WHERE THERE'S TRAVEL, THERE'S A STORY
IDENTITY
RACE Travelers discuss identity politics
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Archivists Note From Brazilian Favelas to the streets of Brooklyn and over to the front lines of conflict, this issue celebrates identity and community and the many ways they and we interconnect.
What are we? Who are we? What do we stand for? These are all questions we've had to ask ourselves over the last year while creating Griots Republic. Take issues surrounding race, ethnicity, gender, nationality and whole host of other identifying markers and layer on a rabid case of wanderlust and you easily begin to realize that things are never just black and white. So let's dive into the grey. We gathered urban travelers from different walks of life and asked them for their stories. What we received was a gift. An idea that no matter how far we travel or how complicated our Identity is, there is single thread that connects us all... The need for community. So in the spirit of community we bring you Griots Republic, the digital magazine for urban travelers. We look forward to exploring more of our world together, rooting out travelers you want to know and capturing stories you want to hear. In the interim, welcome to our inaugural issue. THE ARCHIVISTS
Immigration and the Black British experience, Jendella Benson's view should not be missed. Foodies should love Kelis' book... Rodney did. Check out his review in this issue as well. We have been stalking photographer Matika Wilbur for a minute. We finally got her to sit long enough to learn more about her project. #Amazing
CONTRIBUTORS For full bios and social media links to all of the writers, photographers, and editors from this issue. Please visit www.GriotsRepublic.com.
IG photographer READING LIST
SAY 'YES' TO A NEW YEAR Is this the next book to add you your reading list? "YES!" By Rodney Goode
of insight into the psyche of this creative force of nature. At some points, this professed introverts shedding light on her life almost makes the reader feel like they are intruding and that makes the reader respect (even treasure) the gift she is giving you within its covers. Without revealing too much, The Year of Yes begins when her sister mutters six words under breath: You never say yes to anything. From that point, Rhimes walks the reader through the impact of those words and all she must overcome to begin to say 'yes.' She tells the tale of a lying introvert (this will make more sense after reading) who says 'yes' to meeting the President of the United States, to appearing on Jimmy Kimmel, and 'yes' in some more personal and private ways. In many ways the tale is honest, sobering and sometime humorous. Rhimes simply wants to do better, be better.
THE CONCLUSION
THE GIST There is something intriguing about the close of an old year and the onset of the new. For some it signifies the end of twelve months of successes and the mystery of newer and greater things ahead while for others, it means putting 365 days of arduous challenges behind and the hope of better things to come. Regardless of how you look at it, the New Year means just that, a new year to try again. That’s
what makes the first book, “The Year of Yes” is perfectly timed. Reading this book with no knowledge of who Rhimes is will be a challenge because without understanding her celebrity, the journey outlined in this book may not have the same impact. However, if you are a fan of Grey’s Anatomy, Scandal, or How to Get Away With Murder, this book provides the reader with both fascinating and interesting tidbits
The Year of Yes will probably be heralded as a “Self-Help” book, but arguably it’s just an opportunity for Rhimes to publicly purge, declare her victory, and celebrate her success. The best part is it’s not preachy like so many books of this type where the author, because of their success, proclaims to be a guru of sorts and gives the reader a sense that if they do not learn from the writers errors, the reader will never be successful, nor is it a guidebook that gives the reader a step-by-step process for improvement. The Year of Yes is simply an account of an incident that sends the writer on a different avenue in her life’s journey. Rhimes’ openness is the reader’s gain.
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©Peter McConnochie
TYPES OF TRAVEL SUNGLASSES By Cabral M’rithi Miller
Very few statement accessories are as universal as sunglasses. Since travel, especially amongst today’s urban millennials, is on the rise, people are looking to accessories as the perfect travel companions. Considered the “AMEX of Travel,” because one should not leave home without them, sunglasses can make or break your experience and elevate your selfie game! Here we break down the five types of sunglasses that are perfect for your next vacation, whether you visit The Caribbean, Europe or choose to luxuriate right here in The States.
Wayfarer Perfect with any other outfit or occasion, the Wayfarer is the travel companion you cannot afford to leave home without. Tip: Perfect for those avoiding trends and complimentary for people with small, oval faces.
By Dwayne July
Oversized Offering more protection from sunburn and perhaps the paparazzi, this pair of ostentatious sunnies are usually round with a strong feminine brow line and used to minimize the arch of your noses. Tip: Works with almost every face type and great for hiding from your fans or frenemies. Aviator Versatile, with a military vibe, these pieces are outfitted with bayonet earpieces and are designed to prevent light from entering the eye from almost any angle. Tip: Round or smaller faces are ideal.
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Animal Print A departure from the basic black these sunnies are perfect for frolicking on beaches, perusing down city streets, and hanging out in fashionable spots around the world. Tip: Oval faces are benefit and the pattern brings out the ultrafeminine side of every woman. Embellished Considered works of art, embellishments are a fast trend that everyone is adopting especially the accessories and apparel worlds. Tip: For those who dare to wear this risky trend these tend be more on the larger side so try on before purchasing.
