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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

THE GOLD LIST 2020 THE EDITORS’ ALL-TIME FAVORITE PLACES TO STAY

EXCEPTIONAL TRAVEL EXPERIENCES EVERYTHING CLASSIC. EVERYTHING OUTSTANDING

Your haven to do nothing.

Or absolutely everything.

Santorini, Greece by Steve McCurry

THIS IS OUR HOME, OUR SEA. ENJOY IT. LET US TAKE YOU CLOSER TO THE AUTHENTIC BEAUTY OF THE MEDITERRANEAN

For more information, contact your Travel Advisor, call 844.885.8420 or visit silversea.com

19_074

MONTAGE PALMETTO BLUFF BLUFFTON, SOUTH CAROLINA, USA

THE UPPER HOUSE HONG KONG, CHINA

GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO LAKE COMO/TREMEZZINA, ITALY

PULITZER AMSTERDAM AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS

FINCA CORTESÍN HOTEL , GOLF & SPA CASARES, SPAIN

THE BEAUMONT HOTEL LONDON, ENGLAND, UK

FARMHOUSE INN FORESTVILLE/SONOMA, CALIFORNIA USA

THE LEEL A PAL ACE UDAIPUR UDAIPUR, INDIA

Please visit CNTraveler.com for the complete 2020 Gold List.

THE TEMPLE HOUSE CHENGDU, CHINA

BACCARAT HOTEL NEW YORK NEW YORK, NEW YORK, USA

F E AT U R E S THE GOLD LIST OUR EDITORS PICK THEIR FAVORITE HOTELS AND CRUISES AROUND THE GLOBE, PAGE 25

RETURN OF THE ANCIENT WORLD NEW AND OLD GLORIES THRILL IN A BACK-ON-THE-MAP EGYPT, PAGE 84

A W I L D S TAT E O F M I N D GETTING LOST IN ALASKA, AMERICA’S FARTHEST FRONTIER, PAGE 94

A L E S S E R - K N O W N S A FA R I

KENAI PENINSULA, SOUTH OF ANCHORAGE, ALASKA 6 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

PHOTOGRAPH: TOM PARKER

WILDLIFE SPOTTING AND SITE HOPPING IN ZIMBABWE, PAGE 102

dorchestercollection.com The Dorchester, London | 45 Park Lane, London | Coworth Park, Ascot | Le Meurice, Paris Hôtel Plaza Athénée, Paris | Hotel Principe di Savoia, Milan | Hotel Eden, Rome The Beverly Hills Hotel, Beverly Hills | Hotel Bel-Air, Los Angeles | Dubai (opening 2020)

Perfection just happens at Dorchester Collection

cd: ROBB AARON GORDON

Õ

I

LANA I

LOVELANAI.COM

CONTENTS 80

65

72 114

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE THE EDITOR’S LETTER PAGE 14

T H E D E S T I N AT I O N OUR FASCINATION WITH THE MIDDLE EAST RAMPS UP, PAGE 65

THE OBSESSION PALACE POMP AT VERSAILLES’S FIRST HOTEL, PAGE 70

PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID DOUBILET ON DIVING SOUTH ASIA’S CORAL TRIANGLE, PAGE 72

74

THE SHOPPING SCENE NEXT-LEVEL CURIOSITY STORES IN ROME, PAGE 74

THE FUTURE TREND SPACE-AGE STREETWEAR FROM VIRGIL ABLOH, PAGE 78

THE URBAN REBOOT SPOTLIGHT ON MEDELLÍN’S EL POBLADO DISTRICT, PAGE 80

THE GLOBETROTTER WRITER PAUL THEROUX TRAINS HIS EYE ON MEXICO, PAGE 112

THE INSIDER ADDRESS AN ENLIGHTENED ARRIVAL IN THE HIMALAYAS, PAGE 114 12 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE CLICK CLACK HOTEL; RICHARD JAMES TAYLOR; DAVID DOUBILET; COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK; COURTESY OF BULGARI

T H E ZO N E

THE CRUISE FOR PEOPLE WHO AREN’T ESPECIALLY INTO CRUISES.

A thousand-year-old village. A river of lights. A memory time can’t extinguish.

Leave the crowds behind on a small, lovely ship, and lose yourself in the wonders of an authentic culture. We can take you places other ships can’t. Call your travel advisor or Windstar Cruises at 888-660-5321. WindstarCruises.com

THE GOLD LIS T EDITOR’S LETTER O N TH E COV E R At dinner the other night, I sat next to one of my heroes. Which always ends badly, as everyone knows.

The thing was, I didn’t realize it was him initially. I only knew his work, as a photographer of fashion, mostly, but also of flowers and plants. I have many of his books.

The first—and also last—poem I wrote to my husband sits pressed between the pages of Flora’s blue-green ghostly maple leaves and an artery-red swarm of oaks.

But before the awkward identity reveal took place, I found myself in the curious position of talking to him... about him...because it was his work I was thinking of when I spoke. “I want images to take us away from all this,” I said, waving a hand rather grandly. “I need something translucent—now more than ever—that catches us unawares, that feels transcendent, that truly transports us!” I added, getting carried away. He eagerly concurred. We continued our lively conversation about what we both thought art should be. He was so charming and so understated and seemed so down on his luck that at the end of dinner I said, “Listen, let me take a look at whatever you’re shooting at the moment to see if there’s anything I can do with it. Give me your email address and let’s chat tomorrow.” Very sweetly and very slowly, he spelled out: “Capital N-i-c-k, capital K-n-i-g-h-t.”

When I got home, eyes shining at having met the man, I pored over old fashion books and photography books and art books and interiors books and travel books that I have relished down through the years, and wondered if it was bad to love beauty quite so much. It seems nowadays that beauty is being so pilloried. That it’s seen as unreal and out of touch and exclusive and absurd. But isn’t this what human nature aspires to? And isn’t it what we should do? Shouldn’t we have ambition enough to pursue the exceptional, and a heart’s vision to see the glory in it, even if it’s out of reach—particularly if it’s out of reach?

Because when beauty strikes, surely what it does is hold us in its hand, and suspend us for a moment away from the mud-thick ticktock of time. And that, for me, is the greatest trick of all.

THE QUEEN’S BEDCHAMBER AT THE PALACE OF VERSAILLES. PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROBERT POLIDORI/TRUNK ARCHIVE

SU BSC RI B E VISIT CNTRAVELER.COM/ SUBSCRIBE, EMAIL SUBSCRIPTIONS@ CONDENASTTRAVELER.COM, OR CALL 800-777-0700

F O L LOW U S O N I N S TAG R A M @ C NTR AV E LER

This is the new issue of Condé Nast Tra eler. The Gold List Issue. Everything classic.

Everything outstanding. For those who cleave to beauty’s tyranny and are happy in its lair.

EDITOR IN CHIEF

CONDÉ NAST TRAVELER IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2019 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 55, NO. 1, CONDÉ NAST TRAVELER (ISSN 0893-9683) is published monthly (except for combined issues in Jan/Feb, May/June, July/Aug, and Sept/Oct) by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: Condé Nast, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.

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MELINDA STEVENS

GIGERWALDSEE, SWITZERLAND. PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHRIS POPLAWSKI

EDITOR IN CHIEF MELINDA STEVENS PA TO THE EDITOR Katharine Sohn EDITOR, U.S. Jesse Ashlock DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Paulie Dibner MANAGING EDITOR Paula Maynard TRAVEL NEWS DIRECTOR Erin Florio FEATURES DIRECTOR Fiona Kerr SENIOR EDITOR Rick Jordan ACTING FEATURES DIRECTOR Toby Skinner ASSOCIATE EDITOR Betsy Blumenthal FOOD & DRINK EDITOR Tabitha Joyce CREATIVE DIRECTOR Pete Winterbottom ART DIRECTOR Paula Ellis ART EDITOR Nitish Mandalia PHOTOGRAPHIC DIRECTOR Matthew Buck SENIOR PICTURE EDITOR Karin Mueller PICTURE EDITOR Anna Morassutti Vitale CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Gráinne McBride DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Katharina Hahn SENIOR SUB-EDITOR Leah Craig

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Peter Browne, Steve King

WEST COAST EDITOR Rebecca Misner EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Louis Cheslaw EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Shauna Beni

DIRECTOR, ARTICLES Stephanie Wu DIRECTOR, CITY GUIDES Corina Quinn SENIOR LIFESTYLE EDITOR Lale Arikoglu EDITOR, TRANSPORTATION Jessica Puckett ASSOCIATE EDITOR Meredith Carey COMMUNITY EDITOR Megan Spurrell EDITOR, CITY GUIDES Noah Kaufman ASSISTANT EDITOR, CITY GUIDES Alex Erdekian SENIOR SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Mercedes Bleth ASSOCIATE SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Sarah Ratner SENIOR MANAGER, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT

Lara Kramer

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SUBSCRIPTIONS: For inquiries and address changes, call 800-777-0700, visit cntraveler.com/subscribe, or email subscriptions@condenasttraveler.com 16 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

A D V E R T I S E M E N T

A MODERN-DAY CLASSIC

IN LAS VEGAS

World-class chefs. International art exhibitions. Decadent suites.

Bellagio continually innovates and elevates the idea of luxury on the Las Vegas Strip.

and Grand Lakeview Suites, which feature

At the Spa & Salon at Bellagio, you can also

whirlpool tubs, steam showers, Italian marble

get some R&R with one of their therapeutic

accents, LCD TVs throughout, and access to

treatments—a sensorial experience developed

the Chairman’s Lounge added to enhance

to create an immediate feeling of letting go as

guests’ stay, Bellagio takes opulence to a

well as a sense of intense regeneration.

new level. You’ll also find exclusive Bellagio Cashmere Super Pillow Top mattresses and comfortable quilts to ensure a deep sleep. The

BEST PLACES TO LAY YOUR HEAD Really any room or suite at Bellagio is a study in luxury. No matter which one you book, you are guaranteed a stay that will spoil you. With accommodations like the Penthouse Suites

new Bellagio Queen Suite is also remarkable in its offerings, featuring two queen beds in a onebedroom space—perfect for group travelers.

