Groomer to Groomer January 2022 by Barkleigh Productions

“THE GROOMING INDUSTRY’S TRADE MAGAZINE!” WWW. GROOMERTOGROOMER .COM

PHOTO BY JONATHAN DAVID

VOL. 41 ED.1 • JANUARY 2022

ACHIEVING THE PERFECT

BEDLINGTON TERRIER HEAD WITH OLGA ZABELINSKAYA

HAVANESE PET TRIM

WITH JONATHAN DAVID

CONTENTS | TUTORIAL ISSUE 2022 ACHIEVING THE PERFECT

From Doodle Drab to Doodle Fab

The Quick of the Matter

Getting Claws Shorter, Faster!

by Olga Zabelinskaya

A Brief History and Grooming Guide for the

Havanese Pet Trim

Miniature Poodle Kennel Clip

Senior Yorkie Color Correction and Trim

Perfect Poodle Topknot

Show Schedule/ Industry Events

Classifieds 64

Romagnolo 44

by Jennifer Bishop-Jenkins

ART DIRECTOR Laura Pennington laura@barkleigh.com

WWW. GROOMERTOGROOMER .COM

DIRECTOR OF MARKETING & CLIENT RELATIONS James Severs james@barkleigh.com

CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER SR. GRAPHIC DESIGNER Brandi Aurelio Adam Lohr adam@barkleigh.com brandi@barkleigh.com

MARKETING CONSULTANT Alex Hammersla alex@barkleigh.com

ASSISTANT EDITOR Gwen Shelly gwen@barkleigh.com

JR. GRAPHIC DESIGNER Josiah Malinich josiah@barkleigh.com

SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Cassidy Ryman cassidy@barkleigh.com

MANAGING EDITOR Rebecca Shipman rebecca@barkleigh.com

WEB MASTER Luke Dumberth luke@barkleigh.com

ACCOUNT MANAGER/ EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Karin Grottola karin@barkleigh.com

Kathy Hosler

Khris Berry

Deborah Hansen

Jennifer Bishop-Jenkins

Daryl Conner

Jonathan David

Dr. Cliff Faver

Blake Hernandez

PHOTO BY JONATHAN DAVID

EDITOR/PRESIDENT Todd Shelly todd@barkleigh.com

“THE GROOMING INDUSTRY’S TRADE MAGAZINE!” VOL. 41 ED.1 • JANUARY 2022

ACHIEVING THE PERFECT

BEDLINGTON TERRIER HEAD WITH OLGA ZABELINSKAYA

HAVANESE PET TRIM

WITH JONATHAN DAVID

ON THE COVER HAVANESE PET TRIM WITH JONATHON DAVID TUTORIAL ON PAGE 32

Copyright January 2022. Groomer to Groomer is published monthly by Barkleigh Productions, Inc, 970 West Trindle Road, Mechanicsburg PA 17055. Postmaster: Send change of address to Groomer to Groomer c/o Barkleigh Productions, Inc., 970 West Trindle Road, Mechanicsburg PA 17055. Annual U.S. subscription rate $25. Outside U.S. $79. year, surface rates. Groomer to Groomer is free to current Barkleigh Productions, Inc. customers. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission of the publisher. Editorial offices: 970 West Trindle Road, Mechanicsburg PA 17055. (717) 691–3388 FAX: (717) 691–3381 Email: info@barkleigh.com

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

ACHIEVING THE PERFECT

he Bedlington Terrier head should be narrow and rounded with a topknot crown. There must be no stop and an unbroken line from crown to nose without the “hourglass” shape. The eyes should be almond-shaped and small, and the ears triangular with rounded tips. The ear tips should reach the corners of the mouth and be thin and velvety in texture, covered with fine hair forming a small silky tassel at the tip. Bedlington hair is soft and silky, sometimes a little bit “cottony”, and is the one of the most difficult breeds to groom.

Tools needed for the groom include: • Slicker brush • Fine comb • Clippers with #30, #10F and #15 blades • Straight, long scissors • Curved scissors • Blenders • Thinning shears Before starting the groom, be sure to brush and comb the hair thoroughly.

FIG. 1

FIG 1 To begin, shave the lower

By Olga Zabelinskaya

Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

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jaw and throat area with #10 blade in reverse and shave the lips with #30 blade. Also shave the sides of the cheeks from the upper corner of the ear to the corner of the mouth with #10 or #15 blade.

