Groove Korea 2016 July by GROOVEKOREA

issue 117

July 2016

The great summer

STAYC AT ION

target practice :

Archery bringing the arrows outdoors

summer's big two jisan & pentaport are back

The beach

beach time on the peninsula

sweet life sweet oak

the smell of sweet oak down in wonju

Editorial Vol. 117 July 2016

Editorial July 2016

Summer is well and truly hotting up and that can only mean one thing: Vacation time is here. And, undoubtedly, the summer season is always one of Korea’s best with plenty on offer. That’s why we’ve put together a special stay-cation issue to help highlight the plentiful options available across the peninsula. Whether you are looking for outdoor activities, a luxurious break or simply some time to hang in the park, we’ve got it covered. In our Stay-cation special, Naomi Blenkinsop suggests some outdoor adventure with all sorts of parks. Outdoor, adventure, water… there’s something for everyone. Naheen Madarbakus-Ring visits The Ritz-Carton, Seoul to check out their Lazy

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

O n

cover t h e July 2016

Enjoying the Stay-cation issue with a weekend break on the East Coast. Jeongdongjin is a delightful spot with a tranquil beach that makes it difficult to believe that this is still in Korea. Cover Photo by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring

Summer package and also takes a look at some of the country’s finest beach choices. Matt Flemming heads to Wonju for a Sweet Oak experience while Dianne Pineda shares her adventures from Buan County. In community, Andy Hume discovers how the kids are getting together for some debating fun in this season’s exciting competition. Celeste Maturen finds out more about the global Impact Lab while Liam Ring discovers what the Archery is all about around town. In food and drink, Jordan Redmond visits L’empriente while Lauren Stover-Mays discovers the delights of burrito kimbap. Rob Shelley is drinking K-Weisse this month while Andy Hume samples some of the

dishes at Pho Chi Minh. It’s also the height of the summer music festivals this month with Emma Kalka previewing the upcoming Jisan and Pentaport delights while Simon McEnteggart shares the big screen’s Three by… Intensity. Hallie Bradley shares the secrets behind the success of Every Single Day while Seolhui Lee gets up close and personal with Korean artist Minouk Lim. And that’s our lot. So however long the vacation for you, choose Korea to sample some of the pure Summer delights the country has to offer. Whether staying in Seoul or heading south to the coast or beyond, we wish you all a wonderful summer vacation.

What's in this issue Vol. 117 July 2016

The summer of music finally arrives with Korea's big two

EDITORIAL

Key People Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

What's on Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

20-23

National News national news with Korea JoongAng Daily

sponsors

Entertainment

Moon Won Clinic Ready for the summer vacation? make sure that your hair and scalp are in perfect condition too

Korea’s Hidden Coastal Secrets Heading to the Korean Coast

Community

The Great Debaters The arguments which hope to have a winning streak

ave an international impact The Community Impact Lab: Giving back education and a whole lot more

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Music in the mountains & fun in the sun The summer of music finally arrives with Korea's big two

Smile Makeover Removing the language barrier of pain

Staycation

Thou Shalt Not Forget ... Celebrating the end of the Korean War and 60 years of marriage

Target Practice Taking aim with a Korean tradition

Life on ESD Following their dreams, Every Single Day Three By… It's getting rather intense on the big K-film screen this month

Liquid Gold Getting up close and personal with Minouk Lim

summer park life Get outdoors and enjoy the rays this summer

sweet life, sweet oak The sweet smells of Wonju's popular smokehouse eatery

the cutting edge of tradition Head to Daejeon for a breathtaking statuary experience

the sun is calling Buan County's magical retreat away from the city

lazy summer vacation The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul serves up a five-star staycation

What's in this issue Vol. 117 July 2016

Kimchi beer? Yes, but not what you think...

Food & Drink 52

L'empreinte Looks to Leave an Impression Affordable French bistro fare and decadent desserts

Paradise City Better than G'n'R and much more reliable.

Shortening Your Wait for American Chinese Food The American-style Chinese food your life has been missing.

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

it's a cold, cold naengmyeon world that we're living in Three cold noodle havens for this hot, hot summer

do you know franktown? Younger Koreans take up the traditional cooking task

Persimmon& Red Bean Dessert A destination dessert in Seochon

Pho Chi Minh, seoul's newest pho destination Get your pho fix near Gwanghwamun

Okra Kimchi A fresh fusion recipe

Kimchi Beer Kimchi beer? Yes, but not what you think...

American-Style Sushi Rolls Substantial sushi rolls in Incheon's Songdo

13 and 1/2 Hours at Seoul Pub Glimpsing Itaewon's past and future at this stalwort watering hole.

Travel 68

Mongolia Land of Blue Skies Living like the locals, whatever time of year

photoshop Blair Kitchener and Hannah Green head up PhotoShop this month

p52

Affordable French bistro fare and decadent desserts

Key people Vol. 117 July 2016

Dianne Pineda

Jason Newland Jason Newland moved to Korea in 2012 to investigate food so spicy American veterans spontaneously combusted while eating it in the 1950s. So far, he has not found this food. He haphazardly studied English and Philosophy at East Tennessee State University and spends his mornings and afternoons on hours long bicycle rides along the Han River to justify the copious calories he consumes. To afford his eats, he coaches elementary school students on the finer points of "How are you?"

Dianne is an online editor, writer, and fashion stylist from Manila who often jets into Korea. If you see a petite girl with a bunch of shopping bags (oftentimes heavier than she is) and rushing to photo shoots in heels - that would probably be her. She's a certified Korean TV show, drama, pop culture, K-fashion and beauty enthusiast that most of her writings are about it (and sometimes it's all she talks about). Follow her travels, fashion and random inspos at @dianne_panda!

Stephen K. Hirst Stephen K. Hirst is an English Professor working and living in Daejeon. He likes basketball, and comics, but also dead Russian authors and highbrow shit, too. A native of Florida's Gulf Coast, he shall one day return to judge the living and the dead.

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Matt Flemming Matt Flemming is a Canadian freelance writer who recently made the move back to Canada after six soju- and samgyeopsal-fueled years in Seoul. Matt writes about travel, culture and sports for a variety of newspapers, magazines and blogs. In his spare time, he pines for the cheap taxis, convenience culture and the food (oh God, the food) of his former home. Check out his website at www. mflemming.com.

Hal Swindall A California native, Hal Swindall earned his PhD in comparative literature in 1994 and has wandered East Asia as a vagabond English prof ever since. During this time, he has picked up orientalist interests, particularly Buddhist art. Hal's other interests include languages, French food and classical music. He will teach in China starting in August.

KOREA 5th floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea.

Nonhyun serviced apartment

home away HOME

We make sure you are home at the end of your day

Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL DireCtor

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com ASSISTANT EDITOR

liam RING liam@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL

Community FOOD & DRINK ENTERTAINMENT TRAVEL PHOTO

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com charlotte Hammond food@groovekorea.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com steve smith photo@groovekorea.com Co py Editors

Gil Coombe, Tom Godfrey W RITERS & CONTRIBUTORS

Lee Moon Won Clinic, Dianne Pineda, Naomi Blenkinsop, Andy Hume, Matt Flemming, Celeste Maturen, Sean Choi, Anita McKay, Emma Kalka, Hallie Bradley,Simon McEnteggart, Hal Swindall, Seolhui Lee, Barbara Bierbrauer, Naheen MadarbakusRing, Jordan Redmond, Jason Newland, Mike Hanrahan, Stephen Hirst, Charlotte Hammond, Rob Shelley, Seongjin Kim, Worldwide Dreambuilders Korea, Mark Prusiecki, Liam Ring, Boryeong Mud Festival and UPENN Dental Clinic, The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul, HanCinema, AC Parsons, Cristian Bucur, Yeojin Buddhist Art Museum, Augustin Flores, The Community Impact LAB, Erika Hughes, Dong Hyuk Gwak, Sangnok Resort, Taejongdae Resort Park, Busan Infrastructure Corporation, Marine Park, Bucheon, Mureungdowon Arboretum, Valley Rock Music & Arts Festival, Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival, Minouk Lim, Steve Smith, Robert Evans, Peter Cucetti, Hannah Green, Blair Kitchener, Lauren Stover-Mays, Bobby Kim, Peter Kim ART & DESIGN

T +82 2 3446 2727 F +82 2 3447 2727 nh@innthecity.co.kr www.innthecity.co.kr

Hakdong-ro 4 gil 15 Gangnam-gu, Seoul Nonhyun subway station (Line no. 7) Exit #2 (150m)

ART DIRECTOR seokyoung Jang design@a-grid.net MARKETIN G & ADMINISTRATION

CFO steve seung-jin lee MARKETING DIRECTOR peter chong ACCOUNTING yi-seul oh W EB & MOBILE

himes design www.himesdesign.com finch professtional services www.finchproservices.com PUBLISHER

sean choi sean@groovekorea.com

To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com. To contribute to groovekorea, promote an event or share your opinions, please email naheen@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

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What's on MON

WED

TUE

REUTERS ‘Our World Now’ photo exhibition Seoul Arts Center | until Sept 25

Joan Miro in Mallorca ‘A Wild Spirit’ Sejong Center | until Sept 24

Anthony Browne exhibition ‘Happy Museum’ Seoul Arts Center | until Sept 25

Musical ‘Broadway 42nd Street’ Seoul Arts Center | until Aug 28

The Nice

Musical ‘WICKED’ Seoul Arts Center | July 10-Aug 28

Demolition

Opera Matinee L’Elisir d’Amore Sejong Center | July 19

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Seoul Fringe Festival Mapo-gu, Seoul | July 22-30

BECK Olympic Park

JASON BOURNE

Daeju ChiMac Festival Duryu Park | July 27-31

Yeongwol Dong River Festival Yeongwol, Gangwon province | July 27-31

CALENDAR July 2016 FRI

THU

SUN

SAT

Artistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Documents : Art, Typography & Collaboration MMCA Seoul | until Aug 20

Public to Private: Photography in Korean Art since 1989 MMCA Seoul | until July 24

Buyeo Seodong Lotus Festival Buyeo Seodong Park | July 8-17

Guys

Sinchon Water Gun Festa Sinchon Yeonsei-ro | July 9-10

Boryeong Mud Festival July 15-24

Now You See Me 2

concert July 21. 8pm

Jisan Valley Rock Music & Arts Festival Jisan Resort | July 22-24

Pohang International Fire & Light Festival July 28-31

Mokpo Port Festival July 29 - Aug 2

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Is Your Hair Ready For Summer Vacation? No Regrets, Every Single Day

Story and Photos by Lee Moon Won Clinic

J T

here are different types of UV rays: UV-B (280-315 nm) and UV-A (315-400nm). UV-B rays can destroy the protein which maintains the hair shaft. UV-A can get deep inside the scalp and weaken the hair follicles. Having the head uncovered for 3 hours can have a very negative effect due to UV rays and decrease the moisture, strength and overall volume of hair growth. Excessive sun can also cause age spots, a damaged scalp. and hair loss.

uly is renowned as the hot season when everyone heads away for their summer vacation. Whether one is busy making flight reservations, booking hotels or planning itineraries, shopping for summer clothes and the essentials of sun-block, cosmetics and skin protection is needed. However, have you ever thought about hair and scalp protection? During the summer, external sources, such as fine dust, sunburn, cool wind and the excess of sweat and humidity are all potential irritants for the hair and scalp. Dr. Lee Moon Won has identified two main reasons for the increasing number of patients who suffer from scalp or hair problems during the summer.

Water Effects Based on Dr. Lee’s experience, he strongly recommends showering after swimming in either the sea or a pool, as the most commonly occurring cases of scalp and hair problems are caused by salt and heavy metals in the water which irritate the scalp and hair surface if they remain there for too long.

Overheating While outside, don’t forget to cover your hair (and head) to avoid getting strong sun on the scalp. Especially for people suffering from hair loss, the rays of the sun can easily irritate and cause inflammation of the scalp, which can be easily prevented by covering the hair.

Daily tips for hair care during the summer season 1 Avoid a wet scalp - always blow-dry after washing your hair. 2 Don’t use an excess amount of shampoo on the scalp – put a small amount in your hands first and then on the hair. 3 Massage your scalp for better blood circulation 4 Avoid scratching the scalp with your fingertips and do not leave hair accessories in too long.

Lmw best Summer head spa care choice Dr. Lee provides treatment for his patients in the clinic and has developed a full range of the services and products for the safe and effective care of the scalp and hair. So while preparing for your vacation, do not forget about your hair. Everyday care can create a better treatment for your hair!

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

UV-B (280-315 nm) Destroys the protein which maintains the hair shaft

1 UV-A (315-400 nm) Over time, this UV ray can get deep inside the scalp and weaken the hair follicles

SCALING PROCEDURE The Lee Moon Won Clinic scaling procedure helps get rid of all the impurities on the scalp surface by reducing the blockage of follicles, reducing dandruff and sebum, and bringing an overall freshness to the scalp. Professional therapists clean every centimeter of the scalp surface, which is hard to accomplish at home.

CRYO PROCEDURE The Lee Moon Won Clinic cryo procedure delivers a deep dermis treatment consisting of 90% herbs which provides a calming effect on the skin while reducing redness, heat inflammation, and improving the conditions deep inside the scalp. This cool procedure helps to slow down the process of aging while oxidizing the scalp surface.

Lmw Must have product for the Summer season

Scalp & Hair Medical Care program Scalp & hair Examination Program

LMW Parasol Mist (sun care)

Computer examination and diagnosis Check condition and get consultation from specialist, treatment program matching, medicine prescription.

Hair nutrition and cover during the hot summer days. Natural oils and compounds like sunflower seed oil, olive oil, Camellia oil, Argania spinosa, and kernel oil provides softness and a healthy gloss for the hair.

Time 2 hours / Price 170,000 KRW

BEAUTY HAIR OR SCALP CARE

Volume 100 ml Price KRW 29,000 How to use Spray the hair mist on hair ends at a distance of 10-15 cm.

All hair types to optimize scalp conditions for healthy, manageable hair, more radiance, vitality and suppleness. Time 2 hours / Price 170,000 KRW

Luxurious head spa and K-beauty program Advanced recovery treatment for scalp and hair including hair styling to add shine, volume and texture. Time 3 hours / Price 295,000 KRW LMW 4oС COOLING GEL.

*Every program includes relaxation massage and blow-drying with style.

Cooling to 4oC with a one-hour effect! Immediately decreases scalp temperature to 4oC immediately after absorption. Medicinal herbs strengthen the scalp and hair!

FREE GIFT COUPON LMW SHAMPOO - 59,000KRW Applicable for Scalp & Hair Medical Care program • Reservation only • Valid untill Dec 31, 2016

FOR EASIER & BETTER HAIR CARE!

Please present it to the reception desk when you visit our clinic at first place.

3F, Lee&Yu b/d, 69-5 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea 02-511-1079 010-4249-3889 Leemoonwon.international@gmail.com

www.eng.leemoonwon.com

Nati onal Ne ws

In association with July 2016 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

Syrians

at airport win a victory

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

group of Syrians marooned at the Incheon International Airport for months has won a lawsuit against the Korean government over the rejections of their refugee applications. Incheon District Court said June 20 that 19 Syrian nationals recently won lawsuits against the Immigration Office of Incheon International Airport, which is controlled by the Ministry of Justice, over their denied opportunities to file refugee applications. June 20 was World Refugee Day. Including the 19, some 28 Syrians arrived at Incheon International Airport from last November through January from their home country via various transit destinations including Turkey and China. Although they sought refugee status in Korea, the Immigration Office rejected their requests, suspecting that they wanted to enter Korea to find jobs.

Stuck in the deportation room of the airport for months, they filed lawsuits demanding that their applications be accepted and processed. The Immigration Office argued that the recent terrorist attacks in Paris were committed by refugees and their entries should be blocked to prevent a security risk to the country. The court rejected the government’s argument. “Those whose opportunities for refugee applications were denied will also be deprived of their opportunities to be assisted by lawyers,” the court said. “They, therefore, at least must be given an opportunity to file their applications.” The court said the law clearly states certain grounds for rejections of applications, such as passport forgery. “In order to meet Korea’s international status as a country protecting human rights, a law to protect refugees was established. Based on the intentions of the law, the government should do its best not to deprive

opportunities to file refugee applications.” If the government does not appeal, the Syrians will be able to leave the deportation room and start their application process. The court will also rule soon on petitions filed by nine other Syrians. The ruling shows a gap in attitude between the judiciary and the administration on the refugee issue. The number of refugee applicants in Korea has grown from 1,143 in 2012 to 2,896 in 2014 and 5,700 last year. The government, however, accepted only 592 applications from people seeking refugee status. Meanwhile, Chairman Lee Sung-ho of the National Human Rights Commission issued a statement to mark World Refugee Day and said the commission is looking into the bad conditions the asylum-seekers are enduring at the airport. “Our society’s understanding and maturity is needed by the refugees who were forced to leave their homelands,” he said.

