Groove Korea 2016 May

AGIT: The Bus Of Hope

KOREA • Issue 115 • May 2016

Podding Around G1

PDCST:

The City

The ultimate eater's guide to the

RAMYEON

AISLE

Vang Vieng: Post - Party

Town or Myth?

Admiring The Admiral:

HANGING OUT

WITH

SANIRANG ALPINE

NETWORKS Sin Across the Country with Yi Sun

EDITORIAL

May 2016

It’s

a month of return with Groove showcasing the best that has come back to Korea. Cover feature legend, Yi Sun Sin, is remembered for his feats as Trevor Owens visits five outstanding sites which honor the Admiral’s great conquests.

George Kalli is also on the move as he remembers his own travels to post-party town Vang Vieng.

K-Film also returns with some of the most renowned actors and directors back on the big screen after a hiatus. The film festival season is also back with Simon McEnteggart highlighting some of the themes which arrive in town this month.

C N O VT EH R O E

May 2016

Trevor Owens travels up and down the country to discover the true tale of Yi Sun Sin. Trevor, an avid Admiral follower, seeks his birth place, visits the significant Turtle Ship Battle Grounds and also pays respects at his resting place.

Cover Photo by Trevor Owens

Staying outdoors and Emma Kalka is preparing for Greenplugged and a more environmentally sound way to enjoy music. Similarly, Liam Ring goes back to the sounds of nature with Irish composer Nick Roth after his recent visit to Seoul. Hallie Bradley finds out what’s happening for the kids this Children’s Day and Naomi Blenkinsop gets in touch with her feline side when visiting some of the capital’s cat cafés.

In food and drink, Andy Hume discovers the delights of chocolate while Yoo Jin Oh and Charlotte Hammond keep cooking up those rice alternatives. Rob Shelley prepares for the next Great

Beer Fest while the Kiwi chamber bring some of their fine wine selections to Seoul and Busan for the New Zealand Wine Festival.

In sports, Tom Godfrey tries his debut hand (and foot) at mountain climbing while Natalie Hallemans shares her upcoming outdoor ventures with the Seoul Sisters’ heading to Japan.

With so many activities coming our way, we would need a bigger magazine to fit it all in too.

So check www.groovekorea.com for all the latest event and festival information this month. Get that summer wardrobe sorted – it’s time to get out and about.

What's in this issue Vol. 115 May 2016

48 The G1PDCST offers a different take on the Korea experience 04

EDITORIAL

10

KEY PEOPLE Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

14

WHAT'S ON Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

18, 20-21

NATIONAL NEWS national news with Korea JoongAng Daily

SPONSORS 24

IT GOES TO ELEVEN The HBC Fest returns for its 11th installment of music celebration

25

HANSAN RAMIE FABRIC CULTURAL FESTIVAL Hansan Mori calls for a more traditional time

26

www.groovekorea.com May 2016

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KIA ORA KOREA The Kiwi Chamber gives a warm welcome to locals and expats at this year's Wine Festival THE INVISIBILITY OF HOMELESS YOUTH AGIT's yellow bus stops to help the homeless

38

A VIEW FROM ABOVE Tom Godfrey spends a little time at Yeon

THE CAMARATA MUSIC COMPANY The local choir with the big voice

COMMUNITY

ENTERTAINMENT

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40

30

42

FAMILY PRIDE A celebration for the Children can be all year round

6

34

CAT CAFÉ EXPRESS Naomi Blenkinsop visits some furry felines around town

32

READY TO WEAR Bow ties needn't be retro in 21st Century fashion

MUSIC FESTIVAL WITH A MISSION The one and only environmentally friendly festival arrives in town TALES FROM THE WOODLAND An irishman talks composition, politics and ecology

44

THREE BY… A welcome return to some of the biggest names in K-Film this month

THE FILM FESTIVALS OF SPRING The international film season gets underway with a few picks from Simon McEnteggart PODDING ALL OVER TOWN Everyone's favorite podder, GP gives us the lowdown on G1PDCST

50

A WRITER’S PROGRESS What inspires Seoul's brightest expatriate writers?

p.34

Kiwi Chamber brings the best of New Zealand to the peninsula

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What's in this issue Vol. 115 May 2016

68

A historical tour around Korea courtesy of Yi Sun Sin.

SPORT 52

ROCKS AND RIDGES A climbing novice spends an afternoon on Bukhansan

54

SUN, SAND AND RUGBY IN BEAUTIFUL OKINAWA Seoul Sisters head to Okinawa

56

RETURN OF THE BLACK WIDOW The Black Widow spins a web at Camp Humphreys

58

MCDONALD'S CREATE YOUR TASTE Can Angus beef and fancy burger add-ons offer a tastier McDonald's experience?

59

8

www.groovekorea.com May 2016

RESTAURANT BUZZ Canadian cuisine, Galmegi beer and more for May. CHIQUITA PEPITA A cucumber-infused cocktail with enticing verdita

60

KONG PROJECT STAGE 2 The latest installment of Jordan Redmond's agricultural experience making soy sauce

62

THE ROUGH GUIDE TO RAMYEON The ultimate Korean rameyon roundup.

TRAVEL 68

SWEET STEAMS ARE MADE OF THIS How to bake fresh bread with a rice cooker

IN THE SHADOW OF THE ADMIRAL Trevor Owens tours the country to find out the true tale of the Admiral

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KIMBAP TO PERFECT ANY PICNIC AT KIM’S RICE Picnic kimbap to go in Yeouido CHOCOLATE OVERLOAD IN MYEONG-DONG Get your spoon around the ultimate chocolate bingsu

66

SUMMER OF '69… CRAFT BEERS What to expect at two of Korea's biggest craft festivals this May

THE PARTY GOES ON IN VANG VIENG George Kalli discovers what the Laos town is really like post-party

74

PHOTOSHOP PhotoShop showcases some of the nifty handiwork of our expat photographers

p.40

Greenplugged Seoul combines environmental awareness and good music for a unique springtime music fest experience.

Key people

Steve Smith

From the -30 degree days of Northern Greenland, to +52 degree days of the Middle East, and now in mild and beautiful Korea, Steve Smith has been an expat for over 12 years. His spare time is dedicated to family, photography, and adventure motorcycling, and he loves to share his experiences with friends both new and old.

Tom Godfrey

Emma Kalka

decided to be a music journalist at 15, and finally got her big break six years ago in Seoul. While she has focused on Korean hip-hop the past two years and runs the hip-hop blog Discovering Korean Underground, she’s a fan of all live music, especially a good blues band.

is a writer and photographer from small town Massachusetts.

He has been living in Korea for nearly 5 years. He enjoys riding his bicycle, learning to cook Korean food, and traveling around the country.

He stays motivated to travel by maintaining a blog of travel photography at tomgodfreyphotos.tumblr.com.

Liam Ring

10 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Trevor Owens

is a human who puts words next to other words with incredible competence. His piece on Yi Sun Sin is the culmination of three years learning and traveling in Korea. One day he hopes to visit historical sites in a free North Korea. You can reach Trevor at trevowens1@gmail.com.

Liam combines his love of sports and writing as Groove’s Sports and Assistant Editor. When not having an ESA at his favorite watering hole, he reads Murakami and Mitchell, cries over Arsenal’s faltering league form (Champions League disasters are now expected) and messes around with novel writing. He still counts missing My Bloody Valentine’s Seoul gig a few years back as his greatest Korea regret.

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naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com ASSISTANT EDITOR

liam RING liam@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL

COMMUNITY FOOD & DRINK ENTERTAINMENT TRAVEL SPORTS PHOTO

REASONABLE STAY

naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com charlotte HAMMOND food@groovekorea.com naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com liam RING liam@groovekorea.com steve SMITH photo@groovekorea.com COPY EDITORS

at the perfect location

Gil Coombe, Tom Godfrey W RITERS & CONTRIBUTORS

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Naheen Madarbakus, Liam Ring Giacomo Lee, George Kalli, Anita McKay, Tom Godfrey, Hallie Bradley, Naomi Blenkinsop, Celeste Maturen, Emma Kalka, Simon McEnteggart, Trevor Owens, Robert Kienzle, Jordan Redmond, Dave Hazzan, Rob Shelley, Andy Hume, Bobby Kim, Yoo Jin Oh, Charlotte Hammond, Todd Tavares, Ji Mizell, Peter Jensen-Choi, Scott Muller, Bryan Watkins, Chris Saint Germain, Steve Smith, Salgu Wissmath, HBC Fest, Hansan Mosi, RocknBows, Kiwi Chamber, AGIT, CMC, Blair Kitchener, Greenplugged, HanCinema, The Green Film Festival in Seoul, The Seoul Food Film Festival, Seoul International Women’s Festival, James Thole, Anna Jo, Jo Turner, Media Paran, Good Times ROK, Maple House, nickrothmusic.com, Frances Marshall, Mick Quinn, Shutterstock ART & DESIGN

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All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2016

MAY CALENDAR SAT

SUN

Cloud Bread, a jukebox musical in English @ Seongsu Art Hall in Sungdong-gu, Seoul/May 4-22

The War Memorial of Korea Children’s Day Festival @ The WMOK in Yongsan-gu Seoul www.warmemo.or.kr 7

GREENPLUGGED Seoul 2016 @ Hangang Nanji Park

14 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Seoul Jazz Fes t ival 2016 @ Olympic Park May 28-29

2

Great Korean Beer Festival @ COEX outdoor plaza May 4-8 8

15

28

TUE

9

16

PHANTOM DETECT IVE

Children’s Day events on May 5

23

M83. live in Seoul @ Blue Square in Hannam-dong

21

MON

Paju Book Festival National Folk Museum of Korea @ Paju Book City May 5-8 / www.kidsnfm.go.kr www.pajubfc.org

T INASHE live @ Yes24 Live Hall in Gwang jin-gu Seoul

What's on

29

FC Seoul Expat Day @ Sangam World Cup Stadium / www.fcseoul. com/en/main/main. jsp

T he Seoul Food Film Fes t ival @ COEX May 26-31 / www.sifff.kr 30

Damyang Bam @ Juknokwon Gwangbang je in Damyang, province

WED

THU

mboo Fes t ival n and erim areas Jeonnam

May 3-8

FRI 6

5

3

13

Beaut iful Mint Life 2016 @ Olympic Park May 14-15

11

QUEER Cult ure Fes t ival May11-19 Queer Parade starts at Seoul Plaza 19

25

Chuncheon Internat ional Mime Fes t ival @ KT&G Sangsang Madang in Chuncheon May 26-29

GOKSUNG

Korean Contemporary Ar t is t s Series Kim Bongtae / MMCA Gwacheon May 25-Jul 10

X-Men: Apocalypse

18

MY NEW SASSY GIRL

17

T he 100t h Anniversary of t he Bir t h of Korea Modern Mas ters_Lee Jung-Seob 1916-1990 / MMCA Deoksugung / Jun 3- Oct 3

유망축제

20

27

HBC Music Fes t ival May 27-28

26

Hansan Mosi (Ramie) Fes t ival in Seocheongun, Chungnam province / Jun 3-6

T he Green Film Fes t ival @ INDIESPACE in Gwanghwamun May 6-12

10

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Ultimately, the main cause of hair loss is stress, especially if it is severe and long term. Women nowadays face a great deal of pressure to play the role of "super mom", among other social roles, which creates anxiety and increased stress.

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A In the past it was said that there was no treatment for female hair loss, but numerous studies have shown viable treatment options, which increase the percentage of female patients who have found a cure for their hair loss.

Korean traditional medicine offers several remedies made with natural, organic components. These make it possible to receive treatment without side effects. Korean medicine offers a range of medicinal herbs to help improve metabolism, strengthen immune functions, improve body organs and increase blood circulation. All these things help to deliver the required nutrition to the hair follicles, reproducing a stronger structure for the hair shaft.

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NATI ONAL NE WS

All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity.

The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

In association with May 2016 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

KOREAN POLICE HELP BUST BROTHELS IN NEW YORK

18 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

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orean and U.S. police jointly cracked down on brothels in New York that hired Korean women, leading to the arrest of 49 people including brothel owners and people allegedly involved in recruiting and advertising the sex workers.

The Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency said on May 19 that it sent officers to the United States to cooperate with prosecutors and federal agencies, leading to the arrest last week of 48 people there and a 38-yearold man surnamed Kim, based in Korea, who was in charge of operating a website advertising the sex workers’ services.

Kim’s mother, a 63-year-old woman surnamed Ham who was based in New York, collected commissions for the advertisements. The sex workers hired at the brothel were among those rounded up by the police.

Since last July, U.S. prosecutors, federal agencies and the Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency have conducted a large-scale operation combating illegal Korean prostitution rings in New York.

They launched a joint operation on April 13 enabling a search and seizure of some 10 businesses involved in the sex trade employing Korean women.

This was the result of a four-year U.S. federal investigation into a ring of Korean brothel operators that brought women from Korea into the United States to work as sex workers. The businesses were disguised as massage parlors or spas.

The Korean women were mostly in their 20s and 30s and visited the United States on 90-day visas. The women testified to police that they received around $200 per hour for sex work.

The women were able to travel to the United States on a visa waiver program for tourists, exploiting the Electronic System for Travel Authorization, according to a criminal complaint filed with a New York federal district court by the U.S. Department of State Diplomatic Security Service.

The complaint charges 11 defendants involved with the operation of brothels and its advertising of money laundering and conspiring against U.S. law between 2011 and 2016. Since 2011, the defendants are accused of laundering more than $1.4 million.

The women allegedly worked illegally as prostitutes and turned over a percentage of their earnings to owners of the businesses to cover room and board as well as the cost of advertising their services. Some of the businesses offered a so-called girlfriend experience, an upgraded service that could

cost twice as much as a normal prostitution service. Advertisements for the “girlfriend experience” services included the acronym “GFE” over images of the woman photographed either nude or in lingerie. Many were described as “new” or “first time in U.S.A.” The brothels maintained extensive lists of “approved” customers, and brothel owners often shared information over KakaoTalk.

A New York Police Department search in April 2015 of one brothel in New York led to the confiscation of a computer file of more than 70,000 contacts thought to be customers, along with bundles of cash and customer appointment sheets.

Seoul police said that a lot of money earned in the brothels went to Kim and for advertising fees. Kim graduated from college in the United States and worked in finance but was not able to adjust to that career and turned to advertising for the brothels, according to the police. He enjoyed a luxurious lifestyle in Korea, driving a BMW and Porsche. Seoul police said this was the first time it had sent officers to the United States for a joint operation. They said it was expected to set a “precedent” for future cooperation.

Police are considering summoning the arrested women back to Korea.

TATSUYA KATO SUES SEOUL GOVERNMENT FOR COURT FEES NONHYUN SERVICED APARTMENT

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May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 19

atsuya Kato, the former chief of the Japanese daily Sankei Shimbun’s Seoul bureau, who was acquitted after being accused of defaming President Park Geun-hye, filed a claim against the Korean government for compensation for the trial process.

The Seoul Central District Court confirmed on May 17 that Kato filed the claim in March, demanding criminal indemnity for the money he spent during the investigation and trial, including legal and transportation fees, as well as the cost of flying in witnesses from Japan and their lodgings.

Kato was charged in October 2014 with defaming Park after he had reported on Aug. 3 that she went missing for seven hours during the Sewol ferry disaster of April 16, 2014, and had been spending time with a recently divorced former aide.

He was ultimately found not guilty of defaming the president last December and was acquitted by the Seoul Central District Court, which ruled that, while Kato had negligently reported rumors about Park while knowing they were false, the article was under the domain of the freedom of the press. Korean prosecutors had initially requested an 18-month prison sentence for Kato.

The prosecution did not appeal the Seoul court’s decision, determining that it had been made clear that Kato’s report had been false and taking into account the diplomatic aspect, as the two countries were trying to advance bilateral relations.

The amount Kato has filed for has not been revealed, however the investigation and trial into the defamation case spanned around one year and four months, during which time Kato was barred from leaving Korea.

Article 194-2 of the Korean Criminal Procedure Act stipulates: “If a judgement of acquittal is finally affirmed, the State shall be liable for the expenses incurred to the person who was a defendant in the relevant case for defending his case on trial.”

The court will decide upon the amount depending on the mental anguish incurred, if there had been any willful misconduct or negligence on the part of prosecutors and court and other factors.

The amount rewarded, if any, would come from Korean government tax money.

We make sure you are home at the end of your day

NATI ONAL NE WS

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TALENTED

20 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

MR. SONG'S T S A P REVEALED

police investigation into the 26-year-old man who broke into the Central Government Complex five times in the past two months revealed a colorful past - and a talent for breaking rules to get what he wants.

Police handed the suspect, surnamed Song, to the prosecution April 14 on charges of trespassing, theft, obstruction of public office work, alteration of records and forgery. Song broke into the government office to change his failing grade on a civil service exam to a pass.

Song showed notable skill in that penetration, stealing government officials’ identification cards from a locker room, wearing sandals around the complex to better resemble someone working in the building, and having ready a hacking program on a USB drive to penetrate the computer security system.

It turns out Song had plenty of practice in subterfuge and rule breaking from his college years.

