Ricasoli in the Press - Jan through Aug 2020

August 2, 2020 Circulation: 10,000

900 Years Old and Still Going Strong: Ricasoli 1141 Continues to Innovate in Chianti Classico Wanda Mann When your family's winemaking history can be traced back to 1141, the family tree is bound to have some exciting twists and turns. In my recent Instagram Live chat with Francesco Ricasoli, we dug into the roots of his family's iconic winery, Ricasoli 1141. Not only are they Italy's oldest winery, Ricasoli 1141 is the fourth oldest family business in the world. The family tree includes Baron Bettino Ricasoli; not only did he serve twice as the Prime Minister of Italy and play a prominent role in its unification in 1861, but in 1872 he also developed the original formula for the wine we know today as Chianti Classico.

When travel is possible and prudent again, consider a visit to Castello di Brolio. Guests can enjoy wine tastings, guided tours of the cellar and vineyards, and meals at Osteria di Brolio.

Located in the heart of Tuscany's Chianti Classico region, in Gaiole in Chianti, Ricasoli's Castello di Brolio (Brolio Castle) sits majestically on 3,000 hilltop acres. 600 acres of the estate are planted to sustainably farmed vineyards, making it the largest estate in Chianti Classico under vine. In 1993, Francesco Ricasoli, 32nd Baron of Brolio, purchased back the family business after more than 20 years of foreign ownership.

His innovation and determination have enabled Ricasoli to reclaim their former glory and take their wine to new heights. By spearheading a total renovation and re-mapping of the vineyards, Baron Ricasoli was able to reveal how Sangiovese grapes display distinct qualities depending on soil type and altitude. This valuable information enables Ricasoli 1141 to produce a broad range of Chianti Classico wines that are true depictions of terroir.

During our chat, we discussed Ricasoli 1141's past, present, and future while sipping Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2015 ($70) and Casalferro Merlot 2008 ($70). Watch the video above, on IGTV, or YouTube to learn more, including Ricasoli's tasting notes and wine pet peeves.

Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2015 ($70) Representing the top tier of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, Ricasoli 1141 only produces Gran Selezione in the best vintages. A blend of Sangiovese (90%), Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), and Petit Verdot (5%), this is a robust but graceful expression of Chianti Classico. Beautifully balanced with a long finish.

Only produced in the best vintages, Casalferro Merlot 2008 ($70) is a single-vineyard Merlot. The grapes were planted in a former Sangiovese vineyard, leading Barone Ricasoli to describe the Merlot as "Chiantified." This is not an overly plummy Merlot, it is quite complex with a balanced interplay between fruit and minerality with a hint of spice. Rich but so very vibrant and fresh at 8 years old!

July 30, 2020 Circulation: 16,900

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July 29, 2020 Circulation: 16,900

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July 5, 2020 Circulation: 113,700

Are you missing vineyard visits during quarantine? Try a virtual wine tasting Morgan Hines The global pandemic is keeping oenophiles from gathering in bars or visiting vineyards. But vintners aren’t letting the wine tasting experience fall by the wayside. Instead, many wineries are offering virtual tastings.

Some ship wine to your door, then schedule a video call to walk you through a tasting, much the same as you’d find at a vineyard. Others are creating video series that wine drinkers can watch on demand. All are trying to adapt to the challenges of living and doing business amid the coronavirus crisis.

So how does a virtual wine experience work? Here are three that give a taste: Other brands, such as Tuscany’s Ricasoli 1141, have come up with their own unique ways to continue educating the public about their wine.

Francesco Ricasoli, 32nd Baron and the owner of Castello di Brolio, created a free YouTube video series called ”#madeinBrolio” to share the winery and estate’s history plus information on the winemaking process.

Ricasoli says the aim with the video series was to “open the doors” of Brolio castle to the world.

“Customers can understand Brolio more holistically than if we only focused only the technical aspects of the wine,” he says.

Ricasoli’s videos are digestible, mostly around one minute long though some, like the wine tasting video, are longer.

They’ve welcomed a few visitors to the estate, though they have a “long way to go” before things return to normal, Ricasoli says.

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Sunday, July 05, 2020 STROUDSBURG, PA 6,513 (60) Newspaper (S) 1,2 Out & About Francesco Ricasoli

Are you missing vineyard visits during quarantine?

Try a virtual wine tasting Morgan Hines USA TODAY

The global pandemic is keeping oenophiles from gathering in bars or visiting vineyards. But vintners aren't letting the wine tasting expe­ rience fall by the wayside. Instead, many wineries are offering virtual tastings.

Some ship wine to your door, then schedule a video call to walk you through a tasting, much the same as you'd find at a vineyard. Others are creating video series that wine drinkers can watch on demand. All are trying to adapt to the challenges of living and doing business amid the coronavirus crisis.

So how does a virtual wine ex­ perience work? Here are three that give a taste: Quintessa's 'Virtual Estate Experience'

Quintessa, a 280-acre estate in Napa Valley, offers a "Virtual Es­ tate Experience" as a wine tasting package. The tour and half-bottles of Quintessa's 2013, 2016 and 2017 vintages (shipped to your home) re­ tails for $300.

"We really wanted guests to feel immersed from the very beginning in the family history, our roots, our origin and the language of the land," says Megan Rogers, assistant man­ ager of guest services.

The personalized presentation lasts about 30 minutes and includes a bespoke tour, winemaking phi­ losophy and biodynamic farming practices.

Though Quintessa has reopened © 2020 USA Today All Rights Reserved.

to visitors, Rogers doesn't see an end to the vineyard's virtual experi­ ences. "There is still a need for (vir­ tual tastings), especially for guests who can't travel," she says.

Ricasoli 1141 's wine education videos

Other brands, such as Tuscany's Ricasoli 1141, have come up with their own unique ways to continue educating the public about their wine.

Francesco RjcasoH, 32nd Baron and the owner of Castello di Brolio, created a free YouTube video series called "#madeinBrolio" to share the winery and estate's history plus information on the winemaking process.

Ricasoli says the aim with the video series was to "open the doors" of Brolio castle to the world.

"Customers can understand Bro­ lio more holistically than if we only focused only the technical aspects of the wine," he says.

Ricasoli's videos are digestible, mostly around one minute long though some, like the wine tasting video, are longer.

They've welcomed a few visitors to the estate, though they have a "long way to go" before things return to normal, Ricasoli says.

Wine's virtual 'community giveback' tastings

Wine club Wine has offered free virtual happy hours on Instagram Live and Zoom; participants are encouraged but not required to pur­ chase bottles on the tasting sched-

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July 2, 2020 Circulation: 45,200

WHAT WE TASTED LAST WEEK #10 Nick Stock Italy dominates the podium this week as James has singled out a number of impressive wines, primarily from Tuscany. From the 2017 vintage, a pair of Chianti Classico Gran Selezione from Barone Ricasoli really impressed and there’s a continuation of the strong showing from the Tuscan 2016 vintage here too.

This week’s top wine is the Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Colledilà Gran Selezione 2017 (97 points) which delivered with its “racy and focused” style along with “precision and polish that is very impressive for the vintage.” The Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Ceniprimo Gran Selezione 2017 (96 points) plays on subtlety and palate length with “creamy and refined, yet structured” texture. A trifecta for Barone Ricasoli, they rated well from 2016 with the Chianti Classico Roncicone Gran Selezione 2017 (95 points) that is “so perfumed .. so aromatic .. full-bodied, yet the precise.”

The tastings this week also continued to reiterate that Tuscany’s 2016s are polished wines that are drinkable now and also age-worthy. The Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Tenuta Perano Rialzi Gran Selezione 2016 (96 points) really typifies this, as its is “beautiful now” and has “excellent potential.” The San Felice Chianti Classico Poggio Rosso Gran Selezione 2016 (95 points) delivers in a similar vein, “full-bodied, yet balanced and refined.”

The Frescobaldi Toscana Lamaione 2016 (95 points) sees merlot in full flight. James described it as “fullbodied with chewy yet polished tannins and a flavorful finish .. excellent pure merlot.” Another standout merlot from a high altitude (600 meters) in the form of the Ampeleia Merlot Costa Toscana Empatia 2016 also showcases the variety at its complete and complex best with the familiar mix of blueberry and truffle, mushrooms and violets on offer. An old vine parcel, James declared it a “fantastic wine with special energy.”

And an excellent syrah from Tua Rita reminds us that this grape too can find full voice among the Tuscan landscape. The Tua Rita Syrah Toscana Per Sempre 2018 (95 points) has “blue fruit, white pepper, dried flowers and stone” and makes a “full-bodied” impression with the potential to improve further with some time in the cellar.

A duo of 2017 vintage Vino Nobile wines from Avignonesi rated very well, again showing the refined delivery of powerful, structured and deeply flavoured wines form Tuscany. The Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Oceano 2017 (95 points) is “full-bodied, layered and rich, yet always in balance and energetic” and the Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Le Badelle 2017 (95 points) also “full and flavorful” with “solid tannins, but creamy in texture.”

From elsewhere, came an impressive duo of Bordeaux-style reds from RdV Vineyards in Virginia, USA. The RdV Vineyards Virginia Lost Mountain 2017 (95 points) is their top expression of cabernet sauvignon and showed “layered and pretty” style. The RdV Vineyards Middleburg Rendezvous 2017 (95 points) is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot and impressed with a “racy, fine-tannin line through the center palate.”

This week’s top wines are all about power and polish. Enjoy!

July 1, 2020 Circulation: 120,300,000

Are you missing vineyard visits during quarantine? Try a virtual wine tasting Morgan Hines The global pandemic is keeping oenophiles from gathering in bars or visiting vineyards. But vintners aren't letting the wine tasting experience fall by the wayside. Instead, many wineries are offering virtual tastings.

Some ship wine to your door, then schedule a video call to walk you through a tasting, much the same as you'd find at a vineyard. Others are creating video series that wine drinkers can watch on demand. All are trying to adapt to the challenges of living and doing business amid the coronavirus crisis.

So how does a virtual wine experience work? Here are three that give a taste: Ricasoli 1141's wine education videos Other brands, such as Tuscany's Ricasoli 1141, have come up with their own unique ways to continue educating the public about their wine.

Francesco Ricasoli, 32nd Baron and the owner of Castello di Brolio, created a free YouTube video series called "#madeinBrolio" to share the winery and estate's history plus information on the winemaking process.

Ricasoli says the aim with the video series was to "open the doors" of Brolio castle to the world.

"Customers can understand Brolio more holistically than if we only focused only the technical aspects of the wine," he says.

Ricasoli's videos are digestible, mostly around one minute long though some, like the wine tasting video, are longer.

They've welcomed a few visitors to the estate, though they have a "long way to go" before things return to normal, Ricasoli says.

June 26, 2020 Circulation: 1,965

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June 24, 2020 Circulation: 1,965

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June 11, 2020 Circulation: 213,600

How to Do Tuscany Right Brian Freedman

Tuscany is one of the few places in Europe that looks pretty much exactly as you’ve always imagined.

Rolling hills dotted with vineyards seem to stretch beyond the horizon. Restaurants at every price point offer reliably delicious meals. Excellent wine and olive oil are plentiful and often shockingly inexpensive, and a wrong turn down a narrow street more often than not results in stumbling upon some Renaissance or Etruscan ruin that you never would have found otherwise.

In other words, Tuscany’s riches don’t require much planning. The region is home to remarkable wine producers whose reds have pride of place in serious collections all over the world, the Michelin Guide has anointed a number of restaurants in Tuscany with their coveted stars, and accommodations from casually chic agriturismos to five-star hotels can be found throughout.

As with any renowned region, however, streets are increasingly clogged with throngs of tourists, hotel reservations can be difficult to come by in high season, and otherwise bucolic views in both the countryside and the cities can be obstructed by people, all of them seemingly snapping the same selfie at exactly the same moment.

All hope isn’t lost, however. With the right planning and a reasonable amount of flexibility, you can make Tuscany feel like your own private paradiso. Here’s how to do the region right.

Where to Drink Wine Tuscany’s most famous wine is Chianti, but even the most well-versed oenophile will find surprises among the offerings there. Producers like Querciabella, in Greve in Chianti, and Castello di Albola, in Radda in Chianti and set in a magnificent Medieval castle, offer public tours and tastings. Their wines, from SuperTuscans to age-worthy Chianti Classico Riserva Gran Selezione bottlings, offer excellent value for the quality at every price point. Brancaia, which is also in Radda in Chianti, has fantastic tours and a delicious new restaurant on-site, with all the salumi and pasta you could ever want to eat to fortify you for more tasting.

In the nearby town of Panzano in Chianti, the famous butcher-shop-slash-restaurant Antica Macelleria Cecchini draws carnivorous pilgrims from around the world. The gregarious Dario Cecchini offers three dining experiences, from the steak-centered Officina to the more snout-to-tail focused Solociccia to the more flexible Dario DOC. All three are delicious options, should be washed down with as much local Chianti in straw-covered fiaschi as you can drink (the restaurants provide it), and the first two are fixed price at 50 euros or less, which means you can control exactly how much you spend.

In San Gusmé, Tenuta di Arceno, a Jackson Family property whose wine is crafted by the Bordeaux legend Pierre Seillan (it’s a globalized world, even in rural Tuscany!), guests can sample their phenomenal range of Chianti, Super-Tuscans, and more. Lunch at AnoniMa X, a quick 10-minute drive away in Castelnuovo Berardenga, is a must, as is the tagliatelle with white ragout of the local Cinta Senese pork that they serve there.

The original Chianti recipe was created by Baron Bettino Ricasoli in 1872, and today, the picture-book castle and sprawling estate in Gaiole in Chianti is run by his ancestor, the 32nd Baron di Brolio, Francesco Ricasoli. Their single-vineyard Sangioveses are some of the best in Tuscany, the tour of the castle and grounds will win over kids and adults alike, and the restaurant on the property, the Osteria di Brolio, offers a sophisticated, beautifully presented lunch or dinner.

June 8, 2020 Circulation: 12,690

Mixed Case: Sheltering Sips (2 of ?)

Hope S. Philbrick 15 Tasty Sips Our Mixed Case series serves up an eclectic mix of recent ‘adult beverage’ discoveries.

Let our guide lead to new taste destinations.

Here we are, still working at home, 12 weeks later.

If, like us, you’re thankful for the little ways you can treat yourself during the Coronavirus pandemic and yet really appreciate everything you can experience that’s new and different, consider treating yourself to any of these adult beverages. Until you can safely get back out there, you can order for home delivery or call your favorite retailer and set up curbside pick-up.

Of course, these sips are still worth seeking out even once the all-clear is given. Until then, stay safe, wear a mask, and stay home as much as possible.

Cheers!

Alas, you may not be able to travel to Italy right now, but you can take a virtual trip to Tuscany thanks to the region’s most iconic winery, Ricasoli 1141. Baron Francesco Ricasoli and his team have launched a video travel series, #madeinBrolio, which showcases the people, vineyards, cellar, and secrets of the ancient Castello di Brolio in the heart of Chianti. We sampled two of the winery’s bottles: 2017 Ricasoli 1141 Brolio Chianti Classico fills the glass with intense ruby red. It sniffs of violet and spice, and slips smooth across the palate with soft tannins and flavors of dusty cherries, dried earth, cocoa, thyme, and nutmeg. Pair with lasagna Bolognese. Retails for approx. $22.

2016 Ricasoli 1141 Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva is a ruby red wine that whiffs of berry compote.

Pleasant flavors of blackberry, plum, cherry, and iron start soft and elegant, building to a robust finish. Try it with steak or pasta with a rich mushroom sauce. Retails for approx. $30.

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Sunday, June 07, 2020 WORCESTER, MA 30,526 (9) Newspaper (S) 6 Act Ricasoli

The battle for wine supremacy OFF THE VINE

I

AIVuona

first met wine enthusiasts Luisa and Lorenzo Penti back in 2004. In fact it was their shared passion for wine that brought them together in the first place. White, red, rose or sparkling, it really didn't matter - wine was their thing, period. Shortly after the two were married, they began amassing a collection of wines from around the world. Lorenzo's passion for Italian Chianti and sparkling wine was matched

by Luisa's penchant for reds such as merlot and malbec.

As the collection grew, so did their opinions about the wines they drank and how they were paired with food.

Luisa, a strong-willed Italian American from Long Island, has a temper that could bring the house down. She insists that pasta with red sauce should be paired with a soft, supple red such as malbec.

Lorenzo, who was born in Cortona, a small town within Tuscany in Italy, argues that Chianti, especially those from the Classico region of Italy, makes for the perfect pairing. Back and forth they go, neither willing to give an inch. Neighbors often close their doors and windows in order to avoid hearing

the strong language coming from the Penti home.

While Lorenzo uncorks a bottle of his favorite Italian Chianti, the Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Luiza makes a mad dash for the Colome Malbec from Argentina. Both wines are truly delicious and wellmade. The 2015 vintage of the Ricasoli Gran Selezione Chianti offers bright red fruit aromas along with cherry, plum and hints of vanilla.

Medium- to full-bodied with sweet tannins, balanced acidity and a long, persistent finish. A blend of sangio­ vese, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot, SRP $70.

Conversely, the 2018 Colome Malbec is pure and soft with plush fruit, hints of mocha and velvety tannins. SRP $18 The bickering has even affected their children, Federico and Angelina, as well. Both were born into a wine-loving family who unfortunately spend more time arguing over wine than drinking it. Angelina constantly pleads with her par­ ents to compromise but their sheer stubbornness results in hours of needless mudslinging.

Federico, on the other hand, chooses to simply lock him­ self in his room, avoiding any contact with the combatants.

Time and again tempers flare with Luisa insisting that a merlot such as the 2016 Duckhorn Napa Valley would best complement rigatoni, penne or ziti, while Lorenzo scowls in Italian, calling her

choice "disgustoso" or dis­ gusting. He feels strongly that a wine such as the 2016 Allegrini Palazzo dela Torre is superior. Though a departure from his beloved Chianti, it's nonetheless a luscious wine with cherry and licorice flavors that are complemented by the silky tannins and balanced acidity. On the other hand, the Duckhorn Napa Valley Merlot is equally sumptuous with abundant fruit and a silky smooth aftertaste.

