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TAKE ME AWAY! I’M YOUR FREE COPY TO KEEP, COMPLIMENTS OF LIAT ISSUE 53  JANUARY - FEBRUARY 2020

FETE FANTASTIQUE! YOUR GUIDE TO FRENCH CARNIVAL LL

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DAZZLING DOMINICA WHY EVERYONE’S TALKING ABOUT THE NATURE ISLAND SUNKEN TREASURE BRILLIANT AND BIZARRE NEW BVI DIVE SITE

GREAT GLAMPSITES STAY WILD – IN STYLE

F R EE PLEASE T

THIS MAGAAKE ZIN AWAY! E

New year, new look CARIBBEAN DESIGNERS WITH FABULOUS FASHIONS FOR 2020!

 HOT EVENTS  FOOD INNOVATIONS  NEW BOOKS  MUSIC INSIGHTS

TRINIDAD GUYANA

BELIZE SURINAME

GUATEMALA PANAMA NICARAGUA

SAINT MAARTEN

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

HOME • CONTENTS • MOTOR • LIABILITY • BUSINESS • TRAVEL • MARINE

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ZiNG WELCOME

Get on board!

Fly into an exciting new decade with LIAT

COVER IMAGE: BROWN COTTON CARIBBEAN/ CG CREATIVE

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PLEASE TAKE THIS MAGAZINE AWAY WITH YOU & SHARE WITH YOUR FRIENDS

ZiNG CARIBBEAN IS PUBLISHED BY GECKO PUBLISHING LTD FOR LIAT, THE CARIBBEAN AIRLINE Gecko Publishing Ltd: 13 Kellys Road, Wheatley, Oxford, OX33 1NT, United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1844 278883 | Fax: +44 (0)1844 278893 editor@zingmag.net | www.zingmag.net EDITORS Sarah Baxter & Paul Bloomfield ART DIRECTOR Lisa Duke ADVERTISING MANAGER Lara Peperell Email: lara@zingmag.net | Tel: +44 (0)1844 278883 PUBLISHER Craig Rix ADMINISTRATION Sherry Rix ACCOUNTS Gavin Thomas MANAGING DIRECTOR Iain Wallace

FOR LIAT, THE CARIBBEAN AIRLINE: Commercial Department, Top Floor, Chelsea House, Chelsea Road, St Michael, Barbados BB14022 Tel: (246) 227 3850 | Fax: (246) 228 3336 marketing@liatairline.com | www.liat.com HEAD OF SALES AND MARKETING Egbert Riley

H

appy New Year from all of us here at LIAT! 2020 is filled with many possibilities and we at LIAT wish you a year filled with prosperity and travel across the Caribbean. As your airline of choice, we pledge to continue to improve our service to you, so that you can fly across the region safely, reliably and in the comfort of our ATR fleet.

This year we invite you to explore the various destinations with us, whether for business or pleasure.

In this issue of ZiNG magazine we explore the wonders of Dominica, which is proving to be one of the hottest destinations for 2020. We go feteing right across the French Caribbean as we delve into the Carnival traditions of the islands of Martinique, St Martin and Guadeloupe. We bring you the newest styles for the new year, and introduce the local designers you will want to 46 know. We also invite you to dive under the sea in the British Virgin Islands to discover the ‘pirate ship’ being turned into a living reef. And we look at the best hotels to pitch up and go camping.

So, jump into the pages and enjoy. Don’t forget: ZiNG magazine is complimentary and we encourage you to take this copy with you – 60 and another for a friend.

As always, stay smiling and live life to the fullest.

Tel: 1-246-629-0166 © Gecko Publishing Ltd and individual contributors. No part of the contents may be reproduced or stored in a retrievable system without prior written permission from the publishers. All advertisements and non-commissioned text are taken in good faith. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and LIAT assume no responsibility in effects risen therefrom. Material is submitted at the sender’s risk and the publishers and LIAT cannot accept responsibility for accidental loss or damage. ISSN: 2045-3477

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

JULIE REIFER-JONES CEO

38 ZiNG CARIBBEAN |

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Unpacking your love for adventure,

it’s in our

Nature.

Whether you’re seeking a destination wedding, an isolated honeymoon haven, or a romantic weekend for two, Dominica’s unspoiled, picturesque beauty and stunning natural wonders offer the perfect backdrop for indulging your passions.

Plan your getaway at

DiscoverDominica.com

e ng

ZiNG CONTENTS

what’s Your window into the Caribbean – find out what’s hot and happening across the LIAT network

FREE

FEATURES 38

WHY DOMINICA IS HOT IN 2020 Discover 20 reasons why the Nature Island is one of the most inspiring places to visit this year – from hiking trails and wildlife to unique culture and musical festivals

LiME 14

46

Bed down in the most romantic tents and thatched cabins across the region for real desert-island romance 52

| ZiNG CARIBBEAN

LE CARNAVAL! Play mas with a difference in the French Caribbean – head to Martinique, Guadeloupe and Saint Martin to prance, parade and party

NEW STYLE

Floating Bequia bar, fine chocolate from Trinidad & Tobago, hot pepper sauces and Grenadian art

8

5 GREAT GLAMPSITES

60 NEW YEAR,

HOT STUFF

20 VOICES Meet St Croix singer, songwriter, producer, actor and philanthropist Adam O 22 BOOKS Award-winning Barbadian author and film director Shakirah Bourne discusses her creative journey 24 FOOD What to eat, buy, cook, chop and sip around the region – French baking, rum and young gardeners in Barbados, Puerto Rican craft ales, tea in Grenada and Trini rum cake 28 EVENTS Your dates for January and February: hop to Mas Domnik in Dominica, watch movies in Barbados, sailing in Grenada, run in USVI and admire classical music in Guadeloupe 36 WE GATHERIN’ Celebrate the best of Barbados in 2020

PLEASE TAKE THIS MAGAZINE AWAY WITH YOU & SHARE WITH YOUR FRIENDS

16

Browse the latest couture from cutting-edge designers across the region, from shirts and swimwear to dresses and accessories 72

POSITIVELY WRECKED How sinking a famous boat bar created an artificial reef to boost conservation and tourism in BVI

22

28 Top: Sail, kayak or swim out for a drink at Bequia’s only floating bar Above: Head to Puerto Rico to watch the region’s top footballers in action Right: Meet award-winning Barbadian writer and film-maker Shakirah Bourne

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

ZiNG CONTENTS

20

NEED TO KNOW

LIAT ESSENTIALS 78

LIAT NEWS Read about our latest news and get excited by our new routes

46

80

WELCOME ABOARD Useful info to ensure you enjoy the best flying experience with LIAT

82

FLY HEALTHY Top tips to help you reach your destination feeling fresh, healthy and relaxed

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38

ROUTE MAP & DESTINATION GUIDES Need-to-know facts about our destinations.

This issue: focus on St Kitts

Top left: Head to the most romantic cabins and campsites in the Caribbean Left: Discover the cultures and natural wonders of Dominica Above: Meet singer, songwriter and actor Adam O Below: Take a front-row seat at the virtual catwalk showcasing top fashion designers from across the region

PLUS… 90

PUZZLES Give your brain a workout

92

KIDS Shiver me timbers – it’s all about pirates!

96

GOOD PEOPLE The last in our series of columns celebrates the warm heart of Caribbean people

60 January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

92 ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 9

LIME ADVERTISING FEATURE

PURE GRENADA

Something for everyone Relax, rejuvenate, explore, connect…

Live your Caribbean dream in Pure Grenada, the Spice of the Caribbean. Whether you wish to relax and rejuvenate, explore and connect with locals or immerse yourself in the flavourful cuisine of the islands, Grenada, Carriacou and Petite Martinique has something for everyone.

There’s so much to do in just 24 hours. You can start with a swim on the world-famous Grand Anse beach, snorkelling at the world’s first Underwater Sculpture Park before lunch and hiking in the rainforest around Grand Etang Lake in the afternoon. Then get ready for a great night of dining and entertainment – enjoying the island’s amazing musical talent.

A dream day in Grenada can also consist of a heady mixture of spices, rum and chocolate.

Enjoy a rum tour and include a visit to one of our five chocolate factories to learn more about

the bean to bar process while enjoying delectable organic chocolate. Grenada is famous for its spices and they can be found in abundance at the St. George’s Spice Market, in the local cuisine or luxurious spa treatments. Our diverse list of outdoor activities also includes dune buggy tours, waterfalls, sulphur springs, dive sites (including the worldrenowned Bianca C wreck), sailing, food and garden tours.

And don’t forget our amazing festivals. There’s several to enjoy in January and February….

Fishing From 26-30 January, anglers will converge in Grenada for five days of competitive fishing, cuisine, music and fun in the southern Caribbean’s premier sport-fishing event, the Spice Island Billfish Tournament. Held in St.George’s, anglers compete for bragging

rights and fabulous prizes by day and come together to party in cheerful camaraderie by night.  SIBT.GD

Sailing

 GRENADASAILINGFESTIVAL.COM

Grenada Sailing Week, 26-31 January, combines the warmth and charm of Grenada with ideal sailing conditions to create the perfect nautical event. It features a welcome party, racing on Grenada’s stunning South Coast, a lay day and racing on the calm pristine waters of the West Coast.  GRENADASAILINGWEEK.COM

Picture an electric atmosphere of competitive sailing, music, food and friendly people on Grenada’s famous Grand Anse Beach. That’s exactly what the annual Grenada Sailing Festival Workboat Regatta offers. The event on 1-2 February features local sailors racing colourful locally made wooden

Top: Pushing hard at the Grenada Workboat Regatta Far left: A big catch at the Spice Island Billfish Tournament Left: A battle of words during the Shakespeare Mas, Carriacou Carnival

10 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

boats while being cheered on by their communities. You can enjoy the races, while connecting with locals and relishing authentic spice infused cuisine.

Independence day Grenada’s Independence celebrations on 7 February are a visual spectacle – and all are invited. Celebrations include a military parade, cultural performances, island music, local cuisine and fireworks. The highlight is Grenadians displaying their national pride by wearing creative outfits in the colours of the flag: red, green and gold.

Carriacou’s Carnival On 24-25 February head over to Carriacou for carnival. You can expect to enjoy wonderfully expressive street dances, island music, the Jab Jab and even the Shakespeare Mas. This masquerade, authentic to Carriacou, involves men dressed in bright-coloured costumes reciting Shakespeare verses, hoping not to fluff their lines, otherwise surrendering to the playful tap of their opponent’s stick.  To plan your trip today, visit WWW.PUREGRENADA.COM/ PLAN/EVENTS

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

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SOCIALISE AND IN

, AT A PARTY,

CA RN IV

All the juiciest news, reviews & interviews you need to read this month

. LIME BEACH (v) TO

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these and happe hotspots n the LIAT ings on k

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IN F

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ONE TO WATCH

PLUS

Trini designer RisAnne Martin, founder of Brown Cotton Caribbean, doesn’t just do fashion – she creates wearable art. “Dynamic, Caribbean-rooted and timeless, our products are usually one of a kind, handpainted and handmade,” says RisAnne.

Signature pieces include kaftan gowns, harness tops and Carnival couture; BCC also provides styling services for TV and print campaigns. RisAnne likes to give back, too: “Youth mentorship is at the heart of everything we do, and it is our mandate to continue our valuable work in this field.”

 WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/BCOSTYLE

 Hot stuff... Spicy sauce, floating bars, artistic talent  Brilliant books... Shakirah Bourne  Epic events... Mas Domnik, raucous regattas, film and football  Food for thought... French baking, craft beers, rum cakes  Q&A... USVI singer Adam O + Your presidential decrees

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 11

Never too old to party!

LIME THE BIG PICTURE

Join the fabulous festivities in Puerto Rico’s venerable capital The heat is on in old San Juan! Puerto Rico’s biggest celebration, the Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastián, erupts across the capital from 15 to 19 January. The cobbled streets and handsome plazas will be overflowing with live music, spontaneous dancing, artisan stalls, awesome acrobatics and much more. It sets the tone for what promises to be a whole year of revelry:

12 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

in 2020, the UNESCO-listed city has a range of events planned to mark the run-up to its 500-year anniversary. San Juan was founded by Juan Ponce de León in 1521, and this coming year the city will mark the occasion by embracing its Taino, African, Spanish and North American traditions.  WWW.DISCOVERPUERTORICO.COM

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 13

Marlon’s must-hear track...

‘Redemption Song’ by Bob Marley – as relevant today as the day it was written

HOTVOICE

5 minutes with…

Marlon Roudette

What made you want to pursue music? I have a very creative family. My earliest memories are of the artists and musicians my mother knew. We went to watch Phase II Steel Orchestra in Trinidad when I was about eight, and I was hooked.

When we moved to St Vincent, I learned to play the tenor pan with my first music teacher, Ashley Kirby.

14 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

PAUL MEYER

We caught up with the British-Vincentian singer, songwriter, producer and former vocalist for electronic duo Mattafix

Who has been influential for you on your journey? My basketball coach, Orlando Ferguson, heard me rapping outside KFC in Kingstown when I was 15 and told me I had a special talent. That was a pivotal conversation. I was also a very average basketball player!

You’ve collaborated recently with the likes of Jamaica’s Busy Signal and British pop

star Mabel. How different is it writing for other people?

Writing and collaborating with other artists has given my career a new lease of life. There is a deep satisfaction that comes from helping to launch someone else’s career and changing their lives through creativity. I can shed some light on the successes and also the failures, of which there have been many!

Where feels like home?

St Vincent & the Grenadines, undoubtedly. A few years back I got a flat tyre by the roadside in Arnos Vale, and a friend stopped to help. Some friends of ours were coming back from the beach in a pick-up with some drinks in the cooler, and they also pulled over. They cranked up the stereo, and before I knew it more people stopped and we had a small street party going on. I clean forgot about the flat tyre! This sums up the vibe in Vincy for me, and why I will always love it there.

Who inspires you creatively?

First, my mother, Vonnie Roudette, who has worked in textiles and set design, and has taught art for many years. She’s a successful artist in her own right, and now runs a prison rehabilitation programme in St Vincent. She’s constantly innovating and evolving. Also, Etienne Charles, the Trinidadian trumpet player – he puts a terrific live band on the road for Trinidad Carnival every year and has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the history of Caribbean music. Lastly, Shake Keane, a jazz musician and poet from St Vincent. I’ve found his music in jazz sections in shops across the world, which is such an inspiring achievement from one of my countrymen. His book, One a Week With Water, is one of my favourites, and documents Vincentian daily life beautifully.

When you’re not busy being a pop star, what do you like to do in your free time? Travelling, reading, collecting vinyl records and hanging with my steel band Mangrove whenever I can.  @MARLONROUDETTE

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

LIME HOT STUFF

HOTTALENT

Madly skilled

Left: Co-founder Kerry Ollivierre (in red) Below: Kayak or swim out for your drink!

HOTSPOT

Drink adrift

Sail over for a cocktail at Bequia’s only floating bar Bar One at Admiralty Bay is an old construction barge converted into a trendy hangout by SVG brothersin-law Kerry Ollivierre and Ivor Simpson. The cocktails feature locally grown fruits and herbs; the ginger beer is made fresh every morning. Getting there is part of the fun. “Arrive via your own dinghy, by kayak or with a short water-taxi ride,” says Ivor. “Some customers even swim out for their drink!”

ERICA VIRVO, NICOLA CORNWELL, CANYON DUNCAN

Meet Grenadian artist Richie Modeste At only 22 years old, a talented young man from Waltham, St Mark, has already won awards for his work – and even gained a royal seal of approval.

Growing up in a family that enjoyed art, Richie Modeste strove to become as good as his mother and brothers, and competed with his friends to see who could draw the best likenesses. “We would challenge each other every day,” says Richie.

“There was something that made me feel so good about drawing.

Those were some of the best moments of my life.”

After school, Richie went on to the New Life Organization, where a challenge was set to draw Prince Harry. Richie’s picture was chosen as one of the best and, when the prince visited the island in 2016, Richie met him.

“When I gave him the drawing, he was amazed,” says Richie. “He said: ‘You have mad skills’. That made me feel so good. I was then

encouraged to experiment with painting. My dream is to create an image that is full of life, that inspires others and makes people feel part of the moment.”

Richie won the 2018 Grenada Festival Of The Arts painting competition with The Nutmeg Princess. And at last August’s Grenada Art Council popup exhibition, he won Most Recognised Artist. He’s hoping to get a job in construction to pay the bills while developing his art and developing his dream to set up a home gallery for his work.

“The artists in Grenada are amazing,” says Richie. “We encourage and inspire each other to be the best we can be, and we strive towards greatness by using our creativity to communicate. Creativity is like the soul of Grenada – we use it in our everyday lives to bring our families closer together.”  @RICHIEMODESTE6

Skinny Coconut Mojito

Most popular drinks? Order a Skinny Coconut Mojito or a Shark Bite, an adventurous mix of Malibu, Blue Curacao, pineapple juice and lime  FACEBOOK & INSTAGRAM: BARONEBEQUIA

16 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

HOTFLAVOUR

GOLDEN BALLS!

Savour the new flavours of delicious Trinidad & Tobago chocolate The Trinidad & Tobago Fine Cocoa Company has created something special for the new year. In collaboration with a number of award-winning international chefs, TTFCC has produced a range of chocolate desserts, including the ‘Trinitario 24-carat Golden Nugget’, a mouthwatering fusion of milk and dark chocolate with a passion-fruit centre and crisp wafer base. Launched at the Hyatt Trinidad, the range will be sold in Harrods, London, later in 2020.

 WWW.TTFINECOCOA.COM

20 February is the birthday of a certain DATE Robyn Rihanna Fenty.

Why not celebrate her 32nd year with a pilgrimage to Westbury New Road, on the outskirts of Bridgetown – the street on which she grew up, since renamed Rihanna Drive. Pop into one of the street’s two rum shops and raise a glass to Ri-Ri!