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG 2 & 3 Then shave two-thirds of the ear leather with #30 or #10F blade in reverse. Shave the inner ear leather following the same pattern. And trim the tassels into a diamond shape.

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FIG 4 Use straight, long scissors to shape the sides of the head, forming parallel lines. Cut as close to the cheek bones as possible (red lines in Fig 4). Use curved scissors to shape the arched crown (yellow lines in Fig 4). Remember that a Bedlington head is long and narrow and the eyes should not be visible from the front view. From the side view, the eyes are triangular. To finish, blend the shaving

FIG. 4

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lines with fine thinning shears and smooth all scissoring lines with blenders to create a “plush” appearance.  Olga is a Certified Master Groomer and owns two grooming salons, Elite Pet Spa & Boutique in Madison, NJ and Grooming Gallery in Morris Plains, NJ. She has multiple BIS and Best All-Around Groomer wins as well as two prestigious Winners Circle Champion titles. Olga is 2009 and 2010 American Groomer of the Year by Cardinal Pet, and was awarded the Lynne Carver Memorial Award as Best All Around Stylist 2009. Olga was born in Russia where she had a Master Degree in Engineering and finished law school. Olga was a GroomTeam USA member 2008-2012 and won the Silver medal in Belgium, 2011 as a part of the traveling team. Olga cohosts many pet fundraising events.

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AFTER

From DOODLE TO DOODLE

Drab

Fab

BEFORE

By Amanda Aaron and Brittney Valle

FIG. 1

his tutorial will focus on subtle changes you can make to an everyday pet trim to help accentuate the dog’s natural body and musculature, and really make your grooms stand out! The dog used for this article is a poodle mix who has very soft, wavy hair and the owners like a low-maintenance style, but still want her to look her very best! Fig 1) To begin this groom, use a #4 blade on the dog’s body, beginning at the shoulders and continuing back the topline to the tail.

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Fig 2) Next, find the center of the dog and take the blade down in a semi-circle motion to set in a tuck-up. This area should be the highest part of the dog’s underline and help to split the dog into two equal halves from front to back.

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

FIG. 4

Fig 3) Once the tuck-up line is set in, reverse the clippers up the center of the belly to achieve a small undercarriage. Stop just between the front legs.

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Fig 4) On the rear legs, clip off the entire top muscle on the back leg, skimming off at the knee and natural bend of the dog’s leg. Leave the entire front of the back leg alone for now.

FIG. 5 Fig 5) Next, take the same blade you used on the body and begin just under the ear to clip off the neck. Continue down until you reach the elbow and skim off at the elbow to blend the shorter shoulder coat into the longer leg coat.

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FIG. 7

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Fig 7) Moving to the throat, reverse your blade and clip from the throat up into the hollow of the dog’s underjaw.

FIG. 8

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Fig 8) For this particular dog, a #1 snap-on comb was used on the legs to add style and flair to the trim. Begin at the front of the front leg and trim all the way down to the foot, as well as the inside and outside of the front leg. Do NOT trim the back of the front leg.

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FIG. 10

FIG. 9

Fig 10) Begin your scissor work by trimming the feet. On the back foot, comb all hair down, pick the leg up and trim all of the hair off of the top of the back stopper pad.

Fig 9) Moving to the rear leg, clip the outside thigh on the inside and outside of the leg, but not the front.

FIG. 11

Fig 11) Finish trimming the foot by placing it back on the table and trimming around the edge of the foot. Repeat on the other side.

Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

FIG. 12

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Fig 12) Similarly, move to the front foot and scissor a rounded shape with the foot on the table. For the front feet, do not pick the foot up and trim the hair off the top of the stopper pad because if you cut that area too short, you lose the nice column leg appearance. Repeat on the other front foot.

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FIG. 13

Fig 13) For the body scissor work, comb all of the hair up and out from the skin and put a nice scissor finish on it.

FIG. 14

FIG. 15

Fig 14) To blend the shorter coat of the upper thigh with the longer coat of the knee and below, make sure all hair is standing straight out by combing and tip your scissors slightly toward the shorter coat and scissor straight down toward the table. Continue this on the inside of the leg as well.