It features art-themed interiors with separate living spaces and spectacular powder rooms, outfitted with pampering amenities and the latest technology.

WORLD-CLASS ART AND CULTURE UNDER ONE ROOF A defining element of Bellagio is the artwork, including the iconic Fountains of Bellagio™ that grace the entrance. Beyond the public collection, which features 65 works of art, the Bellagio Gallery of Fine Art hosts exhibits throughout the year.

A D V E R T I S E M E N T

CULINARY MASTERY TO SAVOR

CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT TO

Bellagio has long been a pillar of culinary

RIGHT:

excellence in Las Vegas—and with recent additions such as Sadelle’s Cafe and Spago by

A posh Penthouse Suite

Wolfgang Puck, the iconic locale continues to

Al fresco patio at Spago

by Wolfgang Puck

build upon its outstanding reputation. At Sadelle’s Cafe, satisfy any craving all day, every day. It’s a

Beautiful cuisine found at MICHAEL MINA

feast for the senses as you dine on dishes like classic eggs Benedict while overlooking Bellagio’s

Take a dip in the serene pool at the Spa & Salon

Conservatory & Botanical Gardens. For gorgeous al fresco dining, Spago by Wolfgang Puck fuses

A delicious brunch dish presented at Sadelle’s Cafe

a California-style seasonal menu with exclusive signature dishes in front of the legendary

The stunning Fountains of Bellagio

Fountains of Bellagio.

As for the outstanding mainstays, Michelin starawarded chef Michael Mina’s eponymous AAA Four Diamond Award-winning restaurant, MICHAEL

A FEAST FOR THE SENSES

MINA, serves the finest fish flown in on a private

Contemporary American cuisine meets all-night

flavors of each dish. And that’s just the beginning.

entertainment at The Mayfair Supper Club,

With more than 15 restaurants, ranging from fine

Bellagio’s new restaurant that redefines the dinner-

dining to casual fare, Bellagio offers a world-class

and-show concept inspired by top supper clubs in

epicurean experience for every kind of food lover.

plane. Then chef Mina personally curates the global

London and 1930s New York City. Starting on New Year’s Eve, indulge in glamour at every turn, from

Whether you have a weekend or a week, Bellagio

an evolving cast of characters to fine flavors and a

is the ultimate retreat, raising the bar of luxury

curated selection of rare spirits–all set against the

with one-of-a-kind experiences—all conveniently

backdrop of the famed Fountains of Bellagio.

located under one roof.

F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N , V I S I T B E L L AG I O.C O M

A D V E R T I S E M E N T

A CELEBRATION TO REMEMBER Crystal Cruises marks its 30th anniversary with a trio of awards and a commemorative collection of voyages and offers.

From the ancient ruins of Crete to the roar and glamour of the Monaco Grand Prix, there are few voyages that tell the story of civilization more vividly than an adventure through the Mediterranean. And what better way to experience it than aboard the world’s most trusted, refined cruise line?

This year, Crystal Cruises celebrates 30 years on the water with a remarkable achievement: winning Condé Nast Traveler’s Readers’ Choice Awards for Best Medium Cruise Line for the 26th year. The accolade comes alongside two others for Best Small Cruise Line for Crystal Yacht Cruises, and Best River Cruise Line for Crystal River Cruises—underscoring the brand’s unparalleled expertise in cruising.

For discerning guests on board a Crystal cruise, that expertise means the opportunity to explore historic cities like Barcelona or Monte Carlo by day, before retiring to your home at sea. It means 24-hour room service and nine sophisticated and seamless dining venues, including Umi Uma, celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s only sea-going restaurant. It means endless pours of fine wines and spirits at multiple open bars and lounges.

And to complete your sojourn, every ship offers acclaimed enrichment programs, along with the highest space-to-guest ratio in the industry and the highest staff-to-guest ratio for unrivaled personal service.

The experience only gets better in 2020. To mark

With everything taken care of, there’s only one

its 30th anniversary, Crystal has released a

thing left for you to do: join the celebration.

limited-time collection of 30 special voyages, including Mediterranean itineraries, with exclusive savings and gifts like commemorative luggage tags, pins, and wine stoppers, plus a specialedition 30th anniversary cookbook featuring Crystal’s top culinary creations.

TO BOOK YOUR NEXT CRYSTAL CRUISE, VISIT CRYSTALCRUISES.COM, CALL 888.831.8281, OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR.

WE SET OUT TO DISCOVER OTHER PEOPLE AND PLACES. WE NEVER IMAGINED CRYSTAL WOULD HELP US DISCOVER SO MUCH ABOUT OURSELVES. A Crystal Experience® in Europe.

W H E R E L U X U R Y I S P E R S O N A L™

CRYSTALCRUISES.COM 1.888.831.8281

©2020 Crystal Cruises, LLC. | Location: France

OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR

A D V E R T I S E M E N T

DESIGNED TO PERFECTION Set sail on the youngest fleet on Europe’s rivers, with all-inclusive, all-suite, all-balcony, all-butler service accommodations.

The Danube. The Rhine. The Moselle. Since the beginning of time, Europe’s most significant rivers have etched themselves into the landscape, scripting history from Basel to Amsterdam, Budapest to Vienna. Now, the best way to experience those stories is on board a luxury

brand is a sibling to the multi-award-winning

Crystal’s sprawling ships carry 45 percent fewer

cruise line that’s writing records of its own.

Crystal Cruises and Crystal Yacht Cruises.

guests and have twice as many crew per

As Condé Nast Traveler’s Best River Cruise Line in

So what makes an award-winning river cruise? For

the 2019 Readers’ Choice Awards, Crystal River

starters, the sumptuous all-suite accommodations

Cruises has achieved the extraordinary—earning

—the largest on Europe’s rivers—each outfitted

All of which means you can devote your time to

the trust of travelers with a fleet that launched

with a palatial king-size bed and butler service in

taking in Europe’s most spectacular sights from

only in 2016 and is the youngest on Europe’s

every room category. That luxury of space and

your private balcony when you’re not on one of

rivers. Yet that may not surprise. After all, the

service extends far beyond your suite, too, since

the many complimentary shore excursions

passenger than the industry average to attend to your every desire.

offered. Or sampling the Michelin-inspired cuisine in one of the many open-seating dining restaurants, or round-the-clock from the comfort of your suite. Whatever you choose to do, the experience is seamless, since every sailing aboard the Crystal Bach, Crystal Debussy, Crystal Mahler, and Crystal Ravel is all-inclusive.

It’s the perfect setting for your own tale to be told, so step aboard.

TO BOOK YOUR CRYSTAL RIVER CRUISE, VISIT CRYSTALCRUISES.COM, CALL 888.831.8281, OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR.

WE’VE GONE ON DOZENS OF CRUISES. MY FAVORITE ONE? THE LAST ONE. ALWAYS. A Crystal Experience® in Europe.

W H E R E L U X U R Y I S P E R S O N A L™

CRYSTALCRUISES.COM 1.888.831.8281

©2020 Crystal Cruises, LLC. | Location: Belgium

OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR

THE GOLD LIST 2020

THE EDITORS’ ALL-TIME FAVORITE HOTELS

PHOTOGRAPH: NIKOLAS KOENIG

EDITED BY ERIN FLORIO, REBECCA MISNER, FIONA KERR & RICK JORDAN

FOR THE FULL GOLD LIST, VISIT CNTRAVELER.COM/THE-BESTS/GOLD-LIST THE TRIBECA PENTHOUSE AT THE GREENWICH HOTEL, NEW YORK January/February 2020 Condé Nast Traveler 25

THE GOLD LIST 2020

ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR RESORT NIZWA, OMAN

Set in the sunburnt Al-Hajar mountains, on the rim of the Arabian Peninsula’s most outrageously beautiful canyon, is the region’s most ambitious wilderness hotel.

This is Oman’s wild frontier, but this space has souped it up to the max, with chasm-facing pool villas, majlis-style courtyards, a lantern-lit outdoor hookah space, and superslick service fit for a sultan (a little jealous, perhaps, Omani premier Qaboos bin Said is building a palace on the canyon lip opposite). This being the splashy Gulf of Oman, there has to be a superlative or two: The hotel has the highest swimming pools, tennis court, and stargazing platform in the Middle East. But its real essence is pure escapism, whether dangling from a mountain while rappelling or relaxing in the impeccable spa with its energizing hammam rituals and fragrant frankincense oils. It’s a bold, almost transcendental experiment in off-the-map tourism, and at the vanguard of a growing number of Middle Eastern hotels opening in unexpected and wonderfully extreme locations. Doubles from $400. anantara.com

26 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

THE GRITTI PALACE VENICE, ITALY

In a city with such a concentration of luxe hotels, none does it quite like this Grand Canal classic. Though the 15th-century palazzo— now a member of the Luxury Collection—has been open to guests since 1895, a 15-month, $200 million revamp in 2013 ensured that it’s no creaky museum piece. (Most modern extras are cleverly concealed.) But it’s the sheer grace of the place that makes it so appealing. Of course, it’s all inimitably exquisite, with rich Rubelli fabrics and priceless art; but this silky cocoon also manages to be utterly affable. Nothing is too much trouble, from the staff who serve cocktails from the martini trolley to chef Daniele Turco, who creates wonders with castraure—those special Venetian baby artichokes. A restorative facial in the spa? A spin in the Riva Aquariva boat? Full immersion in local food at the culinary school? Only if you can take your eyes off that watery spectacle outside: This is still one of the most beautiful hotels in one of the most beautiful, and most fragile, spots in the world. Doubles from $460. marriott.com

ONE&ONLY PALMILLA

PHOTOGRAPHS: NICOLE FRANZEN; ROBERTA VALERIO; JAIME KOWAL. OPPOSITE: COURTESY OF ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR RESORT

MEXICO

In the 1950s, Don Abelardo Rodríguez, son of Mexico’s former president, had his choice of real estate in Baja Sur. He decided on the very tip of the peninsula, between the calm Sea of Cortez and the crashing Pacific, as the site for the area’s first hotel of note, the 15-room Palmilla. The hotel became the hideaway of politicians and actors looking for a little sun and a lot of privacy. Sixty-some years on, the luxury hotel set has moved in, and much at the Palmilla has changed—but not enough to keep nearly half of its guests from coming back each year. The hotel, which was taken over by One&Only in 2004, still has the best location—on its own little point between Los Cabos’ two busy hotel zones, making it more secluded than most. The hacienda-style rooms with wrought-iron chandeliers and updated mission-style furniture continue to embody the pueblo Cabo once was. But it still comes down to the service here, just like it always has—the small, thoughtful touches, such as the roaming masseuse who offers foot massages while you lie facedown on a pool chair.