Wife forgives student whose suicide took her husband’s life

Yeoksam business hotel

reasonable stay

at the perfect location

he cremation ceremony of the civil servant from Gokseong County, South Jeolla, who died after a college student who had failed his civil service exam leaped from an apartment building and landed on him, was held in Buk District, Gwangju. The grade seven civil servant, Yang Dae-jin, 39, was walking home from a bus stop with wife, who is eight months pregnant, and his 6-year-old son when the depressed student fell on him. The student died immediately from a fractured skull and the victim was sent to a nearby hospital but died a few hours later. “The college student who committed suicide is another victim of our mercilessly competitive society,” said the 53-year-old uncle of the widowed wife, surnamed Seo. “So we have decided to forgive him.” According to the uncle, the family of the student attended the funeral. “The father and the older brother of the student expressed grief and apologized,” said the uncle. “But because both families were shocked at the sudden death of their family members, we didn’t get a chance to talk more.” When asked more about the student, Seo added, “I heard he was preparing for the civil servant examination … The family must be also going through a hard time from the loss of their beloved one. I can’t imagine how it would feel like to lose my son so suddenly. Yang’s wife went through a lot, but she finally decided to forgive the student.” Seo said that the family read from the news that the student’s family was suffering financially and so she decided not to seek compensation from them. “The student’s family has also been victimized since they lost their son,” continued Seo. “We won’t ask for compensation.” Yang was working at the public relations department of Gokseong County Office and he was on the forefront of publicizing Gokseong. He devised various ideas to promote the county after the release of a Korean thriller, “Wailing” (2016), which was titled Gokseong in Korean. The film was shot at locations in the county and has been seen by over 5 million people. Yang received an award for his efforts in promoting the film on behalf of Gokseong, his wife’s home county.

FREE Wi-Fi | FREE parking 8 mins from COEX 5 mins from Gangnam subway station T +82 2 554 8342 F +82 2 557 6190 nh@innthecity.co.kr www.innthecity.co.kr

Teheranro 37-gil 13-8 Gangnam-gu, Seoul Yeoksam subway station (Line no. 2) Exit #8 (150m) Gangnam stn

Yeoksam stn

Sunryeung stn

Samsung stn (COEX)

Nati onal Ne ws

Curfew by

TOEIC score

mposing curfew on students who receive low scores on their English proficiency test is an infringement upon human rights, said the National Human Rights Commission of Korea (NHRC) in a written statement released June 21. The decision came after undergraduate students submitted petitions last October and again last March to protest a university’s dormitory rule that states, “Those who fail to receive a TOEIC score higher than 550 within two months are forbidden from leaving or staying out of the dormitory.” The controversial rule immediately incited protests when it was created last September by a public university specializing in maritime studies. The NHRC released their

statement to the press on the condition that the university remains anonymous. “So English is now the new ticket home?” said one student. Another said, “The University is using education to justify its violation of human rights.” The Test of English for International Communication, more commonly known by its abbreviation, TOEIC, is an English test provided by the U.S.-based Educational Testing Service for those who do not speak English as a first language. Although in some English-speaking countries the test is not as widely used as the Test of English as a Foreign Language, or TOEFL, it has become the standardized English test in Korea, where it is used by major corporations and universi-

Police identify founders of

Soranet

porn site

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

he founders of Korea’s largest pornographic site, Sora.net, have been identified, police announced June 13. Two of the four founders have been identified as a Seoul National University graduate and his wife, although police suspect there are three more administrators. Soranet was established in 1999 and, while banned in Korea, it has since led to petition campaigns calling for the site’s removal. In addition to conventional pornography, some of the materials posted on the site include secretly filmed videos of women’s shower rooms

and revenge porn (sex tapes released to damage the reputation of ex-lovers). The site exceeded 1 million registered members in 2010 and made over 10 billion won ($8.5 million) in total profit. According to Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency’s cybercrime investigation unit, the identities of the site’s administrators were unknown. Administrators used false names like Terry Park and Kay Song and servers were located in the United States and Europe, where pornographic sites are not illegal. Soranet’s founders used advertising revenue earned by the website in order to elude

ties in their employment and admission processes. The receipt of a 990-point full mark is considered by many in the country a remarkable feat. The university said that the rule is aimed to motivate students and increase the English fluency of Korea’s future maritime experts, something that will be needed given the increasing number of international sailors. But even before the dorm rule was instated, the university had been using TOEIC scores as a requirement for graduation; students who scored less than 650 had their graduation postponed until they managed to do so. The university claims the dorm rule had “considerable educational effect,” reducing the number of students who score less than 550 from 52 to 27. Between the university’s right to determine its own education policies and students’ basic human rights, which are both guaranteed by the Constitution, the NHRC decided to side with the students and advised that the regulation be amended..

police by constantly moving from country to country, even going so far as to purchase permanent residency in the countries to which they moved. Their elusiveness earned the site the nickname “Impregnable Fortress.” Then in April police sighted the founders in an airport in Southeastern Asia, but the agents could not take them into custody because they cannot arrest the permanent residents of another nation with a warrant issued in Korea. “Now that we know where they are,” a police official explained, “we have narrowed down the scope of our search.” The officer added, “They had permanent residency status in Australia and a few Southeast Asian countries and they tried but failed to get permanent residency in the United States and the Netherlands, where we conducted cooperative investigations with local police.” Police finally shut Soranet down in April and the founders officially announced the closing of their site through their Twitter account on June 6. Police officials, while stressing the importance of fluid cooperation with foreign investigators, are working on the extradition process. “Given their past,” said one officer, “they may try to move to another country again so we’re putting them under close watch.”

CSponso OMMUNITY rs Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Smile Makeover

They say that the smile is an individualâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best asset, and this dental clinic in Hongdae will give you more reasons to gleam your pearly whites Story by Dianne Pineda Photos by UPENN Dental clinic

Seoul UPenn Dental Clinic

서울 유펜 치과

Creating Beautiful Smiles Providing Gentle Dental Care Do-shik Kim D.M.D. University of Pennsylvania School of Dental Medicine Periodontics(Gum disease) American Academy of Periodontics Periodontal Prosthesis American Academy of Osseointegration Dental Implant American Dental Association

Dental Implant Crowns (caps) & Fixed Bridges Teeth Whitening Esthetic dentistry (Veneers & Bonding) Periodontal Scaling & Surgery

Hapjung Station Subway Line 2&6

Add Seoul, Mapogu Yanghwa-ro 116 Number 02-324-2525 time Weekdays, 10am-6pm, Saturday 10am-1pm, Evening hours available by appointment

Seoul Upenn Dental Clinic

Hongik Univ.

Hongdae Station Subway Line 2

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

116 Yanghwa-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul 02-324-2525 seoulpenn5901@gmail.com Weekdays 10am-6pm / Sat 10am-1pm Evening hours available by appointment

or many people, going to the dentist can be such a pain (no pun intended). If kids and adults alike have this proverbial fear, how much worse is it for a foreigner who doesn’t understand a word that’s being said while his or her mouth is wide open? While dental care in Korea is generally of a high standard, not a lot clinics offer services in English, which is where Seoul UPenn Dental Clinic comes to the rescue. Dr Do-Shik Kim, DMD, the resident dentist in the clinic, has been practicing dentistry for years, as inspired by his father, who has been running his own clinic in the building for over 30 years. This father-and-son team is already well-known in the community, as well as their skilled staff who are all ready to answer your dental concerns. Able to assist with any query ranging from a simple toothache to the most complex cases, UPenn are here to help. A graduate of the University of Pennsylvania, Dr. Kim completed a dual specialty graduate training program called Periodontal Prosthesis. The course qualified the dentist as a specialist in Periodontics (gum disease), Implants, and Prosthodontics (crown and bridges). He explains, “My philosophy is to treat patients so that they can have a healthy mouth for a long time. At the time of treatment, it may feel like it takes a little bit longer or be more expensive, but with the right treatment it will last longer. I try to treat my patients the same way I want to be treated at any doctor's office.” Speaking of the doctor’s office, you’ll feel right at home at Seoul UPenn as they have recently just renovated their clinic. So whether you’re young or old, remember that oral health is important – and so is the feeling of being comfortable and at home in the clinic. At UPenn, you don’t need to work up the courage to go there, as the friendly doctor and staff will assure you that you’re in good hands.

C OMMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com July 2016 24

The Great Debaters Preparing for the World Championships with Korea’s National Debate Team Story and photos by Andy Hume

n a classroom deep in the heart of Gangnam, Hyewon Rho is telling her students, with a resigned sigh, to start over. They have filled a whiteboard with a chaotic flurry of words, arrows and question marks, but she is worried that their case makes no more sense today than it did the day before, or the day before that. There are only days left before these high school debaters will get on a plane to Germany to represent Korea at the World Schools Debating Championships, and as their coach has been warning them all year, opponents such as Australia, Canada and the world champions Singapore will be unforgiving of the slightest weakness in their arguments. National team captain Ji Yoon Park, a senior at Hankuk Academy of Foreign Studies in Yongin, has been debating since she was twelve. “I actually got more nervous making thirty second speeches in front of my elementary class”, she says. “Making an eight minute speech in English seems like second nature now, even when my notes don’t make any sense. And they usually don’t.” From elementary school to university level, Parliamentary Debate tournaments see students assessed on their persuasiveness and logic through multiple rounds of debate, on topics from minority rights to globalization, with as little as fifteen minutes preparation time. And, of course, everything is done in English. Although students from around the world have been competing in speech and debate tournaments for well over three decades, Korea is still a relative newcomer to the international scene. Debate was first introduced by foreign teachers at the nation’s top schools and universities before gradually catching on

around the country, and is now a fixture on many curriculums. “From the very start, our main concern was to build a community”, says Professor Brendan Howe, Associate Dean Debate was first at the Graduate School introduced by of International Studforeign teachers ies at Ewha University, at the nation’s who helped found the top schools and first college debate souniversities before ciety there in 2004 and gradually catching who was instrumental in on around the setting up what is now a country, and is now vibrant intervarsity cira fixture on many cuit. “It was incredibly curriculums. important to us that debating in Korea should become a self-sustaining, student-run activity”. Twelve years on, the recent Korean National Championships (KNC) in May saw fifty-six teams from thirteen universities compete over three days for the overall prize. In the final, a team from Chung-Ang University defeated their opponents from Seoul National University in a closely-fought debate about the merits of consumer boycotts. In common with most university tournaments, the KNC was planned and run entirely by students, with minimal input from professors or university staff. At the school level, too, the growth of debate has been remarkable. There are debate clubs and programs in schools all over the country, private academies that specialise in debate, and tournaments for students from elementary age up, the largest of which attract over 200 teams every year. Like his national

Debate in the classroom

Rebuttal game Sit students in two rows opposite each other. Hand out pieces of paper with simple debate topics written on them – We should abolish homework, Facebook does more harm than good, Ban the keeping of pets. Students have to make a one-minute speech in favor of the topic, and then the person opposite makes a one minute rebuttal of their main points. After each pair of speeches, take a vote to see which speech was more persuasive. Case building Students are split into two groups and given a topic. One group works on arguments in favor of the resolution, the other on points against. After ten minutes or so, students present their arguments orally, alternating between the two sides, while the teacher facilitates discussion about the topic or asks opponents what their reaction is to each argument. Extend the exercise by setting students homework to write essays or prepare short speeches based on the ideas discussed.

Although the spread of debate in Korea has been rapid, it’s fair to say that at the most competitive level the activity remains the preserve of a few elite schools and boutique hagwons.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Balloon debate In this fun game, students take on the roles of celebrities on a hot air balloon that’s rapidly falling; bodies need to be thrown over the side to stay in the air. Each kid makes a 60-second speech as their celebrity, pleading for their life, before a vote is taken on who to eject. The game continues until one celeb is left alive. More times than you’d expect, it ends up being Kim Jong-Eun.

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Here are three easy ways to incorporate debate skills into the classroom.

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

(see sidebar). The confidence that comes with learning to speak in public is also vital, and often helps to bring shyer teens out of their shell. Perhaps most crucially, debate teaches critical thinking skills in an educational culture that does not always encourage students to see both sides of an issue, let alone question what they are being taught. Jihoon Kim is a former member of the national team now studying at Oxford University in the UK, and he is in no doubt about the boost that learning debate gave him. “It’s a million miles away from the traditional Korean classroom, where the teacher says something and you write it down. Everything has to be justified. Everything’s open to question. It’s just a completely different mindset.” The members of this year’s Team Korea are hoping to join their seniors at Oxford, Yale, SNU and Yonsei, but for the moment they have more pressing concerns. Their coach has listened to their speeches, and is far from happy with what she has heard. “Seriously, guys, it’s still a mess”, complains Rho. “This time in two weeks we’ll be starting our first round, and we are not ready. Not even close. Let’s start again.” The students groan, but they know better than to try to change her mind. There are some arguments that even these debaters cannot win. The World Schools Debating Championships take place in Stuttgart, Germany from July 19-29 this year. You can follow the progress of the Korean national team on Facebook at www.facebook.com/wsdcteamkorea

team captain, Seoul International School sophomore Nicholas Kim is a former winner of Korea’s biggest debating tournament, the YTN-HUFS Youth English Debating Championship, which has been held annually since 2009. “I remember wondering why there were cameras and technicians everywhere”, he admits. “No-one told us the final was going to be broadcast on live TV!” Although the spread of debate in Korea has been rapid, it’s fair to say that at the most competitive level the activity remains the preserve of a few elite schools and boutique hagwons. “It’s perceived as a résumé-builder for students who are hoping to go to university abroad”, notes Hyewon Rho who, as well as being co-coach of Korea’s national team, also runs Debate For All, an organization which seeks to spread the benefits of debating beyond its relatively privileged heartland. “What we want to show parents and students alike is that debate is something that anyone can do, and it doesn’t need to cost a cent.” “Bringing debate to the 99%”, as Rho’s organisation aspires to do, is an important goal; the benefits to students are too varied to be restricted to a select few. Many Korean parents are sold on debate as a vehicle for English learning, and there’s no doubt that the experience of writing and delivering their own speech is more engaging and immediate for children than any number of sterile textbook exercises, which is why many English teachers find debate a useful classroom tool

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have an international impact The Community Impact LAB bringing the world together Story by Celeste Maturen Photos by The Community Impact LAB

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ost expats don’t plan on putting down roots and growing old on the peninsula, but many will extend their initial contracts to spend a few more years exploring Korean culture and the countries within its reach. For many young expat ESL instructors, a teaching career is a temporary stint to facilitate travel or test out the field—not necessarily a career they plan to continue at home. That’s why embracing their own interests while teaching is so important, for their happiness and their resume. During her eight years working in Seoul, expat Xouhoa Bowen was always looking for ways to help others. She moved to Korea in late 2007 to fill a one-year commitment teaching English at a hagwon, after which she planned to pursue a position more closely related to her studies in international development. Time flew by and Bowen found herself at home in Seoul, but a lack of Korean language skills confined her to the expat bubble. To expand her community and learn more about her new home, Bowen sought out volunteering opportunities, which led her to push for the creation

cus her efforts on motivating and empowerof volunteer programs in her workplace. She ing families in her community to engage and coordinated service projects that led to many give back in the ways that they could. “You can Saturdays at orphanages and centers for the make an impact and solve big challenges if you underprivileged. find creative ways to do it” says Bowen. “I knew In 2015, Bowen moved her family back to there were needs, and people with the will and the US, which was exciting and at the same resources to tackle them, so the time nerve-wrecking. She wasn’t key was finding a way to marry keen on jumping back into the Many new moms the two.” education field and while she care for their In December 2015, Bowen behad ideas for starting a nonprofchildren at home, gan the Community Impact LAB it of her own, self doubt crept in. leaving behind to empower women, engage famSo she started small, looking for a workplace ilies, and support underserved ways to help out in her new home where they were populations. The acronym in its in San Francisco’s East Bay. recognized for name is derived from the latter Bowen saw needs in two their knowledge half of the aphorism “a rising tide communities that she felt drawn and skills. lifts all boats”, which succinctly to fill: support for local famidescribes the nonprofit’s goal -lies and assistance for women to engage families in innovative and impactful and children. But giving back proved difficult. ways in order to help all families thrive. Whether it was not being able to bring her The nonprofit has three programs; the Sochildren along, running into organizational cial Good LAB, Learning LAB, and Family red tape, or limited ways to contribute, Bowen Support LAB, each with its own focus and area found it hard to make the impact she had enof impact. The Learning LAB aims to empowvisioned. er women. Like most mothers in Korea, many Rather than giving up, she decided to fo-

