Groove Korea 2016 June

issue 116

bAnyan bliss Exquisite treatment at the banyan tree

Seoul Gaels : An expat club

steeped in commitment

T! BES

The Damyang House

renting at your fingertips

Three

by female Relationships: k-film goes girly

Editorial Vol. 116 June 2016

E d i to r i a l June 2016

G

roove Korea is hungry this month.

And that’s why our hard-working Food and Drink team have put together the Best of Brunch that Seoul has to offer – just for you.

Brunch is the zeitgeisty meal that looks to have nestled into our lives for good--it’s permeated this part of the world, too. If it’s a reaction to the uptick in the hours of human toiling, the increasing inability to disconnect and unplug, then brunch away, urban warriors. If sleeping til noon on a Sunday and rolling out of bed to meet friends for a fruit juice cocktail and a giant plate of photogenic food is how people like to unwind these days, we say alright. We say feast on.

There are certainly worse ways to spend a precious day off.

The team have been out and about to bring you some of the best delights from around the capital. Andy Hume heads to Brera while Diana Weber checks out Mr Holme’s

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cover t h e June 2016

We’ve compiled the best brunch Seoul has to offer from bagels to Americana to brunch in a bar.

Weekend eating just got a whole lot easier.

Cover Photo by Chris St. Germain

Bakery. Charlotte Hammond discovers the wonders at Pick a Bagel and Rob Shelley brings the beer home at Craftworks.

Over in sports, Patrick Hyland gives us the low-down on one of Seoul's most successful expatriate clubs as the Seoul Gaels start on the long road towards the Asian Gaelic Games. Luke Butcher looks at what has been an extremely tight KBO season thus far and Liam Ring ponders the ups and downs of the domestic soccer season as a summer of hot, sweaty action approaches.

In travel, Stefan Lotz finds plenty to satisfy the historically-minded globe trotter in Classical Turkey. Meanwhile, down in the country, Sean Walker gives us the lowdown on how easy – and difficult – it’s been to renovate a property to rent out in Damyang.

Naomi Blenkinsop is also finding her own niche with a look around some of the unique café offerings around Seoul while

Tom Godfrey gets ready to leave town and hit the USA as he and his wife prepare for their visas home. Naheen Madarbakus-Ring experiences some pampering this month with a visit to Lucy Hair and then a relaxing retreat at the Banyan Tree Club and Spa Seoul.

It’s also a big month for music as Emma Kalka reviews some of the hottest acts coming to the capital for our summer festivals. In film world, Simon McEnteggart also previews two of the longest running festivals and then discovers there’s a little girl power in this month’s K-pop releases. Ali Saleh pops into D-Space to find out what all the hype is about and Seolhui Lee gets up close and personal with the latest exhibitions at MMCA. Summer is certainly here so whether enjoying a quiet brunch, getting cultural or enjoying one of this year’s outdoor festivals, get a fill on whatever you choose.

What's in this issue Vol. 116 June 2016

04

EDITORIAL

10

Key People Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

14

What's on Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

20-23

National News national news with Korea JoongAng Daily

40 Pop-up at D-Space for some unique cultural contributions

sponsors 16

Moon Won Clinic Dr Moon offers a helping hand with some solid advice in hair loss

24

Gecko’s Goes National Now with establishments in Seoul, Busan and Jeju, the Gecko's family goes nationwide

Community 26

Bliss at Banyan Tree Chill out, relax and head to Banyan's luxurious treatment spa

28

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www.groovekorea.com June 2016

coffee with themes Whether odd, different or unique, here's a round-up to some kitscher options in Seoul

30

Lucy Hair Lucy Kim shares her story and the success to her salon

32

One Free Pass Rules and regulations for re-entry are changing

33

heading home Preparing to go back home - and getting a visa for your spouse in the US

Entertainment 34

a summer of music Summer's here and so is the music.

Find out where to get your rock on

36

Film Festivals July Two film fests celebrate their 20th outings this year with an impressive program to boot

38

Three By… Led by female relationships, K-film has some big screen favorites released this month

40

D-Space Pop-up at D-Space for some unique cultural contributions

42

a great time to visit Seoul's MMCA MMCA brings artists to the capital with its busy program

Sport 44

Chasing the Holy Grail Patrick Hyland on the Seoul Gaels latest challenge

46

K-League lasts all summer long Doosan continue to lead in the KBO stakes

48

Bears Strong Start Leaves Others Playing Catch-up K-League prepares for an ultracompetitive summer

What's in this issue Vol. 116 June 2016

61

This new brunch joint won't bust the gut or the wallet

Food & Drink 50

Kong Project stage 3 The laetest istallment of Jordan Redmond's aricultural experimece making soy sauce

52

Sprout takes root in seoul’s growing health food market

53

Cocktail A peachy twist on the Arnold Palmer

54

2016 Groove's best of brunch Weekends just got easier: GROOVE compiled the best brunches in Seoul

55

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www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Best modern brunch Swanky Aussie brunch at Bill's

56

Best European Brunch Brunch all'italiana at Brera

57

Best Pastry Brunch Pile your tray with artful pastries in Apgujeong

58

Best Decadent brunch Sinful gourmet fare at Guilty Pleasure

59

Best portable brunch Brunch for the New Yorker inside you

60

Best diner brunch A cradle of classic Americana at Original Pancake House

66

Courting the Classic in Turkey Dipping into the historical with a trip to classical Turkey

70

photoshop Lorenzo Corti and Salgu Wissmath head up PhotoShop this month

61

Best healthy brunch This new brunch joint won’t bust the gut or the wallet

62

Best bar brunch Craftworks breathes new life into bar brunch

Travel 64

the Damyang House From buying, to renovating to renting at the Damyang House

p59

brunch for the New Yorker inside you

Live stages and parties every month.

Wide selection of international beers and food.

Your neighborhood pub in Itaewon since 1999

Gecko's Terrace

2nd Fl., 127 Bogwang-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (Itaewon subway station. Exit #4) Weekdays 12pm-2am / Weekends 12pm-3am 02-749-9425

Seoul Itaewon

Busan Haeundae Beach

Jeju Jungmun

Key people Vol. 116 June 2016

Tom Godfrey

Michael Hanrahan Michael Hanrahan hails from Toronto, Canada and lives in Songdo, Incheon with his wife and two dogs. He earned an H.B.A. from the University of Toronto in politics and history and is currently pursuing a Master's degree. He likes Japanese food, craft beer, the Maple Leafs, and flannel shirts. He also plays in three different rock bands around Seoul.

Tom Godfrey is a writer and photographer from small town Massachusetts. He has been living in Korea for nearly 5 years. He enjoys riding his bicycle, learning to cook Korean food, and traveling around the country. He stays motivated to travel by maintaining a blog of travel photography at tomgodfreyphotos.tumblr.com

Andy Hume

10

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Naheen is the head honcho at Groove Korea.

With interests in travel, Naheen also enjoys finding out about the local community in Korea.

Experimenting with different styles of writing, the Brit is always looking for a new story to publish. When not behind a computer, she likes to take walks down by the stream, beachy holidays and the odd brew.

Andy Hume comes from Glasgow in Scotland. He has been living in Korea since 2009, mostly using the opportunity to eat and drink his way around Asia from beef rendang in Indonesia to Taedonggang beer in North Korea, and getting very fat into the bargain. When not eating or drinking beer, Andy teaches in Seoul, as well as coaching debate at Ewha University and for the Korean national team, and likes to introduce Korean friends to the best foreign food in Seoul – and vice versa – at his blog, sojusunrise.com

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a SHISHA oasis in downtown Jongno

Wines, cocktails and beer

Authentic Indian-themed decors

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The best quality hookah

5th fl., 84-1 Jongro 2ga, Jongro-gu, Seoul Weekdays 12pm-2am / Weekends 12pm-4am 02-725-5684

Seoul UPenn Dental Clinic

서울 유펜 치과 KOREA

Creating Beautiful Smiles Providing Gentle Dental Care

5th floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea.

Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com EDI TORIAL DireCto r

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com ASSISTANT EDI TOR

liam RING liam@groovekorea.com

Do-shik Kim

EDI TORIAL

D.M.D. University of Pennsylvania School of Dental Medicine Periodontics(Gum disease) American Academy of Periodontics Periodontal Prosthesis American Academy of Osseointegration Dental Implant American Dental Association

Community FOOD & DRINK ENTERTAINMENT TRAVEL SPORTS PHOTO

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com charlotte Hammond food@groovekorea.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com liam ring liam@groovekorea.com steve smith photo@groovekorea.com Co py Editors

Gil Coombe, Tom Godfrey

Dental Implant

W RI TERS & CONTRI BUTORS

Crowns (caps) & Fixed Bridges Teeth Whitening Esthetic dentistry (Veneers & Bonding) Periodontal Scaling & Surgery

Patrick Hyland, Luke Butcher, Liam Ring, Naheen Madarbakus-Ring, Tom Godfrey, Darren Bean, Yuna Lee, Naomi Blenkinsop, Emma Kalka, Simon McEnteggart, Ali Saleh, Seolhui Lee, Sean Walker, Stefan Lotz, Mike Hanrahan, Andy Hume, Charlotte Hammond, Yoo Jin Oh, Jordan Redmond, Rob Shelley, Diana Weber, Bobby Kim, Christopher Saint Germain Korea Baseball Organisation, LG Twins, FC Seoul, Seoul Eland FC Diablos, Gecko’s, Moon Won Young Clinic, Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul, Salgu Wissmath, VU ENT, Seoul Soul Music Festival, Han Cinema, Bucheon International Film Festival, Seoul International Animation and Cartoon Festival, D-Space, MMCA, Damyang House, Hannah Green, Lorenzo Corti, Bryan Watkins, Kaegan Saenz, Rachel McDonald Anna Jo, James Thole, Robert Evans, Diana Weber ART & DESIGN

ART DIRECTOR seokyoung Jang design@a-grid.net MARKETIN G & ADMINISTRATION

CFO steve seung-jin lee MARKETING DIRECTOR peter chong ACCOUNTING yi-seul oh W EB & MOBILE

116 Yanghwa-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul 02-324-2525 seoulpenn5901@gmail.com Weekdays 10am-6pm / Sat 10am-1pm Evening hours available by appointment

Hapjung Station Subway Line 2&6

3

9

Seoul Upenn Dental Clinic

Hongik Univ.

Hongdae Station Subway Line 2

himes design www.himesdesign.com finch professtional services www.finchproservices.com PUBLISHER

sean choi sean@groovekorea.com

To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com.

To contribute to groovekorea, promote an event or share your opinions, please email naheen@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

©

All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2016

What's on MON

WED

TUE

TH

1

The Garden of Morning Calm Iris Festival June 1-30

2016 Lavender Festival Gosung-gun, Gangwon province | June 1-21

Seoul International W MEGABOX Sin

6

The 12th Busan International Dance Festival June 3-7

Latin America Festival Hansung Univ. station(subway line #4. Exit 2) in Sungbuk-gu | 12pm-8pm June 11

13

2016 Centum Beer Festival Busan| June 9-19 | all-you-can-drink 8,000-10,000won

15

Jeju Havichi Arts Festival June 13-16

Universal Ballet “Shim Chung” Seoul Arts Center | June 10-18

20

DreamWorks Animation : The Exhibition - Journey from Sketch to Screen SeMA (Seoul Museum of Art) | until Aug 15 / 13,000w adults and 10,000 6-12ages

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www.groovekorea.com June 2016

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Warcraft: The Beginning

29

The Jungle Book

CALENDAR June 2016 FRI

HU

2

Women’s Film Festival nchon | June 2-8

SUN

SAT

3

Hansan Ramie Fabric Cultural Festival Seocheon-gun, Chungnvam province | June 3-6

4

Mohang sea cucumber festival Mohang, Taean-gun | June 4-12

5

Gangneung Danoje Festival Ganggeung, Ganwon province | June 5-12

10

12

Daehangno Small Theatre Festival Hyehwa-dong Seoul | June 9-12

16

2016 Gochang Bokbunja (raspberry) & Watermelon Festival | June 17-19

2016 Ultra Music Festival Olympic Stadium| June 10-12

17

19

2016 FCI Dog Show Korea in KKF Pet Festival aT Center, Yangjae Seoul | June 17-19

23

Seoul International Book Fair 2016 COEX | June 15-19

24

26

2016 Daegu International Musical Festival June 24-July 11

Seoul Handmade Fair DDP (Dongdaemun Design Plaze) | June 23-26

The Legend of Tarzan

15

Criminal

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

30

What can the Lee Moon Won clinic provide for damaged scalps?

The following services are offered by the clinic

1

By having the condition of the scalp examined with a microscope, patients can observe the condition of their scalp and receive a diagnosis from specialists.

2

The professional diagnosis by Dr. Lee Moon Won provides detailed information about the scalp tissue, the size of the irritated area, the possibility of scalp infection and any potential negative influence on hair loss.

3

By providing a professional head spa scalp program, Dr. Lee Moon Won will refer the

patient to the regeneration center, which can help with deep cleansing. Treatments provide damaged scalp tissue with moisture, nutrition and protection using oil therapy to improve blood circulation and decrease the “heavy� head feeling.

4

Finally, professional treatment or medicine will be prescribed. This includes natural-based medicine and customized treatment plans for each type of scalp and problem. The medicine is safe for children and pregnant women and was developed with the purpose of simple and comfortable use by patients with no side effects.

y b d e l b u Tro

Dandruff&Itchiness?

Why the scalp needs protection Story and Photos by Lee Moon Won Clinic

T

he Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic is known as a hair-loss treatment specialist, providing a wide range of programs to get rid of excess dryness, constant itchiness, and annoying dandruff problems. The scalp is the same as the skin on other parts of our body and it regularly renews itself while old tissue falls away in the form of dead skin cells. Sweat and oil (sebum) from the scalp creates a naturally moist and protective coating to shield the skin on your head, allowing hydration and nutrition to be supplied for the better growth of hair. Any changes in the balance of moisture or oil can cause an excess of dead skin cells, oily or dryness problems and other related scalp conditions. Excess dryness weakens the whole surface, making it unable to protect itself from the natural elements. According to the nature of the skin, the scalp can experience increased amounts of dandruff depending on the environment. Dandruff can be explained as a protection layer that is formed over the irritated scalp surface. This excess of dead skin cells, mixed together with sebum makes the layer thicker and causes itchiness. In some cases, an irritated scalp may not produce any dandruff, but the redness and inflammation can cause the thinning of the hair.

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www.groovekorea.com June 2016

The treatment of scalp issues is important for several reasons 1

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Constant itchiness causing scratching until bleeding occurs, increasing the depth of irritation and extending the period of recovery Hair thinning, hair loss or baldness Problems when using cosmetic products for the hair A loss of confidence when communicating with others and in everyday life Stress caused by worrying about thinning hair Need to cover the scalp with headgear Development of bad habits such as scalp touching or scratching Disturbance of sleep Fear of any contact

Three main major principals considered during the treatment of troubled scalp by Dr. Lee Moon Won

1 2 3 W

Reduce the inflammation of the scalp and soothe the irritated areas.

Regenerate skin around problematic areas and promote the immune system of the scalp cells.

Improve the immune system to prevent the problem from recurring .

Scalp & Hair Medical Care program BEAUTY HAIR OR SCALP CARE

hile the treatment of scalp conditions uses products that focus on reducing visual irritation, itchiness and dandruff, as time passes, these symptoms may reappear.

At the Lee Moon Won clinic, Dr. Lee focuses not only on removing irritation, but also on the recovery of the original condition of the scalp. This provides the scalp with a healthy and strong environment guided by the three-step program described above, with treatment plans taking up to two months. Simply put, it’s a safe, “slowly, but surely” process.

All hair types to optimize scalp conditions for healthy, manageable hair, more radiance, vitality and suppleness. Reliving stress at the deepest level, this exceptional treatment is comforting and energizing for the scalp.

Time 2 hours / Price 250,000 KRW

Luxurious head spa and K-beauty program

IT IS DIFFERENT TO HAVE a CLEAN AND HEALTHY SCALP!

Advanced recovery treatment for scalp and hair, including hair styling to add shine , volume and texture. This treatment instantly detangle damaged hair without weighing it down. Hair is easy to style, more resistant, supple and silky.

Time 3 hours / Price 295,000 KRW *Every program includes relaxation massage and blow-drying with style.

FREE GIFT COUPON LMW SHAMPOO - 59,000KRW Applicable for Scalp & Hair Medical Care program • Reservation only • Valid untill Dec 31, 2016 Please present it to the reception desk when you visit our clinic at first place.

3F, Lee&Yu b/d, 69-5 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea 02-511-1079 010-4249-3889 Leemoonwon.international@gmail.com

www.eng.leemoonwon.com

Medicinal herbs based regeneration for scalp and hair • Treatment on distance • Safety and organic ingredients

• Free foreign languages assistance • Full range or services for hair

Over 13 years experience of Specialized service provision!

Examination program

The most important in the treatment of hair loss is to clarify the causes of hair loss, and then the selection of individual treatment for each patient based on the state of the scalp and hair.

Treatment program

The professionalism and tireless work on the improvement of methods and products for the treatment of alopecia gave many answers to solving hair and scalp problems. Dr. Lee Moon Won provides you only the best achievements of the laboratory experiments to reach safe and long lasting result of the treatment.

