Carinena reprints

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IN THE PRESS

2018


November 22, 2018 Circulation 5,000

November 2018 Wine Review James Melendez McPherson Texas Les Copains Red Wine 2015 A Rhône blend of Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah, An outstanding Rhône blend–integrated and balanced; one of the best Rhône blends I have tasted from Texas. Nose: rich black-red bramble notes, red rose petal, pepper and Thyme-Tarragon Palate: blackberry confit, black cherry evened out with Cardamom and an Allspice. **** Domaine Bousquet Tupungato Uco Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Nose: of Loch Ness blackberry, red cherry, boot polish, and juniper forest. Palate: cassis, black cherry, black pepper, and clove. **** Domaine Bousquet Tupungato Uco Valley Chardonnay 2017 Nose of Green apple, pear, dried fig, and spice. Palate of citrus, apple slice, nutmeg, and flowers. **** Susana Balbo Brioso Argelo Red Wine 2016 $45 SRP / 13.5% ABV Cabernet Sauvignon 53%, Cabernet Franc 24%, Malbec 16%, and Petit Verdot 7% Nose: blackberry thicket, sanded cedar, violets, and herb bunch Palate: rich blackberry, white pepper, hint of lavender and Bay leaf **** BenMarco Valle de Uco Expresivo Red Wine 2016 $35 SRP/ 13.5% ABV 91 Points 75% Malbec, 25% Cabernet Franc. Nose of rose petal, blackberry, autumnal leaves on ground, suede. Palate – blue-blackberry, black pepper, Tarragon and clove **** Toccat Santa Barbara County Classico Red Wine 2015 50% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, Cabernet Franc 5%, Petit Verdot 5%, and 5% other varieties including Freisa Nose of autumnal plum orchard, suede, dried roses and spice box. Palate of tart red cherry, blackberry, hint of bread crumb for savory quality, pepper and flowers **** Château Gaudiet Loupiac 2016 90% Sémillion, 10% Sauvignon Noise: fresh citrus, dried pear, and honeycomb Pal: blood orange, ginger, lavender, and dried apples, ****


Baileyana Firepeak Edna Valley Chardonnay 2016 Clones: 17, 76 utilised; Fermented in 29% new French oak; 14.7% ABV; $28 SRP. Nose: Apple, concise pear, nutmeg, and flowers Palate: Hierloom apple, Adriatic fig, spice and beeswax This is a SIPCertified wine. **** Finca Las Cabras Rioja Crianza 2012 Nose of blackberry confit, suede, stacked cedar wood, and Bay leafs on forest floor Palate of red bramble notes, uplift of dried herbs, white pepper and ever so subtle violet notes **** BenMarco Uco Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 Nose: mix of red and black bramble, moist forest floor, leather-suede and violet garen Palate: black cherry, pomegranate, pepper, and Thyme **** Paniza Cariñena Syrah 2017

Nose of blackberry, seared cherry, evergreen forest in autumn, and lavendar Palate: blackberry confit, pepper, Thyme and violets **** 3C Cariñena Cariñena 2016


Nose: Cherry confit, suede, forest in autumn, and violets Palate: red cherry, pomegranate, pepper, and toffee **** Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Blanc Côtes du Roussillon: Grenache Gris and Rolle Nose of lemon peel, flowers, almond Palate: white peach, red apple, sesame, moist stones **** St. Michael-Eppan Alto Adige/Südtirol Gewürztraminer 2017 Appreciably dry Gewürztraminer to pair with a wide array of foods–Thai, Mexican, Vietnamese. Nose of dried apples, pear, Gardenia, and spice rack, Palate of Granny Smith apple, nutmeg, and flowers. **** Mas Amiel Altair Côtes du Roussillon Blanc 2015 A blend of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Maccabeu. A lovely expression of the Côtes du Roussillon–elegance and beauty. Ideal for seafood and white pasta dishes. Nose: Green-yellow citrus, white peach, flowers and moist stones Palate of oyster shell, Meyer lemon pulp, flowers and beeswax. **** Aridus American Sauvignon Blanc 2016 I think this is a great wine to taste a difference in where Sauvignon Blanc is grown–in this bottling contains grapes from Southern Arizona and Mimbres Valley in New Mexico. Nose of citrus, yellow peach, floral, and tea. Palate of yellow citrus zest, hint of stone fruit and slightly savory finish ****


November 17, 2018 Circulation: 675,940

3 Red Wines to Pair with Your Thanksgiving By Hvwinegoddess When I think of Thanksgiving wine I usually think of white or Pinot Noir, but recently I’ve begun to think outside of the box. I’m getting bored with the originals. Don’t get me wrong, I love my Pinot Noir and Chardonnay but I like to try wines that are different, perhaps a new grape to me, new region or country and see where they fit with my pairings.I got introduced to the Cariñena region recently during #Winestudio where we tasted through their Granacha. But did you know that Cariñena is a region as well as a grape? That grape makes a great wine for your Thanksgiving table. It’s light bodied, smooth tannins with flavors of red and black fruit. The Region D.O.P Cariñena is located in the heart of the Ebro Valley in the northeast region of Aragon. The Pyrenees region and France are to the north and the Catalunya region is to the east. The vineyards are planted at high altitudes between 1,300 feet and 2,600 feet. The Grape Cariñena as it’s know in Span is known as Carignan in France and other parts of the world. It is a black skinned native to the Aragon region of Spain. The grape grows as a bush vine and is hand harvested. As a late ripening grape it prefers a warm and dry climate. The flavor characteristics of this grape tend to be dark red and black fruits, spice, licorice, pepper and earthy flavors. The Wine Paniza Cariñena 2016 100% Cariñena grapes fermented in stainless steel tanks. Nice ruby red in color and light on your palate. Flavors of red raspberry, hint of cranberry and spice. 3C Cariñena 2016 Grandes VinosSourced from 45 year old vines this wine had nice acidity and light soft tannins. Light bodied, layered black and red fruit with a burst of blackberry and spice on the finish fading with a tingling of acidity. Particular Cariñena 2016 Bodegas San ValeroAromas of blackberry, plum, ripe red berry and anise lead to a smooth soft palate, nice acidity with red fruit and red licorice on the finish.Any or all three of these red wines will go great with your Thanksgiving meal.


November 15, 2018 Circulation: 5,000

3 Red Wines to Pair with your Thanksgiving By Debbie Gioquindo When I think of Thanksgiving wine I usually think of white or Pinot Noir, but recently I’ve begun to think outside of the box. I’m getting bored with the originals. Don’t get me wrong, I love my Pinot Noir and Chardonnay but I like to try wines that are different, perhaps a new grape to me, new region or country and see where they fit with my pairings. I got introduced to the Cariñena region recently during #Winestudio where we tasted through their Granacha. But did you know that Cariñena is a region as well as a grape? That grape makes a great wine for your Thanksgiving table. It’s light bodied, smooth tannins with flavors of red and black fruit. The Region D.O.P Cariñena is located in the heart of the Ebro Valley in the northeast region of Aragon. The Pyrenees region and France are to the north and the Catalunya region is to the east. The vineyards are planted at high altitudes between 1,300 feet and 2,600 feet. The Grape Cariñena as it’s know in Span is known as Carignan in France and other parts of the world. It is a black skinned native to the Aragon region of Spain. The grape grows as a bush vine and is hand harvested. As a late ripening grape it prefers a warm and dry climate. The flavor characteristics of this grape tend to be dark red and black fruits, spice, licorice, pepper and earthy flavors. The Wine Paniza Cariñena 2016 100% Cariñena grapes fermented in stainless steel tanks. Nice ruby red in color and light on your palate. Flavors of red raspberry, hint of cranberry and spice. 3C Cariñena 2016 Grandes Vinos Sourced from 45 year old vines this wine had nice acidity and light soft tannins. Light bodied, layered black and red fruit with a burst of blackberry and spice on the finish fading with a tingling of acidity. Particular Cariñena 2016 Bodegas San Valero Aromas of blackberry, plum, ripe red berry and anise lead to a smooth soft palate, nice acidity with red fruit and red licorice on the finish. Any or all three of these red wines will go great with your Thanksgiving meal.


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Thursday, November 15, 2018 WORCESTER, MA 22,664 (7) Newspaper (D) 7 Go! Bodegas San Valero

OFF THE VINE

Drinlc wine from a sippy cup? Blasphemy! AIVuona f you're a true wine lover, I here's one hard and fast rule that you should follow: Never, ever drink wine from a sippy cup. Why am I so worked up about this? Because it drives me utterly insane to know that some people find it perfectly acceptable to drink good wine from plastic cups, a child's sippy cup no less. In my opinion, this diminishes the entire wine-drinking experience. Friends and relatives often ask advice about wine and I'm happy to oblige in any way I can. Rarely if at all do these same people ever bother to ask about the proper glass­ ware to use, as if it doesn't matter, which by the way it does. This became an issue recently when my next-door neighbor Dave purchased some very nice wines and then proceeded to drink one of those same wines from a sippy cup - that's right, a toddler's sippy cup. I couldn't believe my eyes. Here was a rather knowledgeable wine lover doing the unimaginable. It seems all his glassware had suddenly vanished and the sippy cup was the only thing close at hand. To make

matters worse, his youngest child just started college so the days of the sippy cup had certainly come and gone. By the way, the wine, a 2016 vintage Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet, with a sug­ gested retail of about $65, is a terrific wine, one that deserves better than a plas­ tic cup. What on earth was he thinking? Like a sleuth I immediately opened the dishwasher looking for glassware. As I suspected, he was just being lazy - right there before my very eyes were several long-stem wineglasses that simply need a quick washing. If my suspicions are cor­ rect, this wasn't the first time he's used that sippy cup to drink wine. By now many of you are probably asking, What business is it of yours? To be honest, it isn't. But the man has been an avid wine lover for years now and certainly knows that in order to enhance the overall drinking experience, one must have proper stemware. In a properly designed glass, the wine's aromas are released as the alcohol volatilizes from the sur­ face of the wine. In addi­ tion, the shape of the bowl helps to enhance both the aroma and flavor by releas­ ing various compounds and nuances, all of which are readily detected on one's palate. Plastic, on the other hand, may impart flavors

that leave you with a rather negative opinion of the wine. So as you can see, using the proper glassware is a must when it comes to drinking wine. And no, it doesn't have to be extremely expensive hand-blown crystal; a wellmade, everyday set of glass stemware will do the trick. In fact, Dave owns several stemmed wine glasses by Riedel, a well-respected Austrian glassmaker. For those of you who are not familiar, Riedel has been making quality wine glasses since 1756, so they know something about glass. Today the company is still run by the same family, where their motto is "The pleasure of consuming wine starts with the proper glass." I couldn't agree more. As for Dave, he promises never to use a sippy cup again. I suspect what he really means is that he hopes never to be caught again. In the meantime, if you don't have proper wine glasses, treat yourself to a set - you'll thank me later. Cheers! Wine of the Week: Bodegas San Valero, 2016 Particular Carinena, Spain. Deep red in color with aromas of ripe fruits and spice. Good acid­ ity and structure with ripe red fruit flavors. Mediumbodied and well-balanced with a surprisingly long, flavorful finish. $IO

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November 15, 2018 Circulation: 1,110,000

Off the Vine: Drink wine from a sippy cup? Blasphemy! By Al Vuona If you’re a true wine lover, here’s one hard and fast rule that you should follow: Never, ever drink wine from a sippy cup. Why am I so worked up about this? Because it drives me utterly insane to know that some people find it perfectly acceptable to drink good wine from plastic cups, a child’s sippy cup no less. In my opinion, this diminishes the entire wine-drinking experience. Friends and relatives often ask advice about wine and I’m happy to oblige in any way I can. Rarely if at all do these same people ever bother to ask about the proper glassware to use, as if it doesn’t matter, which by the way it does. This became an issue recently when my next-door neighbor Dave purchased some very nice wines and then proceeded to drink one of those same wines from a sippy cup - that’s right, a toddler’s sippy cup. I couldn’t believe my eyes. Here was a rather knowledgeable wine lover doing the unimaginable. It seems all his glassware had suddenly vanished and the sippy cup was the only thing close at hand. To make matters worse, his youngest child just started college so the days of the sippy cup had certainly come and gone. By the way, the wine, a 2016 vintage Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet, with a suggested retail of about $65, is a terrific wine, one that deserves better than a plastic cup. What on earth was he thinking? Like a sleuth I immediately opened the dishwasher looking for glassware. As I suspected, he was just being lazy - right there before my very eyes were several long-stem wineglasses that simply need a quick washing. If my suspicions are correct, this wasn’t the first time he’s used that sippy cup to drink wine. By now many of you are probably asking, What business is it of yours? To be honest, it isn’t. But the man has been an avid wine lover for years now and certainly knows that in order to enhance the overall drinking experience, one must have proper stemware. In a properly designed glass, the wine’s aromas are released as the alcohol volatilizes from the surface of the wine. In addition, the shape of the bowl helps to enhance both the aroma and flavor by releasing various compounds and nuances, all of which are readily detected on one’s palate. Plastic, on the other hand, may impart flavors that leave you with a rather negative opinion of the wine. So as you can see, using the proper glassware is a must when it comes to drinking wine. And no, it doesn’t have to be extremely expensive hand-blown crystal; a well-made, everyday set of glass stemware will do the trick. In fact, Dave owns several stemmed wine glasses by Riedel, a well-respected Austrian glassmaker. For those of you who are not familiar, Riedel has been making quality wine glasses since 1756, so they know something about glass. Today the company is still run by the same family, where their motto is “The pleasure of consuming wine starts with the proper glass.” I couldn’t agree more.


