Groove February 2016

COUPLE CLOTHING: What's behind the romance in identical apparel?

KOREA • Issue 112 • February 2016

EVERYONE'S MIC:

STEPPING UP ONTO THE HIP-HOP PLATFORM

QOFuSeEeOnULs:

MUCH MORE

hair,big lips and high heels than fake

THE GREAT

EDITORIAL

February 2016

arming up this February is Valentine’s Day. Yes, a day full of romance, chocolates, hearts and everything else that is sickly sweet.

If you are in a relationship, then ladies, get ready for a romantic weekend ahead while if you are a fella, then it’s time to get that thinking cap on.

For singles, Korea offers a little more respite than our traditional western customs with a lack of Valentine Cards, and less pressure on romantic gestures (given that White Day is a mere month away). However you intend on celebrating, the five-star hotels of Seoul have a few suggestions that may be right up your expat street. Staying on the road, and Anita McKay has delved deeper into the romantic conundrum of couple clothing to speak

C N O VT EH R O E

February 2016

Beneath all the falshy costumes, glitzy makeup and excessive body padding are serious performers tackling serious issues. This month three of Seoul's prominent drag queens discuss what it's like being part of the small, albeit growing, drag queen scene in conservative Korea.

Cover Photo by Blair Kitchener

to six partners in love about their desire to wear identical clothing.

Moving onto the holiday scene and Hallie Bradley offers a few alternative suggestions for the upcoming Seollal vacation.

Liam Ring shares his idea of getting away while watching local favorites FC Seoul play away to Buriram FC in Thailand while Barbara Bierbrauer takes us further afield with her own insights into the ever changing Cuba.

With change on the horizon, Anita McKay gets up close and personal with three of Seoul’s most distinguished drag queens to find out what life is really like on the drag queen scene. Alongside the usual food reviews, Rob Shelley continues his craft beer mission to talk about nitro brew while Jay Steingold talks about Choosing Your Beans carefully.

In sports, clubs are also getting warmed up for the new season. Luke Butcher catches up with one of Seoul’s oldest soccer clubs while Dain Leatham looks ahead to a new season with the Korea Touch Association. If looking to get healthier while meeting new people, the Be More Human Project is here with a variety of activities to get your fitness up to speed.

With an amazing month in store, the warm fuzz of Valentines, the extra vacation days of Seollal and the adrenaline of the sports clubs gearing up for a new season can only mean things are undoubtedly hotting up this Year of the Monkey.

Happy New Year!

What's in this issue Vol. 112 February 2016

04

EDITORIAL

10

26

Quench that coffee thirst with four of the best hidden cafés in the city

KEY PEOPLE Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

12

WHAT'S ON Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

14

THE NEWS Foreigner’s death linked to late singer’s surgeon

16

Events in boy’s death re-enacted

17

K-Pop idol sets off a cross-Strait political row

INSIGHT 18

CONTRACTS What your contract means and your rights if an employer breaks it

20

GETTING TO KNOW YOUR INNER DIVA: A drag queen's tale

COMMUNITY 22

32

JULIAN WOODHOUSE: Fashion Designer

ENTERTAINMENT 34

HONGDAE LIVE DAY The return of everyone's favorite entertainment ticket now includes twenty Hongdae clubs

24

36

26 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

LITTLE TRAVELLERS The charity travels to Korea to raise money for the Hillcrest Center in Africa

SEOLLAL CELEBRATIONS Spend the Seollal vacation celebrating the New Year in style COUPLE CLOTHING In the month of romance, there's no better time to find out why couples wear the same clothing

6

30

COFFEE CAFES Cale Noonan finds some of the best Seoul cafes for a top-notch coffee

28

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN British International Kindergarten start a new school year with a spring in their step

between Korea's and Germany's divisions

SPORT 42

BE MORE HUMAN PROJECT Stronger, fitter, faster with the Be More Human Project

44

KOREA TOUCH ASSOCIATION The Korea Touch Associaton prepare for a big 2016

46

SEOUL BASEBALL LEAGUE 5 years of bases loaded with the Seoul Baseball League

OPEN MIC Up and coming hip hop gets a new platform

38

THREE BY …DIVERSITY It's a diverse month in K-film world this February so enjoy a plethora of genres on the big screen

40

DMZ STORY EXHIBITION An exhibition depicting similarities and differences

p.32

From Seoul to the Big Apple, designer Julian Woodhouse brings his creative flair to menswear

What's in this issue KOREA

Vol. 112 February 2016

20

48

SEOUL INTERNATIONAL SOCCER CLUB Seoul's longest serving expatriate soccer club

FOOD&DRINK 50

CHOOSING YOUR BEANS How to select the best beans for home coffee consumption

52

AMERICANO TASTE TEST Follow a jittery jaunt to rank Seoul's best franchise Americanos

54

NITRO BREW Better beer and coffee through technology

55

8

www.groovekorea.com February 2016

WHAT'S THAT YOU'RE DRINKING? Songdo's got itself a craft beer hot spot

56

COLD WEATHER CURRY A fortifying winter recipe sans meat

57

RESTAURANT BUZZ Bagel, bagel bagel!

57

Much more than fake hair, big lips and high heels

62

TRAVEL

FC SEOUL AFC GETAWAYS Following the Red Devils in their Asian Champions League campaign across the region

58

64

BUTTERFINGER FLIP Candy Bar Cocktail Magic

ROMANTIC GETAWAYS Romancing your Seoul with the capital's finest five star hotels

60

CUBA Embracing the new and old in Cuba

GROOVE LISTINGS

p.58

Help make your Valentine’s Day a five-star affair

Key people

Erika Hughes

is a photographer originally from Ottawa, Canada. She is a visual arts teacher at an international school and has been living in South Korea on and off since 2011. She has a background in photojournalism and focuses on travel and lifestyle photography. She enjoys shooting around Seoul when she has time.

Jay Steingold

Michael Burkhardt

was a Peace Corps volunteer in Paraguay and an architect in California before coming to Korea in 2010. When he isn't writing for local magazines or teaching university students, he rides bikes, sips bourbon, sings and plays guitar, and eats burritos (not necessarily in that order.)

is originally from Seattle, WA where he first discovered his love of coffee. He runs the site www.thecoffeechaser. com where he reviews cafes and coffee beans from around the world. When he isn't exploring new neighborhoods, he enjoys having cheap eats with his wife, cooking and web developing.

10 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Cale Noonan

was brought up in the small town of Ladysmith on Vancouver Island, Canada.

Never one to stay put, he’s found himself working quite a few of jobs in his life. To make ends meet now, he teaches English to little kids in Seoul. In his spare time, he enjoys traveling, reading, and havin’ a time out on the old salt chuck with the b’ys. Cale is always on the lookout for good cups of coffee, decent music, and delicious food from around the world.

Celeste Maturen

is a writer from a real place called Kalamazoo.

Her true loves are New York City, fashion, everything Junot Diaz and Barbara Kingsolver and getting lost in new places. She teaches writing at a university in Ulsan and much to her surprise enjoys mountain living, aside from the wild boars. She blogs occasionally at www. celestematuren.com.

KOREA 5th floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea.

Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com E DITORIAL DIRECTOR

naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL

COMMUNITY INSIGHT FOOD & DRINK ENTERTAINMENT TRAVEL SPORTS

naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com anita MCKAY anita@groovekorea.com charlotte HAMMOND food@groovekorea.com naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com liam RING liam@groovekorea.com COPY EDITORS

gil coombe, celeste maturen WR ITERS & CONTRIBUTORS

Dain Leathem, Michael Burkhardt, Luke Butcher, Hallie Bradley, Cale Noonan, Javier Totor, Celeste Maturen, BIK Hannam, Emma Kalka, Simon McEnteggart, Rob Shelley, Barbara Bierbrauer, Darren Bean, Yuna Lee, Jay Steingold, Yoo-Jin Oh, Bobby Kim, Joe McPherson, Seoul International Soccer Club, Seoul Baseball League, Korea Touch Association, The Be More Human Project, FC Seoul, Jorge Gonzalez, Erika Hughes, Blair Kitchener Little Travellers Korea, Douglas Vautour Photography, Margarita Araujo, Corinne Eschenroeder, Berlin Eastside Gallery Association, Korea DMZ Research Institute, Underground, Gray-Scale, HanCinema, Jay Logic, Ahn Myung Kyu, Skellio, The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul, The Conrad Seoul, Grand Hyatt Seoul. rand Intercontinental Seoul COEX, Laura Robertson, Translators Eun-jung Lee Illustrators Craig Stuart ART & DESIGN

ART DIRECTOR luke LELONKIEVITZ Luke@groovekorea.com CFO MARKETING & ADMINISTRATION MARKETING DIRECTOR steve seung-jin LEE ACCOUNTING peter CHONG yi-seul OH W EB & MOBILE

HIMES DESIGN www.himesdesign.com FINCH PROFESSTIONAL SERVICES www.finchproservices.com PUBLISHER

sean CHOI sean@groovekorea.com

To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com.

To contribute to groovekorea, promote an event or share your opinions, please email naheen@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

Š

All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2016

What's on MON

THU

TUE

WED

FEBRUARY CALENDAR

Pentt i Sammallaht i photo @ Gallery KONG, Jongro Seoul / until 28

MAGNUM CONTACT SHEET S @ The Museum of Photography, Songpa Seoul / until April 16 / until March 13

10

8

Lunar New Year’s Day

MIKA live @ BEXCO, Busan A Creator who changed The first full moon the lunar t he world, iLOVE STEVE calendar @ Seoul Arts Center / until Mar 8 / adults 11,000w, youth (7-18 yrs) 10,000w / preschoolers 6,000w / until March 13

15 18

Deadpool The 29th BeFe BABYFAIR @ COEX / until 21

12 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

22

29

T he firs t full moon t he lunar calendar

FEBRUARY 2016 FRI

SAT

Herb Ritt s X Hollywood @ Sejong Center

SUN

5

MIKA live @ Jamsil Stadium, Seoul

14

Valent ine’s Day Jan. 9-31

Jeff Bernat live @ Blue Square in Hannamdong, Seoul / 12 & 13

MIKA live @ EXCO, Daegu Jeff Bernat @ KBS hall, Busan

11 21

19

20

5t h Dong-A Tea & Craft Fair @ KINTEX, Ilsan / until 20 Gods of Egypt

26

Seoul Int’l Spor t s & Leisure Indusr ty Show (SPOEX) 2016 @ COEX / 25-28

@ BEXCO, Busan / 20 & 21 @ BEXCO, Busan / 20 & 21

Diana Krall world tour @ Sejong Center 2016 Uljin snow crab fes t ival / Feb 27 – Mar 1

NATI ONAL NE WS

All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity.

The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

In association with February 2016 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

FOREIGNER’S DEATH LINKED TO LATE SINGER’S SURGEON

14 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

v

olice announced on January 22 that they are looking into the death of an Australian man who underwent a stomach stapling operation in November by the same surgeon currently involved in a malpractice suit over the death of one of Korea’s biggest rock stars.

The patient’s death came a little more than a month after part of his stomach was removed by Dr. Kang Se-hoon, 45, who formerly headed Seoul Sky Hospital in southern Seoul’s affluent Songpa District.

The Australian had reportedly visited a new hospital that Kang had opened there under a new name to undergo the operation as a treatment for obesity.

According to police officers in Cheonan, South Chungcheong, the patient was diagnosed as extremely obese, and the procedure was hoped to help with that. The Australian man, they added, planned to leave Korea two days after the initial surgery but was forced to receive three additional surgeries due to complications.

He was subsequently treated at a hospital in Cheonan and eventually died of blood poisoning, 40 days after the initial surgery on Nov. 18.

The man’s death means Kang could face an additional medical malpractice suit; the Seoul surgeon is currently embroiled in a suit over the death in 2014 of famed singer Shin Hae-chul, a Korean rock icon who rose to mega-stardom in the 1990s.

On Oct. 17, 2014, Shin underwent abdominal surgery for adhesions at Seoul Sky Hospital.

Five years earlier, he had undergone gastric bypass surgery at that clinic, after which his large and small intestines had fused together. Surgery was required to reverse the condition, an operation that was performed by Dr. Kang.

Five days later, he had a heart attack and fell into a coma, eventually passing away on Oct. 27, 2014.

Police held Kang responsible for the death, citing results from the National Forensic Service, and prosecutors later indicted him on medical malpractice charges.

Police said they are currently awaiting the forensic results to determine whether Kang will face another medical malpractice charge over the Australian man’s death.

By law, a licensed doctor is allowed to continue practicing medicine if he or she has not been convicted on a malpractice charge.

WOMAN ARRESTED FOR BUYING AT LEAST SIX BABIES

P

olice said on January 7 that they had apprehended a woman for buying a total of six babies from single mothers for between 200,000 won ($167) and 1.5 million won.

The 23-year-old suspect, surnamed Lim, reportedly made the transactions between March 2014 and April 2015, the Nonsan Police Precinct in South Chungcheong said.

She was arrested on January 4 and has been charged for violating the Child Welfare Act. According to authorities, Lim reportedly contacted the mothers via online sites, offering them money in exchange for their babies.

Authorities said that the suspect had consistently stated her love for children, saying that she had intended to raise the babies herself, though police added that her financial situation was not conducive to raising several children.

Profilers will work to investigate whether Lim’s statement is reliable.

On January 6, authorities sent one baby girl, who was being raised by Lim’s aunt in Daegu, to a child care agency, along with three other babies Lim was raising.

The babies’ health was found to be decent.

Police are currently looking for the babies’ biological parents. So far, one was found to be a teenage mother.

She will also be charged for violating the Child Welfare Act. The police are searching for the parents of the others.

Lim said she sent back two babies to their parents, who are living in Busan and Daegu.

“Up until now, there is no sign that the suspect resold the babies,” a police officer said. “We plan to look into her financial transactions and phone records to determine if she made any more deals.”

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NATI ONAL NE WS

The father of the 7-year-old boy whose mutilated remains were found frozen in his family home is transported by police to a house in Bucheon, Gyeonggi, to re-enact events in order to verify his statement.

EVENTS IN BOY’S DEATH

RE-ENACTED

16 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

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parents of the 7-yearold boy whose mutilated remains were found frozen in their house nearly four years after he vanished from school remained calm and silent as they re-enacted how they had chopped up the boy’s body after his death and discarded some parts.

Police on January 21 morning brought the father, surnamed Choi, and the mother, surnamed Han, to four sites, where they ordered them to reconstruct the events of their son’s death in order to verify their statements.

Neighbors and other area residents who gathered near the family residence in Bucheon, Gyeonggi, condemned the couple and screamed expletives, at one point calling them “beasts wearing human skin.”

But despite the chaos, the suspects wearing handcuffs, matching hats and face masks - never uttered a single word, nor expressed anguish.

The re-enactment began at a civic center in Bucheon, where Han, 34, showed how she had carried parts of the mutilated body in a black plastic bag to

the toilet there and flushed the remains.

The father, who previously stated that he had physically abused his son and mutilated the body to hide the boy’s death, relayed to police at the family home the events that transpired between Nov. 7 and Nov. 8, 2012, when the boy died.

According to police, on Nov. 7, Choi had been drinking and punched the 7-yearold in the face, forced him to lie down on the floor and then kicked him in the head.

Han said that her husband had beaten the boy for two straight hours the day before their son died.

However, at the scene, Choi backtracked, claiming that the attack on the 7-year-old had lasted much longer than two hours. It was on Nov. 8 around 5 p.m. when Choi woke up to find his son dead.

He called Han, he said, and told her to come home immediately.

But rather than taking the boy to a hospital, the couple reportedly ordered chicken and drank alcohol.

Choi remained calm and did not hesitate as he showed authorities how he said he cut up the body and placed the remains in the refrigerator, according to a police officer who was present at the re-enactment.

Han provided gloves and held open the plastic bags.

The father also explained how he left the remains at a friend’s house once the investigation began, claiming that the bags were luggage, and how he had previously moved the remains to the family’s new residence in March 2013 with Han and their daughter.

The friend told police that he did not know what was in the bags.

The couple’s daughter, now 10, is currently under the care of child protective services.

Criminal profilers in the investigation found that Choi lacked impulse control despite having mostly taken charge in raising the children.

They believe Choi killed his son because he could not suppress his anger toward the boy, who reportedly showed symptoms of attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD), and that Han helped him because she feared she would be separated from her husband.

Police said they will charge Choi with murder and file the case with the prosecution.

Han will be charged with violating the Child Welfare Act and abandoning a body.

In association with

K-POP

controversy surrounding K-pop star Tzuyu, who waved a Taiwanese flag in an online video clip, grew over the weekend as Taiwan president-elect Tsai Ing-wen addressed the issue, saying the Taiwan-born 16-year-old “did nothing wrong.”

In her first press conference after Taiwanese voters elected her president January 16, Tsai, whose party wants greater distance from Beijing, said Tzuyu was blameless and that Taiwan’s representative office in Korea will pursue the matter with her management company, JYP. “This particular incident will serve as a constant reminder to me about the importance of our country’s strength and unity,” Tsai told reporters over the weekend. “This is unjust and unacceptable,” she continued, condemning what she described as China’s bullying of a young girl.

“This has hurt the feelings of all Taiwan’s people. A show of patriotism should never be opposed.”

The teenager, who was born and raised in Taiwan, found herself embroiled in cross-Taiwan Strait tensions after she waved the Taiwan flag on a Korean entertainment show. in 1949 and Beijing continues to claim The scene wasn’t aired on national the island as its own territory to be television, but an online-exclusive recovered by force if necessary. portion of it from the MBC variety On January 15, an 83-second video show “My Little Television” was posted of a grim-faced Tzuyu in a black on the Internet in November.