Scalp and Hair care treatment program

Professional program for hair and scalp treatment care- deep cleaning and recovery of scalp and hair; release stiffness of neck and shoulders muscles, improves blood circulation, anti-aging and antistress total relaxation.

Hair Lab Hair Beauty and style

Professional hair designer will provide you with any type of professional hair- style service based on your individual hair and scalp condition; tips how to cover hair imperfections and bald areas.

LEE MOON WON Homecare product

High quality natural care for professional and home use, developed by Dr.Lee Moon Won for his patients. Easy in use and suitable for all types of hair and skin. Prevent your hair through everyday care.

Operating hours MON/TUE 10AM-7PM WED/FRI 10AM-9PM SATURDAY 9AM-5:30PM For reservation 02-511-1079 010-4249-3889 Leemoonwon.international@gmail.com

서울시 강남구 청담동 69-5 이유빌딩 3층 3F, Lee&Yu b/d, 69-5 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea

www.eng.leemoonwon.com

Nati onal News

In association with June 2016 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity.

The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

Police say schizophrenia causednomurder, t

a hate crime

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olice tentatively concluded that the case of the man who murdered a 23-year-old woman in a bathroom near Gangnam Station was the result of his schizophrenia and not a hate crime against women.

The authorities’ announcement on May 22 comes after two rounds of psychological analyses by five profilers examining the 34-year-old culprit, including Kwon Il-young, the lead profiler in the country.

Kim was diagnosed with schizophrenia in 2008 at a hospital, and since then has been hospitalized six times. Police said Kim showed signs of paranoia as early as 2003, when he allegedly told people around him that he can hear people swearing at him.

“From 2008, Kim showed signs of lacking the basic ability to take care of himself,” police said, “like not taking a shower for more than a year. By the time of his crime, his paranoia was at a critical high, though Kim himself is not aware of his mental condition.”

Kim told police he has felt victimized by On May 17, when he committed the murwomen ever since he attended a theological der, he was four months off his medication seminary two years ago. Police deduced that and two months into living on the streets.

Kim himself denied any misogynist feel- a recent happening at work provoked Kim to commit the murder. ings as part of his reason for stabbing the Kim was working as a server at a restauwoman, who walked into the bathroom near rant until May 7, when the manager suddenly Gangnam Station at around 1:00 a.m. on switched him to kitchen work, citing his poor May 17. hygiene as the reason. Kim allegedly under“I did not commit the crime because I hate women,” the culprit, surnamed Kim, told po- stood this change as having been manipulated by his female coworkers, whom he said talked lice. “I am not a misogynist.” behind his back.

“I did it because women inflicted actual “I could not stand that women were harmharm on me,” Kim said.

When asked to explain his statement, ing me even at work,” Kim allegedly told police. “I needed to kill them first, before they Kim told police that women would shoulder could get to me.” check him on purpose when walking in and “In criminological terms, when a culprit atout of subways, or walk slowly in front of him to make him late for work, or even throw cig- tacks a certain group due to paranoia, it does not translate into a hate crime,” police said. arette butts at him.

“The culprit makes decisions based on his “For instance, if someone kills three people of a certain race out of paranoiac fear, authorifeelings alone,” police said. “Once he feels ties see that as a crime stemming from mental something to be true, it becomes the truth for illness, not as a racist hate crime.” him.”

Nonhyun serviced apartment

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21

Kim initially told authorities that he killed the woman out of vengeance because he felt that women looked down on him, leading many to label the murder as a hate crime against women.

When it was revealed that Kim let six men, who walked into the bathroom before the female victim, walk free, this only added fuel to the fire.

The public display for mourning that began with hundreds of Post-it notes on Exit 10 of Gangnam Station exploded into a nationwide movement, quickly spreading to Busan, Daejeon and Daegu.

Hundreds of Post-it notes mourning the death of the woman cover a heart-shaped structure near the shopping complex Judies Taehwa in Busanjin District, Busan, after a few students began to post notes on the structure.

BY May 22, more than a thousand notes covered a Jungangno Station exit on Daegu Metro Line 1, and hundreds covered Exit 3 of City Hall Station on Daejeon Metro Line 1.Some 500 people, many of them women in their 20s to 30s, gathered on May 21 evening near Exit 10 of Gangnam Station to hold a memorial ceremony.

Nati onal News

Celebrity painter accused of outsourcing his art

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rosecutors charged Cho Youngnam, 71, a Korean singer, author, television personality, radio show host and artist who rose to mega-stardom in the 1970s and 80s, with fraud on May 17, saying he appears to have sold a number of paintings he didn’t actually paint.

The announcement by prosecutors in Sokcho, Gangwon, came a day after they raided Cho’s office and art studios in response to a report last month by a man who claimed he had been painting on Cho’s behalf, doing most of the work and receiving only 10 percent of the proceeds.

It remains unclear how many pieces Cho may have sold under the arrangement, to whom and for how much, but prosecutors are investigating. Sources in the local art industry who have knowledge of Cho’s work said his paintings usually sell for millions of won and up to tens of millions of won.

In a February 2011 interview with Ilgan Sports, an affiliate of the Korea JoongAng Daily, Cho said an eight-painting collection had sold for 800 million won ($680,000).

The alleged outsourcing of Cho’s paintings was picked up by prosecutors in Sokcho, 130 miles east of Seoul, when a 60-year-old artist there claimed in April that he has painted around 300 pieces for Cho over the past eight years. Prosecutors quoted the man as saying he paints 90 percent of a work, allowing the singer to finish it and sign it. The man said Cho would give him a draft and order several copies.

The paintings were mostly inspired by hwatu, a Korean card game also known as GoStop. Prosecutors said the ghost-painter came clean out of a guilty conscience, adding that he claimed to refuse to paint for Cho at one point for a period of a year. The authority put weight

on text messages exchanged between Cho’s manager and the ghost-painter that show the manager naming titles of paintings and Cho Young-nam discusses his life as an artist in February 2011 during an interview with explicitly ordering the JoongAng Ilbo at his house in Gangnam District, southern Seoul. ⓒJoongang Photo him to paint more sourcing artworks in Korea. of them.

An artist in Daegu, who requested anoIn an exclusive telephone interview with nymity for this article, said the practice was so the JoongAng Ilbo on May 16, Cho adamantly common that many of his colleagues refer to it denied any wrongdoing, asserting that “all artas “operating a factory.” ists have assistants” and that the 60-year-old “It means that a renowned artist who sells was one of a few. his work at an expensive price does so by hir“An assistant is someone who helps me ing unknown artists or college students mabecause I can’t find enough time,” Cho was joring in art,” the source said. quoted as saying. “An assistant is someone The process allows them to have many who does as I say. I show a sample, and [the pieces worked on simultaneously. assistant] creates the same thing.”

“There have always been rumors that celWhen asked how much his paintings sold ebrated artists in Korea run their own factofor, Cho refused to reply, insisting he did his ries,” he said. “It is not only Cho.” assistant a favor by giving him work and payChin Jung-kwon, a culture critic and proing him part of the sales. fessor of liberal arts at Dongyang University “I ordered him to paint all kinds of misin Yeongju, North Gyeongsang, said on his cellaneous paintings, knowing he can’t earn a Twitter account that the prosecution’s investiliving without me giving him work,” Cho said. gation into Cho was an “overaction.”

“He’s now caused trouble.”

“It might sound weird,” Chin wrote on While details of Cho’s assistant remain May 17, “but after the emergence of conceplargely opaque, the JoongAng Ilbo has detual art and pop art, it has actually been very scribed him as an artist who worked for 28 common for an artist to suggest the concept [of years in the United States after earning an art an artwork] and have someone else physically degree from an American college. He returned carry it out.” to Korea in 2008 and got in touch with Cho. He added that “the kernel is the concept, Prosecutors have yet to announce any plans and who provided it; if Cho Young-nam was to summon Cho for questioning but said the the one who did so, it wouldn’t be a problem.” time will come. Critics from the local art inChin also said in his tweet that the cut dustry have responded with mixed reactions, Cho’s assistant received was “too cheap.” with many highlighting the prevalence of out-

Gyeonggi English Village closes after 10 years

Yeoksam business hotel

reasonable stay

at the perfect location

T

he Gyeonggi English Village, the first residential English camp in Korea located in Paju and Yangpyeong County, Gyeonggi, is closing down after a decade of operation.

The Gyeonggi English Village, which opened in April 2006, was created to give the public a place to experience English-speaking culture and learn the language in the context of everyday life.

The village has struggled with low attendance. Last year, approximately 22,000 people visited the English Village, or about 610 visitors per day. The village lent out 10 of its 17 buildings to other organizations to augment its revenue. With the boom in private language academies and more students traveling abroad for language study, demand for the village’s more carefree classes was undercut.

To remedy the situation, the Gyeonggi English Village Foundation signed a memorandum of understanding (MOU) on May 28 with the Ministry of Education, Gyeonggi Provincial Council, Korea Foundation for the Advancement of Science and Creativity, and the Software Policy & Research Institute to turn the camp into a youth development center.

The new center will be dedicated to cultivating new kinds of talented students.

“We have felt a sense of crisis that under the current education system, it will be challenging to prepare for what’s coming in the future,” said Nam Kyung-pil, governor of Gyeonggi. “Accordingly, reform of the education system is becoming a hot topic in the country. With this in mind, the purpose of the MOU today is for Gyeonggi to establish an educational foundation for the future and lead the way.”

FREE Wi-Fi | FREE parking 8 mins from COEX 5 mins from Gangnam subway station T +82 2 554 8342 F +82 2 557 6190 nh@innthecity.co.kr www.innthecity.co.kr

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Samsung stn (COEX)

CSponso OMMUNIrTY s Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Gecko’s Goes National

Restaurant and pub chain opens four branches across Korea.

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by Gecko’s

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ecko’s opened in 1999 and is no stranger to the Itaewon strip.

However, there’s no denying that the last 17 years have been a rollercoaster ride for the brand, but with changes in hand, it’s thriving now more than ever. After a shakeup of its branches, management, and menu, the new Gecko’s is ready to roll and has something different to offer its clientele.

The restaurant, bar, and music venue caters for every entertainment need. Providing a warm, friendly atmosphere in all of its three branches, enjoy an afternoon or evening with good food, a relaxing atmosphere and rock, pop and oldies but goodies playing in the background. A new menu is in the mix and will be introduced into their kitchens and dining rooms later this month and, with the added popularity of its live music events and sports showings, Gecko’s is becoming the place to go any time of day.

With the arrival of summer, the main Itaewon branch boasts an outdoor terrace which

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Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Sponso r s

COMMUNI TY

basks in the afternoon sunshine on the main strip and is undoubtedly a great spot to people watch. The pub serves food all day with a special brunch menu until 2.30pm and the kitchen is open to take orders until 10pm. Popular plates include lasagna, burgers, chicken tenders and salads; in June, the pub will also be adding their own signature plates to the mix.

Live music events are planned twice a month, inviting every genre to the stage. Past acts have included Korean rock bands and expat artists to provide a show for all tastes. The house DJ is always on hand playing a variety of tunes to suit any decade and any music style. Indeed, by day, the venue invites those looking for an afternoon getaway, while by night, the party gets going, Gecko’s style.

Gecko’s is also the proud sponsor of three sports teams, supporting the current ice-hockey champions, a soccer team and an active darts outfit, all of whom wear the Gecko’s jersey with pride. It’s no secret that Gecko’s love their sports and if you want to join in, go up to the bar and ask for details. Even if you don’t

Gecko’s Pension is a 20-room guesthouse want to be part of a team, just come and watch which is a great option when looking to escape the games and support the Gecko’s family. the Seoul summer for a weekend. The guestGecko’s are now going national, having exhouse is centrally located within Jungmoon panded upon its high profile corner location a on the south coast of Jeju Island, stone’s throw away from Itaewon just 40 minutes from the airport Station (Exit 4). The owners have with surrounding sights, beachbeen cooking up an extension of Indeed, by day, es and shopping complexes a different caliber and Gecko’s the venue invites nearby. Rooms are available for is now open for business across those looking the country. Gecko’s Jukjeon in for an afternoon under KRW 100,000 per night Bundang is the closest Seoulgetaway, while by and come in all shapes and sizes, with or without terraces – just night, the party side and Gecko’s Haeundae sits gets going, visit www.geckos.co.kr to find proudly across from Haeundae Gecko’s style. out more.

Beach in Busan with Gecko’s Gecko’s is changing its style Jungmoon in Jeju opening soon and wants anybody visiting to to complete the Gecko’s set. feel at home. With its traditional seating and Gecko’s Haeundae spans two floors with décor, oldies but goodies playlist and in-house a glorious location a few minutes from the events taking place over the month, settle in beach. The first floor boasts an outdoor seating for what could be an afternoon at a friend’s area for those hot summer days and a second house or an evening house party. Gecko’s offloor with large bay windows with impressive fers an ambiance which is friendly, comfortviews of the sea. Sunset parties and smaller able and inviting, so come down and create rock concerts are usually on the agenda over memories at Gecko’s. the summer months so check out their Facebook page for the latest news.

The Gecko’s family now seeks to serve Address (Seoul) 128-5 Itaewon 1-dong, the same quality food in all locations, with a Yongsan-gu, Seoul consistent brand across the country. Food and Address (Bundang) 9th fl., Wooyoung drink specials will be introduced later this Plaza, 1266-2 Bojung-dong, Giheung-gu, Yongin-si, month and with the Gecko’s formula found in Gyeonggi Address (Busan) Pale de CZ, 1124-2 Jungall three locations, there’s something for evdong, Haeundae-gu, Busan eryone, whatever city you are in. tel(Jeju) 064-738-7901 As the established Itaewon and Haeundae Website www.geckoskorea.co.kr flagship pubs lead the way, the management Facebook www.facebook.com/geckoskorea are also focusing on stepping toward anothtime Weekdays 12pm-2am / Weekends 12pm-3am er business to be located even further south.

C OMMU NI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com June 2016 26

Bliss

Banyan Tree The Banyan tree club & spa seoul’s five-star treatment Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by Banyan Tree Seoul

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

C OMMU NI TY Address The Club (3F), 60, JangChungdan-Ro, Jung-Gu, Seoul 100-857 Korea Cost Signature Program: Balinese Massage (60 to 90 minutes) KRW 200,000 / KRW 270,000 Time10am-10pm Website www.banyantreeclub.com Email spa.seoul@banyantree.com Tel 02-2250-8115-6

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medium to firm treatment. Curious, I ask Ann the difference between soft, medium and firm, and after a quick demonstration, decide that my choice of medium strength was the right one.

The Balinese treatment is an oil massage treatment which uses a black pepper and Ylang Ylang mix. The full body treatment is available in 60, or 90 minute sessions and also offers a revitalizing facial massage with oil.

The hour and a half certainly passed quickly and it wasn’t long before I was directed toward the bathroom again to get changed. Although showers are available, it is recommended that with oil treatments, the skin is left to absorb it for at least 24 hours.

After changing, I enter the room again to find that a tidy up had already occurred. The massage table is all ready for the next client and a pot of ginger and honey tea with dried fruit awaits me. After a sit down and a few sips of tea, the relaxation finally hits me.

As I walk down the lemongrass passage again, my shoes are waiting and Ann says goodbye. I leave behind the scented corridors, ambient music and my stress and as I step outside, I don’t even care that it’s still raining.

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I walk down a vibrant and incense-filled t’s a cold and rainy day as I head out of hallway. Ann informs me that the scent is Beotigogae Station and make my way changed every day and that today’s chosen toward Namsan Tower. Slap bang in the fragrance is lemongrass. The rooms are also middle of the early May four-day weeknamed after popular scents used in massage end, it was a good idea (at the time) to make an treatments as I make my way to the aptly appointment for a massage. A couple of hours named Lemongrass room to prepare for my away from the husband, a chance to relax and Balinese massage. One of four couple rooms, an opportunity to see exactly what the Banthere are two beds for my solo massage alyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul’s massage service though five single rooms are also available for is all about. those coming alone. The couple option, howAs I turn up at the spa reception with a ever, does have the extra feature of a tradidamp coat, dripping umbrella and steamed tional circular wooden bath in the middle up glasses, I am certainly reconsidering of the room which offers a soak after my decision. However, my appearlonger treatments. ance doesn’t faze the check-in The couple Ann shows me to the staff at all. Asked whether I option however, private bathroom and asks would like a warm or cold does have the extra me to change, motioning tea, I order something feature of a traditional toward the wardrobe and warm – and then counter circular wooden bath the freshly cleaned robe that with an additional and to come on through request for cold water. in the middle of the when I am ready. There Check-in is complete with room which offers a is an option for a shower a short questionnaire about soak after longer before but I opt for the foot previous health issues before treatments. scrub instead. The green tea I am asked if I am ready. At this and honey mix scrub is refreshing point, I am curious about the types and is already putting to bed those soggy of massage on offer and, more importantmemories from the morning. Ann then asks ly, how strong (read: painful) they might be. A me to choose from a peppermint, lavender selection of no less than eight massage types or rose scent (of which I choose the lavender) varying in strength, oils and scents are placed which is promptly placed under the bed for a before me and suddenly I am a little confused. soothing aroma whilst being massaged.