HOT

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 17

LIME HOT STUFF

HOT FOOD

5 FIERCE PEPPER SAUCES

you need to try!

1 3

Here are just five top tongue-tinglers. Which are your favourites?

1

PAPAYO, TRINIDAD & TOBAGO Made with habanero and scorpion peppers, plus just the right amount of chadon beni (cilantro) for that hot but tasty flavour.  INSTA: @PAPAYO.TT

4

2

2

OLD DUPPY, BARBADOS

Six varieties, ranging from the mild Zesty Jalapeño (smoked jalapeños, lime, dill, chadon beni) to the X, a potent combination of scotch bonnet, Trinidad scorpion and carolina reaper peppers.

Crowd favourite remains the Fiery Pineapple, a smooth blend of smoked scotch bonnets, pineapple, mustard and garlic.

3

ERICA’S COUNTRY STYLE, ST VINCENT & THE GRENADINES Erica’s line includes a pepper jelly and a passion pepper jelly as well as an extra-hot yellow pepper sauce – not for the faint of heart.  FB: ERICASCOUNTRYSTYLE

4

FLAURIEL, ST KITTS & NEVIS

Flavours include Mango Passion, Passion Fruit and Curry Coconut.

Use them to add heat to a dish, as a marinade or in boozy cocktails.  INSTA: @FLAURIEL_FOODS

5

GUN HILL PEPPER SAUCE, ST VINCENT & THE GRENADINES This flavourful sauce, which combines savoury chunks of pawpaw with other fresh ingredients and a unique blend of spices, is made fresh in small batches.  +1 784 528 273

5

 INSTA: @OLDDUPPY.BB

NEW ANTIGUA BOUTIQUE RETREAT

We love the look of the new Great House Antigua, an eight-bed retreat set in a 350-year-old stone HOTEL plantation property. Four individually styled suites have antique furnishings and mahogany four-poster beds; four new garden cottages also sit in 26 acres of tropical grounds.

HOT

 WWW.THEGREATHOUSEANTIGUA.COM

18 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

CREATING GREATER BUILDING EXPERIENCES For over 40 years, we have commited to providing the highest quality in building techniques and customer satisfaction. With a flexible and innovative approach, we deliver scalable solutions to meet every building need.

Hospitality Residential Commercial Infrastructure

+1 (246) 439-9242 Spring Hall, St. Lucy, Barbados inquire@jadagroup.com www.jadagroup.com

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 19

LIME CARIBBEAN VOICES

Q&A: Adam O Adam O is a singer, songwriter, producer, actor, philanthropist and entrepreneur from St Croix, USVI. He’s St Croix’s Reigning ‘Jumpy’ Soca Monarch and was the 2019 ‘People’s Choice’ winner at the Crucian Christmas Festival. He’s also lead singer of the Cool Breeze Band, with whom he tours the world on a mission to provide laughter, love and unity through music

A1KING

What’s your earliest childhood memory? Going to the beach with my mother. And eating almost every fruit in my grandmother’s yard.

Tell us a secret about your island. Point Udall on St Croix is considered the easternmost part of the USA. Every New Year’s Eve people gather there to celebrate the first US sunrise.

Wht’s your favourite place in the Caribbean? A small island off St Croix called Buck Island – especially on a Sunday, when all the boats anchor and people just drink fellowship and enjoy each other.

Where would you most like to be right now? On the beach.

I love the ocean.

What’s your favourite way to lime? I love to lime with people who have a good vibe. If you’re boujie or anti-social I probably won’t enjoy your company.

Once rum, music and good vibes is flowing, I’m good to go.

What would you choose for your last supper? Lobster, shrimp and steak Alfredo, vanilla ice cream and warm, fresh banana bread.

Who would you invite to your dream dinner party?

All my homies. A group of people who can make you laugh and enjoy the time you have, regardless of what’s going on in the world, is priceless.

What’s your favourite word?

Blessing. Because everything in life is a blessing to me.

The first few moments we experience when we wake up is a blessing in itself.

What’s your favourite movie? One Love. It was the movie that made me want to truly love a woman despite the odds.

What would your super power be? The ability to fly. I just want to escape and discover new places.

Where did you fly to last?

New York.

Where are you flying to next? St Croix.

What do you always pack?

My little studio set-up, in case I get inspired on the road.

What three things sum up the Caribbean for you?

Love, unity, perseverance.

 WWW.SOULSOUNDENT.COM/ADAMOEPK; WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/ OFFICIALADAMO; TWITTER/INSTAGRAM: @OFFICIALADAMO

20 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

LIME BRILLIANT BOOKS

BOOKS

3 GREAT READS

Try these diverse and diverting new Caribbean titles

60 SECONDS WITH…

Shakirah Bourne The award-winning Barbadian author and screenplay writer discusses her creative journey What led you on a path to writing?

exciting when several agents responded favourably to my work and requested to read the full manuscript. The process took about four months before I signed with my current agent.

I’m a writer because I was a reader. I always thought of writing as a hobby, so I never pursued formal training. My background is in management. When I was 21, I did a Masterclass in Writing conducted by George Lamming, and it was life-changing. I took THREE GREATS TO TRY... writing courses online, then a screenwriting My Fishy Stepmom (2019) adult education A charming children’s tale programme at Barbados In Time of Need (2013) Community College A fascinating collection and the University of of short stories Edinburgh. Now I’m A Caribbean Dream (2017) a full-time freelance Movie adaptation of Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream writer. Crazy, right?

SEEKING SHAKIRAH

Your work has been recognised internationally. What was one of the most meaningful experiences?

In 2019 I was a selected author at the Edinburgh International Book Festival. When I studied Arts Management in Edinburgh, I wanted to do my placement at that festival but it was set in Barbados You have blogged very competitive. To be invited back as an author about acquiring an nine years later felt surreal, especially agent. Briefly, what was your experience?

I got my agent via the slush pile. I did when I saw my name and photo in the extensive research online and selected programme and my book in the bookstore agents whose profile or hashtags next to so many authors I admire. It was suggested they would be a good fit for my like being backstage at the literary Oscars, diverse manuscripts, using sites such as and so inspiring to be surrounded by likeManuscript WishList and Query Tracker. minded individuals in a creative space.

I wrote cold query letters, sent sample pages and hoped for the best. It was  WWW.SHAKIRAHBOURNE.COM PAGE BY CAROL MITCHELL, FOUNDER OF CARIBBEANREADS PUBLISHING AND AUTHOR OF THE CARIBBEAN ADVENTURE SERIES, AMONG OTHER CHILDREN’S BOOKS. VISIT WWW.CARIBBEANREADS.COM

22 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

US AGAINST ALZHEIMER’S: STORIES OF FAMILY, LOVE, AND FAITH (ARCADE) EDITED BY MARITA GOLDEN This groundbreaking multicultural anthology shares moving personal stories, both non-fiction and fiction, about the impacts of Alzheimer’s and dementia, each showing how witnessing the disease can be both utterly devastating and powerfully transformative. The book features several Caribbean authors including Edwidge Danticat, Elizabeth Nunez, Katia D Ulysse and Lauren Francis-Sharma.

WHEN THE SKY FELL (APOLLO) BY MICHAEL DEIBERT A searing dissection of what happened in Puerto Rico in the wake of Hurricane Maria in 2017, from the acclaimed investigative reporter Michael Deibert. This book looks at the island’s preparations for such an event and its relationship with the United States as well as the political aftermath of the disaster and tales of ordinary people doing heroic things.

BOONOONOONOUS HAIR! (TRADEWINDS)

BY OLIVE SENIOR Commonwealth Prize-winning JamaicanCanadian author Olive Senior and acclaimed artist Laura James – the team who created Anna Carries Water – have paired up again to produce this vibrant and exquisitely illustrated picture book. It tells the tale of a young girl who learns to love her difficult-to-manage, voluminous and ‘boonoonoonous’ hair – a fantastic Jamaican patois word meaning wonderful.

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 23

LIME FABULOUS FOOD

FOOD Where to eat, drink, sip and celebrate fabulous food across the Caribbean region, by Janet Kipling

EAT THIS…

La Baguette Seek out the new bakery bringing authentic French bread and pastries to hungry Barbadians Nothing beats the sublime smell of fresh baking bread. And if you’re near St James, you can not only feast on the fragrance but enjoy the results thanks to La Baguette, bringing authentic French bread, cakes and pastries to delighted Bajans.

After years baking in France, Jackie and Franck Risler fell in love with Barbados while on vacation, and decided to set up a boulangerie right there.

Opened in summer 2019, La Baguette bakes a range of French breads and pastries, from pain au chocolat to sweet and fluffy brioche; coffee is also available.

“It is such a pleasure when customers come in saying how lovely it smells,” says Jackie. “We meet people from all over the world, and we have many regular customers who come every day to get their fresh baguettes.”

Right & below: La Baguette bakes cakes, bread and other treats

 1 & 2 PORTERS PLACE, ST JAMES; WWW.LABAGUETTEBARBADOS.COM

24 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

LIME FABULOUS FOOD

EAT THIS…

Twin Isle Rum Cake Trinidad’s sumptuous Twin Isle Rum Cake is the result of years of testing and refining. Shirley Vilain Hargreaves, a retired flight attendant-turned-caterer, launched her first commercial rum cake in 2007. “Having spent 27 years travelling the world,” she says, “I saw the potential for a commercial rum cake that was made by hand to really high standards.” The rebranded Twin Isle Rum Cake, launc includes va infused pre rum. It com chocolate, and piña co varieties as well as the delicious original.  WWW.TWINISLERUM.COM

SAY CHEERS TO THIS…

BOQUERÓN BREWING COMPANY

Former engineer Juan C TorresMonllor founded the Boquerón Brewing Company in 2011. Today, Boquerón produces 20 different varieties and sells around 20,000 cases a year. “We want to produce the highest quality ale in the Caribbean, not the highest quantity,” says Juan.

The company’s two flagship beers – La Boquerón Blonde and Crash Boat IPA – are available year round; seasonal offerings include El Sato Pale Ale and 3 Palmas Milk Stout. “We name our beers after local landmarks in order to create awareness and support tourism,” says Juan.

“We’d love to see Puerto Rico become a Caribbean craft beer destination.”

 WWW.BOQUERONBREWINGCO.COM

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

Left and above: Che and Kelly French launched Trini Box in 2018 Below: Boxes include snacks and recipe ideas

SAMPLE THIS…

MY TRINI BOX

Homesick Trinis craving the flavours of their island can now get them delivered to their door worldwide My Trini Box was founded by newlyweds Che and Kelly French. During their college years outside Trinidad & Tobago, they found it difficult to buy snacks and ingredients from home. A little idea turned into a business, and My Trini Box launched in August 2018.

“My Trini Box is aimed not only at Trinibagonians living elsewhere, but also anyone who wishes to discover our country,” says Kelly. “We offer monthly subscriptions or one-time gift boxes with no commitments.”

To date, boxes have been sent as far as Australia, Iraq, China, the UK and Canada.

Che and Kelly have partnered with Trinidadian chef Khary Roberts of Épice Culinary Services, who has created authentic recipes such as breadfruit oildown, curry crab and dumplin’ and pelau.

The boxes contain ingredients and cooking instructions, as well as items such as pepper sauce, preserved plums,

chadon beni, Catch and Lunch chocolate bars, and even local music and clothes. “We like to include local businesses to allow them the opportunity for international discovery through our boxes,” says Kelly.

“The theme changes each month,” she adds. “November’s

box had a Divali theme, while December was Christmas.”

“We’re not just a subscription box,” adds Che, “our website is becoming a growing international hub for all things Trini.”  WWW.MYTRINIBOX.COM

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 25

LIME FABULOUS FOOD

DRINK THIS…

FOURSQUARE RUM DISTILLERY Pay a visit to one of the few remaining familyowned rum distilleries in the Caribbean

JUMP ON THIS…

Educational Gardens How Slow Food Barbados is working to inform children via agriculture

Slow Food Barbados’s Educational Gardens programme aims to reconnect Caribbean youth with the journey their food takes from farm to plate. Since 2015, gardens have been installed in 15 schools and institutions around the island.

Once the gardens are established, volunteers offer ongoing support through workshops. Julie McNeel, director of the programme, notes: “We’re empowering youth to be informed eaters, and to gain sustainable agricultural knowledge and skills.” Some of the schools’ canteens use the gardens’ produce in their meals; other schools have set up farmers’ markets to sell their harvest.

26 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

Top & above: Kids love getting involved with the gardens at their schools – as well as learning important lessons about where their food comes from, and how to develop sustainable agricultural knowledge and skills

 WWW.SLOWFOODBARBADOS.ORG

Barbados’s Foursquare rum has history. It’s been wholly owned by the Seale family for the past 25 years, and is produced on an estate dating back over 250 years; the old ‘still house’, designated a property of Historical and Architectural Interest by the Barbados National Trust, is one of the island’s oldest buildings.

The distillery exports RL Seale’s 10 Year Old, the Foursquare exceptional cask series, the Doorly’s range of fine rums and the Real McCoy Rum. The distillery also produces John D Taylor’s Velvet Falernum, a uniquely Barbadian rumbased liqueur.

Some of the rums are still distilled in the traditional copper pot. “The pot still gives the rum greater complexity and depth of flavour, and is truly an artisanal small batch process,” says owner Richard Seale.

“Other rums are distilled in the more modern twin column, which still allows the final blend to have a superior balance, both in aroma and on the palate. Innovation means that distillation is performed under vacuum and thus at a lower temperature, producing a better quality spirit.”

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

LIME FABULOUS FOOD

TREAT YOURSELF TO THIS…

Tower Estate Tea Enjoy an elegant afternoon amid glorious gardens at a historic home in Grenada

Most rum from Foursquare is aged in American white oak barrels from Kentucky that have previously been used to mature bourbon.

Some signature blends have also been matured in former sherry and madeira casks.

“The warm climate in the Caribbean means the rate of maturation is much faster,” adds Richard. “A rum aged for five years in the Caribbean will have the same maturity as a spirit aged in Europe for about ten years.”

Foursquare has been named International Spirits Challenge Rum Producer of the Year four times (20162019) and International Wine & Spirits Competition Rum Producer of the Year twice, in 2016 and 2018. The distillery is open Monday-Friday, 10am4pm, for free tours on the estate, which is in the southeast of the island.  FOUR ROADS; WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/ FOURSQUARE.RUMDISTILLERY.

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

What could be more refined than an indulgent afternoon tea served in a historic house, surrounded by lush tropical gardens? That’s what’s on offer at the Tower Estate, where a traditional English menu features tiers of fresh-baked cakes, cucumber sandwiches, devilled eggs and other delicacies, plus beautifully blended teas using ingredients from the on-site farm – blue butterfly pea flowers, sorrel, lemon grass, soursop, cinnamon – all served on and in antique crockery.

The house was built in 1913 by the Grenadian lawyer CFP Renwick. In 1945 Dr Leonard

Slinger bought the estate for the then princely sum of £3,280; it has been in the family ever since.“It is a fine example of a West Indian great house,” says Isabelle Slinger, who currently manages the estate.

“It has two-foot-thick walls, elaborately carved mahogany ceiling, and a shingle roof that has survived two big hurricanes.”

Listed in the book 1,001 Gardens You Must See Before You Die, the estate’s two-acre plot is a plant enthusiast’s dream, with beds of evergreen and flowering shrubs, an extensive collection of heliconias, bromeliads and ginger lilies,

and many tropical trees, designed to provide year-round colour.

The estate farm also provides a wealth of produce. “We collaborate with Chef Belinda of Flavours of Grenada to offer a Great House Sunday Brunch,” says Isabelle.

“We’ve also started a farm-to-fork culinary experience – guests pick vegetables and fruit, and learn how to use them to create new dishes; they sit on rustic benches under the mango trees and watch Chef Belinda cooking their lunch on an open fire.”

Afternoon tea is served Wednesday-Friday and on the first Saturday of the month (EC$65pp; reservations required). Garden tours run on Fridays (EC$40pp).

Left: Tea is served in antique crockery at Tower Estate Above: Blended teas use ingredients from the garden, such as sorrel and blue butterfly pea flowers

 WWW.THE TOWERESTATE GRENADA.COM

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 27

LIME EXCITING EVENTS

Mas Domnik, 24-25 Dominica FEB

Dominica’s Carnival is often dubbed the ‘Real Mas’ – it has very much stayed true to the traditions of the past. Over the course of a month, a succession of pageants, parades and parties is held across the island: look out for events including the Mother’s Queen Show, Miss Teen Dominica, the National Queen Pageant and the Calypso Monarch contest. It all leads up to the big, two-day Street Jump Up. Carnival Monday kicks off with early morning J’Ouvert madness in Roseau, before the parade of traditional costumed characters – from Darkies to Black Devils. On Tuesday the new Carnival King and Queen are introduced, more mas bands take to the road and calypso tunes fill the air.

11 HOT HAPPENINGS NOT TO MISS THIS SEASON...

LiME DiARY

 WWW.DISCOVERDOMINICA.COM

28 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

FLY TO DOMINICA WITH US! LIAT flies direct to Dominica from Antigua and Barbados

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

LIME EXCITING EVENTS

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 29

LIME EXCITING EVENTS

31 JANUARY-2 FEBRUARY

Women’s Champions Cup, Puerto Rico Elite footballers from the Caribbean and Central America will compete in this superb tournament in Mayaguez. Follow the progress of the most skilled soccer players from the top women’s clubs in the Caribbean Football Union and the Unión Centroamericana de Fútbol, representing 38 member countries. The sport is growing in popularity, and this event will bring together the stars of the future, as well as promoting and growing women’s football in the region – and promises thrilling sport-viewing.  WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/WOMENSCHAMPIONSCUP

14-19 JANUARY

26-31 JANUARY

Barbados Independent Film Festival, Barbados

GRENADA SAILING WEEK, GRENADA

With a mission to ‘embrace the power of storytelling to inform, inspire and entertain’, BIFF is a star-studded and creative tour de force of a festival. Expect a host of screenings, from shorts to documentaries, and even special guest events – the likes of Sigourney Weaver have attended in recent years. There are workshops and masterclasses, and opportunities to lunch, brunch and dine with the movies.