Taiwanese pop singer Michael Huang, turtleneck sweater was uploaded on JYP’s YouTube and Weibo accounts, in who is known for his pro-unification which she solemnly bowed and said views, blasted Tzuyu, whose real name “There is only one China.” is Chou Tzu-yu, on his Sina Weibo Reading from a sheet of paper, the account on Jan. 8 and uploaded a 16-year-old continues that she has photo of her waving the Korean and “always felt proud to be Chinese,” and Taiwanese flags. that she feels “deep remorse” for having Korea’s entertainment industry hurt “China, and my friends in Taiwan.” concentrates on the Chinese market The K-pop star’s agency, JYP, said it for concerts, and local talent agencies would curtail her commercial activities often hire foreign prodigies who will on the Chinese mainland, apparently appeal to Chinese audiences. Last in response to online commentary fall, a new girl band named Twice was launched, and Tzuyu is in it. Among its in China accusing her of supporting nine members, four members including Taiwan’s independence.

That same day, JYP founder and CEO her are non-Korean. Three are Japanese.

Park Jin-young uploaded a 156-word The Taiwanese flag is a sore point for statement on his company’s official mainland China since it is considered website saying he “apologized to all an emblem of an independent Taiwan. the fans in China who were hurt” by China and Taiwan split amid civil war

IDOL

SETS OFF A CROSS-STRAIT POLITICAL ROW

A scene of K-pop star Tzuyu holding a Taiwanese flag on a YouTube video clip.

A video clip of Tzuyu reading her apology to the Chinese for holding the Taiwanese flag in a TV program segment

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 17

the incident, and that he and his staff will “strive to contribute to KoreaChina relations and bilateral cultural exchange.”

“She came to Korea at the young age of 13, and I believe my company and I share a great responsibility in the fact that we didn’t teach her well in the absence of her parents,” he wrote. He said Tzuyu will halt all activities in China.

Nichkhun, a member of K-pop boy band 2PM, a group also managed

by JYP, canceled his appearance at an event in China on Sunday in an effort to wind down the controversy.

An insider from the agency told Ilgan Sports, an affiliate of the Korea JoongAng Daily, that the company recognized the issue had taken a toll on its China business and that it decided to cancel the male singer’s participation.

Tzuyu debuted in Korea on Oct. 20, 2015 and has always identified herself as Taiwanese.

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

WHAT IS A CONTRACT? And what are your rights under it?

18 www.groovekorea.com February 2015

Story by Darren Bean and Yuna Lee Illustration by Craig Stuart

really, what is it? It’s a commonly used word, sure: “You broke our contract” or “It’s in the contract” can be heard as often as other vaguely legalese phrases such as “My rights,” or “I’ll sue,” but what exactly is a contract? We ask because, if pressed, most people can’t really say. An agreement? A promise? The law?

A contract is a promise you must keep because the law will enforce it. You breach, you pay (or deliver). This seems simple until you consider that you don’t have to keep all promises because the law — the court — won’t enforce all promises. Consider: “Your Honor, we had a deal that I was going to trade a shipful of guns for a truckful of narcotics.”

“Oh well then go ahead, a contract is a contract. Cheerio.”

Nope. But there are other, more subtle laws at play, such as securities regulations for investment transactions, labor law for employment contracts and immigration law for entering the country. What happens when an employer has a contract to pay a nonresident

alien, who cannot work legally at all, a rate less than minimum wage? Korean courts have said that the employee must be compensated in accordance with the Labor Standards Act. But it might not be too wise to file a suit because, if immigration were to get wind of it, they could fine both parties for violating immigration law and maybe deport the worker.

There are also basic principles of contract law, such as when a promise is meant to be kept, that vary by jurisdiction. Unilateral promises to bestow a gift are not enforceable in the US (usually) but enforceable in England and Korea. Legal humor blog Lowering the Bar featured a story about a “contract” that, despite being signed in blood, was not enforceable because it was essentially a gift promise. (That case involved two Americans of Korean descent, oddly enough.) A person may also be unable to form a contract (or certain types of contracts) due to lack of mental capacity or being a minor.

In perhaps a more relevant example, a Canadian paraglider was allowed to sue a Korean instructor despite a waiver of liability

because he could not read the waiver as it was written in Korean. But unlike California, for example, where business contracts must be in a language readable by the other party, there isn’t any provision in Korean civil law mandating for this. So you might not be able to cancel your phone and lease on a whim; even if other courts followed the same reasoning, the readability issue might be limited to waivers, where an understanding of the risks disclosed is a key feature, rather than all contracts. Furthermore, the usual presumption is that a person has read and understood what they have signed. (Otherwise courts would be involved in endless inquiries about knowledge and understanding.)

It is commonly said that contracts are simply viewed as guidelines in Korea. And while that may be true in a cultural sense, where long-term relationships are viewed as more important than short-term promises or the “bottom line” of a single deal, it’s not true as a matter of law.

A breach is a breach and an obligation is an obligation, unless there is a legal justification for failing to meet the obligation.

Yuna Lee is a Korean attorney with the firm Seowoo Minyul in Seoul. Darren Bean is a California-licensed attorney residing in Seoul.

Much more than fake hair, big lips and high heels Story by Anita McKay Photos by Blair Kitchener

20 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

I N S I G H T

Oueens of Seoul

It’s been a crazy four years,” Kuciia Diamant says as he takes a moment to reflect on how much his life has changed in such a short amount of time. “I feel like I’ve lived with Kuciia for ten years. Just four years? Wow.” Kuciia is a full-time drag queen who uses this name on and off the stage to simplify his life. (“If I’m not Kuciia and am using my Korean name, I can’t focus on my career.”) At 25 years old, he has only been on the Seoul drag queen circuit for four years, yet he is one of the most sought after performers.

“Before I just wanted to be a diva, but I think now I am a diva,” he says. By “diva” he means the feeling he gets from being on stage — the chanting, the applause, the sight of a packed-out venue dancing because of you — a far cry from his predrag days.

“Before Kuciia I lived a simple life,” he says. In Incheon, where he was raised mainly by his moth-

er and grandmother, there was no glitz nor glamour, just work and study. After he completed his military service, he wanted a change of scenery and decided to move to Iteawon in Seoul. Weary of the area at first, he started bartending and settled in. Soon, he found himself attending the drag show of a coworker and was blown away by the crowd’s response.

“The first time I saw his drag show, so many people applauded him and screamed and it looked so nice. I thought ‘maybe I can do that’.”

While much of the last four years have been spent perfecting his act, he has been part of a different project: working with other queens to build up Seoul’s drag community. A self-appointed mother figure to those entering the industry, he says this effort is now coming to fruition.

A growing community Made up of Koreans and expats, the drag queen community is steadily growing — an achieve-

ment Kuciia believes has been helped by Korea’s increasing acceptance of the LGBT+ community.

“The queer festival was huge last year. I think people are listening to us and watching what we are doing, I think this year [drag queen shows are] beginning to get more popular,” he says.

Mainly centered around the few LGBT+ clubs in the Iteawon and Hongdae areas of Seoul, a friendly and supportive community has emerged — one that offers more than just the chance to perform for a few minutes on stage.

“It’s awesome and liberating when you’re hanging outside the bar with the attendees to the parties and other queens and you’re with your family,” Winny, part-time drag queen from the US, says.

Winny, who asked to be identified by his stage name, has been doing drag in Seoul since 2014.

A much smaller underground community than in his hometown in Florida, he says he has seen the industry change over the past two years.

form,” she says. “Even with the Western expats I’ve seen, they do think it’s some kind of trash, like I’m just a go-go dancer in a club.”

For her, drag performance is a provocative art form. “I’m not just dancing to pop music and having old men stare at my bits. I’m actually trying to make a statement with this performance,” she says.

More information: Kuciia Diamant www.facebook.com/TheKuciiaDiamant Winny www.facebook.com/therealwinny Unity Jackson www.facebook.com/unityjacksonqueen The Meet Market www.facebook.com/meetmarketseoul

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 21

the overblown personality that comes with being a drag queen. “Being on stage, it’s liberating enough to make me what I’ve always wanted to be, with the big huge personality,” Claire Allen, a drag queen from the UK, says about her drag character, Unity Jackson.

“I feel like a superhero, like a real life cartoon character. It’s very empowering – I feel strong, I feel brave,” she says.

Her act is a bit of an anomaly in Seoul. Being a female drag queen — the only one she’s aware of — she was ready for some resistance. Luckily it never materialized. “I thought ‘Are they going to be like, ‘You’re a women you can’t do drag,’ but they instantly accepted me. ‘Oh you’re a female drag queen? Fine.’”

Allen says Unity Jackson is an extension of her already eccentric personality, which comes through on stage. She layers her comedic performance with serious overtones such as gender politics, multicultural relationships and takes inspiration from her expat life as an English teacher. Despite the variety, diversity and sincerity of the performances that she sees within the drag community, she says that people are quick to dismiss it as low-brow entertainment.

“I do find Koreans look down on it as some kind of trash art, that it’s not a respected art

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

Finding your inner drag queen In 2011 “Butch-hers” Rachel Miller and Kim Thompson made the event as a safe space for queers. Since then the Meet Market has evolved into a monthly fixture for the LGBT+ community and their allies.

Winny, who emcees the event, said it took him some time to discover his character. When in Florida, Winny was a colorful drag queen inspired by the Ganguro subculture in Japan, much of his costume consisting of bright colors and a pink wig found at Good Will for 99 cents.

But what emerged when he arrived in Korea was an “unfinished” version.

“When I got to Korea, I shied away from the colors at first,” he says. “The Winny that emerged from there was much more into rock n roll and gutter punk, spiky leather gloves and just not finished because I was feeling very unfinished at the time,” he says.

But now when Winny struts out on stage as a quick-witted emcee “a lot more of the wrists come out.” However, not every night flows as well as others.

“A lot of queens will say when the wig goes on and the makeup is setting they start to feel this change coming over them — like they’re stepping out — and I really don’t feel that too much. It’s kind of like this seamless transition.

At times I feel like I’m still just [me] and I can feel every bit of the drag that’s on me. Some nights it’s good, some nights it’s not so great,” he says.

But not all drag queens feel this way. For others, it can be a chance to showcase and revel in

“I’M NOT JUST DANCING TO POP MUSIC AND HAVING OLD MEN STARE AT MY BITS. I’M ACTUALLY TRYING TO MAKE A STATEMENT WITH THIS PERFORMANCE.” CLAIRE ALLEN (UNITY JACKSON), DRAG QUEEN

I N S I G H T

“There are more new faces coming out to the Meet Market parties in Hongdae and each time the cast is just growing and growing. Prior to that there wasn’t much,” he says.

An active member in initiating this change, he says the scene was very different compared to when he first started. Lacking any centralized act or event — particularly for expats — he, along with Kuciia, set about changing this when they took over hosting the Meet Market in 2014.

Misconceptions and confusion Getting your drag character right can be a long, arduous process. In order to find his inner drag queen, Kuciia searched YouTube for makeup tutorials. Overwhelmed by the lack of Asian queens to copy from, he decided the typical exaggerated features weren’t for him. “I tried so many different ways. I shaved my eyebrows and drew them on, [I tried] big lips and big eyeliner.

I think this is [typical] drag queen style, but for me, I don’t want to be just a drag star, I want to be a star. So I have to find a middle point,” he says.

Kuciia is in “Kuciia mode” on and mostly off stage — she is more than just an extension of his personality. Even though Kuciia was only born four years ago, he feels that he has lived with her for much longer. This concept can cause some people to conflate all drag queens with being transgender. As Winny puts it, this is one of the biggest misconceptions in the industry and it is detrimental to everyone.

While he notes that there is some intersectional overlap — there are some trans women who got their initial spotlight with drag — drag queens have the ability to take off the wigs and makeup. “When people immediately assume that the two are related, it [erases] the trans narratives that are out there,” he says.

“Not every drag is trans or wants to be trans or is even gay,” he says.

The narratives, he says, are as varied as the queens themselves. For Winny, this diversity and individuality is what being a drag queen is about. “To me, the beauty of drag is that you can be one thing in one act and you don’t have to pigeonhole yourself or shoehorn yourself into a box,” he says.

With an expanding community — particularly for expats — the variety of performers can only continue to grow. For Winny, Kuciia and Claire, the next step is taking it out of the underground to achieve a more celebrated drag culture.

“People are responding to it,” Winny says. “It’s very rewarding to see people get into the shows.

It’s not lucrative, but it makes them happy and that makes us happy.”

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

SEOLLAL CELEBRATIONS

Join in one of the many New Year festivals to celebrate the Year of The Monkey

22 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Story and photos by Hallie Bradley

his year Seollal, or the Lunar New Year, falls on February 10 with the break from work encompassing five days of blissful relaxation time, so those lucky enough to have noticed the holiday far enough in advance probably got plane tickets to head on out of Korea. For those staying in the country though, there is still plenty to partake in from cultural festivities to non-traditional fun too and everything in between. Just be prepared for Seoul to become eerily quiet and for restaurants that are usually open 24 hours to be closed.

While most Koreans celebrating in traditional fashion will head to their family homes to celebrate by dressing up in their finest hanboks and rising early to bow in front of an altar of deliciously prepared food from meat and fish to fruit and tteokguk (rice cake soup), many foreigners are left to their own devices during the Lunar New Year holiday. Not to worry though, as plenty of places will be open and ready for

JUST BE PREPARED FOR SEOUL TO BECOME EERILY QUIET AND FOR RESTAURANTS THAT ARE USUALLY OPEN 24 HOURS TO BE CLOSED" business. The palaces in Seoul will welcome visitors and many will play host to hands-on programs. Those wearing hanboks will even get free entrance to walk amid the historical buildings, view the traditional rituals and play games. The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art as well as the 63 Building, N Seoul Tower, COEX, the Seoul Museum of History and The National Museum of Korea will all be open as well. If there are still things to mark off your Korean bucket list, now’s the time to take advantage of the break from work.

“The Year of the Monkey” at The National Folk Museum of Korea A special exhibition featuring the monkey will introduce the symbolic meaning of the animal in Korean culture in celebration of 2016’s The Year of the Monkey, which is also called Byeongshin Year in Korean. To learn more about the auspicious year to come, head over to Gyeongbukgung Palace and visit The National Folk Museum in the back corner.

Admission: Free Hours: 9am – 5pm Directions: Anguk Subway Station (Line 3, Exit 1); Gyeongbukgung Subway Station (Line 3, Exit 5) or Gwanghwamun Subway Station (Line 5, Exit 2). The museum sits on the northeast corner of the Gyeongbukgung grounds.

Fortune Party Celebrating Seol at The Korean Folk Village This holiday is an ideal time to visit the Korean Folk Village, which will play host to numerous events and fun activities for the whole family.

From traditional rites invoking good luck and shamanistic rituals to face painting, a photo zone and folk games, there will be plenty to do and there is sure to be plenty of hanboks and other traditional costumes to see too. Take the camera and get ready for some fun amid the traditional housing of the Korean past.

Admission: Adults KRW 24,000* (50% discount to those born in the year of a monkey & 33% discount given to up to three friends) Hours: 10am – 5:30pm Website: www.koreanfolk.co.kr Directions: From Gangnam Subway Station, (Line 2, Exit 10), catch bus 5001-1 to the Korea Folk Village.

• F rom Yeouido Subway Station (Line 5, Exit 6), catch bus 7007-1 to the Korean Folk Village.

• F rom Suwon Subway Station (Line 1, Exit 4), catch bus 10-5 or 37 to the Korean Folk Village.

To read more from Hallie Bradley, check out her website TheSoulofSeoul.net for articles on culture, Korean traditions and the life of her growing multicultural family in Korea.

11am-9pm (until 11pm on Sat), Adults KRW 9,000 / Students KRW 6,500 / Children KRW 5,500, Mongolia Culture Town, Gapyeong Sledding Hills

Feb 6 (and every Saturday) KISS Salsa Classes

7.30pm-8.30pm (beginner), 8.30pm-9.30pm (intermediate) KRW 10,000 won non-band nights/KRW 15,000 won band nights, SAMOS, Yonsero-5-dakil 22-3, 3rd floor, Chang Cheon-dong Sodemun-gu, Seoul

Feb 12 Volunteer Activity:

Yongsan Center for the Disabled, 2pm-4pm, Free but sign-up prior to the session www.global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon

Itaewon Global Village Center 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Feb 16 Volunteer Activity:

Yongsan Senior Welfare Center 1pm-2pm, Free but sign-up prior to the session , www.global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon

Itaewon Global Village Center 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Feb 19 Colors of Korea : Painting Class

10am-12pm, KRW 15,000, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Wine Cover: Hanbok Making Class, 1pm-3pm, KRW 15,000, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Feb 26 Korean Cooking Class (Maekjeok and Chive Salad)

10am-12pm, KRW 12,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Etiquette Factory For Kids

4pm5.30pm, KRW 8,000, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 23

“Miso: Baebijang-jeon” at Jeongdong Theater For a traditional performance, head over to Jeongdong Theater to see Miso: Baebijang-jeon. The 70-minute performance showcases the satirical work of a classical novel from the late Joseon Dynasty. Audiences can expect to laugh while enjoying the traditional attire, music and story that has been produced as an opera and musical many times before. Take this holiday to soak up some culture through a spirited stage performance.

Where: Jeongdong Theater, Jeongdong-gil 43, Jung-gu, Seoul Tickets: VIP KRW 54,000, R KRW 45,000, S KRW 36,000 Showtimes: Tuesday, February 9, 4pm and 8pm; Wednesday, February 10, 4pm and 8pm Website: www.jeongdong.or.kr *To get into the holiday spirit, many places will be offering discounts or free entrance to those wearing a hanbok or to those people born in the Year of the Monkey (1932, 1944, 1956, 1968, 1980, 1992, 2004).

Dec 4- Mar 16 The Garden of the Morning Calm Lighting Festival

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

“A Hen into The Wild” at The National Gugak Center For some traditional Korean music fun, the National Gugak Center, which aims to preserve and promote the Korean music stylings of yesteryear, welcomes guests for a family friendly performance of “A Hen into The Wild”. The 60-minute show is based on the Korean animation by the same name released in 2011 and is sure to be a fun time for everyone.

Show Times: February 8 at 4pm - 5pm; February 9 at 11am - 12pm and 4pm - 5:00pm; February 10 at 4pm - 5pm Tickets: KRW 30,000 and KRW 40,000 (numerous discount options available) Website: www.gugak.go.kr Directions: Nambu Bus Terminal Subway Station (Line 3, Exit 5).

