Groove Korea 2019 May

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MAY 2019 COVER STORY

From the Editor-in-Chief

20 ABOUT THE COVER

Cover Illustration: Cess Rodriguez

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MANY OF US have had the joy of owning pets at some point in our lives. I grew up in the countryside of Oklahoma, so there was never a lack of animals around. We had dogs, cats, chickens and even guinea fowl (don’t ask… just Google it).

As kids, the family pet is a playmate and friend. Our parents often used them as a way to help teach us responsibility - one of my weekly chores was to bathe the dog. As well as taking turns feeding her and watering her with my siblings. We had her until the ripe old age of 13 and cried for days after she passed.

I am now the proud pet mama of Morgan, an 11-year-old shih tzu who is literally friends with everyone he meets; Luna, an 8-year-old sassy, gives-no-f**ks Siamese; and Huckleberry, affectionately called the grandma of the house because we have no idea how old she is - just that she’s somewhere between 15 and 18.

Having pets as a kid - even going through possibly 20 goldfish and betas during college - did not fully prepare me for the crazy world of owning a pet as an adult. Of course I knew all the things I was supposed to do - walk them, feed them, get them their shots, bathe them, play with them, etc. But actually having to do it was completely different. Then there’s the unexpected - spending 700,000 to 1 million won at the vet when one gets hurt or sick. There were certainly times over the years when I thought perhaps I was crazy for thinking I could handle this. How did I think I could be responsible for keeping another living, breathing thing alive and healthy?

But even when I’m internally crying as I hand over my bank card to the vet, or I walk into my apartment and find the trash strewn about in every - I do mean every - room, I know that I wouldn’t change a damn thing. Again, they aren’t just pets.

They are so much more.

They are my kids. They’re my best friends.

They’ve comforted me when I sat on my couch sobbing over the loss of my mother, and then my brother and grandmother.

Morgan can’t sleep at night unless he’s touching me, usually curled up at my side or next to my legs. Luna, for all her sassiness, crawls into my lap (or onto my head) every time I’m sick - usually because Morgan’s already taken up residence on my legs. Huckleberry has yet to trust me enough to crawl into my lap, but she adds a new layer of character to the household with her unique yowl (which usually means its dinnertime, lest I forget). Morgan is now known as the chillest dog in HBC even though we live in Kyungridan.

Pets are everything to us. And this why this issue of Groove Korea is dedicated to all our furbabies.

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MAY 2019

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A REVIEW OF DREAM EYE CENTER Dream Eye Center offers top-notch LASEK/LASIK surgerySeoul Fashion Week

K-fashion

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FRESH TALENTS Six emerging designers to look out for from 2019 Seoul Fashion Week

COMMUNITY

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CELEBRATING 400 YEARS Dulwich College Seoul celebrates proud 400-year history

FOOD & DRINK

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HEALTHY AND DELICIOUS Food that nourishes your body and your heart

COMMUNITY

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BEAUTY IN TH BROKEN Local photographer explores the beauty in brokeness

FOOD & DRINK

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ART THAT MOVES YOU Edible masterpieces in the form of coffee

SEOUL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SINCE 1973

Korea’s Premier K-12 International School

Accredited by western association of schools & colleges

Our mission

We develop curious minds, creative spirits, and compassionate hearts...

388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea 031.750.1327 • admissions@siskorea.org

www.siskorea.org

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KOREA EDITORIAL Editor-in-chief

EMMA KALKA emma@groovekorea.com

Food & Drink

LORENA JIMÉNEZ lorena@groovekorea.com

Fashion

DIANNE PINEDA-KIM dianne@groovekorea.com

Travel

WENDY PALOMO wendy@groovekorea.com

Arts & Entertainment

CATE PARK cate@groovekorea.com

Music

BECKY WHITE beckyw@groovekorea.com

Copyeditor

GIL COOMBE gil@groovekorea.com

PHOTOGRAPHY Creative Director

DANIEL KIM daniel@groovekorea.com

GRAPHIC DESIGN Design Director

@BLUISH28

Advertising

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General Inquiries

info@groovekorea.com

To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editors.

To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com To promote and event or share your opinions, please email info@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

STRIKE COMMUNICATIONS Publisher

SEAN CHOI sean@groovekorea.com

STAFF WRITERS / COLUMNISTS Amy Benham, Katie Martin, Jill Robbins, Jiaying Lim

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The articles are the sole property of GROOVE KOREA. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE KOREA. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. © All rights reserved Groove Korea 2006

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FESTIVALS 8

Palace Moonlight (Night) Tour Gyeongbokgung Until May 5 Changdeokgung Sundays during May 9 – June 9 Deoksugung Until May 12

Seoul Bamdokkaebi Night Market @Yeoido (World Night Market) Fridays and Saturdays Offers exotic foods, special handmade items, and unique performances by artists from a wide variety of countries.

@Cheonggyecheon (Time Tour Market) Saturdays and Sundays

@Banpo (Romantic Moonlight Market) Fridays and Saturdays

Located in the heart of Seoul, it is a tourist-oriented market where you can find diverse tourism products and handmade souvenirs that reflect both traditional and modern Korea at the same time.

Offers not only delicious foods but also diverse events, romantic performances, an artists’ flea market, and one-of-a-kind keepsakes.

@Oil Tank Culture Park Saturdays and Sundays (May 4-6, 11-12, 18-19)

@DDP (Youth Runway Market) Fridays and Saturdays This trendy night market is filled with music, young artists ,and musical performances set against the unique nightscape of the DDP.

An eco-friendly night market held in the forest amid the leisurely beauty of spring. Offers delicious foods and products based on innovative ideas.

Lotte World Tower Fireworks Festival

Lotus Lantern Festival

May 4 / 8:30pm

The largest parade in Seoul starting at Dongguk Univ. to Jongno with amazing and original shapes of lanterns.

The Jeju Canola Flower Festival is one of the most famous festivals in Jeju, signaling the start of spring with fields upon fields of bright yellow flowers and famous for honeymooners’ photos.

May 3 – 5

Damyang Bamboo Festival May 1 – 6 Damyang, Jeollanam-do Strolling along 2.4 kilometers surrounded with the Korea’s largest bamboo forest is the main event of the festival.

Korea Traditional Art Festival on Kukakro in Jongno May 11. 2pm-5pm Kukakro near Changdeokgun

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FESTIVALS 10

Sinchon Night Walk Cultural and local festival associated with local vendors in Sinchon

D-festa (Daehakro Street Performance Festival) May 17 – 19 Daehakro 8-gil, 1 at Hyehwa-dong

HBC (Haebangchon) May Music Festival May 25 The largest expat community festival in Seoul followed by HBC SOUTH Fest in Pyeongtaek on June 1. 15+ bars and restaurants and 30+ music bands playing and partying all day and night bringing neighbors and guests together with the music.

Seoul Africa Festival

Seoul Drum Festival

May 25 Wangsipri Plaza

May 24 – 25 Seoul Plaza

The largest African culture festival in Korea introducing its food, fashion, and arts.

The festival celebrates its 20th anniversary, and with the theme, the nonverbal percussion instrument, a fun and exciting arts festival that can be enjoyed by all.

Seongbuk Global Food Festival Nurimasil

Chuncheon International Mime Festival

May 26 Around Hanseong Univ. Station. Line #4

May 25 – June 2

Strolling along 2.4 kilometers surrounded with the Korea’s largest bamboo forest is the main event of the festival.

As one of 3 biggest mime festivals in the world along with London’s Mime Festival and Mimos Mime Festival in France, Chuncheon International Mime Festival will be held throughout downtown Chuncheon in Jungang-ro, Festival Theater Momzit, Animation Museum, Seumusup Park, and Waterfront Park in Chuncheon. The festival focuses on the genre of mine based on ‘body, movement, and image’ to express various genres.

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EXHIBITIONS 12

Anton Vidokle: Immortality For All National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA, Seoul) Immortality For All, a film trilogy from 1014 to 2017 produced by Anton Vidokle, born in Moscow and is currently based in NY and Berlin as an artist and filmmaker, probes contemporary reflections on Russian Cosmism, a system of thought developed in the late 19th by Russian philosopher Nikolai Fedorov.

Alternative Languages: Asger Jorn, the artist as a social activist National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA, Seoul) Danish artist Asger Jorn, the founder of avant-garde groups like CoBra and Situationist International, who stood in the frontier of socially engaged art movements in mid 20th. 90+ works including paintings, sculptures, photographs, textiles, and archive materials by Asger will be exhibited.

Jaime Hayon: Serious Fun Daelim Museum, Jongno, Seoul

I draw D Museum: Hannam-dong, Seoul 16 artists, Pierre Le-Tan, Hattie Stewart, Unskilled Worker, Oamul Lu, Youngjun Kim, Ram Han, Moonassi, Shin Morae, Eomyujeong, Kyuhyung Cho, and more, showcases 350 art works for multisensory experience.

Collection from Vietnam National Museum of History National Museum of Korea

Modern Transitions in Korean Calligraphy and Painting National Museum of Korea Shed light on trends in Korean painting and calligraphy during the turbulent years at the turn of the 20th century.

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CONCERTS 14

Sons of an illustrious Father May 4 YES24 LIVE Hall

Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds

The Jesus and Mary chain

May 19 & 20 Olympic Park

May 17 MUV Hall

EK Language Services Translation and Editing services

영어/스페인어/프랑스어 Seoul Jazz Festival May 25 – 26 Olympic Park Wynton Marsalis, Omara Poruondo, John Scofield’s Combo 66, Pink Martini, Rudimental, Clean Bandit, Christian McBride and Tip City, and 30+ artists 1-day ticket 165,000KRW 2-days ticket 245,000KRW

한글

English, French, and Spanish native speakers on 24/7 basis Affordable price Professional and Guaranteed Quality translations 24-Hour Turnaround 10+ years of experience

ekservices247@gmail.com

Partners with Hyundai Motors, Groove Korea, KIWI Chamber of Commerce, British Chamber of Commerce, Embassy of Finland, GS Shopping and more

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LASEK

A review of Dream Eye Center Looking ahead to a brighter future

Story NELL ROBBINS • Photos DANIEL KIM

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I

’d been struggling with terrible night vision for a few years – a fun fact I didn’t learn until, when visiting back home in the States and driving to my Aunt’s in the evening, I realized I couldn’t see the lines on the road for the different car lanes.

When Sean approached me about getting LASEK in exchange for writing a review in Groove, I was happy to jump at the opportunity. While much more affordable in Korea than back home in the US, it’s not a small chunk of change to be throwing around or taking for granted.

I went to the clinic, located in Gangnam, and was immediately impressed. The staff was super friendly and helpful, offering me tea, and a locker for my belongings.

They quickly took my information and had me meet with one of their techs right away, where I was informed of the process of LASEK versus LASIK and told that, depending on my testing results, I would decide on which of the two procedures to choose.

They have the entire process on their site in English, and the technician sat with me, telling me how each procedure is beneficial in its own way, depending on your vision needs or your cornea shape or thickness. Those who have thinner corneas for instance, are better off getting LASEK instead of LASIK. From there, I got to go around the entire clinic for the tests. There are 24 tests for patients to help guarantee the best results that will help them determine the proper treatment.

First, was the auto-refractive keratometry test to look for vision problems

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Next came an intraocular pressure test, which is a fancy way of saying a small puff of air is blown on the eye to measure eye pressure. It was a bit startling at first, but not uncomfortable

like near or far sightedness. I had to focus my vision on a fixation target – in this case, a farmhouse off in a distant field.

Next came an intraocular pressure test, which is a fancy way of saying a small puff of air is blown on the eye to measure eye pressure. It was a bit startling at first, but not uncomfortable.

Following that was the ORK-cam test, to measure methods and options for surgery.

I had to look into a big lamp with dozens of orange spiraling rings, feeling vaguely as if I were in a twilight zone lab test. After staring into the lights, I had a bit of lingering glow, but nothing uncomfortable.

Then came a topography test to determine the shape of my cornea, followed by a pentacam test. After looking straight at a green light at the end of a black tunnel, Dream Eye can study the shape, thickness, contour, and integrity of the cornea.

Following that came the wavescan aberrometer. Looking at yet another light, this time the technology calculates

refractory errors and wave aberrations.

Next came the tests pretty much anyone who’s gotten a physical can recall. The naked vision test (using one eye at a time to identify letters on the chart), the static retinoscopy (when you wear glasses with interchangeable lenses), a strabismus test (another one-eye-only test), and a binocular vision test (using red and blue lenses to test focusing accuracy, flexibility, and strength).

Then came the stereo vision test to analyze depth perception, and a pupil measuring test. Cornea thickness is tested again, and then followed by a CT scan to detect potential infectious conditions. Then follows the A-scan test, to provide data on the length of the eye.

The following Schirmer’s test is perhaps the only “uncomfortable” test. However, knowing my eyes are more sensitive than most, I believe it when the technician told me people don’t usually react to the test so strongly. Two little pieces of filter paper are placed in the lower eyelid pouch to assess

teardrop production. Aside from some minor stinging, it wasn’t bad.

I was then given drops to enlarge my pupils and did 3 more tests with Dr. ChoongKi Jung. Basically, I sat in a chair with my chin in a device while he shined a light at my eyes for the slit lamp, optic nerve, and fundus test.

As daunting as it might seem reading it all listed off, the whole procedure took only about 90 minutes, and the time sped by as I was constantly moved from chair to chair and one part of the clinic to another.

It was all quite interesting talking with the technicians and going through all the different exams.

Dr. Jung explained that due to my thinner corneas I was a prime candidate for LASEK. We scheduled a time for the procedure, and I came back a couple weeks later, nervous but ready.