I ask about the difference in style and am Having spoken to Ann about areas needguided through the list: Lomi Lomi, the most ing attention, she gets to work. The room popular treatment, is medium strength where smells of my chosen lavender scent and I as the Swedish and Tender Touch are for softer suddenly notice that some ambient music has strokes. I am recommended to have the Balibeen slipped on in the background. I speak nese experience before Ann, my masseuse to Ann a little, finding out she has worked at for today, appears before me to lead me to the Banyan Tree for five years and then wonder treatment rooms. if I have made the right decision about my After slipping into some indoor slippers,

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

C OMMU NI TY

Café Jool At Café Jool, paint your very own coffee mug whilst enjoying a delicious café latte or Americano. An arts and craft/hobby café that allows customers to enjoy a fun, creative activity while filling up on caffeine, Café Jool opened in 2010 and fits in well with the artsy, trendy streets of Hongdae. The first thing to do here is choose the size and style of mug you would like to paint. Each mug is priced differently depending on your choice, ranging from KRW 16,000 – 26,000. After being given a set of paints, the owner - although his English speaking skills are not strong – will give instructions and tips on how paint the mug. With the café virtually full of handmade painted mugs, a variety of different styles provide inspiration for your creation. After decorating, either pick up your mug in two weeks or have it delivered to your door. Café Jool is the perfect café to come alone to enjoy an artsy afternoon or with friends for a fun art date.

Address Jool Café, 368-26 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea Station Hongdae Station (Line 2, Exit 9,) Hapjeong Station (Line 6, Exit 3) Directions Walk approximately 5 minutes until you reach a wedding hall.

Turn left and walk up to the top of the street and Café Jool is on the corner.

Cost KRW 16,000 – 26,000 to paint a mug

Hitting the local cafés that add a spin to your coffee Story by Naomi Blenkinsop Photos by Salgu Wissmath

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Café Ddong Poop Café is in the heart of artsy Insadong and is one of the more eccentric facets of Korean culture. Continuing their strange fascination with poop, Poop Café’s theme is not thrown in your face; who would ever think poop could be cute and pretty? The café is filled with colorful poop-shaped note paper and there is even a tree with the poopshaped paper used as leaves. Colorful poop-shaped pillows are available for naps and beverages are served in gorgeous toilet-shaped mugs – which can also be bought as a souvenirs. A wide range of flavored lattes and traditional Korean teas also make this a unique Korean beverage experience. Drinks are a bit pricy so be prepared but after visiting Poop Café in Insadong, you may come to appreciate the Korean fascination with poop a little more.

Address Ssamzie-gil Building, Gwanhung-dong, Jongno-gu, 4F Station Insadong Station (Line 3, Exit 6) Directions From Insadong, walk until to Insadong Street Market is on your left.

Walk for 5 minutes to Ssamziegil and Café Ddong is on the fourth floor.

Cost KRW 5,000 - 10,000

Miss Lee Café in Insadong is a party for the senses. Filled with love notes, the walls are covered in writing from years past. Also serving as a mini-museum, take a trip down memory lane with many vintage signs, animations, toys and gadgets on show. This café has a very lively and frenetic energy and is usually full of laughter and lively conversation. This is a popular café with a menu that offers unique Korean taste sensations so experience a dosirak (like a Korean lunch box) to experience what children took to school in the 80’s and 90’s. Shake it all up and indulge in a quintessential Korean-style lunch. For snacks and desserts, try a dish from the amazing traditional Korean dessert menu or order one of the many traditional Korean beverages and lattes. This iconic café is a must-do for those who want to get a feel for Korean culture through the decades.

Benedict Cumberbatch has made Sherlock Holmes quite a popular character in South Korea so it comes as no surprise that 221B is a themed café devoted to him. A tasteful homage to both Sherlock Holmes and the UK, this is the perfect café to chill out or get some studying done. Divided into two sections, the back of the café is a contrasting black and white with a TV screen playing Sherlock Holmes reruns, complete with some cozy leather couches. Up front, and a modern décor of wood with splashes of red and black play backdrop to framed portraits and memorabilia of Sherlock Holmes. If you feel like having a lazy afternoon, read a Sherlock Holmes novel from their Sherlock mini-library. Sherlock mugs or even Sherlock coffee beans are on sale - which is rumored to be blended with black licorice. If you are a fan of Sherlock Holmes, this café will definitely be up your alley.

Address Gangnam-gu, Hakdong-ro, 43 gil 6 Station Gangnam District Office Station (Line 7 and Bundang Line, Exit 3) Directions From Gangnam District Office Station, walk straight. Turn right at the post office and walk for 1 block. There is a statue of Sherlock Holmes and the café is on your right.

Cost KRW 4,000 – 10,000

Over the past decade, coffee culture has become a huge phenomenon in Seoul, with multiple cafes found on virtually every street - cafés which fit almost every taste bud and budget range from more modest mom and pop stores to tried and tested franchise chains to luxurious and elegant establishments. It seems café brands and thus, café entrepreneurs, have been looking for new and fun ways to make their place stand out from the rest. Enter the new and unexpected quirky theme cafes that have become an unusual trend to be reckoned with. Offering every theme imaginable from animal cafes to gaming, to be quirkier and more eccentric is essential. Here are five outstanding theme cafes to ramp up your café experience.

Coffeegraphy

Address Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong, 63-1 Station Itaewon Station (Line 6, Exit 4) Noksapyeong (Line 6, Exit 3) Directions From Itaewon Station, walk straight until you reach Lush. Turn left and walk until the crossroads and turn left then turn right between dress store and the Greek restaurant and it’s on the right.

Cost KRW 5,000 – 20,000

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

One thing Koreans love alongside their coffee is taking pictures or selfies with smart phones. Photographer Min Jun Choi cleverly capitalized on these two trends by opening Coffeegraphy, which combines the Korean love of coffee with photography. Nestled nicely in the picturesque backstreets of Itaewon alongside many other hidden must-see shops, cafes and restaurants, Choi specializes in casual, spontaneous photography, providing customers with props to enhance the photo fun factor.

Divided into two (one half being the café and the other being the photo studio), this café has become extremely popular in a short time. Customers often call beforehand to check if it’s busy although reservations cannot be made; it’s first come, first serve. Fortunately, with a great menu of lattes, teas, smoothies and even a few pastries, these can tide you over while you wait. Choi takes photos in several poses and styles so customers have a good variety to choose from after being uploaded to his computer. Choose your favorite ones to print in black and white or color to take home with you. Coffeegraphy is the ideal café for good friends, couples and even families who want to capture their fun, silly side on film.

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Address 144, Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea Station Insadong Station (line 3, exit 6) Directions From Insadong, walk until Insadong Street Market is on your left. Miss Lee Café is the first café on the right – do not enter the market!

Cost KRW 5,000 – 10,000

C OMMU NI TY

221B

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Miss Lee Café

C OMMU NI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Lucy Hair The local stylist with International knowledge Story by Naheen Madarbakus- Ring Photos by Salgu Wissmath

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n just five years, Lucy Kim has watched her business grow. The self-named business, Lucy Hair, has become an established salon in Sinchon’s sassy district and continues to attract new clientele. The convenient location is

salons and became familiar with South London’s New Malden area. A safe haven for Koreans visiting the motherland, Lucy decided to then branch out and couple her scissor skills with her language ability as she worked on not only her hair education but on improving her

a stone’s throw away from Exit 1 and appeals to the local community for myriad reasons. From the selection of rinses available to the friendly foreigner ambience, Lucy Hair can cater to any hair need.

Lucy Kim’s history with hair dates back to February 2000. After spending six years in South London to improve her styling and English language skills, Lucy worked in three

English. After a lot of hard work in both the stylistic and linguistic departments, the newly trained stylist returned to Korea in 2007 having spent valuable time in the aisles of renowned central London hair establishments Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon. She then continued to build her portfolio and worked for four years in different salons in Seoul before opening her own self-named salon on March 23, 2011.

On the opening of Lucy Hair, the owner remembers the day fondly, modestly admitting that it was never her intention to open her own place. But when the opportunity – and space – arose, the local hairdresser with the international knowledge decided it was a chance too good to pass on and she has never looked back.

Clients are mainly drawn from the area’s local Yonsei University student body and the international clientele that reside in and visit the capital. As a salon niche, Lucy says that the English speaking support and personal attention on offer are important in ensuring that every customer can experience that just-outof-the-salon look every time.

The salon has a comfortable ambience and cozy second-floor space which sits opposite the mighty Hyundai building in Sinchon. The salon is strategically planned with a central row of mirrors spanning the salon with chairs

C OMMU NI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

more trusted Korean brands are also being utilized upon the stylists’ recommendation. The team of five staff (three of whom are English speakers) have their work cut out most of the week and especially at weekends when the salon is brimming as clients come in for their hairstyle frills.

With all services on offer from a simple blow dry to a re-vamp cut and color, find your own inner confidence at the fingertips of Lucy Kim and her fellow hairstylists at Lucy Hair.

Address 2f, 30-10 Chang Cheon-Dong, Seodaemun-Gu, Seoul Time 10am-8pm (every day but closed Tuesdays) Transport Sinchon Station (Line 2, Exit 1).

Take the first right and walk 80 meters, and Lucy Hair is on your right. tel 02-325-2225 Website www.lucyhair.com

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

and a choice of imported and local hair products for rinses and hair coloring. Sitting conveniently next to the sinks is an inviting minicafé which offers coffee, tea and biscuits to all clients on their visits.

To jazz up those weekend hair appointments, Lucy offers impromptu wine servings on Saturday evenings to help those getting styled into the party mood. As the salon is open until 8pm, just ask for a glass, sit back and enjoy the relaxing vibe.

Lucy Hair provides extensive services for all hair needs but favorites include blonde highlights, up-dos for those special nights out and a Brazilian blow-out (or straightening to you and me). The scissor blades have also been privy to a host of celebrities including the stars of musicals Wicked, Phantom of the Opera, and other visiting entourages. Lucy explains how clients feel comfortable with the removal of the language barrier as they can have a full consultation in confidence to find the perfect style or color for them.

Using a range of imported products including favored brands L’Oreal and Wella also boosts the salon’s popularity although some

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lined either side to offer privacy between you and your stylist.

Over in a corner cove are two wash basins, complete with comfy reclining chairs

Story by Darren Bean and Yuna Lee Illustrated by Rachel McDonald

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

C OMMU NI TY

One free pass

Re-entry allowed for those who leave by September.

A person who overstays his or her visa, perhaps for no other reason than failing to extend it, can face an exit order and re-entry prohibitions and difficulties in obtaining a new visa for years to come.

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tion will allow those staying illegally in Korea frequent problem with minor imto leave and not face a re-entry ban if they migration transgressions is that meet the following three criteria. they have major unintended conFirst, the person must have not committed sequences. A person who overstays his or her any serious crimes. Immigravisa, perhaps for no other reason tion has not released their interthan failing to extend it, can face an exit order and re-entry prohiIf a person would nal guidelines on what “serious� bitions and difficulties in obtainotherwise qualify means, but officials have indicated that (at a minimum) sexual ing a new visa for years to come. for a visa, this crimes and drug offenses would The unintended result of this is offers a rare that many people then continue window to address be considered serious. Some officials have suggested that, before to stay in country in violation the illegal of the law, hoping that they can overstay without leaving, anyone with outstanding minor offenses should seek continue to support themselves a re-entry ban. to resolve them, as otherwise (or even their families) while cirthere may be a separate entry cumventing deportation. ban based on these. (In some cases, a travel Essentially, the strictness of immigration ban may be in place pending resolution of the law tends to lead to more violations.Recogoffense, making it impossible for the person to nizing this, and in a bid to reduce the number leave the country.) of foreigners who are illegally in Korea, from Second and third, the person must purApril 1 until September 30 this year, Immigra-

chase a ticket to depart and report to Immigration on the third floor of Incheon Airport on their way out of the country. The airline’s check-in counter should inform the person of the need to report themselves. The person leaving should arrive at the airport early enough to not only check-in and clear security, but also to be processed by Immigration.

He or she will be given an Exit Order, but their voluntary reporting and departure will be recorded and no re-entry ban should follow.

If a person would otherwise qualify for a visa, this offers a rare window to address the illegal overstay without a re-entry ban. Any person taking advantage of this program should keep his/her ticket and the Exit Order for evidence in the future, and note which officials they talk to and when.

Yuna Lee is a Korean attorney with Seowoo Minyul Law Office in Seoul. Darren Bean is a California attorney residing in Seoul.

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bout 6 months ago, I proposed Part One: The Meeting to my Korean girlfriend; we This part of the process is straightforward. It involves legally married shortly thereafproving who the couple is and that the relationship ter. We had been together for nearly two is genuine. To get your case moving, you need to fill out a handful of simple forms. Chief among them years and had been to the Philippines, Jais the I-130 Petition for Alien Relative. This two-page pan, and even to the USA for my sister’s form asks simple questions about you and your spouse. wedding. I wanted nothing more than to Next, you and your spouse need to fill out individual be with her, but I also wanted to go home.

G-325A Biographic Information forms.

I had been in Korea for nearly This form is easy but inconvenient.

5 years and felt my time comYou need to list where you have lived The immigrating ing to an end. In my naivety, and worked for the past 5 years. spouse will get I thought that my fiancé and I had to spend a Saturday walking to to spend a night I could fly home, make a cabuildings that used to be occupied by sual trip to the local town reminiscing because now defunct hagwons with my GPS they have to hall and immigration would to get addresses. In a perfect world, list every address Korean addresses are short and fit be simple. It was one of the they have lived at onto the form but this is reality: you dumbest things that I have since they were will probably need to make another ever come up with. This ar16 years old. form to finish your addresses. You will ticle is for people in the same also need a copy of your US passport boat. Immigration to the US ID page (proof of US citizenship) as is determined on a case-by-case basis: well as a copy of your ARC. my story might not be your story. Think The last step is to prove that you have a real of this as a small pocket guide for the marriage. To do this, start with your wedding tricky bits. certificate (if you were married in Korea you will First, we applied for a CR-1 visa. This need to get the Marriage Relation Certificate, Basic visa applies to the foreign spouse of a Certificate, and Family Relation Certificate and then translate them). Next, amass all of your proof. A lease couple that has been married for less with your names on it is important. Joint bank accounts than 2 years. In ordinary circumstancare useful. We relied heavily on photographs and I es, this visa can take north of a year to found myself thankful for social media like Facebook get; however, this is where we get lucky. and Instagram.

The US Embassy in Korea has a USCIS When you show up to your appointment at the US field office and does not need to rely on a Embassy, you will stand in front of a window as a very processing center in the USA. This cuts the curt clerk goes through your paperwork, asks a few whole process down to a few months and questions, destroys your layout, and discards anything we only needed to go to the US Embassy that they do not need on file. You will then part with twice. $420 and be on your way after being told you will

Contact info seoul.usembassy.gov Forums like visajourney.com

hear about the next step in a month or so as long as everything checks out.

C OMMU NI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Story & Photos by Tom Godfrey

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

A rough guide to the CR-1 Visa

Three weeks later, while walking my newly unemployed self to McDonalds, I heard the ping of an email informing me that our application had been accepted and it was time to prepare for our interview.

This is where things can get tricky.

Included in the email will be your case number.

Your spouse will use this case number to arrange a medical check-up at an embassy-approved hospital.

This should cost around KRW 200,000 but will be more if you need any vaccines.

The email will also direct you to fill out the online DS-260. For some, this is painless but for us it was a nightmare. The log-in information didn’t work and it took several weeks for this to be fixed. The information required by the US citizen is minimal.

The immigrating spouse will get to spend a night reminiscing because they have to list every address they have lived at since they were 16 years old.

Perhaps the most stressful part of this whole process is the I-864 Affidavit of Support. The purpose of this form is to show that you and your spouse will not end up on welfare immediately after arriving in the USA. To do this you need to prove that you (or a joint sponsor) make 125% of the Federal Poverty Guidelines for your state. If you are thinking about starting this process, you should know that one of the questions asked is if you have filed US taxes for the past three years. Answering “No” would require an explanation and thus possibly delay your case. This would be a good time to get your taxes in order if, like me, you might have forgotten to file for the past several years.You will need the IRS tax transcript from the most recent year to fill out the I-864. If you made all of your money in Korea for that year, your income will be listed as zero. All of those hours yelling at kids and desk-warming count for nothing in the eyes of the USA. This is where anything you can show of value will help.

We provided copies of bank statements and records of key-money deposits. If you do not have a job lined up, it would be a good idea to write a letter stating your employment plans.

Most sources online and on the US Embassy helpline will tell you that foreign income will not count towards anything. It will be recommended that you secure a joint sponsor, likely a parent. In this case they also need to fill out an I-864 and their spouse (if any) will need to fill out a simpler I-864A. My parents spent days collecting paperwork and filling out forms. At one point, my mother made a nearly seven-hour drive to her hometown in order to get her birth certificate.

However, despite being recently unemployed and even being told by immigration to have a co-sponsor, my income was accepted as enough. The woman behind the glass then dumped all of my parents’ hard work in the trash.

The final thing you need to prove is that your home is in the USA and you have a place to live upon return. I showed them my credit card bill and a notarized letter from my parents saying we could live there. By the time you are done with all of this, you have likely gotten into a fight with all of your family members and become a frequent poster on immigration forums. You are essentially done. When it came time for our interview, we were asked two questions and that was it. We paid our $325 and were out the door.