Take bus 4429 and get off at the center.

• Bangbae Subway Station (Line 2, Exit 1). Take local bus 07, 15 or 17 and get off at the center.

• Naebang Subway Station, (Line 7, Exit 3). Take local bus 07 or 15 and get off at the center.

Slope Check Website Weekday (Mon-Thur) Adults KRW 27,500 / Child KRW 16,500 Weekend (Fri-Sun) Adults KRW 40,000 / Child KRW 30,000 Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul, 60, JangChungdan-Ro, JungGu, Seoul 100-857 Korea, www.banyantreeclub.com

C OMMUNI TY

FOR SOMETHING A BIT MORE SPECIAL, HERE ARE SOME EVENTS TO GET TICKETS FOR NOW:

Dec 4-Feb 29 Ice Rink & Sledding

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

24 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

CoupleTHE Clothing: Relationship glue Hitting the streets of Hongdae, Groove Korea asks some couples why matching outfits are a significant part of their relationship Story by: Anita McKay Translated by: Lee Eun-jung Photos by: Erika Hughes

there’s one thing that South Korea does better than anywhere else, it’s marketing love. Holidays dedicated to couples dominate the calendar — e.g., White Day (March), Rose Day (May), Kiss Day (June), and Hug Day (December) — while those who are unattached are left forced to explain their lack of a significant other. It seems that each month comes with a cutesy stamp of affection that has the potential to ruin relationships if overlooked. Yet one of the most celebrated ways to show your relationship status doesn’t have a special day; rather, it’s all about what you wear and whom you wear it with.

If you’ve been in Korea for more than 24 hours, then there’s a high chance you’ve come across couples clothing: lovebirds out for a stroll in matching sweaters, shoes, bags, hats, or - weather permitting - swimsuits.

Instead of physical public displays of affection, which can draw looks of disdain from passers by, Koreans have opted to advertise their love for each other through their physical appearance — a trend that started after a 90s TV drama featured a couple wearing matching clothes.

Almost three decades later, and a recent shoe-matching display of affection from Kim Tan and Eun Sang on popular K drama Heirs, the trend is still here. With age not a limiting factor in the desire to dress alike, businesses have truly cashed in on this romance trend.

Stores dedicated to selling everything from single matching items to full head-to-toe coordinated outfits are easy to find both online and off. The more adventurous couple can even opt to purchase matching underwear.

But what draws a couple to do something that seems so odd to most expats? In honor of Valentine’s Day this month, Groove Korea asked five couples (so you don’t have to).

Sean and Ki-Hyang

Name: SEAN, 31 AND KI-HYANG, 27 Relationship: TOGETHER FOR ONE YEAR Couple ClothinG: WEARING MATCHING JACKETS Is this the only piece of matching clothes that you own?

SEAN: At the moment it is.

When did you get it?

SEAN: Just two or three weeks ago.

Why did you decide to get matching clothing?

KI-HYANG: I spotted it and thought it would be a good idea to wear the same thing. This is the first thing we have as a matching item.

Do you think it’s important to wear something that is the same?

KI-HYANG: This is how we express our love, by wearing the same item.

Do you like wearing the same item?

SEAN: Sure. It’s about letting people know that she is mine.

So, keep away!

Felicia and Will

C OMMUNI TY

Name: FELICIA, 25 AND WILL, 28 Relationship: TOGETHER FOR FOR TWO YEARS Couple ClothinG: WEARING MATCHING JACKETS AND COLORS

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Why did you decide to get matching clothes?

WILL: I thought it would be cute. Usually when you see strangers out on the street, you don’t see people match so identically.

When you match someone’s clothes with yours, it shows not only a wardrobe in common, but you kind of see a common mindset I guess. (to Felicia): What was your reaction?

FELICIA: I was open-minded. When in Korea…

Do you feel closer when you wear matching clothes?

WILL: I feel more vulnerable.

FELICIA: You stand out a little bit more.

WILL: You set it up and think it would be cute to match, then you actually walk outside on the street and it’s like, Yeah, people are going to be looking at us.

Lee and Oh Name: KIM SOO-BIN, 19

AND HWANG MIN-HO, 22

Relationship: TOGETHER THREE YEARS, Couple ClothinG: WEARING COUPLES

JACKETS AND RINGS

Is this the only piece of couples clothing you own?

KIM: Right now it’s the jumper and rings.

Do you like wearing couples clothing?

HWANG: We have the same bags and shirts as well. We wear them at home.

How long were you together when you bought your first item of couples clothing?

KIM: 100 days Why did you decide to get couples clothing?

HWANG: We share the same identity. Whenever we see couples wearing matching shirts, we thought it looked good.

When did you get matching rings?

HWANG: After two months together.

Hong and Lee

Name: HONG SEUNG-WOO, 29 AND LEE HWA-KYEONG, 24 Relationship: TOGETHER FOR 70 DAYS Couple ClothinG: WEARING MATCHING JACKETS

Kim and Hwang

Name: LEE SEUL-KI, 25 AND OH JI-WON, 23 Relationship: TOGETHER FOR EIGHT MONTHS

Couple ClothinG: WEARING COUPLES BOOTS,

SWEATERS AND SCARVES

Why did you decide to get matching clothing?

OH: I bought us the shoes as a Christmas present.

I thought, because he needed winter shoes, it would be good to buy us the same pair. On every anniversary, we buy a matching clothing item.

Do you like wearing couples clothing?

LEE: Yes. OH: Yes. Why? OH: I like it because I brought it for us.

How did you decide to wear the same clothes?

OH: We just call each other before we meet and say, We should wear this today.

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 25

Is this the only couple’s item you have?

LEE: Yes, we bought it a month-and-a-half ago.

Why did you decide to get matching clothes?

HONG: It was my idea.

We were shopping at a department store and I saw this and thought it would be a good idea to get it as a matching item.

How does it feel when you wear the same clothes?

HONG: It feels like we are more close to each other whenever we wear the same thing.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring

CAFE QUEST

AT COFFEE MONTAGE, WE ARE FOCUSED ON GETTING THE MOST OUT OF THE COFFEE BEAN AS POSSIBLE"

Quench that coffee thirst with four of the best hidden cafés in the city Story and Photos by Cale Noonan

IF

26 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

you’re like me, the coffee experience you get from franchise cafés in Korea just doesn’t quite cut it. They might be good for a caffeine buzz, but if you’re serious about taste and café atmosphere, you need to do a little bit of searching. I can assure you that a trip to any of these four cafés in Seoul will definitely be worth it.

Coffee Libre Coffee Libre is a well-established independent coffee shop in Seoul. First opening in Yeonnam-dong in 2012, it now has other locations in Yeongdeung-po, Myeong-dong, and in Shinsegae at Goseok Bus Terminal. Seating about ten people, the hole-in-the-wall in Yeonnam-dong is a little off the beaten path, but definitely worth the visit.

Coffee Libre serves the traditional favorites: espresso, Americano, mocha, and café latte.

To really experience Coffee Libre’s roasting

expertise, order a coffee from the AeroPress, their preferred brewing method. The AeroPress looks more like what an astronaut might use to brew coffee in space than what is used here on Earth. Total immersion of the coffee beans and slow pressure allow the AeroPress to extract a rich cup of coffee without the bitterness resulting from other methods.

Regardless of what you order, experience the

roasting expertise that makes Coffee Libre’s cup stand out from the rest.

Address: Yeonnam Coffee Libre Yeonnam-dong 227-15, Mapo-gu, Seoul, Station: Hongdae Station (Line 2, Exit 3) Directions: Turn right out and walk straight. Stay left at the Y in the road and walk approximately 300 m until Gimbap Sesang.

Turn left down the alley until you see Coffee Libre.

Cost: All coffees are KRW 4,000 and from KRW 15,000–KRW 20,000 per 200 g bag (which also includes a free coffee).

Address: Coffee Hanyakbang Euljiro 2-Ga 101-34, Jung-gu, Seoul Station: Eulji-ro 3-Ga Station (Line 2, Exit 1) Directions: Go straight and take the first right. Walk until you see a tiny blue alley on your right. Walk until you see Coffee Hanyakbang.

Cost: From KRW 3,500-KRW 6,000 per drink and from KRW 3,500-KRW 5,000 per dessert.

Address: Coffee Montage Seongnae-dong 555-5 Gangdong-gu, Seoul Station: Gangdong-gu Office Station (Line 8, Exit 3).

Directions: Walk straight and take the first left. Take your third left and walk until you see Coffee Montage on your right.

Cost: KRW 3,000 per cup and from KRW 15,000–KRW 30,000 per 200 g bag (includes a free coffee with purchase).

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 27

Address: Hell Café Bogwang-dong 238-43, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Station: Itaewon Station (Line 6, Exit 4) Directions: Take a quick left and a right down Bogwang-ro.

Follow the road for approximately 400 m until you see Hell Café on the left, across from Korea Polytechnic University Cost: From KRW 4,000-KRW 6,500 per cup with ~ KRW 2,000 discount for takeout.

Coffee Hanyakbang also prepare their own beans using a small drum roaster, making the coffee darker and richer than other coffee shops. Offering original blends and single origin coffees, the baristas can also produce coffee based on individual preferences. The Ethiopia Koke Honey is always on the menu, brewed fresh at the hand-drip station with a uniquely pleasant flavor, a mix of amazing sweetness and definite floral and tea notes. If you are not a huge coffee drinker, Hanyakbang also offers various teas and juices, as well as hot chocolate, that are just as satisfying.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Korean roasters often roast coffee beans more lightly to extract the delicate flavors and nuances of each variety. However, at Hell Café, a more traditional style of preparation is used.

Hell Café owner and barista Michi Lim explains, “We like our coffee balanced. We’re not into the acidity and bitterness of coffees that have become so trendy in Seoul.” The beans are patiently roasted in small batches using a hand crank drum roaster, so the beans are darker.

The result is a very rich and full-bodied coffee that excites the taste buds.

Try the delectable pairing of a famous Hell Latte alongside a slice of delicious tiramisu cake. Another must-try is a single origin coffee, which utilizes the traditional pourover method.

Hell Café now also serves some classic cocktails such as gin and tonic, bourbon highball, and even Japanese favorite, Suntory Whisky highball. Whatever the order, don’t miss out on Hell Café.

Coffee Hanyakbang Truly the most hidden of cafes, Coffee Hanyakbang is a two-floor establishment nestled down an almost shoulder-width alley. Hanyakbang is a traditional style Korean pharmacy, and the café’s interior certainly reflects this. Beautifully stained wooden walls and classical Chinese decoration coupled with a wide array of classical and jazz records played on their turntable provide a wonderfully soothing ambiance.

Whether alone or with another, the first floor is the perfect place for a smaller get-together, but for larger groups, the second floor offers tables with more seating.

Coffee Montage Coffee Montage, located on the east side of Seoul, is a great stop-off if you are anywhere near Olympic Park. Husband and wife team Jae Woong Shin and Mi Jung Kwon first opened the café in 2013. Since then, the business has grown and with it, the successful distribution of their beans to cafés all over Seoul. In December 2015, the couple opened a second larger location in Hanam City, where they will expand their roasting operations even further. Jae Woong and Mi Jung explain, “At Coffee Montage, we are focused on getting the most out of the coffee bean as possible.” Although there is no exact formula that applies to all coffee beans, the owners believe that each bean deserves a different kind of attention and method of roasting and extraction.

Since moving their entire roasting operation to Hanam, Jae Woong and Mi Jung have started renovating their Seongnae-dong location. The shop’s large glass windows and concrete flooring give it a sleek, industrial look, but the music, lighting and décor within add a warm and comforting element. The baristas at Coffee Montage are extremely kind and talented, and are dedicated to providing each customer with the exact cup of coffee that they are looking for.

Behind the Coffee Montage counter, an abundance of brewing equipment allows for a wider selection of coffee styles. Alongside the classics, order coffee made using the AeroPress, Chemex, Clever, or V60 Hario brewing methods. The baristas can offer a recommendation for the best brew before preparing a customised delicious cup of coffee.

C OMMUNI TY

Hell Café Hell Café is a quaint little coffee shop located in Bogwang-dong, just outside the hustle and bustle of Itaewon. The storefront is impossible to miss with its large glass windows and jetblack sliding metal door upon which the name is written in both English and Hangeul. Inside, dim lighting and soothing music make the atmosphere of the café very inviting. A mix of small tables and an enormous wooden table attract those looking for a social coffee or a personal time-out.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

CELEBRATING 10 YEARS OF THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Head teacher Daniel Barron shares the secret to success at BIK Hannam

28 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Story by BIK Hannam Photos by: gray-scale.co.kr

many expats living in Korea, the education sector is something that is extremely familiar; either they are themselves educators, or parents of children attending classes at one of the many, many schools available.

For ten years, BIK Hannam - the British International Kindergarten (BIK) in Seoul’s Hannam-dong - has championed the British curriculum as the best option out there for young children whose families wish to give them the best possible start in life. Offering international education to children from all nationalities, all the teachers are qualified at the degree level from their home nation and achieved QTS status before moving overseas.

Head teacher Daniel Barron insists that BIK Hannam provides the nurturing environment necessary for young learners to develop their knowledge of the world around them. “Early Years education is fundamental to learning in later life,” he says. The school offers Enriched Curricular Activities (ECA) writing, science, po-

etry, mathematics as well as specialist instruction for music, Mandarin, Art & Design and more. These activities are accessed weekly by their students. BIK Hannam also provides students with both indoor and outdoor playtime facilities as well as a roof garden and employs an on-site dietician to prepare meals which reach the required nutritional targets.

By the time students leave at the age of 7, BIK Hannam hopes the individuals have encountered experiences and life-long lessons from each of the school’s five core values: Independence, Creativity, Self-Esteem, Diversity, and Health. Through these five core values - which are outcomes achieved in the British Curriculum – the children are truly ready for the next stage of their educational journey.

BIK Hannam caters for the expatriate and local community. The education provided at

the school endeavours to be a truly international experience for all students. However, it is important for the school to remember that it is based in Seoul and as Daniel explains, BIK Hannam never “closes our doors to Korea – – being a member of our host nation has been part of our ethos for a decade now!”

BIK Hannam has a vision of what their community of families should experience, regardless of their nationality. Specifically, Daniel explains how a warm, family environment is conducive to the high quality learning provided by their effective team members, who also help expats maneuver around the language barrier.

Although in only his third year as head, Daniel has been with BIK Hannam since 2010. He and his wife Erica moved to Korea from Scotland when their passion for teaching led them to the enticing world of international educa-

BIK HANNAM IS A VERY COMMUNITY ORIENTATED SCHOOL, ONLY TEACHING STUDENTS AGED 2 TO 7 YEARS OF AGE

C OMMUNI TY

Hannam’s Blue Square Theatre last December.

The event, which married the glamour expected of a decennial party with a family-friendly spirit, showcased performances by students from Reception, Year One and Year Two classes, as well as providing a platform for some very talented parents, including harpist Hahn Haejoo.

Following a very “festive” theme, the event was organized in place of the annual Christmas Carol Concert performed by students. Guests were greeted by decorated trees, holly, tinsel and even a giant life-sized nutcracker doll.

During the 10-Year celebration, a message from the British Ambassador Charles Hay was aired. The ambassador remarked on the achievement of the small school and its More Info: BIK Hannam will also host an international education conference for Early “great teachers (who Years educators (CECEK) on Saturday April 23, 2016. are) well qualified to Address: 124-1 Dokseodang-ro in Hannamdong, (past the ‘UN Village’ on the way to Oksu-dong). teach the British NaTelephone: 02-790-9025. tional Curriculum.”

Website: www.britishschool.co.kr Social media: www.facebook.com/BIKHannamSeoul Guests also heard a For registration enquiries, contact: Mr J. Im (Director of Admissions) message from found02-790-9025 ext 1.

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 29

tion. Following a brief period in the United Arab Emirates, Daniel returned to BIK as part of the school’s management team before becoming head teacher in 2014.

“BIK Hannam is a school which is very close to my heart” explains Daniel. “The most rewarding thing about my job is meeting our truly remarkable students coming through our doors every day, some of whom we have known from a very young age.” As a head teacher, Daniel sees the progress the students make during their school years and certainly, across a longer period of time, which results in immense satisfaction for the head teacher - and their parents who are always commenting on what their child can now do.

BIK Hannam is a very community orientated school, only teaching students aged 2 to 7 years of age. The school is also keen to engage its parent body through their Parent Link association which maximizes the experiences offered for not just the students but for other parents to get involved as well. This was on show at the school’s recent 10-Year Celebration, held in

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

THE EDUCATION PROVIDED AT THE SCHOOL ENDEAVOURS TO BE A TRULY INTERNATIONAL EXPERIENCE FOR ALL STUDENTS".

ing chairman Kevin McNeany, who recalled his vision of a school that would give children “an excellent grounding in early years’ education and an appreciation of the wider world,” before informing guests “I believe that vision has been realised!”

The purpose of the event was not only to celebrate 10 years of the school, but to contribute to the year-round support of the Myongdo Center, an organisation which cares for disadvantaged and disabled children in the Mokpo region of South Korea. BIK Hannanm’s community were delighted to welcome six children from Myongdo along with their teachers and the centre’s founder, Sister Gerardine Ryan, to the event.

This was a return visit for the center, since five of BIK’s eldest students had recently visited Mokpo with their parents.

Donations were encouraged from the assembled party through a live auction of students’ art work and raffles including sponsored prizes from businesses around Seoul. The evening was a huge success and it was later announced that more than KRW 7 million had been raised that evening.