According to the police, after his first semester as freshman in college, Song decided to take College Scholastic Abili-

ty Test (CSAT) - the national college entrance exam in Korea - once more in 2010 to get admission to a better school. After forging a medical document, Song registered as a test-taker with disabilities - in his case, with weak vision. This allotted Song 50 percent more time per test than given other test-takers. Song used this extra time to pop into the bathroom after the normal test-takers had left, where he had hidden a smartphone. He checked online the answers uploaded after each test was finished, which was the norm at the time. Song got excellent scores in all subjects except Korean language and literature.

Song didn’t get into a new college, but his ambition remained. In 2011, he registered to take the CSAT again, once more as a test-taker with disabilities. But the procedure had changed and answers were no longer posted after each test concluded.

Police discovered that in the college Song is attending now, he skipped a number of classes but made sure that six of them were excused absences for a medical complaint: lumbar spinal stenosis. He allegedly forged a medical docu-

ment to prove the ailment.

In order to fulfill the prerequisites to take the national civil service exam, Song forged and stole some more.

A college student must be selected by his school to take the civil service exam.

The process usually involves GPA qualifications and tests. Song tracked down a private tutoring academy in Sillim-dong, southern Seoul, that had a role in writing his college’s test. He stole copies of test and answers from the academy and aced the exam, receiving approval to take the civil service exam.

Civil service test-takers also need a score higher than second grade in the Korean history test conducted by the National Institute of Korean History and higher than 700 in TOEIC, the English proficiency test in Korea. Song changed the date on his forged medical document about his poor eyesight and used it again to get more hours to take the tests.

Song was finally caught four days after he had changed his test result in the Central Government Complex computer, when an official in charge noticed that the number of successful test-takers had changed from 49 to 50.

In association with

NATI ONAL NE WS

v

OXY MANUFACTURER

DEALS TO

VICTIMS the Asian Citizen’s Center for Environment and Health, a civic group that is working with victims in the scandal.

Tens of lawsuits suing humidifier sterilizer companies have been deadlocked for the past few years, as investigations by police and prosecution have been ongoing.

The daughter, son and wife of a 44-yearold man complained of having difficulty breathing since using Oxy’s humidifier sterilizer from 2009 to 2011, and have been registered as victims of the humidifier sterilizer by the Ministry of Health and Welfare.

The man told the JoongAng Ilbo that he filed a lawsuit against Reckitt Benckiser Korea. He was approached by an official of the company last June, who offered compensation in exchange for withdrawing the lawsuit. The man asked for 100 million won ($88,500), but the company offered half the amount. The man rejected the compensation’s offer.

According to insiders in legal circles, Reckitt Benckiser Korea has been paying victims from 10 million to a few hundred million won, depending on the seriousness of their injuries.

Prosecutors are investigating whether Reckitt Benckiser Korea attempted to cover up or manipulate data on deaths caused by its sterilizer.

Prosecutors found that it deleted a material safety data sheet submitted by SK Chemical, producer of the fatal PHMG (polyhexamethylene guanidine) chemical used in sterilizer products, including Oxy’s. PHMG was the cause of the poisoning.

SK Chemical’s data sheet contains information on safe usage and management of the chemical. It includes a clause that reads, “Do not eat, drink or inhale” PHMG because it is harmful to humans, according to prosecutors.

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 21

eckitt Benckiser Korea, manufacturer of the popular Oxy line of cleaning products, has been furtively striking compensation deals with victims of the deadly humidifier sterilizers that took the lives of some 100 people, despite having remained silent on the scandal for five years.

Reckitt Benckiser Korea was formerly a Korean company called Oxy, but it merged with Britain’s Reckitt Benckiser in 2001, changing its name to Oxy Reckitt Benckiser.

The company changed its name again to Reckitt Benckiser Korea in 2014 - which critics see as an attempt to distance itself from the sterilizer scandal. Koreans know the company by its original name and its most famous brand, Oxy. Reports of mysterious pulmonary illnesses across the nation date back to as early as 2006, and in 2011, the Korean Centers for Disease Control and Prevention released a report linking the health problems with chemicals used in the humidifier sterilizers.

They noticed that many of the victims were people who stayed at home a lot near humidifiers - such as pregnant women and infants.

Prosecutors say Oxy’s sterilizer affected the highest number of people because of its popularity.

They say 177 suffered from using Oxy’s humidifier sterilizers, of which 70 died.

As many as 27 victims and their families have withdrawn lawsuits after receiving compensation from the Oxy manufacturer, according to Barun Law, a law firm representing 50 victims.

“It looks like the company is hurrying [to conclude civil lawsuits] by offering compensation now, because if it receives criminal punishment from the authorities, it will have to pay the victims a higher price,” said a lawyer at Barun Law who wished to remain anonymous.

“For many of these victims, they have no other choice but to take these compensation deals because they are tired of waiting,” said Lim Heung-gyu, a department head at

27

CSPONSOR OMMUNI TY S Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

IT GOES TO ELEVEN The 2016 Hae Bang Chon May Music Festival rolls into its second decade

Story by: Naheen Madarbakus-Ring and Lance Reegan-Diehl Photos by: HBC Festival

24 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

The

11th Hae Bang Chon May Music Festival takes place on Friday, May 27 and Saturday, May 28. Marking a new decade for the HBC area, the longest running – and most enduring - independent music fest continues to define expat and international music in Korea. With independent music artists and performers from Korea and a host of other countries performing, this year’s theme of “It Goes to Eleven” (a quote from a rock mockumentary This is Spinal Tap) lends a bit of humor to an event that has undergone many changes and scrutiny.

First starting in 2006, HBC was a showcase for expat musicians in the city to perform to larger crowds. Originally conceived by Lance Reegan-Diehl and James Gaynor (together with the beginnings of the DEELEEBOB Music Company), Reegan-Diehl continues to be the central organizer for HBC fest which is now in its 11th year.

The main HBC street is where all the action happens. HBC Fest turns the famous local expat hangout into a bubbly and busy place. In order to remain flexible, the festival adapts to the demands of both the musicians and the size of the venues, making it all work. This year’s HBC fest sees regular

"With the main objective for local businesses to provide independent artists a place to play, everybody can start the summer with a great party."

participants V-Lounge, Phillies, Bedrock, Alley Bunker, The Cave, Bonny’s Pizza Pub, Hair of the Dog, Al Matto Terrace, Camarata Music, Genie Pub, Thunderhorse Tavern and The Workshop open their doors to revelers. Hidden Cellar will also be hosting an open stage on May 29.

Joining a host of local bands including Used Cassettes, J, Joon Band and Pentasonic, some special international guests will also be appearing. Guitarist Kenji Onizuka from Japan will perform a solo guitar show, and join the L.R.D Band, once again, for a special twin-guitar rock show. Also,the neighborhood Acoustic Jamboree put on by local artist Jennifer Waescher, will be running at Camarata Music Studio from 8pm until 11pm on May 27.

While many locations host small, acoustic acts, several live band venues, including Phillies Pub, Camarata Music, Bedrock, Thunderhorse Tavern, and V-Lounge, will accommodate loud music and rocking bands as the avalanche of sound is dampened by their basement locations. At street level, acoustic performers will entertain the busy bars, and most underground venues will host rock, alt-rock, funk, blues, and R&B bands until 1am. This is not a street party so the music – and party – will be kept inside the bars. Police and

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

When: May 26, 2016 – 9pm -12am Thunderhorse Tavern BAD HORSIE opening show.

May 27, 2016 – 9pm-12am May 28, 2016 – 4pm- 1am at 14+ venues May 29, 2016 – Hidden Cellar (7pm) and Phillies (9pm-11pm)

CSPONSOR OMMUNI TY S

venue volunteers will help move people on between venues and the traffic moving between a designated section from Bonny’s Pizza up to Bedrock. Patrons will have a temporary walking path away from traffic, so stay within the police’s plastic barriers and follow the volunteer support staff provided

by Phillies Pub sport teams, V-Lounge, and Bonny's Pizza cricket team members.

With the main objective for local businesses to provide independent artists a place to play, everybody can start the summer with a great party. Whether a live music venue or not, many openly encourage the festival with HBC Fest posters in their windows and the tremendous support they offer.

Reegan-Diehl continues to be the central player around which artists, venues and business owners revolve, and he has also brought together music sponsors Sound Drive Amplifiers, Swing Guitars, Graphtech Guitar Parts, Olympia Strings and Straps with the participating business owners. Join in the fun and support our music and help make HBC Fest bloom this year.

Cost: Free (t-shirts are KRW 15,000 to support the festival) Website: www.hbcfest.com Email: sales@deeleebob.com Phone: 070 7538 4716 – Lance Reegan-Diehl

HANSAN RAMIE FABRIC CULTURAL FESTIVAL Culture and Tradition in One Story by: Naheen Madarbakus-Ring | Photos by: Hansan Mori

The

a weekend destination while enjoying the festival delights on offer.

The festival has become synonymous with the 100-day prayer, a 1500 year tradition which tells the mythical tale of a woman whose love for her husband lead to the beginning of the festival.

Discover your own traditions this June with a visit to the festival to find out more about the delicate textiles of the Seocheon region.

More info: The Hansan Ramie Cultural Festival takes place between June 3 and June 6 at Hansan Ramie Hall and other venues.

Website: www.en.seocheon.go.kr

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 25

Hansan Ramie Fabric Cultural Festival takes place between June 3 and June 6 for a traditional celebration of the region.

Located just three and a half hours from Seoul, the four-day festival brings together the best of the Seocheon area.

Famous for producing ramie fabric, the event showcases some of the best garments and educates with seminars on traditional weaving methods. The world folk center and the event experience center aim to take visitors to yester-year, offering classes in beadmaking, straw-shoe making and weaving.

The cultural festival also celebrates the other uses of ramie, presenting produce made from the seed including rice cakes, ice cream and tea. Alongside a fashion show and a special product and local food center, the festival also has a designated children’s play center and other competitions for all members of the family to get involved in.

The Seocheon area itself is a beautiful weekend escape from the city with a surrounding forest, mountain, river and beach nearby for visitors to enjoy. Camping facilities and accommodation information are available from the organizers to make this

CSPONSOR OMMUNI TY S Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

A VIEW FROM

ABOVE

A shisha oasis in Jongno.

Story by: Tom Godfrey Photos by: Salgu Wissmath

F 26 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

rom May 6 to May 8, the Youn Deung Hoe (Lotus Lantern Festival) lights the Jongno area with a parade of brightly lit, colorful lanterns. With the Seoul city government expecting 300,000 visitors, it is proving to be a great kick-off to the warmer months. While the sea of humanity might be an important part of the festival, there is a place that is perfectly situated above the action, providing a peaceful bird’s-eye view of the festival. That place is The Youn.

The Youn, to put it simply, is a hookah bar/café located within walking distance of several downtown subway stations. It has all the staples of a hookah lounge but owner Kim Joo-nam has spent nearly ten years trying to create something unique. He has succeeded.

The Man Kim Joo-nam, a former professional DJ (though he does sometimes spin at The Youn’s table, which sits on the floor next to Zen pool) did not start out as a hookah aficionado. A decade ago, he ran a business in the basement of the building now largely

occupied by The Youn. After the place was remodeled, he was given the choice to move out or move his business to the second and third floors. Kim moved up, wanting to start a café/bar, but he knew that he needed some way to stand out from the crowd.

His answer came in the way of a glass water pipe.

With the frequency at which Koreans head to Saudi Arabia on business and a growing population of well-traveled adults, Kim hit the nail right on the head. “There is some memory for hookah,” he says. So, Kim studied everything he could about hookah. It paid off.

The Place The Youn stands above standard hookah lounges first because it is not spread lazily across an open basement. The atmosphere inside of The Youn has everything you want from a hookah bar with a few extras that literally elevate it from the standard hookah bar pack. When Kim founded The Youn nearly 10 years ago, he realized that the handful of hookah lounges in Seoul were typically located in basements. Kim sought to stand out from the

CSPONSOR OMMUNI TY S Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

fledgling pack by lifting his venue up. Located on the second and third floors, The Youn has replaced a cavernous basement with cushioncovered grottos.

The lighting is subdued but not enough to make the place claustrophobic. Fans blow a steady stream of mild incense around the room, giving an already pleasantly fragrant space a refreshing breeze. The lower floor revolves around a pool in the center lined with candles. Occasionally the bar cat wanders over, laps water, or curls up beside a scattering of candles in the Indian-themed room.

Around the island of water are low sofas or lounge cushions that overlook the neon bustle of Jongno. It is low enough to see everything that goes on outside but high enough to feel somehow like you are hovering above the chaos.

The upper floor of the cafe is occupied by more spacious cushioned booths with flowing linen that separates you just enough from your surroundings but doesn’t block out the senses.

The view here is incredible and the vibe a bit more subdued than the more populated lower floor.

Date: The Youn Deung Hoe is from May 6- May 8 Time: 12pm-2am (12pm-4am weekends) Cost: K RW 10,000 for shisha, bottles of wine start from KRW 50,000, cocktails start from KRW 8,000, teas start from KRW 6,000, Contact info: 02-725-5684 Transport: J ongak Station (Line 1, Exit 4). Walk straight and it will be on your right after about a block. It is just past Twosome Place.

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 27

The Product Kim takes obvious pride in his product. He is warm, approachable, and has a decent command of English. One of the things that makes The Youn different is that all of his shisha is both tobacco and nicotine free. They are a mixture of high quality herbs and molasses. It is certainly not free of all the health risks associated with smoking, but it provides a product that can be enjoyed by everybody. Further, Kim uses only high quality, clean burning charcoal that heats thoroughly and consistently. To maintain fair prices for the quality product,

Kim has had to obtain the hookahs, shisha, and charcoal from the USA. The products that he prefers are not readily available in Korea. By importing, he says he can provide nothing but the best for his customers, while still keeping his prices down.

While hookah lounges typically offer simple drinks and cocktails, The Youn has an impressive wine list that spans continents. Not just a sommelier of shisha, Kim is an unabashed wine freak. At one point in time, Kim says, The Youn was selling upwards of 3,500 bottles of wine a year. While they have toned down their wine business, the list still includes a huge variety that Kim uses to compliment the customer’s experience. The list runs from a KRW 50,000 Stump Jump Red to a KRW 4 million bottle of Chateaux Mouton Rothschild. Kim admits that some of the pricier wines are there for his own benefit. According to Kim, there is no reason to be intimidated by wine. “If you like wine,” he says, “it is always the best.” He is available to help pair wines that will complement the bold flavors of shisha, or vice-versa. If you’d rather keep it simple, The Youn also serves a selection of high quality tea, soft drinks, cocktails, and beer.

The Youn is a product of Kim’s passion. As the business has grown, it has adapted without compromise.

“Business would be easy if I didn’t care,” jokes Kim.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Family Pride

Finding your own support network in Seoul

C

Story and Photos by Hallie Bradley

hildren’s Day was founded in 1923 in Korea with the intent to instill independence and national pride in the children of today and adults of tomorrow. The day is now a national holiday and parades and other activities will take place all over the country to show kids love. For those considering starting a family here, it might also be a day to consider the aspects of pregnancy and birthing abroad and for others who have children and move to Korea, it’s probably a day to meet other parents and possibly start play groups. To get started, here are some organizations and groups to meet other parents and families, find doctors and other services.

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Getting a family started in Korea: Morning Calm Birthing Services This is the only foreign-owned registered childbirth service provider in Korea led by two certified doulas and childbirth educators Adele Vitale and Miriam Mangano. They provide labor support, childbirth classes, hypnobirthing classes, Dunstan baby language classes, doula services and postnatal care as well as other services and provide everything in Italian, English, Spanish, Mandarin and Korean. Adele says that their classes “are especially geared towards navigating the Korean medical system,” a task that could otherwise leave anyone stumped. Adele is certified with Childbirth International and is a trainer for the organization as well.

The ladies are capable and willing to provide perinatal support to expat and multicultural families as well as Korean families around the peninsula.

Website: www.morningcalmbirthing.com

Family Meetup Groups: Seoul Moms & Kids Group This community of foreign moms tries to provide weekly get-togethers in a mother’s home. It rotates each week, for moms with children aged five months to five years. There are also monthly afternoon get-togethers for three-year-olds and mommy coffee meetups as well as picnics, parties and other events. They aim to give mothers the opportunity to meet other mothers, find information on raising children in Korea and they have special gatherings during the holidays. Support, advice and fun as well as the chance to buy baby products and participate in clothing swaps, too are all on hand!

Email: seoulmomsandkids@gmail.com

Seoul International Playgroup This international group of mothers and their children meets every Wednesday between August and May at 10am at the Seoul International Baptist Church in Haebongcheon. The group provides Christian-based activities in a fun atmosphere with the aim of providing a place to form lasting friendships.

Website: www.sites.google.com/site/seoulplaygroup/ Email: playgroup.seoul@gmail.com Directions: Noksapyeong Subway Station (Line 6). Walk downhill, past Army Base Gate #3 on your left.

On the right side of the road there is a small alley with the Pre-School Academy.

Follow the alley 400 m. and on your right is the SIBC. Seoul International Women’s Association: Moms & Tots The Moms and Tots group hosts weekly meetings for mothers and their children with everything from coffee and play dates to visits to local museums and parks.