20 squats 20 push-ups 1 minute plank 30 secs of rest Repeat circuit 4x
IG PHOTO OF THE MONTH It was one of the least visited places I have ever traveled to, but I consider myself a true traveler and really thrive off the intrigue of undiscovered places. I've been living in Brunei Darussalam which is on the large island of Borneo for 4 months and have been taking advantage of the opportunity by exploring everything I can in the area. I've traveled to Indonesia a few times before and realized there's so much more out there than just the popular destinations like Bali, Jakarta, and Yogyakarta. I was in the province of West Papua which is also known as Irian Jaya for close to a week trekking through different villages without a guide. There are about three different tribes who inhabit the villages around the highlands of The Baliem Valley. In this photo I was visiting the Dani Tribe. On the last day of my visit I hired a guide to take me to
a specific village where they perform traditional war dances. My guide was a local Papuan who spoke the language and broken English so he was able to translate. At the end of their dance he told me that they would allow me to take a picture with them. There is only one way to get here which involves a series of flights and a special travel permit called a Surat Jalan. There is always a sense of accomplishment and gratification I get when arriving to such a remote location that can’t be matched. From staying the night in the local straw huts which are called “Honais�, to shaking every locals hand I encountered along the path during the trek, to handing out candies to all the children of the villages, to the incredible views of the surrounding mountains of the highlands, this was one of the most memorable and picturesque trips I have ever had and am incredibly fortunate to have had this experience.
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© David Loftus.
FROM STAGE TO STOVE: A CULINARY JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD A weekend of cooking and reading and here's a review of my favorite recipes from Kelis Rogers' "My Life on A Plate."
© David Loftus.
Besides her career in music, Kelis is a Le Cordon Bleu trained chef with multiple television cooking specials, and a burgeoning entrepreneurial streak with her Bounty & Full organic sauce line.
I
t is no surprise in this entrepreneurial age we live in, that Rappers and Singers want to be Actors and Actors want to be singers (and sometimes Rappers). On occasion these endeavors are successful but rarely do you see any of the above leaving the glam and the glitz of celebrity to become an accomplished chef or cookbook author. Kelis Rogers is the exception.
The ex-wife of superstar rapper, Nasir Jones a.k.a Nas, Kelis is quite the accomplished musician herself. She plays several instruments and is probably best known for her hit,
“Milkshake.” Her recent labor of love, however is far removed from that lifestyle. “My Life On a Plate,” heralds her successful ascendency into the ranks of the culinary royalty. My Life On a Plate is a global culinary journey that tells the stories of a world traveler who enjoys good food. Her fondness of hole-in-the-wall eateries combined with her Le Cordon Bleu education is evident throughout the book and clearly serves as her inspiration. She adeptly captures the sights and sound of exotic locales and provides the reader with easy to follow instructions that allow you to taste her journeys via her refined palate.
Foodies who travel will certainly appreciate her cookbook and the recipes will transport you there. This is a recipe source that is sure to be used over and over again. Two recipes of note that are certain to be favorites of traveling foodies, due to their taste and ease of preparation, are Kelis’ Beef Sliders and Shrimp Alcapurias.
Fans of Kelis may be surprised to know that during a musical hiatus, she worked on a food truck (yes, a food truck)! In the book she share this story, as well as her delicious recipe for Beef Sliders. Sliders can be found on menus in practically any modern eatery, but what makes Kelis’ sliders a new standard for home cooks is not in the preparation of the beef. Kelis stays true to her roots and utilizes a traditional Caribbean method of preparation in need of little improvement. The recipe calls for the braising of shredded flank steak seasoned in spices endemic to the region. So what’s the game changer you ask? It is the sauce.
The second recipe noted is for Shrimp Alcapurias. As an introduction to the recipe, Kelis shares glimpses of her time in Puerto Rico and anyone who has been there is certain to be whisked away again to sand and sun to reminisce of this beach food favorite. Alcapurias or fritters are a handheld delicacy from Puerto Rico and while they are quite common throughout the Caribbean, this version is made with a batter of taro and/or green bananas. They are usually stuffed with meat or seafood and the latter, shrimp to be exact, and are what Kelis utilize in her recipe. Prepared to her specifics these fritters make a perfect snack or side. Leftover, they are a welcome addition to any lunchbox.
Kelis, a culinary entrepreneur in her own right, has a unique line of sauces and provides her recipe for a Root Beer Espresso BBQ sauce that can only be described as simply delectable. Kelis’ Beef Sliders are perfect for a quick hand-held meal in front of the television or can be easily used for either a hors d’oeuvre or snack platter.
My Life On A Plate is a cookbook that will make you want to see, feel, and taste the places Kelis has been for yourself and if you have been to any one of her destinations already, be prepared for a wonderful (and tasty) trip back.
© David Loftus.
Bon Voyage and Bon Appétit.
Born and raised in Harlem, New York, Kelis Rogers, better known by just her first name, first came to prominence singing the hook of Ol' Dirty Bastard's hit Got Your Money. Years of chart dominating songs and thrilling, boundary-pushing music followed resulting in millions of albums sold and numerous top 10 hits. She has released six albums, won Brit, Q, and NME Awards, and been nominated for two Grammy Awards. Her latest album Food, made with a live band and horn section, mints a sound that is rootsy, raw, and soulful without ever being retro. Upon release the album was praised as one of her most adventurous works yet.
© David Loftus.
Kelis has toured every corner of the world, performed at every major festival, and shared the stage with the world's top artists. A fashion icon and designer muse since the early days of her career, she is celebrated for a personal style which is often as creative and forward-thinking as the music she makes. Besides her career in music, Kelis is a Le Cordon Bleu trained chef with multiple television cooking specials, and a burgeoning entrepreneurial streak with her Bounty & Full organic sauce line. “My Life on a Plate” by Kelis copyright 2015 Kyle Books
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RE:UNION Music Fest is a global music festival aimed to assemble the music of the African Diaspora into one unforgettable, unique experience. Hip-hop, R&B, Reggae, Kompa, Cuban, Salsa, Afrobeat, South African House, and more will be brought together on ONE stage to celebrate our narrative.
EACH MONTH RE:UNION MUSIC FEST WILL INTRODUCE GLOBAL MUSIC ARTISTS TO THE GRIOTS REPUBLIC AUDIENCE.