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Heading Home

Part Two: The Interview

South Korea’s music festival season has kicked off in full swing.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Story by Emma Kalka Photos by VU ENT, Seoul Soul Music Festival 2016

As the summer heat settles across the Korean peninsula, the hills seem to come alive with the sound of music with festival season officially kicking off. The summer brings something for every kind of music lover out there, ranging from EDM to hip-hop, and from indie rock to R&B. The following are just a few of the music festivals that the country has to offer this summer.

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www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Rainbow Island Music & Camping Festival | June 18-19 Those looking to become one with nature while enjoying a strong line-up of Korean indie rock’s best can check out the Rainbow Island Music & Camping Festival on June 18-19 in Jaruseom, Gapyeong. The festival describes the event as “set away from the city so that people can fully focus on themselves,” continuing with the sublime suggestion that one can “close your eyes for a moment and feel the music through your ears and your heart. On the other side of the campfire you can see busking and music artists spread everywhere.” Heralding itself as two festivals in one, Rainbow Island is bringing in the likes of headliner Jang Kiha and the Faces, 10cm, Life & Time, Reflex, Idiotape, Sweden Laundry, Mood Salon, Zion.T and many more artists yet to be announced. The festival also includes several stages, including the unique “Busking Paradise” for those willing to give the stage a shot. If looking to get up close and personal with the environment, Rainbow Island offers a large camp ground with various camping packages for guests. There is no need to bring any supplies: Rainbow Island will provide all the camping equipment needed from sleeping bags and lanterns to tents. There are also caravan sites available to rent for those planning to camp with friends and some spots allowing fires and cooking to encourage those bringing their own food. Two-day tickets are currently KRW 55,000 for Early Bird tickets, though regular tickets at the time of the festival will be KRW 88,000. Camping tickets run from KRW 30,000 for a two-person site up to KRW 150,000 for a six-person caravan site. Tickets are for sale on Interpark, Yes24, Ticket Monster and Naver Booking. website www.rainbowfestival.co.kr/2016/

website umfkorea.com

Waterbomb | July 30 One way to beat the summer heat is to check out a unique fest that is part water fight, part music festival – Waterbomb. The dance music festival is bringing in some big names from home and abroad in its second year, and boasts that it is, as festival organizers claim, “a powerful festival that you can throw your whole body into”. “This year especially, with the intense music, special effects and various performances, will be an even more thrilling experience,” comment the organizers. The way the festival works is that attendees choose a team – red or blue – upon buying a ticket. Throughout the day, there will be designated water fight times when the crowd are then encouraged to shoot water guns, throw water balloons and participate in other watery mayhem. The festival says it will have a variety of water games and other events available for guests. Headlining the festival is OWSLA-signed electronic music producer and DJ Kill the Noise in his first show ever in South Korea. The US DJ has played at major festivals including Tommorrowland, Ultra Music Festival, Coachella, Lollapalooza and others, where he “captivated the audience with his distinctive and powerful sound and unstoppable charisma,” festival organizers described. Also taking to the stage at Waterbomb are AOMG artists Simon Dominic, Gray and Loco as well as DJ Wegun and DJ Pumkin. Magnetic rapper Jessie rounds out the hip-hop artists on the line-up. DJs Inside Core, S2, Vandal Rock, Juncoco, D.I.D., Peachade, DJ Koo and Maximite will also perform. Tickets are available on Yes24, Interpark, Ticket Monster and Naver Booking. Early Bird tickets are available for KRW 55,000, but regular tickets are KRW 88,000.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

EDM fans can rejoice. The first major music festival up this summer is none other than mega electronic music event, Ultra Music Festival. What started as a two-day fest back in 2012 is back for three full days with a massive lineup and the best DJs and producers from all over the globe. Ultra Music Festival started in Miami, Florida, in 1999 and today is held in 15 countries around the world. Coming to the Seoul version are big names Afrojack, Avvicii, deadmau5, Knife Party and Rabbit in the Moon. Also gracing the stage are some of Asia’s best, including The Koxx, DJ Koo and Kisuke. More artists are set to be announced in the run up to the show to complete the line-up at the Olympic Stadium’s multiple stages in Jamsil. A variety of ticket packages are available, from general admission to premium tickets including VVIP tables.

Three-day general admission tickets are KRW 220,000, while premium three-day tickets are KRW 300,000. Two-day tickets are KRW 200,000 and one-day tickets are KRW 120,000. VIP table service ranges from six people to eight people, and includes VIP seating and a bottle service, as well as VIP entry to the venue. To buy tickets or reserve a VVIP table check out the Ultra Music Festival website.

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Ultra Music Festival 2016 | June 10-12

website waterbombfestival.com

more info Seoul Soul Festival 2016 Facebook page or Website website www.southernstarent.com

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For the first time ever, the hottest R&B, soul and hip-hop artists are coming to Korea for the 2016 Seoul Soul Festival. Taking place at Jamsil’s Olympic Stadium on August 13-14, the festival plays host to Young Money, the hottest name in trap hip-hop Tyga, Grammy-nominated and much-loved singer Musiq Soulchild, Grammy-winning producer Robert Glasper, and Philly soul group The Stylistics. The latest additions to the line-up include Maxwell and BJ the Chicago Kid, with more artists to be announced later. Currently, the two-day Soul Early Bird tickets are on sale at Melon Tickets for just KRW 154,000. Once those sell out, Early Bird tickets will become available for KRW 188,000. After the early bird tickets, online tickets will be available for KRW 210,000 for two-day tickets and KRW 125,000 for one-day tickets.

On-site tickets will be available for KRW 232,000 for two-day tickets and KRW 143,000 for one-day tickets.

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Seoul Soul Festival 2016 | Aug. 13-14

The Film Festivalsof July

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

The animé and genre fests celebrate their 20th anniversaries Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos by The Seoul International Cartoon and Animation Festival and Bucheon International Film Festival

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s the infamous sweltering heat of Korean summer begins to arrive in July, two high profile film festivals are due to return, serving to keep cinema fans in the cool indoors and entertained with the latest in global cinema fare. The events - the Seoul International Cartoon and Animation Festival, and the Bucheon International Fantastic Film Festival - are quite different in scope and scale, yet offer something for everyone from the hardcore film aficionado to the casual cinema goer. Be sure to check the official websites for updates regarding film screenings and programs, as tickets tend to sell out fast!

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www.groovekorea.com June 2016

BiFan 2016 | Bucheon International Fantastic Film Festival 2016 Also celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, BiFan is Korea’s primary showcase for genre films from around the world. While many other festivals focus on the more art-house merits of filmmaking, BiFan joyously embraces and unashamedly revels in the conventions of horror, fantasy, action, sci-fi, and much, 2016 also much more. As with every year, BiFan organizes a mulbrings with it titude of programs to satisfy even the most casual cinenew management SICAF 2016 | Seoul International ma-goer. Selected international works will vie for prizes for the festival, Cartoon & Animation Festival 2016 in the Bucheon Choice competition, numerous genre titles as producer are to be screened in the World Fantastic Cinema showThis year marks SICAF’s 20th edition of celebrating carYong-bae Choi toon and animation films across the globe. This year, the assumes the role of case, and tributes are to be paid to greats in The Masters festival has changed location to the wonderfully stylised festival director program. As 2016 marks BiFan’s 20th edition, a greater number of special categories are to appear, as well as a Dongdaemun Design Plaza for its five-day run - a big for the next host of live outdoor events that will take place next to Buchange from the usual location in Myeongdong - and is three years cheon City Hall. This year also brings with it new manset to host screenings of feature and short animated films agement for the festival, as producer Yong-bae Choi assumes the role from professionals, students, and even children in a variety of proof festival director for the next three years. Mr. Choi has produced grams. As well as hosting the animated film festival, SICAF will also several notable Korean films including monster movie The Host and provide a number of special events for attendees. Aspiring artists will thriller 26 Years, among others. It will be of great interest to see Mr. undoubtedly take great delight in the exhibitions, educational experiChoi’s vision for BiFan and what he has in store for genre fans in this ences with professionals in the field, and tutorials on animation tools pivotal year. and software, while the whole family can enjoy taking pictures with the colorful characters and shopping at the market stalls.

Dates July 6-10 (5 days) Location Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) Transport Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station (Lines 2, 4 and 5) Website sicaf.org/eng/

Dates July 21-31 (10 days) Location Bucheon City - Bucheon City Hall, Korea Manhwa Museum, Bucheon Gymnasium, CGV Bucheon, CGV Sopoong, Lotte Cinema Bucheon Transport Bucheon City Hall (Line 7) Website www.bifan.kr/eng/

This is the place where you can experience Korean culture and get information about travelling in Seoul.

weekend DIY

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K-POP Dance Class

Haechi Hall event

HANBOK (Korean Traditional Costume)

Korean Painting class

Email seoulcenter3789@gmail.com

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Euljiro 1-ga Station

Website www.seoulculturalcenter.com (English support) Facebook www.facebook.com/Seoulcenter3789

Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center

10 min. walk

Opening Hours 10:30am - 7:30pm open everyday except New Year’s Day & Chuseok

Myeong-dong Theater

Tel 02.3789.7961

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5F

5 min. walk

5 min. walk

Address 5th FL, M-Plaza, 27 Myeong-dong 8-gil, Junggu, Seoul

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Myeong-dong Station

Three by

Girl power comes to K-film this June Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos by HanCinema

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Female Relationships

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www.groovekorea.com June 2016

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he month of June offers three very different cinematic offerings from the Korean film industry, yet they are all tied together by the exploration of female relationships. Director Park Chan-wook finally makes a welcome return to multiplexes with critically well-received drama The Handmaiden, gaining notoriety for the exquisite production values married to lesbian romance. Horror Stories 3, meanwhile, examines female relationships from a very different perspective, perhaps intending to provoke scares and chills in audiences. Rounding out the selection this month is The World of Us, a charismatic independent film exploring the fraught friendship between two 10-year old girls.

The Handmaiden

Did you know? The Handmaiden premiered In Competition at the Cannes Film Festival, marking the third time director Park Chan-wook has been invited to the highly prestigious event. He first arrived on the Croisette with Old Boy in 2004, followed by horror/ thriller Thirst in 2009.

Horror Stories 3 Release date June 2 Directed by Baek Seung-Bin, Kim Sun, Kim Gok, Min Kyu-Dong Starring Seulong, Kyung Soo-Jin, Park Jung-Min, Hong Eun-Hee Distributed by Lotte Entertainment

The omnibus series offers its third instalment with Horror Stories 3, and features four interwoven tales of suspense and fear from different time periods.In A Girl from Mars, a woman arrives on a distant planet and is forced to recount the horrific nature of her escape; Fox Valley is set during the Joseon era, where a scholar becomes trapped in a remote village occupied by mythical foxes in female form; contemporary tale Road Rage depicts a couple

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drama features a host of big stars, notably Kim Min-hee in arguably her highest profile role to date alongside A-lister Ha Jung-woo and prolific rising star Jo Jin-woong. Making her film debut is young actress/model Kim Tae-ri, who obtained the pickpocket role after competing in an audition process that involved around 1,500 other candidates.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Release date June 1 Directed by Park Chan-wook Starring Kim Min-hee, Ha Jung-woo, Kim Tae-ri,

Jo Jin-woong Distributed by CJ Entertainment

The Handmaiden is one of the most highly anticipated Korean films of 2016, marking the return of acclaimed auteur Park Chanwook to the cinema screens following his American debut film Stoker three years ago.

Adapted from the novel Fingersmith by Sarah Waters, The Handmaiden is relocated to 1930s Korea and Japan, depicting the story of a young heiress who inherits a vast fortune and the powerful men who attempt to swindle their way into claiming the wealth for themselves. Yet the heiress’ burgeoning lesbian relationship with a young pickpocket complicates matters greatly, resulting in a tale of sex, power, and intrigue. The period

being terrorised by a violent truck driver; and finally Ghost of Machine presents a futuristic story of artificial intelligence robots that goes horrifically wrong. The Horror Stories trilogy has served as a showcase for new emerging talent both in front of and behind the camera.

This entry is no exception as actors Seulong from K-pop band 2AM and Park Jung-min (Donju: The Portrait of a Poet) headline a host of other talent, seeking to cement their presence further in Korean cinema.

Did you know? Director Min Kyu-dong (All About My Wife, Memento Mori) is the only director to have contributed to each of the Horror Stories films, helming segments Beginning in HS1, 444 in HS2, and A Girl From Mars in HS3.

The World of Us

Did you know? Director Yoon Ga-eun’s previous film Sprout won the Crystal Bear for Best Short Film at the Berlin International Film Festival in 2014, and was also responsible for solidifying the presence of child actress Kim Soo-an (Memories of the Sword, Coin Locker Girl) in Korean cinema.

Film fans - remember to check The Korean Film Council (KOFIC) website regularly for updates on English subtitled screenings occurring in Seoul. www.koreanfilm.or.kr/jsp/schedule/subtitMovie.jsp

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

The World of Us depicts the story of 10-year old Sun, a youngster who finds it difficult to make friends and is something of an outcast at school. During one particular summer vacation however, Jia moves to the area and as Sun shows the newcomer around the neighborhood, the duo quickly become best friends and form an incredibly strong relationship. Yet when the new semester begins, their friendship is tested by the social dynamics within the classroom.

Director Yoon Ga-eun has crafted a reputation for creating wonderfully nuanced and

moving films involving children, exploring situations from their perspective and how such instances impact their formative years. The result is highly charismatic and engaging, as evidenced by director Yoon’s continual presence at international film festivals and the accolades she has received. The World of Us marks director Yoon’s feature length film debut, as well as presenting novice actresses Choi Soo-in and Seol In-hye in their first roles.

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Release date June Directed by Yoon Ga-eun Starring Choi Soo-In, Seol Hye-In, Lee Seo-Yeon Distributed by Finecut

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www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

D Space

Seoul’s hidden art movement Story by Ali Saleh Photos by D Space

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eside the Han River, across from ducers, and new talent within the Korean art the UN Village, neatly tucked community to gain exposure.” away in a small, enshrouded Although D Space is a smaller venue, alley in the middle of Han- housing smaller names and fewer viewers, its clandestine qualities do have their upsides. nam-dong, lies Project D Space. The small art gallery is veiled by an opaque glass door un- In a revealing admission that perhaps says something about the prevailing direction of der a sign for a pool hall. Its appearance is so the art community in Seoul, Bang stated that nondescript and commonplace that on most one of the venue's benefits was its non-comdays you can find young art-goers, phones in hand, eagerly probing the adjacent alleys in mercial approach. search of the entrance.

“Daerim and D Museum have received What makes the gallery so unique, for both criticism by the art community,” Bang said, artist and viewer, is the space itself. Originally “for being too popular, too conventional. Yes, acquired by the much larger Daelim Museum, they receive larger crowds and introduce art to young and new audiences— D Space was once a pool hall which is a good thing. But peofrequented by Dankook University students. According to the ple also want something new Since its opening, gallery's head curator Soyeon and original. D Space is a way to the museum has Bang, “It became abandoned compensate for those negatives.” been home to 26 when the university moved The current exhibit, NAM teams of creators away.”

Hyunbum: Look Good, howand artists for “During that time, Daelim a total of 27 shows ever, is an exception to the “alMuseum was looking for a new ternative” rule at D Space. Algallery space,” said Bang. “And though of Korean descent, Nam D Project Space was able to open its doors in Hyunbum is very well known in the internaNovember, 2012.” tional photography community. His work has Since its opening, the museum has been appeared in Vogue, Elle, and Grazia, as well home to 26 teams of creators and artists for a as a number of fashion department stores total of 27 shows. around the globe. Introduced by D Space Unlike the larger, more popular sister as Korea's first street fashion photographer, venues of Daelim and D Museum, D Space Nam has also been part of a cable television is committed to introducing not only newer program and is the author of at least two phoand more experimental artists, but Korean tography books. artists too. “We wanted a space to introduce Most artists have to enter a competition new and upcoming Korean artists,” Bang to get involved with the gallery. According to said. “Daerim and D Museum show interna- Nam, “The exhibition was never planned.”

“They had an opening and the curator contional projects. They're more popular and well tacted me and asked if I wanted to do someknown, so they can get bigger names. But we wanted something for new artists, new pro- thing with them. I liked the work here and

More Info Along with free entrance to the venue, D Space also holds free talks with the curator on select Thursdays and artist talks on select Saturdays. Additionally, there are internship opportunities that are accessible on the gallery's website. Future programs include graphic design publication Corners, photographers AMQ, and boat designers YCRAFTBOATS. Exhibits for 2016 will run through until the end of December.

Website www.daelimmuseum.org/ guseulmoa/eng/index.do

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

I was happy when they turned out well, but it took a lot of work and preparation.”

Aside from the greater themes of history, community, and the evolving present, the venue attempts, and succeeds, in creating a number of layers through its presentation of the work. Photos make their appearances on the walls, attached to the ceiling, and tilted between elevated platforms in the corners of the room. More photos find themselves clumsily stacked in the middle of the gallery beside a small, Bernini-turned-flower-vase glass bottle.

There's even a small room projecting a slideshow in two-fold fashion; one from the vantage point of a small opening protruding from the room's side, and another from within the actual room, housing both real photos and the digital images on its walls.

The revolving textures, greater themes, and insidiously simple demeanor of the venue culminate in an ultimately refreshing and whimsical experience. It may be worth going just to say you actually found the place, but there's more than enough substance on the inside to make the trip a priority.