As for Dave, he promises never to use a sippy cup again. I suspect what he really means is that he hopes never to be caught again. In the meantime, if you don’t have proper wine glasses, treat yourself to a set you’ll thank me later. Cheers! Wine of the Week: Bodegas San Valero, 2016 Particular Carinena, Spain. Deep red in color with aromas of ripe fruits and spice. Good acidity and structure with ripe red fruit flavors. Medium-bodied and wellbalanced with a surprisingly long, flavorful finish. $10




#CoolDownWithCarinena

September 24, 2018 Circulation: 5,000

84 Bodegas Paniza 2017 Viura & Chardonnay Agostón Cariñena12.5% Named for the sturdy-looking wild boar on the yellow-green and black label, this light white’s packaging isn’t suggesting that you eat boar with this wine, but rather informing you of what the local boars prefer in the vineyard: Viura and Chardonnay. The idea definitely translates into the wine with its forward, youthful grapiness and crisp-sweet appeal of super pure flavors. It tastes of cantaloupe, honeydew melon and Thompson Seedless grapes with a suspicion of sweetness on the attack followed by a fresh and fast finish. Served ice cold on a boiling hot day, this will offer broad appeal. Drink: Through 2018 87 Grandes Vinos y Viñedos 2017 Garnacha Blanca Corona d’Aragon Cariñena 12.5% This is a lovely expression of Garnacha Blanca with a vaguely floral nose sitting atop sublimely pure fruit flavors of Canary melon, white peach and green apple. Svelte on the attack with a lightly creamy sensation, this wine’s gentle acidity gracefully disappears into its seamless structure. This wine’s rather light body is almost betrayed by its pleasantly expansive palate feel. There’s a bit of pleasantly pithy tangerine peel on the moderate finish. This was closed and confected when I first opened it (possibly due to its synthetic cork?) yesterday evening, but today at noon it’s roaring at full blast, having been stored overnight in the fridge with just a stopper in the bottle. Drink: 2018-19 87 Bodegas San Valero 2016 Garnacha Rosado Origium Cariñena 12.5% Brightly colored, fully dry and plump with flavor, this wine is a crowd-pleaser. Strawberries, blueberries and sweet and savory spices crowd onto the palate, which is round, supple and easy. Everything is smartly integrated. There’s lovely vinosity backed-up with good refreshment and delightful moreish-ness. This is the kind of rosé I adore, and it’s a plus that the wine is much less expensive than many of the less interesting, pale, leesy and vaguely ripe pinks that are so sadly prevalent today. Drink: 2018-19


September 21,2018 Circulation: 199,070

11 Grenaches to Bring in Autumn The leaves are starting to transition to the yellows and oranges of autumn, and cooling temperature means it’s time to start reaching for red wines again. While we think they should be enjoyed all year, there’s no denying nothing quite pairs with a crisp fall day like a glass of red, especially if it’s a glass of Grenache. This grape is produced all over the world. It’s the leading red in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France, yet its origins are in Spain where it’s called Garnacha. But no matter where it’s produced, when you grab a bottle of Grenache you can expect a wine with moderate acidity and full of ripe fruit flavors like deep raspberry or strawberry. So from Spain, France, Australia, South Africa and the U.S., here are some of our favorite bottles to start the fall off right. Bodegas Paniza 2016 Garnacha (Cariñena); $13, 87 points. Red-berry aromas are basic but fresh, with minimal concentration. A plump juicy palate ranks as healthy, while raspberry and red-plum flavors are not too serious or intense. A fresh steady finish wraps up this pulpy Garnacha. Vinaio Imports. —M.S.


September 21, 2018 Circulation 10,000

Grenache Day: What's in Your Glass? Brianne Cohen Disclaimer: These wines were received as samples for review Did you know that today is Miniature Golf Day, National Chai Day, World Peace Day, AND International Grenache Day? I didn't think so. Just about every day of the year has some sort of "holiday" attached to it. You can Google the date and find out what random and obscure holiday is celebrated that day. Most of these "holidays" are no more than a ploy to get people to consume and buy stuff. The same goes for wine days. Throughout the year we celebrate different wine grapes, regions, and styles by giving the day a name. Yes, these holidays are created by regional marketing associations and PR firms. BUT, I will say that it does give consumers a chance to step outside of their wine comfort zone and try something new! Being that today is International Grenache Day, why not go to your local wine shop after work and pick up a bottle of Grenache/Garnacha to enjoy this Friday night? It's a perfect excuse to jazz up your Friday night and "Up Your Wine Game". Have you tried a Grenache before? Here are some basic facts about Grenache that you may not know. Grenache is a red grape that makes a wine that (as a general rule) is on the lighter side in terms of body, tannins, and acidity. Grenache can be used to make both red wines and rosé wines. There is also a variety called Grenache/Garnacha Blanca that is used to make a white wine. Don’t think of this wine as “wimpy”. Grenache can be bold and spicy and is a fabulous wine to go with grilled meats. Common aromas and flavors found in Grenache include red, sometimes candied, fruit such as strawberry and raspberry; also spice such as clove, white pepper, and cinnamon. Grenache grows well in warm climates and can be found in places like: Spain (Cariñena, Priorat, Rioja), France (Languedoc-Roussillon, the Rhone, Provence), California, and Australia. It is even called Cannonau in Sardinia. Grenache is originally from Spain where it is known as Garnacha. It is the predominant grape in DOP Cariñena, in the northern Aragón region. What makes Grenache such a unique wine is its versatility. It is a great varietal wine (meaning a wine that is named after the dominant grape variety), but also is a good partner in blends to add spice or to soften the acid or tannins of the partner variety. The other great thing about Grenache is that there are so many value priced Grenaches of incredible quality. You don’t have to spend a ton to get good wine. Fun fact: All that #roséallday #rosébae you’ve been drinking is predominantly Grenache. That’s right: Grenache is one of the most popular grapes vinified as a rosé. See, you’ve been drinking Grenache, loving it, and you didn’t even know it! Do me this favor: walk into your local wine shop and ask the salesperson to help you find a good Grenache for under $20/bottle. You will thank me later! Here are a couple Spanish Grenache wines I'm drinking today for International Grenache Day. Corona de Aragòn White Garnacha 2017 (12.5% ABV) This wine is from the Cariñena appellation in Spain. There is also 13% Chardonnay blended in. The wine is pale lemon in color. On the nose I get citrus (lemon), green fruit (pear). Very primary and fresh. A youthful wine. On the palate I get a marked salinity, as well as the same primary fruit notes. The wine has medium -acid, medium body, medium + flavor intensity, and a medium + finish that lingers. This wine is vibrant. It's fun and lively and is a GREAT alternative to the usual white wine suspects: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Grigio.


Origium Garnacha Rosé 2016 (12.5% ABV) This wine is a medium, bright pink color. The notes here are wholly primary, both on the nose and on the palate. Red fruit abounds: cherry, strawberry, and raspberry. There is a faint floral note: perhaps rose petals? This wine is bright and juicy. Everything you want in a rosé. And this ain't no delicate, pale rosé from Provence. This wine is BRIGHT pink and can really stand up to food. Think grilled seafood, or a salad with grilled chicken. I would be a nice companion to most summer fare.


September 18, 2018 Circulation: 5,000

Cariñena; A Region to Watch By Dracaena Wines A Region Worthy of Kings Ferdinand I was King of Aragon from 1412 until his death in 1416. After taking control of the Granadine fortress Antequera, Ferdinand solidified his election to the throne of Aragon, which was vacant due to the death of King Martin in 1412. In 1415, he declared by royal proclamation that Cariñena wines were “above all others.” Over 100 years later, another king, King Philip II of Spain, came to visit and was welcomed with the wines of Cariñena, initiating it as a region to watch even centuries ago. Cariñena; Place and Grape Consumption of wine in Cariñena has been occurring since the 3rd century BC, when the region was known as Carae. Since then, the region’s name and drinking styles may have changed (they drank wine with honey back then), but the focus on wine has not. The Cariñena Denominación de Origen (DO), situated about halfway between Madrid and Barcelona, was created in 1932 making it one of the oldest protected wine regions in Europe. Vineyards with the Cariñena region range from 400m(~1300 feet) above sea level to about 800m (~2600 feet) in the Sierra de la Virgen mountains. Of the four DOs located in the region of Aragón, Cariñena is the largest. Cariñena DO is in the northeast region of the country, and is not only the geographical name, but also the grape itself. Possibly more commonly known as Carignan, Cariñena is no longer the most planted grape in the region. That honor is now held by Garnacha, which is believed to also have its origins in this region.

As would be expected, the major industry in Cariñena is wine. There are several local cooperative wineries that consist of approximately 1,540 growers. Although known for its exceptional red blends, the region is becoming more recognized for its single-varietal Garnacha wines. The extreme diurnal shifts, variations in altitude and dry winds create a trifecta that provides exceptional growing conditions for the Garnacha grape, allotting for approximately 32% of the plantings.


Cariñena Has White and Rosé Also! A region that shares its name with a grape itself would lend you to believe that is all they produce, however, 20% of the vineyards are planted with white varieties such as Chardonnay, Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo, Moscatel de Alejandría, and Parellada. Rosé wines can be produced with any of the approved red varieties, including Cariñena, Garnacha, Tempranillo, and Syrah. The Wineries The bulk of the wines produced in Cariñena is done so by three main cooperatives; Bodegas Paniza, Bodegas San Valero, and Grandes Vinos y Viñedos. Through sustainable winemaking and variation of fermentation vessels such as amphorae, cement vats and French oak puncheons, the members of these coops are working hard to prove their commitment to quality. Monasterio de las Viñas is one such wine that is produced by one of the more prominent collectives, Grandes Vinos. Founded in 1997, the cooperative has connections with many vineyards within the 14 growing areas of the D.O.P. The five winery partners that make up Grandes Vinos, work under a single technical team to maintain a consistent wine philosophy. The vineyards’ altitude ranges from 1,000 to 2,800 feet and are mostly dedicated to Garnacha. In the 11th century, Cistercian monks built a monastery in a unique area of the Sierra de Aguarón. With the passing of the years and their harvests, their fame spread throughout the world, it is unknown if this was because of their spirituality or because of the quality of the wine they produced. Today, as a tribute to that famous Monasterio de las Viñas, of which only a few stones remain, using traditional varieties of the zone, mainly indigenous, it is produced one of the Spanish brands with the greatest international presence, with vineyards coming entirely from the Aguarón zone, one of the highest zones with the best quality of the Cariñena Protected Wine Apellation.(regiontowatch.com) With the longest history in Cariñena, Grupo BSV (Bodegas San Valero) has been producing wine since 1944. Combining old traditions with new technology, they source their fruit from over 8,600 acres and work with 700 growers within the cooperative. Minimal intervention is the key to working the 100% estate vineyards under the Bodega San Volera label. 25% of the plantings are Garnacha, with 20% of that being classified as “old vines,” ranging between 30 and 100 years old. Bodegas Paniza is located in the Zarogoza (Paniza) region of Cariñena and opened their doors in 1953. A group of producers within Paniza joined the Nuestra Señora del Águila Cooperative (Our Lady of the Eagle) in order to better market their grapes and wine. The turning point occurred in 1982, when the cooperative purchased machinery to allow for more modern practices and continued their expansion in 1996 with a new winery building and have continued to advance since. Their fruit is harvested from about 2800 hectares at about 850 meters above sea level.