Awards are also part of the event: in 2019, Harry Belafonte was honoured as a Living Legend.

This highly anticipated regatta kicks off the sailing season in the beautiful blue waters of Grenada.

Open to everyone, it promises four days of fun and exciting racing, involving some very competitive boats, plus spicy evenings that see both participants and spectators enjoy the party. The event is held at the prestigious Camper & Nicholson’s Port Louis Marina in St George’s and the secluded Secret

 WWW.BARBADOSFILMFEST.ORG

 WWW.GRENADASAILINGWEEK.COM

30 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

Harbour Marina in Mount Hartman Bay, showcasing the very best Grenada has to offer. The final night celebration is renowned as an upscale spectacular.

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

St. Vincent Distillers Ltd, Mt. Bentick, Georgetown, St. Vincent & the Grenadines www.sunsetrum.com | svdl@vincysurf.com

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 31

LIME EXCITING EVENTS

NOT TO BE MISSED

29 FEBRUARY

8 Tuff Miles Road Race, USVI

18 JANUARY

Xperience Fete, Trinidad & Tobago Head to Brian Lara Stadium for this six-hour pre-breakfast fete.

BERNARD MARTINEZ

 WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/ XPERIENCEFETE

14-16 FEBRUARY

Multihull Challenge, Sint Maarten 7-22 FEBRUARY

STEVE SIMONSEN PHOTOGRAPHY

NUITS CARAÏBES, GUADELOUPE

This road race festival, celebrating its 24th year in 2020, has grown to become one of the largest attended running events in the region. The race, from one end of St John to the other, attracts serious runners as well as those in it just for fun. You can see why: the prizes on offer range from college scholarship funds to bar tabs at local hostelries. The event also raises funds for charity – in past years recipients have included a range of good causes such as Save the Children and local pan bands.  WWW.8TUFFMILES.COM

32 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

This wonderful music festival brings classical sounds to a host of gorgeous venues across Guadeloupe. Perhaps the most beautiful and sonorous of all is the Cathédrale Notre-Damede-Guadeloupe de Basse-Terre – it’s a treat to hear top-calibre talent in such an acoustically outstanding space. The festival comes of age this year, celebrating its 18th birthday with style and panache. Stars set to perform include renowned pianist Yves Henry, guitarist Emmanuel Rossfelder, cellist Astrig Siranossian (pictured above) and many more.  WWW.NUITS-CARAIBES.COM

Enjoy the second multihull event with Sint Maarten Yacht Club.  WWW.SMYC.COM

19-25 FEBRUARY

Carnaval Ponceño, Puerto Rico Join vejigantes (folk characters), a masquerade ball and the Burial of the Sardine.  DISCOVERPUERTORICO.COM

22 FEBRUARY

Independence Day, St Lucia Celebrations include a military march and Annou We-y parade.  WWW.STLUCIA.ORG

23 FEBRUARY

MASHRAMANI, GUYANA Celebrate the anniversary of the republic of Guyana with parades, cooking, music and games.  WWW.GUYANATOURISM.COM

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

954.327.2478 | sales@dacoworld.com | www.dacoworld.com

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 33

LIME CARIBBEAN VOICES

WHAT WOULD YOU DO?

Your point of view “What would you do if you were president for the day?”

As 2020 begins with global affairs in a state of flux, we sent Jeneille Lewis to find out how YOU would run the world…

AMARA BAILEY (AGE 4) FUTURE PRESIDENT, ST VINCENT & THE GRENADINES “If I was president for a day I would teach people that sharing is caring.”

JARYL MOORE FITNESS INSTRUCTOR, GUYANA

“PROMOTING HEALTH, WELLNESS AND EXERCISE WOULD BE MY FOCAL AREA. DISEASES SUCH AS CANCER AND DIABETES ARE ON THE RISE, AND WITH HUMAN HEALTH BEING THE PIVOT FOR THE CREATION OF A COUNTRY’S WEALTH, COMMUNITIES NEED TO FOCUS ON MORE CONSCIOUS LIFESTYLE PRACTICES”

PH CEO OF DE ISLAND CO

“To start the process of has to first clean up. I’d ga of likeminded individual the country’s best interes to help restructure an internally, with in

34 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

.liat.com | January - February 2020

JASON AUDAIN PHOTOGRAPHER, TRINIDAD & TOBAGO

“First thing, get crime under control. Then I’d try to get youths involved in building the country, because that’s the only way for them to appreciate it. I’d change the way the schools teach, for example, to give kids actual life skills.”

KAREN DEFREITAS FASHION DESIGNER AT SOKA, ST VINCENT & THE GRENADINES

“I’D MAKE IT A DAY OF WELLNESS. IMAGINE A DAY OF MEDITATION, PRAYER, YOGA, SELFLOVE AND VOLUNTEERING; A DAY WITH LOVED ONES; A DAY IN NATURE. WE NEED LOVE, GRACE AND COMPASSION FOR EACH OTHER, ESPECIALLY IN THIS RAT RACE.” BLOSSOM PAUL-MITCHELL ACCOUNTANT, ST LUCIA “I’d focus on gun control and improving the mental health of young people: I would restrict retailers from selling weapons to civilians and encourage the youth to become more sociable outside of social media through selfesteem building programmes.”

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

SHAWN MAILE CO-OWNER OF TREK TOURS, ANTIGUA & BARBUDA “I would lobby world leaders to take more drastic action on climate change. Then I’d travel to Antigua to go hiking and enjoy the views from the top of the island.”

LIME EVENTS EXTRA

36 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

We Gatherin’!

Celebrate a year of homecoming, community and development in Barbados for 2020 Get ready to gather! 2020 is the year for Barbadians – and those who love Barbados – to return to the island, to reconnect with family and friends, help redefine the national identity and invest in its development. We Gatherin’ sweeps south across the island during the year, with each parish enjoying a month to showcase its unique cuisine, sights and sounds. Events culminate in December with an ‘old time Bajan Christmas’ extravaganza. “Let us gather in 2020 to have conversation, fun and fellowship, tell our story, share our passions, inspire each other and give back to make a difference in the communities that helped nurture us,” urges Prime Minister Mia Amor Mottley. “Let us all work together to build the best Barbados!”

BAJANS ARE INVITED TO...  Celebrate all things Bajan: culture, heritage, food, leaders, innovators and more.  Nominate Barbadians who are examples of excellence in their community, schools, churches and across the public and private sector.  Participate in the Barbados Hospitals national philanthropy project by donating money, time or

expertise in the healthcare system.  Attend parish events throughout Barbados.  Create events to celebrate We Gatherin’.  Engage in the series of national conversations with the Prime Minister.  Clean up surroundings as part of the national beautification campaign.  Plant at least two trees – the aim is to plant a million trees in 2020 as part of the Greening of Barbados

PARISH

MONTH

THEME

St Lucy

January

Faith

St Peter

February

Heritage

St Thomas

March

Nature

St Joseph

April

Adventure

St John

May

Community

St George

June

The Land

St Philip

July

Sugar

St Andrew

August

The Arts

St James

September

Cricket

Christ Church

October

The Sea

St Michael

November

Feting & Food

NATIONWIDE

30 Nov-31 Dec

Friends & Family

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

initiative. Seedlings will be hatched by the National Conservation Commission, the Ministry of Agriculture, private nurseries and schools, and children and community groups will plant trees in schools, community spaces and the National Botanical Gardens.

BARBADIANS OF THE DIASPORA ARE INVITED TO...  Come home in 2020 and reconnect with family and friends and plan reunions.  Trace family trees by visiting the national archives department and attending genealogy marketplaces.  Give back to Barbados by sharing knowledge and expertise in areas of interest.  Invest in the Barbados Hospitals project by making a financial donation or giving time and expertise to a community-based project.  Plant two trees as part of the national tree-planting campaign.  Share ideas, suggestions and insights that will contribute to the development of Barbados – this may be done online or by participating in the national dialogues being championed by the Prime Minister.

WHAT WILL BE HAPPENING? There will be a series of cultural, faith-based, food, entertainment and sporting events throughout

the year. Events will include major festivals as well as kite-flying competitions, genealogy fairs, National Service Day, national clean-up campaigns, ideas and investment fora, standpipe stories and heritage tours. Each parish will showcase its unique characteristics, including its produce, cuisine, attractions and homegrown heroes. Community projects will be taking place in each parish, as well as major marquee events.

JOIN THE DEBATE The Prime Minister will have a series of conversations with Barbadians, especially young people, through the ideas fora to be held in secondary schools and throughout communities.

These conversations will take place in each parish around a number of key issues that are relevant to the island’s social and economic development, and to the fostering of a new national consciousness. The Prime Minister is keen to hear the views of young people on issues of national and global importance and their perceptions of Barbados today and their recommendations for a Barbados of the future. Everyone is encouraged to come and join the dialogue to assist Barbados in crafting a perfect vision for 2020 and beyond.

 FOR INFORMATION, VISIT WWW.WEGATHERINBARBADOS.COM

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 37

DESTINATION: DOMINICA

20 reasons why

DOMINICA is one of the hottest spots for 2020 Local expert Paul Crask explains why you should visit the Nature Island this year

38 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

No wonder Dominica is known as the ‘Nature Island’ – its lush, rugged interior is a botanical and wildlife wonderland, begging to be explored DISCOVER DOMINICA AUTHORITY

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 39

DESTINATION: DOMINICA

01

IT ’S A NATUR AL WE L L N ESS D EST IN ATI O N Wellness is one of the hottest travel trends. Millions of people around the globe are opting to take healthy holidays – and Dominica has offered that sort of experience since long before it became an international trend. Fresh air, rivers clean enough to drink from, wholesome food, natural wonders, mineral spas, yoga, massage treatments, forest bathing, outdoor exercise… all combine to make this one of the world’s healthiest destinations.

Dominica is known as an island apart: it is breathtakingly mountainous and verdant; its lush tropical forests hide countless rivers and waterfalls; it has three national parks (one of which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site) plus forest and marine reserves. In short, it is where nature lives, a paradise for lovers of the outdoors who want to breathe fresh air, feel well and have their senses stimulated. And it’s now taking extra care of its precious environment.

On the front line of climate change, Dominica has seized the initiative following two extreme weather events.

Everything is undertaken with climate resilience in mind, and single-use plastics are banned.

03

ITS HIKING TRAILS ARE THE REGION’S BEST

No other island in the Caribbean comes close to the diversity of Dominica’s vast hiking network. The Boiling Lake Trail passes through rainforest, up and down a mountain, over rivers and across an active volcanic caldera, ending at a boiling-hot flooded crater. Half-day hikes take walkers to waterfalls and heritage sites. And the 200km-long, 14-segment Waitukubuli National Trail winds its way across and up the entire island, incorporating forests, rivers, waterfalls, villages and volcanic peaks. Attempt it in one go, camping along the way, or pick a few individual sections to get a taste of the journey.

New for 2020, check out the official Hiker’s Log Book and Passport to record your hikes and even claim prizes for your achievements.

40 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

04

IT’S THRILLING UNDERWATER

Where Dominica’s mountains meet the sea, they just keep on going down. Reef formations, dramatic walls that drop into the abyss and submerged volcanic pinnacles remind scuba divers of the origins of the island. Jaw-dropping coral reefs and sea mounts are encrusted with diverse hard and soft corals, barrel and tube sponges, crinoids and sea anemones that are home to colourful fish, seahorses, frogfish, octopus and lobsters. Visitors to these reefs include hawksbill turtles, large schools of Creole wrasse, barracuda and eagle rays. There are dive operators all along the west coast offering daily boat and shore diving, try-dives and tuition.

05

ITS WHALEWATCHING SEASON YEAR ROUND

Sperm whales permanently reside in Dominica’s deep coastal waters, which makes the chances of spotting them on a whalewatching trip very high. Huge pods of dolphins are also common sights off Dominica. In addition to sperm whales, migratory species include pilot whales, humpback whales and false killer whales.

06

IT HAS A VIBRANT LIVING FRENCH CREOLE CULTURE During colonial times, the cultural influence of the French islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique merged with the traditions, folklore and language of enslaved Africans to create a new cultural identity that is commonly referred to as French Creole or just Creole. This culture

manifests itself in traditional food, dance, art, music, dress and language.

Creole Week, in October, is a great time to experience all forms of French Creole culture.

07

IT HAS UNIQUE BIRDS

Dominica is home to two species of Amazonian parrot that can be found nowhere else in the world: the imperial parrot (better known as the sisserou) and the red-necked parrot, or jaco.

Though elusive, both can be spotted in Dominica’s forested interior, especially in the foothills of Morne Diablotin, at 1,447m the island’s tallest peak. Four hummingbird species – purple-throated Carib, green-throated Carib, Antillean crested and endemic blue-headed – are also resident here, along with tremblers, thrashers, kingfishers, bananaquit, magnificent frigatebirds, and many, many more. A birdwatching trip along the Syndicate Trail in the company of a local expert such as Bertrand Jno Baptiste (better known as Birdy) is a must.

08

IT IS AN ISLAND OF VITALITY

There is a small but culturally significant population of Rastafarians in Dominica, who practise a way of life that is guided by the Old Testament of the Bible and by the purity of nature.

Bush teas, herbal medicines, Ital food, and crops grown free of synthetic additives are vital ingredients of the Rasta lifestyle. Travellers can learn about and experience this way of living first-hand in the company of Moses James and his family in Zion Valley near the village of Delices in the south-east of Dominica.

a c

b d

e

f g

a. Dive among colourful coral and dramatic rock pinnacles b. Spot four species of hummingbird c. Discover the music, clothes and dance of French Creole culture d. Hike a diverse range of tracks – this is the Freshwater Lake trail e. The jaco is one of two beautiful endemic species of parrot on Dominica f. Watch for several species of whale in Dominica’s waters g. Admire the lush vegetation and flora

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

PAUL CRASK; DISCOVER DOMINICA AUTHORITY

02

IT’S EVEN MORE COMMITTED TO NATURE

DESTINATION: DOMINICA

09

ITS ACCO MMO DAT I O N SC E N E IS D I VE R S E From rustic wooden forest cabins to full-service luxury eco-retreats, Dominica has a wide range of accommodation options, spread all around the island. There are places to suit all budgets – you can spend anything between US$50 and $1,500 a night here. Longestablished and much-loved hotels and guesthouses are now increasingly being joined by new lodges, retreats and boutique hotels such as Jungle Bay, Secret Bay and the Kempinski Cabrits Resort – all new or revamped in 2019.

More and more people are seeking adventurous holidays – and Dominica is ready and waiting. Its terrain lends itself perfectly to activities such as canyoning with a certified operator such as Extreme Dominica. Once geared-up and trained, you rappel down a series of waterfalls in a deep river gorge in the company of two expert guides. The journey is an adventure, and the river canyon is beautiful. For beginners, the journey ends in the gorgeous Cathedral Canyon; more advanced canyoneers continue downriver and rappel to the bottom of the Trafalgar Falls.

11

ITS HERITAGE REMAINS BEGUILING

Dominica’s history and associated heritage can be traced back through time with the help of colonial-era sites such as the 18th-century plantation house of Bois Cotlette or the partially restored fortifications of Fort Shirley Garrison in Cabrits National Park. The woodland trails around Cabrits reveal forest-covered garrison ruins and silent cannons, and the restored buildings of Fort Shirley offer a fascinating glimpse into the island’s colonial past as well as fabulous views across Prince Rupert Bay to the mountains of the interior. Many of the island’s sugar factories are now abandoned to nature, but travellers can still see good examples of factory ruins, complete with waterwheels, at places such as Hampstead, Geneva, Belfast, the Old 42 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

Mill Cultural Centre and Bagatelle.

Despite the impact of hurricanes, the Botanic Gardens at Roseau, established in the 1890s, is a national treasure. It is a beautiful open space that was once a living museum of domestic and exotic plants and trees, ponds, walkways and ornate buildings.

12

ITS ART SCENE IS THRIVING

Dominica has a very healthy art scene, with established painters such as Earl Etienne and Ellingworth Moses now being joined by a new generation collaborating as the Waitukubuli Artist Association (WAA). Exhibitions are held regularly at the Old Mill Cultural Centre and other venues around the island, and WAA has also been instrumental in the introduction of colourful, imaginative and themed street art. Less in the limelight, yet equally impressive, are the artistic works of expat artists who have made their home in and are inspired by Dominica. DOMFESTA in May offers the chance to check out Dominica’s art and film festivals. For a truly original perspective on Hurricane Maria, seek out the independent film Uncivilized,

by Michael Lees.

13

IT HAS ONE OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC SMALLISLAND CARNIVALS Often referred to as the Real Mas, Dominica’s Carnival parades are vibrant, offbeat and fun. Although small parades take place in some of the villages around the island, the main event is in the capital, Roseau,

HOW

beginning in the early MANY hours of Monday COUNTRIES DO YOU KNOW morning with the THAT CAN BOAST bacchanal of J’Ouvert, RAINFOREST AND the traditional opening TWIN WATERFALLS WITHIN A 15-MINUTE of Carnival. The DRIVE OF THE celebrations continue CAPITAL? throughout the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, with traditional costume displays, contemporary and artistic costume parades, and the heaving tee-shirt bands and live music floats.

