand to include a womenswear offering for Autumn/Winter 2014. Vulpine is slightly more than two years old and in that time they have done a great deal, led by their passionate founder Nick Hussey.

Anyone who follows Nick on Twitter knows that he is anything but corporate and he is an interesting contrast to some of the ‘style’ brands that take themselves so seriously.

Vulpine’s stated aim is to create “stylish cycling apparel” which “marry technical fabrics, fit and construction with fine British tailoring and design, so you can wear the same garment for ride and destination.”

The Vulpine X Oliver Spencer (I assume that it is that a multiplication sign there but who knows, perhaps X is short for collaboration in Soho?) cycling jacket is the first time these two companies have worked together, although Hussey has been friendly with Oliver Spencer (who is a real person) for some time. The Vulpine website explains: “When British menswear designer Oliver Spencer and Vulpine began talking jackets over a coffee, this was the result - The Cycling Blazer. The ultimate in sartorial cycling style; tailored to be comfortably worn on the bike and cut to be suitably smart on arrival.”

Oliver Spencer x Vulpine Cycling

Words by Road.cc Photographs from Oliver Spencer

Part One - Menswear

6

A.P.C

APC have fast becoming one of my favourite brands, the fit of everything is just perfect from denim to knitwear. And of course the you don’t even need to question the quality.

Based in France the Parisian brand have always had a brilliant reputation, not the most out there brand but does what it does so, so well.

There selvage denim jeans are some of the best out their and have gained a reputation with denim enthusiasts as hard to beat. Initially very stiff and somewhat uncomfortable, they fast become the comfiest and best fitting jeans you have ever had all they need is a few weeks of wear. They also wear really well the creases and whispers form beautifully and it really is a pleasant raw denim journey, my pair of Petit Standards where the first selvage raw denims i bought and i do not regret it one bit.

Whilst the clothes are in the high price brackets if you manage to get something on sale then you have the bargain of a lifetime, i recently got a Breton jumper from the Mr Porter sale and it is without a doubt the best jumper i have ever owned, i normally struggle for the right neckline on crew neck jumpers, they normally leave my collar gaping if the top button is not done up, but not with APC the fit is impeccable.

From a design point of view, the effortless branding and beautiful photography are the perfect reflection of the clothing and the brand as a whole.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs from APC

Part One - Menswear

7

APC’s new shop has just slipped on to Dover Street in Mayfair with the same minimal fuss that gives its clothes a cult following.

The influential French label’s appeal has always defied neat description. When it opened in 1988 it was dubbed “the French Gap” for its clean-cut twists on classics. It sometimes looks a bit unisex, uniform-like, with coats and knitwear that do for boys and girls. But that’s not the whole story.

Unlike the clothes he designs, you wouldn’t call Jean Touitou, APC’s founder, understated. He’s known for being outspoken and doesn’t disappoint on the phone from his holiday. Here he is on Italians: “Basically they have terrible taste.” Or designer handbags: “You make more money with a ‘hit-bag’ than if you were a international cocaine dealer.” He was a teenager in 1960s Paris and his anti-authoritarian my-way-orthe-highway attitude makes him a refreshing figure in the fashion world (a little of that Left Bank cool always has a place in APC’s collections too).

Easy as A.P.C

If Touitou comes over a bit, well, arrogant at times, you’ve got to admire his integrity. Over the years he has turned down numerous offers from the big boys to expand (there are around 35 APC outlets worldwide): “I prefer to be very precise in what I do.” He wouldn’t dream of name-checking his famous customers and is often quoted saying there are already too many shops in the world. Too many or not, on a Saturday morning late in August, his new shop on Dover Street was five minutes late opening. Already a small gaggle had formed by the door: a French woman and her daughter, a cool-looking Japanese lady in her 50s with a pixie hair-cut and a young London trendy. Apart from their general chic-ness they didn’t seem to have much in common, which says something about the label’s draw across size, age and fashion tribes. You don’t get earth-shattering changes from season to season with APC. Its autumn/winter collection features beautifully textured knitwear, some of it with a nautical anchor motif. As ever, the coats are impeccable: a herringbone women’s wool trench and, for men, a stylish parka with a removable shearling lining. Plaid is an APC staple and there’s a great shirt, which for boys comes in a pyjama cut with rounded collars. For girls it’s ruffled on the front (paired in the catalogue with a tight leather zip-up skirt for a bit of vroom).

Touitou dismisses criticism that APC can be a bit same-ish. He compares what he does to a tailor’s approach: “They would do the same thing all the time but change it slightly. Things evolve.” One constant, however, is the jeans. Denim fanatics go crazy for APC raw jeans: cardboard-stiff till you get some wear into them, they fit like a dream thereafter. Fashion designer Hussein Chalayan recently told style.com he wears APC slim fits until “they can walk off on their own”.

There used to be an APC shop in west London, on Ledbury Road, which shut says Touitou when the landlord put the rent up by 500 per cent. “I was stupid enough to close it,” he explains. “Maybe I should have been more of a cynical person, and think, ‘OK, I will make the client pay.’ But I never want prices to be too high.” That said, APC isn’t cheap; priced slightly below secondary lines such as Marc by Jacobs, and See by Chloé. Touitou also works with the designer Jessica Ogden on a range called Madras, which incorporates her colourful prints. “He gives me a lot of room to have my signature, which I think is very unusual with a company,” says Ogden, and adds that the intensity of research that goes into the choice of cloths at APC is impressive: “It’s not just fashion for fashion’s sake.”

It’s reassuring to know that APC style is not going anywhere.

Part One - Menswear

Edwin Japan Edwin Japan are one of my favourite brands when it comes to quality denim, the ED-55 range is such a perfect and comfortable fit, i am yet to try the selvage pair but my normal 10.3oz Japanese Denim pair are one of the comfiest pairs of jeans i have ever worn. Currently outstripping my APC’s in the race for top denim spot.

The wear of these jeans is also impeccable, since getting mine this Christmas they have probably been worn pretty much non stop since and they are started to wear beautifully, the creases and whispers are adding brilliant personality and story to a great pair of denim.

As a brand Edwin’s philosophy is quite simple when it comes to the jeans: use quality Japanese denim, keep the fit simple and make sure each pair is of superior quality. And this makes for a pretty unbeatable formula which has gained them a loyal and large following in the world of jean lovers. The lookbooks for every season are always brilliant too look at too the styling is always a bit different from other brands and really allows you to see what you could do and what to pair with your denim.

Overall, one of the best and most reliable brands out there.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs from Edwin Japan

8

Part One - Menswear

9

Edwin Europe have collaborated with Edwin Japan to create the “ED-55 Made in Japan�, using 14oz Vintage Selvage Denim, exclusively developed by the famous Japanese denim mill, Nihon Menu. This very special edition ED-55 celebrates Japanese workmanship and craftsmanship, combined with the unmistakable European styling of the ED-55. This particular fabric respects the traditional methods of denim-making with no pre-shrink processing. During the wash process, the denim will shrink by an estimated 1.5 sizes, so we recommend up to eight domestic washes before this denim fits to size. Of course, in our humble opinion, the best alternative is to simply not wash them.

Edwin or often capitalized, EDWIN, is a Japanese clothing brand founded in 1969 by Edwin Company mainly focused on jeans manufacture. The company has 365 employees and a revenue of 35 billion yen (as of 2002) according to the official site. The company has the largest flagship fashion store in Japan in Arakawa, Tokyo.

Part One - Menswear

10

Norse Projects

Norse Projects are probably one the first brands that got me into good quality menswear, they integrated with the clothes already in my wardrobe and where the perfect start on the journey to upgrade the clothes i was wearing. The clean and basic nature of the clothes due to the company originating in Scandinavia, a country known for its clean, quality clothing and its well dressed natives.