There are special seasonal events and even nights out for mothers.

SIWA activities are for members, but membership includes a variety of perks worth checking out. For more information, check their site out and attend a newcomers meeting.

Website: www.siwapage.com Facebook is also a place that is open to providing relationship fuel and of course the groups there abound as well. Some groups to check out for meeting other parents and babies in the area include: Infant and Toddler Mom Meet Up In Seoul: www.facebook.com/ groups/563036790529853/ ISKA – The Multicultural Family Network in Korea: www.facebook.com/groups/12591835698/ These groups can provide support during a time when the more is really the merrier and questions abound.

Don’t be afraid to reach out and meet other soon-to-be parents and families here in Korea.

May 1, 15, 29 Stitch n Bitch Meet, 2.30pm, Free, De Lambre Coffee Shop Jongno-gu Jongno 2-ga 75-8 May 6 (and every Friday), K-Pop Dance Courses, 4pm-6pm, KRW 20,000, Yeoksam Global Village

May 6, Dance Movement Therapy, 10am12pm, Free, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

(intermediate), KRW 10,000 won non-band nights/KRW 15,000 won band nights,SAMOS, Yonsero-5-dakil 22-3, 3rd floor, Chang Cheon-dong Sodemun-gu, Seoul Children’s Day Activities If getting out and about to celebrate on Children’s Day is on the agenda, here are some events to check out on the day - but these aren’t the only ones. There will be events in most big parks around the city including Boramae Park and Namsan Park. Yeouido Parks are always popular with families strolling along the Han River where bike rentals are numerous and are a regular hot spot for this holiday. Museums like the Seoul History Museum will also be hosting concerts if an educational trip is a treat for the family.

Here are three spots that are extremely popular on Children’s Day: Dream Forest Art Center Dream Forest is the fourth largest park in Seoul and has landscape hot spots from a waterfall to a pond, a pavilion and gardens too as well as a deer ranch and a water park. The park will host different events amid the beautifully curated paths host paid and free activities for children and families to get involved in.

Hit this event if being outside and having a picnic is your idea of fun.

Hours: 10am – 6pm Address: 173, Wolgye-ro, Gangbuk-gu, Seoul Directions: Dolgoji Station (Line 6, Exit 3).

Take the city bus #147 (5min ride) Children’s Grand Park Not only is the zoo a highlight for children in the park, but in the past the park has hosted everything froma free concert by the Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra to taekwondo performances, bubble shows and even a choir singing children’s songs. A Fairy Tale Festival has also taken place on the grounds the past few years. Interactive programs and parades get everyone into the spirit of fun.

Hours: 5am – 10pm Address: 216, Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul, Korea (Neung-dong) Cost: Free to the park, KRW 6,500 for adults and KRW 5,000 for children for the animal show Directions: Children’s Grand Park Station, (Line 4, Exit 1)

11am-12pm, KRW 6,000, Yeoksam Global Village Center, 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, Sign up at ygvc0417@ gmail.com

May 13, Volunteer Activity: Yongsan Center for the Disabled, 2pm-4pm, Free but sign-

up prior to the session www.global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Afterschool Class: K-Pop Dance, 4.20pm5.50pm, Free, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893 May 17, Volunteer Activity: Yongsan Senior Welfare Center, 1pm-2pm, Free but sign-up

prior to the session www.global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Tax Counseling,

9.30am-12pm, Free, Yeoksam Global Village Center, 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, Sign up at ygvc0417@gmail.com

May 19 Volunteer Activity: Young Nak Aenea’s Home, 2pm-4pm May 20 Strawberry Farm Experience, 2pm-

5pm, KRW 15,000, Yeoksam Global Village Center, 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, Sign up at ygvc0417@gmail.com

Hanji Doll Making Class

10am-12pm, KRW 11,000, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Plastic Air Freshener Making Class

1pm-3pm KRW 15,000, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

May 21 St Mary’s Hospital Volunteering Program, 10am-12pm, Free, Yeoksam Global Village Center, 16,

Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, Sign up at ygvc0417@gmail.com

May 25 Korean Porcelain Making Class, 2pm-4pm, KRW 5,000, National Museum of Korea

May 27 Najeon Mirror Making Class, 10am-12pm, KRW 6,000, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Afterschool Etiquette Class: Empathy,

4.20pm-5.50pm, Free (for Children’s Day month ☺), Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893 May 28 MMPK Meeting, 7pm, KRW 10, 000, Please check the website for the location www.mmpkorea.wordpress.com

4th New Zealand Wine Festival,

6.30pm-10.30pm, KRW 80,000 – KRW 100,000, Grand Ballroom, Park Hyatt Hotel, Busan, www.kiwichamber.com Hallie Bradley is a writer, educator, editor and more who has lived in Korea since 2006. Check out her website TheSoulofSeoul.net for more articles on culture, Korean traditions and the life of her growing multicultural family in Korea or follow her on Instagram @thesoulofseoulblog for photos along the way.

June 4, 8th New Zealand Wine Festival,

2pm-6pm KRW 80,000 – KRW 100,000, Waterfall Garden, Grand Hyatt Hotel, Seoul, www.kiwichamber.com

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 29

Imjingak Children’s Festival Imjingak Park in Paju hosts one of the largest free events for children and families this upcoming holiday. From musicals and performances catering to children to a bazaar, safety training and exhibitions, there is a lot to get involved in in a town usually a stop when people are heading up to the DMZ. Hours: 10am – 6pm Address: 148-53, Imjingak-ro, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do Directions: Sangam DMC Station (Seoul Subway Line 6) or Seoul Station (Line 1 & 4). Transfer to the Gyeongui Line.

Get off at Munsan Station.

Get the tour train towards Dorasan Mountain and get off at Imjingang River stop.

May 10, Carnation Flower Pots & Business Card Holder workshop

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

May 7 (and every Saturday), KISS Salsa Classes, 7.30pm-8.30pm (beginner), 8.30pm-9.30pm

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Center,16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, Sign up at ygvc0417@gmail.com

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Furry Felines are the Purr-fect Café Addition…

30 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Story by Naomi Blenkinsop Photos by Salgu Wissmath

eoul has established itself as a top player in the themed café circuit and one of the most successful gimmicks to evolve in recent years is the cat café. Cat cafes have been extremely successful among both tourists looking to spice up their travel itinerary and residents unable to have a pet in Seoul for any number of reasons. These days, it is easy to find a cat café on almost every major street in Seoul.

Almost anyone can adopt a few cats and open a furry establishment. That being said, not all cat cafes are alike and a few might not be up to snuff. So, do a little bit of research before running out to your nearest mom and pop cat café to find an afternoon cuppa with a difference. Here is a list of a few top notch cat cafes which have something different to offer the cat connoisseur.

Cat Café

Express o ne st any “Almo few opt a can ad en nd op cats a y a furr t. ” ishmen establ

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

CAT CAFES HAVE BEEN EXTREMELY SUCCESSFUL AMONG BOTH TOURISTS LOOKING TO SPICE UP THEIR TRAVEL ITINERARY AND RESIDENTS UNABLE TO HAVE A PET IN SEOUL FOR ANY NUMBER OF REASONS. Y Cat Café Hongdae Y Cat Café, formerly known as Gio Cat Café, opened back in 2006. Located ten minutes from Hongdae Station, right next to Hongdae Playground, this is a popular night destination for young people. After removing your shoes and sanitizing your hands, glance over at the cat café rules and menu displayed in both English and Korean for a very language friendly spot.

Y Cat Café is visually appealing with red, black and brick wall décor. Y also has an impressive and elaborate playground for the cats to play with the customers, exemplifying the trendy, stylish Hongdae vibe that is perfect for a younger crowd.

Menu options include tea and coffee, and also cold beverages for those upcoming summer days. The entrance fee is KRW 1,000 more expensive than the others, but the inclusive drink keeps the café on par with others.

The café ranks high in the cleanliness department with very little cat smell and the felines are very friendly, waiting to be fed from the small bowl of cat food available to buy.

Address: Cat Attic Gangnam, Seocho-gu, Seocho dae ro77 gil-9, 4F Station: Gangnam Station (Line 2, Exit 9) Cost: KRW 8,000 (including one drink) Directions: From Exit 9, walk straight toward Starbucks. Walk for a few blocks until you reach a big sign that says Cat Café on your left. Go to the fourth floor.

(If you walk past American Apparel, you’ve gone too far.)

Cat Playground Myeongdong Purr-fect for an afternoon out with friends or family, Cat Playground first opened in 2011 in the heart of Myeongdong and now has a second location in the area. Just like other cafes, shoes must be removed and hands sanitized before entering the Playground.

The Playground décor is anything but simple. Featuring more color with pictures of cats, teddy bears and dolls than other establishments, tables cater for larger groups of friends as well as smaller offerings for couples.

The Myeongdong branch is very kid-friendly, with many toys for the cats to play with and a few mini-playgrounds where the cats can play with the customers. The staff also sell small bowls of cat food to help entice the cats.

The small, simple menu offers average tasting beverages and each customer is given a large white bag to place their belongings in.

The Playground has fewer rules than other cafés, lending a more laid-back, hands-off vibe. Although the cats were not as social and affectionate as at the Attic, they were very beautiful and fun to take selfies with.

The café was very clean but unfortunately there was a stronger cat odor at the Cat Playground.

Nevertheless, this is a fun café that is great for kids and couples. And once the cat smell is under control, it will be a top-notch cat cafe.

Address: Myeongdong Cats’ Playground Myeongdong, 8-gil, 37-14, 3F Station: Myeongdong Station (Line 4, Exit 8) Cost: KRW 8,000 (including one drink) Directions: F rom Exit 8, turn left at the next street.

Keep walking until your reach Shinhan Bank. Turn left and on your right side you will notice a sign for the cat café.

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 31

Address: Y Cat Café, 3F 12-6, Wausan-ro 21-gil, Mapo-gu.

Station: Hongdae Station, (Line 2, Exit 9) Cost: KRW 9,000 (including one drink) Directions: From Exit 9, walk straight until you reach McDonalds. Turn left and walk straight until you reach the intersection in front of Honggik University. Turn right and walk straight until you reach Hongdae Playground. Walk down the street along the park and take the first right.

Cat’s Attic Café Gangnam The first Cat’s Attic Café opened in Myeongdong and now has nine locations from Seoul to Busan. Cat’s Attic Café has a very solid reputation as an all-around great option with the Gangnam location the most reputable of them all.

Upon entering Cat’s Attic, the décor is very simple, almost bare. Tables are partitioned along the wall and next to them are strategically-placed long, vertical towers and shelves for our feline friends to climb up and around. There is a huge open space in the middle which allows the customers and the cats to play together. Most of the cats are very social, friendly and affectionate as they come right up to the customers to play or take a nap on their laps.

Upon entering the Attic, you must remove your shoes and sanitize your hands.

Cleanliness is of utmost importance when visiting any cat café and the Attic pleasantly surprised me by how little cat smell there was. No need to worry about belongings either, as each customer is given the use of a drawer underneath their chair. The café also has their rules clearly listed in both English and Korean for a stress-free experience.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Ready to

32 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Story by: Liam Ring Photos by: RocknBows

wear

RocknBows brings the bow tie to the masses

hat do you get when you put three MBA students together with bags of Korean experience and a passion for music and the bow tie? When Paul Kuhlmeijer, Craig Marsden and Erik Dudziak found themselves sharing a classroom at Sejong University in the fall of 2014, they quickly found a shared excitement for classic rock and a type of neckwear that most metrosexual men might still consider quirky outside of formal occasions. Almost two years later, Rocknbows is ready to change

hearts, minds, and views on a form of sartorial elegance - once only the preserve of the Pee-wee Herman and the classroom’s Indiana Jones types.

Following a chance encounter with a visiting UK band, the notion of bringing the bow tie to casual clothing began to develop. Further investigation identified a niche market and the pooling of resources allowed the intrepid group to take the initial steps into design and production. Korea’s long history as a textile producer was a key player in the decision to enter the handmade arena, offering consumers a return to an era when

people purchased quality and eschewed the mass-produced, cheaply-made products that populate our market shelves. The place they found to manufacture their vision? The backstreets of Dongdaemun, which Craig describes as having a “wonderful, back to basics atmosphere” that allows for real quality to be created.

For those visiting Dongdaemun’s fabric markets and factories, an opportunity to encounter a truly “old-school” manufacturing vibe awaits. The initial wariness at meeting three lost-looking foreigners gave way to enthusiasm with Paul

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having several stories about vendors, despite being unable to help, guiding them on foot to someone who they think can. It’s a very close-knit community, where everyone tries to help everyone else. That is not to say it isn’t without its challenges, however, with some elements still requiring very hands-on involvement. “You might think,” muses Paul, “if you order a fabric from a wholesaler that they could have it delivered to a designer, which would then be handed onto the actual seamstress.” He continues that one would be wrong there, with the structure of the neighborhoods meaning that someone at RocknBows has to be involved in every step of the delivery and pick-up. In addition, some of the more complex product lines can be challenging to fully explain due to the language barrier and the availability of supplies. However, all things can be overcome, Erik insists. “All that is needed is a little bit of time and patience.”

Which brings us to the music, and what the merry band hopes gives them their USP. All three are massive fans of music – classic rock holding a particular, parent-influenced appeal – with Craig having even been signed to Warner Bros UK / Atlantic Records at one

to take their passion to the bow tie’s humbler everyday cousin. Continuing the rock and roll theme, there will be slim and medium sizes available plus, Paul promises, more universal colors available for everyday office wear. Increased sales on the peninsula are being mirrored in the UK and a push into the North American market is also in the pipeline. Brimming with ideas, Paul, Craig and Erik accept that some of the more unique challenges that their industry involves means not being able to commit to strict deadlines for their product. Nevertheless, taking each day, week and month as it

comes has given the founders a fresh outlook on their chosen business field and you get the feeling they wouldn’t want it any other way. After all, who doesn’t love wearing a good tie?

RocknBows bow ties range from $15 to $30 with ties available from $25 to $40. Free national and international shipping is available.

With thanks to Paul Kuhlmeijer, Craig Marsden, and Erik Dudziak for all their help on the piece.

Check out www.rocknbows.com for all your neck apparel needs.

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 33

time and now the drummer with Dongmyo Police Box. Each bow tie is inspired by great rock songs such as Elvis Presley’s “Blue Suede Shoes” and Eric Clapton’s “Cocaine.”

Trawling through Dongdaemun’s fabric markets for the right material, the group then works up a design that they feel encompasses the song as best they can. Taking the music angle a step further, the website also features a blog series entitled “Music Behind the Bow Ties” as well as articles on many other bowtie inspired thoughts. With a new product line – suitably monikered “Ties, Ties Ties!”

- out last month, the dynamic trio is about

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

rful, e d n o “w o back t basics e” pher atmos

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Kia Ora Korea

34 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Story by: Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by: Kiwi Chamber

The Kiwi Chamber Kiwi Chamber continues to go from strength to strength with newly appointed Chairman Dr. Tony Garrett voted into the position last October 2015. Six months into his tenure, Tony is optimistic about the future and is even more confident about what this year’s Kiwi Chamber events will bring.

The Chamber has many objectives but one particular aim stands out: communication.

Established to foster connections between New Zealand and Korea in all walks of life, the Kiwi Chamber has continued to succeed in their mission year after year. With keystone events including the annual wine festival and the Grand Hui, whether a New Zealand alumnus, Korean business partner or Kiwi friend, the chamber has all bases covered.

There is no denying that 2015 was a busy year for any New Zealander in Korea. The chairman refers to his predecessor Simon Walsh when remembering the feats of last year. Reflecting upon the Kiwi Chamber’s achievements with pride, it was a busy year for New Zealand with the Rugby World Cup, the Korea-New Zealand Free Trade Agreement (FTA) and the usual premiere events which kept the chamber constantly in the Korean community spotlight these last twelve months.

Fast forward to 2016, and a more relaxed approach to events are planned with the annual wine festival a fitting end to the forthcoming New Zealand Food Week taking place in late May. In addition to the Grand Hui in October, the Chamber has also been working on establishing further networking events to build relationships

Kiwi Chamber brings the best of New Zealand to the peninsula between New Zealanders and Koreans who have the country in common.

The Kiwi Chamber have also been firm supporters as the sister partner of a new independent organization, The Kiwi Alumni group which has been launched in the last year to help keep in contact those who have educational links to New Zealand – be it completing a degree or a short language course. Additionally, the Chamber also facilitate smaller Huis – or meetings – are arranged for members to attend and converse on Fridays, and Tony stresses that these are open events for all nationalities, bringing New Zealanders together with others.

The Kiwi Chamber also lends a helping hand in supporting two charities. Every April, the Kiwi Chamber joins other New Zealand and Australian businesses, individuals, Embassies and Korean War Veterans Associations in awarding scholarships to middle and high school students in Gapyeong where the two countries’ troops fought significant battles during the Korean War. These scholarships support the children's education through the payment of special fees, and the purchase of books, materials, uniforms and sports equipment. Their other main charity, Songjukwon, a female orphanage in Seoul, receives help and support from the Chamber and partner, the ANZ Bank, in fun days, educational talks and scholarship ventures.

