issue 118
August 2016
igvc
charity in the community
good atlas
Tattoo Taboo?
breaking the language barrier
low cost carriers taking the won by an extra mile
www.groovekorea.com
Editorial Vol. 118 August 2016
Editorial August 2016
Korea is no stranger to the taboo and although attitudes are changing, some may say, there’s still a long way to go. One longstanding cultural grudge is none other than the unique art of tattoos. Although Koreans are softening toward the idea, there’s still a long way to go. With getting professional training, legal licenses and recognizing the practice as art just some of the uphill struggles which exist in the country, tattoos are also losing their negative connotations and are now becoming more renowned as a fine art. This month Barabara Bierbrauer speaks to three tattoo artists to find out what exactly is changing in their world.
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www.groovekorea.com August 2016
O n
cover t h e August 2016
Seoul Ink Tattoo Studio open their doors to Groove Korea this month as Barbara Bierbrauer speaks to the artists. former art students from Chung-Ang university Ki Jin, Arang and Camoz share their artistic direction and talk about how tattoos are changing attitudes in Korea. Cover Photo by Steve Smith
In Community, expats are going online with Soo Hyun Choi sharing her Vegan Vlogger experiences while Dianne Pineda meets two youtube fashion stars. Ali Saleh finds out how to get over that language barrier with the help of Good Atlas and Rob Shelley spends a morning on a different kind of running. In entertainment, Emma Kalka looks into the music festivals taking place around the region and gets up close and personal with Korean reggae artist Skull. Simon McEnteggart looks at K-film celebrating Three By Korea while Paul Keelan shares an insight into the homegrown Kimbab records. For something to fill the appetite, Andy
Hume checks out Appia while Yoo Jin Oh heads to Tampa Sandwich bar. Jordan Redmond finds out just how NYC Eats is invading Seoul exactly and Lauren Mays shares her experiences with the Korean Kimbap Burrito. For those trips away, Hallie Bradley looks into a weekend in Taeun-Gun while Naheen Madarbakus-Ring gives the lowdown on low cost carriers to get you around the region without breaking the bank. And that should be plenty to sit back and relax and enjoy the August sun. Whether you are experiencing a quieter season at work, the last of the summer vacation or are new to the peninsula, stay cool and enjoy outdoor the issue.
What's in this issue Vol. 118 August 2016
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The taboo of the tattoo
04
EDITORIAL
10
Key People Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors
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What's on Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month
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National News national news with Korea JoongAng Daily
sponsors
Entertainment
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Novotel Ambassador Seoul Gangnam Up close and personal with Novotel Manager, Byeong Woo Jeong
Community 22
the vegan connection Being vegan needn't be so difficult
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An Atlas for the 21st Century Finding your 21st Century online community Atlas
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www.groovekorea.com August 2016
Giving back to The community A trio of charities for the community to delve into
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Drinks, Jokes, and Jogging A drinking club with a running problem
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Vloggers of the East Speaking to Vlogger stars Sunny and Mina
Three By‌ Korean Independence on the big screen
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Regional Festivals Visit some of the region's festival summer hotspots
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Interview with... Getting up close and personal with reggae artist Skull
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Gimbab Records Discovering the true sound of Kimbab
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Being vegan needn't be so difficult
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Redemption Excellence and the Threat of Zika A look ahead at the upcoming Rio Olympics
Spotlight 42
Tattoo Art in Korea The taboo of the tattoo
What's in this issue Vol. 118 August 2016
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Quality, affordable burgers in Itaewon's coolest new pocket.
Food & Drink 48
How We Eat Here A love letter to learning how to eat in Korea.
49
Ocean Water An alcoholic update of a well-known American drive-in treat.
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Downtowner Quality, affordable burgers in Itaewon's coolest new pocket.
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www.groovekorea.com August 2016
Red Sauce Burrito The city's most irresistible destination dishes.
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An Appia Meal is Hard to Find A serious contender for best bistro in Itaewon, if not the city.
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Burrito Kimbap Easy Mexican-Korean fusion for a summer Han River outing.
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Tampa sandwich Bar Sunshine and sandwiches at the breezy Yeonnam-dong eatery.
Travel 56
Taean-Gun A weekend getaway in the Taean Gun region
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Take to the Skies Traveling around the region doesn't need to cost an arm and a leg
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photoshop Blair Kitchener and Hannah Green head up PhotoShop this month
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A weekend getaway in the Taean Gun region
Key people Vol. 118 August 2016
Paul Keelan Soo Hyun Soo Hyun is a teen blogger, filmmaker, and self-described adventurer. She recently moved to Seoul from Portland, Oregon (that rainy city known for arts & counterculture). She's often traveling, meeting new people, or combing streets for vegan restaurants (find her adventures @seascxpe on Instagram!). During breaks, Soo enjoys obsessing over rabbits, tending to cacti, and binge-watching kids' cartoons.
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www.groovekorea.com August 2016
Jason Newland Jason Newland moved to Korea in 2012 to investigate food so spicy American veterans spontaneously combusted while eating it in the 1950s. So far, he has not found this food. He haphazardly studied English and Philosophy at East Tennessee State University and spends his mornings and afternoons on hours long bicycle rides along the Han River to justify the copious calories he consumes. To afford his eats, he coaches elementary school students on the finer points of "How are you?"
Paul Keelan is a creative writer, journalist, freelance critic, independent photographer and phenomenologist who currently resides in Seoul. He is currently working on a novel titled Interstates loosely based on American regionalism and foodie culture and a travel-writing anthology called Suborient about voyages in East and Southeast Asia. Whenever possible, he loves to analyze music, films, food, media, and literature.
Ali Saleh A California native, Ali has spent the past two years meandering about the Korean peninsula, teaching English, and, occasionally, writing stories with the hopes that someone, somewhere, will give it a home for publication. When he's not wiping noses or singing nursery rhymes, Ali spends most of his time watching movies, procrastinating, and staying up way too late into a night out because Seoul has no issues with it. You can check out his movie/ travel blog here wait0what.wordpress.com/
Barbara Bierbrauer Barbara Bierbrauer works as a journalist and a board member of the Songdo International Dog Club, that she founded, while rising two kids and two dogs. She holds a master´s degree in political sciences and used to work as an executive headhunter in Germany. When not working she enjoys running half marathon, train her dogs and practices for a triathlon.
Andy Hume Andy Hume comes from Glasgow in Scotland. He has been living in Korea since 2009, mostly using the opportunity to eat and drink his way around Asia from beef rendang in Indonesia to Taedonggang beer in North Korea, and getting very fat into the bargain. When not eating or drinking beer, Andy teaches in Seoul, as well as coaching debate at Ewha University and for the Korean national team, and likes to introduce Korean friends to the best foreign food in Seoul – and vice versa – at his blog, sojusunrise.com
Seoul UPenn Dental Clinic
서울 유펜 치과 KOREA
Creating Beautiful Smiles Providing Gentle Dental Care
5 floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea. th
Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL DireCtor
naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com
Do-shik Kim
EDITORIAL
D.M.D. University of Pennsylvania School of Dental Medicine Periodontics(Gum disease) American Academy of Periodontics Periodontal Prosthesis American Academy of Osseointegration Dental Implant American Dental Association
Community FOOD & DRINK ENTERTAINMENT TRAVEL PHOTO
naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com charlotte Hammond food@groovekorea.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com steve smith photo@groovekorea.com Co py Editors
Gil Coombe
Dental Implant
W RITERS & CONTRIBUTORS
Crowns (caps) & Fixed Bridges Teeth Whitening Esthetic dentistry (Veneers & Bonding) Periodontal Scaling & Surgery
Soo Hyun Choi. Ali Saleh, Rob Shelley, Dianne Pineda, Emma Kalka, Simon McEnteggart, Paul Keelan, Andy Hume, Yoo Jin Oh, Luke Butcher, Barbara Bierbrauer, Naheen Madarbakus-Ring, Charlotte Hammond, Jason Newland, Bobby Kim, Jordan Redmond, Lauren Mays, Jordan Redmond, Hallie Bradley, Sean Choi, Rob Gyu, Itaewon Global Village Center, Robert Evans The Livescape Group, Rainforest World Music Group, 3rd Bass HanCinema, Rio 2016, Steve Smith, Paola Cox Kaegan Saenz, Hannah Green ART & DESIGN
ART DIRECTOR seokyoung Jang design@a-grid.net MARKETIN G & ADMINISTRATION
CFO steve seung-jin lee MARKETING DIRECTOR peter chong ACCOUNTING yi-seul oh W EB & MOBILE
himes design www.himesdesign.com finch professtional services www.finchproservices.com
116 Yanghwa-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul 02-324-2525 seoulpenn5901@gmail.com Weekdays 10am-6pm / Sat 10am-1pm Evening hours available by appointment
Hapjung Station Subway Line 2&6
3
9
Seoul Upenn Dental Clinic
Hongik Univ.
Hongdae Station Subway Line 2
PUBLISHER
sean choi sean@groovekorea.com
To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com. To contribute to groovekorea, promote an event or share your opinions, please email naheen@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.
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All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2016
What's on MON
WED
TUE
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Busan Sea Festival Aug 1-7
TH
3
Ulleungdo Squid Festival Aug 3-5
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Muan White Lotus Festival Muan, Jeollanam-do | Aug 12-15
Suicide
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Hwacheon Tomato Festival Hwacheon, Gangwon-do | Aug 12-15
The Great Battle Tongyeong
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MAXWELL summers’ tour Olympic Park | Aug 16
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Jarasum Fireworks Festival Gapyeong | Aug 12-15
Yeongdong Grapes Festival Aug 25-28
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www.groovekorea.com August 2016
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Ghostbusters
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Mechanic: Resurrection
CALENDAR August 2016 FRI
THU
SUN
SAT
5
Gochang Mud Festival Aug 5-7
Squad
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of Hansan Festival | Aug 11-15
Electrodash 2016 Yeouido Han River | Aug 6
weezer
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Night Walk in Jeonju Aug 12-13 | www.jeonju-night.kr
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Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival Aug 12-14
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Muchangpo Mystic Sea Road Festival Boryeong | Aug 19-21
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Asia Hotel Art Fair Seoul 2016 JW Marriott | Aug 25-28
Chuncheon Dakgalni&Makkuksu Festival Chuncheon train station | Aug 23-28
Daegu Int’l Bodypainting Festival Duryu Park | Aug 27-28
www.groovekorea.com August 2016
Muju Firefly Festival Muju, Jeollanbuk-do | Aug 27-Sept 4
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Star Trek Beyond
Nati onal Ne ws
In association with August 2016 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.
To stop prostitution, police target landlords
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olice are making headway in their battle against prostitution in Korea and now, in addition to taking down prostitution rings themselves, they have also started targeting landlords. In March, police raided a prostitution venue called “Lip Cafe.” After booking the broker, police sent a warning to the owner of the building. About three months later, however, the place was once more busted for prostitution. “I let the tenant stay,” the building owner said, “because he promised in writing he would never run the prostitution venue again.” Nevertheless, police booked him on a charge of aiding prostitution. Since last year, police have been making landlords responsible for prostitution venues that operate on their property. When police find such venues, they first send a warning to the landlord and if prostitution is found in the building again, the landlord is booked for complicity. The Special Law on Prostitution stipulates that persons who are complicit in prostitution
shall be sentenced to three years in prison or fined up to 30 million won ($26,325). Although providing prostitution venues is considered a crime, it was previously rare for police to punish landlords - until last year. This policy changed when police discovered many prostitution brokers continued their business in the same building simply by changing the name of the business or the name of the venue owner on paper. Those working in studio flats, for instance, were found to have continuously run their parlors simply by moving to different flats within the same building. Police believe this was made possible because landlords turned a blind eye. “The aim of the policy is to punish immoral building owners who overlook prostitution venues in their own buildings because they think there’s no problem as long as they receive their monthly rental fee,” said Kim Dong-su, a director from the Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency. The number of landlords police sent warn-
ings to fell from 1,524 in 2015 to 1,297 in 2016. The number who were booked also went down in the same period from 226 to 161, according to the police agency. Due to this shift in police policy, landlords have been clearing their buildings of prostitution. “I nullified my contract with a broker and notified him he had to move out of my building within one week,” said a 54-year-old landlord who owns a studio flat near Seolleung Station in Gangnam District, southern Seoul. Another landlord in Gwangjin District, western Seoul, said, “I found out that a prostitution massage room was operating in one of my buildings only after police notified me, because I live far away from Seoul. I’m thinking of personally taking charge of the building so that such crimes don’t happen again.” “The landlords booked by the police are fined by the prosecution and they get a red mark on their social records,” said Sohn Huitaek, a director from the National Police Agency. “That makes the punishment quite effective.”
Busan police face sex abuse charges
Yeoksam business hotel
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he Korean National Police Agency said on July 12 that it will press criminal charges against the two officers who had sex with high school students they were assigned to protect. The Busan Metropolitan Police Agency Commissioner Lee Sang-sik will likely face internal disciplinary action, according to the Korean National Police Agency. The two officers face charges of violating the Act on the Protection of Children and Juveniles against Sexual Abuse since they could have easily used their status as police officers to manipulate the students. The officer of Busan’s Saha Police Precinct faces possible arrest while the officer of the Yeonje Police Precinct has been booked without detention. The two officers were school-assigned officers, or SPOs, part of a system that was instated in 2012 after a student in Daegu was bullied and later committed suicide. The Saha Police SPO had sex with a high school girl in his car in early June. The Yeonje Police SPO had sex with another high school girl multiple times starting in March and exchanged more than 18,000 text messages with her expressing his interest in her, according to authorities. The fact that the two officers had sex with high school girls and were allowed to resign without consequences was first exposed when a former chief of a police precinct accused the officers on Facebook on June 24. When the news broke, authorities denied having known about it. But the national police announced on July 12 that Saha Police Chief Jeong Jin-gyu and Yeonje Police Chief Kim Sung-sik did know about it before the officers’ resignations. The Korean National Police Agency additionally confirmed that a superintendent of the Busan Metropolitan Police Agency and a superintendent of the Korean National Police Agency had also both known about the Yeonje officer by early June but did not report it to their supervisors. Meanwhile, the Korean National Police Agency confirmed on July 12 that its commissioner, Kang Sin-myeong, and Busan Metropolitan Police Agency Commissioner Lee Sang-sik did not know about the incident until it went viral online on June 24.Still, it will likely discipline Lee for being the official chiefly responsible for his subordinates trying to cover up the incident and submitting false testimonies. Sixteen other people including the Saha and Yeonje police chiefs will face internal disciplinary action, but not Commissioner Kang. The levels of disciplinary action will be determined by a civic investigation committee composed of members of the public administered by the Korean National Police Agency. Some criticize this decision, saying the investigative team put together by the Korean National Police Agency is giving way to its commissioner and other authorities within the agency.
reasonable stay
at the perfect location
FREE Wi-Fi | FREE parking 8 mins from COEX 5 mins from Gangnam subway station T +82 2 554 8342 F +82 2 557 6190 nh@innthecity.co.kr www.innthecity.co.kr
Teheranro 37-gil 13-8 Gangnam-gu, Seoul Yeoksam subway station (Line no. 2) Exit #8 (150m) Gangnam stn
Yeoksam stn
Sunryeung stn
Samsung stn (COEX)
Nati onal Ne ws
Baseball
player caught for
lewd act
A
fter police announced on July 12 that they caught him masturbating with his car window down while looking at a woman walk down the street, KT Wiz put the 2009 Korean baseball league MVP Kim Sang-hyun on a restricted list the next day. The 36-year-old third baseman was investigated by the police after engaging in the lewd behavior in his car on June 16 in Ilkan, North Jeolla. The woman, who is known to be a 20-year-old, reported Kim to the local police. Although Kim left the scene immediately, police ran the license number of his car and Kim later admitted to the charges. “As long as the victim feels sexually humiliated,” police said, “lewd conduct charges can apply.” Kim was booked without physical detention on July 4. After the scandal went public, the Wiz decided on July 13 to release him from the team and place him on the league disqualified list.