Written by Jeremiah Myers Since I was a child, I’ve been taught that“Black people everywhere are one in my family would impart, “The only difference between Black Americans and others of the Diaspora is that they got off the boat one stop before us,” (referring to the route of the Atlantic Slave Trade). This message stayed with me throughout my youth, and now as an adult fully resonates with my spirit. This greater understanding is a result of two characteristics: I’m a Black Man and a World Traveler. As a Black Man I’ve learned that resilience and creativity are my best assets in the face of struggle. Moreover, as a World Traveler I’ve met countless people from the African Diaspora that share this same view. The Rastafarians I met at “Rebel Salute” in Jamaica, the South African tour guide (now friend) who discussed Apartheid with me in Johannesburg, and the women of color living as expats in Colombia all viewed the world and our place in it similarly.
That’s when I realized something very simple, yet powerful… We have a shared story. That’s the reason I decided to create RE:UNION Music Fest.
came to rise during the struggle of Apartheid in the black townships of Johannesburg, South Africa. All of these sounds are unique autobiographies telling the African Diaspora’s story of resilience and creativity. They are a living (and oftentimes lively) testament of our collective experience. Music has the power to bridge our worlds – and our people. It has the power to RE:UNITE. It is in this vein, RE:UNION Music Fest finds its inception. By blending various international music genres into one amazing experience, “The World’s Greatest Family Reunion” will reconnect the African Diaspora. We’re more than music, we’re FAMILY.
We have used music to tell our shared story for generations. Hip-hop was born out of the impoverished housing projects of underserved black youth in the Bronx, New York. Bachata’s origins are rooted in the daily realities of the rural AfroDominican population of the early 20th century. Kwaito
This powerful statement represents RE:UNION Music Fest. It signifies that while music will always be a vital element to the storied culture and strength of the African Diaspora, we must never forget that Family Hood will be what sustains us. I’m looking forward to meeting you, my family.
On Familiarity & Otherness An insight into Immigrants and Expats: Black Brits at “Home” and Abroad Written by Jendella Benson
To be Black and British is to have a strange relationship with immigration. Not too long ago we were stoically soldiering on in the face of cries of “go back to where you came from!”,” spat at us by red-faced yobs. But now, in light of recent waves of immigration lapping against the shores of this small, entitled island, our otherness is somewhat more familiar. Our former harassers have fresher targets for their thinlyveiled violent and racist rhetoric. These new immigrants absorb the frustrations of a beleaguered working class, whose communities have been undermined by successive governments, but have instead been sold a convenient scapegoat in the form of immigrants.
While faceless mobs scream about immigrants stealing jobs, living off the state, and taking up all the housing, government ministers quietly pass legislation to cut state benefits, sell off affordable housing to the private sector, and increase the amount of low-paid, insecure jobs to add a superficial boost to employment figures. If we’re honest, some of us Black Brits are just glad that the heat is no longer on us and our families. There are those who try to cement the limp embrace offered by White Britain by naively parroting nationalist sentiment to ward off the asylum seekers and migrants. It surprises me how easy it is for some to regurgitate
IDENTITY ˌīˈden(t)ədē/ noun the fact of being who or what a person or thing is.
“No, where are you from, really?"
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the weak justifications once offered in order to keep our own parents out of the country. However, there are also many of us making our own plans to leave out of choice. One of the advantages of being in Europe is the Schengen Agreement. Back in 1995, an agreement came into full effect that created an essentially borderless state within mainland Europe. People within the Schengen Area became free to travel between countries without border controls or passport checks. While unsurprisingly the United Kingdom has opted out, travelling between here and the rest of Europe is more or less painless anyway, and once you’re over there further travel is seamless. For many of us, once
we get over the fear of being racially abused in foreign languages, our globetrotting dreams begin with Europe. We refresh our high school level French, German, or Spanish, book our budget flights and set off. Most of our parents never travelled anywhere but “back home”, so for once we are not the children or grandchildren of immigrants trying to carve out an identity from a tangle of cultures, nor are we the awkward Westerners temporarily lodged in our ancestral land for a Christmas or summer. In these previously uncharted territories, we are tourists! Real tourists with cameras, and maps, and hotel bookings instead of mattresses on the floors of extended relatives. What an upgrade!
While the privilege that comes with a burgundy passport will take you anywhere, many of us still have our failsafe tucked away in a drawer somewhere else. The fact is that while you may be British, you are not white and you will never be allowed to forget that. “So where are you from?” “London.” “No, where are you from, really?" This exchange is so common that many of us run through it on autopilot. With our “real” heritage never far from anyone’s mind, it makes sense that as soon as we were old
enough, we gathered the necessary proof and got ourselves a passport in new colours for our respective “home” countries. We often joke amongst ourselves that when the inevitable happens and Britain bombs its way into World War 3, we will avoid the compulsory military draft by hot-footing it back to Nigeria, or Kenya, or Jamaica.
You’ll find us tweeting armchair commentary on dispatches from BBC World Service. “Rah, Big Ben got bombed? #MadTingSadTing :(” Once upon a time, being “shipped back” was a threat ominously wielded in the face of bad behaviour or poor grades, but such homecomings are now
voluntary. I have friends who have already beaten the crowds and have relocated back to the motherland, reacquainting themselves with their heritage and culture. I follow their blog posts and Instagram feeds out of curiosity and mild envy. Globalisation means that the motherland
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is not the same motherland from claustrophobic trips back as a child. There are marble-floored shopping centres, red carpet events, socialites snapping for social media at gallery openings, and cocktails at sunset. It's hard not to mentally convert currency and realise that for what you make here to scrape by you can go and live the high life “back home”. Forget that half of your kinfolk still live in abject poverty, “believe me, there's money to be made here!” a once-forgotten cousin tells you.
