Groove Korea 2016 November by GROOVEKOREA

issue 121

November 2016

Substitute mothers 2016 in review e-sports tarot cards the kiwi chamber, bcck and the embassy of ireland

pc banging and the gaming industry

your future in the palms of their hands

www.groovekorea.com

Editorial Vol. 121 November 2016

Editorial november 2016

As the end of the year approaches, it’s time to look back and consider what there is for us to be thankful for. With the forthcoming Thanksgiving holiday, an American election and the recent controversies of the Korean Government all in the mix this November, it’s time to reflect on some issues which remain firmly closer to home – and even possibly your home on the peninsula. Our cover story this month looks at the story of Filipino nannies in South Korea. Often seen as a golden opportunity, a one-in-a-lifetime chance or a vibrant new start for young Filipinos, the grass may not always be greener once they arrive at Incheon Airport. Barbara Bierbrauer speaks honestly in her findings of some of the nannies that she spoke to in their harrowing tales and experienc-

O n

ct ohv ee r

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

november 2016

This month, Barbara Bierbrauer digs deep into the untold lives of Filipino Nannies and brings their stories of working in South Korea to our issue. Some are treated well, and some are not as our insight story looks into the legalities, new families and earnings of these workers. Cover Photo by Steve Smith

es in what awaited them in South Korea. In another look at Korea’s dark side, Jack Baer goes deep into the unknown as his senior brings him to an alternative Noraebang. Ali Saleh also visits the bright – and dark side – of his future as his trusts the readings of a few tarot experts in Hongdae. Looking back at their past endeavors, Liam Ring and Naheen Madarbakus speak to the Kiwi Chamber, The Embassy of Ireland and the Irish Association in Korea about their achievements this year while the BCCK look forward to their forthcoming traditional Christmas lunch on December 2. Liam Ring and Simon McEnteggart also review some of the best from the big screen at this year’s BIFF. Emma Kalka finds out what the Part-Time Cooks

have been up to and Rob Shelley delves into the world of E-Sports to see what all the fuss is about. With Thanksgiving high up on the menu this month, the Food team bring some gourmet alternatives too. Yoo Jin Oh discovers the humble SF Bagel while Casey Mann tastes the Huggers vegetarian burger. In other food, Giovanni Tamburrini speaks to Jordan Redmond about Brera while Andy Hume heads to Cr8 Cookies for dessert. It’s certainly a month of controversy, alternatives and a trip into the unknown this issue. However you decide to spend your month though, remember to give thanks and be grateful for all that’s around you.

What's in this issue Vol. 121 November 2016

Expat hip-hop duo building international underground hip-hop scene one artist at time

EDITORIAL

Key People Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

What's on Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

20-23

National News national news with Korea JoongAng Daily

sponsors 16

lee Moon Won Clinic This month's hairy installment

community 24

The alternative world of Noraebang The alternative noraebang isn't just about music

Seoul's Tarot Readers Ali Saleh gets a card reading to look into his future

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Happy Hagwon Steve Lemlek starts our monthly education column of advice

The Kiwi Chamber Looking back at a successful 2016 with the Kiwi Chamber

The BCCK Christmas Lunch Returns for the Festive Season BCCK bring some Christmas cheer to Seoul

A Frenetic 2016 for the Embassy of Ireland A year in review with the Irish Embassy

Half a World away: 145 years of the Irish in Korea Remembering, half the world away

Entertainment 36

Three By… Three by... delves into relationships on the big screen

BIFF 2016 Reviews A look at the some of the hottest releases at this year's BIFF p44

Legendary band shares what's kept them together for 31 years

Reviving a community through hip-hop Expat hip-hop duo building international underground hip-hop scene one artist at time

A moment with Boohwal Legendary band shares what's kept them together for 31 years

Beginner’s Guide to E-Sports in Seoul Rob Shelley finds out what the fuss is all about with E-Sports

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What's in this issue Vol. 121 November 2016

Home help or home hindrance? Life for the outsider in Korea

insight 48

Substitute mothers Home help or home hindrance? Life for the outsider in Korea

Food & Drink 52

Philly Feelings Served at American MOOD A fountain of cheesesteaks at this new Gangnam-area joint

Huggers Burger Takes Root in Hannam-dong Great veggie burgers for the vegetarians or omnivores alike.

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

The Noodles of Your Life A singular, unforgettable ramen experience

Giovanni Tamburrini of Brera Picking the brain of...Brera's Giovanni Tamburrini

Gourmet San Francisco Bagels Add Flavor to Seoul Serious bagelology and great desserts

Restaurant Buzz Tacos, poutine, and tortas

CR8 Cookies Follow the trail of crumbs to this new cookie shop.

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Travel 60

Korean cuisine a hit in the Land of Smiles Korean Chef, Doohyeok Choi, brings local cuisine to Thailand

What does it take to be a Double Ironman finisher? Take a walk, run and ride on the wild side

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Key people Vol. 121 November 2016

Jordan Redmond

Dianne Pineda

Barbara Bierbrauer

A born-and-bred South Carolinian, Jordan has a deep appreciation for all things porcine and fierce opinions about mustard-based BBQ sauce. Other perennial palate-based pursuits include all things Mexican and Japanese as well as the perfect preparation of various types of caffeinated beverages. On Instagram @dwaegukin

Dianne is an online editor, writer, and fashion stylist from Manila who often jets into Korea. If you see a petite girl with a bunch of shopping bags (oftentimes heavier than she is) and rushing to photo shoots in heels - that would probably be her. She's a certified Korean TV show, drama, pop culture, K-fashion and beauty enthusiast that most of her writings are about it (and sometimes it's all she talks about). Follow her travels, fashion and random inspos at @dianne_ panda

Barbara Bierbrauer works as a journalist and a board member of the Songdo International Dog Club, that she founded, while rising two kids and two dogs. She holds a master´s degree in political sciences and used to work as an executive headhunter in Germany. When not working she enjoys running half marathon, train her dogs and practices for a triathlon.

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Jason Newland Jason Newland moved to Korea in 2012 for spicy eats, which to his dismay are harder to find than he expected, but he remains vigilant in his search. He studied English and Philosophy at East Tennessee State University and, in a past life, he dabbled with computers. During the week he spends two hours a day commuting by bicycle along the Han River. His time between cycling commutes is spent learning life lessons from elementary school students and day-dreaming of his next, hopefully, spicy meal.

Casey Mann Simon McEnteggart Simon McEnteggart is a freelance film journalist. After lecturing in Film and Cultural Theory in the UK, he moved to Korea to follow the K-cinema industry more closely, and can be found attending the numerous film festivals throughout the country. You can see more of his work at hangukyeonghwa.com.

Casey Mann has enjoyed residence in Seoul since 2010. A former web designer, movie blogger and film critic, he now spends his time playing guitar at bars – quietly, in a dark corner, so customers can’t hear. He also enjoys discovering new restaurants and hangouts to love, hate, or just plain disregard. Top priority dishes consist of good barbecue and Vietnamese food.

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vienna Leung W RITERS & CONTRIBUTORS

Jack Baer, Ali Saleh, Steve Lemlek, Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Liam Ring, David Murphy, Emma Kalka, Simon McEnteggart Rob Shelley, Barbara Bierbrauer, Jason Newland Yoo Jin Oh, Casey Mann, Andy Hume, Julia Mellor Naomi Blenkinsop, Jordan Redmond, Iztok Fister Dusan Fister, Dianne Pineda, Steve Smith, Kiwi Chamber BCCK, IAK, Irish Embassy, Hancinema, BIFF Robert Evans, Lorenzo Corti, Anuj Madan,Clayton Jones Kaegan Saenz, Giovanni Tamburrini, El Pino 323, Juda ART & DESIGN

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To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com. To contribute to groovekorea, promote an event or share your opinions, please email naheen@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

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The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

What's on MON

WED

TUE

Suncheon Bay Reeds Festival Nov 4-6

Nov 4

Anthrax Live Nov 8 | Hyundai Card Understage in Hannam-dong, Seoul

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Exposition Du Musee Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;orsay until March 5, 2017 | Seoul Arts Center

Jack Reacher: Never Go Back

Sigur Ros Nov 22 | Jamsil stadium

FRI

THU

SAT

SUN

Marilyn Manson Live YES24 LIVE HALL in Gwangjang-dong, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul

Gallant Live | Nov 6 | YES24 LIVE HALL in Gwangjang-dong, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul

Seoul Lantern Festival Nov 4-20 | Cheongyecheon

Ringo Starr & His All Starr Band Live Nov 5 | Jamsil stadium

G-STAR 2016 Nov 17-20 | BEXCO | game exhibition

Denmark: Design until Nov 20 | Seoul Arts Center

Opera Verdi’s Il Trovatore Nov 25-27 | Seoul Arts Center

Korea Beauty Expo Nov 25-27 | COEX

Hell or High Water

Bang Sanghyuk ‘Bang Rang’ Solo Photography Show | Nov 24 - | 683-69 Hannam-dongYongsan-gu, Seoul

Blair Witch

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

CALENDAR November 2016

STOP TRYING, START TREATMENT

The hair loss around us Seoul is a busy city and everyone has their own schedule and duties that fill up each day. In this rapid rhythm of lifestyle, we simply don’t have time stop and look around. This phenomenon can be easily observed in the subway. During the rush hours it is packed with people staring at their devices, listening to music, surfing the internet, texting, or simply sleeping. Nothing seems out of place at first, but when you take a closer look you can notice that the majority of these people show signs of hair loss. Sadly, there are even young people displaying the first symptoms of hair shedding. Imagine a neatly dressed office girl, in perfect makeup, but with miserably looking hair under which you can easily see the entire scalp and head shape. The fact that the majority of 20-40 year olds also struggle with hair loss problems is very sad indeed.

The hair-fall phenomenon Living in the 21st century, we are provided with an excess of food, minerals, and nutrition. However, what is going on with our hair health? Why does seasonal hair shedding bring us so much worry? First of all, we all need to accept the fact that we lose hair every day. It is our hair’s nature to fall out and grow back again. However, for many of us, our hair falls and doesn’t grow back again or our hair falls out but grows back thin and weak. Therefore, we can note that our hair density and volume can decrease by half or more in just 3-4 years. What we don’t know is that 3-4 years ago we assumed that our hair was healthy and didn’t have any problems with excessive shedding, but that was actually the beginning of our hair loss problems.

Story and Photos by Lee Moon Won Clinic

There are 3 stages of hair loss: beginning, intermediate, and terminal Beginning stage regular hair loss, but with a steady decrease in volume; can’t be noticed by surrounding people and no inconvenience in hair styling. Intermediate stage increased hair loss, continuous decrease of volume; can be noticed by surrounding people if the scalp is not hidden with a good volume-up hair style; overall mixture of thin and thick hair shafts. Terminal stage continuous hair falling, thin hair, lack of volume and the end of new hair growth. According to the clinical experience, people struggling with hair loss symptoms usually decide to visit a hair-specialist during the intermediate stage. People at the beginning stage of hair-loss often fail to recognize their problem. They simply don’t see the benefit of spending time or money on their hair growth at this stage. But after 3-4 years of hair loss, when the volume and density decrease, the hair becomes thinner and loses its original beauty: becoming too transparent and light in color. Then they start to panic. Almost 7 out of 10 patients who visit our clinic have hair loss problems at the intermediate stage, unknowingly suffering from it for the previous 5-6 years. 1 Stimulating the secretion of recovery factors to improve the damaged tissue and hair follicles; 2 Reducing the causes of inflammation; 3 Increasing the immunity levels and helping the patient to better endure the irritation from external infection; 4 Stimulating the secretion of substances involved in the growth of the hair; 5 Promoting the regeneration of blood vessels and the smooth circulation of the blood supply.

What causes hair loss? Although every person’s body is different, it is true to say that any malfunction of our body directly affects hair growth. There 5 main causes of hair loss 1 Disease 2 Hormonal misbalance 3 Immune system failure 4 Stress and emotional breakdown 5 Troubled scalp Even members of the same family can suffer hair loss for different reasons. One family member’s symptoms of hair loss will not be 100% inherited. Simply saying that we have the same pattern of hair loss as our parents is unfair, as our hair loss and scalp problems can appear due to our body malfunctioning or its ability to handle daily stress or tension.

It is worth it, because you deserve it! No matter what we do in life, the key to achieving the best results is a consistency of effort and the will to fight until the end. It’s exactly the same with hair loss treatment. Imagine you want to have a perfect six-pack body. To make it happen, you strive hard: working out 3 times a week for several months, until you start noticing the first signs of your new body shape. Some people, after the first 3 months of hard work, are so sick of this everlasting process of dieting and working out that they give up after they see their first results. However, those who have the will to keep going, finally get their dream bodies and achieve their goal.

What to do when we notice The first signs of hair loss? 1 Get a health check-up. 2 Count the falling hair strands on daily basis. 3 Take supportive nutrition (vitamins and supplements). 4 Get enough sleep. 5 Relieve stress with relaxation, massage, or exercise. 6 Start using hair treatment products to protect and revive your hair.

It’s the same story with hair loss treatment. The nature of our hair is the same as our whole body; hair loss doesn’t start or disappear suddenly and quickly.

The process of fighting hair loss, just like losing weight, takes time and perseverance. One must have patience for slow but quality treatment, which will lead to much better results.

When is it time to start the treatment? In case you followed all 6 recommendations of self hair recovery, but still didn’t notice a big difference, then it is strongly recommended to find specialist who can check your scalp and hair condition, and start you on a treatment program. There are many cases when hair loss will continue even if you use a specialized hair product, because it may not be strong enough to cover the problem. In such a case, it is vital to seek professional hair treatment.

Therefore, every person showing signs of hair loss has to accept this fact. Any hair loss progressing for 4-5 years cannot expect to be totally reversed a month after starting treatment. It is a process that, to achieve the best results, requires time and patience. So it’s time to stop restlessly changing shampoo brands, testing numerous hair products and treatment medications, and giving up after only a month. Just stop, take a deep breath, and embrace a one-time quality treatment for yourself. A visit to Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic will show you that some patience and effort is well worth it: when you see the new healthy and beautiful hair you deserve!

Scalp & Hair Medical Care program Scalp & hair Examination Program Computer examination and diagnosis Check condition and get consultation from specialist, treatment program matching, medicine prescription. Time 2 hours / Examination fee 50.000 KRW

BEAUTY HAIR OR SCALP CARE All hair types to optimize scalp conditions for healthy, manageable hair, more radiance, vitality and suppleness. Time 2 hours / Price 170,000 KRW

Luxurious head spa and K-beauty program Advanced recovery treatment for scalp and hair including hair styling to add shine, volume and texture. Time 3 hours / Price 295,000 KRW *Every program includes relaxation massage and blow-drying with style.

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3F, Lee&Yu b/d, 69-5 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea 070-7492-5258 010-4249-3889 / 010-2966-3839 Leemoonwon.international@gmail.com

www.eng.leemoonwon.com

Medicinal herbs based regeneration for scalp and hair • Treatment on distance • Safety and organic ingredients

• Free foreign languages assistance • Full range or services for hair

Over 13 years experience of Specialized service provision! Examination program

The most important in the treatment of hair loss is to clarify the causes of hair loss, and then the selection of individual treatment for each patient based on the state of the scalp and hair.

Treatment program

The professionalism and tireless work on the improvement of methods and products for the treatment of alopecia gave many answers to solving hair and scalp problems. Dr. Lee Moon Won provides you only the best achievements of the laboratory experiments to reach safe and long lasting result of the treatment.

Scalp and Hair care treatment program

Professional program for hair and scalp treatment care- deep cleaning and recovery of scalp and hair; release stiffness of neck and shoulders muscles, improves blood circulation, anti-aging and antistress total relaxation.

Hair Lab Hair Beauty and style

Professional hair designer will provide you with any type of professional hair- style service based on your individual hair and scalp condition; tips how to cover hair imperfections and bald areas.