First, they put numbing drops in my eyes to prepare me for the procedure. Fifteen minutes later, they had me lay down on the table, inserted the devices to hold my eyes open, and put in the solution to remove the outermost layer of the cornea – and that’s when my nerves kicked in.

I reiterate – this surgery was utterly PAINLESS, I’m just the type to get jittery during surgeries. When my vision suddenly got clearer and I realized that’s because a layer of the corneal epithelium was removed, I couldn’t stop my teeth from chattering, which made it hard for me to hold still enough to use the laser.

The nurse was super kind and supportive though, and Dr. Jung was very patient with me.

The nurse got me a blanaket, held my hand,

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SPONSOR

and rubbed my shoulder, while the Dr. told me not to apologize for my jitters and that it was common for many of their patients to have even stronger cases of nerves kick in.

If you are the type to get nervous, I would suggest talking it over in advance to see if you can get yourself a sedative of some sort prior. I hadn’t thought I would have such a strong reaction, so I hadn’t thought of it myself.

Eventually, my jitters settled, and with a quick blink of a green light, and getting protective contact lenses put in, it was done! Literally, the entire procedure takes seconds to do. The longest part is waiting the fifteen minutes for the drops to kick in.

I must admit, the “Congratulations” song they play at the end felt a bit patronizing, but I understand it was coming from a well-intended place. You likely can request that no music be played afterwards, but honestly, why not have some comedy gold to enjoy after your procedure?

I went and laid down for about thirty minutes in their resting room, with headphones playing soothing music. I actually drifted off to sleep until I was gently woken by the assistant and went on my way.

As for the recovery, I would suggest talking with the doctor in advance – especially if you have green or blue eyes.

Apparently, lighter colored eyes are more prone to sensitivity after the surgery.

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Having green eyes, the pain for me was pretty intense, and had I not done this over a holiday weekend, I would have been able to go back and get stronger medication. I also strongly recommend having a series of podcasts ready to listen to as it helps to distract from the pain. Being unable to read or watch TV, and unable to sleep due to discomfort, was pretty rough. Eventually my husband set up some LeVar Burton Reads for me, and it made my recovery much more bearable. If you have a partner, friend, or

roommate willing to crash with you for the recovery process, I would highly encourage it, as I wouldn’t have been able to play the podcast from my phone myself. Even with the brightness down to it’s lowest, my phone’s screen was too intense. Opening the fridge was also a bit of a nightmare. If you don’t own curtains, you will need to find a way to temporarily cover up your windows or your recovery will be rough.

After three days though, I was pretty much back to normal. I wasn’t able to apply makeup to my eyes for another week, but that’s what we have sunglasses for, after all. And sure enough, within another week I could already notice differences in my night vision, being able to recognize friends from down the road in the dark and read signs that I otherwise had been unable to unless closer.

I went in for my follow appointments, including getting my protective lens removed a week later, a follow up check two weeks later, and was glad to hear my vision was above 20/20! Dr. Jung told me in the following three months I’d gain even more ability to see as my eyes healed fully.

Again, I would highly recommend the procedure to those considering it, and I would even further recommend Dream Eye Center. They are a wonderful clinic with a dream team staff, professional atmosphere, and amazing results!

COVER STORY

The death of a friend The process of losing a pet in South Korea Story EMMA KALKA Photos UNSPLASH STOCK PHOTOS

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merican Donna Williams is no stranger to dealing with the loss of a pet.

The Seoul resident is a certified animal trainer in three countries and has worked with several programs through the UN to rescue animals. As a rule, she only rescues older animals that are nearing the end of their lives. As such, she knows what goes into caring for these animals, though it doesn’t make it any easier.

“I’m aware that animal hospice is some of the most expensive years of their life,” she said, explaining that she knew what she was getting into two years ago when she picked up her dog Odin off the side of the road after he was hit by a car.

And truthfully, that first night she took him to the vet, she was told to put him down, but she pushed the vet to just try and ended up spending 900,000 won.

The small pup had a broken skull from the car and his eye was leaking into this head. On top of that, he had chronic heart failure, stage 3 heartworm, and was later diagnosed with testicular cancer. He went through a round of surgeries and ended up costing her about 700,000 won a month in medical bills because of the medicine he required. Odin was anywhere from 10 to 12 years old at the time.

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COVER STORY

Despite knowing Odin wouldn’t live long, when the time came to put him down, it was still difficult. The vet’s best guess, Williams said, was that Odin had slipped while she was gone and twisted his spine which cause a massive edema, paralyzing him and causing extreme pain.

“I had spent two years making sure that his heart didn’t fail, and it didn’t. His spine failed,” she said wryly. “And because his spine failed, I had to stop his heart. And I had to pay money to stop his heart, which was like… oh there was irony there.”

Euthanasia in Korea The decision to put down a pet is never an easy one and involves a lot of thought and consultation with a vet. Most vets in Korea follow U.S. guidelines for euthanasia, according to Yang Kyung-mo, the main vet at Perth Animal Hospital in Haebangcheon, though it does vary by vet and their training.

He said the decision is usually only made for pet whose disease cannot be controlled and there is no more proper quality of life.

In Williams experience, after Odin’s accident and taking into consideration his many medical issues, she knew it was the right decision even though she felt horrible for making it. But she had to fight to get a vet to agree.

The first hospital tried to push her into doing a surgery that would cost her roughly 7 million won, saying without it he would never walk again. When she expressed concerns that he wouldn’t survive the surgery because of his heart and then stated there was no way she afford the procedure, she was told to go home with Odin and just watch him lay there.

“It was beyond horrible,” she said. “It was really hard to hear that if I couldn’t cough up $7000-8000 that I could just go home and watch my dog suffer. I was like, no, this is not right.”

She then went to a second vet, who did a steroid treatment - a lower risk and less expensive treatment option. For a month, Odin was walking again and seemingly not in pain. But after they weaned him off medication, it was apparent he only improved because of the meds - not because the injury had healed. And it never would.

But even then, the vet gave her pushback.

“I was like, this is a paralyzed dog who is

It was beyond horrible... It was really hard to hear that if I couldn’t cough up $7,000$8,000 that I could just go home and watch my dog suffer.

I was like, no, this is not right Donna Williams

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COVER STORY

clearly in pain and never going to heal. Like, please, let me just put him down,” she said.

“I was forced to go through the steroids with him kind of knowing in the back of my mind that he wasn’t going to survive.”

Then there was the cost. Williams said she paid about 300,000 won to put Odin down, though she received a large discount because of his previous medical costs.

According to Dr. Kang at Perth, the total cost varies by pet and clinic as it is determined by the animal’s weight though it usually starts at around 200,000 won.

The process follows U.S. guidelines, Dr. Kang said. At his clinic, they start with painkillers and sedation through an intravenous catheter.

They then give the owner time to spend with their pet before administering the euthanasia medication. He said they recommend that the owner stay with the pet while they do so, though if they do not, they allow the owner to step out.

Choosing to stay or not is a very personal decision, and there is no right or wrong answer - it’s up to what the pet owner can handle.

Remains Disposal In the U.S., most pet owners tend to bury pets at home. However with the lack of yards in Korea and the fact that it is illegal to bury a pet unless you own the land, the only option is often cremation. Clinics have two options - private cremation which will allow for the ashes to be returned to the owner or public cremation. The cost of private cremation varies by company, but Dr. Kang said most cost around 200,000 to 250,000 won for an animal that weighs up to 6kg.

In comparison, the cost of cremating a human body in South Korea can start as low as 100,000 won when government subsidies are taken into consideration.

For American Nick Holmes, the cost of disposing of a passed animal came as a shock. His cat Neville passed away suddenly and out of the blue at home one night and caught him completely off guard. He wasn’t old, nor had he been ill or injured prior.

“This was on a Sunday night. I was freaking out and hyperventilating, so my roommates were all… they weren’t freaking out as much as I was,” he said. “And they ended up wrapping him up in a towel and put him in the freezer. It was late at night.”

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Cost of Pet Cremation in Korea (varies by weight) Starts at 200,000 won Cost of Pet Euthanasia in Korea (varies by weight) Starts at 200,000 won Cost of Pet Cremation in US Starts at $80 for pets up to 30 lbs.

Cost of Pet Euthanasia in US (Average) At-home - $85-$125 (dependinG on state) In-office - $150

They made some calls and were quoted by a friend who worked at a cat shelter that public cremation would cost around 200,000 won. The next morning he went to a vet to consult on it and was given a price of 280,000 won.

At the time, Holmes said he was very broke and just couldn’t afford it, so asked if there were any other options. The vet assistant then told him that if he truly couldn’t pay, he could call the district office and tell them that he found a dead stray on the road and they would come pick up the remains for free.

“So I had a Korean friend call the district office and before I left for work that day, I put Neville’s frozen body in a plastic bag and I put it on the side of the road,” he said.

Grieving Losing a pet can be just as painful as losing a loved one. These are animals that people raise and often come to see as their own child. They are literally losing a family member in their mind.

Holmes said that for a few weeks after, he would think about Neville and start crying.

He found himself missing random things, like his annoyingly constant meowing and neediness.

“You never think you’re going to miss that stuff,” he admitted.

Williams said that over the years she’s learned her grieving process, but it still sucks. For about two weeks after Odin’s passing, she couldn’t even talk about it and warned her friends not to bring it up until she was ready. It was compounded by the fact it wasn’t a sudden death.

“Your hands aren’t clean. You do need to make a judgement call. And then you go home and sit with all the things you’ve acquired for your pet,” she said, though she added that keeping a sense of humor did help temper the process. “Knowing that on full medication Odin didn’t feel much pain and could walk, I still made the judgement call to put him down. So I didn’t feel like a good person. Even though I knew it was a good call.”

Editor’s note: Some of the names have been changed or omitted for privacy reasons.

COVER STORY

Out and I about with your pup More establishments becoming dog-friendly Story EMMA KALKA Photos PLANT, BAKERS TABLE, EMMA KALKA

’s a conundrum that many a pet owner has faced. You want to go out and get a drink or coffee or some food with your friends, but as you are walking out the door, your pup is standing next to you, begging to go with - hence the cliche “puppy dog eyes.” Most of the time, you bend down and promise to be back soon, but as you leave, you can’t help but feel bad for leaving your furbaby behind.

At least this is what I go through everytime I leave my house to catch up with friends in the neighborhood. And seriously, if you’ve seen my pup Morgan, you would know just how hard it is to say no to that face. Hence why I set out on a mission to find all the pet-friendly places in my area that I could.

If you live in the Itaewon area - like me - you are in luck. While there are already several dog cafes, the number of other places where your dog can also tag along

is growing. No longer will you have to bear parting from your pup while enjoying a meal or a drink, as more cafes, bars, and restaurants are now welcoming guests of the furry persuasion. Some only allow them on certain days of the week or in certain areas, but still - it’s better than leaving them home alone. Now you can all go out and have fun together.

Here is a short guide to some of my favorite places to take my dog in Itaewon, Haebangcheon, and Kyungridan. And even though it may not need to be said, it’s always good to practice common pet courtesy - keep your pup on a leash or in a carrier and always clean up after them. And make sure they don’t destroy anything.

While these venues are open to dogs, let’s return the favor by being courteous. Also, while you should always drink responsibly, it is good to be a little extra responsible if you are out drinking with the pup in tow.

Linus BBQ… and Chicken That’s right, you can bring your furry friend along with you to eat some finger-licking good barbecue. Dogs are allowed in the first floor bar area and the restaurant offers complimentary water and homemade rawhide bones, though they are on a first-come, first-served basis.

Monday-Friday 5-10:30 PM; Saturday-Sunday 11 AM-10:30 PM

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COVER STORY

Baker’s Table A popular brunch spot in Kyungridan (and a personal favorite of mine), dogs are allowed on the terrace. This is probably for the better as inside can get a bit crowded during their rush hour and pups could easily get caught underfoot. Plus, with the weather warming up, why would you want to eat indoors anyway?

Hours: Everyday 8 AM-9 PM

PLANT For those who are vegan or vegetarian, this popular restaurant/cafe allows your furry friends to join you. However, they do ask that you keep your pet on a leash or in a carrier so that they aren’t running around the place. Also, they ask that dogs not eat from the table or sit on the chairs or sofas.

Hours: PLANT Cafe & Kitchen: Mon-Sat 11 AM-10 PM (Closed Sundays); PLANT Bakery: Mon-Sat 11 AM-6 PM (Closed Sundays)

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COVER STORY

Bucket Beach Known for its infamous buckets and hookah, doggos are welcome inside Bucket Beach, though be warned you might lose them to the bartenders at random times as they are all doglovers and enjoy frequent cuddles when they aren’t making drinks.

While Morgan enjoyed investigating all the nooks and crannies, I think he enjoyed the attention more.

Rabbithole Arcade Pub While Rabbithole is probably better known for its fun drag events on the weekends, it’s a nice place to pop by for a drink during the week and your pup is more than welcome to tag along. Again, pets are allowed only on weeknights (Mon-Thurs) when things are slower and it’s easier to keep track of them. Morgan personally loves taking to the stage.

Pocket It’s not odd to see pups running around this small bar in Haebangcheon. In fact, the bartenders frequently bring in the dogs they are pet-sitting or own and joke that pups are taking over on their Instagram. It’s a great place to chill and chat over a glass of wine while the doggos enjoy their water - at least for Morgan.