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ty, furnishes one pool table, a glass case conagreed. It was mostly random.” cealing a few pool sticks, and a wooden billiard Despite his experience with a number of scoreboard. mediums in photography, this is Nam's first “The billiard table is an object that repgallery exhibition. resents the identity and history of the space,” “The most difficult aspect was the idea from the space,” he said. “It's not a simple gallery. We, said Bang. “It's an evolving space along with the Hannam area as a new artistic and culturthe curator and the team, had to consider the al district. Although we don’t mandate our artspecific character and history of the venue.”

Indeed, D Space makes a priority of incor- ists to use the billiard table, they mostly really enjoy working with it.” porating its roots into almost every Nam and the team weren't aspect of its exhibits. The remodThe pool table, timid when interacting with eled billiards sign on the outside enveloped by the gallery's props. The pool merely touches the surface of how a plate of glass, table, enveloped by a plate of far the venue pushes this concept. glass, enclosed the entire exThe interior, although mostly emp- enclosed the entire exhibit's archives hibit's archives of film and phoof film and tographs. photographs “We saw the table, the archives, and the billiard balls, and just put them all together. It seemed like a natural thing to do.” Nam said.

“Going along with the idea of history colliding with the present, I went out to different markets and bought about seventy different vintage frames for the photos.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

A great time

to visit Seoul’s MMCA

Multiple art genres & styles on display over the next few months Story by Seolhui Lee Photos Courtesy of MMCA and exhibiting artists

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uilt by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism in 2013, South Korea’s National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MMCA) Seoul branch is the ROK’s only national contemporary art museum. In January 2009, former president Lee Myungbak announced his plan to build the new Anguk location in the center of Seoul, and since its opening, all three national museum locations have been given unique mission statements and names. Due to its mountain location, MMCA Gwacheon’s exhibits are related to living art such as architecture, design, and handmade artifacts, MMCA Deoksugung’s palace location provides the perfect atmosphere for exhibiting historical modern art, and MMCA Seoul features various genres of both Korean and international contemporary art. In 2015, the Korean government appointed the first foreign MMCA director for all three locations, Bartomeu Mari, who had been working for seven years as the director of Museu d'A rt Contemporani de Barcelona (MACBA) in Spain. This summer, MMCA Seoul has three remarkable exhibitions (plus many more) from a diverse selection of international and Korean artists, each with their own unique style.

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www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Echo system: Gilles Barbier | April 13 to July 31, 2016 is French artist Gilles Barbier’s first solo exhibition in South Korea and was co-organized by the MMCA and French culture complex Friche la Belle de Mai to celebrate the 130th anniversary of diplomatic relations between France and Korea. Born in the Republic of Vanuatu in 1965, Barbier moved to Paris when he was 20 to study at Ecole des BeausArts (School of Fine Art). His interest in science and anatomy gives his art a strong focus on human beings and nature, which is very evident in Logorrhea (2009) and Banana Head (2010), two pieces currently on display at the MMCA,. His exhibition, including sketches of stars and planets, anatomical charts, and even pages from antique French encyclopedias, culminates in a deeper understanding of the motivation behind the artist’s creations. Barbier’s art is formed by his constant

Gilles Barbier, Still Man_Study, 2013

The Paranoid Zone, Installation view, Zone 1, 2016

MMCA Seoul one-day passes are just 4,000 KRW with lower prices available if you want to view only a certain exhibition. Museum hours are 10am - 6pm Tuesday through Sunday (closed on Monday), with free admission from 6 - 9pm on Wednesday and Saturday. Tickets can be purchased up to one hour before closing time. website wwww.mmca.go.kr Echo System Gilles Barbier, Installation view, 2016

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

The Paranoid Zone, Installation view, Zone 3, 2016

Many artists are currently collaborating with people working in different fields. MMCA Seoul focuses on this phenomenon through an exhibition called The Paranoid Zone (April 27 to July 17, 2016), a collaborative project by a group of mid-career artists in music, film, performance, stage design, and other areas. The exhibition is divided into four zones, each presenting a particular scene, with more than ten Korean artists contributing to the project including Se Jin Kim, Dalparan, Yong Seok Park, Young Hoon Oh, Suk Mu Yun, Young Gyu Jang, Jin Young Jang, Te Hyo Chung, and Eun Ji Cho. Visitors will have a very different experience here than at other contemporary art exhibitions due to an abundance of sounds and lighting displays uncharacteristic of the MMCA. In addition, MMCA Seoul has been offering multiple special performances since the exhibition opened, with more dates planned all the way through July. On June 18, there is jazz music from 4-5pm, a theater performance on June 29 from 7-8:30pm, and a special sound and dance performance on July 6 from 4-5pm. A full listing of performances is available online.

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Julius Popp, bit.fall pulse, Installation view, 2015

exhibit of the Korean Air Box Project series. Many large South Korean companies have begun supporting museums or artists, and Korean Air sponsors this project for contemporary artists with international standing who have “developed a unique vocabulary on the contemplation of the world.” Julius Popp studied at the Leipzig Academy of Visual Arts in Germany, and his work, which uses technology to reach across the boundaries of art and science, has been featured in prominent exhibitions throughout the world. Popp’s MMCA exhibition, bit.fall plus, is connected to the internet in real time to display popular words from internet news feeds through the use of hundreds of water droplets that fall from four large containers.

Through this imagery, bit.fall plus focuses on the way people and society consume information and the simultaneous modifications that take place outside words’ original meaning and value. Alongside Popp’s artwork, the exhibition also features a short film that documents the entire process of creating this specific version of bit.fall plus solely for the purpose of display at MMCA Seoul. This gives attendees a front-row seat to the entire creation process, from conceiving the design idea to modelling, fabricating, transporting, and even installation, as well as an interview with Julius Popp himself.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Korean Air Box Project: Julius Popp | November 10, 2015 to September 4, 2016 is the third

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research and study to form thoughts that he then reorganizes into art. He doesn’t hesitate to use diverse materials, even going so far as to use edible items like meat and bananas, a style that has been greeted with opportunities to exhibit his work at museums around the world. Altogether, the exhibit features 100 of Barbier’s sculptures, paintings, drawings and installations from the last 30 years, with some even being shown to the public for the first time.

S PO RT S Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com June 2016 44

Chasing Seoul Gaels are a team in the Holy Grail pursuit of greatness

Story by Patrick Hyland Photos by Christopher Saint Germain

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he Asian Gaelic Games (AGGs), October 2013, Kuala Lumpur. The heat and humidity was unforgiving on that second day, and our bodies had been pushed to the absolute limit.

Gathered in a huddle before the plate final, I found myself looking around to try and get the measure of my new teammates. I was still becoming acquainted with the ethos of the club, and the personalities of the men surrounding me, and I still felt as though I had a lot to prove having only joined two months previous. Rob Murphy commanded the center. The inspirational leader that he was, stared into our souls as he spoke with measured emotion. A rousing pre-game speech from a man who was about to play his last game for Seoul Gaels: expressing without recoil all that the club represented to him, what we as his teammates his brothers - meant to him, and what he was prepared to do in order to bow out victorious.

At that instant, I caught the eye of Sean Cummane standing across from me. A Seoul Gaels legend and an established senior player - a soft spoken, unassuming, passionate man stared back at me with tears in his eyes.

I'd been part of successful teams in the past, I'd experienced the intensity of senior championship football with my club O'Dempseys, and I'd represented my county, but this was a different animal, the likes of which I'd never before experienced. I wasn't expecting to find this level of intensity, and pure, raw emotion, in an expat club in South Korea, of all places. If before I was unsure as to the drive, motivation, and unity that existed

amongst these people, and the pride that they had in the club and the crest, I had absolutely no doubt now whatsoever. This group of men - this club - was special.

A defining moment is a point at which the essential nature or character of a person - or a group - is revealed or identified. This, undoubtedly, was one.

Fast forward a couple of years, and I find myself in my fourth season with Seoul Gaels, my third as captain. The excitement is starting to build once more as the next big tournament is only a matter of weeks away, the China Games in Beijing. This will be the second weekend of competitive action in our season to date, after the first round of the Korean League took place last month in Busan. The Korean League takes place over three weekends in summer, as Seoul, Daegu and Busan compete for silverware. As dominant as we have been in recent seasons on the peninsula, Daegu and Busan have been making strides and we never take anyone lightly.

That being said, the domestic competition is seen as simply an important rung in the ladder; a chance to build momentum and test things out en route to the AGGs. That goes for every tournament we take part in from now until then, including the China Games later this month, and the North Asian Gaelic Games (NAGGs) in Busan in July.

I'm not going to lie to you by saying that it's the taking part that counts. We have a goal in mind, and we have been preparing to reach that goal since last October, when we departed the field as defeated finalists for the second

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

in the final in their own back yard. No doubt they will be baying for blood this time around.

Championship football - there is nothing quite like it. I never could have imagined the journey that would unfold after standing in that huddle under the Malaysian sun, back in October of 2013. There have been highs and lows - blood, sweat, and tears - and eternal bonds formed since. Now we find ourselves scaling the mountain once more, and at the end of the month we will have a very good indication of where we are at, and in what areas we need to improve upon going forward. All in the hope of course, that we can go one step further in November, and achieve greatness with this special group of people.

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Facebook page www.facebook.com/seoul.gaels/ Contact pro@seoulgaelsgaa.com

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consecutive year at the AGG's. This year we hope the outcome will be different; third time lucky as that old saying goes.

But winning isn't everything, I hear you say. I agree. Real growth comes with the journey; the sacrifices made and the energy expended along the way, and that bond which forms between a group of people as a result.

This is a huge part of what's required in order to be successful, and I think that is part of the appeal of our club. Yes, we do cater to those who are I'd experienced interested in the social aspect the intensity of senior of the sport, but ultimatechampionship football ly, as in any sport, people with my club, and play because they want to I'd represented my compete. Real bonds aren't county, but this was formed while perched on a push for a starting place on a different animal. bar stool, they are formed on the team and improve the the pitch - deep in the trenchdynamics of the group - the es - in those backs-against-the-wall moments characters. Like the 6 ft 6 man mountain when character is revealed. Yes, winning isn't named Paul, a US Army Ranger who joined everything. But it has to be the goal. this year. In only our second training session, Preparations have been going pretty well, he knocked me into 2017 with a shoulder, and and intensity in training has been consistently followed it up by sticking out his paw and saybuilding. As an expat club, we welcome playing appreciatively, “Good hit, brother.” ers of all levels and sporting backgrounds, and That's what it's all about. it's truly inspiring to see complete beginners Having spent the harsh winter months on come in and immerse themselves in the sport, the tarmac and in the gym, it’s always excitand the culture of the club. It's interesting to ing for us to be able to lace up the boots, and train alongside the new blood, and although it don the green and black of Seoul Gaels once can be frustrating at times trying to navigate again. It holds extra significance for the China the difference in skill level, it's exciting at the Games this month, as we depart for Beijing as end of it all. You find yourself looking around defending champions. We emerged victorious for potential. Those players who may last year, overturning a strong Shanghai side

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Real growth comes with the journey; the sacrifices made and the energy expended along the way, and that bond which forms between a group of people as a result.

S PO RT S Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com June 2016 46

K-League lasts all summer long The title race will be at boiling point throughout the summer months Story by Liam Ring Photos by FC Seoul, Seoul E-land and FC Diablos

vails saw nothing in the wins column and the two established K-Classic clubs face the very real prospect of dropping into the lower tier.

These clubs might well pine for the days when the lower tier was barely a glint in an ambitious K-League official’s eye, with relative giants of the league such as Busan (a four-time K-League winner), Daegu and Daejeon having suffered relegation in recent seasons.

The K-Challenge division has seen a lot of citizen clubs developing both on and off the pitch; a great sign of development for the sport on the peninsula in general, but also a sign that so-called bigger clubs cannot guarantee a swift return to the top flight after a season of mis-management. This season has been very tight, with no side setting the

S PO RT S Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

In only its second competitive season, Seoul Eland has solved its tendency to concede an alarming number of goals but are finding hitting the back of the net an unexpected conundrum for a Martin Rennie side

pace consistently. Even Seoul Eland, with its relative wealth, ex-internationals and overseas coaching staff, has struggled to live up to its early season promise. In only its second competitive season, the club has solved its tendency to concede an alarming number of goals but are finding hitting the back of the net an unexpected conundrum for a Martin Rennie side. Lucky Eland fans have delicious craft beer to console themselves with then. But having a competitive second tier is essential for the sport’s development on the peninsula, and K-League chiefs will no doubt have considered the J-League’s now three-tier structure (the bottom division of which does include some major clubs’ under-23 sides) as a model, if not to emulate, at least to move towards. And for giants stuck in the lower divisions, things can’t get much better/worse than former J-League behemoth Tokyo Verdy - almost ten seasons in the J-League lower tier and now in real danger of dropping to tier three. Busan be warned.

While the Taeguk Warriors will face Spain and the Czech Republic in early June as the European nations tune up for the revamped (and bloated) 24-country European Championships, a lack of international training camps or scheduling means that clubs will play on without the significant worry of having to play weakened teams due to the Korean national team’s overseas exploits. With a championship race unlikely to degenerate into last year’s procession, K-League football lasts all summer long. Grab a ticket, buy a cold beer and maybe even some tteokbokki. It’s going to be a nail-biter.

FC Seoul home fixtures June 15 vs. Gwangju with a 7.30pm kick-off June 29 vs. Seongnam with a 7.30pm kick-off Seoul Eland home fixtures June 1 vs. Gyeongnam with an 8pm kick-off June 19 vs. Anyang with a 6pm kick-off June 25 vs. Busan with a 6pm kick-off June 29 vs. Gangwon with a 7pm kick-off

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Stadium a harbinger of other financial (sponsor-related) woes, has stuttered badly in early season with a spate of draws seeing Jung-won Seo’s charges well off the early pace. Failure to get things right soon might see Seo lose his job, particularly given Suwon’s failure to advance from the group stages of the ACL. And no; a victory in the first Suwon derby secured by a late own-goal won’t keep the critics at bay.

At the bottom of the table, it won’t come as too great a surprise to see new-boys Suwon FC already thinking about a relegation battle. That said, a number of creditable performances for the minnows have seen them just outside the relegation spots and not much worse off than their more illustrious cross-town neighbors.

Jeonnam Dragons’ one win in ten early doors combined with Incheon FC’s early season tra-

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ith K-League fixtures about to head to evening kickoffs to avoid the sweltering heat, the two sides expected to be battling it out at the top are doing just that. While title holders Jeonbuk Hyundai’s close-season transfer splurge meant it was almost inevitable that the Mad Green Boys would be near the top, success for FC Seoul was predicted with the typical proviso that the team shake off its usual sluggish start while still managing to juggle Asian Champions League (ACL) commitments. Shrugging off an opening 1-0 away loss to the defending champions, the capital club went on an undefeated streak that was only ended in early May by bogey club Pohang, while a successful Champions League campaign saw Seoul finish top of its group and secure a knock-out round fixture against Japanese side Urawa Red Diamonds. Any ACL side which can boast the goal-poaching talents of Adriano 10 goals in 6 matches - was always likely to go far. Also at the top of the scoring charts domestically, keeping him fit will be paramount for any Seoul success this season.

Perhaps a little more surprising was the early season success of Seongnam FC, a club which has struggled to live up to previous successes after no longer being bank-rolled by the Unification Church. Bought by the local government in 2014, Seongnam has surprised many by combining secure defensive organisation (up until a 2-3 defeat at the hands of FC Seoul) with the goal scoring of Brazilian Tiago Alvez and occasionally-maligned targetman Ui-jo Hwang. Hwang’s record of a goal every other game last season is being kept up thus far, and a continuation of this might just see Seongnam replace Suwon Bluewings as top dog in the south of the city, even if that success is somewhat mitigated by Suwon’s financial situation as much as by Seongnam’s success. The Bluewings, with questions over their continued tenancy of the Suwon World Cup

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

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t r a t S g n o r t S s r a e s B r e h t O s e v a Le p u h c t a pace C y l r a e g e h t n t Plar Syeoiul’s KBO teams as Doosan se o

sf e n u t r o f g n Varyi

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fter the KBO lost a number of star players to the American big league over the last two winters, there was a concern that the domestic league would suffer from a lack of quality and lower interest. However, despite the predictable obsession with every at-bat or pitch by a Korean in the MLB, the beginning of the 2016 Tire Bank KBO season has not fallen short in excitement, class and new stars stepping up to the plate together with the usual fun associated with Korean baseball.

Stories of the league struggling this year have proved premature, and Korean baseball is in rude health.

For the casual and hardcore fan, this year has seen two brand-spanking new stadiums to take your inflatable cheering sticks and chicken along too. Here in Seoul, Nexen Heroes have moved to the controversial Gocheok Dome next to Guil station on Line 1, and the team has responded well with a solid start that sees them floating around the play-off places despite losing star players. The stadium itself has some issues with some slightly ob-

Story by Luke Butcher Photos by Korea Baseball Organi zation and LG Twins

scured views in certain seats, but the biggest benefit is that the dome guarantees you won’t have to spend all day checking the weather.

The facilities are also a vast improvement on the Heroes’ previously shabby and run-down home in Mokdong.

If you fancy making a whole day of watching baseball, you can take a trip down to Daegu to watch the Samsung Lions play at the aptly named Lion’s Park. Not only will you be watching the baseball from the most modern

fighting out for title of home run king vacated

by Minnesota Twins’ Park Byung-ho, they are putting behind them a tough six months when THAT betting scandal hung over them.