The brand also appealed on so many other levels, the design and photography the brand uses within there identity and marketing aligned with my own design style and interests, which immediately made me like them. The first thing i bought from Norse was a Norse x Elka collaboration raincoat and soon as it arrived i knew it was a brand i was going to continue going back to for a long time. The construction and fit of the garment was second to none, and it was everything you want and need from a raincoat. Made out of rubberized cotton it is completely water and windproof but also not too heavy. It is perfect for layering on top of other things and can be worn with most day wear winter outfits.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs from Norse Projects

Part One - Menswear

Since the Danish brand was established in 2004, each Norsecollection has challenged the set standards in men’s fashion.

Reinventing classics with state of the art functionality, artisan quality, and a keen eye for the understated detail has been the main objective. All the while, managing to walk the thin line between the ultra-modern and traditional menswear.

Enter: The Norse Projects line of jeans.

As Norse explains, “the brand is very much built upon classic archetypal designs, so the first jeans were intended to reference the raw, dry goods feeling of the original American denim brands. We stripped away anything we found unnecessary and offered the jeans in three different fits.” This was back in 2010.

The jeans were made in a plain white-lined Turkish selvage denim. With the recent update, which launched in November 2013, a redline denim has taken centre stage, and a fourth modern fit has been introduced.

The four Norse fits: - One Jean – Straight leg fit. This model has the most relaxed fit of all the models - Two Jean – Slim fit. A lower rise and slimmer leg and hem - Three Jean – Tapered fit. A mixture of One and Two, relaxed seat with a tapered leg and hem. This fit is based on the well known and very popular American icon.

- Four Jean – Skinny fit. A new fit introduced AW13. It’s made of a Japanese 11 oz. black denim with 2% stretch. For occasions when indigo isn’t right. This is the slimmest model.

The real biggie in the update is neither the introduction of the fourth fit nor a new selvage-line colour. It is the choice of fabric and the little details that truly stand out. Each fit has unique design details, like the shape of the back pockets, which set them apart from each other. The buttons and rivets have all been updated and simplified. A heavier pocket bag fabric and lined back pockets provide greater strength and durability.

Other small changes are more subtle – such as raised fabric in the middle of the belt loops, to prevent excess wear on the stitching – but are equally as important for the overall quality.

And the jeans are still made in Europe with a specialized denim factory. And oh yeah, the new redline selvage denim of the Ones, Twos, and Threes, is sourced from Cone Mills White Oak in North Carolina.

As all true denim heads will know, Cone Mills have been supplying some of the best American denim brands, such as Levi’s and Lee, for decades. So it comes as no surprise that Norse Projects, with their focus on tradition and quality, have chosen this last American producer of denim for their jeans. As explained by Norse Projects, “updating to Cone Mills White Oak denim was an important step for us.”

“The idea was not to replicate a pair of old jeans one-to-one, but to use this classic denim which is in some ways the ‘benchmark’ fabric for such an iconic pant. When you see the White Oak fabric up close after some washing it breaks into an amazing deep blue colour, the fabric is a little rough and has great depth.

We wanted to frame the unique rough feeling of the fabric in a clean and simple modern design.”

Facts about Norse Projects jeans (One, Two, and Three): - Cone Mills White Oak denim - 13.75 oz. 3×1 RHT (right hand twill) - Raw, sanforized redline selvage denim So, there you have it. Everything you need to know about the new Norse Projects jeans, which are all available for €161 (DKK1200/$218).

Words by denimhunters.com Photographs from Norse Projects

11

Part One - Menswear

12

Grenson

Grenson are a brand i have admired for a very long time and probably one of the first brands that got me properly into menswear and quality clothing.

Based in Northampton, England. The business has always been owned by family’s or single people, starting off the with Green family who owned Grenson for more than 100 years before selling it to the Purslow family, who in turn sold it to the current owner Tim Little in 2010. Tim himself is very passionate about menswear, the quality of the product and most importantly keeping the Grenson ethos the same as it has always been and has made an effort to bring the history of the brand to the forefront.

Grenson offer so much in terms of footwear from casual chukka boots to a triple welted brogue for those special occasions and everything in between, there really is no need to buy shoes from anywhere else. My personal favourite are the Archie brogues with the Vibram sole, these provide enough smart shoe to be able to wear it with a suit but also enough casual for them to be an everyday shoe paired with raw denim jeans or chinos. These are one of the comfiest and well constructed shoes I’ve ever worn, if not the best. They certainly aren’t the cheapest pair of shoes out there, but they are most certainly an investment but in my opinion worth every penny.

Also the way they showcase their products is of massive appeal, i feel the styling is always spot on, showing the versatility of the shoes.

And the collaborations with other independent businesses are always brilliant, the recent announcement of a triple welted collection for END is exciting, this is always a good quality in a brand too.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs from Grenson

Part One - Menswear

Starting in 1866, a shoe factor by the name of William Green came regularly from Northamptonshire up to the City of London to get orders and then take them back to Rushden where, in 1874, he opened his first factory as William Green & Son, founding the company we know today as Grenson.

Here at the centre of the old factory, intoxicated by the smell of new leather, I took a moment to appreciate this extraordinary industrial structure, designed to admit Northern light from rows of windows in the roof, creating an interior space almost ecclesiastical in its luminosity. Ancient photographs, Now that Grenson ledgers, racks for have opened time cards and two shops in most importantly Spitalfields, I set out to follow William Green’s footsteps back old machines – well-maintained and working as well as ever – to where it all started. In his time – and until quite recently – attest to more than century of shoe making within these walls.

Northamptonshire was renowned as the centre of the British shoe industry. Yet although those days are gone, the red brick Nearby, a bevy of local ladies manned sewing machines and Grenson factory, turreted at one end, still stands majestic other cunning devices, joining pieces of the uppers together among the little terraced streets at the heart of Rushden, just and punching those wonderful patterns that characterise the as it did when William Green opened it in 1895. brogues which are a specialty here. This is known as the closing department. On the floor below, these uppers are moulded The appealingly named Roger Tuffnail, pattern cutter, was my around the last and attached to the sole using the famous guide -“My grandparents were blacksmiths,” he explained Goodyear Welting process. Sewing a strip of leather around by way of introducing himself,“and I always understood the the upper to join it to the sole makes it more waterproof and surname originated from that.” I could not help admiring Roger’s permits the option of removing the entire sole in years to come venerable brogues, cut from his own patterns. “Because I work which means the shoe can be refurbished almost endlessly. in a shoe factory, I do not polish my shoes,” he confessed with This takes place in the lasting and making department. Once a blush and a shy smile in response to my compliment. In fact, the heel is attached, the “making” of the shoe is complete and Roger is a key employee at the Grenson factory where he has then after careful finishing, trimming, stamping, waxing and worked since 1981.“I cut the patterns that make the uppers of buffing, it arrives in the boot room where Sharon Morris fits the the shoe, creating the style from a drawing,” he explained. laces and Mavis Glen gives it a good polish. The whole process has taken three weeks to make as beautiful a pair of shoes as “I just naturally do it,” Roger added – just in case I should get an you could wish, in the traditional manner. inkling how skillful he is – opening an old ledger full of drawings of shoes as he cast his mind back, “I was seventeen when I Yet this magnificent factory is not, as you might assume, some joined the shoe trade – in the clicking department.” Minutes arcane endeavor quietly fading into obsolescence, like so many later, we stood in the clicking department where foreman of the other Northamptonshire shoe factories that have gone Robert Taylor – who knows a trick or two with a knife – revealed forever. Instead, Grenson is enjoying a renaissance. that this name derives from the sound the blade makes when you pull it out from thick leather, once you have finished cutting Words by Spitalfields Life round the patterns.