Monday-Tuesday CLOSED; WednesdayThursday-Sunday 7 PM - 1 AM; FridaySaturday 7 PM - 3 AM Hours: Monday-Thursday 8 PM - 2 AM; Friday 7 PM - 4 AM; Saturday 7 PM - 5 AM; Sunday 4 PM - 10 PM

Hours: Mon-Thurs 7 PM-1 AM; Fri-Sat 7 PM-3 AM; Sun 5 PM-12 AM

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COVER STORY

Southside Parlor The owners of this bar and restaurant often bring in their own dogs, so it’s no surprise that they would welcome others. Dogs are welcomed any night of the week, but on Thursdays they have a special Puppy Night.

Anyone who comes with a pup gets a discount on bottled beer, house wine, and cider. A good deal for both pet owners and their furbabies.

Maloney’s Pub & Grill Pups of all sizes are welcomed at Maloney’s any day of the week and as long as they are behaved, get along well with others, and stay close, you can take them off their leash. The bar regulars are also fans of pups and may ask for a pet or two. Morgan definitely enjoyed just chilling under my stool when he wasn’t investigating the other dogs.

Mon-Fri 6 PM-3 AM; Sat 12 PM-5 AM; Sun 12 PM-1 AM Tues-Thurs 6 PM-12 AM; Fri-Sat 6PM-2 AM; Sun 6 PM-12 AM (Closed Mondays)

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Hair of the Dog It should come as no surprise that the aptly named Hair of the Dog is dog-friendly. They have no rules, but do ask that pet-owners practice common sense when bringing in their furry friends. Keep track of them and don’t let them run amuck.

Mon-Wed-Thur 7 PM-1 AM; Fri 7 PM-2 AM; Sat 6 PM-2 AM; Sun 6 PM-1 AM (Closed Tuesdays)

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Dadog Cafe & Pub While at first glance, Dadog appears to be your usual dog cafe, it’s so much more than that. They do offer the usual coffee, juice and tea, but also on the menu is beer. The owner has seven dogs of his own, so there will always be pups around, but it doubles as a doggy daycare and pet hotel. It’s a great place to hang out for a couple hours and get your dog fix if you don’t have any of your own - there is always a variety of small and large breeds. Or if you’re me, get your big dog fix while your own pup gets to socialize with other dogs. It is definitely one of our favorite spots in the neighborhood.

Mon-Sun 12 PM-10 PM

Petground If there is anything you need for your pup, Petground has it. They offer grooming in the mornings, while in the afternoons they open up as a dog cafe. They also offer pet daycare and boarding. The owners are super nice and not only send alerts when your pup is done with their haircut, but they also send photos. The one thing Morgan hates more than anything is getting a haircut (or bath… or brushed) but they are super gentle with him and by the time I pick him up, he’s always happy as a clam and running around with the other pups there.

Mon-Fri 3-10 PM; Sat-Sun 1 PM-10 PM

Other Pet-friendly Establishments Living Room Workshop Hidden Cellar Sunset Beach VER’S Beigel’s Caff’e Seoul Blues

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Owning Pet Rats The underdogs of the pet world

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hat pets do you have?”

“Rats.”

“I’m sorry, did you say rats?”

“Yeah. They’re great pets.”

That’s typically when the looks of dubious suspicion start showing, even when whoever I’m talking to is trying to be polite.

It never gets old, watching people react to “rats” in pet conversations. Fun fact, though: I’ve “converted” five people into rat owners and helped around a dozen people who had feared rodents to come to enjoy playing with them.

When I sum up what it’s like owning a pet rat to others, I find myself saying, “It’s like owning a bark-less dog that can fit in your hand and happens to have what people may say is an ‘ugly’ tail.”

In the eyes of any rat owner, rats are the underdog of the pet world. Often misunderstood, they truly are great pets to have, despite the myth.

Myth #1: Rats are dirty (they were carriers for the plague, after all).

False: It was fleas that were the true plague carriers. Pet rats are quite clean and will even push dirty bedding out between their cage bars if you don’t clean it often enough.

It’s even possible to potty train them. I’ve often seen my own rats wash their paws from their water bottle as well.

Myth #2: Rats are wild animals that bite!

Domestic rats are physiologically and psychologically different from their wild counterparts. It’s more likely a wild rat will attempt to attack or eat a domestic rat than mate with them. Humans have selectively bred rats since the 18th century - like dogs and cats - to be more docile, companionable and of course pathogen and contagion free!

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Story NELL ROBBINS

Myth #3: Rats are mean.

Absolutely untrue. Out of my past and current rats, not one had or ever has ever bitten anyone – including the children mine often played with at my old hagwon job (and they weren’t the gentlest bunch). Rats have shown empathy in testing, often faster than human or other animal counterparts. They can quickly identify and build a bond with their owners and enjoy playing – it’s even been discovered that rats like to be tickled!

So now that we’ve gotten the myths out of the way, let’s go over some perks of rat ownership: Rats Are Smart.

It’s easy to train rats the same way you would a dog. Fetch, come, sit, spin, kisses…

They can learn a multitude of tricks at the same rate you teach a dog, sometimes even faster. They can also identify their names and can differentiate between their owners and other friends or family. Scientists also recently discovered there is a lot more to rat language than originally thought. They suspect their language might even have syntax.

Rats Are Affectionate and Empathic.

Rats are commonly known to groom their owners, dole out kisses, and enjoy snuggling and playtime. Scientists have discovered rats not only enjoy being tickled, but they will chase the hands of their trainers and owners to encourage tickling. In a separate study on empathy, researchers placed one free rat with a fellow rat who was trapped in a cage. The free rat quickly learned how to set their trapped friend free – even when given the choice of either freeing the trapped rat or opening a container full of chocolate. The free rats would unleash both their cagemate and the chocolate before sharing the treat together.

Rats Require Less Maintenance.

There are no walks at 3AM, in the rain, or litterboxes with a rat. You don’t have to worry they’ll eat your shoes or claw the furniture. So long as you leave them enough food and water, a weekend getaway won’t require a pet sitter or friend to come check on them. You certainly have no risk of noise complaints from neighbors, and their cages, bedding, and food won’t break your bills either.

Rats Are Great Pets for Owners Living Abroad.

As many expats in Seoul can relate, it’s a very transient lifestyle. You know you want to live abroad for a couple years, maybe even three or four, but you’re not certain exactly how long. Well, you don’t have to worry about making yourself a long-term commitment like you would with a cat or dog, or even a rabbit. Rats typically live an average of two to three years, so there aren’t concerns for what to do with your pet when you want to move on from living abroad or take a few months to backpack around between finding work.

Rats Are Great Pets for An On-The-Go Lifestyle One of the things I enjoy most about my rats is the ability to just grab a bag, toss them in, and go run my errands. Between being a freelance performer and writing the occasional Groove article, I live a busy lifestyle. Rats are social animals, but as they are easily trained, it’s simple to establish boundaries with them between when they are allowed out and about their carrier bag versus when they need to stay tucked away.

As a quiet and sociable pet that’s super easy to transport, they come with me nearly anywhere without issue.

Long story short, rats aren’t the wild, dirty, aggressive, and villainous critter they’re portrayed to be. If you’re looking for companionship, but don’t want the level of maintenance that your other average pets typically require, consider getting a rat!

Interested in getting a rat, but don’t know where to start? Try contacting Julia at @hbc_rattery on Instagram or reaching out to http://rodentclub.co.kr

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Where Dogs Play Parks and playgrounds: environments where dogs thrive Story WENDY PALOMO Photos WENDY PALOMO, TERESA GATMAITAN

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eoul days is, at its worst, extremely hazardous to one’s health and wellbeing. At its best, clear blue skies cover the city and all residents can go out to open cafes and spaces to bask in the luxury of fresh air. Seoul is at its best one Monday morning as Marissa and Chloe, her nine-year old Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, stroll around Namsan Park. Aside from being home to Seoul’s iconic Namsan Tower, Namsan Park is a huge space of tranquility rising above the bustling city. It has idyllic walking trails perfect for families, children, and their fur babies.

Chloe takes her time nibbling the grass, smelling the flowers, relishing the attention of other people walking by, and greeting other dogs in their own doggy language. She looks calm and content strolling around but also perks up when another dog shows interest in spending time with her. Asked if Chloe goes to dog cafés for some playtime and dog socializing, Marissa isn’t too keen on the idea as Namsan Park provides ample opportunity for Chloe to interact with other dogs. Whenever she sees her dog friends in the park (dogs owned by Marissa’s friend who Chloe sometimes stays with when Marissa travels), she excitedly veers towards them to play just like old friends do.

Such is the ambiance at Namsan Park: family, kid, and pet-friendly. Dog owners living around the park regularly walk their dogs and meet and greet one another, when the weather and air quality permit.

Northwest of Seoul, in Ilsan, Teresa and her four toy poodles regularly take their

walks in the concrete paved roads in their Western Dom neighborhood. Sevenyear old Buttercup, mom to triplets Hana, George, and Sam, was brought to Korea by Teresa without knowing that she was pregnant. Remarkably Teresa, who always had a dog growing up, had Buttercup give birth to her triplets in their Ilsan apartment without the aid of a veterinarian. The puppies are now 3 years old and she calls them her “Kpups.”

Aside from walking them around their Western Dom neighborhood, the family also walks them around Ilsan Park. Or they bring them to dog-friendly malls like the IFC Mall in Yeoiudo, Starfield Mall in Goyang and Lotte Mall in Gimpo.

These malls allow dogs in their common areas, but pets should be on a leash at all times. Some restaurants inside

these malls provide for outdoor seating for pet owners, a good effort to balance the needs of pet owners and diners who desire to enjoy their meals without disturbance.

Dogs are now regular walking buddies, but they come as single partners to their owners. In some rare cases, a pet owner has two. So, how do people react to four toy poodles together? “When people see us walking our four fur babies, they find it either cute or they have this perplexed reaction,” says Teresa. She doesn’t really mind as she finds Korea a great place to raise her fur babies. In addition to her satisfaction with their veterinarian, she loves the dog apparel and accessories that are easily available, which is another indication how widely accepted dogs are now as members of the household.

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Dogs play and mingle without leashes.

This freedom comes with a requirement: up-to-date vaccinations.

Marissa’s Chloe is happy with occasional playdates with her canine friends and interactions at the park. Teresa’s four puppies don’t lack social interaction and play. They are a tight bunch and they are content to have each other. But for dog owners who want the opportunity for their fur babies to play with other dogs, Seoul has dog parks to cater to their needs. They play, run around and mingle with other dogs without a leash.

The dog playgrounds at Boramae Park and World Cup Park will now be open the whole year round, in contrast to previous years when these were closed during winter. This decision came after a successful winter trial at the World Cup Park dog playground. Groove talked to the park manager at World Cup Park and he said that, on average, there are around 300 dogs using the park during the weekends and a good number during the weekdays.

Boramae Park was opened after its winter hiatus last February 2, 2019 and will no longer be closed during winter. The dog park at Children’s Grand Park is also now open but may still be closed for winter until further notice.

Because the dog playgrounds are enclosed areas, dogs play and mingle without leashes. But this freedom comes with a requirement. Only dogs registered with the Animal Protection Management System are allowed to get inside the gated playgrounds. For registration requirements, dog owners have to

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ensure that their dogs have up-to-date vaccinations. Their pet’s veterinarian will issue a certificate so their dogs can be registered and will have a corresponding registration number that will enable them to get inside the playgrounds.

Dog playgrounds have separate spaces for dogs of various sizes. At the playground at World Cup Park, small and medium-sized dogs with a maximum height of 40 cm are separated from larger dogs. When Groove visited the park, the park manager allowed a small dog to go in the big dogs’ space as there was only one big dog playing. This is rarely, if at all, done and the dog owners

were inside the whole time. They were playful with each other, despite the huge difference in size.

The park manager is only on duty from 10 in the morning until 5 in the afternoon, but the park remains open for the rest of the day and night. It is the dog owners’ obligation to keep their dogs safe and the place clean.

Though more needs to be done in Korea for the well-being of dogs, much has already changed for the better in a country once known for its consumption of dog meat. The numerous dog-friendly parks are evidence of this.

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Trained at TONI & GUY and VIDAL SASSOON Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Tel 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243 3rd fl. 168-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu Qunohair Gangnam / Apgujeong Branch Tel 02.549.0335 10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul www.qunohair.com

www.hairnandjoy.com 31

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ot many schools can boast a 400-year history.

Dulwich College, a top boarding school based in the UK, is one of those, having grown its school over the years to include campuses all over the world including Dulwich College Seoul. It is celebrating its 400-year anniversary this year through a number of events, most notably the Dulwich Olympiad that took place in March and the upcoming Founder’s Day set to take place here in Seoul at the end of May.

CELEBRATING

400 YEARS

Dulwich College Seoul attends Olympiad, hosts Founder’s Day Story EMMA KALKA Photos DULWICH COLLEGE SEOUL

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The Olympiad Dulwich College Seoul sent a team of over 60 students and teachers to take in the sights of London as well as participate in events across sports and the arts. It was an unforgettable experience for not only the students, but the staff as well.

“As ever, students from Dulwich College Seoul ‘punched above their weight’ in all disciplines of sports, music, drama and visual arts,” said Graeme Salt, the head of the college. “The Olympiad spirit of course values participation above performance, but still, we were delighted by the way our students matched up against other schools.”

The team was in London from March 24-29 and competed in such sports as football, badminton, basketball, swimming and athletics. Musicians from various programs at the school participated in several concerts throughout the period while actors formed a small company and put on a short performance as well as taking part in workshops. The group was blessed with good weather all week, which only helped make the trip better.

“Before I went on the trip, I thought that London would be a very foggy and rainy place and that it would be a little bit hard to walk around,” said Gavin, a Year 10 student. “From my overall experience in London, I think that it is a very international and welcoming place and it really made we want to visit London again.”