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Bowen began the Community Impact LAB to empower women, engage families, and support underserved populations. Although Bowen is no longer in the education industry, she often finds herself using the skills she honed as a teacher and manager in her role as president of the Community Impact LAB and credits her time in Korea for helping her discover the gumption to start a non-profit of her own. It’s growing quickly for a reason. Members like Lindsay Bowling joined the organization because its ideals aligned with her own, and its mission reminded her of her own childhood. “Some of my earliest memories are of my mother helping others and finding ways to involve me. When I became a parent, I knew I wanted my children to be raised the same way.” In short, members of the Community Impact LAB are helping others while building a community for their children where volunteerism is an everyday part of life. More info The Community Impact LAB is always grateful for donations which aid projects in the Social Good LAB. If you’re interested in helping the Community Impact LAB make a difference, please spread the word and consider making a donation. Website www.communityimpactLAB.org Paypal info@communityimpactAB.org

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

an fathers spend an average of just 6 minutes a day with their children, while American fathers don’t spend much more than half an hour, according to recently published research. The Family Support LAB’s events are meant to encourage fathers to engage on a more regular basis. Finally, the Social Good LAB focuses on charitable projects helping families in need. Each project enables parents and kids to participate and directly meets a need; the group has prepared meals for homeless women and kids, delivered flowers to elderly residents, and collected new and used items to help vulnerable individuals. Bowen just completed the “39 Moms in 39 Days” campaign, a drive to collect and deliver car seats and baby essentials for newly resettled refugee families, most of whom have had to flee Afghanistan because of their work as interpreters. “It was an ambitious goal, but I knew people who believed in the cause and it was just a matter of removing obstacles.” Members picked up items all over the East Bay and people from across the US and even Korea sent items through an Amazon wish list. They surpassed their goal by four car seats.

new moms care for their children at home, leaving behind a workplace where they were recognized for their knowledge and skills. “When you become a mother, there’s often a struggle to reconcile your new role with who you were and what you did before, especially when it comes to your professional identity.” says Bowen. The Learning LAB promotes knowledge sharing by mothers in their areas of expertise, from yoga and physical therapy to combatting imposter syndrome. “It’s important for all these incredibly talented women to be able to qualify, quantify, and share their skills.” The Family Support LAB supports both parents and children through family playdates and other networking events. Most members are new to the area and new to being parents, both of which have obstacles of their own. The goal of the Family Support LAB is to provide resources to both mothers and fathers. On Mom’s Night Out/Dads Night In, the mothers go out of the town while the fathers get together to spend downtime with their kids. The goal is to combat the status quo: fathers around the world tend to spend very little time with their kids. Kore-

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Thou Shalt Not Forget

‘‘

Lim’s village was on the way to Seoul, im Il-sung introduced us,” Lim with North Korean soldiers frequently passing Ok-ryeon, 82, says laughing through, stopping to load weapons and supas she enters the home she plies onto their wagons and donkeys. “North shares with her husband Korean soldiers would capture normal peoSeo In-gyu, 88. They met in 1956 in Mokpo ple, including civil soldiers on the street, and after the Korean War forced both of them out put them into trucks. My brother, who was 22 of their hometowns; Lim from a small village years old at the time, was out and was taken near the 38th Parallel; Seo from Naju, a city in away by them,” Lim says. They later found out the southern province of Jeollanamdo. that he was taken to a prisoner of war camp “His aunt went to the same church as me in Geoje Island, south of Busan. “My brother so we exchanged photos of each other. That’s was a patriot and I guess he joined the rebel how we met,” Lim says. forces and ended up being killed. He has not While Seo and Lim are happily married been heard from since,” she says. now, they experienced the war very differentSoon after, an attack on the North meant ly; Lim, spent many nights sleeping in a cave that her village became too dangerous to stay for safety, lost her brother to North Korean solin. Her family fled to Gaepunggun, a town diers and returned to the north for her mother, about four kilometers away which became a while Seo spent the war fighting alongside the refuge area for people fleeing. US army in search of intelligence. With little food, they waited July 27, 2016 marks the 63rd anThat’s how until things calmed down beniversary of the end of the Korean refugees lived. fore returning to their village War, when a permanent line was Everybody only to be forced out again. drawn dividing the peninsula into suffered. It was a few months into the communist North and the dem- Lim Ok-ryeon the war when Seo, 24 at the ocratic South. While the armistice time, went to the south-western city of Daegu. The government headquarters had been temporarily relocated there from Seoul and Seo was accompanying his father, an elected member of parliament, who had to attend a meeting. At the same time, the US army was in the area looking for a Korean-English interpreter. Seo approached them and was then asked to join them on the frontline. With his fathers approval, he accepted the job and three days later he became the first Korean to work ended the bloodshed, it separated families for with the US Army 2nd Division Counter Intelligenerations to come and birthed a secretive gence Corps (CIC) during the war. state that has survived on fear and indoctrinaHis job brought him into some brutal sitution. For Lim, the idea of a permanently divided ations: sleepless nights, pulling corpses from a Korean peninsula didn’t seem real until after river, and witnessing friends die in battle. she fled. It wasn’t long before Seo found himself in a Lim was a 17-year-old student when the city north of Pyongyang, North Korea looking war broke out on June 25, 1950. It wasn’t unfor military intelligence when bombs began to usual to hear gunfire in her town as the hosfall. For three days, he and his comrades retaltility between the North and South was well iated against a Chinese attack from a hole they known. That morning, she took shelter in a dug in a mountain. There was no time to rest; purpose-built hole under her house with her just the constant sound of gunfire in what Seo parents, two sisters and brother until the blasts describes as “the most critical fighting” he has stopped. Soon she realized this was much ever witnessed. more serious.

...

“We were surrounded by them,” he recalls. “Continually day and night they came over to us.” After the third day of fighting, they were saved by the arrival of British soldiers who fought back enough to secure a safe passage out for those who could make it. “So many friends, so many US army soldiers died,” he says. “Some of them, I am still thinking …” his voice trails off. Even though some details have been lost to the years, Seo describes the brutality of the war through the friends he lost and the soldiers that died. The loss of life is a painful memory that isn’t easy to forget. With almost three years in the same division, Seo developed the type of kinship with his comrades that can only be achieved through living a shared experience. They gave him the nickname “Joy” because, as Seo puts it, his name is “difficult to pronounce for American people.” When talking about the sense of comradeship they shared, he can’t help but feel sad thinking about how many of them actually died during the war. Lim returned to Gaepunggun for a second time after Chinese forces retook Seoul in January 1951. The area was full of refugees. With little food and money, she sold her clothes in order to feed her family. At night, she slept in a hole in a mountain near the house they were staying in because it felt safer. Chinese soldiers combed the area and took what they needed, but when they approached Lim and her sisters, their attitude changed. “The young soldiers who went to the house I was staying in were nice, saying they were from Shanghai and sometimes offering food. The reason I think is they tried to look good to us,” Lim says. “I realized not all Chinese soldiers were mean,” she says. Lim spent the winter there. Her father left for Gangwha Island, west of Gaepunggun, to find work and she soon followed with her sisters. Her mother stayed behind, thinking that the family would return once the war ended. Lim and her sisters walked about 12 kilometers to a quayside where they took a boat to Gangwha Island to meet their father. North Korean soldiers were active in the area - if they had been caught, they would have been killed. Bad news greeted them on their arrival; there was talk of an end to the war which would result in a permanent divide between the North and South. Faced with the possibility of never seeing her mother again Lim made the journey back to Gaepunggun. She was one of the only two people on the boat heading

Memories of the Korean War

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com July 2016 29

north. “After getting off the boat, I was lost. I kept walking towards the North, praying to God, not knowing even where I was,” she says. Her mother was surprised to see her. The next morning they made their way to the quay and were soon reunited with her father and sisters on Gangwha Island. Soon, she and her family took the boat to Inchon and arrived in Mokpo in August 1953 where they began the difficult challenge of rebuilding their lives. “We led a wretched life,” she says. “Barely made ends meet. My father started a rag business at the market on a very small scale for a living. That’s how refugees lived. Everybody suffered,” she says. As Lim started to rebuild her life, Seo was preparing to end his time with the US army. Throughout our interview, he describes his time with the CIC through the suffering he endured and the suffering he witnessed. “At that time, we couldn’t think about our families. You can’t imagine how the war was because so many people were killed by bombing,” he says. One incident in particular sums up the brutality of the war. Seo spent some months by the Nakdang River in a heated exchange with the Chinese. When the hard rain came, so did the bodies. He and his comrades used a net to catch any passing bodies; those of South Korean and US soldiers were brought to a graveyard, those of North Korean soldiers were pushed under the net. “ThouAt that time, sands and thousands of dead bodies,” he we couldn’t think says. about our families. “That was the Korean War.” You can’t imagine Despite his service, Seo has not rehow the war was ceived any official recognition from the because so many US army. The one medal he does have is people were killed from the Korean government, which arby bombing. rived through the mail one day in 2013 — - Seo In-gyu 60 years after the armistice was signed between the North and South. Seo wasn’t technically a member of the US military or the Korean military and therefore wasn’t on any records. He previously wrote a personal account of his time with the US military for the Korean Ministry of Defense, yet was still surprised when the medal arrived without warning. When the war ended Seo returned to his family in Busan. He soon exchanged photographs with Lim through the help of his aunt. Seo says Lim “looked good” and he made the trip up to Mokpo just to meet her. Lim says she wasn’t too fussed after seeing his photograph. “Back then I really didn’t care. Just got married. I wouldn’t do that now,” she says laughing. “But,” she adds, “he must have seen something.” This year, they celebrate their 60th wedding anniversary.

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Story by Anita McKay Photos by Erika Hughes

C OMMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Target

Practice

Korean traditional archery offers something far beyond the typical

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Story by Liam Ring Photos by Blair Kitchener

I briefly wonder if this is some sort of zen-like exercise, where you have to envisage the target and then aim for some illusory object.

arrow’s arc hits its apex and begins to drop. Three: the arrow reaches its destination and as that fourth second strikes it bounces off its target and drops to the ground. A light goes off to announce Andrew’s success and I give a silent clap of appreciation. “Was that a good hit?” I ask, not for the first or last time showing my ignorance of Korean archery. There is, I am kindly but expertly informed, no such thing… it’s either a hit or a miss, as the arrow with its brass blunt tip just slams and bounces off the target 145 meters away. Four more of those and he can start on his 290 meter round trip to retrieve his arrows. So a cardio workout comes free with the archery. A member of the SuRak Jung range – one of about three hundred on the peninsula and 10 in the Seoul area - since 2003, Andrew initially got involved as a way to meet Koreans outside of the typical working environment. “I was looking for some sort of traditional sport element combined with open hours and a social atmosphere” Having previously practiced Hapkido (a Korean traditional martial art) he had some preconceived notions on what to expect. A sport with a strong military background, but that has changed over the centuries to take in more of a martial arts and exercise focus along with a membership club atmosphere, the realities were somewhat different to expectations. First off were the plethora of stretches and muscle building exercises required before he could even contemplate stepping up to the target. The correct stance. The appropriate breathing. The combination of

Namsan offering walk-ons and introductory courses. Many ranges (away from your typical, somewhat anaemic sports complexes) offer absolutely beautiful scenery, with their own personality, and stand as an antidote to a city of high rises and incessant construction. However, wherever you find yourself, it really comes down to just you and the target. Five arrows in your quiver and your bow. And the feeling of camaraderie that comes when you become known on your range and the occasional makgeolli afternoon. Membership can take time, with any neophyte requiring a current member to vouch for them and once admitted, the initiation fees start at around KRW200,000 per year with approximately KRW30,000 due monthly after that. Bows and arrows are also a cost, although initially most ranges have bows and arrows that a person can borrow as they determine whether the sport is for them. The previous clouds have given way to a bright early June sunshine and there is a freshness in the air at odds with the typical Seoul breathing experience. Asked for any other thoughts on the sport, Andrew brings to mind a Korean expression: “With your left hand you push the mountain, with your right hand you pull the tail of the tiger.” Drawing the bow means a fifty-fifty expansion of your body to full draw. This is only one of the things to consider in archery, and Andrew explains how he likes the “... combination of mental and physical focus. There is so much involved in the technique. “I relish in the constant 2-way

more info There is also a hands-on introduction to Korean traditional archery available and a museum inside the HwaSeong Walled Fortress in Suwon. tel 02 2273 2061 website cafe.daum.net/sukhojung (Korean language only) direction SuRak Jung archery range is a twenty minute walk from Danggolgae Station on line 4. To find out more about ranges in your area e-mail(Andrew White) andrewprofsr@yahoo.com

C OMMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

With your left hand you push the mountain, with your right hand you pull the tail of the tiger.

battle between mentally focusing on the multiple details of good physical technique, and emptying all thought and forgetting everything and shoot.” This is a sport that offers a strong physical and mental workout. In addition to those curious about the sport, archery enthusiasts from across the world are known to try their hand when visiting Korea, often with far less success than they had initially expected. That time to build up the muscles and technique is vital in getting your first attempt anywhere close to hitting the target, and even the most adept at other forms will often see their arrow fall around half way. A morning of 45 shots completed, Andrew stows away his equipment and ponders the coming work week. Concerns such as wind, arrow trajectory and the geography of the land will soon give way to thoughts of classes, meetings and grading. It’s been a long, fulfilling road since he first set foot on an archery range in 2003, and Andrew still has the personal ambition to move up past his present rank of 3 Dan, equivalent to third degree black belt in the sport. Ultimately though, his new goal is to see more non-Koreans involved in a sport quite different to our typical view of archery, and take advantage of a world that is slowly opening up to foreigner interest. It is, Andrew underlines, a sport with fantastic spiritual and physical rewards, but patience is the ultimate virtue if you want to see that light signifying your first hit come on. “Hitting (the target),” jokes Andrew, “that’s a life-time of practice.” A lifetime between the mountain and the tiger.