“We decided to discipline him for damaging the dignity of pro baseball and the club,” said the Wiz in its official statement. “Kim agreed to take the punishment.” A player who is on the disqualified list cannot return to his club for a year without approval by his team. Although the club still retains ownership over the player, he cannot participate in any team training nor can he receive salary for the duration of his punishment or sign with any other clubs in the league. Kim played for teams such as the Kia Tigers and the Nexen Heroes
Police arrest
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www.groovekorea.com August 2016
2 streaking students
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olice on July 18 booked one Australian and one American who went streaking in the bustling Sinchon area on July 7. The Seodaemun Police Precinct in Seoul reported Monday that
they had booked the two, both 21, without detention on charges of public obscenity. Police also fined a 22-year-old Australian who posed for a naked photo the same day on a misdemeanor charge. According to police,
Kim Sang-huim ⓒJoongang Photo
before joining the Wiz. His career culminated in 2009 when he led the Tigers to the Korean Series with 36 home runs. He won the KBO MVP award and Golden Glove Award for third baseman that year.
the three are exchange students at a university in the Sinchon area for the summer and were playing a “truth or dare” game at a pub. The duo ran naked at around 1 a.m. on July 7 as part of the game, police said. Law enforcement authorities were tipped off to the incident after witnesses made a report that the two, a male and female, were running naked in Sinchon, which was recorded on a CCTV in the area. Police were dispatched to the site but the two suspects had already fled the area to avoid arrest. Police identified the two by analyzing CCTV footage and questioned them on July 14, one week after the incident.
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
Sponsor s
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www.groovekorea.com August 2016
Novotel Ambassador Seoul Gangnam For a touch of Paris in the heart of Seoul, experience the Accor dream Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by Sean Choi and Novotel, Gangnam
he Manager
Bradley (Byeong Woo) Jeong beams delightfully as he informs me that he has been working as the Executive Assistant Manager for Sales & Marketing at Novotel Ambassador Seoul Gangnam for just over a year. However, his resume spans an impressive 17 years, his career taking him to a number of top hotel chains up and down the country after an initial three-year study period in British Columbia, Canada improved So what’s his English skills. his secret? Jeong Now a firm and solid believes the key to addition to the Accor team, success is to mingle, Jeong tells of a growing socialize and expect brand which boasts 17 hotels any exciting e around Korea with another ventuality. 9 planned in the near future. The Novotel Gangnam branch has been standing for 23 years, undergoing a number of refurbishments, most recently with six floors going under a paintbrush last year. Jeong is now in management at the hotel and states the biggest influence on his position has been the general manager. Having learnt from him that the most important aspect of hospitality is to take care of all of your associates, Jeong describes his philosophy as “make them well and keep them well.” Of his own personal attributes, Jeong credits his personal improvement and adaptability to a positive attitude. His hospitality experience, which spans all areas, has seen him work in Vancouver as a night auditor and in different roles ranging from the front desk, planning, accounting and now marketing. His current priorities include strategic planning, working with talented associates and building a powerful sales force, especially in this current climate of fierce competition in Korea’s hospitality world. There’s no denying that hotels in Korea – and anywhere else for that matter – cannot totally control sales numbers, trends or their share of the hospitality market, but it’s one challenge he intends to take on. So what’s his secret? Jeong believes the key to success is to mingle, socialize and expect any exciting eventuality. He references a famous Chinese proverb, which is roughly translated as “Do your job well and enjoy your job perfectly”. “It is hospitality, after all,” he adds. However, he is quick to point out that a positive work and life balance is also important for any success. “I spend the week working and it’s important to spend the weekend with my family,” he explains.
Sponsor s Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
As for the future, Jeong is not scared by the competition. A confident manager who expects to still be at Novotel Ambassador Seoul Gangnam in twelve months’ time, Jeong will continue to broaden his knowledge and understand the ins and outs of running this hotel. “We want to share our work and play ethic, and share the Accor product,” he smiles. And with so much work and play available, Novotel Gangnam is just the place to do it.
The Hotel Novotel Ambassador Seoul Gangnam is easy to see from Sinnonhyeon Station. The well-known blue brand letters shine clearly at the top of the towering block. Located in the heart of Seoul, Novotel Gangnam certainly meets all the expectations of the renowned Accor brand. With the hotel hosting 75% oversea visitors and 25% Koreans from around the country, the flagship branch of the hotel caters for both business and leisure trips. With 332 modern and mostly refurbished rooms, the hotel offers 24hour room service, underground parking and onsite restaurants. The Novotel brand is a comforting one. And the Gangnam location exceeds expectations even further with its proud five-star rating. What elevates the Accor brand further is how this mid-scale priced hotel provides an upper mid-scale service. Indeed, no less than five different eateries, leisure and spa activities, function and meeting rooms are ready to cater for every need. The lobby lounge oozes the European factor with chandeliers, comfortable leather sofas
and a mini Eiffel Tower setting a relaxing scene. Until the end of September, enjoy the Sweet Summer Bingsoo and Ice Cream offer with a mix of flavors on your palate. The Bistro and Deli also continues the European theme with fare from a number of countries offering brunch, lunch and dinner menu options and even a healthy food promotion running over the summer. For those who prefer Asian cuisine, in-house Japanese restaurant Shunmi is currently holding a live sushi lunch counter where you can watch the action take place Monday-Saturday. Finally, for something a little more fiery and adventurous, Viva! Mexican Cuisine will be running an unlimited beer and Mexican food buffet until September 10. Other amenities for a hotel break away include a business center for weekday needs and a fully equipped fitness center for all visitors. Laptops and mobile phones can be rented from
the corner and a stone’s throw away from Garougil, the COEX center and the Inter-Continental. For shopping, Gangnam’s underground and aboveground stores are a mere 15 minutes away and, with the hotel located close to three subway stations and numerous bus stops, it’s the perfect place to explore Seoul from.
The Reservation Accor have recently updated their website and mobile app to make their services and reservations even more accessible to all. Whether looking for a room reservation, information about the hotel or even the area, the Novotel app has it all. Providing real time confirmation for any bookings and a direct and instant access to the front desk, speak to anybody about your booking with ease. If visiting for the first time, access the hundreds of real reviews as posted by Trip Advisor guests and even check on your loyalty points with ease. The app also saves users 10% on the reservation and is worth downloading for all your hotel and travel needs.
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the business center and printing and email services are also available. Over in the fitness club, a swimming pool (including lessons), a sauna and a gym are all available for both guests and members. Indoor and outdoor golf is also available for guests and visitors and is open from 6am until 9pm (9.30pm for outdoors). The hotel’s location is perfect for Address 130, Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul business or pleasure, tel 02 531-6520 Email novogres@ambatel.com with Gangnam’s Website novotel.ambatelen.com/gangnam/main.amb main street around
www.groovekorea.com August 2016
The Novotel brand is a comforting one. And the Gangnam location exceeds expectations even further with its proud five-star rating.
ae a t-F re e
otos by Soo Hyu n C h oi
eM
n
a nd ph
Doc u menti ng t h
the vegan connection
C OMMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
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www.groovekorea.com August 2016
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i h t Pa
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S tory
n a country full of samgyeopsal parties, galbi dishes, and the popular fried chicken and beer combo (chimaek), herbivores must wonder, "Is it possible to be vegan here?". I can tell you that I've both asked and answered this question a thousand times in the past few months as a vegan living in South Korea. Korea, the ultimate vacation destination for meat lovers, is unfortunately known as one of the worst countries for a vegan (just ask Huffington Post). Thankfully, this is changing, albeit slowly, as more people become conscious of the anti-meat trend. With fun events like the Vegan Festival, and with all the new vegan cafés popping up everywhere, plant eaters here are beginning to feel less isolated. Isolated. It's a word that brings back many memories - both good and bad - of my first months in Korea. I was fifteen when I denounced all meat and animal by-products from my diet. After staying active with a variety of sports
throughout my life, I was became really into health and fitness, eager to visit the vegan and loved the idea of a wholeSo what did I do? cafés I found, and got the idea some, cruelty-free diet. In PortI did exactly what to start documenting my disland, Oregon, I was thankful brought me to coveries. to live in a city that embraced veganism in the With this in mind, I startsuch lifestyles. first place ed my YouTube channel in Just under a year later, I I scoured February 2016, not long after moved to Korea. Confused and the Internet. moving to Seoul. As a lifemuddled by the cultural shift, I style/vegan channel, I upload began to wonder if it would be a video every other Friday morning. My vidpossible to stay vegan. Veganism became a eos, which are all self-made and produced slippery concept; everything seemed to have from my home, range from talking about life meat in it. Between the galbi dinner parties in Korea, to skits/short films and travel vlogs, and asking whether or not anchovies were to my favorite - episodes for my Vegan's Guide used in the soybean soup at the restaurant, I to Korea segment. almost lost my grip on veganism. So what did A Vegan's Guide to Korea is exactly what I do? I did exactly what brought me to veganit sounds like. Each episode, I venture out to a ism in the first place - I scoured the Internet. vegan café with my cameras. I usually try to I was relieved to learn that I wasn't alone. order the most popular items on their menu, There are actually quite a few vegan Facebook set up my camera to face me from across the groups, and websites where people can leave retable, then talk about the food (partly so I don't views about veggie restaurants around town. I
C OMMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
A Vegan's Guide to Korea is exactly what it sounds like. Each episode, I venture out to a vegan cafĂŠ with my cameras
sense of normality to being vegan, makes it easier..." It's amazing how one event could bring so many people together. So, Korea may not have easy access to soy yogurt, mock meats, and every vegan cheese brand, as I had in Oregon, but I've learned that there is a lot to be said about the delicious vegan cafes, and the ever-growing, passionate community. There may not be many of us, but I've come to appreciate this tight-knit group, and can't wait to see where this plant-based road leads us. Blog sooxhyun.wix.com/heysoohyun Youtube youtube.com/c/heysoo www.groovekorea.com August 2016
bakeries, cafĂŠs, and restaurants. So many people came by to try delicious food, buy treats to take home, and to meet more people who are also living off plant-based diets. It truly became an eye-opening day as I connected with Korea's vegan community. I interviewed a handful of people for the event video I was shooting for the festival. The one question I asked everyone was, "What do you think about having a Vegan Festival?" It was a lighthearted question, and I had not anticipated the deep responses I got. Most commonly, people answered that meeting like-minded people helped them feel less alone. In Korea, where it's still uncommon to follow a meat-free diet, we often feel isolated. As one vegetarian mentioned when asked if he would go vegan, "In Korea, it's still a difficult situation to be vegan". As I skimmed through the footage, one answer caught me in particular: "To do something like this, that shows a sense of community and shows a
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look like a total loner, and partly so viewers can feel like they're there with me). I'm just thankful to have an excuse to go try all these vegan treats! And let me tell you, some of the vegan eateries here are home to some of the best desserts I've ever had. I hope that through these videos, I'm able to help other vegans who are in - or coming into - Korea feel more welcome. Though I may only have around 300 subscribers as of now, I get a great sense of accomplishment whenever I help even one person. Each time I upload a VGK episode, I also write about it on my blog (heysoohyun.tk). "Hey, Soo Hyun" originally started as just a way for me to keep my friends in Oregon updated. But as viewership increased, I began blogging more about veganism and fun places to visit around Korea. Though not for A Vegan's Guide to Korea episode, I also recently attended the first ever Vegan Festival in Seoul. It was a public event held at the Seoul Innovation Park, hosting a multitude of booths set up by vegan
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www.groovekorea.com August 2016
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
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An Atlas for the 21st Century The Travel Friend for the Expat Community Story by Ali Saleh Photos by Chris Kwon Lewis
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ad I been anywhere else in Seoul, it may have proved difficult finding the Southside Parlor as a new arrival to the city. Luckily for me, however, I was in the west end of Itaewon and just a lick away from Haebangchon; probably the two places with the most English speakers in the city. It only took a few moments before I ran into a foreign couple who pointed me the way, and, three flights of stairs later, I was introducing myself to Rob Lyu and looking over the menu. Lyu is the founder and CEO of Atlas, a multi-lingual operating service with too many functions to fit into one description. A Korean-American with a background in politics and economics, Lyu bounced around from investment banking to private equity before finding himself in a venture capital group that focused on new technology startups. “I meandered around a bit with things that I thought
travel assistant resonated immediately.” I should do before striking out on my own," So how does Atlas work? Lyu said. “Finally in 2013 I quit my job and Atlas is a human-operator based assisttook the plunge. My first company didn't work ing service that receives and responds to out, but by the end of it, it was sort of obvious messages via Kakao, Facebook, that there was nothing else for WhatsApp, SMS, and e-mail. me but this.” Lyu is the founder You can make a request in EnOne friend's invite to Korea, and CEO of Atlas, glish—say you want to order a well-received startup website, a multi-lingual food or reserve movie tickets and a year and half later, Lyu operating service and they'll brief you with their finds himself on the forefront with too many best options and prices. After of digital assistance technology functions to fit into you authorize the transaction, with Korea, and the expat-Koone description. you'll make a payment via card, rean experience, as his starting PayPal, or bank transfer, and model. they take care of the rest. “When I first came to Korea in January Outside of basic transactions/orders/ 2015,” Lyu explained, “I realized how bad my payments, Atlas can provide information and Korean is. I was constantly asking my Koreservices that address the friction of traveling an friends for stuff. At the same time, I started and living abroad; advice, recommendations, seeing what was happening in the virtual astranslations, information on the subway syssistance space, and I thought 'I need this here!' tem, banking, visas, and Having backpacked, traveled, and lived abroad virtually anything else for big chunks of my life, the idea of a virtual
the services of Atlas Curious about how others had used the service, I asked Lyu about interesting services Atlas has provided. He came up with this:
“Can you translate this note for me?”
and helping organize [their] data to provide a more personalized and relevant experience.” In terms of branching out internationally, Lyu wants Atlas to be the “travel friend” for the independent traveler, backpacker, exchange student, digital nomad, and expat of the 21st century. “It's like having a local, native friend in your pocket.” Lyu said. “Wherever you are in the world you'll have a helping hand, an inside scoop on what's happening and where to go, all just a few text messages away.” Website www.goodatlas.com
personal messages that people want translated into Korean to ensure nothing is lost in translation. Without getting into too much detail on any particular letter, they are usually in situations of extreme emotion, whether love or joy or conflict. Sometimes it's a sincere thank you card or a love letter. We've done break up letters and a “lover scorned” letter. We've also done multiple emails to help people through conflicts with their employer, with their landlord, and with Korean friends. “When is [famous K-pop group's] flight
3 leaving for their Thailand concert?”