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Fig 15) Next, lightly scissor the tuck-up area to blend into the underline and the longer hair on the front of the back leg. You can also blend the longer hairs here by gently scissoring in a windshield wiper motion from front to back.

FIG. 16

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FIG. 17

FIG. 19

FIG. 18

Fig 19) On this dog, a blending shear was used in the end to fine-detail and finish the scissor work due to its incredibly soft coat texture.

FIG. 20

Fig 17) Scissor the front legs into columns by combing the hair out and scissoring from the front of the toes to the elbow. Then comb all the hair to one side and scissor a nice straight line from toes to elbow. Do NOT trim the back of the front leg in this manner.

Fig 18) Moving to the chest, blend the shorter hair into the longer hair on the front leg by scissoring straight into the front leg and blending this area.

Fig 20) Begin trimming the face by cleaning up the longer hairs right in front of the eyes. For this coat texture, a blending shear was used, but you can also do this with a thinning shear or a #10 blade.

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FIG. 21

Fig 21) Next, comb all of the hair on top of the head forward and scissor a straight visor from the outside of one eye to the outside of the other.

FIG. 23

FIG. 22

FIG. 24

Fig 23) Then trim the bottom of the jaw in a straight line to set the desired length.

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Fig 22) To help make the eyes appear larger and enhance the shape of the face, take your shears and open up the outside corner of the eyes by trimming the outside edge and exposing the eye from the side view.

Fig 24) Comb the cheek hair down and trim from the bottom of the jaw where you set the length up and around the side of the cheek hair until you reach the opening of the ear. Repeat on the other side.

FIG. 25

Fig 25) Follow that up with a blending shear to soften the harsh scissor lines. When viewed from the front, everything should be a straight line from the top of the head to the jaw, and from the side view, the face should have a nice rounded jaw.

FIG. 26

Fig 26) Comb all of the hair on the muzzle forward and use a blending shear to take off any that sticks in front of the nose.

FIG. FIG. 27 25

Fig 27) Finish the muzzle by using a small curved shear to clean up the edges of the muzzle all the way around.

FIG. 28

Fig 28) Next, blend the head into the neck by combing all of the hair on the top of the head back and use a blending shear to trim up and around behind the ears and across the back of the skull.

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

FIG. 29

Fig 29) Trim the ears to the desired length. A blending shear was used on this dog to help achieve a more natural look.

Many of our clients want a low-maintenance haircut for their dogs, but there are still plenty of ways to complement each dog’s body structure to give them the best haircut that individual dog can possibly wear. Leaving a little extra hair in all the right places while taking off extra hair where it isn’t needed can really transform any dog from drab to fab! 

Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

FIG. 30

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Fig 30) Finish out the groom by holding the tip of the tail straight out from the dog and scissoring flat from tip to base, gradually getting longer as you get closer to the dog.

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The Quick of

the Matter BEFORE

AFTER

Getting Claws Shorter, Faster! By Daryl Conner Photos by Damian McDonald

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hen I ask my grooming customers, "What would you like done today?" at checkin, almost every single person replies, "Trim the nails!" They don't give me much feedback on the coat style, but those nails are of utmost importance in most pet owners' lives. If you've been grooming dogs for more than a minute, you know that sometimes dogs' claws get overgrown. In many cases, the tender "quick" (the soft tissue inside the claw that houses nerve cells and a blood supply) is so long that it's difficult to trim the nails back enough so they don't touch the ground. When a dog's claws are that long, they pose a variety of problems: They are prone to getting damaged or broken during regular activity, and they cause the dog to walk abnormally, putting painful stress on their toes and joints. In addition, over time, overgrown nails can realign the dog's joints and cause the shape of its foot

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to change. It can be a serious challenge to get the quick to recede far enough that safely, painlessly trimming the nails back to a healthy level can be accomplished. Fellow groomer Damian McDonald ("Who Groomed That Dog," Alberta, Canada) explained to me her technique for humanely and successfully shortening claws quickly and safely. I first read about her method on a Facebook grooming page and, intrigued, I tried it myself. It needed to be shared, and she kindly agreed to tell our readers how she successfully solved the problem of overgrown dog claws.