The sports teams started off their week by attending an English Premiership Rugby match at London Stadium between the Saracens and Harlequins. Prior to the match, they took part in a parade in front of

COMMUNITY Founder’s Day 2019 DATE:

MAY 25

The displays around the art department in Dulwich College London and the exhibition of the artworks’ students sent from each college gave me inspiration for the future artworks that would produce.

11 am-4 pm LOCATION:

Suan, Year 10 the spectators and got up-close experience of the players’ warm-up routines. The next day they then had a fun game of touch rugby, where they were able to learn a new sport and make some new friends.

Throughout the week when they weren’t competing they also had the chance to tour London Stadium.

But once the competition set it, the students were focused, winning several medals in athletics on the first day. The momentum continued into the football tournament, where all four teams played well. In basketball, three of the four teams placed in the top three of their divisions with the U13 boys team winning first. The last competition was swimming, were Dulwich Seoul students set new records.

“The highlight of my trip was getting to better know older kids from our school, as well as winning gold in the Olympic pool,” said Year 8 student Youngsoo. He garnered an Olympiad record-winning gold medal in both the individual and relay race.

While still jet-lagged, the artistic team dove into all that London and the Olympiad had to offer from the get-go. Their first experience after arriving was to take part in an “Art Hijack” where fortune cookies revealed a hidden drawing task that later became part of a large installation displayed at Dulwich College Britain. They then took part in workshops all week with the likes of puppet-maker Sian Kidd and ceramicist Sarah Christie.

“Possibly the most impressive qualities demonstrated by our artists during this time wasn’t necessarily their creative competence or innovation, but their confidence, humor and compassion,” said Shelley Swain, head of Art and Design at Dulwich College Seoul.

Year 10 art student Suan said that the highlight of the trip for her was just walking around London, which has many well-known

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artworks that she could only imagine in Seoul. This was her first time in the city.

“As art students, we dedicated a whole day to walk around London, visiting a wide variety of galleries. Walking past everyday buildings and architecture itself was a truly mesmerizing experience,” she said. She added that she had the chance to meet many artists and see a range of artwork that she wasn’t accustomed to.

Dulwich College Seoul (6 Sinbanporo 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul) ENTRANCE:

Open to the public

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The highlight of the Olympiad was having the opportunity to perform in the Queen Elizabeth Hall, a famous London stage for music and theatre. The feeling of standing on stage during curtain call after performing was amazing.

Ellie, Year 10

“The displays around the art department in Dulwich College London and the exhibition of the artworks’ students sent from each college gave me inspiration for the future artworks that would produce,” she said.

The music and drama students certainly had their week full as well, with a number of concerts going on as well as putting on a stage production of Dr. Faustus.

While this wasn’t the first trip to London for Year 10 drama student Ellie, she said this year she had more time to travel and really notice the difference between Seoul and London. She said that she loved the scenery of the city including the old architecture that still remains.

She was part of 90 students working on the production of Dr. Faustus and said she collaborated with some of the most hilarious people she had ever met.

“The highlight of the Olympiad was having the opportunity to perform in the Queen Elizabeth Hall, a famous London stage for music and theatre. The feeling of standing on stage during curtain call after performing was amazing,” she said.

For music student Gavin, it was the large concert he took part in, saying he felt very important knowing that he was responsible for parts of it as well.

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“My lasting impressions of competing at the Olympiad were playing the Korean drums and trying to get involved in as many music groups in the play, so to get the most stage time,” he said.

For the students, the Olympiad was about community, which Dulwich College has a rather large one. Head of the college Graeme Salt commented that events such as this provide students with an international network and more.

“A chance to learn within a diverse group, concentrated time with teachers passionate about their activity and plain good fun,” he said.

“Lots of very happy memories were formed.”

Ellia remarked that she realized during the event just how important community is and how privileged she is to be part of such an incredible one.

“The Olympiad is an event that was very fulfilling, being an experience not many other students will have the opportunity to attend in their lifetime,” she said.

For Youngsoo, it’s a bit simpler.

“The lasting impression is that I was part of 400 years of Dulwich history,” he said.

Founder’s Day In continuing the celebration of 400 years of Dulwich College, the Seoul campus will

host their annual Founder’s Day on May 25 at the college, under the theme “Zero Waste & 400 Years.”

There will be music and entertainment throughout the day provided by the school’s many music teams such as the Junior and Senior Choruses, Junior and Senior Orchestras, the Senior Band and showcases for various other instrumental programs.

Pentasonic will also perform and the school plans to hold “Dulwich’s Got Talent.”

Other attractions include a busking stage, art exhibition, cream tea, splash zone, science club booth, hat ribbons, book fair, used book and toy fair, and a 400 Year photo booth.

Food will be provided by Braai Republic, Vato’s Urban Tacos and France Gourmet, and there will be draught beer available.

However, the biggest change to this year’s event is the emphasis on zero waste, which is part of the theme. All vendors have been asked not to serve food in plastic or paper containers, and instead reusable trays, bowls, plates, cups and cutlery will be provided. Rather than provided bottled water, Dulwich will set up a water station with fountains.

There will also be vendors on-site promoting zero waste products.

And in line with the theme, author, blogger and part of the global zero waste movement Bea Johnson will be speaking at the event, educating guests on how they too can bring their waste output down. Johnson and her family produce only one pint of trash a year, and she has written and spoken extensively on this topic, inspiring thousands and becoming the face of a global movement.

Her non-judgemental approach has helped many a person consider ways to decrease the waste in their life and help make the world a better place.

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A wine for every season

W Kiwi Chamber returns with 11th edition of wine festival Story EMMA KALKA Photos THE KIWI CHAMBER

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ine lovers rejoice! It is once again that time of year - the time where you can try dozens of red and white wines from New Zealand in one place: The Kiwi Chamber of Commerce Wine Festival.

Adopting the theme “Flavours of New Zealand,” the festival will introduce new wines as well as some old favorites for guests to try. This year’s event will take place on May 25 at the Grand Hyatt’s waterfall garden in Seoul and on June 8 at the Ananti Cove Resort in Busan. Both versions are set to run from 4 to 8 pm.

The theme was carefully chosen to highlight the diversity of styles and varieties of New Zealand wines, according to Sunny Myung, project manager for the festival.

“Our guests will love not only the freshness of New Zealand sauvignon blanc and pinot noir, but also admire the distinctiveness of wine varieties across regions,” she said,

adding that each region has their own characteristics and offers an array of flavors for the palate.

“New Zealand wine flavors are fresh, subtle or spicy - a blend of influences that has created a unique range of flavours that match well with different food.”

The popularity of these wines has only grown in Korea. Thanks to the Korea-New Zealand free trade agreement, tariffs on wine have dropped from 15 percent to zero since 2015, allowing for strong growth. White wine imports from New Zealand were up 46.5 percent in 2018. At the same time, red wine imports grew 24.5 percent.

“The Kiwi Chamber wine festival is back, and guests will be able to discover the unique diversity of New Zealand’s wine regions, varieties, and styles,” said Dr. Tony Garrett, chairman of The Kiwi Chamber.

This year, both Seoul and Busan feature

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the most wineries from New Zealand since the festival’s start in 2009, with 35 wineries joining the fun. Of these, 25 are already established in Korea.

As for where to start on your wine journey, the Kiwi Chamber assures that there will be something for everyone on offer, though some wines of note include sauvignon blanc from Marlborough, pinot noir from Central Otago, syrah from Hawke’s Bay, and world-class sparkling wine, along with other notable wines from both the North and South Islands.

Garrett adds that New Zealand has a full spectrum of growing conditions and varieties, and that, for the layperson, it is easy to understand what the wine is rather than having a great knowledge of all the regions.

“Of course there are different regions, which can lead to differences in taste, but it is the strong dedication of the New Zealand wine producers to making quality and distinctive wines that reflects our wonderful climate and environment,” he said.

His personal favorites include whites - his old go-to is the sauvignon blanc, though he increasingly enjoys the pinot gris, saying some of his Korean friends who prefer a slightly lighter wine really enjoy those. Also, having lived in Otago, he has a preference for the Central Otago pinot noirs.

“However, I am also starting to enjoy our other varieties - nothing smoother than a good merlot in the winter, or for something with real flavor I discovered some of our good syrahs - both the merlots and syrahs

are wines which you can really savor,” he said.

He encourages guests to the festival to try everything - there really are a variety of wine from a number of regions that will appeal to everyone’s palate. While the country is most known for its whites, especially the sauvignon blanc, explore beyond that.

Both versions of the festival will include a

Myung said the addition of these new features was to showcase not only the wines of New Zealand, but also the regions they come from and the people and culture that make the wines so special.

“A traditional Maori hangi is a year-round outdoor culinary experience that’s generally prepared for large gatherings. Maori people

Of course there are different regions, which can lead to differences in taste, but it is the strong dedication of the New Zealand wine producers to making quality and distinctive wines that reflects our wonderful climate and environment Dr. Tony Garrett, chairman of New Zealand Chamber of Commerce in Korea Kiwi-inspired barbeque for guests to enjoy.

In addition, the Seoul version will feature a special treat - a hangi. This is a traditional New Zealand Maori feast that involves digging a pit in the ground, then heating up stones with a large fire. The food is then placed in baskets on top of the stones and covered with earth for several hours before lifting the hangi to be eaten.

In addition to food and drink, the Seoul festival will also have a grape-treading photo zone where guests can experience traditional winemaking. There will also be a “Hidden Cellar Door” at both versions where wine enthusiasts and industry specialists can discover captivating varieties new to the Korean market from over 10 wineries.

are aware that the earth is the giver of all life, and from the soil comes food and that same food is then cooked within the soil,” she said.

There will also be lucky draw events at both events with a number of prizes up for grabs, including hotel packages, gift sets, and the grand prize of one economy return ticket to New Zealand for each event from sponsor Singapore Airlines.

Tickets are 120,000 won for Kiwi Chamber members, 140,000 won for non-members, and 150,000 won for at-door purchases.

Group discounts are also available for 120,000 won per person for groups of eight or more.

For more information or to register, contact events@kiwichamber.com or visit the chamber website at www.kiwichamber.com.

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Beauty

IN THE

Broken

Local photographer explores the imperfections that make us beautiful Story EMMA KALKA • Photos ANUJ MADAN

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s the saying goes, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Or another - beauty is all around us. For photographer Anuj Madan, beauty is also in the brokenness and imperfections that we all have.

In the upcoming exhibition “Broken Beauty,” Madan presents work from two different projects that he has been working on for the last six months, both showing that beauty is in many things, - specifically, the imperfect, the forgotten, and the mundane.

“In my search for answers to my own imperfections, I came across a realization that everyone had a common link, we were all broken in one way or another, and the way we had put ourselves back together is what made us unique and beautiful individuals with this underlying connection,” he said.

The exhibit contains portraits and artwork - all of which have been ripped apart and put back together in purposeful ways. The models are all friends of Madan’s, he said, some professional and some talented artists.

“I chose them based on the fact that they are all creative, artistic individuals who have interesting stories, perspectives, and shared life experiences.”

The art comes from his surroundings in Seoul and is an ongoing project. He explained that he seeks out seemingly mundane, easily ignored objects and tries to draw out the beauty in their colors, layers, and textures to highlight the underlying potential.

Madan started on the first phase of the project - the portraits - about six months ago, though he met with the models starting in mid-2018 to discuss their lives and personal stories. He then said that the second phase with the “art” began accidentally in December during a trip to Vietnam.

“The collage work is a combination of the two projects and came to me as a way to share everything I’m working on artistically,” he continued.

In seeking an understanding and the elusiveness of perfection, he noticed the beauty in imperfection, he said, speaking of his inspiration for “Broken Beauty.” He added that broken is beautiful too - it has to be or nothing or no one would be.

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Madan said that as we all get older, we all break and have broken hearts and broken dreams, but we are constantly pulling ourselves back together - that’s how we all become different. It happens at the cellular level and an emotional level and makes us who we are as individuals.

“It’s in the way things break and the way they are put together that all our beauty and uniqueness comes out and that’s what this is,” he said, speaking of the exhibition. It’s how he wants to break things and put them back together, he continued.

“I control my art even though I can’t control who I am and how I became this way.

This is an extension of me,” he said. “This is me taking control and creating in spite of being created by a universe that cannot understand completely.”

The decision to display his work in an exhibition came to him as the only way to get more than 10 seconds of anyone’s conscious attention, as well as a way to create a space to begin a dialogue about the world’s obsession with perfection while simultaneously having a subconscious attraction to imperfection. And to show it in an exaggerated form visually.

He said that he hopes visitors will begin to develop a sense of how to see the beauty in more things and everyday life through the exhibit.

“And learn to positively notice that the cracks and rips - those broken elements - are part of the journey, and not something to be avoided, but rather appreciated,” he said. He encouraged people to bring a friend and start a conversation with them.

“Broken Beauty” will be on display at 10000 Lab in Haebangcheon from April 25 to May 14. The exhibition is free and there will be a reception on April 25 from 7-9 pm.

The artspace is located in the basement of the building.

EXHIBIT:

BROKEN BEAUTY DATE:

April 25-May 14 LOCATION:

10000 Lab (basement), Haebangcheon TICKETS:

FREE

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An American and Red Bean Bread He who laughs last just didn’t get the new perspectives on Korea Story BECKY WHITE

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he world of comedy is found in every circle, every culture, and any unexpected place; humor, after all, is making light of the ridiculous and serious alike. No one and nothing is spared from comedy’s unique ability to lampoon. The shared experience of laughter, whether the reason for it is witty or crude slapstick behavior, is found everywhere in the world. We are all amused, by some thing or another, and breaking social awkwardness with a well-timed joke can be appreciated by anyone.