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mental and physical focus needed. Almost a month of exercises and stretches had passed before his coach felt he was ready. “It was pouring rain that day,” Andrew remembers, “and you could barely see [the target] down the shooting line. We were about the only people there and suddenly he says let’s go.” And the result? “Well… me shooting blindly into the torrential rain and then you see that light to show I had hit the target.” He smiles and shakes his head at the memory. First shot achieved then. While the Korean government has been looking in recent years to build awareness of Korean culture and tradition in general, traditional archery continues to lag behind in non-Korean involvement. “As things stand,” admits Andrew, “I can probably count the number of foreigners involved in the sport on both hands.” However, this is a sport that is seeking greater international involvement, with a number of ranges - such as the SeokHo Jung and SuRak Jung archery range on Mt.

e are a twenty minute walk from Danggolgae Station, with the sun twinkling through the clouds and the cloying humidity of a Korean mid-summer not quite upon us yet. On this early bank holiday Monday, not too many people have brought themselves out here, and those who have are enjoying a morning of serenity much at odds with the general cacophony of day-to-day Korean life. Andrew White smiles at one of his fellow archers, nods to another, and steadies himself for his first shot of the morning. I briefly wonder if this is some sort of zen-like exercise, where you have to envisage the target and then aim for some illusory object, but no. Far off in the distance… about the distance to a solid par three in golf… I can see a large wooden structure, about the size of a man on a horse. He removes one of the five arrows from his quiver, draws back, steadies himself and releases. One second: the arrow flies from his bow and reaches into the cloudy sky. Two: the

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Music in the mountains & fun in the sun The two largest music festivals in Korea - Valley Rock Festival and Pentaport Rock Festival are set to kick off in July and August with packed lineups. Story by Emma Kalka Photos by Valley Rock Music & Arts Festival, Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival

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ith summer in full swing, the time is upon us for the two biggest music festivals in South Korea. With a little bit of everything, Valley Rock Music & Arts Festival and Pentaport Rock Festival have put together line-ups for music lovers of all ages.

available for those who don’t wish to rough it in a tent. Each package is for three days/two nights as folks can choose between condos at Yangji Pine Resort or a room at Ichon Miranda Hotel, with prices ranging from KRW 440,000 to KRW 660,000. There is also a jjimjilbang package ranging KRW 18,000-22,000 per night. All packages include a free shuttle to the festival grounds and can be booked through the Valley Rock Festival website. Festival passes are KRW 160,000 for one day and KRW 260,000 for three days and can be purchased at the venue or online at Interpark, Yes24, Ticketline, Hana Ticket, A.Ticket and Naver Booking. And if you are looking for an easy way to get to and from the festival, never fear. Organizers have set up three shuttle routes from Seoul to Jisan Resort that leave from Seoul Station, Yangjae Station and Kiheung Station. Buses from Seoul and Yangjae leave at 10am, 12pm and 4pm every day of the festival, and return trips will leave every hour from 12pm to 4am. Tickets are KRW 15,000 each way. From Kiheung Station, buses leave every two hours from 11am to 7pm and return every two hours from 8pm to 4am. Tickets are KRW 10,000. All tickets must be booked in advance on Interpark. website valleyrockfestival.mnet.com/2016/

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

After two years at Daebu Island in Ansan, Valley Rock Festival is making its grand return to its roots. At its original stomping ground of Jisan Resort - located just south of Seoul - brace yourself for a weekend of music in the mountains on July 22-24. Those who suffered through midge bites and hour-long hikes from their cabins to the festival in Ansan

will rejoice; the festival organizers explain “we listened to and reflected the opinions of the audience by returning to the space that created good memories for Valley Rock”. This year, Red Hot Chili Peppers headline the show on Friday, with DJ/producer Zedd taking to the main stage on Saturday and Disclosure and Travis rounding things out on Sunday. Other names to hit the different stages at the event are Kula Shaker, Biffy Clyro, Sekai No Owari and Tegan and Sara. As always, the festival also selects a full line-up of local artists ranging from bands Lowdown30, Bye Bye Birdman, Guckkasten and Jang Kiha and the Faces, to Korean hip-hop and R&B artists Zico and Dean. Valley Rock Music & Arts Festival also includes a variety of food and drink booths alongside a busking area and various interactive sections. Past festivals have included swimming pools or water areas, so it might also be a good idea to bring along a swimsuit. Camping is available on the festival grounds, though fires and cooking are not allowed. Tickets cost KRW 15,000 and tent rental is available for an extra KRW 57,000. Tickets must be purchased online at Interpark, Yes24, Ticketlink, Hana Ticket or A Ticket and are only available to three-day ticketholders. There are also accommodation packages

ENTERTAINMENT

Valley Rock Music & Arts Festival | July 22-24

information on VIP tickets to be announced on the Pentaport website at a later date. To make coming and going from the festival grounds more convenient, Pentaport is offering shuttle routes from three locations in Seoul to the event and at four stops from the festival back to the city. Buses will leave from Sadang, City Hall and Hapjeong at 9.30am, 11.30am and 3.30 pm. The return journey sees shuttles running to Hapjeong, Gangbyeon, Express Bus Terminal and Jamsil every hour from 10.50pm to 1.50am. Several other routes are also available from outside Seoul, including Daegu, Busan, Daejeon and Gwangju. Tickets can be reserved online through the festival website and until August 10, a special oneway ticket is available for KRW 9,000. Regular one-way tickets cost KRW 14,000-15,000 with round trip tickets available at KRW 23,000 won. The weekend of the festival, shuttle tickets are KRW 15,000-16,000 one-way and can only be purchased between 12pm and 8pm. All tickets come with a free drink on the bus. website pentaportrock.com

Emma Kalka is a freelance writer who runs the blog “Discovering the Korean Underground” on Tumblr, which focuses on the Korean underground hip-hop scene. Check it out here, discoveringkoreanunderground.tumblr.com.

Hailed as the oldest music in Korea, Pentaport celebrates its 11th edition this year on August 12-14 at Songdo Pentaport Park in Incheon,

with a strong lineup featuring headliners Weezer, Panic! At the Disco, Suede, Two Door Cinema and Nell. Other foreign acts, including The Oral Cigarettes, Run River North, At The Drive-In, Crossfaith, Nothing But Thieves and Black Honey, will join locals Idiotape, Crash, The Koxx, Galaxy Express, Rudepaper and many more, with a special Rapbeat Show stage featuring Korean hip-hop artists Geeks, Incredivle, JaMezz, Microdot and Zion.T. There will be a campground at the festival with tent rental services available. Information on camping tickets and the cost of rentals will be available at a later time on the concert’s website. Until July 31, tickets for Pentaport are available for a discount, with one-day tickets going for KRW 123,500, twoday tickets for KRW 171,000 and three-day tickets costing KRW 209,000. After that, tickets will be regularly priced at KRW 130,000 won, KRW 180,000 and KRW 220,000 for one, two, and three days, respectively. They can be purchased in advance on Interpark, Yes24, Melon Ticket, Timon and Enticket with

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Pentaport Rock Festival | August 12-14

Life on ESD

No Regrets, Every Single Day

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Story by Hallie Bradley Photos by Dong Hyuk Gwak and Hallie Bradley

eing an indie musician in Korea is not easy in this K-pop or no-pop world and nobody knows that better than the trio that makes up Every Single Day. Once known as the “unlucky band” due to a series of mishaps near the start of their career, from mismanagement to no management and some fumbles in between, they’ve managed to overcome, stay true to themselves and now have fans from all around the world. Their trajectory from the beginning until now has included dramas, festivals, six albums and three EPs. For them, staying true to their roots and never deviating from what they wanted to make has led them to the kind of success that few indie bands in Korea find, but if you ask them, they still feel like underdogs scratching to get to the top. Debuting in 1997, the original members of

Every Single Day, Busan natives guitarist Je Woo Jeong and bassist and singer Sung Nam Moon, probably did not see TV dramas in their future. However, for the past six years, they’ve been producing break-out music for dramas like I Can Hear Your Voice, Pasta, Golden Time, Cheongdam-dong Alice,

Busan. Every time one of the Busan bands was booked, they would ensure that another one was there with them so that they were all making it - helping support the fact that they were living on their own in the big city up north without the family network that the Seoul-based groups already had.

Debuting in 1997, the original members of Every Single Day, Busan natives guitarist Je Woo Jeong and bassist and singer Sung Nam Moon, probably did not see TV dramas in their future. Pinocchio and plenty more. The original trio moved from Busan to Seoul in the late nineties along with a few other Busan indie-rock groups including Rainy Sun, Ann, and Pia and together they named themselves the “Republic of Seagulls” after the mascot of

Literally taking on the starving artist cliché, the group pushed on and now seventeen years later, Every Single Day is still making their own music and doing it successfully. While fans of the band, which now includes drummer Hyo Young Kim, have been able to

“Sweet Illusion” one of the new songs on the album, and like many of their songs in the past, talks about the band’s perception of the world and society today. ing presence that it didn’t have originally. “Sweet Illusion,” one of the new songs on the album, and like many of their songs in the past, talks about the band’s perception of the world and society today. The lyrics describe how people are working so hard that they don’t even have a dream to work toward and if there’s no dream, there’s no hope, but many work toward this illusion that someday they will be able to move up. While the band doesn’t focus on the negative, the poppy song that is Sung Nam’s favorite off the album (because it is just the three-piece band playing together) does lend itself to the discussions currently happening all around the country about “Hell Joseon” and the unhappy working class. Je Woo’s favorite new song off the album, “Going Down,” has a deeper, calmer sound than the band’s usual upbeat melodies, which the guitarist liked from the start, he explained. From start to finish, the album is refreshing and fun and is a must-listen. The band have just wrapped up working on the drama Ms. Temper & Nam Jung Gi and will be performing more concerts and shows until the next drama season starts. To find out more and follow what they’re working on, head over to their Facebook page to support these underdogs that are still working away and making it work seventeen years later, Every Single Day.

Facebook @everysingledaykorea YouTube @bandeverysingleday Instagram @bandeverysingleday Hallie Bradley is a writer, educator, editor and more who has lived in Korea since 2006. Check out her website TheSoulofSeoul. net for more articles on culture, Korean traditions and the life of her growing multicultural family in Korea or follow her on Instagram @thesoulofseoulblog for photos along the way.

enjoy their music on TV, the band still take moments here and there to jump into the studio and record more personal albums when they can. The band just released their sixth full length album in December 2015, Nothing of It. The album features some new songs as well as some of their drama fan favorites that they either re-mastered or collaborated on. The song “Tick Tock” was originally from the drama Pasta and was the first drama that the band wrote and produced music for back in 2010. They decided to rework the song with the female voice of Lee Sang Yu (이상유) of Rocket Tree (로켓트리). While some of the re-worked songs were chosen because the band wanted to perfect them, “Going Down,” originally an instrumental background song from the drama Miss Korea, is showcased in its entirety with vocals included. Je Woo commented that three of their most popular songs and most consistently requested tunes – “Lucky Day”, “Sonagi” and “Echo” – were also chosen for collaboration because while they’ve enjoyed playing them again and again, they also wanted to mix it up a bit for themselves as well as the fans. “Lucky Day” was reworked with a reggae vibe and the brass stylings of fellow Busan natives the Ska Wakers (스카웨이커스). Friend and singer in No Brain (노브레인) Lee Sung Woo (이성우) jumped on board to give “Sonagi” a punk remix with Lee’s unique voice. To round out the collaborative effort, Jeong Cha Sik, another Busan native, who has the ability to sing both very low and very high octaves is used in the song “Hourglass” off of the Golden Time OST. His voice gives the song an eerie yet calm-

ENTERTAINMENT

Three by Intensity

July brings panic, goose bumps and secrets to the big screen

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos by HanCinema

ummer is traditionally a time for horrors and thrillers in Korea, with shocking scenes inducing goose bumps that supposedly cool audiences down from the oppressive heat outside. True to form, July boasts three particularly intense films designed to excite and thrill, from a couple harboring a dark secret, to a zombie apocalypse threatening to engulf Seoul, and even spies entering a communist-held Incheon paving the way for the daring landings during the Korean War. July is set to be an intense month for cinema fans!

Trick

When an investigative documentary producer falsely reports the misconduct of a food company, he loses his job and falls into depression. He receives a second chance to revive his career, however, when tasked with reporting the final days of a terminally ill man and his wife. Yet while the ratings soar, it becomes clear that agendas are being hidden by all involved.

Trick marks the feature length directorial debut of Lee Chang-yeol, who has surrounded himself with experienced acting talent. The three stars have all worked in the film and television industry for years, with titles including Pieta, The Man from Nowhere, and Haeundae between them. Did you know? Kang Ye-won is quickly making herself something of a high-end indie queen. Her most recent film Insane was a surprise mid-level hit back in April, where she played the based-on-a-true-story role of a woman wrongfully locked in a psychiatric hospital.

Release date July Directed by Lee Jae-han Starring Liam Neeson, Lee Jung-jae, Lee Beom-soo, Jin Sae-yeon Distributed by CJ Entertainment

Operation Chromite - the codename for the Battle of Incheon in 1950 - depicts the events that led up to the daring landings at and recapture of the coastal city from North Korean forces. While many are aware of General MacArthur’s role in overseeing the military assault which turned the tide of the Korean War, lesser known is the story of covert Operation X-Ray, in which eight members of the Korean Navy infiltrated the communist base in Incheon with specific directives to carry out. This is their story. When Operation Chromite was first announced, the film made headlines largely

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Operation Chromite

ENTERTAINMENT

Release date July 14 Directed by Lee Chang-yeol Starring Kang Ye-won, Lee Jung-jin, Kim Tae-hoon. Distributed by Storm Pictures

for the fact that Irish superstar Liam Neeson was locked-in to portray General MacArthur. His appearance is indeed cause for celebration as not only is he a fine actor, but his presence will likely guarantee an increased interest in Korean cinema in North America and Europe. Neeson’s addition to Operation Chromite, while significant, is more of a supporting role as the story itself is concerned with the extremely dangerous covert missions assigned to a special forces unit led by Captain Jang Hak-soo (Lee Jung-jae), as they race against time to prepare for the Incheon landings. Did you know? Director Lee Jae-han is no stranger to war films having helmed 71 - Into the Fire in 2009, while dramatic scenes are likely to strongly resonate as he also presided over classic K-film A Moment to Remember.

Train to Busan

Did you know? Train to Busan is actually a sequel. It is set one day after animated film Seoul Station - also by director Yeon Sang-ho - which explores the origins of the zombie virus in the Korean capital. However, while both films are connected, they are also standalone stories.

Film fans - remember to check The Korean Film Council (KOFIC) website regularly for updates on English subtitled screenings occurring in Seoul. www.koreanfilm.or.kr/jsp/schedule/subtitMovie.jsp

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

When a mysterious virus starts spreading around seoul turning people into zombies, panic very quickly spreads throughout the korean capital. Luckily for the passengers on board the high speed ktx train from seoul to busan, they miss the beginning of the outbreak…until the zombies start coming for them too. As the passengers fight to stay alive, who will survive the journey to the port city? Train to busan premiered at cannes film festival earlier this year in the

midnight screenings category, and was rapturously embraced by the notoriously picky audience in attendance. Director yeon sangho was particularly praised by critics and fans alike for his impressive visual prowess, and for employing zombies to symbolise social issues within korea itself - notably the rising economic disparity among citizens and the government’s recent response to the mers outbreak.

Release date July 20 Directed by Yeon Sang-ho Starring Gong Yu, Ma Dong-seok, Jung Yu-mi, Choi Woo-sik Distributed by Next World Entertainment

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com July 2016 38

LiquidGold

Music, Video & Performance Art with Minouk Lim Story by Seolhui Lee Photos Courtesy of Minouk Lim

of a truck, shouting phrases like, “What have er name now known around the world, South Korean art- I lost? I have nowhere to go, I’m a new town ghost,” and “Hello Lotte, Shinsegae greets me, ist Minouk Lim was born in Daejeon in 1968 and current- re-modeling Saemaeul, not redevelopment, Analogue body, Digital mind” to capture the ly splits her time between Seoul, Berlin and many other locations. Lim originally en- transitions taking place across Korea. Clara Kim, a senior curator at the Tate rolled as a student in the painting department of Ewha Womans University in Seoul, Modern in London, says Minouk Lim’s artbut left her degree program to pursue her work represents these areas of redevelopeducation at the École Nationale Supérieure ment as “liquid” architecture because the des Beaux-Arts de Paris. After graduating in present and future of Seoul co-exists simul1994, she has since used that time to write, taneously in the same space. In this case, compose music, make videos “liquid” is a significantly repand design installation perforresentative term for Lim’s artAnd just as mances. With an ambition to work. As liquid is an entity that the name Minouk create pieces that transcend the flows and disappears, it can Lim has become boundaries of art and media, also be very painful. Lim beinternationally Lim has also remained uniquely lieves in the power of these acrecognized in the tuned to her artistic expression tions, and even though “people contemporary art just care about them for a short as she focuses on the effects of field, her artworks time,” she trusts the “power of South Korea’s rapid democratoo draw attention sadness” held over the comtization and industrialization to these themes in munity as it represents a very Korea as well as primitive emotion. abroad. Mirroring this primitiveness of emotion, the materials Minouk Lim collects and uses in her artwork are fragile and weak. She always incorporates delicate materials like glue, paraffin, broken glass, feathers, flowing weeds and even sponges into her artwork. With these delicate materials, the artist expresses many Korean and international issues in areas intransitions. And just as the name Minouk cluding redevelopment, multi-cultural famLim has become internationally recognized ilies, massacres, and even the unification of in the contemporary art field, her artworks North and South Korea. Minouk Lim’s art too draw attention to these themes in Korea projects cherish discarded items that society as well as abroad. believes do not have any value because they Describing her own work as “liquid,” fall on opposite ends of usefulness: either so fans and art enthusiasts often cite the artist’s abundant that they’re seen everywhere or no 2005 video New Town Ghost as her most longer exist in any practical sense. This siturepresentative piece from her collection. In ation is often found in South Korean history this video, a young woman with short hair as society was structuring its own modernand wild eyes raps next to a drummer on top ization, resulting in the loss of entire phys-

ical areas, places or even people through the passing of time. Making a note of such loss is Lim’s The Weight of Hands (2010) and the FireCliff series (2010-present), where the artist uses moving images in a performance video which is mediated through the lens of an infrared camera to deeply lament the disappearance of these areas, places, and people while simultaneously recalling memories which existed before. Although Lim’s art may look political, the pieces are not just about being strong; the works also represent sadness, which co-exists alongside powerful emotions. Admirers may contemplate their own life and what is happening to others on the other side of the world. For example, Lim’s video New Town Ghost visualizes the problems of gentrification as well as thoughts and views on globalization. Through her artwork, I personally feel that her art can have unlimited power, and that really affects me.