LEE MOON WON Homecare product

High quality natural care for professional and home use, developed by Dr.Lee Moon Won for his patients. Easy in use and suitable for all types of hair and skin. Prevent your hair through everyday care.

Operating hours MON/TUE 10AM-7PM WED/FRI 10AM-9PM SATURDAY 9AM-5:30PM For reservation 070-7492-5258 010-4249-3889 / 010-2966-3889 Leemoonwon.international@gmail.com

서울시 강남구 청담동 69-5 이유빌딩 3층 3F, Lee&Yu b/d, 69-5 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea

www.eng.leemoonwon.com

Nati onal Ne ws

November 2016 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

Shamanistic cult linked to president

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

pposition politicians have raised suspicion that a cult was behind President Park Geun-hye’s oddly intimate relationship with her longtime friend Choi Soon-sil. “This isn’t even a dictatorship,” Choo Mi-ae, chairwoman of the main opposition Minjoo Party of Korea, said. “It’s a terrifying theocracy.” She added, “Park never communicated with the people. She never communicated with the public servants, vice ministers or ministers. She only had her spiritual communication with Choi.” Park’s relationship with the scandal-ridden friend goes back decades. Choi, 60, is a daughter of the late Choi Tae-min, Park’s mentor. According to various records, Park and Choi Tae-min first met after the first lady, Yuk Young-soo, was assassinated in 1974. He wrote to her and claimed the late Yuk had appeared to him in his dreams and delivered a message to Park. “Park has also been forced to explain her own past, including her relationship some 35 years ago with a pastor, Choi Tae-min, whom her opponents characterize as a ‘Korean Rasputin,’ and how he controlled Park during her time in the Blue House when she was first lady after her mother’s assassination,” a diplomat-

ic cable by then U.S. Ambassador Alexander Vershbow said in 2007, before the presidential primary of Park’s party. It was a confidential report, but was made public by WikiLeaks in 2011. Vershbow continued, “Perhaps even more damaging to her image as the vmaiden who sacrificed herself in the service of the nation upon the assassination of her mother, Park has been linked to the late Choi Tae-min, a charismatic pastor. Rumors are rife that the late pastor had complete control over Park’s body and soul during her formative years and that his children accumulated enormous wealth as a result.” Born in 1912 in Hwanghae Province, Choi Tae-min reportedly worked as a policeman during the Japanese colonial period and became a Buddhist monk after Korea’s liberation. In the early 1970s, he established his own cult, Yeongsaenggyo, literally “Eternal Life,” by combining tenets of Buddhism, Christianity and Korea’s indigenous Confucian-shamanist movement, Cheondoism. He created the Korea Salvation Mission in April 1975. Park attended its masses in subsequent months. In 1976, Park became the president of the New Heart Volunteer Group, established by Choi.

But Choi was questioned by Park’s father, President Park Chung-hee, in September 1977 based on the intelligence agency’s report of his corruption. Nevertheless, he managed to evade any criminal charges. Kim Jae-gyu, then head of the Korean Central Intelligence Agency who assassinated the strongman on Oct. 26, 1979, later wrote in his appeals that Park Chung-hee’s inaction against Choi was one of his motivations for assassinating him. Choi Soon-sil, the fifth daughter of Choi Tae-min, first met Park Geun-hye as the university student president of the volunteer group. She left for Germany in 1979 to study and returned to Korea in 1985. The Choi family gained media attention in 1986 when Park’s little sister, Geun-ryeong, wrote a letter to the Blue House to expose their abuse of power over a nonprofit foundation for children’s welfare a legacy of her late mother. “Choi is a crook and he should be sternly punished and my sister Park Geun-hye should be saved from his capture,” she wrote at the time. Choi Tae-min died in 1994, but rumors spread that his daughter continued to exert her cultbased influence over Park. “Choi Soon-sil reportedly said North Korea will collapse within two years,” Rep. Woo Sang-ho, floor leader of the Minjoo Party, said

up President Park Chung Hee, left, talks to Choi Tae-min, head of the Korea Salvation Mission, right, in 1976 at the group’s nighttime medical center. Park Geun-hye, then presidential daughter and honorary president of the mission, smiles at Choi. down Choi Soon-sil, center left, then university student president of the New Heart Volunteer Group, talks to Park, right, at its inaugural festival in 1979. Park gave a congratulatory speech and Choi declared the opening of the event that day.

Thursday. “She appeared to be a shamanist prophet. If Park was captivated by her prophecy and implemented her foreign and North Korea policies, this is a serious problem.” Rumors spread further as it was pointed out that Park often used unusual expressions in her speeches, possibly influenced by Choi. “If you do not learn history properly, your soul will become abnormal,” Park said on Nov. 10, 2015. “If you wish earnestly, the entire universe will help you,” Park said in her Children’s Day speech in 2015. Rumors also spread that Choi had established a secret inner circle, named the “Eight Fairies,” to control state affairs. The National Intelligence Service’s logo was abruptly changed earlier this year to depict a dragon, and speculation has spread that it symbolizes the Mi-R Foundation. Mireu is an ancient Korean word for “dragon,” and Choi was accused of using the foundation to strongarm conglomerates to make massive donations and then embezzling the money. Moreover, during Park’s inaugural ceremony, a tree was erected at Gwanghwamun Square with small silk purses hung from it in order to conjure good fortune.r.

Nati onal Ne ws

Choi dealt with secrets, appointments : JTBC

hoi Soon-sil, a friend of President Park Geun-hye, may have used her influence in a wide spectrum of state affairs, including sensitive national security matters, an analysis of files on a computer she used shows. JTBC, the TV channel of the JoongAng Media Network, reported October 25 night that Choi not only reviewed and edited Park’s speeches in advance, but also got involved in national security matters, including secret inter-Korean contacts. The report was based on 200 digital files from a computer in Choi’s office. The broadcaster said it obtained the computer by searching through things discarded from Choi’s office after she left the country in the wake of a series of corruption and power abuse allegations. Choi is accused of creating nonprofit foundations to benefit President Park after she leaves office, strong-arming conglom-

ceived of before - possibly to an unprecedented extent. According to the JBTC’s report, a file entitled “Blue House meeting” was saved at 4:56 a.m. on Dec. 28, 2012. The eight-page document laid out a scenario for Park, who was then the president-elect, ahead of her meeting to President Lee Myung-bak. The meeting took place 10 hours later. In a section of the file marked “Foreign affairs and national security issues,” Park was directed to ask Lee a question: “In order to prevent the North’s additional provocations, I believe inter-Korean dialogue is necessary in addition to international cooperation. What contacts have made between the two Koreas?” Underneath the question, a line read: “The military had three secret contacts with the North’s National Defense Commission recently.” Talks between Seoul and Pyongyang for-

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Anchor Sohn Suk-hee reports on JTBC news on October 24 that Choi Sun-sil reviewed and edited President Park Geun-hye’s speeches in advance.

erates to make massive donations to them and personally siphoning off money from them. Choi is a daughter of Park’s former mentor, the late Choi Tae-min. Following JTBC’s report on her editing of the president’s speeches, Park admitted October 25 that she sought help from her longtime friend to write speeches and public addresses and issued a public apology. Choi, however, seems to have exerted much more power over the president than ever con-

mally ceased after the North’s sinking of the warship Cheonan in April 2010. It was confidential information that the South Korean military and the North Korean National Defense Commission had secret contacts in 2012. The document suggests that Choi had access to a national security secret. “After North Korean leader Kim Jong-il died, his son Kim Jong-un succeeded him and publicly declared that he didn’t want anything

to do with the Lee administration,” Chun Yung-woo, who served as Lee’s senior secretary for foreign affairs and security, told the JoongAng Ilbo. “But it continuously requested secret contacts, so I as well as other foreign and military officials talked to the North. But it was a secret at the time.” Some other documents on the computer involved meetings between Park and foreign dignitaries in early 2013, shortly after her presidential victory. A file labeled “Reception of a special envoy from Prime Minister Shinzo Abe” was created ahead of Park’s meeting with Japanese visitors on Jan. 4, 2013. Park’s first public activity as president-elect was receiving three special envoys of Abe. The nine-page document was saved on Choi’s computer about nine hours before the meeting took place. The document specifically instructed Park how to respond to sensitive diplomatic topics during the meeting, including Japanese claims to Dokdo and so-called comfort women, women forced into sexual slavery during World War II. A file created on Jan. 15, 2013, contained a list of lawmakers recommended as a special envoy to China. Following her victory, Park made the unprecedented move of sending a special envoy to China ahead of longtime ally United States. While the sharing of presidential speeches with Choi could be punishable under the Act on the Management of Presidential Archives, leaking foreign affairs and national security secrets is considered far graver. The Criminal Act, Military Criminal Act and Military Secret Protection Act all strictly bar the leaking of diplomatic and national security secrets. The computer files also suggest that Choi interfered in appointments of the Presidential Security Service. A list of candidates for the position of chief of the presidential security service was found on Choi’s computer, the report said. The document was edited on the morning of Jan. 3, 2013, about one month ahead of the appointment.

Ewha Womans University President Choi Kyung-hee resigned October 19, an hour before professors gathered to demand her ouster over allegations that the university gave special treatment to a granddaughter of President Park Geun-hye’s former mentor. It was the first time in Ewha’s 130-year history that a president quit before completing her tenure. “I have decided to resign so that the university will no longer remain divided but continue on a path of harmony and trust,” Choi said in an official statement Wednesday. “I want to assure everyone, though, that there was no special treatment, nor could there have been, for a student athlete at Ewha.” Chung Yoo-ra, granddaughter of Choi Taemin, who was a mentor to President Park, is accused of getting a free ride in the admissions process and earning academic credit and grades despite frequent absences. Chung’s mother is Choi Soon-sil, daughter of Choi Tae-min. The media often describes her as Park’s confidant. Chung’s father, Chung Yoon-hoi, was chief of staff to Park when she

was a second-term lawmaker. When allegations that Chung enjoyed special status at the university surfaced, some 100 professors announced their intention to hold a rally on campus to demand the ouster of the president, the first time in Ewha’s 130 years that professors called for a president’s resignation. “What’s happened on campus over the past two months has shaken our belief in the university and its founding spirit,” said Park Kyoung-mi, a professor of Christian studies at the university. “For one, Choi called 1,600 police officers to crack down on student protesters, and instead of meeting the students for a dialogue, suggested that those engaged in a sit-in may not be students but outside forces.” Students have been engaged in a sit-in for 84 days sparked from a university plan to build a college of continuing education despite students’ opposition. “Since then, allegations concerning Chung surfaced,” Park said. “President Choi had turned the campus into a greedy marketplace and a bureaucratic authoritarian system, and

Nati onal Ne ws

Ewha president forced to step down by protests

professors reached a decision to oust the dictator and save the students.” At the rally, professors demanded the safety of students engaged in the sit-in be ensured, including protection from disciplinary action, and reform in the selection process of the president and the organizational structure of the university, including its board of directors. Students still face police investigations for engaging in the sit-in and, according to police, locking university staff in a building. Thousands of students joined professors at the rally, marching with them and shouting “Free Ewha” and “Away with corruption.” “Given Choi’s failure to communicate with the students and the rest of the university, in addition to her decision to stick the police on students instead of trying to speak with them,” the student protesters said in a statement, “it is only right that Choi is stepping down. “Still,” they added, “we regret that she did not apologize to the students before she resigned, and hereby request that all measures be followed through to cancel admissions of students that are found to have been admitted unfairly.” Professors also called for a thorough investigation into the allegations about Chung. “We will remain vigilant in inspections at the university,” Park said, “and we will find out if Choi and her aides and the Park administration had anything to do with the corruption allegations.”

C OMMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The alternative world of Noraeba

A Soulless Tune: Noraebangs and the Decadent Underbelly of Korean

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

was all ready to leave when my phone erupty love affair with South Koed at 5.50pm, my hyeong: “Hey, what are you rea began in 2010 when I was doing for dinner? Me and the boss are going to employed as an unruly cog a birthday dinner. Do you want to come?” Sufin the English teaching mafice to say any plans I had were quickly cast chine. I settled into my job and routine and aside and the three of us drove quickly found a kindred spirit to the restaurant. We arrived, in an older work colleague who exchanged pleasantries and betook me under his wing and You can’t move gan slamming the extremely pohelped with the mundanely eswithout seeing sential parts of settling into a the alluring neon tent and expensive whisky my boss bought for the birthday boy. new environment. “Call me ‘hylights enticing My hyeong was highly animated eong’,” he told me one evening you to sing a few and the perfect party guest. He while downing soju mixed with tunes, forget beer. “It means older brother.” your troubles and ambled around the large table, sharing drinks and jokes with I already have a whole stable unwind. everyone. By 7:30 he was slurof older brothers but had never ring his words, an hour later he taken to someone so quickly and was so hammered he could barely make it fondly, and so I used the term affectionately outside. Most of us were sober and, in between both at work and while out on the tear, which the sibals and demands for more booze, the was frequent. party tried ushering him into a taxi. Noticing One such session inspired the events of my night was coming to an end, and having this tale. It was an unremarkable Tuesday that only drunk a meagre amount, l stepped in and ended on a remarkable Wednesday morning. I

said I’d look after him, told them I’d bring him to a GS and give him water. Told them I’d look after him. Pleaded with them to leave us be! We rolled along the footpath smoking cigarettes, deciding where to go next; I told him he needed to sober up some. “It’s only 9pm,” I told him. “It’s far too early to go home but you’re far too pissed to continue.” Not long after, he was on his phone. He winked at me: “I’m calling my madam, just sit down there and wait, smoke a cigarette.” I thought this was going to spell trouble. “Madam.” We bundled into a taxi and sped toward the downtown area. “A noreabang,” he spat over his left shoulder in answer to my question of where we were headed. “Just sit back and relax. I’ll take care of everything.”