Lorenzo's penchant for sparkling wine, especially Prosecco from Italy, has - excuse the pun - left an unpleasant taste in Luisa's mouth. His latest find, the Torresella Extra Dry Prosecco from Northern Italy, SRP $17, is quite flavorful with notes of pear and green apple. Again the exchange of insults and name calling escalates, leav­ ing both in a foul mood.

How is it that two lovebirds who found each other through their mutual appreciation of wine have suddenly become adversaries? The answer's quite simple. Both have cho­ sen to forgo all else in order to achieve something known as wine supremacy. This, of course, is not what true wine lovers aspire too, and nor should you. Cheers!

Wine of the Week: Glenelly Estate, 2016 Reserve Chardonnay, South Africa.

Rich gold color with lemon, lime and butterscotch flavors that are masterfully integrated.

A touch of almond is detected on the soft, lush finish. $25

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June 7, 2020 Circulation: 1,600,000

Off the Vine: The battle for wine supremacy Al Vuona I first met wine enthusiasts Luisa and Lorenzo Penti back in 2004. In fact it was their shared passion for wine that brought them together in the first place. White, red, rosé or sparkling, it really didn’t matter - wine was their thing, period. Shortly after the two were married, they began amassing a collection of wines from around the world. Lorenzo’s passion for Italian Chianti and sparkling wine was matched by Luisa’s penchant for reds such as merlot and malbec. As the collection grew, so did their opinions about the wines they drank and how they were paired with food.

Luisa, a strong-willed Italian American from Long Island, has a temper that could bring the house down.

She insists that pasta with red sauce should be paired with a soft, supple red such as malbec. Lorenzo, who was born in Cortona, a small town within Tuscany in Italy, argues that Chianti, especially those from the Classico region of Italy, makes for the perfect pairing. Back and forth they go, neither willing to give an inch. Neighbors often close their doors and windows in order to avoid hearing the strong language coming from the Penti home.

While Lorenzo uncorks a bottle of his favorite Italian Chianti, the Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Luiza makes a mad dash for the Colome Malbec from Argentina. Both wines are truly delicious and well-made. The 2015 vintage of the Ricasoli Gran Selezione Chianti offers bright red fruit aromas along with cherry, plum and hints of vanilla. Medium- to full-bodied with sweet tannins, balanced acidity and a long, persistent finish. A blend of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot, SRP $70. Conversely, the 2018 Colome Malbec is pure and soft with plush fruit, hints of mocha and velvety tannins. SRP $18 The bickering has even affected their children, Federico and Angelina, as well. Both were born into a wineloving family who unfortunately spend more time arguing over wine than drinking it. Angelina constantly pleads with her parents to compromise but their sheer stubbornness results in hours of needless mudslinging. Federico, on the other hand, chooses to simply lock himself in his room, avoiding any contact with the combatants.

Time and again tempers flare with Luisa insisting that a merlot such as the 2016 Duckhorn Napa Valley would best complement rigatoni, penne or ziti, while Lorenzo scowls in Italian, calling her choice “disgustoso” or disgusting. He feels strongly that a wine such as the 2016 Allegrini Palazzo dela Torre is superior. Though a departure from his beloved Chianti, it’s nonetheless a luscious wine with cherry and licorice flavors that are complemented by the silky tannins and balanced acidity. On the other hand, the Duckhorn Napa Valley Merlot is equally sumptuous with abundant fruit and a silky smooth aftertaste.

Lorenzo’s penchant for sparkling wine, especially Prosecco from Italy, has - excuse the pun - left an unpleasant taste in Luisa’s mouth. His latest find, the Torresella Extra Dry Prosecco from Northern Italy, SRP $17, is quite flavorful with notes of pear and green apple. Again the exchange of insults and name calling escalates, leaving both in a foul mood.

How is it that two lovebirds who found each other through their mutual appreciation of wine have suddenly become adversaries? The answer’s quite simple. Both have chosen to forgo all else in order to achieve something known as wine supremacy. This, of course, is not what true wine lovers aspire too, and nor should you. Cheers!

June 6, 2020 Circulation: 561

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June 5, 2020 Circulation: 3,470

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June 3, 2020 Circulation: 5,500,000

What's Next in Wine's New Normal?

James Lawrence The Covid-19 pandemic has been a gift to global media – it's open season for doom-laden stories.

Yet, while newsrooms grapple with global death tolls, columnists and experts bury themselves in speculative journalism.

Related stories: Expensive Wine Sales Eclipsed by Hard Seltzer Premium Wine Falls Victim to Coronavirus Wine Sales Defy Doom and Gloom What lasting lifestyle changes will the pandemic bring? What is the scale of global recession we're heading into and how quickly will nations like the US recover? When is British Prime Minister Boris Johnson's advisor Dominic Cummings destined for the chop? Different opinions, like sex-crazed stampeding buffalo, are running wild.

Mixed messages The wine industry is not exempt from this paradigm. Yet analysts are in complete agreement about one thing: lockdown has fast-tracked consumer trends that were in their infancy before the coronavirus became world news. Wine, beer and spirit categories have all benefited from a sharp rise in online sales in the US and UK markets, while Champagne and esoteric labels have suffered. E-commerce is now critical for businesses and many wineries, particularly in the US, will seek to grow their DTC sales. New formats and online communication will become increasingly important – all uncontroversial, reasonable assumptions.

"Light wine is performing well – red, white, and rosé. Well-known brands are doing particularly well, reflecting some of the shopping pressures consumers are under. They are unable to spend dwell time in aisles with social distancing and we are seeing a tendency for them to buy what they know or names they have heard of," reports Patrick McGrath MW, MD of Hatch Mansfield, a leading UK wine importer.

"Some of our markets have totally ceased purchasing Brunello, postponing their orders to June. However, I think the desire to have a nice lifestyle will return faster than expected. Super-expensive wines will probably suffer, however, if we are able to keep the prices at the right level, we could have a good season of sales," adds Emilia Nardi, owner of Tenute Silvio Nardi This brand of foretelling and forecasting has become ubiquitous. Everyone has an opinion on the longerterm consequences of Covid-19; some organizations charge for this advice, now greatly in demand. Luckily for the recipients of wine clairvoyance, there are no shysters in the analyst business. No traveling gypsy women, poised to rob you blind in return for the promise that you're destined to marry Camilla Parker Bowles. Nevertheless, there are some noticeable points of disagreement between analysts and experienced members of the wine trade. The question is: who should we trust?

The IWSR has been at the forefront of this movement to predict consumer trends in 2020 and beyond. In its analysis piece entitled Drinking in an Economic Downturn, the report states: "The last economic crisis saw a 'shake-out' of small brands from retail as operators sought to maximize returns, which [CEO] Mark Meek believes will happen again."

He also predicts that China will be vital to the growth in future demand for wine. "China is likely to provide a boost, especially if no further outbreak occurs, but Russia, India and Brazil will likely not provide as much of the demand this time around," observes Meek.

"Despite Covid-19, we will continue investing in developing the Asian market, an extremely important opportunity for the fine wine segment," adds Ornellaia's CEO Giovanni Geddes da Filicaja.

Winners and losers Other Italian producers are more cautious. Francesco Ricasoli, president of Ricasoli, believes: "A deep recession is inevitable at a global level and sales of top-end wines will surely be affected, as well as fine dining. I think the Horeca [hotels, restaurants, catering] sector will unfortunately be struggling for one year and a half, maybe longer."

However, Meek argues that mainstream premium brands will suffer the most acute loss of market share, with value and luxury segments possibly thriving. Referencing the 2008 economic crash, the IWSR report observes: "We can expect history to repeat itself as the economic consequences of the pandemic shrink disposable incomes, with consumers gravitating to value products, the wealthy still treating themselves, and average- priced brands representing the squeezed middle. High-end products will likely remain stable and could even grow, especially as an investment."

There is much divergence on this valuable piece of forecasting. Opinions run the gamut from "nothing will drastically change", to "the high-end segment is kaput". For many members of the trade, the former is clearly wishful thinking.

"If only we had a crystal ball," says a representative from Jackson Family Wines.

"It's hard to predict, but we remain hopeful that consumers will continue to explore, seek out and buy wines at all price points as they have in the past. They will simply be doing this through different mediums."

Resisting moderation There is also disagreement hanging over the subject of abstinence and moderation. Pre Covid-19, media outlets ran numerous stories concerning the younger generation's growing love of teetotalism. A study unveiled in 2018 by a leading university in London suggested that the proportion of 16- to 24-year-olds who shun booze increased from 18 percent in 2005 to 29 percent in 2015.

The pandemic has changed how Millennials particularly look at wine.© Washington Wine | The pandemic has changed how Millennials particularly look at wine.

Cue much handwringing and a rash of low and alcohol-free products released into the market – particularly from the brewing industry. However, wine has historically struggled to compete in this sector of the market, not least because alcohol-free Cabernet is undrinkable. But some members of the trade are arguing that Covid-19 may help to lure younger drinkers back to the joys of alcohol, through the medium of sharing wine.

"One good thing to come out of Covid-19 is that we will arguably see a reversal in abstinence trends – which have been growing particularly among younger people – and are one reason why there has been a longer-term decline in still wine consumption across Europe. Alcohol at home will be one of the few pleasures people can still access, and once it all dies down, many will not want to forgo this treat," opined a member of the trade, who preferred to remain anonymous.

Of course, this person was not advocating irresponsible drinking, but there is merit to the idea of households forming longer-term habits to the benefit of wine brands. As multi-generational families are living together – in some cases for the first time in many years – wine will likely be reintroduced as a staple of mealtimes and socializing. Will this fun pastime be so quickly relinquished after lockdown ends? Will exercise and abstinence hold the same appeal to Millennials?

A change of habit

According to Wine Intelligence, Millennials and Gen-X drinkers have increased their frequency of wine consumption during the 2020 lockdown. However, a critical mass of Millennial consumers are being buoyed by temporary furlough payments; recession purchases may be less frequent and made at lower price points.

But this doesn't mean that drinking will be abandoned altogether.

"I agree with this idea of wine becoming more established in people's lives," says Ruth Simpson, co-founder of Simpsons Wine Estate.

"My husband and I have always seen wine as a drink to share together, or with friends and family accompanying a meal, so with the lockdown forcing a lot of households to pause, cook together and eat together, wine has become that essential accompaniment."

In the short term, most analysts recognize that consumers are currently prioritizing comfort and immediate gratification over issues such as moderation and health & fitness. Yet the IWSR believes that this is a temporary change.

"As social distancing and lockdowns peter out, many consumers will revert back to wanting to drink less but better, and will keep pushing the trend of moderation and wellness. If anything, this crisis will likely only add to the momentum of low- and no-alcohol options in the long term," argues a IWSR spokesperson.

The pointlessness of prophecy Others regard the speculative business as self-indulgent, futile and disingenuous.

"A whole industry has been created to predict the future and yet it generally achieves the accuracy of a sixmonth weather forecast. People love to be told what the future holds, yet seldom look back and see if the predictions were even in the same ballpark," says wine buyer Peter Mitchel MW. "At the moment we have no idea where this is going to end up and so much depends on how quickly things re-open and whether public confidence recovers quickly – both of which are unknowable at present. But I don't see the current situation having any long-term effect on total drinking, which has been in steady decline for years."

Nevertheless, the overall mood among members of the wine industry – particularly in the retail/online sector – is generally upbeat. Or at least sanguine. Opinions differ greatly as to the longer-term ramifications of Covid-19, yet everyone I've spoken to recognizes a silver lining. We have all witnessed the world of wine embrace and recognize the value of the digital space, finally catching up with other industries. Smaller retailers are fighting hard to survive, adapting their business models and growing their customer base as a result. Moreover, the industry has generally been more supportive of each other – a continuation of this will be a very good thing for the wider trade.

"The lockdown has provided the reassurance of knowing that our sales strategy of having many diverse channels to market has been the right one. It has been a sobering reminder never to put too many eggs in one basket," says Ruth Simpson.

A reversal of the moderation/abstinence trend and a turn towards wine is debatable, but it is inarguable that Covid-19 has forced an industry re-evaluation – and a welcome spurt of innovation – which will be indispensable in the years to come.

May 18, 2020 Circulation: 173,700,000

Seven Wonderful Wines For Memorial Day Weekend John Mariani No matter how restrictive the current pandemic, I hope that many of us will acknowledge the sacrifices made in other times by Americans this Memorial Day and celebrate, with social distancing, by drinking a good wine with which to toast our ancestors.

CASTELLO DI BROLIO CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE 2015 ($70)—Very much a classic yet in a modern, velvety, fruit forward style for a Chianti Classico in the Gaiole district. Brolio’s Ricasoli family has been at this a very long time, so you get complexity throughout from a mix of 90% Sangiovese, and 5% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. A very good wine for grilled pork or beef ribs.

May 14, 2020 Circulation: 19,800

Instagram @therealhousewine

May 14, 2020 Circulation: 2,107

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May 13, 2020 Circulation: 94,400

Afternoon Brief: Wine Adjusts to Evolving Marketplace Amid Pandemic VINEYARD & WINERY Introducing Maison No. 9: A New French Rosé Created by Post Malone & Global Brand Equities RedHead CEO, Partner Buy L'uva Bella Winery Baron Francesco Ricasoli Presents #MadeInBrolio Bedford County Winery Fares 'Better Than Expected' During String of Recent Frosts The Lure of Provence: Château Bas Sold to Bordeaux-Based Buyer

May 11, 2020 Circulation: 10,000

Walking the Vineyards with Francesco Ricasoli Lori Budd Located in the center of Chianti Classico stands an impressive castle that dates back to the middle ages.

The Brolio Castle is the home of the oldest winery in Italy and the once home of Baron Ricasoli. The Ricasoli family has played an important role in not just the Chianti wine industry but also to the existence of Italy as a unified country itself.

On today’s episode, join me as we were guided through the vineyards and the winery by Francesco Ricasoli himself.

May 8, 2020 Circulation: 94,400

Baron Francesco Ricasoli Presents #MadeInBrolio NEW YORK, N.Y. – Beginning April 24, Baron Francesco Ricasoli will introduce #madeinBrolio—a video series that transports at-home viewers straight to Tuscany. The candid, one-to-two-minute videos will reveal behind-the-scenes footage of the historic Castello di Brolio: the inner workings of the people, vineyards, cellar, and secrets of the ancient castle.

The #madeinBrolio series aims to reach those who are experiencing drastically different daily routines and offer some relief in the form of lighthearted content. The man behind the project, Francesco Ricasoli, explains: “I would like to convey a message of beauty and hope to all those who hold Italy near and dear.

We plan to take viewers along with us in our journey and introduce them to our world. Travel and wine enthusiasts will have a story to remember about Tuscany, even in the year 2020.”

More than ten videos are already in development, with the first one launching today. Viewers can find subsequent videos announced and posted on the Francesco Ricasoli @francescoricasoli and @Ricasoli1141 Instagram pages, as well as on Facebook and Youtube, always accompanied by the hashtag #madeinBrolio.

The Ricasoli family and their Tuscan estate, Castello di Brolio, have been indisputable leaders in Chianti Classico since 1141. Each year, this magical and historic destination attracts more than fifty thousand visitors from around the world. With the international lockdown currently in place, travelers and wine lovers who can no longer experience the unmistakable beauty of Tuscany in person can tune in to #madeinBrolio and virtually experience the unique world of Chianti Classico and Castello di Brolio.

For more information about the #madeinBrolio video series or to request an interview with Francesco Ricasoli, please contact Emma Mrkonic (emma@gregoryvine.com).

About Ricasoli 1141 Ricasoli is the most historic and representative wine producer in Chianti Classico DOCG. Francesco Ricasoli, the 32nd Baron and owner, leads the estate and winery where he continues the Ricasoli family legacy. The Brolio estate extends over 3,000 acres north of Siena, including 580 acres dedicated to Sangiovese. Castello di Brolio is an idyllic destination for wine and hospitality, offering guided wine tours, an Osteria with seasonal Tuscan fare, and scenic guesthouse accommodations. Ricasoli produces an exceptional range including four Gran Selezione wines, along with Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva, and Toscana IGT labels. For more information about Ricasoli, please visit www.ricasoli.com.

April 15, 2020 Circulation: 2,300,000

Wine Guy: A virtual vinous tour of Italy Rich Mauro As I worked through my recent tastings of Italian wines, I couldn’t help but think about that country being shut down. So I started to envision my tastings as a virtual tour since traveling there isn’t an option.

I start my virtual vinous tour in Tuscany, specifically Chianti — the region and the wine.

The primary grape in Chianti wines is sangiovese. Typically, it yields fresh, medium-bodied wines with lively cherry (and sometimes plum, currant and raspberry) and a sense of elegance. Sangiovese often is blended with small percentages of native varieties such as canaiolo, colorino, malvasia nera, ciliegiolo and, lately (under loosened production rules), cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit Verdot.

Compared with the quality available, the wines are exceptional values. Those labeled Chianti are solid everyday varieties. The designation Chianti Classico indicates the wine comes from the original zone, which often is considered to produce the best wines. Wines labeled Riserva usually are selections of the producer’s finest fruit and receive extended time maturing in barrel and bottle before release. I also found several wines from the Chianti Rufina zone, which generally is considered to be the best sub-region after Chianti Classico.

Excellent selections • 2013 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ($70): Yet another medieval estate (founded in 1141); a selection of the best grapes from the estate vineyard; intense, bright fruits, toasty oak, mocha, licorice; firm, luscious palate, assertive tannins.

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An internal view of the wine museum in Greve in Chianti, near Florence, Italy.

Wednesday, April 15, 2020 COLORADO SPRINGS, CO 35,448 (85) Newspaper (D) 2 Life Brolio Chianti Classico

PHOTOS BY THE ASSOCIATED PRESS Another view of the wine museum in Greve in Chianti, near Florence, Italy.

The primary grape in Chianti wines is sangiovese.

Enjoying a virtual vinous tour ofItaly WINE GUY

RICH MAURO As I worked through my re­ cent tastings of Italian wines, I couldn't help but think about that country being shut down. So I started to envision my tastings as a virtual tour since traveling there isn't an option.