We've helped some die-hard K-pop fans get concert tickets or send gifts to their idol's entertainment agencies. One user wanted to get the flight schedule for a famous K-pop group so they could go to the airport to get pictures/autographs. We posted on a bunch of fan cafes to no avail. We also contacted a number of reporters, and eventually one got us the relevant info. “Is there a veterinarian in Seoul that
4 could be considered 'holistic'? For
example, one that offers alternative medicine for dogs in addition to conventional medicine such as acupuncture, chiropractic, homeopathy or herbal remedies?” We found one in Seocho-dong that can provide acupuncture starting at KRW 23,000 and alternative medicine starting at KRW 38,000. “Help! I cracked my tooth and need to
5 get it fixed before I leave for Thailand tomorrow” We had a traveler who needed a last-minute dentist to repair a cracked tooth. We could not book an English-speaking dentist on such short notice, so she called us from the dentist’s office and we served as her interpreter to get it resolved.
www.groovekorea.com August 2016
regarding life in Korea. Their services have ranged from translating love letters to helping solo travelers find emergency medical assistance in the middle of the night. “We called someone's landlord once when there was a conflict,” Lyu said, “and rallied him to help our customer out. It was kind of like, 'Hey, he's new here, let's show him the best of Korea and try to be empathetic about this.' We see ourselves as a cultural bridge to help people navigate things that seem intuitive back home but can be absolute black holes when overseas.” All the operators, according to Lyu, are Korean natives who have lived abroad for a significant period of time, making them “like-minded and familiar with the expat experience,” Lyu said. The next step for Atlas is releasing their app, which Lyu describes as “providing a richer user interface beyond text messaging
2 We've gotten a number of medium length,
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it's like having a local, native friend in your pocket.
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
A user messaged us at 9am and sent us a picture of her dog. We almost adopted her as an office dog, she was so cute. We posted the dog on numerous Korean websites and searched up and down Naver to find a foster family or a “no-kill” shelter in his area. Eventually we found a pet shop/pet hotel, sent them a photo and they immediately offered to take her.
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“I have a dog I can't keep and need to
1 give away by 6pm tonight”
C OMMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
Giving back to The community The Itaewon Global Village Center needs you for their three charities Story by Katherine Corteza and Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by Itaewon Global Village Center
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he Itaewon Global Village Center (IGVC) is centered around its community ethos, offering language classes, a library and plenty of activities for all local expats. With a full monthly schedule for arts and crafts, there’s something for everyone. But the IGVC also aims to give back to their community and have set out to provide expats with a great local opportunity. The IGVC has teamed up with three local charities – the Yongsan Center for the Disabled, the Yongsan Senior Welfare Center and the Young Nak Aenea’s Home – and every month it arranges for a group of volunteers to help out at these centers. Whether it’s to help the children or the elderly or just to offer some company to those who need it, here’s how you can pitch in.
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Yongsan Center for the Disabled This center is managed by the Anglican Church of Korea. Its goals are to contribute to the social integration of the disabled in Korea, to expand their participation in the society, and to strengthen their rights. To achieve these goals, it offers integrated services to enrich the lives of disabled people, including living consultation, educational programs, cultural programs, family programs, employment support, community support, and strengthening local awareness. The IGCV helps the Yongsan Center for the Disabled in its employment support programs. The IGVC also helps arrange volunteers each month to help our friends at the center with simple craft-making exercises. The items we create together are then sold to area stores and institutions, so this is a way for them to make money. Sometimes, we also help the center during their annual events such as the Day of the Disabled (held on April 20th every year) and the Secret Santa for their annual Christmas party. Address 49 Hyochangwon-ro 93-Gil, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (서울시 용산구 효창원로 93길 49(효창동 3-268) 구립용산장애인복지관)
Next volunteer date August 12, 2016 (every 2nd Friday of each month)
The Yongsan Senior Welfare Center was established on April 1, 2002 by the Seoul Metropolitan Government, and management is enAddress 16, Yongsangudokdeodang-ro 11-Gil, Seoul (서울특별시 용산구독서당로11길 16 (한남동108) trusted to the Onnuri Welfare Foundation. Its 시립용산노인종합복지관). mission is to “be a happy community of senior Next volunteer date August 16, 2016 citizens that promotes welfare” and to “foster (every 3rd Tuesday of each month) happy senior citizens.” The center believes that, to achieve this goal, they should help elderly people through the Personal Role Model Young Nak Aenea’s Home (PRM) program, which includes the following Young Nak Aenea’s Home houses 40 children core values: Good Worker (positive outlook in aged 4 and above with cerebral palsy above life), Stewardship (empathy and the age of 4. Founded in 2004, sympathy), and Worker of the the name Aenea means “a comWhether it’s Worker (professional skills). mendable person,” which reflects to help the Their programs include helping the spirit of the home. The home children or the residents with integrated conprovides self-development for elderly or just sultation, social and life-long the residents through physical to offer some education, domiciliary elderly therapy and daily care. company to those The compound is made up of care, redevelopment, health and who need it, living support, senior citizens’ three floors, including a basehere’s how you social activity support, employment which provides a living can pitch in. ment for the elderly, and local room, classroom, infirmary, welfare. physical therapy room, kitchen, One of their educational programs is the Englaundry and volunteer room. IGVC volunteers lish Language Class, which aims to help precan help prepare afternoon snacks and assist vent Alzheimer’s in senior citizens. Most of them with eating. Also we spend some time the students who join this class used to be protalking, singing to them, and wheeling them fessionals (professors or government employaround. ees, for example) and some of them have lived tel 02-2199-8883~5. abroad for a long time before deciding to retire email itaewon@yongsan.go.kr and come back to Korea, so most of the stuNext volunteer date August 18, 2016 (every 3rd Thursday of each month) dents have intermediate to advanced levels of
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English. IGVC volunteers can visit the center once a month to help them practice their English speaking skills.
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Yongsan Senior Welfare Center
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
Itaewon GVC volunteers can visit the center once a month to help them practice their English speaking skills.
C OMMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
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Drinks, Jokes, and Jogging No Name’s Odyssey into the Obscure World of Hashing Story by Rob Shelley Photos by Robert Evans
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Even the names of hash members are enne Saturday morning I found mycoded. Members must endure a naming cereself wandering aimlessly around mony at their sixth meeting, the details of which Children’s Grand Park, looking are not appropriate for print. Relative noobs like for a “drinking club with a runmyself simply go by the handle “No Name.” ning problem.” I had come looking for a “hash.” There’s a complex list of words and gestures one “You missed the marks,” explained a Yongsan cannot use, under punishment of drink. HashKimchi Hash House member named Too Good ing struck me as part cult, fraternity, church, and to Swallow. “Don’t worry, I think most people are boot camp. But really, the group I ran with didn’t going to miss them this morning.” As she led me take themselves too seriously. Lots of people just towards a wooden enclosure, away from public run or just drink, without combining the two. eyes, I noticed the small half-arrow chalk mark With the initiations over, the run began. I had missed. And there it was, just a few short The object of the run is to follow a marked trail meters from the common sights and sounds of left by the “hare.” I’m slightly athletic, but I do unsuspecting Korean families at play; the hashers not run. I was tired immediately. were ready to play some games of their own. The pack of just under two dozen quickly I had assumed that hashers were a bunch came to their first “check point,” of foreigners dressed up in goofy an area demarcated by a circle clothes, drinking beer, and runSome trails can where the trail can venture in ning through the streets of Seoul even have false any direction. This checkpoint like a pack of hounds, yelling marks, leading one was at a crowded intersection cult-like gibberish, all while giving down a fake trail with at least five possible direcexpats a bad name. I was mostly until all the hash tions, most of them requiring us right. But despite myself, I learned marks suddenly to cross several lanes of traffic. why hashing appeals to so many disappear. Some trails can even have false people around the world: the Decoding the trail marks, leading one down a fake friendship, gamesmanship, hufeels as much like trail until all the hash marks sudmor, and sense of community. the Seoul Escape denly disappear. Decoding the Surprisingly, the hash is an Room as a jog trail feels as much like the Seoul old and very international club. Escape Room as a jog, and a mild Based on the tradition of chaspanic overtook me when it happened to me. Not ing hares with packs of hounds, an all-human panic about running into traffic or anything, version of the game called The Paper Chase but that I’d have to run in the wrong direction was invented in England in the 19th century, several times before I found the trail and might where the human “hare” would leave scraps of die of exhaustion. That’s when I came to underpaper for the human “hounds” to follow. Based stand the value of the pack and their gibberish. on this tradition, the Hash House Harriers Runners immediately set off in each of the five club was founded by a British ex-pat in Kuala directions and, when one group finds another Lumpur in 1938 as a way to cure hangovers on hash mark, they yell the magic words: “On one!” Monday mornings. But hashing as we know I stuck close to my friend, codenamed Beit today didn’t really spread until the 1980’s. tween a Rock and a Hard-on, who has attendToday there’s a hash house in almost every ed over 100 hashes. He believes that hashing country of the world. is a great way to make friends. “Running toThe beginning of the hash is called “chalk gether and solving the puzzle the hares laid talk” and includes small talk, a quick drink, for us is a great way to form friendships. [Or some snacks, and then the hazing of the hash something] as simple as sharing water on an newcomers, or “virgins.” This hazing separates extremely hot day or helping each other climb the hashers from the pretenders. Nothing too walls and other obstacles.” embarrassing happens, but you certainly need At one point, Rock and I decided to try a roast-style sense of humor. Newcomers are a shortcut: a dicey gambit when you don’t know also educated on the complex nomenclature of exactly where the trail is going. We climbed a hash marks and code words.
hill, through bushes and hedges, only to wind up at a dead end. Shortly thereafter, several Koreans witnessed us frantically emerge from the bush with branches clinging to our clothes and hair, sweating, panting, swearing, and me wearing a toy T-Rex around my chest. Don’t ask. This was the part I was afraid of—us foreigners (mostly) acting like loons in the middle of the day, in public. Yet, Korea may be the perfect place for hashing because, let’s face it, people here have been conditioned to ignore each other. Sure, people stared; but their stone, public facades never revealed a hint of surprise or curiosity. Not even when we rejoined the pack in an outdoor zoo crowded with young children. At this point, it’s hard to remember concrete details as tunnel vision came upon me as I was in danger of passing out. Luckily, the “hares” whom we were metaphorically chasing always leave more checkpoints, these being “photo checkpoints” at picturesque locations. Hashing lets you see a side of Seoul that you normally would not, which is one of the most popular reasons people come back each week. We even saw an elephant at a checkpoint! Best of all, I got the chance to catch enough of my breath to finish the trail. Back at the “circle,” more drinks and snacks were passed around, more chanting, singing, mocking, joking, sexual innuendo, and ceremony was to be had. Some members take the drinking and revelling part quite seriously, but some others politely excuse themselves from most of that. A hasher, nicknamed Chinese Fingercuffs, confided that she originally felt a little estranged by the bawdiness. “I was a little
C OMMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
overwhelmed at the circle, but a lot of the more experienced hashers were so friendly, I decided to come back the following week... I still wasn’t sure about the rowdy drinking and offensive songs, but by my third week I had gotten to know enough people... to decide I would keep going back.” Both Rock and Fingercuffs said that the best part of hashing is the extended community. With hashes all over the globe, travellers can easily plug into hashing communities wherever they go. Need a bit of fun in Europe, a couch to crash on in South America, or some travel advice in Africa? Just go to a local hashing website or Facebook page and tell ‘em you’re one of them! With the final festivities over, everyone packed up and returned to their normal lives. Some would commute south for another hash that day, others would go home for a nap, but most would just dissolve back into polite society. The lawyers, teachers, students, artists, military leaders, or whoever they happen to be; temporarily hanging up their racy codenames and transforming back into productive members of society, until the next hash.
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Shortly thereafter, several Koreans witnessed us frantically emerge from the bush with branches clinging to our clothes and hair, sweating, panting, swearing, and me wearing a toy T-Rex around my chest. Don’t ask.
www.groovekorea.com August 2016
time Saturdays at 10am location various locations blog koreahash.wordpress.com more info Most hashes usually require donations of $5 for drinks and snacks.
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Vloggers of the East Story by Dianne Pineda Photos from Sunny Dahye, Musa Gunawan's Instagram, Dylan Goldby
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unny isn’t your typical beauty YouTuber. Her name is an accurate indication of her disposition, with her videos exuding all things positive, from everyday tips like lazy day routines in Korea, beauty hauls, and date essentials, to more practical advice like travel guides and how to take down a pervert using Taekwondo. This Indonesian-based, Korean YouTube sensation has an average of over 100,000 video views, about 62,000 followers on Instagram and counting, and 200,000 plus YouTube subscribers. But things didn’t start off as all
unicorns and clouds for this power vlogger. “I was going through depression and bullying at school five years ago,” Sunny shares. “And I thought it was a great outlet for me to express myself and channel all that negativity into something more optimistic.” She has all the makings of an international YouTube star: tri-lingual (Indonesian, Korean, and English) with good looks and fun stories about beauty and fashion. But for Sunny, something was missing. “Well, my eyes have always been my complex growing up. I was bullied for having small eyes and really felt
From giving quick lazy-girl makeup guides, intricate Korean skin care tips, to telling the whole world about going under the knife, this vlogger offers a unique look at beauty – and keeps it real
like I didn't fit in anywhere and even though I don't go through it anymore, the complex was still there,” she says. That was when she decided to undergo plastic surgery at Banobagi Clinic, one of the top clinics in Gangnam, Seoul – and instead of hiding, denying, or blaming it on “weight loss” like others do, she shared the whole experience with her viewers. Pre-surgery prep, doctor consultations, leaving the operating room, a few months after her surgery – Sunny was honest and candid about it all. Instead of dodging “Did she or didn’t she?” questions, she decided to be upfront and gave viewers some practical tips, reviews, and information about plastic surgery. In fact, she even went for other procedures for a second time. “Yes, I knew I will be getting negative comments and attention for a bit after uploading the first video, but I mentioned in one of the comments that I did this with a good intention to share and educate people what plastic surgery is like. Thankfully after that, more positive comments came in and my subscribers were so supportive.” “As weird as it sounds, I am most proud of my plastic surgery journey videos. Most people would be embarrassed exposing themselves after going under the knife but I am happy that my videos are educating people and showing them what it looks and feels like.” She does have one important piece of advice, though: “Do it only if you really want to do it. Don't do it because of peer pressure or trends. We have only one face and one body. Treasure it.” With her solid number of followers and supportive viewers, opportunities have opened up for her to make the most out of her vlogging. Today, many beauty brands have gotten in touch with Sunny for collaborations, but she always tries to keep her audience in mind. She shares: “I generally have young viewers, I try to collaborate with affordable makeup brands and not high end ones. Even though it is a great opportunity to work with them, for
me my viewers are more important. I want to [produce] videos that are suitable for them not for me.” It’s true that there are several other YouTube stars out there, but what makes Sunny stand out (aside from her now bright purple hair) is her being true to herself. “I would say my genuineness of wanting to help people out there is the reason why I am here and still making videos until today. People appreciate helpful videos and I always try my best to share whatever I was going through online so I think it was the reason why people enjoy watching my videos.”