“The next 10 years of BIK Hannam holds much promise for our students, who will benefit from attending a school with such a history and tradition,” says Daniel. “In our 10 years, around 1300 students have enrolled with us, with around 350 completing all five years at the school.” In a city where the education sector is so saturated, it is perhaps gratifying for the head teacher that BIK Hannam has such impressive figures to present as evidence of their success. And with quality teaching and successful learning units, perhaps the next 10 years will see BIK Hannam reach Daniel’s personal aim of having 1000 students complete the full five-year programme with the school.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

THE BIG MISSION FOR THE LITTLE TRAVELLERS IN KOREA Handmade beaded dolls making all the difference

30 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Story by Celeste Maturen Photos by Little Travellers Korea (Douglas Vautour Photography, Margarita Araujo, Corinne Eschenroeder)

ine years ago, Craig Kulyk carried a few beaded dolls, each smaller than his palm, from his native Winnipeg, Canada to his second home in Seoul. It was that simple for a small non-profit South African charity to spread its message - and its

mission - around the Korean peninsula. Nearly a decade on, the sole Asian-based chapter of the NGO has raised more than KRW 65 million for women in the KwaZulu-Natal province who are infected with or affected by HIV/AIDS. The Valley of a Thousand Hills in KwaZulu-Natal is the home of the Hillcrest

AIDS Centre; built in 1990 to battle a harrowing pandemic where a staggering 40% of the proximate adult population is infected with HIV and 50% of the female population test positive for the virus.

Although HIV is no longer a death sentence for patients with access to antiviral drugs,

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

NEARLY A DECADE ON, THE SOLE ASIAN-BASED CHAPTER OF THE NGO HAS RAISED MORE THAN KRW 65 MILLION FOR WOMEN IN THE KWAZULU-NATAL PROVINCE WHO ARE INFECTED WITH OR AFFECTED

BY HIV/AIDS." be taking over Little Travellers Korea completely, his main focus is organizing Rubber Seoul and other music events to support the charity. Last year’s festivities saw more than 750 Seoulites rocking out to local Korean and expat bands, and this year is expected to be even bigger. More than 100 volunteers have helped at Rubber Seoul in past years, and as the event grows, more will be needed. Little Travellers Korea is always looking for volunteers who are dedicated to HIV/AIDS advocacy or just love great music and giving back to their community.

Kulyk is happy to see that Rubber Seoul is still bringing out great bands and raising money for

Little Travellers and HIV/AIDS awareness in Korea. Gillespie is happy to have been a part of the organization and believes its biggest success is the feeling that Little Travellers Korea has given to the venues, bands, volunteers and attendees at Rubber Seoul each year. “I’m very happy to be a part of an event that makes people come together and help others. There are bands, venues and others who look forward to this event and love to be a part of it every year.”

More Info: Want to help right now? Head over to the Little Travellers webpage and shop for your very own Little Traveller doll Facebook: Facebook.com/little.travellers.9?fref+ts Website: www.littletravellers.net

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 31

maintaining a positive outlook on life is an uphill battle. The mission of Little Travellers, the non-profit HIV/AIDS initiative started in 2005 by a Canadian med school student volunteering at the Hillcrest Centre, is to provide financial support to those most affected; all of whom also struggle to provide for their families under a national unemployment rate of 40%.

Those little beaded dolls that Kulyk introduced to Korea in 2007 are the “Little Travellers.” They’re handmade by the women of KwaZulu-Natal affected by HIV and the profits are used to provide salaries for their families, more than 100 in total. Each doll is unique, and most cost just five Canadian dollars. Santas, mermaids and your favorite footballers are among the specialty dolls ranging from USD 7 to USD 10. The most recent numbers released by the organization report profits surpassing USD 300,000 worldwide, with more than 50,000 dolls sold.

Kulyk left Korea in 2009, but Little Travellers Korea lived on. Passing from one organizer to the next, fundraising activities grew in strength and soon annual events were woven into the core of the expat community. Still going strong today, the music festival Rubber Seoul is held annually in support of the NGO. Kulyk co-founded the first event in 2008 in partnership with another HIV/AIDS focused organization, Grassroots Uganda, creating the first annual multi-venue concert for World AIDS Day in Korea. “We wanted to do something around World Aids Day so we could drum up awareness about HIV/AIDS and make the connection that though the numbers were quite small, both were present in Korea,” says Kulyk. In its first year, more than 1000 people attended Rubber Seoul, raising KRW 12 million for the non-profit organization.

Each year Rubber Seoul is a success, thanks in no small part to the venues and bands who donate their space and time, and all of the music lovers in Seoul who come out in support. Caitlin Gillespie, the head organizer from 2013 to 2015, estimates that each Rubber Seoul concert sold between 200 and 300 dolls and raised more than KRW 5 million. Under her guidance, Rubber Seoul changed from an indie-centric event to a multi-genre festival.

“I asked many different kinds of bands to play in hopes of attracting all kinds of music lovers,” says Gillespie, who also focused on bringing more Korean bands into the mix.

Gillespie is due to leave Korea mid-February 2016 and is currently handing over the reins to the new head organizer Shin Gi Yeon.

Shin has a background in music, so while he'll

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

C OMMUNI TY

HIS TIME IN KOREA HAS INFLUENCED HIM MORE AS AN INDIVIDUAL THAN AS A DESIGNER

Story by Xavier Totor Photos by Jorge Gonzalez

32 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

From Seoul to the Big Apple, designer Julian Woodhouse brings his creative flair to menswear ulian Woodhouse, Creative Director of Woodhouse, is guiding his menswear brand into its junior season. With past experience as a stylist, model, blogger, poet, illustrator, dancer, photographer, and designer, his reputation precedes him. There are very exciting things in the future for this young and talented designer. Woodhouse, 26, has already shown at Seoul Fashion Week and is preparing for a show in New York Fashion Week in February.

As he draws more attention from buyers and press, it is a very exciting time to be talking with Julian.

Woodhouse was born to a military family in the US. After completing his international business degree (with a minor in dance), Woodhouse joined the army. This brought him to South Korea, where he has spent the last three years as a first lieutenant.

However, his work in fashion began long before his army career. As a teenager, he found interest in fashion illustration and was offered an internship at the age of 14 in New York City. At college, he began styling for his friends and started writing a fashion blog.

Woodhouse saw a large vacuum in menswear when dressing himself, prompting him

to bring his illustrations to a tailor to create a more personalized look.

It wasn’t until spring 2014 that he started designing professionally with the creation of Woodhouse. The first line, which carried jewelry only, featured a collection of large, bold geometric pieces in brushed gold. His first clothing collection, Resort 16, embodied an intense streetwear aesthetic. Oversized t-shirts with removable panels that doubled as neck pieces, skousers (skirt trousers), and drackets (a dress/tunic/jacket crossover) were all part of an array of quilted denim and bungee cord laced fabric selections created for dramatic effect. His Spring/Summer 2016 collection debuted at Seoul Fashion Week in spring 2015 and saw Julian’s interpretation of menswear hit the runway. The two collections featured higher waistlines and demonstrated the intrinsic attention to detail he had focused on, borrowing from techniques more often seen in womenswear. Woodhouse tells of his time spent illustrating, which inspired him to bring the freedom of womenswear to the menswear market, which is evident from his collections.

Woodhouse began with multiple founding members that have since left the company.

Now under his control, Woodhouse has the ability to work at a pace that he is comfortable with. Keeping up with the increasingly (and lately, overwhelmingly) fast pace of the

C OMMUNI TY

industry, Woodhouse still works full time in the army, in addition to producing his line of clothing. The designer explains, “I love the military for the strength it gave me to do Woodhouse.” Asked about any difficulties he

More Info: All three collections can still be purchased on www. woodhouseofficial.com

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 33

has faced in building a brand on his own, he says that he does struggle with cohesion. “I’m not a marketer, I’m just a crazy person that loves fabric,” he jokes.

Woodhouse designs “for the men that are missing something but don’t know what they’re missing.” His inspiration comes from one of the least fashion conscious men he’s ever met: Jason, a military buddy he met at Camp Casey. Julian has seen his unlikely muse grow more conscious of his clothing and admires him for his emotional reactions to the garments he chooses to wear. This emotional connection to clothing is something that Woodhouse himself reflects on. “I design from my heart,” he says, “I design from my spirit.” He draws creativity from his experiences and is swayed by his emotions, he explains. Woodhouse also draws inspiration from architecture, allowing it to influence an entire silhouette. In his designs, he says he strives for a “cohesiveness of shape.”

His next collection, Fall/Winter 2016, is set to appear at New York Fashion Week in February. Woodhouse is working to balance the excited response he got from the press for his first collection and the wearability that buyers sought in his second collection.

His time in Korea has influenced him more as an individual than as a designer. The Korean obsession with personal appearance has changed the way he looks at himself rather than just the way he designs clothes. Woodhouse has set as his New Year’s resolutions stopping smoking, “divorcing” his insecurities, and keeping his goals in mind. He accredits his success to his ability to set goals and the drive to achieve them. By 25, Woodhouse wanted to be designing professionally and to have fallen in love. With nearly three collections and a wedding under his belt, he has met those goals. The goal for 2016? “I want to be the best new menswear designer at New York Fashion Week.” And with his current track record, I wouldn’t be surprised if he met that, too.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

THE TWO COLLECTIONS FEATURED HIGHER WAISTLINES AND DEMONSTRATE INTRINSIC ATTENTION TO DETAIL, BORROWING FROM TECHNIQUES MORE OFTEN SEEN IN WOMENSWEAR."

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The return of Hongdae’s premier club event returns with a new name and a new outlook

34 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Story by Emma Kalka Photos by Ahn Myung Kyu and Skellio

any long-term expats in Seoul will have memories of Hongdae Club Day: Clubhopping taken to the extreme on the one night a month when KRW 15,000 could get you into nearly every club in the university area.

For almost 13 years, the event has been run by the Hongdae Club Tour Association. It was a way to help bring money into Hongdae area and aid in its development, according to Kim Jung-hyun, chairman of the Hongdae Culture and Tourism Association.

But then, for “many reasons,” Club Day stopped roughly three to four years ago. Kim said it had a lot to do with financial obstacles. However, it didn’t help that at that time clubs lacked legal status.

“In Korea, clubs were not regulated, which means they were not really protected by law… Because they weren’t protected by law, technically they were illegal,” he said. “The clubs were

IN KOREA, CLUBS WERE NOT REGULATED, WHICH MEANS THEY WERE NOT REALLY PROTECTED BY THE LAW… BECAUSE THEY WEREN’T PROTECTED BY THE LAW, TECHNICALLY THEY WERE ILLEGAL. – KIM JUNG-HYUN, CHAIRMAN OF HONGDAE CULTURE AND TOURISM ASSOCIATION

Club Day

falling under constant inspection and getting involved in bribery and that sort of deal.” It was because of this that the club association was initially established to help protect the clubs in the area.

Under Korean law, clubs technically fell under the same category as adult entertainment establishments such as room salons because of three main components – alcohol, dance floors and female hostesses – despite the fact that the clubs did not hire hostesses. Permits for these businesses were limited to designated areas. Hongdae did not have one.

It didn’t help that after the Sewol accident in 2014; the government shied away from large events over safety fears, according to Kim. The club event was almost permanently barred last year due to these concerns.

Luckily for Hongdae clubs, a law passed in 2015 granting them legal status separate from that of room salons that goes into full effect in February this year. With the law came

Until Feb 14 Exhibition A Journey to the modern Seoul City Wall 9am-8pm (Mon-Fri), Sat-Sun 9am-6pm Free, Special Exhibition Room, Seoul City Wall Museum, Seoul Museum of History.

Until Feb 28 Exhibition DMZ & Berlin Wall Exhibit

10am-6pm, KRW 12,000 (discounts available) The War Memorial of Korea

Emma Kalka is a freelance writer who runs the blog “Discovering the Korean Underground” on Tumblr, which focuses on the Korean underground hip-hop scene.

Until Mar 20 Exhibition National Geographic Exhibition: WORLD OF MYSTERY11am-7pm, KRW 8,000 -

KRW 13,000, 2F, Hangaram Art Museum in Seoul Arts Center

Until Mar 29 Exhibition ‘Human Image’: The British Museum Collection

11am-5pm (until 8pm in March), KRW 15,000 (adults), KRW 10,000 (age 7-18), KRW 8,000 (age 5-6), 1F, Hangaram Art Museum in Seoul Arts Center

Feb 4 Film Like For Likes, A Violent Prosecutor

Check general Listings, General release Around Korea

Feb 12 Music Mika 8pm, KRW 88,000 – KRW 132,000, Jamsil Student Gymnasium

Feb 18 Film Dong-Ju: The Portrait of A Poet Check general Listings, General release Around Korea

Feb 21 Music Diana Krall 8pm, KRW 77,000- KRW

154,000, Sejong Center for Performing Arts

Bon Iver

9pm, KRW 80,000 - KRW 100,000, MUV Hall

Feb 27 Music Club Day Check venues, KRW 25,000

Uniqlo AX, ww:ax-korea.co.kr/newhome/index. asp

Mar 21 Music The Beach Boys

8pm, KRW 195,000 – KRW 345,000, Grand Ballroom, The Conrad Seoul

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 35

considered artists in Korea like other countries, and the scene as a whole. “We gave freedom to the club owners to play whatever music they want or do any sort of artsy stuff that they would like to do. We’re basically trying to make the club scene bigger than it’s been in the past,” he said.

He also hopes that Club Tour becomes a nonage restrictive place where people of all ages – not just the young - can enjoy a night out.

“I, myself, am in my 40s, but I still enjoy going to clubs,” he laughed.

Kim’s desire to help protect and develop Hongdae stems from growing up in the area. He attended school there and watched it transform from an abandoned rail line to a mecca for artists of all kinds. Before taking over as chairman of the culture and tourism association, he spent over a decade working as an assistant to a lawmaker trying to pass the new club law.

He said there is still more work for the Hongdae association to do. Next up, they are working to develop tour packages focusing on food, shopping and music in tandem with the more than 200 registered guesthouses in Hongdae. Also, they are creating an app that will help users tour hidden gems List of participating in the area that might Club Tour clubs: be difficult to find down BRAND NU small side streets. It will Cocoon CREAM be available in Korean, Dorocy Lounge Pub & English, Chinese and Dining Japanese.

FF Gogo’s The tour packages Gogo’s 2 and app will hopefully IN2DEEP Inssum help Hongdae become M2 The Club “a well-known tourist Madholic spot worldwide.” For MAMA Lounge Club Club MOTI now, Club Day is sure Nb1 to help uncover the Nb2 PAPA GORILLA Hip-hop thriving music scene Club that Hongdae has to SUPER7 offer.

Vera Hybrid Club

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

legal protection and safety regulations. “Now clubs will be different and are distinguished from adult entertainment establishments,” Kim said. After the law passed, the club association decided it was time to bring back Club Day, now renaming it Club Tour, which Kim said is to create easier access for foreigners.

It started in August 2015 with just a handful of clubs in the area, but now Club Tour boasts 18 clubs in its lineup, ranging from small to large, hip-hop to EDM and even a few live clubs. Kim said they are constantly adding new names to the list, which can be found on the Club Tour website, www.theclubtour.org.

It takes place every last Saturday of the month, so as not to interfere with an event run by a separate organization on the last Friday of the month – Live Club Day. Tickets are KRW 25,000 and allow entry into all clubs on the list for the entire night as well as discounts at certain businesses. They can be bought online at the website or at the main ticket booth in front of SangSang Madang.

After running Club Day for so long, the association drew from its experiences to make more changes.

In the past they focused more on providing material aid to the clubs, but now are putting more emphasis on helping develop content.

“Instead of just dancing at a club, we’re trying to develop actually experiencing the arts and different kinds of music and performances,” Kim said. “And during the daytime, the clubs are empty, so we’re trying to use those spaces and do new things… We’re trying to bridge between the artists who need a space and the people who have space.”

More than that, Kim said he and the organization don’t want clubs to become only about making money, but also about building up the community. It is about helping different types of artists, such as DJs who are not

10am-8pm (Tues-Fri), 10am-6pm (SatSun), KRW 13,000 (adults), KRW 10,000 (Children), Seoul Museum of Art, 61 Deoksugung-gil , Jung-gu, Seoul, 100-813

ENTERTAINMENT

Until March 13 Exhibition Hyundai Card Culture Project 19: Stanley Kubrick

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

A HIPHOP STAGE FOR “EVERYONE” rappers looking to gain experience. “The reality is many chances to step up to the stage are disappearing, causing many rappers either to become studio rappers or perform with a short number or even no audience at all,” says rapper A.Jack, a regular competitor. “Rappers like us are eager to perform more on stage at our best and I believe the rappers who participate in Everyone’s Mic are doing a great job trying to fix these problems.”

Story by Emma Kalka Everyone’s Mic was started in December 2012 Photos by Jay Logic by veteran rappers MC Meta and Nachaal, who make up the duo Garion. The show continues many new rappers on Korea’s a tradition that dates back to their beginnings hip-hop scene, opportunities in the 90s. Back then, MC Meta would open up to perform are few and far be- the stage after shows to whoever wanted to try tween. Big clubs and festivals performing.

The show wrapped up its third season in often only book famous acts, and high rental fees make other venues off limits to new rap- November, which took place at hip-hop club pers with little or no money. Many rappers are Cream every other Sunday and was sponsored by athletic brand Fila. Season four is set to start thus relegated to busking in the streets.

Which is why the open mic competition in March.

According to Everyone’s Mic Facebook page, Everyone’s Mic (모두의 마이크) has become an important part of the hip-hop scene for new each show has space for 36 performers and

36 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

An open-mic competition provides an opportunity to new rappers of all ages

three judges – Nachaal, music critic Kim Bohyun, and a guest judge. Participants sign up on the day of the show – sometimes as early as 9am – on a first come, first served basis. It is open to amateur rappers of all ages, and though it is primarily geared towards Korean rappers, foreign rappers are welcomed. The shows starts around 6:30pm.

Each show is split into two sections. In the first, each rapper is given a beat and allowed one verse – either freestyle or prepared as long as it is the participant’s original work.

From there, the top 10-20 percent from round one go through to round two, where they perform an original song. From those, the top three are chosen based on the judges’ scores and an audience vote. Each receives points and at the end of the whole season, the three with the most points receive awards that help them to debut as artists.