The Wines 2014 Monasterio de las ViĂąas Gran Reserva (SRP: $18) Grandes Vinos

2017 Particular Garnacha (SRP: $10) Bodega San Volero

2017 Corona D Aragon Garnacha RosĂŠ (SRP: $6) Grandes Vinos


2017 Particular Chardonnay (SRP: $10) Bodega San Volero

2016 Paniza Viura (SRP: $9) Bodegas Paniza


September 11, 2018 Circulation 10,120,000.

52 Wines in 52 Weeks: Welcome to Planet Chardonnay Amy Glynn

Corona de Aragon Macabeo-Chardonnay (Aragon, Spain $10) Bright lemon-drop tone, great acidity in the “mouthwatering” range. Palate tends toward lemon, lime and pineapple. Don’t age this one. Crack it open with Thai takeout. Bodegas San Valero Particular Chardonnay (Carinena, Spain $10) A “centrist” Chard, neither pronouncedly austere nor pronouncedly voluptuous. Modest, moderate, and for this, potentially a crowdpleaser at parties and less of a specialist’s bevvie. Decent acidity. Array of citrus-peel and green melon aromatics and flavors. Medium finish. Agoston Viura and Chardonnay (Carinena, Spain $13) This wine is technically under 50% Chard; there’s a Viura majority, but I couldn’t leave it out just because it is so fun and tasty. Chardonnay has a tendency to be a bit on the heavy and serious side but this is a great example of an expression where it’s youthful and cute-also proof that it plays well with others and not just in Champagne. Greenish hue, crystalline minerality, jasmine and lemon nose, lime and melon on the palate. A little residual sugar so if you like them a bit on the sweet side, you’re in luck.


September 9, 2018 Circulation 5000

San Valero ‘Origium 1944’ Garnacha Cariñena 2016 Cara Rutherford

Winery: Located in the Cariñena region of northern Spain, the San Valero Cooperative was founded in 1944 [making it the oldest winery in Cariñena] by 60 growers who at the time were producing bulk wines. Today the cooperative consists of more than 700 members that cultivate 3500 hectares of vineyards located between the rivers Huerva and Jalón. They focus on producing high quality wines using modern technology. Tasting Notes: Bright ruby red in colour with aromas of strawberry, raspberry, cherry and chalk minerals. Super fruity with fresh raspberry, strawberry and cherry glossed by citrus acidity. A streak of chalk minerality runs thru to the dry fruity finish. Refreshing and gluggable, great on its own, easy to pair with a wide variety of dishes, from snacks and appetizers to simple dishes like every day pastas and pizza. [Paired with raw cow’s milk Emmentaler, traditional mustard, and multi-grain pretzels.] 100% Garnacha Cariñena Spain 12.5% Alcohol $10 [average price] Enjoy now Sample submitted for editorial consideration.


Dave Nershi

August 29, 2018 Circulation 11,110

Cariñena A Spanish Region To Watch

Planted at high altitude, the vineyards of Cariñena descend into dramatic windswept plains with extreme day-to-night temperature swings, ideal conditions for rich, expressive wines. On A Spanish Train Somehow I missed it. As my train rumbled along the tracks from Logroño to Barcelona, I rode right past Cariñena. Cariñena is located in the heart of the Ebro Valley in Spain’s northeast region of Aragón. It’s history dates to 50 BC, but it is the future that has winemakers in the region excited. Never Miss A Beat – Follow Vino-Sphere On Facebook Tucked between two of Spain’s highest profile wine regions (Rioja and Priorat), it might be easy to overlook Cariñena. To do so would mean missing a growing assortment of well-crafted and interesting wines. Wine lovers might also be confused by the region’s name. Cariñena gave its moniker to the grape of the same name (known elsewhere as Carignan). Today, though, there is hardly any Carignan planted. You’ll find instead whites from Viura and reds from Tempranillo and Garnacha. A Royal History Cariñena has been attracting attention for centuries. In 1415, King Ferdinand I of Aragon declared his preference for Cariñena wine above all others. In 1585, King Phillip II of Spain was welcomed to the town with “free flowing fountains of wine.” I’m sorry I wasn’t there! In the 1860s, 90% of European vineyards were wiped out by phylloxera, an insect that destroyed the roots of grapevines. Cariñena was largely spared and became a destination for winemakers vacating decimated areas. In 1909 King Alfonso XIII of Spain granted Cariñena a city charter for their winegrowers’ role in helping European vineyards recover from the phylloxera blight.


Our journey of discovery began with three bottles of Cariñena wine from the 2017 vintage. We tasted the Paniza Viura Chardonnay, Particular Garnacha Rosé and the Corona de Aragon Garnacha Blanca. Tale Of The Grapes The Cariñena wines weren’t what we expected. I say that in a good way. First, I expected red wines. The region has been promoting Garnacha (known in other parts as Grenache) as its signature grape. Two of the bottles were Garnacha, but one was a rosé and the other a white Garnacha. Interesting indeed! Check out our reports on more than 200 wineries We opened the Particular Garnacha Rosé on a particularly steamy hot day. I enjoy Spanish rosé as it has a bit more heft than the typical Provence rosé. The Particular rosé is pale pink in color with nice floral aromas. On the palate there are fresh berry and mineral notes. At 12.5% ABV, this is a lighter wine that is friendly with a variety of dishes including rice, pasta and light meat dishes – as well as being great on its own. My wife is an ABC person – Anything But Chardonnay that is. Disregarding that, I popped open the Paniza Viura Chardonnay blend. Viura, also known as Macabeo, is the most widely grown white grape in northern Spain. In many cases, Viura is very ordinary tasting, light in body and acidic. However, paired with Chardonnay in this 50-50 blend, it works wonders. The Chardonnay, finished in stainless steel, adds a depth of flavor. The Viura creates a different flavor profile when added to the Chardonnay. There are nice green apple notes and some tropical fruit too. Great for seafood and tapas. The Corona de Aragon Garnacha Blanca was part of a wine dinner for which we were joined by out of town guests. The summer heat was unbearable, so we tried to keep everything light. To pair with the Garnacha we served a garden fresh Gazpacho topped with Collard Micro-Greens with Bell Pepper Focaccia. Of the four (or was it six?) bottles we served that night, the Garnacha Blanca was the favorite. We had arranged a different white to pair with our Potato & Wild Salmon Cakes with Ginger, Scallions and Dill Sauce – but our guests kept wanting to go back to the Garnacha Blanca until the bottle was dry. The Garnacha Blanca has 13% Chardonnay and is pale yellow in color. The wine has more body than you may expect from a white wine with flavorings of lime and peach and aromas of white blossoms. Cariñena is a wine region on the move. We expect to see more and more Cariñena wines on the shelves. The wines we tasted are fresh and invigorating – just the thing for an evening of entertaining or a special meal with friends and family. Full Disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.


August 23, 2018 Circulation 5000

Grandes Vinos y Viñedos ‘Corona de Aragon’ Garnacha Blanca Cariñena 2017 Cara Rutherford

Estate: Grandes Vinos y Viñedos is located in the heart of Cariñena, the vineyards are spread across 14 towns in the region at the bottom of the Algairén and Pecos mountain ranges. The estate is “committed to combining environmental protection with the best quality possible of wine production”. Environmental preservation methods as rainfall irrigation and solar energy have led them to become a leader in the region for environmental research and innovation. Philosophy: The “wines are produced based on three fundamental aspects that form the essence of each one of them: the land, the climate and the variety”. Winemaking: Garnacha grapes are from vines 5 years in age at 650 meters in elevation, Chardonnay from vines 25 years old at 450 meters. Tasting Notes: Pale gold in colour with aromas of honeysuckle, pear and white pepper. Green apple, pear and orange blossom are accented by fresh citrus acidity, finishing dry and crisp. A refreshing, summery sip, great on its own and super versatile at the table. [Paired with homemade cannelli bean/quinoa/cheddar/jalapeño veggie burgers with guacamole.] Pairing Suggestion from the Winery: Perfect pairing with vegetables, rice and pasta, also with seafood and Asian cuisine. 87% White Garnacha, 13% Chardonnay Cariñena Spain Bottled by Grandes Vinos y Viñedos 12.5% Alcohol $10 [average price] Enjoy now


August 20, 2018 Circulation 5000

Origium Rosé from Cariñena, Spain | 2016 Garnacha Rosé Bodegas San Valero a Versatile Wine

Another perfect wine and food pairing. Part of the discussion I have with guests, is how palates change over time. Mine certainly has. This year I've noticed that once again, I am enjoying Rosé more and more. I also share with my guests that a good food pairing will elevate both the food and the wine. Alone they are good, but enjoyed together, they can be so much more. Today I am sharing how well I enjoyed the Origium 2016 Garnacha Rosé by Bodegas San Valero. It was good, but was especially enjoyable with food. And it reinforced my viewpoint about elevated wine and food pairings. So very pleased with this wine and the dinner I prepared. Cariñena is the second Denomination of Origin (D.O.) of Spain. The regional capital, Zaragoza, is halfway between Madrid and Barcelona and just two hours from France. The climate is continental, Grenache, Tempranillo, and Macabeo are the predominant varieties grown, along with the indigenous Cariñena variety. Also grown are Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Note: Cariñena is the home of the Cariñena grape (Carignan); it is likely the genetic home of Garnacha too. Note: The Cariñena region has more old vines of Garnacha planted than any other region in Spain, with over 1,600 growers. Bodegas San Valero was founded in 1944 by 60 winegrowers from the Cariñena region of Spain who mainly made bulk wine. Details on this vintage are sparse, but does not matter to me since I thoroughly enjoyed this bottle. When you see this wine, buy it!


Preparing dinner while sipping Origium 2016 Garnacha Rosé. Tasting Notes Color: Medium candy red. Nose: Fresh rain, smoky cherry, rose petals, orange pith. Medium minus intensity. Palate: Bright cherry, strawberry, creamy, medium body, tart edged, orange pith, very dry, textured, medium finish. Medium intensity. Day two: Nope. Finished the bottle with dinner.