Doubles from $990. oneandonlyresorts.com

Venice:

Mo e Classics

The crush of over-tourism has risked muting the magic of La Serenissima, but the city’s hotels, many of them palaces and villas during the republic’s glory days, remain a bastion of Venetian romance. At the graceful Aman Venice (above), in the quieter San Polo district, there is slightly more reserve.

With its Murano chandeliers and stellar rabbit cappelletti served in a side garden, the hotel mixes the elegantly spare aesthetic of this revered Asian brand with the cultured taste of the Italian count and princess who own the property. ◆ The intimacy of Aman is countered by the spaciousness of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, where every room has garden or water views. Those who prefer to sleep somewhere that’s at least four centuries old can head to its annex, set inside a 15th-century palace on Giudecca Island. ◆ For an extraordinary spot that has remained under the Cipriani family umbrella, hop on the traghetto, or ferry, to Locanda Cipriani, a charming little inn on an island in the lagoon that feels like an escape within the city. ◆ And for the contemporary without compromising on the classic, book one of the rooms at the whimsical Palazzo Venart.

Reached through a hard-tofind courtyard off the Grand Canal, it’s filled with modern statues that underscore Venice’s remarkable history and fabulous art scene.

THE GOLD LIST 2020

Pa is:

RITZ PARIS FRANCE

This is one of a small number of hotels so high and mighty they create their own weather system.

Which made the ragging it got when it reopened in 2016, after a four-year revamp, all the more baffling. Some scoffed that it was a facsimile of its former self, smelling of fresh paint but virtually unchanged. But what exactly would have been gained if the Ritz had been remade in the image of a Nantucket shrimp shack or Buddhist monastery? It had stuck to its guns, and its critics were tilting at windmills. The Ritz remains, merci au bon Dieu, the Ritz, demonstrating that sometimes the most spectacular renovations are the least spectacular, though the hotel is as opulent today as at any time in its 122-year history. Yet even among the silks and tassels, a kind of democracy prevails. The smallest rooms are, by Parisian standards, generous, and differ from the mega-suites only in the scale, not the degree, of their sumptuousness. And it does not matter how rich, famous, or beautiful you are— the peerless Bar Hemingway still isn’t taking reservations. Doubles from about $1,110. ritzparis.com 28 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

Like the Ritz, Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel is a case study in how to stay relevant in the 21st century.

But while the Ritz carried on in the same splendid fashion as always, the Crillon blasted off in search of something new. The result is a fascinating postmodern triumph. ◆ La Réserve owner Michel Reybier had great success with his Geneva and Ramatuelle outposts. Yet there was general astonishment when, in 2015, La Réserve Paris sashayed into town, teaching the city’s grandes dames new tricks. ◆ Utterly immaculate yet playful, Le Bristol (above) is much like the pampered Birman cat Fa-Raon, who roams its halls. There are sensational new rooms, and the lobby restaurant remains fashion-power-breakfast central. ◆ The Hoxton updates the Haussmann vibe for hipsters. Could such a thing fly here in Paris? Ouais, ouais, tranquille. ◆ Ageless Le Meurice has always been tolerant of experimentation and eccentricity. No wonder it was Salvador Dalí’s favorite.

Most of its suites, including the penthouse, Belle Étoile, have been redone in silk and velvet. ◆ After some topsy-turvy years, Left Bank Art Nouveau institution Hôtel Lutetia reopened in 2018, and now looks better than it did when James Joyce wrote bits of Ulysses here, thanks to architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte and collaborators such as Francis Ford Coppola.

PHOTOGRAPHS: CARLA COULSON; COURTESY OF LE BRISTOL PARIS

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THE GOLD LIST 2020

BELMOND HOTEL SPLENDIDO PORTOFINO, ITALY

ZERO GEORGE

CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA History is so much a part of the Charleston experience that you don’t want to leave it behind when returning to your hotel. At the three early-19th-century in-town “singles” and two carriage houses that form the Zero George, each of which comes with a pleasantly quiet, shaded courtyard nook to beat the steamy streets, you don’t have to.

When plantation shutters are closed and the happy hour cheese board in the small bar is running low, sleep comes easily in one of the 16 rooms, which offer an unfussy palette of cream, gray, and sage, and not a lick of kitsch.

Garden suites are sweet with heart pine floors and period millwork, though like the Dewberry down the street, the kitchen is the heart and soul of this place, as should be the case in the South. Chef Vinson Petrillo isn’t about pretense or elaborate sauces; royal red shrimp are served with generous amounts of heritage pork fat. This is classic Charleston, down to the deeply satisfying underfoot crunch of oyster shells in those nooks. Doubles from $359. zerogeorge.com

30 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

Italy:

Mo e Classics

A tribute to the vision and folly of its creator, Il San Pietro di Positano burrows into a cliff, with an elevator plunging down to the beach via a shaft hacked out of rock. It’s the ultimate Amalfi Coast cocoon, made all the more attractive by delicious but not overly fancy seasonal food. ◆ Tuscany’s Borgo Santo Pietro has expanded from 9 to 20 rooms since its 2008 opening, all done in impeccable style. The hotel has a Michelin-starred restaurant and its own natural skin-care line. ◆ Lake Como has seen its share of designer openings in recent years, but few match the glamour of century-old Grand Hotel Tremezzo, which has the lakefront T Spa and a restaurant dedicated to late super-chef Gualtiero Marchesi. ◆ Celebrities (Madonna, the Beckhams) keep delightful Puglian resort Borgo Egnazia (above) in the news. The heart of this hotel, however, lies not in the private villas where they hide away, but in the pretty piazzas of Il Borgo and La Corte, where the community vibe is ramped up by six restaurants and three bars. ◆ The Rome Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Resort, set on 15 acres with views to St. Peter’s, is both a lavish escape and a perfect city-break address. The lack of neighborhood action is more than made up for by a world-class art collection and La Pergola Rome, one of the best restaurants in the capital.

PHOTOGRAPHS: HELEN CATHCART; KEN KOCHEY; COURTESY OF ZERO GEORGE

The first guest to sign the visitors book was the Duke of Windsor, who stayed here with his American wife, Wallis Simpson, in 1952. The following pages of the weighty volume reveal a who’s who of Hollywood royalty (Clark Gable, Humphrey Bogart, Elizabeth Taylor), and the stream of A-listers has never stopped. The hotel hasn’t really changed much, although superyachts have replaced the fishing boats.

A former monastery acquired by Orient Express Hotels in 1986, the Splendido overlooks the harbor, giving all but a handful of the sunny bedrooms grandstand views. There’s a retroglam feel, with button-back banquettes, honey-hued parquet, and custom-made ’70s terrace furniture. After spending the day lying by the saltwater pool, guests gather on the veranda to sip Campari spritzes while an old-timer plays numbers on a baby grand, then tuck into lemon-scented linguine with clams.

This is the only place you should stay on the coast; no wonder it has such a loyal following.

Doubles from about $1,356. belmond.com

BISATE LODGE

VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK, RWANDA This pint-size country has become one of Africa’s most buzzed-about—and exclusive—destinations, and nowhere more so than the gorilla-rich Virunga Mountains. Top-notch operators Singita and One&Only have opened here, and very lovely they are, but Wilderness Safaris’ Bisate Lodge was the original.

Ranged like giant birds’ nests around the natural amphitheater of an eroded volcanic cone, its six thatched pods are inspired by the former royal palace in the southern city of Nyanza. Inside, the swooping ceilings and woven-grass walls curve around to huge windows with knockout views of the peaks where Dian Fossey studied gorillas. And in 2020, Wilderness is rumored to be upping the ante again, opening satellite camp Little Bisate close by. From $1,575 per person, full board, including lodge activities. wilderness-safaris.com 32 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

PHOTOGRAPHS: TOM PARKER. OPPOSITE: COURTESY OF ONE&ONLY LE ST GÉRAN ; COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS RESORT LANAI; COURTESY OF BURJ AL ARAB JUMEIRAH

THE GOLD LIST 2020

FOUR SEASONS RESORT LANAI HAWAII

There’s Hawaii, and there’s Lanai. Driving through Lanai City—still more plantation outpost than the island’s only town—on the way from the airport to the hotel, there are none of the usual signifiers: no ABC Stores or shave ice stands (there aren’t even traffic lights). In addition to palms, there are willowy Cook pines planted a century ago by pineapple king James Dole. In 2012, billionaire Larry Ellison purchased 98 percent of Lanai, including this hotel, which he closed in 2015 for a major overhaul. Rooms were freshened up with teak and zebrawood; key cards morphed into waterproof wristbands, handy for late-night dips in the new pool. Nobu and Malibu Farm were clever additions—sashimi and salads are brilliant after sun and sea. But what really makes this hotel stand out is that there’s no feeling of being on- or off-property. Every part of Lanai, from sunbathe-naked-empty Polihua Beach to the interior’s Garden of the Gods, with otherworldly red-rock formations, feels all yours. Doubles from $1,150. fourseasons.com

Af ica:

Mo e Classics

After bush comes beach, and North Island, in the Seychelles, is a beachbreaker of hearts, a revamped shipwreckfantasy island with 11 villas set along a sensational lick of white sand splendor.