According to MC Meta, the winner of season three – a rapper named Skillito - was given a free music video, coaching by Garion, beats produced by veteran producer Keeproots, and

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

high school kid - so he can say, ‘I can perform, not only for myself, but I can also perform in front of all these people and be known by people.’ Which is great,” MC Meta says.

He said that he is also very thankful to the sponsor, Fila, without which they wouldn’t have been able to rent the venue or provide such big prizes, as well as all the guest judges who took time out of their busy schedules.

Season three saw the likes of Beenzino, Jerry.K, Deepflow, Eluphant and Tablo gracing the guest judge chair.

For the competitors, Everyone’s Mic is not just a chance to perform, but also to meet other rappers. Keezy, another participant, believes it is important for MCs to come together and share their experiences.

He added that the show is important for the community because in hip-hop culture, rappers need to share their messages with each other.

“Like JJK-hyung said, MCs must come out to the stage and grab the mic and spread their messages. As a result, this movement could

help out with building the basic part of hip-hop culture in Korea.”

A.Jack argues that, along with few performance opportunities, there are also not enough opportunities for listeners to fully embrace rappers. But Everyone’s Mic, which saw its crowd size double and triple over season three, provides that.

“When seeing rappers who rap better than I do, it gives me determination to hustle harder and become a better rapper. The more you try, the better the results, such as gaining confidence, being able to communicate with many rappers, and even opening the ears of many listeners and have them listen to your music often,” he says.

“I strongly believe Everyone’s Mic is playing an important role in improving the hip-hop community in many ways and hope that the improvements continue.”

To follow updates on season four of Everyone’s Mic, check out their Facebook page by searching “모두의 마이크”. https://www.facebook.com/everyonesmic/?fref=ts

Emma Kalka is a freelance writer who runs the blog “Discovering the Korean Underground” on Tumblr, which focuses on the Korean underground hip-hop scene.

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 37

media monitoring by media writer Kim. Second place, Jackal, received everything except the music video and third, Bray, received just the beats.

MC Meta says that he started Everyone’s Mic and opened it up to performers of all ages in order to give new rappers a chance to build their own performance styles and learn to tell their own stories in their own ways.

“It might appear dangerous – though I guess it’s safer than in the U.S. – to let minors into a club. However, all these teens – these young guys – they don’t have stages,” he said. “They are eager to rap. They want to perform… So, I decided, let’s include the young kids as well.”

He recalled one instance from this past season where a high school student competed and ended up beating Skillito, the season winner.

He said watching that show left a strong impression on him. He felt as though he helped provide this opportunity to a young kid who otherwise may have just been known as “that kid who raps” among his classmates.

“I provided them with confidence - to this

K–FILM: THREE BY… DIVERSITY

February’s K-Film releases bring a melting pot of genres to the big screen

38 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos courtesy of HanCinema

February is a particularly diverse month in terms of Korean film releases, with the big three cinematic events of the month featuring an action cop-thriller, an indie offering exploring the life of a Korean poet during the Japanese occupation, and a quirky modern romantic-comedy inspired by Facebook. There really is something for everyone this February.

LIKE FOR LIKES RELEASE DATE: February DIRECTED BY: Park Hyun-jin STARRING: Yoo Ah-in, Lee Mi-yeon, Kang Ha-neul, E-som DISTRIBUTED BY: J Entertainment helmed Lovers of Six Years (2008) and episode two of omnibus tale Remarkable Woman (2014). However, Like for Likes marks her biggest release yet with its eclectic and talented cast. Particularly, the appearance of red-hot star Yoo Ah-in is likely to attract plenty of audience interest and could propel the film to something of a sleeper hit.

DID YOU KNOW? Initially the film was due to be called Happy Facebook, and then later Happy Log-in, before finally settling on Like for Likes.

ENTERTAINMENT

Romantic-comedy Like for Likes tells the stories of three couples as they become increasingly romantically involved through using social media website Facebook. In doing so, the story reveals the excitement as well as the pitfalls of using the site in the development of modern romance.

Director Park Hyun-jin is no stranger to the romantic-comedy genre having previously

A VIOLENT PROSECUTOR RELEASE DATE: February 4 DIRECTED BY: Lee Il-Hyeong STARRING: Hwang Jeong-min, Kang Dong-won DISTRIBUTED BY: Showbox/Mediaplex

Prosecutor Jae-Wook is one of the toughest in Korea, earning a reputation for relentlessly pursuing justice no matter the cost. However, while investigating his latest case, a suspect is found dead. With all the evidence pointing towards him, the prosecutor receives a 15-year jail sentence. While in prison, Jae-Wook meets charming con-man Chi-won, and the duo join forces to escape and get revenge on all those who have

wronged them. A Violent Prosecutor is helmer/scribe Lee Il-Hyeong’s directorial debut, having worked as an assistant on summer blockbuster Kundo in 2014. He has assembled quite a team for his first effort with lead actors Hwang Jung-min and Kang Dong-won - some of the most famous, and bankable, stars in the industry - making A Violent Prosecutor the biggest Korean cinematic event of the month.

DID YOU KNOW? Lead actor Hwang Jung-min’s last three films - Ode to My Father, Veteran, and The Himalayas - have taken over USD 225 million at the Korean box office, and all three were distributed through CJ Entertainment

THE PORTRAIT OF A POET RELEASE DATE: February 18 DIRECTED BY: Lee Joon-ik STARRING: Kang Ha-neul, Park Jung-min, Choi Hee-seo DISTRIBUTED BY: M-Line Distribution sentenced to two years in prison, where he ultimately died at the age of 27. Curiously, after helming the big-budget period drama The Throne, director Lee Joon-ik has chosen to dabble in history once more through independent channels. Dong-ju has been filmed in black and white, which is quite a rarity in Korean cinema, and features some of Korea’s youngest rising stars.

DID YOU KNOW? Dong-ju: Portrait of a Poet will be the seventh historical drama in director Lee Joon-ik’s filmography, which includes renowned modern classic The King and the Clown and last year’s The Throne, Korea’s submission for Academy Award consideration.

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 39

Dong-ju: The Portrait of a Poet is based on the fraught life and times of one of Korea’s most celebrated poets.

Born in 1917, Dong-ju endured much of his life under Japanese occupation, including graduating from what is now known as Yonsei University.

In 1942, he moved to Japan to study English literature and while there, was arrested as a “thought-criminal” for his resistance poetry. He was later

The Story of a Scar DMZ and Berlin Wall Exhibit at The War Memorial of Korea

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Story by Rob Shelley / Photos courtesy of Berlin Eastside Gallery Association, Korea DMZ Research Institute and Rob Shelley

Marilyn Monroe perfroming for US forces in Korea, 1954

40 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Korean peninsular-DMZ, NLL and 38th parallel

Military Demarcation Line Board-2

nyone who has spent time in Korea is aware of the geographical and psychological scar that is the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). At the conclusion of the Korean War, the DMZ was set up as a buffer between the two Koreas, effectively cutting the peninsula in two. It is 4 km deep and runs roughly across the 38th parallel for 250 km, coast-to-coast. Now a group of storytellers have created an exhibit called DMZ Story, showing at the War Memorial until February 28. In conjunction with an exhibit from Germany, the collection features artwork from the Berlin Wall, which helps complement the theme of civil divide.

Certainly there are enough stories of the Korean War to fill a whole exhibit. But the DMZ Story is not only about the war. It’s about the strangeness and absurdity of having a line of scrimmage drawn between two halves of the same civilization. It’s about the story of the physical and psychological scars that this barrier has created.

I was shown the exhibit by Organizing Committee member Han Sang-Ryong. Pointing at a painting of one snowy Korean War battle by artist Kim Mi Jung, Han tells the story of thousands of soldiers on both sides, freezing at temperatures hovering around -30°C; so cold that the guns often blew up when fired and bodies often froze as they were shot down.

Han is something of a master story-teller. He has been researching stories about the DMZ for years and is proud to showcase this exhibit of stories.

One story is of two competing dams near Geumgang Mountain. North Korea built one for electricity, but the South feared its military potential. So they spent over US$400 million to build a dry dam, named the Peace Dam, in case the North manufactured a flood to attack Seoul. “The purpose of building a dam is to contain water,” Han explains. “But this dam was never built to contain a single drop of water. In the 20th century, we were doing this stupid kind of action.”

The exhibit shows that much of the legacy of the DMZ is one of shame, regret, and absurdity.

“How do we Koreans feel about the DMZ?” Han asks. “This is the barrier which is preventing our

“WE FEEL SORRY ABOUT IT. OUR ANCESTORS GAVE US THIS LAND AS A WHOLE, SINGLE LAND BUT WE HAVE DIVIDED [IT] AND STILL HAVE NOT MADE UNIFICATION. WE FEEL SORRY TO OUR GREAT, GREAT GRANDFATHERS. ALSO TO OUR CHILDREN, IF WE HAVE TO GIVE [THIS LAND] TO THEM STILL DIVIDED.” - HAN SANG-RYONG." ENTERTAINMENT

unification. We feel sorry about it. Our ancestors gave us this land as a whole, single land but we have divided [it] and still have not made unification. We feel sorry to our great, great grandfathers. Also to our children, if we have to give [this land] to them still divided. It is a kind of scar of the war. We live [with] a big, huge scar on our lovely land. So, we are sorry.”

But for those who yearn for unification, there are hopeful stories. One is about a surprising archaeological find. In 1978, US Air Force senior airman Greg Bowen was walking near the DMZ in Yeongcheon when he noticed a strange rock.

It was a specialized hand axe. “The textbooks had to be rewritten," laughs Han, acknowledging the importance of the find. Archaeologists had previously believed that such sophisticated tools of the Paleolithic era existed only in the Western world. It leaves one imagining what could be found if the DMZ were opened up to archaeologists. Han thinks that there is a lot that could be found, including buried treasure—or at least buried artwork. And there’s a story behind that as well.

The ecosystem of the DMZ has its own stories.

One installation describes dandelion flowers, carried up the mountains on the boots of Korean War soldiers, now covering the mountain where a battle had taken place. Poetically, the flowers now mark the resting place of the dead who carried them there. In another area of the DMZ, the war is still being fought. Two competing weeds brought by Chinese and American soldiers wage a fierce territorial battle, sixty years on. Another story, perfect for kids and romantics, recounts a loyal female crane standing vigil over its fallen mate inside the DMZ. There are other facets of the DMZ Story exhibit to be discovered, including the village that resettled nearby after a typhoon, the continual propaganda war and its impact on wildlife, and more.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Zone 2 is the meat of the DMZ Story exhibit. It includes three paintings plus maps, photographs, and installations that help tell the story of the DMZ from many angles.

Zone 3 is a multimedia presentation of aspects of the DMZ Story. It includes video, photographs, and a special VR installation. Guests can strap into a Virtual Reality headset and take a look around a photographed setting near the DMZ.

More info: The exhibit runs until February 28 at the War Memorial of Korea in Yongsan Special Exhibition Gallery (Room 1 & 2). The exhibit is open from 10am-6pm, but closed on Mondays. Regular tickets are KRW 12,000 with discounts available for groups, seniors, children, and students. Military Service men and women will also receive discounts.

Rob Shelley writes about craft beer and keeps the Korean Beer Directory and Upcoming Events page at www.CraftBeerAsia.com/Korea

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 41

The exhibit is divided into three zones Zone 1 features the Berlin Wall Gallery. After the fall of the Berlin Wall, artists from around the world gathered to paint on the remaining segments of the once ominous barrier.

Prints of the best of these original, political art pieces help tell the story of the 20th century’s most famous geopolitical border.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

NOW ENTERING ITS FIFTH YEAR, THE LEAGUE OFFERS TWO GAMES EACH SATURDAY MORNING FOR ANYONE WHO FANCIES TAKING TO THE MOUND, SWINGING FROM HOME PLATE OR JUST WHILING AWAY YOUR TIME OUT IN LEFT FIELD.

YEARS OF UP BATTER Story by Liam Ring Photos by Seoul Baseball League

42 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

The Seoul Baseball League prepares for another season on the diamond

t

ers often head to one of the bars for Saturday evening drinks. Bars also host one evening a season with special drinks and food deals for members of the league, allowing for plenty of camaraderie and socialising to take place.

A “new players’ day” is planned for early next month when prospective players will have the chance to meet the team captains and play a practice game. From there, all members will be added to the start of season draft at Route 66 in Itaewon before the first round of matches. Teams will play between eight and twelve rounds with each game lasting seven innings over the season before the end of season playoffs and banquet. So whether you can hit, pitch, field or just feel like meeting some new people and picking up a new sport, the SBL has

a place on the roster for you. Time to swing for that outfield fence.

THE KRW 60,000 PLAYING FEE GOES TOWARDS PAYMENT FOR UMPIRES, EQUIPMENT SUCH AS BATS AND BALLS, AND THE END OF SEASON BANQUET.

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

The League is indebted to the great sponsorship from Dillinger's, Phillies, Route 66, Beer O'Clock, and Wolfhound.

The SBL will be back in action from mid-March at Gwacheon Government Complex (Line 4, Exit 8).

For further information, join the Seoul Baseball League Facebook page.

Contact email: Seoulbaseballleague2015@gmail.com

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 43

aturday mornings over the past five years have meant one thing to Seoul Baseball league (SBL) commissioner Ryan Burda. Sprouting from three-on-three games with friends, the opening season of the SBL in 2011 gave expatriates the chance to play America’s game in the Korean capital. Now entering its fifth year, the league offers two games each Saturday morning for anyone who fancies taking to the mound, swinging from home plate or just chilling out in left field.

Each team is sponsored by one of five bars around Seoul, with jerseys and caps supplied for each team member. Players need to bring their own pants, glove and cleats, but the league itself supplies the other equipment.

The KRW 60,000 playing fee goes towards payment for umpires, equipment such as bats and balls, and the end of season banquet. The league has the typical volatility in membership that all organizations encounter in Seoul, with 34 new players in Spring 2015 equating to an almost 50% turnover.

Nevertheless, Burda sees the possibility of having a sixth team competing this season if the league can recruit some strong throwing arms.

One of the league’s biggest challenges is in ascertaining a player’s skills in order to try and have reasonably balanced sides for the draft. Here is where the “skills sheet” becomes important, with new players encouraged to rate themselves according to their ability levels. It is here that modesty, Burda recalls, can have an impact. “You’ll get people under-selling their abilities a lot. Then you see them on the mound and think, ‘Wow! You can really throw!’” From there, the draft takes place at one of the participating bars, with all players divided into different teams. The draft can be one of the biggest social events of the calendar, with players old and new meeting up to discuss their love of the game over a few pints. From there it is onto the diamond, with teams usually made up of thirteen to fourteen players to allow for some not being able to make it every Saturday.

Played from March until June, the top four sides then play the semi-finals and final on the last Saturday of the season. Phillies in Haebongchon are the defending champions going into this season and, as champions, will be hosting the Spring tournament’s end of season banquet. However, although competitive, there is a lot more to the SBL than just end of season glory. With hot dogs and pulled pork sandwiches at reasonable prices courtesy of Seth Freeman, there’s every opportunity for players to have a snack and a beer during breaks in play. Post-game, play-

“BE MORE HUMAN” PROJECT

44 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

Story by Michael Burkhardt Photos by The Be More Human Project

Social, mental, and physical fitness in the outdoors

a crisp December morning, under the watchful presence of Namsan mountain, as Itaewon's spent barbecue coals cool down on the streets below and the last wisps of smoke dissipate from the evening's revelry, the sounds of laughter coupled with feet biting into the damp earth wind through the woods. Dozens of organic engines burn food into heat and energy, emitting vapor trails of perspiration and puffs of metabolized carbon dioxide gas into the air and drops of briny sweat on the ground.

These are the sounds (and sights) of people being human.

The "Be More Human” Project, BMHP for short, is a community-based fitness group that meets in area parks for a variety of creative group exercises, challenging drills, and fun activities. Whether it's racing around town on an interactive scavenger hunt, shouldering large rocks while running uphill, or high-fiving other group members

OUR AIM IS TO GIVE PEOPLE THE OPPORTUNITY TO GET STRONGER, FASTER, AND HEALTHIER; PHYSICALLY, MENTALLY AND SOCIALLY. THIS MAKES US BETTER PARENTS, BETTER LEADERS, BETTER WORKERS, AND OVERALL, BETTER PEOPLE." CODY HUNTER – FOUNDER OF THE BE MORE HUMAN PROJECT"

while running across the Banpo bridge, every workout is designed to be fun and interactive, and help to tune both the body and mind.

According to BMHP founder Cody Hunter, workouts are designed to focus on the connection between mental and physical fitness, with an emphasis on becoming better at life, rather than specific sports or competitions.

Although there are other fantastic groups in Seoul with their own approaches to fitness, BMHP's holistic philosophy makes it unique. "Our aim is to give people the opportunity to get stronger, faster, and healthier; physically, mentally and socially. This makes us better parents, better leaders, better workers, and overall, better people," says Hunter.

As a free service, BMHP also plays a valuable role in the community. "We love to promote other groups, businesses and communities. Members from other gyms join us regularly, and our members also join their workouts. We enjoy bringing people

"T he BMHP's diverse approach to fitness is reflected in the background of its team members," Head Coach T.J. Quinn Challenge, which is a paid lifestyle challenge where coaches set social, mental and physical goals for participants, pushing them to be stronger and healthier in life, and more present in relationships. Also, due to BMHP's success, the team is assembling free toolkits to help other new coaches start their own projects and expand to other cities around Korea. More humans in more places, being more human. Sounds like a good thing.

SPORTS

Beef up your vocabulary fitness with some fitness vocabulary!

GPP

General Physical Preparedness

WOD

Workout of the Day

AMRAP

As Many Rounds as Possible

WOD routines are often repeated, either inside a time limit (RFT) or until you're too tired to continue (AMRAP)

RFT

Rounds for time

See above

SMP

Social Mental Physical

A holistic approach to fitness, the mantra of the Be More Human campaign.

PR

Personal Record

Competing against yourself is a powerful way to become fitter

General conditioning exercises that work all the major muscles and joints, not focused on a specific sport.