Website www.minouklim.com

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The artist Minouk Lim is currently living in Germany through the Artists-in-Berlin Program of the German Academic Exchange Service / Deutscher Akademischer Austauschdienst (DAAD), having just finished her solo exhibition, The Promise of If (2015) - at PLATEAU Samsung Museum of Art in Seoul, South Korea and United Paradox at Portikus in Frankfurt, Germany. She recently exhibited the installation Strange Fruit (2016) at the 20th Sydney Biennale and also participated in the opening performance and displayed her installation Navigation ID (2014) at the 10th Gwangju Biennale. Lim is the recipient of multiple art prizes such as 2015 Absolut Awards (Stockholm, Sweden), the 2012 Korea Artist Prize (co-organized by SBS Foundation and MMCA, Korea) and the 7th HermĂ¨s Foundation Missulsang (2007 Seoul, Korea) among others, and her artwork will soon be exhibited at the Setouchi Triennale in Japan and the Taipei Biennale.

The Possibility of the Half, 2012

New Town Ghost, 2005

The Weight of Hands, 2010

The Possibility of the Half, 2012

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Protable Keeper, 2009

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

S t ay c a t i o n

koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hidden coastal

he Korean coastline has one of the best kept summer secrets enveloping the peninsula. With three quarters of the country surrounded by the East Sea, Yellow Sea and Korean Strait, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no reason not to head to one of these beautifully and mainly untouched beaches this stay-cation. Here are our top three tips:

Jeongdongjin Beach

Daecheon Beach is nestled on the West Coast of the country and is famous for its mineral-rich mud. The Boryeong Mud Skincare Center is a must for visitors who come from all corners of Korea to slather themselves in the mud, believed to contain therapeutic treatments for many a skin disorder. The beach itself does have white sands and some of the clearest waters found around Korea’s coastline. The local Jogak Sculpture Park and Dol Stone Park offer visitors a cultural escape from the beach but with waters so clear, it’s not really necessary. Beach areas remain open until August 21 with official swimming hours operating between 9am11pm. Daecheon has a number of restaurants and coffee shops dotted between the neighboring motels and convenience stores for an uninterrupted weekend break by the sea. The biggest draw for the town is, of course, the annual Boryeong Mud Festival. Taking place between July 15-24 this year, expect flocks of visitors to enjoy ten days of sun, sea, mud and more. The locals tend to offer anything and everything mud-related so prepare for mud games, mud cosmetics and mud mud more. Evenings will be filled with music and fireworks so best get cleaned up for dinner.

Jeongdongjin prides itself on the beach’s proximity from the station. And it’s not wrong. Rock up on the platform a mere five and a half hours from Cheongyangni Station and there’s the sand, sea and sunshine to your east. Jeongdongjin has over 250 meters of lush sand with three main swimming areas and also spots for banana boat and jet-ski rides. The town itself stretches across a main strip with numerous restaurants, coffee shops and convenience stores at the ready. Joengdongjin is naturally famous for all of its seafood with shellfish a local delicacy as the huge mussels and oysters on offer can do no wrong. The town also offers some recreational activities with a railway museum, the Sculpture Sunrise Park and the tourist train all popular with daytrippers. Jeongdongjin is also renowned for its famous sunrise (a mustsee for New Year’s Day), as well as the fully operational sea train that rides up and down the coast with its gimmicky coastal-facing seats. Jeongdongjin hosts many motels and hotels with the famous Sun Cruise Resort and Yacht perching precariously on a beach front hill. The local center for Gangneung and Mount Goseong are also great options for weekenders for a tranquil and relaxing trip away to the East Coast.

Probably the most famous beach in Korea, every knows Haeundae. The southern coastal beach, which spans more than 1.5km of clear sandy beach, is a firm choice for any season. The beach town of Haeundae is perhaps most famous for their annual film festival in October. However, during the summer, discover another side to this bustling sea town. With cultural events held all year round, the summer embraces visitors with numerous games and activities in its Folk Square hub while sun bathers can enjoy a bigger swimming area, available until August 31. Busan also operates longer hours on the beach, opening from 7pm9pm between July 11 -24 for extended nighttime activities. The city itself has many other attractions along the coast, including the Sea Life Busan Aquarium and the Goeun Photo Museum. Visitors can also enjoy a trip to the Paradise Casino for a bit of a flutter or simply enjoy the outdoor market which is on hand for some weird and wonderful food delights. The city has also developed the Haeundae Special Tourist Zone. Enter the zone for a plethora of leisure activities and food offerings. Busan has its own share of seafoods - octopus being the local specialty which can be enjoyed at any of the numerous outdoor eateries available between the station and beach area. Be sure to visit the center for your one-stop guide to Haeundae. Directions Regular KTX service from Seoul Station (line 1 and Line 4) to Busan. Take the subway to Haeundae Station (Busan Subway Line 2), Exit 5 and walk straight for about 500m. website eng.haeundae.go.kr (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese)

Directions (Train) Regular trains from Cheongnyangni Station (Line 1) to Jeongdongjin Station. (Bus) From Gangneung Intercity / Express Bus Terminal, take Bus No. 109. Get off at Jeongdong and walk 300m. website www.gntour.go.kr (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese)

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Directions From Seoul Central City Bus Terminal, take an express bus to Boryeong (보령). / From Yongsan Station or Yeongdeungpo Station, take a train to Daecheon Station. / From Boryeong Bus Terminal, take a bus bound for Daecheon Beach. (10min intervals) website www.boryeong.chungnam.kr and www.mudfestival.or.kr (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese)

Haeundae Beach

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Daecheon Beach

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Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring and Boryeong Mud Festival

secrets

Discover the Korean coastline for one of the best kept summer secrets enveloping the peninsular

summer parklife

Whether botanical, water, or themed, Korea has it covered.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

S t ay c a t i o n

Story by Naomi Blenkinsop Photos by Sangnok Resort, Taejongdae Resort Park, Busan Infrastructure Corporation, Marine Park, Bucheon Mureungdowon Arboretum and Cristian Bucur

ummer is typically the time for much needed vacations and day trips with family and friends. Before booking an expensive trip abroad, however, check out what South Korea has to offer. Between waterparks, resorts, theme parks and national parks spread throughout the peninsula, there’s plenty of fun ways to enjoy all that South Korea summer sun. With numerous outdoor summer festivals taking place this season, there’s now an extra incentive to take a day or weekend trip out of Seoul. Below is just a sample of what South Korea has to offer outdoors, so whatever your plans, there’s no need to book an expensive trip with so much adventure available on your doorstep. Wherever you choose to visit in South Korea, just be sure to slather on the sunscreen and bring lots of water to keep that summer heat at bay.

Seo gwi po

Seogwipo Marine Park

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Established in 2007, Seogwipo Provincial Marine Park on Jeju Island captures the stunning natural beauty of the island with breathtaking views of the nearby sea cliffs, other islands and blue seas. The Marine Park has quickly become a top tourist destination on Jeju Island and is recognized by UNESCO as part of the Jeju Island Biosphere Reserve. If that were not enough to entice visitors, the Marine Park is also the first national site to offer a first-hand experiential trip with whales and dolphins. Visitors can marvel at the many unique and novel marine animals and plants on the second floor of the aquarium. Or take your marine park experience to the next level and enjoy some one-on-one time with the dolphins. The dolphin trainer experience involves snorkeling and swimming with dolphins and even dolphin-diving for an unforgettable experience. Prices for the park vary depending on the activity you choose and visitors must make advance reservations for all activities with the dolphins. ADD 132, Hwasunjungang-ro, Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do Directions Andeok Nonghyup: Jeju Intercity 700, 750, 900 Walk toward Hwasun Four-way Intersection and turn right. Continue straight for 700 m. Marine Park will be on the right. tel 064-792-7776 Website www.marinepark.co.kr Admission Adults KRW 9,000 / Youths KRW 8,000 / Children (24 months and more) KRW 7,000 won (separate pricing for dolphin experience)

ADD 24, Jeonmang-ro, Yeongdo-gu, Busan Directions From Busan Station, take Bus 88 or 101 and get off at Taejongdae Cliff Bus Stop. Other buses bound for Taejongdae: No. 8, 13, 30, 88, or 101. tel 82-51-405-2004 website etour.busan.go.kr Admission Free of charge

Bucheon Botanical Gardens The Bucheon Botanical Gardens are a natural paradise and makes for a very educational and entertaining summer day trip or afternoon out for families and friends alike. Located conveniently at Kkachiul Station on Line 7, the Botanical Gardens display a total of 310 species and 9,975 plants in its central garden. Paying homage to its host city, the greenhouse was built in the shape of a peach flower, which is the symbol of Bucheon. Visitors have ample ground to cover with five different thematic gardens on offer, including the aquatic plant garden and the tropical plant garden. Continuing its theme of nature and natural products, the Botanical Gardens also offer soap-making classes and nature-based arts and crafts classes periodically throughout the year for adults and children at very reasonable prices. The Botanical Gardens make a great day trip especially for those with children as the Children’s Zoo and Natural Ecological Museum are nearby. Bucheon

ADD 660, Gilju-ro, Wonmi-gu, Bucheon, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea Directions Kkachiul Station (Seoul Subway Line 7, Exit 1). Bucheon Botanical Garden is located 320m ahead on the right. tel 032-625-2811-13 Website www.bucheon.go.kr Admission Adults KRW 1,500 / Children KRW 700

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Taejeongdae Resort Park is located in Busan and is considered one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city. Named after the 29th king of the Silla Kingdom, Taejongdae is especially famous for its rock beach. Taejungdae should definitely be on your Busan bucket list as it offers the perfect day trip with its spectacular views of the ocean and cliffs. Visitors can also find a temple, a gun range, walking trails, hot springs, boat cruises, museums and restaurants serving the fresh fish Busan is so famous for. Although it is possible to walk or hike through the park, there are transportation options available for those who wish to take it easy. The Danubi Train Course comes highly recommended and stops at 5 different points in the park. You can get off the train at any of these stops to explore but be warned: you may have to wait up to 30 minutes to catch another train.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Busan

Taejungdae Resort Park

Sangnok Resort Sangnok Aquapia Sangnok Aquapia, also known as “Water World” or “Water Paradise”, is located roughly one hour outside of Seoul in Cheonan, Chungcheonnam Province. Sangnok Aquapia is actually just one part of Sangnok Resort, which also consists of a hotel and Leisure Town. Sangnok Resort has been growing in popularity and is an ideal weekend getaway for Seoulites with one of the largest recreational complexes in Central Korea. Aquapia also boasts one of Korea’s largest indoor waterparks with waterslides, wave pools, and hot tubs. Some of its more popular features include a 12-meter high slide, a flow rider for those who enjoy surfing and a flowing stream pool which is sure to provide plenty of excitement with its fast current and waterfall-like effects. When you’re done cooling off at Aquapia, make your way over to Sangnok Resort’s amusement park, golf course or one of their many restaurants for a change of scene.

ADD 576, Susin-ro, Susin-myeon, Dongnam-gu, Cheonan-si, Chungcheongnam-do Directions From Cheonan Terminal, go out from Auli Shopping Mall’s front entrance, and take either the 402 or 501 bus to Aquapia. (Estimated 50 min. ride.) tel 82-41-560-9114 Website www.sangnokresort.co.kr Admission Adults & Youths KRW 35,000 won / Children 29,000 won

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Cheonan

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www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

sweet life sweet oak Augustin Flores brings the Smokehouse to Wonju Story by Matt Flemming Photos by Augustin Flores

he city of Wonju, in Gangwon Province, is only about 90 minutes from Seoul. However, when Augustin Flores, a native of Guam and former resident of Seoul, moved to Wonju to open Sweet Oak Kitchen and Smokehouse, an American-style barbecue restaurant, he took a considerably longer route to get there -one that took him literally all around the world. In December 2015, Flores opened Sweet Oak, a modern, sophisticated yet simple take on barbecue featuring pulled pork, chicken, homemade sausages, sides and a hefty portion of experimentation. The eatery was an immediate hit with the local expat community and Korean customers were not far behind. Flores, who first moved to Seoul in 2009, worked in publishing and design before conceiving of the idea for Sweet Oak idea almost three years prior to the restaurant’s opening. “I wish I had an interesting backstory of growing up around an uncle’s smokehouse in the South, or some other culinary upbringing like cooking with an Italian grandmother, but the truth is, I was a binge drinker when I lived in Seoul and on the days I was hungover, I would binge-watch food instructional videos and food shows on Youtube 12-to-14 hours straight,” said Flores. On one such day, Flores made a decision that changed his life. He decided he had soaked up enough of the Seoul lifestyle and said, “Fuck it, I’m going to culinary school.” He moved to London and enrolled at Le Cordon Bleu culinary school and cleaned up his life. A career as a chef became an almost singular focus – almost. Shortly after

time Open nightly from 6pm to 1am. Closed Tuesdays. ADD Gangwondo, Wonju, Musil-Dong, Bongbawi-Gil 76-2 (무실동, 봉바위길 76-2) Phone 010-8968-2855 Facebook HYPERLINK "http://www.facebook.com/ sweetoakSK" www.facebook.com/sweetoakSK Transport Buses from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal to Wonju leave every 20-30 minutes. The ride takes about 90 minutes. The restaurant is a KRW 3,000 taxi ride from Wonju Station (원주시외버스 터미널).

S t ay c a t i o n Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Korean ingredients, Flores opted to import flavors he thought his Korean customers would like. “For example, our island-style marinade, which probably historically has roots in Japanese and Korean barbecue anyway, is umami flavor profiled, a flavor Koreans are accustomed to. Koreans love spicy foods, and our Piri Piri chicken is spicy, but not a local kind of spicy.” While Linus and Manimal have provided proof of concept and become household names in Itaewon, Flores says he’s happy he started his restaurant in Wonju and he’s been able to prove his detractors wrong. “Everyone was telling me it was a bad idea; that it wouldn’t work in a town with more conservative eating habits. I knew I would do much better in a bigger city, but I had to think of my gross national happiness as well, and at the time, living and working in a small town, earning a happy amount and perhaps starting a family, sounded nice,” said Flores, who married Euna Kim in April. Flores gives plenty of credit to his wife, who he says runs the show. “Prior to Sweet Oak, I knew Euna as my significant other, travel buddy and best friend. I had absolutely no idea how much of a small business management machine this woman was. I don't think she knew either.” Flores, who no longer drinks alcohol, had a year-long inspirational journey that lead him to this point. As heartwarming as his story may be, the pulled pork at Sweet Oak is even better.

