Meet the FAMILIES of BORDEAUX
CONTENTS 4
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4 ABOUT BORDEAUX 6 CHÂTEAU ANGLUDET Margaux AOC 10 CHÂTEAU GUIBEAU Puisseguin Saint-Émilion AOC
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14 CHÂTEAU SIMON Graves AOC 18 CHÂTEAU DES TOURTES Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux AOC 22 CHÂTEAU DAUPHINE-RONDILLON Loupiac AOC 26 CÔTES DE BOURG Côtes de Bourg AOC
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30 CHÂTEAU TOUR DE MIRAMBEAU Bordeaux AOC 34 CHÂTEAU ROBIN Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux AOC 38 CHÂTEAU PÉDESCLAUX Pauillac AOC 42 NATH. JOHNSTON & FILS Négociants
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46 CONTACT US
THE TERROIR Bordeaux is located in Southwest France and is adjacent to the Atlantic Ocean. Bordeaux’s 65 AOC’s are segmented by three waterways: the Garonne and Dordogne rivers and the Gironde, a 50-mile-long estuary flowing northward into the Atlantic.
5,660 WINEGROWERS
273,792 ACRES
300 MERCHANTS
65 APPELLATIONS
29 COOPERATIVES AND 3 UNIONS
of planted vines
The largest French AOC vineyard region
55.5 MILLION CASES
Average annual production
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THE PEOPLE
77 BROKERS
A HARVEST BY MANY NAMES Thanksgiving
is a time-honored tradition that marks the end of the harvest season, a time to gather with friends and family, to serve classic dishes and favorite wines that comfort and warm. In Bordeaux, the harvest season is hard work, and the celebrations that follow are heartfelt and full of gratitude. The harvest party goes by many names depending on where you are in the region. Some mark the season with long-standing celebrations such as the Gerbaude (or Gerbebaude) and the Acabailles; family traditions such as the Vendanges du Coeur, and young traditions such as the Nuit du Terroir in Côtes de Bourg. The name matters less than the custom: the Bordeaux table is open to all. Everyone is family at the harvest table, from the châteaux owners and winemakers to pickers, suppliers, customers and friends. We asked 10 Bordeaux families to share their stories, traditions and challenges. The answers are a thoughtful reminder that Bordeaux is about the people who come together year after year to transform grapes into wine, finding much to be thankful for in the process. 5
CHÂTEAU ANGLUDET Daisy Sichel & Family 6
Margaux AOC
Daisy Sichel comes from a large
extended family with deep roots at Château Angludet in Margaux. She works in the family wine business with her father, James Sichel; uncles, Charles, David, Allan, and Benjamin (who also oversees winemaking); and cousins, Alexander and Max. The Sichel family legacy started with her grandparents, who purchased the Angludet estate in 1961.
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WHAT ARE YOU THANKFUL FOR? “Mother Nature! No mildew, no frost, no hail, fingers crossed for the coming years.” Daisy credits her father’s generation for reinforcing the importance of family: “Everyone has the same philosophy for the company: it is easier to speak, share and make things move. We don’t want to make any mistakes because it is a family business, and we want to work as hard as the previous generations to make it work for the next one. It can be stressful sometimes, but the nice thing is that the family will always have our back.” Beyond the vineyard, the Sichels love sports and train together for triathlons and marathons. Healthy competition is the norm, and Daisy and her cousins do their best to keep up with her father’s generation in all things, who are in her words “very, very good!”
CHEZ SICHEL CLASSIC FAMILY MEAL The classic “Entrecôte Frite” (Steak Frites) with a RÉSERVE D’ANGLUDET 2016.
“This wine is generous, refined and elegant; it has a wonderful story to tell on your palate.”
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CHÂTEAU GUIBEAU Brigitte Destouet & Family 10
Puisseguin Saint-Émilion AOC
Brigitte Destouet works
with her husband, Eric, at Château Guibeau in SaintÉmilion; she manages the vineyard and sales, while he oversees the technical side. Brigitte’s father mentored her in viticulture and winemaking, although she credits her grandfather for teaching her how to taste wine. Quiet and peaceful, château life centers around family, just as it has for five generations. Everyone lives on the property. Brigitte’s three school-aged children work the tractor and lend a hand in the vineyard; her mother cooks and welcomes guests to the property; and her father makes deliveries.
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WHAT ARE YOU THANKFUL FOR?
“I am thankful every year for my husband and my 3 children and our home. Château Guibeau is a quiet and peaceful place to stay, and each moment there is like a gift.”