On Wednesday, in the Kalinago village of Bataca, the spirit of Carnival is laid to rest during Tewe Vaval, a heartstopping festival of fire. Catch it on 24-25 February 2020.

14

IT HAS COUNTLESS RIVERS AND WATERFALLS

Here’s a new year’s resolution for you: try to count the rivers on Dominica!

No one really knows how many there are; locals like to say 365 – one for every day of the year. Whatever the actual number, it is likely to be high. And since the island is so mountainous, many of these rivers, on their journey to the sea, have spectacular waterfalls and cascades, many of which can be accessed via hiking trails or even short paths. How many countries do you know that can boast rainforest and twin waterfalls within a 15-minute drive of the capital?

Notable waterfalls to visit (and splash under) include Trafalgar, Victoria, Middleham, Sari Sari and the Emerald Pool. There are even waterfalls that tumble from coastal cliffs into the sea.

e

a

b

c

d f

a. Join Moses James to learn about Rasta culture b. Canyoning is a thrilling way to explore Dominica’s beautiful gorges c. Kempinski Cabrits Resort & Spa is one of several new places to stay d. Join Dominica’s authentic Carnival e. Admire the thriving arts scene e. Discover the island’s heritage at historic sites such as Fort Shirley Garrison

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

PAUL CRASK; DISCOVER DOMINICA AUTHORITY; AARON HAMILTON ART/WAA

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IT’S A NATURAL CHOICE FOR ADVENTURE TOURISM

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DESTINATION: DOMINICA

15

I T H A S LOA DS OF VO LC AN OE S For such a small island, Dominica has an astonishingly dense cluster of volcanoes. With one exception, all are dormant: the Valley of Desolation is very much an active caldera of bubbling mud, warm water rivers, hot, colourful rocks and countless powerful fumaroles.

most noteworthy and accessible are the creatively constructed and landscaped hot spas in and around the village of Wotten Waven in the Roseau Valley. Ti Kwen Glo Cho and Tia’s are well-established favourites. The mountain village of Giraudel is known for its flower-growers and their annual Flower Show, usually in May. Papillote Gardens in Trafalgar is the most celebrated private garden, a popular destination for horticulturalists for many years. As well as an abundance of tropical plants and flowers, Papillote boasts hot volcanic pools and waterfalls.

Around 5,000 years ago, Amerindian people from South and Central America travelled by canoe to the Greater and Lesser Antilles. Several migrations of people and cultures took place over the years before the Europeans arrived in the region, mistakenly believing they had arrived in the East Indies. When Europeans landed on the shores of Dominica, they were met by indigenous people calling themselves Kalinago. Today, their descendants live in a regionally unique, semi-autonomous area of the IT’S A GOT A island known as the Kalinago Territory.

MARVELLOUSLY MIXED In recent times there has been a MUSIC VIBE movement among Kalinago people to International recording artists such as reclaim and rediscover their ancestry Michele Henderson are accomplished and cultural identity. Travellers to exponents of a French Creole genre, Dominica can get a taste of Kalinago and even the ubiquitous culture by visiting the villages bouyon music that was of the Territory, as well as IN RECENT TIMES THERE born in Dominica has its heritage sites such as HAS BEEN A roots partly in Creole. the Kalinago Barana MOVEMENT AMONG Bouyon bands such as Aute, a ‘model’ village KALINAGO PEOPLE TO RECLAIM AND WCK and Triple Kay showcasing traditional REDISCOVER International are as thatched buildings, THEIR ANCESTRY popular in the Frenchbasket weaving and AND CULTURAL speaking islands as they canoe construction. At IDENTITY are at home. In May each Touna Aute, former Kalinago year, the Jazz & Creole Festival chief Irvince Auguiste combines is held at the Fort Shirley Garrison tradition with contemporary life, in Cabrits National Park. And on the demonstrating how the Kalinago live in last weekend in October, the finale to the modern world using the skills and Creole Week, the World Creole Music knowledge of the past.

Festival takes place at Windsor Park IT HAS NATURAL SPAS Stadium in the capital, Roseau. Other AND TROPICAL GARDENS popular music genres are reggae, soca, Hot volcanic springs can be found zouk and dancehall, and concerts are in various places in Dominica, many held at intimate venues island-wide of them deep in the wilderness. The throughout the year.

18

17

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IT STIMULATES ARTISANS AND ENTREPRENEURS

Buying local and seasonal are in fashion right now – and in Dominica you are spoiled for choice in both areas. For example, local artisans are creating a range of excellent, additivefree, all-natural products such as soaps, body scrubs, essential oils, skin cleansers, honey, bush and cocoa teas, coconut oil and organic chocolate.

Pointe Baptiste Chocolate, produced just a short walk from the mystical Red Rocks coastline near Calibishie, is among Dominica’s finest, and you can even visit the factory to see it being made.

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IT HAS MOUTHWATERING CREOLE CUISINE

The Creole cuisine of Dominica combines French and African influences, traditionally incorporating meats, fish and crustaceans. It is usually heavily seasoned and served with root crops such as yam, dasheen and tania – collectively known as provisions – as well as vegetables, breadfruit, green banana, plantain, rice and peas. Traditional dishes include callaloo soup (made from young dasheen leaves), crabback (made from land crabs), sancoche (usually a codfish and coconut milk dish) and one pot braf, a broth of ground provisions, smoked meats and green banana. This style of fillyou-up cooking still prevails to this day, with lunch usually being served as the main meal of the day, enjoyed at restaurants and small eateries islandwide. Come with an appetite and prepare to feast! ●

a

b

c

d

e

f

a. Roam the island among its lush and verdant nature b. Learn about traditional crafts at Kalinago Barana Aute village c. Catch great performances at the annual Jazz & Creole Festival d. Discover natural spas and wonderful tropical gardens e. See chocolate being made at Pointe Baptiste f. Cool off under Victoria Falls

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

PAUL CRASK; DISCOVER DOMINICA AUTHORITY

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ITS RESURGENT INDIGENOUS CULTURE IS REGIONALLY UNIQUE

HOT HOTELS This page: The thatched palapa retreats at Anegada Beach Club, BVI, exude castaway romance – but also feature luxurious four-poster beds and twin deck baths

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www.liat.com | January - February 2020

5 GREAT GLAMPSITES Looking to get closer to nature without sacrificing creature comforts? Joe Shooman seeks out spots for really cool camping

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

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HOT HOTELS

1

ANEGADA BEACH CLUB, BVI

BEST FOR... CASTAWAY COOL WHERE: KEEL POINT, ANEGADA ROOM RATES: HOTEL FROM US$235 INFO: +1 284 346 4005; WWW.ANEGADABEACHCLUB.COM USP: PALM-ROOFED RETREATS ON AN OUT-OF-THE-WAY ISLE

more standard suites with TV, WiFi and air-con – just not quite that deserted-island romance.

What’s the location? On the north-west coast of little Anegada island, a coral atoll home to only 200 people. It’s also

an iguana preserve and has one of the largest barrier reefs in the Caribbean. Ferries sail to Anegada from Tortola.

What’s the vibe? Rustic beachshack luxe; suits couples and families (kids over six only).

The lowdown: Beachfront, Ocean View and Surfside palapas; access to the beach club, with volleyball and games, pool and restaurant serving fresh seafood; activities include snorkelling, kayaking, bike hire and kitesurfing.

Anegada Beach Club’s palapa retreats overlook warm turquoise waters

Extremely isolated and extraordinarily beautiful, this spot in the BVI will fulfil many a castaway fantasy – without sacrificing comfort or style.

Anegada Beach Club’s classy thatched-roof palapa retreats have it all: king-size canopy beds (and extra daybeds for stowaways), smart en suites and raised decks where you can swing in hammocks, gazing out at the sea. There’s also a hotel offering Laze in private hammocks and gaze out over the Caribbean

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Wild Lotus Camp is right on the beach

2

WILD LOTUS CAMP, ANTIGUA

BEST FOR... BEACH LIVING WHERE: VALLEY CHURCH BEACH, BOLANDS ROOM RATES: FROM US$223 INFO: +1 268 788 5898; WWW.WILDLOTUSCAMP.COM USP: WAKE UP RIGHT ON THE SAND

You can’t sleep closer to the Caribbean than in one of these beautiful bulb tents – each one is on the white sand beach, amid exotic flowers and banana trees.

Inside you’ll find luxurious double beds, handsome hardwood furniture, fresh linens, solarpowered USB ports and a feeling of true peace as you’re lulled to sleep by the sea. The tents are totally off-grid, with tiki torches and solar-powered fairy lights illuminating the way. The stargazing is out of this world.

What’s the location? Valley Church Beach; there’s a gated entrance, which is locked at Make like James Bond at the sunset will have keys). casino(you tables at Sonesta Maho What’s the vibe? Adults only. In January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

short, it’s utterly magical.

The lowdown: One Deluxe tent and a handful of Luxury tents; safes; padlocks for zip doors and windows; private solarheated showers; shared toilet block; copper fire pits; breakfast of locally sourced ingredients available; nearby Nest Beach Bar has music and WiFi.

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VIRGIN ISLANDS CAMPGROUND, USVI BEST FOR... STRIPPED-BACK STYLE WHERE: WATER ISLAND, ST THOMAS ROOM RATES: FROM US$149 INFO: +1 340 776 5488; WWW.VIRGIN ISLANDSCAMPGROUND.COM USP: PRIVATE ECO-COTTAGES, CLOSE TO NATURE

style and graceful simplicity, they’re designed to have a low environmental impact, drawing electricity from wind power. But they offer a little bit of luxury, too, with queen or twin beds, handy coolers, private porches and sublime views.

What’s the location? Lush-green site, five minutes’ walk from Honeymoon Beach; seven-minute ferry ride from St Thomas.

What’s the vibe? Great for couples and families – cottages sleep four adults or two adults and two children.

The lowdown: Large site; minimalist cabins plus one private suite attached to the owners’ home; shared pavilion for cooking, storage and socialising; communications room for taking care of business, watching TV and checking the internet; hot tub.

The eco-cottages on Virgin Islands Campground are nestled in lush forest on Water Island

Hidden amid 500 acres of verdant foliage on the smallest of the main US Virgin Isles, these nine sensitively designed woodand-linen ‘cottages’ are perfect for connecting with Mother Nature but detaching from the world. Combining Caribbean ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 49

HOT HOTELS

5

PITAHAYA, PUERTO RICO

BEST FOR... OUTDOOR ESCAPES WHERE: CABO ROJO ROOM RATES: FROM US$125 INFO: +1 787 366 5516; WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/ PITAYAHAGLAMPING USP: SIMPLE SITE WITH SUPER ACCESS TO BIRDWATCHING, BEACHES AND MORE

The five simple, soothing, spacious tent-sites at Pitahaya sit within the dry forest of Cabo Rojo. Made from pale canvas and neat timber, each sleeps up to six on comfy mattresses. There’s electricity, fans and lamps plus well-equipped kitchens and private showers.

But best are the mountain views

and access to the surrounding countryside, with great potential for exploring. This area is amazing for kayak tours – try paddling through the bioluminescent waters of Parguera. Guánica is only a short drive away, as are towering limestone cliffs, gorgeous beaches and wildlifefilled nature reserves.

What’s the location? Out of the way, but with easy links to Cabo Rojo.

What’s the vibe? Adventurous, outdoorsy, family friendly.

No pets allowed.

The lowdown: Five large tents; private kitchens; gas barbecue area; private bathrooms with toilet and shower; private parking; swimming pool. ●

Kawaida Peyi’s Afro-Caribbean tent

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KAWAIDA PEYI, MARTINIQUE

BEST FOR... SECLUDED SLEEPS WHERE: SAINTE-LUCE ROOM RATES: FROM US$177 INFO: +1 696 030 585; WWW. FACEBOOK.COM/PG/KAWAIDAPEYI USP: ONE TENT, ONE TERRACE, ONE TOTALLY UNIQUE EXPERIENCE

You can’t help but feel special at this one-of-a-kind Martinique bolthole. Kawaida Peyi has just one spacious canvas tent, set on a private raised sun deck surrounded by forest, complete with a generous double bed, outdoor kitchen and its own jacuzzi tub.

The name means ‘unusual’ in Swahili, and Afro-Caribbean style permeates throughout. Breakfast

is included; lunches and dinners can be provided on request, to enjoy with magnificent mountain views. Kawaida Peyi looks a million dollars – no surprise that it’s been a backdrop for fashion shoots.

What’s the location? A residential area in a seaside town, overlooking verdant scenery.

Pretty Anse Mabouya beach is a 15-minute walk away.

What’s the vibe? Honeymooners, lovers, secret adventurers.

Ideal for African-infused alfresco romance.

The lowdown: A smart tent for two; fully enclosed outdoor area with swing chairs; private shower, toilet and jacuzzi; basic kitchen with fridge and microwave; private parking available.

Above & this image: The simple, spacious tents at Pitahaya offer great opportunities for exploring the surrounding dry forest

Afro-Caribbean style Kawaida Peyi looks a million dollars – it’s no surprise that it’s been used as a backdrop for fashion shoots 50 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

FETE FUN

LE CARNAVAL! Add extra joie de vivre to your fete this season by playing mas in Martinique, Guadeloupe and Saint Martin. Sarah Wood gives the lowdown on Carnival, French Caribbean style

N

othing can prepare a firsttimer for Carnival in the French Caribbean.

After I arrived in Guadeloupe, my taxi driver Laurent urged me to sleep for 72 hours beforehand. François recommended stamina-boosting vitamins as he handed me a crêpe in the L’îlet Douceur café. Further advice was doled out from every quarter: I was offered dancing tips, warned against a raging thirst and other heat-related ailments, told to prepare for melon-sized blisters, scolded for my costume choice (far too modest) and told a zillion times that “at Carnival time, anything goes”. A Carnival veteran friend expressed real concern that I’d not upped my cardio work beforehand: “You’ll be gasping for air, weak legged, fried to a crisp and hallucinating,” she told me. “It is super-intense. Like running a marathon in spike heels in summer, only with neat rum to rehydrate.”

All of these things came to pass. For the entire week I spent in Guadeloupe at Carnival time, I barely slept, instead summoning Herculean levels of energy to dance the streets from morning to night. Back and forth I swayed to the syncopated pounding of snare drums. I was twirled by strangers wearing little more than a feather or two. I was showered in a rainbow of

Carnival 2020 dates

ALL OF THE FRENCH CARNIVALS PEAK AROUND 23-26 FEBRUARY; PARADES AND PAGEANTS BEGIN IN JANUARY AND RUN INTO MARCH

confetti as the music morphed from acoustic to soca. A troupe of oiled-up dudes in lurex span me around in a blur. I got tangled in a near-naked conga and I gasped for breath as the air filled with glitter dust and sparkles.

My toes wept, my calf muscles burned, the zillion-watt pulse of a boomboom-boom bassline supercharged my chest, and my tendons tightened to snapping point in my vertigo-inducing heels. I’d never wiggled or jiggled so much in my life: every inch of my body was in constant movement, from my ankles to the tip of my head. But the undulating bodies all around me showed no sign of flagging.

At one point I stopped to survey the spectacle: it was a glorious collision of unashamed sexiness and family entertainment. Several bystanders were weeping tears of joy. I, too, felt a bubble of emotion, so with arms outstretched I sounded my whistle, clicked my heels and pirouetted with a smile as broad as an over-stretched hammock. Physically, I was high on the collective exuberance of Guadeloupe’s crowds: the joyful chants, the vibrant costumes and the hip-shimmying exhilaration. Spiritually, I felt empowered, as if fuelled by Guadeloupe’s phenomenal life-force.

That’s why, while shaking my booty in a froth of neon-pink feathers, I promised myself I’d do it all again…

“You’ll be gasping for air, weak legged, fried to a crisp, hallucinating. Carnival here is super-

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This image: Prepare for a different kind of Carnival in the French Caribbean – this masked reveller is celebrating in Martinique

intense – like running a marathon in spike heels in summer, with neat rum to rehydrate” BERNARD ALEXANDER

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

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FETE FUN

Not sure which Frenchflavoured place to pick?

Here’s your guide to partying on three different islands

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www.liat.com | January - February 2020

Left: Beauty and the beast – revellers in Martinique don masks that are both macabre and marvellous

MARTINIQUE USP: CARNIVAL TAKEN TO THE NEXT LEVEL! It is barely January when the Carnival buzz starts in Martinique, building in momentum over the course of several wild weeks, with the island’s west coast capital, Fort-de-France, the centre of the celebrations. The explosion of excitement requires some stamina to maintain. Once partying claims priority, it seems impossible to imagine a time when the streets weren’t filled with dancers and marching bands (groupes à pied). A blasting horn urges everyone out by the bayside en masse‚ dressed in neon wigs, feather boas, fishnet capes, bright ballerina tutus and jewelencrusted G-strings, transforming the street into a kaleidoscopic river of madcap movement.

Each year’s incarnation of Vaval‚ the enormous effigy that is Martinique’s t a closely guarded ning event (usually Epiphany). This t formed of papier-mâché might take any form – everything is fair game for omic effect, from ald Trump to ministers or local n recent years Vaval xaggerated Viking t of the Gauls. s, he is booed like ly garish are the painted cars as bradjacks) d especially for . Typically, French nd Citroëns clog

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

the highways, but now these crazycoloured Caribbean jalopies fill the streets, revving loudly.

At Carnival time, the Martinican French side is amplified. Placards proffer a dismissive Gallic shrug to the European Union, Coco Chanel and the merest mention of frogs legs, yet the populace remain, in many respects, more French than the French.

For instance, champagne consumption is higher here than in any mainland department. Naughty lyrics ridicule the French hierarchy, so expect lots of scandalous songs about big noses and snobbery. Costumes poke fun, too, mimicking bouffant-haired Parisian ladies right down to their poodles.