Photographs from Buckets & Spades Blog

A Visit to the Grenson Factory

13

Part One - Menswear

Mr Porter Since launching in February 2011, MR PORTER has established itself as the premier global online retail destination for men’s style. Editorial content sits alongside the latest products from more than 170 of the world’s leading designers, including Gucci, Givenchy, Burberry, Lanvin, Alexander McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana and Richard James, as well as specialist brands such as John Lobb and Valextra.

Mr Porter is one of my favourite destinations to buy clothes online, the range of quality brands they offer is second to none.

From high end fashion labels like Maison Martin Margiela to quality British brands like YMC and Oliver Spencer; there really is something for every man interested in quality clothing right along the spectrum. Also, the Mr Porter sale is something to look out for, it is very popular with the stylish and sartorially inclined gent looking to pick up a bargain.

Over the past few years the brand has really focused on its offering outside of the clothing to really showcase a lifestyle focused on quality in every aspect from, clothes to how to make the perfect cup of coffee at home. They have also launched the Mr Porter post a monthly paper sent out to customers that serves as a magazine more than anything else, featuring selected outfits for the coming seasons, interviews and lifestyle features with a variety of different people and topics.

To sit side by side with this they have also started to produce there own short films and videos for their YouTube channel, a platform that is becoming increasingly popular with menswear enthusiasts and brands, these have various topics from “The Style Clinic” answering viewers queries about style, “The Way I Pack”, a feature on how various normal Mr Porter customers in various careers pack for a business strip and “Style Debates”, which usually take place at various menswear fashion shows featuring prominent figures within menswear.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs from Mr Porter

14

Part One - Menswear

15

Case Study: Oliver Sweeney - Fashion Film

Oliver Sweeney where a brand always well known for the quality of their clothing, but in my opinion used to project a slightly older image fitting for a country gent or older city worker. That was until they started producing short fashion films and posting them to their YouTube channel, these films collaborated with more current figures from the menswear industry and started to breathe a new younger life into the brand.

Starting with the launch of their Compass Collection of sneakers this was enforced with a series of films featuring men in their 20’s and 30’s talking about the sneakers, and this really started to get a more current audience looking and taking an interest in the brand, it definitely impacted me and my personal interest. This has since been followed up by collaborations with the Sartorial 7 a style collective from London trying to spread a sartorial message, and due to the other collaborations they have been doing have become quite active on the internet and this is what really peaked my interest in Oliver Sweeney and the clothing because I’d already seen these guys doing things with other brands. I think these have been the most successful videos in terms of what seems like the brands attempt at targeting a younger more current and connected audience, they have had engaging content, showcased the product and also been well shot.

This is something i think for my practice i would want to investigate further and film-making is an area i would like to pick up some further skills and fashion film is where i would want to ply these skills.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs from Oliver Sweeney

Part One - Menswear

16

When Sweeney set up his own company in 1989, he began developing his techniques with the aim of creating a kind of ‘demibespoke’ product: shoes that were factory-made but of a quality reminiscent of the bespoke pairs worn by the likes of Cary Grant and James Stewart. So Sweeney’s shoes are sold ‘off-the-shelf’ but each customer should feel he is buying and wearing a bespoke product.

The key, perhaps, is the hand-finishing - the polishing, brushing and staining - which gives exceptional character to the leather, turning a plain brown into a deep rich polished- wood brown, quite unlike any shoe available in the high-street stores. Sweeney encourages his customers to rub black polish into their brown shoes. ‘I hate bland colours,’ he says.

He has also developed his own last which, he claims, fits eight out of 10 men. His shoes are elegant and nostalgically narrow in appearance, but with sufficient width to fit the wider feet of today. He believes a shoe should support the arch of the foot properly, so he adds a deliberate hint of pressure at this point of the shoe to hold the arch in position. ‘People complain of tired feet when their arches drop,’ he says. ‘Proper support can actually strengthen the arches.’

Quality British Shoes

Sweeney needs little encouragement to launch into a masterclass of shoe design. The heels, for example, are made from leather with dovetail quarter rubber tips, and a line of brass pins so that the foot does not slip. His ‘Storm’ Derby, a plain shoe with a rubber sole, is more hard-wearing, but even here the inner layer (the insole) is made of leather, allowing the foot to breathe and also enabling it to sink into the base, forming an outline of the underside of the foot.

Sweeney is a romantic as well as a technician. He calls his shoe styles after the cinema greats. Bogarde is the name for his semi-brogue. Then there is Connery, the plain Oxford; McQueen, the Storm Derby; Pacino, the full-brogue; Poitier, the brogue Cambridge; and Redford, the chukka boot.

Words by The Independent Photographs from Oliver Sweeney

Part One - Menswear

17

Steve Booker

Steve Booker is a menswear and lifestyle blogger and YouTube creator. Based in London and focusing on quality menswear the content of Steve’s blog brings a freshness to menswear blogging, the short but well written posts are complimented by the brilliant photography on the blog. He also posts infrequent videos to his YouTube channel, these focus on complimenting the content of the blog giving it a different dimension.

The most recent post and video combination featured a visit to Salvage Coffee in Sydney, Australia. An independently run coffee shop that was one of the first in Sydney to focus on great quality coffee bought straight from the growers. In the post and video Steve talks to the owner about the coffee and about the business. Focusing on these small independent business Steve covers a places that are sometimes ignored by more mainstream blogs. He is the perfect example of the new niche culturally aware male consumer emerging, a consumer who is interested in the origins, quality and the support of independent business when buy products.

I absolutely love reading and watching Steve’s content and along with Buckets & Spades have sparked an interest in Fashion and Lifestyle journalism that i didn’t know i had and have made me consider how i can use my interests, passions and design skills to produce something with in this subject area.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs from Steve Booker

Part One - Menswear

Buckets & Spades Blog

Buckets & Spades is a Fashion, Design and Lifestyle blog run by me, Mat and with a little help from Hollie, Yasumi + Nik. Buckets & Spades is about sharing design, creative ideas, menswear, style and all things we love in life. We started the blog in 2008 as a means to store inspiring images and artists we’ve found, from then on it’s grown and is now more of a visual diary. I graduated from UCLan in 2011 and have continued my search for creative things ever since.

I discovered Buckets and Spades in late 2013 and it has been a staple read since. Updated daily with new content it is the perfect read for my morning commute to university.

Focusing on menswear and lifestyle, stories have included a visit to the Grenson shoe factory (see pg13), an SS14 edit with Cloth Clothing and a visit to the Loake factory in Nottingham. Reading this blog, along with the majority of the things covered in the first two parts of this publication, has really sparked an interest in Menswear and Lifestyle journalism, that i didn’t know i had. I have always been massively into and influenced by clothes, but i have never really thought i could but this interest, passion and my design skills together to produce something like my own blog, website or magazine, but it is something that i am going to seriously consider doing now, even just on the side or as a hobby.

Words by Greg Ball & Buckets and Spades Photographs from Buckets & Spades

18

Part One - Menswear

19

Individualism

Individualism is a collective dedicated to celebrating men’s style in original and entertaining ways. Our team consists of a small cluster of creatives from a variety of disciplines – all of whom share a passion for men’s style.

Since its founding by the brothers Aaron and Reuben Christian a few short years ago, team Individualism has grown into one of the most dynamic, respected, and influential style collectives, both on and offline.

In the past we’ve worked and collaborated with brands large and small, new and established. From Zegna to Hackett, MCM to River Island, Diesel to ASOS – we pride ourselves on collaborating with those that share our vision and values – and engaging with an audience that respects the same.

Individualism showcase everything good about the possibilities for mens fashion blogs on the internet, incorporating all of their skills together to create a great and successful blogs.

What i really like about Individualism is that they write, style, photograph and produce all their own content, and this give a sense of uniqueness to the content on th blog.