I start my virtual vinous tour in Tuscany, specifically Chianti - the region and the wine.

The primary grape in Chianti wines is sangiovese.

Typically, it yields fresh, medium-bodied wines with lively cherry (and sometimes plum, currant and raspberry) and a sense of elegance. San­ giovese often is blended with small percentages of native varieties such as canaiolo, colorino, malvasia nera, ciliegiolo and, lately (under loosened production rules), cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit Verdot.

Compared with the qual­ ity available, the wines are © 2020 GAZETTE All Rights Reserved.

exceptional values. Those labeled Chianti are solid everyday varieties. The designation Chianti Classico indicates the wine comes from the original zone, which often is considered to produce the best wines.

Wines labeled Riserva usually are selections of the producer's finest fruit and receive extended time ma­ turing in barrel and bottle before release. I also found several wines from the Chianti Rufina zone, which generally is considered to be the best sub-region after Chianti Classico.

Outstanding selections

• 2016 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva ($36): Organically grown and vinified grapes from this historic ''Abbey of Good Harvest" estate (founded in 1051); concentrated, lively fruit; graceful, elegant, balanced, nicely integrated, smooth tannins.

• 2015 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina "Vigneto Bucerchi­ ale" ($36): Another property with a history dating to medieval times, now certified organic; 100 percent sangiovese; exuber­ ant, minty, woodsy, earthy

notes, herbs, smoke, licorice; elegant, refined tannins.

Excellent selections

• 2013 Castello di Brolio Chjantj Classjco Gran Selezi­ one ($70): Yet another medi­ eval estate (founded in 1141); a selection of the best grapes from the estate vineyard; intense, bright fruits, toasty oak, mocha, licorice; firm, luscious palate, assertive tannins.

• 2013 Nipozzano Vecchie Viti Chianti Rufina ($30): From another 11th-century estate; follows a tradition of reserving a private collec­ tion for each newborn child in the family from the oldest vines ("vecchie viti"); ele­ gant, polished, complex.

• 2015 Brolio Chianti Clas­ sico Riserva ($30): Sunny fruit, spice, mocha, smoky; integrated and balanced, tight structure, graceful tannins.

• 2015 Querciabella Chianti Classico ($30): Founded in 1974; made with 100% estate-grown organic san­ giovese grapes; creamy oak, espresso, tangy ripe fruit, earthy, herbal, rounded finish.

Very good selections

• 2014 Ruffino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale Oro ($41):

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April 14, 2020 Circulation: 5,000

WINE OF THE DAY: BARONE RICASOLI BROLIO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA From rolling Tuscan hillsides in the heart of Chianti emerges a wine with a modern flair, while maintaining the traditions set forth for generations before them. Since 1141 the Ricasoli family has produced wine in the commune of Gaiole, Chianti, Italy, in Brolio Castello, a spectacular castle overlooking their sustainably farmed vineyards that range in elevation from 800-1500 feet. The oldest wine producer in Italy, the Ricasoli family played a significant part in the development of the original formula for Chianti that became the standard, now known as Chianti Classico.

From a blend of 80% Sangiovese with 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, Chianti Classico Riserva ($30) melds intense black and red fruit together with toasted spice, savory balsamic, and dried herbs with a soft floral note on the finish. The wine is big, bold, and broad, making it perfect for braised or grilled meat dishes, but there is also a nice freshness, highlighting a restraint in the winemaking, truly allowing the fruit to shine in its own splendor.

April 3, 2020 Circulation: 18,870

2015 Barone Ricasoli Italian (Tuscany) Red "Brolio Chianti Classico" Ken Hoggins Winery: Barone Ricasoli Vintage: 2015 Wine Name/Vineyard: "Brolio Chianti Classico" Wine Category: Italian (Tuscany) Red Grape blend: 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot & 5% Cabernet Sauvignon Bottle size: 750 ml Region: Chianti Classico State or country: Italy Price: $22 Cases produced: 60,900 KWG Score: 91.4 (based on 5 reviews) Ken's Wine Rating: Very Good (89) Review date: November 6, 2018 Wine Review: This dark red colored Chianti Classico from Baron Ricasoli is very good. It opens with mild cranberry and black cherry bouquet. On the palate, this wine is medium bodied, balanced and juicy. Like the nose, the flavor profile is a mild oak, cherry and gentle cranberry blend with notes strawberry rhubarb.

The finish is dry and fades away nicely. This wine is very food friendly and versatile. It will pair well with Italian dishes. I paired it with a sweet sausage red sauce over cheese tortellini. Enjoy – Ken Winemaker Notes: Intense ruby color with notes of red fruit, vanilla, and liquorice complement a complex mouthfeel with a long, mineral finish.

Buy it: Use 1000 Corks to find stores that sell Barone Ricasoli 2015 Brolio Chianti Classico.

April 2, 2020 Circulation: 2,130

How The Wine World Is Coping With Coronavirus Amanda Barnes Members of the Circle of Wine Writers take a look at their regions, or regions to which they have recently travelled, to share some insight into how the wine world is coping with Coronavirus and the impact of lockdown and social distancing on their businesses.

EUROPE Italy Conegliano Valdobbiadene Michèle Shah reporting from Tuscany in Italy, one of the worst affected countries by the virus so far, and shares the perspective from an industry and nation which has been living with the virus and its effects for much longer than most.

Italy was the first European country to be gripped by Coronavirus. It’s lockdown which was imposed on a national level on 9th March has led to many sectors having to adjust to the safety measures, logistics and economics of a totally new existence.

Agriculture is one these sectors. In fact, it is one of Italy’s main sources of GDP. Food and wine exports equate to some 50% of production and €44 billion in export value, of which its wine business is said to be worth €6.4 billion.

Recent concerns include the quantities of wine that are resting and still stocked in the cellars of wineries waiting to be bottled and the thought of a new harvest this autumn, which could mean that producers would not be able to fit the usual quantity of wine into their cellars. While one appellation is already being warned to cut down on quantities, others are already considering distillation measures.

“It’s still too early to say. However, from the data we have we know that there are 59 million hectoliters of wine in stock in Italy. Considering that a standard vintage produces about 44 million hectoliters, we have more than one vintage, almost a year and a half, in stock, says Andrea Sartori, president of Consorzio Valpolicella and CEO of his family winery, Sartori, in the Valpolicella area. According to Sartori, the largest stocks are in Veneto, which has a quarter of the total, followed by Puglia and Emilia Romagna. “It is clear that table wines and generic IGT will be preferred for distillation, however, I would not be surprised if Pinot Grigio or Prosecco DOC have the same problems. It is a serious matter and I honestly do not know how, from a technical point of view, Europe and the ministry will deal with the matter.”

The risk for the wine trade (and hospitality sector) is a recession. “Wine tourism, especially important to Tuscany, is already completely blocked and what is lost, is lost forever and not recoverable in the coming months. The economic and financial consequences will bring some wineries to their knees,” says Francesco Ricasoli, CEO of prominent Chianti Classico estate Castello di Brolio. This is a scenario that is worrying many wineries across Italy’s 20 wine-producing regions. The hills of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, known for their breathtaking landscape and heroic viticulture, had great expectations for wine tourism this year, as a new UNESCO World Cultural Heritage destination, “All those who booked to come to our beautiful hills have had to cancel,” says Giancarlo Moretti Polegato, president of Villa Sandi’s premium Prosecco estate.

Trade shows worldwide have been postponed and cancelled as governments have imposed strict measures to slow the spread of Coronavirus. Vinitaly, Italy’s largest trade show which had initially been

postponed, has been cancelled after much debate. The trade is hoping that events, tastings and press trips will pick up again during the summer months.

Not surprisingly, supermarket wine sales have risen sharply over the past two weeks under lockdown.

Reports have shown that depending on the category of wine, there has been between a +11% and +17% increase in sales for IGT and DOC/G wines, while fortified wines and passitos have dropped by -15.7% and champagne even further by -53.2%. Online wine sales have shot up despite the difficulties of logistics of home deliveries. Lockdown also means the closure of Italy’s vibrant restaurant trade reducing the consumption of premium Italian wine.

Looking on the brighter side, Italy is still exporting its wines globally, however, delivery and shipments have slowed down considerably. According to Renzo Cotarella, CEO of Tuscany’s flagship winery, Marchesi Antinori, shipments to foreign countries are in difficulty. Transport on wheels, has the additional problem of long queues, the safety of drivers and possibly the observance of quarantine. “Yet there is a strong empathy for Italian wine,” assures Ricasoli.

Looking ahead, there is concern regarding the tightening of borders preventing the employment of visiting workers. A quarter of Italy’s agriculture depends on foreign workers and that includes vineyard work and harvesting under – the latter is fortunately still some months away.

According to Coldiretti Associazione (Farmers’ Association), agriculture legally employs some 370,000 overseas workers annually.

A positive outlook comes from Gaia Gaja regarding the future of Italian wine, which she says will prevail thanks to Italy’s model and the efficacy of family wineries, which are more flexible. In this moment of need, where manpower may be essential to keep things running, she believes family members will strive to unite to keep their vineyards and cellars working.

April 2, 2020 Circulation: 9,090

IN SEARCH OF TUSCANY’S QUINTESSENCE-SANGIOVESE AT RICASOLI Harvey Finkel The iconic grape of central Italy is undoubtably the Sangiovese, which reaches its apogee in central Tuscany. But it was not ever so, nor is it everywhere. So variable is the variety, depending on clone, conditions, and treatment, that we can pick out a few foci of excellence where the wines of this difficult and generous grape come nearest to expressing their theoretical ideal. Brunello di Montalcino, Carmignano, Chianti Classico, Chianti Rufina, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and a number of what have come to be called “Supertuscans” qualify. Notice they are all neighbors. Sangiovese merits superstardom nowhere else in the world. Even among this elevated company, the character and quality of the wines continue to be refined.

The Ricasoli family has long stood in the forefront of Tuscan viticulture, recorded at least since 1141 in possession of Brolio Castle and its vineyards. Barone Bettino Ricasoli, the second prime minister of a recently united Italy, brought order to the anarchy of the original core of Chianti Classico, in 1872 codifying its recipe and crowning Sangiovese as king. After distinguished decades of leadership, followed by disappointing relationships with Seagram’s, then Hardy’s, the firm, again under total control of the Ricasolis since 1993, has been rejuvenated as a vinously progressive force. Francesco Ricasoli, the 32nd Barone, is at the helm.

The 12OO-hectare Ricasoli estate is located in the Chianti Classico township of Gaiole in Chianti, centered at Brolio Castle, just northeast of Siena. It contains 24O hectares of vines, 26 of olive groves. The castle contains what is said to be the oldest working winery in Italy, second-oldest in the world. It is, of course, now technically thoroughly modern. Most of the vineyards lie between 22O and 5OO meters of elevation, on slopes facing south or southwest. The climate is Mediterranean: hot and dry in summer; mild in winter; modest rainfall in spring and fall. Soils vary. Each plot is harvested and vinified separately, before entering its aging and blending, if any, process.

The complex influences and interactions of microclimate, soils, elevation, vineyard structure, clones, rootstocks, vine density and orientation, and other factors are being studied. Microclimate, elevation, and soil composition especially are being observed. One result of this research has been the development of a group of three Sangiovese Crus – the Ricasoli Raritas – that have achieved a sufficient quality level and distinctiveness to join the exclusive and elite echelon, Gran Selezione. They are small-production, singlevineyard wines, each 1OO percent Sangiovese. Vine plantings in these vineyards were between 1998 and 2OO2. They are matured for 18 months in 5OO-liter French-oak tonneaux, 3O percent new, 7O percent second passage. To get an idea of the general Ricasoli style, I also tasted, perhaps unfairly, the house flagship, Brolio Chianti Classico, a much less expensive, less glitterattian wine, composed of Sangiovese 80 percent, Merlot 15, Cabernet Sauvignon 5, grown in stony vineyards at between 29O and 5OO meters of elevation and with different exposures. Blended for consistency from estate sources, it is aged nine months in second- and third-year French-oak barrels, and 3-6 months in bottle.

Ricasoli’s Sangiovese Crus are: COLLEDILÀ, a vineyard of 7.62 hectares , at altitude of 38O meters facing southeast. The soil is predominantly calcareous clay. Vine density 66OO per hectare of Sangiovese clones VCR23, VCR5, and Brolio clones on rootstock 11OR. Colledilà means the “hill over there.” Production is 15OO-16OO cases; RONCICONE, 1O.87 ha at 32O meters faces southeast. Soil is marine sediment with sandy deposits and rocks, clay at deeper levels. Vine density is 6OOO of the same clones on rootstock 42OA. The name, Roncicone, refers to a small plot in the Leccione subarea. Production is 6OO-8OO cases,

and CENIPRIMO, a vineyard of 6.35 ha lies at an elevation of 3OO meters facing southwest. It was geologically deposited from river and lake, forming silty soil, with ample clay. Sangiovese clones VCR23, VCR5, and R24 are planted 5952 to the hectare on 42OA rootstock. CeniPrimo, is the first selection of the Ceni Vineyard. Production is 6OO-8OO cases.

Thus far, the main finding of the research has been that there are 19 distinct soil types within the Brolio vineyards, five principal soil substrates, three of which are exemplified by the three Raritas vineyards as described. According to Ricasoli, the soil at Colledilà, called Monte Morello, limestone or Albarese, characterized by high levels of calcium carbonate, rocks, and clay, is ideal for sangiovese, giving “wines of excellent structure, body, and persistence with soft tannins”; the ancient marine sediments with sandy deposits and rocks and organic matter at Roncicone produce wines “that are fresh, with spicy notes, elegant acidy and distinct minerality”; and the fluvial-lacrustrine deposits leaving unstructured silt and abundant clay at CeniPrimo yield wines with “a complex range of aromas, are well-structured, and still have high tannin, body, and length.”

In the words of Technical Director Massimiliano Biagi: “The zoning [and clonal] research has allowed us to identify different terroirs (soil, climate, altitude, exposures) that greatly influence the organoleptic characteristics of Sangiovese. The three soils of the Raritas are: limestone for Colledilà, altitude 39O meters above sea level, facing southeast-southwest; marine deposits for Roncicone, 32O meters above sea level, facing southeast; ancient river terrace for CeniPrimo, 3OO meters above sea level, facing southwest, but the most important result obtained is the awareness of the potential of Sangiovese in our terroirs and the possibility of making them express in the fullness of their elegance.”

Now let’s taste the wines, and see whether we agree.

WINE NOTES BROLIO CHIANTI CLASSICO, RICASOLI, 2O16 $21 Dark. Forefront of appetizing acidity on a good basic structure of fruit. Soft tannins. Pleasant finish. Nicely integrated. Will last a good while.

COLLEDILÀ CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE, RICASOLI, 2O15 $7O The color saturations get slightly lighter as we proceed. Little nose. Forward fruit, balanced. New oak still evident. Long finish. While has some elegance, not yet an integrated “one.”

RONCICONE CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE, RICASOLI, 2O15 $85 Suave well-balanced fruit. More intense. Very long. I foresee excellent future.

CENIPRIMO CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE, RICASOLI 2O15 $85 Richer. Lower notes: a cello to the preceding violins. Tannin in very long finish. Also has excellent future.

WINE & SPIRITS

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Wednesday, April 01, 2020 NEW YORK, NY 88,111 (N/A) Magazine (7Y) 123,124,125,126....

Main Ricasoli

Gran Selezione Can Chianti Classico's top-tier category rebound?

by STEPHANIE JOHNSON

I

n our Chianti Classico rnsting panels this year, the Gran Selezi­ one wiJ1es turned in their best performance to date, with 20 rec­ ommendations, 15 of those garnering exceptional scores. Most were from 2016 and 2015, two excellent vintages, which surely contributed to the successful showing. It's a bit of good news for a cat­ egory that was born six years ago amidst controversy and skepticism.

Even if you're an ardent Italian wine lover, you may be asking, "What is Gran Selezione?" It's a name the Chianti Classico Con­ sorzio came up with for a new top tier that would sit above R.iserva and annata in Chianti Classico's quality pyramid. Gran Selezione was born out of some producers' concerns that the rules for Riserva wines are too lax. The Consorzio also hoped that the new top-tier cat­ egory would attract those making Toscana !GT wines back into the fold. Those "Super Tuscans" include some of the region's most elite sangiovese-based wines.

How does Gran Selezione differ from R.iserva? Not as much as some producers had hoped it would, a shortcoming that created controversy from the start. Gran Selezione enforces slightly higher levels of alcohol and extract, and requires 30 months of aging to Riscrva's 24. Some producers believe that six months of additional aging was inadequate, while others believe than an emphasis on longer aging and higher concentration leads to wines that are over-oaked and unbalanced.

(That was certainly true of some Gran Selezione wines submitted to our tasting panels in previous years.)

Other aspects of the Gran Selezione rules caused greater disagree­ ment. Requirements for grape varieties are identical for all three cat­ egories of Chianti Cla sico-a minimum of BO percent sangiovese with the remaining 20 percent coming from any red variety approved in the zone, which includes traditional Tuscan grapes as well as international varieties, such as cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

Perhaps the biggest bone of contention was over rules governing origin. Many producers, especially smaller ones, thought Gran Selezi­ one wines should originate from a single vineyard. Some also advo­ cated for rying tl1e category to Chianti Classico's subzones, but no such recognition exists yet, despite years of discussion.

In the end, the regulations require only that the grapes must come from a single estate, a definition that accommodates producers whose estates can encompass thousands of acres, but alienates those who see greater emphasis on territoriality as Chianti Classico's future. Like a

number of other producers, Laura Bianchi of Castello di Monsanto, who makes her Riserva 11 Poggio exclusively with native varieties from one of Chianti Classico's most historic single-vineyard sites, initially declined to participate in protest of what she saw as watered-down regulations.