The team Samsung is chasing down is the current champions Doosan Bears. After taking the Korean Series last year, the Bears’ relentlessness has seen the Jamsil co-residents winning two-thirds of their games and only losing one of their series battles so far to strugglers Lotte Giants. They have been led by six-

Varying fortunes for Seoul’s KBO teams as Doosan set the early pace

The only bright spot for LG has been Luis Jimenez, who at one point held a sizeable lead in the home run race and had more home runs than some of the struggling teams’ entire lineups. stadium in Korea, but from now will be the perfect time to go and watch Samsung if you are a Lion’s fan. After their normal sluggish start that saw them stuck down in the lower reaches of the standings, they have finally begun their yearly ascent towards the top.

Driven on by slugger Choi Hyung-woo, who has already passed 10 home runs and will be

year KBO veteran Dustin Nippert, who leads the pitching stats in wins and strikeouts and sits on a near perfect record. He has been joined by Michael Bowden, another American pitcher signed this winter, who has hit the ground running and finally given Nippert the partner he needs. On the hitting side, the loss of fan favourite Kim Hyun-soo to the Bal-

predicted. The Twins started fairly quickly, but have since regressed back to their average from last year. The only bright spot for LG has been Luis Jimenez, who at one point held a sizeable lead in the home run race and had more home runs than some of the struggling teams’ entire lineups.

Meanwhile, the SK Wyverns, who play just outside Seoul in neighbouring Incheon, have started in a much stronger fashion and look a decent bet to sneak into the postseason shake-up. Jeong Eui-yoon, who was traded to the Wyverns from the LG Twins after never really getting going in his career, has caught fire this season and is leading the runs scored table. He joins a growing rank of players traded away by the Twins who have gone on the post huge numbers, frustrating LG’s large Seoul following.

But if we are talking frustrated fans, that award has to go to those of the long-suffering Hanhwa Eagles. After finally showing some improvement last season under the stewardship of old hand Kim Seung-kun, the start of this season has been nothing short of a total

farce for the team from Daejeon. The team has the highest combined salary in the league but is cut far adrift in last place, at one stage allowing 56 runs in only five games against the two Jamsil occupants. Pathetic pitching, bizarre pitcher selections, comic fielding and poor batting has been brought together in a nightmarish concoction to leave the team not even breaking into the double digits in wins after 35 games. To put that in context, the leaders at that point had 24 wins.

The Eagles will be hoping to catch up with the rest as the season goes on and as the pack hunt down the reigning champions. With over 100 games left to go, there is no shortage of opportunities to catch some baseball as both the weather and the competition heats up into June and July. Don’t miss out on what is looking to be a close mid-season and an exciting finish to a league attracting a more committed fan base with every swing and pitch.

Check out www.mykbo.net for the latest on the KBO season

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timore Orioles has been salved by the emergence of Kim Jae-hwan and Oh Jae-il as serious sluggers with career best stats.

But the Bears are unlikely to have it all their own way,with pre-season favourites NC Dinos from down south in Masan hitting form over the past few weeks. Led on the mound by Eric Hacker, who sports his signature beard shared by fellow NC batting ace Eric Thames, the Dino’s recovery from a slow start has put the club ahead of the chasing pack. They have a terrifying combo in the batting order, with four of the leading hitters from last year in a lineup that is beginning to post some astronomical numbers. They nabbed practical joke loving (and more importantly big hitting) third baseman Park Seok-min from Samsung Lions in the winter and he has joined Thames, Na Sung-bum and Lee Ho-jun in a lineup that will undoubtedly lead the team to the playoffs this year, and possibly to the title.

Here in Seoul, the remaining two teams have had very different fortunes. LG Twins, who also occupy Jamsil Stadium, are struggling down in the lower half as many fans

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

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After taking the Korean Series last year, the Bears have been relentless at the start of this season, winning two-thirds of their games

kong project

A Yearlong Journey from Seed to Sauce Stage 3: Fermentation

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Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Story by Jordan Redmond Photos by James Thole, Anna Jo, and Jordan Redmond

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hat comes to mind when you think of fermentation? Most people will think of the delicious results: cheese, beer, and increasingly, kimchi. Maybe the minds of some will leap to the process of ingredients undergoing almost miraculous transmutation. While the former thought is certainly the more mouth-watering, it's only the end-point, lacking in context similar to seeing just the result of a game. To appreciate fermentation, we should think of the things we can't really perceive but are happening nonetheless, a lot like how change occurs throughout our lives and then presents itself to us one day while standing in front of the mirror.

After our October harvest and the cathartic shelling that followed, it was finally time to make meju or the loaves of boiled soybeans that would literally become the building blocks for our doenjang and kanjang. A full six months after putting the seeds in the ground, the fermentation process could finally begin.

To make meju, we had to soak the soybeans

James' sacrifice set the stage for us to gather fully rested at Byungsoo Kim's mother-inlaw's house on a grey Saturday at the end of November. Those of us who chose to make the meju on site arrived to a still steaming pile of soybeans which gave off an almost peanut-like nuttiness.

It was our job to mash them into a paste and then form them into sturdy rectangular bricks. We would take a large scoop, wrap them in old bedsheets and walk on them similar to what French winemakers did to grapes in the past. It was a fun tactile process that made us all broadcast silly grins, the warm beans underfoot becoming ever mushier. The children on site also helped form the blocks with their zeal and tireless limbs. Afterward the mashing, we crafted blocks of comically varying exactitudes of rectangular shape. We signed our names on them and would leave them to ferment for nearly 6 weeks, at first in a warm, humid storeroom and then to dry in the brisk winter air.

After the meju had dried, we would all con-

overnight and then boil them for several hours. Due to the time intensive process, our indelible project leader, James Thole, stayed over and did the "dirty" work. However, in hindsight, there are worse things than sleeping in a tent overnight on Hansol Farms on a cool November night, and it is perhaps my largest regret of the project that I didn't help out with that stage.

vene for the final time, again at Byungsoo's gracious mother-in-laws, where she would teach us how to begin the wet fermentation of the meju in the traditional Korean pots called hangari. To purify our pots, she insisted we burn byeot jib or rice straw in the pot and to use charcoal to filter impurities while the doenjang and kanjang were separating. Folks also followed her lead and added a couple

large dried red peppers and jujubes into the saline water covering our meju.

After having received her guidance, it would be up to us to pot the meju at our own places of residence. In my case, my fiance and I did it in the back of the car park of my seven-floor apartment building. A bit like naughty children, we lit the fire and placed the hangari in a place where we hoped my building owner wouldn't notice. Occasionally we would check on it and wonder if we weren't doing something horribly wrong. Did we add enough water? Is that good mold or bad mold?

Did I just waste several months of my life?

In-between the time of setting the final fermentation process into motion and the writing of this series, I found a new job, got officially engaged (aka Korean parental approval), and relocated to a new apartment across the northern part of the city. Lots of change at once, so much that we forgot the hangari in the move. In fact, we were so busy getting our bearings, cleaning suspect surfaces, and putting together IKEA furniture that it took a few weeks to retrieve the hangari. There was always the refrain, "Ahhhh...it'll be alright."

Yet when we finally visited the old neighborhood, we shared a rush of anxious uncertainty. Approaching the building, would my tempestuous owner have tossed it? Ultimately, the hangari was there, unmoved as a pot of fermenting soybeans always would be. As I lifted the cumbersome pot, a voice called out, "Oh, so that's your pot?". It was the kindly restaurant owner from next door. Apparently my old building's owner had accused him of having left it there.

He was pleased and more than a little amused to find out it belonged to someone, nonethe-

To appreciate fermentation, we should think of the things we can't really perceive but are happening nonetheless, a lot like how change occurs throughout our lives and then presents itself to us one day while standing in front of the mirror.

Story & Photo by Jordan Redmond

Restaurant Buzz Fantastic Pho, French Food, and Flapjacks

Pho Chi Minh Jongro-gu, Jongro 3-gil, D-Tower, 5F 02-2251-8520 L'Empeinte Mapo-gu, Yeonnam-dong, 260-15 02-3144-2501

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Uncle Sam's Yongsan-gu, 47 Hoenamu-ro 02-792-7745

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less a lanky waygook. After taking it across town in a taxi, the relief upon placing the pot on the veranda and opening the lid was as palpable as the smell that came sweeping out from under the lid. Not simply of fermenting soy, the smell was one of relief at the knowledge that some things proceed as they should without your even trying.

The Kong Project, a year-long effort to take soybeans from seed to sauce, was as much about embracing change as it was about learning patience and trust. During the year, so many things in my life went from one extreme to another. Working nights to working days. Living alone to living with my fiance.

My future being unfastened to it being tied to someone else indelibly. Throughout it all, I learned to trust the process and you can end up with your just rewards, whether that be doenjang or the life that you want.

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

oted restaurateur and all-around food dude, David Chang, recently proclaimed pho to be "the future of noodles in America". It's safe to say the newly-opened Pho Chi Minh is the future of pho in Seoul. From its post in Gwanghwamun's D-Tower, Pho Chi Minh serves unapologetic pho at very reasonable prices.

The star of the show is the pho satĂŠ, a powerful punch of sour and spicy. Make sure to gorge on the cha giao as well, diets be damned.

With the opening of L'Empreinte, the area of Yeonnam-dong just outside of Hongdae exit 3 has become quite the locale for affordable French food made by French people. In addition to Restaurant Buzz Seoul’s darling, L'impasse 81, L'Empreinte is properly representing le tricolor with a lamb-centered menu and an assortment of French classics such as steak frites and duck a l'orange sure to tickle your French fancy. Because there can never be too many pancakes, Uncle Sam's is your destination for American-style breakfast up the Gyeongridan hill. In addition to the flapjacks, all your friends are there: waffles, bacon, eggs, sausage, and even a properly cheap cup of joe. Also, a 7am opening time will bring a nostalgic tear to those missing breakfast served during actual breakfast hours.

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Review

Sprout takes root in

seoul’s growing health food market A new vegan take-out & delivery service opens this month in HBC

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Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Story by Rob Shelley Photos by Robert Evans

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taying healthy in not always easy in this city of ours. With its hustle and bustle, long commutes, and congested public spaces, Seoulites can find healthy living a challenge. So, imagine being able to open your fridge door and find an entire week’s worth of healthy meals already cooked and packed for you? That’s the service Sprout provides.

A new healthy and holistic food market is growing in Seoul these days and Sprout is helping this budding trend take root. Led by a holistic nutritionist, Sprout is a whole food, plant based, vegan take-out service. They specialize in offering delicious, healthy, and convenient meals to take home or have delivered to your door. Their rotating menu consists of international dishes like Falafel Bowl with Garlic Tahini Sauce, Burrito Three

fill them up with her delicious, vegan, whole Bean Medley Salad with Red Wine Vinaifood meals. From there it just kept growing grette, and Quinoa Buddha Bowl with Sesand spreading by word-of-mouth. ame Ginger Sauce. Desserts include dishes Sprout had no idea that things would like Raw Coconut Almond Fudge and Lemgrow so quickly. “I don’t on Blueberry Cheesecake. know what I expected if I’m And breakfasts include Led by a holistic honest. I never thought about things like Dark Chocolate nutritionist, Sprout it getting big or opening new Millet Breakfast Bowl with is a whole food, plant locations. It has definitely exShredded Coconut. based, vegan take-out ceeded my expectations!”

Sprout started almost service.

They specialize by accident. The team’s But prepping meals for in offering delicious, nutritionist offers occaan ever-growing client list healthy, and convenient has its challenges. “We have sional detox programs and meals to take home to cut a lot of vegetables! nutritional consultation, or have delivered to There are countless hours of and her clients often want your door. prep time involved in makhelp with meal ideas and preparation. Soon enough, ing Sprout food. I guess it’s her detoxing clientele were coming to the not surprising that I got a new knife set and door with Tupperware containers looking to cutting boards for Christmas this year!”

I feel like e where c a a l r p e a s t s a i u t r a n you go f or one meal. Sprout is about eating healthy e very day.

il kta Coc he Of T h t Mon

Because of its rapid growth, Sprout is now moving from their domestic location to a storefront in HBC this month, on the heels of last month’s successful pop-up event at Pick-a-Bagel/Bruworks.

Although some food will be available to eat on-site, Sprout will stay true to its roots. “Our new location will mean that some meals can be enjoyed on the spot but I think our main focus will remain on the take home, delivery and meal plan options. I feel like a restaurant is a place where you go for one meal. Sprout is about eating healthy every day.”

More Info Sprout offers pre-packed home-cooked meals, breakfasts, and desserts ranging from KRW 5,000-8,000. They also offer 5-day and 7-day meals plans which include a breakfast, lunch, dinner, and dessert for each day at a discounted price. Delivery is also available.

ADDRESS Yongsandong 2ga,1-54, Yongsangu,Seoul Directions Walk up HBC till you get to Woori Super. Turn left and go all the way up the hill till you get to the ogeri. At Tous Les Jours turn left again and the shop is about halfway down... before the church.

Alternatively, you can take the #2 town bus (green bus) in HBC all the way up to the ogeri. It stops at tous les jours. Get off there.

Hours Sundays and Mondays from 6-8pm Delivery www.nutritionmission.ca/order-meals/ Contact www.facebook.com/groups/sproutseoul/

1 oz. Buffalo Trace Bourbon 0.75 oz. Peach Liqueur 0.75 oz. Fresh Lemon Juice 0.75 oz. Rich Brown Sugar Syrup Top with Lipton Yellow Label Tea Lemon Wheel (for garnish) Served in a 16 oz. Mason Jar

The perfect rooftop drink to “tea” off your weekend. The Just Peachy will quench your thirst and keep you cool while the heat tries to wear you down. Inspired by the refreshing Arnold Palmer Beverage, the Just Peachy is a spiked, peachy flavored tea suited for the new season.

Cheers to summer!

Southside Parlor will be introducing Summer Signature cocktails like the Just Peachy during the summer months. Stop by their Itaewon location or check their Facebook page to learn more.

With summer just around the corner, who knows what new flavors will be introduced in

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Photo and cocktail by Bobby Kim

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A cool, spiked tea inspired by the Arnold Palmer

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

“One time we tried a Tandoori dish that ended up being a complete failure and we had to throw away over 30 dishes. Visually, it looked like, well, horse manure. My boyfriend joked that maybe if you ate it with your eyes closed or even [in] a darkly lit room it might be ok, but in the end it just wasn’t up to Sprout standards and we had to throw it all away. We now use Tandoori as a verb—such as ‘omg you tandoori’d that’ or you ‘pulled a tandoori.’

If something is minor we’ll say, ‘well at least it’s not a full tandoori.’”

Overall, however, Sprout’s meals and desserts have been a huge success. There’s lots of customer responses that insist Sprout has helped change their lives by making them feel better, lose weight, and save time. It’s not just vegans; most of Sprouts customers are non-vegans while many others aren’t even vegetarians. The food just tastes good. Sprout thinks that a focus on a healthy, ethical, nutritious diet is a growing trend in Seoul.

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Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

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2016

by Groove Food & Drink

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runch is the zeitgeisty meal that looks to have nestled into our lives for good--it’s permeated this part of the world, too. If it’s a reaction to the uptick in the hours of human toiling, the increasing inability to disconnect and unplug, then brunch away, urban warriors. If sleeping til noon on a Sunday and rolling out of bed to meet friends for a fruit juice cocktail and a giant plate of photogenic food is how people like to unwind these days, we say alright. We say feast on. There are certainly worse ways to spend a precious day off.

Brunch is more than a meal combo: it’s a weekend celebration, it’s a pleasurable, luxurious pause between the start of one week and the beginning of another.

Here, weary Seoulite, we invite you to explore your options by compiling the best brunches Seoul has to offer. Brunch on the go, brunch like a European, a Midwestern American or keep it on the healthy side. For everyone needing more weekends in their life, this one’s for you.

Story by Yoo Jin Oh Photos by Chris St. Germain

add Seoul, Jongno-gu, Samsung Jong-Ro Tower, D 4F tel 02-2251-8404

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Upscale bistro brunch in an ultramodern setting

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

BEST!

as its counterpart with tea-smoked salmon, poached egg, avocado, kale and fresh tangy tomato salsa. Neither overtly creative nor complex, the dishes are carefully prepared and plated to bring the most out of each ingredient’s natural flavors and it definitely works! The meals are superb and memorable as a somewhat healthy indulgence that’s worth the higher-cost.

For lighter fare, try Bill’s chia seed yogurt pot (KRW 8,000) and freshly baked coconut bread (KRW 5,000) as well as beautifully arranged pastries, muffins and cakes.

They also serve Bloody Mary (KRW 10,000) and Bellini (KRW 12,000), the latter of which has not become brunch staple in Seoul just yet.

If you still have space left for beverages, their juices and smoothies are also terrific: from a Pineapple Kale Smoothie (KRW 8,800) to Bills’ Raw – nutty rich smoothie made with homemade almond milk and banana. To cap it all off, the Anthracite houseblend coffee or the Masala Chai Tea are great palette cleanser to be enjoyed sitting back in Bill’s’ gorgeous green chairs.

Reservations are only available for dinner (after 5PM) for a party of three or more, so make sure to come a little early to avoid the queue for brunch.