Sunday lunch is a family affair with a festive ambience, featuring barbeque and wines specially sourced from a parcel of vines reserved for friends and employees. A branch of the family that emigrated to Mexico in 1862 still stays connected to Bordeaux, and many foreign cousins are often in residence at the château. When not at work, the extremely active Destouet family loves to play tennis, surf, ride horses and ski. For Brigitte, “our work is full of emotion” and the great advantage of being surrounded by family is to share in “life’s wonderful moments.”
CHEZ DESTOUET GRILL & GRAPEVINES We love to share Magret de Canard cooked on the wood of the vines. Our cousins from Mexico ask for it when they visit us. We also have a family cake named: le meilleur gâteau du monde (the best cake in the world!) It is made with café and chocolate. We love it with an aged wine. Try it with LE VIEUX CHÂTEAU GUIBEAU 2016
“Fruity and elegant with a nice rich character, this wine suits many dishes.”
AT THE HARVEST – THE GERBEBAUDE At the end of the harvest, the Destouets have their own Thanksgiving tradition, known as the Gerbebaude, an all-out party for friends and family to come together. 13
CHÂTEAU SIMON Sisters Pauline Dufour & Anne-Laure Dufour Bonnard Graves AOC Bordeaux 14 pg 9
Family Dufour has tended the vines and wines at
Château Simon in Barsac since 1814 – operating under the philosophy that Sauternes is for all to enjoy. Knowledge and experience handed down from each generation has allowed Château Simon to flourish across 82 impressive acres situated in the Barsac, Sauternes and Graves appellations. Sisters Anne-Laure and Pauline work together as cellar master and head of sales, respectively. The sisters grew up at Château Simon, and Anne Laure admits that they both have strong personalities. Their discussions are frank and honest, but in the end, they share the same quality approach as their father, JeanHugues Dufour, who ran the château for three decades. Now retired, he nurtured their exceptional terroirs and passed along his devotion to wine.
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WHAT ARE YOU THANKFUL FOR? “To work in this beautiful region with our family and to have the vines as our office! We are lucky to live among Nature and that our children have grown up in this wonderful environment.”
On festive occasions, the family opens older bottles of Sauternes, often with 20+ years of age. Meals last hours, with grand-père Jean-Hughes sharing harvest stories and tasting notes while the kids run around. The food is simple and satisfying, with local desserts serving up a sweet finish.
CHEZ DUFOUR A SECRET FAMILY RECIPE Locally, we have the Lampreys fish, fresh from the Garonne River. We have a secret family recipe, passed down through the generations, that uses red wine to bring out the flavor. Try it with CHÂTEAU SIMON GRAVES. “Our white AOC Graves makes a lovely aperitif, and pairs well with grilled fish or saucier dishes; goat cheese; and shellfish, like our amazing Arcachon oysters.”
AT THE HARVEST – ACABAILLES There are many occasions to come together for this food-loving family. They celebrate the end of harvest, or “Acabailles,” with a festive dinner in honor of the skilled pickers who come back yearafter-year to hand harvest the grapes. It is traditional to serve the freshest fermentation juice, or “Bourru,” the effervescent, young wine that will transform into Sauternes. 17
CHÂTEAU DES TOURTES
Sisters Marie-Pierre Lallez and Emmanuelle Miller (Raguenot) 18
Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux AOC
Château des Tourtes started as a 7-acre
property, first purchased by Lise and Philippe Raguenot in 1967, and planted to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and SĂŠmillon. Now in its second generation, their two daughters, Emmanuelle and Marie-Pierre, and their respective husbands, Daren Miller and Eric Lallez, have grown the estate to almost 190 acres of vines with an annual production of 500,000 bottles per year. 19
WHAT ARE YOU THANKFUL FOR?
“This year in particular helped us find ourselves again and look to the future: we put in place new strategies for our company and found new cuvées to bring to the market.”
The family embraces a French lifestyle with a decidedly global flair that has helped them build their export market on highly personal terms. Daren is originally from Pennsylvania, and it was a natural fit for his wife, Emmanuelle, to support U.S. growth with multiple market visits each year while also finding time to manage an office in China. Meanwhile, Marie-Pierre has long felt a kinship to southeast Asia and developed the family business in Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, Thailand and Myanmar. Over the past 5 years, she has also pursued the emerging market in western Africa, while her husband, Eric, the “artist of the family,” manages all viticulture and winemaking closer to home. The key to this family’s success is to get on well, pursue their passions around the world and in the vineyard, and above all to respect each other’s unique points of view. Whatever the future holds, their collective joie de vivre has inspired the family motto: “La vie est courte, buvons des Tourtes!!! Life is short, drink des Tourtes!!!”