While the term “expat” was clearly coined by white people trying to avoid the stigma they spent years burdening the word “immigrant” with, young Black Brits have hijacked the term and ran with it, setting themselves up in the Middle East, Australia, Asia and everywhere else in between.
And even still, we have other options. Studies, work and play have some venturing even further afield, outside the circles of familiarity in Europe, Africa or the Caribbean, and to countries where wide-eyed children stroke brown arms in the street. Those whose previous experience
To b e black and abroad is to inhabit a very particular space, people will often assume you’re either a poor African or a rich American, so to be Black and British is something else entirely. While the innocent and not-so-innocent ignorance of strangers may initially be enough to make your mouse cursor hesitate while
of blackness has been limited to the distant but omnipresent force of hip hop, or Beyonce, are often astounded at an actual black person standing before them.
After all, our parents were the original “expats” – we learned from the best. booking your flights, the average Black Brit will take this all in stride. I mean, we are from Britain. If we can survive the passive-aggressive, gas-lighting of the British stiff upper lip at home, I believe that we can survive anywhere. We can’t pretend that the international arrogance that had Britain raping and pillaging its way across the world hasn’t rubbed off on us. Wherever we land, just give us a bit of time and we’ll have worked out where to buy our plantain and hair products from. We do this relocation and adaption thing very well, and why would we not? After all, our parents were the original “expats” – we learned from the best.
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TRAVEL NOTES
GALAPAGOS ISLANDS
The Galapagos Islands are an archipelago of volcanic islands straddling the equator in the Pacific Ocean. They were declared a province of Ecuador in 1973. About 25,000 people live on 18 primary islands and 3 smaller ones.
The natural beauty, serenity and mystery of Galapagos juxtaposed against the sometimes comical and occasionally frustrating obstacles we faced during our tour of two of the islands quickly became the major theme of our trip, a trip we all agreed was well worth the inconveniences. The members of my international crew included my Ukrainian-American mother, Christina, who had retired to a seaside village in Ecuador a few years ago. Her Ecuadorian friend, Maria, came up with the idea to make the trip to the islands (which sit roughly 600 miles off the Ecuadorian coast). It turns out Maria’s parents had actually lived on one of the islands, Floriana, some 70 years ago when her father worked for the government. Yet neither Maria nor my mother had ever been.
Maria’s husband, Washington, knew the Galapagos. He’d been stationed there while serving in the Ecuadorian military in the 1970s. Our trip would be his first time back. Maria and Washington’s adult children, Cristina and Santiago, were the fourth and fifth members of the entourage. Cristina attends university in Germany; Santiago works in Quito and had visited the Galapagos as a boy. I flew in from Washington D.C. and Cristina’s friend, Louis, traveled from the United Kingdom to make it a lucky seven. The plan was to spend ten August days island-hopping, with the goal of seeing as many of the famously unique species as we could. According to the Galapagos Conservancy, about 80 percent of the land birds, 97 percent of the reptiles and land mammals, and
more than 30 percent of the plants are endemic. One of our guides, Dario, said our timing was superb as the best months to visit are August through November. “Galapagos is very beautiful,” he told us. “It is one of the natural marbles of the world and a wonderful experience to live here and watch nature.” While the weather in August can be slightly rainy and the temperature a tad less tropical than one might expect (mid- to low-70s), according to Dario the migratory patterns of just about all the animals, birds, reptiles and fish bring them into view on the islands during this window. We began our journey in Puerto Ayora, the most populous town on Santa Cruz. There we began our love
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affair with Galapagos snorkeling. The biodiversity was astounding, though not always what I’d expected. I’ve done a lot of snorkeling in warm water, including the Red Sea, where colorful fish and plants live among stunning coral formations. In the frigid waters off Santa Cruz, the colors were muted and the sea floor crowded with starfish, sea cucumbers and various non-tropical fish species. In the deep water areas, sharks swam stealthily below us. Las Grietas, off Santa Cruz, translates to The Crevices. It was unforgettable. After a water taxi ride to Finch Bay and a 20-or-so-minute hike past a swanky hotel and idyllic lagoons, we swam between tall cliffs with rock walls that plunged deep into water so crystal-clear you could see right down to the bottom.
The plan was to spend ten August days islandhopping, with the goal of seeing as many of the famously unique species as we could. affair with Galapagos snorkeling. The biodiversity was astounding, though not always what I’d expected. I’ve done a lot of snorkeling in warm water, including the Red Sea, where colorful fish and plants live among stunning coral formations. In the frigid waters off Santa Cruz, the colors were muted and the sea floor crowded with starfish, sea cucumbers and various non-tropical fish species. In the deep water areas, sharks swam stealthily below us. Las Grietas, off Santa Cruz, translates to The Crevices. It was unforgettable. After a water taxi ride to Finch Bay and a 20-or-so-minute hike past a swanky hotel and idyllic lagoons, we swam between tall cliffs with rock walls that plunged deep into water so crystal-clear you could see right down to the bottom.