When it opened it set a new standard for what utterly bespoke, privateisland barefoot hotels could be, and it continues to thrill. ◆ At AndBeyond Benguerra Island, off the coast of Mozambique, a wonderful renovation of the once-rustic lodge by one of Africa’s best safari outfits might have elevated this hideaway, but it still retains its low-key soul. With around 140 species of birds—from kingfishers to flamingos—and some of the best snorkeling and diving in the world, it is hard to beat as a natural retreat. ◆ Over on Mauritius, One&Only Le Saint Géran (above) is one of the most beloved Indian Ocean hotels, with a fiercely loyal following since it opened in 1975.

Tamper with an old favorite at your peril, but there was a collective sigh of relief when the hotel revealed a more than $55 million renovation a couple of years ago: lighter, brighter, the very model of a sharp, slick, sophisticated beach retreat, and still in the island’s best spot.

BURJ AL ARAB JUMEIRAH

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES It was a smart move, even in those far-off pre-Instagram days, to design this hotel with such a distinctive silhouette. Since rising off Jumeirah Beach in 1999, the Burj has been the symbol for Dubai as much as the Eiffel Tower is for Paris. And despite fierce competition— the regal One&Only, superchic Bulgari—this homegrown star is still regarded with a mixture of affection and awe. Arriving here and looking upward can make a head spin: The atrium rises 590 feet, a dancing waterfall flanked by aquariums. And the hotel has found fresh ways to innovate, with Michael Ellis, formerly of the Michelin Guide, heading up the restaurants, and Robuchon disciples bringing French finesse to 27th-floor Al Muntaha. While the pool terrace is a lesson in pared-back luxe, the rest of the show is a Baz Luhrmann–style production, with crystal ceilings, silk wallpaper, and gold-plated iPads. In a land of recordbreaking one-upmanship, this place still feels audacious. Doubles from $400. jumeirah.com

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THE GOLD LIST 2020

HOTEL NORD-PINUS TANGER MOROCCO

HOTEL DE RUSSIE ROME

From the moment the top-hatted doorman ushers you into the classicmodern space by former Valentino interiors whiz Tommaso Ziffer and Rocco Forte Hotels director of design Olga Polizzi, the sense of being in the foremost place to stay in town is as sharp as the Campari sodas served at the bar.

The 120-room hotel just off Piazza del Popolo mixes Art Deco–tinged nods to Rome’s classical past with jazzy homages to Picasso and ballet legend Nijinsky, who stayed here in its previous incarnation.

They’re commemorated in signature suites, as is Giuseppe Valadier, the architect behind the palazzo’s terraced garden. This is being restored for the hotel’s 20th anniversary—one of several refreshes that include a health-oriented lightening of the mod-Med menu.

The kitchen is overseen by chef Fulvio Pierangelini, who also curates the food at the Stravinskij Bar, which heaves with beautiful Romans come aperitivo time.

Doubles from $440. roccofortehotels.com

36 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

Ma akech:

Mo e Classics

In Marrakech, the hotel is as much a destination as the city itself. Choose one for a rooftop supper, another for its marble hammam or sunbathing by the pool. Pick the best for sleeping. At the Royal Mansour Marrakech (above), located inside the medina, the draw is privacy— its beautifully tiled riads have their own pools dotting lush gardens that are made for afternoon strolls. ◆ The bougainvillea-filled grounds at grand La Mamounia, also inside the medina, are equally lovely, though Jacques Garcia’s sultry, layered interiors are the real star, particularly the mosaic walls with terraces that look out onto jasmine and roses. ◆ A bit more reined in is Jasper Conran’s supremely stylish L’Hôtel Marrakech, where the rooms have striped vintage chairs and pieces from the Yves Saint Laurent collection. ◆ The white-onwhite lobby at retro retreat Es Saadi feels opulent rather than minimal; it’s both a little kitschy and throwback glamorous. ◆ For a serious reset, there’s the Beldi Country Club, where the roomy spa has handcrafted chandeliers and bronze sconces, plus views over the long reflective pool. This property nails the idea of the retreat-as-destination, with prime access to Marrakech’s urban treasures.

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF HOTEL NORD-PINUS TANGER; ; COURTESY OF HOTEL DE RUSSIE; CATHERINE MEAD

When French hotelier Anne Igou dressed up a former 18th-century palace in Tangier with Syrian chandeliers and lacquered cabinets, she created one of the few hotels that could draw attention from the scene in Marrakech. What it does is subtly become a place you fall for so hard that you obsessively revisit it in your mind until you finally return. Part of the magic is Igou’s unwavering taste, which led her to match vintage wardrobes with stained-glass windows. One of the five rooms has views across the sea to Tarifa, in Spain, and deep into the Rif Mountains—a reminder that bohemian Tangier is itself a mash-up of influences, straddling oceans, continents, and languages. But inside, sweet orange juice and figs on exquisite little glass plates let you know exactly where you are. Spain, visible just 20 miles in the distance, seems pretty far away, after all.

Doubles from $210. nordpinustanger.com

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THE GOLD LIST 2020 MANDARIN ORIENTAL HYDE PARK LONDON

After a fire in June 2018, this local stalwart reopened last April. Gone are the heavy curtains and throws. Instead, everything is lighter, fresher—even the marbled lobby.

Rooms have been painted a pale gray, and gold lampshades added. The carpets have been replaced with wooden floors, and there are little libraries curated by beloved bookseller Heywood Hill. Still, the best rooms are the Hyde Park–facing ones, where the sound of the Household Cavalry clip-clopping past is better than any morning alarm. Artist Leah Wood has revamped the Butterfly Terrace with floral art; in the ballroom—where Queen Elizabeth learned to dance—every inch of gold leaf has been restored; and both Bar Boulud and the molecular Dinner by Heston Blumenthal are packed every night. Gracious and unstuffy, it’s still the best-situated hotel in London.

Doubles from $820. mandarinoriental.com

London:

THE SINGULAR PATAGONIA CHILE

While other luxury lodges in Patagonia are purpose-built, the Singular has a less glamorous history. Constructed in 1915 as an agricultural building, it was reborn in 2011 after a daring renovation as a 57-room hotel. Rather than try to erase its past, the place embraces it. Austere, dramatic design choices reference its heritage in a way that feels modern. Hulking machinery has been left intact in the huge public spaces.

A block of guest rooms built of brick, steel, and timber is connected to the original structure; its coarse textures contrast beautifully with sleek, wall-size windows that frame a showstopping view of the wind-ruffled waters of Ultima Esperanza Sound from every fluffy white bed.

Lamb, as well as other local specialties such as king crab and guanaco, appears throughout the menu in the two-story dining room. The result is a feeling of being indulged but not coddled, primed for adventure in the wilderness on excursions ranging from hiking in Torres del Paine National Park to fly-fishing and horseback riding. Go for the epic landscape and unique historical atmosphere—and the excellent pisco sours. Doubles from $365. thesingular.com 38 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

Also on Hyde Park, The Lanesborough is an unashamed concoction of gilding, trompe l’oeil, and marble that has all the interior oomph of a palace hotel—and, with a butler for each room, service to match. ◆ With smart dining from star-spangled chefs including Jean-George Vongerichten, an ethereal Aman Spa, and quite possibly the best hotel bar in town, The Connaught is a distillation of everything that makes Mayfair tick. ◆ The Rosewood London (above) brought a neglected Edwardian pile back to life—the Mirror Room is fabulous—but it’s also helped put Holborn back on the map for Londoners. ◆ The Langham has kept up with the times admirably, adding a stylish pub and cooking classes while maintaining a reassuringly old-school swish of palm-court elegance. ◆ Not far away, The Beaumont puts a playful spin on Prohibitionera New York. The impeccably realized bubble of Art Deco escapism is best approached through its An American Bar, while sculptor Antony Gormley’s three-story Room is totally unique. ◆ And snug within its own Soho enclave, Ham Yard, from artful town house maestros Kit and Tim Kemp, still feels as fresh as when it opened in 2014, with its procession of fabrics, textures, and fizzy commotion that rebooted the whole concept of the boutique hotel.

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF MANDARIN ORIENTAL; JAMES MERRELL; ARACELI PAZ

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THE GOLD LIST 2020

Southeast Asia:

SONG SAA PRIVATE ISLAND CAMBODIA

A sense of calm radiates from Song Saa, a pair of private islands off Cambodia’s once-overlooked southern coast. It starts with sunrise Buddhist blessings from tangerine-robed local monks and lasts until candlelit suppers soundtracked by the splashes of leaping fish. Australian owners Rory and Melita Hunter are accidental hoteliers—he was a Saatchi executive, she an interior designer—who had an epiphany while sailing a rented fishing boat along the mangroves and white sand beaches of the Koh Rong archipelago in 2005. The couple bought tiny Koh Ouen and Koh Bong, and spent six years crafting overwater villas with upcycled furniture and salvaged wood from abandoned boats. They also set up a foundation to protect and support the surrounding rain forests, sea life, and communities, such as Prek Svay, a village on stilts on neighboring Koh Rong. Six Senses and Alila Villas have since arrived on nearby islands, but Song Saa is the original: a living, breathing passion project that has that intangible essence of soul. Doubles from $1,100. songsaa.com 40 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan, on the banks of the Ayung River just outside arty Ubud, is still queen of the jungle two decades in.