Gran Selezione's rocky rollout didn't inspire much enthusiasm among US wine buyers. NYC's Del Posto champions Ch.ianti Classico wines on its extensive Italian list, but wine director Evan Clagnaz was initially put off by the new category. He now carries about half a dozen Gran Selezione wines, but three times as many Riservas. "I don't think consumers care [about tl,e Gran Selezione category], because it was mishandled when it was released." Clagnaz would prefer to see Chianti Classico focus on closer identification with subzones and elimination of international varieties. Carlin Karr, who runs the 1,200-bottle list at Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder, Colorado, echoes Clagnaz's objec­ tion to international varieties, preferring the pure, unoaked sangio­ vese flavors she finds in many Chianti Classico wines: "[Gran Selezi­ one] was just a marketing debacle," she says. "I don't think that more expensive versions blended with international varieties are the best thing for Chianti Classico."

This raises the question of what market need Gran Selezione does fill: In our tastings, we found plenty of bright, delicious wines within Chianti Classico's other two categories, and only a handful of Gran Seleziones outshone the top Riservas. Consumers looking for powerful examples of pure sangiovese wines, and willing to pay premium prices, can find plenty in Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico's neighbor 10 the south. So where does this leave Gran Selezione?

The people behind Gran Selezione have beard the criticisms and, according to Consorzio president and Fontodi proprietor Giovanni Manetti, are working on changes to address tl1em. Manetti recently outlined plans to propose higher minimums for sangiovese (up to 90 percent); to decrease or eliminate international varieties; and to cre­ ate an official recognition of subzones. The proposals have convinced at least one skeptic; Bianchi of Castello di Monsanto recently released her 201411 Poggio as a Gran Selezione for the first time.

Whether Manetti can bring consensus to the 580-member Con­ sorzio remains to be seen, but rules that tie the wines more closely to native grape varieties and specific sites, and that clearly communicate these differences to consumers, would be a step i.n the right direction.

Our blind panels tasted 113 new-release wines from Chianti Classico for this issue. • Our critic for Italy, Stephanie Johnson, rated 41 as exceptional (90+) and 16 as Best Buys. Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com

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BEVERAGE BUSINESS

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Wednesday, April 01, 2020 BOSTON.MA 6,854 (N/A) Magazine (M) 8,9 Section B Castello di Brolio

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IN SEARCH OF TUSCANY'S QUINTESSENCE

SANGIOVESE AT RICASOLI

By Harvey Finkel

T

he iconic grape of central Italy is undoubtably the Sangiovese, which reaches its apogee in central Tuscany.

But it was not ever so, nor is it everywhere. So variable is

density and orientation, and other factors are being studied.

Microclimate, elevation, and soil composition especially are being observed. One result of this research has been the

the variety, depending on clone, conditions, and treatment,

development of a group of three Sangiovese Crus - the

that we can pick out a few foci of excellence where the

Ricasoli Raritas - that have achieved a sufficient quality level

wines of this difficult and generous grape come nearest to

and distinctiveness to join the exclusive and elite echelon,

expressing their theoretical ideal. Brunelle di Montalcino,

Gran Selezione. They are small-production, single-vineyard

Carmignano, Chianti Classico, Chianti Rufina, Vino Nobile

wines, each 100 percent Sangiovese. Vine plantings in these

di Montepulciano, and a number of what have come to be

vineyards were between 1998 and 2002. They are matured

called "Supertuscans" qualify. Notice they are all neighbors.

for 18 months in SOO-liter French-oak tonneaux, 30 percent

Sangiovese merits superstardom nowhere else in the world.

new, 70 percent second passage. To get an idea of the

Even among this elevated company, the character and quality

general Ricasoli style, I also tasted, perhaps unfairly, the

of the wines continue to be refined.

The Ricasoli family has long stood in the forefront of

house flagship, Brolio Chianti Classico, a much less expensive, less glitterattian wine, composed of Sangiovese 80 percent,

Tuscan viticulture, recorded at least since 1141 in possession

Merlot 15, Cabernet 5auvignon 5, grown in stony vineyards at

of Brolio Castle and its vineyards. Barone Bettino Ricasoli,

between 290 and 500 meters of elevation and with different

the second prime minister of a recently united Italy, brought

exposures. Blended for consistency from estate sources, it

order to the anarchy of the original core of Chianti Classico,

is aged nine months in second- and third-year French-oak

in 1872 codifying its recipe and crowning Sangiovese as

barrels, and 3-6 months in bottle.

king. After distinguished decades of leadership, followed by disappointing relationships with Seagram's, then Hardy's,

Ricasoli's Sangiovese Crus are: COLLEDILA, a vineyard of 7.62 hectares , at altitude of 380 meters facing southeast.

the firm, again under total control of the Ricasolis since

The soil is predominantly calcareous clay. Vine density

1993, has been rejuvenated as a vinously progressive force.

6600 per hectare of Sangiovese clones VCR23, VCRS,

Francesco Ricasoli, the 32nd Barone, is at the helm.

and Brolio clones on rootstock llOR. Colledila means

The 12OO-hectare Ricasoli estate is located in the Chianti Classico township of Gaiole in Chianti, centered

the "hill over there." Production is 1500-1600 cases; RONCICONE, 10.87 ha at 320 meters faces southeast. Soil

at Brolio Castle, just northeast of Siena. It contains

is marine sediment with sandy deposits and rocks, clay at

240 hectares of vines, 26 of olive groves. The castle

deeper levels. Vine density is 6000 of the same clones on

contains what is said to be the oldest working winery in Italy,

rootstock 42OA. The name, Roncicone, refers to a small plot

second-oldest in the world. It is, of course, now technically

in the Leccione subarea. Production is 600-800 cases,

thoroughly modern. Most of the vineyards lie between

and CENIPRIMO, a vineyard of 6.35 ha lies at an elevation of

220 and 500 meters of elevation, on slopes facing south

300 meters facing southwest. It was geologically deposited

or southwest. The climate is Mediterranean: hot and dry in

from river and lake, forming silty soil, with ample clay.

summer; mild in winter; modest rainfall in spring and fall.

Sangiovese clones VCR23, VCR5, and R24 are planted 5952 to

Soils vary. Each plot is harvested and vinified separately,

the hectare on 42OA rootstock. CeniPrimo, is the first selection

before entering its aging and blending, if any, process.

of the Ceni Vineyard. Production is 600-800 cases.

The complex influences and interactions of microclimate, soils, elevation, vineyard structure, clones, rootstocks, vine

Thus far, the main finding of the research has been that there are 19 distinct soil types within the Brolio vineyards, five

Page 1 of 2

March 31, 2020 Circulation: 21,000

Italian wine NEEDS YOU more than ever before. Help out with a virtual tasting.

Jeremy Parzen Ever since graduate school, Italy has been my lifeline and my livelihood.

It started with a fellowship at the Italian Department at U.C.L.A. Then came my first non-service job as an Italian instructor and researcher. Later came a Fulbright and other grants and scholarships for study in Italy. And during four summers off from school, I made a living playing in a cover band in Belluno, Padua, and Venice.

Wine.

After school, I shifted to commercial media when I got an assistant editor job at La Cucina Italiana in New York. That led to wine writing. That led to copywriting. That led to marketing consulting. More recent years brought a teaching position at the Slow Food University in Piedmont and a gig as an editor for Slow

For more than 25 years now, Italy, Italian culture, and Italian food and wine have helped me make a living.

And now Italy and Italian food and wine needs us more than ever before.

Just this morning, I received a press release from the Italian Federation of Independent Grape Growers outlining the Italian wine industry’s most urgent needs: debt relief, small business loans for wineries and restaurants, relaxed restrictions on retail sales and production limits, etc. It echoed an open letter to Governor Cuomo from a New York-based food and wine association that arrived last night. These were just two of the myriad pleas for help, support, and solidarity that have been flooding my my inbox.

We’re all facing similar challenges in this unprecedented health crisis.

That’s why I’m inviting you to open a bottle of Italian wine from your cellar and share it on social media. Tag me and I’ll share it, too.

My client Scarpa has just launched its “Scarpa Cellar Dive” program: open a bottle of Scarpa, share a video and they’ll replace the bottle.

My client Ethica Wines has asked me to lead a series of live tastings on its Instagram. Tomorrow (Wednesday, April 1) at 3 p.m EST (2 p.m. CST), I’ll tasting with Alberto Cordero from Cordero di Montezemolo (a super cool old-school estate that not enough folks in the U.S. know about).

And yesterday afternoon I shot my first virtual tasting video (below). My good friends at Folio Fine Wine partners generously sent me a care package of wines that Tracie and I have been enjoying over the few weeks of isolation (thank you Folio!). The Ricasoli 2015 Chianti Classico Colledilà Gran Selezione blew me away when I tasted it in Tuscany in January.

Buy Italian wine, drink Italian wine, order from your favorite retailer and/or restaurant (many states are allowing restaurants to sell wine with take-out orders). And if your finances don’t permit any of the above, open a bottle from your cellar and share the joy on social media (tag me and I’ll share it, too).

We can all use a little joy in our lives right now and Italian wine is a great way to find it.

Thanks for being here and thanks for supporting Italian wine.

March 31, 2020 Circulation: 4,600,000

Chianti's Top Tier Grows Up W. Blake Gray Chianti Classico still has an envy problem, but it no longer has a classification problem: Gran Selezione has grown up.

In 2014, the Chianti Classico consorzio introduced a new highest-level classification, Gran Selezione. The goal was to get recognition – and more money – for some of the top wines being made in that part of Tuscany. Montalcino was getting paid, and Chianti Classico producers believed, not without justification, that their best wines should be on that scale.

"We are challenging the producers in Montalcino," Baron Francesco Ricasoli told Wine-Searcher. "We have Sangiovese that has an elegance that you won't find in Montalcino."

At first the classification was haphazard. Only a couple dozen wineries bothered to use it; many feared it would undermine their Riserva level. Some tried to make their wines more awesome, using new oak and extremely ripe grapes.

In 2018 I checked in on Gran Seleziones. There were more, and many were much better. However, some also didn't resemble what people like me who love Chianti Classico, love about it. What I most remember about tasting 50 of them in a day is that I met two fellow wine journalists for dinner that night. They had also tasted Chianti Classico all day, but not Gran Seleziones like me. I begged for us to order a Chianti Classico for dinner. They refused: you had all day to taste those, they said! I said, but I tasted Gran Seleziones. They said, well, that was your choice.

Parting ways with Parker When it's good, Chianti Classico is one of my favorite wines in the world. Part of the region's struggles to earn more money for the wines is that the classic taste profile didn't fit the Parker era. A good Chianti Classico offers dried fruit, savory notes like leather and tobacco, plenty of food-friendly acidity and a firm but not overpowering backbone. You can drink a good Chianti Classico with fish, pizza, pasta, chicken ... you name it, and I might have enjoyed Chianti Classico with it.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione has been a challenge for the European concept of regional identity. Take Burgundy, for example. The difference between a good Montrachet and a great Montrachet may be easy to taste, but they're both supposed to taste like Montrachet. It's strange for Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva to taste like one thing and Gran Selezione to taste like another. Ideally, you want the Gran Selezione to taste like the Riserva, only better. But I found in prior years that sometimes it was completely different. Moreover, sometimes a winery's Riserva or even its entry-level Chianti Classico was better than the Gran Selezione.

I wasn't planning to taste Gran Seleziones again this year. Every February in the pre-pandemic world, journalists gathered in Florence to taste the new Chianti Classico releases. There are hundreds of wines to taste, too many for two days, so I always look for a theme. In 2019, I tasted all the largest-production wines, which I found surprisingly satisfying, and better for readers because those wines are easiest to find.

I was talking about this with an Italian wine journalist: what should I taste? She said I should revisit Gran Seleziones, because, she said, a lot has changed in the two years since I last checked on them: they were a lot more elegant.

I didn't have a better plan, so that's what I did. When I did this in 2018, I could taste every Gran Selezione: there were only 82. The number of wineries making a Gran Selezione expands every year. In February of this year – we were there just as the first cases of coronavirus were being diagnosed north of Tuscany – there were 112 to choose from. That's more than I want to taste; I needed to winnow.

Fortunately I had the magic of Wine-Searcher. I looked up all 112 to see which are available in the US, which is Chianti Classico's biggest market. Surprisingly, only 44 are. This not only made my tasting more manageable; it allowed me to taste with context, because I could then also taste entry-level and/or Riserva wines from the same wineries. So I could actually see – well, taste – whether Gran Selezione has a family resemblance now, and whether Gran Seleziones really are the best wines the winery makes (I didn't find this to be true as recently as 2019.)

I was surprised that only 39 percent of the Gran Seleziones are available in the US, especially because we famously pay more for wine than consumers in other countries. Count Sebastiano Capponi, owner of Villa Calcinaia, explained that many of the outliers are made in small quantities to sell from the winery to visitors, and many of those visitors are Americans. So we are buying them as the top of the portfolio. Are they worth it?

From what I tasted in February, the answer is yes. I wouldn't recommend all of the 44 wines I tasted. But in each case, when I compared it to the other wines the winery made, the Gran Selezione was the best. Also, the familial resemblance with Riservas was much stronger than before. If a winery's Riserva has pretty floral notes, its Gran Selezione has them too. Gran Seleziones tend to be picked a little riper, but not Parkerera ripe. The fruit is often more fresh than dried, but the resemblance is there.

Filippo Corsini, owner of Principe Corsini winery, told me the change has been more in all of Chianti Classico than just in the Gran Seleziones.

"It's about the change in perspective in general from the producer," Corsini said. "They began understanding that overdress is overdress. They had an excess of concentration. They used oak to cover it. They were not confident in the grapes. Fashion is moving into openness. Terroir. The flavors of the terroir. You have more harmony. So many excesses have been mitigated since, I would say, 2015. We are moving into emphasizing the value of the grape. Emphasizing the freshness of the fruit. The integrity of fruit is exactly what we want to get integrity in the wine."

Not coincidentally, I was tasting mostly 2016s and 2017s this year. So my fellow Italian journalist was right!

2016 Ricasoli Ceniprimo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Dried cherry fruit with a gravelly note, nice freshness and smooth tannins. Very well made.

2016 Ricasoli Roncicone Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ricasoli makes four different Gran Seleziones from four different vineyards, and they're all good.This one has good freshness, nice cherry fruit, a touch of minerality, and an elegant finish. You can feel the tannins but they don't grip. Really nice balance.

March 31, 2020 Circulation: 21,000

Italian wine NEEDS YOU more than ever before. Help out with a virtual tasting.

Jeremy Parzen Ever since graduate school, Italy has been my lifeline and my livelihood.

It started with a fellowship at the Italian Department at U.C.L.A. Then came my first non-service job as an Italian instructor and researcher. Later came a Fulbright and other grants and scholarships for study in Italy. And during four summers off from school, I made a living playing in a cover band in Belluno, Padua, and Venice.

Wine.

After school, I shifted to commercial media when I got an assistant editor job at La Cucina Italiana in New York. That led to wine writing. That led to copywriting. That led to marketing consulting. More recent years brought a teaching position at the Slow Food University in Piedmont and a gig as an editor for Slow

For more than 25 years now, Italy, Italian culture, and Italian food and wine have helped me make a living.

And now Italy and Italian food and wine needs us more than ever before.

Just this morning, I received a press release from the Italian Federation of Independent Grape Growers outlining the Italian wine industry’s most urgent needs: debt relief, small business loans for wineries and restaurants, relaxed restrictions on retail sales and production limits, etc. It echoed an open letter to Governor Cuomo from a New York-based food and wine association that arrived last night. These were just two of the myriad pleas for help, support, and solidarity that have been flooding my my inbox.

We’re all facing similar challenges in this unprecedented health crisis.

That’s why I’m inviting you to open a bottle of Italian wine from your cellar and share it on social media. Tag me and I’ll share it, too.

My client Scarpa has just launched its “Scarpa Cellar Dive” program: open a bottle of Scarpa, share a video and they’ll replace the bottle.

My client Ethica Wines has asked me to lead a series of live tastings on its Instagram. Tomorrow (Wednesday, April 1) at 3 p.m EST (2 p.m. CST), I’ll tasting with Alberto Cordero from Cordero di Montezemolo (a super cool old-school estate that not enough folks in the U.S. know about).

And yesterday afternoon I shot my first virtual tasting video (below). My good friends at Folio Fine Wine partners generously sent me a care package of wines that Tracie and I have been enjoying over the few weeks of isolation (thank you Folio!). The Ricasoli 2015 Chianti Classico Colledilà Gran Selezione blew me away when I tasted it in Tuscany in January.

Buy Italian wine, drink Italian wine, order from your favorite retailer and/or restaurant (many states are allowing restaurants to sell wine with take-out orders). And if your finances don’t permit any of the above, open a bottle from your cellar and share the joy on social media (tag me and I’ll share it, too).

We can all use a little joy in our lives right now and Italian wine is a great way to find it.

Thanks for being here and thanks for supporting Italian wine.

March 31, 2020 Circulation: 4,600,000

Chianti's Top Tier Grows Up W. Blake Gray Chianti Classico still has an envy problem, but it no longer has a classification problem: Gran Selezione has grown up.

In 2014, the Chianti Classico consorzio introduced a new highest-level classification, Gran Selezione. The goal was to get recognition – and more money – for some of the top wines being made in that part of Tuscany. Montalcino was getting paid, and Chianti Classico producers believed, not without justification, that their best wines should be on that scale.

"We are challenging the producers in Montalcino," Baron Francesco Ricasoli told Wine-Searcher. "We have Sangiovese that has an elegance that you won't find in Montalcino."

At first the classification was haphazard. Only a couple dozen wineries bothered to use it; many feared it would undermine their Riserva level. Some tried to make their wines more awesome, using new oak and extremely ripe grapes.

In 2018 I checked in on Gran Seleziones. There were more, and many were much better. However, some also didn't resemble what people like me who love Chianti Classico, love about it. What I most remember about tasting 50 of them in a day is that I met two fellow wine journalists for dinner that night. They had also tasted Chianti Classico all day, but not Gran Seleziones like me. I begged for us to order a Chianti Classico for dinner. They refused: you had all day to taste those, they said! I said, but I tasted Gran Seleziones. They said, well, that was your choice.