Every citizen, every age, in every community celebrates in their own way: from those who gently sway and shuffle, to flame-throwing calypso dancers on stilts. Towers of monster speakers blast throbbing basslines into Fort-de-France’s backstreets. Musicality and rhythm is endemic here – nobody misses a single beat.

On the final day, Martinicans flit and flutter like moths to a lantern as the music ramps up and the dancing gains even more fervour. Rhythms overlap in a heady mishmash of zouk, biguine, samba and reggae and, while singing in French under tricolour flags, crowds unify in a surge of national identity.

“THERE’S A MAGIC ABOUT CARNIVAL IN MARTINIQUE THAT IS TOTALLY BEWITCHING, YOU FEEL IT FROM THE MOMENT THE FIRST CHORD PLAYS. THE MAGIC NEVER ENDS, EVEN AFTER VAVAL IS CREMATED – IT STAYS WITH YOU ALL YEAR UNTIL THE PARTY STARTS AGAIN.” PASSI GERAULT, MARTINICAN GUIDE

Carnival is a most magnificent ode to the joy of living. Every evening, candlelit prayers are recited in thanks. During these moments of quiet reflection, you can still feel the drum beat in your bones as choreographed limbs continue dancing non-stop in an effervescent multi-mile loop.

Before long, time is up for Vaval.

Once funeral rites are given, a very public cremation is held on Ash Wednesday, as penance for the Carnival’s wild behaviours. Faux tears of mourning accompany the Martinican sunset as the giant Vaval effigy turns to dust – and Carnival draws to a close. Street cleaners gather up rum bottles and feathers, and persuade lingering revellers to head home to bed. No need to feel too bad for Vaval, though: he’ll emerge in another guise next year.

TIP Join the first parade at daybreak – pyjamas are de rigueur. Pack something

black or white for Vaval’s funeral on Ash Wednesday.

IT’S UNIQUE Instead of steel drums, Martinicans play a kind of deconstructed drum set, with chachas (sand-filled bamboo shakers) to make a ‘shooooka shooooka shooooka’ sound.

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FETE FUN

GUADELOUPE USP: SUPER HIGH-OCTANE FULL-ON FUN Guadeloupe’s Carnival fever is infectious, interrupting the daily grind to preoccupy an entire island for two long weeks. Jobs are left half finished and factory lines are static so that the mundane can’t interfere with the partying. There is much excited anticipation in the months, weeks and days that lead up to the main event.

During this time, processions take place every Sunday island-wide, as each village elects a Queen and Junior Queen. Then it’s time for the island to erupt with increasing intensity. Teams of rabble-rousers encourage people to let their hair down and armies of ‘Party Police’ threaten anyone resting with handcuffs and a night in the cells.

Dimanche Gras (Fat Sunday) heralds the official start of festivities.

Guadeloupe’s parade-goers start congregating hours ahead of the first procession, called by the conch to gather by elaborately decorated floats, food vans and growing crowds

of dancers. The open-bed pick-up trucks start testing their speakers before 2am and, long before it’s light, the crowds make way for guys draped in cow-hides, cracking whips against the pavement and beating tin cans loud enough to raise the dead.

Pummelling goatskin drums and plastic barrels is a ritual that will drive away evil spirits.

Guadeloupe’s Carnival features a comical interpretation of the ‘burlesque wedding’: a Monday parade that depicts role-reversal marriages.

Men wear wigs, heels, gowns and make-up to dress as brides, while women don tuxedos. Each year this procession has become increasingly daring and politically motivated. It has also slammed domestic violence and poked fun at the one-sided union of France and its islands.

Tuesday is the Red Devil’s Parade, which is a byword for mischief and naughtiness as

scarlet-clad revellers rampage through the crowds. Tales vary across the French Caribbean, but Guadeloupe’s devil and similarly frightening characters serve as a jokey warning not to upset Catholic Church elders.

African ancestors and French colonial forefathers are targets for honour or mockery, too. The dancers smeared in red clay, the nègs gwosirop (revellers covered in sugar and charcoal) and the mariann lapo fig clad in banana leaves – all represent stories of slave oppression, rebellion and emancipation. Then there are the Moko-zombi, a tambourine-slamming troupe of bare-chested ghosts on stilts who pass around a jug of super-strength rum.

TIP

Prepare for some serious partying – you’ll have a more enjoyable time if you put in the training beforehand.

IT’S UNIQUE

Burlesque marriage on such a scale – each year, the procession has become more risqué, to highlight issues of gender and LGBT rights.

“FOR ME, THE MIX OF MODERN AND RISQUÉ AND TRADITIONAL AFRICAN-FRENCH IS JUST RIGHT. IT UNDERPINS THE REVELRY AND GIVES THE NON-STOP PARTY-PARTY-PARTY VIBE CONTEXT.” HUGO MARTIN FRENCH TOURIST

Right: Ruffling feathers: a dancer in glittering costume shakes her stuff in Pointe-àPitre, Guadeloupe AWL IMAGES

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January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

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FETE FUN

SAINT MARTIN USP: A FRIENDLY, LESS-FRANTIC PARTY, WITH FAMILIES AT ITS HEART

TIPS FOR CARNIVAL

insanely loud.

TIP Suss out where the cooling stations are for access to iced water and snow cones.

IT’S UNIQUE Crabs are collected for weeks beforehand in order to make Carnival

delicacy matoutou de crabe; the crabs are even fed spices and seasoned vegetables so that the dish is extra tasty!

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Follow the lead of the locals – Carnival is a time to let loose without judgement.

Finally: enjoy! www.liat.com | January - February 2020

ALAMY

Locals plan all year for the Saint Martin Carnival, painting masks, mending costumes, stitching sequins and ensuring each event retains its own pizzazz. Parades start in January before the Mardi Gras, and run for weeks, including pageants for the crowning of Miss Pitchounette (Little Miss Carnival).

Children as young as two take part in parties, parades and promenades, learning early that it is a true test of stamina – especially the Jouve Jump Up, which starts at 4am.

In Carnival circles, Saint Martin’s intimate celebrations are much-loved for their family focus: there is less liquor-drenched “CARNIVAL boisterousness here.

DOESN’T DISCRIMINATE – IF YOU Instead, celebrations LOVE MUSIC, GOOD VIBES pay homage to the AND OUR CULTURE, THEN Above: Miss Pitchounette celebrates her success at Saint Martin’s family-friendly Carnival island’s rich history, THE CARNIVAL WELCOMES drawing close-knit YOU. COME PARTY IN Marigot cook communities to SAINT MARTIN TO FEEL without the Marigot’s beautiful THE WARMTH OF OUR gastronomic bay-front.

COMMUNITY.” MIMI DJOUGINE pretentiousness of With thinner RESIDENT Go with the flow of the crowd – the motherland, with crowds and fewer parades will take as long as they take, matoutou de crabe (herby all-night hedonist bangers, so don’t try to rush seasoned crab) a particular most parades start at a godly hour Carnival favourite – c’est délicieux! (lunchtime is préféré). Even the music Dress up! Better make it sparkly, glitzy truck and speaker towers enjoy some Water stations and puppet shows and outlandish daily down time. There is also plenty keep young children comfortable.

Prepare for a long day – hydrate, of time to eat – really eat, not just Parties have a friendly vibe, with eat, and pack emergency flat shoes and soak up the rum – thanks to Saint dancing that strikes a subtle tone – sticking plasters for blisters Martin’s well-stocked French larder. sure, it’s high-energy sexy, but not For sustenance when exhaustion sets downright dirty, with only a few Pace your drinking – the rum starts in, order a plate of salt cod fritters songs that will make the clergy blush. flowing at daybreak and grilled lobster washed down Costumes are elaborate, crafted to Forget personal space – Carnival is with a carafe of rum punch – so perfection with shimmering tulles, up-close and very personal! exquisite that it sends gastronomes feathers and sequins. Only the from Toulouse into a spin. You’ll find engulfing flames of King Moumou Nap like a newborn – grabbing bottles of sancerre, beaujolais and are brighter, heralding the end of 30 minutes here and there is better muscadet wines throughout Marigot, Carnival to the sound of screeching than no sleep at all plus enough French cheeses to satisfy fireworks and a few final pounding Pack earplugs – the parade music is pre-Lenten gluttony. Street chefs in soca rhythms. ●

FASHION SPECIAL

NEW YEAR , NEW STYLE

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www.liat.com | January - February 2020

Celebrate the next decade by embracing the talents of eight upand-coming Caribbean designers. Jeneille Lewis introduces a roster of exciting young creatives on the scene who’ll help you look hot for 2020 This image: Discover the colourful tropical vibes of Island Fella from Trinidad & Tobago BERNARD ALEXANDER

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 61

FASHION SPECIAL

LA VERNI BARBADOSI DESIGNER:I MELANIE THORPEI Style in three words: Seductive, detailed, wild About La Vern: My focus is on women: how they feel in my pieces and how my pieces feel on them. I focus a lot on custom sizing.

Unique selling point: A deeply sensual yet tasteful aesthetic.

I want my babes to feel sexy and know that they can take on anything. All women are welcomed here; because of that, there’s this beautiful community of women. It isn’t just a brand, it’s a babe movement – a brand made by women for women.

What are you doing differently? Choosing the most sensual aspect of fashion

in a conservative society.

I love showcasing women in powerful pieces. Every visual, every film, every concept, is a chance for me to move women somehow.

Plans for 2020: My SS19 collection represented how my design process has been going: unpredictable! There’s no rule book I follow when it comes to design, but I’m inspired by the detail in haute couture and the limitless possibilities of asymmetry. One is glamorous, the other rigid; used mindfully, together they create beauty.

What will be hot this year?

Lots of solid colours and artistic prints. I don’t think animal print has run its course yet.

Info: www.lavernbymr.com; Instagram @lavernbymr; info@lavernbymr.com

FASHION SPECIAL

KIMMYSTIC.CLOI ST VINCENT &I THE GRENADINESI DESIGNER:I KIMON BAPTISTEI Style in three words: Functional, timeless, versatile About Kimmystic.Clo: We produce ready-to-wear clothing and custom-made bridal, prom and evening gowns for women aged 25 to 45; our woman is a graduate, an employee, a mother, a wife.

She doesn’t get out often, but when she does she cleans up nicely. She is comfortable in her own skin and wants to be comfortable in her clothing.

Unique selling point: The quality of our product.

We use natural fibres such as linens and cottons, and the finest brocades, beads and sequinned lace.

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What are you doing differently? We are 100% committed to doing what is right for our customers.

Marketing is more than advertising; it’s understanding consumer buying trends, being able to anticipate distribution needs and developing business partnerships that improve our market share. We work hard to stay ahead of the competition.

Plans for 2020: There will be a new collection, more than likely including frills and ruffles – they have become my signature as I find interesting ways to incorporate them.

What will be hot this year?

The long white dress will always be on trend; magenta and burnt yellow will also be hot.

Info: Instagram @kimmysticclo; kimon.baptiste@gmail.com

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FASHION SPECIAL

POSHELLEI ST VINCENT &I THE GRENADINESI DESIGNER:I LISA CORDICEI Style in three words: Feminine, glamorous, island-chic About Poshelle: Contemporary and unique fashion for women of all shapes and sizes, with ready-to-wear, haute couture and bespoke options.

Unique selling point: Inclusivity and representation.

Poshelle’s mission is to create glamorous women’s fashion, while not sacrificing fit for style.

What are you doing differently? We don’t outsource any part of the fashion process. I come up with the creative concepts.

I sometimes create the actual fabric, if the design depends on it. Lately, I’ve been getting into a lot of hand-painting, tie dyes and batik, and I’m working to create fabric from fusions of 66 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

non-traditional textiles. I create my own samples, and I sew and refine them. We’ve also been commended for using non-traditional models in our campaigns; we use some of our own clients. Everyone should be able to see themselves wearing Poshelle.

Plans for 2020: It’s all about mindfulness, finding balance and maintaining harmony.

My plan is to integrate my art with textiles to create unique, eye-catching prints inspired by nature, in cool, relaxing colours, to capture the essence of the ‘zen’ experience.

What will be hot this year?

I can see monochromatic colours dominating. Also Asian influences, statement accessories and ‘snatched’ and belted waistlines.

Info: www.facebook.com/ irockposhelle; Instagram @irockposhelle; irockposhelle@gmail.com

POSHELLE: CALVERT JONES

POSHELLE: CALVERT JONES

ISLAND FELLAI TRINIDAD & TOBAGOI DESIGNER:I KERN RYANIMOLLINEAUI Style in three words: Functional, comfortable, cool About Island Fella: We design simple, loose-fitting cotton shirts and long-line T-shirts and tanks that allow freedom of movement and give off an air of casualness.

Unique selling point: Adaptability and a focus on comfort. We are big on the personal touch because relationships matter – every customer gets a handwritten note with their piece. Also, no more than 15 shirts in each style are available at any point, and each is tailored to you.

What are you doing differently? We are very focused on composition and

aesthetic, and our photos capture a sense of relatability.

The idea was to juxtapose the island vibe of the fabric with urban backgrounds, to pull away from the typical island clichés. We have collaborated with creative minds – for instance, filmmaker Maya Cozier played an important role in early concepts.

Plans for 2020: We see Fella as a lifestyle brand, so we’ll be flowing with it. The last line was inspired by my aunt’s dry-cleaners: I saw a shirt there that had to be 15 years old.

What will be hot this year?

The Caribbean as a whole is an exciting hub of creativity, and it’s amazing to envision what the future has lying ahead for us all as a collective.

Info: Instagram @island_fella; islandfelladesigns@gmail.com

ISLAND FELLA: BERNARD ALEXANDER

FASHION SPECIAL

SUGA APPLE SWIMI BARBADOSI DESIGNER:I KIM ANGOYI Style in three words: Simple, sexy, fun About Suga Apple Swim: We offer a wide range of swimsuit styles for different occasions.

Tanning, boating, playing on the beach or just lounging – we have a style for all.

Unique selling point: Our cuts, prints and colour combinations. Customers also know that they will never find 300 people with the same swimsuit. For more conservative clients we can tweak the designs – all of our pieces are carefully handcrafted on the island.

What are you doing differently? We celebrate all that encompasses femininity, regardless of size, shape,

colour or age. We have had so many women tell us how sexy and confident they feel in our pieces. There is no better feeling than this as a designer.

Whenever we create a style that can be reversed, we do.

This allows our women to get the most out of each piece.

Plans for 2020: There will definitely be a 2020 collection! Expect some braiding, fringes and shells.

Our ‘Ri-Ri’ or ‘X-me Sexy’ style has been a heavy hitter since the style was worn by Rihanna a few years ago. We never have enough of this style.

What will be hot this year?

I think we can expect to see frills and trims, and a bohemian-type flair. Plus lots of natural and sustainable materials.

Info: www.sugaappleswim.com; Instagram @sugaappleswim

FETE-ISHI ST LUCIAI DESIGNER:I KAYLE CASSIUSI Style in three words: Standout, functional, ‘trend-lightly’ About FETE-ish: Footwear to be noticed – not just beautiful but strong.

Unique selling point: FETE-ish offers footwear characterised by stand-out beauty and high quality, so that every pair can be enjoyed for a long time. The brand is also about personal creative expression.

What are you doing differently? Demonstrating a clear commitment to my personal values. Also, I believe in collaboration – I enjoy collaborating with other creatives and customers; I believe there is a designer in everyone. Whenever

I co-design, I always end up with something special. I want to encourage more people to express their individual style by having input into the design of their shoes.

Plans for 2020: ‘Building Blocs’ was my first attempt at putting together a ‘collection’. I applied the foundational concepts of my mostly self-taught and ongoing education in high-heel making and in bold colour blocks. It consists of mid- and high-heel sandals, all with chunky or block heels.

What will be hot this year?

I think we’ll see more focus on design elements on or in shoe heels as well as unconventional heel shapes.

Info: www.myfeteish. com; www.facebook.com/ myfeteish; Instagram @feteish ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 69

FASHION SPECIAL

RECLAIMED ISLANDI DESIGN STUDIOI ST VINCENT &I THE GRENADINESI DESIGNER:I SHARA BALCOMBEI Style in three words: Tropical, boho, chic About Reclaimed Island: We turn post-consumer products and reclaimed materials into fab home décor in imaginative and environmentally conscious ways.

Unique selling point: We rescue and re-invent it so you can relish it. We take old or unwanted things, and create something totally different and chic.

What are you doing differently? We’re not just working with one material. We’ve used bottles, newspaper, salvaged coral, concrete. It’s about what any

given material can become.

Plans for 2020: There is a new collection in the works – I plan to create pieces that are a bit more ornate. My last collection was inspired by Caribbean living, nature and gardening.

What will be hot this year?

Trends like minimalism and eco style will run into 2020 and beyond, especially as people have become more environmentally conscious.

Info: Facebook: Reclaimed Island Design Studio; Instagram @reclaimed islanddesigns; reclaimedisland designstudio@gmail.com

D’PUNCHLINEI TRINIDAD & TOBAGOI DESIGNER:I GABRIELLE PUNCHI Style in three words: Simple, functional, fashionable About D’Punchline: Original, handcrafted leather goods including journals, wallets, shoulder bags and backpacks.

D’Punchline represents my country and myself: Caribbean, one-of-a-kind, high quality, classy yet funky, colourful, innovative, authentic, even imperfect at times.

Unique selling point? I create one-off pieces – there’s no mass production. When a customer purchases one of my pieces, they know they’re the only person in the world who has it. Most of my creations are unisex or gender inclusive.

If you’re a man, and you like a purple cross-body tote I’ve made, just buy it!