Waterfront villas with lotus-filled pools and a lobby terrace that overlooks dense, tumbling palms create a sense of lush timelessness.

But a new cooking school and refreshed wellness program are now speaking to the mindful crowd that flocks to this corner of Indonesia. ◆ At Nihi Sumba (above), an hour’s flight from Bali on the lesser-known island of Sumba, solitude is prized more than pomp: Twenty-seven villas are spread across 550 acres of forest. Adventure is also key: The hotel opens onto Occy’s Left, one of the world’s top private waves. With ties to the local community and a rustic surfer ethos, Nihi is five-star and cool. ◆ There was relief in 2018 when Malaysia’s The Datai Langkawi, with its nature-luxe architecture by the late Kerry Hill and jungle-meets-sand setting, emerged from an almost $65 million overhaul as wild as ever. There are new rain forest villas, but still the best thing to do is to spot dusky leaf monkeys on the walk to the Andaman Sea. ◆ The Thai island of Phuket has grown up from backpackers’ hangout to serious hotel destination. Relative newcomer Rosewood Phuket is leading the pack, with breezy bungalows, a dreamy spa, and a prime beach spot.

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF SONG SAA PRIVATE ISLAND; COURTESY OF NIHI SUMBA

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THE GOLD LIST 2020 CHEVAL BLANC ST-TROPEZ FRANCE

THE PENINSULA BEIJING CHINA

There’s a delicious frisson in stepping into one of the Peninsula Beijing’s Rolls-Royce Phantoms, secure in the knowledge that you’re bound for Goldfish Lane and its preeminent address. At the front of the hotel, you’re greeted by the sight of a pai-lou arch, with its distinctive hip-and-gable roof, and a covey of bellboys, pillar-box hats set at a jaunty angle, ready to usher you into that phenomenal lobby.

Thirty-one years on from when it opened as the Chinese capital’s only hotel with any plausible claim to luxury, the Pen has not so much upped its game as put it on fast-forward. Whether fellow guests are high-society Beijingers or international players, they will relish the neatly juxtaposed hairy crab and minced pork dumplings in the Cantonese restaurant; the hotel’s heavy-hitting collection of artworks, including an abstract painting by Gao Shangxiao; the blue oasis that is the indoor pool; and the electric nail dryers that are standard in the suites’ bulging armory of home comforts. Many of Beijing’s foremost attractions—in particular the Forbidden City— lie nearby, but the temptation to stay put in the Pen is hard to resist. Doubles from $260. peninsula.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE PENINSULA BEIJING; VIA TOLILA OPPOSITE: COURTESY OF DORADO BEACH, A RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE; OLIVER PILCHER; COURTESY OF PULITZER AMSTERDAM

La Résidence de la Pinède, a classic peaches-andcream Riviera hotel on the beach outside St. Tropez’s center, was reborn in 2019 as the latest of LVMH’s superb Cheval Blanc properties. It’s both golden oldie and bright young thing. All that made La Pinède great has been preserved—that covetable strip of private beach, the three-Michelin-starred extravaganza of La Vague d’Or restaurant, the cinematic cluster of tables in the main courtyard. Inside, however, it has been transformed. There’s a blue, white, and ivory palette by architect-designer Jean-Michel Wilmotte, angular lines, glossily glazed ceramics on the walls, and stairs inside the front door that lead to a Guerlainscented parallel universe. St. Tropez is blessed with marvelous hotels these days, in contrasting styles.

In town there’s White 1921 and Byblos; nearby, wellness-focused La Réserve Ramatuelle and elegant Villa Marie. Cheval Blanc occupies the sweet spot in between. Doubles from about $670. chevalblanc.com

DORADO BEACH, A RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE PUERTO RICO

Shoulders begin dropping half an hour into dinner at Positivo Sand Bar. By the time the table is covered with tangy ceviche and cold albariño, sleeves are rolled up and sandals slipped off. Unlike with other properties on the resort-heavy north shore, the emphasis is on the setting. The hotel has undergone many transformations (including after Hurricane Maria in 2017), but since Laurance Rockefeller built a sanctuary here it has been all about sea, sand, and green spaces. Rooms are bookended by beach-facing terraces and outdoor showers, and museum-quality art is scattered on tree branches. But it’s the Spa Botánico, a tropical wonderland that’s much more than the usual cluster of treatment rooms, that really sticks to Rockefeller’s approach. After visiting, you’ll remember the 95-year-old ficus at the entrance most clearly. That or the tree house in the canopy where you had the greatest massage of your life. Doubles from $1,500. ritzcarlton.com

Ca ibbean:

Mo e Classics

PULITZER AMSTERDAM THE NETHERLANDS

Back in the 1960s, Amsterdam businessman Peter Pulitzer had the bright idea of converting a few of the city’s grand Golden Age canal houses into a hotel. He was one of the first to do so.

Today, the Pulitzer ambles, climbs, and stretches through 25 historic buildings, between two canals.

The essence of Amsterdam’s past is here, but a contemporary makeover by Jacu Strauss, one of the architects behind the transformation of the Sea Containers hotel in London, blows away any cobwebs. Alongside the original stucco ceilings, antique Delft tiles, and baronial fireplaces, you’ll find prime new Dutch design (charred furniture

by Maarten Baas, Piet Hein Eek’s patchwork Persian rugs) and countless works from the hotel’s extensive modern art collection. Rooms are in the palette of the Old Masters: deep blues, rich yellows, and pinky plums (the bathrooms, in contrast, are glinting white). Restaurant Jansz snakes through a series of rooms, simply decorated with plain wood floors and bentwood chairs, and serves robust fare big on flavor.

Much like Amsterdam, the Pulitzer fuses prime elements of the past with irreverent contemporary design, while remaining originally, utterly itself.

Doubles from $330. pulitzeramsterdam.com

On an island of bells-andwhistles hotels, Playa Grande Beach Club, on the Dominican Republic’s wild north shore, is a refreshingly simple standout, with nine bungalows that are all lacy woodwork and wraparound porches. More friend’s holiday hideout than hotel, it has bikes for exploring and a last-century feel, with lazy ceiling fans and wicker chairs. ◆ Of the Coppola clan’s two exceptional ecolodges in Belize, the mangrove-encircled Turtle Inn (above), in the fishing village of Placencia, is where their cinematic vision really kicks in: thatched cottages with hand-carved Balinese doors; rustic-Italian dishes flavored with items from the organic garden; and a private castaway island, Coral Caye, with hammocks for postsnorkel naps. ◆ It’s the cachet that keeps GoldenEye in Jamaica a perpetual favorite— before it was a hotel, it was the home of Bond author Ian Fleming—as well as the wooden cottages opening onto a peaceful lagoon. ◆ The vibe is more intimate at the understated Kamalame Cay in the Bahamas, where David and Michael King-Hew throw elaborate wine-soaked lunches. ◆ The sand at wellness-pioneer COMO Parrot Cay might be the whitest in the Caribbean, but the massages at its Shambhala Retreat are so effective that visitors may spend more time in the treatment rooms than on the beach.

January/February 2020 Condé Nast Traveler 43

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AMANZOE

PORTO HELI, GREECE With views over the glitzy fray of Porto Heli Bay, this hotel is a series of set pieces: a composition of black amphorae in a soaring portico, a skylit spa framed by graceful colonnades, a yoga shala seemingly balancing on a Peloponnesian panorama. Marble-clad villas look like miniature Parthenons, only with planted roofs and plunge pools. The recurring nods to the Acropolis veer toward pastiche, yet it all hangs together because the landscape refuses to be upstaged by the monumental architecture. Other guests are barely noticeable (even the terribly famous ones). The main pool is miraculously empty, the library is all yours, and there’s always a front-row daybed at the beach club.

At dusk everyone gravitates toward the circular terrace, which floats on a reflective pool, to stare as the sunset streaks the horizon fuchsia and tangerine. The beauty of Amanzoe lies in its isolation—in the stillness of the landscape and the complete absence of distraction. Doubles from $975. aman.com

EMIRATES ONE&ONLY WOLGAN VALLEY

NEW SOUTH WALES, AUSTRALIA Darwin stopped off at this pine-shrouded valley, three hours west of Sydney, on his journey through Australia in the early 1800s. The steep cliffs, lush forests and waterfalls, and countless Aussie critters are thoroughly captivating.

Kangaroos dart into view, unconcerned by the human activity on this eco-retreat’s 7,000 acres, which were fortunately spared from the bushfires that ravaged the area late last year.

The homestead where Darwin stayed is now a museum. At the rest of the custom-built property, furniture is made from upcycled eucalyptus, while the showers in the 40 villas run on rainwater. The house gin, 1832 Wolgan, is second only to all that surrounding nature.

It’s best drunk veranda-side in a G&T, where the classic juniper notes are boosted with a herb-y dose of local tea tree. From here, plot out the next day’s hike around the reserve. And keep an eye out for a grove of trees that even Darwin didn’t notice. These Wollemi pines were thought to be extinct, until a bushwalker chanced upon them in the 1990s. The hotel has since nurtured new plantings—this place was eco-conscious from inception. Doubles from $1,295. oneandonlyresorts.com 46 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

G eece:

Mo e Classics

Like Porto Heli, Costa Navarino occupies an unsung corner of the Peloponnese.

The Romanos, A Luxury Collection Resort, its polished-marble flagship, is deeply rooted in the local culture. Immersive experiences include philosophy walks in centuries-old olive groves and grape harvesting in the organic vineyard. ◆ Crete’s Blue Palace, A Luxury Collection Resort and Spa (above) has an equally strong sense of place. Set on a luminous pebble beach, this sophisticated property has more authenticity than all the hotels along the Elounda coastline combined.