Sweet Oak is located in a burgeoning new arriving in London, Flores met Euna Kim, a commercial neighborhood in Wonju. Flores native of Gimhae, who was working at Heathhad two top of the line Lang 84" Kitchen Derow Airport at the time. luxe Smoker Cookers shipped to Korea, which “I was eating and learning how to cook gently cook Sweet Oak’s meats to perfection amazing food, traveling around Europe and each morning. As the name suggests, Flores in love. That summer we moved to Sydney burns Korean oak in his smoker. on a whim where we lived in this old studio “The choice of wood of most cookers is apartment that had this stunning panoramic, determined by what is available in the rebright, blue and sunny view of the harbor. It gion. Anyone can experiment with a variety was the best year of my life,” said Flores. of woods wherever they live, “In Sydney, I wanted to work but if you're cooking as often in small, independently run resFlores, as restaurants do, you're usualtaurants and kitchens where I who first moved ly using what's plentiful in the could learn more that would apto Seoul in area. I chose oak because it's a ply to my small-business goals. I 2009, worked in sustainable hardwood that is wasn’t very interested in workpublishing and abundant throughout the couning for big hotel kitchens, where design before try and because of its versatility I would be cracking a thousand conceiving of the as a smoking wood with a mild eggs for a buffet dish. I wanted idea for Sweet flavor. Korea already has a histo learn how kitchens processed Oak almost three tory of using oak for grilling, so orders, how they set up and and years prior to it was very easy to find several broke down each service, how the restaurant’s suppliers close to me who althey prepped foods and manopening. ready prepared and cured wood aged their kitchens,” he said. for cooking use.” After Sydney, Flores emHe says Sweet Oak’s most popular dishes barked upon a trip across the Southern US, have been the chicken, pulled pork poutine during which he had the chance to learn from and pulled pork sliders. “Pulled pork by itself celebrity pitmaster Myron Mixon at his home among Koreans gets mixed reviews. Personin Georgia. Mixon provided him with valually, I’m really happy with our two wood fireable advice on piecing together the menu for grilled chicken styles. We do a Guam/HaSweet Oak. It was not the first time Flores had waii-style marinade and a Portuguese-style learned from a legend. Two years before, he atspicy Piri Piri wet rub, both go well with the tended a barbecue cooking class at the house Korean palate.” Flores regularly experiments of Harry Soo. “It was the first time I tried real with different menu items such a housemade competition-level American barbecue. To this spicy chorizo sausage, galbi-marinated wagyu day, nothing else I’ve tried has come close,” he brisket and smoked beef rib fingers. says. “It was a blessing and a curse -- a blessLike a lot of Western restaurants in Korea, ing because it gave me a good benchmark to Sweet Oak has had to tackle the challenge aim for when I cook, a curse because, as far of creating a menu that is authentic enough as eating American barbecue goes, it was all to gain credibility with a discerning North downhill from there. Harry Soo’s brisket was American expat clientele while also appealing not just the best barbecue brisket I’ve eaten; it to Korean customers. Instead of incorporating was the best beef anything I’ve eaten.”

the cutting edge of jin hyung lee’s tradition buddhist sculptures

Peace and Tranquility in the heart of Daejeon

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

S t ay c a t i o n

Story by Hal Swindall Photos by AC Parsons and courtesy of Yeojin Buddhist Art Museum.

aejeon is a city mainly known for KAIST and myriad other scientific research institutes, as well as its extensive government complex. It is not usually associated with Buddhist art treasures. Yet in Yuseong-gu, in the northern part of town, lies Yeojin Buddhist Art Museum, which consists of over 20 statues and buildings spread over several hectares, all of which are devoted to the work of the visionary who founded it: Master Jin Hyung Lee, who is officially designated as an intangible cultural asset. For anyone able to make a day trip to Daejeon, or anyone spending time in the city, a trip to this amazing but restful place is well worthwhile. Surrounding the buildings with statues in this park-like environment keeps the museum in line with the Buddhist philosophy of temporary withdrawal for reflection from worldly cares. A native of Daejeon, Master Lee worked as a businessman for 20 years before retiring in 2001 to establish his museum-workshop-prayer complex amidst grass and trees. He finally completed it in its present form in 2010 and, with enlightening the general public

contains rooms for meditation and lectures, in mind, admission is free. and is of particular interest to Korean-speakThe largest structure in the Yeojin complex ing Buddhists. The building after the Gallery of is the three-story Gallery, which contains Masmost interest to a foreigner is the Second Galter Lee’s masterpieces as well as some antiques lery, which is Master Lee’s sales room and his (many on a grand scale). The Gallery’s interior workshop, which is located through a door at is dim, except for lights over the statues, and the back. The Second Gallery convery quiet — being there fultains a remarkable piece of statuary fills the Buddhist ideal of esThe Second Gallery called the Four Directions Buddha, caping everyday reality. Up contains which shows four Buddhas seated the wooded slope behind the a remarkable in the lotus position, each facing in a Gallery are large stone statpiece of statuary different compass direction. It symues of the Monk Putai, Budcalled the Four bolizes Buddha’s consciousness and dha with zodiac figures and Directions Buddha, beliefs spreading worldwide, which a mountain spirit. Down the which shows four is Master Lee’s ultimate objective. slope but a little north of the Buddhas seated in To that end, he has exhibited his Gallery is the Banyayongsun, the lotus position, work twice in Los Angeles in the a pavilion with mural painteach facing in past decade, although he is still far ings of people overcoming sufa different compass from being internationally known. fering in this life and following direction. More domestically, Master Lee the bodhisattva Inrowang, wants to provide ordinary Korewho leads them to heaven; the ans with the opportunity to understand Budpurpose of these paintings is to remind visitors dhism via immersion in Buddhist art, namely that heaven is always close by. his sculptures. Self-taught, he also wishes to Yeojin’s second largest structure is the Intrain apprentice Buddhist sculptors to perpettangible Asset Gallery, which is in the center uate their Korean tradition. In this, his phiof the complex. It is also three stories high, and

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

tens of millions of won. The main buyers of Master Lee’s products are temples, which prefer his larger works, particularly seated Buddhas and altar triads. Individuals prefer his medium to small works, which range from boy Buddhas to miniature reproductions of ancient statues of the sort found in the Gyeongju National Museum. Naturally, depictions of Amitabha Buddha, the most popular manifestation of Buddha in Korea, and Gwaneum, the equally popular bodhisattva of compassion, are the most frequent; for anyone with over 50 million won to spend, a gold leaf-covered 1.5-meter statue of Gwaneum with 18 arms is for sale. Master Lee also makes portable wooden triptychs that can be used by both monks and laity. Visitors need not be believing Buddhists to be impressed by what is found at Yeojin Buddhist Art Museum; all one needs is a receptive mind and a willingness to step out of the ordinary for an hour. Yeojin provides everyone with a special retreat and immersion in meditative labor, which shows that religious representational art can still be a going concern, even in the age of the smart phone.

losophy of tapping into his deepest self while working comes into play. Traditionally, all Buddhist art conveys the philosophical message of Buddhism, and helps viewers on their paths to enlightenment. For the Buddhist artist, creating works of Buddhist art is likewise a philosophical and spiritual exercise, so Master Lee puts much intense personal effort into each piece he produces. Master Lee also taps deeply into Korean tradition to create his sculptures, but anyone visiting his museum can see that he is up-todate as well. He follows the classic sketching, clay modeling, trimming, chiseling, carving and gilding process, yet his works have a contemporary look to them that sets them apart from mere copies of museum pieces, although he does those on demand for a variety of clients. This makes stepping into his workshop behind the sales room such a surprise: what one sees is basically what would have been in a Buddhist sculptor’s workshop in the Joseon Dynasty, but much is also technologically modern. The most surprising presence is the squares of 24-carat gold paper that are expertly applied to the surfaces of the wooden statues by a craftswoman; they raise the value of Master Lee’s statues into

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

S t ay c a t i o n

Visitors need not be believing Buddhists to be impressed by what is found at Yeojin Buddhist Art Museum; all one needs is a receptive mind and willingness to step out of the ordinary for an hour.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

S t ay c a t i o n

t is 28 degrees, the balmy air is blowing and the sun is shining brightly - if not harshly - at 12 noon. As the temperature rises and as the dreary, cold winter season slowly makes its exit, there’s no denying that summer is here, and it’s receiving a warm welcome from Korea. For most people, summer exudes an air of new possibilities: of picnics in the park, of irresistible dips in the water, and of long drives with the window down and the itinerary tossed away. Just a couple of hours from Jeonju by car, we had taken the expressway to Buan County, a destination in North Jeolla Province. As we go farther, nature envelops us while we pass by an off-the-beaten stretch of mountains and trees that beckon us, the stressed urbanites. It is for this reason that Buan is considered a “Healing Mecca”; a tranquil place where one can get far away Along the side of from the city’s noise, commune the park, there with nature, and ultimately were happy leave worries behind. And while campers who the term “healing” has a somebrought out tents what overused marketing trend and small chairs, in Korea, this aphorism perfectly and picnic-goers encapsulates Buan. Completely who brought free from the pressures of toursnacks and drinks. ism, it is simply a place to refresh the mind, body, and spirit.

A town preserved in time

the sun is calling Buan County’s Magical Domestic Delights

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Story by Dianne Pineda Photos by Seongjin Kim and Worldwide Dreambuilders Korea

Buan is a reclaimed county that borders the Yellow Sea on its west side. To the east is Jeongeup City and to the north Gimjae City, sits the mouth of the Dongjingang River as the border. One of its main attractions is Byeonsanbando National Park, the only national park in the country that has both a sea-shore and a mountainside. You can enjoy the best of both worlds: the scenic views of the mountain and the awe-inspiring vastness of the sea. We get the impression that the place has stood the test of time. On the way into town, we had seen traditional houses here and there, patches of land where people cultivate their own produce, and a wide, open space devoid of skyscrapers and steel concrete common to the urban jungle. Even though this sleepy town is home to time-preserved traditions, it is at the forefront of modernity, utilizing technology to maintain the reclaimed land and combining traditional farming with modern systems to produce chemical-free and environment-friendly food. It’s the classic case of old meets new, a harmonious union that has given birth to this extraordinary town.

Up the Buan Hill As if heeding the call of the sun, people flock to see the large Buan Dam (height: 50 m), which provides the local water supply to the

S t ay c a t i o n Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

At the foot of the hill is a fountain lawn plaza and a water park where kids can play and adults can roll up their jeans and dip their feet in the cool water. Along the side of the park, there are happy campers who have brought out tents and small chairs, and picnic-goers who have brought snacks and drinks. It was there where we meet members of the Worldwide Dreambuilders Korea, a very friendly communiBuan, ty and family of Amway business completely free owners who had gone together from the pressures on a short trip for the weekend. of tourism, is simply The group had brought their kids a place to refresh along as it was the ideal place for the mind, body, other, and everyone is very welfamilies – there is a children’s and spirit. coming. It was as if nature adds playground, a picnic ground for an amiable vibe where positivismall groups, and best of all, ty is shared and nurtured. entrance is absolutely free. The kids enjoy So whether you’re seeking the sun and the splashing water at the adults, while the adults crowds, or looking to escape them, Buan is the go back to their childhood days as they experfect place where you can bask in the glory change stories and eat ice cream while seated of summer. It’s a destination where you can by the water. It’s very common to see commuexperience the sea, the mountains, and all the nities, groups of co-workers and families doing wonderful elements that nature and friendly an MT or engaging in various fun activities locals have to offer. here at the park. It’s a way for them to get out of their usual work settings and get to know each Website www.buan.go.kr

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A place for families

farms, lands, and households in the county. To get to the dam, we have to pass by a trail going up to the mountain where we can get a spectacular view. The climb is relatively easy as we take the stone steps that lead the way. We are surrounded by long, straight pine trees on the way to the top, and upon reaching our destination, a long bridge greets us with the backdrop of an impressively beautiful water dam that looked like it comes straight to life from a painting. As we walk further, there is another flight of stairs that leads up to a viewing deck and a statue that pays tribute to the residents of the area.

S t ay c a t i o n Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

lazy summer vacation

Kick start your summer vacation with a lazy day at The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul

crystal The luxurious lobby area is full of light andfrien dly chandeliers coupled with greetings and k-in. chec smiles as we approach the desk for

The Summer Packages The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul presents three summer packages for all your staycation needs. Choose from a cooling cosmetics treat, an in-room brunch or evening barbeque to suit all your relaxing needs. Find out more about the packages below...

When June 1, 2016 until August 31, 2016 Price KRW 220,000 – KRW 290,000 (per package, excluding tax and service charge) ADD 120 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, Korea tel 02-3451-8114 Website www.ritzcarltonseoul.com

Happy Summer Package The Happy Summer Package also gives a night in a Superior Deluxe room with a very inviting dinner option. Arrive at the room and enjoy a relaxing afternoon before getting dressed up and ready for dinner… just downstairs. Head to the first floor at The Garden between 6pm-9.30pm for an unlimited barbeque at this fine-dining restaurant. Summer dishes include grilled lamb, steak and King prawn dishes, accompanied by a course menu of potatoes, cod, salad and other vegetables. Enjoy a table outside in the soft summer breeze or enjoy the soft lighting of the tables indoors. Enjoy a blissful summer out in the Garden and then head upstairs for a tranquil night’s sleep. price KRW 290,000.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Lazy Summer Package The Lazy Summer Package includes a night in a Superior Deluxe room with a magnificent in-room brunch. Enjoy a trolley full of pastries, salad, hot breakfast plate and pancakes straight to your door. Pick and choose what time you want brunch and then sit back and enjoy the afternoon with a TV program, nap or bath. It’s the perfect package to stay indoors and be lazy with all the treats. price KRW 240,000.

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

constantly wishing us a good brunch. And we do. It’s amazing. From the freshly squeezed orange and grapefruit juice, a healthy serving of both tea and coffee are also on the table. The hot dishes serve up an omelet or scrambled eggs (of your choice) and ham, bacon, asparagus, mushroom and potato which is seasoned beautifully. The banana pancakes are lightly dusted with icing sugar with a side of maple syrup which fully complements the palate cleansing fruit plate of watermelon, pineapple and orange. If there’s still room, a mixed pastry plate and salad are also there to fill those voids. The brunch table can be ordered at any time and is delivered straight to your door. There is no rush and once you are ready, simply call down to reception to have the trolley removed. Although the smells in your room may cause concern, the fully air-conditioned control unit on the wall will work well to cast away those odors. Barely being able to move, it’s time for a bath to soak away those stresses. The fully functional bathtub comes with a rain shower and fills in minutes. Once soaked, the bed is in a perfect position to catch up on some TV, with a range of satellite channels available for all viewing needs, or simply get comfortable with a book or kindle in tow. The Lazy Summer package is just that with everything in just one room. Enjoy a gorgeous brunch without leaving the room, then take a soak in the tub before having a nap or two in the afternoon. Undoubtedly, staying in is the new going out. So, whatever your relaxation needs, the Ritz-Carlton, Seoul has something in store for you. The Lazy Summer Package is available any day of the week at KRW 240,000 for a Superior Deluxe Room and in-room Brunch.

he gold lion emblem which is synonymous with the Ritz-Carlton brand shines brightly from under the rain clouds as we approach the hotel from Sinnonhyeon Station, exit 4. I have always been intrigued in what lies inside this fantastic fifteen floor building and after a mere seven and a half years in Seoul, it was finally time to find out. The Ritz-Carlton Seoul is located a stone’s throw away from Gangnam and offers a tranquil break away from the city without leaving it. The luxurious lobby area is full of light and crystal chandeliers coupled with greetings and friendly smiles as we approach the desk for check-in. A quick and painless form and a couple of key cards later, we find ourselves heading toward the elevators. Safety first, the card is already needed to request our floor as I excitedly press number ‘8’. The floor itself lines 20 rooms or so and as we find ours, I can’t wait to see what lies behind the door. As the door opens, I see a hallway which has a separate dressing area and a huge wardrobe which overwhelms our one-night stay needs. A bathroom with old fashioned taps and a welcoming bathtub makes for an inviting bathroom and then there’s the main room. The Superior Deluxe offers a modest and very comfortable king size bed with pillow trimmings for any sleeping need. A large flat-screen TV is at the foot of the bed with a mini-bar and in-room safe to boot. To the side of the bed, a comfortable one-seater and an accompanying ottoman rest neatly against the wall, next to the wonderful floor to ceiling window. The view, looking across Seoul, is amazing with the Namsan Tower in check and a host of other rooftops that can add to hours of people watching entertainment. At 1pm, comes an expected knock at the door. In comes a room service Maitre D, rolling in an impressive looking in-room brunch trolley. We watch in amazement as he uncovers hidden compartments of food and serves up a mélange of both hot and cold dishes. In a matter of moments, he is heading towards the door,

Cool Summer Package The Cool Summer Package includes a night in a Superior Deluxe room with a cosmetic addition. Two summer products from cosmetic brand Arztin provides each guest with Plege Gel and Sun Suit Block. The gel helps to replenish skin affected by some of the summer’s harsh ultra-violet rays with its moisturizing treatments while the sun block offers effective skin protection before heading out. Avoid the summer heat and get some treats to take away with you to beat the summer sun this season. price KRW 220,000.

S t ay c a t i o n

To the side of the bed, a comfortable one-seater and an accompanying ottoman rest neatly against the wall, next to the wonderful floor to ceiling window.