A few days later, on Isabela, we visited the shallower waters of the Tintoreras inlets situated just off the island. On the short Panga ride there, we saw penguins posted up on volcanic-rock islands and bright red crabs basking in the sun. Once in the water, we spotted decades-old sea turtles floating gracefully near the sea floor, and sea lions swimming close enough to grab. “I wasn’t expecting to see the animals so close,” Louis marveled. Louis (who was half-French) turned out to be our Jacques Cousteau Jr. His Go-Pro camera was always pointed at something and with Cristina’s help, he documented everything we saw above the water and below. Though we could get very close to the
wildlife, we respected the admonition not to touch any animals. Human scent can cause an animal to be alienated from its group. That being said, while snorkeling one day, Cristina was practically assaulted by a sea lion determined to play. “I wasn’t touching him…he was touching me!” she laughed, as we peeled off our wetsuits. While on Isabela, we stayed in Puerto Villamil. It is a sleepy town compared to Puerta Ayora. On the Sunday we arrived, all the shops were closed and it felt nearly uninhabited. We were lucky to find cold beer and a local woman under a walkway bridge to the beach frying up and selling the
most delicious homemade meat or cheese empanadas. She made them using cassava dough, which is gluten free, instead of the flour dough I am used to in the United States. We gorged on empanadas as we took in the spectacular Malecon Cuna del Sol, a long white-sand beach surrounded by palm trees and brackish water lagoons. As I strolled along the shore later, the black lava rock barrier between the sand and surf appeared to move. As I got closer I saw hundreds of land iguanas blending right in and sunning themselves. Day after day, we ticked off items on our Galapagos bucket list. We visited
Rancho Primicias, a private farm and tortoise sanctuary where the giant reptiles have free range. We strolled barefoot along the beach at Garrapaterro, where flamingos nest in the surrounding lagoons. We hiked nearly 45 minute to Tortuga Bay’s beaches to kayak and watch birds and iguanas. An 8 mile round-trip walk brought us to the Wall of Tears, a 20foot stone wall stretching more than 300 feet that was built by prisoners at a penal colony that once existed on Isabela Island. We walked nearly everywhere. It reminded Washington of his days as a solider on the Galapagos. Weighted down by a backpack full of gear and a gun, he recalled using his machete to hack his way through raw vegetation
to get from shore to shore on just about all of the islands. Today, long trails leading to many of the beaches are laid with paver stones. Other paths are made of packed earth with wooden bridges across lagoon marshes. Though traversing the land is much easier than when Maria’s parents lived there, or when Washington was in uniform, one of the takeaways was that a Galapagos vacation is an active one. My mother, who is nearly 70, is in pretty good health and full of energy. She observed that many of the activities may be too challenging for families with small children or people with a physical infirmity, even a slight one, due to some of the terrain like steep steps, long walks and the need to constantly climb in and out of small
boats. While tourism may be the one and only industry on the islands, the attitude toward actual tourists can be uneven. The owner of our hotel on Santa Cruz barely apologized for canceling one of our three reserved rooms, forcing me, my mother, Washington and Maria to be roommates for a night. “The main income for Galapagos is tourism,” Santiago explained, “but they are not focused on the service aspect of tourism. Many of the guides try to trick you in order for you to hire them for everything, and they charge you whatever they want.” Unanticipated costs were an
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ISLAM IN THE SLUMS
At approximately 9 pm in a favela, an urban slum south of Sao Paulo, I was walking with few of my hosts to buy meat from the butcher. I was filled with that sense of adventure one gets in a new environment. “Hey – this looks safe. Isn’t it funny, everyone scared
the world visiting lesser-known Muslim communities to answer my questions about faith,culture, and personal identity. Brazil was the first stop of 6 countries: Brazil, Senegal, Bosnia, China, Malaysia, and Japan. I had many plans for Brazil, but at the top of my list was visiting Kaab Abdul.
me of coming to the favelas?,” I asked confidently yet looking at my hosts for confirmation. “You are safe
Kaab’s story had recently taken the Brazilian media by
because you are Kaab’s guest. People know that. Just
storm. Major news outlets visited his musalla a prayer
stay close to us,” they said without breaking their
room, at least once a week. He was a former hip-hop
smile.
musician and rapper turned Muslim community leader. I had to meet him, despite the many logistical
Back in the summer of 2011, my wanderlust brought
challenges. He lives in a favela, generally not known to
me to Kyrgyzstan. While there, I witnessed a Muslim
be safe for visitors. It is at least an hour bus ride from
family asking God to bless their vodka shots. This
Sao Paulo. And most challenging, I don’t speak
paradox struck a very personal chord- how to define
Portuguese. Kaab does not speak English.
my own identity in light of conflicting expectations between my faith and the many cultures that define
Luckily, I connected with a Portuguese-speaking
me.
Muslim-American PhD student on a field study trip in Brazil. I asked him to accompany me for the trip.
So, in the summer of 2015, I decided to travel around
Getting to Embu das Artes, the favela that Kaab calls
ammar asfour
©Ammar Asfour
home, was a challenge. We arrived at the bus station where
he asked pointing at the Saudi flag. “Yes, I have been!” I
we were supposed to meet him after a lengthy bus ride.
said.
After waiting for approximately an hour at the bus station during which we visited a nearby grocery store to buy some
“I have been to hajj. Allhamdulillah,” he told me. We
delicious Brazilian persimmon fruit, Kaab finally met us with
prayed the second daily prayer of the day together, and
big hugs and genuine warmth that immediately eased any
then he walked us upstairs to his home.
worries we had. Kaab was humorous, animated, and energetic. He told us We just wanted to talk to Kaab, and we were ready to head
how his curiosity about Islam was triggered when he
back to Sao Paulo a couple of hours later. But Kaab had
heard the athan, the Muslim call to prayer. In 2008, he
other plans.
became Muslim after learning more about Islam through talking online to someone from Egypt. He continued to
He first took us to the musalla. He was wearing a black shirt
rap. He even tried to infuse Islam into his music.
with a Malcom X picture on it and a journalist vest that had
However, he found it conflicting to mix hip-hop and his
patches of Middle Eastern countries’ flags. The musalla was
newly found faith. He now only performs poetry with no
a single room at the ground floor of the building Kaab lives
instrumentals under the name Fragmentos de um
in. It was a humble place, yet it is taken care of meticulously.