Words by Greg Ball and Individualism Photographs from Individualism

Part Two - Lifestyle

Magazine and Journals

Launched in February 2007, Monocle is a global briefing on international affairs, business, culture and design headquartered in London. In print Monocle’s 10 issues a year are dense, book-ish and collectable and call on a global team of staff editors and over 30 correspondents from Beirut to Milan, Washington to Singapore.

Online Monocle focuses on broadcast and has become one of the most viewed news sources in many of our key markets. Our journalists report from around the world and craft films that are more documentary in form rather than a collection of clips.

And we h a v e m a d e over 250 of them to date.

And then there’s Monocle 24, our round-the-clock radio station that launched in October 2011 and is broadcast from our headquarters at Midori House in Marylebone.

You can listen live via our player at monocle. com, as well as downloading shows from our site or iTunes; we also have a handy app. The station delivers news and comment, plus magazine shows covering a range of topics including food and drink, urbanism, design and print media. Our news gathering operation will soon stretch to new bureaux in São Paulo and across Asia, as well as more correspondents in emerging and established territories.

Via our shops in New York, London, Toronto, Tokyo and Hong Kong we sell products that cater to our readers’ tastes. We also have cafés in Tokyo and London, while you’ll find Monocle kiosks in the best Hyatt hotels.

Monocle. Keeping an eye and an ear on the world.

Monocle

Words by Monocle Photographs from Monocle

20

Part Two - Lifestyle

21

“Inventory began as an outlet for us to write about products and things we were interested in personally,” explains editor-in-chief and creative director Ryan Willms. Together with a small team including fashion director Simon Roe and managing producer Owen Parrott, Willms carefully curates international menswear brands with quiet, exacting discipline. “A lot of the brands, people and products we were interested in were not getting much coverage at the time so we decided to interview and photograph the stories we wanted to read ourselves,” he adds.

Usually when I hear this from emerging designers or young magazine editors, I take it as a sign that they haven’t done any market research. When Willms says it, I really believe him.

Inventory

Interestingly, Willms first gained credibility as online editor of the much lauded h(y)r collective, and grew Inventory from there to include a printed magazine, an e-commerce store and most recently, a studio-cum-shop in the heart of Vancouver’s Gastown district. “We decided to start printing the magazine because the photography and interviews we were getting were so good and in-depth, that we felt they deserved to be printed,” he says. “There wasn’t another magazine focused on this area of menswear. We felt confident that we would be able to find people to invest in a printed magazine that covered the same kinds of stories.”

Willms’ hypothesis is being proven correct. Inventory is selling briskly, having successfully tapped into a growing interest in staple menswear brands amongst industry tastemakers.

Margaret Howell — a designer renowned for a pared-down aesthetic, but not her public persona — is the unconventional cover star of the magazine’s second issue, which saw its print run increased by sixty percent to 8,000 copies. Colette, Dover Street Market and Beams — who apparently share Willms’ belief in appreciating “products and clothing for more than just their appearance” — are amongst the more than 75 international retailers and boutiques who carry the magazine. And many more requests to stock Inventory are coming from other stores around the world. All of this has been achieved with no outside help. The magazine’s entire distribution is handled internally.

The recently-opened Inventory Stockroom carries the same products that are featured in the pages of the magazine, artfully merchandised with sparse urban sophistication. Standouts included a yellow Rangoon jacket by Nigel Cabourn, an indigo tote bag by The Real McCoys, and a military insipired Ashfield Jacket from Engineered Garments, originally made as an exclusive collaboration with Beams Plus in Japan.

Words by Business of Fashion Phototgraphs from Inventory

Part Two - Lifestyle

22

We all get those moments in life when we experience, if only for a second, something that utterly inspires us; we want to be a musician, a dancer, a bee keeper, a circus performer. It may be the overwhelming desire to collect new experiences, travel, or learn a new skill or language. But what if we actually played on these inspirations-turned-aspirations?

It is exhilarating to find individuals enthralled by their own lifestyle, people who inquisitively investigate their confines and comfortability and that feel creatively ambitious, whether it be in the most minute way or by a colossal change. We can take away from these energetic individuals fuel for our own

Another Escape motivation, and Another Escape looks to tap and bottle this invigorating subject matter, and subsequently encourage others to actively explore their own aspirations. We are big fans of the printed word (and image), and wanted to create a well designed tactile object that could slot onto your bookcase, sit on the coffee table or be slung into a rucksack. We believe that the interaction and experience that printed material allows is invaluable, and we look to be a permanent fixture on your shelf.

Through our ethos we have created a magazine that looks to inspire and explore. In the future we look to expand our brand, but for now we are happy telling stories.

Words by Another Escape Photographs from Another Escape

Part Two - Lifestyle

23

How did The Travel Almanac start?

In 2009 I met John Roberts, who is now my partner at the magazine. We both have music production and DJ backgrounds and were releasing music on the same record label at the time, Dial Records, which is run by our friends Peter Kersten and David Lieske, who now own the wonderful art gallery Matthew in Charlottenburg. I had been playing around with the idea of starting a magazine for a while but it was not until unsuccessfully trying to come across a readable and halfway decently designed magazine on the topic of traveling during a layover in London that I became aware of the potential of this genre.

The Travel Almanac Paul Kominek

Most other travel publications at that point were mainly one-dimensional promotional tools for the travel industry and I would go so far as to say that the term ‘travel-magazine’ was frowned upon by anyone who had a shred of taste and style. I presented John with the idea to change this status quo and we were instantly on the same wavelength with it. We then spent almost two years developing the final concept and coming up with a visual language that suited our needs and would set us apart from everything that was out there.

We printed 4,000 copies of our first issue in the Spring of 2011 with David Lynch on the cover, and they sold pretty much instantly. We hadn’t really thought much about specific numbers at that point and as everything was selffinanced, there was no money to print more and that´s why Issue no. 1 is pretty hard to come by nowadays. We’ve gradually printed more with each issue and recently reached 22,000 copies, which was a big milestone for us. We plan to go even further next year, extending our worldwide presence into more tradition travel outlets, such as the airports of America.

Part Two - Lifestyle

24

Do you think you’ll have to make concessions to appeal to that more mainstream audience?

I actually don´t see us as much of a niche magazine, but rather an entirely new type of publication with the potential to appeal to quite a large audience; more specifically a new generation of readers who are rediscovering the uniqueness of printed publications. Whether or not ‘mainstream’ still actually exists is another topic entirely I suppose. But at its core, The Travel Almanac is an interview magazine featuring conversation with well-known cultural figures (such as David Lynch, Harmony Korine, Matthew Barney, etc.) on the topic of travelling and presented to readers in a relatable manner.

Was that always the intention when you first sat down in a Berlin café in 2009 and started talking about the magazine you wanted to make?

The interview core was really the starting point. We said, “let’s just speak to people that we love – cultural icons who are really interesting – but let’s talk to them about subjects they aren´t asked about constantly.” This is why our interviews with those well-known personalities usually are much more personal and intimate than the average interview. Travelling habits and experiences say a lot about a person and are at the same time very universal and thus make for a great way to break the ice in a conversation.

It’s very rare that I’d normally read a hotel review because the reality is I’m probably not going to go there, but your reviews are so beautifully written and so interesting that I want to read them all. I’m not being handed everything on a plate, and that makes it so much more interesting.

Thank you, that´s nice to hear. From the start, we were more interested in literary travel writing, and more artistic representations of a place in contrast to traditional hotel reviews that contain mostly dry information compared to other locations in order to give you a ‘bang for the buck’ evaluation. Instead, our hotel texts should give a sense and feeling about a place through the eyes of someone who shares similar values as you.