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ill’s, an Australian Casual Dining Restaurant, recently opened its second branch in D-Tower in Gwanghwamun offers fantastic brunch and lunch options for those on the upper side of the Han River. A modern, light-filled space with incredibly high ceilings lends Bill’s a cosmopolitan atmosphere. Put that together with a stylish brunch menu and it’s no surprise that Bill’s attracts long queues of eager diners on weekends and weekdays alike.

Their extensive breakfast menu, available from 8:00 AM to 11:00AM, includes a wide range from organic scrambled eggs on sourdough toast to a full Aussie fry-up.

The most popular dish is the Ricotta Cheese Pancake (KRW 19,800). These are much thicker than typical pancakes but still fluffy as the batter is prepared only on order to ensure the best rise. The ricotta pancakes, which contains no added sugar, are beautifully paired with fresh banana, honeycomb butter and maple syrup.

For a more classic approach, the Full Aussie (KRW 21,000) is an excellent choice.

Soft scrambled eggs are served with cumin tomato, bacon and fennel sausage. The Fresh Aussie (KRW 22,000) is as excellent

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

BEST!

Brera offers brunch All’italiana

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www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Story by Andy Hume Photos by Bryan Watkins

ADDRESS Jung-gu Dason-ro 41 Tel 02-2236-0770 Hours 11am - last orders at 10pm, Tuesday - Sunday

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ost brunches in the city follow the standard playbook of Eggs Benedict, sandwiches and overpriced salads, but at Italian restaurant Brera, near Beotigogae station on Seoul subway line 6, they do things a little differently. Although their focus remains firmly on pasta and pizza, they also offer an everyday brunch menu to help you ease yourself gently into these warm summer days.

The Brera Breakfast, humorously subtitled the “Italian hotel experience”, is a showstopper - three thick slices of excellent country-style bread served with homemade strawberry jam and, unusual in Korea, fresh butter, gleaming white in its little dish. The centerpiece of the breakfast is a miraculously light, airy calzone stuffed with your choice of hot fillings; on the day Groove visited, a mix of apple, strawberry and mozzarella cheese spilled out onto the plate. Savory options are also available. Also included in the KRW 14,900 price is a coffee and a glass of freshly made lemonade, which comes unsweetened by default, so be sure to ask for some sugar if you prefer it a little sweeter.

Huevos rotos, literally “broken eggs”, is altogether more rustic. A Spanish-inspired bowl of sautéed potatoes and sunny-side up fried eggs, it’s made Italian by a generous topping of

prosciutto. About as simple as a brunch dish can be, it’s deeply satisfying and very filling.

You could easily make this at home, but the prosciutto alone would eat up a large chunk of the KRW 17,800 it costs to order it at Brera.

With appetizers like mixed bruschetta with cherry tomatoes, mushrooms and homemade Italian sausage, as well as the excellent coffee and homemade desserts on offer, Brera makes a great spot for brunch, especially if you feel like indulging in a cheeky glass (or bottle) of wine to go with it. Owner Giovanni Tamburrini explains that while the brunch concept is barely known in Italy, he put the items on his menu due to popular demand from local residents. We’re glad he did, because it gives us an excuse to go to Brera before lunchtime and get a good meal before retiring for a mediterranean midday rest. For more of Andy’s food writing, visit his blog SojuSunrise.com

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Story by Diana Weber Photos by Kaegan Saenz

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Decadent and surprising pastries await in Apgujeong

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ADDRESS Gangnam-gu, Apgujeong-ro 10-gil, 34 Tel 02-547-2004 website www.mrholmesbakehouse.com

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ne thing Seoul has no shortage of is baked goods. Whether it’s the ubiquitous chains or the small shops on the corner selling pastries laced with garlic, a bakery is never more than a few blocks away. For days when no ordinary pastry will do, head to Apgujeong and go to Mr. Holmes Bakehouse for a true culinary treat.

Mr. Holmes Bakehouse started in California and has made its way to Seoul. The Apgujeong location features a neon lit sign that proclaims: “I left my cruffin in San Francisco.” It’s difficult to miss.

One of the most aesthetically pleasing items- the brioche donut- comes in a handful of flavors, most noteworthy being vanilla and raspberry. The flavored cream oozes out of a pastry with the texture of a glazed donut. The sweetness comes from both the outer layer which is coated in thick sugar granules and the cream. The cream has just enough flavor to not be overwhelming, with the vanilla having a sweet- and strangely addicting- after taste and the raspberry having actual bits of the fruit inside.

The sticky bun with salted caramel drips, literally, with sweetness; break open the dessert to see that it is soaked through with syrup. This one was beyond anything I’d ever tasted and what made it truly unique was the bottom of the dessert: it had the hardness of a candy apple with that same shiny, thickened sugar.

For the sugar-averse, the savory danish is the best bet. Mr. Holmes has two options: onion or onion and potato. The outside is a flaky (use a napkin!) and the inside is filled with one of the two aforementioned options.

The only item missing the mark was the ube puff with prickly pear glaze. It’s a beautiful pastry with a striking pink icing, but I found the icing too sweet and the inside too bland. It was a tad disappointing considering how nice the outside looked but, alas, you cannot always judge a pastry by its cover.

Coffee and dessert culture reigns huge in Seoul and Mr. Holmes Bakehouse is definitely a place to go to become a part of it. The crumbly, sweet, and flakey desserts- as well as the selection of different beverages- are all incredibly high quality and delicious. So head on over and be able to proudly proclaim what their box famously states: “I got baked in Seoul.”

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Seriously indulgent fare for fierce appetites

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Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

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Story and photos by Michael Hanrahan

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runch can be filling, satisfying, restorative, and in the best case it’s all of those things; but brunch is rarely transcendent. Brunch doesn’t make you text your friends, telling them you had the best meal of your life. Today it can be. Go to Guilty Pleasure and order the Bourbon French Toast with homemade bacon maple syrup and caramelized bananas. Fit a bit of everything onto the fork, bite in, and let sweet and savory mix in your mouth. Emit a low moan. Field side-eye from the next table but pay no mind because, damn, this is amazing brunch.

The scrambled eggs aren’t just scrambled eggs: they’re cooked with truffle oil, placed on a toasted baguette, and topped with duck and aged prosciutto. Each bite is eyeball-rolling levels of good from start to finish.

Sang, the owner, really talks up the mac and cheese and it’s worth it to mind his advice.

The aged cheddar bursts with sharp and savory flavours, and the pulled pork (oh yeah, there’s pulled pork in it) completely cuts through the cheesiness while adding to the overall, perfectly deep flavor and texture. Then for good measure, particularly if you’re wearing elastic, order dessert and get flambé with rum, bananas, ice cream and chocolate, or you can get a beignet (KRW 5,000). Wash it all down with a mimosa (KRW 12,000), or coffee or tea (KRW 4,000).

Guilty Pleasure checks another key brunch spot criterium by looking cool. Neon signs illuminate the walls, the bar is gorgeous and stocked, and the overall vibe will transport you to a secret Manhattan bar. The back patio is the ideal place to spend a weekend afternoon drinking and eating for hours.

While the restaurant is not necessarily a “budget-conscious” brunch option, when compared with the other spots in this price range, Guilty Pleasure's high quality puts it in a league of it’s own.

Address 1F, 2-10 Itaewon-ro 20-gil, Yongsan-gu, Seoul tel 02-794-4332

The scrambled eggs aren’t just scrambled eggs. They’re cooked with truffle oil, placed on a toasted baguette, and topped with duck and ham prosciutto, which they let age for 10 days.

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berry, walnut raisin and honey pecan are much more popular with Korean diners, but the savory toppings like lox are catching on.

While we’re on the fishy subject, let’s talk about this lox. Pick A Bagel’s lox is exemplary, the finest smoked fish a bagel could hope to embrace. Sourced from Salmone House, a Korean smoking company, this lox is downright buttery, perfectly lined with fatty white stripes. Wan pink fish from Costco this is not.

The lox inclined should go for “the works” known at Pick A Bagel as the signature set: bagel of your choice with plain cream cheese, lox, tomato, raw red onion and a small handful of capers. It’s a steal at KRW 5,000.

Bagel neophytes stumped on selection can try the New York Sampler of six bagels and six cream cheeses for KRW 22,000.

Pair the bagel of your choice with coffee, juice or soda. Or be real Sex and the City-era New York about it and get a SNAPPLE. Killer throwback Americana.

Address 11 Nonhyeon-ro 175-gil, Gangnamgu, Seoul tel 02.518.1008 website www.pickabagelnyc.co.kr

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Story by Charlotte Hammond Photos by Hannah Green

bagel and schmear (that’s Yiddish/ NewYawkese for spread) is, in many ways, the anti-brunch. It’s simple, it’s suited for take-away, it’s glutty and inelegant, pairs better with a coffee, a newspaper, and solitude than late morning gossip and cocktails. And yet. A bagel and schmear is lunch. Or breakfast. Or both. A bagel sandwich tends to glue up the intestines in a way that enables meal skipping and combining.

In the past year New York franchise Pick A Bagel bestowed Seoul and its gluten-eaters with proper fresh-baked bagels and an assortment of savory and sweet spreadables. Though Pick A Bagel has held pop-ups in Itaewon and elsewhere, a small stool-room-only location in Apgujeong anchors the bagel house. Those in the know will recognize the green and white swirl of scallion cream cheese alongside a greener mountain of veggie cream cheese.

The majestic range is completed by the soft glow of lox cream cheese, the color of faded Bermuda shorts. Pick A Bagel’s deli case is a sight for any seasoned schmear fan to behold. Co-owner Bill Choi points out that their sweeter cream cheeses in flavors like straw-

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Pick A Bagel

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Beloved American diner chain open in Itaewon

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Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

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Story and photos by Michael Hanrahan

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he humble diner is one of the cornerstones of American life but attempts to replicate the model in Korea have met mixed success. So there was much excitement at the turn of the year when Original Pancake House opened their second city location on the main road in Itaewon.

The Oregon-based chain has been serving up pancakes, waffles and eggs for well over six decades, and now brings a taste of home to hungry foreigners and curious locals alike, seven days a week starting at 8 a.m.

Original Pancake House really does look like a diner, replete with 50s retro stylings right down to the checkerboard tiles on the floor. There’s a huge menu with dozens of variations on pancakes, omelettes, breakfast classics and more, as well as a chicken and waffle plate unique to the Itaewon branch.

Service is brisk and friendly and since you’re in Seoul you won’t even have to leave 15 percent for the tip, which is probably for the best given that prices are on the high side. Adult-sized pancake portions are around KRW 15,000, omelets will run you around KRW 18,000, and other dishes are similarly priced. If those prices give you sticker shock, though, rest assured that Original Pancake House nonetheless offers some of

the best value brunch food in Seoul, because their portions are huge.

Pancakes come to the table in a suitably large stack; served with strawberry and banana, for instance, the serving of fruit is generous enough to float a guise of healthy eating while drowning your id in syrup. The omelets look like they’ve been made with an entire carton of eggs, easily enough to feed two people; what they lack in finesse they make up for with sheer scale. A potato hash with bacon and jalapeno is gloriously cheesy with just a little spicy kick to it, perfect for shaking off a Sunday morning hangover, especially when paired with the bottomless refill Americano for KRW 4,000.

Given that most of these savory dishes come with a complimentary side order of pancakes, which can be upgraded with your choice of toppings for a small extra charge, even the largest of appetites is likely to leave here stuffed. It may not be very fancy, and some people may find the fare a bit heavy; but for rice-weary American folks in particular, Original Pancake House is as close as you’re likely to come to a taste of home.

Address Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-ro 153 Tel 02-795-7481 time 8am - 10pm Monday - Thursday (last order 9pm), 8 - midnight Friday - Sunday

The atmosphere and food will feel familiar for those used to laidback brunches in American college towns. Pretense is virtually non-existent and there is a focus on taking the edge off last night.

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Guilt-free Greens and Smoothies at the Royal Food &Drink

cism of the Royal's main dishes, it is that perhaps that they go heavy on the salad greens thus making many of the items seem fairly similar.

Hearing the hair of the dog? Plump for the Royal's mean Bloody Mary, requisitely spicy and acidic. Their pineapple margarita also packs the right kind of zing. If the idea of more booze doesn't seem like a plan, the Royal has an interesting beet banana smoothie which is, true story, really quite smooth. In fact, the whole dining experience here aims not to cause any unpleasant ripples in one's reality and definitely to reduce the ripples of one's belly.

Address Yongsan-gu, Huam-dong, 406-58 Tel 070-7774-4168

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

ly non-existent and there is a focus on taking the edge off last night. Plates at the Royal are very green. Not coincidentally, their Green Breakfast (KRW 10,000) helps you peel away some of the regret over that 3am kebab. True to its name, the plate is properly verdant: mushrooms with pesto, ample avocado, and other veggies on a bed of salad greens blessed by a runny egg on top. On the other hand, the Worker's Breakfast (KRW 12,000) is meaty without being overly greasy. Bacon, sausage, and scrambled eggs mingle, again, with salad greens and sauteed veggies. It's a healthier take on the classic English fry-up.

The star dish here is the Guacamole Breakfast (KRW 9,000). Simple but satisfying, it's a bagel overloaded with guacamole, one over-easy egg, bacon, and cheese. Something that could perhaps make at home but not with last night weighing on your shoulders. Another standout is the grilled salmon salad (KRW 15,000). A very well-cooked salmon filet mingles with pomegranate, avocado, and a smattering of quinoa on, again, more greens, with ever-loving lime slices. If there is one main criti-

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ontrary to popular belief, brunch need not be a guilt-laden gut-bomb.

If you're of a similar mindset, you're in luck: The Royal Food and Drink has decreed brunch to be a healthy meal but not one bereft of decent alcoholic beverages. Perched up on the slopes of Namsan in Huam-dong, The Royal was opened earlier this year by Patrick Walsh and Bomi Jung, formerly of HBC's DeEspresso Room, and it has quickly become a real neighborhood hotspot for allday brunch, Tuesday through Sunday.

This reviewer schlepped in at the tailend of the all-day brunch rush, around 5pm, to find an industrial chic interior lit comfortably by natural light. A disaffected model-type reluctantly removed her feet from my chair and sighed the sigh of several gin-tonics. Service at the Royal, in contrast, is friendly and welcoming, and throughout the meal there was a relaxed vibe around the place: friends of the owners popping by, the resident dog charmingly begging for some charity, and another dude dropping in with his own pup.

The atmosphere and food will feel familiar for those used to laidback brunches in American college towns. Pretense is virtual-

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

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Story by Jordan Redmond Photos by Lorenzo Corti

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Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

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We’re bringing back the best of Craftworks from [the early days] and adding a new experience on the menu side. We’re looking for improved quality and consistency - Managing Director Kent Davy

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Craftworks’ Brunch: Reborn, Revamped, Revisited Story by Rob Shelley Photos by Hannah Green

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alk to anyone in the Korean craft beer business and they’ll tell you that everyone owes a debt of gratitude to Craftworks Namsan, myself included.

Back in 2012, I invited some friends to join me for brunch at a hip new Western place: Craftworks Taphouse and Bistro. I was living in Daechi and my friends were coming up from Wonju, so neither of us had access to decent beer or brunch. That might seem strange in 2016, but 2012 was a different time.

Craftworks more than impressed: it was the beginning of a love affair with craft beer. About six months later, I started writing for CraftBeerAsia.com and today I write about craft beer for Groove and edit for The Beer Post. In large part, I have Craftworks to thank for sparking this passion.

Yet, trends in Seoul evolve fast. I hadn’t gone back to Craftworks after 2014 when a new wave of craft beer joints hit the scene.

However, when the idea of profiling a craft beer brunch came up, I thought it would be fitting to revisit the place where it all started

for me and for many other beer lovers.

This past January Craftworks launched a Craftswork Revisited campaign. Craftworks underwent changes in management and direction. Since this renewal, the gastropub franchise has been quietly attracting new business and bringing back old regulars.

General manager Stephan Venter says that the most significant changes are apparent in the menu, emphasizing improvements in quality as well as quantity. All ingredients are made in- house to ensure quality, while the American-sized portions equate brunching to feasting. I let them pick from the menu for me and they brought me a new brunch dish they will soon be releasing, tentatively called The Anglo-American Breakfast.

They certainly weren’t kidding about the portion sizes. The dish was two full brunches in one: three Benedict-style poached eggs, three small breakfast sausages, a long slice of campagnard bread with four strips of chorizo, and a generous portion of well-crisped home fries—plus a

pancake breakfast. The breakfast actually comes on two separate plates.

The crispy home fries were a highlight; the eggs benedict were a creamy delight; the raspberry sauce covering the pancakes: perfection. In fact, butter and syrup toppings may be superfluous.

Craftworks is playing with some brunch cocktails, including a unique selection of Bloody Marys. However, it wouldn’t be a true revisit if I didn’t order my first craft love, the Geumgang Dark Ale, to wash it all down.

Keep an eye out for drink specials, new beer production and summer seating that should make Craftworks a place to visit or revisit this summer. tel 02-794-2537 Address 651 Itaewon 2-dong Myungsan Bldg.

1st Floor Seoul 140-861, Korea website www.craftworkstaphouse.com Directions Noksapyeong Exit 2, walk until you get to the under pass and go through it and across the street towards Lexus dealership. Walk straight two blocks and Craftworks is on your right near Don Charly's.