There’s a wooden fishing boat to putter across to Spinalonga island and a lamb spit roast at dusk. ◆ Several stylish hotels have helped offset the party-island reputation of Zakynthos, including Porto Zante Villas & Spa, which has nine villas overlooking a private bay. Everything is just so, from the supersmart room service to the perfectly aligned beach toys at the sparkling water’s edge. ◆ Thankfully, nothing much has changed at Athens landmark Grande Bretagne, A Luxury Collection Hotel in the last century.

This gilded icon is impervious to passing fads.

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF AMANZOE; COURTESY OF PORTO ZANTE VILLAS & SPA; NICKY RYAN

THE GOLD LIST 2020

A D V E R T I S E M E N T

ELEVATING LUXURY RIVER CRUISING How one boutique cruise line raised luxury cruising to a new level.

River cruising is gaining in popularity, and for good reason. It’s by far the most convenient way to travel from city to city, country to country—only unpacking once. There are also many advantages over ocean cruising, like not being encumbered by crowded ships and long lines, and docking in the heart of iconic cities and quaint villages.

beautiful design. With impeccable service that

Red Carnation Hotels, each ship is a unique

truly comes from the heart, delicious cuisine

work of art with custom décor, old-world

created with locally-sourced ingredients,

artistry, superb craftsmanship, and the latest

unlimited premium wines and spirits, and Savoir

technology and amenities.

Beds of England, the most comfortable beds you will ever have the pleasure of sleeping in, you will

However, not all river cruise lines are created

understand the meaning of elevated luxury.

equal. There is a big difference between the typical, standard lines and the few truly luxurious offerings. If the best is what you are looking for, then Uniworld’s collection of boutique river cruises is hands down, the best choice.

OUTSTANDING SERVICE According to Uniworld, the guest is at the heart of everything they do. This is evident in their

A leader in this space for over 40 years,

highly-trained and tenured staff who have

Uniworld is continuing to elevate the standard

a passion for service and live by the credo

of luxury river cruising in 2020—introducing

“no request is too large, no detail is too small.”

four stunning new Super Ships in Italy, Portugal, Egypt and Vietnam. Their recipe for success

Uniworld offers fully all-inclusive itineraries

doesn’t stop there. Putting the needs of their

in Europe, Russia, China, Vietnam, Cambodia,

guests �irst is Uniworld’s key ingredient.

India, Peru and Egypt—38 itineraries in 25

DELICIOUS FARM-TO-TABLE CUISINE Exquisite cuisine prepared with the freshest farm-to-table ingredients and served with distinctive regional wines, handpicked by an

countries. The moment you step onboard any

ONE-OF-A-KIND, AWARD-WINNING SHIPS

onboard sommelier is essential on Uniworld,

of their 18 one-of-a-kind ships, you’ll see and

Designed to immerse you in the destination,

as is making sure the food is always delicious.

feel the care that went into their thoughtful,

and paying homage to their sister brand

A CHOICE OF CAREFULLY CURATED EXPERIENCES Activities and excursions on Uniworld are tailored to guests’ passions and favorite pursuits. From wellbeing to educational, guests are always giving an ample selection of immersive and unforgettable excursions— several that are either private or not offered by any other cruise line.

T O L E A R N M O R E A B O U T U N I W O R L D , C O N TA C T Y O U R P R E F E R R E D T R A V E L A D V I S O R , C A L L 8 0 0 - 6 4 5 - 0 7 8 6 O R V I S I T U N I W O R L D . C O M

THE GOLD LIST 2020 THE LEELA PALACE UDAIPUR, INDIA

Domed havelis with delicately latticed jharoka balconies seem better suited to fairy tales than austere stone castles with imposing turrets. Udaipur, Rajasthan’s City of Lakes, has all the ingredients for a romantic myth, and on the banks of Lake Pichola, the Leela Palace has made generous use of them to re-create the erstwhile era of maharajas.

After floating across from town by boat, consult with the palace astrologer about your forthcoming plans, swim laps in a pool flanked by stone peacocks, or while away the hours in museum-like hallways that are a tribute to Rajasthan’s Mewar rulers. Each of the 80 rooms has views over the vast landscape, and there are brilliant Ayurvedic treatments in the spa. But the defining moment is spending twilight on one of the many terraces, when a dusky glow falls over the city from across the water, which proves that the greatest theatrics are all-natural.

Doubles from $610. theleela.com

India:

THE LANGHAM CHICAGO

A highlight of any Chicago riverboat architecture tour is Mies van der Rohe’s last skyscraper, 330 North Wabash, still commonly referred to as the IBM Building. It’s a paragon of the late International Style: a 52-story rectangle of anodized aluminum and bronze glass that is the perfect distillation of corporate might and urban promise. To check into the Langham Chicago, which since 2013 has occupied the building’s first 13 floors, is to step into the story the building tells about the American city. You feel like you could be a character in a spy thriller as you pass through the note-perfect midcentury lobby and take the elevator to the elegant second-floor reception area. (The hotel makes an appearance in the 2018 film Widows.) Everywhere you go, there are encounters to be had with the City of the Century: You’ll ponder the curious curlicues of Marina City, the iconic “corncob” apartment towers next door, over a bowl of cacio e pepe in Travelle, the handsomely brassy New American restaurant, and admire the bold way North Wabash slices diagonally through the urban jungle from the cream-and-taupe comfort of your vast guest room. For the traveler, it’s Chicago’s finest address. Doubles from $340. langhamhotels.com 48 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

No destination does high-low like India, from its regal palace hotels to its whimsical, windswept beach retreats. Jaipur’s rose-tinted Suján Rajmahal Palace, an Art Deco–inflected abode that was once home to the city’s maharaja, is done up in a riot of color— with 46 gorgeous bespoke wallpapers, from fuchsia to mint green. ◆ In the kinetic megalopolis of Mumbai, the striking Indo-Saracenic silhouette of the Taj Mahal Palace hotel (above) is no less of a landmark than the neighboring Gateway of India. ◆ While it might not have quite the same royal pedigree, The Oberoi, New Delhi, the capital’s most beloved hotel, is fit for modern-day mughals and moguls alike. An extensive two-year refurb by Adam D. Tihany has left it thoroughly refreshed, but one thing is resolutely the same: Oberoi’s signature fit-for-a-queen service. ◆ A dramatic pace change from much of India, the Andaman Islands are a world away, closer to Thailand or Burma. By far the loveliest place to stay here is Jalakara, a wild— and wildly beautiful—rain forest retreat. This is a place to disconnect and reset, properly off-the-grid and Wi-Fi-free.

PHOTOGRAPHS: SIVAN ASKAYO; CARLEY RUDD; COURTESY OF THE LANGHAM CHICAGO

Mo e Classics

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THE GOLD LIST 2020

New Yo k City:

THE GREENWICH HOTEL NEW YORK

In an era of the ever-more-exclusive members’ club luring the black-card-carrying wolf pack, Robert De Niro’s hotel makes privacy feel refreshingly effortless. Built more than a decade ago in a cobblestone quarter of Lower Manhattan, it creates the sensation of stepping into the actor’s own salon. The lobby is hung with abstract paintings by De Niro’s late father, and beyond it more inner sanctums await: A book-filled drawing room merges into a pocket garden, where topiaries cast an Italianate charm.

Each of the 88 rooms is idiosyncratically arranged with antique silk rugs, the odd vintage table, and marble bathtubs, while the TriBeCa Penthouse is earthy and minimalist. But the enduring revelation is the Shibui Spa, where the lantern-lit pool glimmers under the beams of a 250-year-old Japanese farmhouse. A festive din still kicks up at Locanda Verde, which serves rustic plates of duck orecchiette, and New York fixtures such as Yoko Ono and Jay-Z go pretty much incognito, but things settle down early. The wolf pack can go elsewhere. Doubles from about $755. thegreenwichhotel.com 50 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

The truly great hotels in this city are the ones that wend their way into everyday life.

Walk through the velvetand-gilt lobby of the Jacques Garcia–designed NoMad Hotel into its moody bar, where the after-work creative set gets progressively louder over dirty martinis and guests have a last drink before bedding down in apartmentlike rooms. ◆ No one knew what to expect when a 252-year-old French luxury brand opened its first property, Baccarat Hotel, on West 53rd five years ago—except that there had better be at least one over-the-top chandelier. The hotel did not disappoint, but what was surprising was how wonderful its opulence felt, after all that industrial, bare-bulb and rough-hewn everything. Like a return to Champagne after years of lager. ◆ The Whitby, NYC’s second import by British brand Firmdale Hotels, is designer Kit Kemp at her playful best.

A welcome addition to staid Midtown, it’s that rare find that is both familyfriendly and sophisticated. ◆ The Lowell, on the Upper East Side, reopened in 2017 after a three-year renovation. Its 74 rooms got a refresh, but the important touches stayed the same: wood-burning fireplaces, grisaille wallpaper in the lobby, tasseled key fobs. Nowhere in the city feels quite as refined.

PHOTOGRAPH: NIKOLAS KOENIG

Mo e Classics

OUR PI LOT S W UNG RIGH TÉ We were soaring over Alaska’s pristine forests and mountains, the helicopter skimming the treetops, when it emerged: Hubbard Glacier.

The countless angles refracted the sunlight like a beautifully cut jewel.

Our guide told us it’s the largest, calving glacier in North America.

We actually saw — and even heard — a giant iceberg break off!

START YOUR JOURNEY AT RSSC.COM/CNT CALL 1.844.4REGENT (1.844.473.4368) OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR

E V E RY

LU XURY I N C LU D E D

THE GOLD LIST SHIPS

THE EDITORS’ FAVORITE VOYAGES TO THE MOST EXCITING PLACES

OCEANIA MARINA

COPENHAGEN TO STOCKHOLM A sail that begins and ends in Scandinavia is certain to attract foodies, and Oceania Marina so spectacularly nails the dining that its 1,250 guests won’t mind missing Noma. The beyond-juicy porterhouse at the Polo Grill is a particular standout. Across the Gulf of Finland (shown) burn it off in St. Petersburg with a behind-the-scenes tour of the huge Hermitage Museum, or a stroll of Tallinn Old Town’s picturesque cobblestone streets. The recent introduction of local guides shows how much Oceania is investing in excursions (new intimate, sweet options include picking berries followed by tea inside a Latvian farmhouse).