Beautifully paired with fried pork chops and spinach salad. Thoughts: This 2016 Garnacha Rosé wine did not survive dinner. We drank every last drop. I see no reason to eat out, when I can make a dinner like this at home. This wine was fabulous with breaded fried pork chops, and spinach salad with crumbled bacon and mustard dressing. A truly wonderful food wine, which put me in my happy place. Yes, it was fine alone as a sipping wine, but with food this wine was so much more enjoyable. Big smile. Recommended for drinking. Strongly Recommended for food. Country: Spain Region: Cariñena Variety: Grenache ABV: 12.5% Closure: Aglomerated Cork Sample provided by winery SRP: $10 www.sanvalero.com BODEGAS SAN VALERO S. COOP. Ctra. Nacional 330, km 450 50400 Cariñena (Zaragoza), Spain


Email: bsv@sanvalero.com Teléfono: +34 976 620 400 Horario especial verano (02/07/2018 al 31/09/2018) Lunes a viernes de 07:00-15:00h. TIENDA BODEGA Teléfono: +34 976 620 930 Lunes a Viernes de 09:30 a 17:30 h. Sábados, Domingos y Festivos de 11:00 a 15:00 h. (sujeto a visitas concertadas) TIENDA URBANA Teléfono: +34 976 622 001 Lunes a Sábado de 09:30 a 13:30 h y de 16:00 a 19:30 h. Domingos y Festivos de 10:00 a 14:00 h D.O.P. Cariñena The Cariñena region is in the middle valley of the Ebro river and includes 14 municipalities from Zaragoza: Aguarón, Aladrén, Alfamen, Almonacid de la Sierra, Alpartir, Cosuenda, Encinacorba, Longares, Mezalocha, Muel, Paniza, Tosos y Villanueva de Huerva. Its wine tradition goes back to the third century BC, when the inhabitants from the Roman village Carae (currently Cariñena) drank wine mixed with honey. The visit of king Philip II of Spain to Cariñena is popularly known. According to chronicles he was welcomed with public fountains spouting red and white wine – a tradition still kept alive. In 1909, king Alfonso XIII of Spain awarded Cariñena with the title of Town because of its arduous labor in the recovery of vineyards affected by the Phylloxera, a plague that devastated vineyards across Europe at the end of the 19th century. In 1932, Cariñena obtained the first Designation of Origin in the Aragon region, being one of the first wineries in Spain obtaining this distinction well. 2011 saw the launch of the D.O.'s new campaign and slogan: "The wine of stones". A message that aims at marking the difference between Cariñena and other wines and denominations of origin, based on typical soil features in the area, as well as how stony land can be used to grow wonderful vines. Cheers!


August 18, 2018 Circulation 5,000

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag Isaac Baker This week, I’ve got a round-up of recent samples from all over, all of which cost less than $30. William Fèvre, known for ethereal Premier and Grand Cru Chablis, has an entry-level new release that offers a bit of everything I look for in a Chablis, and it’s a really solid buy at $25. M. Chapoutier’s Domaine de Bila-Haut brand, always reliably good for the money, delivers again with their L’Esquerda red blend, a serious wine that brings a lot of complexity and aging potential. Included in this report are a handful of wines from all over Italy (Veneto, Tuscany, Piedmont), all of which cost $30 or less. Lastly, I tasted two whites and a pink from the Spanish region of Cariñena, all of which cost less than $15. It’s still summer, and these three wines pack a whole lot of goodness for their price points. All of these wines were received as samples and tasted sighted. 2017 William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux SEA Limited Edition – France, Burgundy, Chablis SRP: $25 Light yellow color. Aromas of white peaches, lemons, honeysuckle and seashells. Mediumbodied on the palate with a brisk and fresh appeal and plenty of acidity. Lemon curd and orange peel mix nicely with saline, seashells and ocean spray notes, with some dusty minerals that linger onto the finish. A lot of depth for an entry-level Chablis at this price point. (89 points) 2016 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Villages Domaine de Bila-Haut L’Esquerda – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages SRP: $25 Deep purple color. Dark and saucy black currants, juicy black cherries, along with complex elements roasted herbs, cracked black pepper, leather, cocoa. Plump and juicy with medium tannins and medium-low acidity. Black cherries, black currants, roasted fig, the fruit mixes with spicy black pepper, sage, grilled rosemary, with deeper notes of dark chocolate, espresso, vanilla and scorches earth. Put together so well, this should age nicely, too, but ready to go now. Syrah, Grenache and Carignan from a single vineyard, 40- to 60-year-old vines. (90 points) N.V. La Marca Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Luminore – Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di ConglianoValdobbiadene Superiore SRP: $25 Bursting nose of fresh lemons and limes, dusty chalk, notes of dandelion and baby’s breath. On the palate this is crisp and quite dry, light-bodied but texturally interesting. Lemon-lime, some melon peel, with notes of white flowers, cut flower stems, chalk dusty. Fresh and bright and a lot of fun. A step-up Prosecco that is not to be dismissed. (88 points) 2016 Pieropan Soave Classico – Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico SRP: $20 Rich yellow color. Aromas of bruised yellow apples, creamy peach, with honeybutter, some nutty-salty notes. Plump texture on the palate with bright acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Apples and peaches play well off of floral perfume, whipped butter, notes of salt and almond. A bit lacking on the finish, but fun and tasty stuff. 85 Garganega and 15% Trebbiao. (86 points) 2016 Jermann Vinnaioli Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT SRP: $30 Medium yellow color. Steely and salty aromas with grapefruit, green apples, honeysuckle and dandelion. Brisk and fresh, light and breezy, but some interesting creamy texture and minerality. Yellow and green apples mixed with floral perfume,


magnolia flowers and honeysuckle. Fresh and fun, but it has a lot more skill and punching power than many Pinot Grigios from this region. Sourced from two vineyards in Collio. (90 points) 2015 Argiano Non Confunditur Toscana – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT SRP: $23 Bright ruby color. Nose shows tart raspberries, red currant jam, spicy strawberries, with notes of tobacco leaf, rose petal and spicy pepper. On the palate, this is a medium/full-bodied wine with quite smooth tannins and moderate acidity. Flavors of tart red currant and raspberry mix with black pepper, spicy tobacco and scorched earth. Simple, fun, pleasant. Cabernet, Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. (87 points) 2017 Rocca di Montemassi Renaissance Rosé – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT SRP: $17 Very pale copper color. Smells of white cherries, watermelon, along with thistle, baby’s breath, a wild green herb and honeysuckle component that I find interesting, too. Medium-bodied, fresh and zippy but a pleasant plumpness on the palate, too. White cherries and wild strawberries mix with bright white flowers, wild green herbs and a spicy herbal tea note. Fresh, inviting, but showing complexity, too. A blend of Sangiovese and Syrah from Maremma. (88 points) 2014 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT SRP: $23 Rich purple color. I get aromas of roasted figs and plum sauce, with violets, vanilla and coffee grounds. Rich and plush on the palate with velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Flavors of roasted fig, black currant jam, topped in anise, espresso, black pepper and tobacco. Full, warm and rich, but also tangy. A blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Sangiovese, this is a solid value for this style and price. (88 points) 2016 Renato Ratti Barbera d’Alba Battaglione – Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba SRP: $20 Rich purple color. Smoky aromas of charcoal, anise and graphite on top of generous black cherries and dark plums. Fresh and fleshy on the palate, fun stuff with medium acidity and plush tannins, but this shows a bit of complexity too. Black cherries, tart and crunchy red currants and plums mix with anise, violets, smoky tobacco, cinnamon. Fun and easy-drinking but not simple, this opens up nicely with some air. (88 points) 2016 Bodegas Paniza Cariñena Agoston Viura & Chardonnay - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena SRP: $9 Very pale color. Steel and bright on the nose with white flowers, lime pit, lemon wedges and sea salt. Zesty and bright on the palate on an easy-drinking frame with flavors of lemon-lime and green apple. Floral perfume, cucumber, white pepper flavors. Simple, fresh, fun summer sipper. (85 points) 2017 Grandes Vinos y Viñedos Corona de Aragón Garnacha Blanca - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena SRP: $9 Pale straw color. Aromas of peaches, limes, oranges and lychee, topped with sea salt and honeysuckle. Precise and fresh on the palate with fun stony-salty qualities. Lemon, white peach and oranges mixed with floral perfume and a steel, zesty appeal. Lots of fun, showing some good complexity at this price point. (87 points) 2016 Bodegas San Valero Garnacha Rosado Origium - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena SRP: $15 Almost neon cherry color in the glass. Loving the spicy aromatics of green herbs, white pepper, nettle, on top of watermelon, red cherries and pomegranate. Bright and crisp but super fruit, as the watermelon, raspberry and pomegranate fruit offer a lot to love. Stays fresh, with lots of spicy elements like herbal tea, nettle, rose hips. Delicious, fun, lots going on for the price. (88 points) 2016 Seven Kingdoms Wines Pinot Noir Game of Thrones – USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley SRP: $20 Pretty, deep ruby color. Aromas of strawberries, bright cherries, cola, some chai tea and cedar. Juicy and full with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Cherries and red currant jam flavors mix with some sweet tobacco and cedar. Big and boastful but shows some balance as well. A fun Pinot for early drinking. (86 points)


August 18, 2018 Circulation 5000

International Grab Bag: New Releases Under $30 Isaac Baker

This week, I’ve got a round-up of recent samples from all over, all of which cost less than $30. William Fèvre, known for ethereal Premier and Grand Cru Chablis, has an entry-level new release that offers a bit of everything I look for in a Chablis, and it’s a really solid buy at $25. M. Chapoutier’s Domaine de Bila-Haut brand, always reliably good for the money, delivers again with their L’Esquerda red blend, a serious wine that brings a lot of complexity and aging potential. Included in this report are a handful of wines from all over Italy (Veneto, Tuscany, Piedmont), all of which cost $30 or less. Lastly, I tasted two whites and a pink from the Spanish region of Cariñena, all of which cost less than $15. It’s still summer, and these three wines pack a whole lot of goodness for their price points. All of these wines were received as samples and tasted sighted. 2017 William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux SEA Limited Edition – France, Burgundy, Chablis SRP: $25 Light yellow color. Aromas of white peaches, lemons, honeysuckle and seashells. Medium-bodied on the palate with a brisk and fresh appeal and plenty of acidity. Lemon curd and orange peel mix nicely with saline, seashells and ocean spray notes, with some dusty minerals that linger onto the finish. A lot of depth for an entry-level Chablis at this price point. (89 points) 2016 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Villages Domaine de Bila-Haut L’Esquerda – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages SRP: $25 Deep purple color. Dark and saucy black currants, juicy black cherries, along with complex elements roasted herbs, cracked black pepper, leather, cocoa. Plump and juicy with medium tannins and medium-low acidity. Black cherries, black currants, roasted fig, the fruit mixes with spicy black pepper, sage, grilled rosemary, with deeper notes of dark chocolate, espresso, vanilla and scorches earth. Put together so well, this should age nicely, too, but ready to go now. Syrah, Grenache and Carignan from a single vineyard, 40- to 60-year-old vines. (90 points) N.V. La Marca Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Luminore – Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di ConglianoValdobbiadene Superiore SRP: $25