The reading experience is what is most important and we definitely draw from and find inspiration in a very rich history of travel literature and writing, maybe even more so than from travel journalism. We’re always more interested in the stories of these places than whether it has a nice pool or whatever. The same is true throughout the magazine. Even if we’re featuring products, it usually comes in less of a descriptive text and more in an essay form, about how a perfume might make you feel, or the sensation you might have wearing a certain shoe – reality always mixed with a bit of fiction. Or in our most recent issue, an essay on the history of stockings and their relevance to sexual liberation as exemplified by the traditional manufacturer Fogal from Switzerland.

You have this tension between fantasy and reality running through the magazine, and one place where I see that is the Travel Log at the back, where you have these lovely blank pages for people to fill in with their own notes. Do you really expect people to write in there?

I’ve heard from a lot of people who actually do while they’re travelling, yes. But that also has to do with our format – it was part of the concept from the start to create a pocket-size publication which you can take along when traveling, enjoy and get inspired by while on the road, in contrast to heavy and non-mobile coffee table books and magazines. The blank pages are also supposed to enforce its preciousness as an item full of memories that is for keeping and not a magazine that you throw away once you’ve read it. Some people even buy a second copy so they can keep one pristine and write in the other.

Ah! So it’s a cynical ploy on your part to make everyone buy two copies!

That’s absolutely right, yes.

So who’s on your next cover?

It’s a bit early to say, as our most recent issue has just been released, but I can tell you that it is going to be our first female cover. We never planned to have only men on the cover, but somehow it turned out that way. It has seemed to be more difficult to get the fabulous women that we like for interviews (we have an ever-growing list of people who we’d like to interview and it’s about half and half men and women), but we’ve found it much easier to get men for whatever reason. I´m not sure if it´s a general issue and am still trying to figure that out, but we’re getting there.

Words by Stack Magazines Photographs from The Travel Almanac

Part Two - Lifestyle

VSCO

VSCO is an art and technology company building an ecosystem of digital tools, services and community for modern creatives.

We are unabashedly by “creatives, for creatives,” dedicated to those that make, build and create with reckless abandon.

Formed in 2011, the company is based in Oakland, with offices in Colorado Springs and New York City.

This is about all of us, the creative community, banding together for the sake of beauty and doing what we love. This is about pouring every ounce of blood, sweat and tears into something worth believing in. This is about the power of art for art’s sake and the belief that a photo can change perspectives, moods, and lives. This is about a worldwide movement of millions creating for the love of craft and community.

It is this community ethos and support of creative people that i love about VSCO as a company, it is refreshing to see this in a different more niche and interesting way than the way in which Adobe supports creative people. VSCO focus on a certain lifestyle, a lifestyle that includes doing things independently, exploring and having community and they promote this in a variety of different ways.

The primary product VSCO offers is film emulation filters for Lightroom and Photoshop, these are professional filter used to emulate old film stocks and are used by a variety of different photographers. And it is here where VSCO starts to support creative people, featuring photographers and creatives who use VSCO products on their weekly selects, or feature videos.

The recent launch of the VSCOcam app for the iPhone has seen the community grow massively and of course with this you do get people using them in the same way you would use Instagram filers, but if you are a decent photographer and know what your doing VSCO can really add something else to your work.

Words by Greg Ball Words by VSCO Photographs from VSCO

25

Part Two - Lifestyle

26

Instagram & Lifestyle Photography

“Lifestyle Photography” has evolved hand in hand with services like Instagram, i see a lot of what i would call lifestyle photography; photography that shows a snapshot into an individuals different lifestyle this could incorporate a whole range of things from menswear, interiors to coffee culture.

It is something i find extremely engaging and interesting, maybe this is reality TV making its way onto the internet.

Instagram and the like really are reality TV esque services, you follow someone and you get a snapshot into their life on a daily basis. Its the content, inspiration and community that can be found on these type of services is brilliant, and its apparent to see that brands are starting to use this sort of image styling (see images above) in their lookbooks and marketing campaigns.

But, it is the concept of getting a look into other peoples lives that i find most interesting, maybe its because I’m naturally intrigued by things or because the human race is a nosey bunch; either way i thing this “Lifestyle Photography” craze will continue to grow and grow, and will make its way into mainstream media in a matter of no time.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs from Instagram

Part Two - Lifestyle

12hrs

12hrs is an independent travel guide by Soren Jepsen and Anna Peuckert, they say “We love to travel. We also love design, and music, and fashion. And we were missing a website full of travel tips for people like us. Somewhere between the backpackers and the luxury hotels. With tips that aren’t about money, but about great discoveries from all around the world. So we built 12hrs.”

I really like how 12hrs pack everything you can do into one day, but when reading the guide, whilst your time is regimented it doesn’t feel so regimented that following the guide would be a chore; i think its a really great concept. I also love how they differentiate themselves from the normal travel guides by not focusing on the main tourist attractions but what would be considered “where the locals would go” type places such as small independent businesses, family run restaurants and shops that sell quality clothing and books.

The photographs above are taken from the guide for East London, a part of the capital that i really like and inspires me quite a lot, the style and edit of the photography is something i also like about these travel guides and another way they differentiate themselves from the normal travel guides.

These style of travel guides seem to be cropping up more and more recently, building on Wallpaper’s “different” travel guides, Rapha cycling have released guides for city cycling in Europe and magazine Cereal have also started the website “Guided by Cereal”.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs from 12hrs

27

Part Two - Lifestyle

28

10AM — GRØD We are starting our day in Nørrebro, an area that remains high up on the cities’ hipster index for years. It’s here you’ll find vegan snack bars, tiny vintage shops, and on the weekends, most of the cool kids.

Copenhageners like it healthy, lots of restaurants and grocery shops offer a large variety of organic options. Obviously, these healthy treats often come with a rather hefty price tag attached to them. Our breakfast destination is a wonderful exception from that rule.

‘Grød’ means ‘porridge’, and that is exactly what Martin Daniali and Lasse Skjønning Andersen serve in their shop and café. Breakfast bowls start at only 35 DKK, and with options like spelt porridge with chestnut purée, apple and toasted almonds, you’ll have plenty of energy for the long 12 hours ahead of you.

Copenhagen

10.30AM — SUPERKILEN A short, ten-minute detour that is so worth it! Built by Superflex and the famous BIG architects, Superkilen is an urban park divided in three areas, red, green, and black. We’ll have a look at the most impressive one of them all, the Red Square. This is a playground for adults, with giant souvenirs from all over the world. Everything here is covered in red paint. Take a look around at some of the weird artifacts. People from more than 50 different countries are living in Nørrebro, and some of them got the chance to pick out items for the park. You’ll see a Donut sign from Tennessee, the famous Osborne bull from the south of Spain, and benches from Brasil. Superkilen also gives you a good idea why architecture from Denmark is so famous.

11AM — ASSISTENS KIRKEGÅRDEN On your way back, take a stroll through the famous Assistens cemetery. No matter how busy the city around you might get, between the tall trees it’s always peaceful and quiet. Several famous people are buried here, among them Danish national hero Hans Christian Andersen, Søren Kirkegaard and several American jazz musicians who lived in Copenhagen during the Fifties and Sixties, such as Ben Webster and Kenny Drew. It’s easy to spend a whole afternoon here, but don’t get lost! Our day has just begun.

11.30AM — ADELIÉ Walk all the way back towards Guldbergsgade, back to the wordly pleasures of fashionable small shops of the area. Among them is Adelié. Tikkie Oestrich alias Adelié is one of Denmark’s most beloved fashion bloggers. For a while now, she brings her impeccable style to her online shop, where she sells items from her most beloved (and mostly Danish) designers, such as Stine Goya, Peter Jensen, and Libertine-Libertine. If you prefer real-life shopping to a virtual shopping bag, you are lucky. In 2012, Tikkie opened a tiny store on Guldbergsgade in Nørrebro. Here, she sells all the great finds that are featured in her online store.