Ominous words. Noraebangs in South Korea are as ubiquitous as guns in America. You can’t move without seeing the alluring neon lights enticing you to sing a few tunes, forget your troubles

Story and Photos by Jack Baer

and unwind. Most foreigners have frequented noraebangs, drank overpriced beer and soju and sung awful renditions of Bob Dylan and ABBA tunes. I only knew of the standard noraebangs: a dimly lit, smoky room available to you and your mates for KRW 20,000 an hour. Afterward you roll out onto the street and leave. End of. However, there are alternative noreabangs where another commodity besides booze is on offer. Some noraebangs openly advertise doumi – literally “helpers” – to entertain you in the course of singing. There are no obvious signs that the noraebang you see is of this persuasion and it seems that, to access and indulge in this hidden world, you need one of two things: a male South Korean mate or, as a foreigner, the ability to speak fluent Korean and convince the owner to open up this darker, seedier world. The cab pulled up to a street lined with noraebangs and restaurants and bars; a blueprint of how most streets look in nearly every city

C OMMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Society

the bedside table. She answered and quickly in South Korea. Nothing seemed untoward. departed, leaving me alone in bed with a half“Where the f**k is it?” asked my puzzled hysmoked lipstick-stained cigarette in an ash eong to no one in particular. “It’s been a while tray beside me. The TV was tuned to somesince I was here. I can’t remember the exact thing and someone speaking in a language I building.” He made a swift phone call and couldn’t recognize. I rose, cursed, laced up my a young-looking kid quickly arrived on the shoes and left to emerge into the cruel daylight scene and led us into the building housing the of a sleepy Wednesday. I checked my phone – noraebang. My hyeong’s disposition changed 7.15am. Welcome to the Land of the Morning dramatically once inside, he became coherCalm. Alternative noraebangs are a shadowy ent and amiable, perhaps sensing what was decadent underbelly of South Korean society hidden in the darkened rooms and knowing where soju and an hour of sex with a prostiit would soon be available to us. The madam tute go hand in hand; both commodities can asked for payment upfront – KRW 200,000 be bought cheaply and enjoyed frequently. apiece. He offered his credit card. The madThere were many questions am led us around a wide corner I had for my hyeong – and I still and into a broad, dimly lit room The madam do, because I never broached where a platter of fruit and two exchanged a few the subject once we left the nobottles of whiskey sat neatly on words with my raebang and sobered up. Is this a large glass table. The madam hyeong, quickly a common thing in our compaexchanged a few words with my departed and ny? Does he come here often? hyeong, quickly departed and returned almost Does he not feel any regret? But returned almost immediately immediately leading it seems, however, that what ocleading a procession of girls. a procession curs whilst drunk shall remain The girls, a dozen in total, of girls. in that place, tucked away in a look jaded and uncomfortable, hazy part of the mind, never to their skinny frames poured into be discussed again. He is married with kids garish tight-fitting dresses. They stood like and I, at the time, was in a relationship with statues under the muted hue of the large TV a wonderful girl. I could write how ashamed I screen. I shifted uneasily in my seat, acutely am of my behavior but that would simply be a aware of the many eyes on me. I emptied my lie. I now didn’t feel any guilt or regret. For me, glass but the whiskey still hadn’t dulled my at the time, I had no regrets and enjoyed every senses. “Choose one,” said the madam once moment of it. again. “They are waiting for you.” My hyeong Paying for sex has existed in South Komotioned to a girl at the far end but I already rea for as long as South Korea existed. Prosknew the one for me. I slowly made my way titution is not a modern institution here. Not toward the girl who met my gaze. “Hello,” I long after the end of the Korean War, the said in my best Korean, “You’re quite lovely.” South Korean and American governments She smiled slowly and complimented me on struck an agreement to supply South Korean my two phrases of Korean. I sighed and cursed women to American soldiers. The pact tacitly under my breath; nagging feelings of guilt and endorsed prostitution and by 1962 there were shame crept up on me. My hyeong slapped roughly 20,000 sex workers, accounting for my back, “Welcome to the real Korea,” he said 25% of South Korea’s GNP. The South Korean and pounced on a particularly dejected-lookgovernment began cracking down on the sex ing girl with poorly bleached blond hair. The industry in 2002, slapping the workers with madam ushered the rejected harem out of the petty fines and opening up help centers in an room and gave us a knowing smile before closeffort to steer the women away from the street ing the door on our sordid affair. and enroll in educational classes but it proved The madam closed the door and left us to futile; the number of sex workers still remains enjoy the few hours my hyeong had bought. high with estimates varying from 200,000 to By the end of our time singing and guzzling 1 million. whiskey, the two girls exchanged a knowing For those who argue that prostitution is glance, stood up and motioned for us to follow inherently unethical, that figure will hardly them to an elevator bound for the third floor. be a reason to change official policy. But my My hyeong disappeared around a corner with visit to that alternative noraebang is a telling his prize while mine led me to a standard bedreminder of how hard it is to eradicate an inroom, where she told me to quickly shower dustry that goes back millennia. As more and and proceeded to take off all her clothes. more countries legalize sex work, South Korea’s Luckily, I grow quite melancholic and inapproach feels outdated and ineffective. trospective when drunk so I merely sat on the bed and asked her if she wouldn’t mind dressing and lying down next to me while I slept Jack Baer is a European writer based outside of Seoul working for a large South Korean for an hour or so. Sometime after passing out, company. her phone hummed and buzzed into life on

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Seoul's Tarot Readers

Your Future in The Palm of Their Hands

Story by Ali Saleh Photos by Steve Smith

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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www.groovekorea.com November 2016 27

Gwang-Jin and Ah-Yeong, a couple in their early 20s, went for a saju reading on their 100th day celebration—quite an important dating achievement in Korea. “It was our first time doing this, but the readings were mostly helpful and fun,” Gwang-Jin said. The event, they admitted, wasn't planned. “We were just walking around and thought it might be fun.” The couple looked at one another and agreed that the readings were about 50% true, before fading into the crowd with their fingers interlocked. One of the last things Han told me was that I would find a wife in the year 2020 or 2021. Whether or not that is true, as with most clients who take a plunge into the crystal ball, only time will tell. Until then, the ubiquitous buskers, street performers, and festivities of a typical night out in Hongdae didn't seem like a bad way to pass the time.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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heong Myeong, owner of Myeong Ga Tarot, hesitantly eyed me and the photographer. She turned her head and sighed before spreading her deck of cards along the smooth brown cloth cloaking the table. “Select three cards,” she said. Myeong's quiet establishment operates in the heart of Hongdae, adjacent to a number of tarot card shops and other mystic venues. It's small and modest, housing only two tables and a few chairs with minimal decoration. Myeong flipped the last card and looked at me. “This month, September, was okay for you,” she said. “Next month will be terrible and November will be good. But December will be very It's best for you to good. It's best for you to start datstart dating at the ing at the end of next year and end of next year you should only date someone and you should the same age as you or younger. only date someone were some distinct differences Anyone older will turn out to be the same age as between Han and Myeong’s a disaster. Also, your wife will you or younger. be unsuccessful, poor, and have Anyone older will predictions. Han stated that my future partner should be lackluster looks at best.” This, in turn out to be a older, could be rich, and will short, was Myeong's account of disaster. be open-minded. She also said my love life in the months and that I'm pure when it comes to years to come. dating, while Myeong accused me of being a Tarot card readings, originally a game playboy when she flipped a card framing a originating in 15th century Europe, have mandevilish figure. aged to find their way to the Korean peninsula Their structures were also slightly differand gain popularity over the past two decent, with Myeong asking her clients to remove ades. The cards have, since their conception, three to four cards in different sets, while Han become a means of divination for those eager asked that ten cards be removed from the start enough to seek a glimpse into their future. Serand then turned over one by one. Both readvices have quickly sprung up throughout the ers are certified alumni of Dongguk Universicountry and can be found in street-side tents ty and operate in Hongdae on Seogyo-dong's and vans, in cafes, or, like Myeong's business, busiest street, across from the H&M. in small tarot shops stationed in busy areas. Young fortune-goers buzzed around the “Love is the most requested category,” Myshops as the night settled. So-Yeon, a tweneong said. “The next most popular are health, ty-three-year old working in finance, received financial/work life, and family or social quesa love reading. “I mostly wanted to know if I tions.” could get into a relationship before the year While Myeong was convinced that the ends,” she said. reason for tarot reading popularity has mostly Another critical aspect about fortune to do with its “scientific accuracy,” other readtelling, especially with the ancient practice ers had a different take. of saju, is the new year. With 2017 fast apJust a few meters away, I met Han Cheongproaching, and the uncertainty that many Weon, owner of Bae-Ga Tarot. “If you don't feel regarding the changes they would like believe in the cards,” she said, “nothing will to see in the future, Koreans flock to forcome of the reading.” Unlike Myeong, Han betune services full of questions. Some of lieves that tarot cards serve a more psychologthe most popular establishments require ical and emotional function. reservations well in advance around this “The cards are simply there to guide you, time. “But it wasn't a good result,” So-Yeon not as complete truth” she said. “The practice admitted. “I'm not satisfied. I'll have to go is best served for those who are alone or who again soon.” have some crisis in their lives.” Han thinks of Seo-Yeon believes that the readings are herself as more of a counselor, and the cards about 80% accurate and that she would only as a means to direct her clients towards solvimplement small changes to her lifestyle ing their problems or concerns. She's also been based on the results. Changes like cutting reading tarot cards for almost two decades. her hair, dressing a certain way, or rethinkDespite her tarot reading also suggesting ing her routines, just to fit the cards' readings. that I should wait until next year to date, there

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Happy Hagwon Three Rules to ESL Success Story and Photos by Steve Lemlek

be over encumbered with think we’re failing our students. school-enforced curricuI really do. But we can do better. How lum and testing goals, we many of your students can speak are here first and foremost English? I’m not talking about the to give English speaking experience to our monosyllabic pupils who can kinda-sorta restudents. By not fulfilling that requirement, spond to your questions. I mean, full on, pretwe have become the problem. But we’re also ty-damn-decent conversation. the solution. If you’re like me, then not too many. Now, how do we go about fixing this? That’s a shame. It really is. In some way, Well, luckily for me, I’ve met a handful of truly we are failing our students. I say this as a exceptional ESL instructors who have thrived 4-year veteran of the ESL game in Korea. I in Korea. They regularly produce some of the know that’s not too terribly long. But my 10brightest batches of students in the Gyeongyear+ colleagues still lament about the same gi-do area. So let me tell you a bit about their thing. Our kids just can’t speak English well. rules. There are three of them. They seem Besides the bright 10 percent in any given simple, obvious, and all too easy. They’re not. class, students at schools, hagwons, and even My buddy (and the other university are failing to commuhalf of my company Hal & Steve nicate in the most fundamental English) Hal Wiley told me about way possible: conversation. The expectation his three classroom rules about There’s more than enough for all of Hal’s a year ago. I didn’t realize it at blame to go around for these students is that the time, but he would change shortcomings. We can blame they must obey the stubborn adherence to tradihis rules in order my entire career as an English tional Korean education practicto be successful. instructor. No Korean. No touching. es. Or, we can spare a handful And so they abide. No shouting. Pretty simple rules, of criticism for the parents who right? And they’re probably the drive an industry of gramrules that you try to instil in your classroom, mar-obsessed hagwons. They don’t so much but Hal’s execution is flawless. It all begins teach English as babysit kids while punishing with the first impression. He’ll walk in, fearthem with grammar books. lessly, no hesitation. He marches to the white But the buck really has to stop with us. board, picks up a black marker, and points it at Let’s look at ourselves, the native English the nearest student. speaking instructors. In spirit, we are hired to “What’s your name?” give Korean students an opportunity to speak “I’m Bobby” and Hal scribbles their name with a true-blue English speaker. We are the on whiteboard. conversation experts. Again, in spirit, we are If they’re bereft of an English name, then here to create generations of English talkers, he’ll quickly supply them one. He follows this gabbers, and chatters. Even though we may same routine, every day, for the rest of the school year. By queuing up the kids with the easiest of English questions, “What is your name”, their fear of looking foolish in English is assuaged. He’ll then ask the class “What are my rules?” His students, which have ranged from rambunctious countryside elementary children to monstrous Bundang brats, recite his three laws without hesitation. Discipline begins with expectations. The expectation for all of Hal’s students is that they must obey his

rules in order to be successful. And so they abide. He’ll then write the number “5” on the board. You know the three-strikes rule, right? Well, this is the same thing, except bumped up by a couple. For every violation of Hal’s rules, the class is deducted a point. If they somehow manage to endure an entire class without losing all of their points, then they’re awarded a star. If they receive 8 stars, then they’re rewarded with a pizza or ramen party. A bit luxurious, I know. A few of my short-pocketed friends have criticized this method for being way too expensive just to teach English. Well, if you’re too cheap, then why don’t you ask your school to cover the bill? Or, alternatively, you can have a “snack party” and ask each student to bring a shareable amount of goodies for the class. And, at the end of the day, this simple rule nets you one of the most sought after environments for any instructor. English conversation. Your students, whether they’re just trading insults or making dirty jokes, will be speaking English. And that’s what we’re trying to achieve. You might say “Steve, of course I tell my kids to speak English in class… but they don’t”. I’ve been in the same situation as you. I thought I was instilling my fiery expectations of English-only in the classroom. My students didn’t care. Whenever they sensed a weak spot in my lesson or became bored with whatever game I prepared for them, Korean entered the class. These rules are fundamental. They’re meant for you to adopt. Passionately. Zealously. You should punish your students for failing them and richly reward them when they observe them. Even if you’ve spent months creating your curriculum, your best laid plans will go flying out the window if you don’t have fundamental classroom rules. Use these rules. Reward your students generously. Punish them fairly. After a year in your classroom, I guarantee that they’ll have spoken more English than in any other teacher’s. That is, after all, what we want them to achieve.

The Kiwi Chamber

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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The Kiwi Chamber look back at a successful 2016 Story byNaheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by The Kiwi Chamber

he Kiwi Chamber

organizations are looking very rosy.” Undoubtedly, the Kiwi Chamber have Dr. Tony Garrett has been been central to developing relationships bechairman for just over a year tween the Korea-New Zealand community and reflects upon 2016 as an exthis year, foremost by providing a host of netcellent one for the Kiwi Chamber. Having run working opportunities through their showcase another successful New Zealand Wine FestiWine Festival, regular Hui events and yearval in both Busan and Seoul (now in its fourth end Grand Hui. Further networking ventures and eighth year respectively) and continuing such as Waitangi Day – a New to offer support to their charity Zealand National Day celebraSongjukwon Girls Orphanage This past year, tion held at Mozzie – was jointly with partner ANZ Bank, the the Kiwi Chamber organized with the Kiwi Alumni Kiwi Chamber have also furand ANZ Bank and the recent Commonwealth ther solidified their ties with the (together with Networking Evening saw strong other commonwealth chambers, strong support support for AustCham, who ANZA and the Kiwi Alumni to from the Grand led the event, to help the Kiwi strengthen their community reHyatt Seoul and Chamber continue to strengthlationships. the New Zealand en their relationships with other Tony comments on one of Embassy) have chambers in Korea. the Chamber’s most notable 2016 been a tower of The Kiwi Chamber also supachievements - the first full year strength for ports their own charities directof the Korea-New Zealand Free the Songjukwon ly, offering monetary and educaTrade Agreement (FTA) - which orphanage by tional support to the Gapyeong will be celebrated at the uphelping facilitate Student Scholarships and Songcoming Year End Grand Hui on a number of jukwon Orphanage. They were Thursday, November 17, 2016 at exciting events. also sponsors at the Second the Four Seasons Hotel. With the Pasifika Connect and the Anza Kiwi Chamber able to capitalize Ball, helping these organizations in supporting on the FTA between Korea and New Zealand, their charities as partners. Tony remarks, “many companies have taken With 2017 around the corner, there are advantage of the opportunities the FTA has more plans, more support and more events provided, while many more are looking at the in the pipeline. Alongside the usual signature potential it offers them. The business opporand partnership events and charity endeavtunities arising for Korean and New Zealand

ours, the Kiwi Chamber hope to increase the number of smaller networking dates, Huis and workshops taking place next year. As Tony notes, “we want to provide increased information to our members and also to the community as a whole. Specifically we wish to increase the profile and relevance of our organization to our current and potential members, through the provision of more opportunities for our members to share information and network”. With the upcoming Year-End Grand Hui on November 17, it will mark the end of a productive and successful year in yet another entertaining networking opportunity for its members and guests from the local business community to continue building on Korean and New Zealand relationships into the New Year.

Songjukwon Girls’ Orphanage One of the Kiwi Chamber’s biggest endeavours is working with their charity, the Songjukwon Girls’ Orphanage. The project, which is a Kiwi Chamber and ANZ Bank joint initiative, is a program which offers genuine backing to those in the Korean community. Offering a viable link of support between Korean and New Zealand ties, the project aims to offer the residents of the Songjukwon Girls Orphanage a sustainable and horticultural education by providing practical English development support through their program of events. This past year, the Kiwi Chamber and

classes and a forthcoming Christmas party, the girls also participated in an annual Chuseok event which is hosted for them at the New Zealand Embassy residence. The Kiwi Chamber and ANZ Bank are no strangers to the orphanage offering not only monetary support, but educational experiences as well. With many more great events planned in 2017, the Kiwi Chamber aims for the experiences to provide the Songjunkwon Girls a support network for when they leave the orphanage. It is hoped that through programs like this, that the Kiwi Chamber project can make a difference and even establish a scholarship program to enable Songjukwon students to enter higher education in New Zealand once they leave.