Tony reiterates that this year will be an education for the Chamber as they establish and develop upon the initial FTA agreement from last year and also continue to promote their successful networking events and workshops like the Kiwi Chamber’s Friday meet-ups to assist, facilitate and support locals and their connections to New Zealand.

The Kiwi Chamber is welcome support for any individual, business or friend looking to create or maintain New Zealand and Korea relations. So come and enjoy the Kiwi spirit and enjoy the Kia Ora of the country right here in Korea.

For more Chamber News and Events: Kiwi Chamber: www.kiwichamber.com.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The New Zealand Wine Festival The Kiwi Chamber hosts their annual New Zealand Wine Festival in Seoul and Busan this May and June. The first of the events will take place at Park Hyatt Busan’s Grand Ballroom on May 28 and then reach Seoul on June 4 at the Waterfall Garden of the Grand Hyatt, Seoul.

The festival is one of the Kiwi Chamber’s long-established events, now entering its fourth year in Busan and an impressive eighth outing to the capital. This year’s event is even more special, marking the first festival since the Korea-New Zealand FTA came into effect in December 2015, bringing with it a removal of all tariffs on New Zealand wine.

Both New Zealand Wine Festivals will see more than 80 wines on offer for enthusiasts.

Bringing together both red and white wines from over 25 different participating vineyards, the celebration will provide guests with the Marlborough region’s Sauvignon Blanc, Hawke Bay’s Chardonnay and Martinborough’s Pinot Noir amongst others.

Wine lovers can also enjoy the different blends of New Zealand’s other distinctive grape-growing regions with choice tastings between finer vintages and newer offerings.

Billed as the Kiwi Chamber’s most popular annual event, the festival is open to both members and guests who would like to experience the best of New Zealand. Between the tastings of some top wines from the country, a complementing New Zealand-

themed BBQ buffet in Seoul (and tapas buffet in Busan) will also bring the tastes of the Land of the Long White Cloud to the festival.

Traditional dishes enjoyed in the outdoor party atmosphere will undoubtedly bring a slice of Kiwi party traditions to the peninsula.

As previous years, the festivals will hold an attractive raffle, with prizes including a generous return ticket to New Zealand (courtesy of Singapore Airlines), wine giveaways and many other prizes from the festival sponsors.

The New Zealand Wine Festival will be ending the preceding New Zealand Food Week taking place in each city prior to the event. Head to Busan or Seoul for a few hours of Kiwi culture and open your heart to the Land of the Long White Cloud.

More info: The New Zealand Wine Festival takes place in Busan and in Seoul.

Busan: May 28, 6.30pm-10.30pm. Grand Ballroom, Park Hyatt Hotel, Busan Seoul: June 4, 2pm-6pm. Waterfall Garden, Grand Hyatt Seoul.

Cost: KRW 80,000 (members) / KRW 100,000 (non-members) Website: www.kiwichamber.com Email: chamber@kiwichamber.com

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 35

New Zealand Food Week New Zealand Food Week, run by New Zealand Trade and Enterprise (NZTE), takes place at the end of May. A series of New Zealand targeted Food and Promotional initiatives promises to showcase some the country’s best food and beverages. More than 30 companies have been invited to exclusive trade exhibitions, networking events and business seminars to bring together a number of high-quality food and beverage producers, distributors and other professionals. NZTE’s Trade Commissioner Ryan Freer is excited to see the first New Zealand Food Connection events arrive post-FTA ratification in Seoul on May 24 and Busan on May 26. With seminars planned and the NZTE’s support on hand, the Food Week hopes to encapsulate the spirit of the recent trade agreement which promises to bring more New Zealand produce to Korea and vice versa. With tariffs removed from New Zealand wine at the end of last year and plans to bring more dairy produce from New Zealand into Korea, the food connection events can only provide healthy competition for more Kiwi goods to arrive on our supermarket shelves shortly. As Ryan comments, “I’m delighted that more and more Koreans, and Korea’s expat communities, are enjoying the best of New Zealand’s high quality food and beverage”. The NZTE’s New Zealand Food Week will conclude with the Wine Festivals in Busan in May and Seoul in June.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The Invisibility of Homeless Youth

AGIT’s Bus Program Brings Temporary Solace for Teens Story by: Celeste Maturen Photos by: AGIT

36 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

There are more than 200,000 runaway teens in Korea. that number seems outlandish to you, you’re not alone. Unlike the streets of New York and London, where the homeless are a common sight on many sidewalk corners, Korea’s known-homeless population seems confined to the sullied faces of elderly men gathered on the steps of Seoul Station and sleeping in the underpass of Gwanghwamun Square.

But Father Vincenzo Bordo knows otherwise, and the Women and Family Ministry of Korea agrees. They estimate the number of runaway teens in Korea to be around 250,000. That’s a quarter of a million

middle and high school aged kids lacking guidance and love, leaving them vulnerable to violence and exploitation — dim futures that Father Vincenzo is actively fighting against through his organization AGIT (A지 T or translated to the bus that cares for the children).

It’s important to define homelessness to understand how such an enormous number of Oliver Twists could go relatively unnoticed. Most do not lack shelter, but they are separated from their families and do not attend school. The Korean government recognized the growing runaway population

in 1994 with its establishment of 110 shelters to accommodate the projected influx. But the teens aren’t turning up.

Father Vincenzo believes today’s homeless youth are different from those of the past.

They are looking for more than just a roof and hot meals; they want freedom, money and more than anything, a future with less turmoil than their past. “A new need means we need to start a new way. We must create a bridge between runaways and society. That’s our aim at AGIT.” Father Vincenzo believes that most runaway teens group together and live in shared rooms,

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

THE KOREAN GOVERNMENT RECOGNIZED THE GROWING RUNAWAY POPULATION IN 1994 WITH ITS ESTABLISHMENT OF 110 SHELTERS TO ACCOMMODATE THE PROJECTED INFLUX. BUT THE TEENS AREN’T TURNING UP. For nearly a quarter of a century, Father Vincenzo has been helping the poor and homeless in Korea. He started up the House of Peace (a soup kitchen for poor elderly people) and a study room for poor kids in 1994 before opening Anna’s House (안나의 집), a venue serving daily hot dinners to more than 500 people and offering them services like haircuts, medical care, and legal and employment assistance. From within Anna’s house, Father Vincenzo leads the program E.V.E (Ego-esteem, Vision, Empowering) for homeless teens. The program provides housing for a period of at least nine months while the teens attend counseling and catch up on schooling. Since its start, 160 kids every year have gone through the program. And now, AGIT will play a role in bringing new teens to E.V.E. Each month, AGIT sees between 200 to 300 at-risk teens. When they hit rock bottom, they

call AGIT. That’s why, rain, shine, snow or typhoons, the AGIT van is always right where it promises to be. Father Vincenzo and his volunteers refuse to abandon these kids like so many others have. The organization has relied on its initial supporter, the Australia New Zealand Association of Korea (ANZA Korea) for a never certain flow of donations.

Nonetheless, Father Vincenzo refuses to let these kids down. “His heart has been aching for these kids since he first came to Korea,” says Lisa. “He didn’t just start caring last year, his heart has been after these kids for two decades.” For Father Vincenzo, every human being needs to be accepted, loved and helped, whatever their background.

More info: If you’re interested in supporting AGIT please visit their website www.annahouse.or.kr and donate through the PayPal link.

Facebook: facebook.com/vincenzo.bordo.16

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 37

which often exposes young teens to sexual relationships, unhealthy power dynamics and complex emotions before they’re ready.

But the upside is that word about AGIT has gotten out through the grapevine to those in need.

Since its start in March of 2015, an AGIT bus operates three nights a week, returning each week to the same locations. Father Vincenzo, a trained social worker together with a handful of volunteers travel together and park the colorful bus along main boulevards southeast of Seoul. They then set up a tent, a small table and a few chairs, ready to hand out food, treats and first aid kits to teens that approach them. Each item is labeled with AGIT contact information.

These small hand-outs make a profound difference according to Lisa, a KoreanAmerican teacher who volunteers for the organization. “In Korean, I tell them ‘take this chocolate bar. If you have a friend who is in trouble, give it to them, they can call us.” And they do. The phone calls never fail to flood in, even after nights that seem slow. “A lot of teens are afraid to come up to me because I look Korean, I look like their mother.” says Lisa.

“Or they’re afraid that I’ll tell their parents.” So gaining their trust, which is AGIT’s first step in helping these teens, is proving to be difficult.

Always trying new things to reach runaway teens, Father Vincenzo brought a group of Italian friends with him to the AGIT tent one evening. The effect was astounding. “The kids were super curious why foreigners were there.

They came up to meet them.” says Lisa. “They approach foreigners more easily because for one, they know that the foreigners will never know anyone in their Korean community.”

After Father Vincenzo caught on, foreigners like volunteer Agnes Schuppel became an essential component to attract more kids in need. “One night, I went with Father Vincenzo into the deeper areas behind the local station.

Kids were hanging out on the streets and in small parks.” says Schuppel. “Later, a child did come down to the tent because he was curious about the foreigners.” When the teens come, the volunteers shower them with love in the form of fun games, food and on cold winter nights, warmth from the heaters in the tent.

But at 1 o’clock in the morning, the volunteers have to pack up the van and head back home.

And the teens head to wherever they’re calling home that night.

AGIT hopes that these positive interactions with caring adults will build confidence and eventually allow AGIT to help them find a safe shelter, get the medical care they need at a hospital, or even go back home. As Father Vincenzo says, “If we’re not there, what happens to them?”

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

THE CAMARATA MUSIC COMPANY

How the Camarata Music Comapany is building a community through music

38 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Story by Anita McKay Photos by The Camarata Music Company, Blair Kitchener

Camarata Music Company (CMC) hasn’t even been around for a decade, yet its influence is felt throughout Seoul and South Korea. Led by Dr Ryan Goessl, Executive Artistic Director and Conductor of the Choirs and Orchestra, the CMC’s numerous performances throughout the year are a regular fixture on the Seoul art scene.

The company’s two main events – the spring concert (Mozart Requiem, which takes place on May 7) and the annual Christmas performance of Handel’s Messiah – regularly sell-out.

They have performed at the Blue House for former President Lee Myung-bak, and several ambassadors to South Korea regularly attend their shows. On top of all this, they also perform

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ON TOP OF ALL THIS, THEY ALSO PERFORM AT VARIOUS HOSPITALS AND LOCAL NGOS SEVERAL TIMES A YEAR. connection that the company now boasts no less than 15 marriages — a number that is sure to impress any dating agency.

As with many organizations set up in an expat hotspot, people come and go. Rather than see this as a disadvantage, the CMC views it as an opportunity to expand the company’s reach.

“If we look at how the world has globalized and how people are flying apart, we need organizations like Camarata. Obviously, the art and music is central but I think the mission and message go beyond that,” Dr Ogan Gurel,

President of the Board of the Camarata Music Company explains. And that message is simple: creating global communities together through the universal language of music.

Building on the diversity of its members, the CMC plans to do just that: globalize.

“We want to bring everybody together in one common mission to make great music and to let anybody do that,” Dr Goessl says. “We want to work on these goals in the next few years, to globalize the Camarata Music Company. Even though our home is in Korea, we want to make it a kind of globalized organization.”

More info: Mozart Requiem takes place on May 7 at Chungdong First Methodist Church. Tickets are KRW 20,000 in advance or KRW 30,000 at the door.

For more information, visit www.camaratamusic.com or contact info@camaratamusic.com Camarata Musical Theater will perform Oklahoma! on May 28 - 29 and June 4 - 5 at Seoul Jazz Academy.

Tickets are KRW 20,000 in advance or KRW 30,000 at the door.

For more information visit tickets.camaratamusic.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/CamarataMusic Website: www.café.naver.com/camarata LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/company/camarata-music-company

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 39

at various hospitals and local NGOs several times a year.

In the Camarata’s seven short years, the music company has grown beyond Dr Goessl’s expectations. With a small studio space near Noksapyeong Station, the Camarata Music Company has had over 5,000 active participants from 70 countries since its inception.

Despite its rapid growth, starting a music company was not an original goal. “I realized there weren’t many opportunities for expats to perform here in Korea. At first, I was trying to find three or four people to get together to sing Christmas carols,” Dr Goessl explains. “I put a post on Dave’s ESL Café and on Facebook hoping to find some people and we had about 50 people email us.” Overwhelmed by the response, Dr Goessl decided to sing more than just a few festive songs and put together a full performance instead. Consequently, the show’s success marked the beginning of the Camarata Music Company.

“I think we filled a niche; something that was missing in the community,” he says.

The Camarata Music Company has three choirs – the amateur Camarata Chorale, which puts on three major performances each year, two with an orchestra and a Pops concert in September; the semi-professional Chamber Singers, which performs regularly throughout the year; and a Children’s Choir – in addition to a professional orchestra. There is also another branch to the organization, the Camarata Musical Theater, which puts on musical performances every summer. While the Chamber Singers is audition only, the Chorale is open to anyone, regardless of their singing experience.

“I accept everyone,” Dr Goessl says. “We are trying to expose everybody to the joys and wonders of classical music and that is why we accept everyone.” Dr Goessl, who is also a voice instructor, says he has never had a student who has not improved. For him, helping people to understand and experience music in a new way is an exciting challenge.

“One of the things I pride myself on is how about one fourth of our choir music can’t even read music, and I pride myself on that because there’s very few choirs that will accept choir members that can’t read music. I love that. I love to introduce new people to an art from that they’ve never experienced before,” he says.

While making music is what the CMC does, creating a community through music has become its mission.

“A lot of people say, ‘Welcome to the family’ when they join the choir because in many ways it is family-like. We watch out for each other and we help each other and it’s a real close connection that you don’t get to experience very often,” Dr Goessl says. So intense is this

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Music Festival With Greenplugged Seoul combines environmental awareness and good music for a unique springtime music fest experience.

40 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Story by Emma Kalka Photos by Greenplugged Seoul

the organizers of Greenplugged Seoul (GPS), it was always about more than just the music. Held in a park in Seoul in late spring every year, the festival strives to be as “green” as possible - on top of putting together two days of top-notch Korean music.

From giving discounts on beer to festival goers who use their own water bottles instead of disposable cups, to booth after booth of ecofriendly shoes, bags and clothing, GPS has always worked hard to create a unique festival experience for everyone.

And now in its seventh year, the festival is not stepping away from this theme.

Started under the motto “a good idea and small practice for a better tomorrow,” and boasting a

rather large lineup, the festival prides itself on providing an outdoor music experience at Nanji Hangang Park where attendees can enjoy music

and a picnic with their friends, family or loved ones in a natural setting with downtown Seoul as the backdrop.

May Film Phantom Detective – aka Detective Hong Gil-dong: The Disappeared Village Check general Listings, General release Around Korea

May 5 Film My New Sassy Girl

Check general Listings, General release Around Korea

May 7 Music Camarata Music: Mozart Requiem 7pm, KRW 20,000 - KRW 30,000, Chungdong First Methodist Church, www.camaratamusic.com

Until May 8 Exhibition Monet’s Impressionism Exhibition

10am-6pm (closed Mondays), KRW 15,000 (adults), KRW 10,000 (age 7-18), KRW 8,000 (age 5-6), The War Memorial of Korea

May 7-14 Festival The Green Film Festival

Gwanghwamun - Cinecube, INDIESPACE, Seoul Museum of History: www.gffis.org/

May 12 Film Goksung (The Wailing) Check general Listings, General release Around Korea

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

May 14-15 Festival Beautiful Mint Life Festival

All day, KRW 85,000- KRW 135,000, Olympic Park

May 21-22 Festival Greenplugged

All Day, KRW 77,000 one day ticket, KRW 119,000 two day ticket, Nanji Hangang Park

May 26-28 Festival The Seoul Food Film Festival

ARTNINE Cinema, Megabox cinema, Isu: www.sifff.kr

May 28-29 / Jun 4-5 Music Camarata Musical theater: Oklahoma!

TBC, KRW 20,000- KRW 30,000, Seoul Jazz Academy, www.camaratamusic.com

May 28-29 Festival Seoul Jazz Festival

All Day, KRW 245,000 two day ticket, Olympic Park, Seoul Jazz Festival, All Day, KRW 245,000 two day ticket, Olympic Park

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 41

Emma Kalka is a freelance writer who runs the blog “Discovering the Korean Underground” on Tumblr, which focuses on the Korean underground hip-hop scene.

TBC, KRW 6,000-KRW 12,000, Check website for details, eng.jiff.or.kr

ENTERTAINMENT

“This year, Greenplugged place for the audience to Seoul kicks off its seventh ultimately find “comfort edition and is creating a and hope through music” unique atmosphere with during a time of national its lush green approach mourning, according to that is enriched by the GPS website. providing a wide range of Even heavy rain content in other areas - not couldn’t stop GPS in only in the large amount 2013, when it sold out of stage performances,” all available tickets for proclaims the festival. the first time ever. In On top of the seven fact, the festival stated it stages of music that will was the rain that made run over two days on May the event that year so 21 and May 22, there will memorable, with staff be a variety of food and working quickly to set up beverage stalls alongside tents and artists, such as a Green Market and other booths providing headliners YB and Clazziquai, lending a helping information on various environmental hand by putting on “passionate” performances campaigns as well as products for sale that that made the crowds stay longer, even though were created through environmentally friendly they were getting drenched. means.