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sweet and tasty
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
Youtube www.youtube.com/user/sunnydahye Instagram @Sunnydahye
This YouTube sensation has many personalities, but only one mission: to teach the world about Korean language, culture, and food Korean, Professor Oh and her friends are all but willing to help. After all, her audience goes beyond love for K-Pop – they want to learn about Korea’s culture, travel, arts, and everything in between. And the gateway through all of that is the Korean language. Professor Oh’s advice? “The best way to learn any language is to live in the country of that language. Surround yourself with the natives and place yourself in a situation where you can only speak that language. If you go to Seoul and hang out with English speakers, your Korean skills will increase slowly. However, strictly hang out with natives and your Korean will expand exponentially.” Youtube www.youtube.com/user/sweetandtasty Instagram @SweetandtastyTV Twitter @SweetandtastyTV
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got to know her as the ever-reliable Professor Kim, but also as the multiple personalities she talks to. “It’s definitely a lot of work and it’s a team of one! I write, film, and edit all my videos. Depending on the type of content, I may have my mother and best friend review my script or look at my final video before it goes live, but the rest of the time it’s me, myself, and I,” she shares. But all that hard work pays off when she meets a happy fan or two, even in some “vulnerable” situations. “I’m happy to take a selfie with people who recognize me, but I do have to be extra mindful with my surroundings nowadays.” She shares about one funny incident, saying, “There was a time I was walking around naked at the Korean spa and I was recognized. But I was more amused than embarrassed. And then there was the time my friends and I were partying it up in Koreatown in LA. After six shots of soju, I went to the restroom to fix my wig when a fan recognized me. We took a drunken selfie together. About the wig… Earlier that day I had a haircut fail. My bangs were cut too short, so I bought a wig right after.” From teaching how to say “I miss you,” to useful everyday phrases and even making animal sounds in
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ometimes she’s Grandma Kim, other times she’s the fashionable ajumma Bongja; depending on her mood, she can also be the handsome guy with a goatee named Taek Wondo or a high pitched blonde girl. All these alter egos belong to Mina Oh, the founder and one-woman-team behind Sweet and Tasty TV, a YouTube channel that aims to teach the Korean language in English. Back in 2008, when she was a sophomore university architecture student, Mina posted a video about the Korean alphabet. There were no frills or fuss in the video – just her in her living room, a green fabric pinned to her wall, and her trusty laptop camera. Little did she know that moment would be the start of a passion project that led to 26 million views and more than 300,000 subscribers on YouTube. “My first Korean lesson was a small and humble contribution to the YouTube community after watching one too many cute cat videos and other random pixels,” Mina recalls. “I didn’t expect it to turn into a long-term project.” Pretty soon she was getting many requests to post more instructional videos, and so she branched out into doing travel vlogs and doing snack reviews in a bathtub. A little ingenuity and a huge sense of humor goes a long way, as she captured the attention of K-Pop lovers around the world. Thousands of fans not only
Celebrate Korean independence through film Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos by HanCinema
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www.groovekorea.com August 2016
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
ENTERTAINMENT
Three by Korea!
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orean Independence Day – or Gwangbukjeol, literally meaning “restoration of light day” – will celebrate the 71st anniversary of Korea’s liberation from Japanese rule, and with it comes a selection of films guaranteed to rouse the national spirit. The three big releases this month arrive in the form of an epic true-life period drama celebrating the life of a Korean princess, a disaster film exploring the unbreakable Korean spirit, and an all-female underdog sports drama designed to burnish national pride. The cinematic releases in August are the perfect opportunity to escape the turbulent monsoon season weather and delve deeper into Korean culture.
The Last Princess is based on the true heart-breaking story of Princess Deokhye, whose death in 1989 signalled the end of the Joseon era. Born in 1912 to Emperor Gojong and concubine Yang Gui-in, Deokhye was forcibly taken to Japan when she was 13 years old by the occupying Japanese imperial army. Losing both parents at an early age, Princess Deokhye saw the early onset of dementia at 18 and, after being forced to marry a Japanese aristocrat, spent much of her young life in mental institutions. After the Japanese army were defeated in 1945, she wasn’t initially allowed to return to Korea; after the decision was overturned in 1962, she lived out
While driving through the beautiful Korean countryside, a man passes through a tunnel which suddenly collapses on him, trapping him within. Fighting for his life amid the disaster, the man desperately attempts to survive long enough for the emergency services to dig through the rubble and reach him. Based on So Jae-won’s 2013 novel, The Tunnel looks set to be an intriguing film that champions the indomitable Korean spirit in
Did you know? This is not the first time actor Ha Jung-woo has been confined to a small space, nor terrorised by poor construction. In The Terror Live (2013), Ha plays a news anchor who is forced to continue presenting while an individual demands a presidential apology for construction disasters.
Take Off2 Release date August Directed by Kim Jeong-hyeon Starring Soo-ae, Oh Dal-soo, Oh Yeon-seo Distributed by Megabox Plus M
With the Winter Olympics fast approaching, Korea decides to enter a women’s ice hockey team in the competition. Yet with little funding and precious few athletes, the task is a daunting one. At his wits end, the coach puts together a group of outsiders – a banned short track skater, a North Korean refuge, a middle-aged housewife, and more – and forges them into a national team to
be proud of. Take Off 2 will undoubtedly be an unashamedly rousing and patriotic sports drama, and is perfectly timed for Korean Independence Day; the winter theme should also prove cooling in the oppressive summer heat. Having such a large female-centered cast is unfortunately still all too rare in Korean film, making RunOff a refreshing treat with its explorations of sisterhood, sexism, and drive to succeed on both personal and national levels Did you know? The original Take Off, about a team of wannabe ski jumpers, was a smash hit amongst audiences and became the second most watched film of 2009, accumulating over $52 million at the box office.
Film fans - remember to check The Korean Film Council (KOFIC) website regularly for updates on English subtitled screenings of Korean films occurring in Seoul. www.koreanfilm.or.kr/jsp/schedule/subtitMovie.jsp
www.groovekorea.com August 2016
Release date August Directed by Kim Seong-hoon Starring Ha Jung-woo, Bae Doo-na, Oh Dal-soo Distributed by Showbox/Mediaplex
the face of adversity, while simultaneously criticizing the country’s penchant for poor construction during rapid economic growth Despite the simple plot, there is much to be excited about with The Tunnel. Director Kim Seong-hoon is hot property in the film industry following the riveting thriller A Hard Day (2014), while A-list talent Ha Jungwoo (The Handmaiden) and Bae Doo-na (The Host) are currently two of the most gifted and accomplished actors working today.
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The Tunnel
Did you know? Director Heo Jin-ho is famous for crafting sensitive and romantic tales, many of which have been heralded as classics of Korean cinema. He debuted with the acclaimed Christmas in August (1998), followed by One Fine Spring Day (2001) and then his first partnership with actress Son Ye-jin in April Snow (2005).
ENTERTAINMENT
Release date August Directed by Heo Jin-ho Starring Son Ye-jin, Park Hae-il, Yoon Jae-moon Distributed by Lotte Entertainment
the rest of her years at Changdeok Palace. Period dramas set during the Japanese occupation of Korea have become increasingly prominent in recent years, and The Last Princess, based on the highly successful 2009 novel of the same name by Kwon Bi-young, looks set to continue the trend. Helmed by talented director Heo Jin-ho and featuring superstars Son Ye-jin in the lead role as the princess and Park Hae-il as a Korean independence fighter desperate to save her, The Last Princess looks set to be an epic tragedy that will likely strike a resonating chord with Korean audiences.
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
The Last Princess
ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
from
o t a c i a m ja l u o e s Singer strives to introduce more Koreans to reggae
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Story by Emma Kalka Photos by 3rd Bass
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or many reggae artists, working with the likes of the Marley family is just a dream. For Korean reggae artist Skull, it is a dream come true. The singer released his collaboration track “Love Inside” with Stephen Marley and music partner Haha this March and said that while it didn’t fare so well in Ko-
rea, it’s currently in the top 10 in Jamaica. “In Jamaica, the promotion usually takes three or four months. It’s not quick like in Korea… We released that song at the end of March and now we can see it on the Jamaica charts,” he said. “I always think that collaboration is really meaningful to us and meaningful to the Korean reggae market.”
ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
I want to introduce
that kind of “I feel like, wow, they realawesome reggae ly see me like their family… He artist to Korean didn’t need to stop by there, but people. At least, he stopped by and then says, my fans or reggae ‘What’s up?’ I was very, very fans or Korean happy,” he grins. people who are Skull hopes that by doing interested in music, Hopefully this newfound inthese collaborations, it can help now they recognize, terest in reggae will help “make encourage Korean music fans to ‘Oh, Skull and pie bigger” for Korean reggae open up to more Jamaican reggae Haha said Stephen the artists, so that some day they artists, adding that he does the Marley is dope, so can all share in the success. collaborations first of all because maybe he’s dope.’ His latest single is set to drop it’s his dream as a reggae artist this month, and Skull says unbut also for the Korean music like his last two tracks – which were geared scene. more towards the Jamaican audience and “I want to introduce that kind of aweincluded Patois – it is more for the Korean some reggae artist to Korean people,” he said market. He has many tracks ready to go and earnestly. “At least, my fans or reggae fans or plans to continue releasing single after single, Korean people who are interested in music, showing all different “vibes of reggae” from now they recognize, ‘Oh, Skull and Haha said dancehall to lovers’ rock, just so that there is Stephen Marley is dope, so maybe he’s dope.’ something for everyone. They are getting familiar with these great “I will keep releasing songs and maybe names and great artists.” you guys can choose. Maybe the next single, Ultimately, Skull hopes that it will help the some people love it and some people hate it. Korean reggae scene, which is small though But another single, another single, another still growing. He thinks one way that is cursingle. Maybe you can choose,” he laughs. rently helping is idol artists using reggae in Emma Kalka is a freelance writer who their music, like the recently released “Why runs the blog “Discovering the Korean UnSo Lonely” by Wonder Girls. “Some people derground” on Tumblr, which focuses on the will just like them, but some people, now they Korean underground music scene and comthink, ‘Oh, this is reggae music? This is very munity. good. I better Google more reggae music.’”
www.groovekorea.com August 2016
Bowl Sunday in L.A. and when Stephen called to say he would be late, many of the American staff said that he wasn’t going to show because it was game day. No one works on Super Bowl Sunday. “But he came to our location and we shoot together and his energy is very positive and energetic,” Skull says. “Me and Haha really felt happy. Cause you know, sometimes, we feel like, ah, he is a superstar so maybe he’s cocky. But he’s very humble.” Not only that, Spragga Benz, a well-known dancehall DJ, went out of his way to drop by the shoot on his way to the airport.
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And it’s not his only collaboration to be recently released. He dropped “Get Rich,” featuring Sizzla, at the end of May and said he has another big collaboration track set to come out in September, though he coyly evaded the question as to who it is with. “It’s still a secret,” he says with a laugh. He does admit that it is a big Korean artist, though not an idol. The dreadlocked singer confesses that he has a bucket list of Jamaican artists he hopes to someday collaborate with, including the likes of Damien Marley, Buju Banton, Capleton and Beenie Man. The last is performing at Seoul Soul Festival this month, and Skull says he hopes to have the chance to meet him there and hopefully check one more artist off his list. Meeting major Jamaican reggae artists was nothing short of “lucky,” as the 10-plus-year veteran of the Korean reggae scene puts it. His introduction to the Marley family came about two or three years ago when a school friend introduced his music to the Jamaican owner of his favorite restaurant in Canada. That owner happened to be friends with Rohan Marley and immediately said that he needed to introduce the two. Skull and Rohan exchanged numbers and began com- m u nicating long distance until Rohan came to visit Korea a year later and they met face-toface. Though that connection, Skull was introduced to Stephen Marley. For years, Skull asked Stephen to do a song with him – it didn’t happen until he sent him a track that Stephen liked. It’s an accomplishment that isn’t easily achieved by many artists, according to Skull, even other Jamaican artists. “Stephen Marley told me, ‘You are the first Asian artist that I’ve worked with.’ Because so many Asian artists really try to work with him, but he keeps saying no. But this time he said yes. Lucky me,” he says with a laugh. “I love the moment when Stephen said, ‘Skull, represent reggae and the Marley family in Korea.’ So now I represent him. That’s why he works with me.” And it’s that collaboration that Skull says helped him land his collaboration with Sizzla. He went to Jamaica in February to meet with music industry insiders, and many were willing to work with him because they respected that he had worked with Stephen Marley. “They know it’s really hard to work with him. Even in Jamaica, it’s a very big deal.” More than that, Skull is honored to work with these influential reggae musicians and to have them treat him like family. The music video for “Love Inside” was filmed on Super
ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
A dash of adventure wrapped up in music Southeast Asia has become the hotspot for regional music festivals Story by Emma Kalka Photos The Livescape Group, Rainforest World Music Festival
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or music lovers who also enjoy a little bit of adventure and travel, Asia has much to offer in terms of festivals in the upcoming months. From the jungle of Borneo, to the beaches of Bali, to the seas around Singapore, there is no shortage of destinations. And there is no shortage of music styles, with some festivals focusing on EDM, others traditional music, and still others just a little bit of everything. The following is just a small taste of the music festivals taking place in East and Southeast Asia.
website www.rwmf.net
Summer Sonic | Tokyo and Osaka, August 20-21 Every summer, Tokyo and Osaka co-host the two-day Summer Sonic music festival, with all the artists going back and forth between the two cities over the course of the festival. The two locations offer festival-goers the option of two different experiences, with the Osaka venue at Maishima Summer Sonic providing a smaller, slightly cozier feel than Tokyo’s massive layout at QVC Marine Field and Makuhari Messe. Also, the Tokyo site features more stages and more interactive areas, including a Beach Stage. Both sites feature performances by Underworld, Radiohead, Fergie, Alesso, Weezer, R5, The Offspring, Pentatonix, Panic! At the Disco, Charlie Pluth, Baby Metal Flo Rida, Mark Ronson, and many, many more. For the Osaka site, one-day tickets are 14,000 yen (KRW 160,000) and two-day tickets are 25,500 yen (KRW 291,000). There are also Platinum tickets available that offer exclusive access to VIP areas at each stage for 25,000 yen (KRW 285,000) per day. Tickets at the Tokyo site are 16,500 yen (KRW 188,600 won) for one day, 30,500 yen (KRW 348,600) for two days and 30,000 yen (KRW 342,900) for a Platinum ticket. website www.summersonic.com
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
The Rainforest World Music Festival is a unique world music experience set against the backdrop of the Borneo jungle. The fest brings musicians – many indigenous – from all over the world including Haiti, Malaysia, Indonesia, Colombia, Canada, Vietnam, and Greece. Also, many artists and musicians at the festival are native to Sarawak, the Malaysian state that lays claim to part of Borneo. The event includes educational workshops in the afternoon, with performances to take place at night. It also includes a number of interactive arts and crafts booths, food and drink stalls, and places to buy festival memorabilia and Sarawak souvenirs. The lineup includes Alena Murang from Borneo, Band Girl LKNS from Malaysia, Broukat from Syria, Chouk Bwa Libete from Haiti, Cimarron from Colombia, Derek Gripper from South Africa, Bol Arastra Beng Kulu from Indonesia, and Krar Collective from Ethiopia, among many others. Tickets are RM 120.00 (KRW 34,400) for one day and RM 320.00 (KRW 91,800) for three days until August 4. After that they are RM 140.00 (KRW 40,175) for one day and RM 380.00 (KRW 109,000) for three days. There is also currently a flight and hotel package to the festival that offers a discount available through Expedia.com
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Rainforest World Music Festival | Borneo, August 5-7
Ultra Beach Bali | Bali, September 15-16 For those who missed Ultra Korea in June – or just want another taste – the massive EDM festival is continuing its tour of the world and landing in the resort city of Bali this September. Ultra Beach Bali is set for Potato Head Beach Club, offering sun, sand, and hard-hitting EDM. The lineup has not yet been released by Ultra Worldwide, nor have the ticket prices; however, registration for early bird tickets is open. Last year’s festival included headliners Alesso and Skrillex, and this year’s lineup is sure to be strong as well. website www.ultrabali.com
website www.itstheship.com
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Hailed as Asia’s largest and the world’s second-largest EDM festival cruise, It’s The Ship is guaranteed to give EDM music lovers an experience to remember. Set on a luxurious Royal Caribbean International cruise liner over the course of four days, the festival is bringing together 60 EDM acts from all over the world, combined with a cruise vacation getaway. The ship sets sail from Singapore on November 4 and cruises to Penang, returning to Singapore on November 7. On board, the festival includes, for the first time in its three-year history, themed nights with a group of Australian DJs from Lucky Ent. kicking things off by hosting the “Get Lucky” stage on the first night, which includes Kate Foxx, Joel Fletcher, Mashd N Kutcher, Some Blonde, and Brooklyn, to name a few. Other acts include the debut of Sunnery James and Ryan Marciano’s concept show Sexy By Nature, and Armada Night with Andrew Rayel, Marlo, David Gravell, Khomba, and Ben Gold. Tickets for the festival include a four-day, three-night stay upon the ship, all meals including 24-hour room service, and complimentary use of most of the ship’s facilities. The cruise liner has 17 clubs, bars, and lounges; 15 decks, 10 whirlpools and pools; and a new expanded casino and onboard shops. Tickets vary from $588 to $5,888 per person, depending on the room type and how many people the room accommodates. The cabins vary from two people up to four people and from normal state rooms up to suites with balconies.