The Kiwi Chamber Year End Hui The Year-End Grand Hui is the signature event for the Kiwi Chamber and this year is no exception. Since 2009, the party has celebrated the past year’s endeavours and looks forward to a prosperous twelve months ahead. With a little more to celebrate this November 17, the Year-End Grand Hui at the Four Seasons’ Nuri Ballroom has a lot to commemorate. The biggest success is the end of the first full year of the Korean-New Zealand Free Trade Agreement which entered

into force on December 20, 2015, resulting in a strengthening of business and trade relationships between Korea and New Zealand. The Grand Hui is being co-hosted by the Kiwi Chamber and the New Zealand Embassy Seoul with around 150 guests expected at the event. Members, friends and business associates of The Kiwi Chamber, New Zealand Embassy, New Zealand Trade and Enterprise, New Zealand Tourism and New Zealand Education will be celebrating what has been a successful year for New Zealand and Korea relations. Hoping to live up to its name, the event will boast New Zealand-themed music, games and raffle prizes with a fantastic accompanying buffet for the guests alongside the New Zealand ambassador and fellow dignitaries giving speeches in celebration of the first year of the FTA. With a pleasant mix of traditional entertainment, food and company, the Kiwi Chamber Year-End Grand Hui will celebrate a New Zealand-Korea relationship which continues to grow stronger. Save the date to help the Kiwi Chamber celebrate. When 7pm-10pm Thursday November 17, 2016 Where The Nuri Ball Room, 6F, The Four Seasons Hotel, Gwanghwamun, Seoul Cost KRW 80,000 (members) / KRW 90,000 (non-members) Website www.kiwichamber.com

ANZ Bank (together with strong support from the Grand Hyatt and the New Zealand Embassy) have been a tower of strength for the orphanage by helping facilitate a number of exciting events. The year started with an ice skating day-out, held at the Grand Hyatt with many special guests from the New Zealand Embassy and the Kiwi Chamber also delivering gifts to the girls. A Spud in a Bucket event was held in April which aimed to teach the girls about the importance of crops, with a later harvesting session to check on their crops during the summer. As Tony explains, “these are fun events focusing on the planting, caring and harvesting (and eating) of the humble potato. There is a strong educational component. There is a lecture, for example, on the history and caring of the potato. The intention is to provide the girls with lifelong skills.” In addition, this year will see the opening of a library space at the orphanage providing a dedicated reading and learning space for the girls, partly funded by the Kiwi Chamber/ANZ program. This summer, the girls also participated in the newly launched Hyatt Thrive Program, which was designed to encourage children to experience arts and crafts, nature and the great outdoors. The event, which was sponsored by the Grand Hyatt Seoul, was held at the hotel’s grand camping zone and enabled the girls to make water rockets and bracelets before enjoying a buffet lunch on the grounds of the hotel. In addition to some fun cooking

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

The Kiwi Chamber also supports their own charities directly, offering monetary and educational support for Gapyeong Student Scholarships and Songjukwon Orphanage

C OMMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com November 2016 32

The BCCK Christmas Returns for the Fes

er the Korean and British communities who he British Chamber of Commerce have been working together this past year. The in Korea (BCCK) hosts their monlunch also supports its good causes through its umental end of the year Christmas charity raffle. BCCK have long supported the Lunch, returning to the Four SeaJeon Jin Sang Centre, which provides medisons Hotel on Friday December 2. The guest list cal and palliative care, after-school care and is expected to serve more than 450 guests from scholarships for its citizens and the Myongdo over 300 companies as the ultimate British Welfare Centre which helps over 700 children Christmas Lunch experience comes to Seoul. and adults with various disabilities. The BCCK British Ambassador Charles Hay, BCCK is also offering the BCCK Chevening ScholarChairman Steve Duckworth and BCCK CEO ship again this year. In conjunction with the Sean Blakeley will be joined by both business British Government’s international awards leaders from the British Council, the Britscheme, the scholarship allows for a business ish Embassy and the Korea Britain Society and/or international trade and amongst a host of guests from economics graduate student to their member companies. The Christmas be sent to study in the UK. The Christmas Lunch sees Lunch sees no no shortage of entertainment “The annual Christmas Lunch shortage of either with a number of perforis one of our signature events durentertainment mances by local groups taking ing the year,” says BCCK CEO either with to the stage. The Seoul Foreign Sean Blakeley. “It puts all our a number of British School Senior Choir will members and their guests into a performances give a performance while the holiday frame of mind to raise by local groups British Salvation Army will play taking to the stage. funds for good causes. We are both before and during the lunch really looking forward to the celwith some traditional Christmas ebrate Christmas and the endsounds. Pentasonic, a four piece from Seoul, of-the-year this way.” will also bring their contemporary sound to The BCCK Christmas Lunch is the social the stage while the Camarata Music Company event of the year, bringing together the local perform some of those more renowned festive community for a taste of a traditional Christcarols in perfect harmony. mas celebration. Santa has his ticket booked – Special guests will also include Santa and there’s still time to get yours. Claus himself and in addition to the perforWhen December 2, 2016 mances, the guests are also expected to proWhere The Four Seasons Hotel, Grand Ballroom (3F), Four Seasons Hotel, 97 Saemunan-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul vide the entertainment. Be prepared for the Time 11.30am - 3pm biggest and loudest rendition of “The 12 Days Cost KRW 145,000 (members) / KRW 165,000 of Christmas” as all tables will be gently en(non-members) per seat KRW 1,400,000 (members) / couraged to sing-a-long in the competition. 1,600,000 (non-members) per table Show your own creative performance skills, Website www.bcck.or.kr Email rsvp@bcck.or.kr your powerful vocals or party spirit – and you Tel 02-6365-2300 could even win a prize. The lunch itself will offer all guests a traditional four-course lunch including a choice of The BCCK Formed in 1977, the British Chamber of Commerce in Korea (BCCK) is a membership-based, noncuts, all the trimmings and a delightful Christprofit organisation that represents the business interests of mas dessert tray. All meals also come with an its members in Korea. The Chamber represents a broad individual Christmas cracker and accompaspectrum of British, international and Korean companies, nying red and white wines to get everyone which all share significant commercial interests in the into the party spirit. Enjoy each course as the country. The Chamber has some 300 members of which approximately 25% are Korean companies/ entertainment plays in the background with individuals. The Chamber also works together with the guest speakers from the British Embassy and British government to promote British trade, commerce BCCK also reviewing the year. and investment in Korea and to encourage business The annual lunch aims to serve all guests development between Korean and British companies. a networking opportunity, bringing togeth-

Lunch tive Season

The British Chamber of Commerce In Korea host their annual lunch at the Four Seasons Hotel

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

C OMMU NITY

Story byNaheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by BCCK

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

C OMMU NITY

A Frenetic 2016 for

the Embassy of Ireland Groove Korea talks to Deputy Head of Mission David Murphy about a busy 2016 for the Embassy of Ireland Story by David Murphy (Deputy Head of Mission) and Liam Ring Photos by Embassy of Ireland

month of the year with the Embassy of Ireland hen it comes to representing its involved in three events. One of South Korea’s citizens overseas, there can be more well-known Irish expats – Professor few embassy staff better pracEmeritus Kevin O’Rourke of Kyunghee Unitised across the world than Ireland’s. An esversity – published William George Aston in timated 80 million people worldwide can Korea in an event co-hosted by the Irish and claim some link to the Emerald Isle and the British Embassies. Aston worked for the BritIrish government even took the step in 2014 ish Foreign Service during his time in Korea of appointing its own Minister of State for the and the Derry-born civil servant holds the title Diaspora. No pressure then for the embassy of of the first Irishman to live on these shores for one of the most socially active expatriate coman extended period of time. June also saw the munities in South Korea, but as always, it is a Embassy of Ireland hire a booth for the first challenge that Ambassador Aingeal O’Donotime at the Korea Queer Festival in Seoul Plaghue and her staff have met with aplomb. za, with the remit of informing Once the winter freeze had people of Ireland’s work in seat least somewhat abated, the The one-day curing victory in the same-sex Embassy and the Irish Associfestival was marriage referendum last year. ation of Korea set about preparattended by Finally, for a taste of home, the ing for the annual St. Patrick’s thousands of Irish, Hyundai Irish Gourmet Week Day festivities at D-Cube City in Sindorim. The one-day festi- somewhat Irish, and gave everyone the opportunity those just after an to sample fresh Irish products val was attended by thousands afternoon of fun (particularly seafood) at the of Irish, somewhat Irish, and to create one of Hyundai Trade Center Store in those just after an afternoon of the busiest Gangnam. This was the precurfun to create one of the busiest festivals ever. sor to an event held later in Sepfestivals ever. The after-party tember by the Ambassador titled at the Rocky Mountain Tavern A Taste of Ireland which showcased the best was also a massive hit with an evening of in Irish food and drink. That month also saw music, dance and frivolity spread over two the appointment ceremony of Concern Worldfloors. Later in the month, the Embassy also wide celebrity goodwill ambassador Lee Yoonplayed host to an evening of music with Irish ji at the Irish Ambassadorial residence. composers Nick Roth and Anna Murray. The The year 2016 marked the 100th anniverevent, held at Maison Pernod Ricard in collabsary of the Easter Rising back in the Republic; oration with Jameson Irish Whiskey, saw the an event that still has repercussions today for world premiere of Roth’s latest composition both sides of the Irish border. Working in conSeed II. junction with the Liberal Arts department of June brought with it, arguably, the busiest

Korea University, the Embassy offered a series of talks and short film screenings which were conducted to commemorate a key moment in the struggle for Irish independence from British rule. Additionally, in a more modern cinematic take, the Irish Association of Korea have worked in conjunction with the Embassy of Ireland to continue their annual video competition aimed at third level students. This year’s competition, titled Visions of Ireland offers a flight to Ireland and two weeks of English-language lessons for the talented winner. At a time when the two countries are engaged in closer political, economic and educational dialogue, the Embassy of Ireland and the IAK work extensively to foster greater links between the two countries. This year also saw the first visit of a minister from the Irish Department of Agriculture to Korea as well as the first round of political dialogue between Ireland and Korea taking place in Dublin. It wasn’t the only Korea / Ireland connection of the year, as the Seoul Gaels organised a trip to Ireland for some of their kids team to play Gaelic Football. In addition, six of the ladies team also represented Team Asia at the inaugural World Gaelic Games in Dublin. As more potential for closer collaboration presents itself, 2017 promises to be as busy a year for the embassy, the IAK and the wider Irish community in Korea. Opening Hours Monday to Friday 09:00 – 12:30 and 13:30 to 17:00 website www.dfa.ie/irish-embassy/republic-of-korea/ TEL (02) 721 7200 Twitter @IrishEmbKorea

Circle November 12 for a day (and night) of history, culture and festivities with the Irish Association of Korea Story by Liam Ring Photos by Irish Association of Korea

the IAK work extensively to foster greater links between the two countries. This year also saw the first visit of a minister from the Irish Department of Agriculture to Korea as well as the first round of political dialogue between Ireland and Korea taking place in Dublin. It wasn’t the only Korea / Ireland connection of the year, as the Seoul Gaels organised a trip to Ireland for some of their kids team to play Gaelic Football. In addition, six of the ladies team also represented Team Asia at the inaugural World Gaelic Games in Dublin. As more potential for closer collaboration presents itself, 2017 promises to be as busy a year for the embassy, the IAK and the wider Irish community in Korea.

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

COST Tickets for the day are KRW10,000, This price includes breakfast, tours and admission to the evening event. Spaces are limited so pre-payment is necessary Email irishassociationkorea@gmail.com Twitter @irishinkorea Facebook Irish Association of Korea

and the Derry-born civil servant holds the title hen it comes to representing its of the first Irishman to live on these shores for citizens overseas, there can be an extended period of time. June also saw the few embassy staff better pracEmbassy of Ireland hire a booth for the first tised across the world than Ireland’s. An estitime at the Korea Queer Festival in Seoul Plamated 80 million people worldwide can claim za, with the remit of informing people of Iresome link to the Emerald Isle and the Irish land’s work in securing victory in the samegovernment even took the step in 2014 of apsex marriage referendum last pointing its own Minister of State year. Finally, for a taste of for the Diaspora. No pressure With so many home, the Hyundai Irish Gourthen for the embassy of one of the generations and met Week gave everyone the most socially active expatriate walks of life opportunity to sample fresh communities in South Korea, but included, this Irish products (particularly as always, it is a challenge that November Saturday seafood) at the Hyundai Trade Ambassador Aingeal O’Donopromises to be a Center Store in Gangnam. This ghue and her staff have met with special one for was the precursor to an event aplomb. all from the most held later in September by the Once the winter freeze had casual to ardent of Ambassador titled A Taste of at least somewhat abated, the Irish watchers Ireland which showcased the Embassy and the Irish Associabest in Irish food and drink. tion of Korea set about preparing That month also saw the appointment cerefor the annual St. Patrick’s Day festivities at mony of Concern Worldwide celebrity goodD-Cube City in Sindorim. The one-day festiwill ambassador Lee Yoon-ji at the Irish Amval was attended by thousands of Irish, somebassadorial residence. what Irish, and those just after an afternoon of The year 2016 marked the 100th anniverfun to create one of the busiest festivals ever. sary of the Easter Rising back in the Republic; The after-party at the Rocky Mountain Tavan event that still has repercussions today for ern was also a massive hit with an evening both sides of the Irish border. Working in conof music, dance and frivolity spread over two junction with the Liberal Arts department of floors. Later in the month, the Embassy also Korea University, the Embassy offered a series played host to an evening of music with Irish of talks and short film screenings which were composers Nick Roth and Anna Murray. The conducted to commemorate a key moment in event, held at Maison Pernod Ricard in collabthe struggle for Irish independence from Britoration with Jameson Irish Whiskey, saw the ish rule. Additionally, in a more modern cineworld premiere of Roth’s latest composition matic take, the Irish Association of Korea have Seed II. worked in conjunction with the Embassy of June brought with it, arguably, the busiest Ireland to continue their annual video compemonth of the year with the Embassy of Ireland tition aimed at third level students. This year’s involved in three events. One of South Korea’s competition, titled Visions of Ireland offers a more well-known Irish expats – Professor flight to Ireland and two weeks of English-lanEmeritus Kevin O’Rourke of Kyunghee Uniguage lessons for the talented winner. versity – published William George Aston in At a time when the two countries are enKorea in an event co-hosted by the Irish and gaged in closer political, economic and educaBritish Embassies. Aston worked for the Brittional dialogue, the Embassy of Ireland and ish Foreign Service during his time in Korea

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

145 years of the Irish in Korea

C OMMU NITY

Half a World away:

Rekindling the romance and rediscovering family ties this November Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos by HanCinema

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Three by Relationships

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

hanks largely to several high profile international titles hitting multiplexes in November, this month is relatively quiet in terms of Korean output. However, there are some interesting films set to emerge for K-film fans to see, many of which are centered around the concept of relationships. The biggest films this month focus on the rekindling of love between a middle-aged couple, the bond between mother and daughter following a possible kidnapping, and the strength of friendship as a young boy mysteriously ages into an adult. Be sure to look out for these smaller, more intimate titles this month, as December sees the release of blockbusters in the run up to Christmas.

ENTERTAINMENT

Twenty Again

Release date November Directed by Lee Eon-hee Starring Uhm Ji-won, Gong Hyo-jin Distributed by Megabox Plus M

Release date November 3 Directed by Park Heung-sik Starring Kim Seung-woo, Lee Tae-ran Distributed by N/A

Working mother Ji-sun is in an extremely stressful situation - she is currently proceeding with a divorce against a negligent husband, working full time, and raising daughter Da-eun alone. To cope with the pressure, Ji-sun hires child-carer Hanmae to watch over Da-eun…however, one day they both disappear, leaving Ji-sun alone to track down her missing daughter.