WOULD YOU PLEASE EXPLAIN HOW YOU CAME UPON THIS IDEA? "I came upon this idea after I learned about a method of nail trimming called the ‘Alternative Cut

Line,’ or ACL. The idea of the ACL is to angle your cut so that the cut edge is more on the top of the nail at the point where it begins to curve down, rather than making your cut after this curve, so your cut edge is facing the ground. This cut line allows you to get closer to the quick without cutting into it and causing pain and bleeding, and it exposes more of the soft inner nail that groomers are trained to identify when clipping nails. The soft inner nail surrounds the quick, but unlike the quick, it does not hurt the dog when clipped. There is a certain thickness of this soft inner nail between the quick and the hard protective outer nail. When you expose this inner nail, over the coming days, the inner nail will harden. The quick will recede to maintain this thickness between the quick, the soft inner nail

and hard outer nail. To me, it just seemed logical that exposing more of this inner nail would go much further in getting the quicks to recede in overgrown nails in a shorter time. So, I decided to begin experimenting with this method— similar to the ACL—but instead of just exposing the soft inner nail on the top of the nail, I wanted to see what the results would be if I used the Dremel to do it on all sides."

WHEN DID YOU FIRST TRY THIS? "I have been Dremeling nails for years, but this specific method I've only been doing for the last year or so."

WOULD YOU MIND DESCRIBING THE METHOD YOU USE TO SHORTEN CLAWS SAFELY? "On overgrown nails, I first use nail

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FIG. 1

FIG. 2

clippers to take off the majority of the nail (Fig 1). When I can see that I have trimmed back to the soft inner nail surrounding the quick, I stop cutting and switch to the Dremel (Fig 2). Envisioning the position of the quick inside the nail, I use the Dremel to file away the hard outer

nail, going all the way around the tip of the nail (Fig 3). You can think of it sort of like sharpening a pencil. I use my judgment to determine how far back to go from the tip of the nail; on longer and thicker nails, I will go back further (Fig 4). It's a bit of a learning curve. It

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would help if you kept in mind that once you've Dremeled off the outer nail, the exposed part will be more delicate for a couple of days while it hardens. I make sure not to go too far back that a broken nail becomes a risk (this has never happened with one of my clients, but I believe it could be possible). Occasionally I have focused on getting as close to the quick as possible in extremely overgrown nails. In that case, I will ask the owner not to take the dog running or allow extreme exercise until the claws have had a couple of days to harden."

WHAT TOOLS DO YOU USE? "I use a Dremel brand tool, the Dremel 3000, to be specific. It's a 10-speed Dremel, but I never go above speed five or six—you don't need that much power. I appreciate the small increases of power it provides though, especially when doing this method of nail grinding. Lower speeds give you more control when taking off small amounts of the nail with less risk of grinding into the quick. I use a metal

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FIG.3

tip on my Dremel. I chose smaller tips than the standard sandpaper bands, and I find that I like them better. I believe it's the best-suited tip for this method. The metal tips are much more forgiving when making contact with skin, and can be lightly skimmed against the dog's paw pad when grinding the underside of a nail without irritating the paw."

WOULD YOU PLEASE DESCRIBE THE RESULTS YOU HAVE SEEN? AND HAVE YOU USED THIS METHOD ON MANY DOGS? "I have used this method on too many dogs to count at this point because I do it, to an extent, on every dog that gets nail grinding done. However, in the year or so that I have been using this method, I have had several dogs come to me specifically for quick-recession services. These clients are instructed to bring the dog back between 10-14 days for a second session, and if needed, for a third session in that same time frame. These are the dogs that I have noticed a difference in.

FIG. 4

When I was trained, and in the years that followed, the method of getting quicks to recede was to clip or Dremel almost to the tip of the quick and then have the dog come back every week or two and repeat this as many times as needed. It would take several sessions to get quicks back to a semi-desirable length. With this method, I've been thrilled to see excellent results in usually just two sessions."

CAN YOU GIVE SOME TIPS ON HOW TO DO THIS FOR PEOPLE WHO MAY NOT KNOW HOW TO BUFF NAILS WITH A DREMELTYPE TOOL?

of practice, this method will become second nature to you!"

IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE YOU WOULD LIKE GROOMERS TO KNOW BEFORE TRYING THIS? "This method can be more difficult on a wiggly dog. This is where the Dremel 3000 can come in handy with its lower speeds. Remember, it's not a race; do what the dog will tolerate, and take your time. If your dog will not tolerate the nail grinder, I would suggest reverting to the ACL method while you work on conditioning the dog to a nail grinder."