www.groovekorea.com August 2016
It’s the Ship | Singapore, November 4-7
ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
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Gimbab Records
Teleporting Sonic Soul Food to Seoul Story by Paul Keelan Photos by Gimbab Records
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n the past few years, Gimbab Records has been steadily garnering a solid reputation for itself amongst Seoul’s vinyl enthusiasts and concert aficionados. Apparent in both the cornucopia of indie vinyls stocked at Gimbab’s record shop in Hongdae and the impressive repertoire of musical acts that the company has booked, Gimbab Record’s founder Young-Hyuk’s (who goes by the English nickname John) arduous approach to the music business unwaveringly mirrors his genuine passion for the medium. In just a few years, Young-Hyuk’s earnest zeal for beloved American artists has resulted in their regular appearance in Hongdae. With an earnest love for music, Gimbab Records has already promoted a slew of excellent shows: St. Vincent, Mac DeMarco, Sun Kil Moon, Television (w/ Kiha & The Faces), Julia Holter, Ducktails, and Perfume Genius to name a few. These concerts have both cured the musical homesickness experienced by numerous expats and simultaneously pleased Korean fans longing to watch their transnational musical idols perform in the flesh. With a dogged work ethic and a tenacity to withstand the often-finicky music industry for the benefit of servicing music lovers, Young-Hyuk has improved the once hapless indie rock calendar in Seoul and gratified numerous indie
rock fanatics by doing so. Gimbab’s founder Young-Hyuk’s history in the music business is characterized by diversity. He was an employee in the marketing and new business department at Sony Music until 2012. While working for Sony, he started the first ever "Seoul Record Fair,” published a music magazine, and then began promoting concerts for popular artists like Beirut. YoungHyuk soon combined his promotional efforts with the help of Round & Round (a collective of Hongdae indie labels). His first booked show was around the same time he parted company with Sony. Put on in collaboration with Round & Round, this initial promotional gig was a concert featuring The Pains of Being Pure at Heart in February 2012. Thereafter, YoungHyuk found himself fielding many requests to book more concerts and to start a small label to release local albums. Soon Gimbab Records was founded, coined after Young-Hyuk’s cat’s name and the widely popular Korean sushi roll. The record company’s first LP release was Glen Hansard’s solo album Rhythm & Repose in August 2012. After his search for an officeslash-vinyl warehouse fortuitously led to a first-floor business space, Young-Hyuk soon realized he had discovered an ideal spot in Hongdae where he could both work and allow local music lovers to hang out, listen, and buy
records. By August 2013, he’d combined a collection of his personal favorite records with an array of imported albums from friends' labels and a small record shop was opened. A scene soon germinated. Between 2014 and 2015, Gimbab began to increase its stature, booking one great show after another. Recent standout concerts billed by Gimbab Records have included popular acts like Perfume Genius, U.S. Girls, and Destroyer. Perfume Genius, fronted by solo artist Mike Hadreas of Seattle, came to Seoul this past winter and impressed with a set comprised of songs mostly from their latest album Too Bright, a brazen expression of queer identity. With confidence, vulnerability, and a powerful ethos, Perfume Genius’s performativity and artistry, relocated for an evening in Hongdae, showcased the legitimacy of Gimbab Record’s recent lineup. It is clear that Young-Hyuk favors substance, authenticity, and aesthetic sensibility over pure economic gain. U.S. Girls, led by the Illinois-born and Toronto-based artist Meghan Remy, came to Seoul in early Spring this year. With a mix of hazy doo-wop, lush vocals, and grooving
website gimbabrecords.com
ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
www.groovekorea.com August 2016
into producing a memorable concert. Shadowing booking agents, techies, and promoters, I slowly fostered an appreciative knowledge for the background efforts responsible in putting on an unforgettable show. Pondering over all the facets in which Young-Hyuk oversees, it is easy to ascertain that he has an unglamorous yet crucial job. It is not always easy to be on the business side of the music industry. Artists are notorious for preaching idealist politics entailing unrealistic anti-capitalistic pretenses. But underlying this dogma is the glaring reality that the music industry is fundamentally a business. A promoter willing to risk capital, to dedicate themselves to the entrepreneurial side of the arts, and to publicize nuanced musical preferences is an invaluable figure that informs the musical By successfully zeitgeist. importing musical Living in Seoul, many expats specialties to often feel alienated from their Korea, Gimbab inent acts, and the keenness to homeland: from comforting Records has rent high-end venues with exfoods, family, and friends. For attenuated emplary production value, Gimmany, the paucity of available a gloomy facet bab’s concert experiences sync and familiar live music is a tough of expat life, at maximum amplitude. reality. By successfully importteleporting the ing musical specialties to Korea, In the future, Gimbab Record’s musical equivalent main objective is to continue Gimbab Records has attenuated of home cooking a gloomy facet of expat life, teleto deliver artists to Seoul into the Seoul porting the musical equivalent audiences. Young-Hyuk plans metropolis. of home cooking into the Seoul to keep booking at a steady pace, metropolis. With its growing reestimating that he’ll promote sume of fantastic concerts, they are building a about 4-5 acts per year. With a fairly meager reputation as a beloved promotional company indie rock constituency in Seoul, the goal and booking agency in the Seoul indie scene. is to simply appease famished aficionados. With a founder-owner who exhibits a sincere Young-Hyuk is the first to acknowledge that zeal for music, the tenaciousness to book em- the local music scene is not something that can be expanded easily. He is regularly forced to listen to mainstream chat in the entertainment industry and business world about how the music market is dying. But as long as he sees passionate young music lovers at the Gimbab Records store, local venues, and at the annual Seoul Record Fair, he believes it is his prerogative to offer concerts at reasonable prices. Hopefully, Young-Hyuk noted, with incentives aimed particularly at younger people — including student discounts for both records and shows — a new generation will slowly materialize that can at the very least sustain the small independent music scene for decades to come.
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dance moves, U.S. Girls seamlessly conjured mesmeric melodies. From their psychedelic songs to some 70’s-era disco flavored ditties, U.S. Girl’s bewitched the Hongdae crowd with an enchanting idiosyncratic style. The varied range of rock n’ roll allusions prevalent in the U.S. Girls fuzzy lo-fi DIY sound alone -- sprinkled with infectious yet muddied Motown surges, handclaps, and drum machines —highlighted the eclecticism of Gimbab Record’s aesthetic range. A more recent headliner of a Gimbab Records gig was Destroyer, who played Hongdae’s V-Music Hall in April. From the show’s lurid yellow special edition posters to the golden tickets designed to parallel the poster’s iconography, the assiduous attention to detail was obvious on multiple levels. With topnotch equipment, expert techies, and sound production, Gimbab Records proved with the Destroyer show the caliber of their sound crew. From the engineers to the stagehands, the show was seamless. The sonic calibrations conducted by the soundboard engineer can be equally important to the band itself in creating auditory bliss for concertgoers. Destroyer’s musicians perfectly blended with the vocals in the sound mix, each sharp note exquisitely harmonizing with singer Dan Bejar’s sanguine lyricism. The high-end equipment and tech team captured the poetic and jazzy vibe of Destroyer with crystalline transparency, simultaneously conveying Beyar’s crisp vocal delivery with utmost limpidity. Growing up in a close-knit music scene, I often observed the unacknowledged work that goes
Redemption Excellence Storylines to follow in Korea’s quest for Olympic gold in Rio
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
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Story by Luke Butcher Photos by Rio 2016 (www.flickr.com/photos/rio2016games)
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99 women, with the aim of capturing 12 gold our years after reaching a recordmedals. high fifth place in the medal So who will be plastered all over your standings at the 2012 London screens over the next few weeks? Kim Bo-bae Olympics, Korea’s athletes are and her merry men and wompreparing for their fifth straight en will be looking to continue top 10 finish in Rio. However, Football will the nation’s total dominance in even though we are only days remain the most what has traditionally been a away, the 16-day event is likely to keep gold mine for the country—arunder significant threat from Koreans up late at chery. Last time, Koreans took strikes, facilities that are barely night... the enticing three of the four gold medals finished, and the threat of the possibility of available and currently sit atop Zika virus. This may not be the a final or bronze the historic medal table by a dismost well prepared Olympics medal match tance. Although Kim is the only in history, but Korea’s team are replay against surviving member of the team ready to stir up media hype Korea’s favourite from 2012, the new blood will once again and bring home rival, Japan, will face high expectations and another medal haul. be enough to spice nothing but a medal will do. With Seoul exactly twelve up the competition. Another athlete fachours ahead of Rio, catching up ing high pressure will be with Korea’s or your own counrhythmic gymnast Son Yeon-jae. The try’s exploits is not going to be easy for those 22-year-old became part of the national of us who enjoy our beauty sleep. SBS will be consciousness in London when only a the main place to watch the action, though slip with the clubs meant she narrowly the media will have fewer athletes to focus on missed out on becoming the first ever this time. Korea will be sending its smallest Korean medalist in the discipline. She team of athletes since 1984, just 99 men and
has since been improving every season to try and make amends this time around. She has come a long way in four years and is now a well-recognized face, so expect to see every single moment of her performance analyzed and scrutinized by announcers who have become gymnastic experts overnight. It is fairly reasonable to expect the cybersphere to explode in conspiracy theories if she misses out this time. Speaking of conspiracy theories and controversy, Park Tae-hwan may yet get an opportunity to take his place on the starting blocks in the pool. The popular swimmer was banned in January 2015 and stripped of his right to represent Korea at these Olympics
the country last year, the team has left no skin koung will be hoping for a repeat that will surely find her and her team at the most popu- uncovered with their Zika-proof uniforms. Originally the new style was met with ridilar searches on Naver for at least 24 hours. cule, but as the virus has continued to spread If you saw anything in the world news across the country it is beginning to look like about a Korean at the London Olympics, it was a surprisingly sensible idea, especially since probably the remarkable scenes in women’s a number of athletes have pulled out due to fencing. Korean fencer Shin A-lam was left safety fears and Jamaican runlurched on the piste for nearly ner Kemar Bailey-Cole contractan hour in a flood of tears after Kim Bo-bae and ed the virus when training. It a highly controversial semi-fiher merry men will be interesting to see if the nal defeat. Shin will be eager to and women will be longer clothing will have any un-do the injustice she still feels looking to continue negative effects on performance. she was subjected to in the indithe nation’s total Zika is not the only issue Rio vidual and team epee, where she dominance in what is facing, with repeated warnwill join a host of former medalhas traditionally ings that facility construction ists who will be hoping to shock been a gold mine is down to the wire and with the fencing world again as they for the countrythreats of protests from thoudid four years ago, when only Itarchery. sands of workers in the city. For aly came out with more medals now, it seems the games will go from the piste. Expect the narraahead despite all the problems, and the Kotive to be set and replays of Shin’s sit-in protest rean team will hope to put all of the organito be burnt into your eyes in the build-up to this zational issues and intense pressure coming one; if she does take a medal, the emotion is from home to the back of their minds in their likely to be the rawest of all. quest for gold. Come back as champions, On a side note, in the build-up over the last and money-spinning variety show few months you may have seen the Korean back with Olympic uniforms splashed on your Face- appearances await. Come nothing, and the public will not be book feeds. Possibly due to the scars still felt too forgiving. in the country after the MERS panic that hit
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
after being found guilty of doping. However, he has since had the Olympic ban lifted by the international Court of Arbitration for Sport (CAS), who accused the Korean swimming authorities of punishing Park twice for a single crime. At the time of writing, he has won his place back to resume his rivalry with Chinese sensation Sun Yang. If he does make it into the pool, expect all eyes to be resting on the young man and expecting him to restore his pride. A medal would mean redemption, but anything else will likely see him left in a deep pool without a paddle. In team sports, football will remain the most likely to keep Koreans up late at night if the team progresses to the medal matches. Only the men have qualified and the teams are allowed to have only three players over the age of 23, meaning the big names are likely to be missing. However, the enticing possibility of a final or bronze medal match replay against Korea’s favorite rival Japan will be enough to spice up the competition. Similarly, women’s volleyball team, who are widely expected to have a decent chance of picking up a medal, have been drawn in the same pool as their neighbours to the east. They met a matter of months ago with the Koreans coming out on top, and star player Kim Yeon-
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and the Threat of Zika
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Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
Spotlight
Tattoo Art in Korea A look at the art genre that is struggling for wider acceptance
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
Ten years ago Kil Jun, later the founder of the Seoul Ink Tattoo Studio and tattoo enthusiast, studied Western Painting at Chung-Ang University. However, the curriculum offered Kil Jun no fulfillment and his urge for more than “just” painting could not be quenched: “I thought that art at university was boring,” he says, “so I started learning about tattooing.” But it wasn’t long before he recognized that there was a long way to go from oil paintings on canvas to the fine vibrations of a tattoo machine. As Kil Jun tried to learn how to make tattoos, he ran against an obstacle – there was no place where he could do it. “I asked so many tattoo guys – about the pigment, about the needles, about how to get a tattooing machine. But no one knew everything,” he remembers. Sometimes the best way turns out to be the most distant one, and so Kil Jun decided to complete his tattoo apprenticeship in the United States. There, he traveled for several years, learned about the art, participated in tattoo conventions, became a certified tattoo master, shared his knowledge with others, met and worked with the legendary tattoo artist Billy Eason (named as one of 100 most influential people in the tattoo world) and learned how to
www.groovekorea.com August 2016
The Three Musketeers of Ink and Needle
teach tattooing using every trick in the book. “In the US”, Kil Jun says, “people have to go through a two-year apprenticeship, they have to learn everything from the beginning, how to create a design, how to handle the tattooing machine, how to take care of sanitary issues.” Hence after coming back to Korea, he was in possession of profound new skills and was able to establish his own studio. Soon after, Kil Jun contacted his former fellow students from Chung-Ang University, whom he knew were interested in becoming tattooists. One of them was Arang, a petite young lady, who was then one of the very few Korean female tattoo artists around. Drawing her whole life and graduating in Korean Traditional Painting, she grew up far away from ink and needles, but used to search the internet for images of tattoos. Similar to Kil Jun, she found no satisfaction in her studies: “When you study at a Korean college, it is like being in a factory: everyone has to follow the same steps, there is no creativity in that,” Arang says. Still the classical education did not go to waste - you can trace elements from traditional Korean paintings in Arang’s work and her brush-stroke tattoos recall black ink paintings of the old masters, where the heavy brush leaves confident but airy lines. Similar to Kil Jun and Arang, Camoz, the third in the trio, also looks back at the classical education he received at art college. Although studying Western art, his path to the tattoo studio went through custom paintings on motorbikes and graffiti. “I was looking for a perfect canvas to express my art,” he explains, “and the best canvas is the skin.” Surprisingly he found more freedom in tattoo art compared to the graffiti he used to do: “While I was making graffiti, I could not paint things that I wanted. [But before tattooing] you can change the image together with the client in every consultation.”While on one hand the tattoo studios offer freedom of expression for both artists and clients, on the other, tattooing in Korea continues to struggle with numerous issues.