When I heard that Jim Gaffigan, (who describes himself on his instagram as “Male Model” but then spends at least ninety-nine percent of his stand up drily noting his love of food and ensuing weight gain) was coming to Seoul, I was interested. I was curious to see how an American stand-up comedian hailing from Indiana would be welcomed in Korea. Did he have a Korean audience at all? Would his humor be understood, even if there was translation? Could a Korean audience like him and his style on stage?

Jim Gaffigan isn’t exactly what Koreans would call traditionally handsome, and though he has his own initial charms, a lot of what makes Jim Gaffigan likable is his humor and use of words.

His show took place in the Samsung Theater at Ehwa Women’s University. I remember remarking to my friend how surprised I was at the low number of people waiting at the entrance; this guy had been on late night talk shows, sitcoms, and filled out whole theaters. Why weren’t people simply cramming into the hall to see him?

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The shared experience of laughter, whatever the cause, is found everywhere in the world and crosses cultures.

The truth remains; Jim Gaffigan is a novelty in Korea and as the show is English only, no doubt that limits the audience size here. However, the turn out was good and the audience was hearty; the moment he came onto the stage, he was hailed with cheers and applause. I found myself cheering as well, pleasantly surprised to see that the Jim Gaffigan I had watched on Netflix was the same in real life; a bit portly, a bit balding, a bit pale, and a bit surly.

I was charmed.

I settled into the cushioned theater seat for the hour, anticipating good laughs. I was instead surprised with a good bit of his set based around his observations of Korean culture and the things he found odd since arriving in the land of Morning Calm. Having

grown up with a Koeran mother and spend a good number of years in Seoul, I was slightly perplexed by him bringing up things that seemed perfectly normal; but Jim Gaffigan’s observational humor of the mundane crosses cultural borders it seems and soon I, too, found red bean bread and napkins replaced with toilet paper as funny as he did.

It was an evening of American humor and it was interesting to experience it, laughing along with a crowd of Koreans and foreigners alike, seeing our country in a new way like Jim Gaffigan was viewing it. I would be very interested to see how he is received elsewhere in Asia; perhaps humor really can make its way anywhere. Hats off to you, Mr. Gaffigan. Thanks for the fresh perspectives on Korea and the laughs.

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K-FASHION

FRESH TALENTS The future of South Korean fashion is emerging with Generation Next designers Story LORENA JIMÉNEZ AND DIANNE PINEDA-KIM Photos SEOUL FASHION WEEK ORGANIZATION AND MANON THORE

“H

ow nice it would be if we could only get through the lookingglass house! I’m sure it’s got, oh! Such beautiful things in it!” This is one of the memorable lines spoken by the famous character Alice in Lewis Carroll’s novel, Through the LookingGlass. This same sentiment and intense curiosity can be felt outside the curved entrapments of the modern Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP), the usual site of Seoul Fashion Week, where a makeshift, rectangular looking glass room is located within walking distance from the main shows. From both in and

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outside the “glasshouse,” audiences can view the runways of “Generation Next,” a government-supported fashion showcase that aims to provide a stage for new designers free of charge, as opposed to the on-schedule shows by more established and well-heeled brands that are able to pay premium venue fees.

This “new talent” segment of Seoul Fashion Week features more than 20 Korean designers that have only one to five years of experience. Last year, Vogue extolled the power and fresh perspective of these emerging talents, comparing them to the oftentimes trend-obsessed

and “stagnant” designers with more clout, writing, “It is a smart move on Seoul Fashion Week’s part to accommodate them. If the city is to become a true incubator, its Fashion Week must find, cultivate, and support new talent, especially as the first wave of rising Koreans heads overseas.”

Just by entering the Generation Next venue, you could already feel the excitement and freshness in the atmosphere, something quickly overtaken by the admiration of the pieces presented on the runway. The venue was home to competing emotions; on the one hand due

“The collections of Generation Next designers prove that innovation and taste in style know no age, background, length of experience, or state of fame. Of course, the young designers still have a lot of things to learn from their predecessors... but their presence is an indication that fashion always finds new faces and new ways to play.”

to the space you realized that you were not in the presence of the main star designers leading the Korean Fashion Wave, but on the other, the strong designs and collections left more than one questioning whether the collections were really from new designers and not more experienced and renowned fashion houses.

Fashion was definitely not stagnant this season. The Generation Next designers brought in a lot of colors, not only in terms of their chosen fabrics, but also in the way each and every one of them interpreted fashion with their collections.

Their pieces radiated strength, elegance,

and freshness, giving the attendees a peek into new fashion currents, new stories, and new sources of inspiration.

This was a pleasant surprise that had more than one professional in the field like us comment on the strength and positive feelings emitted from the Generation Next designers.

At the recent 2019 Fall/Winter fashion spectacle, one thing was certain— the changing of seasons also signals the beginning of a new era in Korean fashion.

The collections of the Generation Next designers proved that innovation and taste in style know no age, background,

length of experience, or state of fame.

Of course, the young designers still have a lot of things to learn from their predecessors who have mastered the art of impeccable craftsmanship and business savviness that helped propel their brands to global success—but their presence is an indication that fashion always finds new faces and new ways to play.

Generation Next is coming on strong, full of energy and the desire to make an impact. And among all their amazing stories, collections, and sources of inspiration, these were some of our most evident designer choices. ▶

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UXION

K-FASHION

UXION The name of the brand Uxion is derived from the name of its designer, Yoo Ji-on.

And it’s only very apt since the collection embodied her own personal style, as it was apparent when she walked out of the runway to greet the audience at the finale. One could see the woman she was trying to depict: strong, empowered, and emancipated from stereotypes, yet still in touch with her feminine, nurturing side. The 2019 F/W is a continuation of her previous S/S collection, which was entitled, “The story of a woman exploring the Vanilla City.” With a combination of salmon pinks, blacks, brown plaid suits, striking red coordinates, and pinstriped pants, the collections embodied a woman who is modern and thrives in the urban world. It’s easy to say that almost every type of woman will be able to find themselves in several of Uxion’s designs: the classic, the adventurous, professional, simple, or the sexy woman who is confident with every stride. -Dianne

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EXYAI.W

EXYAI.W

Exyai W means “a man who makes women’s clothing” and this season designer Kim Hak Sun presented a new angle for his usual minimal yet feminine concept with a sober and almost dark aesthetic.

A collection in which male and female lines intertwined more times than not, but in which all pieces and styles still emanated the beauty and strength of femininity. Fitted patterns that hugged the natural shape of the female body in outfits that also accentuated the dark side of womanhood, through pieces clearly meant to bring us back to the past. I would not say that the collection was minimal per se, but what I definitely could feel was the intention of the designer to captivate the essence and “scent of a woman,” the multiple shades of femininity, not only in the cuteness and brightness that this concept is usually associated with in a country like Korea, but in a much rawer, darker and more mature way than the common representation. A mix between a dark femme fatale from the Victorian era and the career woman of today, in which Exyai W. brought us the image of fierce ladies wearing at times the outfits of their male counterparts, masculine lines yet always tamed with a dose of femininity.

Feminine and masculine sparks, but always formal in a collection that, as with women themselves, was subversive, strong, and almost dangerous — yet beautiful.

-Lorena

THE EDITORS

LORENA JIMÉNEZ

DIANNE PINEDA-KIM

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K-FASHION

MOON J

MOON J Art inspires art, and this is true for designer Moon Jin Hee of Moon J, whose creative juices got tickled by the art film Microhabitat, which won the CGV Arthouse Award at the 22nd Busan Film Festival. The movie tells the misery and eccentricities of Miso, a thirty-year-old woman whose name in Korean means both “smile” and “micro.” After the price of her rent increases and she can no longer afford to stay in her place, she becomes homeless, flitting from one friend’s house to another. She takes on odd housekeeping jobs in order to enjoy “luxuries” in life she simply cannot let go of: cigarettes, whiskey, and her boyfriend.

The collection featured a harmonious mix of modern structured suits and feminine looks that are a far cry from Miso’s disheveled, homeless state. But rather than the literal inspiration, perhaps Moon J chose to highlight the expensive, ideal world that only a privileged few can afford and a lot could only dream of. The overall impression that the collection gave was the positive image of a woman who is welltraveled, dressed, and ready to conquer the world. -Dianne

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IKE Unlike the loud, colorful and attentiongrabbing collections of other designers, IKE chose to take the quiet, subtle route with its soft palettes, feminine silhouettes, and understated elegance. With designer Park Ik Je at the helm, IKE is the calmer second label to Teethoffice, a collection known for its de-constructive, streetwear styles. But while Teethoffice revelled in experimentation with cuts and colors, IKE was a lesson in restraint and simplicity with its theme “Nichts,” a German word that roughly translates to “nothingness.”

According to the designer, the collection depicts the “feeling of emptiness caused by our attachment to outward beauty.”

True enough, some of the dominating colors of the clothes were nude, neutrals, and pale pastels, which almost allude to the sensation of numbness and the image of disappearance or fading. As the models progressed from barely-there colors and loose cuts to more pronounced details like the multi-cut brown leather dress and slightly elaborate trench coats, the designer’s message became clearer. Some of the pieces seemed to reference undergarments, perhaps as a resounding statement that emphasizes one sentiment: beauty is only skin deep.

-Dianne

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ONGPLAYINGRECOR

K-FASHION

LONGPLAYINGRECORD

Longplayingrecord, under designer Kwon Oh Seung, follows the philosophy of “simple but not simple.” Participating for the first time in Seoul Fashion Week with this Fall Winter 2019 collection, what used to be a brand focused on “classic elegance and contemporary menswear” surprised us this season with female-worn designs. The collection was the perfect mix of formal with a spark of athleisure, in which classic items had a twist with details that incorporated a dark street vibe. The powerful outerwear pieces definitely stood out through their androgynous patterns; in a beautiful menswear collection that could easily have doubled up as womenswear with an elegance in design that seemed to adapt perfectly to the person wearing it. Each item had its own personality in a collection in which both past and future seemed to be represented. Items that emanated a strong vintage military vibe had been clearly reinterpreted by the designer’s style in a way that, through the different lines and materials, also took you a couple of years into the unknown. Sober color palettes and prints created a solid collection in which out of the ordinary classical touches kept sprucing the designs. -Lorena

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NAVY STUDIO

NAVY STUDIO

A brand that I could quickly describe as “the clothes the ideal boyfriend would wear�, all the way stylish but restrained, Navy Studio presented a collection marked by sophisticated yet simple designs.

These are the kind of pieces that I like to call scene-stealers, minimalist yet making a statement that, without going overboard, manages to steal all the looks. These are designs that held a sense of reliability, elegance, strength and delicacy at the same time. This is not an easy combination to achieve in menswear, a field in which achieving this perfect point of bliss in between manly and delicate is not always so simple. The collection was mainly based on navy, blue, and the occasional white, mostly present as the statement point of design.

White linings, double-sided rolled cuffs, layering, and the occasional classic print together with the smart use of buttons completed the looks without the need of any extra accessorization. The pattern work of the designs filled with delicate lines created an effortless and smart dandy look that gave the pieces their timeless aesthetic. Navy studio brought us delicate menswear done right, with designer Moon Chang Sung´s signature all over it. His personal style and imprint was represented in each one of the pieces, and to which he was still carefully putting his final touches on until the last second before hitting the runway. -Lorena

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MUSIC

FLYING PAST HER COLORS Ahn Ji-ho discusses her passion of blending musical genres through genuine creativity and vocal prowess of Navi Story KYUNG LEE • Photos BECKY WHITE

E

ver since a 16-year-old Ahn Ji-ho went on stage to demonstrate her flair for singing at school events, she always enjoyed performing what hit songs she had compiled in her mental jukebox, matched with expressing body movements freely on her own terms without worrying how well she did.

Very little did the now 33-year-old realize she would transcend the traditional boundaries of Korean ballads and pop by injecting in them variations of other musical categories and their respective charms to make what defines her under the stage name Navi.

Committed to the belief she’s upheld as a freestyle prodigy to professional composer

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and vocalist more than 10 years in the making, “I don’t want to limit myself to one or a few genres. Just whichever concept works for me fits how I want to interpret it.”

Finding inspiration from Korean singers on live TV and the R&B and soul track list of a greatest hits collection her mother bought for her in elementary school, Ahn says she tried to emulate every artist, their lyrics and rhythms with movements she improvised to her liking – a distant precursor to the character she imposes in her songs today.

And after much encouragement from one of her high school teachers that she should cultivate her talent, Ahn would transfer to Ahyeon Polytechnic School to professionalize

her surroundings, a clear break from the leisure of providing joy to herself and her classmates.

However, it wasn’t just the intensity of exercising in various tones or expanding on her technical vocabulary of music composition in Ahyeon that drove Ahn to awaken what a young Navi could prove prior to her 2008 debut. Rather, it was under the tutelage of George Han Kim, a KoreanAmerican vocalist who is also a member of the South Korean R&B and hip-pop group Solid, with whom she believes helped elevate her voice with an enlightened mind, body and soul.

“He [Johan] would play something and allowed me to be me through my body and

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emotions, which I enjoyed taking in viscerally,” she says. “Teaching me to investigate what I can feel when listening to a certain song, I considered his techniques both novel and suitable for me.”

Confident to enter the music world – with newly equipped enhanced senses and maturing creativity – Ahn wanted to experiment with genres like R&B, hip-pop, soul and even variations of jazz as coexisting with Korean ballads and pop into a single composition against the high tide of the mainstream cravings.