Muçulmano (Fragments of a Muslim).
A red carpet covers the ground with many individual prayer rugs around the place. The front wall had a large electronic
We sat at the patio of his house overlooking the favela.
clock that keeps track of prayer times and the back wall had
Kaab was engaging and captivating. When he was not
a large flag of Saudi Arabia. “Have you been to Mecca?”
sharing deep thoughts about his faith and passion for the
©Ammar Asfour
ammar asfour
community, he was making us laugh. When it got dark, we went downstairs and we prayed maghrib, the first evening prayer, together. We went back upstairs after that and continued talking. Meanwhile, ©Ammar Assfour
many of Kaab’s friends began trickling in. Almost every 30 minutes, my friend and I looked at each other contemplating leaving, but we were so entrenched in the conversation that we didn’t want to leave. Positiv ity, hope, and faith in a better future were generally the emotions I felt from Kaab, except when he discussed the challenges he faced learning his faith. It was clear to me how difficult he found it. He points to the tattoos on his arms as an example. He didn’t know that tattoos are not permissible in Islam. For at least a year after he became Muslim, all the resources he had about Islam were three book s that
©Ammar Asfour
his Egyptian friend sent to him. “I don’t want others to
ammar asfour
face the same struggles,” he said with a sense of responsibility.
These friends made up a tight community of about 20 “Ammar, we will have churrascaria tonight. You have
Muslims- most new to Islam. Some live in the favela. Some
to stay the night.” Kaab told me.
were visiting him from over 3 hours away, because they felt more welcome in his community. At night, 5 or 6 of us were
“Oh. Brazilian bbq?” I asked.
to sleep downstairs in the musalla. Kaab stayed up with us joking, laughing, and stealing our pillows or blankets for
“Yes!” Kaab and his friends replied.
whatever reason. It was clear to me that Kaab was the anchor of this community. But, how could he do it?
“I love BBQ,” I said probably too enthusiastically. I was sold. We were staying the night at Kaab’s.
It was then that I understood why. It is because not once
Honestly though, I enjo yed being there and the food
did he assume the role of a religious teacher. In fact, he
was a mere excuse. The community was preparing to
made it a point to not lead the prayer every time we prayed
celebrate the wedding of a couple of their own the
together. He acted only as a humble community servant
next day. So many friends and family were gathered.
leader.
They tried to teach me Portuguese with very little luck. They practiced their American accents with
Earlier in the day, I was puzzled by Kaab’s emphasis on
extremely entertaining results. My lack of knowledge
helping his community at large. I had asked him if at any
of American hip-hop music heavily disappointed
point in his career he thought of leaving the favela. He
them. And most of all, the y made fun of my obsession
responded with an emphatic no. This is his home. “But how
with taking pictures. All while Kaab was taking charge
would Kaab heal this community?” I thought to myself. I
of the BBQ pit, producing mouthwatering grilled
knew he
beef.
©Ammar Asfour
cared. He genuinely wanted to help not only the Muslim community, but the larger community of the favela. But was that enough to make a strong community? So, I asked him about his vision. He told me it was to build a school for the youth in the community. I was surprised. “Why a school?” I asked. “Most Muslim community leaders would seek a mosque first!”
“Their way out of here is education not a worship place.”
He laughed and smiled. But his eyes were serious. He
I’ve traveled to over 40 countries, and I hope to travel
held my arm and walked me to the edge of the porch,
to more. I will never forget Kaab nor will I forget that
pointing out at the favela …
particular moment. It taught me that future gener ations will struggle with their identities unless
“Their way out of here is education not a worship
they are empowered through learning. That moment
place,” Kaab Abdul pointed at the sprawling houses in
and that thought shaped the remainder of my trip and
the urban slum. At that moment, a light bulb turned on.
my current curiosity.
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ammar asfour
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military
ŠCamaraClayton
ŠCamaraClayton
LIFE LIMB LENS
It usually occurs at the oddest hour of the day. You’ve spent the last eight hours of your life waiting to board a plane intended for a foreign country you cannot pronounce correctly. You are hungry, uncomfortable, tired, and anxious to start out on this journey. You have trained for months for this mission, left family members behind, missed a few birthdays, anniversaries, and other important events. Nevertheless, this is what you signed up for, an adventure like no other to see the world, interacting with people with diverse values and cultures. The adventure you are about to embark on, even though exciting, may cost you life or limb; but despite it all, you gather your courage because you are an American Soldier. For Soldiers across the world, traveling to distant lands becomes a modus vivendi.
We can visit countries or places closed off to the worldwide public. Since we frequently operate off of the beaten path, we see things that the average traveler does not. Our view of the world may be different from most; after all, we see humanity at its extremes, both good and bad. I joined the military over twenty years ago for patriotic reasons and to witness history. I picked up a camera with the goal of narrating Soldier's stories through the lens. It was, also, my way of safely bringing family and friends with me on these risky ventures. Despite the hostile environment, I tried to capture its beauty, the inwardness of the people and their culture. I
ŠCamaraClayton
Our view of the world may be different from most; after all, we see humanity at its extremes, both good and bad.
attempted to get the viewers to put themselves, not solely in my shoes but in the shoes of the subject. I’d hoped that they’d empathize and relate to a culture and a lifestyle that is different from theirs. Despite the social, economic, and religious differences, I hope my lens is the conduit in which people can discover that we are uniquely similar and allow the bond of humanity to bring us closer together. When the aforementioned occurs, it allows the Soldier a way of escaping the hardships of war and brings them to a place of familiarity.