"If you are new at buffing nails, I would first encourage you to familiarize yourself with the structure of the nail. Then, get to the point where you can identify the difference between the outer nail, soft inner nail and quick while trimming or grinding. Grinding into the quick while you are exposing larger portions near to it could be an unpleasant experience for all involved. But with a little bit

Because you can teach an old dog (groomer) new tricks, I am grateful to Damian for sharing her method of altering the overgrowth of pet dog claws. This practice is changing the way I work and making dogs more comfortable because of it. 

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Scan QR code for Grooming video Tutorial 31

Havanese PET TRIM

BEFORE

By Jonathan David

AFTER

he Havanese is a popular family dog, but the long hair of the breed can be a challenge for the average pet owner to maintain. This pet trim will be sure to please even the most discerning pet parents. Before you start the haircut, use a #15 blade to gently clip the sanitary and rectum, and a #30 blade to gently clip the pads.

FIG. 1

Fig 1) To begin, use a straight or curved shear to trim a neat line around the feet being careful not to expose the toenails.

Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

FIG. 2

Fig 2) Brush the hair on the neck up towards the head and use a #1 or #0 snap-on comb to clip down the front, back and sides of the neck, skimming off at the shoulders.

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FIG. 3

Fig 3) Then brush the body hair towards the neck and continue clipping down the back and around the ribcage.

FIG. 4

Fig 4) Moving to the legs, brush the hair on the rear legs up and clip down the outside of the rear legs

FIG. 5

FIG. 6

Fig 5) Using your clipper, create a contour down the back of the rear legs, stopping just above the hocks.

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Fig 6) Then use your thinning shears and comb to even out the body and blend any visible clipper lines.

Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

FIG. 7

Fig 7) Next, use your thinning shears to trim a curved line from the tuck-up to the foot following the bend of the knee.

FIG. 8

Fig 8) To layer the outside of the rear leg, use your thinning shears and comb.

FIG. 9

Fig 9) Then use your thinning shears to smooth the contour you clipped out on the back of the rear leg.

FIG. 10

Fig 10) Finally, use your thinning shears and comb to blend the front and sides of the shoulders into the front legs.

Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

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FIG. 11

Fig 11) To shape the legs, part the hair on the top of the front leg and use your thinning shears to cut a straight line up the outside edge of the leg.

FIG. 12

Fig 12) Next, use your thinning shears to cut a straight line up the inside of the front leg.

FIG. 13

Fig 13) Then, comb all the leg hair down towards the back of the leg and use your thinning shears to cut a straight line up the back of the front leg to the elbow.

FIG. 14

ARCHITECTURAL DOG WASH TUBS Fig 14) Moving to the head, use your thinning shears to trim the hair in front of and between the eyes.

FIG. 15

Fig 15) Gather all the hair on the top of the head between your fingers and use your thinning shears to trim the hair from above the eyes back towards the occiput.

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FIG. 16

FIG. 18

Fig 16) Next, comb the hair on top of the head forward over the eyes and trim a visor using your thinning shears.

Fig 18) Then comb the muzzle and cheek hair down and trim evenly across the chin and jawline and taper the hair up towards the nose.

FIG. 17

Fig 17) Holding the ears over the head, use your thinning shears to blend the hair under the ears into the cheeks and around the neck.

FIG. 19

Fig 19) To finish, comb the ears down and trim evenly with thinning shears for a softer look. 

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Miniature

poodle

Kennel Clip By Julie Wilkins

The Poodle Kennel Clip is a trim that can be easily executed by even the more novice of groomers. It is also easily maintained by the owner at home between grooms.

T 38

FIG. 1

FIG. 2

o achieve this clip, start with a well-prepped dog that has been properly bathed and fluff-dried. The first step is to do your clipper work on the face, feet and tail. I prefer a five-in-one clipper with the blade on the second to the closest setting as not to clipper-burn or irritate the skin on the dog.

Fig 1) Clip the face starting from the front corner of the ear, going across to the corner of the eye and out through the tip of the nose, making a clean line from the bottom corner of the ear on both sides down to the neck, finishing with a “V” shape.

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Fig 2) Clip the tail starting from the base up, finishing with a “V” shape on the back to accentuate the tail set. The feet should be clipped just up over the top knuckle.