When director Min-gu travels to Turin to serve on a film festival jury, destiny sees him cross paths with first love Min-ha again. With chemistry immediately re-sparking between them, they agree to relive their youth by traveling around the country together. As they tour famous landmarks discussing art and philosophy, Min-gu and Min-ha rekindle a love they thought long gone. Twenty Again appears to have been heavily influenced by Richard Linklater’s Before trilogy, with the film following a couple as their relationship deepens and love blossoms while on vacation in the gorgeous locales of Italy. It’s a charming film and one that takes a mature approach in exploring relationships as it encapsulates many of the issues faced by people as they reach middle age. Actors Kim Seung-woo and Lee Tae-ran provide adept performances that make the film a touching tale of romance.

Did you know? Gong Hyo-jin is one of the most consistently popular actresses in Korea. Initially moving to Australia to pursue dreams of working in the world of fashion, she returned to Korea and starred in revered K-horror Memento Mori (1999), which launched her career in film and television.

Vanishing Time: A Boy Who Returned Release date November Directed by Eom Tae-hwa Starring Kang Dong-won, Sin Eun-soo Distributed by Showbox/Mediaplex

JFantasy drama Vanishing Time: A Boy Who Returned tells the story of 13-year-old youngsters Sung-min and Soo-rin, who take a trip into a forest and become lost. A search party is launched but only Soo-rin is found. Yet bizarrely a few days later, Sung-min emerges from a mountain cave as a fully grown adult, and teaming up with Soo-rin, the duo must try to understand what happened and reverse the situation so they can return to a normal life.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Missing

Did you know? Child actress Sin Eun-soo, who plays Soo-rin, competed with 300 other actresses for the role and, despite having little experience, was chosen for the part.

Film fans - remember to check The Korean Film Council (KOFIC) website regularly for updates on English subtitled screenings of Korean films occurring in Seoul. www.koreanfilm.or.kr/jsp/schedule/subtitMovie.jsp

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Did you know? Twenty Again premiered at the Busan International Film Festival in 2015 in the Korean Cinema Panorama program.

Key Korean and International films fresh out of the fest Story by Simon McEnteggart and Liam Ring Photos by Busan International Film Festival

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

The Bacchus Lady |

The Age of Shadows | Country: South Korea | Director: Kim Jee-woon Teaming with Warner Bros. for their first Korean language film, superstar director Kim Jee-woon returns to cinema screens with spy noir-thriller The Age of Shadows. Set during the Japanese occupation of Korea in the 1930s, Age of Shadows follows a band of independence fighters attempting to smuggle explosives and the Japanese police officers sent to track them down - yet everyone involved seems to have their own agenda. From the moment it begins, it becomes quite clear that Age of Shadows is a visually stunning achievement, featuring some of the most incredible set designs and production values in the history of Korean cinema. Occupation-era Korea, as well as 1930s Shanghai, are gorgeously realized and immersive worlds of intrigue and betrayal, while the ever-reliable Song Kang-ho provides yet another charming and humanistic performance for a character that in other hands could have been one-dimensional. Yet the drama stutters when it comes to the narrative, with weak characterization and a very nationalistic story - complete with stereotypical black-clad, inherently evil Japanese antagonists - that undermines much of what the film is attempting to achieve. That said, it’s a solid and entertaining piece of cinema despite the fact it doesn’t reach the classic noir heights of The Third Man, from which so much inspiration was clearly taken.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

BIFF 2016 Reviews

Country: South Korea | Director: E J-yong

Independent film Coffee Mate depicts the story of ordinary housewife In-yeong, who wiles away her days with yoga lessons and reading in a quiet cafe. By chance, she meets local carpenter Hui-su and, to avoid any misunderstandings, they agree to be “coffee mates” - only meeting at the café and never contacting each other via phone. As In-yeong and Hui-su meet more frequently, they begin to share their secrets and stories, their relationship developing into something more. The romance genre is perilously difficult to get right largely due to the abundance of associated clichés, which makes it all the more satisfying when a potent love story arrives. Coffee Mate is such a film - it’s a charming and tender tale of love, one that doesn’t shy away from the realities of modern romance, with a story that will make even cynical audience members wish to fall in love again. Seemingly taking inspiration from classic romance Brief Encounter, Coffee Mate moves at a slow and subtle pace in organically developing the central relationship into a wholly believable connection, one that refreshingly leaves sex out of the equation to focus on the ties that bind. Interestingly, writer/director Yi Hyun-ha also examines the culture of marriage in Korea as a means of elevating class over happiness, a timely feature given the contemporary rise in divorce rates.

Coffee Mate |

Country: South Korea | Director: Yi Hyun-ha

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ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com November 2016 40

Boys in the Trees |

Country: Australia | Director: Nicolas Verso

Hounds of Love |

Country: Australia | Director: Ben Young

First time Australian director Nicolas Verso delivers a slight coming-of-age tale with all the trappings of late-nineties American culture. It is Halloween 1997 and introspective Corey and his mates take an evening off studying for finals, skateboarding and bullying geeks to hang out in a graveyard and drink to their hearts content. Petty arguments splinter the group, leaving Corey to reconnect with former friend Jonah on a night that bears all the typical hallmarks of a watershed in their young lives. But will they have a chance to right some past wrongs before the night is over? Verso’s youthful drama contains undercurrents of fantasy and horror while the soundtrack brims with 90’s nostalgia courtesy of Marilyn Manson, Rammstein, Bush and the Presidents of the United States of America. Verso definitely has an eye for style, though the overtly American trappings (perhaps a nod to Corey’s own wish fulfilment) mean you will probably completely forget you are watching a film from Down Under.

Perth in 1987 is clearly a more innocent time, with teenage girls at ease accepting lifts from complete strangers. Opening thus set, it can come of little surprise when Young’s debut feature turns into a thriller with more than a nod to classics such as Silence of the Lambs. Rebellious Vicki (Asheligh Cummings) sneaks out one night to attend a friend’s party. Lured to the home of Evelyn (Emma Booth) and John (Stephen Curry), she finds herself at the mercy of the couple’s games with the countdown to her death approaching at increasing speed. Can she set the pair off against each other in order to secure her escape? A tense and at times quite disturbing thriller, Young gives his Bonnie and Clyde the space to portray a couple as much on the brink of annihilation as their victim is. Evelyn is desperate to get her kids back and willing to do anything her partner asks to help to secure this, while John – one of the most banally creepy characters seen on film in some years - uses her neuroses and neediness to get whatever he wants from her. Think Neighbors meets Prisoner Cellblock H and Wolfcreek.

The Girl with all the Gifts

Wandering | Country: Thailand

Country: United Kingdom | Director: Colm McCarthy

Experienced Thai director Boomsong Nakphoo explores Buddhism in his drama of a bereaved man (Yasaka Chaisorn) trying to come to terms with his son’s death and the subsequent failure of his marriage without seeking solace at the bottom of a bottle. A chance meeting with a Buddhist monk leads to a spiritual, physical and mental pilgrimage for Chaisorn as he faces the at times harsh living conditions required to be an ascetic while also encountering temptations along the way. The director himself has highlighted that this is not a feature for everyone, with some scenes lasting several minutes in which very little happens. The majority of the conflict in the film is inner in nature, with much time spent meditating, walking, eating and praying (and most of this in silence). Made on a shoestring budget with ex-students of his as the crew, the film was only shown in one theatre in Bangkok before released on Youtube with English subtitles.

YA meets Zombie Apocalypse in this British adaptation of M.R. Carey’s dystopian novel of the same name. Most of humanity has been wiped out by a fungal infection leaving survivors holed up at a number of army bases dotted around the country. Youngster Melanie (Sennia Nanua) strikes up a close relationship with teacher Helen Justineau (Gemma Arterton) but what will become of the survivors when the ‘hungrys’ break through the gates? Made for a meagre budget of £4 million pounds, the movie eschews big effects CGI in favor of a more gritty 28 Days Later style affair. With acting chops supplied by the likes of Paddy Considine and Glenn Close, the film goes for substance with a definitive spin from the usual zombie thrillers, even if the road movie style second half is something we have seen before.

| Director: Boonsong Nakphoo

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com November 2016 42

Reviving a community through hip-hop Part Time Cooks places the spotlight on the Korean underground, hoping to help build a stronger, more international scene Story by Emma Kalka Photos by Clayton Jones

“M

aybe the headline could be ‘Soju is cool and all, but be sure you’re doing something while you’re drinking it,’” jokes Saul Goode as he sits at a table outside a convenience store in the heart of Kondae’s Chinatown district. It is just one of many quips that has passed between him and Part Time Cooks partner Black Moss in the past hour. After a round of laughter and a few more jabs, Black Moss returns to the original topic at hand, saying the two are hoping to do what other foreign acts in Korea have yet to fully accomplish. “If you look at us, we’re just this South African guy and this American guy in South Korea. You can’t tell me that there is someone before that came and did hip-hop music the way that we are doing it and trying to take it to the level that we are taking it to,” he said. In just the two short years since the Part

Time Cooks debuted, they have striven to push themselves to work harder and go farther, to create an international underground scene based in South Korea by bringing together local artists and foreign artists. They’ve also released two full-length albums this year alone, opened for American rapper Anderson Paak, and thrown a series of parties known as Stove Top Sessions over a year that turns club Secret Society into a packed house every month. They’ve worked with several local artists, building up a special relationship in particular with crew Vismajor, and hope to collaborate with even more local artists. They have also managed to bring in two international acts to perform in Korea at Stove Top Sessions – North Carolina rapper Well$ in September and New York rapper J-Live in October – with plans to host another show on Dec. 3 with New Yorker Koncept. Black Moss says the decision to start bringing in acts from overseas was just a nat-

Since working together, we’ve really pushed each other and grown our passion to [where] nothing is impossible. We can have a career in another country as rap artists. We can bring international acts to South Korea. ural next step as they built up the Stove Top Sessions brand. They had been doing the series for a year, inviting local artists to perform, and wanted to take it to the next level. “There came a time when we had to step it up and make the party different. And give our followers something new. So obviously the next step is to bring in international guests,” he says. “And then we thought, okay, well this is the lane we should take. Bring some international acts and really start an underground international hip-hop culture.” Usually when foreign acts come to Korea, they only perform at large concerts or festivals, but back home there are many up-andcoming artists that perform in clubs, creating a different atmosphere in which to enjoy hip-hop. They hope to bring that underground vibe to Korea, which will also make their parties bigger and better for the audience. Luckily for the two, they have the help of whisky maker Jameson, who sponsors the Stove Top Sessions. Saul adds that other clubs had been resistant to showcasing artists that weren’t as wellknown out of fear that no one would know

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

tional guests at Stove Top Sessions and a web series showing a funnier, weirder side of the duo called “Arena” – or “Ass Arena,” as Black Moss likes to joke – the sky is the limit. “Since working together, we’ve really pushed each other and grown our passion to [where] nothing is impossible. We can have a career in another country as rap artists. We can bring international acts to South Korea,” Black Moss said. “We can open up for Anderson Paak,” Saul immediately adds. He later commented that they hope to bring up-and-coming local brands with them as well, using Stove Top Sessions as a venue to show off cool sets by others. “I’d really like there to be a scene where all of these amazing people doing awesome s**t in Seoul are all doing it at one place. And hopefully… our parties are one of the places where we can get their stuff seen, and work together and be around people with good ideas,” he says. Stove Top Sessions is next set to take place at Secret Society in Hongdae on Dec. 3. To find out more about Part Time Cooks, be sure to follow them on Facebook.

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

a strong message. PTC said it was mainly the brainchild of director Rory, but his vision fit with the lyrics of the song, which portray the two asking their girlfriends for a threesome. Black Moss said the video follows the theme of men trying to get women drunk to make it home with them. Though instead of using actual actresses, the two act out various scenarios with inflatable sex dolls. “We think we’re in control, but really by the end of the video you realize – the point of the video – is that actually, the women are in control,” he says. “Our own ego makes us think that we are deciding what gets to happen before you hook up with someone, but really, it shouldn’t be that way. And it isn’t.” They both admit they had some reservations about traipsing around the streets of Ansan – the shoot’s location – with the dolls, in that people would misconstrue what was going on. However, they were lucky enough to have only had one bad encounter throughout the entire 30-hour shoot, which took place over the course of a single weekend. So what is coming up for Part Time Cooks? Besides a few collaborations, more interna-

them. So they saw a space where they could step in and bring over artists that are just about to blow up overseas or underground legends for smaller, less expensive shows. Their first with Well$ was a success, which just pushed the two to keep going forward. “The whole vibe, the thing that I really like that Blessing (Black Moss) and I have going [is that] he’s from South Africa and I’m from the States, and we’re an international hip-hop collective. I feel like it’s only right for us to try and branch out and share the love of this amazing scene that we have out here with people from back home,” he says. That drive also pushes them in their music. The two released full-length albums Bakers’ Dozen and 7:30 this year, with the latter dropping in July and featuring several guests including Nucksal from Vismajor on the track “Smash Town.” The Korean rapper also appeared in the music video, which the two say they appreciated considering his busy schedule. So far “Smash Town” is the only track from the album to have a video – though they are currently working on one for “7:30” – but it packs quite a punch, using humor to convey

www.groovekorea.com November 2016 Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Legendary band talks about secret to longevity

A moment with Boohwal Story by Emma Kalka Photos by Juda

said he goes with his gut. “I don’t have a set guideline. It’s usually just a feeling, the right feeling. It’s very seldom that we have auditions. We just follow the feelings and then we work together,” he said matter-of-factly. “We don’t look for people who are already famous to be a part of the band.” Even though Boohwal enjoys continued success today, racking up many hits thanks in large part to Kim Tae-won’s skilful song writing, he confessed they still have some of the same struggles. They are currently working on their 14th full-length album, but are having a “very hard time” completing it, he said. “It’s not easy.” But they are all working together, putting in their all to create a work of art. Kim says many of his own experiences from the past and present, along with the people he’s met, give him inspiration when creating music. And as with any pioneer band in the industry, Kim had advice for new bands hoping to gain the same success as Boowhal: “Just do music in an honest way. Be crazy with the music. That’s when you have the right to do music.”