Bursting nose of fresh lemons and limes, dusty chalk, notes of dandelion and baby’s breath. On the palate this is crisp and quite dry, light-bodied but texturally interesting. Lemon-lime, some melon peel, with notes of white flowers, cut flower stems, chalk dusty. Fresh and bright and a lot of fun. A step-up Prosecco that is not to be dismissed. (88 points) 2016 Pieropan Soave Classico – Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico SRP: $20 Rich yellow color. Aromas of bruised yellow apples, creamy peach, with honeybutter, some nutty-salty notes. Plump texture on the palate with bright acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Apples and peaches play well off of floral perfume, whipped butter, notes of salt and almond. A bit lacking on the finish, but fun and tasty stuff. 85 Garganega and 15% Trebbiao. (86 points) 2016 Jermann Vinnaioli Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT SRP: $30 Medium yellow color. Steely and salty aromas with grapefruit, green apples, honeysuckle and dandelion. Brisk and fresh, light and breezy, but some interesting creamy texture and minerality. Yellow and green apples mixed with floral perfume, magnolia flowers and honeysuckle. Fresh and fun, but it has a lot more skill and punching power than many Pinot Grigios from this region. Sourced from two vineyards in Collio. (90 points) 2015 Argiano Non Confunditur Toscana – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT SRP: $23 Bright ruby color. Nose shows tart raspberries, red currant jam, spicy strawberries, with notes of tobacco leaf, rose petal and spicy pepper. On the palate, this is a medium/full-bodied wine with quite smooth tannins and moderate acidity. Flavors of tart red currant and raspberry mix with black pepper, spicy tobacco and scorched earth. Simple, fun, pleasant. Cabernet, Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. (87 points) 2017 Rocca di Montemassi Renaissance Rosé – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT SRP: $17 Very pale copper color. Smells of white cherries, watermelon, along with thistle, baby’s breath, a wild green herb and honeysuckle component that I find interesting, too. Medium-bodied, fresh and zippy but a pleasant plumpness on the palate, too. White cherries and wild strawberries mix with bright white flowers, wild green herbs and a spicy herbal tea note. Fresh, inviting, but showing complexity, too. A blend of Sangiovese and Syrah from Maremma. (88 points) 2014 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT SRP: $23 Rich purple color. I get aromas of roasted figs and plum sauce, with violets, vanilla and coffee grounds. Rich and plush on the palate with velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Flavors of roasted fig, black currant jam, topped in anise, espresso, black pepper and tobacco. Full, warm and rich, but also tangy. A blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Sangiovese, this is a solid value for this style and price. (88 points) 2016 Renato Ratti Barbera d’Alba Battaglione – Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba SRP: $20 Rich purple color. Smoky aromas of charcoal, anise and graphite on top of generous black cherries and dark plums. Fresh and fleshy on the palate, fun stuff with medium acidity and plush tannins, but this shows a bit of complexity too. Black cherries, tart and crunchy red currants and plums mix with anise, violets, smoky tobacco, cinnamon. Fun and easy-drinking but not simple, this opens up nicely with some air. (88 points) 2016 Bodegas Paniza Cariñena Agoston Viura & Chardonnay - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena SRP: $9 Very pale color. Steel and bright on the nose with white flowers, lime pit, lemon wedges and sea salt. Zesty and bright on the palate on an easy-drinking frame with flavors of lemon-lime and green apple. Floral perfume, cucumber, white pepper flavors. Simple, fresh, fun summer sipper. (85 points) 2017 Grandes Vinos y Viñedos Corona de Aragón Garnacha Blanca - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena SRP: $9 Pale straw color. Aromas of peaches, limes, oranges and lychee, topped with sea salt and honeysuckle. Precise and fresh on the palate with fun stony-salty qualities. Lemon, white peach and oranges mixed with floral perfume and a steel, zesty appeal. Lots of fun, showing some good complexity at this price point. (87 points) 2016 Bodegas San Valero Garnacha Rosado Origium - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena SRP: $15 Almost neon cherry color in the glass. Loving the spicy aromatics of green herbs, white pepper, nettle, on top of watermelon, red cherries and pomegranate. Bright and crisp but super fruit, as the watermelon, raspberry and pomegranate fruit offer a


lot to love. Stays fresh, with lots of spicy elements like herbal tea, nettle, rose hips. Delicious, fun, lots going on for the price. (88 points) 2016 Seven Kingdoms Wines Pinot Noir Game of Thrones – USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley SRP: $20 Pretty, deep ruby color. Aromas of strawberries, bright cherries, cola, some chai tea and cedar. Juicy and full with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Cherries and red currant jam flavors mix with some sweet tobacco and cedar. Big and boastful but shows some balance as well. A fun Pinot for early drinking. (86 points)


August 14, 2018 Circulation 210,000

#CoolDownwithCariñena #Wine: “Crafted in Stone” Todd Godbout Cariñena is not only the second oldest region in Spain, but is also home to its own varietal and appellation.

Cariñena (Carignane) is a Spanish Denominación de Origen (DO) located in the Ebro Valley of Aragón midway between Barcelona and Madrid that was designated in 1932 although it's winemaking traditions can be documented as far back as the early 15th century. In fact the region's vines survived the devastating European Phylloxera epidemic because the lousy mite that caused the disease couldn't survive the soil's stoney and sandy nature and a marketing mantra “Crafted in Stone” is now utilized. Grape quality is not only maintained from these well drained soils but also the large diurnal temperature swings due to the region's elevation, proximity to the Ebro River and the Cierzo winds. These factors help the Garnacha, Cariñena, Mazuelo, Tempranillo, Viura, Chardonnay, and Parellada grapes develop character and retain acidity. Today the Cariñena wine region boasts 1,600 growers; 35,000 acres of vines; with many of theses small growers belonging to cooperative wineries. I recently received two white wines and a rosé that the refreshing nature of wine from this region as well as a Cariñena Regional recipe. It's time to #CoolDownwithCariñena. Cheers. 2017 Corona D Aragon Garnacha Blanc D.O.P. Cariñena - includes some Chardonnay - lemon and fresh pear on the nose, stronger grapefruit and shades of minerals, before finishing with a fresh finale. 2017 Paniza Viura-Chardonnay D.O.P. Cariñena - this is a 50-50 blend of the two grape varieties that provides citrus, cream, and softness before leaving with a lingering and lively finish. 2017 Bodegas San Valero Particular Garnacha Rosé - is all berries throughout the experience, depth and minerals, and lively refreshing acids.


August 12, 2018 Circulation 5000

Wines of Cariñena for Summer! #CoolDownwithCariñena Jim Van Bergen Bodegas Paniza Agostón 2016 Viura and Chardonnay Blend, Cariñena, Spain. 12.5% ABV, $13-14/bottle, internet/street. Screwcap Closure.

Color is a translucent, neutral straw with just a tiny hint of green. The nose offers a gentle citrus with lychee. On the palate, there are notes of lime zest, green melon, and sweet plantains. Gentle acidity on the back palate and a subtle, bitter finish. I am quick to refill this in the heat of the summer. A blend of 70% Viura and 30% Chardonnay, it is light, cool, and refreshing: reminding me of the wonderful local wines I tasted last summer while sailing the Mediterranean Sea. This is delicate, and so similar to the wines of last summer- easy to imbibe all afternoon or to pair with raw seafood, cold gazpacho, salads and vegetables, along with baked white fish, chicken or pork. Yum! Corona D Aragon Garnacha Blanca 2017. Cariñena, Spain. 12.5% ABV, Around $10/bottle street price. Nomacork Closure.


Color is young straw. The nose is quite delicate, with hints of honeysuckle blossom, sunflower, and almond paste. On the palate is fresh lemon rind, crisp apple, with a hint of tangerine. Nice acidity is left behind on the tongue and front palate, the overall effect like a ray of sunshine catching you after being lost behind the clouds. This is a blend of 87% white grenache, and 13% chardonnay grapes that paired perfectly with Chinese stir-fry and again with spicy Thai noodles, but also with flatbread white pizza and a traditional Naples-style pizza with a spicy San Marzano tomato sauce. Bodegas San Valero, Origium 1944: Rosé of Garnacha, 2016. Cariñena, Spain. ABV 12.5%, Street Price under $10/bottle, Traditional cork closure. Color is a beautiful and deep cerise. The nose is of tiny fresh red berries and a hint of green leaves. On the palate is fresh cranberry, watermelon, a touch of young raspberry. Delightfully young, exuberant, and lively, with acidity crossing the top of the palate, leaving your mouth refreshed.

This is a wine you want to start sipping before mid-day. It’s so fresh, bright, and unassuming– you will want to continue sipping this lightly with lunch, in a hammock as you enjoy the sun, all afternoon long as you prepare supper, while you rest with your family, and relax with friends. This lovely rosé of garnacha will pair beautifully with smoked or roasted game (think cranberry sauce on Thanksgiving) or with vegetables or any hearty flavors. There is enough acidity here to handle savory flavors of pan-tossed brussel sprouts, artichoke hearts, or a lovely paella! Just a hint of vanilla & cedar lets you know it was aged in wooden barriques and has the ability to stand up to serious main courses, not just appetizers. All of these wines are excellent for hot weather, with bright citrus and delicate fruit. If you’re looking for a great traditional dish from a regional recipe of Cariñenas, try this migas recipe with garnacha blanca, a viura/chardonnay blend, or garnacha rosé! #WIYG? Whats YOUR summer wine to beat the heat? Have you tried these? Share your thoughts with me below! à votre santé!


August 10, 2018 Circulation 5000

Wines from Cariñena, Spain: Perfect for Summer Sipping (#winepw) Lauren Walsh

Just in time for the dog days of summer, the Wine Pairing Weekend crew is exploring the Crisp White Wines from Spain and Portugal. I don’t know about you, but I’m ready to uncork a few of these refreshing treats! Our host this month is Camilla from Culinary Adventures with Camilla, and you can read her invitation post here. Each of us has picked a wine or two that fit the category, done a little “research,” and written a post about our selections. On Saturday at 11 am ET we’ll meet up on Twitter to share what we’ve learned. Our chats are always full of yummy food pairings and tasting notes, with a few travel tales thrown in for good measure. Please join us! It’s easy to do: just log on to Twitter at the appointed time and follow the hashtag #WinePW. And be sure to add it to all of your tweets. Here’s a sneak-peek at what we’ll be discussing on Saturday: • • • • • • • • • • • •

Lori of Dracaena Wines is Celebrating International Albariño Day with #WinePW. David from Cooking Chat offers up Rias Baixas Albariño with Summer Party Nibbles. Sarah of Curious Cuisiniere puts together Galician Style Mussels In White Wine And An Albariño Wine Pairing Jill of L’Occasion says What We’re Drinking Now: Chill White Wine from Spain and Portugal. Jeff of FoodWineClick! writes Tapas and Albariño: A Winning Combination. Cindy of Grape Experiences is Summer Sipping: Pazo Pondal Albariño 2017. Rupal of Syrah Queen lists Top White Wines from the Douro Valley. Michelle of Rockin Red Blog tells us to Beat the Summer Heat with Rias Baixas Albariño. Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm shares Albariño and Seafood Stew: the Perfect Pairing. Jane of Always Ravenous serves Grilled Clams with Spanish Albariño. Nicole of Somm’s Table is Cooking to the Wine: Adegas Gran Vinum Nessa Albariño Rias Baixas and an Umami-packed Twist on Fish and Chips. Susannah of avvinare offers Albariño paired with Shrimp Paella – A Summer Delight.


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Gwendolyn of Wine Predator is having an Albariño Adventure on Anglesey. Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla pairs California Central Coast Albariños with Spanish Bites. And here at The Swirling Dervish we’re featuring Wines from Cariñena, Spain: Perfect for Summer Sipping.

Cariñena: A Region to Watch That’s the slogan for DOP Cariñena, an area with a long viticultural history dating to Roman times. In fact, the name Cariñena derives from the original Roman city, Carae, founded in 50 BC. It lies within the autonomous community of Aragón, in northeastern Spain, a landscape that includes the Ebro River Valley and borders the Pyrénées Mountains to the north and the grand central plain (meseta) to the south. Catalunya lies to the east. And it’s interesting to note that, in Spain, Cariñena refers to the name of the town and the grape variety (aka Carignan in France.)

Map courtesy of Bodegas San Valero The climate can best be described as extreme, with very hot summers and harsh, cold winters: hardly the ideal conditions in which to grow grapes for high-quality wines. But Cariñena has a few things working in its favor: • • • • •

The mountainous terrain allows for vineyard plantings at elevations as high as 2,000 feet, where the searing heat of summer is moderated by cooler air currents. The Cierzo Wind sweeps in from the north, keeping the vines cool and dry, and fungal diseases at bay. Temperatures vary greatly between day and night, what wine growers call a diurnal shift; it helps grapes maintain acidity even if they’re grown in warm climates. Soils are an ancient mix of limestone, sand, clay, and stones, with the composition varying from one parcel to the next. Grape varieties can be matched to the conditions that suit them. Cariñena boasts more old vine plantings of Garnacha and Cariñena than any other region of Spain. On average, the vines are 30-40 years old; some have been around for more than 100 years.


Old-Vines Garnacha from Cariñena, courtesy of Grandes Vinos A Focus on Quality In 1696, local winemakers implemented the Statute of the Vine, a commitment to making high-quality wines by identifying the most promising vineyards for cultivation, and by limiting yields. When the phylloxera crisis destroyed most of Europe’s vines, Cariñena was largely unaffected. It became a refuge for vignerons from France, allowing them to continue farming and supporting their families. King Alfonso XIII rewarded the citizens of Cariñena for their generosity by granting the town an independent charter in 1863. In 1932, Cariñena was named an official Denominacion de Origen (DO), the second in Spain’s history (Rioja was the first.) Many of the tenets embodied in the DO regulations have their roots in the original Statute of the Vine. Tasting the Wines Thanks to Stefanie Schwalb at Gregory+Vine for offering me the chance to try three refreshing wines from Cariñena. (Note: the wines were provided as samples, but the opinions expressed in this post are mine – all mine!)