A recipe of sweet pain your coach has planned for your exercise routine.

Air Squats

Place both feet shoulder-width, squat down till the thighs are parallel to the ground, raise the arms forward and parallel to the ground, and then stand back up. Repeat.

Lunges

Take a long stride forward, bending the leading knee to a 90-degree angle, then continue forward with the other leg.

Burpees

The most loved and hated tool in a coach's arsenal. Drop down, do a push up, stand back up, jump with your hands in the air. Repeat. A lot.

BMHP on Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/BeMoreHumanProject/ Hunter Coaching Lab on Facebook: www.facebook.com/huntercoachinglab/ 30 Days to Evolve Project contact: evolve@bmhproject.com

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 45

**Note: this is not a fitness guide, simply a list of important words.

To properly perform these exercises, consult a BMHP coach or refer to other resources online.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

together from different fitness and lifestyle backgrounds and giving them a place to meet new people and grow," Hunter continues. For some folks that are tired of the bar scene, the group provides a different way to connect with people and make new friends.

Also, according to Hunter, it's been equally popular with both expats and locals, and has been a great way for these cultures and communities to mix.

Hunter, a former rugby player from New Zealand, came to Korea in 2005 and was the first in the country to start organizing fitness boot camps in Namsan Park in 2009. Since then, he has opened several gyms in the area and recently partnered with Reebok in early 2015 to create the Be More Human Project, which has been really popular. Hunter remembers that five “humans” came to the first BMHP session in Banpo Park early last year, and workouts quickly grew to over 100 during the summer months.

To help accommodate this growth, a cadre of coaches who share the same vision joined the project. "BMHP's diverse approach to fitness is reflected in the background of its team members," underlines head coach T.J. Quinn, a former soldier with a background in hand-to-hand combat and mountain biking. Rounding out the coaching crew is Lauren, who has a strong background in meditation and general fitness, Ian, who has expertise in strength training, and Minji and Hailey, who have specializations in long-distance running and yoga.

BMHP workouts and events are open to everybody and are held on Saturday mornings at 10:00am. Often one of the coaches hosts a smaller workout session during the week as well. Most sessions begin with a welcome from the lead coach, an introduction of new members, and a warm up consisting of breathing exercises, meditation, or other social icebreakers. The Workout Of the Day (WOD) is the main part of every session, and is tailored to test your social, mental, and physical (SMP) boundaries. Sometimes, people need to remember a long set of random numbers while running 500 m, carry each other 1000 m in teams of three, or test communication skills by leading a partner blindfolded on an uphill run. The WOD almost always includes a generous helping of the vegetables of every workout: burpees, lunges and air squats. Afterwards, the group gathers for a few yoga poses, stretches, and a short feedback session with an update of upcoming events. Check out their Facebook page or group for more specific information.

Hunter and his crew have big plans for the Be More Human Project this year. The group will continue to offer their 30 Days to EVOLVE

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

ALL

TOUCH

The Korea Touch Association enter the 2016 season with new plans and new challenges

BUT NO TACKLE

46 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Story by Dain Leathem Photos by Korea Touch Association

winter so the ball and boots are sadly in the cupboard for now, but while there are no games or tournaments happening right now, behind the scenes preparation is well under way for the 2016 season. Running from mid-March until October, the new season will be building on last year’s ultra-competitive tournaments.

While previous years had seen one or two teams dominate the sport in Korea, last year saw 9 different teams come out on top in different events, as only the Exiles and IG.R.C. were

able to win more than one title. It truly was our most keenly contested season ever.

Each tournament has 2 or three divisions depending on how many teams register. Registration begins two weeks prior to each tournament, and teams choose which division they want to play in. Premier is our most competitive division and features many players who have been playing touch for ten years or more, and at the other end we have the social division, for players more focused on having a good time.

Anyone is able to join our tournaments, they can find a team online or even just come down

on the day, and we can always find a place for them. For those who haven't played much or at all, definitely the best thing is to come down to Saturday social games and a member of the KTA can help teach the rules and skills needed to play.

One of the highlights of last season was the improvements of the two teams made up of Japanese players largely based in Korea, who made many finals in both divisions and won their first premier division final in August. Both Touch Luck and the more experienced Enjoy Touch teams have been steadily improving over the last three years, and their skills have started

to match their passion and fitness. Their victory in the final minute of the Busan tournament over the Sentinels saw the loudest celebrations heard on the field all year. It’s been great to have their enthusiasm and energy and we really appreciate what they bring to the pitch.

With the obvious close connection between full contact and touch rugby, rugby teams from the Seoul Survivors and Seoul Sisters and Busan managed to join in the occasional tournament, and we also had a team made up entirely of employees of Shell and their families. This

from all over the country can join us for our five 2016 tournaments. Following on from the success of the 2014 Busan Tournament, two events were held down south in 2015, and this trend will no doubt continue. The Korea Touch Association (KTA) always plans tournaments to try and attract as many teams and players as possible, and for those looking to join in this year, we will offer training and an open day so that you can join a team, or you could even enter your very own team. Contact us for information on Touch Rugby rules, our tournament schedule,

THIS DOESN’T MEAN THAT TOUCH RUGBY IS JUST FOR THOSE WHO LIKE REGULAR RUGBY UNION, AS WE HAVE HAD TEAMS FROM THE SEOUL GAELS GAELIC FOOTBALL TEAM, SOCCER PLAYERS, AND OTHERS WHO JUST WANT TO TRY SOMETHING FUN."

and with any other questions. Japan’s fantastic performances at the 2015 World Cup have made people around the globe begin to take Asian rugby seriously, and with the Brave Blossoms hosting the 2019 Rugby World Cup – the first time it will be held in Asia - it is expected that rugby will get a huge surge in popularity in South Korea and the KTA hopes that the same can be said for touch rugby. Rugby 7’s will also be in this year’s Olympic Games, so it means exciting times for the sport in general.

A big change for the 2016 season is in our offfield structure, with three members of the KTA board stepping down due to business and study commitments, so new members are not only welcome, but really needed to help promote and manage the sport in Korea, with monthly meetings held to plan the five main tournaments, weekly social touch, and parties. For those interested in playing, including beginners who have never even seen a touch ball before,

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

simply follow the KTA on Facebook, where the dates for social touch and the 2016 Open Day will be posted well in advance. We expect weekly social touch to start up in late March or April, and will let you know as soon as it’s warm! We hope to see both faces old and new on the field this year.

Contact the Korea Touch Association at koreatouch@gmail.com Follow the KTA on Facebook at www.facebook.com/ koreatouch

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 47

doesn’t mean that touch rugby is just for those who like regular rugby union, as we have had teams from the Seoul Gaels Gaelic Football team, soccer players, and others who just want to try something fun. With different divisions and bonus points for tries scored by female and underage players, the aim is for touch rugby to be something that everyone can try. Along with teams from Busan, Anseong, and Ilsan, there are teams that regularly play in Paju and Ulsan to name a few places, so we hope that people

Story by Luke Butcher Photos by Seoul International Soccer Club

A home away from home

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

The SISC offers a great option for expats wanting to play the beautiful game.

you are looking for the oldest expat football team in South Korea, Seoul International Soccer Club (SISC) is about as close to a founding father team as you can get. First formed all the way back in 1983, the “old boys” of the team were responsible for setting up the Saturday league and have made a team with some real history and character. And when the football is all done, as the team motto goes, they have no sponsor and they drink where they want.

The SISC has long been part of the expat community and over the last 36 years have had players from over 20 countries and from as many different backgrounds as you can imagine. From those in Seoul teaching to state agents and even ambassadors, the team has been a second family for football enthusiasts and those looking for a weekend escape. The only requirements to join are at least a basic level of skill, time to make

48 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

IF

it to as many games in the season as possible, and most importantly an enthusiasm to get fully involved with the team socially as well.

Back when the team started, expat football looked very different. Jacques Bastiani, the George Washington of the team and a man with a history in South Korea that would take up its own article, founded the team under the name Seoul International Soccer Club to immediately poke fun at the Brits who had already set up an expat team here.

“The name Seoul International Soccer Club was chosen because we are just that, an international team. We have players on the team from Japan, Korea, Hong Kong, USA, Ireland, Ivory, Zambia, France, Uzbekistan, England, Germany, Italy, Romania, and more” highlights Scott Finch, one of the longest serving players. All of the players named the variety of backgrounds on the team as its greatest strength.

For the best part of 20 years they only played friendlies, refusing to join the Sunday league because of the preference of having a free evening after the game to celebrate victories or drown out losses without having to worry about the rigours of work the next day. That all changed in 2003, when finally SISC brought together five other teams to form a Saturday league. Originally, other squads were generally made up of players of one nationality like the Russian and German teams, or by area or group like the Itaewon team or the “Soccer in Love” Christian team, but now the teams are much more diverse.

The league has grown quickly, and now there are two divisions made up of eight teams each and a league sponsor that will provide kits to all first division teams. Games on dirt pitches have been virtually outlawed, and there are two seasons a year running in the spring and autumn.

“The league level has gone up, not so sure about

“WE HAVE NO SPONSOR; WE DRINK WHERE WE WANT.”

the upcoming season beginning in March, with friendlies organized for February for players to come along and see if they enjoy being part of the team. Joining SISC is good for everyone from the hardcore football lover to the casual player looking for a good time on the weekend, and it won’t just mean being part of a team, it will mean being part of a family as well. In the words of team-veteran Scott, “We often celebrate holidays together, take trips together, and help each other when needed. I can't imagine what I would do on the weekend without SISC.”

Contact: To enquire about joining the team, email seoulinternsoccerclub@hotmail.com or contact Paul Bourke on Kakao ID paulyb. Fees are 120,000 a season (80,000 for students), which includes kit and the cost of pitch rental for 14 games.

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 49

rigging the league, they haven’t been doing a good job of it. The SISC will even put players in touch with other teams if they can’t find a space for them in their own line-up.

The attitude of the team can be summed up by the chants about the players and the club.

They most famously sing, “We have no sponsor; we drink where we want,” a nod to the team refusing to take deals with bars and restricting their social venue for evenings after the game. A brief flirtation with sponsorship ended quickly and the team is now back to its roots. The team’s motto is also, "It's about the club not the cup," and have even rejected a top player who left the team for another and then asked to make a return. The jokes now made between the team and player that will remain nameless are probably not printable, but the relationship between everyone remains close.

The team is currently looking for players for

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

our team!” according to Dan Ciura, the team’s Romanian representative since he came to South Korea right around the time of the formation of the league.

But it is not all about footballing glory for the SISC. Although they want to win and play with a competitive spirit, the history of the team and the mixed group means it is just as much about being part of a small family as it is about prowess on the pitch. “As long as you are half-decent but you’re willing to come out, we will take you on” states Paul Bourke, this year’s captain.

“It’s a social team,” he continues.

Despite other teams accusing the SISC of bias because Jacques and Scott continue to administer the league and keep it running smoothly, SISC have won the league first division championship once since 2003 and have even bounced between the first and second division a couple of times. If they have been

SPORTS

ALL OF THE PLAYERS NAMED THE VARIETY OF BACKGROUNDS ON THE TEAM AS ITS GREATEST STRENGTH."

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

CH SING YOUR BEANS A Buyer’s and Drinker’s Guide to Yielding a Better Brew

Story by Jay Steingold Photos and illustration by: Laura Robertson, background photo: Shutterstock

offee for many is just a way to wake up: a bitter pill to be swallowed once or twice daily to keep you from dozing off, but it doesn't have to be that way. Rather than be simply bad medicine, coffee can be an exotic taste from halfway around the world and all it takes is a little bit more effort. And you don't even have to have a mustache or an English degree to make great coffee. I know it looks that way, but if you just believe in yourself and choose the right beans, you can make a tasty morning cup for less than that Americano you buy on the way to work.

Finding the right shop It may sound strange or superficial, but these days a shop's trendiness is a good measurement of its quality. There are plenty of exceptions, but coffee has changed a lot over the years from a continuously boiled sludge to the fussed over ambrosia it is today. A good coffee shop 10 years ago doesn't necessarily hold itself to today's standards of freshness and roasting. Like it or not, the hipster aesthetic often comes with some great coffee. Also, look for a coffee shop that takes pride in their beans. Often this means they are featured prominently in their display, probably more so than their pastries and definitely more than any sugar syrup coffee hybrids.

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Keep it fresh The very first thing you should find on your bag is the roasted date.

While coffee doesn't expire in the same way as milk or love,, it loses its more subtle flavors over time. You're looking for a date within about a week of the date of purchase. Coffee keeps its’ freshness for about two weeks after it’s roasted but could hold onto that freshness longer if properly stored. If your shop sprung for bags with little valves on them, take your time because you've got a bit longer. That sweet little valve lets out CO2 while keeping everything else in and it was invented specifically for coffee. However, if drinking coffee isn't a chore, you will probably finish the bag before it starts to lose its luster.

Choosing a roast Lighter roasts tend to have more pronounced delicate tea-like flavors like jasmine, black tea and citrus. Light roasts are also the easiest to mess up when brewing since any bitter or sour off-flavors created by improper brewing can overpower their natural flavor.

Medium roasts often have stronger flavors like clove or peach as well as some lighter notes. They are often more complex and can give you

different flavors depending on their brew method as stronger flavors tend to overpower weaker ones. Additionally they are more forgiving in brewing than lighter roasts and tend to have a good balance between acidity and flavor.

Dark roasts solve the problem of consistency in the most ham-fisted way possible: burn everything.

There are variations on burnt such as French Roast or All City roast, but be assured they are all burnt. Most of the flavor you can taste in a dark roast is from the roast itself. In fact, it doesn't matter as much where the beans came from since much of differences in acidity and flavor notes will be lost on your tongue, which is swimming in burnt flavor. If dark roasts are your thing, you like toasty nutty chocolate and caramel flavors of coffee that puts hair on your chest. On a related note you should take things to the next level and start drinking straight espresso if you don't already. You can thank me later..

In terms of caffeine content, all roasts are essentially equal. However, if you are measuring by volume with a scoop or measuring spoon, a lighter roast will have more caffeine since it has not expanded as much from roasting as dark roasted coffee.

If you've had any experience looking at bags of coffee, you might have noticed all the extra information such as washed, natural processed, or pulped natural. To understand what it means we'll have to take a look at the coffee bean as it is picked. As a coffee cherry, coffee is very much like a grape with two large pits. The second layer of the coffee cherry is the mucilage. As its name suggests, the mucilage is a thin slimy layer that coats the green beans. The innermost layer is the green beans which is what becomes coffee. To roast the green beans, everything else must be removed and the beans must be dried out. However, the order of this process affects the flavor.

Washed coffee: The outer skin is removed and then the coffee cherries sit in water until the mucilage ferments. Then, the green beans are washed clean and dried outside. Coffee that is washed is lighter and has a nice clean taste.

Natural processed coffee: Coffee cherries are picked and then left to dry with the skin and mucilage intact. Then the green bean is removed to be roasted. Since no one can see the shape of the green bean through the cherry, they aren't sorted by size until after they are processed. Consequently they are often less-consistent in shape than other coffees, but drying with the cherry on gives it a wonderful berry flavor and a lower acidity. If you've never had natural-processed coffee, buy a cup of natural-processed Ethiopia Yirgacheffee. You can taste the coffee cherry.

FOOD & DRINK February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 51

Pulped natural coffee: The skin is removed and the beans are left to dry with mucilage on. The mucilage is then removed after the beans have dried. Since they are better sorted, pulped natural coffee is more consistent than natural-processed coffees.

If you are lucky enough you might see a little bit more information on your coffee bag along with a very big price tag. Here are a couple of special coffees you might see at high-end shops.

Geisha: A different variety of coffee plant from Ethiopia that is often grown in Panama. It is widely hailed as the cream of the crop because of its distinctive tea-like flavor which is similar to Ethiopia Yirgacheffee. If you're curious, Namusairo in Gwanghamun has a more affordable cup of Panama Geisha for 10,000 won.

Peaberry: Normally coffee cherries have two green beans, but these magnificent abominations have only one. The result is a bag of super-dense and flavorful beans that are an excellent brew.

Cup of Excellence: The green beans were roasted and sent to an international competition where they were certified to be delicious. They were then sold as green beans in an international auction so buy cup of excellence from a roaster you already know to be quality.

The goal in roasting coffee is to have every bean roasted the same. Since beans are sorted by density, their shape and size can vary. This doesn't matter up to a point, but misshapen beans can create burns when they are roasting. Look at your beans when you use them to decide if your shop's hipster posturing was a lie. If all of the beans in your bag are the same color and around the same size with no burns, you can rest easy.

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

IT MAY SOUND STRANGE OR SUPERFICIAL, BUT THESE DAYS A SHOP'S TRENDINESS IS A GOOD MEASUREMENT OF ITS QUALITY...LIKE IT OR NOT, THE HIPSTER AESTHETIC OFTEN COMES WITH SOME GREAT COFFEE."

can't throw a rock in Seoul without knocking over someone’s coffee. The long hours spent working, studying and drinking demand it to stay awake, but is that all coffee is to Korea? Of course not.

If no one cared about flavor, we'd all be drinking Hot6 so let's take a tour around Seoul's top coffee chains. The Americano is the most popular drink in Seoul, a simple drink that is a couple of espresso shots watered down. Ideally, said shots would be pulled to order, but the process has been streamlined in some cafes for the afternoon rush. With the exception of Starbucks, milk isn't available to go with your Americano so none of the coffees were diluted in any way aside from melting ice.

Holly's Coffee

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

You can tell by the color that Holly’s Coffee’s Americano is jet fuel. It has a strong burnt flavor with a rubber-like aftertaste of the runway that lingered on the tongue.

Despite the flavor, it was genuine coffee, pulled when we ordered it. I could easily down one if I had stay awake at a cafe while waiting for the first train.