And though she was excited to learn she would complement her debut with the song, “I Love You,” Ahn could not contribute lyrics of her own, nor personalize the song’s other compelling elements much less than being allowed to exude her emotions only through her voice.

“I always thought it was difficult to adapt R&B, which you’ll hear aspects of in the song, but studios found it hard to accept it as a separate concept where they preferred more ballads and dance,” she says. “After ‘I Love You,’ my style evolved into negotiating between what the mainstream and I both wanted.”

Ahn says she eventually accepted what both genres required in her to fulfill following her first single “I Luv U,” but never let go of incorporating external influences into her upcoming releases to make the music dynamic her way.

Having featured Korean rap artists like Double K, Crown J and the hip-pop duo Geeks, including male vocalists K. Will and Shin Yong-jae in her previous songs, Ahn praised her guest appearances for versing their lyrics and styles in sync with her own balladic interpretations as snugly as a foot worn into a shoe.

Regarding an upcoming recording she already penned for the spring season, Ahn certainly sees no shortage of artists she’d like to collaborate with.

“There’s a rap passage that goes into the piece and I think Simon Dominic would be perfect for the role,” she says. “For future projects I want to organize, I’d take an opportunity to work with Lee Moon-sae if I was ever given one. Even though he’s been

“Despite wandering in all directions for so long, my fans still loved what I was making and that’s what gave me the selfencouragement to pick myself up and tell them I was fine.”

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making music for a long time, he’s still not afraid of trying new things and breaking trends, and that’s what I greatly respect about him.”

Utilizing creative methods of her own – along with soaking in the sensual explorations taught by [Johan] Kim – Ahn keeps a mental record of her strolls in the park, chit chat with friends and passages from a book, which she lyricizes into her songs to show fans some of her most intimate episodes like pages in a diary.

“I wrote and recorded the composition ‘Fine’ to let my audiences know that in my more than 10 years of making music, that even though I’ve enjoyed performing in the limelight, I would also feel pain and stress

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from baseless criticisms that recently made me contemplate quitting,” she says. “Despite wandering in all directions for so long, my fans still loved what I was making and that’s what gave me the self-encouragement to pick myself up and tell them I was fine.”

Climbing back from the fray of nearly losing what she loved, Ahn says she is actively posting her vlog series on YouTube and studying English to converse with friends as part of a fresh outlook on life and counterbalance to the oftentimes vicious emotional cycles caused by music.

And having accomplished a discography of OSTs, single and full-length albums, Ahn released her 60th album “10” in December 2018 to dedicate her decade-long endeavor

to her true-blue fans since debuting with “I Love You.” Through “10” and its 11 tracks, Ahn wants to show she’s not fighting to climb the charts or compete with other artists, but she’s the same Navi unhindered to express how she feels about herself.

“I only injected it with songs I really enjoyed in making and fans noticed the new direction I was going,” she says. Writing songs can usually be tormenting but I felt that the process this time around was fluid.”

Her music is available on Melon, Genie, Bugs and more.

Follow Navi on instagram @navi_jiho Find her vlogs on youtube at Official Navi

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I don’t want to limit myself to one or a few genres.

Just whichever concept works for me fits how I want to interpret it.�

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MUSIC

PUTTING A FRESH PERSPECTIVE ON EDM The first live EDM band in Korea

Story BECKY WHITE Photos AHN DONG HO

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MUSIC

S

eoul is a music mecca. The genres of music produced in Korea range from the ever-popular, bubble gum K-Pop to R&B, but perhaps the genre that has started to establish itself more firmly in Korea is electronic dance music (EDM). Seoul hosts some major EDM summer festivals as well as boasts popular EDM clubs all over the city. DJs make a name for themselves by playing and producing music at various venues, but perhaps the latest and freshest idea to reveal itself among this music scene is live EDM. Luna Pirates, the first live EDM band in Korea, has been taking EDM lovers on a new ride, showing them what it’s like to mix live music with EDM. The band plays with incredible energy on stage. Their DJ, Mad Queen, commands the turntables and the venue with her assertive voice, while drummer Captain Bug keeps a heavy beat on the electronic drums, smiling a wide grin not dissimilar to the Cheshire Cat’s, and their youngest member, Dragon tears on the guitar. Seeing them live is a testament to their passion for music and ability to share that with their audience.

Come to a Luna Pirate’s concert prepared

to jump and cheer; communicating with the band through music and dance is a special characteristic of their live performances and makes them so loved by their new fans.

Meeting the members of Luna Pirates in a setting much calmer than a live EDM concert reveals much about their individual personalities and what makes the band work. Three members make up the core of the band, but their formula for making their music is unique and requires many more than just three people. They are in turns warm, introspective, funny and poetic when talking about their music, and spent half of the interview in laughter; their camaraderie is obvious. It’s apparent that their values and characters create their sound far more than just rhythms and chords.

Would you mind introducing yourselves?

Captain Bug: Hello. I’m drummer Captain Bug. MQ: DJ Mad Queen.

Ogon: Hello guys, my name is Ogon from Luna Pirates.

What’s the meaning of your name and what’s your sound?

Captain Bug: So, our name is Luna Pirates.

We are like a gang of pirates, working in a group.

And as you know, when you think ‘pirates’, you think, pirates steal things. Then we are also ‘Luna’, like the moon. The name came from the idea that as the moon steals your heart, so we will steal your heart as well [with our music.]

We wanted to put that into sound.

MQ: When we play live our genre is a little different than from our albums. When we do live, we play electronic house, dubstep or hard style. We usually also play famous edm songs. When we release our albums, it’s not too different but just something easier to listen to. We write pop electronic, electronic house or progressive house.

You’ve all done music for a long time.

Have you always done EDM or did you do a different genre before coming to EDM? Captain Bug: When I was younger I did rock. Even then, I liked EDM and dance music, especially the rhythm of those styles.

Nowadays, EDM is a trendy genre. I’ve fallen into the wide ocean of EDM.

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MQ: I was originally an EDM dj. I always have done house and dance djing. I liked this genre so I naturally became a part of this kind of band. To me, it was like breathing, like eating.

Ogon: At first, I am a singer and songwriter named Ogon. On Luna Pirates, I’m a supporting member.

futuristic concept. Cyber punk. We ask the question, “What are humans? What are we doing on this planet? Where are we going?” That’s how we get inspiration.

MQ: It comes out of questions. What will our future be like? What’s our real life like? What if we become AI? We have a curiosity about the future.

When people hear Luna Pirates’ music, how do you hope they feel?

Captain Bug: There’s so much music in the world. Deep house, depressing songs, happy songs, all of it. But for me personally, for those who listen to music, it’s for people to personally hear the songs and understand the stories. I hope that they can feel the stories. Rather than making songs that are dark, we want to give listeners hope and meaning. We want to give them strength through our lyrics.

What’s the best part about doing music? And what’s the hardest part?

Ogon: For me, the best thing about doing music is… well, it’s like work that I like doing. It’s work I can focus on. So the difficult thing about music can also be a good thing. It’s really just the small things but I feel them in a big way. For example, if someone likes my music, I really appreciate it, just so much. But then that can become this pressure to make something even better. The ups and downs can be very extreme. Maintaining a musician’s life can be difficult.

MQ: The good thing about doing music….

I listen to music a lot. I love listening to music. It makes me think and I study a lot. It’s great that I can learn while doing what I love. The difficult thing is that it can also be lonely, especially when doing work at night. It’s not so hard, but still that’s just how it can be sometimes. I’m thankful that while I’m alive I can happily do my work. There are difficulties in everything.

Captain Bug: Doing music is good, and listening to music is good, too. When making music, you imagine many things.

It’s fun. Also, for Luna pirates, we have our main members here, but we also have lots of other members. Through Luna Pirates, we keep on meeting new friends and it’s fun to do this music together, to perform live. I suppose the difficult thing for me is the fact that I’ve changed genres. I knew only rock and now I’m still so new to this genre.

I want to study and I want to be better faster, but it takes time. I see people like Martin Garrix or David Guetta and I can see they’re so good. There are so many people who are good. I always wonder, how and if we could ever be good like them and will we ever meet.

When did you debut?

MQ: We’ve all done music for a long time, but as the band Luna Pirates we debuted last year in June. It’s not even been one year.

How did you get to know each other?

Captain Bug: Ogon and I were on a working basis. We’d practice together and saw each other often.

MQ: I was introduced via a mutual friend.

So naturally, seeing each other a lot we became closer. We’d listen to music and hang out together and over time, just realized how well we got on together. So the suggestion that we do music together just came naturally.

Captain Bug: Doing music by yourself is lonely. So we thought “let’s make a band.”

That’s how it started.

Ogon: I’m just in a business relationship. (laughs) I’m just joking.

Where do you get your inspiration for music?

Captain Bug: It’s a bit complicated… let’s state it simply. Luna pirates is a digital performance. Our music is slightly like the idea of AI performing rather than humans.

It’s futuristic music but living in this world.

The EDM genre is digital, so we add a

You are active in Korea yet all your songs are in English. Why is that?

Captain Bug: These days, Korean people are good at English, too. Many people listen to English pop songs. So while we make our music in English, we find we are able to communicate with our Korean audience well enough. We also want to communicate with our global friends.

What would you say to those who want to do music?

Ogon: Don’t do it. Don’t even dream about it. Don’t even start. Dreams don’t come true. (laughs) MQ- (laughs) Well you know, I might have to agree. I have a niece and if she wanted to do music as a hobby, I would be very supportive. For me, I started music without thinking, it came naturally. It’s very difficult work but very happy, too. It’s all the good and hard things together. It’s definitely not easy. As a hobby, it’s okay. But for a job, it’s definitely not for those who just want to groove and enjoy the music. You must study hard.

Captain bug - I’m the opposite. For those who want to do music, the start is already half of the journey. All things in life are like that. In the past, it was really hard to become an artist. Now, becoming an artist is easy.

Anyone can be one because of youtube. So if you have interest, if you have rhythm and keep making and putting out music, you can become an artist. Just don’t regret it.

Ogon. Don’t do it. That way you won’t ever regret it.

Do you find any special meaning in music? What kind of meaning does it have for you?

Ogon: Rather, I’m able to continue doing music because i don’t put any huge meaning into it. When I see other people who are going to and fro the office, I think about my work in the same way. Instead of putting pressure on myself to produce, I just live this way naturally. Just like naturally I am a son, or someone’s friend, my music is just a natural part of my life.

So that’s why I can do it. If I put tons of meaning into my work, I don’t think I could have continued.

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Do you have a life song?

Captain Bug: Amazing grace. I’m a Christian. Though I listen to so much mainstream music, it never touches me enough to make me cry. But ever since I was young, I have played in church, and even since then, I would cry. It’s some kind of feeling. There aren’t many songs that move me but somehow, when I heard that song, tears some to my eyes.

MQ - I cry. (laughs) Every person is different.

For me, my life song is Zedd’s “Clarity.” It’s a really famous song. I heard it in the club once, and there was an instant connection.

When I heard it, that’s when I knew, “I’m going to be a dj. I’m going to make a song like that.” That’s when my life changed.

Ogon - My life song is my mom’s lullaby.

Hahaha. Oh, that’s not funny… Okay, I’m kidding, I’ll be cooler about this. For me, when I hear the song “Lucky Man” by Verve, I feel filled with courage. Or also “Alive” by Pearl Jam. When I listen to these songs, I’m inspired about my work. The songs are a little cynical, metropolitan and a bit old. But to me, they carry a lot of meaning.

You started music a while ago and still are doing music today. During all this time, what has impacted you the most?

Captain Bug - I’ve learned a lot while making and recording songs. People all have things they want to do, and then things they can do well. There’s a difference between the two. When doing what you like, you can easily become greedy about it. There are those kinds of music where a person’s selfishness is apparent. What I’ve learned is the process of throwing away that greed and selfishness. It’s not about putting yourself in the center and pushing to win. There is a flow, a sort of step to everything It takes patience, preparation, waiting, like observing life. You shouldn’t rush. You can hear it in the music if there is a lot of self-centeredness. If you add too much, it becomes messy. You need a clean sound. Love, breakups, life’s difficulties, it’s all heard in the music if you add it; you have to put in exactly what you want to say and nothing more.

MQ - For me it’s the same. When I was younger, in my 20s, I couldn’t keep a

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Rather than making songs that are dark, we want to give listeners hope and meaning. We want to give them strength through our lyrics.

straight head about music. I wouldn’t have been able to make music or make an album.

There was too much I wanted. I couldn’t put what I wanted into sound, so I’d make songs and then just throw them away. I couldn’t show everything at once. But now, by slowly waiting, it’s not about showing off. It’s about listening to other people and putting their words in my music. Through doing music, I am finding myself.

Ogon - You can’t do music alone, even if you wanted to. I’ve learned how to make quick judgements rather than worry about things.

In my life, I’ve rarely had anything I really had to worry about it.

What would be something Luna Pirates accomplishes that you would consider achieving success?

Captain Bug - Everyone might have a different opinion, but for me, if we as our pirate group were working together happily, I think that would be enough. There are many people who are a part of Luna Pirates. At first, we began with just a few people, but now it’s becoming bigger, and so not just us but also our juniors, our partners, our trainees, and we keep meeting more people. Working together with those who do music, moving together with strength and keeping up the good work...

I have to wonder, isn’t that success?

MQ - When I was young, nobody showed me how to make music. For me, I want our members to be happy. I hope people listen to our music and are happy. As a DJ, it’s hard to work alone in Korea, finding good music can be hard. So I want to help our other members. For those who want to learn and can’t someone to teach them how to dance, or how to DJ, or how to sing, well, I want to

be open to talk with them, to learn together, to give them what I know. There are people who say I don’t know what they want to do in life. Though I can’t physically give you something, I can be your friend. We can talk and listen and share ideas.