14
The morning after my marriage was consummated I didn't feel like it was something to celebrate.
A shy smile sneaked from the side of the clay brick structure. A round and flawless deep brown face with mischievous eyes that squinted whenever she laughed at my broken attempts at Nyanja. She held hands with a little boy, barefoot and eager to run with the other little children in the distance. He tugged on her arm and she finally let him go. She told me his name was Jacob. “Is that your brother?” I asked. Her eyes squinted and she laughed again. “No, he is mine.” And then it was over. When she turned, I saw the baby- a lump
beneath red, orange and yellow printed chitenge material. It was asleep and all that peeked from the cloth was a tuft of kinky hair. The girl I took for an older sister, somebody’s daughter, dutifully caring for her siblings was in fact a wife and second time mother, at 16. This was my introduction to child marriage, 568 kilometers from Zambia’s capital city of Lusaka. I was at the end of a seemingly endless stretch of dry, brown road that took me to Luangeni village in Eastern Province’s Chipata District. It is rural, with clusters of mud brick, thatch-roof homes spread out between kilometers of miombo and acacia trees..
18
On the drive back, I passed more villages and the landscape gradually changed from rural to town back to the highway home. I thought about my childhood dreams of marriage, a Cinderella-esque fairy tale long since dissipated with age. Every young face and baby-laden frame I passed now made me wonder. How old are you? How did you get here? How has this changed your dreams?
This was my introduction to child marriage, 568 kilometers from Zambia’s capital city of Lusaka. I was at the end of a seemingly endless stretch of dry, brown road that took me to Luangeni village in Eastern Province’s Chipata District. Three months later, I met Musu and she told me everything. Musu Bakoto Sawo stood amidst a crowd of dignitaries and delegates from over 40 African nations telling her story at the first African Girls’ Summit held in Lusaka, Zambia in late November. She pleaded for the
GRIOTS REPUBLIC |
19
JANUARY 2016
end of the tradition and when she finished and took her seat, she tucked into her friend’s shoulder and cried. "Let us not call it child marriage because it's not marriage,” said African Union Goodwill Ambassador and secretary general of the Young Women’s Christian Association (YWCA) Nyaradzayi Gumbonzvanda from the stage. “It is abduction, rape and a criminal act." Musu was 10 when she developed a love for activism, joining the child-led advocacy group “Voice of the Young” in her native Gambia. At 14 years old, her family told her she was to be married to a man of 27. A patriarchal society, Gambian fathers and uncles make these decisions while most mothers remain quiet- bound by
tradition and often, internal conflict. Musu was in junior high and thought her world had come to an end. She didn’t eat for weeks. "The morning after my marriage was consummated I didn't feel like it was something to celebrate. I was hurting,” she said. “I felt like all my activism didn’t matter since I became a part of what I was advocating against." By the age of 22, she was a widowed mother and a student- a law graduate of the University of Gambia and then LLM graduate student at the University of Pretoria. Her husband died in her third year of renal failure. This tragedy and her mandated time of mourning made her degree completion seem impossible. “Never in a million years would I have
It is a double-edged sword of young advocates opposing the customs and the older community seeking a space for long-entrenched tradition. thought I’d come this far,” said Musu. “At 14, I was forced to grow up; I became someone’s wife, but education was always the main priority of my life.” The social activist and lawyer has now made it her life’s mission to show girls and women in Gambia that they too can succeed no matter their circumstances. Currently the program manager at Think Young Women, she speaks and works throughout the country advocating for women.
CONNECT Think Young Women
It is in her country, Gambia, that 36 percent of women are married by age 18 and 76 percent of women are cut, or victims of female genital mutilation. During the conference, the country made headlines after President Yahya Jammeh banned female genital mutilation (FGM) saying it is not required in Islam. The ban is not a law and many advocacy organizations hope the proclamation will lead to a domino effect amongst other countries on the continent. Besides governmental law, the law of the land makes fighting the issues a sensitive matter. It is a double-edged sword of young advocates opposing the customs and the older community seeking a space for long-entrenched tradition. When Musu returned from Zambia, her mother-in-law was not interested in discussing child marriage and specifically FGM.
They are reluctant to talk, seeing TYW and advocates like them as harbingers of change and immorality. To these women, child marriage is tradition and customs like FGM reduce female promiscuity. Despite the dispelling of the myth that FGM is a religious custom, these women still believe it is an obligation- the distinction between culture and religion long ago blurred.
“You have succeeded in bringing an end to a culture that we so value, something that we are religiously obligated to perform,” said her motherin-law. The negative effects of the customs are undeniable and visible from The Gambia to Zambia. Girls who marry before age At Think Young Women (TYW), Musu 18 are more likely to experience and her board advocate for ending unwanted pregnancies and less likely to child marriage and FGM in addition to complete primary and secondary school. working women leadership through Musu threatened suicide if her husband outreach and mentoring. It is when venturing into Gambia’s provinces that and his family, whom she moved in with they are met with the opinions of older after marriage, didn’t allow her to continue her studies. women.
The health consequences of early and forced marriage range from a high percentage of physical, mental, emotional and sexual abuse within the union to obstetric fistulas- a common condition in young mothers where a hole between the vagina and rectum or bladder caused by prolonged obstructed labor leaves a woman incontinent of urine or feces or both. The four types of female genital mutilation further complicate sex and delivery. Practiced in at least 28 countries in subSaharan Africa, the Middle East and parts of Asia. The circumcisers are often community women and relatives, who have themselves been cut in youth. Although FGM also occurs among
“Never in a million years would I have thought I’d come this far.”