CHEZ TOURTES BÛCHE DE NÖEL At Christmas, the family shares a traditional meal of oysters and sausages, turkey and the classic yuletide dessert, “Bûche de Nöel.” Try with a bottle of CHÂTEAU DES TOURTES ROUGE CUVÉE PRESTIGE 2016 “This wine is recommended for family gatherings and holiday celebrations! This is our top cuvée.”
AT THE HARVEST – VENDANGES DU COEUR Harvest is particularly animated. The Raguenot family hosts their yearly “Vendanges du Coeur” (Harvest from the Heart) with 250 guests of the winery on hand to harvest in the morning and press grapes by foot. The festivities include a luncheon apéritif and toast to the pickers, followed by the traditional ‘Entrecôte à la Bordelaise’ (steak and french fries), prepared by a local Chef. The afternoon includes blind tastings, workshops and walks through the vines, with proceeds donated to a school in Cambodia. 21
CHÂTEAU DAUPHINE-RONDILLON Sandrine Froléon & Family Loupiac AOC 22
Château Dauphine-Rondillon
is a family-run winery in AOC Loupiac with eight generations to build upon. Sandrine Froléon manages the estate with her brothers, Jean-Christophe and Philippe, Professor at the esteemed Bordeaux ISVV. Sandrine’s sister, Sophie, is their agent in Paris. A highlight of the work is sharing a meal together and tasting new releases with their extended families, which include 16 members of the 9th generation ranging from 2 to 27 years of age. The family hopes to inspire the next generation to join the winery business by pursuing new projects and ideas and staying connected through shared passions, like sailing.
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WHAT ARE YOU THANKFUL FOR? “For all the great people we have met thanks to our profession and for Mother Nature’s great generosity.”
The cousins spend time at the harvest or on the package line, and are often treated to a special cake, games or a football match to reward their efforts. It is a reminder of the joy daily life can bring by working together. For Sandrine and family, the best lessons are taught firsthand and they work hard to foster togetherness: “One great advantage to working with family is the capacity to transmit easily the knowledge and the terroir; the other is moral support.”
CHEZ FROLEON HEARTY HARVEST SUPPER A special Veau Marengo (hearty veal stew) cooked with a full-bodied Loupiac. For Thanksgiving, try CHÂTEAU DAUPHINÉ RONDILLON – CUVÉE OR 2015
“A wine that overflows in richness, generosity and expression. Family gatherings are made for strong emotions and heart-to-heart communication!”
AT THE HARVEST The family prepares and serves a meal for their estate workers every harvest season, a profound way to acknowledge their important contribution and the generosity of nature. 25
CÔTES DE BOURG Young Winemakers Association 26
Côtes de Bourg AOC
Jeunes Vignerons des Côtes de Bourg (the Young Winemakers
of Côtes de Bourg) is an association of 35 young winemakers with a progressive approach. All under the age of 35, they consider their group a “Family” that works together to promote discovery of their terroir and wines. In their opinion: “Bordeaux has many brave, young people making modern wines. Some members have a family winemaking legacy that dates back to the 1800s, while others are relatively new to the profession.” The Jeunes Vignerons lean on one another in work and in life, expanding their family reach to enrich their appellation. 27 26
WHAT ARE YOU THANKFUL FOR? “It’s the hardest year for a lot of us, but we can be thankful for everyone supporting us and drinking our wines.”
2020 has been a challenging year for many, making this group especially thankful for the support they bring each other. Les Jeunes get together often, rotating through cellars to share meals and wine. Each August they sponsor the “Nuit du Terroir,” a prelude to the busy harvest season.
LES JEUNES VINE BRANCH GRILL Beef is often on the menu when the young winemakers come together, grilled over vine branches for a wonderful taste and served with homemade pommes frites fried in duck fat as an awesome side. With 35 winemakers at the table, there is always a new bottle to try. CHÂTEAU HOCLET, CHÂTEAU MERCIER, and CHÂTEAU LAROCHE JOUBERT are a selection of wines that show off the particularities of our AOC.