What are you doing differently? I’ve expanded beyond the kind of brown, hard, cow-leather goods you typically find in tourist shops in the Caribbean. My pieces are made from soft and luxurious leathers, and are available in a range of colours.

Plans for 2020: I’m looking at collaborations with fellow creatives. Thus far I’ve worked with photographers Rachel Lee Young and James Solomon, and soy candle artisans Galt & Maree, combining my leatherwork with their products to form unique pieces and packages.

What will be hot this year?

I see more funky and modern waist pouches, cross-body chest pouches and backpacks available in every colour.

Info: www.facebook.com/ dpunchlinett; Instagram @dpunchlinett ●

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

TRINIDAD

+1 (8 6 8 ) 6 2 5 336 6 b ook ings@ rp ost h ot el .com www.radisson.com/t rinidad Waterfront City Centre Port of Spain

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 71

CREATIVE CONSERVATION This image: Steel sculptures added to the Willy T have made it into a pirate-themed underwater artwork Opposite: A dedicated team of experts in multiple disciplines worked hard to prepare the boat for sinking

POSITIVELY WR CK D Hurricane Irma wreaked devastation on the BVI. But Beyond The Reef is creating opportunity out of crisis, turning ships and planes into dive sites that will help tourism, local children and Mother Nature...

CREATIVE CONSERVATION

IN AUGUST L AST YE AR , BVI NONPROFIT BEYOND THE REEF

sank the Willy T, the famous BVI floating bar and party barge that had been destroyed by Hurricane Irma. In the months before it was sunk, Willy was converted into an interactive pirate-themed underwater artwork, with masts and sails, a crow’s nest, a dozen pirates (made from recycled materials), a bar and card table for divers to sit at, a treasure chest and cannons strewn about the sea floor. We asked Kendyl Berna, Beyond The Reef co-founder: why?!

Q

This project sounds brilliantly crazy – why are you doing it?

First, we want to recycle derelict vessels that would otherwise be discarded as waste (and would be costly to dispose of in landfill), creating artificial reefs in areas that are in need of additional habitat for fish species and coral growth. We also hope it creates positive tourism publicity for the BVI in a visually interesting way while increasing the number of dive sites.

But the main goal is to generate revenue to benefit local children. We hope that a donation of US$5 will be collected from every diver on the site, which will go directly towards teaching BVI children how to swim. If an average of 30 people dive these sites each 74 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

day, and each donates the suggested US$5, we will have generated almost US$55,000 in just one year.

Why is teaching kids to swim so important? Not only is swimming a fun, social and confidence-boosting activity that all children should be comfortable doing (especially when you live next to some of the world’s most beautiful beaches), it’s also an important skill to ensure safety when living on an island chain.

It’s thought that fewer than a third of children in the BVI know how to swim – it might even be closer to one in ten. This is unfortunate for recreational and safety reasons, and also narrows job opportunities in BVI. The ocean is the BVI’s greatest resource for tourism,

Q

and our hope is that, once local children become comfortable swimming, they can benefit from lucrative careers, becoming boat captains, scuba-diving instructors, sailing instructors, paddleboarding guides and surf instructors. Better yet, if kids learn from a young age that some of the most fun and lucrative jobs are in ocean ecotourism, they will be more likely to protect natural resources.

How did you choose where to sink the Willy T? The boat was sunk in 65 feet of water in Key Bay, Peter Island.

This is a beautiful, peaceful spot only a short ride away from Road Town, a sheltered bay with minimal current that can be dived any day of the year. It’s also a barren, sandy spot next to a reef that could use an ecosystem boost. Chris Juredin (co-founder of Beyond The Reef) is a ship-sinking mastermind and sank Willy T perfectly so that the end of the plank sits about five feet away from the coral wall. We also situated cannons on

Q

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

the seabed between the coral heads in a gully, pointing towards the wreck to bring the divers in, so the experience can start before they even see the boat.

Key Bay is also ideal as we want to expand the project and create a sort of underwater artificial reef theme park, and we can continue to build on it here.

How did you do it? It took eight months to get all the necessary approvals to sink four vessels in total (Willy T plus three planes that we are converting into sharks). The government and the local community are on board.

Everyone is so enthusiastic.

After Irma, the boat had been stranded on the beach at Norman Island for nearly two years, during which time it had got really stuck – the entire keel was buried deep, and the bow was dry on the sand. Once commercial divers had welded the boat back together so that it would float, it took three attempts to pull the boat off

Q

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

the rocks. We had an excavator on land digging the sand from under it while a crane on a barge lifted the ship and a tug pulled it. Eventually it came off!

After that the Willy T was stripped of all hazardous materials, then there was an intensive period of adding pirate-themed artwork. We also cut holes in the boat – this time purposefully! We used underwater metal-cutting gear to create ports to provide diver access, and capped them so that, on the day of the sink, we could easily unscrew all of the caps and flood the boat evenly.

Before towing Willy T to its final resting place, divers installed lift-bags filled with air throughout the boat that essentially acted as giant balloons to set the boat upright if it began to keel over. The final precautionary measure for ensuring the boat sank upright in the right location was to install a four-point mooring system using large

ship anchors and chains. During the sinking process these moorings were constantly adjusted to align the vessel with the reef and stop it drifting or favouring one side. Luckily all of this worked and the boat sank perfectly upright exactly where we wanted it!

What has been the reaction so far? Divers keep coming back, raving about the attention to detail and the ‘underwater theme-park’ experience. The BVI has some of the most amazing pirate history in the Caribbean, and we hope that building awareness through the wreck site will bring further attention to this rich and somewhat forgotten history. Involving the local community has also generated excitement, as well as awareness about our marine environment.

How does this help the ocean?

We aim to enhance ocean life by creating artificial reef systems for aquatic species to inhabit and thrive

Q

Above: Once the artistic elements on the boat were completed, careful preparations were made to ensure that the Willy T sank in exactly the right place and settled at the right angle

Q

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 75

where the seafloor is desolate or damaged by storms or human activity.

We are using steel and concrete only as materials for the wreck. We’ve added rebar (steel) structures onto the boat, which is itself steel, and we believe that, with the amount of welding we did prior to sinking, the boat will hold enough of a low-voltage charge of electricity that electrolysis will immediately begin and increase calcification. The other material we use is concrete, which is one of the best materials for creating an artificial reef because its composition is close to natural coral limestone.

It’s hard to gauge exactly, but we may start seeing some calcification within the first year; it will then increase year by year after that. In, say, 150 years’ time, the Willy T will start to blend in with the natural environment, but you will still be able to see that it’s there.

It sounds like a huge project.

Did you have a lot of help?

There’s a huge amount of expertise in the Beyond The Reef team. We are guided by an underwater engineer, an oceanographer and an environmental filmmaker, and were lucky to be able to employ numerous welders, commercial divers, and barge and crane operators who all brought together unique knowledge to get the project done successfully. Our co-founder, Chris Juredin, also owns the local

Q

76 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

companies Commercial Dive Services and We Be Divin, which donated time, experience, heavy machinery and materials, without which it would have been nearly impossible to get this project done.

Chris and Commercial Dive Services were also heavily involved in the 2017 sinking of the Kodiak Queen ship to create an artificial reef, and we were able to bring back and collaborate with several of the brilliant minds from that project, including lead welders and artists Drew Shook and Josh Wilson, as well as Aydika James from Secret Samurai Productions for fundraising help and art direction.

We also had help from EarthEcho 3 International, Philippe Cousteau’s USbased nonprofit, which has a similar mission to empower youth in marine science. Philippe had visited the BVI while filming a show called Caribbean Pirate Treasure in 2017 (a few months before the hurricane), and loved the Willy T and the diving here. When I told him about the good that could come from recycling it and converting it into an artificial reef to increase dive tourism and fund teaching children how to swim, he wanted to be involved.

What’s next? We have further expanded the art-reef with the three planes-come-sharks. The planes are going back into an already amazing dive spot called the Coral Gardens off

Above: The process of sinking the Willy T was a tricky job – but now it’s on the seabed in Key Bay, Peter Island, it provides a fun playground for scuba divers at all levels Right: What might you spy underwater in the warm, clear seas of the BVI?

Q

 WWW.1BEYOND THEREEF.COM; @1BEYONDTHEREEF

Great Dog Island. They will sit about 40-45 feet deep in beautiful, gin-clear water with scattered coral heads and a good amount of marine life – a perfect spot for new or highly experienced divers alike.

Before the storm, there were already airplanes there. We wanted to replace them so that people could continue to enjoy this awesome dive spot, but when given the opportunity to start from scratch with new (hurricanedamaged) airplanes, we had the crazy thought that they have a similar shape to sharks, so could be easily converted to become half-shark half-airplanes!

They are already being referred to as ‘sharkplaneos’. Beyond The Reef’s mission also includes raising awareness of threatened species across the globe, and we hope that creating something fun and silly like the shark airplanes can communicate a message encouraging people to be enthusiastic about sharks and their conservation.

We have spent several months working to prepare the airplanes, which has included removing and relocating them from the airport, stripping them of all environmental hazards and finally working to complete the shark conversion. We hope to sink all three in the first week of December [after this magazine went to press] during the BVI’s Wreck Week, a week-long annual event remembering the old and celebrating the new shipwrecks of the BVI. ● www.liat.com | January - February 2020

CREATIVE CONSERVATION

LIAT NEWS & EVENTS

LIAT

Events & news across our network LIAT NEWS WELCOME ABOARD HEALTHY TRAVEL ROUTES ISLAND GUIDES FOCUS: ST KITTS & NEVIS

PAGE 78 PAGE 80 PAGE 81 PAGE 83 PAGE 84 PAGE 88

MEET THE TEAM INETA GRAHAM SAMUELI DUTY MANAGER, CALL CENTRE Nationality: Antiguan How long have you been working at LIAT? I started on 30 November 1979, so that makes 40 years with LIAT. I’ve worked at the traffic department, at ticketing and now at the Call Centre.

What do you love about your job? My job is much

more than a pay cheque.

I get to assist, interact and collaborate with some awesome people – my external and internal customers. I am very thankful for their loyalty.

And with team work, I get to provide a solution to their problems, which motivates me to serve.

OUR FLEET

LIAT currently operates a fleet of ten ATR aircraft – five ATR 42-600 and five ATR 72-600 – improving comfort and efficiency. These aircraft provide safe, economical and reliable services for the frequencies and ranges of our Caribbean routes.

ATR 42-600

ATR 72-600



Crew: 2+1



Crew: 2+2



Passengers: 48



Passengers: 68



Engines: Two PW127M



Engines: Two PW127M

turboprop  

turboprop

Power: 2160shp



Power: 2500shp

Cruise speed: 300



Cruise speed: 275

knots (556km/h)

knots (510km/h)



Maximum range: 1484km



Maximum range: 1825km



Maximum take-off



Maximum take-off

weight: 18,600kg 

Average cabin noise level: 79dBA

Last semester the students at the Springer Memorial School in Barbados were engaged in the LIAT ‘Fly with Words’ Essay & Speech Competition.

The competition was aimed at getting students to write or speak about any of the other 14 destinations in the LIAT network. First, Second and Third formers were asked to write an essay while Fourth, Fifth and Sixth formers were asked to do a creative speech. Special congratulations to Myeisha Bryan and Danica EstophileDuncan who won the essay competition and speech competition respectively!

Myeisha and Danica each won four tickets to any LIAT destination of their choice.

LIAT continues to support initiatives such as these that help young persons to explore and learn more about the region they live in.

weight: 22,800kg 

Average cabin noise level: 79dBA

FOR SCHEDULES, SPECIAL OFFERS, DEALS OR TO MAKE RESERVATIONS, VISIT LIAT.COM 78 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

FLYING WITH WORDS

Favourite LIAT destination: San Juan, Puerto Rico – it’s my gateway to more US territories.

Favourite Caribbean food: Seafood, any style, and pepper pot and fungi.

Progress continues on the Caribsky project, which aims to connect travellers across the region. LIAT is working with Air Antilles and WINAIR to seamlessly connect travellers to destinations in the combined network, which spans over 35 airports, with the ease of using one ticket.

CARIBSKY CONTINUES www.liat.com | January - February 2020

CLICK AHEAD

Go to LIAT.COM. To save time, book online.

A YEAR OF PARTNERSHIPS

LIAT continues to work with destinations across the region Last year was a successful year of partnerships between LIAT and several destinations. LIAT partnered with Antigua & Barbuda for its #WhatCoolLooks LikeCampaign. This saw more regional travellers experiencing what Antigua has to offer, and Antigua recorded an increase in the number of regional arrivals for 2019.

LIAT also partnered with Barbados for several events including #NoCrewLeftBehind for Crop Over, the

Barbados Open Water Festival and the Run Barbados Marathon.

Egbert Riley, Head of Sales & Marketing, noted that these partnerships were beneficial to both LIAT and the destinations: more Caribbean travellers were experiencing what the region has to offer, and getting there more easily with great LIAT connections.

STEP 1:  Choose a One-Way or Round-Trip Flight  Select your starting point and your chosen departure date  Enter your destination (and return date if applicable)  Select the number of people travelling in your party and click ‘Find Flights’ STEP 2:  You will be shown the available flights for your selection and the fare  Select the flights you wish to take, confirm that you have reviewed, and agree to, the pricing and policies on this page, and

click ‘Select and Continue’ STEP 3:  Complete the details of each person travelling in your party  Complete your contact information STEP 3:  Select whether you wish to take out travel insurance  A total package price is displayed  Complete credit card details to make payment STEP 5:  Confirmation of your payment and an itinerary will be displayed. That’s it – all done!

GIVE US A CALL

Booking is even easier with our Reservations Call Centre It’s now simpler than ever to book your LIAT flight. In 2019 our Reservations Call Centre went through several technological upgrades to ensure easier access for calls from across the region. The Call Centre has also improved its coaching programme and staff have undergone several training programmes to boost their skills. So your next call to us will be the best, whether it’s to make a reservation or get information on your LIAT flight.

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 79

LIAT TRAVEL GUIDE & INFORMATION

WELCOME ABOARD

Useful information to ensure the best possible flying experience

CHECK-IN • ARRIVAL

of cabin baggage at a maximum weight of 15lbs (7kg) and maximum overall dimensions of 21 inches x 14 inches x 8 inches (53 x 35 x 20 cm). These dimensions include wheels, all pockets and handles.

• FREE BAGGAGE There are a few select smaller items which LIAT will allow to be carried onboard in addition to the allowances above. These include, but are not limited to, items such as a laptop, lady’s handbag or purse, overcoat, umbrella, walking stick, cane and camera.

A child’s push-chair is also permitted.

We recommend that you arrive at the airport to check in a minimum of two hours prior to your scheduled time of departure. Check-in closes 45 minutes before departure, at which point LIAT reserves the right to cancel the reservations of any passenger who has not yet checked in.

• EXCESS BAGGAGE

• CONNECTING FLIGHTS

• EMBARGOES

It is the passenger’s responsibility when making bookings to allow adequate time for baggage collection and rechecking if connecting to another carrier. We recommend at least 180 minutes between international connecting flights.

During particularly busy periods LIAT places additional limitations on checked baggage on certain routes. System-wide embargo periods are 1 December-15 January and 1 July-10 September.

Pieces exceeding the above allowance will be subject to excess baggage charges and will be accepted on a space available (standby) basis.

• DEPARTURE GATES

ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT

Once checked in, passengers must present themselves at the departure gate and be ready to board their flight no later than 30 minutes prior to departure. Passengers not in the boarding area by this specified time prior to scheduled departure are subject to seat cancellation.



DOCUMENTATION Travelling on the LIAT network is considered international travel. All customers are required to present proof of identity, such as a valid government-issued photo ID, and proof of citizenship, such as a passport, at the LIAT check-in counter. Passengers must also be in possession of a copy of their itinerary as proof of their onward or return journey.

BAGGAGE • LUGGAGE

The free baggage allowance for all LIAT services is a maximum of one bag weighing 50lbs (23kg) per adult or child passenger. The maximum overall length is 62 inches (157cm). LIAT will not accept any baggage item that weighs more than 70lbs (32kg).

• HAND BAGGAGE Space in the overhead lockers on the aircraft is limited so, for comfort and safety, customers are allowed one piece

80 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

AND PERSONAL DEVICES All portable electronic devices must remain off and properly stowed during taxi, take-off, approach and landing until the plane is at the gate and the seatbelt sign is turned off. Your flight attendant will tell you when you may use approved portable electronic devices in-flight.  Devices with transmitting capabilities (combination cell phones/PDA devices or laptop computers with wireless capabilities) may only be used if the transmit capability is turned off and can be

verified as such by the flight attendant.  The use of cell phones (to make or receive calls), two-way pagers, radios, TV sets, any remotecontrolled equipment (DVD, CD, games or toy remote controls), a cordless computer mouse, commercial TV cameras or Global Positioning Systems is prohibited during flight.  Radio transmission using personal communications and navigation systems (walkie-talkies, twoway pagers, or wireless headphones) is prohibited,

as it may interfere with the aircraft’s communication and navigation systems.  Devices that could cause damage to equipment or that may diminish the design, function or capability of the aircraft may be prohibited.  You may use audio and video devices only with the headset.  Use of still and video cameras, film or digital, is permitted only for recording personal events.

Photography or video recording of the airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited.

FOR SCHEDULES, SPECIAL OFFERS, DEALS OR TO MAKE RESERVATIONS, VISIT LIAT.COM www.liat.com | January - February 2020

• PACKING Lock and label your baggage inside and out. Do not pack any prohibited materials and never accept a package from someone you do not know. Ensure bags are secure and in good condition. For full information please refer to our Baggage Acceptance Policy on liat.com.