L'empreinte Looks to Leave an Impression Lamb, desserts, and more at this charming French bistro

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Story by Jordan Redmond Photos by Steve Smith

rench food is having a bit of a moment in Hongdae. With L'impasse cementing its muscular and meaty reputation and Yec'hed Mat dishing out Breton-inspired crepes, quality everyday French has never been as accessible. Opened just two months ago, L'empreinte is looking to make its mark with a lamb-centric menu in addition to French classics and decadent desserts. The restaurant is situated just off the new greenspace out of Hongdae exit 3 and is solidly a part of what folks are beginning to know to refer to as Yeonnam-dong, an area exploding with fantastic food and drink thanks to Itaewon's saturation and absurd rents. Being on the second floor and sporting an intimate, tree-level veranda, it's well-above the ever-increasing bustle of its locale. Unassuming French antiques fill the interior including a 150 year old farmhouse table and marble fireplace. A photo of owner/chef Gregory Defraize's grandfather is slyly included in the menu as well as nifty maps of French wine and liquor

regions created by fellow owner, Kevin Scheid. A large dessert case beckons upon entrance. Infused liquors sit temptingly above a long bar which leads to an open kitchen in the back. Altogether, this is a place where one can imagine having a number of dining experiences from just desserts to a long and lavish food and drink sesh. L'empreinte's lamb menu comes from a desire to stand out and is also a slight nod to the area's history as a hot spot for Taiwanese and Chinese restaurants. The menu's star is a healthy lamb shank braised for three hours in a port wine reduction. It sits up in its serving pan begging you to just grab the bone and go at it caveman-style. To do that, however, would be betraying the delicacy of this dish provided by the striking pink peppercorns. It's at once primal and effete. Having been so slowly cooked, the meat falls off the bone and you will want to have all of the tender baby potatoes, roasted cherry tomatoes, and haricort verts which are soaking in the shank's juices. There is also a lamb chop with laven-

der jam and lamb burger with emmental cheese and beet root which seem like required eating upon return visits. You might want to start your meal with the warm goat cheese salad. A healthy dollop of fresh goat cheese sits atop pliant puff pastry kissed with honey. The accompanying salad, upon close inspection, includes endives and red radish. Innocuous enough as natural inclusions in French cuisine, you then realize these things aren't easy to find in Korea and are thankful for Defraize's sourcing black magic. The salad itself will disappear quickly from your plate and is the definition of an appetizer for two as it's just enough to tease your hunger and leave you wanting more. Despite the presence of such temptations atop the menu, you will certainly want to leave room for dessert. On this reviewer's visit, there was a lavender creme brulee although L'empreinte has been known to also do a version made with Chartreuse, the Carthusian monk

Paradise City A refreshing, spiced summer sipper Photo and cocktail by Bobby Kim

ADD Mapo-gu, Yeonnam-dong 260-15 tel 02-3144-2501 time Tues-Sun 11am-11pm

1.25 oz. London Dry Gin 0.25 oz. Averna 5 oz. Lemon Juice 25 oz. Mint Syrup Top with Strawberry Cardamom Soda Mint Sprig (for garnish) Serve in a highball glass

Take me down to the paradise city, where the drinks have bubbles and the garnishes are pretty. Jam out to a nice and refreshing gin-based cocktail topped with strawberry cardamom bubbles, perfect for the hot weather. Averna is a kind of Amaro, a milder Italian bitter herbal liqueur. The bitter plays well with the spice from the cardamom and the fruitiness from the strawberry. Enjoy this cocktail while basking in the sun.

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Value ●●●●○ Ambiance ●●●●◐ Service ●●●●◐ Overall ●●●●◐

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liquor made from brandy and herbs. The lavender version had an excellent sticky caramel crust which gave way to a not-toorich lavender-colored custard underneath. A very un-French but must try dessert is the Amarula Cheesecake made with the Kahlua-like South African cream liqueur, Amarula. Creamy rather than fluffy yet still light on its feet, it is served with a striking and much needed berry coulis that provides some nice acidity. If neither lamb nor desserts are your thing, L'empreinte also serves up French bistro classics like duck al'orange, steak frites, and beef bourguignon. The food here is affordable and approachable. After all, if an average French meal was haute cuisine, how would the people in France manage to eat every day? By adhering to French traditions while adding its own twists, L'empreinte is staking its place in Yeonnam-dong and Hongdae's ever more sophisticated Food ●●●●◐ food landscape.

FOOD & DRINK

il kta Coc he Of T h t Mon

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Altogether, this is a place where one can imagine having a number of dining experiences from just desserts to a long and lavish food and drink sesh.

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

www.groovekorea.com July 2016 54

Shortening Your Wait for American Chinese Food General Tso’s and more now available in HBC Story by Jason Newland photos by Hannah Green

et’s go back in time before Sunday brunch was the thing to do after a Saturday night bender. A time when Sunday began with a growling, demanding stomach and mimosas and egg benedicts weren’t the most immediate option. A time when the best thing we could possibly do to fix our self-imposed conundrum was a heap of Chinese food on the cheap: egg fried rice, General Tso’s with some broccoli, Kung Pao chicken (you know, the one with peanuts), cheesy fried wontons, and brothy soup. This time was maybe university or it was simply the time spent in an American hometown living the life of a townie in need of copious and delicious semi-foreign cuisine. Are you sad now because such delights don’t exist in Korea? Well, don't panic! The time between that style of Chinese food reaching your mouth has grown increasingly shorter due to the new American-Chinese Bistro, Hours, located in Haebangchon (HBC). Hours is serving the closest to what this writer thinks is the best authentic American-style Chinese food in Seoul and what

heavy hitter, General Tso’s chicken, the porbest represents what Americans miss about Chinese back home. Hours’ menu consists of tion was large enough for two, and the chickcrab rangoons (cheesy wontons), General Tso’s en’s batter’s crispness was in tact even with chicken, Kung Pao chicken, orange chicken, the spicy red Hunan-inspired sauce covering beef with broccoli, mongolian beef, pepper steak, it. Finally, there was shrimp lo mein, rice, and sweet and sour pork, walnut shrimp in mayo crab meat soup as accompaniments. With a sauce, and Hours is adding more to the menu. spread this varied, those longing for AmeriThe food at Hours is the creation of Hwacan Chinese should be able to satisfy most of their unfulfilled desires. jung Son, who also goes by Chloe. She fell in Hours is open for business six days a love with American Chinese food as a student week and being located in Itaewon, an easy and then resident in Madison, Wisconsin, oasis for many to visit. The food is pitch perand her chef, Woojin Choi, lived and honed his American Chinese cooking skills on the fect if you’re in the market for American-style streets of New York. The first dish the writer Chinese. The main dishes are between KRW had at Hours was the crab rangoons which 15,000-20,000 and are easily shared between are basically cheesy fried wontons so good two people. There is inside and outside seatthat this reviewer would go back weekly just ing, and the interior of the restaurant has a for them. The next dish was walnut shrimp modern New York vibe. So go satisfy your with mayo sauce, the shrimp were battered General Tso’s chicken and fried rice cravings and fried and then smothered in shrimp sauce at Hours because they’re serving some of the and topped with candied walnuts. best American Chinese food in Food ●●●●◐ Next came the beef and broccoli Seoul. Value ●●●●○ in a hoisin-inspired gravy that Add 41 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Ambiance ●●●●○ screamed authentic American Hours Tuesday-Sunday 12-3, 5-midnight Service ●●●●○ TEL 070-8827-0424 Chinese. And you can’t forget the Overall ●●●●○

Live stages and parties every month.

Wide selection of international beers and food.

Your neighborhood pub in Itaewon since 1999

Gecko's Terrace

2nd Fl., 127 Bogwang-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (Itaewon subway station. Exit #4) Weekdays 12pm-2am / Weekends 12pm-3am 02-749-9425

Seoul Itaewon

Busan Haeundae Beach

Jeju Jungmun

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

www.groovekorea.com July 2016 56

it's a cold, cold naengmyeon world that we're living in Three cold noodle institutions to educate your tongue Story by Charlotte Hammond and Jordan Redmond Photos by Sean Choi

s Korean food fully enters into the American (and international consciousness), does naengmyeon get its due worldwide? Probably not. People seem to want to focus on the meaty and the funky. But, if according to superstar Korean-American chef, David Chang, the future of noodles is light, light, light, then South Korea's favorite import from the North should be primed for massive amounts of Instagram foodie fetishizing. Naengmyeon is the stuff of passion, after all. Bowls of these icy cold noodles have been known to cause hot-blooded, relationship-shattering spats. You want bibim too? I want bibim! But I want mul too! Get mul so we can share! Meet the two jilted lovers of the Korean cold noodle world: mul naengmyeon (buckwheat noodles in a light beef broth, originating from Pyongyang) and bibim naengmyeon (springier buckwheat noodles in a sweet and spicy red pepper sauce, originating from Hamheung). If you're not in the know after reading this, you never will be. No matter how you cut it (once, twice, not at all), these venerated naengmyeon spots are a must visit this summer.

Woo Lae Oak Woo Lae Oak debunked any preconceived notions of what naengmyeon broth should taste like for a writer who was formerly so strongly team #Hamheung regarding the great naengmyeon divide. Subtle flavors in their Pyeongyang-style? Yes, yet with so many clean, fresh

notes and surprises that no bite was dull. Not only that, but as a usual mul fan, the bibim wowed as the star of the day boasting a rich, tangy sauce. (Note to naengmyeon eaters: in the sauce department, a scarlet hue will nearly always beat a red-orange color in a bowl of bibim.) Woo Lae Ok also offers cold kimchi noodles in addition to the classic bibim and mul naengmyeon options. In addition, Woo Lae Oak doubles as famous as a higher-end meat restaurant, so the two levels can fill up at normal dining hours. Reservations are recommended.

Heung Nam Jib This place is ancient by Korean restaurant standards, slinging bowls of frosty noodles since the early 1950s. The stooped and slurping crowd too reflects Heung Nam Jibâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s age. Sit near the dumbwaiter to watch silver bowls of Hamheung-style naengmyeon lower from the upstairs kitchen in fleets. Heung Nam Jib, which works in the Hamheung arena of naengmyeon, is most notable for its lovely noodles, an uncanny marine-gray color with an elastic, bouncy texture. Their hoe naengmyeon is a crowd favorite: sweet, fishy and just a tad spicy. The mul naengmyeon lives up to the Hamheung style ideal with a bold, meaty broth. Those struggling to discern Pyongyang from Hamhung will taste a clear difference in the broth at a dedicated noodle house like this one. A bowl of hoe naengmyeon runs KRW 8,000.

Pyongyang Myeonok Like reductiveness and subtlety? This is your place. The mul naengmyeon here is so understated and debatably pretentious, it is basically the black turtleneck of cold noodles. As the name on the sign indicates, the noodles here are dedicated purely to the Pyongyang ideal. Slightly chewy buckwheat noodles sit in an uber-delicate beef-bone broth, so delicate in fact that you wonder if you are missing something. Aside from the noodles and broth, the only accoutrements are a couple slices of beef brisket, a hard-boiled egg, vinegared radish, and a smattering of green onion. A few tables over, a man was shamelessly squirting ample amounts of spicy mustard and vinegar into his bowl looking for something that would excite his tongue. Regardless, trying these noodles is informative. How light can you go? Perhaps, like the best soba shops, well-cultured tastebuds are required here.

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do you know

franktown?

A glimpse into Korea's more bespoke future

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Story by Jason Newland Photos by Peter Cucetti

ave you heard of Franktown? You’ve likely heard of Kyungnidan. Here’s the thing: sometimes delightful, undiscovered places aren’t far off the beaten track. Say, “Itaewon,” and most everyone in Seoul will imagine the foreigner district. Mention Kyungnidan, and images of watering holes serving craft beers, overpriced restaurants, hip dives and confusingly long lines for churros come to mind. Now, what about Franktown? Franktown is a compound above the mini-neighborhood that exists on Jang Jin Woo Road-- a sequestered street just off the constantly buzzing Kyungnidan street. It’s home to a pair of transcendent Korean establishments operated by young Koreans with a focus on quality that’s unseen in most parts of the city. These two places exist inside the compound known as Franktown, a modern looking building overlooking Jang Jin Woo Road; it has spaces for young Koreans to run small businesses. Jangkkoma and Serengetea have found a home in Franktown and are setting the bar for the freshest homestyle Korean food followed by decadent cake, exclusive tea and damn fine coffee.

Let’s start with Jangkkoma. It was founded by Sung-ah Lee and Su-bin Choi, two young Koreans who studied food while at university. They met a few years ago and realized that very few places were selling high quality locally sourced Korean food in Seoul at affordable prices. They set out to change this by opening Jangkkoma. They figured out a theme for the restaurant: a focus on jang, the Korean pastes: doenjang, gochujang, and kanjang. The restaurant’s name is a play on that theme. In fact, jangkkoma were a set of Korean guards long ago in the Joseon Dynasty. Their duty was to protect jang from thieves, because during that time jang’s value was similar to precious metals due to the time, effort, and spices needed to make them. There is a popular myth in expat communities that Korean food will disappear when all the ajummas are gone. Who’ll make the

FOOD & DRINK

Uncovering the City's Most Irresistible Destination Dishes

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

of Bite h t e th mon

Photo and cocktail by Andy Hume

As summer gets ever more sweltering, the natural temptation is to seek refuge in an air-conditioned café. Up in Seokchon, the village-like district to the north and west of Gyeongbokgung Palace, sits Noshi’s Table (놋그릇 가지런히). This delightful place is as much shop as café, with beautiful traditional brass dishes and bowls on the shelves for you to peruse while you wait for your choice of drinks and sweets. Their standout dessert is a dish of semi-frozen persimmon with a generous spoonful of sweetened red bean in the center – a perfect antidote for hot, humid afternoons – but you can also get a cooling watermelon sherbet or even a more traditional patbingsu, served in brass bowls like Impressionist still life paintings. Noshi’s Table (놋그릇 가지런히) time Open 10am - 7pm Monday - Saturday. ADD Jahamun-ro 13-gil 3, Jongno-gu, Seoul tel 02-736-6262 website noshi.co.kr

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

ADD Sowal-ro 40 gil (소월로40길) tel Jangkkoma 070-4153-6517 / Serengetea 010-5028-0274

Persimmon & Red Bean Dessert

kimchi when all those bustling ladies are dead? The conversations are made in joking tones, but at times it seems to be a legitimate worry, especially when seemingly every restaurant opened by young Koreans is a take on western food they enjoyed while traveling, studying or working abroad. Luckily, there are places like Jangkkoma popping up in the city. Sung-ah Lee and Subin Choi are something of modern day jangkkomas in their pursuit of making sure quality Korean food keeps going. Jangkkoma’s popularity draws in customers from neighboring embassies along with neighborhood locals, and the occasional famous person drops by. Their advertising is done mostly through word of mouth and social media. However, their reputation keeps growing and it’s probably because of the quality of the food they’re serving. Their most popular dishes are hanwoo yukhwae bibimbap (한우 육회 비빔밥) aka Korean raw beef bibimbap, myeongran beoteoraiseu (명란 버터라이스) which is rice topped with various kinds of fish eggs, and jangttokttogi deopbap (장똑똑이 덮밥) a tender pork in a kanjang or soy marinade-based over white rice with a fried egg and steamed cabbage. Each are made with precision and full of umami. What makes the food special at Jangkkoma is the time put into it. Each dish is handcrafted with fresh ingredients. The raw beef bibimbap is savory with just the right amount of spice, the rice topped with Mentaiko fish eggs is seasoned in such a way to make every bite a tasty morsel. The tender pork rice bowl draws its flavors from Korea, but the texture of the pork rivals that of the best pulled pork found along the Mason-Dixon line. Every dish includes miso soup and banchan that is newly made every morning. Downstairs, Jangkkoma has a small bar reminiscent of Japanese ramen shops and a massive table upstairs that is shared amongst their customers just like Korean meals in the past were to be shared. Jangkkoma is a special place to eat Korean food and with their reasonable prices, it’s a place you can and should easily visit every week. If you're not stuffed, head to Serengetea for dessert. It’s the cafe adjacent to Jangkkoma welcoming patrons with a pink neon sign surrounded by tropical plants. The neon sign is a map to their restaurant, and the cafe’s name is a play on words, a mix of serenity, get, and tea, as in have a peaceful cup of tea here at Serengetea. Don’t worry coffee drinkers, they also serve the hard stuff. Serengetea belongs to Dongwon Ryu, a former art student with interests in branding, sculpture, metalworking, and ceramics. Her work is reflected in all of the cups and plates as well as the sculptures on the wall, lamps, neon lights--all by Dongwon. She has an eye for design so the look and feel of her cafe is as important to her as the quality of her coffee, teas and cakes, and trust the writer, they’re good. Serengetea’s menu is made up of standard cafe fare with anything but standard creativity and presentation. The coffee is expertly made and looks like art when it comes to your table especially when in mocha form. The tea is freshly imported and properly steeped. The various fruit ades are a delight during these hot summer months, Serengetea’s are not too sweet. The green grape ade is as refreshing and crisp as any drink can be. And the cakes come in four rotating flavors: red velvet, carrot, lemon meringue, and apple. The cake is moist and succulent and the icing is a sight to behold. The cream cheese icing literally swirls with fabulously blended colors. In case you're wondering, Serengetea is willing to sell cakes to order for birthdays and other special occasions. Here’s the catch: it’s hard to get to Franktown, there isn’t a direct bus and it’s not near a subway stop. Trust your maps application to get you there just before you're too hungry to think.