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FIG. 4

FIG. 3

Fig 3) Next, moving onto the body, use a #1 clipper-comb over a #30 blade starting just behind the shoulders and work your way back, following the natural contours of the dog’s body, and clipping down the rear angulation and side of the hips. Fig 4) Also clip just under the ear and clean up the neck and shoulder area down to just above the elbow.

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Fig 5) To clip the legs, switch to a #0 comb.

FIG. 5

FIG. 6

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Fig 6) Now that the length is set on the dog, you can start the finish work with doing the bevels on all four feet by combing the hair down around the foot and scissoring the hair off with a small curved or straight sheer. Then comb the hair back up on the legs and even it out with your shears.

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FIG. 8

At this point you can do your tail and neck line bevels as well.

FIG. 9

FIG. 7

Fig 7) Next scissor the tail round or slightly oval-shaped with a small pair of curved shears.

Fig 8) The ears are beveled with a pair of curved shears as well. Always check to make sure you are not near the ear leather.

Fig 9) On the head, use your curved shears to trim the visor around the eyes.

FIG. 10

Fig 10) Then, flip the curved shears around the opposite way to do your bevels up over the ears.

FIG. 11

Fig 11) Next, bring the shears up over the top of the head to create a nice rounded shape.

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FIG. 12

Fig 12) Once again, flip the shears in reverse to blend the neck line down into the dog’s shoulders.

AFTER

Philip Schafmayer NCMG - Champion Groomer, Judge and Pet Salon Owner

Happy grooming everyone!  Julie Wilkins has been grooming since 1994 and owns Best In Show Pet Salon in Gloucester, MA. She has won multiple Best In Show and Best All Around awards at grooming competitions, and was a Top 10 member of GroomTeam USA for many years. As an AKC Breeder of Meritt, Julie has finished many of her own Poodles from the bred-by class, as well as many Toy, Mini, and Standard Poodle Champions with multiple group wins and placements and Specialty Best In Show wins. She is a member and has held board positions in The Poodle Club of Massachusetts and North Shore Kennel Club, always striving to better the breed and educate the public on the purebred dog.

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

Photo By Lagotto Lady

A Brief History and Grooming Guide for the

Romagnolo By Jennifer Bishop-Jenkins

he historic Lagotto Romagnolo has a rustic, curly coat that is distinctive and definitive. Thought to be one of the oldest of all the water dogs, they get their name from the Romagna region of Northeast Italy. Lagotto translates from the local dialect as “Duck Dog” and Lago means “Lake” in Italian. Their hunting drive was suppressed over the centuries in favor of their extraordinary noses in pursuit of prized cuisine delicacy, a tuber fungus called a truffle. The Lagotto Romagnolo’s unique talent in finding and unearthing these precious treats has kept them a cherished breed of dog for approximately a thousand years. Most of the dog breeds around today are less than 150 years old, with only a handful of breeds able to be traced back more than 300 years ago. But the Lagotto predates most modern dog breeds

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and appears in many historic records far older than most purebred dogs of today. A medieval Italian painting dated 1456 AD by Mantegna clearly depicts a Lagotto Romagnolo amongst a group of people. And, a painting from the 1600’s by Giovanni Francesco Barbieri shows a Lagotto that still very much resembles the breed standard of today. The Lagotto Romagnolo Club of America’s website, www.lagottous.com/ grooming, underscores the importance of preserving the rustic and wooly curls, and recommends the coat be kept at between one to one and a half inches long for the curls to form properly. That is the length that the curls form the best, and the length that most of them are shown in the ring. The thick, rustic nature of these ringlets actually prevent matting if kept intact. The only other AKC recognized breed that has a rustic, curly coat is the Spanish Water Dog. Many of the Spanish Water Dogs are now being shown corded, which is another grooming option for the rustic curly coat type. Unlike most of the dogs we groom, in the case of the Lagotto Romagnolo or the Spanish Water Dog, instruct your clients NOT to brush and comb them in between monthly grooms. Breaking up the ringlets allows for more rapid matting. There is a thick or harsh wooly undercoat that can mat if broken away from the protection of the rustic curls. Several of my Lagotto clients are on a three-week schedule to prevent matting, but the owners appreciate that they are virtually maintenance-free between professional grooms. Though the breed is now growing in popularity, until recently, it has been a relatively rare dog to see in a grooming shop. Lagotto websites warn owners away from grooming shops who tend to treat the coat no differently than a Poodle or Bichon. It is better to hand-scissor down the