Price: 4100-4600 won Quality: Shots pulled Flavor: Burnt, Rubber Body: Full, Lingering

e t s a t o n a ic r e m A T he Great Where to Find the Best Americano Amongst Seoul's Ubiquitious Coffee Chains Review by Jay Steingold Photos by Laura Robertson

Caffè Pascucci

Latte King

A Twosome Place

Starbucks

Ediya

Caffe Bene

Tom N Toms

Angel-in-us Coffee

Kona Beans

Surprise! Caffè Pascucci is actually an Italian cafe chain! I had to look it up after tasting their Americano because it felt like Frank Ocean was serenading my tastebuds. Aside from its incredible smoothness, it had an almost caramel sweet milk chocolate flavor without any hint of bitterness.

Out of all the Americanos it was probably the most pleasant to drink, but I could easily see why people say that it is too weak. If you are a French Roast coffee drinker, I don't think you'd feel the same.

Price: 4000 won Quality: Shots pulled Flavor: smooth, chocolate Body: clean

52 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

My time as a barista, as well as many bad experiences grabbing Starbucks in airports, left me with very low expectations heading into this, but I was pleasantly surprised. Starbucks' Americano was very drinkable: toasty, full-bodied and strong with a chocolate aftertaste that stuck on the tongue without any gritty feeling you sometimes get from over-ground coffee.

It could be because this particular Starbucks was a Starbucks Reserve, but I think Starbucks in Korea has a higher standard than those in America.

Price: 4100/4600/5100 won Quality: Shots pulled Flavor: Toasty, Light Body: Full, Clean cup

The closest I've had to Tom N Tom's Americano was when I tried brewing coffee with the same grounds twice. As you can see above, it was extremely light in color with maybe 1 shot and subsequently light in taste. Since the flavor was so thin, I couldn't figure out any of the notes, so I'd say it tastes like water with a hint of coffee. If you are after a thirst-quenching coffee, Tom N Tom's is the way to go.

Price: 3800/4300/5000 won Quality: Premixed Flavor: Coffee flavored water Body: Weak

Latte King is known for drink gimmicks like sweet potato or wasabi lattes, but lately they’ve been producing the cheapest coffee I have ever seen and it’s not half bad. It was light enough to be a single shot but was followed with a sweet aftertaste.

Undeniably better than anything you will get at a convenience store for about the same price and, if you want a bucket of Americano, they've got you covered with a 1L size for not much more.

Price: 2000 won (1000 won on sale) Quality: Premixed Flavor: Dusty, Sweet Body: Thin

Coffee flavor notes are often relative and made up, so bear with me. The bitterness of Ediya's Americano extended beyond green pepper and somehow reminded me of having my tooth drilled. Maybe it was the sediment left on my tongue combined with the astringent flavor, but something about that coffee was off. It would help them a lot if they used crushed ice instead of cubed since it would mellow out the flavor faster, but even after waiting I got mostly green pepper with some dark flavor.

Price: 2800 won Quality: Shots pulled Flavor: Green pepper, Novocaine Body: gritty

The Americano from Angel-in-us should be drank with a glass of water. There was such a grit to it that stuck on the tongue and sucked out all the moisture.

This could have been a mistake on the grind for the day, but the Americanos I've had from Angel-in-us in the past haven't been much different. Its flavor wasn't much more than dark, but after letting some of its crushed ice melt and the sediment settle, the flavor mellowed out to be quite drinkable.

Price: 4100 won Quality: Shots pulled Flavor: dark chocolate, dry, soft Body: strong, filmy

After a string of pre-mixed Americanos, A Twosome Place was a refreshing change. The Americano had lingering bitter and metallic flavor as well as an earthy quality to it along with some sharpness.

The combination and variety of flavors made for an odd drink, but if I had eaten it with a piece of cake instead of a glass of water, I don't think any of those odd flavors would have mattered. After all, it is a couple dessert cafe.

Price: 4100/4600 won Quality: Shots pulled Flavor: Metallic, Earthy Body: Full, Lingering

The Americano from Caffe Bene was mild due to being a medium roast — smooth and toasty with a hint of citrus and milk chocolate flavors. There was more of a sharpness to Caffe Bene’s Americano than I would have liked and it had an astringent aftertaste. The advantage to pre-mixed Americanos is that it took about 30 seconds for my order. All the same, if you have the time, I'd recommend somewhere else.

Price: 4100-4600 won Quality: Premixed Flavor: Citric, Toasty Body: Full bodied, mild

Kona beans is a Hawaiian-themed Korean coffee chain that is popping up all over Seoul. You might see the Apgujeong location crowded since it is owned by the mothers of two Super Junior members, but I think Kona Beans deserves more credit. Unlike most Americanos, it was a medium roast that led to a smoother feeling, bringing out its bright and nutty notes. Although it is a bit more expensive than its fellow competitors, Kona Beans offers refills if you aren't grabbing a takeout drink.

Price: 4300/4900 won (refills available) Quality: Shots pulled Flavor: Nutty, bright Body: Full, Clean cup

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf

If you've skipped to the list, then here it is: the three shops I'd go to for an Americano given the choice. It's been a long and jittery journey, and I've scratched the surface of Seoul coffee chains. Even now as you read this there is probably some entrepreneur eyeballing a vacant cellphone store, dreaming of building the next Starbucks.

• Cafe Pascucci • Starbucks • Kona Beans Though the beans and the coffee shop's standards make most of the flavor, the barista makes the coffee. I have had both good and bad baristas at each of these coffee chains, so if you're surprised that your favorite didn't do so well, you have your local barista to thank. Before I hop on my fixie bike and ride into the sunset, I'd like to say that if you want more than darkness with a bit of chocolate, try a single origin espresso or a pour over from your local shop.

People can go their entire lives thinking that coffee tastes like dirt, and while they may be right about their coffee, there are many passionate coffee farms and roasters striving to bring the best of their coffee's flavor. You owe it to yourself to give the products of their passion a try.

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 53

The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf is a Californian chain that is more or less Starbucks without as much international brand recognition. Their Americano had a strange green pepper bitterness to it, which means it was probably over-brewed or the grind was too fine. Americanos I've had from The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf in the past were pretty weak in flavor, so maybe they were having an off day.

Price: 4500 won Quality: Shots pulled Flavor: dark, green Body: full

54 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Nitro Powered Craft Beer and Coffee Nitro on tap is providing silky smooth pints of coffee and craft beer Review and photos by: Rob Shelley

itrogenated beers haven’t been around for a long time in the grand scheme of things. Guinness was the first brewery to add “nitro” to their kegs in 1932. Fans of that famous Irish dry stout will be familiar with its iconic cascade. When Guinness is poured into a glass, it forms a chaotic mixture of light and dark brown waves that slowly organizes — -darkness spreading up from the bottom while light brown waves culminate in a dense, creamy head. Guinness was the first beer I drank that seemed like a performance dessert, with notes of coffee and chocolate, plus a head that I actually enjoyed. Now the “nitro” performance is taking place in glasses of craft beer and cold-brewed coffee in pubs across Korea bridging the gap between these two popular drinks.

Nitrogen gas, N2, changes the mouthfeel of drinks because it doesn’t dissolve in water, leaving tons of microbubbles in the glass that give your coffee or stout a very rich, creamy, velvety texture with a tight, frothy head. As a result, even a glass of coffee can now look like a pint of Guinness.

The nitro coffee trend has been picking up steam in the States lately with companies like Stumptown offering nitro on tap and in to-go cans. Craftworks founder Dan Vroon discovered nitro coffee at the 2014 Craft Brewers' Conference in Denver, Colorado and fell in love. Along with former Craftworks sales manager Cayden Choe, they spent a year starting up Bruworks, Korea’s first nitro coffee company.

Most nitro coffee is cold-brewed, what Koreans call “Dutch Coffee,” because it allows the coffee to be stored in kegs and poured from a tap like beer. Cold-brewed coffee also has a cleaner and less acidic taste compared to regular coffee. The nitro simply makes cold-brewed coffee even sweeter and gives it a texture that simulates cream. People enjoy it in different ways, but experts suggest not pouring it onto ice which can ruin the beautiful cascade effect.

Most importantly, one should try it without

Even a glass of coffee can now look like a pint of Guinness.

adding milk or sugar! Many sugar and cream fans find they can enjoy nitro coffee simply black.

In beer, nitro highlights the malt, making it sweeter and roastier, but loses the hop bite and aroma. Therefore, most bars use nitro for dark beers like stouts and porters. Interestingly, the dark malts of these beers give them a roasty, coffee-like flavor and thus are sometimes brewed with coffee, anyway.

“The main flavor similarity between the two is the delicious roasted flavor of the coffee beans and the roasted barley malt in the beer,” notes Bruworks' Choe. “In fact, many people who first try Nitro Coffee say it reminds them of their first Guinness!” Choe also notes how playing with different beans and roasts is akin to brewers playing with different malts and grains.

Daekyung Moon, manager of the brewing company Pongdang, also compares the “smoother, richer mouthfee”l" of nitro stout to Guinness. Ryan Blocker, brewer at Galmegi, helped me understand the science behind nitro.

He explained that by using less CO2 to pressurize the beer, nitro beers have less carbonic acid leading to a less sour and tingly sip, while leaving a dense and long-lasting head.

Both nitro coffee and stout are popping up in more and more places in Korea. Stouts are getting the nitro treatment at places like Pong Dang (in Garosu-gil) and the Gwangan Taphouse (in Busan). Craftworks has served their Seorak Oatmeal Stout on nitro since 2012. As such, it’s no surprise that Bruworks nitro coffee can be found in many places that serve craft beer given their unofficial relationship with Craftworks. Perhaps one day we’ll see a cross-promotion Craftworks Nitro Coffee Ale, although Bruworks insists they could collaborate with any Korean craft brewery. One thing’s for sure, nitro’s rising popularity is bridging the gap between coffee and craft beer lovers.

Bruworks nitro coffee can be found in pubs like Heaven for a “G”, Maloneys, and Craftworks.

Visit www.bru.works for more info.

Nitro craft beer can be found in places like Pong Dang and Gwangan Taphouse.

Rob Shelley writes about craft beer and keeps a Korean Beer Directory and Upcoming Events page at www.CraftBeerAsia.com/Korea.

Espresso

Vanilla Ice Crem

Steamed Milk Foam

Steamed Milk

Hot Milk

Espresso Espresso

Espresso

What’s That You’re Drinking?

An Italo-Centric Guide to Espresso Drinks

Review by: Charlotte Hammond Illustrations by Luke

sensus on the origin of the Americano is that it was the coffee drink prepared for American soldiers during World War II. Americanos are intended to be an espresso-made approximation of drip coffee and though the strengths of drip coffee and americanos can be similar, the two tend to differ in taste.

Affogato - The only item on this list that cannot properly be called a drink. Most affogatos in Korea are scoops of vanilla ice cream or gelato that come steeped in a shot of espresso.

Ice cream makes a perfect affogato, however the word which comes from “drowned” in Italian can refer to any dessert topped with espresso. Affogatos have started popping up on more Korean cafe menus despite the fact that affogatos most often appear on restaurant dessert menus in other parts of the world. The diner often has the privilege of dousing his or her dessert with the hot espresso shot.

Caffe Macchiato - Given that “macchiato” means “stained” in Italian, a caffe macchiato should be a shot of espresso stained or dolloped with less than

a shot’s worth of steamed milk. Macchiatos are served in demitasses (small sized ceramic cups with saucers) similar to espresso shots.

Cappuccino - The cappuccino gets its name from the Capuchin friars of Italy, whose habits apparently resemble the drink in color. Consisting of an espresso shot topped with a layer each of hot milk and frothy milk foam and a final dusting of cinnamon, cappuccinos are strictly regarded as breakfast drinks in Italy. To order the milk-heavy cappuccino after noon is to reveal yourself as a tourist to the Italians.

This cappuccino enthusiast thinks they’re quite nice after any meal or as an afternoon pick-me-up.

Cafe Latte - In the purist definition, cafe lattes should be composed of a 1:3 or 1:5 espresso and steamed milk ratio. (Lattes in Korean cafes often tip that scale toward steamed milk.)

“Latte” familiar to anyone who knows Italian or another romance language, means “milk.”

So is there any difference between a caffe latte and the seemingly French translation of cafe au lait? Not much, allegedly the French steam their milk at a hotter temperature.

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 55

Few people are as likely to cling to epicurean purism quite like the Italians. Coffee isn’t technically Italian — they were far from the first people to cultivate and brew the stuff — but few nations have shaped coffee culture as we know it today to the extent the Italians have. One of the Italians’ biggest contributions to coffee are the espresso-based coffee drinks we know and love today. No, the frappuccino is not Italian, but a Caffe Americano definitely is. Well, more or less. Even if you’ve mastered the difference between tall, grande and venti, this guide offers a crash course in understanding just what exactly your barista is slinging.

Caffe Americano - The name literally means “American coffee” in Italian, but the origin of this coffee drink is not believed to be American. The drink consists of one or two shots of espresso diluted with hot water although no specific amount of water needs to be added. The popular con-

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

HotWater

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Squash & Tofu Curry for Cold Winter Nights

With temperatures hitting -15 this winter, I find myself seeking warm, comforting food to come home to Recipe by Yoo-jin Oh Photo by chowhound.com

T

56 www.groovekorea.com December 2015

his curry is by all means not your traditional curry and instead is a quick one-pot version made with everything that is comforting! You will find that the sweetness of the soft squash goes beautifully with the light tofu. The kabocha squash (or known as 단호박) is readily available in the supermarket throughout winter and the rest of the ingredients are easily substituted or found locally. The only real effort that goes into

making this dish is peeling the squash. After trying various methods — the easiest one is to take a medium sized knife and chop the pumpkin into several wedges and then really just go at it by hacking off the peels. I know it sounds terrible but the meal at the end is definitely worth your effort.

Modify the recipe according to your taste and serve your customized home-made curry with rice or grains of your choice and stay warm.

Instructions 1. Cut the kabocha squash into wedges, lay it flat on onto the cutting board and cut the peel off with a knife. Then cut the wedges into 4cm chunks (don’t worry too much about the size) 2. Heat 2 tbsp of coconut oil in a medium sized pot. Add the chopped onions with a pinch of salt and cook for 6-8 minutes until the onions have softenedv 3. Add garlic, ginger and red-curry paste as well as any additional options mentioned above. Mix well and cook for 60 – 90 seconds until fragrant 4. Add in the rest of the ingredients (tofu, kabocha, water, coconut milk, fish sauce, soy sauce and salt) and simmer for 40 – 45 minutes until the kabocha squash is completely soft and the curry has thickened 5. Cook your grain of choice (brown rice, white rice, couscous etc.) whilst you wait for the curry to be ready.

6. Season the curry with extra fish sauce or salt if needed and serve the curry with squeeze of lime juice and if available sprinkle some fresh cilantro on top for the finishing touch. I also like to fry up an egg to add it on top sometimes

Serving: 3 - 4 Ingredients: • ½ of a large kabocha squash or 1 whole small squash • 1 yellow or white onion (chopped) • 1 pack of hard tofu (cut into squares) • 2 tbsp of coconut oil or vegetable oil • 1 tbsp of grated ginger (~3 cm block) • 3 cloves of minced garlic • 3 tbsp of red curry paste *see notes for alternatives • 2 tbsp of fish sauce • 1 tbsp of soy sauce • ½ tsp of salt • 200 ml of water • 1 can (400 ml) of coconut milk Optional (to be added with the garlic, ginger and paste) • 2-3 diced small hot chili pepper (a little extra kick) • 1 tsp of whole cumin seeds • 1 tsp of turmeric powder • 1 tsp of Garam Masala for a extra kick

Restaurant Buzz

BREAKFAST (NOT BRUNCH) Story by Joe McPherson

Want a heartier breakfast? The big restaurant getting buzz is the new The Original Pancake House in Itaewon. They serve large breakfasts (not brunch). It’s not wannabe-fancy pretentious fare for the ladies who brunch crowd. It’s more akin to Denny’s and Waffle House in the US. It’s nostalgic and gets you filled up for the morning.

Another buzzing place in the area is a flashy bowling alley near The Original Pancake House, but it hasn’t been good buzz. I won’t say the name here (Korea’s draconian criminal libel laws), but it has rapidly turned off customers with its overpriced drinks, almost contemptuously poor service and substandard bowling alleys. In other words, expect it to be a hit.

THE ORIGINAL PANCAKE HOUSE 172-2 Itaewon 1(il)-dong, Yongsan-gu, 02-795-7481

BAGELOO 70 Wonhyo-ro, Yongsan-gu 02-702-2988

PICK A BAGEL 11 Nonhyeon-ro 175 gil, Gangnam-gu 02-518-1008

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Pick A Bagel has been filling the dearth of breakfast foods in Seoul. New York bagel people are about as particular as New York pizza people. So far, Pick A Bagel has been pleasing them. Another slightly older darling is Bageloo, who reportedly have fresh-from-the-oven bagels three times a day. Are we witnessing a bagel trend in Seoul?

Butterfinger Flip CHILDHOOD NOSTALGIA MEETS ADULT DECADENCE WITH THIS CANDY BAR COCKTAIL Recipe and photo by Bobby Kim

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 57

eminisce about one of your favorite childhood chocolate candy bars with this eggnog variation: a perfect dessert cocktail inspired by the Butterfinger chocolate candy bar.

The combination of brown butter-infused brandy, butterscotch liqueur, chocolate liqueur, chocolate bitters, and peanut flavored orgeat will certainly remind you of the perennially delectable Butterfinger bar. This cocktail will be featured on Southside Parlor’s Winter Signatures menu!

1 o z. B r .5 o Infu own But sed z. B .5 o utter Bran ter dy sco z. C rèm tch .5 o L iqu e z.

1 d rop Pean de Ca eur u ca Cho t 1/4 co l Orgea o tsp a t te Sa 1 W line S Bitte rs o ho l Da e E lutio n Sha rk Ch gg vin oco gs for late gar nis h

T R A V E L Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

58 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

LOVE IS IN THE AIR

WHETHER YOU ARE WITH A LOVED ONE, LOOKING FOR A NIGHT OR TWO AWAY OR SIMPLY WANTING TO TREAT YOURSELF TO SOME POSH NOSH, LOOK NO FURTHER."