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ld School, New School, Black and Grey, American Traditional and Neo-Traditional, Irezumi, Biomechanical, Lettering, Trash Polka and many more – tattooing experiences have transformed from a fringe group hobby to a genre of contemporary art, with many different styles branching out and gaining wider acceptance. A new type of tattooists is taking over the field – smart young people with a classical education in the fine arts, sound apprenticeships, technical knowledge, and passion. Groove Korea met with three famous Korean tattoo artists for a chat about the challenging and changing art of tattooing, a look back, as well as a glimpse forward, at this controversial subject.
Spotlight
Story by Barbara Bierbrauer Photos by Steve Smith Translated by Duke Raoum and Angie
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Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
Spotlight
Spotlight Your first tattoo: What is it, who drew it and do you still like it? The “Foo Dog” or “the Unicorn Lion” on my left arm was my first tattoo, done by Yushi [Editor’s note: a famous Korean tattoo artist, now living and working in Los Angeles]. I am very satisfied with the tattoo, and when I first got it, it felt as if a new chapter of my life was written.
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
Vovo Guitarist of the punk band “No Brain”
Why is it that punk musicians are so strongly linked to tattoos? Punk musicians were one of the first artists who were not shy of expressing themselves. But nowadays almost no music genre can be imagined without tattooed artists. Musicians feel a catharsis of freedom and a secretion of endorphin when they express themselves and are recognized by what and how they express themselves. It is often said that getting tattoos can become addictive. Would you agree? I cannot agree more. When you get something you like inked on your body, there are no words to describe the feeling; and you feel happier as you get more tattoos. I would surely love to get more tattoos but it was so painful when I was getting the koi fish tattoo on my side that I am still not ready for another one. What do you suggest to those considering getting a tattoo? Once you get your first tattoo, you will want to get more. So try to look at the big picture before getting your first tattoo. And just do it. Just do the things you like!
www.groovekorea.com August 2016
countries, is supposed to separate the wheat from the chaff. “Those people who start makAlthough the growing popularity and acing tattoos by themselves, without any backceptance of tattoos in Korean society is a more ground knowledge, they have to quit if they positive trend, it creates some unexpected face a problem because they don’t know how complications: tattooing without medical lito solve it. Easy start, easy quit.” However, as censes is illegal in Korea and there is no certilong as the status of tattooists is not legally safe fication for tattoo artists. Basically anyone can and the scene is not supervised, there will alopen an underground tattoo studio and start ways be a danger for both tattooinking tattoos illegally. This illeists and their clients. gality brings huge disadvantages A new type of Camoz, Arang and Kil Jun for customers – there is no guarantee that they are paying for tattooists is taking wish this would change; they over the field would appreciate being able to the skills and knowledge of tatsmart young people work legally, without fearing any too masters. There is no authorwith a classical consequences for operation in ity that can guarantee technical education in the an underground studio. Also the knowledge or sanitation rules fine arts, sound furtive status of the tattoo scene for allergology and dermatoloapprenticeships, in Korea and the recent crackgy – all required for safe work technical down on tattoo conventions is in a tattoo studio. As Kil Jun knowledge, and negatively influencing the depoints out, “You are not drawing passion. velopment of tattoo skills and on a canvas - you can mess up art. Over the last few decades, somebody’s life,” but the lack of tattoo conventions worldwide have developed specialized education and qualifications is not to exhibit in places where artists go for the hindering young tattooists from opening their newest trends and machines, pigments and own studios and attracting customers. the exchange of knowledge, both technically “I sometimes ask [other tattoists] ‘Can you and artistically. While companies send their fix your machine?’ and they say, ‘No, because employees to national workshops and artists I don’t care’” Kil Jun says. For some of these attend master classes and exhibitions, the tattooists, the number of followers on Facetattoo conventions are a bit of everything – book and Instagram is proof enough of the places to demonstrate, share, learn, and teach. quality of their work. “For me tattooing is more But Korean tattooists are denied this possibillike life, but for some people it is just fashion. ity, and that, sadly, has a negative impact on Tattooing a client’s body is for life, it’s a life the skills of some and the development of the art, [but] not many people think like that.” whole Korean tattoo scene. An apprenticeship, which is required in many
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Illegal and secluded
Spotlight Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
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More than just a painting Using skin as a canvas requires respect and skill. “Every skin is different,” Arang says. “It reacts differently to tattooing as skin tones are different, some heal very fast, some swell a lot during a tattoo session, some people take the pain very well, some are very sensible, and for some, the healing process is very different and the outcome can be different, and not as expected.” This is what differs from oil or watercolor paintings, where a skilled master can choose a canvas to produce an expected outcome. Arang is following current trends in the Korean art scene. Certain artists who cannot find fulfillment in academic drawing – the same struggle faced by her and Kil Jun – are melding classical paintings with other paintings, like Kwon Ki Beom’s pieces. “I like [his] work,” Arang says. “He mixes formal oriental painting with other [elements] of arts.” Kwon Ki Beom, who started with paintings of flower motifs, later investigated the conflict between civilization and nature in his video works, and is one of Korea’s most modern artists. Pushing the borders of his art further by involving new ideas and subjects in his installations, he has started moving away from pictures which can be hung on the wall towards complex artworks that, besides their visuals, can involve other senses, such as sound and touch, to change the exhibition visitor’s experience
phenomenon, tattoos get influenced by othfrom being a mere viewer to participating in er cultural spheres. “Mainly because of the the artwork itself. fashion business, a tattoo looks more like jewThe fine arts education received by Kil Jun, elry, not art. Some people, who are generally Arang and Camoz follows a trend of the tattoo against tattoos might agree to such body art.” industry worldwide. These tattooists come out Another trend that creates hype in the West is of the art closet and attract other artists to cresteampunk and biomechanical tattoos, which ate a new modern art trend. Still, although tatdo not have many followers in Korea “because toos are already relatively commonplace, with it is only impressive on a big scale,” Camoz 23% of women and 19 % of men tattooed in the says, and many Koreans still choose to have USA (as of 2012), tattoos have an aura of recktattoos that can be covered. lessness and coolness that attracts more and The Seoul Ink artists are at pains to point more followers compared to other art forms. out that the decision to get a tatAlthough there is no official data too should not be taken lightly available about the number of and that the tattooist should be tattooed Koreans, its popularity is growing. As Arang observes, tattooing without chosen carefully. “It is a wholmedical licenses ly different world of art comthere are many more Koreans getting tattoos: “If talking about is illegal in Korea pared to any other.” Camoz says and there is no “[There has to be] a connection international clients, it is about certification for and faith between the client 50-50, but 90-10 [men to womtattoo artists. and the tattoo master. Drawing en] if speaking about Korean is a private thing, but when you people.” Also the willingness to are tattooing, there is a link beget a tattoo on a publicly visible tween you and your client.” While 10 years ago area of skin is different: “Korean females get a many clients copied famous tattoo motifs from tiny tattoo that they can cover up completely,” celebrities, or, as Kil Jun remembers, “People states Arang. wanted to have the same tattoos – letters, tribSpeaking about newest trends in the Koal or celebrities’ tattoos - copied work. Many rean tattoo scene, Camoz identifies some of people cover them up now.” Custom designs, the most popular designs: “It is old school, unique artistic work for everyone, are now the Japanese and mini tattoos. Some very small, prevailing trends. abstract tattoos with very thin lines can be The quality, the new technologies, the called trendy in Korea.” As any other social
Spotlight Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
Mr. Tyfoon Rapper, Songwriter, Producer and Biker
What do your tattoos mean to you? Back in the day when I first got tattoos, they meant a lot to me. But now most tattoos mean little, while some still do. They are the reflections of what I am currently feeling or thinking. What is your favorite tattoo genre? Old school and black and grey would be my favorite. Old school tattoos, which are colorful and hard to get tired of, are the foundation of the other tattoo genres. And I also love that there are so many ways that black and grey tattoos can be done: less detailed Chicano tattoos, very detailed realistic tattoos, and many more.
Why would you sometimes cover your tattoos? It is true that getting tattooed is [not] acceptable to certain people, especially for older people, and they might even feel uncomfortable seeing others’ tattoos. But the reason that I wear long sleeved shirts to cover my tattoos when I meet with my parents and family is to show respect to what my parents and the family believe in, [not] because they feel uncomfortable.
www.groovekorea.com August 2016
passion, the experienced background and deft skills – all of these factors have contributed to the rise of tattooing as a new art form. In the West, the tattoo scene successfully interacts with other art forms – car and clothes designs, graffiti, music and performance art. It puts the human in the center, transforming the viewer of art into an art subject and the tattooed into art objects. While many Korean tattoo artists are in no way inferior to their contemporaries in the West, they suffer from culturally dependent difficulties and long for more freedom of expression.
What should be considered before getting a tattoo? I have never once regretted getting a tattoo in my life, but I did regret getting tattoos from certain people. Since tattoos lasts a lifetime, it is very important to get tattoos from the best artists you can find. Therefore, although I am planning to get more tattoos, I will take my time looking for the right artists for the right tattoos; they will be the same classic black and grey tattoos and colorful old school tattoos.
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How many and what kind of tattoos do you have? I don’t really know the number of tattoos that I have, but I got tattoos on my whole left arm, part of my right arm, chest, stomach, and calves. Most of them are black and grey, Chicano, and old school tattoos.
FOOD & DRINK Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)
www.groovekorea.com August 2016 48
How We Eat Here Reflections on Eating Habits and the Expat Life Story by Charlotte Hammond Photos by Kaegan Saenz
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n a past life I was a kindergartener. My key duties began with an afternoon bus ride to Tootin Hills Elementary School (yes, the real name of the school) but the journey from home was always preceded by lunch with mom. It was an important routine to me, as routine tends to be for most young kids, and like most 6-year-olds I craved repetitive meals. I would request "a melted tortilla with cheese" in the culturally neutered language of a white suburban child craving a Kraft Singles quesadilla lunch. I would lean my chin on the kitchen counter and watch the glowing insides of the toaster oven. The appearance of the orange bubbling ooze told me to alert mom that my lunch was ready. Sometimes on these occasions, Mom, hawkishly watching the clock, would stuff the half moon of cheese and tortilla into a paper towel and shuffle me to the bus stop. Twenty two and a half years later, I am more or less educated regarding Mexican food. I’m an independent who is in between ownership of toaster ovens (though I am getting married, and am inclined to put a tiny toaster oven on my registry). These days, I prefer burritos. But if I order a quesadilla, I prefer it to have shrimp inside, with mango or pineapple as a bonus. Being that I live in Korea, thousands of miles from the life I lived as a six-year-old (and sixteen-
year-old), Mexican food is not something I can easily or regularly get for lunch. And that’s okay. I have a new way of eating now. This isn’t about my evolution as a Mexican food eater but about the many lives I’ve lived as an eater, period: and now, as I’m about to leave Korea to return to the United States, I want to memorialize how Korea has changed my eating, palette, and self-nourishing routines. When I came to Korea, soup was something I had when I was sick or if everyone in my former New York office was “grabbing” (as we Americans do) lunch from Au Bon Pain. I liked spicy food but was still more of a “medium to mild” level girl. I had never eaten rice for breakfast. This is not to say I wasn’t eating Asian food. My college and post-college self couldn’t get enough. I went for Thai and Japa-
Now, as I’m about to leave Korea to return to the United States, I want to memorialize how Korea has changed my eating, palette, and self-nourishing routines.
nese most avidly, but Vietnamese and Chinese foods sometimes prevailed. I had yet to meet a dish of noodles that didn’t enthrall me, and I willed my fingers to functionally wield the chopsticks that funneled them to my gullet. Pre-2012, Korean food was still under the radar for most Americans. I had ducked into suburban Korean places at the suggestion of friends, but it was all bibimbap, barbecue, and fried rice. The “safe” Korean dishes didn't really leave an impression and by the time life took me to Korea, I was essentially venturing into a personal gastronomic unknown. In 2013, I began to evolve into a different eater. In the mornings, I shifted my quotidien fried egg onto a pile of rice yielded by a chirping, red and white machine. Days I could have doengjang soup with it were even better.
FOOD & DRINK
Ocean Water A tropical blue drink for the end of summer
Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)
Cocktail Of The Month
Photo and cocktail by Bobby Kim
1.5 oz. Coconut Infused White Rum 0.75 oz. Blue Coconut Liqueur Mix 0.5 oz. Lemon Juice 0.5 oz. Lime Simple Syrup 1 oz. Lemongrass Soda Orchid Flower (for garnish) Served in a Collins Glass with Crushed Ice
This one’s definitely a “porch pounder.” Shout out to Sonic Drive-In for the inspiration behind this cocktail. This icy cold concoction will keep you cool and level headed while fighting with the blistering summer heat. Its bluey, coconutty, refreshing goodness make this perfect for rooftop drinking. One of seven new gems on the Summer 2016 signature menu at Southside Parlor. Come and take it!