Parting ways with Parker When it's good, Chianti Classico is one of my favorite wines in the world. Part of the region's struggles to earn more money for the wines is that the classic taste profile didn't fit the Parker era. A good Chianti Classico offers dried fruit, savory notes like leather and tobacco, plenty of food-friendly acidity and a firm but not overpowering backbone. You can drink a good Chianti Classico with fish, pizza, pasta, chicken ... you name it, and I might have enjoyed Chianti Classico with it.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione has been a challenge for the European concept of regional identity. Take Burgundy, for example. The difference between a good Montrachet and a great Montrachet may be easy to taste, but they're both supposed to taste like Montrachet. It's strange for Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva to taste like one thing and Gran Selezione to taste like another. Ideally, you want the Gran Selezione to taste like the Riserva, only better. But I found in prior years that sometimes it was completely different. Moreover, sometimes a winery's Riserva or even its entry-level Chianti Classico was better than the Gran Selezione.

I wasn't planning to taste Gran Seleziones again this year. Every February in the pre-pandemic world, journalists gathered in Florence to taste the new Chianti Classico releases. There are hundreds of wines to taste, too many for two days, so I always look for a theme. In 2019, I tasted all the largest-production wines, which I found surprisingly satisfying, and better for readers because those wines are easiest to find.

I was talking about this with an Italian wine journalist: what should I taste? She said I should revisit Gran Seleziones, because, she said, a lot has changed in the two years since I last checked on them: they were a lot more elegant.

I didn't have a better plan, so that's what I did. When I did this in 2018, I could taste every Gran Selezione: there were only 82. The number of wineries making a Gran Selezione expands every year. In February of this year – we were there just as the first cases of coronavirus were being diagnosed north of Tuscany – there were 112 to choose from. That's more than I want to taste; I needed to winnow.

Fortunately I had the magic of Wine-Searcher. I looked up all 112 to see which are available in the US, which is Chianti Classico's biggest market. Surprisingly, only 44 are. This not only made my tasting more manageable; it allowed me to taste with context, because I could then also taste entry-level and/or Riserva wines from the same wineries. So I could actually see – well, taste – whether Gran Selezione has a family resemblance now, and whether Gran Seleziones really are the best wines the winery makes (I didn't find this to be true as recently as 2019.)

I was surprised that only 39 percent of the Gran Seleziones are available in the US, especially because we famously pay more for wine than consumers in other countries. Count Sebastiano Capponi, owner of Villa Calcinaia, explained that many of the outliers are made in small quantities to sell from the winery to visitors, and many of those visitors are Americans. So we are buying them as the top of the portfolio. Are they worth it?

From what I tasted in February, the answer is yes. I wouldn't recommend all of the 44 wines I tasted. But in each case, when I compared it to the other wines the winery made, the Gran Selezione was the best. Also, the familial resemblance with Riservas was much stronger than before. If a winery's Riserva has pretty floral notes, its Gran Selezione has them too. Gran Seleziones tend to be picked a little riper, but not Parkerera ripe. The fruit is often more fresh than dried, but the resemblance is there.

Filippo Corsini, owner of Principe Corsini winery, told me the change has been more in all of Chianti Classico than just in the Gran Seleziones.

"It's about the change in perspective in general from the producer," Corsini said. "They began understanding that overdress is overdress. They had an excess of concentration. They used oak to cover it. They were not confident in the grapes. Fashion is moving into openness. Terroir. The flavors of the terroir. You have more harmony. So many excesses have been mitigated since, I would say, 2015. We are moving into emphasizing the value of the grape. Emphasizing the freshness of the fruit. The integrity of fruit is exactly what we want to get integrity in the wine."

Not coincidentally, I was tasting mostly 2016s and 2017s this year. So my fellow Italian journalist was right!

2016 Ricasoli Ceniprimo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Dried cherry fruit with a gravelly note, nice freshness and smooth tannins. Very well made.

2016 Ricasoli Roncicone Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ricasoli makes four different Gran Seleziones from four different vineyards, and they're all good.This one has good freshness, nice cherry fruit, a touch of minerality, and an elegant finish. You can feel the tannins but they don't grip. Really nice balance.

March 29, 2020 Circulation: 9,360

Chianti Classico: A Professional Evaluation of the 2018 Vintage Daenna Van Mulligen

Daenna Van Mulligen looks at the 2018 vintage and select wines from 2015, 2016, 2017 The 27th annual “Chianti Classic Collection” took place as usual, in early February in Florence, Italy.

Despite the Italian government checking temperatures of every person entering the country when I arrived, by the time I left, one week later, Venice was in lockdown. I was not infected, and from my understanding, none of the other journalists were either. None of us was aware of how different the world would look in only a couple weeks.

However, that week in Florence, taste we did, and here are 44 of my top picks from the nearly 100 Chianti Classico Collection 2020 wines I tasted. They are listed alphabetically. The wines are either at wine shops now, or should be arriving over the next few months.

First, the format: for two days, just outside of central Florence in the Stazione Leopold, journalists and wine experts evaluated samples of the 2018 vintage of Chianti Classicos during an intensive sit-down tasting with sommelier service.

I found that overall, 2018 was a more successful vintage, fresher, fleshier and more approachable in my opinion, compared to the more astringent 2017s I had tasted during the 2019 tastings.

Alongside the new releases, previous vintages of Riserva and the ultra-premium Gran Selezione wines were also available to sample from the 200 attending producers; my notes on the finest of these wines are below.

Wines are 100% Sangiovese, unless otherwise noted, and a few (also noted) were barrel samples A note about the weather during the 2018 growing season, according to the consortium of Chianti Classico producers: 2018 started with early budbreak due to above average temperatures for March and April, followed by a fairly rainy month in May. From 10th June onwards, temperatures started rising again and in the Chianti Classico area we had a good summer with little rain.

Veraison began in late July and continued quite slowly in the month of August. Summer temperatures were within the norm. In September, particularly, we had a succession of sunny days with considerable day-night temperature variation, allowing the grapes in the area to achieve the expected level of phenolic and aromatic ripeness.

The red grape harvest began in mid-September and finished in mid-October. Although it’s difficult to give an assessment just after the harvest, Chianti Classico 2018 should be a 4/5 vintage.

Ricasoli – Colledilà Gaiole in Chianti Sweet spices, cherry cola and licorice lift succulent aromas of smoked meat and grilled herbal. A silky palate is bright, spicy, and harnessed by youthful tannins. A wine that needs time to soften and open up; it has loads of structure.

Ricasoli – Ceniprimo Gaiole in Chianti A distinctly savory offering with dominant meaty and herbal aromas layered with leather, tobacco and earthy undertones. The palate mimics the nose; this is a firm and contemplative wine with sturdy posture— definitely muscular in style.

March 2, 2020 Circulation: 556,100

Chianti Classico – What You Need To Know Debbie Gioquindo I’m sure when you reach for that bottle of Chianti to go with your Italian meal you don’t question the origins.

You know it’s from the Chianti region and that is good enough for your pairing. Do you know the difference between Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva? Did you know there is an actual recipe for Chianti Classico and the man who developed it? Stay with me, and we will touch on these areas so when you go reach for that bottle of Chianti Classico you will have a better understanding of its originsChianti Classico What You Need To Know LocationThe Chianti region is a sub-region of Tuscany established in 1716 and lies between Siena and Florence. The key grape grown is Sangiovese, although there are other grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and some local indigenous varieties grown as well.

Chianti Classico Classification SystemAs in many wines, the key to understanding what you are purchasing and pouring is to understand the classification system. This includes aging requirement, blending requirement and at times where the grapes are grown. There is a new classification in Chianti called Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. I will get into more detail on that in another article. For now, to understand here is what you need to know.

Chianti Classico - Chianti Classico must be made with a minimum of 80% Sangiovese grapes that are cropped at 3.35 tons per acre. The minimum alcohol level is 12%. The wine must be aged for 1 year, not to be released until October the following year.

Chianti Classico Riserva - must be made with a minimum of 80% Sangiovese, maximum vineyard yield is 3.35 tons per acre and the minimum alcohol level is 12.5%. The wine must age for 24 months with a minimum of 3 months aged in the bottle before released.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione - This is a fairly new classification. The wine must be made with 80% Sangiovese but they all must be estate grown with a minimum alcohol level of 13%. The wine must age for 30 months with a minimum of 3 months aged in the bottle.

The remaining 20% of the grapes that are blended into Chianti Classico can be Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Colorino and Canaiolo Nero.

The Man Behind the Recipe The Ricasoli family has been making wine Chianti Classico dating back to 1141. It is the oldest winery in Italy and one of the four oldest wineries in the world. The property is home to the Brolio Castle located in the town of Gaiole.Baron Bettino Ricasoli was a politician and visionary wine entrepreneur. He pushed for a focus on Sangiovese in Chianti Classico instead of the Canaiolo grape and it was documented by 30 years of experimentation. He won and they then began using 70% Sangiovese. Today it has been modified to 80%.The vineyards range from 220 to 500 meters in altitude with a Mediterranean climate.Today Baron Francesco Ricasoli who has been the head of the winery since 1993 is just as scientifically in tune to winemaking and innovation as his predecessors. He is a major influence on the ongoing study of soil types and clonal research. He has mapped 19 different soils at Briolo. The 5 most important soil types are: Arenaria (Sandstone) found in the higher altitude. Scaglia Toscana which are compacted layers of clay, Alberese (limestone) that many vineyards are planted on. This is the area where some of their Cru wines

(top wines) are planted. The Marine Deposit Soils are at the lower altitudes as are the Alluvial Terraces, altitudes up to 300 meters.Chianti Classico - What You Need To Know Ricasoli Chianti Classico Ricasoli Chianti Classico 2016 - This is the flagship wine which is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. It was fermented in stainless steel with 14-16 days of skin contact. It was aged for 9 months in 2nd and 3rd-year barrels plus 3 to 6 months in the bottle before release.Tasting Notes: Some dry herbs and earthy undertones, bright cherry, plum and hint of acidity. Very easy drinking. SRP $22 Ricasoli Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva 2016 - This is produced from a selection of estate-rown grapes that reflect all the soil characteristics of Brolio. The blend is 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks for with skin contact for 14 - 16 days. The wine was aged for 18 months in 1st and 2nd-year barrels then aged in the bottle for 6 months before release.Tasting Notes: Very complex, dark and rich. Black cherry, plum, anise and cocoa notes escape from the glass. The palate with soft tannins, layered with dark red fruit, black cherry, anise, black licorice, leather and cardamon, SRP $30

February 19, 2020 Circulation: 5,460

LOVE, LIKE GREAT WINE, NOT SO EASY TO FIND Bill Eyer Do I lift the sails, do I take down my defenses, can the universe be signaling to me, yes, this is the "droid you've been looking for." You had to be there for that to make sense. I don't know how to approach this, I didn't think it would ever happen, I really didn't believe it would be possible, but here I'm. How can this amazing human being, I'm only starting to get to know, who checks all the boxes on my list, yes, that checklist we all have if we're honest.

But, then there's a slight hiccup in the road, a bump if you will, that makes you question, what am I doing here? That must have been the very question, Napoleon's Generals must have been asking each other as they rolled into Waterloo.

Fast forward a few days, and now I know, after just a few days of conversation that I should have known, unlike Napoleon, not to roll into another relationship so quickly. Yup, I'm that guy you've all heard about that wears his heart on his sleeve. Friends advised me to "slow my roll," but I didn't listen and like Mr. Bonaparte, I had my ass handed to me, once more. Yes, ouch, honesty sold here. So too much honesty? That's not what you came here for, am I right? You just wanna get the deets on the latest wine discoveries, am I right again? If so, then stay tuned, and scroll down, it's all there.

But the 'loves' I find in wine, well they're not so frequent either, but when I do see the one I want, from an unexpected place, my heart goes all pitter-patter. Which is a technical term you know, for how much I like a bottle of wine(s) I'm about to share with you, one I encountered during the last wine studio?

As you can see from the picture, both are 100 percent Merlot, but from two very different vintages. While the 2008 did have the advantage of more time in bottle (which some folks call bottle maturity) the 2011 was no slacker, it just wasn't ready for prime time as they say. Each of these wines was both pretty, suave and sophisticated in their own, way, I ultimately gave the 2008 higher marks. Many of those tasting that night also agreed. Both bottles were open a few days, one with the coravin and the other with a low-tech air suctioning stopper. Even after being open and decanted the 2011 was tight, the tannins chewy and the acid blazing.

While specific chemical compounds are part of every wine, not every wine can be produced by mixing those compounds into the water to create something truly remarkable. That's something that only a particular clone, a place, weather conditions of a single vintage, etc can singularly produce. It's my opinion the wines I know and love cannot be replicated by a simple combination of chemistry and water. Take, for example, the two bottles featured in today's article, which I will get to in a moment. So yes, while love is not easy to find, a love for these wines in today's review will wow you and thrill you every sip, slurp and maybe even the eventual burp, oh-my.

Here come the tasting notes, Barone Ricasoli Casalferro 2008: 100% Merlot that drinks like a dream. This wine is easy on the eye, soothing and seductive from the get-go, there's something about its amazing richness and intensity, which draws you in right away. One the very best 2008's I've tasted in some time and would give any right bank Bordeaux a run for its money. Some will say it's too modern, no, but I feel ya it's just seductive. Still, it has a lovely vein of acid, which keeps the abundant red and dark fruit in check.

Well-integrated tannins and a long mouth coating finish.

Drinks like a mid to high priced Napa Valley Cab, and pushes near the boundaries of where I like to spend my coin. After finishing this bottle late in the evening, just a few weeks ago, I paired it with grilled Tri-Tip, and prawns, I scored this wine, 94 points. This is the power of a renewed focus in the cellar and the vineyard, but more specifically the power of cellaring wine and doing it correctly.

Here come the tasting notes, Barone Ricasoli Casalferro 2011: A delicious Merlot dominated blend, a nicely perfumed nose. Still, a very young wine, sporting youthful tannin and grip, dark ripe plums and ripe blackberry fruit sing a merry tune, on the mid-palate, filling your mouth with joy, but a spine of acid keeps things harmonious. The other usual suspects also attend the party, leather, underbrush, and licorice. The finish is long and pleasing; you'll be sad when this bottle is gone, of that, there is no doubt. But a note of caution, if you order this wine and open it now with its zippy acid and grippy tannins, you may not be prepared for this very youthful wine. Give it more time and space, don't be a fool and rush it. My score for this wine is 91 points.

Full Disclosure: Reviewed wines are from medias sample provided (not for sale) for the review process.

All original content: Including text and photographs remain the copyright Š of the author, (W.R. Eyer, Fotogui Photography Inc., and the CuvÊe Corner Media Company) except where otherwise noted.

That said folks, yes, sometimes love sucks, but until next time folks, remember life is short, compromise is for relationships, not wine. Slurp long and prosper cheers!

February 19, 2020 Circulation: 10,000

Chianti Classico – What You Need To Know Debbie Gioquindo I’m sure when you reach for that bottle of Chianti to go with your Italian meal you don’t question the origins.

You know it’s from the Chianti region and that is good enough for your pairing. Do you know the difference between Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva? Did you know there is an actual recipe for Chianti Classico and the man who developed it? Stay with me, and we will touch on these areas so when you go reach for that bottle of Chianti Classico you will have a better understanding of its origins Location The Chianti region is a sub region of Tuscany established in 1716 and lies between Siena and Florence.

The key grape grown is Sangiovese, although there are other grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and some local indigenous varieties grown as well.

Chianti Classico Classification System As in many wines, the key to understanding what you are purchasing and pouring is to understand the classification system. This includes aging requirement, blending requirement and at times where the grapes are grown. There is a new classification in Chianti called Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. I will get into more detail on that in another article. For now, to understand here is what you need to know.

Chianti Classico – Chianti Classico must be made with a minimum of 80% Sangiovese grapes that are cropped at 3.35 tons per acre. The minimum alcohol level is 12%. The wine must be aged for 1 year, not to be released until October the following year.

Chianti Classico Riserva – must be made with a minimum of 80% Sangiovese, maximum vineyard yield is 3.35 tons per acre and the minimum alcohol level is 12.5%. The wine must age for 24 months with a minimum of 3 months aged in the bottle before released.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione – This is a fairly new classification. The wine must be made with 80% Sangiovese but they all must be estate grown with a minimum alcohol level of 13%. The wine must age for 30 months with a minimum of 3 months aged in the bottle.

The remaining 20% of the grapes that are blended into Chianti Classico can be Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Colorino and Canaiolo Nero.

The Man Behind the Recipe The Ricasoli family has been making wine Chianti Classico dating back to 1141. It is the oldest winery in Italy and one of the four oldest wineries in the world. The property is home to the Brolio Castle located in the town of Gaiole.

Baron Bettino Ricasoli was a politician and visionary wine entrepreneur. He pushed for a focus on Sangiovese in Chianti Classico instead of the Canaiolo grape, and it was documented by 30 years of experimentation. He won and they then began using 70% Sangiovese. Today it has been modified to 80%.

The vineyards range from 220 to 500 meters in altitude with a Mediterranean climate.

Today Baron Francesco Ricasoli who has been the head of the winery since 1993 is just as scientifically in tune to winemaking and innovation as his predecessors. He is a major influence on the ongoing study of soil types and clonal research. He has mapped 19 different soils at Briolo. The 5 most important soil types are: Arenaria (Sandstone) found in the higher altitude. Scaglia Toscana which are compacted layers of clay, Alberese (limestone) that many vineyards are planted on. This is the area where some of their Cru wines (top wines) are planted. The Marine Deposit Soils are at the lower altitudes as are the Alluvial Terraces, altitudes up to 300 meters.

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Ricasoli Chianti Classico 2016 – This is the flagship wine which is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. It was fermented in stainless steel with 14-16 days of skin contact. It was aged for 9 months in 2nd and 3rd year barrels plus 3 to 6 months in the bottle before release.

Tasting Notes: Some dry herbs and earthy undertones, bright cherry, plum and hint of acidity. Very easy drinking. SRP $22 Ricasoli Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva 2016 – This is produced from a selection of estate-rown grapes that reflect all the soil characteristics of Brolio. The blend is 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks for with skin contact for 14 – 16 days. The wine was aged for 18 months in 1st and 2nd year barrels then aged in the bottle for 6 months before release.