FIG. 1 length of the intact curls in between full grooms rather than to brush it out or clipper through the ringlets. If they are neglected and the mats form a pelt, breed experts recommend to shave them down, allowing the rustic, curly ringlets to re-form as they grow back. None of the Lagotti I groom are currently being shown, so I use a clipper with an attachment comb before the bath. Many pet owners may not prefer their Lagotti coat as long as the recommended length, so most are clippered with a ¾- to ⅞-inch attachment on the torso area prior to the bath. If the rustic curls are properly preserved and they are groomed monthly, they require little home maintenance. If they are matted, wait to de-mat or brush them out until they are wet in the tub and soaking in conditioner to prevent breakage of the coat. If the groomer cannot pass an attachment comb through the coat prior to the bath, it is best to brush and use the high velocity dryer to help de-mat them while soaking in conditioner to avoid excessive breakage. The hair on the Lagotto face is often more straight and wavy than the hair on their bodies. I have found that the heads are usually the only place that is often a little matted when they come in for the next grooming, most likely because the cheeks and beard area do not form the same kind of ringlets that prevent the matting. The one critical element in grooming the Lagotto is to let the dog air-dry to allow the curls to form and harden, thereby protecting the coat from matting and tangling. Begin by taking the Lagotto to the grooming table for a brush- and combout, and then a haircut. Complete the entire cut before or during the bath.

Fig 1) First, remove excess hair from the pads of the feet and sanitary areas. On all male dogs with hair-type coats, I leave a “wick” of hair at the tip of the penis area to help direct the urine flow downward.

FIG. 2 Fig 2) Then, brush and comb them out using a heavy “poodle-type” comb with wide teeth, pulling out dead wooly undercoat.

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FIG. 3

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Fig 3) Where the hair on the head is the longest, line brush using a slicker.

FIG. 4

Fig 4) Set the pattern using an attachment comb, trying to leave an inch if possible. The Lagotto pictured here was clippered with a ¾-inch attachment.

FIG. 5

Fig 5) Skim the tail safely with the same length attachment as the body, then scissor it parallel all the way around, lifting the hair away from the tail with a comb from all directions and scissor-tip off the entire tail into a long, tubular shape.

FIG. 6

Fig 6) Using a small clipper, do a “lip line” in the front of the mouth, protecting the tongue with your fingers. Clean all the little hairs away from the inside of the mouth by flicking the clipper lightly outward from the lips.

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FIG. 7

FIG. 8

Fig 7) Clip and scissor-finish the back outer edge of both ears. Leave the hair on the front half of the ear to blend into the fuller cheeks.

Fig 8) Scissor the head, creating a round shape extending from the beard under the jaw around behind the ear line and up to the round top knot. The hair under the jaw should be much shorter than the hair on the top of the head and the sides of the cheeks.

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FIG. 9

FIG. 11

Fig 9) This shows the correct shape of the head from the front view.

FIG. 10

Fig 10) Trim only the outer half of the corner of the eye. The area between the eyes should stay wooly and curly. Only a slight trim is needed in the outer half of the eyes for visual needs.

Fig 11) Next, scissor the back of the rounded head down into the shorter neck area. The Lagotto head is much fuller at the front of the head, when viewed in profile, than it is in the back where it blends into the neck.

FIG. 12

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Fig 12) After brushing, deep-combing and skimming an attachment comb, scissor-shape the legs in parallel lines, blending into the body.

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FIG. 14

FIG. 13

Fig 14) After bathing, conditioning and rinsing your Lagotto, let them do that amazing dog shake thing that they do. Do NOT towel, shammy or blow-dry these coats in any way—such rubbing or blowing would break up the ringlets. They will leave the tub still fairly wet. This is important for the formation of the ringlets. Most importantly, allow your Lagotto to airdry in order to protect the formation of the ringlets.

Fig 13) Scissor the feet round. Once the entire comb-out and haircut is completed, bathe the Lagotto in shampoos and conditioners fit for a “long-type” rustic, curly coat: products rich in collagen, humectants and emollients. Then rinse all the conditioner out very thoroughly to avoid softening the coat. Some breed experts recommend only a light leave-in protein conditioner instead of a creamy conditioner.