Ogon - To be successful, there are three things that will meet the standard.

First, buying my own house. Second, owning a car. Third, Begin able to travel internationally once a year. I’m serious!

Okay, okay, if there is anything else, it would be to be invited to perform by the president at the Blue House. And also to North Korea.

That would be a great addition to being successful. (Laughs) Captain Bug: But you know, all artists start out thinking that success is just having my own concert, my first album, hearing my songs on TV. But we’ve already achieved all that.

Ogon: Right! So DON’T DO IT. Because that’s just too easy! So don’t even try!

Captain bug - Luna Pirates is always looking for more pirates to join us. For those who we have synergy with. We want to work happily with others.

MQ: Everybody, read Groove magazine and send the editors lots of love! We have Luna Pirates on youtube and all streaming services, so check us out.

Ogon: Don’t do music. The only reason to do music is if you think you’d rather die than live a life without music. Oh, and listen to luna pirates!

Luna Pirates can be found on Genie, Melon, Bugs, Spotify, Youtube, Soundcloud, Apple Music and more.

Instagram: Lunapirates_band

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FOOD & DRINK

Healthy and delicious Food that nourishes your body and your heart Story LORENA JIMÉNEZ Photos JACKSON TRITT

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inding vegetarian or even healthy choices in Korea is not always an easy task even in Seoul, which must be one of the cities with the highest ratios of restaurant to resident.

In the last few years, there has been an increasing global trend of body consciousness in terms of health. Many of us believe that our bodies are a temple that we should treat with care and respect since it is the only one that we are given, but the food industry doesn’t always agree nor does it make this process easy.

More and more, “healthy choices” are becoming not so healthy. Genetically modified, filled with toxins, and in constant contact with numerous pollutants...So, when even vegetables could not be a healthy choice anymore, how can you make sure to have a nourishing meal when you are out? ▶

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The answer is eco- and health-conscious restaurants, a trend that has widely spread among cities like Berlin and one that Seoul is finally catching up with.

Yeonnam-dong is defying Itaewon Up until now, most healthy food choices have been concentrated in the Itaewon area. Well-known and adored restaurants like Plant and other healthy food spots have been visited religiously by grateful vegans, vegetarians, and health conscious inhabitants of Seoul that could not find food catering to their needs anywhere else.

But just one spot is not enough, Seoul is an enormous metropolis that houses over 20 million people (counting the suburban areas), so thankfully more and more passionate business owners are jumping onto the train of healthy food to present us not only delicious food choices but also nourishing and healthy options as well.

Taste does not have to be independent of health and that is something that the owner and team of new restaurant Grain believe wholeheartedly. A message that they are trying to spread through their specials and food options.

Grain Seoul Grain is a relatively new spot, opening a bit less than a year ago in a beautiful

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corner of Yeonnam-dong. It is a vegetarian and vegan-friendly spot ready to shower you with extremely Instagrammable food.

From the decor to their dishes, everything at this restaurant is very flash deserving, so don’t forget to charge your phone because I am sure you will snap many pictures during your visit.

With an aesthetic that made me instantly go back to my two years living in Berlin, the chef and owner of Grain Jae Yun Choi, got the idea and inspiration to open this new place while traveling. Places like Hawaii or Europe seemed to have many healthy food

options that were also tasty, but this was still an unheard of concept in most parts of Korea.

That is why the chef of 8 years decided to open his own spot to recreate the nukkim (느낌, feeling) of health and wellness he got while traveling.

Where does Grain come from?

Most Korean run places that focus on “healthy” food choices do it through ricebased dishes, but when I asked if any of the dishes at Grain contained rice, I was pleasantly surprised by their response:

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“We do not wish to have rice - rice is easy to find everywhere else in Korea. Grains and oats can be just as delicious, healthy, and even more nutritious but are not so well known nor so easily available here.

That is why we wish to create more dishes that are grain-based like grain salad bowls or serve them cooked alongside vegetables, or even include different flour choices on our specials. That way, people can make healthy eating choices and discover that healthy foods can be delicious too.”

Grain is a spot that offers easily customizable food choices, something that I am sure many people living and traveling here will appreciate since it is a luxury not so easily available in Korea.

At Grain, they have a relatively small selection of dishes and just a few specials.

I say relatively because the favorite dish among the team, the brunch bowls, can be your DIY project for the day. Not because you have to cook it yourself, of course, but because you can choose four to six ingredients to your taste.

But this is not the only customizable option on their menu; they have different alternatives also for flour or even milk to satisfy different types of taste and lifestyle choices. Thus, it is a spot that offers easily customizable food, something which I am sure many people living and traveling here will appreciate because it is a luxury not so easily available in Korea, where many times something can only be eaten as it is, even when only a small modification is requested.

Our experience We asked the small family-like team at Grain to help us choose from their favorite dishes. Our final selection was souffle pancakes, a wholemeal favorite among many visitors, a green juice, a cafe latte, a rich and consistent avocado toast, a

mushroom, egg, salmon, and avocado brunch bowl that was served with bread and yogurt, and my personal favorite of the menu, a huge surprise since I hardly ever eat meat and I am not a big fan of burgers, their hanu beef burger.

As you can see, not all their choices are vegan or vegetarian but they still aspire to make each and every dish as healthy as possible through fresh and high quality ingredients and great cooking techniques. For example, their hanu beef burger is prepared with 100% hanu beef and only round steaks, which is one of the leanest cuts.

Grain 그레인브런치 Mapo-gu Donggyo-ro 46-gil 23 (서울 마포구 동교로46길 23) |

Lean meat is one of the healthiest meats and, even though the meat Grain uses is already one of the leanest options, they still remove all the extra fat to make it an even better choice in terms of health and flavor, serving it mediumrare (if not requested otherwise) to let the true juicy taste of the beef surface in the dish.

A message from the team We are right at the beginning of our journey; everything might not be perfect all the time because we are just starting, but we hope to grow along with the restaurant and customers to become better and give you an even better experience every day.

@grain_seoul

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ART THAT MOVES YOU Art can move you; it doesn’t matter if it is in the form of paintings, fashion, food or, in this case, coffee.

Edible masterpieces in the form of coffee Story LORENA JIMÉNEZ Photos MANON THORE

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rt shares emotion, happiness, and mindfulness... Art makes you appreciate beauty, the kind of beauty that takes your breath away for a second to give it back to you in the form of inspiration and sometimes the realization that the beauty in life mostly rests on the small things.

Small things like the smile from a stranger on a bad day, a beautiful flower coming out of the otherwise cold concrete, a good cup of coffee to sweeten your day… But, what if the coffee were to be so beautiful that it made you question if you should even drink it?

If this sounds to you like a beautiful utopía, let me tell you that this is not something out of your imagination, but the daily reality at C.through cafe. Where coffee and art fuse into one to bring you delicate creations that will melt your heart and add beauty your Instagram feed with the elegance and softness that only things made with a lot of attention and care can. ▶

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The space Itaewon might not be the first choice that comes to mind when thinking about beautiful cafes, but C.through, standing strong and unique right out of Noksapyeong, will prove you wrong. It’s a short climb from the station, but totally worth the experience.

Small but charming, this cafe is a mix of concrete and cream colors with pink touches that add brightness to the space.

Its decor and furniture stay simple yet stylish because the biggest attraction of their space comes from their beautiful creations.

C.through is not your usual cafe, nor is it a space to go and study for the day.

C.through is a spot to visit when you want to indulge in some self-love and treat yourself to a beautiful experience that l am sure you will hold dearly.

The art Many baristas among the world can make your day a bit brighter with a cute heart or a simple design on your chosen latte. This is a small gesture that we can all appreciate, especially on those days when we might not be feeling our best. But the baristas at C.through go much further.

After living in 6 different countries and have traveled a lot around the world, l had never come across a cup of coffee that had made my heart skip a beat. That was until 2 years ago when scrolling through my Instagram feed on a rainy spring day while sipping on my not-so-mesmerizing Spring Cherry Blossom Special Latte of one of the world’s most famous coffee distributors, l came across barista Lee Kang Bin´s post.

The starry night of Van Gogh was painted on the surface of a cup of coffee.

I held my breath for a second; “It must be photoshopped” was my second thought, but at the same time, it seemed quite real.

“How is it even possible?” and with the hopes of satisfying my curiosity, no questions asked, I dived into the profile searching for answers to my questions.

I was speechless because the beauty did not stop there, from straight-up art that belongs in museums but imprinted instead onto cups of coffee to cute designs, birds, and flowers. That is when l decided l would write a piece on this spot one day and give my insight on this beautiful spot.

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The Process Watching the baristas prepare the specials with such care and attention to detail was mesmerizing, relaxing, and full of expectation. Having a look at something being created, stroke by stroke where seconds before there was just thin air.

It felt like the calm of watching someone paint or sketch at a park or a museum, just with the change that the canvas was soon to be yours, in the form of a marvelous art-like cup of coffee.

With patience and firm hands, holding one hand with the other for support, one barista created a beautiful cherry blossom, a cute doll, an adorable bear, a coffee volcano, while the other barista carefully prepared the strawberry tiramisu that we were about to taste.

Watching the process was not only inspiring and mesmerizing but it brought a new level of appreciation to the beverage and food that we were about to consume.

Out of curiosity, while watching this

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process, I asked the barista if he was an artist, to which he replied that he was just a barista. “Ahhh…,” I replied, thinking to myself that, as happens many times in life, without even knowing it yourself, you can be more than one thing at once.

The Specials C.through does not have an extensive menu, but it does not need to because their signature dishes already make the visit worth it.

We tasted an art coffee, a volcano coffee and strawberry tiramisu. The strawberry tiramisu did not follow the traditional Italian recipe but was soft and delicate.

A chocolate base, covered with sponge biscuits and a layer of cream, strawberries, and powdered sugar.

The volcano coffee, with a good layer

of cream, was strong and sweet, filled with a taste and aroma that reminded me of amaretto, an Italian almond liqueur.

The star of the visit, the art coffee with a beautiful cherry blossom made out of strawberry petals, was by far my favorite.

Not only because it was so beautiful that l almost felt bad for drinking it, but because it was also equally delicious. Thick cream, strong coffee, perfect sweetness, all mixed beautifully in each sip. With the strawberry petals adding a slightly sweet and sour crunch on your lucky sips.

Yes, C.through has a cute charming space and coffee art that is beautifully delicious.

Note that the coffee is always served cold to preserve the flavor, consistency, and color of your order. If all this seems tempting to you, go and enjoy a well-deserved treat for yourself.

Delicate creations that will melt your heart while adding elegance and beauty to your Instagram feed

C.Through 씨스루 Yongsan-gu, Noksapyeong-daero 40-gil 37 (서울특별시 용산구 녹사평대로40나길 37) |

@c.through

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A CUP

AND A

BOUQUET

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Here in the beautiful Alocasia Cafe, spring lives all year round Story BECKY WHITE • Photos AHN DONG HO

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t’s a quiet dream of a cafe; a cafe of stone, wood, and flowers.

Welcome to Alocasia Cafe. The owner is so sweet - you can see her loveliness all over the cafe decor; handwritten letters tied to miniature dried bouquets, the warm lighting dangling over the front counter, and lilies strewn over the register. Her touch is in everything from the fresh flowers waiting to be cut and arranged to the beautifully placed waffles and fruits you can order from the extensive menu.

The menu has everything from fruit teas to kimchi mixed rice; we ordered everything we could, wanting to taste the ice cold Americano, grapefruit tea served over a small candle to keep it warm, the fried egg placed smack in the center of the fried rice, and the fresh cream with the hot waffle sprinkled over with powdered sugar. It’s all presented neatly and is as delicious as it looks in the menu photographs. ▶

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The art of flowerarranging is carried on in the classes held at the cafe

Alocasia Cafe is not placed in the center of Seoul, located out near Hoegi Station and a bit of walk from it as well, but it’s worth the journey. The wide windows let in sunlight all day and the wooden interior decorating creates a warm environment, welcoming guests to sit and chat for hours.

The cafe itself does not boast a unique nor cutting-edge interior, but is simply comfortable; which is what one should demand from a proper cafe. Well-made food and drinks to go along with a good environment makes this space worthy of appreciation. But beyond those things, perhaps the thing that makes Alocasia Cafe such a haven of quiet and somehow, living beauty, are the flowers that adorn the coffeeshop.

Alocasia Cafe Dongdaemun-gu Hoegi-ro 111 |

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@alocasiaflowercafe

Small blossoms sit in glasses on every table, and taut leaves dangle from the countertops. The air in the cafe is sultry with green life; it’s peaceful and kind inside the cafe, and a good amount of that is due to the fresh bouquets. The flowers fill the space like silent fireworks of red, blue, white, yellow and pink. The owner arranges the flowers herself, and as I left the cafe that cloudy morning, she handed me a bouquet of blue azaleas and white roses. “Thank you for coming,” she said.

Thank you for having us, I replied, holding the flowers close. Here in the beautiful Alocasia Cafe, spring lives all year round.

For those interested in taking flower arranging classes, visit their website at https://alocaia.modoo.at

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A TWENTY-FOUR HOUR ESCAPE A romantic hideaway right near home Story & Photos BECKY WHITE

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pringtime in Seoul is magical. What with dream-like cherry blossoms blooming and a gentle breeze playing across the heartstrings of Seoulites, young and old alike, there’s no doubt that love is in the air. When spring rolls around in Korea, I am always overtaken by the desire to travel. Wanderlust and romantic thoughts are powerful persuasions to book a ticket to the nearest destination, but unfortunately work and obligations make an equally compelling reason to stay put. Finding L’Escape Hotel and staying there for a weekend instead offered the perfect solution.