Tasting Notes: Very complex, dark and rich. Black cherry, plum, anise and cocoa notes escape from the glass. The palate with soft tannins, layered with dark red fruit, black cherry, anise, black licorice, leather and cardamon, SRP $30

February 17, 2020 Circulation: 422,167

Barone Ricasoli Roncicone Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ’16 97 Points JamesTheWineGuy

“This wine spends 18 months in a very large format, 500 to no.”

“Its not too oaky. I think its giving a touch, but not too intense. This is a handsome, gorgeous, beautiful wine.”

“I think it is a harmonized, beautiful, glorious wine meant for aging.”

“I think the characterization in this is superbly beautiful “I like the freshness of the wine. I like the tension point between the right amount of fruit concentration to spice characterization.”

February 13, 2020 Circulation: 1,710

Ricasoli Pioneers The Art And Power Of Chianti Classico Dave Nershi When your wine heritage dates to 1141, you certainly know your stuff. Such is the case with Ricasoli, pioneer of premium Chianti Classico wine.

A Wine And Food Experience Ricasoli is the oldest winery in Italy and the fourth oldest in the world. Not only that, but in 1872 Baron Bettino Ricasoli a politician and visionary wine entrepreneur, originated the formula for Chianti wine, now known world-round as Chianti Classico.

During our recent Wine Studio education class we embarked on a month-long look at Ricasoli. Before we began, it was clear that these superlative wines must be paired with exceptional food. We would have to bring our “A” game in the kitchen.

My wife, the Green Dragon, is the culinary force behind Vino-Sphere and she outdid herself, preparing wonderful wine dinners each Tuesday for a month. Our entrees included Pork Roast Stuffed with Kalamata Olives and Oregano, Pappardelle with Lamb Ragu, Cannelloni with Braised Beef, Walnuts and Fried Sage, and Red Wine Braised Osso Buco over Parmesan Polenta. These dishes were over the top with goodness.

I must tearfully note that this particular party is over – I had a hot dog today for lunch!

The Ricasoli family has been linked to winemaking since 1141. Its sprawling estate includes 593 acres of vineyard plus another 26 of olive trees. The focal point for Ricasoli is the impressive Brolio Castle, which dominates the Chianti Classico countryside and has done so for 10 centuries.

Chianti Classico is the historic heart of Chianti dating back to the Middle Ages. In recent times it separated from the Chianti DOCG to become a distinct appellation with somewhat higher standards. The black rooster on the label is the iconic symbol of the wine region. Chianti Classico must include 80% to 100% Sangiovese and cannot be released until a year after harvest. Riserva requires two years of aging and a higher alcohol level.

This was our first opportunity to taste Gran Selezione, a new category of premium wine in Chianti Classico.

Gran Selezione must be produced from estate grapes and age a minimum of 30 months along with stricter technical and sensory guidelines. The designation started in 2014, but wines from the 2010 vintage that met requirements also are considered Gran Selezione. In fact the 2010 we tried didn’t have the GS designation on the label, but the 2015 did.

Sangiovese is what drives the success of Chianti Classico. Ricasoli vineyards benefit from southern exposure and a Mediterranean climate. The steep slopes use the rittochino method of managing drainage to prevent erosion. There are 19 different soil types at Ricasoli which allows the production of varied Grand Cru-style wines.

We were able to taste through eight bottles from Ricasoli including Chianti Classico, Riserva, Gran Selezione, “Super Tuscan,” and their “Grand Cru” wines. Every splash and swirl was delectable – especially paired with good friends and amazing cuisine. For full enjoyment even the older vintages need at least an hour of decanting.

The wines are artistic and expressive, the tannins are well integrated meaning you enjoy the toasty benefits of barrel aging without having harshness. Ricasoli wines are also complex, with layers that unfurl as you sip and swirl the night away. They embrace the cuisine of Italy perfectly.

Here’s a snapshot of these great wines along with the dishes we served: Dinner Pairing – Garden Salad with Strawberries, Pork Roast Stuffed with Kalamata Olives and Oregano with Roasted Fennel Chianti Classico 2016 – Soft and juicy with luscious notes of cherry, a splash of acidity and minerality.

Earthy undertones. Sangiovese 80%, Merlot 15%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5%. A luscious house style with smooth tannins and balanced acidity. SRP $22.

Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 - A brilliant wine highlighted by perfect oaking, cooked cherries and a scruff of earthiness. Harmonious and elegant. Only $30? Wow! Ricasoli MontageDinner Pairing – Ribollita Soup, Pappardelle and Lamb Ragu , Tiramisu Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2015 – Smooth and integrated red fruit with nice acidity. A blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. Decanted for two hours. Firm with a long finish and touch of vanilla. SRP $70.

Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2010 – Bright ruby color. A powerful wine with graceful notes of black fruit.

Bold and brilliant. Sangiovese 80%, Merlot 15%, and Cabernet Sauvignon 5%. SRP $70.

Dinner Pairing – Spinach Salad with Cherry Tomatoes, Cannelloni with Braised Beef, Walnuts and Fried Sage, Assorted Chocolates Casalferro IGT 2011 – A single vineyard 100% Merlot Super Tuscan. Expansive with integrated tannins, vibrant red fruit and undertones of earth. Rich and wonderful. SRP $70.

Casalferro IGT 2008 – Also a 100% Merlot, the 2008 is intense with earthy notes and cherry flavors. A bold take on Tuscan wine. SRP $70.

Dinner Pairing – Faro and Country Olive Salad with Walnuts and Raisins, Red Wine Braised Osso Buco over Parmesan Polenta, Mini-Cannoli Roncicone Gran Selezione 2016 - Soft, round and rich Sangiovese with sour cherry and citrus zest. SRP $70.

Colledià Gran Selezione 2015 - A Grand Cru wine for sure. Big and bold with extracted fruit flavors. Rich and rewarding. Decanting necessary. SRP $85.

February 11, 2020 Circulation: 10,000

The Consistent, Superb Quality of Ricasoli 1141 Wines Margot Sinclair Savell For the last month, we have participated in a weekly tasting of some excellent Ricasoli 1141 wines. The brand name underlines that the Ricasoli family has been linked to wine since 1141. This is the oldest winery in Italy and the fourth-oldest family business in the world. The result of all this experience is consistent, superb quality Chianti Classico at several price points. These wines flaunt their pedigree in the first sip.

They will make excellent Valentine’s Day gifts for that special someone. Certainly, they will pair well with any celebration!

Ricasoli History First of all, the heart of the Ricasoli wine production comes from a magnificent castle, Brolio Castello, located in Gaiole in Chianti. The 3,000-acre estate includes 593 acres of sustainably farmed vineyards.

Furthermore, Brolio Castle is a landmark of Chianti Classico.

The beautiful castle welcomes more than 50-thousand visitors each year. They experience tastings and visits to the gorgeous gardens. Osteria del Castello restaurant is also on the premises, featuring traditional Italian cuisine.

In 1872, Baron Bettino Ricasoli, a former prime minister of Italy, developed the original formula for Chianti wine, now called Chianti Classico. This became the standard for the region. And what a legacy!

These days, Baron Francesco Ricasoli heads the winery, and is the 32nd generation Baron of Brolio. Since 1993, he has renovated and remapped the vineyards. His ongoing research into soil mapping and clones are renowned in Italy. Zoning research identified 19 different soil types, many evident to the naked eye.

The topography and geology play a large role in the variety of Chianti and Chianti Classico styles. According to wine educator and writer Lyn Farmer, “The hills of Chianti Classico alter wind patterns, affect sunlight and, with altitude, have an effect on temperature. It is these rolling hills that give us so many microclimates and soil types.” Terroir does speak, he added.

Sangiovese is the reigning variety, but we also tasted two Ricasoli Merlots. What a difference between these old-world wines compared with the new-world ones produced in the U.S. Finally, here is a week-by-week overview of excellent Ricasoli 1141 wines that reflect the family’s 900-year dedication to quality winemaking.

Week 1: Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico 2016 & Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 Ricasoli Wines Week OneBoth the Chianti Classico and the Riserva blend Sangiovese (80%) with Merlot (15%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%). But the Riserva is produced from a careful selection of the best barrels of Brolio. Both wines are somehow soft and elegant at the same time. They feature notes of cherry, licorice, black tea, earthiness and minerality, plus the high acidity and medium tannins typical of Sangiovese. These are basic wines in the Ricasoli portfolio, and “basic” never tasted so good! Aromatic, flavorful, food-friendly, old-world wine – what’s not to love?

Week 2: Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2010 & 2015 Ricasoli Wines Week Two

By law, Gran Selezione wines must be made solely with estate grapes. Known as the most iconic, this is the premium level of Chianti Classico, introduced in 2014 with the 2010 vintage. This flagship 2010 blends 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Not surprisingly, it displays the maturity of a 10-year- old wine. The 2010 is integrated, rich and concentrated, with black cherry, licorice, cinnamon, minerality, and a touch of smoky, savory goodness. The 2015 has 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cab Sauv and 5% Petit Verdot. It features layers of red fruit, black cherry and hints of vanilla and tobacco. This wine is smooth, distinguished, complex and elegant. Bring on the steak!

Week 3: Ricasoli Casalferro 2008 & 2011 Ricasoli Wines Week Three In 2007, Casalferro became a Cru of 100% Merlot. These two vintages, 2008 and 2011, showcase the flavors of Tuscany. These Merlots are so different from new-world Merlot, and both are excellent! The 2008 has an intense nose with aromatics and flavors of cocoa, anise, spices, leather, and lots of red fruit. The 2011 displays more mineral, licorice and cherry notes, but keeps the spices, leathery notes and red berries.

This is obviously, a younger wine, but still rich and powerful.

Week 4: Ricasoli Colledila Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2015 & Roncicone Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione 2016 Ricasoli Wines Week Four Oh my, these are gorgeous, elegant wines, and a perfect way to wrap up a four-week exploration of Ricasoli 1141. 2015 Colledia is velvety rich and mouth-filling, a classic Italian Sangiovese. It opens with aromatics of red fruit, raisins and plum, and offers excellent structure and volume. 2016 Roncicone is a beautiful, bright wine that features lavender, violets and orange peel, with spicy notes and pronounced minerality.

Both these wines would pair well with steak, pasta with a tomato sauce, roasted chicken, spicy foods or mushroom dishes. Notably, many wines would not pair well with tomato sauce, but these are definitely an exception. And they both would also pair extremely well with Valentine’s Day. Summary Above all, many thanks to Ricasoli 1141 for the samples. We also appreciate the dedication and education of sommelier Tina Morey at #winestudio, and wine educator and writer Lyn Farmer.

You can find these stellar Ricasoli wines in the U.S. Of note, the wines from the first two weeks have great distribution here. But the wines for weeks three and four have a more limited release in this country. We hope this historic winery will export more in the future.

As mentioned, these wines will pair well with any special occasion.

January 29, 2020 Circulation: 3,600

THE FIASCO OF CHIANTI Kirsten Georgi When I was young, my parents were super fond of an Italian restaurant in Washington, DC called Luigis.

The restaurant opened in 1943 and closed its doors for good in 2013 (some pretty good longevity). It was a little bit kitsch inside — decor consisted of red and white checkered tablecloths, and basket-covered bottles of Chianti repurposed as candleholders. But now that I think back on it, that’s what I remember — those glorious, wax-covered Chianti bottles.

Those straw covered Chianti bottles are actually called “fiasco”, which is a little ironic because the story of Chianti has been a bit of a fiasco. The bottle itself probably dates to the 14th or 15th centuries, when the basket wrapping added extra protection during shipping. You can still buy Chianti in a fiasco bottle today, just know the wine inside isn’t worth drinking. You’re paying for the bottle — which you can repurpose as a candleholder. It just won’t be completely awesome until it has at least a decade’s worth of melted wax drooling down its sides.

The topic on WineStudio this month is Chianti. (WineStudio is a wine tasting and education series that takes place each Tuesday evening from 9-10pm EST on Twitter). There’s been quite a bit of discussion about Chianti’s 2014 Gran Selezione classification and whether or not it confuses consumers.

Basically, Gran Selezione is Chianti’s attempt to create their own Grand Cru classification. They chopped off the top of the Chianti quality pyramid and set Gran Selezione on top of it.

But will the classification ultimately help the “brand” Chianti, or just further confuse consumers?

Depends on the consumer.

Some folks are dead set on a $6 bottle of Chianti, and no amount of talking to will push them in a different direction. They want their giant bottle of Bolla, and you better not stand in their way.

Other consumers are curious, but confused (and intimidated). And rightly so. After all, Chianti has more options than a Swiss Army knife. There’s Chianti, Chianti Rufina (I won’t even mention the other Chianti sub zones here), Chianti Classico, Chianti Riserva, Chianti Superiore, and Chianti Classico Gran Selezione.

It’s dizzying.

No one has ever asked me specifically for a Gran Selezione. The question I do get is, “Can you help me pick out a good Chianti?”

Absolutely.

Depending on who you ask, the first official “recipe” for Chianti dates back to 1872, and Baron Bettino Ricasoli (a family that’s been around Chianti since the 1140s). The recipe was mostly Sangiovese, with a little Canaiolo (a local grape) added to soften some of Sangiovese’s harder edges. A small portion of white grapes were also permitted.

The problem (or one of them) with Chianti is that the Consorzio (the Italian wine authorities) keeps changing the rules. In 1932, the Consorzio expanded the geographic boundaries of Chianti, and allowed 20% white grapes to be blended into the wines. After World War II, the world was thirsty for inexpensive wine, and the

effect of the geographic expansion and grape rules in Chianti was an emphasis on quantity over quality — rendering most of Chianti into very boring, generic, plonk.

By the 1960s, Baron Ricasoli’s recipe became the rule. Chianti had to be a blended wine, and up to 30% could be white grapes. But if you wanted to make a wine that was 100% Sangiovese or add international grape varieties to the blend, you couldn’t call it Chianti.

Winemakers in Tuscany didn’t especially love being told they couldn’t do something, so they started to blend Sangiovese with international varieties anyway. As such, their wines couldn’t be labeled Chianti, and they didn’t care. Behold, the Super Tuscans. The quality and popularity of these wines soared (and so did the prices). The Super Tuscans appealed to the New World palates of Americans much more than traditional Chianti, which made Chianti producers a little nervous.

In 1984, the Chianti region was promoted from DOC to DOCG (Italy’s highest classification). And in 1996, Chianti Classico (the historic heartland of the region) DOCG was created, which gave autonomy to that region. These moves helped nudge the lower-quality guys off the stage, and brought the spotlight back to Sangiovese.

Also in 1996, the laws changed again (shocker). At that time, Italian wines were often criticized (not by me!) for being too rustic and too acidic. So, the solution was to allow more international varieties, and new French oak (rather than the old, neutral oak that was traditional). Under the new rules for Chianti Classico, Sangiovese had to be at least 80% of the blend, and white grapes were banished. The 20% of the blend that didn’t have to be Sangiovese could include traditional local grapes, as well as international varieties.

Sound familiar?

And then, in 2014, instead of moving in the direction of other world wine regions (like Côte du Rhône Villages, for example), and allowing individual communes/vineyards to be named on labels, the Italian Consorzio came up with the Gran Selezione classification.

Who can keep up?

This is one of the best charts I’ve seen for sorting out the overall Chianti classification situation (via Wine and Other Stories): Additional comments: • • • • • •

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione – Must be made entirely of estate grapes (but not necessarily single vineyard), and approved by a special tasting panel. Outstanding quality. Most of these wines will be in the $50+ category.

Chianti Classico Riserva – Same grape restrictions as Chianti Classico. Outstanding quality. Prices will vary, but count on $25+ for the best quality.

Chianti Classico – Must be at least 80% Sangiovese. A max of 20% other varieties are allowed.

These can include local varieties, but also international varieties. White grapes are NOT allowed.

Excellent quality. Lots of bargains here — usually in the $15-40 range.

Chianti Subzones — Seven subzones can legally label their wines Chianti: Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Rufina (probably the most consistent quality), Chianti Montalbano, Chianti Colli Senesi, Chianti Colline Pisane, Chianti Colli Aretini, and Chianti Montespertoli.

Chianti – Local and international varieties are permitted in small percentages. White grapes Trebbiano and Malvasia are also allowed. Lots of stuff under $10 here, but quality at this level tends to be irregular at best.

Wines labeled Chianti Superiore require an additional .5% of alcohol and lowered vineyard yields.

What do I buy? Gran Selezione is nifty, but not necessary for me. Especially not for everyday drinking. I do spend the extra $$ on Chianti Classico, and often the riserva, because I like the flavors the extra year in

barrel gives to the wine. Plus, so many quality Chianti Classico DOCG producers already make wines using estate (and single vineyard) fruit without submitting for the Gran Selezione classification.

Today, Chianti Classico has shifted focus away from international varieties and smaller/newer barrel aging, and back toward Sangiovese and local varieties, aged in traditional, large oak casks as a method to express individual terroir.

What will be interesting to watch is whether the Consorzio will allow Chianti Classico to include individual commune/vineyard names (based on climate and soils) on labels in the future. And the next question: Would that be enough to entice the Super Tuscans back into the Chianti fold?

Salute!

January 28, 2020 Circulation: 5,000

WTN: Ricasoli Jenise Last night my wine blogger best friend came over to share four bottles that showed up on her doorstep last week. I made beef bolognese: 2008 Barone Ricasoli Casalferro Toscana IGT Merlot 100% Merlot. Big berry fruit, equally red and black, cocoa, coffee and some bramble. Very fresh at first but it aged and turned leathery in the glass. Drink now.

2011 Barone Ricasoli Casalferro Toscana IGT Merlot 100% Merlot. Bright cherry and red plum fruit on the palate with Vit B6 minerality that got stronger on the nose and palate with air. Much more acidity than the '08, and the finish had a slight medicinal note that reminded me of a Piedmontese Chinato. Tannins clamped down hard after an hour in the bottle. Try again in 2023.

2015 Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Colledila Chianti Classico DOCG Sangiovese Classic Italian sangiovese nose of red fruit, raisins and tomato. Mouthfilling. Margot said it reminded her of her mother's Kugl. More rounded and elegant for current drinking than the '16 Roncicone poured next to it in a good way. Drink over the next 3-5 years.