Christians, animists and Jews, the prevalence amongst Muslim-majority countries had led to the false belief that it is tied to Islam. FGM actually predates Islam and the majority of Muslims do not practice the tradition.
EDITORIAL
“The Quran preaches peace, not bringing harm to another person,” said lawyer and author of “Delinking FGM from Islam” Sheik Ib rahim Lethome. “I cannot keep quiet when Islam is being misused.”
Every time she has a platform, Musu speaks. She speaks for the 14-year-old child bride she was and for the young girls listening who think their marriage equals the demise of their futures.
GRIOTSREPUBLIC.COM | January 2016
NOMAD NESS #WhatsNext in Urban Travel
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@nomadnesstribe nomadnesstv.com
PROFILES
01 ‘16
DOCUMENTING NATIVE IDENTITY
captures through her lens and every story that is shared with her has a sense of beauty but also urgency. Beauty in that there are people working to keep the culture thriving, and urgency in that there are many obstacles in preserving the culture and educating others about its true history. When Matika Wilbur set out on her journey across the country in an RV, her mission was to visit places not
As cultures are fighting to be heard, to matter, and for their history not be washed over with stories of
marked on the typical American sightseeing map, to
peaceful exchanges rather than the first steps of
chart the places filled with just as many artifacts,
erasure, acknowledgements like the recent push to
culture, and stories waiting to be heard. These are the
rename Christopher Columbus Day as Indigenous
stories of a people that make up the 562 Native
People’s Day is a step in a different direction.
American Tribes federally recognized throughout the
Wilbur’s art makes the Indigenous voice even more
United States. Over the course of three years, Wilbur
public.
tasked herself with capturing images of Native people living in Western Society and exhibiting them in the aptly named, Project 562. Throughout her travels the old adage, “There are two sides to every story” rings true. Every picture she
When it comes to the mission of her photography, Wilbur “always believed that it would be necessary for our voices to be heard in massive media.” Her work has garnered attention but she insists on the spotlight being on the work and the issues effecting Native communities such as student
Juanita Toledo (Pueblo of Jemez), 2015 dropouts and the disproportionally higher rates in which Native women are sexually assaulted. “I’m just this girl from the Res exposing truths from the Res,” she said. “I think that it [the exhibition] has gotten a lot of exposure because the people need that.” In an upcoming exhibit, debuting at Harvard on April 28, 2016, Wilbur will honor Native women and “give life to some of the beautiful, powerful, and profound women in the community working hard to maintain our connection to the mother earth.” There will also be a small book that will be published to coincide with the exhibit to honor Native women. Other projects include documenting the work of
the Sierra Seeds Company; a Native company cultivating Native seed “Our identity is primarily in the land and when we respect the mother we also honor and respect our women,” she said. “What I found all over the country are stories of people raping and pillaging the mothers. Lack of access to clean water, and all of the ways that we are exploiting the mother earth, I think is directly connected to the way we exploit our native women.” Through her art, Wilbur also aims to expand the education of Native and non- Native people. It’s crucial to not only to reverse negative images, but alleviate the pressure of most Native people who find themselves being the only representative of their culture in
most educational settings. “A lot of native people don’t go to school prepared to be an ambassador or educator to those who are supposed to be educating them,” she said. Though her mission is selfless, she did note the physical effects the project has taken on her. “It’s really hard what I’m doing; the toll that it has taken on my body to live on people’s couches and in an RV for three years,” she said. “I developed allergies, I’ve aged, I don’t get to work out as much as I would like to, but I see it as there isn’t any other option. We need it. People’s minds have to change about Native America in order to affect public policy, and that’s something I can do.”
“What I found all over the country are stories of people raping and pillaging the mothers. Lack of access to clean water, and all of the ways that we are exploiting the mother earth, I think is directly connected to the way we exploit our native women.” Matika Wilbur
Darkfeather, Bibiana and Eckos Ancheta (Tulalip), 2014.
Dr. Mary Evelyn Belgarde (Pueblo of Isleta and Ohkay Owingeh), 2014. Wilbur also points out that paying for her trip was no small task. She turned to crowdfunding to make it possible. Her project was not only fully funded, she exceeded her goal, yet it was still a humbling experience, according to Wilbur. “You’re asking people to believe in your dreams,” she said. Crowd funding allowed her to continue working to capture and highlight the identities of Nat ive people. In regards to her own identity, Wilbur describes it as “complex.” She represents her mother’s tribe Swinomish and her father’s tribe Tulalip but is enrolled as a Tulalip due to a federal policy that allows only one tribal enrollment. Despite the hardships associated with her project, she insists that the people she has encountered on her journey have strengthened her resolve, in the fact, that th ere are many more steps to be taken in order to educate others
PHOTOGRAPHER REVIEW
about Indigenous peoples. She contends that Indigenous people must also be able to accurately identify with their own culture in safe spaces, on and off the designated areas sanctioned by the United States. A long term goal for Wilbur includes more traveling to discover tribes around the world and also bringing her art directly to the public. With funding, she is looking forward to the creation of a traveling long house exhibition, a “nomadic exhibition that would look like it belongs in a space of sacredness.” She wants the exhibition to feel authentic, complete with a “dirt floor and fire, and stories that are going to stay with us in a setting that feels really safe to Indigenous people." She dreams of an exhibition space, "where we can invite kids to see
She wants the exhibition to feel authentic, complete with a “dirt floor and fire, and stories that are going to stay with us in a setting that feels really safe to Indigenous people." it and they are not going to feel like they are being pushed by white-walled institutions with track lighting.” To find out more about Matika's art or to help her create her exhibition by donating to her project, please visit MatikaWilbur.com or Project562.com. You can also follow her journey on Instagram @MatikaWilbur.
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