SECURITY Your checked and carry-on baggage may be subject to security screening. There are some items that are prohibited in carry-on baggage and some items which are prohibited in checked baggage. Generally you are prohibited from carrying dangerous goods, restricted items such as flammable liquids, compressed gases, corrosive, magnetised or radioactive materials, toxic and infectious substances and sharp or other dangerous objects. To avoid delays during the passenger screening process, we recommend that you place items such as jewellery, keys, cell phones etc. in your carry-on baggage.

BOOKING AMENDMENTS LIAT now offers five fares, ranging from great-value Web Saver fares to Fully Flexible fares. Changes may be made to reservations before the scheduled departure time of an intended flight, depending on the fare chosen; fees for cancellations or making changes also vary according to fare. Changes can be made online or by contacting LIAT at reservations@liat.com or by calling 1-888-844-5428.

INFANTS/CHILDREN/MINORS

One infant over seven days old and under 24 months not occupying a seat is carried at a fee of US$20 per segment when included in the booking of the accompanying adult passenger. Accompanying children aged two to 11 will be charged the applicable child fare for the flight.

• UNACCOMPANIED MINORS LIAT’s Unaccompanied Minor (UM) Policy caters primarily for children from five to 11. Parents wishing for a young person (YP) of 12 to 15 years to travel with supervision will be allowed to do so as per UM policy. An unaccompanied minor will be charged the applicable child fare for the flight in addition to a service fee of US$50 per segment.

For full terms of acceptance, view our Unaccompanied Minor Policy at liat.com.

PETS Pets include dogs, cats and domestic birds. LIAT will accept pets for carriage in the aircraft checked baggage compartment only. Prior notice of at least 24 hours must be given. Transportation of pets requires import/export licences and veterinary clearances.

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

FLY HEALTHY Follow our top 12 tips to help you reach your destination feeling fresh, healthy and relaxed 1 HYDRATE The low cabin humidity in planes can cause dry eyes, nose and throat, especially on longer journeys. Drink plenty of water and fruit juice and keep alcohol, tea and coffee to a minimum as these can lead to dehydration. Apply skin moisturiser and lip balm and, if possible, remove contact lenses.

2 BE RESTED Get a good night’s sleep before you travel, eat a light meal – nothing too heavy or rich – and do some gentle exercise(s) before leaving.

what can be carried on board, see the information to the left.

7 EAT PROPERLY Eat a light, well-balanced meal before you travel, avoiding excessive salt, sugar and dairy products. Try to steer clear of fizzy drinks and gaseous food.

Eating and drinking in excess (except water!) or consuming the wrong type of food can lead to indigestion and uncomfortable bloating.

8 STAY FOCUSED

Wear cool, loose-fitting clothing and shoes that are not too restrictive.

If you are prone to motion sickness during take-off, landing or in the event of turbulence, try to focus on a fixed object. Some people also believe that applying pressure to your earlobes can reduce nausea.

4 UNDER PRESSURE?

9 BREATHE EASY

If your ears feel blocked during take-off and landing, ease the pressure by yawning, swallowing, or by sucking a sweet.

The sinuses are air-filled cavities located around the nose. As the aircraft climbs, the air expands and escapes through a tube leading into the nose. If any sinus is blocked, the air will be trapped and will press on the surrounding tissues as it expands.

To ease sinus pressure, try an inhalant such as Karvol which contains menthol and the essential oils of the thyme plant. This should be sprinkled over a pillow or handkerchief, and then held close to your nose while you breathe in deeply. Aromatherapy oils such as peppermint or eucalyptus will also help clear congestion and can be used in the same way.

3 DRESS COMFORTABLY

5 KEEP MOVING! Keep your circulation going by repeating some of our recommended exercises at regular intervals.

6 KEEP IT HANDY Pack essentials in your carry-on bag for quick, easy access. Don’t forget medication, your glasses or contact lens case, and a toothbrush and some wet wipes to keep you fresh and to clean up any spills! For clarity as to

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LIAT TRAVEL GUIDE & INFORMATION

10 TRAVELLING WITH INFANTS? Feed your baby during take-off and landing to reduce discomfort caused by changes in cabin pressure. Ask flight attendants for any help you require.

11 INSIDER KNOWLEDGE Abdominal pain during flight is often caused by the expansion of gas in the stomach or intestines. To lessen the chances of stomach pain, don’t consume too many gas-inducing foods before flying, such as peas, beans and cauliflower, and avoid too many carbonated drinks.

Chewing gum can also cause discomfort

as it makes you swallow air. Whatever you consume, try to eat and drink slowly.

12 BOOST YOUR IMMUNE SYSTEM A study in the Journal of Environmental Health Research says you may be 100 times more likely to catch a cold on a plane than in normal life. To reduce the risk of picking something up, wash your hands often, don’t smoke (as this irritates the airways, increasing the chance of infection) and pack a lemon in your bag which you can then squeeze into water for a vitamin C boost on board.

CONTACT US RESERVATIONS 1-888-844-LIAT (5428) for customers calling from most destinations in the Caribbean region 

EASY EXERCISES

866-549-5428 for customers calling from Puerto Rico and US Virgin Islands



Keep your circulation going with these in-seat exercises: SHOULDER ROTATION



Raise your shoulders up and rotate back to front.

Repeat several times in each direction.

With heels on the floor, lift your toes upward as far as possible, hold for several seconds, then relax and repeat several times.

FINGER/TOE STRETCH



Clench fingers inward towards palms, then stretch outwards.

Repeat several times and do the same with your toes. 



Lift one heel as high as possible while keeping toes on the floor, then relax heel to the floor. Repeat while alternating right and left heels.

ANKLE ROTATION

Lift one foot off the floor, keeping your leg stationary. Move it in small circular motions in each direction. Repeat with other foot.

82 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

HEEL LIFT



NECK ROLL

Bring chin to chest, then slowly rotate head clockwise several times. Repeat in the other direction.

480 5582 for customers calling from Antigua



(268) 480-5601/2 if calling from any other country



Email: reservations@liat.com

BAGGAGE

FOOT FLEX





Tel: (268) 480 5705 for queries in Antigua only Email: baggage@liat.com. When contacting us with a baggage enquiry, please have the following information at hand or in your email, so we can follow up on your query efficiently:  Name of passenger(s)  Nature of problem/ complaint  Date of incident, flight information, island where incident occurred  Amount of expenditure incurred, if any  Mailing address Please keep receipts for any expenditure, the passenger receipt from your ticket and the baggage sticker given to you by the check-in agent. For full contact details for the baggage station nearest you, visit liat.com  

TOP TIP! DRINK PLENTY OF WATER AND FRUIT JUICE AND KEEP ALCOHOL, TEA AND COFFEE TO A MINIMUM AS THESE CAN LEAD TO DEHYDRATION

QUIKPAK Sending small packages by air? Use our freight service by contacting:  Tel: (268) 480 5733/4/5

FOR A FULL SET OF CONTACT DETAILS FOR ALL OFFICES IN THE LIAT ORGANISATION, PLEASE VISIT LIAT.COM

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

TORTOLA PUERTO RICO ST MAARTEN ST THOMAS ST KITTS ANTIGUA

GUADELOUPE

DOMINICA

COME FLY WITH US!

Linking so many destinations across the Caribbean, LIAT makes exploring the region easy. Hop on and enjoy the ride...

FOR SCHEDULES, SPECIAL OFFERS AND TO MAKE RESERVATIONS, VISIT LIAT.COM

MARTINIQUE

ST LUCIA BARBADOS

ST VINCENT

GRENADA

bove: Spot cock-of-the-rock in Guyana Middle: Hike the Pitons, St Lucia Right: Browse the markets of Martinique

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

GUYANA

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 83

ST LUCIA TOURIST BOARD

TRINIDAD

LIAT TRAVEL GUIDE & INFORMATION

DESTINATION GUIDE

Essential information for when you fly The diversity of the Caribbean makes it a wonderful region to explore whatever your tastes or interests. Across all our destinations there really is something for everyone, but if the choice seems almost overwhelming, fear not: this comprehensive country guide will help you discover the basics about each of the fantastic locations LIAT flies to, and we’ll focus on one particular island in more detail in every issue.

We’d like to show that although the Caribbean may be known across the globe for its beautiful beaches, travellers shouldn’t underestimate the range of opportunities to learn more about the culture and lifestyle of each destination, or to indulge in a favourite pastime or passion.

Eating out across the region is a real experience as well, and festivals or special events can turn a simple night out into an evening full of memorable entertainment. Every country has its own special appeal, and on the following pages you can read the key facts about each, gain some insider tips, see what’s new and discover the key highlights to look out for. Use these guides and consult the map on the previous page to help you plan your itinerary.

INFORMATION COURTESY OF THE CARIBBEAN TOURISM ORGANIZATION WWW.CARIBBEAN.CO.UK

SCHEDULE WATCH: KEEP AN EYE ON OUR SCHEDULES TO ALL DESTINATIONS, AND FIND INFORMATION ABOUT NEW ROUTES, BY VISITING LIAT.COM REGULARLY 84 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA

Goat Point

WHAT’S HOT? Take an

off-road Land Rover Island Safari to explore local villages SIZE: A 108 sq miles/ B 62 sq miles CURRENCY: EC dollar POPULATION: 86,295 LANGUAGE: English MAIN CITY: Antigua: St John’s; Barbuda: Codrington LOCAL RUM: English Harbour five-year-old rum DISH OF THE DAY: Ducana, a savoury mixture of grated sweet potato, coconut, sugar and spices

BARBUDA

Codrington Martello Tower

INSIDER TIP:

“Kiteboarding in Antigua is a hidden gem. If I just want to hang out I love Half Moon Bay’s natural beauty. My favourite place to eat is Papa Zouk’s in St John’s.”

Deep Bay

VC Bird Airport

St John s Jolly Harbour

Nonsuch Bay All Saints

ANTIGUA

ANDRE PHILLIP, PRO KITEBOARDER, BORN IN ANTIGUA WWW.VISITANTIGUABARBUDA.COM

Nelson's Dockyard

English Harbour

DOMINICA WHAT’S HOT?

Portsmouth

Melville Hall Airport

Go whalewatching – Dominica is the only Marigot country in the world to have a resident population Mt Diablotin of sperm whales SIZE: 289 sq miles CURRENCY: EC dollar Salisbury POPULATION: 71,293 LANGUAGE: English MAIN CITY: Roseau LOCAL Rosalie Canefield Airport BEER: Kubuli DISH OF THE DAY: Broth, a delicious one-pot meal including fish, smoked meat or Morne Trois chicken, ground provisions (often Roseau Pitons NP cassava) and dumplings DESTINATION HIGHLIGHT: Visit Kalinago Barana Aute, where you can tour a model Grand Bay Kalinago village, experience a herbal Scotts Head medicine garden and see artisans build canoes and weave baskets.

WWW.DISCOVERDOMINICA.COM

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

Anegada Virgin Gorda

BARBADOS WHAT’S HOT? Grab your swimsuit and chill at one of

the island’s newest beach bars – Sea Shed, La Cabane, Blue Pineapple or One Eleven East SIZE: 166 sq miles CURRENCY: Barbadian dollar POPULATION: 275,000 MAIN CITY: Bridgetown LOCAL BEER: Banks DISH OF THE DAY: Flying fish and cou cou

Jost Van Dyke

Elizabeth Bay Cane Garden Bay

Terrance B Road Town Lettsome Airport Sage Mountain Long Bay Soper's Hole

INSIDER TIP:

North Point

“I always love Oistins. Going there for the fish fry, it’s great – the live music, grilled fish all cooked to order, a few rum cocktails. I think it just really shows the perfect side of Barbados and what Bathsheba it’s all about.”

Speightstown

Holetown

Gun Hill

Ragged Point

TOM AIKENS, ENGLISH MICHELIN STAR CHEF, OWNER OF TOM’S KITCHEN

Bridgetown Grantley Adams Airport

WWW.VISITBARBADOS.ORG

Peter Norman

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS WHAT’S HOT? Feast on Anegada spiny lobster – curried, barbecued, grilled, as ceviche or in fritters SIZE: 60 islands CURRENCY: US dollar POPULATION: 32,800 LANGUAGE: English MAIN CITY: Road Town LOCAL RUMS: Arundel, Soggy Dollar DISH OF THE DAY: Fish and fungi DESTINATION HIGHLIGHT: Sailing! BVI is a sailor’s

paradise, with consistent trade winds, clear blue water and sunny days.

CARIBBEAN CHALLENGE: Book a catamaran with your very own captain onboard or go bareboat. Be spontaneous and have breakfast on Tortola, lunch on Jost Van Dyke, dinner on Virgin Gorda…the choice is yours!

WWW.BVITOURISM.COM

Port Louis

PETIT MARTINIQUE

GRENADA

GRANDETERRE

WHAT’S HOT? Snorkel the world’s

first Underwater Sculpture Park SIZE: 133 sq miles CURRENCY: EC dollar POPULATION: 109,000 LANGUAGE: English MAIN CITY: St George’s LOCAL BEER: Carib DISH OF THE DAY: Oil down – a one-pot dish of breadfruit, dumplings, RONDE salted meat and vegetables stewed in coconut milk

CARRIACOU

INSIDER TIP:

Sauteurs ictoria Paradise

Concord

Grand Etang Lake St George s Maurice Bishop Airport

La Sagesse Nature Reserve

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

Spanish Town

“Take a few lungfuls of air: you can smell the spices in the breeze. Stop at the Spice Market in St George’s then walk along the Carenage waterfront before a seafood lunch. Drive into the rainforest and walk to a waterfall, then head to the beach for sunset.”

JOHNSON BEHARRY VC WWW.PUREGRENADA.COM

Deshaies

LA DÉSIRADE

Le Raizet Airport Pointe-a-Pitre

BASSETERRE

Marigot

Saint Francois

La Soufriere Volcano

Basse Terre LES SAINTES

MARIEGALANTE

GUADELOUPE ISLANDS WHAT’S HOT? Explore the fascinating Mémorial ACTe,

a cultural centre dedicated to the memory and history of the slave trade in the Caribbean SIZE: 660 sq miles CURRENCY: Euro POPULATION: 451,000 LANGUAGE: French, English and Creole are widely spoken MAIN CITY: Basse-Terre LOCAL BEER: Gwada Gold DISH OF THE DAY: Queen conch fricassee DESTINATION HIGHLIGHT: Climb La Soufrière volcano, highest peak in the Lesser Antilles, and hike in Guadeloupe National Park, stopping at La Cascade aux Écrevisses for a refreshing splash.

WWW.LESILESDEGUADELOUPE.COM

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 85

LIAT TRAVEL GUIDE & INFORMATION

Basse-Pointe

Grand Riviere

GUYANA

Marigot

WHAT’S HOT? Sustainable tourism – many lodges

and communities embrace low-carbon lifestyles SIZE: 83,850 sq miles CURRENCY: Guyanese dollar Mabaruma POPULATION: 741,908 LANGUAGE: English, Arawak, Carib and Guyanese Creole Georgetown MAIN CITY: Georgetown LOCAL BEER: Banks New DISH OF THE DAY:

Cheddi Jagan Airport

Cookup rice (rice and peas boiled in coconut milk with meat)

Linden

Amsterdam

Kaieteur Falls

INSIDER TIP: “It was truly one of the most

beautiful things I’ve ever done. It really makes you understand how much you do not need on a daily basis.”

CHANNING TATUM, AMERICAN ACTOR, AFTER TAKING A 16-DAY BUSHMASTERS RIVER TRIP IN GUYANA

Lethem Rupununi Savannah

WWW.GUYANA-TOURISM.COM

Sainte-Marie

MARTINIQUE

Saint Pierre

WHAT’S HOT?

Culinary workshops are available for guests who would like to discover the most Fort-de-France authentic dishes with Ma Cuisine Créole. SIZE: 1100 sq miles Aime Cesaire Airport CURRENCY: Euro POPULATION: Vauclin 403,000 LANGUAGE: French MAIN CITY: Fort-de-France Marin Grand Anse LOCAL BEER: Lorraine DISH OF THE DAY: Colombo Point des of chicken with white rice Salines DESTINATION HIGHLIGHT: Follow La Route du Rhum (the Rum Route), a trip through the history of sugar cane and rum. Martinique has 11 distilleries, seven still in operation. All Martinique rums have the AOC label, the world’s only rums to have been awarded the prestigious French accolade.

WWW.MARTINIQUETOURISME.COM

Fancy

ST LUCIA WHAT’S HOT?

Pigeon Point

Roam the Tet Paul Nature Rodney Bay Trail, which combines culture, history, horticulture and spectacular landscapes George FL Charles Airport SIZE: 238 sq miles CURRENCY: EC dollar and US dollar POPULATION: 171,000 Castries LANGUAGE: English MAIN CITY: Grande Anse Marigot Bay Castries LOCAL BEER: Piton Beer DISH OF THE DAY: Green fig and saltfish DESTINATION Grand Riviere HIGHLIGHT: Board a catamaran, taking in the beautiful west coast en Mt Gimie Praslin Soufriere route to the island’s Petit Piton south – home to the Pitons, and to a chocolate Gros Piton hotel and plantation.

Then visit one of the world’s only drive-in Laborie volcanoes and dip in Maria Islands healing mud baths.

Nature Reserve

WWW.STLUCIA.ORG

ST VINCENT & THE GRENADINES

La Soufriere Chateaubelair

WHAT’S HOT?

Georgetown

With steel pan, soca and a carnival ST VINCENT queen, Vincy Mas (June-July) Layou is one of the hottest carnivals Biabou in the Caribbean!

Mesopotamia Kingstown SIZE: 133 sq miles Argyle Airport CURRENCY: EC dollar POPULATION: 109,022 LANGUAGE: English BEQUIA MAIN CITY: Kingstown LOCAL BEER: Hairoun DISH OF THE DAY:

Jackfish and breadfruit CARIBBEAN CHALLENGE: Take the

tiny ferry to Young Island to relax on this private outcrop. Then catch the ferry to Bequia to explore its unspoilt charm. Next, hail a fishing boat to visit Mustique before finishing up on cool Canouan – phew!