Back on board, even the inner-facing cabins have cachet, with their cozy throws and upholstered headboards. But the room to book is one of the Owner’s Suites, which Ralph Lauren kitted out in Georgian-style wood panels and navy, echoing the deep-blue Baltic outside the double windows. Baltic Legacies cruise, from $2,999. oceaniacruises.com

CRYSTAL SERENITY This classic ocean liner is 17, which could be considered old enough to retire, and it has sailed to nearly every continent.

Yet there was no way it could be sent off to the proverbial ship graveyard. So in 2018, Crystal injected millions on a restoration, and that November it hit the seas again, sailing from Lisbon with a glamorous new look (shown) that goes big on bronze, velvets, and light woods. Thirty-six penthouses and two penthouse suites replaced many of the staterooms, which cut down occupancy by 9 percent; crucially, the number of staff remains the same. A newly implemented open-plan dining space means everyone can now eat when—and with whomever—they choose, including at the lively, laid-back churrascaria, where servers flamboyantly carve grilled beef picanha tableside. And yes, the legendary miso black cod is still as buttery soft as ever. If you’re too tired for dinner conversation after long, sunny days swimming in the shockingly cold waters of New Zealand’s Bay of Islands, hop online instead: Cabins now have whip-fast Wi-Fi, which means you can post images to Instagram in no time at all. South Pacific Tropical Kingdoms, from $4,549. crystalcruises.com

54 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG; JOHN LAURIE; LUIS GARCIA

PAPEETE TO AUCKLAND

with Dr. Zahi Hawass, the legendary archaeologist Dr. Mostafa Waziri, Egypt’s Head of Antiquities Mrs. Jehan Sadat, Egypt’s Former First Lady

Multiple Tour Dates in 2020 & 2021 This is the most exciting tour to Egypt ever offered! Led by the world’s most famous archaeologist, Dr. Zahi Hawass, The Royal Tour to Egypt provides unparalleled access to the wonders of Ancient Egypt. Unlike conventional tours, only The Royal Tour offers its participants VIP entry to areas of the ancient sites closed to the general public.

Visit the Giza Pyramids and Luxor Temple outside of regular opening hours for a more intimate and crowd-free experience. Have a once-in-a-lifetime chance to stand between the paws of the Great Sphinx instead of seeing it from the viewing platform.

You will hear secrets never told before and spend time in the esteemed company of Dr. Mostafa Waziri, Egypt’s Head of Antiquities. Former First Lady, Mrs. Jehan Sadat, will host you in the residence of Egypt’s late president Anwar Sadat – an experience normally reserved for royalty and heads of state.

Dr. Zahi Hawass: No one can tour Egypt like this – except for you when you come and join me. You will visit many unique sites that very few people can see. You will be treated like royalty!

Mrs. Jehan Sadat: Come to visit Egypt with Archaeological Paths. They are really the best to come with to visit my country.

Travel like a Pharaoh with first-class service from start to finish! Tour dates and more information:

www.royalegypt.com

contact@archaeologicalpaths.com

US phone: 917-719-1974

REGENT SEVEN SEAS VOYAGER ISTANBUL TO ATHENS

The first reaction guests may have when spotting this 12-deck sleek liner is that it seems awfully large for its capacity—low for the industry at 700 passengers. But once they depart they appreciate it. Lines are shorter, there’s always availability at the Serene Spa & Wellness, and navigating the ship is that much easier without the crowds.

Those who make the sailing are a goodlooking group of well-traveled boomers who are likely to become fast friends sitting around the lounge bar, going through bottles of Cabernet (the all-inclusive ship means never worrying about whose drink round comes next). Off-shore programming is thoughtful and goes deeper than most, with guided walks through spots like Mykonos (shown) and UNESCO-protected Ephaseus, plus tours of the 14th-century murals at a Crete monastery. A Harvard lecturer, Adam Tanner, keeps the conversation going with tons of information once back on board.

Crossing Continents, from $9,099. rssc.com

NORWEGIAN GETAWAY ROUND-TRIP NEW ORLEANS

Norwegian is known for its personal touch.

As anyone who has sailed on the Norwegian Getaway, its newly refurbed mega-liner, can attest, this is true even when you share the ship with 3,962 others. It doesn’t hurt that the refreshed 800-piece art collection, up in the breezy Atrium, includes original works by sculptor Arik Levy. But the heart of this ship, a hot ticket for sunny Caribbean itineraries, has to be the numerous activities.

Kids can swish across the top deck on a zip line that goes joyfully fast or lose their minds (and voices) screaming from the free-fall slides at Aqua Park, while their parents do cocktails at the Bar at the Atrium, which has the best people-watching of the ship’s 20 places to grab a drink. The shore excursions, from a guided tour of historic New Orleans (shown) to bamboo rafting on the Martha Brae River in Jamaica, keep pace with anything on board. Western Caribbean, from $599. ncl.com

56 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

C uises:

Mo e Classics

In addition to the classics— the ships and itineraries that stand the test of time—it’s important to remember the fine niche experts on the high seas. These lines have a specific focus that gets travelers farther and deeper into a place or experience: Norway-based Hurtigruten has been around for over a century, and has recently led the charge on sustainability. Its approach to itineraries, such as a 16-day expedition voyage from Alaska and British Columbia aboard the Roald Amundsen, is influenced by the U.N. Sustainable Development Goals. ◆ Polished Ponant, a French line known for roll-up-your-Patagoniasleeves expedition cruising with high-end touches (staterooms have Hermès products), caps passenger capacity to make sure everyone gets as much out of their time as possible, like snaking through the wild Moluccas islands in the Malay archipelago on board its ship Le Laperouse. ◆ Small-ship expert Windstar keeps its experiences intimate, whether in the Mediterranean, South Pacific, or Mexico; find only a couple hundred passengers on the Star Breeze, which sails through secret coves for its Fishing for the Sea of Cortez itinerary. ◆ And Uniworld has brought new energy to river cruising with design-forward ships and innovative programming.

Its Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer is especially worthwhile, because it can help you see so much of China, from the terra-cotta warriors in Xi’an to the Great Wall and pandas, in just 11 days, which is much quicker than going by land.

PHOTOGRAPHS: JENNY ZARINS; SQUIRE FOXE

THE GOLD LIST 2020

The “Old Ritz”

est.

DEBUTING IN 2020

|

T H E N E W B U RY B O STO N .CO M

1927

THE GOLD LIST 2020

VIKING RA

ROUND-TRIP CAIRO As the Nile becomes a playground for the biggest names in river cruising, Viking’s Ra is the standout for its design and access. Its 26 blond-wood cabins, most with balconies from which you can catch sights like the temple complex of Dendera, were the hardest beds to secure when the ship launched in 2018. Here, Scandinavian reference points are gracefully offset with Arabic touches, like the sundeck canopies resembling dhow sail shades. Viking also scores big by showing guests more than typical bucket-list sights; in Nubia, a local Egyptologist leads tours through Philae Temple, and in Aswan (shown) traditional felucca sailboats get you closer to the activity on the riverbanks. Back on board, toast the North African sunset from one of the two hot tubs, under those dhow-style sails.

Pharaohs & Pyramids, from $4,899.vikingrivercruises.com

SEABOURN OVATION LISBON TO ATHENS

Chalk it up to design, but guests consistently find Ovation to be one of the most social ships in cruise. It may have to do with the fact that the Montaudon bubbly is endless and complimentary.

Drink it up on Deck 10’s Skybar for truly awesome views, though the nooks found throughout the ship are fun places to sit with a bottle or two, especially when the group then moves to a table at Thomas Keller’s Colonnade. Conversation over the tablesidetossed Caesar will focus on sights like the blow-your-mind Roman ruins in Spain’s under-the-radar Cartagena from earlier that day, after leaving from Lisbon (shown). Seabourn star designer Adam Tihany outdid himself on Ovation, partnering with Londonbased ArtLink on the 1,600-piece collection found throughout, to turn the ship into the world’s grandest floating museum.

That striking vase in the lobby? It’s by celebrated Korean ceramicist Yoo Eui Jeong. Autumn Isles, from $6,499. seabourn.com

MUMBAI TO ATHENS

Industry insiders know Silversea as the standard of style. So the line raised the bar for itself when it totally redid Silver Spirit in 2018, adding a 49-foot pool deck with sofas soft enough to sink into.

In other words, it is exactly the type of ship to easily spend, say, 26 days on—which happens to be the length of this itinerary.