Pho Chi Minh P seoul's newest pho destination Adventurous pho in the heart of the city

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Story by Andy Hume photos by Robert Evans

ho is having a bit of a ‘moment’ in Seoul right now. For so long the preserve of mediocre chain restaurants where broths were made from a premade mix and requests for cilantro met by confused looks, we now have – if not exactly an embarrassment of riches – at least some reasonable options for the national dish of Vietnam. The snappily titled Pho Chi Minh in Gwanghwamun comes to us courtesy of one of the brains behind the crazy popular Southside Parlor bar in Gyeongnidan, Robbie Nguyen, and Dan Cho, a partner in the crazy popular Paulie's Brick Oven Pizzeria in Gwanghwamun. Located in the same D-Tower complex that hosts Paulie's, Bill’s, Manimal Provisions and more, the decor and ambience is what you would expect of a nice mid-range restaurant in the area, but the word is well and truly out and getting a table during the lunch rush is as tricky as trying to cross against the lights in the middle of Hanoi. The menu is split into two parts; the Vietnamese section comprises variations on beef pho with an assortment of appetisers and side dishes such as spring rolls, while the Chinese side of the menu focuses on rice and noodle dishes. There are four varieties of soup on the menu. Phở tái is served with thin slivers of rare beef and a generous helping of rice noodles. The broth is light and clean-tasting, with no added MSG. Some visitors, particularly those raised on the deeper, richer pho found in the States or the transcendent versions found in the better Hanoi pho restaurants, may find it too bland. Adding some Sriracha and hoi sin sauce helps to amp up the flavor, as does a generous handful of the fresh cilantro, Thai basil and mint, as well as lime, provided with each order. (Pho snobs

Recipe and photos by Lauren Mays

1 lb okra 3 Cups lukewarm water 1 Tbsp salt 1/2 onion, diced 4 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 cup gochugaru

1 Tbsp ginger, minced 4 Tbsp fish sauce 1 Tbsp rice flour 2 Tbsp sugar 1 Cup water

Rinse the okra, trim the ends & cut in 1/4 inch pieces. Rinse the okra again, then toss in a bowl with salt. Submerge in 3 cups luke warm water. Set aside & let soak at room temperature for 1-2 hours. In the meantime, heat the rice flour & 1 cup of water in a saucepan over medium heat until thick. Pour the flour mixture into a blender or food processor. Add the ginger, gochugaru, fish sauce, sugar, garlic & onion & puree. Once the okra has soaked, drain it & keep the soaking liquid. Rinse the okra twice more. In a large bowl, add the pureed kimchi paste over each piece of okra. Make sure each piece is covered. Pour the okra into jar or storage container. Pour the pickling liquid over the okra leaving about 1 inch at the top. Seal & store in a dark space away from sunlight for 2-3 days until fermented. Once opened, keep refrigerated.

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

A fresh fusion recipe for summer

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

ADD 5th floor, D-Tower, 17 Jong-ro 3-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul tel 02-2251-8520 time Open 11am - 10pm, seven days a week

Okra Kimchi

may balk at putting the sauces directly into the soup, but plenty of Vietnamese people, particularly in the south, do the same.) Phở sate' is a spicier take on the same dish, pimped out with a generous blob of oily chilli paste W(which is not unlike a sambal) and some Vietnamese-style meatballs that are more like sliced sausage in consistency. All soups are priced around the 10,000 won mark, with larger sizes on offer for a couple of thousand more. Apart from the pho, you can get chả giò, addictive little deep-fried spring rolls stuffed with pork and served with pickled and some lettuce wraps, or gỏi cuốn (sometimes know as fresh spring rolls), crunchy little parcels of shrimp, fresh vegetables and vermicelli noodles rolled up in rice paper wrappers with a spicy dipping sauce. On the Chinese side, the deep-fried shrimp purses were also very addictive, with a strong prawn flavour coming through, even if you don’t care for the sweet mayo dip served on the side. There are also American-inflected rice and noodle dishes like beef ho fun and chicken chow mein for those who crave something perhaps more suitable for dinner time. No matter if it's lunch or dinner, you should not leave without trying their cà phê sữa đá - slow drip Vietnamese coffee poured over crushed ice and sweetened condensed milk to give you a wonderful, creamy, turbocharged take on the usual iced coffee. It may not quite fool you into thinking you are sitting on the streets of Ho Chi Minh City, but it’s about as close as you can get without hopping on a plane.

Kimchi Beer Pucker Up For The World’s First Kimchi-Soured Beer, The K Weisse

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Story by Rob Shelley photos by Peter Kim

raft beer, known for its wild novelty and experimentation, has produced the inevitable: a kimchi beer! It's called K Weisse and it takes a mildly sour style of German beer and gives it an undeniably Korean spin. All kinds of ingredients have been used in craft beer. In Korea alone, people have used Jeju Hallabong oranges, yuza fruit, and a Korean spun candy called yeot. A kind of running joke among beer folks here has been "How does one make a beer with kimchi?" Well, the Hand and Malt has the answer. It's not the answer you’d expect though. Yes, the Hand and Malt have used kimchi in making their new beer, called K Weiss. But it’s not made “with” kimchi so much as “from” kimchi, a distinction that's quite important. During kimchi’s fermentation process, a bacteria called lactobacillus creates sour-tasting lactic acid. Remarkably enough, this bacteria is one of the more popular ingredients used to make many sour beers.

More Info The K Weisse can be found at various craft beer locations including The Owl and Pussycat in Busan; The Ranch Pub in Daejeon; and Hopscotch and Amazing Brewing Company in Seoul.

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

the real pleasure comes when adding a little raspberry syrup. The Hand and Malt tested various brands and can suggest the best syrup for pubs to pick up. If you’re lucky enough to find a pub that serves K Weisse with raspberry syrup, try a few different strengths. I prefer a little bit of syrup, giving the glass a pale amber color. It’s slightly sweet, but not enough to take the edge of the tartness, giving it the taste of real fruit. If you choose to go heavy on the syrup, your glass will become ruby red and this delicious, light beer will taste like a sour candy beer cocktail. Either way, it’s my favorite beer this summer and another brilliant innovation from South Korea’s best beer brewery.

Head brewer Brandon Fenner had planned on brewing a Berliner Weisse for the summer season when someone got the bold idea of using kimchi as the source of bacteria. “Berliner Weisse is a German style of beer that is cloudy, very pale, slightly sour and very refreshing,” explains Fenner. “We decided to make this beer first because we enjoy drinking it, and also because we thought the Korean market would enjoy it as well.” Owner Bryan Do doesn’t believe in doing anything second rate, so he commissioned a local DNA lab to isolate strains of lactobacillus from kimchi. During kimchi’s “We wanted to put a local twist fermentation to this... to use local ingredients. process, a After brainstorming during bacteria called lunch, we thought that the lactolactobacillus bacillus in kimchi would make a creates sourgreat souring agent. [We think] it tasting lactic acid. Berliner Weisse is traditionally is a conversation starter… both Remarkably enough, served with raspberry syrup the science part of isolating this this bacteria is one for those who aren’t fans of the strain and it being [made from] of the more popular sourness. However, the raspberry syrup also makes the ingredients used kimchi.” to make many sour beer kimchi-colored and that But telling a customer base could make things even more beers. that you have a kimchi beer can confusing. just as likely turn them off as However, the Hand and Malt take pride spark their interest. How does one market in their new creation and expect word-ofa beer made using kimchi while educating mouth to do the marketing for them. For the customer on the fact that’s it’s not made now, the kimchi aspect is downplayed a little “with” kimchi, it’s made “from” kimchi? with the focus being on the fruity tartness Many local customers aren’t aware of what of the beer which makes it a very refreshing craft beer is, let alone what a traditional Gersummer ale. It’s enjoyable “naked,” with the man sour beer is. How do you explain that unadulterated sourness providing a very noit’s soured from kimchi, but it’s not spicy, vinticeable tart punch and light, crisp finish. But egar-like, or made with cabbage and radish?

American-Style Sushi Rolls Get your (salmon) roll on in Incheon

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Story and Photos by Mike Hanrahan

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

ongdo is running the risk of becoming the place delicious food goes to die. Le Lot talks about their struggles convincing Korean customers to even try their amazing food, and we’ve watched many other fantastic restaurants shutter their doors. Which is why I’m not surprised when I walk into the impugnable Cent Roll Park for the third time and, like the past two times, it’s mostly empty. Open for only a couple months now, Cent Roll Park is a surprising stand out and deserves a line down the block. The layout is sharp black and white that may have been copied from Crazy Roll (unintentionally, I’m sure). Lovely décor and tableware square out the space leaving it feeling light, fresh, and clean - if a little sterile. For food it’s highly recommended to go in a group and order a lot. You will think it’s

too much but it won't be; you’ll eat it all, I roll, and the Crazy roll. Although the restaupromise. On this occasion we were a group rant insists on having sauce on everything, of four and ordered 6 different rolls all bethey nail it. It’s on the side, on top, or in the roll when it should be, and they don’t miss a tween KRW 7,000-12,000. The salmon-avobeat. There’s never more or less than needed cado roll has melt-in your mouth raw salmon and the sauce always compliments, never on top and crab salad on the inside. It bursts overpowers. with flavour and somehow a roll the size of Cent Roll Park could have been a solid a child’s fist just melts away in your mouth. lunchtime take-away spot but the food is just The Angry Roll has fine-diced salmon in a better than it needs to be. It’s really a spot to mildly spicy sriracha-based sauce. The flago out of your way for. Hop on the subway vours mix beautifully as anyone who’s had and take a trip down, I promise it’s worth it. a spicy salmon roll knows, but the quality of ingredients and perfect preparation here Add Songdo World Mark Building 802, Songdo-dong, make the texture ideal and the flavours balYeonsu-gu, Incheon tel 032-851-3144 anced. The Harumaki is light, Directions Incheon Line 1, University Food ●●●●● crunchy, and delicious. The perof Incheon Station, Exit 4. Walk straight, Value ●●●●● fect roll to start or end the meal cross the light at end of Central Park, conAmbiance ●●●◐○ with. Some other stand out rolls tinue straight and the restaurant is on your Service ●●●●○ are the salmon carpaccio, Spider left hand side. Overall ●●●●◐

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

13 and 1/2 Hours at

Seoul Pub

www.groovekorea.com July 2016

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

An ode to one of Itaewon's classic watering holes Story by Stephen K. Hirst Photos by Blair Kitchener

t's become a tired cliché to observe that Itaewon has changed in recent years. You may as well point out “Hey, the Brooklyn waterfront looks a bit different lately.” The neighborhood has (marginally) cleaned up, grown up, and consequently, rents have shot up. And also like northwest Brooklyn, depending on when newcomers first arrived—be it 2, 5, 10, or 20 years ago, they tend to think, "It used to be cool when I first got here. You guys missed it." Or alternatively: "This is nothing, it used to be a real shithole when I was here." Whether you prefer the newer elements of Itaewon (candle-lit Italian restaurants, Guatemalan coffee and posh nightclubs slanging 15,000W bottles of Hite) or the "classic" version (dank, dimly-lit dive bars, vomit-caked men lying in gutters, military punch-ups and roving ladies of the night), it can all still be found here. Personally, I'm a bit on the fence—god knows I appreciate the decent coffee and authentic Lebanese food, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't miss the squalor and weirdness a bit. So I appreciate that Seoul Pub remains. A throwback to old-guard Itaewon, Seoul Pub is a living monument to a rapidly-vanishing drinking scene. While the crowd is mostly expats and tourists, there is a healthy sprinkling of locals as well. Like many great dives, the age range is broad; patrons may be anywhere from 20 to 70. A dingy but highly-visible yellow sign announces the pub's presence on the main drag, across from the legendary Hamilton Hotel, where it’s resided since opening in 1998.

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I get there at three o’clock and wait a bit in the stairwell for the staff to arrive and open. Actually, I wait an hour. But peeking through the glass door, I see the tavern’s familiar wooden interior—booths, floorboards, paneling, and L-bar. There are two small televisions from the 1980's that usually play baseball or soccer (no one is ever really watching), a pool table in the rear that sees a lot of action, and a windowed smoking room directly to the right of it. While plenty of football club banners hang from the ceiling, Liverpool FC claims a place of honor above the long bar itself. I stretch out in the little bench/alcove in the entryway for a nap. The bartender finally arrives, and I come in right behind her. It's a bright afternoon and sunlight is streaming through the 2nd story windows—one of the bar's best features. Running the length of the tavern and looking directly out onto Itaewon's main drag, it's the perfect spot for people-watching: Western backpackers both young and old, stylish young Koreans, Chinese tourists on shopping missions, Nigerians, Moroccans, women in hijabs, women in niqabs, and one unfortunate-but-energetic man in a bowling pin costume handing out fliers for a 24-hour alley. I settle in on a stool and order an OB draft. Typically I get bottles at Seoul Pub (the drafts sometimes smell faintly of eggs) but a tap beer is only 2500W, and right now cheap is good. I plan to be here for a while. The second customer of the day enters only minutes behind me: Murat, from Tunisia. A well-dressed young man with a shaved head, he lives in Seoul and is an importer/exporter of cosmetics. "In the Middle East, in recent years, men are becoming more interested in the grooming. With lotions, things like that. These are very

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busy times for us.” Murat sets up his afternoon office in the smoking room and begins making and taking phone calls. I hear at least four languages (Japanese, Arabic, English, French) while he issues orders, approves sales, and lights one cigarette after another. At one point he asks me how to spell ‘Tuesday.’ “Thank you,” he says, texting at a furious rate. “There are five languages up here,” he taps his head, “and sometimes things can get confused.” After a while I order a burger and fries. “It has pork, you know. They mix it with the beef, to save money,” Murat warns. I glance at the bartender. “Is that true?” She considers a moment. “Maybe.” I order one anyway. It’s pretty good, but a bit sweet—definitely more than half pork. After an hour or so it’s still just me and Murat when the owner enters. Mr. Jung is a rail-thin but muscular man in his late 40's wearing shiny, tight hiking clothes that look expensive. I hand him my business card and we hit it off when he sees I'm an English Professor in Daejeon—it's his hometown. Better yet, I work at his alma mater. We chat about his pub and his drinking philosophy. "I don't drink at home. And outside work, I don't drink. I don’t drink anywhere else—only here. You see outside I am very active, I like soccer, biking, and fishing." I order another OB draft, pacing myself for the night ahead. A crowd of regulars has begun to trickle in, including an Australian hagwon teacher named Aaron. We start to shoot pool. Murat is enthusiastic but not terribly good, and it's all he can do to strike the ball he's aiming at. Aaron has some skills; in fact, it’s clear he’s better than me. He toys with Murat a bit and then I'm up. Aaron thumps me soundly, and I leave

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"Have you noticed that both of Mr. Jung's drinking games revolve around customers quickly consuming vast amounts of alcohol?" Brian remarks while we watch a table of women fight back tequila shivers. "Actually, ALL of Mr. Jung's games are like that," says Jake, a military contractor from Ohio in his mid-fifties. We chat with Jake a bit, a patron of the pub for almost 20 years. "I used to be in the Air Force here." He eyes me and Brian. "You boys are military, right?" "Uhm, no. We're educators." He nods and starts talking about all the recent failed missile launches in North Korea. The bombardment of Yeonpyeong. The sinking of the Cheonan. "That's why I'm here right now. I'm here to help our friends."

A throwback to old-guard Itaewon, Seoul Pub is a living monument to a rapidlyvanishing drinking scene.

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