AT THE HARVEST – NUIT DU TERROIR Each August Les Jeunes Vignerons sponsor the “Nuit du Terroir,” a prelude to the busy harvest season. Over 5,000 people take part in the August experience, where “French food and the young winemakers’ creations reign supreme.” It is the culmination and celebration of hard work, family ties and friendships that help this group confront the challenges of the wine profession as a united front. 29 Bordeaux pg 28
VIGNOBLES DESPAGNE Basaline Despagne & Family Bordeaux AOC 30
The Despagne family is is a multi-
generational wine business with three estates (Girolate, Château Mont-Pérat, Château Tour de Mirambeau) based in Entre-Deux-Mers. Basaline GrangerDespagne and her brother, Thibault, were 25 and 30 years old when their father, Jean-Louis, gave them full control of the family estates and the confidence to “surpass and believe in their dreams.” Endowed with an adventurous spirit and the belief that “the only thing certain in life is change,” Jean-Louis ran the Paris Dakar motocross twice (finishing in the top 20) and passed along his thrill for the next journey. Success has followed, and Famille Despagne wines are now sold in 25 countries. 31
WHAT ARE YOU THANKFUL FOR? “We are thankful to live in the beautiful Entre-Deux-Mers region and to raise our children in this environment. Also, in 2020 especially, we are particularly thankful for our family and for the trust and confidence of our customers and suppliers.”
Jean-Louis’ son, Thibault, runs the winemaking operation, and the family gathers frequently at Château Mont-Pérat. Basaline cherishes meals with her husband and the whole extended family: “Everyone participates to make the party even warmer and successful. Everyone loves to cook! We enjoy gathering family and friends to share good bottles of wine and to share those moments with the beloved. We love mixing generations, having the little ones running around, and the eldest catching this lively atmosphere in their eyes and heart.”
CHEZ DESPAGNE MUSSEL SOUP DE PAPA Mussel Soup by Jean-Louis…Veal Orloff by Odile… Crêpes from grandmother Yvonne… Meringues from grandmother Madeleine…Thibault’s grilling…Les Popotes (comfort food recipes) by Basaline. Try them all with a CHÂTEAU TOUR DE MIRAMBEAU 2019
“This wine is a very elegant white wine that suits food marvelously.”
AT THE HARVEST – THE GERBAUDE During the month-long harvest the family serves at least 30 meals daily, which culminates in the “Gerbaude,” the traditional meal to mark the end of the season. The table is open to all, from employees and vineyard pickers to suppliers, customers, friends and family. The next generation runs home from school to absorb the lively harvest atmosphere and to lend a hand in the work of the vineyard from sampling and picking to sorting the grapes. 33
CHÂTEAU ROBIN
Jan Thienpont & Family
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Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
Famille Thienpont is known for
their extensive range of wine estates throughout Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, including Vieux Château Certan, Le Pin, Château Puygueraud, Château Clos Fontaine, Château Bouty, Château Robin, L’Hetre, L’If, La Prade and Les Charmes Godard, in addition to three wine brokerages, Thienpont Wines in Belgium, Terroir de Crus-Jan & Florian Thienpont in Côtes de Francs, and Wings company in Bordeaux. The Thienpont family wine story started in 1842. A Belgian ancestor on royal commission to the King of Belgium was the family’s first wine merchant. Jan’s great-great grandfather acquired Château Troplong Mondot and Vieux Château Certan, and his grandfather purchased Château Puygueraud. There are 50 Thienpont cousins active in the 4th generation of the business, and true to the family legacy, they are not afraid to reinvent themselves. 35
WHAT ARE YOU THANKFUL FOR?
“This year, we are so thankful to be together and experience a beautiful harvest, maybe not in quantity but in quality.”
Jan and his brothers acquired Château Robin, rescuing it from “a state of abandon” to new glory. Sustainability is also a cherished family value, a lifelong passion which Jan credits to his early mentorship with Bordeaux luminaries, Francois Mitjavile of Tertre Roteboeuf, Stephane Asseo of Château Robin, and particularly, Thierry Valette of Clos Puy Arnaud, a principal figure in biodynamic winemaking. The Thienpont family comes together often, from simple occasions and big life events to birthdays and traditional holidays like Easter and Christmas. No matter the occasion, “big meals are involved, with lots of wine and good times!” Jan predicts that the next generation will want to pursue wine (although he insists that they make their own choices), and in the meantime there is always the next family adventure to consider. Jan and his brother Clemens lead the way; they are “fanatics” about mountain climbing and aspire to take the Thienpont name to new heights.