Crisp and tropical – it’s not a contradiction! At least not with this wine. 2017 Bodegas Paniza Viura Chardonnay (13% abv; about $10 retail) A 50/50 blend of Viura and Chardonnay, this wine is made from grapes farmed on the highest elevations in the region, on the hillsides of the Sistema Ibérico Mountains. Bodegas Paniza, a cooperative of 400 growers, takes advantage of the multiple microclimates that define this part of Cariñena: there are parcels of limestone, sand, and clay planted to the varieties that thrive there. Many are old-vine plantings, including the flagship vineyard (average age 50 years) and the oldest plot which was planted in 1906.


This white blend underwent a short maceration on the skins (2-3 days) and was fermented in stainless steel under strict temperature control. It spent no time in oak. Color: Pale lemon, fading to clear at the edge. Nose: A lively mix of ripe orchard fruit (apple and pear) and white flowers, accented by a fresh lemony note. Clean and crisp, very inviting. Palate: The fruit is more tropical here, think pineapple, with bright flavors of lemon zest and lime. Acidity is medium+ and the finish is clean, with a lingering taste of preserved lemon. Pairing: I love Chardonnay with roast chicken and potatoes, so this was a no-brainer for me. I prepared the chicken with lemon and garlic, choosing lemon and rosemary for the potatoes. A quick tomato salad completed the menu. The wine and food got along like a house on fire! Super delish.

Perfect pink Rosado! 2017 Bodegas San Valero Particular Origium Garnacha Rosado (11.5% abv; about $10 retail) Bodegas San Valero is another cooperative (700 growers) allowing smaller establishments to craft high-quality wines without incurring the capital expenses of a full-scale winery. San Valero’s offerings focus on grape varieties native to Cariñena, especially Garnacha (25% of plantings) most of which comes from vines 30-100 years old. No surprise then, that the Particular Rosado is 100% Garnacha. This is a classic wine made in a modern style: the region’s traditional grape variety made in stainless steel under cool temperatures. To achieve the perfect pink color, the juice sat on the grape skins for several hours. Just enough time to extract the juicy cherry-berry flavors of classic Garnacha without inviting unwanted bitterness. Rosado and antipasto – easy and delicious. Color: Perfect pink with glints of violet/purple throughout. Nose: All the things I love about Garnacha – red berries and cherries galore, with a whiff of savory/herbal grilled meat. Yes! This is true Rosado. Palate: Ripe raspberry and cherry mingle with notes of thyme and citrus peel. Medium acidity, medium body, and medium finish. Brings back memories of my first trip to Spain, when I drank Rosado like this one by the carafe, while scarfing down fresh-grilled sardines at the beach. Pairing: We sipped this as we snacked on an antipasto platter and it was a great match. But the wine really showed its true Spanish colors alongside a watermelon and feta salad. I could have that meal every night for a month! Feta-watermelon salad – refreshing on a triple-H day! Waiting for dinner? Relax with a glass of Garnacha Blanca.


2017 Grandes Vinos Corona de Aragon Garnacha Blanca (13% abv; about $15 retail) Grandes Vinos bills itself as the Legacy of Cariñena, an appropriate moniker considering it has vineyard plots in all 14 growing zones. Under the Grandes Vinos umbrella are five wineries, all of which work with the Grandes Vinos technical team to craft wines reflecting their unique origins. It’s a great model, one that delivers a multitude of options for the consumer: grape varieties are matched to the most suitable parcels depending on soil types and elevation. The result is a diverse menu of wines available at all price points. This wine is actually a blend (87% Garnacha Blanca; 13% Chardonnay) from a combination of old-vine plantings (the Chardonnay vines are at least 25 years old) and new (the Garnacha vines a mere five years old.) All plots lie on the rocky, well-drained soil native to Cariñena. Fermentation was in stainless steel and there was no oak treatment, meaning this is a fresh, vibrant wine ready to handle a wide range of foods. Color: Pale lemon-green, fading to clear at the rim. Nose: Medium+ intensity aromas of white flowers, citrus blossom, and ripe pear. There’s a decidedly sweet scent that is almost honeyed. Palate: Lots of orchard fruit – ripe apple and pear – and just a touch of tropical pineapple. It actually tastes like grilled pineapple. The wine is medium in body, alcohol, and acidity, with a lingering finish of frangipane/bitter almond. Sweet Southern Swine Pizza from Whole Foods Market. Pairing: We paired this with our favorite take-out pizza from Whole Foods. It’s called the Sweet Southern Swine and it’s a white pie with pork belly, jicama, and arugula, then drizzled with a hint of honey. I think there might be some magic dust sprinkled on top, because it’s just heavenly! And it was uhh-mazing with the Garnacha Blanca. Super match! I hope you’ve enjoyed my brief trip to Cariñena’s wine country. And I hope my notes have encouraged you to try these wines for yourself. They deliver a lot of bang for the buck and are perfect for the triple-H occasions: you know, the hazy, hot, and humid days of late summer. (Or any time of year, for those of us living in south Florida!) If you’re interested in learning more about the region, here are a few resources for your reference: • • •

Visit the Cariñena DOP website for a great overview of the history and wines of the region. Search social media using #CoolDownwithCariñena or #CariñenaAmbassadors. Planning a trip to Spain? Learn about Cariñena’s Wine Route here.

And if you find something really great, please let me know in the comments. I’m always up for great QPR wines like these!


August 9, 2018 Circulation 5000

Enjoy a Summer Cool Down with Three Refreshing Spanish Wines from Cariñena Lisa Cascio Mays

This summer’s temperatures are still on the rise. It’s never been a better time to explore the refreshing wines from the region of Cariñena. Discover wines that you will enjoy during this hot summer that also pair well with your favorite summertime foods. About the area: D.O.P. Cariñena is located in the heart of the Ebro Valley in Spain’s northeast region of Aragón bordered by France to the north and Catalunya to the east. This area is rich with history. From 1415 when King Ferdinand declared Cariñena wines were preferred above others until Grenache in the style of Cariñena was discovered to be the next grape and region to watch, they have become favorite wines for hot weather enjoyment. The extreme night-to-day temperature variations and climate of Cariñena produces rich, expressive wine with ample aromatics and structure. About the grapes: The white wines featuring Chardonnay and native grapes such as Macabeo/Viura and 100% Garnacha-based rosé are three refreshing options perfect for warm weather entertaining. Food Pairing suggestions: Lighter meals for the summer weather such as colorful grilled vegetables and fish pair well with the zesty, citrus and aromatic notes while summer pastas and salads will be a perfect accompaniment to the rose’. Traditional Spanish pairings are featured on the website. Check out this Migas recipe. This beloved dish is considered Cariñena comfort food by the local residents. Share your experience on social media using the hashtag #CoolDownwithCariñena and they will re-post to all their friends and followers.


Paniza Joven Blanco Bodegas Paniza 100% Macabeo 12% Alcohol This is a perfect summertime wine for a variety of cool summertime salads and entrees. Light bodied, zesty and aromatic, you’ll enjoy the mouthwatering citrusy lemon zest. Fresh cut pineapple, green apple and hint of bitter almonds on the palate and the white floral notes on the nose make this an irresistible wine. If the grape sounds familiar-Viura (Macabeo) – that’s because it’s one of the grapes in the Spanish sparkling wine Cava. So you know it’s going to be refreshing on it own as a still wine.

Particular Chardonnay Muscatel 12.5% alcohol Bodegas San Valero Chardonnay lends the fresh lemon zest and somewhat creamy lusciousness and Muscat of Alexandria contributes to the floral aromatics. Together, you’ll have a summertime wine that particularly lends itself to seafood and poultry dishes with butter and lemon.

Corona de Aragon 2017 13% alcohol Rose’s are everyone’s favorite for summertime ….everything! This vibrant pink Spanish Garnacha Rosè boasts tangy acidity of juicy raspberries, strawberries and and juicy ripe watermelon. There is a slight savoriness to this wine which lends to the versatility in food pairings for this wine. Spiced grilled lamb chops or salmon and anything with tomatoes would be a welcomed pairing with this wine. #CoolDownwithCariñena Now, go enjoy the rest of this very hot summer with three cool and refreshing wines!


August 8,2018 Circulation 5,000

#CoolDownwithCariñena #Wine: “Crafted in Stone” Todd Godbout Cariñena is not only the second oldest region in Spain, but is also home to its own varietal and appellation.

Cariñena (Carignane) is a Spanish Denominación de Origen (DO) located in the Ebro Valley of Aragón midway between Barcelona and Madrid that was designated in 1932 although it's winemaking traditions can be documented as far back as the early 15th century. In fact the region's vines survived the devastating European Phylloxera epidemic because the lousy mite that caused the disease couldn't survive the soil's stoney and sandy nature and a marketing mantra “Crafted in Stone” is now utilized. Grape quality is not only maintained from these well drained soils but also the large diurnal temperature swings due to the region's elevation, proximity to the Ebro River and the Cierzo winds. These factors help the Garnacha, Cariñena, Mazuelo, Tempranillo, Viura, Chardonnay, and Parellada grapes develop character and retain acidity. Today the Cariñena wine region boasts 1,600 growers; 35,000 acres of vines; with many of theses small growers belonging to cooperative wineries. I recently received two white wines and a rosé that the refreshing nature of wine from this region as well as a Cariñena Regional recipe. It's time to #CoolDownwithCariñena. Cheers. 2017 Corona D Aragon Garnacha Blanc D.O.P. Cariñena - includes some Chardonnay - lemon and fresh pear on the nose, stronger grapefruit and shades of minerals, before finishing with a fresh finale. 2017 Paniza Viura-Chardonnay D.O.P. Cariñena - this is a 50-50 blend of the two grape varieties that provides citrus, cream, and softness before leaving with a lingering and lively finish. 2017 Bodegas San Valero Particular Garnacha Rosé - is all berries throughout the experience, depth and minerals, and lively refreshing acids.


August 4, 2018 Circulation 5000

Paniza Agostón Viura & Chardonnay Cariñena 2016 Cara Rutherford

Winery: Bodegas Paniza is located at the foot of the Sistema Ibérico in northeastern Spain. Paniza has a total of 4760 hectares of land, 2500 of which are vineyards, 76 hectares contain vines that are 50 to over 100 years old. The other half of the land is left undisturbed and encompasses a wide variety of microclimates, the vineyards move seamlessly between the mountainsides, wild flower fields and old almond groves. The name Agostón [Spanish wild boar] is in reference to the wild boars that “sneak into our vineyards from the adjoining forest-covered slopes of the Ibérico mountain-range. Here, amongst our old vines growing on stony soils, they’re free to take the pick of the bunch”. Tasting Notes: Pale gold in colour, with aromas of pear, yellow apple and citrus. Cantaloupe, pear and lemon are glossed by fresh acidity. Tangy grapefruit accents the crisp, mineral driven finish. Bright, light and super refreshing. [Paired with barbeque tempeh, potato salad with cilantro and blue cheese, and sautéed peppers and beans.] 70% Viura, 30% Chardonnay Cariñena Spain Bottled by Bodegas Paniza 12.5% Alcohol $10 [average price] Enjoy now Sample submitted for editorial consideration.


{ grape gatherings } Industry influencers descended on The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Copia in Napa, California, for the Global Garnacha Summit.

Cinderella STORY A

AT THE FIRST GLOBAL GARNACHA SUMMIT, DOP CARIÑENA AND VIP TASTEMAKERS DISCUSS THE FUTURE OF SPAIN’S RISING-STAR GRAPE by Jonathan Cristaldi / photos by Alexander Rubin

Master of Wine Pedro Ballesteros Torres wrote the cover story on Garnacha for the April-May 2018 issue of The SOMM Journal.