In 2011, the festival moved to its current Other attractions at the park include Eco home at Nanji Hangang Park for the first time, Camping on the Nanji Baseball Field, which providing memorable performances from No will accommodate up to 970 people. Campers Brain, Jaurim and perhaps most unforgettably, can enjoy swimming and barbeque facilities a giant sing-along of “Itaewon Freedom” during overlooking the river while surrounded by the set put on by music duo UV. grasslands and the waterfront. On top of that, But it was the first festival in 2010 that created there is a bike park with a course for cyclists and the legacy of Greenplugged. The festival took stroller and wheelchair rentals available. place on the restored Nanji Landfill, which had And keeping in tune with its eco-friendly deep and meaningful connotations considering image, the GPS organizers ask that all attendees its emphasis on being a green festival. With just help keep the park clean five stages at the time, during the festival by the festival brought in 110 THIS YEAR, GREENPLUGGED properly disposing of all acts and attracted many SEOUL KICKS OFF ITS SEVENTH trash – including sorting attendees, despite the rain EDITION AND IS CREATING A UNIQUE recyclables – in the ATMOSPHERE WITH ITS LUSH GREEN on the second day, setting APPROACH THAT IS ENRICHED provided bins. They stress a precedent for all urban

BY PROVIDING A WIDE RANGE OF that festival goers should music festivals to come CONTENT IN OTHER AREAS, NOT please clean up after after.

ONLY IN THE LARGE AMOUNT OF themselves before leaving.

This year’s festival STAGE PERFORMANCES. – GPS 2016 is looking to continue “Nanji Hangang Park is PRESS RELEASE the property of us all,” the that legacy through its festival website reminds us. impressive lineup as well Gracing the stages of the festival this year as reminding people of the importance of the are more than 90 teams from various music environment and keeping it “green.” A muchscenes, and not just indie rock. Main headliners needed lesson for today. announced include veteran bands No Brain and Crying Nut, 3rd Line Butterfly, Galaxy Express, Gukkasten, Sultans of the Disco and More Info: Event: Greenplugged Seoul 2016 many more. From the hip-hop scene, top label When: May 21-22, 2016 Illionaire will bring artists Dok2, Beenzino and Where: Nanji Hangang Park Tickets: Interpark and Yes24 (until May 20) KRW 119,000 The Quiett, and Loco and Gray from AOMG (two days), KRW 77,000 (one day). KRW 88,000 (onewill also perform, as well as Seo Samuel and the day tickets after May 20), Discounts for children, senior citizens and the disabled are available.

Geeks.

Website: www.gpsfestival.com Greenplugged has had a long history in Seoul. Facebook: www.facebook.com/ GREENPLUGGEDfestival.

Starting in 2010, it has been held every spring Transport: Mapo-gu-chon Station (Line 6; 20 minute without delay (except for 2014 when it was walk) or World Cup Stadium Station (Line 6; 30 minute postponed to June due to the Sewol disaster). walk).

Free shuttle buses available from Hapjeong Station Even still, the festival – then celebrating its (Line 2, Exit 7), running from 9.30am to 11.30pm at 5 to fifth anniversary – continued, providing a 10 minute intervals.

Apr 28-May 7 Festival Jeonju International Film Festival

42 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

This tion, c s fa inaeves, i l e he b f rom comes er ms “a t e h to what desire simple in music expressauty that the be an see we c nd arou us.”

Tales From The Woodland

IRISH COMPOSER NICK ROTH SEEKS INSPIRATION IN A MYRIAD OF EXPRESSIONS

Story by Liam Ring Photos by nickrothmusic.com, Frances Marshall and Mick Quinn

ENTERTAINMENT

believes that music can overcome all political and economic divisions that cleave people apart. In a world riven with conflict (and Ukraine is nothing if not an example of that), the album dedicates itself “to all those who pray for rain.”

So much traveling and performing means that finding the time to immerse himself completely in the writing process can be a challenge for Roth. But with so many ideas - great and small - to bring to fruition, he shows little sign of stopping. Plans to compose a large-scale work based on French philosopher Michel Serres’s book Genesis will involve a large ensemble of musicians and painters.

On a smaller scale, a solo cello piece based on orchids and completed in collaboration with a photographer and olfactory artist is also in the works. Generating ideas are not a problem for the composer; time is his primary obstacle, quelling an ambition that seeks to push the experimental boundaries of music in conjunction with all of our other senses.

Roth sees all manner of sound as material for creating unique music, and delights in working with “surprising combinations to contrast or highlight certain aspects in one another.”

No doubt life on the road, in the studio or in the great outdoors all hold plenty of opportunities for Roth.

Website: www.nickrothmusic.com Twitter: @Kaiameye

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 43

More Info: Nick Roth Nick Roth was in Seoul to perform the World Premier of Seed II at the Maison Pernod Ricard in conjunction with the Embassy of Ireland. Yurodny’s latest album Haivka was released in April and is available through …

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

pending time with Irish composer as a whole. This fascination, he Nick Roth allows you to meet a believes, comes from what he terms man who wears his musical, as “a simple desire to express in political, and environmental music the beauty that we can see beliefs on his sleeve. Deeply influenced by the around us.”

Ingrained in this desire are forests and fields near his home - a home his family were forced to sell in 2013 - he has since projects such as the Little Woodland sought to expand musically beyond his love Heights and Seed I and Seed II affair with nature. A talented saxophonist, Roth pieces which flowered from Roth’s endeavours to go far beyond the music itself. experiences as an educator. With Whether “a text, an image, a scientific concept, the goal of introducing the link a person,” it is through his music that he seeks between natural beauty, dreams to engage with everything around him - from and music to children, the project a political movement to the flocking of birds to has brought youngsters into closer contact with forests and encouraged a tree in a forest.

Taking initial musical inspiration from his them to try and write music mother Joy, Roth has always been immersed in based upon their experiences. music. While those first steps might have been Having been brought up close to taken to his mother’s jazz big band (and to what a forest himself, Roth hoped to he as a toddler heard as “the loudest sound in give children the opportunity to the world”), the composer and saxophonist has experience “at least a small taste worked tirelessly to bring a disparate range of of the childhood experiences that instruments, musical genres, and influences I was lucky enough to have growing up.” It also into his work. Roth explains his attraction to - given Roth’s family had recently had to sell the saxophone as a young child, reminiscing in the home he grew up in to a builder - gave the the echo of his running steps across the Baptist composer the chance to (in some way) come to Church that his mother’s band used to rehearse terms with the loss the family had experienced. in toward “the shiny one in the front” that “In the end, it was not really losing the house caught his eye. Now the musician is a regular that was so hard. It was more losing access to winner at the Guinness Cork Jazz Festival, has the forest and knowing that we were not able had the chance to work as a composer and to protect it anymore.” The project seeks to an artist in residence in both Europe and the increase children’s awareness of ecology and the importance of forests for Americas in recent years, and all. The planet, he assures has performed extensively IN A WORLD RIVEN us, has “myriad forms of across three continents.

WITH CONFLICT (AND While a fan of all instruments UKRAINE IS NOTHING IF NOT expression,” and bringing - and indeed sounds far beyond AN EXAMPLE OF THAT), THE people closer to nature is traditional musicology - he ALBUM DEDICATES ITSELF one way in which natural feels his experiences playing “TO ALL THOSE WHO PRAY beauty can be both preserved and represented in different in saxophone ensembles have FOR RAIN.” artistic forms. offered unique opportunities This belief regarding new musical for the composer. In his own compositions for saxophone, string and recorder, he has boundaries has been carried into his record recognized the wide range and unified label Diatribe, which aims to showcase music sonic profile that these instrumental family “breaking new ground within its genre whilst groups offer. Referring to his first musical [also expressing] as wide a diversity of styles love, “you can really hear and understand in as possible.” Perhaps a prime example of a very instinctual way where all of the other this is in his ensemble, Yurodny’s latest work saxophonists are at all times…. this can give Haivka, blending at times an almost breakneck pacing with traditional Ukrainian vocals and a real unity to the overall music.”

Moving into more experimental locales, Roth slower, more sombre, and searching pieces. has reconnected with his earlier experiences at Recorded over a period of great political his childhood home of Woodland Heights in upheaval in the former Soviet republic, the Chorleywood. The artist has had an amazing additional guest musicians from Ukraine opportunity to combine his musical influences add a definite undercurrent of pathos to the with his outside interests, which has been overall album, while still seeking to show translated to his musical oeuvre. A massive how even through its recording, it can influence has been Japanese composer present music as a unifying, nourishing Mamoru Fujieda, and Roth has spent much experience. Roth sees music of the past two years exploring and applying as inhabiting a “world without Fujieda’s conceptual work to his understanding borders” and, using the analogy of of forest canopy ecology, botany, and ecology a storm or a river rushing onwards,

K–FILM: THREE BY… RETURN

The big stars return to the big screen in May’s K-Films

44 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos courtesy of HanCinema

fter what has been quite a Hollywood-dominated – and perhaps a shaky start - for K-cinema in 2016, things look set to dramatically change with the arrival of three highprofile titles. Focusing on the return of big-screen names, hugely anticipated thriller Goksung looks set to revitalise Korean cinema’s standing with the return of genre maestro Na Hong-jin. In other releases, the sequel My New Sassy Girl is a second instalment building upon the story of the much beloved first film, and Phantom Detective sees the return of enduring Korean icon Hong Gil-dong. There is much to look forward to for K-film fans in May.

PHANTOM DETECTIVE

AKA DETECTIVE HONG GIL-DONG: THE DISAPPEARED VILLAGE

RELEASE DATE: May DIRECTED BY: Jo Sung-hee STARRING: Lee Je-hoon, Go A-ra DISTRIBUTED BY: CJ Entertainment to provide for the poor. With this latest incarnation, the character has been revised as a 1940s-era private investigator who becomes embroiled in a tough case.

The film is directed by Jo Sung-hee, and much like his prior film A Werewolf Boy, the visuals are highly stylised. This time however, he has exchanged the Korean countryside for pulp noir, and it looks to be a particularly unique offering in K-cinema.

DID YOU KNOW? Phantom Detective stars popular actor Lee Je-hoon in his first film role following completion of his compulsory military service.

GOKSUNG

AKA THE WAILING

RELEASE DATE: May 12 DIRECTED BY: Na Hong-jin STARRING: Hwang Jung-min, Kwak Do-won, Chun Woo-hee DISTRIBUTED BY: 20th Century Fox

ENTERTAINMENT

Hong Gil-dong is a legendary detective with an extraordinary memory. His high success rate in solving crimes has created powerful enemies. Yet in his latest case involving two children, Hong finds it may result in an investigation far bigger than he ever imagined.

Phantom Detective is based on the classic Korean character Hong Gil-dong who, much like Robin Hood, stole from the rich

When a stranger arrives in a small Na has established himself as countryside village in Goksung a master of the thriller genre with County, macabre events begin to prior hits The Chaser and The Yellow occur and rumors quickly begin Sea, exciting fans both Korean and to spread. Police officer Jong- international in this eagerly awaited goo is called in to investigate the release. mysterious crimes, but as the bizarre A stellar cast has been selected for deeds continue to unfold, he finds the high-profile thriller, featuring himself out of his depth, and calls in Hwang Jung-min ( Veteran, The a shaman for aid.

Himalayas), Kwak Do-won (The Attorney, Nameless Gangster) and Goksung - also known as The Wailing - is director Na Hong-jin’s Chun Woo-hee (Beauty Inside, highly anticipated return to cinema Han Gong-ju) in the lead roles, screens following a six-year hiatus. virtually guaranteeing high-quality Though only his third film, director performances.

DID YOU KNOW? Director Na Hong-jin helmed the enormously popular and

critically acclaimed thriller The Chaser back in 2008, featuring Ha Jong-woo in a break role as a deranged serial killer. Perhaps even more disturbing is that the film was based on a true story.

MY NEW SASSY GIRL RELEASE DATE: May 5 DIRECTED BY: Jo Geun-sik STARRING: Cha Tae-hyun, Victoria DISTRIBUTED BY: Little Big Pictures A co-production between Korea and China, My New Sassy Girl looks set to be the hit romantic-comedy of the month. The international couple angle adds a refreshing dimension to the concept, particularly as the original film is considered an untouchable K-cinema classic.

The film will be director Jo Geun-sik’s return to the silver screen following a 10-year absence after his romantic-

drama Once in a Summer, starring Lee Byung-hyun and Soo-ae.

DID YOU KNOW? The “Sassy Girl” in the film is played

by Victoria Song from K-pop girl group f(x). While she has acted previously, My New Sassy Girl will be her first lead role in a big commercial film.

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 45

Following the events of the original My Sassy Girl, Gyun Woo finds himself alone and inconsolable until a chance meeting reunites him with his first love from elementary school - a Chinese student whom he teased for speaking broken Korean. Now together again and with love blooming, the couple decide to marry despite opposition. However, can Gyun Woo handle just how sassy she is?

FILM FESTIVALS OF SPRING

46 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Here’s our Film Festival round-up for the exciting season ahead

Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos by T he Green Film Festival in Seoul, The Seoul Food Film Festival, Seoul International Women’s Festival, Shutterstock

arrival of spring means that it’s time for cinema fans to get excited once more as film festivals across Korea begin to gear up for their latest editions. Korea has an incredibly large number of film festivals celebrating the various dimensions of cinema - so much so that it can be hard to keep track of the genres they embrace and when they occur. As such, here’s a preview of the big film festivals due to take place in Seoul over the course of the next month.

The Mise-en-scène Short Film Festival The Mise-en-scène Short Film Festival (MSFF) is also due to take place at ARTNINE and Megabox cinemas in Isu, entering its 15th edition of celebrating short films produced by Korean filmmakers. Entries are categorised according to themes and genres. Different categories include A City of Sadness Comments on Society, A Short Film about Love - Focus on Relationships, The King of Comedy, The Extreme Nightmare - World of Horror & Fantasy, The 40,000 Blows - Action & Thriller on Mean Streets, and new program Sixth Sense, which will feature content that defies easy categorisation. Check the website closer to the festival to see which films have been selected for this year’s event.

Dates: June 23-27, 2016 Location: Isu - ARTNINE cinema, Megabox cinema Transport: Isu Station (Line 4 and Line 7) Website: www.msff.or.kr

The Green Film Festival in Seoul Running from May 7-14, Green Film Festival In Seoul (GFFIS) has regularly been screening content concerned with environmental matters from around the globe. Now in its 13th year, the festival includes fictional and documentary films that examine climate change, environmental destruction, animal rights abuse, and poverty, among many other green-related issues. GFFIS will open with controversial filmmaker Michael Moore’s documentary Where to Invade Next, which explores the range of socio-cultural and economic factors that divide the USA from the rest of the world.

Dates: May 7-14, 2016 Location: Gwanghwamun - Cinecube, INDIESPACE, Seoul Museum of History Transport: Gwanghwamun Station (Line 5) Website: www.gffis.org

The Seoul Food Film Festival Still a relatively young cinematic event, the Seoul Food Film Festival enters its second edition of stories celebrating culinary delights. Taking place over six days from May 26-31 at Megabox COEX cinema (close to Isu Station), the festival screens both documentaries and fiction films focusing on delectable treats, as well as hosting cooking and tasting events on the lovely open-plan balcony. The Seoul Food Film Festival is an absolute must for foodies and gourmet fans.

Dates: May 26-31, 2016 Location: Isu - Megabox COEX cinema Transport: Isu Station (Line 4 and Line 7) Website: www.sifff.kr

Seoul International Women’s Film Festival Now in its 18th year, Seoul International Women’s Film Festival (SIWFF) is a fantastic cinematic event that explores women’s issues and feminist perspectives from all around the world. With women’s roles and stories in cinema still in a frustrating minority, SIWFF seeks to address the balance by supporting female filmmakers and providing a platform to view their work across the seven-day extravaganza. SIWFF takes place fittingly at the Megabox venue next to Ehwa Women’s University in Sinchon, and also provides outdoor events and kiosks for cinemagoers.

Dates: June 2-8, 2016 Location: Sinchon - Megabox cinema Transport: Sinchon Station (Line 2) Website: ww.siwff.or.kr/siwff2015/eng

This is the place where you can experience Korean culture and get information about travelling in Seoul.

WEEKEND DIY

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K-POP DANCE CLASS

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Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center

10 min. walk

OPENING HOURS 10:30am - 7:30pm open everyday except New Year’s Day & Chuseok

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TEL 02.3789.7961

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6

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5 min. walk

5 min. walk

ADDRESS 5th FL, M-Plaza, 27 Myeong-dong 8-gil, Junggu, Seoul

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Myeong-dong Station

Podding All Over Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

The G1PDCST offers a different take on the Korea experience Story by Liam Ring Photos by Ji Mizell

a chilly afternoon near Anguk Station and a small yet determined group are stamping their feet and rubbing their hands together as they wait for a straggler. Recording equipment, cameras, (and even in these so modern of times) pens and paper are all stowed away for a journey of discovery into one of Korea’s better known – even infamous for some – libations. Among these adventurers is podcaster, associate producer and Koreascape reporter and guest host GP, who will be joining Veronica from Gastro Tour Seoul on a brewmasters tour. The last person finally arrives and they are off. The time is now. The mission is soju.