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

right lights. High-tech graphics displays. Screaming fans. Fireworks. Confetti. One might almost think they had landed in the middle of a K-pop concert. Looking closer at the stage, there is no 10-member girl group or a pack of young men in snazzy outfits. There is no hip-hop-infused beat or synchronized dancing. It’s guitar riffs, drum sets and rugged musicians that look as though they’ve lived life. For epic rock band Boohwal, it’s just another moment in the spotlight in a career that has spanned three decades so far. They are old hands on stage, and the cheers and screams from the audience – usually a mix of young and old – testify to the band’s ability to still get the crowd going. The group recently performed at the rock edition of MBC’s 2016 DMC Festival on October 9 alongside artists such as No Brain, YB, Kim Just do music in Bada and even former Boohwal an honest way. Be crazy with singer Kim Jong-seo. But before the music. That’s they took to the stage in that when you have the concert, which was broadcast on right to do music. October 13, they took a moment - Kim Tae-won to talk about their past and what guitarist has kept them going all these years. Sitting amongst such legends can be both awe-inspiring and nerve-wracking. With some of the members, leader and guitarist Kim Tae-won included, donning their signature sunglasses even indoors, they gave off a definite air of rock stars. Though once they began speaking, there was an easy-goingness and old camaraderie that quickly spread to the through the hard times that followed. rest of the room, something that could only re“We think it’s more important to have sult from 31 years together. those feelings and memories when we are Kim admitted that from the beginning he down. When we were down, going back in our didn’t expect to be in the music industry quite memories, I think it’s more precious. When evthis long. At first he was just passionate about eryone was trying to work hard,” he said. music. But he believes it is that passion that led For drummer Chae Je-min, one of those to his and Boohwal’s long career. Bassist Seo precious memories was when they went on Jae-hyuk added that in the beginning, back tour in the U.S. three or four years ago. in the 80s, they weren’t all that welcomed by “We were quite surprised we had so many music fans. sold out shows,” he said with a chuckle. “Instead of being hardcore, we chose to After some wrangling from the older take a more family approach to the audience members, singer Kim Dong-myung then shyly and that’s when we got a lot of response and confessed that just being in the band was his love from the audience,” he said. The music most treasured experience. scene is still changing and instead of just fol“I’ve been in Boohwal for about two years lowing trends, he believes it is better for bands and being able to perform with such cool muto make sure they have the right connection sicians, seniors who have paved the way, and with the audience. standing on stage with them is precious to “That’s a key direction for the Korean rock me,” he said. He added that even though the scene to be heading in,” Seo concluded. rest of the band had been together for decades, Over the past three decades, the band has it was relatively easy for him to blend in, he had its ups and downs, Kim then continued just had to have the right mindset. in his trademark raspy voice. But once they It helps that when choosing a new vocalist found success, they were able to look back – so far Boohwal has had 10, the most famous on that happiness in order to help them get of whom is Lee Seung-chul – Kim Tae-won

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Beginner’s Guide to E-Sports in Seoul Everything you need to know to get you to base level Story by Rob Shelley Photos by Robert Evans

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

ast year’s NBA Finals saw LeBron James beat Steph Curry’s record-breaking 73-win Warriors in a historic seventh game which drew over 31 million viewers, the most for an NBA Finals in 18 years. Just nine months before, a PC game called League of Legends (LOL) held their championship and drew a record 36 million viewers. Giant e-sports tournaments regularly outperform both the NBA Finals and World Series in viewership — and most people have no idea. E-sports seem like a niche industry, but the numbers tell a different story. The viewership is huge; most of it online through websites like Twitch.tv, but with TV networks like ESPN testing the waters. Amazon just bought Twitch for roughly $1 billion and traditional sports teams, athletes, and executives are be-

ginning to invest. This year’s The International, a big DOTA 2 competition in Seattle, awarded over $20 million in prizes.

What are E-Sports? Electronic sports first took off right here in South Korea about twenty years ago with the emergence of the ubiquitous PC Bang (PC 방 or PC Room), around the same time that a company called Blizzard released the game Starcraft. The Korean gaming community took to Starcraft unlike anywhere else in the world and set the table for today’s e-sports phenomenon. Now there are numerous games available to play competitively online. Riot Games’ League of Legends (LOL) is currently the most popular, but there’s a myriad of other titles, each with their own subcultures.

But it is fair to call it a sport? How one answers this question can reveal a lot about how much they know about e-sports. E-sports Event Coordinator Eliot Miller, from ToBeGosu.com, thinks that competitors should be classified as athletes because they train and live like athletes. “They'll have team houses where [they] will live and practice together, as well as having a personal chef… there's even fitness instructors for some teams that come in and do workshops for them.” An avid LOL gamer I met with here in Seoul, Dan Cornwell, echoed Eliot’s feelings. “My favorite team, TSM, train 14 hours a day, six days a week. I don't mean they're sitting in front of a computer clicking; I mean they're going to the gym in the morning, then they go home and play three hours of games, then they sit with their team and analyze their

outside Seoul National University station. PC Bangs can be daunting for a newcomer. Dan found two friends, Moon Sungdok and Lee Sora, who showed him how to get a PC Bang account and log-in to play the game. E-Sports in Seoul And I found the three of them on Meetup.com. Seoul is undoubtedly the Mecca of e-sports Without that support, one must rely on Google and South Koreans still dominate many of the Translate and saintly patience. games. This in due to Korea’s blazing internet I wanted to learn how to play League of speeds, the PC Bang culture, and Korea’s comLegends myself, but Dan was petitive spirit. hesitant. "Here's how you learn A recent survey from the I was just on BBC,” LOL: you play for a year and you Korea Creative Content Agency Tasteless told me, get wrecked every single day. suggests that almost 40% of Ko“and you can just Doesn't that sound fun? I'm surreans play some form of online tell that they're prised you haven't heard anyone game. South Korea was the first so caught up in, yelling swear words in here." country to broadcast e-sports on like, ‘Is this really “It sounds ridiculous,” added television and they still have the a thing?’ when Sunghok, “but you should study best competitors, studios, and it's so very much [laughs]. And you need to have commentators (known as “casta thing. What's some endurance. Korean people ers”) in the world today. strange is that are really competitive." “In Seoul, there's a duo called it's already bigger But it’s that competitiveness Nick Plott and Dan Stemkoski than a lot of that draws gamers here from who are known by their aliases sports that are in around the world. If you want Tasteless and Artosis,” said Elthe mainstream. to test yourself against the best iot. “They are regarded widely in of the best, Dan explains to me, the e-sports world as the greatest you need to be here to play on the Korean commentators. And even if you don't follow servers. [Starcraft], they are hilarious.” “The pulse of e-sports is what people are Nick “Tasteless” Plott has made himself a playing in PC Bangs.” comfortable living, and earned a level of fame, by being an entertaining expert in Starcraft. And that probably couldn’t happen anywhere What next? else in the world today. If you’re an expat who is curious to find out “One advantage that Korea more, Tasteless recommends you check out has over the rest of the world,” a PC Bang or a live stream on Twitch first. If Tasteless says, “is that there's just you get excited seeing row after row of serious a ton of great gamers in Seoul. So gamers, or enjoy the commentary and compeyou can run [an e-sports] studio tition of the world’s best on a live stream, then pretty effectively because everyget up close by checking out a live event. one's in the neighborhood.” If you’re a tourist and want to check out Although Seoul is the nexus the playing live, you have to dig. Search Redof e-sports, with the best English dit, GOMTV, or OGN Global. Luckily, most commentators, trying to find of the studios are free to attend and GOMTV information on an event in Koeven offers English-language headsets. rea can be daunting if you don’t And if you’re still skeptical about e-sports, understand Korean. In that one you’re not alone… yet. way, here in Seoul, the e-sports “I was just on BBC,” Tasteless told me, “and world is not so much different you can just tell that they're so caught up in, than the rest of the world. like, ‘Is this really a thing?’ when it's so very much a thing. “What's strange is that it's already bigPC Banging ger than a lot of sports that are in the main"My advice would be to stream.” learn Korean or get to know a Korean." Dan Cornwell says OGN E-sport Stadium this while playing LOL at his add 31 Maebongsan-ro, Sangam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul favorite PC Bang: a clean, Nexon Arena spacious basement room with add 54 Seocho-daero 77-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul wood paneling and tons of GOMTV Studio (GSL) high-end gaming PCs right add 997-4, Daechi-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com November 2016 47

Rob Shelley is a freelance writer and editor who writes about beer, culture, MMA, and more. Check out his work at www.coldcalc.com

ENTERTAINMENT

games, then they play three more hours, [analyze] again, and then play three more hours.... Korean teams are worse."

Substitute mothers Filipina nannies in South Korea

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

i n s i g h t

Story by Barbara Bierbrauer Photos by Lorenzo Corti and Steve Smith

The household and childcare duties had to be transferred to a paid workforce, significantly increasing the demand for Filipina nannies and housekeepers.

A family away from the family There are two ways to employ Filipinas as domestic helpers: “live in” or “live out”. As the wording suggests, it depends on whether or not the nanny stays at the house of her employers or not. Live-in nannies are paid less as they have no housing expenses and earn from KRW 800,000 to KRW 1,500,000 a month. Live-out nannies have more freedom and more independence but have to pay for housing themselves, earning KRW 1,400,000 to KRW 2,000,000 a month. According to Nam-Kook Kim's “Multicultural Challenges and Redefining Identity in East Asia,” the salary of Filipinas in South Korean factories range between KRW 900,000 and KRW 1,200,000 a month. Those working as nannies and housekeepers are paid more for a physically easier job, thus making employment in a factory less desirable for females. However, being a domestic helper or a nanny brings countless challenges of its own. First, there is the separation from your own family and sometimes your own children. Jene (name changed) has two kids, 6 and 14, at home, and is taking care of a Korean girl of

i n s i g h t

From the very beginning, all Filipina housekeepers and nannies entered the country legally. Before flying to Incheon International Airport, they would obtain a visa, any visa – it could be a family, tourist or working visa. The labor law states that a domestic helper from the Philippines should be paid at least KRW 1.5 million per month and receive 14 days of vacation every year. The reality often looks different. Theoretically, a foreign worker of legal status is protected by Korean legislation, but there is a lack of interest from the authorities tasked with overseeing the living and working conditions of Filipinas in these families, as well as a lack of interest in law enforcement if a Filipina accuses their employer of paying her less then legally required. “The family I worked gave me the days off”, Eds tells, “but they would not pay me for that. Also, when they went on vacation, they did not pay me.” Eds experience is not an exception. Sponsoring a visa gives the employer some additional control over the nanny. Some employers who sponsor the visa pay their Filipina housekeepers and nannies an hourly wage of under KRW 4000. Underpayment often leads some Filipinas to move into illegal work. Because a visa obliges the women to work for a certain employer, they gain freedom of choice by not having one. The social media, church communities and personal contacts are of great help and support. Although it does not always work out well. Eds remembers: “I was working for a wealthy Korean family. After I worked for 2 weeks and asked for payment, the lady of the house become angry at me, accused me of lying and made me leave without paying me anything”. Although illegal workers are supposed to be protected in same way that legal workers are, only a few would risk taking legal action against a crooked employer, fearing deportation. Even if the employer is trustworthy, the problems facing illegal workers do not end; for example, the Korean Immigration Service makes regular raids in order to catch illegal

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

According to the Philippine Department of Labor and Employment, there are 54,437 Filipinos residing in South Korea, including 12,364 illegal workers (i.e., one in every four). While other countries like Thailand and Vietnam are reaching new levels of development as newly industrialized economies (NIEs), the Philippines have stalled due to countless internal issues. However, the comparatively high educational standards in the country, plus the English that is taught at schools as their second official language, has opened new doors for its citizens, enabling them to work as semi-educated staff in sectors controlled by developed nations or where the English language is required. Filipinos have almost monopolized the crews on international ships and are highly desired as domestic or construction workers. The economy of the Philippines also depends on the income that its citizens generate overseas. Over the years, it has helped to create a very positive and proud image of migrant workers, backed by the experiences of meeting returnees who are able to acquire (by Philippine economic standards) relatively high wealth. Migrant work abroad was initially dominated by males until the 90s, when a socio-economical switch took place in countries like South Korea. Korean women started working or, after marrying and giving birth to their children, going back to work. The household and childcare duties had to be transferred to a paid workforce, significantly increasing

How illegality follows legality

workers. What happens then can be humiliating. Maria (name changed), who has experienced deportation from South Korea, shares her experience: “I was at a shopping center, and as I went out to the street, 5 or 6 Korean men surrounded me and asked for my papers. I was so confused and terrified, I told them that I am tourist, but out of confusion spoke Korean to them. They [realized] that I am not a tourist, but [have been] staying in Korea for a longer time”. As Maria could not present any documents, she was put on the bus, and transported to a prison facility; three days later, wearing handcuffs, she was transferred to Incheon Airport, where a flight to Manila had been arranged for her. Maria was one of many illegal workers deported from the country. Surprisingly, the situation has seemed to change. The President of Friends of All Nations Church, Mr. David C. Jun explains: “At the beginning, the immigration police were very active, and used to deport many people. But now they understand that it is bad for business – new people have to be hired, and they have to learn, for maybe a half or a whole year before they can fulfill their duties.” So unless someone calls the Immigration Office and turns in a person or a company, immigration officers are becoming less active in searching for illegal workers.

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Filipinos in South Korea

the demand for Filipina nannies and housekeepers in the country.

he South Korean government should consider a special advertising budget for people like Eds and Eric. The young couple from Calabarzon in the Philippines pose proudly in front of a newly built villa, with a happy baby in their arms and a brand-new Ford by their side. They emanate the self-satisfaction, wealth and happiness that anybody their age with their achievements should feel. Proud parents and entrepreneurs, they represent the dream of oversea workers who return home from South Korea well-off. “We did everything right”, Eds says. “It was a long and hard way, but we are happy now”. For many years, she took care of foreign children and households, all the while laying the groundwork for her own company.

i n s i g h t Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com November 2016 50

7. “It is difficult for me every day” she says. “The girl I take care off is at a similar age as my own daughter, and when I watch her, how she learns, plays and speaks, I have to think about my own daughter. I will never experience how she grows and it makes me very sad”. But Jene is confident that the money she saves and sends home will enable her children to have a better education and better chances for the future. Interaction with the children, even putting aside the possible language barrier, also has significant potential for conflict. Maria remembers that in her first family, the child threw a heavy building block in her face and injured her. She was shocked when the parents just shrugged their shoulders and ignored the mischievous behavior without any consequences. When the child repeatedly kicked her, she understood that it was time to change families. Maria was lucky with her second employer, finding respect and appreciation for the work she was doing. For live-in nannies, it can be difficult to find the proper role and position within a family. Are you treated as a family member or as a

paid employee? For both sides, the employers and the employee, this aspect is challenging and requires patience, respect, and dignity. There is also the question of how to treat the host family’s children. Filipinas face differences in how children are raised in South Korea; the cultural differences are immense, with children in wealthy families (i.e., those families that can afford a nanny) are sometimes treated like little kings and queens. Eds has some memories to share: “When I first started to work in the family, the girl did not listen to me at all. She used to scream at me, did not want to behave. I played a lot with her and slowly she started liking me, we became good friends.” Mrs. Sung-ohk Jun from the Friends of All Nations Church states that, from her experience with migrant workers, “Culture is the biggest challenge that the people are facing in South Korea. Our way of living [and] language is so much different, it makes living and adjusting very difficult.” Because of that, some Filipinas choose to work for American, Canadian or European families. Although cultural differences still exist, the language barrier is absent, making adaption easier for both sides.

It was a long and hard way, but we are happy now.

Earning and saving A legally employed nanny has no difficulties in opening a bank account and sending her savings home. It starts to get tricky when the status changes. “When I was legal”, Eds explains “I opened accounts in five different banks. After my visa expired, I could still use the bank accounts and save the money.” But besides the banks, there are multiple other ways of sending money, like Western Union, which has a representative in nearly every Philippine village, or travelers who personally deliver the money to the families. Eds and her husband tried to save as much as they could. “Many Filipinas send all they can home to their families, who spend the money happily. When they finally get home they sometimes find out that all the money they earned and saved was spent, and they have to start anew”. She chose a different way. “We did not send much money home; we saved everything, only sending some gifts for birthdays or Christmas”. Their saving has paid

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www.groovekorea.com November 2016

116 Yanghwa-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul 02-324-2525 seoulpenn5901@gmail.com Weekdays 10am-6pm / Sat 10am-1pm Evening hours available by appointment

off – after coming back with respectable funds, Eds and Eric were able to start a construction business. But their success story seems to be more of an exception than the rule. “It is difficult [for migrant workers] to save enough money in South Korea”, Mrs. Jun explains. “The salaries are low but the living expenses are high.” People have difficulty with medical expenses and are vulnerable if the employer does not pay their salary on time. The Friends for All Nations have 35 branches all over South Korea and offer much needed support to migrant workers and imported brides. Once a week, a dentist provides free care to those who cannot afford it. A doctor also comes, offering the possibility of free medication. Also, for those who have lost their accommodation, a shelter provides a couple of rooms where those in trouble can stay for a few days or weeks. The church also helps with legal issues, providing free counseling and sometimes collecting donations for surgery or childbirth. “But it is not enough”, Mr. Jun says. “There are around 500 centers similar to ours in South Korea. If every single one helps 100 people, it equates to 50,000 [people helped]. But there are around 2 million migrant workers in South Korea, and many are in need.” Decades ago, South Korea itself was a source of migrants, but since the late 80s, the demand for foreign workers has been rising and is forecast to rise more, with the domestic labor force too expensive and Koreans not willing to take low-wage positions. Increased protection for migrant workers should therefore be brought to the attention of the Korean public and the authorities.