FIG. 15

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It may feel counter-intuitive to many groomers when grooming a Lagotto Romagnolo that all the brush/ comb-out, clipper work and scissoring into their distinctive breed pattern is all done before the bath and that they must be air-dried to protect their curls, but it is important to remember that although the Lagotto is an ancestor of the Poodle, it is not a curly coat as we are used to. Fluff-drying and straightening these curls would damage or even destroy the rustic, curly coat. 

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AFTER

BEFORE

Senior Yorkie Color Correction & Trim By Blake Hernandez

love to bring an old dog back to its youth! I first saw this done by Cat Opson and knew it was something I’d be doing for the right senior pups from then on. You can do the dye work on just the saddle and still get a great result, and the owners will never want to stop!

FIG. 1

Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

Fig 1) Whenever I am using dye, I always pre-cut any hair that I know can come off. This is going to keep you from wasting product, and it will also make it much easier to get your dye down to the root of the hair. Fig 2) Feet are always timely to dry, so this is another quick pre-cut area I do if the dog is on the table before the bath.

FIG. 2

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FIG. 3

Fig 3) I start

FIG. 4

Fig 4) I use

with the black dye on the saddle since it has to process for at least 45 minutes. I only do the area where he naturally has a darker saddle pattern.

FIG. 5

my fingers to work the color all the way

Fig 5) Next I used a pre-made,

through before

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I switch colors

his natural brown. I just go

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right from the bottle to his skin and work it through.

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

FIG. 6 Fig 6) Now you will let the dye process. I decided to leave his ears alone since they take so long to grow.

Fig 7) Once the dog is rinsed and dried, I begin the groom with a #5F, going with the grain, to take his body down for a short lamb trim.

Fig 8) Then I comb all the hair down on the legs and use a straight shear to sever any hair that hangs past the pads on the same plane as the pad.

Fig 9) I repeat the process on the back legs and then use a curved scissor to round out the shape of the foot while the dog’s foot is down on the table.

FIG. 7

Fig 10) Next I scissor the legs into columns. On this dog I had to go shorter than I had planned to try to remove all of the pink, but some was still left.

Fig 11) To finish, I did just a quick touchup on the face for a clean appearance since this dog is growing out his face.

FIG. 8

FIG. 9

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FIG. 10

FIG. 11

Now this is a dapper young dude at a firm 10 years old! This can easily be done to your aging terriers with black saddles. You can also try this on sable dogs to bring their natural

browns back. In my experience, these types of creative grooms are way easier to convince clients to try because it enhances the natural color of the dog. No matter what you try, have fun! 

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

FIG. 2

P t o c fr e od

Fig 2) Comb the hair just behind the eye sockets forward. This shorter hair is the building block that will hold up the front of your topknot.

Topknot By Jay Scruggs Do you have trouble achieving that perfect Poodle topknot? These step-by-step instructions will have you wowing your clients with that show-dog look and cleaning up in the competition ring in no time!

Fig 1) Start with making sure the topknot is completely tangle-free and straight. I like a longer-tine, wider Poodle comb for this and a good anti-static spray. Comb all the hair towards the back of the skull, otherwise you’ll cut off the front of the topknot when making the initial cut. Groomer to Groomer • Vol 41 Ed 1 • January 2022

Fig 3) Trim the front from corner of the eye to corner of the eye with curved shears angled out away from the dog like you are doing the bevel on the legs.

FIG. 4

FIG. 1

FIG. 3

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Fig 4) Now, with the shears at the same angle, go from the corner of the eye to the front of the ear. This line should be crisp with the clipper line, but still keep in mind that you want a bevel shape, not a square. Flip the ear back and continue that line over the ear.

FIG. 5

FIG. 6

Fig 5) Repeat on the opposite side. Fig 6) Now comb all the hair from left to right and continue the line from the front to the back of the top knot.

FIG. 7

Fig 7) It should

FIG. 8

look symmetrical like this. Fig 8) Repeat on

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FIG. 9

FIG. 10

Fig 9) Now that the sides are finished, comb all the hair forward and clean up any loose ends on the front of the topknot.

Fig 10) With the front and sides finished, continue to blend the back of the head into the neck. Work from the top into the neck and blend.

FIG. 11

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Fig 11) Once the topknot is combed back through and even, comb the ears down and bevel them with a pair of curved shears. 

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