48 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

California native GP’s somewhat circuitous route from the EFL classroom to the TBS studio would never have gotten off the ground had a previous employer in Ulsan not made the decision to downsize. It left the San Josean considering his stalled career as a hagwon legend, and pondering the bright lights, big city vibe of Seoul. “I assumed,” he remembers thinking, “that I might find new ways to challenge myself and new hobbies to pursue.” A serendipitously discovered guest spot on a radio music show followed, and a podcasting / writing / hosting / associate producer was born. Legend status may still prove elusive, but if unique, discussionprovoking content is what you strive for, the g1pdcst will steer you right.

However, this evening’s goal isn’t just any, regular, green-bottled type of soju that goes well with sangyeopsal. The history of homebrew in Korea is a long and varied one, and by the end of this evening in northern Seoul, GP and

Town

his listeners will have discovered plenty about what goes into a different type of liquor. This latest podcast is part of a range of episodes about the less well-known parts of Korean culture, parts that few expatriates would even consider. GP himself admits that he had never encountered this type of soju in his six plus years in the country. The route from the station to the brewery brings those thirsty for knowledge through sections of the old city that prepares everyone for an evening steeped in tradition.

Upon finally reaching the destination, all are immediately hit by the fragrant, pleasant aroma of … well… soju. But promising a taste experience quite unlike what is summoned by the aroma that usually hits you in a Line 1 train carriage on a Saturday after a day’s hiking has finished.

GP initially started the podcast in order to prevent his live radio abilities from fading when he wasn’t behind the microphone. Considering that very first episode, he can see how things have changed as he has become more adept with the myriad skills required to bring a successful podcast to the airwaves. “If you listen to each [episode],” he promises, “the growth is tangible.”

Since those early steps, he has chaired a panel discussion on sex in Korea (with a follow-up planned for the coming months), interviewed a K-Pop songwriter about existing in the belly of the beast, and even fed the impoverished elderly.

The plight of Seoul’s older residents proved a massive eye-opener for the Californian. Known as the forgotten generation, an evening spent interacting with them and hearing their stories left little doubt as to what people mean by first world problems. “It isn’t at all a revelation to say

SINCE THOSE EARLY STEPS, HE HAS CHAIRED A PANEL DISCUSSION ON SEX IN KOREA (WITH A FOLLOW-UP PLANNED FOR THE COMING MONTHS), INTERVIEWED A K-POP SONGWRITER ABOUT EXISTING IN THE BELLY OF THE BEAST, AND EVEN FED THE IMPOVERISHED ELDERLY.

that most Western expats are very fortunate, but it’s never been laid bare to me with such brutal contrast.”

Looking ahead, GP feels that the podcast offers him the freedom to address issues not possible on traditional radio, and has finally developed his podcast into a bi-monthly edition “created specifically for the Korean expat.” The wheels never stop turning for him, and he often finds himself awake in the middle of the night jotting down ideas for future episodes. “There is,” he insists, “nothing I’ve deemed undoable.”

Words of wisdom for any wannabe podders?

GP believes that anyone can podcast. No expensive equipment, software, soundproofing or excuses is needed. “The first step,” to crib from former Fresh Prince Will Smith, “is you have to say that you can” and the message and the courage to publish is everything.

“Remember,” enthuses GP, “nobody starts perfect, and nobody ends that way either.”

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 49

Check out: www.soundcloud.com/g1pdcst for more of GP’s Korean adventures.

Head to www.gastrotourseoul.com to find out more on Seoul’s wonderful eats and drinks

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Perhaps surprisingly, the technical side of recording a podcast is among the easier things to do. One challenge that GP has found is in a remaining stigma behind the podcast concept

There is of course much more to the podcast than just a wonderful evening with Gastro Tours, with tons of research into both the history and modern place soju has taken in society. The podcast’s journey will ultimately be spliced with sections explaining the history of the product, voxopops on pricing and expert interviews – with a soju brewer living and working in New York. You can even find out why soju is so often

found in green bottles. All done with a wry sense of humor.

ENTERTAINMENT

After meeting the brewmaster – a designated national treasure from the Seoul metropolitan government – the ingredients and process are explained in detail. Cultural experiences are discussed and the effort and time required to make traditional soju is gone into in great detail. Comparisons with makgeolli (the drink of the people) and regular soju are made and the difficulties of producing such soju is discussed.

It’s an enjoyable, cultural and informationfuelled evening, topped off with sampling a sweet beverage which tops the 40% alcohol mark. Ouch!

itself. “There’s a hesitation that my content won’t be worth their [the listeners] time.” Also, the very egalitarian nature of podcasting means that with so many choices, how is a listener to know which podcasts are really worth listening to. With so many content creators in Seoul, “people assume you’re only as good as the next one.” On this, he assures me, “they’re dead wrong.” Language can also be a factor, with many Koreans still shy about speaking English, thus a lot of thoughtprovoking insights are lost to the expatriate audience.

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

I HOPE I CAN INSPIRE OTHER WRITERS TO FEATURE KOREA IN THEIR FICTION, TO BE BRAVE AND NOT JUST WRITE ABOUT THEIR OWN LIVES AS AN ALIEN, BUT TO ACTUALLY WRITE ABOUT THE PEOPLE AROUND THEM

A Writer’s Progress Giacomo Lee discusses what brought him to Soobin Shin and Funereal

50 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Story by Giacomo Lee Photos by Steve Smith

iacomo Lee is the author behind Funereal, one of the first Western novels about modern Korea and its people today. Released on Signal 8 Press, the biggest independent publisher of English language books in East Asia, the novel takes a strange and darkly comic look at Korea’s new and unique practice of fake funerals for the living.

Follow Lee as he looks back on the writing of Funereal, and his life following the book’s release.

London, west side. 2012.

It was by Hammersmith Bridge where inspiration hit me. There, overlooking the River Thames, I came up with the story of a woman called Soobin who holds fake funerals for the depressed and - spoiler alert! - winds up with a dead body on her hands.

The idea played on my mind for a while, and I finished the first draft in six months or so. Living in a capital city, it wasn't

too hard to imagine life in the metropolis of Seoul. I'd been there before, but, still, what I was writing at home always felt like a 2D representation of Korea. I imagined its capital as a mix between a commuter's city and where gangsters roam on motorbikes, and cult recruiters tread the streets. The exotic was drowning out the more realistic parts of my book. The stuff of movies I'd seen in London's independent cinemas was leaking onto the page.

Something had to give.

Seoul, north of the Han River. 2013.

Fast forward a year, and the realism's hit me hard. I'm living in Korea, stuck by a far-out station connected to the infamous Line 1 – the preferred travel route of choice for all the elders and outcasts of the city. This leaks onto the page, and no matter how bored I get by my surroundings, at least I can escape into my writing. At least I know the novel's gaining layers it could never have grown before.

I decide to relocate my main character's home from Apgujeong to the Nowon district - the corner of which I call home.

More info: www.giacomolee.com E-book: Available from Amazon, iTunes, Nook & Kobo for $7.

Paperback: Amazon & Wordery.

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 51

London, west side. 2016.

A year after Funereal’s release, the sirens have yet to give me the fame granted to the likes of Mitchell and Murakami. But I've had the luck to be featured on influential sites like Boing Boing, and to have been interviewed for the Korea Herald newspaper.

I've also gotten in touch with loads of other writers, and all the reviews so far have been amazing.

I really feel like I've set my paper swan onto the river of art & culture, making some small ripple with each wind-blown push across its massive surface.

With this thought, I hope I can inspire other writers to feature Korea in their fiction, to be brave and not just write about their own lives as an alien, but to actually write about the people around them.

As for me, as of now, I'm working on a new book.

But Korea isn't in the frame. I've said all I can about Seoul, and it's time for the torch to be passed. I've imagined the city, lived within its borders, from north to south. The exotic became a home, and now home has called me yonder.

However, I imagine there'll be a lot more books like Funereal, five years down the line.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Maybe Seoul was my siren, too.

– The first book you write doesn't necessarily have to be your first published book. Chances are, it'll be crap. Don't get dispirited, though, because you've made just made the biggest and hardest step forward - the first one.

– Getting short stories published is a waste of time if you think it'll move you up in the scene.

Novels have made much more of a professional impact on my life.

It's a world of difference. Only write short stories for the sheer joy of it!

– Don't make your novel a thinly veiled autobiography. You're just not that interesting.

– If you get published, then don't think your next book will necessarily be the follow-up. You have a million cool ideas, so give it a year or more trying them out.

After that, you'll know which book will be your second published novel.

– Go big, or go small. If you have a huge idea, then go for a huge publisher - and sell copies. If you have a niche idea, then go for a niche publisher who understands you - and sell copies. Anything in between, and it's going to be a bumpy ride.

– For books with huge ideas, go with an agent. If you're aiming for small presses, then an agent isn't needed. Your cool little book will just sit on your agent's desk for ages. Get out and there do your own legwork with the indie presses.

– If you're with an indie press, then expect the editing and publishing process to take a while. A publisher with a small staff will require you to have saint-like patience. But it'll be worth it.

– Self-publish only if you feel you've already touched base with all the burgeoning authors, accomplished editors and cool designers that you'll ever need in your life. When you self-publish, your brood will only ever be corporate Amazon. com. Your press can be a good family to have, and the only family you’ll ever need – remember that most of the literary scene is a slimy place where every nobody thinks they're king of the castle (especially on Twitter!)

ENTERTAINMENT

Seoul, south of the Han. 2014.

I've moved house, and things improve. Like Soobin Shin when she becomes the hostess for Seoul's fake funerals, I spend my time in Seoul's more happening areas, exploring the restaurants by Exit 11 in Gangnam, the many low-key gigs around Sangsu-dong, and the coffee shops of Hapjeong.

People tell me the idea for Funereal won't work, that, as an Englishman, I can't pretend to understand Korea and, as a man, I can’t put words in the mouth of a woman.

What do they know? I was nearly finished anyway. I was on a high, like Soobin Shin. But, like Soobin, home's call was too strong. The allure of Seoul couldn't hide the aspects so alien to me, nor the fact that I was an alien abroad. But I could see the city more clearly, and all the shadows hidden behind the glass façade. Gone were the gangsters, replaced by nameless old men in suits. Replaced were the cult leaders, re-imagined as sirens calling the young to shore, fame and headlines as their bait.

Groove Korea asked Giacomo what his advice was for those wanting to write. Below are some of his words of wisdom:

52 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

Peter, an accomplished climber and veteran of a number of expeditions to the Himalayas and China started SAN in 2009. Providing guided climbs and a popular climbing school in English, it has become an important name in adventure recreation. Jack, despite his unassuming appearance, turned out to be the former director of the Corean Alpine Club.

Later over makgeolli, I was told that Jack had once spent nearly a week stuck in a tent above 8,000 meters on Everest’s Kangshung Face, pinned down by the weather.

Story by Tom Godfrey Photos by Peter Jensen-Choi, Scott Muller

ROCKS

AND RIDGES Conquering Fear on Bukhansan

eter Jensen-Choi, owner of Sanirang Alpine Networks (SAN), leads the way through Doseunsa Temple in Bukhansan National Park. His helmet is bouncing off of a backpack full of hardware and rope. Behind him is his climbing buddy, a stocky, middle-aged Korean named Kang Sung-woo, or simply “Jack.” Peter, a native of Oregon, switches easily between my questions in English and Jack’s jokes in Korean. We find a narrow path behind a group of Buddha statues, some jovial and others menacing, that leads into the forest and towards one the ridge-lines of Bukhansan. Today, Peter and Jack are taking me - a doughy guy who needs a heavy dose of Xanax just to get onto an airplane - rock climbing for the first time.

I was out of my league.

I had done my best to prepare for this outing. I had upped my running regimen, laid off the pork-cutlet, and even done a few push-ups on my apartment floor with the hope of being able to pull my galbi-filled body up a few rocks with dignity. I had looked at the galleries on the SAN website and made note of the exposed cliff faces and thought, “It probably won’t look that bad.”

When at last we came out of the clearing that separated the hiking from the climbing, it did look that bad. Staring up at a jumble of granite in front of me and the sharp slope all the way down to the valley, I felt crushed by the sense of open air and height. I squatted and tried in vain to not look absolutely horrified.

“I can sense from your body language,” said Peter as he and Jack fitted their harnesses and put on their helmets, “that you’re not too comfortable.”

I tried to rationalize right there if I could write this article about climbing in Korea without actually moving past the crooked branches of the tree line. I asked Peter with a shaky voice if there were maybe a smaller, less exposed bit of rock we could climb. At one point, the words “This is my nightmare,” might have come out of my mouth. Fear is a powerful thing.

Later, Peter explained that his role as a guide goes far beyond the technical aspects of safety and leading the routes on the granite tops of mountains.

“It’s about reading and dealing with the client’s technical skill sets, physical ability, and comfort zones,” he says. “Along with anticipating problematic situations and taking preventative measures to manage one’s safety systems well in advance.”

With gentle encouragement that was never shaming or pushy, Peter pulled me out of my own head. As he led the way and set the ropes up the first pitch I stepped into my harness, laced up my shoes, put on my helmet and forgot how to tie the only knot that he told me to remember. After Jack checked my gear I took my first wobbly steps. My heart was pounding and the light breeze felt like a

May 2 and each Monday League, Seoul International Darts

League, 7.30pm, Team fees apply, Bars around Itaewon and Haebongcheon including Wolfhound, RMT, Sin Bin., www.seouldarts. net

May 3 - 5, KBO,

LG Twins vs. Doosan Bears, 6.30pm (Tues / Wed), 2pm (Thurs.), Jamsil, www.mykbostats.com/games

May 4 and each Wednesday League, Itaewon Pool League, 7.30pm,

Team fees apply, Bars around Itaewon and Haebongcheon including Scrooge, Sin Bin, Upper Deck, www.itaewonpool.org

May 7 and every Saturday Team Training, Korea Touch (Rugby) Association, 10am, Free Jamwon Pitch, Apgujeong, Seoul, www.facebook.com/koreatouch

May 7 and every Saturday bar May 14,Team Training

FC Seoul vs. Pohang Steelers, 2pm, Starts at KRW 15,000, Sangam World Cup Stadium, Seoul www.fcseoul.com/en/main/main.jsp

May 10-12, KBO, LG Twins vs.

Samsung Lions, 6.30pm, Jamsil, www.mykbostats. com/games

May 13-15, KBO, LG Twins vs. SK Wyverns, 6.30pm (Fri.), 5pm (Sat.), 2pm (Sun.), Jamsil, www.mykbostats.com/games

May 14, K-League Classic Seongnam FC vs. FC Seoul, 4pm, Starts at KRW 15,000, Tancheon Stadium, www.fcseoul.com/en/main/main.jsp

Overseas

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

Seoul Sisters head to Okinawa for the 3rd Annual Memorial Day Tournament, Flights, tickets and accommodation applies, www.facebook.com/SeoulSisters-Rugby-Football-Club-382156324202/?fref=nf

May 16, K-League Challenge

Seoul Eland vs. Daegu, 8pm, Jamsil Olympic Stadium, www.seoulelandfc.com/Ticket/Ticket.aspx

May 20 - 22, KBO, LG Twins vs. Nexen Heroes, 6.30pm (Fri.), 5pm (Sat.), 2pm (Sun.), Jamsil, www.mykbostats.com/games

May 27 - 29, KBO, LG Twins vs. Doosan Bears, 6.30pm (Fri.), 5pm (Sat.), 2pm (Sun.), Jamsil, www.mykbostats.com/games May 28, Tournament,

Korea Expatriate Rugby Association (KERA) in Busan, All day, Free, T.B.C. www.facebook.com/ SeoulSurvivors/?fref=ts

May 29, FC Seoul Expat Day, FC Seoul Expat Day, FC Seoul vs. Jeonnam, FC Seoul and the Seoul Global Center help bring soccer to the masses, 2pm kick-off, Starts at KRW15,000 Sangam World Cup Stadium, Seoul, www.fcseoul. com/en/main/main.jsp

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 53

I was, despite my near-tantrum, having fun.

From the top I climbed around the back to a small patch of flatland no larger than a small car. At one ledge was a barrier made of rebar and interlaced cable.

Climbing has risks. That barrier was not always there, Peter told me later, and was put up because that’s where people climbing without ropes tended to fall off the mountain.

Climbing in Bukhansan National Park is popular because it’s accessible and rewarding, but accidents and deaths happen. Peter and

Mangyeongdae Ridge Cost: Pricing for a guided climb is KRW 250,000 plus VAT for the first client. KRW 200,000 plus VAT for each client after that. Family and U.S. military discount rates are KRW 220,000 plus vat. The climbing school costs KRW 880,000 plus VAT per person with U.S. military and family discounts at KRW 660,000 plus vat.

Meeting point: From Suyu Station (Line 4), catch bus 120 heading north off the island, just a few lengths and to the left as you come out Exit 3. Take the bus to the end of the line (about 15 min.), get off and walk up the quaint street less than a block and dart into an alley to the right directly across from the Redface cornershop.