From Mumbai, the vessel moves north, drifting past lesser-known parts of Arabia. Stop-offs are designed to leave guests more intimately connected to the places, from the beachside city of Salala in Oman, with its banana plantations and ring of mountains, to the towering Sheik Zayed mosque and other cultural attractions of Abu Dhabi (shown). Mumbai to Athens, from $12,900. silversea.com CONTRIBUTORS Jesse Ashlock; Rodney Bolt; Lauren DeCarlo; Mark Ellwood; Erin Florio; David Jefferys; Jenny Johnson; Rick Jordan; Tabitha Joyce; Annie Hanley; Rachel Howard; Sarah Khan; Steve King; Jane Knight; Mike Maceacheran; Lee Marshall; Rebecca Misner; Jen Murphy; Ed Peters; Corina Quinn; Maggie Shipstead; Toby Skinner; Melinda Stevens; Nicky Swallow; Janice Wald Henderson 58 Condé Nast Traveler January/February 2020

PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMES BEDFORD; ROX AND SAN PHOTOGRAPHY; MATTHEW BUCK; FREDERIC LAGRANGE/TRUNK ARCHIVE

SILVERSEA SILVER SPIRIT

A D V E R T I S E M E N T

2020

THE COLLECTION A group of luxurious resorts and destinations around the world

Sanctuary Cap Cana Bucuti & Tara Beach Resort This award-winning beach resort in Aruba is a retreat for romance and wellness on one of the “Dream Beaches of the World.� bucuti.com

Jewel Grande Montego Bay Resort & Spa Experience the ultimate all-inclusive resort in Montego Bay. Choose from a stunning one-, two-, or three-bedroom suite, each includes personal butler service to accommodate your every need. jewelgrande.com

Luxurious and romantic, this adults-only paradise combines beautiful architectural design with world-class service, stunning accommodations, and limitless indulgences for the ultimate allinclusive vacation. sanctuarycapcana.com

The Perry Hotel Key West This award-winning boutique hotel features direct marina access, sea-to-table dining, outdoor fire pits, panoramic waterfront views, and a modern-industrial design. perryhotelandmarina.com

V I S I T C N T P O S T. C O M F O R M O R E I N F O R M A T I O N

A D V E R T I S E M E N T

AMELIA ISLAND– FLORIDA’S ROYAL RETREAT A dreamy beach getaway loaded with historic charm, Amelia Island is northeast Florida’s crown jewel.

Say what you will about the Vanderbilts, DuPonts, and Carnegies, they knew a thing or two about living well. Those Gilded Age bon vivants helped crown Amelia Island “The Queen of Summer Resorts” at the peak of its Victorian

reaches. And lovely Amelia Island, with her

historic charm and intrigue, boasting the

authentic seaport village, became a well-kept

country’s first customs house and Florida’s

secret.

oldest newspaper, lighthouse, and—perhaps most importantly—saloon. Pull up a stool in that

heyday. With its breathtaking beaches and

Today, visitors can enjoy the best of both

year-round pleasant temperatures, this gem of

worlds—a perfectly preserved time capsule and

an isle—just 13 miles long and 2.5 miles across

a thoroughly modern seaside getaway, all on

at its widest point—was a magnet for well-

one cozy island. After a day spent in the waves

heeled Northerners, who journeyed to

or on the sand, explore the historic district of

As the birthplace of the modern shrimping

northeast Florida by steamship in search of

Fernandina Beach, whose 50 blocks of

industry, Amelia Island will not disappoint when

tranquil shores and warmer climes. The arrival

exquisite Victorian architecture now house an

it comes to fresh seafood and other culinary

of the railroad soon opened the way for

array of shops and eateries ranging from the

delights. You’ll find an abundance of dining

travelers to explore the state’s southernmost

quirky to the sublime. Fernandina abounds with

options, including one of Florida’s only AAA Five

establishment, The Palace Saloon, and raise a glass to the natural beauty and diverse experiences of this island destination.

Diamond restaurants, Salt at The Ritz-Carlton.

For visitors, accommodations range from the glamorous Omni Amelia Island Plantation Resort to irresistible boutique hotels and historic inns such as the Amelia Schoolhouse Inn or Elizabeth Pointe Lodge. Decadent spas and championship golf are, naturally, par for the course. And with a calendar packed with events and festivals, this royal retreat is ready to receive you any time of year.

COME MAKE MEMORIES. AMELIAISLAND.COM

T U L LY L U X U RY UNRIVALLED EXOTIC & ANCIENT ASIA

SO MUCH TO DISCOVER WITH OCEANIA

SILVER MOON. DISCOVER A NEW WORLD OF LUXURY

A cruise on Regent Seven Seas Cruises is the definition of all-inclusive luxury. Travel to exotic Asia aboard the award-winning Seven Seas Explorer (750 guests) and delight in luxurious all-suite surroundings, impeccable service, and exquisite dining. Ashore you will revel in the vast number of immersive complimentary shore excursions. Elevate your shore experience further by delving deeper into local cultures with Go Local and Regent Choice Small Group Tours (16 guests maximum). Regent enhances your vacation by also including Business Class Airfare and FREE Pre-or-Post Land Packages with many exotic cruises.

Filled with a spectacular array of diverse and exotic destinations, your world awaits your discovery. Oceania Cruises’ unique itineraries are wide-ranging, featuring the most fascinating destinations across the globe. The ships are both intimate and luxurious, calling on the world’s most desirable ports. On a voyage with Oceania Cruises each day offers the rewarding opportunity to experience the history, culture and cuisine of a wondrous new destination. With OLife Choice, you can enjoy Roundtrip Airfare* plus choose one: Inclusive Shore Excursions, Complimentary Beverage Package or Additional Shipboard Credit.

Silversea’s newest all-suite, all-inclusive intimate ship pushes the frontier of luxury travel with personal butler service for every suite and a cutting-edge culinary experience (S.A.L.T. Sea And Land Taste) that changes with every destination. Silver Moon will establish a new era of luxury, accommodating only 596 passengers beginning in August 2020 in the Mediterranean, cruising the region for her maiden season until November when she will cross the Atlantic Ocean to Fort Lauderdale. It will then continue its journey to Central and South America, where it will complete an incredible circumnavigation of the continent on a 70-day voyage visiting 37 destinations in 20 countries.

ZEN GARDENS & SAMURAI LEGENDS

TALES OF THE TASMAN

MEDITERRANEAN SILVER MOON CRUISE

Roundtrip Tokyo

Auckland to Sydney

Monte Carlo to Barcelona

11 Days | October 23, 2021

14 Days | January 19, 2021

9 Days | October 30, 2020

CULTURE & CUISINE OF ASIA

EASTERN ALLURE

SOUTH AMERICA SILVER MOON CRUISE

Bali to Bangkok

Tokyo to Singapore

Lima to Fort Lauderdale

15 Days | February 4, 2022

18 Days | May 1, 2021

9 Days | December 8, 2020

Worldwide itineraries to choose from

Worldwide itineraries to choose from

Various European itineraries available

CRUISE REPORT Mary Jean Tully, Founder & CEO

SEABOURN’S EXTRAORDINARY ASIA

30 YEARS OF AWARDWINNING LUXURY

ABOUT TULLY LUXURY TRAVEL Tully Luxury Travel designs life-enriching travel experiences with the utmost attention to detail. Whether you want to cruise the world in splendor, take an

Explore the heart of Asia, where exotic meets the unforgettable on every leg of your journey.

You’ll venture off the beaten path to capture experiences available only to those who arrive by sea. Seabourn continues to represent the pinnacle of luxury travel, with intimate ships offering distinctive features that set the line apart: Spacious, thoughtfully appointed suites, many with verandas and all ocean-front. Superb dining in a choice of venues, complimentary premium spirits and fine wines, award-winning service and a relaxed, sociable atmosphere. Sail with Seabourn to vibrant cities, gilded temples and fascinating cultures, all in ultra-luxury Seabourn style.

Crystal has made history in the Condé Nast Traveler 2019 Readers’ Choice Awards, taking the #1 spot for Best Medium-Ship Cruise Line, Best River Cruise Line, and Best Small-Ship Cruise Line. The Crystal Experience features a rich roster of allinclusive amenities, from specialty dining and the finest pour of wines, champagnes and premium spirits to Feng Shui-inspired spas, engaging enrichment and Broadwaystyle entertainment. They invite you to celebrate Crystal’s 30th Anniversary of award-winning personal luxury in 2020, exploring the Mediterranean in all-inclusive luxury.

unforgettable African safari or create a magnificent travel experience unique to you, Tully Luxury Travel has the unsurpassed knowledge, expertise and impeccable service you require.

WHY BOOK WITH US? •

Exclusive amenities offered on ALL sailings

•

VIP access to sites often closed to the general public

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Condé Nast Traveler “Top Travel Specialists” since 1999

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Top producing agency for the finest hotels such as Aman, Four Seasons, The Peninsula and The Ritz-Carlton

THE CORAL COAST & ORCHID ISLES

DELIGHTFUL DANUBE

Sydney to Benoa

Budapest to Regensburg

16 Days | March 22, 2020

8 Days | April 4, 2020

GEMS OF THE JAVA SEA

PALAIS TO PALAZZOS

Benoa to Singapore

Monte Carlo to Venice

10 Days | April 7, 2020

8 Days | May 3, 2020

Worldwide itineraries to choose from

Worldwide itineraries to choose from

CALL AND RECEIVE UP TO $1,000 ONBOARD SPENDING CREDIT PER CABIN ON ALL SAILINGS: 1 855 330 3418 tullyluxurytravel.com travel@tullyluxurytravel.com

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T H E D E S T I N AT I O N T H E M I D D L E E A S T

PHOTOGRAPH: RICHARD JAMES TAYLOR

THOUGH TRAVELERS TODAY MIGHT THINK ABOUT THE REGION FOR REASONS OTHER THAN THEIR NEXT VACATION, ITS HEADY MIX OF CULTURES AND LANDSCAPES HAS LONG CAPTURED THE WESTERN IMAGINATION. NOW, FRESH EXPERIENCES PROVIDE NEW REASONS TO GO. EDITED BY RICK JORDAN

THE FUTURISTIC MUSEUMS

The Jean Nouvel–designed National Museum of Qatar (shown), an archaeology and history museum that opened in March, may resemble a pileup of flying saucers at a pan-galactic spaceport, but its cracked-skin structure is actually inspired by desert roses, those miraculous crystalline forms that bloom in the sand. Meanwhile, opening in September, Dubai’s Museum of the Future, a showcase for innovation and design—including potential solutions to climate change—conjures a giant eye. In Jordan, the low-slung Petra Museum, devoted to the ancient Kingdom of Nabatea, debuted last year; sand-hued and subtle, the structure hardly detracts from the drama of the ancient city beyond it. R.J. January/February 2020 Condé Nast Traveler 65