After paying her a visit, continue down the street. You’ll pass more small shops, nice cafés, and probably run into some good looking Danes dressed all in black. At the end of the street, you’ll reach Sankt Hans Torv, a popular hangout and meeting point.

11.40AM — ACNE ARCHIVE Pass the square, and turn right into Elmegade. Right at the beginning of the street is the Acne Archive. The Swedish brand has a stylish flagship store in the city center that we’ll visit later, but the new Archive is definitely worth a visit, as well.

Here, you’ll find show pieces and clothes from previous collections for a fraction of their original price. The stylish outlet carries items for both

Part Two - Lifestyle

women and men, although the selection for the girls is much bigger. Good luck hunting for that dreamy leather jacket at 80% off!

11.45AM — CLARKE’S A one-minute walk down the street from the shop you’ll see the very popular cafe Clarke’s. If you feel for a little caffeinated pick-me-up, do it here. The coffee is great, and the baristas know what they’re doing. They’re also handsome. All of them.

Once you’re done, turn left on Nørrebrogade and walk straight. The street leads you over Dronning Louises Bro, a bridge over the Sortedams lake. Once the sun comes out, this is where everybody sits in the sun. It’s a beautiful walk, so take your time. Take in the scenery, and continue down until you spot two big halls on your right.

12.15AM — WOODWOOD MUSEUM Before you enter these, cross the street to your left for a last bit of bargain hunting.

Somehow, Scandinavians know how to run an outlet store so much better than the rest of us. No messy piles of clothes, no ugly leftovers and not only items in XXS or XXL. WoodWood Museum is a great example for that.

The outlet of the popular Danish brand (we’ll take a look in their regular store a bit later) carries their own designs plus a big selection of brands that they sell in their shop for women and men. If you look around a bit, you can find tons of Kenzo, Gitman and Opening Ceremony pieces at up to 70% off.

Inside, the shop is nice and the staff friendly – yet another thing that makes the Museum stand out from regular outlet stores.

Now, head over again to enter Torvehallerne.

12.30PM — TORVEHALLERNE Food heaven! Torvehallerne is a covered market, similar to those you might find in Spain, Italy, or even London. But since this is Scandinavia, everything here seems a bit more organized – and well designed. More than 80 vendors sell their goods inside, so the selection is breathtaking. There is fresh fish from the Baltic Sea, tiny cupcakes from famous bakery Agnes, and tons of specialty items from different Danish regions, such as ox-meat sausages or rhubarb juice from Bornholm. A lot of the booths sell snacks and warm meals, too. But hold your appetite, we’re having lunch in the city!

1PM — HENRIK VIBSKOV Head into the city, it’s time for some serious shopping. Danish fashion is world renowned for its simplicity, impeccable taste, and general style. One of the biggest names in that business is no doubt Henrik Vibskov. The Danish artist and designer is known for keeping his Avant Garde-vibe alive, while still pleasing the masses. His colorful knits and outlandish cuts are on display in his flagship store, as are affordable accessories such as his famous laptop sleeves or colorful socks. Also sold here: dreamy shoes from Minimarket and some items from Vibskov’s ex-partner, Danish fashion super star Stine Goya.

1.20PM — CONDESA In the past years, Copenhagen has developed quite a reputation as a foodie destination. Restaurants like Relæ, Kadeau and Noma are on the forefront of a new Nordic eating trend, promoting locally sourced, traditionally Danish produce. For many critics, Noma is actually the best restaurant in the world right now. Although we would love to either confirm or deny this today, changes are you a) haven’t made a reservation there months ago, or b) Michelin star food and the hefty price tag that entails aren’t exactly in your travel budget.

29

30

No worries, there is another way! We’ll have fantastic Danish food for dinner, and will go a bit outside the (Danish) box for lunch. At Condesa, you’ll get served great Mexican food without that painful cheque at the end. Their great lunch menu includes sandwiches with either Pork, BBQ Steak or Tofu on them. Make sure to order the Spicy Fries with it. Other choices include oysters, ceviche and fresh salads.

2.15PM — CITY CENTER Content, relaxed, and ready to go after lunch, we hit the streets of the city center for some serious shopping. Instead of giving you a route, we’ll just tell you the must-sees, and you conquer them in whatever order you feel best with. These stores are all in walking distance to each other, and each of them is worth a visit.

WoodWood has become somewhat of symbol for fashion made in Denmark. The label started out as strictly street wear, and has gotten more sophisticated over the years. You’ll still find plenty of hoodies, caps and backpacks in their shiny new flagship store, but you’ll also be able to buy items from more exclusive brands like Band of Outsiders or Barbour.

Recently, they added their own line of women’s footwear to their portfolio.

Storm is going down that concept store road, too, with a stronger focus on high-end designer brands and big labels. Their book collection is great. The label Han Copenhagen became famous for their spectacle frames, and have since extended their range to beautiful menswear pieces. They offer classic cuts and shapes, and just the interior of the store is worth the visit. Swedish mega-brand Acne has not one but three stores in Copenhagen. And judging by the amount of Pistol Boots and Rita leather jackets that you encounter on any regular day in the streets of Copenhagen, that is warranted. In their biggest store, they sell both their women’s and men’s collections. Stine Goya is the darling of the Danish fashion scene. In her tiny, brand new flagship store in Gothersgade she sells her current collection and a few accessories from her line. The former model designs clothes for women that she herself would love to wear. Stine Goya trademarks are pastel colors, vibrant prints and relaxed cuts. Lastly, and right next door, there’s Norse Projects. This one is strictly for the boys as well. The little brand has seen some crazy hype around their baseball caps and shirts lately, and is sold in hip boutiques from Paris to New York. Their Copenhagen flagship store features all of their collection, plus some hard to find designer collaborations.

4PM — B54 Leaving the shopping area, there is one last stop we have to make. B56 is the wonderful shop of mother and daughter duo Hanne and Stephanie Gundelach, housed in a beautiful building a few steps away form the main street. Stephanie is one third of Denmark’s biggest fashion blog Anywho, and functions as both creative direcor and buyer for B56. Her selection of women’s clothes ranges from Danish favorites like Stine Goya and Peter Jensen to young and ucoming Scandinavian designers and Anywho’s own label, Brics, whose fantastic selection of winter coats always sells out fast.

4.20PM — SIGHTSEEING You’ll notice that we’re a bit away from the hustle and bustle of the main shopping streets now. This is the representative part of Copenhagen, the area with the Royal Palaces, churches, and the old harbour. Although our 12hrs guides tend to stay far away from the tourist-y parts of town, today we’ll make an exception.

From B56, we can already see the beautiful Marmorkirken, the church also known as Frederiks Kirke. Turning right, we are approaching the Royal palace Amalienborg. From here, we can access the waterfront and take a long stroll, soaking in some Scandinavian sun and sights, including the spectacular new opera house, the National theater and finally Nyhavn. This old part of the harbour is a magnet for tourist, but it’s also mighty pretty. Take a look

31

at the Lego-like colored buildings, but don’t be tempted to enter any of the restaurants around here. Instead, walk back to you hotel to rest those tires legs a bit and get ready for the night.

6.15PM — HOTEL FOX Opened in 2004 and (at that time) sponsored by car company VW, Hotel Fox features 61 rooms, each of them in a different design from one of the 21 artists that took part in the renovation. You can have a look online and preview all the rooms to find out what suits you best. What all rooms have in common: They’re pretty, the super healthy self-service breakfast in the lobby is included, and the location is unbeatable. Some areas would benefit from some touch-ups, but management changed recently, and we’re hopeful the old Fox is getting some new fur.