Prices Beers from KRW 8,000 - 8,500 Brunch from KRW 12,000 - 16,000

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www.groovekorea.com June 2016

The Damyang House A countryside retreat in South Jeolla Province

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Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Story by Sean Walker Photo by The Damyang House

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he Development

Our successful vacation rental business, built from an abandoned house in a bamboo forest, was not the outcome of a well-outlined business model, a background in real estate or an MBA from a prestigious university. Instead, we were driven by a combination of ignorance, stubbornness and a lack of foresight that prevented us from having a Plan B. Forking out your life savings on a foreclosed abandoned house leaves you with very few options but to stumble through the process and hope for the best.

Hindsight affords a unique perspective which I am more than willing to share with anyone considering a similar project. It’s certainly not impossible, but easy is an adjective I would never use. For starters, finding an affordable piece of property with any semblance of privacy is a true-to-life needle-in-a-haystack challenge. Those clustered groupings of homes sprinkled throughout the countryside are there for a reason.

enough to sample local delicacies, enjoy a bit Zoning laws prevent you from buying land on of sightseeing or even find a store to stock a mountain top and then building an idyllic log up on booze and meat for an evening’s BBQ. cabin and even if they didn't, land prices are We’re tucked away in a corner of extremely expensive in a counDamyang County, but Mudeung try of this size so you would need The deck and National Park and the Gwangju to have access to a small fortune. fire pit in the front Lake Eco-Park provide ample That sweet low-interest loan yard are perfect opportunities for hiking, cycling, with only 20% down payment for a BBQ, a game or fishing, and popular local resthe bank was offering you for or two of bean-bag taurants are plentiful in the area. the apartment you were looking at? That's no longer on the table. toss or enjoying the Assuming we share a tax bracket, deafening silence and you have also romanticized Having 50% down payment on a and fresh air the the idea of renovating an old countryside property will probcountryside is house through years of watchably get the bank to at least hear famous for ing neatly packaged 30-minute you out, but then again, you're home improvement TV shows, asking them to take time out of buying a move-in-ready house is neither an their day rubber stamping low-risk apartment option nor desirable. Your budget will ultiloans so be prepared to shop around. mately dictate what the realtor shows you, and And of course the old adage “location, locachances are whatever you find will need some tion, location” is especially true if you plan to work. Finding a competent contractor that turn your countryside retreat into a profitable you can trust is a complaint echoed by many business. Most people looking for a weekliving here in Korea (or anywhere really). The end getaway will value being off the beaten first estimate after buying our fixer-upper, path, as long as the beaten path is accessible

Cost The weekend package is KRW 360,000 and includes: two guests for two nights, late check-out on Sunday (6pm), free transport from the Gwangju bus or train station to the house upon arrival, and complimentary firewood, coffee and beer koozies to enjoy during your visit.

Website www.thedamyanghouse.com Facebook www.facebook.com/thedamyanghouse E-mail mrseanwalker@gmail.com Location Jishil Village, Damyang, Jeollanam-Do

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The Damyang House is located in a small, traditional countryside village. The property itself is at the base of a mountain and is literally cut out of a bamboo forest. An old stone fence and a gate line the only exposed sides of the property ensuring privacy for our guests. The deck and fire pit in the front yard are perfect for a BBQ, a game or two of bean-bag toss or enjoying the deafening silence and fresh air that the countryside is famous for. The spacious modern kitchen, cast iron fireplace and state-of-the-art entertainment center available indoors offer a cozy retreat during the colder months. The Damyang House makes a perfect pet-friendly getaway for couples, small groups or families.

The options for exploring in the area are limited only by one’s energy level. Those looking for a leisurely stroll will be content with visiting the maze of boardwalks in the Gwangju Lake Eco-Park, a popular tourist attraction less than one kilometer from the house. The area is famous for its bird-watching and bass fishing and attracts bus-loads of day-trippers from Gwangju in search of fresh air and a relaxing afternoon. A bit more off the beaten path, but still more of a walk and less of a hike, are the rice paddies directly in front of the Jishil Village entrance. The valley is virtually tourist-free, offers spectacular views of Mudeung Mountain and depending on the season, filled with lush green or golden brown rice paddies. Those with a bit more energy will enjoy the five-kilometer Jishil Valley trail which starts right in our front yard and finishes with breathtaking views of the valley and Mudeung National Park. Additionally, there are four bikes available for use at the house and this is a great way to explore the area. The infamous Mudeung swimming holes are just a few kilometers away and make a refreshing end to an afternoon of cycling.

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The Rental

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at over KRW 100 million, nearly brought me to tears.

Needless to say, our budget was a bit less than that and led us to interview a handful of other contractors, eventually settling on one recommended by family and offering an unbeatable price of KRW 30 million for a top-to-bottom renovation of the house. The selection of wallpaper, tiles, fixtures, and just about everything else is limited so don’t approach your contractor with a litany of photos you collected from Pinterest and expect any of it to happen. Visit the tile and wallpaper shop yourself and after excluding everything covered in flowers and sparkles, you’ll have a better idea of what you have to work with.

Hints & Tips Building a business as a vacation rental out of your new countryside home is a great way to recoup some of your initial investment and help pay off your loans. We approached this by first building a website that outlines what our house and neighborhood has to offer. This is a task directly proportional to how tech-savvy you are and how quickly you are able to produce content through research, writing and photography. For me it took about a year and will forever be a work in progress www. thedamyanghouse.com Next you’ll need a solid Airbnb profile, which involves more than just posting a few photos and a small description.

Obtaining and maintaining a high (5-star) rating on Airbnb is a full-time job and the community is notorious for sniffing out and destroying those that half-heartedly approach it www.airbnb.com/rooms/ 2339315 Finally, finding customers through marketing and convincing the public you are not a scam artist is a slow process, made easier in today’s world of social media, but slow nonetheless www.facebook.com/thedamyanghouse.

Word of mouth is massive among the expat community, so treat your guests right and eventually your customer base will grow along with your business.mFor those of you interested in pursuing a similar project, I cannot encourage you enough; it’s a decision I will never regret. Call your real-estate agent today and start looking at properties to get a feel for what’s available around your preferred area. For those of you content with a weekend countryside adventure, get in touch and book a visit at The Damyang House!

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We’re tucked away in a corner of Damyang County, but Mudeung National Park and the Gwangju Lake Eco-Park provide ample opportunities for hiking, cycling, or fishing, and popular local restaurants are plentiful in the area.

Courting the Classic Turkey in

10 Days in Asia Minor to bring you closer to antiquity

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Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Story and Photos by Stefan Lotz

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

At Sardis, I could marvel at the reconstructed Roman gymnasium complex, the colourful mosaics of the Jewish synagogue and the silent pillars of the temple of Artemis.

gymnasium complex, the colorful mosaics of the Jewish synagogue and the silent pillars of the temple of Artemis. Ephesus, the most well-known city of the Ionian League, was overrun by tourists, but an early start gave me the pleasure of taking in the majesty of the Library of Celsus undisturbed before the buses arrived. I also had the pleasure of meeting Bilam, one of the caretakers of the grounds and popularly known as the Cat Papa. This kindly soul takes care of the 50-60 cats that now rule the ancient city. At Hierapolis (Pamukkale), the travertines (calcium stone) cascading down the mountain have made this Roman spa town a popular destination for tourists, ancient and modern alike.

Apart from this novel attraction, the old city itself is impressive in its stature, especially its theatre, which boasts a reconstructed stage and orchestra that epitomize the achievements of Roman art.

In Priene I realized that what made ancient architecture so extraordinary and these cities so special was the unique synthesis between natural and man-made beauty which the Persians, Greeks and Romans carefully weaved into their public spaces. Whether the location of a city or the backdrop of a temple, nature was not something to be used or discarded; rather, it was the pivot, the reference point from which architectural lines could be

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very specific purpose; I wanted to explore in blissful, solitary peace, so no travel agent or tour could be involved. Lastly, to reach these classic cities, I constantly had to adjust my itinerary to optimize my time.

The ten days turned out every bit as amazing as I hoped they would be. My first major city was Pergamum, situated high on a hilltop in the modern day city of Bergama. As the cable car hoisted me up to the ruins of the city known as a centre of knowledge in ancient times, my anticipation grew with every broken wall spotted below. I was rewarded with all the splendour I could wish for and all the solitude I wanted. Here I got to see my first real Roman theatre, a vast structure capable of housing 10,000 spectators and built at an angle of 54 degrees, one of the steepest in the Roman Empire. Further up, the ruins of the temple of Trajan shined bright on its purposefully built platform, supported by vast arches that put modern architecture to shame.

Each archaeological site had its own appeal. At Sardis, I could marvel at the rec o n s t r u c ted Roman

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recently had the chance to fulfil a lingering wish to explore the ruins of the classic civilizations nestled in beautiful Turkey. By hijacking a few days from a trip to the family in Cape Town, I could make this a reality - although on a tight schedule and a limited budget.

In antiquity, the cities of Asia Minor functioned as melting pots of culture as the Lydian, Persian, Hellenistic and Roman empires marched through, infusing these cities with their cultural imprint. As much as I wanted to survey the whole of this vast territory, I only had ten days to see as much as I could. My wish list included Nicaea, Pergamum, Sardis, Ephesus, Hierapolis (now known as Pamukkale), Priene, Miletus, Didyma and Halicarnassus (now known as Bodrum). This sketchy itinerary was borne out of a romantic fascination with the region that had its origins in a stopover in Istanbul in 2012. I was so taken with this exotic city that I consumed various books about its history and promptly dragged my wife there for our anniversary the next year. A short escape to Assos brought us face to face with the beauty of a remarkable Athenian temple. This perplexed me. I knew nothing about Turkey except for the history of Istanbul and yet here in front of me stood a Roman relic that rivalled those in Europe. Thus started an obsession that periodically went into hibernation as the daily grind eroded those amazing moments of discovery in ancient Byzantium.

The Turkey affliction resurfaced after I read two books of historical fiction written by the inimitable Gore Vidal. In Julian, he recreates the life of Emperor Julian, the last apologist of the ancient gods, and in Creation he surveys the cultural landscape of the ancient civilizations (Greek, Persian, Indian and Chinese) through the eyes of Cyrus Spitama, grandson of the prophet Zoroaster and lifelong friend of Xerxes. As I travelled with his characters through these ancient lands, I knew I had to find my way back to the cities where these colourful figures nurtured greatness.

So when the opportunity presented itself, I promptly embarked on a ten-day whirlwind trip to discover the ancient world. Circumstances forced me to make interesting choices as I ventured into the past. I could only go in winter but, being an inhabitant of Seoul, I reckoned 15 degree days would be like spring. I had to do it on a tight budget, so public transport became my friend. I also had a

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Getting to the cities on my wish list was not difficult, but it required some planning and a great degree of flexibility deduced - not in order to supersede what was found in nature, but to complement and enhance.

Despite my ascetic travel arrangements, which involved quiet evenings reading up on and planning the next day’s excursion, getting up at six in the morning and travelling 3-5 hours daily on buses in various states of crowdedness, I was touched by the friendliness of the people that surrounded me. Don’t have a bus pass in a new city? Expect the bus driver to allow you to hop on for free or an innocent bystander to sponsor you on his card, with a stoic nod of the head and a thin, moustached smile. At Bergama, Zafar dished up a beautiful meal in his two-table restaurant, adding extra yogurt, biscuits, tea and an engaging conversation at no cost.

Similarly, my landlady at the Pamukkale Hotel invited me, the only guest for the night, into their living room for dinner as the restaurant was apparently too cold. Over olives, zucchini, cheese, yogurt, bread, beer and the seven o’clock news, I enjoyed the company of her and her husband as they colored in the spectacle on TV with grunts, gestures and frank opinions. Only once was I forced to make use of an agent to organize a day trip, as no organized tours went to Priene, Miletus and Dydema in the winter. In Kusadasi, after trying several other agencies, Jimmy – the owner of Tour Altinkum – promptly worked out a very reasonable price for me for a private tour. I was indeed surprised the next day when Jimmy himself took me

around, bought me a traditional breakfast, shared his insights on the country and the archaeological sites and generally just made the day comfortable and fun.

Getting to the cities on my wish list was not difficult, but it required some planning and a great degree of flexibility, as I discovered on my first day. The idea was to travel to Bursa via Nicaea (Iznik), the location of the first Ecumenical Council held in 325. I considered this reasonable as my plane landed at 5am and I could catch the first ferry at Yeni Kapi at 7.45am. As the Sea of Marmara slid by under the enormous ferry, I decided that such a detour with a heavy pack would be a risky and somewhat uncomfortable affair.

Taking the bus from the ferry straight to Bursa’s metro turned out to be a good adjustment, as the city is fairly big and it took me a while to get to the area where I planned to stay. By the time I’d booked into the hotel it was past lunchtime - a task that would have been difficult to accomplish at night in the snow.

The next day I planned to take a bus from Bursa to Bergama, but the direct bus to Bergama only departed at 4pm. I took the 9 am to Izmir instead. I realized that it would be better to work from a central point and do day trips instead of trying to traverse new routes and find new hotels every day. This turned out to be a sound strategy as it reduced the amount of stress inherent in relocating hotels and saved valuable time that I couldn’t afford to lose. Loud, bustling Izmir (ancient Smyrna) was a good host, but not

T RAV E L Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

chaeological sights on my wish list. In fitting fashion, I ended my “courting of the classic” in Bodrum (once known as Halicarnassus).

This beautiful seaside town was a delight to behold. The grand crusader castle of St. Peter stands guard over millions of Turkish lira worth of modern day nautical equipment. A summer playground for the rich of Europe and Turkey, the marina boasts some of the most extravagant yachts in the Mediterranean, the promenade aspires to be a catwalk for model wannabes and the bars, restaurants and discos promise a nightlife that would be difficult to forget. Well, as you know, I was there in February, in winter, so none of this materialized. After a delicious meal in a completely empty restaurant on the deserted promenade, I headed back to my pensyon for a solitary beer to celebrate the end of a wonderful trip. And that was the perfect ending I had wished for.

Ten magical days to remember, to cherish, to nurture. Ten days to craft a new wish list and populate it with exotic names such as Cappadocia, the Lydian Way, and Aphrodisias. Although I purposefully explored the ancient history of Turkey, what always fascinates me about the country is the rich tapestry of its cultural fabric. Here, the prominence of the Ottomans effortlessly mingles with the legacy of the Romans and the Greeks. Whether it is the food, music, people or art, Turkey delivers on a multitude of levels. So I will be back soon, but that will have to wait a while. First I need to follow the ancients to their origins in Greece and Rome.

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the ideal companion for a gracious stay-over. But then I chose to make Basame my base, as it was an e x c e l l e n t transport hub. The seaside promenade was beautiful and Konak Meydani was a pleasant respite from the dynamism of the city.

If I had more time during the day to explore further afield or stay in the more upmarket areas, I might have discovered hidden treasure in the city’s crowded bazaars and parks. Still, day tripping from Izmir made my trips comfortable and hassle-free.

In nine days I saw all but one of the ar-

Edited by Steve Smith (photo@groovekorea.com)

PHO T O S h o p

Groove Korea welcomes PhotoShop. This section brings some of those special shots from our very own GK photographers to give you a snapshot into their world…

Photographer Lorenzo Corti

PhotoShop-grapher

Photoshop H Zett M in action, Lonely Smoker

A recent addition to the Groove Korea photography team, Lorenzo Corti, a musician from Italy, showcases his personal view of the stage and of the street. He loves portraits and never misses the opportunity to shoot to whatever catches his eye.

Website www.lorecortiphotography.com

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www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Photoshop Critique This picture was taken at Seoul Jazz Festival last year. I like to identify myself as the musician on the stage and I try to get his view and to get the flow of his emotions with my camera. In this case, to see him from behind gave me the prefect sensation of the music passing through him and reaching the audience.

PHO T O S h o p

Photoshop-grapher

Photoshop Finding Another Way Out

Salgu Wissmath is a portrait and documentary photographer. They enjoy taking photos of environmental portraits and creating images with a minimalist, geometric aesthetic. They are currently biding their time freelancing in Seoul before entering grad school this fall to pursue photojournalism.

Photoshop Critique Finding Another Way Out is part of my ongoing self-portrait series, Without Disguise. Without Disguise began as a way to cope with my emotions and has led me on a journey of recovery. In this image, the seemingly never-ending tunnel represents the way depression often feels.

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

Instagram @salguwissmath

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Website www.salguwissmath.com

Edited by Steve Smith (photo@groovekorea.com)

Photographer Salgu Wissmath

LI S T IN G S Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

HOTELS & RESORTS

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS

FAMILY & KIDS

American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

EMBASSIES

British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS

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Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000 Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180 Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500 Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Jin Air 1600-6200

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries.

6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

D ETUR

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NDO

HEALTH

Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book?

(02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr

UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

Hair & Joy

Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean.

National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture.

Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals.

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do

Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243

Seven Uniqlo Springs

HonhIk Univ. Stn. Line2 Exit8

www.hairandjoy.com Gangnam groove ads.pdf Apgujeong Branch

Qunohair

1 19/01/2016 17:14:37 Phone 02.549.0335

Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

www.qunohair.com

10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

DRAMA

ART MUSIC

Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays.

Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art.

10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, NewC Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

M Y Plateau (02) 1577-7595 CM • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays. MY

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Hair&Joy

Mapo-gu Dong gyo-dong 168-3_ 3F

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SERVICE SPORT

COMMUNITY

ACADEMIC

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FRIENDSHIP

Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

www.groovekorea.com June 2016

AMUSEMENT PARKS

Animal hospitals

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Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age.

A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com

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