2016 Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Roncicone Chianti Classico DOCG Sangiovese Blend, Sangiovese A bit more raw and tannic than the 2015 Colledila beside it, but only different in the way a year makes with no obvious flavor differences from the other cru. So: red fruit, raisins, tomato, walnut skins and rare beef.

Excellent potential.

Responding to Prinetti’s comments, Francesco Ricasoli at the Ricasoli estate in Gaiole in Chianti, believes that “in some cases he is right, not because of the color of the wine, but because it tastes very little like Sangiovese.” However, Ricasoli is a major advocate of Gran Selezione; “I believe in Gran Selezione for the benefit of the entire group of producers of Chianti Classico. This new category shows how better this appellation has been upgrading its quality in the last 15 – 20 years.” Ricasoli in fact crafts four separate examples of Gran Selezione. Why? “I produce four Gran Selezione because I have four beautiful Sangiovese that deserve full attention!”

At Rocca delle Macie in Castellina in Chianti, proprietor Sergio Zingarelli expounds on other reasons why he believes Gran Selezione is necessary. “In other viticultural areas the most important wines are all under the name of the appellations where they are produced (i.e. Barolo, Brunello...) in Chianti Classico some of the most important wines were IGT (Supertuscan), so we needed a new ‘room’ for the excellent offerings of the single wineries from our area.” Zingarelli notes that in 2014, there were 25 versions of Gran Selezione, while today there are more than 130 wineries producing at least one example.

Zingarelli notes that his Gran Selezione labeled as Sergio Zingarelli, which is from the replanting of an old vineyard was able to be identified as a Gran Selezione when the wine from the 2012 vintage, was released in 2014. “Fortunately in the year of the introduction of this wine, the Consortium approved the new category otherwise, if we hadn't the Gran Selezione, for sure we had been produced a new Supertuscan instead of a Chianti Classico!”

One final note. Many believe that sales of Chianti Classico riserva would suffer, given that this category would be ranked lower than that of Gran Selezione. However, sales figures from the Chianti Classico consorzio show otherwise, as sales of riserva wines in 2016 accounted for 29% of all Chianti Classico sales, with this number increasing to 31.7% in 2017 and 32% in 2018.

So in a short time, Gran Selezione has taken its place in the roster of Chianti Classico without harming sales of other wines. Thus one can argue that the creation of this category was a positive factor. Zingarelli certainly thinks so. “We believe that the Gran Selezione bring to all the Chianti Classico wines greater attention from the media and consumers. A new life also for our Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico riserva because of the trade, and of course wine lovers have more incentives to rediscover the area carried by the attention surrounding Gran Selezione.”

Ricasoli “Castello di Brolio” 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione - Aromas of morel cherry, blackberry, fig and thyme. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Lovely balance, very good acidity, beautiful varietal character, well structured for 10-12 years of aging potential, perhaps longer. Outstanding Ricasoli “Ceni Primo” 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione - This is the initial release of this single vineyard wine - 100% Sangiovese. High tone fruit aromas - ripe morel cherry, dried strawberry with nicely integrated wood notes. Very good to excellent concentration. Rich beautifully balanced tannins, very good acidity, excellent structure and persistence. 12-15 years. Very appealing and stylish, this is a beautifully made wine.

Outstanding Ricasoli “Ceni Primo” 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione - Aromas of incense, rosemary, a hint of balsamic and morel cherry. Excellent concentration, this has a layered mid-palate, excellent persistence, very good acidity, notable varietal character and outstanding complexity. Structured for peak drinking in 1215 years. After only two releases, Ceni Primo is one of Tuscany’s most accomplished wines! Superb

January 16, 2020 Circulation: 113,000,000

The Wines of Barone Ricasoli - Over 800 Years of Tuscan Excellence Tom Hyland Thirty years ago when I was selling wine for a local distributor in Chicago, there were a lot of things about the industry that were new to me. I had worked at a wine store for a few years and had a basic grasp of the world’s wines, but there was a great deal to learn. One of the wine brands I had become familiar with in retail was Brolio, a famed producer of Chianti Classico, so when I started to sell these wines for the distributor, I was excited to do so.

Brolio was as famous a name as there was back then when you considered the wines of Tuscany, as they had been producing wine continuously since 1141. Just to survive for more than 850 years was amazing to me, and when you considered the quality of their wines, you truly had a remarkable story to tell.

Over the past three decades, there have been changes to the way that Brolio - sometimes referred to as Castello di Brolio, named for the magnificent castello that dominates the property - conducted business.

Proprietor Francesco Ricasoli has overseen several revisions in distribution and importing overseas in recent years, but one thing that has not changed is the first-rate quality of the wines. Today, the offerings of Barone Ricasoli - Francesco is a baron, hence the name - are as exceptional as ever, and the story becomes even more noteworthy.

Some historical background is needed to fully explain the significance of Barone Ricasoli as Francesco is great-grandson of Bettino Ricasoli, the individual who created the recipe for Chianti in the 19th century, which at the time was based on Sangiovese, with a few other indigenous red varieties (Canaiolo and Colorino) along with two white varieties, Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia. There have been many changes to Chianti Classico along the way, as today the white varieties are not allowed, and a Chianti Classico can be produced exclusively from Sangiovese, an important revision for Ricasoli and other area producers, as time would tell.

Today, Francesco Ricasoli, the 32nd Barone Ricasoli, is president of the company, which he has renamed Ricasoli 1141. He assumed his current duties in 1993 and over the past 25 years, has increased and finetuned the portfolio, taken the necessary steps to increase quality and at the same time, bring more attention to this historic property. The sheer size of this estate, located in Gaiole in Chianti, in the southern sector of the Chianti Classico territory, is breathtaking, with a total of 3000 acres, of which 590 acres are planted to vines. This is by far the largest estate in Chianti Classico; in fact, the amount of vineyards here is only a few acres smaller than the commune of Barbaresco in Piedmont, home to several dozen producers.

Today, there are several versions of Chianti Classico available from Barone Ricasoli, ranging from two annata versions, a riserva, and four different examples of Gran Selezione, as well as a 100% Merlot named Casalferro. Vineyards at the estate range from 220 to 500 meters (720 to 1640 feet) above sea level, and soils vary from limestone, to marine deposits to fluvial terrace; these being poorly structured silty soils with clay.

Together with his agronomists, Ricasolo oversaw years of research as to learn the differences in Sangiovese character in these various soils, and the result has been better balanced wines of greater complexity. This is especially true in the Gran Selezione wines, of which there are four. Why four, when most Chianti Classico producers make one or perhaps two of these wines in top vintages? “I produce four Gran Selezione wines because I have four beautiful Sangiovese that deserve full attention!,� Ricasoli remarks.

Ricasoli notes that all of his vineyards have been replanted since 1994, and “now they are reaching a better maturity.” Tasting the Gran Selezione wines here is a true revelation as to the superior quality of Ricasoli wines. One, called Castello di Brolio, has been produced in the best vintages for more than two decades, while the other three are cru (single vineyard) offerings that were first crafted from the 2015 vintage; the 2016 versions have recently been released.

I tasted these wines with Ricasoli himself during my most recent visit to the estate in September, 2019 and was given an in-depth soil analysis by Ricasoli, explaining why the decision was made to produce these wines - for several years, some of these grapes were included in other wines, such as the riserva or the Castello di Brolio, but as of 2015 Ricasoli believed the time was right to introduce these wines.

While I thought the wines were each highly distinctive and of exemplary quality, the Ceni Primo stood out as my favorite. This is a single vineyard of only six hectares (15 acres) and is located on an ancient fluvial geological formation. The newly released 2016 is an extraordinary representation of Chianti Classico, with intense aromas of incense, balsamic and other notes to go along with the beautifully ripe morel cherry perfumes. Quite rich on the palate, this offers outstanding complexity and superb persistence. 2016 was a great growing season in Chianti Classico, following an outstanding 2015 vintage, which resulted in powerful wines of great varietal character, while those from 2016 were only slightly less rich on the palate, but perhaps with a touch more acidity.

Both versions of Ceni Primo are among the best Tuscan wines of their respective years, and point to the bold vision of Francesco Ricasoli. The 850-plus year history of Brolio continues with a new perspective, one that has never wavered from a simple goal - to produce classic wines from Chianti Classico. Bravo, Francesco!

Ceni Primo Ricasoli Ceni Primo Chianti Classico Gran SelezioneCOURTESY FOLIO WINE PARTNERS Casalferro 2015 - 100% Merlot. Aromas of red cherry, cherry preserves and a hint of almond. Medium-full with very good concentration, elegant tannins, very good acidity and nicely integrated wood notes. Ideal harmony; a lovely expression of Merlot. Quite delicious now, with peak drinking in 10-12 years. Outstanding Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 - Aromas of red plum, morel cherry and hint of marjoram and thyme. Mediumfull with very good concentration. Lovely balance, subdued wood notes, good acidity, impressive persistence. Classic styling. Peak in 7-10 years. Excellent “Castello di Brolio” 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione - Aromas of morel cherry, blackberry, fig and thyme. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Lovely balance, very good acidity, beautiful varietal character, well structured for 10-12 years of aging potential, perhaps longer. Outstanding “Colledilà” 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione - Aromas of morel cherry, currant, rose petals and red poppy, Medium-full with excellent persistence. Outstanding persistence, lovely structure, rich tannins that are nicely balanced. Excellent structure. Peak in 12-15 years. Outstanding “Roncicone” 2016 - Chianti Classico Gran Selezione - Red cherry, black spice and dried red flower aromas.

Rich mid-palate, excellent persistence, very good acidity and a distinct note of minerality in the finish, which adds to the complexity and singularity of this wine. Beautiful overall harmony. Give time - peak in 12-15 years. Superb “Ceni Primo” 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione - This is the initial release of this single vineyard wine - 100% Sangiovese. High tone fruit aromas - ripe morel cherry, dried strawberry with nicely integrated wood notes. Very good to excellent concentration. Rich beautifully balanced tannins, very good acidity, excellent structure and persistence. 12-15 years. Very appealing and stylish, this is a beautifully made wine.

Outstanding

“Ceni Primo” 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione - Aromas of incense, rosemary, a hint of balsamic and morel cherry. Excellent concentration, this has a layered mid-palate, excellent persistence, very good acidity, notable varietal character and outstanding complexity. Structured for peak drinking in 12-15 years.

After only two releases, Ceni Primo is one of Tuscany’s most accomplished wines! Superb 2011 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico - The Ricasoli family has been producing classic Vin Santo for several decades; Francesco continues this great tradition, crafting this wine today primarily with local white varieties Malvasia (90%) and Trebbiano (5%), and a small amount of Sangiovese (5%). Light amber/aromas of apricot, heather, honey and candied pineapple. Medium-full with very good concentration. Very good acidity (a key to the longevity of this wine), excellent persistence and a lightly sweet, off-dry finish. Lovely delicate nature to this wine.

There are several styles of Vin Santo produced in Chianti Classico. The Brolio style has always been a more elegant version with charm and grace, rather than one that offers lushness and power. Approachable now, but will be much better in another 2-3 years. As far as peak drinking, I can only hazard a guess as some vintages of this wine from the 1940s and 1950s are still in excellent condition. My guess on this 2011 is that it will peak in another 20 years. Outstanding

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4 La Rioja Alta Rioja 890 Gran Reserva Selecci6n Especial 2005 ($175) I SPAIN

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Gran Selezione – The Leading Path For Chianti Classico Tom Hyland Chianti Classico has long been one of Italy’s most famous and successful red wines. Everyone knows the wines from this district in Tuscany, situated between the cities of Florence and Siena. Made primarily from Sangiovese (minimum 80%), the wines are loved across the globe.

While familiarity is generally a good thing for wine sales, it can also be a hindrance, as buyers, searching for something new and exciting, might take a pass on the tried and true. Perhaps sensing this, as well as trying to stay relevant with those looking for the highest rated wines, the Chianti Classico consorzio introduced a new category in 2014, that of Chianti Classico Gran Selezione.

Basically, this would be the “top” category for a Chianti Classico producer; previously, a producer’s riserva represented his or her best wine. To highlight the differences between a Gran Selezione and a riserva or other examples of Chianti Classico, regulations were put into place to make these wines stand out. Among these were edicts that stated a Gran Selezione had to be from grapes grown at the winery’s estate; the wine could be made from a single vineyard or from a selection of the estate’s best grapes. Minimum required aging would be 30 months, up from a minimum of 24 months for a riserva, while minimum alcohol percentage would be 13%, slightly higher than the 12.5% necessary for a riserva.

Immediately, producers took sides, with some welcoming this new classification as a sign of quality, while other vintners thought this an unnecessary step. This latter group believed, among other things, that a riserva Chianti Classico was a symbol of very high quality, and that it would suffer next to the new classification of Gran Selezione.

Today, more producers have warmed up to the idea of Gran Selezione, although there there are some that still question its need. Giovanni Manetti, President of the Consorzio Chianti Classico and proprietor of the Fontodi winery in Panzano in Chianti is a strong believer in this category. “Definitely, yes. It was a good decision. The intention was to make top quality Chianti Classico wines selecting the best grapes from the estate’s own vineyards. The selection takes place during the harvest and requires a great deal of hard work from the winegrower.

“I am convinced that work like this, selecting for quality, can further bring out the territorial features of the various Chianti Classico production zones. In support of this, we also have the privilege of working with Sangiovese, a grape variety that is more able than any other to reflect the local area in which it is grown, like the negative of a photo.”

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SOMM JOURNAL (THE)

{ the ransom report }

by David Ransom

Going All in on Gran Selezione CHIANTI CLASS I CO'S NEWEST EXPRESSION IS !=INDING ITS GROOVE:

THE WINES OF Chianti Classico have long held a place on the American table due to their high quality-to-value ratio and broad appeal. So, when producers announced in 20 I 3 that they were credting a new category within the DOCG regulations to join the already available Chianti Class1co (normale) and Chianti Classico Riserva exp1-essions, the decision was, as expected, met with a fair degree of fanfare.

What is Gran Selezione? Stylistically, it's envi­ sioned as a wine that a given producer considers as its premier cuvee. "Chianti Classico has gained in qualrty over the last decade or two, and we felt the timing was right to raise the bar and come out with a DOCG, not IGT, wine that we feel deser,es a place at the table next to Italy's top wines," says fraocesrn Ric;asoli owner of Barone Ricasoli (imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners). "The Gran Selezione is that wine."

As for how it's pmduced, here are a few details on the winemaking requirements: A Gran Selezione must contain a minimum of 80% ,1ngiovese, have an alcohol content of at least I 3%, and be made exclusively from estate-grown fi·uit. After these criteria are met, the wine's path

is pretty much up to the winery, though it must age for a minimum of 30 months-including three months in bottle-before release (there is, however, no set oak-aging requirement).

These rules leave a lot of room for interpreta­ tion. Most producers create a blend, but some. including Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini of Borgo Scopeto (imported by Vineyard Brands), insist on making their Gran Selezione from I 00% Sangiovese. "It's our most important grape," says Gnudi Angelini. "I feel our most important wine should reflect this."

As with many wine regions that broaden their horizons, Chianti Classico's first efforts at making Gran Selezione were hit-and-miss, and I think some producers were having trouble differen­ tiating their Gran Selezione from their Riserva.

Recently, though, I've found cohesiveness within the category's ranks, and as a keen student of Tuscany and Chianti, I'm delighted at the way things have progressed. Five years later, there are still some critics, but their numbers are depleted; the wines, meanwhile, are starting to carve out their own sections on lists, showing that this top­ end Chianti Classico is here to stay. SJ

The Co/ledila Vineyard grows Sangiovese for Barone Ricaso/i's Colledila Gran Selezione, which comprises 100% Sangiovese. The producer also makes a blended Gran Selezione.

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Sips and Eats Around the Boot: A Primer to Italian Wines and Pairings #ItalianFWT Camilla Mann Buon Anno! To kick off a new year and a new decade, the Italian Food Wine Travel bloggers are sharing advice about Italian wines, specifically how you would introduce a friend to Italian wines. Jeff of Food Wine Click! is hosting; read his invitation here. That seems a very broad topic, so there should be plenty to learn.

If you are reading this early enough, feel free to join our live Twitter chat on Saturday, January 4th, at 8 o'clock (Pacific time). You can follow the hashtag #ItalianFWT and be sure to include that if you chime in so we can see your tweets. In the meantime, here's the line-up of articles from the bloggers...

All our blog posts will go live between Friday Jan. 3 and Saturday morning Jan. 4. You’re sure to find some great advice for digging in to Italian wine. Why not join our chat to learn even more? Just search for #ItalianFWT on Twitter and tune in 10-11am CST on Saturday Jan. 4. We’d love to hear what you think.

Around the Boot For my January #ItalianFWT contribution, I decided to create as comprehensive a primer as I could on Italian wine - along with food pairings. So, whether you've only just begun to explore Italian wines or are an expert, I hope you'll find something new and interesting here.

There are nearly twenty regions around the boot. I'm going to start at the toe and work my way around to the heel, ending with the islands of Sardinia and Sicily. Apologies in advance for this Odyssey-long post.

But, if you stick with me, I hope you learn something new...or are tempted to track down wines from these areas.

Calabria I have been to Calabria, actually a handful of times, but it's always been more of a pitstop on my way to and from Sicily versus a region that I explored on its own. I will have to change that one of these days.

Calabria is the Italian region that occupies the toe of the Italian boot. A peninsula bounded by the Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas, Calabria is separated from Sicily by the narrow Strait of Messina. Calabrian wines reflect the coastal climate. Its Cirò DOC produces mostly red wines based on the tannic Gaglioppo grape.

Gaglioppo is one of the grapes that is cultivated there and winemaking has been in the area since the time of the ancient Olympic games. So, logic followed that Gaglioppo had Greek origins, but recent DNA tests indicate that the grape exhibits a close genetic relationship between Sangiovese and ten other Italian grape varieties. So, it's a distinct varietal that includes several parent grapes.

I have only tried one Gaglioppo. You can read about that in my Braised Beef Cheeks over Garlic Gnocchi + Statti Calabria Gaglioppo 2015.