Philly Feelings Served at American MOOD

with select sides. Quality french fries, thick cut and crisp with just the right amount of salt, that pair perfectly with cheese whiz and chili. Mac and cheese featuring a hint of paprika. And thick cut Canadian bacon. They have wings, too. Options to fill the hungriest stomachs. Let’s talk about the cheesesteaks. The first cheesesteak recommended by American MOOD’s on-the-ball server was the provolone—the classic cheesesteak. It’s a variation that’s nearly a hundred years old. American MOOD’s version is packed full of beef and provolone with just enough sauteed onions to comThe Bacon Bomb: pliment the sandwich. The next the name says it Story by Jason Newland Photos by Steve Smith all. A cheesesteak sandwich the server put on the table was the Bronx—an updated with bacon. It’s a take on Philly cheesesteaks with pairing made for your dirtiest food obvious ties to the pizza scene of NYC. Some Americans would dreams. call it a pizza steak. Yes, this Philly features stretchy white cheese and tomato sauce with a pile of beef and grilled onions and peppers. It’s possibly the perfect meal for someone who cannot or does not want to choose between a delicious sandwich and pizza—it’s a fusion worth growing fat for. Now for some observations on the other cheesesteak sandwiches, big and small. The cheese whiz is the classic for people who ate cheesesteaks from street vendors from the ‘80s forward, and this cheese whiz does not disappoint. The chemical orange color certainly scares some people, but instead should be seen as a beacon of deliciousness. Cheese whiz combines perfectly with the steak and onions and adds a burst of flavor to a Philly that’s hard to match. Other gut-busting options include the Little Italy, a pizza cheesesteak, and The Bacon Bomb: the name says it all. A cheesesteak with bacon. It’s a pairing made for your dirtiest food dreams. south of the Han River; but one place, Amerhe cheesesteak is old, it was created American MOOD is making legit Philly ican MOOD, is raising the bar by stuffing the way back in the 1930s by a hot dog cheesesteaks. There are no wrong choices on city’s closest approximation to amoroso rolls vendor who wanted something new their menu, so choose by intuition, choose full of steak, cheeses, and sauteed onions and for lunch. He decided to cook up slivers of by institution, choose by rolling a die, choose peppers. They’re doing multiple variations of steak and onions and then shove them into a blind, choose classic, choose new—it won’t one thing, cheesesteaks, and they’re doing hotdog bun. One of his regulars, a taxi driver, matter, because sandwich satisfaction will folthem well. saw the sandwich and ordered one for himself, low. American MOOD is offering seven cheese and after the driver fell in love with the sandPrices Cheesesteaks KRW 9,000-10,000, Sides KRW steaks: cheese whiz, white American, the wich he told the shop owner he should give up 3,000-5,000, A Whole Lotta Fries KRW 8,000-12,000, Bronx, garlic parmer, Little Italy, provolone, on the hot dog business and serve steak sandWings and Canadian Bacon KRW 10,000-12,000. and bacon bomb. Count them: seven. Seven wiches full time. Recommended dishes: the Provolone for purists delicious cheesesteaks, one for each day of the Later on, the vendor had a moment of geand the Cheese Whiz for the new breed of purists, chili week, which is convenient since they’re offernius and added provolone cheese to the sandcheese fries as a welcome side, and Canadian bacon for due gluttony. ing one of the best lunch deals in Seoul—a free wich, and the Philly cheesesteak was born. Drinks Soda KRW 2,000-3,000. Beer KRW 5,000half order of golden fries and a soda with any Being one of America’s oldest sandwiches, 9,500. sandwich purchase made before 3 pm. The it’s surprisingly underrepresented globally, Address Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeon-dong 66-19 cheesesteaks are the foundation of American but that’s changing in Seoul. A few places are Hours Weekdays 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-11pm. MOOD, but they build upon their foundation serving above average cheesesteaks north and Saturdays 1130am-11pm. Closed on Sundays.

Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Sliced Steak and Cheese on Close Approximations of Amoroso Rolls, Oh My!

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Huggers Burger Takes Root in Hannam-dong

A plant-based burger joint which poses no threat to animals or your wallet.

Story and Photos by Casey D. Mann

Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com November 2016 53

Prices burgers KRW 9,000 – 11,000, fries – KRW 4,000, smoothies – KRW 6,000 – 6,500, desserts – vegan cake is KRW 5,500; ice cr eam is KRW 3,500 Recommended dishes The recently added teriyaki burger is a very nice choice. Another good option is the basil pesto avocado burger. My vegan friends really enjoy the ice cream. Huggers has also recently added a brunch option to their menu. Drinks Huggers serves an avocado banana smoothie and another smoothie with kale, apple, and banana. There is also dutch coffee, 7Brau beer, dandelion tea, and tomato juice. Prices range from KRW 6,000 – 7,000. Add Seoul, Yongsan-Gu, Hannam-dong, 686-22 (Seoul 130-030) Phone +82 02-749-9493 Website www.huggers.biz hours Open daily from 11:30am – 10:00pm

FOOD & DRINK

is as advertised, with some tofu under the bun outh Korea offers many solid dining topped with a dab of chili. The chili, however, options. The variety in local Korean is not in a style most people would recognize dishes alone could keep most people as chili; it has the thinness and flavor sampling meals for weeks on end. When it's profile of marinara sauce. While eating time to throw a little variety into the dietary the burgers, have a fork or napkins ready. mix, Seoul's uptick in global food offerings has The patty stays together just enough to caught the attention of the rest of the world. arrive at the table intact, but then falls What seems to have been overlooked apart easily once mandible pressure is is how rarely meat is absent from popular applied while taking a bite. The burgers dishes. For a vegetarian, options are actually range in price from 9,000 - 11,000KRW, quite slim, and the lack of vegetarian-friendly which provides further incenrestaurants can pose a challenge tive to at least give it a try. when seeking something new to It might also be a good idea invigorate the taste buds. The difAlthough it doesn’t to leave room for dessert. They ficulty in seeking new places to quite adhere to the eat can pose a bigger challenge to strictest standards offer brownies and cookie cake, both of which make for a sweet vegans. Luckily, vegan residents of the most and visitors in the Itaewon/Hanrestrictive vegan and satisfying treat. The vegan ice cream is described on nam area now have another opdieting scheme, the menu as “vanilla soft serve tion in the neighborhood. it works hard to made with soy milk, coconut Tucked away on a small street juggle a balance in Hannam-dong lies Huggers between flavor and milk, organic vanilla extract, Burger. It has a humble exterior healthy alternative and organic brown sugar.” It is dining. soft and creamy, much like froand sparse interior design. The zen yogurt. menu is provided on a clipboard, Huggers Burger is a unique dinavailable to peruse while seated on light meting choice in the Itaewon/Hanal chairs, on a bare concrete floor. The interior nam area. Although it doesn’t quite is neither unpleasant nor flashy, presenting a adhere to the strictest standards of feeling of functionality and clean comfort. the most restrictive vegan dieting Huggers Burger provides a handful of scheme, it works hard to juggle a vegan burgers, fries, smoothies, and desserts. balance between flavor and healthy The menu mentions that the patty and buns alternative dining. For the meat lovare not gluten free, “but working hard to add ers out there… you need not be afraid. If that option to the menu.” Every burger has the found wandering the streets same patty, consisting of rice, minced vegein search of something tables, lentils, and other assortments, pressed new, Huggers could into a round disc which is then topped with offer a refreshing lettuce, tomato, onion, and assorted menu opchange of pace. tions. A recent addition is the teriyaki burger, which is arguably Huggers’ highlight burger. Another highlight burger is the Huggers Burger. It is their version of a classic American style burger with a patty, cheese, lettuce, tomato, and onion. Also available is a basil pesto avocado burger. They whip up a burger with fresh avocado and – pesto! – another nice burger on a plate! The tofu chili burger

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)

The Noodles of Your Life

Nagoya mazesoba will rock your world Story and photos by Jordan Redmond

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

bulky ramen noodles come topped with ou could be forgiven for thinking minced pork, garlic, green onion, fish powder, spending ninety minutes of your and thick chunks of chashu. A raw egg prelife in line waiting to eat a bowl of sides in the middle and acts as noodles would be a huge waste a bonding agent when you toss of time. However, like the roller everything together. The result coasters you so gamely waited After you polish for as a kid, a bowl of Menya off your noodles, is a bit like Japanese carbonara. The shop opens at 11am and Hanabi's Nagoya mazesoba is an order of rice an unforgettable experience, will come to help 6pm sharp. Raising its blinds and methodically inviting cusone that challenges you mentalyou dispatch the tomers inside to order from the ly and physically but will leave leftover eggy, meaty melange. ticketing machine. An L-shaped you buzzing for long after. bar seats 15. There is no other "Mazesoba" is essentially place to dine inside but, almost dry ramen, similar to jjajjangsadistically, there is an inside-waiting area myeon in it's original Chinese (see: not Kowhere you sit between ordering from the marean-Chinese) form. At Menya Hanabi, the chine and taking your place at the bar, watchSeoul outpost of the Nagoya-based shop,

ing others mix and slurp in almost reverential silence while clips from the restaurant's features on Japanese television torture you further. After you polish off your noodles, an order of rice will come to help you dispatch the leftover eggy, meaty melange. Like the parents of three ahead of you who determinedly ate their food and that of most of their offspring without as much as a word, you will have gotten the mazesoba bug and a pang of excitement will come over you (and your stomach) as you waddle out, already planning your next visit. add Songpa-gu, Songpa-dong 57 price Bowls of mazesoba between KRW 9,000-12,000 opening Hours 11am-2pm, 6pm-9pm

Foodie Files : Giovanni Tamburrini of Brera

Picking the brains behind your favorite restaurants

Story by Jordan Redmond photo courtesy of Giovanni Tamburrini

What would be on the table for your last meal? Starter: Prosciutto san daniele and mozzarella di bufala Pasta: Ravioli Ricotta e Parmigiano in Butter sage sauce Secondo Piatto: Saltimbocca alla Ro-

What was your favorite food when you were a kid? Pizza slices, the squared one typical in Rome. I could eat a thousand of them everyday. Where do you go for late night eats after the restaurant closes? My go-to joint is Brooklyn, The Burger Joint for two reasons: I like their burgers and they are open 24 hours.

FOOD & DRINK

What foods or restaurants are on your food bucket list? Since I have lived in Korea, I developed an interest, ironically, for American food. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to try real pastrami sandwiches, Chicago style pizzas and burgers, and California tacos/Mexican food.

Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)

How did you come to run a restaurant in Seoul? My first job is Professor of Law. I am currently teaching at the DIS of Hanyang. I came to Korea five years ago, hired by a business school based in Daejeon. After three years,

What's the best plate of pasta you've ever eaten in your life? Every Italian would answer the same probably: tomato sauce pasta made by grandmother who, unfortunately, is too old now to keep cooking.

mana e Patate Dessert: Tortino al cuore di cioccolato fondente (lava cake) Fruit: Peach

What are some of your favourite restaurants in Seoul? My favorite are: Buenos Aires in Sinsa-dong (Argentinian restaurant) and Downtowner in Hannam-dong (best burgers in Seoul). What's the best thing your mom made for you growing up? She separated the bones from the flesh when she prepared fish for me :), spoiling me. What food can you absolutely not eat? Strange animals or strange body parts of the animal like stomach, brain, heart, etc.

"Since I have lived in Korea, I developed an interest, ironically, for American food."

Do you cook for yourself at home? If so, what's your go-to dish(es) to cook up? I used to cook a lot, a little less since I started the restaurant. My go-to dish is the legendary tuna pasta: spaghetti with tuna (high quality canned), black and green olives, and cherry tomatoes. .

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Tell us a little about your restaurant. Brera is the very first casual Italian restaurant in Seoul. Its pillars are represented by: a) home-style food, including the exclusive use of fresh pasta b) special atmosphere, where customers are not seen just as purchasers, rather the interactions between them and the staff are a necessary part of the experience c) competitive prices, thanks to an efficient organization of the working force, we are able to offer European standard labor conditions as well as products at 20%-30% less than other competitors.

during my frequent weekend trips to Seoul I realized there was a huge gap in the Italian Restaurant market: Italian restaurants looked either extremely focused on "fine" (relatively) dining and, hence, expensive; or Koreanized versions. No restaurant offered good value product. Even the good ones, while serving good products, they were a way overpriced. Overpricing is due to lack of organizational skill. I thought it was the moment to break this equilibrium and establishing a restaurant that would raise the standards for what you pay.

an you tell us a little about yourself, where you grew up, etc.? I was born in 1982 in a small town which is 120 km south of Rome, but I was raised in Rome [which is] my current home (when I am not in Korea).

Gourmet San Francisco Bagels

Add Flavor to Seoul

Small batch, organic, sugar-free, sourdough bagels in Yeonnam-dong Story by Yoo Jin Oh photos by Robert Evans

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

s a city, Seoul is becoming more and more international every day. Just take a walk around a random neighborhood and you never know what international flavor you might stumble on. Tucked away in the alleys of Yeonnam-dong is SF Bagels, a small batch, organic, sugar-free, sourdough bagel shop. If you’re looking for a chewy, crispy alternative to the New York bagel with a slightly sour flavor, this is it. From inside of what must be Seoul’s smallest bakery, Min-sun Sung freshly bakes a daily selection of 15 different kinds of bagels each served with her homemade cream cheese. Oh, and most of her bagels are vegan as well. With all of these special aspects, the shop is refreshingly idealistic. However, there is one compromise: the bagels are just slightly less sour to accommodate for Korean

have that overwhelming choking densetastes. ness often found in other bagels. Instead it’s Opened with the desire to bake from chewy and crusty and surprisingly light. SF scratch using only healthy and natural ingreBagels offers all the classic topdients, Minsun prepares around pings from ‘everything’ to herb 100 – 150 bagels a day following & cheese, blueberry and onion, a 48-hour process. Minsun uses It really is zero sugar or commercial yeast, impossible to avoid as well as new toppings such stepping up to her as ginger & orange peel that so the process begins with her shop when the were added following customer own sourdough starter that is whole street is requests and suggestions. The then naturally fermented for over filled with scents bagel, being sugar-free, is nei20 hours to give that extra chewy of cinnamon and ther salty nor sweet, but has a texture. Then it’s a full day of freshly baked rich malty flavor complimented mixing, rising, dividing, shaping, bagels. by an assortment of toppings. re-rising, boiling, baking, and The only challenge is choosing cooling; a process she continuwhich of the cream cheeses to slather or dip ously tweaks and improves, adding her own the bagels in. distinct character to the recipes learned from Although Min-sun herself prefers a plain her time at the San Francisco Baking Institute. bagel with plain cream cheese, she suggests Her bagels, naturally fermented, don’t

Seoul! Story by Jordan Redmond photo courtesy of El Pino 323

Restaurant Buzz Odds and Ends from Seoul's Restaurant Scene

El Pino 323

Mapo-gu, Ahyeon-dong 437-3 323 - 070-8987-6248

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)

t's raining tacos! Really fantastically-made tacos. And enchiladas and jalapeno poppers and most everything else your Mexican food-loving soul desires. Chef D, who has developed a cult following thanks to his countless Itaewon pop-ups, has finally opened his own restaurant. El Pino 323, named after a famous tree in East LA, is mostly a take-out joint but walk-ups are welcomed. Prepare to get a welcoming slap from some of the finest tortillas and salsas in all of Korea. Another desirable food item to be rained from the heavens: gravy. Really, what isn't better with gravy? Oh! Poutine has landed with a leaden, starchy thud in Itaewon. Initial buzz has lauded the fries, which are apparently gravy resistant, staying not-at-all soggy amongst all that sauce. Don't miss the gravy train... which perhaps now can be another name for Line 6. In need of a good sandwich? Who isn't? Fat Cat Neighborhood Bistro welcomes the sandwich-depraved with warm, bready arms. Most noteworthy on Fat Cat's revamped menu is a take on that much beloved and whispered-about Guadalajaran sandwich, the torta ahogada, which is stuffed with pork and soaked in spicy salsa. While Fat Cat's version doesn't automatically come soaked, they'll be happy to do it for you for a measly cheon-won. A small price to pay for a lifealtering sandwich experience.