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Bread, my all-time favorite food, had become an indulgence, something I treated myself to on the way home from work, scarfing it in mouthfuls from the bag. I began to notice that in winter I could no longer tolerate drinking cold water and began filling my mug with warm or hot—bless those omnipresent Coway machines—and drinking it slowly through workday afternoons. That same year I had my first bite of glistening, yellow-tinged Korean pizza. Of course, dyed-in-the-wool Northeasterner that I am, I scoffed. I stifled a shudder. I walked past the window stickers of Domino's Korea and stared slack-jawed at pizzas covered with seafood, corn, sweet potatoes, and mayonnaise. As I write this now, I have 22 days left in Korea, and I have plans next week to procure a pie from Pizza Hut Korea with that now-irresistible starchy ring of cheese and pureed sweet potato. I may even get it with shrimp, too. Am I converted? No! Actually, maybe yes? Korean pizza, for better or for worse, has become a part of me. I am drawn to food rituals and Korean food has no shortage of them. Chicken and beer after a hard work day (or just because)! Jeon and makgeolli when it pours. A steaming pot of samgyetang on a hot summer day. Tteokkbokki at your birthday party—a junkier alternative to the traditional seaweed soup which I can rationalize because my mother is not Korean! Imagining giving up these rituals, ones I adopted in my temporary home, is one of the most heart-wrenching aspects of leaving. And yet, there are parts of me as an eater that refused to budge these past few years. I cannot complete a meal with only a thimble-sized cup of water. My body demands hydration. I will get up eleven times during a meal to hit the Coway, and there is nothing I can do about it. I’ve tried resisting to no avail. There is no pleasure in eating when one’s tongue turns into Emory board after a few bites. Also, I am undoubtedly on Team Regular-Sized Napkins. Fresh cream icing is and always will be worthless in comparison to buttercream. This is written in my DNA and cannot be amended. If I never eat another “milk cake” again it will be too soon. I will, however, miss the Paris Baguette cheesecake even if consuming it thousands of miles from NY. In my next life, I will eat sandwiches for lunch often because I have always believed they are the perfect midday meal. I have missed the salacious Italian deli sandwich with a passion. I will bake cookies and cupcakes which I abandoned doing in Korea. I will (still) be able to buy and eat all sorts of bread but there will be abundant, more affordable blueberries and Three Buck Chuck and nearly every roast of coffee under the sun. But no chestnut makgeolli. But no fish-shaped red bean ice cream. No chi-mac joint that is appropriately dingy and un-Americanized. I will miss living in Korea and savor any chance I get to taste pieces of it and reminisce about the past life I had the privilege to lead.
T
he quintessential American eat, the hamburger. At its base, such a simple thing, just a bun and a ground beef patty. It's kind of amazing that such a simple thing can be fodder for so much foodie fighting. Luckily, a new argument for the Seoul hamburger debate has hit the meat grinder and its name is Downtowner. It’s a solid argument for people searching for a northeastern NYC, a la Shake Shack-style, burger. In other words, Downtowner keeps it simple, serving up juicy, basically-topped burgers. If one were to look for it (and you should if you're reading this), it is tucked away in an upcoming pocket neighborhood down below the main drag between Itaewon and Hangangjin Stations, and just behind the Hyundai Card Music Library. Fittingly, considering its more upmarket surroundings, Downtowner has a clean and modern approach, a sort of anti-greasy spoon vibe. Their burgers, however, are as delicious as they are affordable, and the restaurant's popularity can be seen in its amount of photos on Instagram.
The neighborhood in question is in the Hannam-dong district, but it’s not comprised of the opulent cafes of the sort that grace the UN Village. No, these streets are a collection of fashionably small restaurants and cafes that manage to seem inviting and uninviting at the same time. The type of places you want to spend all day in, but your neuroses tells you maybe you shouldn’t. That’s what makes Downtowner so inviting. It’s pocketed in this sort of neighborhood, but it’s squirreled away and hidden, and then boom: it’s bright and colorful, and their giant, 90s font, neon sign is strangely inviting. Especially after passing a cafe-bakery where
Since Downtowner is in a neighborhood which this author expected to be eye-wateringly expensive, the bordering-on-cheap prices at Downtowner were a pleasant surprise. In fact, the prices seemed almost too good for the burgers to be of any sort of quality. However, this author was in for a shock because these burgers are a great value. The cheeseburger weighs in at KRW6,800 and is cooked medium well in a soft bun with thin leaves of romaine, a tomato slice, and their house sauce, which is that wonderfully widespread Thousand Island plus some mystery ingredient sauce. In short, it’s a sauce that's great on burgers.
Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)
FOOD & DRINK
The avocado burger is the star of Downtowner… every single person that has chosen to eat with the author has ordered it, and most of them have been so selfishly into their avocado burgers that they refused to share with the author. people share an emptied out sauna pool as their seating and congregating area, or any number of knick knack shops that look as if they have nothing for sale. In contrast to all this, Downtowner is refreshingly straight-forward and lacking pretense.
Downtowner A hidden burger gem in Hannam-dong
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Story by Jason Newland Photos by Hannah Green
Uncovering the city’s most irresistible destination dishes Photo and cocktail by Jordan Redmond
Food ●●●●○ Value ●●●●○ Ambiance ●●●●○ Service ●●●●● Overall ●●●●○
When’s the last time you went to Taco Amigo? Last week? Last year? Never? If you’re like this reviewer, maybe you had your head turned by “higher-minded” Mexican food pursuits and forgot your roots, forgot about all that glorious “best burrito in Korea” you had when you first came here five years ago. Maybe you needed a Van Damme-style taco eating montage or, more truthfully, some fortuitous mistiming of a pop-up to rediscover what you already knew — that Taco Amigo slings the finest wet burrito in town. This fat baby is jammed full of your choice of meat--but doubled(!!)-as this is a double meat burrito. This reviewer went with chorizo (which was fine) but you could just as easily put bat meat inside this thing and it’d likely still be delicious. Pointlessness of the meat aside, this burrito is all about the salsa roja which is piquant yet packs some wonderful heat, the kind of spicy that makes your ears warm and sweat congregate on the side of your nose. You’ll be scooting the remains of your tortilla and burrito filling all around your plate trying to find a fitting vessel to soak up the final puddles. Lesson here: don’t forget what you know and eat more often at Taco Amigo. time 12pm-10pm ADD 130-34 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul tel 02-749-5263
Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)
Bite of the mont h
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Red Sauce Burrito
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ADD Itaewon-ro 42-gil 28-4, Yongsan-gu, Seoul tel 070-8820-3696
FOOD & DRINK
The other burgers include a double for KRW9,800, a bacon cheese for KRW7,800, a double bacon for KRW11,800, and an avocado for KRW9,300. The avocado burger is the star of Downtowner. The author has not ordered it any of the times he’s been there, but it’s the star. It’s on every table. Every single person that has chosen to eat with the author has ordered it, and most of them have been so selfishly into their avocado burgers that they refused to share with the author. However, the last time the author made it to Downtowner for one more burger test before writing this article, his co-eater offered half of her avocado burger to him in exchange for half of his precious bacon cheese. After taking one bite of the avocado burger, the author realized two things: the avocado burger is an example other burgers should aspire to be with its heaping piles of buttery avocado and the unexpected sauteed onions, and that he’d made a small but delicious mistake by ordering other burgers from Downtowner. Downtowner is increasing in popularity daily, but you can still drop in and grab a table without waiting. The author highly recommends you do so before the waits become unbearable. The burger is a solution for people looking for a simple burger but one that tastes more complex than any of the fast food options. It’s definitely in the Shake Shack vein so don’t go in expecting InN-Out or Five Guys. Regardless, there are better burger joints in Seoul for those two styles of burgers. But if it’s a higher quality Shake Shack-style burger you’re looking for then Downtowner is currently the place to find it.
An Appia Meal is Hard to Find Modern American cuisine worth seeking out
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Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)
FOOD & DRINK
Story by Andy Hume photos by Kaegan Saenz
petizer; crunchy and crispy on the outside, but airy and light on the inside with no stodgy filler, it’s served with a delicious tomato aioli and some well-judged red cabbage slaw. Some of the centerpiece main dishes require pre-ordering due to the preparation t’s not so very long ago that sometime required to make them. If Appia’s sigone proposing to open a top-quality nature roast chicken is any guide, it’s a bit foreign bistro in the back streets of of pre-planning that’s well worth the effort. Itaewon would have been politely Brined for twelve hours before roasting, the recommended to book some sessions with a resulting bird is a gorgeous deep chestnut good analyst. Some old-timers may lament brown. It’s brought to the table to display to the that the place is not what it was, but the range diners, a tantalizing preview of coming attracand quality of eating options in the greater tions, before being whisked back into the open Itaewon area is fast becoming genuinely imkitchen to be carved and served with some pressive – and, to those of us who remember mashed potato and mushrooms. The asking the dive bars and dodgy doorways with a sort price for this dish is KRW43,000, but after tastof wary nostalgia, the change in ing it you’re extremely unlikely the neighborhood is still scarcely to begrudge the outlay; the meat Chef Jun Bum Oh believable. is juicy and tender, the skin salty has experience at and crispy, the portion size (split Since opening in mid-2015, the very highest Appia has been quietly gaining between two people) fairly generlevel, including plaudits for the quality and amous. It’s a minor miracle of a dish. working for the bition of its food, but it remains Apart from the chicken, legendary Thomas there’s a T-bone steak and prime off the radar of many local resiKeller at Bouchon, rib on offer, both of which redents, perhaps because those “in and it shows in the quire pre-ordering, or mains like the know” have been desperate execution of the to keep this hidden gem to themNY strip steak and pork belly dishes on offer selves. So it’s time to let readers for those who’ve arrived more at Appia. of Groove Magazine in on the spontaneously. Prices for the secret; Appia is one of the best beef dishes in particular can restaurants in the city, let alone Itaewon, and rise pretty high by the standards of the disis well worth your time and hard-earned cash. trict, and even the more modest selections Chef Jun Bum Oh has experience at the from the small but well-chosen wine list very highest level, including working for the will take another chunk out of your paylegendary Thomas Keller at Bouchon, and it check. But with pasta dishes hovering shows in the execution of the dishes on ofaround the KRW20,000 mark, there’s fer at Appia. Styling itself as a contemporary no need to break the bank if your wallet American restaurant, Appia’s ever-changing doesn’t stretch that far. menu offers a range of interesting appetizers Sweets are limited to a single desand salads, as well as a number of pasta and sert of the day, which on the occasion meat dishes. that Groove visited was a fabulous apA pickled beet salad (KRW20,000) comes ple cobbler served with a somewhat paired with sweet orange dressing and the bland vanilla ice cream–the only homost gorgeous homemade ricotta cheese, a hum note of the meal. Apart from dish zesty and vibrant enough to have even dinner, Appia also offers a somewhat the most hardened beetroot-sceptic such as Mexican-inspired weekend brunch your correspondent digging in for more. The menu with items like huevos rancrab cake (KRW16,000) is another terrific apcheros and a chicken and bacon
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quesadilla to tempt you through the door. Situated in a quiet side street on the hill overlooking Noksapyeong Station, it’s a very smart-looking restaurant, with ambience and service to match the quality of the food. There’s a small rooftop terrace to enjoy a post-dinner drink and the whole place exudes a discreet charm–a perfect date venue, but also the sort of place you could visit for a casual meal without feeling out of place. Itaewon is lucky to have Appia and it deserves just a little more fame, because it’s a terrific restaurant with very little to fault in either concept or execution. If this is gentrification, long may it continue. ADD Itaewon-ro 143-10, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. tel 02-6497-1100 Food ●●●●● time Open 6pm - 11pm Value ●●●●○ Tuesday - Saturday, and for Ambiance ●●●●● lunch 12-3 on Saturday and Service ●●●●● Sunday. Closed Sunday Overall ●●●●● night and Monday
Summer
Burrito Kimbap
2 chicken breasts 2 chicken bouillon cubes 1/2 tsp ground cumin 1/2 tsp chili powder 1/4 tsp onion powder 1/4 tsp garlic powder 1/4 tsp paprika 1/4 tsp salt 1/8 tsp black pepper
pinch of cayenne 1 red pepper, julienned 1/4 Cup pickled jalapenos 1/2 Cup grated cheddar cheese 1/4 Cup chopped cilantro 4 sheets dried seaweed sheets 3 cups glutinous rice, cooked & cooled
Place chicken breasts & bouillon cubes in a large pot. Fill with water until the chicken is just covered. Bring the water to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cover the pot & poach for 10-14 minutes. Remove chicken from the pot & it using two forks. Combine the cumin, chili, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, salt & pepper together. Toss the chicken with the spices while the chicken is still hot. To assemble the kimbap, lay one piece of the dried seaweed on a long strip of saran wrap or a bamboo mat. Press about 3/4 cup of the rice onto the seaweed covering the entire sheet. Spread about 1/3 cup of the chicken, some of the julienned red pepper, shredded cheese, jalapenos & cilantro in the center of the rice. Using the saran wrap or bamboo mat, begin to lift one side of the seaweed over the ingredients. Tuck it tightly & continue to roll sealing it tightly. Brush sesame oil over the top of the roll then slice into 1/2 inch size pieces..