There's a porch and artificial climbing wall – you can't miss it Contact info: For information on climbing schools and guided climbs as well as pricing go to www.sanirang. net or call 010-8407-6112

May 8, K-League Challenge

SPORTS

his SAN associates hurricane trying to blow me off the ledge.

The view was intimidating but beautiful. challenge these risks To my right I could see the endless army through education and of apartments and high-rises far away in decades of combined a smoggy blur. More immediately I could see experience.

“Climbing doesn’t have to be this doom and the other stony peaks, deep valleys of maples gloom situation,” says Peter. “It can be nerveand pines waving in the breeze.

When I got to that first rock something wracking for any beginner, sure, but there are happened. I climbed. I had little commitment many techniques and skills to keep it safe.”

From that ledge we traversed a section at first but, as I looked for a place to put my hands and feet, the exposure and height was called Piano Bawi, which involved moving your hands sideways into replaced by a kind of puzzle. and along a slabby crack and More pressing than my fear, I FORGOT ABOUT MY shuffling your legs around which was still there of UNEMPLOYMENT, the outside of an exposed course, was a goal: I wanted MY DWINDLING FINANCES, bulge. From there, we to get to the top. I remembered AND MY STRESSES ABOUT walked to the final section what Peter told me and THE FUTURE. of our short climb. An hour “climbed with my legs and THERE WAS NOTHING BUT before, I had nearly lost feet” one hold after another.

THE PRESENT. my cool. As I climbed up It was slow but steady. I saw the final and steepest pitch dots of blood on my scraped hands and would later have bruises all over I felt a very primal sense of pride. I still had my knees but as I was climbing I felt none of no job, a dwindling bank account, and stress it. The feeling went beyond that too - I forgot about the future, but I had climbed a @*!^^#g about my unemployment, my dwindling mountain. finances, and my stresses about the future.

Location/Route: Bukhansan National Park, There was nothing but the present.

Seoul Sisters Training, 12pm, Free Jamwon Pitch, Apgujeong, Seoul, www.facebook.com/ Seoul-Sisters-Rugby-Football-Club-3821

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SUN, SAND AND RUGBY IN Beautiful Okinawa Seoul Sisters head to the Japanese islands for some 7s rugby action

54 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Story by Liam Ring Photos by Bryan Watkins

elebrating the 11th anniversary of the Seoul Sisters foundation this May 1, the Seoul Sisters can look back on its time developing and representing women’s rugby on the peninsula with plenty of pride. Co-founder Natalie Hallemans remembers those early days well, when a thirst for the game wasn’t being catered to, and even the men’s version of the game was well below the standards found nowadays.

Arriving on the peninsula after stints playing in New Zealand, the U.K. and South Africa, she set out with a few other farsighted souls to set up Korea’s first femaleonly expatriate team and, over a decade on, the team heads to Okinawa this month for its first tournament of the year. Time to see if all that hard training pays off.

Eleven years of experience means that challenges – and there are plenty – can be overcome even if at considerable effort.

A massive turnover during the close season saw only four of last season’s squad remain yet, through active social media recruitment and word of mouth, the club had 21 members from countries as diverse as Finland and Costa Rica at the first full practice. Another issue, and one which Hallemans has become deeply involved with, is coaching, as the Sisters seek to replace their much valued and respected coach who has also returned home. Along with Melanie Doucette, Hallemans has been putting the squad through its paces on the practice field in Apgujeong every Saturday lunchtime, but admits that it isn’t a role she’s that comfortable with. “I prefer playing.

I think it can be confusing having a playercoach because in training people never know

SPORTS

way. At the local level, the Seoul Sisters continue to fly the flag for women’s rugby, with matches against Korean ladies’ side Ellis as well as a 7s match against the national side late last year.

To build the game in Korea, Hallemans is in zero doubt as to what is needed. “More games, a solid league structure, and sponsorship to allow clubs to travel overseas and gain more match experience.” While clubs in Tokyo and Hong Kong have seen corporate interest lead to an upsurge in the game (and the Japanese women’s national team will be the Asian representatives at this August’s Olympics in Rio) rugby in

THE ULTIMATE GOAL IS FOR PEOPLE TO LEAVE KOREA ‘THINKING I HUNG OUT WITH THE SEOUL SISTERS AND IT WAS THE BEST TIME OF MY LIFE.’

With May bringing the first tournament of the year, the club will be working hard to make the second part of the season as competitive as possible. A number of touring sides have expressed an interest in coming to Seoul – with the Sister’s legendary status as hosts with the most an added attraction for sides.

Exhibition matches through the Korea Expat Rugby Association (KERA) are also a possibility and the club will continue to compete against Ellis. Anything else to add? The ultimate goal, confirms Hallemans, is for people to leave Korea “thinking I hung out with the Seoul Sisters and it was the best time of my life. We’ve had many people contact us to say that in the past. And it always gives us a buzz to hear it.”

Website: w ww.facebook.com/Seoul-Sisters-RugbyFootball-Club-382156324202/?fref=ts Contact email: seoulsisters827@gmail.com

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 55

general on the peninsula could be in far better financial shape. The Sisters consider themselves lucky then to have sponsorship from Tiwi Trade, new Itaewon-based eatery Mozzie and Sin Bin sports bar, all of whom will be featured on the Seoul Sister’s new shirts courtesy of Hukit.

The jersey manufacturer, used by several clubs across the country, is making good on a promise to supply the club with new kit coming off of a successful competition in the past. So suited (if not booted) as they say.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

what hat I’m wearing when I’m speaking to them.” In addition to having little in the way of funds available to attract a full-time coach, the Sisters also face the perennial problem that many women’s sides have of losing coaches to men’s teams once experience is gained. “There are better start-up opportunities with the women’s program [for coaches], but it means that we often have someone seeking to develop as one.” With ball-handling, decision-making, set-piece and back-line play all on the agenda as Okinawa approaches, there is plenty to be done.

Heading to Okinawa for the weekend of May 14, the Sisters plan on entering two sides in the 3rd Annual Memorial Day Tournament. Run by the U.S. Military’s rugby team and taking place on base, the Sisters will enter 7-a-side action against teams from Hong Kong, Taiwan, Japan and Korea. It will be the third trip to Japan for the Sisters after previous outings in Tokyo and Fukuoka, and the club sees it as a fantastic opportunity not only to compete (as the only all-female club), but also to network with clubs from across East Asia. What would qualify as a success? A trophy would certainly be fantastic, Hallemans agrees, but having a great time (and not picking up any injuries) is much more important.

Although the churlish may point out that the women’s game is still largely ignored, the Korean national team’s efforts in 7s gives some indication that change may be, if slowly, on the

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

HER BLACK WIDOW FOUNDATION SEEKS TO RAISE FUNDS FOR JUNIOR POOL PLAYERS OF BOTH GENDERS AS THEY PREPARE FOR THE WORLD POOL ASSOCIATION’S WORLD JUNIOR CHAMPIONSHIPS IN SHANGHAI LATER THIS YEAR.

RETURN OF THE BLACK WIDOW

Jeanette Lee entertains the troops on her U.S. Military tour

56 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Story by Liam Ring Photos by Steve Smith and the Itaewon Pool League Jeanette Lee was speaking to Christopher Saint Germain

Camp Humphreys Community Activity Center has seen many fiery encounters across the baize over the years, but not many involving a glare as deadly as that from The Black Widow, Jeanette Lee, on March 19. One the most fearsome female pool players of the past twenty years, Lee had not returned to the peninsula since she appeared on Korea’s Dancing with the Stars in 2013. The brightly lit American-style pool hall was far more

to her liking than the sequins and salsa of the ballroom and the player who first hit the World Pool number one spot in 1994 spent just over two hours entertaining the troops as part of a U.S. Military sponsored tour that had taken Lee to Australia and the Philippines.

Given time to catch breath on what was a whirlwind trip across Korea’s bases, the Black Widow was effusive in her thanks to everyone for the hospitality she experienced

during her stay as well as being at pains to ensure that everyone serving in Korea was clear on how much appreciation there was back in the States for their efforts.

Turning to pool, she was quick to discuss how her own form of the game – pocket pool – has developed on the peninsula in recent years even as the 4-ball and 3-ball varieties have continued to dominate. This dominance is something she believes likely prevents the World Pool and Billiards Association

(WPBA) from bringing tournament play to the peninsula even as the pocket form seems to be building in popularity in China. However, with play in Korea looking increasingly competitive, the number of both male and female pool players is certain to increase.

Overall she named Efran “Bata” Reyes – the only player she knows who makes all the other champions’ jaws drop - as simply “the best pool player who’s ever lived… ever.”

For a more local take on the sport, Groove Korea caught up with Jiwon Kim (Julia) – an 8 season veteran - to find out about the Itaewon Pool League (IPL)’s season thus far.

In addition to being the top-ranked female player in the league, Jiwon is also a two-time playoff champion. with more prize money than now as these days there are mostly only smaller house tournaments, held in local pool halls.

What do you think are the major differences between male and female players on the table?

JL: The strokes are different.

Women have trouble matching the speed and power of men.

There also might be a difference in spatial ability when it comes to position play and choice, but that is not always true.

What female pool players are there to look up to nowadays?

What effect can a strong female pool tour have on the popularity of the sport in Korea?

JL: The most popular players are Jeanette Lee, Alison Fisher, and Ga-young Kim. I think if there is a strong female pool tour on TV with good commentators, then many people will watch it and that can help pool to become more popular.

Do you ever feel that your gender affects views of you around the table?

JL: Many men underestimate females and that’s a big reason why I keep playing pool. I want to show their thinking is wrong and reverse their way of thinking.

Is there anything you do specifically to prepare for matches?

JL: I practice pocketing, breaking the balls, and mental preparation.

I tell myself that I can beat anyone, that I’m really good player, and not to make mistakes, especially with easy shots.

How is your team doing in the league this season? What is your personal ambition for the season?

JL: In the JR Pub All Stars team, everyone loves pool and the team is doing well. We could be champions this season. My ambition is for our team to be champions, to be the top-ranked team, and for me to stay the top-ranked female in the leaguet

Check out http://www.itaewonpool.org/ for how to get involved

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 57

How did you get involved in the IPL initially?

Jeanette Lee: I went to an Itaewon pub with a friend for the first time when I was 26 years old, and there was a pool table there. I like to play pool, so I wrote my name on the board to challenge the winner. I didn't lose. I held the table and played almost 2 hours for free with many other challengers. After that the owner of the Pub asked me to join his IPL team.

Do you have any thoughts on 8 or 9-ball's popularity?

JL: Among the amateur players in Korea, we have a handicap system when there is a tournament but no rankings.

If we control the rankings of all the amateur players, separating genders like in the IPL, I think it will be more exciting and many players will be motivated to get more points or get a higher ranking. Also, we need tournaments to become bigger

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

With thanks to Camp Humphreys for their assistance and hospitality www.blackwidowfoundation.org o find out more about how to help young players reach their dream of competing in Shanghai.

SPORTS

Among female opponents, she spoke of her admiration for the former snooker player Alison Fisher. Lee thought Fisher’s switch from snooker to pool was so challenging because in pool one miss can see you sitting down for much of the rest of the afternoon.

The differences between male and female players, she feels, is still clearly the power shots such as the break that still gives male players the edge over most female combatants, even though she insists, “We are gaining on them” and some women are capable of standing toe-to-toe against the men. Despite appearing in the first ever Mosconi Cup, Lee can’t speculate whether the powers that be will allow female players to return to what is now a men-only event, but Lee hopes there can be more mixed tournaments in the future. One point about the sport which some might not consider is the amount of mental preparation that goes into matches, with trusting your instinct and rising to every occasion key points to consider for any pool player wishing to get ready for competition. “Before the match even begins,” she explained, “I’m thinking about what I’m like when I’m playing my best pool.”

THE BRIGHTLY LIT AMERICAN-STYLE POOL HALL WILL HAVE SEEMED FAR MORE TO HER LIKING THAN THE SEQUINS AND SALSA OF THE BALLROOM

In addition to pool, she discussed her passion for better funding for girls’ sports in the United States – noting that for every dollar invested in girls’ sports, three dollars is invested in football for boys – and her work with the Scoliosis Foundation.

Another charitable foundation she is heavily involved in is her Black Widow Foundation, which raises funds for junior pool players of both genders as they prepare for the World Pool Association’s (WPA) World Junior Championships in Shanghai later this year.

It also, she believes, “helps them to be the best people they can be both on and off the table.”

Over the two hours, Lee was at her very best and most charming, sharing stories, jokes and commentary on pool as well as taking on (and beating) a number of challengers throughout the afternoon.

Commenting on the standard of pool she faced over the tour as a whole, she was very complimentary towards those who tested their skills against her; one challenger from Osan came close to beating her and thus was the lucky recipient of her famous glare. Without doubt, the audience at Camp Humphreys had a fantastic afternoon, and Jeanette Lee – glare included – will be welcome back any time.

REVIEW:

McDonald’s Create Your Taste Has Ronald McDonald Finally Gone to Culinary School?

58 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Story and photos by Robert “Bob” Kienzle

ith McDonald’s introduction of the “Create Your Taste” menu, it’s now safe to take a date to Mickey D’s, spend over KRW 10,000 each, and not be seen as a cheap date. After all, you’ll be dining on McDonald’s new promise of 100% pure Angus beef!

Thirty-nine McDonald’s in Korea are now serving fancied up “Signature Burgers” with participating restaurants in locations such as Sinsa-dong, Itaewon and Sinchon.

McDonald’s is currently promoting three special burgers for 7,500 won each: the Golden

Egg Cheeseburger, Grilled Mushroom Burger, and the Hot All Over Burger.

But why let a fast food clown make adult decisions for you? It’s much more fun to use the kiosk menu and create your own sandwich step-by-step. Brioche or oatmeal bun? Or a lettuce wrap for the paleo set? How many Angus patties would you like? Which four veggies, eight sauces, and three cheeses will you opt to add? Want bacon, grilled onions, fried egg, and/or grilled mushrooms? Have it your way! (Wait a minute…Can we print that?)

It’s easy to make a gluttonous monster burger that’ll cost 10,000-15,000 won.

Food:

Ambiance:

Service:

The good: McDonald’s is really going hard for quality and attention to detail. The staff provide table service to deliver your meal.

The not-so-good: It’s still McDonald’s. The ambiance has not changed. Given the price increase the question arises: Why choose fast food? The KRW 15,000 for a jazzed up value meal could be spent for a more legitimate, sitdown meal. Even with Angus beef, it’s still not the ideal date atmosphere 56-18, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul.

070-7017-0305 Thirty-nine locations in Korea serving Signature Burgers. Check mcdonalds.co.kr for locations.

Value:

Score:

Story by Jordan Redmond Photo courtesy of Maple House

Restaurant Buzz

A CANADIAN JOINT JUST IN TIME FOR THE STANLEY CUP AND MORE!

MAPLE HOUSE Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-ro 145 2F 02-790-7936

SANDWICH HOUSE Seongbuk-gu, Bomun-ro 34-ga-gil 2 02-928-8450

NEIGHBORHOOD Seodaemun-gu, Changcheon-dong 53-24 02-3144-0860

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Canadians, rejoice! Maple House has opened in the heart of Itaewon. If the name doesn't say it all, expect a wide range of gravy-dripping poutines, Beaver Tail, and Big Rock beer. Maple House goes heavy on the bar food (perfect for hockey!) but also features weekly pasta specials and a burly looking Korean-Canadian pork belly dish which sits as majestic as the Rockies on a bed of root vegetable mash. Now Seoul just needs a Tim Horton's…

Continuing on the vaguely residential theme, Sandwich House, located at Sungshin University station on Line 4, isn't exactly new, but good sandwiches (outside of a certain foreigner enclave) still aren't exactly easy to find. Those looking for a tryptophan fix will be happy to know that here sliced turkey is generously slathered with mayo and can be paired with a fairly good number of sandwich cheeses. Throw some Swiss on there.

Close your eyes and pretend you're in Cincinnati.

Last, with the weather heating up, who can deny a good gose beer?

Get on over to Neighborhood in Sinchon for Galmegi Brewing Company’s lemon-lime gose. It's a rare variation of the sour beer and will no doubt give you more ups than Grant Hill's beverage of choice. If you miss out, don't worry: Galmegi plans to release fruity gose variations to aid your summer alcohol escapades.

Chiquita Pepita A CUCUMBERY COCKTAIL WITH A SEDUCTIVE SPLASH OF VERDITA Recipe and photo by Bobby Kim

1.5 o Inf z. Cuc use um d be .5 o z. T Tequi r la ripl 1.5 e S oz .5 o . Verd ec ita z. L .5 i Cuc oz. A me gav um (fo ber R e ibb r g Chi arnis on h) li F (fo r g lake arn ish)

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 59

now in the thick of spring and with warm weather comes refreshing cocktails.

Beautifully green in color, Chiquita Pepita has an all around freshness with the Cucumber Infused Tequila and Verdita. The cucumber infusion nicely softens up the tequila to where it is quite pleasant to drink on its own (if you weren’t a fan of tequila to begin with). Verdita is a slightly sweet, slightly spicy blend of spearmint, cilantro, pineapple, and green chili pepper. Spring only comes once a year, but Chiquita Pepita’s can certainly be had in twos or threes.