CHEZ THIENPONT
MARINATED BEEF & PRUNEAU
Marinated beef cheek with young, fondant (glazed) carrots and caramelized Pruneau d’Agen (Agen prunes are the dried fruit of the Ente plum tree from the Aquitaine region). Simple and so tasty! Try with CHÂTEAU ROBIN 2018
“This wine is the family’s first vintage since taking over the estate, like the wine, a gem in the terroir of Castillon!”
AT THE HARVEST – THE GERBEBAUDE The harvest launches each September with the “ban des vendanges” and closes with a festive “Gerbebaude,” the traditional dinner to thank friends and family for their hard work. 37
CHÂTEAU PÉDESCLAUX Manon Lorenzetti & Family Pauillac AOC 38
The legacy of Château Pédesclaux was carved in stone with the 1855 legislation. The Lorenzetti family acquired Pédesclaux in 2009 and is dedicated to living up to its impeccable pedigree. Manon Lorenzetti has followed in her father’s footsteps in running Pédesclaux, a passion which she hopes to pass on to her children someday. The family often comes together for Sunday meals, typically over a homemade Italian meal paired with local Bordeaux wines. The Lorenzetti recipe for risotto was a specialty of Manon’s grandfather, a dish which the whole family has mastered together with a drive for mutual success and harmony. Manon finds comfort in sharing her work and good times with family, and she strives to stay cool under pressure. 38 39
WHAT ARE YOU THANKFUL FOR? .
WHAT ARE YOU THANKFUL FOR? “I am thankful that my family is united in this difficult period and above all in good health.”
Shared family traditions such as their annual harvest lunch are an important occasion to build strong ties with the entire Pédesclaux team. Manon is forging a strong path forward for her family’s cherished estate and vineyards, and is more thankful than ever for the comradery and good health that surround her.
LORENZETTI’S FAVORITE RISOTTO DE GRAND-PÈRE My grandfather’s risotto is a family favorite. He taught us all how to prepare it, and we cook it together at every family meal. Enjoy it with 2015 FLEUR DE PÉDESCLAUX.
AT THE HARVEST Shared family traditions such as the Lorenzetti’s annual harvest lunch are an important occasion CHÂTEAU the wine to build strong ties with the entire Pédesclaux team. 40 41
NATH. JOHNSTON & FILS Négociants specializing in classified growths and Châteaux with proven excellence and production consistency 42
The Johnston family has a long
tradition to uphold in Bordeaux, dating back to 1734, when a Scottish ancestor created the namesake firm of “Nathaniel Johnston & Fils.” The company started on the négociant side and went on to acquire part of Château Latour and all of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou and Château Dauzac (no longer under Nath. Johnston & Fils ownership). A cherished family letter from 1804 records an early patron, none other than Marquis de Lafayette recommending their wines to General McHenry, Washington’s aidede-camp. Laure Johnston and her cousin Thomas are part of the 10th generation of the family, and together with her father Denis and uncles Archibald and Ivanhoé, they support a dynamic wine merchant company that has loyalists worldwide.
Patron de Lafayette recommends Nath Johnston & Fils to US General McHenry (1804) 40 43
WHAT ARE YOU THANKFUL FOR? “We are thankful for having our beloved in good health and for the evolution of the family company.” Laure works with her father in operations and finance, and admits that it can be stressful on younger generations to uphold such high standards. She is lucky to have her father as a mentor to transfer the knowledge and skills handed down over three centuries and finds inspiration in their family legacy. “Our company was founded in 1734 and we do our best to pursue our shared goal: to sell and promote quality wines.” The bonds they have forged over many shared glasses of wine have created a deep sense of trust and loyalty. With the 11th generation “on the way,” Laure is thankful for the good health and family that sustain her this holiday season and beyond.
CHEZ JOHNSTON VEAL & CÈPES A cherished family meal is Veal rib with “cèpes,” the local mushrooms we forage in the Médoc forest. Delicious with CHÂTEAU AMPELIA CASTILLON - CÔTES DE BORDEAUX.
“A result of sustainable viticulture and utmost respect for the environment, Château Ampelia showcases the great potential of Côtes de Castillon.”
AT THE HARVEST – THE GERBAUDE The Johnston family spend harvest-time in the fields and cellars, working with their winery partners to take in all the sights, aromas and excitement of the season. 45
CONTACT US
www.gregoryvine.com Helen Gregory, helen@gregoryvine.com Emma Mrkonic, emma@gregoryvine.com
www.bordeaux.com Cecile Ha, cecile.ha@vins-bordeaux.fr International Press Relations Offker, Conseil lnterprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux C.I.V.B.
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