During the first annual Global Garnacha Summit held this past April at The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Copia in downtown Napa, all eyes were on Cariñena, a small Roman-era town in the Aragón region of northeast Spain. Although the Carignan (Cariñena) grape is believed to have originated from this precise area of the Ebro Valley, wine production has shifted focus to Garnacha/Grenache, which is better suited to the arid, dry conditions of the region and very well could have first grown in these soils, as well. The focus of the summit was to highlight old-vine Garnacha and its respective regional homes—including, of course, Cariñena, which sponsored the event in partnership with these other Garnacha-centric areas to host sommeliers and top wine buyers from around the world. Seminars and tastings, including an in-

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Breaking Down Garnacha

The fascinating “Garnacha Unveiled” seminar featured a strong panel of Garnacha/ Grenache evangelists. Pictured from left to right: moderator Bob Bath, MS, followed by panelists Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard; Pedro Ballesteros Torres, MW; Emmanuel Kemiji, MS, owner of Miura Vineyards and Managing Director at Clos Pissarra; Chelsea Franchi, Sr. Assistant Winemaker for Tablas Creek Vineyard; Angela Osborne of Grace Wine Company; and Even Bakke of Clos de Trias in the Ventoux.

teractive blind tasting led by SommFoundation, were offered as Grenache producers from Cariñena, California, France, Australia, and Italy assembled to represent their respective wines. The first seminar, dubbed “Garnacha Unveiled,” included Garnacha/Grenache evangelists Pedro Ballesteros Torres, Master of Wine and joint regional chair for Spain for the Decanter World Wine Awards; Even Bakke of Clos de Trias; Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard; Chelsea Franchi of Tablas Creek Vineyard and Château de Beaucastel; Angela Osborne of Grace Wine Company; and Master Sommelier Emmanuel Kemiji, owner of Miura Vineyards and Managing Director at Clos Pissarra. Moderator Bob Bath, MS and a professor of wine and beverage studies at The CIA, helped set the stage with Ballesteros Torres, who in turn provided a funny, expertly crafted, and vivid description of the Garnacha grape. “It’s a lot like the actor Daniel DayLewis: Every role he plays, he becomes a part of that role,” he said. “That’s like Garnacha—it takes on the personality of where it’s grown and the style in which it’s made. It’s not like Cary Grant, who was like Cary Grant in every part he played.” Bath then motioned to Grahm, a venerable avantgarde winemaker he said had “referred to Grenache as the ‘Cinderella grape.’ ” “Today, we’re taking her The Grenache vines of to the ball,” Bath quipped, adding that roughly 90 the Warboys Vineyard in percent of Garnacha grows between France and McLaren Vale, Australia, Spain. “It’s a significant crop for these countries, and bury their roots deeply in in terms of global plantings, it ranks seventh. Why? Its limestone for sustenance. adaptability. About 6,500 acres are planted in the U.S., of which roughly 4,500 are in California alone.” Ballesteros Torres also added some regional insights on Cariñena. “We have more old-vine Garnacha planted than any other region in Spain,” he said. “Every year brings many different micro-winemaking styles. We believe it is coming into its own because, simply put, it’s delicious.”

Garnacha grape vines produce medium to large clusters of small- to mediumsized berries. It’s an early-budding, lateripening variety with a high natural sugar content and moderate acidity. Clay soils give way to high-vigor Garnacha, but in sandy soils the vine is more restrained. It’s an incredibly drought-resistant variety which thrives in the hot, dry climates found throughout Spain and in France’s Rhône Valley, as well as in California’s Central Coast region. In Spain, plantings of Garnacha Tinta can be found in Sierra de Gredos, Madrid, La Mancha, Mentrida, Priorat, Monsant, Valencia, Rioja, and Navarra, with heavier concentrations of vineyards in Calatayud, Campo de Borja, Somontano, and Cariñena. As we dove into the wines during the morning session, Bath zeroed in on DOP Cariñena, which lies midway between Madrid and Barcelona and was in the literal path of the Crusades. In the third century B.C., Roman citizens of the city Caræ (modern-day Cariñena) consumed a blend of wine and honey, and roughly 1,800 years later, King Ferdinand I of Aragon demanded it for his trips to France. And while phylloxera ravaged Europe, the vines of Cariñena, rooted in sandy soils, escaped devastation. DO status was awarded in 1932 and, today, Cariñena is the largest of four DOs in Aragón with 35,588 acres under vine in 14 municipalities, as well as an astounding 1,540 resident growers all committed to Garnacha. As the tasting began, Bath displayed an incredible photo of dark-red, ironrich soils with 50- to 100-year-old head-trained vines rooted in jagged and fractured rocky schist and gravel. Any vine that can manage to snake its way through such treacherous terrain is more than deserving of a summit dedicated to its multi-faceted styles. The following wines were sampled during the morning session:

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Tasting Garnacha IN TEN WINES Grandes Vinos 2017 Anayón Parcel 81 (Parcelas Selection) Five cooperatives partnered in 1997 to work with vineyards in each of the 14 growing areas of DOP Cariñena. This was a tank sample from a field blend selection from 2.5 acres. Translucent ruby; bright red berry and red florals with wild-herb notes; ripe strawberries, chocolate-covered raspberries, grippy acid, and slate-like minerality with a sweet red-berry finish. 88% Garnacha, 8% Cariñena, and 4% Macabeo; 14.5% ABV; 2,000 bottles will be produced. Clos Pissarra 2014 El Mont Vineyard, El Lloar Priorat Made with fruit from vines more than a century old grown on extremely steep slopes of clay and granite soils in double-cordon-trained vertical shoots. The vineyard borders a forest and yields a mere three-quarters of a ton per acre. Shimmering deep-ruby color; bursting with lovely red and black fruits, black currants, sweet tobacco, bright herbs, and nice, fine-grained tannins. Deeply concentrated on the palate but light on its feet, peeling away layers of black cherry, graphite, and purple flowers with a mocha-spice finished. 100% Garnacha; 15.7% ABV; 1,880 bottles produced. Domaine du Pégau 2012 Cuvée Laurence Segueing to France, where Grenache is the second-most widely planted variety next to Merlot. The Pegau family has grown vines since the 18th century, with 148 acres under vine amidst 11 vineyards throughout Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The same as the do-

maine’s Reserve wine, this is whole-cluster bottling pressed into cement vats then aged 40 months in older oak. Pronounced, gorgeous notes of dried rose petals and Mediterranean herbs; round, rich layers of red and black cherry notes; and fabulous structure from supple tannins with cigarbox spice and black licorice on the finish. 85% Grenache, 9% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre, and 2% other; 14.5% ABV. Clos de Trias 2010 Vieilles Vignes This is an absolute under-$30 stunner produced by Even Bakke, an American ex-pat who purchased an estate in Ventoux in northern Provence and produced his first vintage in 2007. From vineyards 65 to 90-plus years of age rooted in ancient soils similar to the limestone marl of Chablis at roughly 1,200 feet above sea level. 50% whole-cluster pressed. Inspired by Château Rayas’ old barrels and aged in Demi-Muids for seven years before spending eight months in bottle. Deep ruby hue; creamy red-berry notes with high-toned minerality. Utterly delicious and layered with concentrated layers of black fruit, blue-fruit compote, and red berries with a salty, crushed-rock minerality on a long finish. 90% Grenache, 0–4% Syrah, 0–5% Carignan, 0–5% Cinsault; 15.5% ABV; 3,500 bottles produced. Bonny Doon Vineyard 2015 Popelouchum Grenache Moving into California and Washington, winemaker Randall Grahm took the stage to explain that he’s “looking for something original, distinctive, and not an imitation of the work being done in Europe.” “I found some 80- to 90-year-old vines in Oakley, California, and that was the first Cigare Volant,” he said, adding that his wines exhibit a more experimental approach. This fascinating wine sourced fruit from

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two-year-old vines harvested from nursery rows and “fermented in a garbage can,” said Grahm. “For me it has an elegance and Burgundian character—the kind I’ve been dreaming about for 30-plus years.” In the glass, it’s a touch cloudy. Ruby with orange hues, subtle red-berry fruit, and wild herbs or pine-needle spice; a lot of grippy tannins, bracing acidity, and a touch of something meaty with Mexican chocolate on the finish. Very small clusters; very small berries. 100% Grenache; 13.9% ABV; 150 bottles. A Tribute to Grace 2015 Shake Ridge Ranch Grenache Thanks to the presence of large rose quartz boulders surrounding the vines at Shake Ridge Ranch in the Sierra Foothills, winemaker Angela Osborne felt an expression of “pink light” in this wine. There’s certainly a high-toned candied cinnamon note that mingles with toasty and smoky elements, as well as more crushedrock-like minerality. A creamy mouthfeel with candied red raspberry, pops of cinnamon, and Himalayan pink sea salt. 100% Grenache. Clone 362 on 3309 rootstock; 50% whole cluster; native fermentation. Aged in new and used 228- and 600-liter barrels. 13.8% ABV; 125 cases. Tablas Creek Vineyard 2016 Côtes de Tablas Considered the winery’s entry-level wine, it’s made with hand-harvested grapes from 147 blocks on certified-organic vineyards. Shimmering ruby with brick hues; notes of super-bright red berries, wild sagebrush, and white chocolate; juicy with sweet red-berry fruit, smoky with pops of Herbes de Provence, powerful woody tannins, and a vanilla-tinged finish. Beaucastel nursery cuttings. 55% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 13% Mourvèdre, and 7% Counoise; 13.5% ABV; 2,050 cases.


Bethany 2015 Old Vine Grenache Turning to Australia, six generations of Schrapels have farmed the vineyards on the eastern slopes of the Barossa Range. Fantastic blood-orange citrus notes, toast, and toffee with distinct minerality. Fresh on the palate with juicy cranberry, orange zest, and milk chocolate with an intensely spicy finish. Vines range from 50–120 years old. The wine spent 12 months in a combination of stainless steel and new and neutral French oak. 100% Grenache;14.7% ABV. Bodegas Paniza 2015 Garnacha de Pizarra The tasting circled back to DOP Cariñena for the final two wines. Ballesteros Torres spoke of the unique “llicorella” soils of Cariñena, comprised of fractured slate. Bodegas Paniza’s vines dive 10–15 feet in search of nutrients, and the grapes are fermented in stainless steel before spending eight months in French oak. Chocolate-covered strawberries and crushed slate-like mineral aromas; big, powerful, and expressive with massive concentration; sumptuous black fruits, black licorice, purple flowers, and a coffee-tinged, long finish. 100% Garnacha. Bodegas San Valero 2015 Tierra de Cubas Garnacha Cariñena Made with fruit from select old vines grown at 2,460 feet; fermented and aged in French oak. Sweet strawberry, red flowers, and fresh herbs. A spicy and vibrant wine with mouthwatering acidity, excellent fruit concentration, power, and energy with good structure. 80% Garnacha and 20% Cariñena.

Garnacha: A PERFECT PARTNER As the morning session gave way to lunch, two dozen producers from Australia, France, Spain, Sonoma, Lodi, and the Central Coast of California joined the panelists for a walkaround tasting of 50 wines. Attendees had the opportunity to contrast and compare wine styles from far-flung growing regions and pair them with the signature cuisines of Spain, France, and California. Although it grows only a small percentage of the variety—just under 1 percent of total plantings—Australia’s McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley are home to some serious old-vine material, with Yalumba’s 2012 Tri-Centenary Grenache (from vines planted in 1889) and the Yangarra Estate Vineyard Old Vine Grenache (from vines approaching 90 years) serving as prime examples.

Emma Brown of Penfolds with Bin 138, a Syrah/Grenache/ Mourvèdre blend from Barossa Valley vines as old as 100 years.

Comprised mostly of Grenache, the Murrieta’s Well Dry Rosé from California’s Livermore Valley is brilliantly toned with strawberry and jasmine.