MUSTIQUE

CANOUAN WWW.DISCOVERSVG.COM TOBAGO CAYS UNION ISLAND

86 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

Arecibo Rincon

SINT MAARTEN / ST MARTIN

San Juan Luis Munoz Marin Airport Caguas

San German

Ponce Bosque Estatal de Guanica

CULEBRA

El Yunque

VIEQUES

Patillas

PUERTO RICO WHAT’S HOT? Visit the Toro Verde Adventure Park and

conquer ‘The Beast’, one of the longest and highest ziplines in the world SIZE: 3435 sq miles CURRENCY: US dollar POPULATION: 3.9 million LANGUAGE: Spanish and English MAIN CITY: San Juan LOCAL BEER: Medalla DISH OF THE DAY: Mofongo (mashed plantains with seafood, meat or vegetables)

WHAT’S HOT? Flyboarding: water-jet-powered flying above the waves! SIZE: 37 sq miles CURRENCY: Euro/ US dollar/guilder/florin POPULATION: 70,000 MAIN CITY: Philipsburg LANGUAGE: English, French, Dutch DISH OF THE DAY: Conch and dumplings CARIBBEAN CHALLENGE: Stop by the

botanical garden where the Rastafarian community grow fruit, vegetables and medicinal plants, or shop till you drop, enjoying duty-free prices on a range of items from perfumes to jewellery and Grand Case clothing to electronics.

ST MARTIN

Paradise Peak

TERRES BASSES

Marigot

INSIDER TIP:

“A walking tour of Old San Juan is a must-do. With its distinctive blue cobbled streets, Spanish-influenced open plazas and small boutiques, Old San Juan is the perfect place for an afternoon stroll.”

Princess Juliana Airport Maho Bay

Orleans SINT MAARTEN

Simpson Bay

CAROL SMITH, CO-OPERATIVE PERSONAL TRAVEL ADVISOR WWW.STMARTINISLAND.ORG WWW.VACATIONSTMAARTEN.COM

WWW.SEEPUERTORICO.COM

Orient Beach

Guana Bay Philipsburg

TRINIDAD & TOBAGO WHAT’S HOT? Stand-up paddleboard with

bioluminescence – magical! See www.standuppaddle tobago.com SIZE: Trinidad 1850 sq miles; Tobago 182 sq miles CURRENCY: TT dollar POPULATION: 1.5 million LANGUAGE: English MAIN CITY: Trinidad: Port of Spain; Tobago: Scarborough LOCAL BEER: Carib DISH OF THE DAY: Hot roti – a delicious curry-filled pasty

Cyril E King Airport

Charlotte Amalie Ferry Dock

TOBAGO

INSIDER TIP:

“Check out one of the Scarborough many pan yards around Toco Port of Spain where Maracas Bay locals practise.

Matura These often Port of Spain turn into night spots Piarco Airport Sangre Grande where fans can have a drink and listen to music.”

Manzanilla

Chaguanas

RUDOLPH WALKER OBE, EASTENDERS ACTOR WWW.GOTRINIDAD ANDTOBAGO.COM

Magens Bay

TRINIDAD

Beach

San Fernando Rio Claro Pitch Lake Siparia

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

Moruga

USVI: ST THOMAS WHAT’S HOT? Flipper yourself along the 250m-long

underwater snorkel trail at Trunk Bay – it’s great for beginners, with plaques providing information about the marine life along the trail SIZE: 32 sq miles CURRENCY: US dollar POPULATION: 51,600 LANGUAGE: English MAIN CITY: Charlotte Amalie LOCAL RUM: Cruzan DISH OF THE DAY: Callaloo DESTINATION HIGHLIGHT: The iconic, white-sand Magens Bay is an ideal retreat for watersports or simply relaxing. Try standup paddleboarding, rent a kayak, explore the coconut grove or zipline through the nearby treetops for great views over the beautiful bay.

WWW.VISITUSVI.COM

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 87

LIAT TRAVEL GUIDE & INFORMATION

St Pauls Tabernacle Mt Liamuiga

F CUS ON…

Brimstone Hill

ST KITTS

Old Road Town

Conaree Beach

Robert L Bradshaw Airport St Kitts is the Basseterre quintessential Caribbean. On this snorkelling or diving on the intoxicating island you’ll find colourful reefs. There are superb ecological wonders, genuine sailing options, too, from sunset South Friar’s Bay hospitality, beautiful and cruises to whalewatching trips.

Southeast uncrowded shores, active History buffs can learn all Peninsula adventures and a rich cultural about St Kitts’ fascinating past.

The heritage. If you’re looking for A visit to the well-preserved Narrows a slice of laid-back paradise, remains of Brimstone Hill you’ve got it: spend days Fortress is a must, as is a swimming in ride on the doubleturquoise waters decker carriages of Ride the Caribbean’s last sugar train and relaxing in 25-27 JUNE 2020 the old sugar train.

The St Kitts Scenic Railway chugs through the characterful Indeed, there are 24TH ANNUAL island’s sweet history and spectacular landscapes.

ST KITTS MUSIC beach bars. But remnants of the FESTIVAL you can also island’s sugary past Explore the Eco-Park Learn all about the local STKITTSMUSIC delve deep into dotted across the plants and take in the lush island views.

FESTIVAL.COM the history of the hillsides – watch for Hike to the top of Mount Liamuiga island, visiting centuriesabandoned chimneys poking This dormant volcano is the highest point on the old forts and staying at out amid the tropical flora. island – follow trails leading up to the crater. elegant plantation houses.

St Kitts is an island that caters Visit Brimstone Much of St Kitts’ dramatic to all sorts of travellers. But Hill Fortress This interior is cloaked in verdant whether you’re dancing away at UNESCO-listed site dates rainforest, offering fantastic Carnival, drinking champagne at back to the 17th century opportunities for hiking Ottley’s Plantation or enjoying and gives a great insight up volcanoes, exploring by the lime at Mr X’s Shiggidy Shack into Kittitian history. quadbike or on horseback, Beach Bar, you’ll be bowled or skimming the treetops over by this warm, welcoming, Hop over to Nevis St Kitts’ sister isle is just on a zipline. The coastline wonderful island. a short ferry ride away! is a dream, too. The water is  WWW.STKITTSTOURISM.KN dazzling, the beaches never Top: Ride the St Kitts Scenic Railway feel too busy and there’s through lush landscapes LIAT flies direct to St Kitts a near-endless menu of Above: Explore the highlands – including mighty Mt Liamuiga from Antigua and St Maarten, watersports. Try flyboarding, Right: Discover the island’s history at with connections from other kiteboarding, wakeboarding Brimstone Hill Fortress, and modern St Kitts in settlements across the island destinations in the region and paddleboarding, or go

BOOK NOW!

TOP 5 HIGHLIGHTS

1 2 3 4 5

FACTFILE MAIN CITY: BASSETERRE  AIRPORT: ROBERT L BRADSHAW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (SKB), FORMERLY GOLDEN ROCK  SIZE: 69 SQ MILES  LANGUAGE: ENGLISH  CURRENCY: EAST CARIBBEAN DOLLAR  POPULATION: 34,785  LOCAL BEER: CARIB  DISH OF THE DAY: STEWED SALTFISH WITH SPICY PLANTAINS, COCONUT DUMPLINGS AND SEASONED BREADFRUIT 

88 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

www.l

+1 (473) 444-4371 www.radisson.com/grenada Located on Grand Anse Beach Free high-speed Internet Conference Centre

January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 89

ZING LITE

SUDOKU

Fill in the game board so that the numbers 1 to 9 appear exactly once in each column, row and 3x3 box. The numbers can appear in any order and diagonals are not considered.

PUZZLE 1

4

6

1

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9

1 7

Want to give your brain a quick workout? Try our selection of puzzles to test your mastery of numbers and words. The solutions are on page 94…

5

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D M Find the following words, hidden in F either horizontal, S vertical or diagonal lines: A BOUTI QUE I CAMPI NG CANVA S I COUTU RE CRAB T CREATI VE DOMIN ICA E FAMILY FLOATI NG R HABAN ERO HEALTH Y U MONO CHROM E PLANTATION T PORTR AIT REEF U RUFFLE SANTA O SPONTANEOU S VIBES C WATER FALL

L W G G U B I Y H T L A E H P

B V N M R O S E D P V A A R E

H E I O U U E V F L F C T T V

A B P N F T Z N S A I E O E I

B A M O F I S B A N M L E Q T

A R A C L Q U U I T L I U R A

N C C H E U F M A A N L L T E

E A A R A E O R F T S O S Y R

R B F O S D J R Z I R A P L C

O S S M U B E I R O V A U S T

V R Y E I T A R S N U L O E T

G N I T A O L F A Q M E A B X

V F R W B R Z C S A N T A I Z

S I R E P O R T R A I T O V F

4

3 LETTERS

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ART

ELECT

ASH

HARSH

SEA

HEAVY

TEA

LASER

TWO

TITLE

YOU

TOUCH UNTIL

4 LETTERS

YOUTH

BOTH HAIR

7 LETTERS

HALF

ANYBODY

MYTH

IMPROVE

SLOT TYPE

90 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

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FOR S R ANSWAEGE SEE P 94

WORKED ON THE PUZZLES?

8

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KRISS KROSS

Fit the words in the list below into the correct positions on the grid:

8

1 2

WORD SEARCH

9

PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE HOME WITH YOU IT WILL GET REPLACED WITH A FRESH COPY

8

3

5

9

2

LOMB

LUZON OK ST

RAIT

AT L A N STRAI

T

B A LT I C TIC KL

IPPER

Antigua (St John’s) – Barbados (Bridgetown) Dominica (Roseau) – Dominican Republic (Manzanillo) Grenada (St Georges) – St Kitts (Basseterre) St Lucia (Castries) – St Vincent (Kingstown)

KLIPP

ER

ENJOYED THESE PAGES? TAKE THIS MAGAZINE HOME & SHARE WITH YOUR FRIENDS

ZING KIDS

the new rt a st s t’ e L ! rs e b m ti e m r e Well, shiv n! fu d re u o av -fl e at ir p e m so year with y of us hat is a pirate? Today, man es long past, associate them with tim wielding wearing eyepatches and their shoulders. cutlasses, with parrots on n and obsessed They were rough and mea ing over with stolen with treasure chests spill racy in the Caribbean booty. The main era of pi 1650 and 1720. occurred between around was a lot of trade in During this period there ts of ships carrying the area, which meant lo of pirates trying to valuable cargo – and lots still happens around steal it. However, piracy n-day pirates prowl the world today: moder ing it harder to international waters, mak bring them to justice.

W

92 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

JUST FOR LAAAAAAARRRGHS r a pirate to get How much does it cost fo n-ear! his ears pierced? A buck-a e alphabet?

Why can’t pirates learn th ars at ‘C’!

Because they can spend ye eye patch?

Why did the pirate buy an an iPad! Because he couldn’t afford with three eyes?

What do you call a pirate Piiirate!

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

Pieces of eight! 8 fun pirate facts Can you find all the words in our grid? Remember to look up, down, across and diagonally!

01

AHOY | BOUNTY | CAPTAIN | CREW FLAG | JOLLY ROGER | OCEAN | PARROT SEA DOG | SHIPWRECK |

02

J Y E G R S E T S P

06 t

03 0 O 05f

o

07 i 08

O O A A O H N O E L

H L L V K I W R A I

F U O L A P E R D N

Y E R T Y W R A O A

U T P I J R C P G E

A A N Q R E O L T C

C R R U P C J G Z O

Y O H A O K Q A E A

R L P N V B I I Z R

Mast maths = 2 รท +17= = 8 2 +

Solutions to puzzles on page 94

Can you divide, subtract, multiply and add to find the final number at the end of this sum?

Write the figures in the circles as you go along to help you work out the answer...

End Solve the clues to complete our word puzzle!

Start

11

= 8 รท

-6= January - February 2020 | www.liat.com

x 2 =

ACROSS 1 Riches that pirates want to get hold of (8) 6 Manages (5) 7 Assesses performance (5) 8 Periodic movement of the sea (4) 10 Mammal related to the llama (6) 12 Permits (6) 14 Smudge (4)

5 Additional (5) 6 Curved sword associated with pirates of old (7) 8 Jack ___ : main character in Pirates of the Caribbean films (7) 11 Ten plus two (6) DOWN 13 Not tight (5) 2 Swift (5) 15 Word or words 3 Too; in addition (4) in a song (5) 4 Open out or 16 One of the unfurl (6) continents (4) 17 Small seat (5) 18 Tiny mammal resembling a mouse (5) 19 What a pirate typically wears over part of their face (8)

ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 93

Advertisers

INDEX When contacting our advertisers, please tell them you saw their advertisement in ZiNG Caribbean

Angostura Bitters 59 Antigua Sailing Week 4 Barbados Tourism Inside Back Captain Bligh/St Vincent Distillers 31 Caribbean Alliance 1 Caribbean Line 2-3 CS Global Partners Outside Back Daco Worldwide 33 Delta Petroleum 21 Discover Dominica Authority 6-7 Fortress Fund Managers 17 Geest Line 91 Grenada Tourism 10 Jada Group 19 LIAT 89 & 95 Princess Hotel and Casinos Intl. Inside Front Radisson Grenada Beach Resort 89 Radisson Trinidad 71 Republic Bank 51 Rubis 31 St Kitts Music Festival 15 Sol Petroleum 23 Solar Dynamics 71 Southern Medical Clinic 19 Structural Systems 23

SOLUTION TO SUDOKU PUZZLE 1 PAGE 90

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SOLUTION TO WORD SEARCH PAGE 90

To promote your company to LIAT’s readers, contact lara@zingmag.net

94 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

SOLUTION TO KRISS KROSS PAGE 90

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SOLUTION TO MAST MATHS PAGE 93

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SOLUTION TO WORD SEARCH PAGE 93

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SOLUTION TO SUDOKU PUZZLE 2 PAGE 90

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SOLUTION TO OUR CROSSWORD PAGE 93

R L P N V B I I Z R

www.liat.com | January - February 2020

LIFESTYLE: JAMES FULLER

I

remember the first time I met Elsie, who was on her doorstep, as she greeted a naïve English lad fresh from the airport many years ago. “Welcome Jayyyymes, I’m Elsie Gopaul. Welcome to my home and to Trinidad.

I hope you’ll be very happy here.”

‘A character’ is how many describe her. I’ve been writing this column for the better part of ten years and, as this will be my last, it feels appropriate to write about someone who became a big part of my love for the Caribbean. We should all take time to celebrate the characters in our lives – those special, ordinary people who make life and its passing more meaningful and enjoyable. So Elsie, this one’s for you.

It became apparent to me early on that dance, mango and family were central to my future mother-in-law’s life, even if her love affair with dance wasn’t immediately reciprocated.

At the Christmas prize-giving following one formative year of dance, she was awarded the ambiguously titled trophy of ‘Most Persistent’.

Widowed at an early age and left with four daughters to raise, Elsie had suffered misfortunes, but still her default was fun. You weren’t long into a chat with Elsie before you were laughing at one of life’s absurdities.

“Oh my gosh Jaymes, I remember ah nex’ story from when I was small,” Elsie recounted as we sat on her porch. “I remember this one time when my father had bought a cattle. It was raining and I had to go move it from one spot to the nex’. As I untie the rope, the cattle started to pull and run. Well, my foot get tangle up in de rope, and it drag meeee.” Elsie turned to me with a look of utter horror, hand to mouth. “Oh how it drag meeee Jayyyymmmmes, on my bottom, 30, 40 feet or more.

And the place tick wid all kinda twigs and scrub...”

One of her happiest places was the garden. Every morning she would rise before dawn and be picking,

plucking, sowing and hoeing by daybreak, singing as she went. Her mango trees were a source of near obsessive pleasure. Like a mother hears her baby’s cry above all else, so Elsie could discern the thud of a fallen Julie from any other noise. In the midst of an in-depth phone call about a ‘neighbour daughter problem husband’, her ear would twitch, her head turn, and in a blur she would be gone, leaving conversations hanging and callers talking to thin air. Time was of the essence, because birds coveted mango nearl uch as she did.

As newlyweds, my wife and I lived briefly with Elsie. One day, she married a conversation about how it was time we got our own place with a demonstration of how to split a coconut with a long-handled axe. She talked me through the splitting process as she threw the axe blade high and brought it down on the coconut resting on the path: “Thwack.”

Dressed in her housedress, this diminutive woman was a vision quite at odds with the lumberjack strength she displayed. The axe was nearly as big as her, but the speed and unerring accuracy with which she delivered chop after savage chop convinced me that it was indeed time to check the rental ads.

I have a picture that shows Elsie and me on the porch at her brother’s house. I’m clearly struggling to make a point, a smile breaking out on my face; Elsie is already mid-laugh – that wonderful, scandalous laugh. I have no idea what we were discussing – it scarcely matters – but it’s how I will remember her always, because I recently received a phone call bearing bad news.

“Elsie pass,” said my cousin. Two words that marked the end of a life that, for me, represented a substantial part of what I held dear about the Caribbean. She was dancing just three weeks before the end, ‘most persistently’ I like to think. ●

The

GOOD PEOPLE in life

Living lif

“WE SHOULD ALL TAKE TIME TO CELEBRATE THE CHARACTERS IN OUR LIVES – THOSE SPECIAL, ORDINARY PEOPLE THAT MAKE LIFE AND ITS PASSING MORE MEANINGFUL AND ENJOYABLE” 96 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN

www.liat.com | January - February 2020