스테이크
소세지
숯불
햄버거 패티
소스
양념
Take Exit 2 off Itaewon Station 2nd Floor, 737-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
www.highstreet.co.kr
www.groovekorea.com August 2016
Story and photo by by Lauren Mays
recipe of the mont h
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A fresh fusion recipe for summer
Tampa
A little bit of
sandwich Bar
Florida sunshine in sandwich form
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Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)
FOOD & DRINK
Story by Yoo Jin Oh photos by Paola Cox
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pened late last year in the trendy area of Yeonnam-dong, Tampa is a picture-perfect recreation of a beach-side Cuban sandwich bar. Established by two close friends Geun Min Kang and Hyun Min Cho and named for the home of Cuban Sandwich – Tampa stays true to its beachy vibe with its bright-yellow walls and laid back American Jazz. The restaurant also serves both craft and generic US beers (KRW 6,000 to KRW 9,000) as well as a solid Cuba Libre (10.5), making it the perfect place to escape for a relaxed lunch or dinner. The Tampa Cuban Sandwich (KRW 13,000 – Ciabatta, KRW 12,000 - Baguette) gets the balance of the strong flavors of salami, Mojo Pork, Sweet Ham, sharp mustard and Swiss Cheese just right. Hidden inside a deceptively simple sandwich, the Cuban Mojo pork is marinated for 24 hours then slow cooked for 3 hours to tenderness for that incredibly juicy and rich flavor with undertone of citrus and herbs. Tampa offers variety of fries as a side, but instead of the usual potatoes fries, give their home made sweet potatoes fries (KRW 5,000) a try. They are delightfully chewy, crunchy with a slight sweet and even comes with serving of whipped cream. Another spin on the Cuban sandwich is the Miami Cuban Sandwich (KRW 10,000
Ciabatta, KRW 9,000 – Baguette), which has thin slices of pickles instead of the salami adding another layer of tanginess to the sandwich. Tampa offers both baguette and ciabatta option as an alternative to the traditional Cuban bread. The ciabatta is a little dense, and the baguette a little flakey in comparison to Cuban bread but both of them do a good job of delivering that crunchy eggshell bite to the sandwich. After extensive research and trails the pair decided to expand their menu beyond the Cuban sandwich to include a variety of choices including Mac N’ Cheese, Shrimp Po’boy, and Chicken Fillet Sandwiches (KRW 8,500 to KRW 11,700). One of their newest additions is their only dessert deep fried Oreos (KRW 3,500). Fried with layer of pancake batter, the Oreos are soft and chewy and curiously free of grease. One order (5 cookies) is ideal for two people and pairs surprisingly well with a cold glass of beer. One can only imagine how well it might pair with the recently added Banana Bread Beer (KRW 9,000). It is surprising to learn that the owners had never been to Tampa but started the sandwich bar to bring unconventional sandwiches to its
Food ●●●●○ diners. However, their Value ●●●◐○ research and devotion Ambiance ●●●●◐ to to the original flavor Service ●●●●○ recently earned them Overall ●●●●○ high praise at an event they hosted for Florida locals in Seoul. Geun Min and Hyun Min are planning to compete in a Cuban sandwich competition in Tampa Bay next year but until then they’ll continue to bring a little bit of that Cuban flair to Korea. Add 12 Donggyo-ro 28-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul Tel 070 8156 0930 time 12pm – 10pm from Tuesday to Sunday (Reservations only taken on weekdays, not weekends)
Take to the Skies
Low-Cost Carriers Serving Asia and Beyond Story and Photos by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring
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www.groovekorea.com August 2016
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
TRAVEL
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ith the holidays well and truly in full swing, it's time to think about where this vacation can take us. For many, time and financial restrictions mean that a staycation is top of the agenda with Korea's quieter and lesser known gems left to discover. But this doesn't have to be the case. Asia has continued to become a travel mecca with a lot of cheaper, more plentiful options becoming available. Korea itself has embraced the concept of low-cost travel and has over the years established a number of lowcost carriers for our vacation needs. Whether you are looking for a cheaper way to head to Japan or going further afield to Thailand, the region's low-cost airlines have the right fares for everyone. Motto Fly to Busan TEL 1666-3060 Website www.airbusan.com
Based in Busan and an offshoot of parent Asiana Airlines, Air Busan is a great connection to Asia in the south. Formed in 2007, the domestic Seoul to Busan route remains the most popular with flights to nine other countries across the region including Japan, Cambodia, and Guam. The airline also has a “fly and fun” service aimed at frequent travellers with many discounts and offers available with affiliating hotels, tourist attractions, and hotels. Korea Busan/Jeju China Hohhot/Huangshan/Qingdao/Yanji/Zhangjiajie Japan Fukuoka/Osaka/Sapporo/Tokyo Other Hong Kong/Macau/Kaohsiung/Taipei/ Ulaanbaatar/Cebu/Da Nang/Siem Reap/Guam
Motto Fly, Better Fly TEL 1600-6200 Website www.jinair.com
Jin Air has run since 2008 and aims its service at a younger audience. With a set uniform of T-shirt and jeans, this is more of an informal
airline that aims to get you to your destination with ease. With three domestic flights and 27 international destinations under its wings, the airline now even flies to Honolulu. With maintenance and training carried out by national carrier Korean Air, Jin (meaning “truth”) guarantees that you will be in good hands. For longer flights, Jini Play, the airline’s inflight entertainment service, can be accessed through the rental of tablet PCs or from your own WiFi supported electronic device. Korea Busan/Cheongju/Jeju/Yangyang China Shanghai/Taiyuan/Wuxi/Xi’An Japan Fukuoka/Osaka/Okinawa/Sapporo/Tokyo Other Hong Kong/Macau/Taipei/Bangkok/Phuket/ Chiang Mai/Siem Reap/Vientiane/Hanoi/Cebu/ Da Nang/Clark/Kalibo/Kota Kinabalu/Cairns/ Guam/Saipan/Honolulu
Motto Join & Joy TEL 1500-1599 Website www.jejuair.net
Part of the Aekyung group, Jeju Air has been operating since 2005. Completing its first voyage between Seoul and Hiroshima, the airline is perhaps Korea’s largest low-cost carrier with six domestic routes and 23 international destinations. Kota Kinabalu, Sapporo, and Phuket have just been added this year, with some destinations offering two flights per day. The airline offers a frequent flyer program, Join and Joy, with special promotional periods available for members. Get on board and be greeted by the staff donned in Jeju orange. Korea China Japan Other
Busan/Cheongju/Daegu/Jeju Beijing/Jiamusi/Qingdao/Shijiazhuang/Yantai Fukuoka/Nagoya/Osaka/Okinawa/Sapporo/Tokyo Hong Kong/Taipei/Phnom Penh/Bangkok/Phuket/ Cebu/Manila/Da Nang/Hanoi/Saipan/Guam/ Kota Kinabalu
Motto Exciting Flying TEL 1544-0080 Website www.eastarjet.com
Formed in 2007, Eastar is based at Seoul’s smaller Gimpo International airport, serving 14 destinations in eight countries with main routes in Japan and China and recent SouthEast additions Thailand, Cambodia, and Malaysia. Eastar also flies to the smaller ports of Cheongju and Gunsan and continues to grow. Korea China Japan Other
Cheongju/Gunsan/Jeju Jinan/Ningbo/Shanghai/Shenyang Fukuoka/Naha/Osaka/Tokyo Hong Kong/Taipei/Bangkok/Kota Kinabalu/ Siem Reap
Motto Happy T’Way It’s Yours TEL 1688-8686 Website www.twayair.com
Flying since 2010, T’Way operates from its main base of Daegu. Previously known as Handung Airways, T’way now flies to 27 different destinations. The Gimpo to Jeju route continues to be the airline’s most popular, with four domestic routes on offer. Newest routes Sapporo and Saga were added at the end of 2013 and the airline has continued to invest in increasing their fleet for more services planned in the future. Korea Daegu/Jeju/Muan/Gwangju China Guiyang/Jinan/Kunming/Lanzhou/Nanning/ Shijiazhuang/Taiyuan/Xuzhou/Zhangjiajie Japan Fukuoka/Oita/Osaka/Saga/Sapporo/Tokyo Other Macau/Taichung/Taipei/Bangkok/Da Nang/ Ho Chi Minh City/Vientiane/Guam
To book tickets Go online. Most accept Korean credit cards but work mainly when the website is in Korean mode. Most information can be sought in English with special promotions, saver fares, and fully flexible seats available. Contact call centers for bookings in English. Most of the call centers have an English option when connecting or a call-back service to assist you with your booking. All these airlines offer flights from Incheon or Gimpo International Airports – check the specific websites for further information.
Medicinal herbs based regeneration for scalp and hair • Treatment on distance • Safety and organic ingredients
• Free foreign languages assistance • Full range or services for hair
Over 13 years experience of Specialized service provision! Examination program
The most important in the treatment of hair loss is to clarify the causes of hair loss, and then the selection of individual treatment for each patient based on the state of the scalp and hair.
Treatment program
The professionalism and tireless work on the improvement of methods and products for the treatment of alopecia gave many answers to solving hair and scalp problems. Dr. Lee Moon Won provides you only the best achievements of the laboratory experiments to reach safe and long lasting result of the treatment.
Scalp and Hair care treatment program
Professional program for hair and scalp treatment care- deep cleaning and recovery of scalp and hair; release stiffness of neck and shoulders muscles, improves blood circulation, anti-aging and antistress total relaxation.
Hair Lab Hair Beauty and style
Professional hair designer will provide you with any type of professional hair- style service based on your individual hair and scalp condition; tips how to cover hair imperfections and bald areas.
LEE MOON WON Homecare product
High quality natural care for professional and home use, developed by Dr.Lee Moon Won for his patients. Easy in use and suitable for all types of hair and skin. Prevent your hair through everyday care.
Operating hours MON/TUE 10AM-7PM WED/FRI 10AM-9PM SATURDAY 9AM-5:30PM For reservation 02-511-1079 010-4249-3889 Leemoonwon.international@gmail.com
서울시 강남구 청담동 69-5 이유빌딩 3층 3F, Lee&Yu b/d, 69-5 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea
www.eng.leemoonwon.com
TRAVEL Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
www.groovekorea.com August 2016 58
Coastal Sunsets and Sandy Beaches in Taean-gun
Take a trip off the beaten path to Korea’s west coast this summer
Story and Photos by Hallie Bradley
S
ummer vacations and weekends away conjure up for most images of beaches and ocean waves lapping on shores and boats. In Korea, there is no lack of coastline and a weekend away can take one to the mud flats of the west coast, the thousands of islands of the south coast, or the white sand beaches of the east coast. This summer, try the west coast: take a trip to Taean-gun for something a little off the beaten path. Situated just a couple hours southwest of Seoul in Chungcheong-do, this county is known for sunsets and beach fun, and is easy enough to get to. Taean Haean National Park has around thirty beaches to choose from, perfect for the traveler looking for either a quiet respite from the city or a party on the beach. Highlights of the region include but are not at all limited to:
Mongsanpo Beach
Solmoraet-gil
This 3.5-kilometer-long beach lined with pine trees is perfect for the person hoping to camp out and hunt for shellfish and other sea life at low tide. There are also pensions, minbaks, and some nice hotels, too; yet they’re all spaced out comfortably, so the beach isn’t likely to be overrun and busy. The amount of space one can find here is a huge draw. While many popular beaches are swarmed with visitors in the summer, Mongsanpo is a little more low key and perfect for the person looking to get away, to rest and to relax with the beautiful ocean in view.
The “road of pine trees and sand” is a course that was opened up in 2011 and winds 12.7 kilometers from Mongsanpo Beach down to Deureunihang Port passing by Cheongpodae Beach, Baeksajang Beach, Sambong Beach, and Gijipo Beach. There are a few different courses that make up the whole. The one starting at Mongsanpo is an estimated four hours walk south, but if the meander leads to short swims at the beautiful beaches previously mentioned, it could take quite a bit longer and that’s okay. This road is the way to enjoy the scenery, enjoy the landscape, and get in some exercise, too. Stay at Mongsanpo for the night, then walk along Solmoraegil the next day with a few dips in between, while moving further south to the next spot in the beautiful national park.
address Sinjang-gil, Nam-myeon, Taean-gun, Chungcheongnam-do Amenities changing rooms, shower booths, restrooms, water-supply area, campsite and auto-camp site, basketball court, volleyball court, nearby pensions, minbaks, and other places to stay as well as cafes and eateries. Website www.mongsanpo.or.kr (Korean only)
Website english.knps.or.kr/Knp/Taeanhaean
Address Changgi 6-ri, Anmyeon-eup, Taean-gun, Chungcheongnam-do Amenities parking, camping, restrooms, shower rooms
This forest, which should be visited in the morning before the crowds come to eat lunch, is full of 120-year-old pine trees that were once managed by the royal family of the Goryeo Dynasty. The massive trees provide shade to rest under and a cool breeze before you head back to the beach for another dip in the afternoon waves. This park is gorgeous and the towering trees remind us that we are only a small part of this huge, huge world. Address 3195-6, Anmyeon-daero, Anmyeon-eup, Taean-gun, Chungcheongnam-do Amenities convenience store, restrooms, picnic tables/benches, parking Admission Adults: KRW 1,000; Teenagers: KRW 800; Children under 13: KRW 400
Hallie Bradley is a writer, educator, editor and more who has lived in Korea since 2006. Check out her website TheSoulofSeoul.net for more articles on culture, Korean traditions and the life of her growing multicultural family in Korea or follow her on Instagram @thesoulofseoulblog for photos along the way.
Kkotji Beach One of the most popular beaches in the region, Kkotji is said to be one of the best places to view the sunset in Korea. The 3.2-kilometer-long beach gently slopes out into the water like many of the beaches on the west coast and offers a view of two stones jutting up into the sky. This view, with the sun setting between the rocks, is why people flock to the area. The rocks, lovingly named Grandmother Rock and Grandfather Rock, also provide a chance to weave a tale to newcomers of a wife turned to stone while she awaited the return of her husband from war. This beach is for the traveler looking to join the crowds, sit under a rainbow umbrella next to hundreds of other rainbow umbrellas, and eat the good food from the numerous vendors that sit nearby awaiting the arrival of the thousands of tourists. Address Seungeon 4-ri, Anmyeon-eup, Taean-gun, Chungcheongnam-do Amenities parking, shower rooms, restrooms, restaurants, umbrella rental
TRAVEL Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
Anmyeon-do Island Recreational Forest
www.groovekorea.com August 2016
Sambong Beach Sambong Beach, just a bit south of Mongsanpo, offers markedly different views from the gentle slope of the aforementioned beaches. Sambong, just south of a port, has three major rock formations and a pebbly surface to walk on at the northern end. The sand dune nearby is a must see. Camping is also available just behind this beach, which might be best enjoyed by walking along while scooping up clams and other sea life. Walk a bit south, though, and the lighter sand and clear ocean views are sure to make any traveler swoon. This beach also offers ample space to spread out and enjoy the currents.
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This summer take a trip away to Taean-gun and enjoy some of the amazing views within Taean Haean National Park: from beaches to sand dunes, towering pine trees, and rock formations, it’s all stunning.
Edited by Steve Smith (photo@groovekorea.com)
PHO T O S h o p
Groove Korea welcomes PhotoShop. This section brings some of those special shots from our very own GK photographers to give you a snapshot into their world‌
Photographer Kaegan Saenz
PhotoShop-grapher
Photoshop Critique
Photoshop Holidays In Korea
An artist, wanderer and wasted youth of the world, I, Kaegan Saenz, am a 26-year-old capturer, put here to catch what life has put in my way. I believe that art and journalism saves lives by connecting people to different ways of thought and culture. Art and storytelling can lead people in the direction of amazing stories and lessons about today's ever growing world. I wish to share this with anyone and everyone willing to listen and see a story.
Holidays in Korea is part of a larger body of work called All About Me, which focuses on the genre of selfies. Taking away the quick-shot aspect of a selfie and harnessing all of the energy into one meticulous, staged shot. Life is not what it appears anymore as we want everyone to see our definition of perfection and nothing else.
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Website www.wanderingalpaca.com
The finest quality
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ymca 4
The Youn
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Weekdays 12pm-2am / Weekends 12pm-4am |
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5th fl., 84-1 Jongro 2ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul
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ALL local beers 6-8pm
* Happy Hour
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Edited by Steve Smith (photo@groovekorea.com)
PHO T O S h o p
Groove Korea welcomes PhotoShop. This section brings some of those special shots from our very own GK photographers to give you a snapshot into their world‌
Photographer Cristian Bucur
PhotoShop-grapher
Photoshop Critique
Photoshop Prayer in Myeongdong Cathedral
Cristian is a young photographer born by mistake when a friend stepped into one of his portrait shots. He likes most the challenge of portraying and landscapes. Being a relatively young photographer, he photographs everything he sees.
I took this photo in Myeongdong Cathedral, somewhere around noon, on a terribly cold, rainy and windy day. I was just trying to recover warmth after a while spent in Myeongdong to get some street photos when I saw this beautiful moment: a man alone with his God in prayer.
Website www.facebook.com/cristiancbucur
LISTIN G S Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)
HOTELS & RESORTS
EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS
FAMILY & KIDS
American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul
Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul
Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul
Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu
EMBASSIES
British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul
HOTELS & RESORTS
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Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul
Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea
Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000 Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180 Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr
EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500 Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul
T’way Air 1688-8686
Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul
British Airways (02) 774-5511
Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921
Jin Air 1600-6200
Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu
Dulwich College Seoul Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries. 6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500
Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700
Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400
D ETUR
PO NS MU
NDO
HEALTH
Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book? (02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books. Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul
HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products. Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com
Hair & Joy
Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul
Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”
MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean. National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture. Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do
Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243
Seven Uniqlo Springs
HonhIk Univ. Stn. Line2 Exit8
www.hairandjoy.com Gangnam groove ads.pdf Apgujeong Branch
Qunohair
1 19/01/2016 17:14:37 Phone 02.549.0335
Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.
www.qunohair.com
10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
DRAMA
ART MUSIC
Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays. Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, NewC Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. M Y Plateau (02) 1577-7595 CM • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays. MY
National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Hair&Joy
Mapo-gu Dong gyo-dong 168-3_ 3F
CY
SERVICE SPORT
COMMUNITY
ACADEMIC
CMY
K
FRIENDSHIP www.groovekorea.com August 2016
AMUSEMENT PARKS
Animal hospitals
Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.
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Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age. A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com
DETU
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PO NS M U
N DO
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