The Orin Swift 2016 Abstract Grenache from Sonoma County is dense, lush, and concentrated with some Petite Sirah and Syrah blended in. { SOMMjournal.com }  99


Panelists for the afternoon “Garnacha Rising” seminar included (from left to right) Gilian Handelman of Jackson Family Wines; moderator Peter Granoff, MS, of Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant; Jay James, MS, SommFoundation Chairman; Haley Moore, Wine Director at San Francisco’s Stock & Bones Company; Pedro Ballesteros Torres, MW; Stevie Stacionis of retailer Bay Grape in Oakland, CA; and Emmanuel Kemiji, MS, owner of Miura Vineyards and Managing Director at Clos Pissarra.

Cult Grenache producer Joey Tensley of Tensley Wines in Los Olivos, California, poured his 2013 Colson Canyon Vineyard Grenache. When tasted side by side with Boutenac producer Château OllieuxRomanis’ 2013 Atal Sia, these two wines showed they have more in common than not with dark plum, pepper, licorice, and exotic spices galore. Stellar French examples included the Château Puech-Haut 2014 Prestige Rouge from 80-year-old vines in the SaintDrézéry AOP, the Famille Perrin 2015 Domaine du Clos des Tourelles Gigondas, and Domaine des Gravennes’ unoaked Côtes du Rhône, which supports Ballesteros Torres’ belief that “Châteauneuf-du-Pape [producers] are the real heroes of the variety because they allow oxygen during fermentation.”

A “Chameleon” Grape The focus of the afternoon session shifted from production to sales and consumer perception as moderator and Master Sommelier Peter Granoff of Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant put a panel of producers, retailers, and wine directors through

their paces. SommFoundation’s Jay James, MS; Gilian Handelman of Jackson Family Wines; Wine Director Haley Guild Moore of Stock & Bones Company; and Stevie Stacionis of retailer Bay Grape joined Ballesteros Torres and Kemiji, who rounded out the session. To help consumers discover the variety, Stacionis regularly navigates her clientele from lighter to heavier styles and steers her Pinot Noir and Syrah fans to other wines they’ll enjoy. “Grenache is a chameleon,” added Moore, who sees the grape as less varietal-centric, making it easier for consumers to enjoy it as part of a blend. As demonstrated by three wines tasted by the panel, serious efforts are underway to preserve Spain’s old-vine Garnacha. Both independent producers and cooperatives alike are paying growers the same amount to farm extremely-low-yielding old vines as they do for farming higher-yielding sites, opting

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for a “real-world” compensation approach that aims to ensure a solid future for the vines and their wines. Attendees tasted wines of old-vine Spanish fruit from Bodegas San Valero, which produces a lighter-bodied umamiand red fruit–driven wine, and Bodegas Paniza, which shows spicy red fruit and more apparent oak. “These are some of the first results of an ongoing process,” said Bodegas San Valero General Manager Pedro Fatas. In speaking to the less-extracted wine styles, Granoff pointed out the sweet/tart marker as a hallmark of typicity for the variety. This characteristic was noted in several of the wines tasted in the second flight, among them the 250-milliliter Ah-So canned rosé from Navarra, Spain. The sole Grenache Blanc in the lineup, a 2016 Tablas Creek, found a fan in Moore, who enjoyed its firm structure and found it particularly suited to


pairings. One red selected to represent the New World was Chris Skinner’s high-elevation Grenache from the El Dorado Hills’ Fair Play sub-AVA: The fruit for this medium-bodied wine is grown on granitic soils, so most of its emphasis can be found on the mid-palate with more restrained fruit. Bonny Doon’s 2017 Clos de Gilroy, meanwhile, utilizes Grenache from Alta Loma Vineyard in the Arroyo Seco region of Monterey County, as well as Rancho Solo outside Soledad, California. The wine was characterized by Grahm as “the Pinot Noir consumers are seeking—they just haven’t discovered it yet.” “Garnacha conveys a message,” Ballesteros Torres added. “It’s a long-season variety, and I question why producers are wasting the gift of a long, dry growing season on Pinot Noir.” Next from Down Under in McLaren Vale came a Yangarra 2014 High Sands Grenache, which weighed in with firmer tannins and deep, black fruit while possessing enough acidity to keep things fresh. Ballesteros Torres’ observation about aerobic winemaking was evident in the savory orange-zest and brown-spice flavors of the iconic Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe, a Grenache-dominant wine that includes Syrah and Mourvèdre. With an average age of 70 years, the vines grow on the stony plateau of La Crau

SommFoundation Director James Lechner and SOMM Journal Global Wine Editor Deborah Parker Wong lead a blind tasting at the summit.

in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. With global interest in the variety clearly on the rise, Ballesteros Torres’ parting words signaled a note of caution: “Don’t flood the world with Garnacha—think of its origins and plant wisely.” The summit concluded with a dramatic blind tasting; sponsored by The SOMM Journal, it was led by Global Wine Editor Deborah Parker Wong and SommFoun-

dation Director James Lechner. After 30 tasters doggedly attempted to identify the country of origin of six wines, Jay O’Leary from Jay’s-Wine-Stop and Susan Meyer of St. Supéry Estate Vineyards & Winery prevailed—winning $1,000 and $500, respectively. When asked how he had differentiated the wines, O’Leary said the noticeably different levels of acidity helped steer him in the right direction.

THE CARIÑENA CONTINGENT

A prestigious group of wine producers from Cariñena, Spain, attended the Global Garnacha Summit: In fact, The SOMM Journal’s alliance with these producers was the impetus for the conference. Pictured from left to right: Diego Pinedo of Bodegas Paniza; Pedro Fatas of Bodegas San Valero; Bob Bath, MS, Professor of Wine and Beverage Studies at the CIA at Copia; Jose Luis Campos of DOP Cariñena; Pedro Ballesteros Torres, MW; and Antonio Ubide, Ricky Ventura, and Head Winemaker Marcelos Morales of Grandes Vinos.

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July 13, 2018 Circulation: 90,000

Sip in Summer with Cariñena Whites and Rosé

Known as a prized winemaking region since the Roman era, Cariñena—the heart of Aragon in northeast Spain—is out to prove its roots expand further than just producing reds. With an extreme climate and favorable climate temperature, Cariñena is keeping some of the world’s oldest vines alive and thriving. A wide variety of quality fruits allows for a greater variety of wine to be produced. Cariñena might be associated with reds, but do not pass up their whites or rosés either. With temperatures rising as we enter the core of summer, cool off and relax with a Cariñena derived Chardonnay or 100% Garnacha-based rosé. The Chardonnay offers a lively acidity complimented by zesty citrus notes, while the rosé is light, fresh, and fruity. Both pair exceptionally well with a variety of foods and dishes making them the perfect go-to for a summer BBQ and picnic. But, if you need a little help deciding what to eat, check out this adventurous Migas recipe. Be sure to share your Cariñena experience with #CoolDownwithCariñena for a chance to be shared to their audience.


July 1, 2018 Circulation: 67.000

The Birthplace of Garnacha

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Offers the World Distinctive New Wines Cultivated From Old Vines

Carinena

Comes of Age Master Sommelier Bob Bath crouches among Garnacha vines of Bodegas Paniza in the highest and most remote part of southwestern CariĂąena, where slate-laden soils dominate most of the hillside vineyards.

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T

by Bob Bath, MS / photos by Miguel Vincente

here’s something wonderfully unique about Spanish wine, and, in my experience, it’s impossible to fall in love with a particular grape or wine: You fall in love with the entire region. My most recent affair is with Garnacha and its home region of Cariñena, located in Aragón in northeastern Spain. Though it lacks the notoriety of regions such as Rioja or Ribera del Duero—despite being the country’s second oldest DO—its connection to the Garnacha grape makes Cariñena a noteworthy experience based on its history, current winemaking, and future prospects. Local historical references to Garnacha in Aragón, the birthplace of the grape, date back to 1513 in Gabriel Alonso de Herrera’s Agricultural General. History, coupled with the sheer amount of clonal diversity and mutations of the grape in the region, counter any claims Sardinia has made of being its alternative place of origin. As the third most-planted variety in Spain, Garnacha has never lost its significance in the country. The region of Cariñena is renowned for having the highest density of Garnacha plantings, with the grape representing nearly a third of the entire vineyard acreage.

Local historical references to Garnacha in Aragón, the birthplace of the grape, date back to 1513 in Gabriel Alonso de Herrera’s Agricultural General.

Bob Bath, MS, tastes through a series of Garnacha samples at Bodegas Paneza.

Garnacha reached Sardinia, as well as southern France, likely by way of the Aragón empire. One of Europe’s most powerful regimes from the 15th through the 17th centuries, it spread as far north as southern France and as far south as Sicily. Such expansion explains the presence of Garnacha in regions such as Languedoc Roussillon and the Rhône. Zaragoza, Aragón’s historic capital, sits halfway between Madrid and Barcelona and is located on El Camino de Santiago. The globally-celebrated road leads to the legendary burial spot of St. James in Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, and is known as an inspiring pilgrimage for travelers to the region. As you step out of the beautiful Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar in Zaragoza, you immediately notice the path of seashells imprinted in the sidewalk, indicating the way. South of Zaragoza on a large plain in the heart of the Ebro Valley is where you will find the majority of Cariñena vineyards. Rimmed by the Systema Iberico { SOMMjournal.com } 77

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Zaragoza, Aragón’s historic capital, sits halfway between Madrid and Barcelona and is located on El Camino de Santiago. The Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar in Zaragoza, built between 1681 and 1754, is reputed to be the first church in history dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

Mountains to the south and the majestic, snow-topped Moncayo Massif to the north, vines are planted at 1,000 to nearly 3,000 feet above sea level. It only takes a brief visit to the Sanctuary of Nuesta Senora, just outside Paniza, to feel the Cierzo. This chilling wind provides a cooling diurnal shift for the entire region in the summer when temperatures can soar to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Soils in Cariñena vary from orange-brown, iron-laden clays to rounded stones (known as cascajos or cantos) and the fractured schist could lead you to believe you are standing in a vineyard in Priorat. A lack of rainfall after April and the ensuing heat during the summer months means ripening is rarely a challenge; the diurnal swings, meanwhile, ensure bright acidity and a natural balance in Cariñena’s wines. Old vines dominate the landscape.

Trained en vaso and dry-farmed, Cariñena possesses more old vines than anywhere in Spain. Many 80 years and older, these vines have survived two World Wars and the Spanish Civil War—not to mention the temptation of many producers to plant more recognizable and ultimately more profitable grapes. Although Garnacha is the region’s dominant variety, there are also significant plantings of Cariñena (Carignan), Tempranillo, and even Macabeo. Cooperatives are the lifeblood of Cariñena, with the largest three (Bodegas Paniza, Bodegas San Valero, and Grandes Vinos) responsible for 80 percent of production. The range of wine styles is impressive: from extraordinary-valued young Garnacha to dramatic expressions from old-vine Garnacha and fascinating Garnacha-based blends. Bodegas San Valero, established in

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its connection to the Garnacha grape makes Cariñena a noteworthy experience based on its history, current winemaking, and future prospects. 1944, is the oldest of the three major cooperatives. Situated near the town of Cariñena, it works with more than 600 growers spread across 8,600 acres. The Bodegas San Valero Particular range offers excellent value and has helped pave the way in popularizing Cariñena wine in the U.S. Grandes Vinos, the largest of the three co-ops, manages 10,000 acres of vineyards across all of Cariñena’s 14 sub-

districts. A leader in clonal research, the enologists at Grandes Vinos have identified four clones that are now mandatory for replantings in the region. Bodegas Paniza, meanwhile, resides in the most remote and highest part of southwestern Cariñena, where slate-laden soils dominate most of the hillside vineyards. Some of the vines here date as far back as 1906. Because it represents 400 different growers, one gets the sense that the entire

village of Paniza works for the co-op. Perhaps the greatest asset of this region is its humility; the growers, winemakers, and export directors demonstrate great pride in Cariñena and its wines. They are driven by a sincere desire to bring the world exceptional wines with a regional distinction: an effort that came to fruition at the Global Garnacha Summit this past April in Napa, California, and will continue in other U.S. markets later this year.

Old vines dominate the landscape at Bodegas San Valero in Cariñena.

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