There are a few white wines produced from Greco Bianco and Montonico Bianco. Other varieties include Nerello Cappuccio and Nerello Mascalese.

Basilicata The region of Basilicata, in Italy is at the instep of the Italian "boot," bordering Campania to the west, Apulia (Puglia) to the north and east, and Calabria to the south. Its capital is Potenza. Characterized by extremes of temperature and terrain, its most famous is the full-bodied black grape Aglianico grape where it was first introduced by the Greeks in the 6th and 7th centuries. The varietal also goes by Aglianico Del Vulture, Aglianico, or Taurasi and has different characteristics in the different wine-making regions. While the wines from Campania tend to have more earthy tones, the ones from Basilicata are more fruit-forward.

I think that Aglianico shares some of my favorite characteristics of Barolo - think violets, anise, and truffles.

It's rustic, earthy, and tannic. And this bold, native-fermented version is gorgeous with notes of cherry and pepper. Other varieties include Fiano, Greco Bianco, Malvasia Bianca, and Moscato.

I recently posted Italy Meets Argentina: Empanadas de Carne + Azienda Bisceglia Terra di Vulcano Aglianico del Vulture 2016 for December's #ItalianFWT event. And back in 2018, I poured and shared notes about the Feudi di San Gregorio Aglianico Rubrato 2014, though that bottle was from Campania and not Basilicata.

Campania Speaking of Campania, this region is most known for Naples, Pompeii, and the Amalfi Coast. Familiarity with the region's wines has been on the rise in the United States, as interest in volcanic wines grows. For red wines, the DOCGs you are likely to encounter are Taurasi DOCG and Aglianico del Taburno DOCG which are both based on Aglianico. For white wines, you will most often encounter Fiano di Avellino DOCG and Greco di Tufo DOCG, based respectively on the Fiano and Greco grapes. Other varieties include Caprettone, Falanghina, and Piedirosso.

In 2016 we focused on volcanic wines; you can read my post Scorched Terroir and Explosive Wines. For that, I had poured The Villa Dora Vesuvio Rosso, a red wine from Vesuvio made from Piedirosso and Aglianico grapes and Villa Dora Vigna del Vulcano Bianco Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, a white wine made from Coda di Volpe and Falanghina.

Lazio Lazio is home to the capital city of Rome. And for reasons beyond my comprehension, I do not have a single post about wines from Lazio. I lived there for over a year; you would think I would have written something. However, the region has a reputation for easy-drinking, youthful whites such as those produced in the Frascati and Orvieto DOCs. And those are not the wines I typically purchase. I will have to remedy my lack of post soon. Mi dispiace moltissimo! Other varieties in the region include Cesanese, Merlot, Sangiovese.

While my blog lacks wines from Lazio, since I learned to cook in Rome, there is no dearth of Roman recipes to be had. My favorites: Pizza Con Patate, SupplĂŹ al Telefono, and Stracciatella alla Romana.

Umbria Umbria is bordered by Tuscany to the west, Marche to the east and Lazio to the south. Partly hilly and partly flat, and fertile owing to the valley of the Tiber, its topography includes part of the central Apennines.

Completely landlocked, it is the only Italian region having neither a coastline nor a common border with other countries. Back in 2015, I paired Roasted Flank Steak with Zucchini-Mint Pesto with an Umbrian Merlot.

This tiny central Italian region produces some tannic, cellar-worthy reds from the Sagrantino de Montefalco DOCG. Grechetto, a dry, crisp white, would be the most well known white varietal.

Other varieties to seek out would be Canaiolo, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Trebbiano.

Tuscany I spent some time in Tuscany during my year in Italy. And I still dream about the porchetta sandwich I had in an alleyway in Florence. Read about those memories here.

There would be no argument in saying that Tuscan wines are the most well-known Italian wines in the United States. It is the home of Chianti after all! Back in November, the #ItalianFWT event was sponsored

by Ricasoli and I posted Castello di Brolio Olio e Vino: Schiacciata all'Uva + 2015Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione.

Tuscany is centrally located along the Tyrrhenian Sea on the west coast of the boot and stretches inland across bucolic hills. For red wines, Tuscany's most famous Sangiovese-based wines are the Chianti, Chianti Classico ,Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino DOCGs thought several wines are labeled as Toscana IGT because they don’t conform to traditional production rules. Other varieties in the region include: Canaiolo Nero, Trebbiano, and Vermentino.

Regarding Tuscan eats, I already mentioned porchetta, but I had my first panzanella in San Gimignano and make seasonal variations whenever I have leftover bread. Case in point: Panzanella di Primavera made with asparagus, fennel, and artichokes; Clash of the Seasons Panzanella where summer collides with autumn made with tomatoes and mushrooms.

Liguria Liguria lies, along the coast of the Ligurian Sea, with France to the west, Piedmont to the north, and EmiliaRomagna and Tuscany to the east. This narrow region is bordered by the sea, the Alps, and the Apennines mountains. It focuses largely on white wine varietals with Vermentino and Pigato making up the lion's share of the exports to the United States. The main red wine is Rossese which is found in the fruity, aromatic Dolceacqua DOC. Other important varietals in the region are Ciliegiolo, Dolcetto, and Sangiovese.

Looking back through our #ItalianFWT posts, I somehow missed a Ligurian pairing, but I did share the ubiquitous Carciofi Crudi. Now I'm on the hunt for a Ligurian wine. Soon!

Piedmont Located in northwest Italy, Piedmont (Piemonte) lies at the foot of the western Alps. The climate is influenced by both the mountain chill and the Mediterranean warmth which creates the perfect growing conditions for Nebbiolo, the black grape responsible for the region’s most famous wines: Barolo DOCG and Barbaresco DOCG. Two other red grapes - Barbera and Dolcetto - are also well-known and enjoyed for their more accessible price points.

Piedmont white wines are less common, but Cortese and Arneis grapes are often used. The former is the sole grape in Gavi DOCG, while the latter thrives in Roero DOCG. And you might recognize the sweet fizz that is Moscato d’Asti, made in the Asti DOCG. Other varieties include Brachetto, Freisa, Grignolino, Nascetta, Ruché, Timorasso, and Vespolina In 2017, I paired Zuppa di Cipolla al Vino Rosso + Bava’s “Gionson” Nebbiolo. And, more recently, I found a trio of wines from Piemonte. I paired Wild Boar Tamales + 2018 Cascina San Lorenzo Barbera. The other pairings will be coming soon.

Valle d’Aosta

Nestled in the Alps, Valle d’Aosta is a unique region of Italy as it's isolated by the mountains and highly influenced by its French neighbors. While many Valdonstani people speak all three languages, Italian and French are the official languages with Valdôtain being a common local dialect.

Valle d'Aosta is Italy's smallest winemaking region in both acreage and case production. Three-quarters of the area's wines are red, made mostly from the Pinot Noir, Gamay and Petit Rouge varieties. There is a white wine that I tried, unsuccessfully, to locate - a white wine made from the indigenous Prié Blanc grape.

I'll keep looking. I discovered that very little wine from the region makes it to the United States; I didn't uncover why that is. If anyone knows, I'd love to hear it.

In 2015, I paired Pluot-Glazed Duck Legs and Les Cretes Torrette 2011. The wine was a blend of 70% Petite Rouge and 30% other indigenous red grapes. Other varietals to keep an eye open for are Pinot Nero, Fumin, Moscato, and Petit Arvine.

Lombardy One of Italy’s largest regions, Lombardy lies in northern Italy and shares a border with Switzerland and is known particularly for its sparkling wines made in the Franciacorta and Oltrepò Pavese areas. The Franciacorta DOCG, along Lake Iseo, is a sparkling wine made in the metodo classico (traditional method) from Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero. For red wines, Nebbiolo is the main grape in Valtellina Rosso DOC, Valtellina Superiore DOCG and Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG. Other varieties of note are Barbera and Croatina Researching Lombardy’s food specialties, I realized that we eat a lot of them regularly without realizing that they hailed from there. Think saffron risotto, bresaola, and the cheeses. You know I love the cheeses Gorgonzola, from the town of the same name; Mascarpone (we have made our own mascarpone...forgive the spelling error on the photo, please!); parmesan-style Grana; Robiola soft cheese; and Bel Paese.

And panettone, from Milan, is one of our favorite Christmas sweets. The Precise Kitchen Elf makes it for us every year. Here's his recipe. In 2018, the #ItalianFWT shared pairings with Valtellina wines. I posted Short Ribs + the Balgera Valtellina Superiore Inferno.

Trentino-Alto Adige Home to the Dolomites, Trentino-Alto Adige is a conglomeration of Italian and Austro-Hungarian influence.

This is another region that I haven't explored on my blog, but this sunny, high-elevation area produces from interesting varietals that I will begin to explore this year. For red wines, well-known grapes are Pinot Nero, Schiava and Lagrein; for whites, Pinot Grigio reigns supreme though Chardonnay is also popular especially as the base for metodo classico sparkling wine from Trento DOC. Other varietals include Gewürztraminer, Kerner, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Teroldego.

Traditional food from the region also seem to have an alpine feel such as canederli, bread balls made with speck or pancetta with milk, eggs and cheese and tradtionally served in a broth or with a bath of butter.

Then there's strangolapreti, potato-spinach gnocchi served with plenty of parmesan cheese and melted butter. Look for a post for one of these and some wines in the near future.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia This region lies in northeast Italy - in the far corner, bordering Slovenia and Austria - and includes the provinces of Trieste, Gorizia, Pordenone, and Udine. Due to its geography, the region has quite a unique blend of Italian, Slavic, and Austrian cultural roots.

More than three-quarters of the production is white wine, primarily centered on Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Ribolla Gialla, and Friulano. Reds are less well-known and are typically made from Merlot, Refosco, and Schioppettino grapes. You might also find selections of Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Picolit, and Verduzzo.

Speaking of Ribolla Gialla, I have tried one from the Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC which is located within the Italian wine region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Grapes have been thriving in that region since the Roman era. Rarely seen elsewhere, I was excited track down a bottle of Ronchi di Cialla Ribolla Gialla 2017. I paired it with Coniglio in Agrodolce and discovered that the wine embodied everything I read about that indigenous grape - it was light-bodied with bright acidity and floral notes.

Veneto Rife with history and wine, the Veneto offers a breadth of varietals and styles due to its numerous microclimates. Look at its environs: the Alps in the north; Lake Garda in the west; and the Adriatic Sea to the southeast. And while the region has many renowned wines, it's the sheer volume of Pinot Grigio and the popularity of Prosecco that have launched it into legendary status.

The #ItalianFWT group did a deep dive into Prosecco Superiore recently. You can read my posts: Seared Agrodolce Duck Breasts + Nebbia ValdobbiadeneProsecco Superiore; Perlage Winery's 'Riva Moretta' Prosecco ValdobbiadeneFrizzante + A Cheeseboard; Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Millesimato ExtraDry from Prosecco Toffoli with roasted lobster; and Steamed Clams, Smoked Scallops, and Capellini + Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze.

But it's not all about the bubbles. The red wines of Valpolicella DOC and Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG are both based primarily on Corvina, a black grape varietal. In the summer of 2017, I poured a 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva with a cheese board. Other varietals in the region include Garganega, the main white grape in the Soava DOC, Trebbiano in the Lugana DOC...also Cabernet Franc, Corvinone, Merlot, Molinara, and Rondinella.

Emilia-Romagna Emilia-Romagna is a region in northern Italy, extending from the Apennines to the Po River. It's known for its medieval cities and seaside resorts. Bologna, its capital is a vibrant city with an 11th-century university while Ravenna, near the Adriatic coast, is renowned for its brightly colored mosaics dating to the times of the Byzantine empire.

Emilia-Romagna is the region is best known for Lambrusco, a sparkling red wine. Other key varietals include Trebbiano, Albana, Malvasia, and Sangiovese. The #ItalianFWT bloggers did a deep dive into Lambrusco in May of 2019. Initially, I paired Torta Barozzi + Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Amabile. Then I gave it a second look with Warmed Brie with Mulberry Chutney + Cleto Chiarli Lambruscodi Sorbara Vecchia Modena 2018.

Marche Marche, pronounced mar-Kay, lies along the eastern coast of central Italy. It’s home to Rosso Cònero DOC, based on black grape Montepulciano. Other varietals you'll find there include: Passerina, Pecorino, and Trebbiano.

I haven't tried too many wines from here, but I have poured a couple different Pecorino. Native to the central Italian region of Marche, it's said that the sugar-heavy grape was dubbed Pecorino because of its appeal to the woolly animals. I didn't have time to track down the veracity of that claim, but it's a nice story.

Also, Verdicchio is one of the most widely planted white grape varieties in the Marche region. It's the grape behind two of the Marche's most important DOCs – Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica. I was able to track down a bottle of each.

Read a couple of my Marche pairings: Oven-Roasted Trout with Citrus Salsa Crudo + 2017 Lunaria"Civitas" Pecorino and Bisci Verdicchio di Matelica with a Panzanella di Primavera.

Abruzzo

Next to Lazio on the Adriatic side, Abruzzo is a mountainous region rife with ancient winemaking traditions.

Abruzzo is known primarily for the Montepulciano grape; the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC is the regionwide denomination for red wines made from the grape, while Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC is the denomination for the region’s rosé wines made from the same variety and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC is the main white grape of the region. Other varieties include Chardonnay, Cococciola, Passerina, Pecorino, and Sangiovese.

Back in 2015, I paired Polpi in Purgatorio with 2012 La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo; and in 2016, I matched Pizza con Patate {Gluten-free} + Cantina Zaccagnini Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Rosé.

For the #ItalianFWT October 2019 event, I received Citra Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOP 2017, Caldora Montepulciano D'Abruzzo 2016, and Passerina IGP Terre di Chieti 2017 as samples. You can read my pairing here, for one of the wines: Scrippelle 'mbusse + Ferzo Passerina Molise Molise lies in south-central Italy, between the Apennines and the Adriatic. And, caseophile that I am, I am definitely on the hunt for some of their dairy products, in particular the caciocavallo and stracciata cheeses of Agnone and Alto Molise, fior di latte cow’s milk mozzarella from Boiano, buffalo mozzarella from Venafro, and pecorino sheep’s cheese from Matese. I have had the ubiquitous scamorza and burrino, a butter-filled cheese.

Today, the Molise wine region produces three DOC wines: Biferno, Pentro di Isernia, and Molise. Biferno is dominated by its Trebbiano and Montepulciano wines. Other varieties in the region include Aglianico, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, and Tintilia.

Apparently, I've only posted one pairing: Risotto agli Spinaci with a Montepulciano-Aglianico Blend. More soon!

Puglia Puglia forms the heel of Italy's boot. Though I never made it to Puglia in the 13 months I lived in Rome blush, blush - I will definitely add it to my list of places I want to visit. Boasting almost 500 miles of coastline, this seaside-loving gal would be very content to find a beach, uncork a bottle, and read a book. Many books...with many bottles of wine!

But I have always been intrigued by the trulli, white mushroom-shaped dwellings from the Middle Ages, in Alberobello. One of these days, I'll make it there.

This southern wine region has blossomed in popularity for its wines based on indigenous grapes. You'll also find Primitivo (also known as Zinfandel), Negroamaro, Chardonnay, Bombino Bianco, Bombino Nero, Moscato, Nero di Troia, and Susumaniello.

You can read previous Puglia posting I've done: Handmade Orechiette with Tomaresca Neprica and Insalata con Polpi in Umido e Patate, even though my wine didn't make it in time for that pairing.

Sicily I have actually been to Sicily. More than once. I love it and its surrounding islands! When I lived in Rome for a year, after college, I took a week long trip through Sicily and ended up on Lìpari, the largest in a chain of islands in a volcanic archipelago situated in between Vesuvius and Etna. I rented a cottage on a family's farm in Lìpari and was able to see them putting up a tomato harvest for the year. Truly amazing.

Then, a few years later, I returned to Sicily with my husband and some friends and family. We stayed in Palermo then were stranded on Ustica, an island off the northwest coast, for a week. I write 'stranded' because we had only planned to be there for two days; but storms came in and no boats were returning to

Palermo. That was one of my favorite travel delays. We had rented a house from a man named Antonio who left us fresh herbs and fresh eggs during our stay. He also sent us off with some salt-cured capers.

Before that, I had never seen capers growing in the wild.

If only I had a slide scanner, I would share some photos of my travel through Sicily. I was still shooting on slide film back then. I still dream of those sun-kissed islands that smelled of citrus, salt, and cypress trees.

The largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily's climate is perfect for viticulture. Nero d'Avola produces some fruity, medium-bodied reds while Grillo is made into juicy, luscious whites. In southern Sicily, Nero d'Avola is often blended with Frappato for the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG. Other grape varietals include Nerello Mascalese, Carricante, Catarratto, and Inzolia.

Read a few of my Sicilian pairings: Gnocchi Con Salsa di Pistacchi + Donnafugata Sherazade Rose 2014; Sicilian Regaleali Rosso + Pasta Con Le Sarde; and, with a white wine from the Etna DOC, I poured Pesce Spada al Salmoriglio (Swordfish with Salmoriglio Sauce).

Sardinia I have several fond memories of Sardegna (Sardinia) from when I spent my birthday weekend there over two decades ago. I was living and working in Rome and was determined to spend my 24th birthday doing something memorable. I asked all of the other au pairs to come with me and only Kristin took me up on it.

We were lacking in money, but made up for it with our sense of adventure.

This island in the Mediterranean is better known for beaches and Pecorino cheese than wine, but more producers now export to the United States than ever. Wines to look for include Cannonau, the local name for Grenache; Carignano or Carignan; Vermentino from the northeast; and Monica.

The pairing photographed above is my Island Memories, Slow-Roasted Lamb, and Cannonau Di Sardegna.

Well, if you've read this far, I hope you've enjoyed this virtual journey around Italy's boot - some sips and eat from all the wine regions. Grazie mille for sticking with me. Next month the #ItalianFWT bloggers will be taking a look a wine cooperatives in Italy with Kevin at Snarky Wine leading the discussion. Can't wait, especially since I have no idea where to start. I love learning from this group. Cin cin!