Oh, Poutine! Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-ro 20-gil 18-1 02-749-2334 Fat Cat Neighbor- Yongsan-gu, Yongsan-dong 2-ga 46 hood Bistro 02-797-2970

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Prices Bagel: KRW 2,500 – 3,000 per bagel and cream cheese for KRW 1,600, carrot cake, chocolate caramel cake: KRW 2,000, scones: KRW 2,600 – 2,800, coffee cake: KRW 4,500, cookies: KRW 3,500, cinnamon roll KRW 3,500 recommended dishes Everything bagel dipped in extra virgin olive oil or the jalapeño cheese bagel with plain cream cheese. For a slightly sweeter kick, try her famous cinnamon rolls or a plain scone topped with her orange peel cream cheese Address Mapo-gu, 29 Donggyo-ro 46-gil Hours 10AM to 9PM (Every day except Tuesday) Instagram @sfbagels

trying the ‘everything bagel paired with chili flakes in extra virgin olive oil’. For a bagel with a spicy kick, go for the jalapeno cheese bagel with either the jalapeno or olive cream cheese. The cream cheese is light with a delicacy that doesn’t so much overwhelm but add to every mouthful. Even the slightly unconventional ginger & orange peel bagel manages to balance the tangy and sweet flavor of the candied orange peel with the fragrant kick of ginger. It’s almost impossible to limit your choice to just one bagel, after all they are a bit smaller than traditional ones and actually healthy. Even though Min-sun tries to underplay her sweeter baked goods and keep the shop focused on her bagels, the smaller batch of scones, coffee-cakes, cookies, and cinnamon rolls are quickly gaining their own fans. Her scones in particular are beautifully moist and much lighter than your usual scone, making it a perfect companion to her sweeter cream cheese. Not surprisingly, it’s her decadent sourdough cinnamon rolls that always sell out. The sourdough cinnamon rolls at SF Bagels, unlike the traditional egg and buttery, heavy version, is egg-free with minimum yeast (<0.2%) and butter added. The end result is less weighty and bursting with flavors of malt and cinnamon. It really is impossible to avoid stepping up to her shop when the whole street is filled with scents of cinnamon and freshly baked bagels. Even without a proper nameplate, SF Bagels is slowly but surely gaining a devoted fan base. It might not yet be an institution in the neighborhood but, judging by the smiles on the customers faces, it’s definitely a blessing disguised as a bagel. Minsun, from time to time, takes suggestions for new toppings from her customers. Her funniest one yet? A one-off batch of seaweed & cheese bagel, made especially for a long time patron, that pairs beautifully with a glass of beer. SF Bagels is open from 10 AM to 9 PM every day except on Tuesday, so make sure you drop in for a visit the next time you’re in the neighborhood for the perfect morning pick-me-up.

CR8 Cookies

Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

So, that's how the cookie crumbles... Story and photos by Andy Hume

utesy dessert and sweet shops are ten-a-penny in the Gyeongnidan area, so you'd be forgiven for thinking that CR8 Cookies, with its hipster name and funky space just off the main road up to the Hyatt, is just another new attempt to siphon off cash from some of the many weekenders who crowd these streets on a Saturday afternoon. In fact, American-educated owner, Elly Lee, has created a near-miracle of a shop in this small alleyway: a bakery, delivery shop and cafe rolled into one, and it's taking the local foreigner community in particular by storm. The concept is simple - fresh cookies in seven or eight flavors, from chocolate chip to sinful PB&J or Nutella-stuffed creations - but the execution is almost perfect. Made with premium ingredients like unbleached flour and Belgian chocolate, the cookies are just the right size - not too big, not too small - and with prices starting at 1,900 won each, they won’t make a dent in your wallet. Whether your waistline will be equally unscathed is a separate question because these cookies are insanely addictive, and there’s zero chance you’ll leave

Beer of the Month

after only one. A winning strategy is to take pot luck and get your cookies fresh from the oven, but Elly is happy to prepare your order ahead of time, box up larger quantities (at a 5% discount) or even deliver. There’s fresh lemonade, teas and a sinful hot chocolate, too, and if you ask nicely, you can even get a mug of milk. ADD Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong 225-143 Tel 02-792-8890 Opening hours 12 - 10pm, seven days a week

The Booth’s Kukmin IPA An IPA for everybody Story by Rob Shelley photos by The Booth

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

ukmin IPA (국민 IPA) roughly translates as “the people’s IPA” and is one of The Booth’s new flagship beers. “It has a very soft mouthfeel but the hop flavor and character are huge!” raves The Booth’s head brewer, Chris Shelton. “The haze is intentional. Very East Coast.” East Coast, or New England, IPAs are the new frontier for hop heads. Cloudy, juicy, and soft, these IPAs are just now gaining widespread attention. The Kukmin IPA is hopped with Mosaic, a very big hop right now, with flavors ranging from mango, fruit juice, pine, bubblegum, and blueberry. It also uses Enigma, a new hop from Australia with raspberry and melon flavors. But as hops interact in different brews, flavors can morph. Chris describes his creation as a melody of “overripe grilled mango, pineapple, [and] papaya.” I definitely enjoyed the soft mouthfeel and detected mango, pine, and a soft dandelion quality in the aftertaste. For anyone who hasn’t had the pleasure of the New England IPA style, get yourself to The Booth. Everyone is going to get something a little bit different from this IPA. Price 7,800KRW website thebooth.co.kr/pubs

TRAVEL Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com November 2016 60

Korean cuisine a hit in the Land of Smiles

Meet the young Korean chef whose hip restaurant is winning raves in Thailand Story and photos by Dianne Pineda

like spicy food, so at first the customers said orean chef Doohyeok Choi has that Korean food and sauces were too sweet,” been featured in many magChoi says. “I got into a bit of trouble there.” azines for his new restaurant that’s capturing the attention and palates of many people. But instead of A taste of culture the usual Hangul, his interviews are written To immerse himself more in Thai culin Thai, a result of his big move from Korea to ture, Choi learned Thai in a language school Bangkok to open his first restauand befriended the locals. He rant. “I think that working in the traveled to the southern parts Thai people restaurant business in Korea is of Thailand to enjoy the waters really like spicy not easy as it is already full of and bake in the sun. He’s been food, so at first food hubs,” Choi shares. “Here in to Phuket, Phi Phi Island, Patthe customers said taya, Ayuttaya, and Huanhin. Thailand, there aren’t that many that Korean food Korean restaurants around and He has tried several kinds of and sauces were the people have a good image of Thai food; his favorites include too sweet Korean culture and cuisine.” Tomyum and Pad Thai. His adThe journey to live in anventures were a kind of research other country proved quite daunting for the for him, and pretty soon he garnered a lot of 30-year-old chef, not to mention opening a Thai friends, and was able to find the balance business without a partner, but he only needed between Korean and Thai food. “I changed the his sense of taste to turn things around. If you recipes and level of spiciness in my food, so think Korean food is spicy, Thai people like now I often hear customers [are] satisfied with their dishes even hotter. “Thai people really my dishes.”

add 2FL, Habito Mall, Sukhumvit 77 soi 1/1, Bangkok, Thailand tel 02 062 2935 Facebook Facebook.com/choichoichicken Instagram instagram.com/choichoichicken

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

TRAVEL

It didn’t take long before Choi got accustomed to the pace of life in Thailand, and soon he found himself calling it a second home. “I love being here with the warm weather and nice people. The Thais don’t like getting angry. Life here is more relaxed compared to Korea,” he explains. Korea has a very rushed ‘bballi, bballi’ culture, but what they have here is a calm lifestyle. Absolutely opposite.” But even though Choi has found a niche and profound love for Thailand, he still hasn’t forgotten his Korean roots. He wants to introduce more Korean cuisine to the Thais,

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Best of both worlds

while considering their own food palates and staying true to how food is really made and enjoyed in Korea. He’s received a great helping hand, of course, from hallyu (the Korean wave), as Thais are big fans of K-Pop. “I appreciate our K-Pop culture and Korean idols/stars nowadays, it’s very helpful to me,” Choi says with a laugh. Choi has proven that when it comes to food, respect is all that matters. No matter what country, everyone understands the language of cuisine. The dishes that still maintain authentic flavors, their uniqueness and openness to others will speak for themselves. Choi ends, “I want to be the most successful chef of original Korean food in Thailand, and hopefully I can share it in Korea as well. Now I feel half Korean and half Thai.”

His highlight dish is Korean chicken, but many Thai people love his other kitchen creations like somtam, kimchijigae, bibimbap, and the ever-famous Korean dessert, bingsu. His night-time specials include soju and maekgeolli cocktails, which give a boozy kick to those looking to have some drinks after work.

What does it take to be a Double Ironman finisher?

Double Trouble as the Slovenian Fister Brothers take on a Triathlon Story and Photos by Dušan Fister and Iztok Fister Jr.

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

TRAVEL

and swimmers. Those years took care of the t was a very sunny and pleasant issues that all beginners face, such as digesFriday morning in August when we tion problems, lack of strength, dizziness, and, woke up and realized that we were most importantly, psychological weakness. If heading into physical and mental the latter can be overcome with the passage of torture. Torture that might actually bear fruit time, you will probably reach your goal. by Saturday evening: assuming we finished Many say that good mental preparation is the race, we – Dusan and Iztok - would be80% of success. It is the fuel, which comes into come two of the youngest finishers in the account when your legs start to lose strength. world. We had swum, cycled, and run togethIztok has already tasted that feeling two times, er as brothers for many years, but had never in 2011 and 2012, when he did not finish the tried to compete together in such a painful race due to medical problems in the last stage experience. We were heading into the World of running. Potentially, he might have had Championships Double Ultra Triathlon - the some past experiences and slightly higher name sounds intimidating in itself - but the chances of success than Dušan, who was on description is much more so. the day of start 21, about 4 years younger that The Double Ultra Triathlon is a grueling brother, having no race experace that consists of a 7.6 km rience longer than a standard swim, a 360 km cycle and an As a matter of fact, Ironman. However, by the time 84.4 km run. In other words, it both of us had more race day rolled around, we were multiplies the traditional Ironthan 10 years of both feeling confident of finishman triathlon by two. Ultra triexperiences as ing and becoming the youngest athlons are held worldwide by cyclists, and later brothers to do so in the same the International Ultra Triathlon marathoners, Double Ultra. The preparation Association (IUTA), but the most long distance and experience were a ticket to important fact for us was that it triathletes and our ultimate goal. But we still was a race that is held annually swimmers had to run the race. in our home village Bakovci, loOn race day, we first orgacated in northeastern Slovenia. nized our gear in the transition zone where Slovenia is a pretty small country (about 2 triathletes change for the next leg (from swimmillion inhabitants) in central Europe and is ming to cycling and from cycling to running). surrounded by our four neighbors: Austria, Next, we put our wetsuits on, since the water Croatia, Hungary, and Italy. The weather in was a little bit colder than usual, a swimming the summer is hot, with temperatures reachcap and swimming goggles. This process was ing up to 35 °C and that sunny day in August quick because we had a large, well-organized was no exception. support team. Every few minutes, the timeOur decision to do the Double Ultra Trikeeper shouted out a number, each one lower athlon had to be supported by a lot of training, than the last. When we heard “Five”, we realboth physical and mental. Our specific prepaized that the start was only five minutes away. rations for this race started a year earlier, with While we positioned our swimming goggles autumn tempo training. The aim of Double and waited for the final countdown to start the Triathlon training is mainly to gain endurance Double Ultra, the crowd may have been askwhile keeping a decent pace; therefore, longer ing themselves: "Aren’t they too young for this training sessions are required. Actually, to be thing?" But, for us, it was too late to think about frank, preparation for such a long race really that, or our preparation, or even our menrequires several years of effort; first experital state. We were competing at a local race, encing all three disciplines and then testing so everyone of course knew us. The nervous your ability at shorter distances. Both of us tension was thus even higher, but we were tohad more than 10 years of experience as cytally sure of success and nothing was going to clists, marathoners, long distance triathletes,

bother us. On home turf, we were even more motivated to achieve the goal we had set – to finish. At 12pm, the starting pistol was heard by the 45 competing international triathletes. The local lake was quickly inundated with wetsuits. The swim itself was actually quite cold, even though many natural lakes in Slovenia offer nice swimming conditions from May to September. The swim consisted of 18 laps. The competitors frequently stopped to refresh themselves with some food or drink, and we were no exception. It took just under three hours to come out of the water, change, and start cycling. Our tactics were to warm up slowly first and then gradually increase the pace. It is difficult to choose the right pace and not to burn too much energy unnecessarily. The majority of cycling was at night; therefore, visibility was reduced. It was cloudy, foggy and very cold at 10 °C, which no one had expected. Personally, we had occasionally trained at night, but never in such cold temperatures. But the cold had a positive side – our legs were cooling the whole time and the pain was reducing. It took us a bit more than 12 hours to complete the 74 laps required for cycling. After cycling, it was necessary to refresh as much as possible because the toughest part of the triathlon had not even started yet. Running is the triathlon discipline which makes you “iron.” It is the discipline which busts all prejudices and determines the final result. It can make you very proud of yourself - or make you feel lost. Running is the section which can be over and done with in a little over six hours, or can be stretched over 18 hours. It helps you to find yourself through all the pain in your knees, ankles, and feet. When you come so far, you cannot quit just like that. All the hard work had paid off when we crossed the finish line. Even if it is in sandals, like Iztok did when he finished 30th, a respectable 17 places behind Dušan, who came 13th in the Double Ultra. So what do you get besides a medal and a finisher’s t-shirt? This is the most commonly heard question

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

More info www.dusanfister.com / www.iztok-jr-fister.eu

ove r the past few years. People focus on what is the point of doing ultra-triathlons. Many people all over the world ask this and want to know what we get from it. Why are you doing it? What is the reward? As a matter of fact, we always have the same answer: The best things in life are free and no amount of money can buy you a finisherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s t-shirt from a Double Ultra Triathlon. You have to finish a race in order to get one. At the end of the day, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be thankful for every ultra-triathlon. They teach you the way of the warrior, and can help you to overcome any problem in your daily life. However, finishing is not easy and it takes years and years of hard work and training. When you cross that finish line, though, it is one of the best days of your life. You just cannot imagine the feeling.

TRAVEL

It took us a bit more than 12 hours to complete all the 74 laps of cycling part.

LISTIN G S Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

HOTELS & RESORTS

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS

FAMILY & KIDS

American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

EMBASSIES

British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000 Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180 Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500 Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Jin Air 1600-6200

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries. 6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

D ETUR

PO NS MU

NDO

HEALTH Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age. A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com

Animal hospitals

AMUSEMENT PARKS

National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean.

Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book? (02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books. Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products. Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr UROLOGY & OB Sewum Urology (02) 3482-8575 • 10th fl., Dongil bldg., 429 Gangnam-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul DENTAL CLINIC Boston Dental Clinic General dentistry / Periodontics / Orthodontics (02) 3482-0028 • 92-12 5F, Banpo 4-dong (Seorae French Village), Seocho-gu, Seoul

National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture. Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays. Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays. National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

Hair & Joy Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Tel 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243 3rd fl. 168-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu Hair & Joy

www.hairandjoy.com

Lotte Cinema

www.groovekorea.com November 2016

Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES

Hongik Univ. Station

Samsung Plaza

Qunohair Gangnam / Apgujeong Branch Tel 02.549.0335 10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul www.qunohair.com

Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do

Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”