Opened in 2018, L’Escape Hotel is a boutique hotel designed by the respected French interior designer Jacques Garcia and offers a unique, vintage-Parisian experience to the guest. Within the quiet hotel walls, culture, fine dining, graceful decor and unrivaled service are the norm.

One can expect a private and luxurious time at L’Escape.

Upon entering the hotel, a proudly placed flower tree in the corner of the lobby caught my eye. The tree, designed

by Tony Marklew, sweeps from the checkered tile floor to the ceiling, pink and white flowers exploding across the entire

structure. It is a bold and beautiful signal to guests that you’ve entered L’Escape Hotel.

I was greeted warmly at the main reception and handed a white envelope that held my room keys, and led to the elevator to go to my room. The elevator itself is mirrored and dim. “Etage dix-huit,” the elevator chimed as it reached the eighteenth floor. I stepped out into the hall and walked down the silent corridor towards my room.

I stayed in the Blue suite room, with a king-sized bed, private bathroom separated by a mirrored, folding partition, and a small sitting area furnished with velvety couches and plush cushions. ▶

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Regal portrait paintings hung on the wall and the finely threaded tapestry-like decorations that cover every inch of the room looked like classic fairy tale drawings.

Gold thread shot through the heavy fabric that hung above the bed offset the white sheets beautifully and the downy duvet was enticing already.

The bathroom is an absolute dream. An old-fashioned bathtub sits gleaming in the corner, bath salts placed on a metal tray that sits across the bathtub rim, enticing you to pull a hot bath and perhaps read a good book while doing so. The bathroom is elegantly designed and brightly lit, unlike the bedroom, which was dim when I entered due to the heavy curtains that block the sunlight from coming in through the large windows. The curtains, effectively preventing any stray sunbeam from waking a guest in the early morning, combined with the deliciously soft mattress and pillows makes for a sweet, dreamless sleep.

But there is much more to do than simply sleep at L’Escape. It is no common hotel. It boasts a fitness center outfitted with training weights, treadmills and spin bikes, a spa, restaurants, a tea room, a bar, and a library. In the surrounding areas, guests can stroll a few minutes and come across Namdaemun Market, where it’s bustling with shoppers at all hours, Noon Square and Seven Luck Casino.

The breakfast offered on the twenty sixth floor at the contemporary restaurant L’Amant Secret is an affair all by itself.

The menu lists various dishes suitable for breakfast, with fresh croissants and butter elegantly shaped on a small dish. The coffee is brewed well; this all thanks to the infamous Hell Cafe that has a partnership with the hotel. One hot cup to go along with my granola, yogurt and fresh fruit made for a divine morning. Sunlight filters through the many windows that line the restaurant, and the view outside over the city is at odds with the lavish interior of the hotel.

Looking outside at Seoul, while seated at my breakfast table gave me the feeling of gazing at a futuristic world while safely nestled inside a 1920s restaurant.

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Within the quiet hotel walls, culture, fine dining, graceful decor and unrivaled service are the norm.

I strolled through the hotel, more content than if I were royalty surveying my private palace, and came across the library. Access is offered to suite guests only and is decorated with green lamps and dark wood, effectively making the space both sophisticated and cozy.

Busts of authors and philosophers sit on the bookshelves and on stone columns, gazing around the library like Greek heroes. I felt drawn to stay for a while; it is hard to resist opening a book and reading in this quiet room. In the corner, next to a wide staircase that leads to the floor below, a grand piano sits, its black and white keys mirroring the black-andwhite checkered tile theme of the hotel. It serves as a reminder of the kind of culture and class the hotel embraces.

There are two cafes on the seventh floor, both serving fine coffees and various drinks. One room is stylized with plush seating, ornately decorated mirrors and gold-gilded clocks, while the room adjacent to it is adorned with tropical birds and green, velvet chairs. The two different styles of interior serve to please guests with different tastes. Both are unique, both are sophisticated and both politely declare “luxury.� The cafe beside the library is cozier and feels warmer, thanks to the red and gold accents, while the cafe with the acrylic birds opens up to great windows with a view of the city.

I came as the sun was setting, watching the warm, evening light glint off the tall buildings that surround the hotel.

Tiring of Western food for the night, I decided to enjoy my dinner at the Palais de Chine. This restaurant located within the hotel serves gourmet Chinese food in its exquisite space. The main room is grand, warm lights gleaming above the many tables, dimly lighting the restaurant in a romantic glow. The reflective tiles on the walls shimmer like shattered diamonds, and the murmur of conversation and clinking tableware is friendly and intriguing all at once. A private room off by the bar contains a large dining table where guests can have an exclusive dinner party. â–ś

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After a many-coursed meal, each dish tastier than the one before, I headed back up to the twenty sixth floor and to my final destination of the night; Marque d’Amour.

No stay at L’Escape Hotel is complete without a cocktail made by the head bartender Maxim. Being friendly with the bartender is a must, and here with Maxim it is hardly difficult. He hails from Russia and brings with him a vast knowledge of mixology and a generous hand. The bar is intimate, lush and classic. Where the rest of the hotel remains faithful to its vintage Paris design, Marque d’Amour breaks away a bit and plays more modern music, blending old European class and the excitement of a night out on the town.

Polishing off my last cocktail, created personally by Maxim, I yawned and said my goodnights to the bartenders. My kingsized bed was calling me and I had neither the will nor strength to deny sleep. Falling among the sumptuous blankets was the last thing I did before turning the lights off. The lamps dimmed slowly until the room was embraced by warm darkness.

As I was closing my eyes, I savored the romance and luxury of the day I had spent at L’Escape, and soon I fell asleep.

L’Escape Hotel Toegye-ro 67, Jung-gu Seoul |

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+82.2317.6000 |

@lescape_hotel

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One can expect a private and luxurious time at L’Escape

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t was a drizzly morning, the driver was dexterously steering the left-handed car through the Kathmandu traffic when “Monkeys!”, my sons shouted pointing to a roof in one of the houses lining the streets. As if sensing their excitement, more monkeys emerged out of unnoticed holes playfully bouncing around as if they are in their natural habitat. The irony is that, the streets of Kathmandu have seemingly become their natural habitat judging from the number of monkeys coming out every now and then. Kathmandu is a perfect illustration of the harmonious co-existence of men, monkeys, dogs, and cows in an urban milieu! They are left undisturbed, even revered in the case of cows.

Accommodation As we were inching our way towards the Soaltee Crowne Plaza, more monkeys playfully crossed the narrow road exclusively used for hotel guests. Soaltee Crowne is a wide compound of buildings that make up for the main hotel, conference halls, the Regal Suites, pool, casino, and a wide lawn that makes it a world apart from the busy, narrow roads of Kathmandu’s everyday life. The first glimpse of the hotel was a little disappointing. Soaltee Crowne is, after all, fit for the Heads of State and the British Royals! The 50+ year old hotel accommodated the late Princess Diana and is still the place to go to for visiting Heads of State.

But standing on its lobby surrounded by multi-layered walls of mahogany and white clean lines, we instantly changed our mind.

After several days of staying at the hotel, we left with respect for the old grandeur it holds for a country still slowly but progressively recovering from tragedies, and the kindness that the managers and staff effortlessly extended to their visitors.

TASTES AND COLORS OF KATHMANDU Kathmandu fills yours senses and leaves you enthralled you would wish you can stay a little bit longeR Story & Photos WENDY PALOMO

Food “Food is a central activity of mankind and one of the single most significant trademarks of a culture.” – Mark Kurlansky Eating goes hand in hand with traveling so a trip to restaurants serving authentic country dishes constantly forms part of the itinerary. Nepal offers ample culinary dishes to choose from but dal bhat and momos top the list of dishes to try! There are countless restaurant recommendations where to get the best

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Nepalese cuisine, but how about learning to cook it yourself?

So, I scheduled a cooking class with Nepal Cooking School to get the most out of the food culture experience! Nepal Cooking School was established in January 2016 to provide Nepali cooking classes to tourists. The profit goes to the funding of Journey Nepal projects, a social organization in Kathmandu working in partnership with the women and children to provide opportunities for education, employment and skills training. As scheduled, I arrived at the Thamel address of the cooking school. I chose the dishes so that we can go to the market to buy the necessary ingredients. Yes, going to the market is part of the class so you get to experience the hustle and bustle of Thamel with a local and like a local.

I chose this menu set for my cooking experience: egg rolls, dal (yellow lentil soup), Nepali aachar, chicken curry, stir fried greens, and choco momo for dessert. I wouldn’t have known that a momo can also be a dessert and it’s possible to put in choco instead of meat and vegetables.

Places to visit A Kathmandu visit isn’t one if you don’t see yourself standing in Durbar Square, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It is heavily-damaged and reconstruction is painstakingly slow. The remains of the buildings have magnificent wood works and it isn’t hard to imagine how spectacular it once was. Inside Durbar Square is the Kumari Ghar, home of Nepal’s living goddess. But she isn’t one for the tourists to gawk at. Tourists aren’t supposed to see her, but if you’re lucky enough, you can see her sans camera.

You cannot take photos of the living goddess, she is protected and worshipped. She is believed to be a reincarnation of the Hindu goddess Taleju and for Newar Buddhists, she is the embodiment of the supreme female deity Vajradevi. ▶

Kathmandu is a perfect illustration of the harmonious co-existence of men, monkeys, dogs, and cows in an urban milieu

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Incense completes the sensory overload. Even in the busy and narrow alleys of the touristy shopping center, spirituality is in every corner of ThameL

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site is the Swayambhunath, or the Monkey Temple. It is a haven for monkeys. They are all around playing, jumping, and living nonchalantly going around with locals and tourists. It is home to them, they cannot be disturbed. Instead, visitors go about respecting their spaces. They are the holy monkeys of Swayambhunath because they are lice which transformed into monkeys from the head of Manjushree, the bodhisattva of wisdom. I love this legend! For tourists, the hilltop where the largest stupa stands is a perfect place to view the city of Kathmandu. You get to see the city from a distance without going through the smell, noise and chaos of the city.

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The shopping center of Thamel is vibrant with its colors and noise. Plus the smell of all the Nepali dishes emanating from various restaurants invites the hungry and the curious. Incense completes the sensory overload. Even in the busy and narrow alleys of the touristy shopping center, spirituality is in every corner of Thamel. Be prepared for the dazzle of colors going around for shopping. You’ll be tempted to haggle, excitement lies in haggling when shopping, after all. But I suggest not. The 2019 average salary in Nepal is 34,490 Nepalese Rupee or around 310 US dollars. Enjoy Kathmandu and what it offers and deal with its people with compassion. Nepalese are welcoming, always with a ready smile.

Just when you think there is hardly any corner for peace and quiet, the Garden of Dreams provides solace. It is merely a walk from the shopping area. Its white gate is a portal to a world in complete contrast to the chaos and the dusty roads around it.

Despite the number of tourists coming in, you can find your own spot for an hour or two of tranquility.

Getting a Nepal tourist visa is uncomplicated. Visa upon arrival can be processed at the airport for 25US dollars but gratis for children under 10 years old.

Bring a passport size photo and fill-out the application form handed on the airplane or you can also get a form at the airport upon arrival.

Namaste!

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FAMILY AND KIDS Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age. A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. www.etonhouseprep.com AMUSEMENT PARKS Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogokeup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgyedong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book?

(02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seochodong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic 02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products.

COSMETIC SURGERY MIZAIN plastic surgery Seoul National University College of Medicine graduate doctors offer the best quality medical services • (02) 515 6199 • Dosan-daero 423 (Cheongdam-dong 91-11), Gangnam-gu, Seoul www.mizainps.com MVP plastic surgery Welcoming environment for foreigners and friendly staff guarantees a pleasant visit for cosmetic surgery related consultations. (02) 3442 6669 •Nonhyeon-ro 819, Gangnam-gu, Seoul JK plastic surgery center Experience the best medical system in Korea. Its superb system allows the minimum efforts for your medical experiences.

(02) 777 0337 • 584-2 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksamdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul www.exxl.co.kr

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UROLOGY & OB Sewum Urology (02) 3482-8575 • 10th fl., Dongil bldg., 429 Gangnam-daero, Seochogu, Seoul Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul DENTAL CLINIC Boston Dental Clinic General dentistry / Periodontics / Orthodontics (02) 3482-0028 • 92-12 5F, Banpo 4-dong (Seorae French Village), Seocho-gu, Seoul OPHTHALMOLOGY Dream Eye Center The best eye clinic for LASIK and LASEK. 3,000+ foreign patients over 20+ years of experience with 0 complaints. If you’re considering getting this, make sure to choose the best.

• 1588 9881 • 14 fl., Mijin Plaza, 825 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul ANIMAL HOSPITALS Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

MUSEUM AND GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean.

National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongnogu, Seou This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture.

Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals.

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeongro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • 10:30 am-6 pm Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art. • 10 am-6 pm Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul • 10 am-6 p. m.

Closed on Mondays.

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdong-gil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung gu,Seoul

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Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susongdong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1244 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gayadaero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1244 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612824, Korea

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpagu, Seoul Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

AIRLINES Korean Air 1588-2001

FAMILY AND KIDS Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeongdong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmudong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul

Asiana Airlines 1588-8000 Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180 Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Jeju Air 1599-1500

Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

T’way Air 1688-8686 Jin Air 1600-6200 Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700v Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 3 to 18 from over 40 different countries.

6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea http://seoul.dulwich.org/ admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

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