8PM — HÖST RESTAURENT After a hot shower and some rests, we’re ready to jumpstart our night in Copenhagen with a great dinner. Höst is a newly opened restaurant from the owners of super popular food destination Cofoco and eight other restaurants in the city. The interior looks as if it was taken straight out of an catalog for Scandinavian minimalist furniture, the walls are washed white, and the tableware rustic. All this is supposed to make you feel as if you were at a Scandinavian farmyard that somehow has been transported into the city environment. And it works! The food goes with this theme, focussing again on local ingredients and simple preparations. Go for the affordable threecourse menu, which costs 275 DKK (36 €/47 USD) and showcases what’s fresh on the market that day. Höst is the hottest dinner ticket in town right now, so to be sure to get a table, reserve one online on their website. Watch out: They close early on Sundays!

10PM — MEATPACKING DISTRICT Take a bus or taxi to Vesterbro and head into the Meatpacking District. This is the former red light district of Copenhagen, that has slowly been claimed by the hipsters as their nightlife Mekka. You might still see the occasional prostitute pass by, but behind the run-down facades, there are lofts and office spaces of media companies and fashion labels. This mix makes the Meatpacking district the most coveted nightlife area of Copenhagen, with tons of cool bars right next to each other in the old market buildings.

Take advantage of the happy hour at Karriere bar, a spectacular space with tons of art installations from superstars like Olafur Eliasson (he designed the giant ceiling lamps here). The barkeepers know what they are doing, so go for a cocktail.

Afterwards, pick one of the many clubs next door. We suggest Jolene, Bakken or Kødbodderne 18, all very close to each other. Spotting which party looks like the most fun tonight should be easy, people tend to hang out outside. If you want to prepare, check the club’s websites before you leave the hotel.

Skål!

Words by 12hrs Photographs from 12hrs

Part Two - Lifestyle

32

Case Study: Green Soccer Journal

Green Soccer Journal was one of the first independent football magazine to emerge focused on more meaningful and intellectual stories from the world of football which set it apart from mainstream mags like Four Four Two and was also targeted at a totally different audience; it all started so well. But GSJ has gone through about three or four different rebrands and has become confused about what it really is and who its audience are. At first it was a magazine priced around the ÂŁ8-ÂŁ10 region and contained beautiful photographs and well written and designed copy, but it then decided to rebrand as a more comprehensive magazine doubling in page count and bumping the price up to ÂŁ18. And also changing the design on the cover and logo of the magazine which caused it to miss the audience it was trying target and failed to differentiate itself from the mainstream competition. Since this they have rebranded yet again, going back to the original magazine format but changing the cover and logo design yet again, and once more in my opinion as a consumer fails to appeal.

This is the perfect example of a brand changing things too often and not honing in on one thing but trying to cover all the bases and failing because of this. Whilst it still has an audience i think its popularity has decreased since the original issues, and proves the need to have a strong, cohesive and targeted brand and identity.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs from Green Soccer Journal

Part Three - Design

33

Studios JOE AND CO SB Studio Smiling Wolf Turner Duckworth NB Studio Mammal Undercurrent Smith&Milton Black&Ginger Sawdust dnco Ideas by Music Poke BOB Design Socio Design IYA STUDIO Uniform DesignStudio Build Experimental Jetset BibliothĂŠque YES Spin Ranch Boxhead One Darnley Road Village Green Raw Six The Beautiful Meme Qubik Graphic Though Facility Fieldwork Rasmus Koch Studio Designbolaget Homework Kontrapunkt Two Times Elliot ico

Liverpool

wearejoandco.co.uk

Liverpool

sb-studio.co.uk

Liverpool

smilingwolf.co.uk

London & San Francisco

turnerduckworth.com

London

nbstudio.co.uk

London

mammaldesign.com

London

undercurrentbrands.com

London & Bristol

smithandmilton.com

Liverpool

blackandginger.com

London

madebysawdust.co.uk

London

dnco.com

Manchester

ideasbymusic.com

London

pokelondon.com

London

bobdesign.co.uk

London

sociodesign.co.uk

London

iyastudio.co.uk

Liverpool

uniform.net

London

wearedesignstudio.com

London

wearebuild.com

Amsterdam

experimentaljetset.nl

London

bibliothequedesign.com

London

yesstudio.co.uk

London

spin.co.uk

London

ranchdesign.com

Leeds

weareboxhead.com

London

onedarneleyroad.com

London

villagegreenstudio.com

Manchester

weareraw.co.uk

Leicestershire

madebysix.co.uk

York

thebeautifulmeme.com

Leeds

qubik.com

London

graphicthoughtfacility.com

Manchester

madebyfieldwork.com

Copenhagen

rasmuskoch.com

Copenhagen

designbolaget.dk

Copenhagen

homework.dk

Copenhagen & Osaka

kontrapunkt.com

London

2xelliot.com

London

icodesign.com

Part Three - Design

Heydays Manual Freytag Anderson StudioSmall STUDIOTHOMSON The Stone Twins 2br Praline StudioMakgill Sociates Proud Creative Wagstaffs Design Unit Family Useful Ragged Edge Cube Surgery PR 5k Futureproof goose Bureaux She Was Only here Goodhood Creative Rosie Lee Milky Tea Apposing Bolland & Lowe Well Made Studio Liquid Give Up Art Moving Brands Magpie Studio SEA Made Thought Retro Fuzz Mister Soon_

34

Oslo

heydays.no

San Francisco

manualcreative.com

Glasgow

freytaganderson.com

London

studiosmall.com

London

studiothomson.com

Amsterdam

stonetwins.com

London

2br.com

London

designbypraline.com

Brighton

studiomakgill.com

London

sociates.co.uk

London

proudcreative.com

London

wagstaffsdesign.co.uk

Leeds

weareunit.com

London

studio-family.com

London

weareuseful.com

London

raggededge.com

London

cubecompany.com

London

surgerypr.com

London

weare5k.com

London

futureproof.co.uk

London

gooseuk.com

London

bureauxdesign.com

London

shewasonly.co.uk

London

heredesign.co.uk

London

goodhoodcreative.com

London

rosielees.co.uk

Liverpool

milkytea.com

Liverpool

apposing.co.uk

Liverpool

bollandlowe.co.uk

Liverpool

wellmadestudio.com

Liverpool

liquidsolution.co.uk

London

giveupart.com

London, San Francisco & Zurich

movingbrands.com

London

magpie-studio.com

London

seadesign.co.uk

London

madethought.com

London

retrofuzz.com

Glasgow

studiomister.com

London

thisissoon.com

Part Three - Design

35

Branding

This branding for Goa Arkitektkontor by Oslo based studio Heydays, really stood out to me becuase of the simple use of type and grid layout. There is a perfect balance between the heavier logotype and the light copy type and i think this offers a really nice resolution to the peices of branding, i think by using this combination of type weights allows you to be more flexible in the way you design as you can add a lot more to, lets say a buisness card, by using a lighter weight of body copy because it allows the type to not look cluttered or too much for the small area you have to work with, and as you can see from the images on the left it works really well when done properly.

Another piece of branding by Heydays, this time for design studio “Studio Hansen�, the main thing that stood out for me with this was the concept behind it. Using a grid drawn out by the dots of each corner in the grid, allowed them to use it as an element to communicate the studios work through the identity And this in turn has led to some interesting applications of the identity such as the business card which be partly cutting the grid into circles has allowed a form of interaction with the business cards allowing whoever handles them to be able to punch out any of the holes they desire to create shapes; something a bit different to the usual business card.

I also really like the type used within the identity it is clean and simple but has really nice quirks that fit in with the industrial nature of Studio Hansen.