Help make your Valentine’s Day a five-star affair Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by Courtesy of Ritz-Carlton, Seoul, Conrad Seoul, Grand Hyatt Seoul and Grand Intercontinental Seoul COEX

a romantic getaway this February, Seoul’s hotels have some of the finest packages, dining and celebrations on offer. Whether you are with a loved one, looking for a night or two away or simply wanting to treat yourself to some posh nosh, look no further. The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul, the Grand InterContinental Seoul COEX, Grand Hyatt Seoul and the Conrad Seoul have put together some of the finest romantic options for you to enjoy this February.

Valentine’s Treat: Single & Mingle Party

Hotel: J.J Mahoney’s, Grand Hyatt Seoul When: February 12, 2016 and February 13, 2016 Cost: KRW 30,000 (including tax) Website: www.seoul.grand.hyattrestaurants.kr Tel: 02-799-8601 If you are free and single and looking for love, then the Grand Hyatt Seoul have just the thing. Celebrating one of the most romantic days of the year, J.J Mahoney’s will be hosting their own Single & Mingle Night for those looking for love. For two consecutive evenings on February 12 and February 13, internationally renowned DJ Ravin from the Buddha Bar Paris will be joined by JJ’s own acclaimed house band Encore for an evening of live performances. A best dance contest will find the movers and groovers from the evening, or you can simply enjoy the music on offer. The venue will be transformed into a sexy red sea of romance and even chance your Valentine’s Day luck with a draw to win hotel vouchers, dinners or a cocktail at the Grand Hyatt, Seoul. Temperatures will certainly be rising and if you are looking for love, then this is undoubtedly one of the places to be.

Valentine’s Treat: The R.E.D

T R A V E L

Hotel: Conrad Seoul When: February 12-14, 2016 Cost: KRW 670,000 (for 2 adults, excluding tax) Website: www.conradseoul.co.kr Tel: 02-6137-7777 Keeping with the Valentine’s theme, the Conrad Seoul have prepared The R.E.D. The abbreviation stands for Roses, Event and Dessert to complete any romantic proposal you have in store for the other half.

Upon arrival, receive a bouquet of flowers in your room before heading downstairs to enjoy a romantic evening of fine dining and finish the evening with a decadent dessert. These package extras are in addition to a luxury one night stay in one of the Conrad Seoul’s exquisite rooms which overlooks the Han River, offering spectacular views of the city. The second floor of the hotel will also be transformed into a romantic wonderland with the buffet restaurant, Italian restaurant and deli offering a selection of western and eastern cuisine. Coupled together with soft lighting, candle-lit tables and romantic jazz, the Conrad Seoul promise to make this Valentine’s a memorable evening.

Whether planning a proposal to that special loved one or wanting to add some spark to the weekend, with a red chocolate cake, a bouquet of flowers and scrumptious food, this is a tempting romantic weekend away.

Valentine’s (and Lunar New Year) Treat: Asian Wonder Hour

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 59

Hotel: Grand Intercontinental Seoul COEX Date: Runs Monday to Saturday (excluding Sundays and national holidays), 6pm-9pm Cost: KRW 45,000 (10% service charge and 10% VAT inclusive) Website: www.grandicparnas.com Tel: 02-3430-8603 The InterContinental Seoul COEX has Valentine’s and White Day celebrations with the launch of the Asian Express Wonder Hour this month.

Running until March 31, enjoy a range of unique Asian dishes, alongside unlimited beer and wine. This established event is one of the most popular at the hotel with a rotating theme introduced last year. If wanting a break from Valentine’s, enjoy their Seollal celebrations instead with a mixture of Asian cuisines. With twenty dishes to choose from including dishes from Korea, Malaysia and China, enjoy some squid and pork bulgogi with chilled seafood and vegetables or steamed pork and spicy seafood soup which will be available alongside some mouthwatering desserts. The Lunar New Year will also be celebrated with some of the region’s best beers and wines and a special of Chinese Igok wine will also be on offer. So, get away from the Valentine’s bubble and celebrate the New Year in style.

Hotel: The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul When: February 12-14, 2016 Cost: KRW 215,000 – KRW 325,000 (plus taxes and service charge) Website: www.ritzcarltonseoul.com Tel: 02-3451-8114 If looking for a romantic getaway, then The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul have two special packages for couples this month. Running from February 12-14, the Berry Romantic I and II packages help create a memorable weekend in the capital. In the Berry Romantic I, alongside one night in a superior deluxe room, enjoy a delicious afternoon tea for two at the Ritz Teassert – Berry More. A selection of scrumptious strawberry desserts will be on offer and coupled with fragrant black tea for the perfect afternoon treat. Berry Romantic II features an upgrade to a spacious Club Premier room which includes exclusive access to the Ritz-Carlton, Seoul Club Lounge in addition to afternoon tea at Ritz Teassert – Berry More. Tea also includes an unlimited selection of handmade strawberry desserts waffles, pizzas, Chocolate Fondu and other dishes. Suitable for loved ones, friends or partners, The Berry Romantic I or II packages are a delightful treat for any couple

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Valentine’s Treat: The Berry Romantic

T R A V E L Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The vanishing state of Cuba Experience traditional Cuba before it disappears.

60 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Story by Barbara Bierbrauer Photos by Barbara Bierbrauer, Shutterstock

of the most incredible countries in the world is slowly opening its doors, offering a breathtaking opportunity to experience a nation and a country (maybe) a second before the Iron Curtan is lifted and the Berlin Wall is torn down. While no one really knows how long the Cuban regime will be able to keep the Status Quo and the reins so tight, a journey to Cuba should better be made today rather than tomorrow.

Since 2014, the relationship between the USA and its headstrong, cantankerous and waspish

little neighbor has made huge leaps forwards, leading towards a point of no return. The resumption of diplomatic relations, which took place in July 2015, is a milestone that promises many changes that Cuban society is heading to.

While there are only around 250 foreign companies on Cuban soil, countless US and other Western businesses are on the starting line, ready to go in and change Cuba forever.

And before the first retiree from Miami buys a villa on the luscious beaches of Cayo Largo del Sur, we are all urged to grab the opportunity to

create our own experiences within the Caribbean dictatorship.

Being an EU citizen makes traveling to Cuba very easy. Tourist visas can be acquired without any difficulties. Surprisingly, US citizens can also enter Cuba without any restrictions - and are also very welcome to do so. However, visiting Cuba is punishable by US law - but where there is a will, there is a way.

Cuba does not hide its uniqueness; it is apparent to visitors immediately. The Soviet-style airport comes from the same era as the vintage cars from the 40s and 50s, which now share the streets with new Peugeots and their drivers that look like the siblings of Compay Segundo.

Havana Vieja seemingly has not changed since Wim Wenders filmed Buena Vista Social Club, with the same faces sitting on the same corners, with the same ladies in the same shops and the same kids playing baseball on the empty streets of the city's center. The facades on Malecon, the main promenade of Havana, feels as if they could fall apart at any minute.

But if you look behind the curtains and chat with the people there, you will be able to detect the tiny wind of change that is happening.

The last decade of Cuban history has seen time

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 61

Instead, businessmen are the masters of “resolving” - networking, bribing, trading goods for goods and exchanging favors for favors.

The black and gray market is what drives this economy and society forward, with the political system pushing the brakes as and when it sees fit.

One of the first things to learn about Cuba is that there is no rushing at all. Never. The communist regime brings its people the security of a regular pay check, but also installs a glass ceiling, that can hardly be broken through A minimum living standard is guaranteed and for many struggling with the system, which does not encourage entrepreneurship, is not worth it. So why hurry, if you can have rest in

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

move very slowly, experiencing an insecure switch from state-directed economy towards private entrepreneurship, with progress often taking one step forward and then two steps back. The Cuban struggle continues with its biggest fear being that, after more than 50 years of suffering under the US embargo (and its loss of support from the USSR), history will repeat itself with the country returning to what it was like before the Revolution. So doing business and gaining an advantage from these new regulations, such as the possibility to open a restaurant or bed and breakfast, is something courageous that Cuban businessmen (mainly in their 20s and 30s) are attempting for the first time.

Most visible for visitors are, of course, the changes in tourism. First, private restaurants mostly serve a very limited (but incredibly delicious) selection of meals. Private hostels (definitely the best choice for anyone looking to avoid luxury in order to gain a real insight into Cuban life), car and motorcycle rentals and other little shops indicate that commercialization is rife. However, doing business is not as easy as it is in the West; it is not about value for money, simply because value is difficult to get.

T R A V E L

BUT IF YOU LOOK BEHIND THE CURTAINS AND CHAT WITH THE PEOPLE THERE, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO DETECT THE TINY WIND OF CHANGE THAT IS HAPPENING."

the shadows of an umbrella, while having a chat with a neighbor on the balcony from the opposite side of the street? And by internalizing the true meaning of mañana - maybe tomorrow, maybe never, but definitely not now - misunderstandings can be avoided.

Astonishingly, the communist regime is not the Big Brother that everyone expects. The people speak freely about their rations, consisting of rice, chicken and beans, speak freely about their struggles to get beautiful clothes and speak freely about friends and relatives who have already left their home for Miami or Europe. But you will never hear a bad word about Castro. Fidel Castro, who turned the brothel and gambling island into a society with the highest literacy rate and the best medical care in Latin America, has almost disappeared from the public eye and rumors about his death pop up every now and then. But he is omnipresent – in his quotations, painted on the walls, his portraits and the stories told about him in every establishment. The relationship between Cubans and their dictator is very intimate and, after some time on the island, understandable.

After experiencing the capital for a few days, if life in Havana seems slow and relaxed to you, head towards the Cuban rural provinces to experience genuine stasis. Here, one can quickly find the impression that Cubans have discovered the secret of eternal life – still so careless is their use of time. Any facility with a connection to time (like public transportation) is disastrous and sometimes non-existent, as people wait for hitchhiking possibilities, sitting on the roadside for hours on end. Taking passengers is a must, as driving an empty car is a no-go, so sooner or later, one can find himself in a car full with happy, chatting and laughing people, and even, maybe, holding a chicken or two.

Cuban roads are designed for the adventurous – you never know what awaits you after the next turn. While the intercity highways are good to drive on, the smaller roads are only for experienced drivers. That's where the locals are of great help – they know the holes by individual names and amateur drivers can navigate them safely.

Rural provinces are beautiful and quiet, with time less valuable than it is in Havana. People are friendly and curious, always ready for a good chat, a glass of ron (Cuban rum) and a handrolled cigar. The surrounding greenery and the incredibly fertile ground that makes everything grow quickly are home to melancholic cows and funny brown pigs that enjoy the patches of dirt on the roadside. While the time has come for Cuba to change forever, the decisions and negotiations between Havana and Washington have yet to have any discernible impact on the rural provinces, where time has stood still, almost like it did for Sleeping Beauty.

T R A V E L Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

62 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Seoul Prepare For A Thai Adventure The Asian Champions League sees Seoul face off against Thailand’s premier club Story by Liam Ring Photos by FC Seoul

ith the dust just settled on a season that threatened much but ended in relative success - try telling Arsenal fans that a domestic cup and third place league finish is something not to be sneezed at Seoul’s sole representative in the Asian Champions League (and indeed the K-League Classic) prepares for another season of continental battles. It promises to be an adventure of epic proportions, bringing thrills, spills and drama before Seoul probably bows out to a Chinese club that pays the wages of a Barclay’s Premier League team in the knock-out stages.

The Asian Champions League is a tough competition to make out at times, with a skewed system of financial rewards that sees beaten semi-finalists receive a paltry USD 200,000 only one of a number of issues affecting the competition’s veracity. Despite being one of the strongest leagues in Asia, there is little doubt that the nearby J-League has more hate than love for the tournament, with domestic concerns often leaving sides unsure as to what kind of team to pick and fans trying to work out whether to bother. You can imagine J-League managers reminding travel-happy players and fans of the cautionary tale of Cerezo Osaka, whose Asian adventure in 2014 saw extra matches, travel, a pummelling at the feet of Guangzhou Evergrande and then the

club plummeting into the second tier from which they have yet to return. Meantime, Korean clubs have an immaculate record in the competition; 10 wins, twice that of its nearest rival. Despite not having won the trophy, FC Seoul can point to being twice beaten finalists, and with little worry of dropping into the K-League Challenge (welcome to the top flight Suwon FC!), will be giving their all in a group stage that could see the committed Diablo bolster their Korean Air frequent flyer points way beyond regional travel proportions.

Divided into East and West in order to help avoid trips that would send Marco Polo running for his antihistamines, there may still be a plethora of mid-week travel challenges should Adelaide United FC overcome Shandong Luneng Taishan FC in the final preliminary play-off round. First though, Seoulites get to experience Asian football Thai-style as the club jets off to Bangkok and then navigates the 400 kilometers to Buriram to face the runaway Thai champions at their 33,000 plus capacity New I-Mobile Stadium. Buriram finished 13 points ahead of Robbie Fowler’s old chums Muang Thong United last season with a startling goal difference of plus 74. Last season saw the club reach ten points in the group stages before bowing out in a three-way head-to-head record against Gamba Osaka and Seongnam FC (despite beating Seongnam in Thailand in the opening round of fixtures at the magnificently nicknamed Thunder Castle).

Once you reach Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok, the travel choices reflect that 1980s Steve Martin/John Candy buddy comedy, with short flights or longer train, bus or car choices. A 60-minute flight to Buriram is available on Don Muaeng-based local carrier Nokair or the Tony Fernandez budget-owned airline Air Asia, which also leaves from Don Muaeng Airport. Trumpeting their new

generous home-town officiating saw Seoul grab a last-minute equalizer from the spot in the return match at Sangam. Last season’s J-League champions will no doubt mix regular curiosity with worry, yet will not want to let the home fans down against what may be a sizeable visiting contingent.

The main Korean and Japanese airlines all offer services to Hiroshima, with prices starting at around KRW 300,000 for a return flight. From there, you can get a 50-minute bus ride to Nakasuji station on the overground Astram line, which will cost you 1,340 yen (about KRW 13,000). The Astram line was opened in 1994 to assist with access to the new all-purpose stadium, and will take you to the nearby Koiki-koen-mae Station. The 50,000-seater stadium is only a 5-minute walk away. Fancy a few days in Hiroshima? Sites such as the Hiroshima Peace memorial museum, Hiroshima Castle and the Itsukushima temple (first built in the 6th century. It is also famous for the absolutely delicious okonomiyaki dish and, for a little extra sport, the Hiroshima Carp baseball team plays at the Mazda Stadium.

While Korean sides generally do well in the Champions League - the country has the highest coefficient in West Asia - Seoul’s group will be one of the most competitive irrespective of which side comes through the preliminaries. If work won’t allow you a midweek trip overseas, be sure to head to Sangam for what promises to be some tight encounters. If you can get away, rest assured that there will be some Seoul fans traveling alongside you including FC Seoul’s foreign supporter’s club the Diablos. Scan those fixtures and, whether home or away, be prepared to follow Seoul’s premier football club.

February 23, 2016 Buriram FC vs FC Seoul

March 16, 2016 T.B.C. (Adelaide United FC or Shandong Luneng Taishan FC) vs FC Seoul

May 4, 2016 Sanfrecce Hiroshima vs FC Seoul

February 2016 www.groovekorea.com 63

FC Seoul Official website: www.fcseoul.com/en/main/main.jsp FC Seoul’s Foreign Supporters Club: www.facebook.com/groups/DiablosBlancos/

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

service as being at the behest of the many sports fans who want to go to the small city, the company is also promising a debut promotional fare significantly lower than its competitor. Once you arrive in Buriram, taxi services are your best bet to get either into town or straight to the stadium.

For something longer but cheaper (and with more departure options), the train from Hua Lamphong station takes between five and eight hours with three different carriage classes available. You can also take a bus from the Mo Chit Bus terminal in the north of the capital - the cheapest method but also probably the longest time-wise. Be sure to choose a bus with air conditioning.

Tickets start at around THB 300 with Nakhon Chai Air (NCA) the best known. Whichever method you use, just be sure not to miss kick-off.

With the identity of the final competitor in Group F unknown until mid-February, travel plans will be put on hold until Adelaide United FC and Shandong Luneng Taishan FC duke it out. Those on a budget (or with a dislike of spending long trips in a metal tube moving at high velocity) may hope the Chinese outfit overcome the A-Leaguers, and with Adelaide having spent much of the season scrambling around at the foot of the table in the land down-under, a defeat to its Chinese sister club looks a distinct possibility. Looking ahead to May sees what will be the shortest trip for FC Seoul fans regardless of the final round of preliminaries as it renews hostilities with Sanfrecce Hiroshima. Last facing each other in 2014, Sanfrecce won the fixture in Hiroshima before some overly

T R A V E L

LOOKING AHEAD TO MAY SEES WHAT WILL BE FANS’ SHORTEST TRIP REGARDLESS OF THE FINAL ROUND OF PRELIMINARIES AS HOSTILITIES ARE RENEWED WITH SANFRECCE HIROSHIMA."

LISTINGS

Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul

Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries.

6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500

French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180

Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS

FAMILY & KIDS

Jin Air 1600-6200

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

D ETUR

PO NS MU

NDO

Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age.

A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com AMUSEMENT PARKS Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book?

(02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr

UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

ANIMAL HOSPITALS Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

HAIR & JOY Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”

Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean.

National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture.

Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals.

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do

Trained at TONI & GUY and VIDAL SASSOON Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243

HAIR&JOY

Mapo-gu Dong gyo-dong 168-3_ 3F Seven Uniqlo Springs

www.hairandjoy.com Gangnam groove ads.pdf 1 Apgujeong Branch

QUNOHAIR

19/01/2016 17:14:37 Phone 02.549.0335

Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

www.qunohair.com

10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

DRAMA

ART MUSIC

Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays.

SERVICE

Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul C The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art.

M 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and ChuseokY holidays.

SPORT

COMMUNITY

CM

Plateau MY (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul CY 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays.

ACADEMIC

CMY

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

K

HonhIk Univ. Stn. Line2 Exit8

FRIENDSHIP

Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

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