Part Three - Design

This piece of branding for British fashion brand Folk comes from London based IYA Studio. When i came across this studio i was amazed as it was what i had been searching for, for so long. A studio that works primarily with independent fashion brands, from what is available to see on their website. This branding for Folk is something i really like, i have liked it before i knew who it was by as Folk are one of my favourite brands, the choice of typeface and the layout really communicates Folk as a brand, producing functional clothing done well, and then the choice of imagery used communicates the playfulness and interesting elements of some of Folks seasonal pieces.

Another thing i like is how they have used the business card to further communicate the brand as a whole with the quote “Who said pleasure wasn’t functional?” and then just putting the normal details you would see on a business card along the bottom edge. This just shows that you don’t have to always put a name and number right in the middle of a business card and there is other more interesting things you can do.

This peice of branding by Two Times Elliot for architecture studio MDD9 really appealed to me because of its application and finishing. Using two different stock choices and but applying the branding in the same way creates two, what i think, very different outcomes in terms of what they communicate.

I would say that the grey version of the card communicates a much more serious approach and i would imagine the architecture company building a very serious style of building, but then the white version communicates a much more free flowing feel and i would imagine the company to maybe be open to building rather creative buildings. I think this has its pros and cons, it could end up with people being confused about the brand but on the otherside it could communicate a very clear image of the brand by appearing to be creative and serious. Another thing about the business cards in particular i like is i like the use of the blind emboss on the front and the emboss on the back, i think this makes the cards that little bit more tactile and precious to the receiver.

36

Part Three - Design

37

This branding for Little Black Book by Glasgow based studio Freytag Anderson appeals to me because of the use of type and organised layout. I also thing the logo is good, its innovative but still clean and simple in keeping with the layout and structure of the identity, by using the book icon and pairing it with the B i think would allow anyone to figure out that it is a little black book. And because this is for a client in the advertising industry i think it is perfect for the target audience.

The application of the identity across a range of products is also something i like and something i try to do when i am designing, this consistency across the indentity is something i admire when it comes to design.

Another piece of branding from Freytag Anderson for a film production and events management company. What i find interesting and really good about this is that the focus on creating a beautiful print based identity for a prominently digital brand, which is something thats maybe not normal but gives the brand a such greater appeal. Translating the beauty and quality of their digital based content in the form of film into a print based identity is done here in a really interesting way, using very clean type and layout in keeping with the Scandinavian roots of the client and then using big imagery with this type creates a really nice contrast, and then using finishing techniques such as embossing and perforating add a real quality to the work and in turn the clients brand.

Part Three - Design

38

Digital Design

This website for design studio Heydays is something i have really liked over the past year since i started to really engage with digital design. The modular layout and structure of the site is something that is so suited to showing off photographs or video so it is perfect for a portfolio site like this. Also the use of a long one page scrolling site is something that is becoming more and more popular within web design because it allows for a much more pleasant user experience and is aesthetically more pleasing than a traditional multi page website.

The use of a light typeface is something i also like about this it is something that looks much better on a screen than it does in print, and suits this type of clean, modular design.

The responsiveness of the site is also very nice making it a joy to use on all devices and could be argued that it looks its best at iPad size.

Part Three - Design

One page scrolling sites are fast becoming the norm and here is another great example for art directer Manuel Toccanne. What appeals to me about this is the use of black as the main colour making the site look very dark but adds a rather beautiful look to the site. This is something that you don’t see often, a very dark website, but here i think it works brilliantly to showcase the content, work with the target audience and suits the client very well.

I also enjoy the gridded layout of the site which suits the photography very well, and the offset of the type and that extra interesting element.

39

Part Three - Design

40

This website for Ouur Studio, the new offering from Kinfolk magazine shows how you can utilse the convention of one page scrolling sites with colour. Colour is something that i always think secondarily about as i am not usually that confident in using it but this example shows how much the addition of colour can bring to a website and work really well.

Also the use of a serif typeface in this site is different to what i have previously looked at and theres something that just works about serif typefaces when applied to the right outcome on a screen, and something i will look to implement in the future if the brief suits.

Part Three - Design

Film Making

Film making is something that has only recently become of an interest of mine, more because its something i haven’t done before and its the challenge of learning something new, much like when i started web design in second year.

I have always made little time-lapse videos with my GoPro like the one for the Work In Progress exhibition in college and these are always quite fun to do but not necessarily the most exciting thing to do. But when i had the chance to film Hungry Sandwich Club putting their window display up in Colours May Vary i thought it was the perfect opportunity to give it ago under no real pressure and if it wasn’t something i could do then so be it, but it turns out that the Hungry Sandwich Video looks rather good so maybe this is something i can build on and become involved in, in the future; even in a more Art Director role more than anything.

The film i really like are the short films made by brands and film-makers about fashion and small independent businesses. Like the middle photograph on the right, is from a short film made about Rocket Barbershop in London and it is a perfect little insight into the shop and the people behind it and this is what i really like. The images above and below that are from films by Japanese brand Edwin and British shoemakers Grenson, and these are both promotional videos for upcoming products, but not they are not your normal video adverts. They differ in the sense they are artistically shot and have a more meaningful narrative and it is this that conveys the quality and superiority of the products over other more mainstream brands.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs from Edwin, Rocket Barbershop and Grenson

41

Part Three - Design

42

Photography

Photography has long been a passion and a thing i have always done and was very close to being the degree i did. But i feel i have neglected photography in the past three years reserving it only for special occasions and the summer, and its something i regret not using in my work more. So after uni getting back into photography, providing it and using it for design work and also to keep documenting the world and people around me like i used to enjoy to do so much before second and third year.

I have a plan to travel to different places for short periods of time say, 48 hours and to capture the place and the people how i see fit and over a culmination of time and travelling to various places this will become a substantial body of work.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs by Greg Ball

Part Three - Design

43

Case Study: G.F Smith Rebrand

GF Smith have long been known as a provider of quality paper and their branding has reflected this quality and craftmanship of the paper they produce. Recently design studio Made Thought have rebranded them and given them a completley new image, a more youthful and current identity.

This has caused a mixed reaction some people thinking its the completley wrong way to go and is the total opposite of what GF Smith are seen as but also some people really enjoying the new direction. I’d tend to agree with the latter i think the refresh is exactly that, refreshing. I think it gives GF Smith totally differnt vibe, they are now for want of a better word ‘trendy and cool’ which differenciates them from the likes of Fedrigoni give a much more formal and mature feel from their brand.

I think time will tell to see if this is a wise move or not but at least now i feel they appeal and offer something different to the rest of the popular paper suppliers. They are ‘cool’ and thats not a bad thing to be really.

Words by Greg Ball Photographs from GF Smith

Part Three - Design

Evaluation On a whole i think this publications gives a broad, but in-depths look into my interests and how these influence by design practice. It also explores industries i would like to work in and the clients i would like to work with.

Most of all though i think the publication gives more context to who i am as a person. Focusing on my interests within menswear fashion, lifestyle brands and magazine; my passion for and commitment to buying quality products in particular clothing and my belief in supporting small, independent business. And also my quest to get away from mainstream media and finding a new source of media and more often than not a more interesting source of media giving a totally different outlook on life and the world, and this can be seen in the magazines i read and have looked at throughout this publication.

And of course all of the above naturally influence my design tastes and the type of design work i like to do and i think this is completely without doubt evident within the briefs i have undertaken this year and the work i have produced for these briefs; pairing this with my graphic design ethos of cleanliness and structure, which is evident from the design i have looked at in this publication, i think you get a good sense of the synthesis and context of my work between my interests in and outside of strict Graphic Design.

44

45

Colophon 45 single pages at 210 x 297 Inside pages - one colour on Pistachio GF Smith colorplan at 120gsm Cover - 250gsm grey card Fonts Used InternFinal Akkurat Pro Regular Akkurat Pro Bold All images are the property and copyright of their respected owners, this publication exists only in an educational research environment.

Published by Gregory Ball at Leeds College of Art, 2014