60 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Kong Project A YEARLONG JOURNEY FROM SEED TO SAUCE Story by: Jordan Redmond Photos by: James Thole and Anna Jo

Stage 2 -Tending and Harvesting

atience doesn't come easy these days. In fact, life in Seoul rarely seems to encourage it. For making doenjang, however, patience is not only important but a complete necessity. From seed to sauce, the process takes almost an entire year. When I signed up for the Kong Project, a yearlong endeavor to learn how to make soybean paste and sauce from scratch, I knew it would be a crash course in learning how to wait.

After the initial planting, there were a number of months that simply involved weeding. Planned monthly trips were par for the course but so too was impromptu maintenancing when our patch of land got a bit too overgrown. On such occasions, those who were available would head out to Hansol Farm in Namyangju for a tiring but

rewarding day outside the urban bustle of Seoul.

Such trips, planned or not, were often highlighted by fantastic meals, whether it was by sharing a potluck meal in the farm's Big House or ducking into a countryside restaurant that specialized in producing their own doenjang.

It was on a post足 -farming trip to one such restaurant, Jeongajip, that was a real lightbulb moment for myself and others in the group about the true power and utility of fermented soy.

As a general rule, consumers in South Korea are used to the caramel brown color of the mass produced doenjang used at most restaurants and available on supermarket shelves. However, the fermentation process of such doenjang's has been made to fit an industrial, profit足-driven timetable.

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

WHEN I SIGNED UP FOR THE KONG PROJECT, A YEARLONG ENDEAVOR TO LEARN HOW TO MAKE SOYBEAN PASTE AND SAUCE FROM SCRATCH, I KNEW IT WOULD BE A CRASH COURSE IN LEARNING HOW TO WAIT. in a humid environment for a couple of weeks before hanging it in the cold winter air in a cradle using byeot jip, a dried rice straw which is friendly with the bacteria attracted to the fermenting soy. Before we could do this, however, we would need to harvest.

The long-awaited harvest rolled around in late October. It was a surprisingly easy process to pull the soy plants from the ground. They came up as if of their own will. We marked the occasion by returning to Jeongajip and celebrating with rounds of cheongha.

A few weeks later, after the plants had dried sufficiently, we returned on a cool November morning for shelling. Leading up to this, my mind turned to shelling butter beans with my grandmother back in South Carolina. I expected a similarly passive, time-足intensive process.

Instead, upon arriving we were handed long, thin pieces of plastic pipe. With these, we would thresh the dried pods. The method sounded a bit suspect, but it worked surprisingly well. Aside from being much more fun than sitting and shelling for hours on end, the rhythm and rasping thwacks of multiple people hitting the dried plants is a sound that I will never forget.

With winter closing in, the shelling day was a satisfying end to our farming experience.

Soon, we would return for what we essentially all had signed up for: fermentation.

Jordan Redmond will be sharing more experiences with The Kong Project in coming issues.

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 61

At Jeongajib, their doenjang is aged for far longer. The one used in our doenjang jjigae was an earthy dark brown, the color of extremely fertile soil and its flavor a deep, dank umami.

The difference is so stark that the two doenjang pastes are almost unrecognizable as being the same product.

To further our fermentation education, we visited a "soy sauce master". For me, the term conjured images of an ancient bearded man in a gray, quilted hanbok. Instead, we were greeted by a cheerful and decidedly modern middle-足aged woman, a winner of several soy sauce competitions. She shared with us the necessary process of boiling the soybeans low and slow overnight before mashing the still warm beans and forming them into meju, the rectangular block form in which the soybeans ferment. It would be necessary to keep the meju

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

THE ROUGH GUIDE TO RAMYEON Dave Hazzan Tackles the Instant Noodle Aisle

62 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Story by Dave Hazzan Photo by Jo Turner

hen I was 14 years old, I bought my first pack of cigarettes.

Boy, did I feel like someone, trembling before the cigarette machine, trying to decide which pack would deliver that golden deliciousness I had seen in so many Bruce Willis movies. In the end, I chose a packet of Craven A’s because they were the first button to the left. The manager was just around the corner, and I had to plug in 16

quarters before he threw my ass back onto the street. Do you know what I learned? Craven A’s are disgusting. It’s a lot like that when a nonKorean chooses ramyeon. You stand before a colorful rack of product, one that’s kind of illicit because according to 90 percent of Koreans, you’re not supposed to enjoy spicy noodles. Ramyeon is also addictive, and there’s a solid chance that if you eat it for the rest of your life, it will kill you.

I’ve since quit smoking, but ramyeon and I have remained friends. Previously, I stuck to one brand; but then I was fired from my job at the end of February, which meant no more lunches out but plenty of time to skim the ramyeon racks at the corner store under my apartment.

I tried them all and this comprehensive review is the result. Note that opinions are subjective, prices are not the same everywhere, and that if you don’t like salt, you don’t like ramyeon.

THE BASIC

These are your basic ramyeons, usually the popular ones that come with a simple bag of dehydrated vegetables, a powdered soup mix, and a hockey puck of dried noodles.

Jin Ramen (Mild). 2.5/5. KRW 700

Another delightful offering from Nongshim. Very hot and fishy, it aims for that jjambbong flavor without the jjambbong price, with simple packaging and prep.

The mild version of Ottogi’s Jin is a good, cheap and greasy choice for those who don’t like spicy food.

Lacking the heat, though, it’s basically just a fix for salt junkies.

Masitneun (Delicious) Ramyeon. 3.5/5. KRW 850

Samyang Sogogi Myeon 3.5/5. KRW 650

I was curious about this one from Samyang, especially given that the front package depicts oodles of vegetables: carrots, broccoli, peppers, and a dozen others. They do appear in the form of dried flakes, and the sauce is very tangy, making for a delicious ramyeon experience all around.

This is Korean ramyeon with no frills. One square pack of noodles, one packet of spicy “beef” soup mix.

Stir, boil, and eat. It’s spicy, tasty, squishy, and for that price, well worth it.

Jin Ramen (Hot). 3.5/5. KRW 700 Ottogi’s Jin Ramen Hot is a simple but delicious ramyeon, very spicy, and a bit oilier than the others.

Anseong Tangmyeon. 3.5/5. KRW 650 An excellent value ramyeon from Nongshim. No frills, with only one powder packet and some dried seaweed, it has a salty, seollong-tang type flavor.

RAMYEON IS ALSO ADDICTIVE, AND THERE’S A SOLID CHANCE THAT IF YOU EAT IT FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE, IT WILL KILL YOU.

THE PREMIUM

Sometimes, you just want to pamper yourself. These are the ramyeons that you might need to open your wallet for. Especially popular here are the Chinese noodles: jjajang, or black bean noodles; and jjambbong, spicy seafood noodles. Both are ideally experienced at an actual Chinese-Korean restaurant, but not everyone is so flush for cash.

Paldo Jjajangmyeon. 3/5. KRW 1,500

Shin Ramyen Black. 4.5/5. KRW 1,500

A solid player in the world of instant jjajangmyeon.

Boil the noodles up with the pea and cabbage soup mix, strain it, and squeeze on the creamy black jjajang sauce. I like my jjajang a little spicier, so a bit of hot sauce on top does the trick.

Detractors have accused Nong-shim of defrauding consumers with this twice-the-price deluxe version of their signature ramyeon. Defraud, de-schmaud – Shin Black is the bomb! Same noodles, but with little pieces of beef to go with the dehydrated vegetables, and a seollongtang powder that makes the broth thick with sodium-rich goodness! Pony up, cheap-o, it’s worth the extra 750 won.

Bul (Fire) Jjambbong. 5/5. KRW 1,500 DAMN! That’s a great jjambbong you’ve got there, Paldo! This here might be the King of Instant Jjambbongs – fishy, meaty, spicy, salty, tangy, with little bits of chewy meat and fish, and a soup sauce that dances on your tongue! Worth every won you pay, this is the jjambbong to rule all jjambbongs.

Jjawang. 3.5/5. KRW 1,500

Mat (Delicious) Jjambbong. 3.5/5. KRW 1,500

Jin Jjambbong Ramen. 4/5. KRW 1,600

More jjambbong! A delightful offering from Nongshim, the aptly titled delicious jjambbong has thick chewy noodles, flavorful broth with little chunks of squid, and quite a kick, provided by both the hot pepper oil and the soup mix.

A fine jjambbong. It’s made in three stages: first, season the water with the dehydrated vegetables and seafood, then add the noodles with the jjambbong paste. Finally, when it’s cooked, add the red pepper oil.

The result is a tangy, spicy, seafood-y delight.

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Noguri (Eolkeunhan). 4/5. KRW 850

A step up from the Paldo jjajang, with thicker noodles.

Jjawang includes a powdered jjajang sauce and small packet of oil, which you mix together with the peas and meat slivers, and three tablespoons of water to create a sticky and scrumptious mess in a bowl.

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 63

For even more ramyeon reviews from Dave Hazzan, check out the full-length story on GrooveKorea.com

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Sweet Steams Are Made OF T his

BREAK INTO BREAD-BAKING AT HOME. NO OVEN REQUIRED.

64 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Story by: Charlotte Hammond & Todd Tavares Photo by: Charlotte Hammond

ast month, I wrote about kicking my convection oven to the literal curb in favor of baking with my rice cooker.

For entry-level bakers and those new to baking with a rice cooker, I suggested trying out cake from a box. Try baking something from a box a few times. Brownies are good.

Banana bread is another easy option.

When you’re ready to go to the next level, I strongly suggest trying to make bread in your rice cooker. Is it easy? Well, if you already know how to make bread from scratch, the process is practically the same.

If you’re new to breadmaking, it will take some patience and trust. The results are great and I guarantee that nearly any floury masterpiece will beat out Paris Baguette in price and taste.

You will need: 1 and 1/3 cup wheat flour plus extra flour for kneading 1 tsp salt About 1 cup warm water 1 tsp active dry yeast 1 pinch sugar

Start with the dry ingredients. Mix the flour and salt and set aside. In a separate bowl, add the yeast and sugar to the warm water until the yeast blooms. Then add the wet mixture to the bowl of dry ingredients.

Stir until the dough starts to clump or pull away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is dry, you can add water. If wet, add flour as needed.

Once the dough has taken shape, begin to fold and knead the dough. You will want to flour your hands and the surface you’re working on to knead more easily. Start by

stretching it lengthwise and folding it in half, then fold it crosswise. Repeat for a few minutes.

Shape the dough into a ball, place it in a clean bowl and cover. A towel is fine for a cover. Let the dough rise for a minimum of 45 minutes.

Repeat the kneading process for a few minutes. The dough should feel firmer and take shape more easily.

Place the dough inside the rice cooker. With a knife, cut an “X” into the bread so it does not pop while rising. Set for 45 more minutes to rise.

Turn on your rice cooker to bake for 50-60 minutes by setting the rice cooker to “Steam” (찜). You may need to flip the bread about halfway through so that the top becomes firm.

Once you master the simple bread, you can get fancy. Add rosemary, olive oil or grated garlic. Or don’t..

Perfect kimbap to go in Yeouido Story and Photo by: Yoo Jin Oh

had with special ingredients like salmon (5,000), cream cheese (3,500) and even natto, fermented Japanese soybean (4,500).

Although higher-priced than average kimbap, it’s a great value lunch considering the quality and freshness of the fillings and the cute brown lunch box packaging.

Kim’s Rice is located by exit 6 of Yeoido Station inside the 아이렉스 building.

once again the season to grab a six-pack or a bottle of wine and head to the Han River for a lazy weekend to enjoy the nice weather riverside. If you’re tired of the standard fried chicken, sausages and potato chips, Kim’s Rice by Yeoido Station offers healthy and freshlyprepared kimbab perfect for picnics. The eight kinds of kimbap range from KRW 3,000 – 5,000 won and can be

E

BIT

OF HE TH T MON

Hours 9AM – 8:30PM on weekdays and 11:00AM – 7PM on weekends.

37 Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu 070-7760-5467

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

KIMBAP TO PERFECT ANY PICNIC AT KIM’S RICE

CHOCOLATE OVERLOAD IN MYEONG-DONG

Uncovering the City's Most Irresistible Destination Dishes Story and Photo by: Andy Hume

Triple chocolate bingsu (트리플초콜렛빙수, KRW 11,800 / KRW 14,800) at Kakao Green (카카오그린) Jung-gu Myeong-dong 8-gil 17, 3rd floor, Tel. 02-3789-3102

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 65

ith summer just around the corner, a cooling bingsu is the obvious way to welcome the warmer temperatures. But the triple chocolate version at Myeong-dong cafe Kakao Green is no ordinary shaved ice dessert; it’s a chocolatey behemoth topped with truffles, brownie chunks and chopped walnut.

Trust me, there is some shaved ice lurking beneath the gravity-defying exterior, but the chances are that you won’t make it that far. As for the larger serving on offer, goodness only knows what that looks like.

Kakao Green’s organic chocolate is made in-store and they also have a large range of other desserts, as well as the usual selection of hot and cold beverages. It’s a great spot for avoiding the tourist crowds and cooling off as the mercury rises.

Summer Of 69…

Craft Beers Kick-off the Summer Early With Two Craft Beer Festivals

66 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Story by Rob Shelley Image courtesy of Media Paran

a great time of year to be a beer geek. This month, two new beer fests will be following on the heels of last month’s The Beer Week hosted by The Booth. The Great Korean Beer Festival, hosted by Media Paran, will launch its sixth iteration at COEX Mall while Good Times ROK and Ka-Brew will co-host the 2nd Annual Craft Beer and Music Festival in Gapyeong. These festivals provide an excellent opportunity to celebrate and showcase Korea’s best locally made craft beer and most popular imports.

Media Paran’s Great Korean Beer Festival (GKBF) hopes to improve upon last year’s event which saw 74,000 visitors, aiming to serve up to 100,000 visitors this May. Aside from pouring up some of Korea’s best beers, Media Paran also promises great food, music, and beer geek surprises.

“The festival is not merely about drinking beer,” a spokesperson for Media Paran said.

“Brewmasters from small, independent breweries will be on hand to introduce their

creations. At the ‘Meeting the Brewer’ event, brewers will share their beer stories and beer philosophies, and visitors will have a chance to ask questions about craft beer. Famous faces from overseas craft beer communities will also be visiting.” Media Paran plans on having representatives from various breweries give talks. Ballast Point, Founders, Hand & Malt, Budnamu, and Ka-Brew are among the breweries they hope will participate in speaking sessions at this year’s festival.

Taking place outside COEX mall in conjunction with the mall’s C-Festival, the GKBF is easy to get to for Seoulites and perfect for pairing with a nearby activity such as fine dining or shopping.

The 2nd Annual Craft Beer and Music Fest, running May 14-15, 2016 will combine craft beer and music with the great outdoors.

Held in the Jarasum area of Gapyeong, event-goers are invited to come out for the day or reserve camping grounds, hotels, or pensions for the weekend. This festival, which expects around 10,000 visitors, places as much emphasis on live music and partying as it does on the craft beer. “Non-craft beer Date: Location:

fans can come for a day in the beautiful mountain surroundings and enjoy some great food and listen to a variety of bands in Korean and English in addition to the DJs,” says festival organizer Michael Suh. Good Times ROK has plenty of experience in bringing the fun as regular event organizers for expats living in Korea. Just this year they’ve organized the Jindo Sea Parting Festival, several snowboarding trips, and a DMZ tour.

The Craft Beer and Music Festival, however, is perhaps their most ambitious endeavor.

As Michael Suh explains, “There is a lot of planning and organizing for this event because of the size of it. [We are] organizing the beer companies, food vendors, booths, stage, sound, lighting, plus dealing with the city officials, accommodations, marketing, scheduling the bands and DJs, and more.”

Both festivals are free to attend. The GKBF will additionally offer sample coupons, allowing customers to try small servings of several different beers at a discount.

The Gapyeong event offered early bird tickets until May 1, but will sell tickets at the event for KRW 10,000, which are good for two 360 ml cups of beer.

Both festivals will feature many of Korea’s best breweries including Magpie, Platinum, Ark, Ka-Brew, Gorilla, and Weizen Haus.

However, some breweries will only feature exclusively at one festival or the other. GKBF will have The Hand & Malt, The Booth, and Playground Brewery beers. In contrast, the 2nd Annual Craft Beer and Music Festival will feature Galmegi Brewing Company, Budnamu, 7Brau, and Whasoo Brewery beers.

Craft beer virgins and neophytes along with seasoned beer veterans will find there’s no better place to find a new beer to drink than at two of the country’s biggest beer events where you can try almost anything.

May 4–May 8, 2016 / 1 PM–10 PM, daily The outdoor plaza outside Samseong Station, Subway Line 2, Exits 5 and 6

Hosts: Sponsors:

Media Paran, Gangnam-gu Office, COEX MICE Cluster Committee Korea Tourism Organization, Visit Korea Committee

2

nd Annual Craft Beer and Music Festival May 14th (noon-11pm), May 15th (noon-7pm) Good Times ROK & Kabrew will be hosting the 2nd Annual Craft Beer & Music Festival in Gapyeong, Jarasum.

Take the ITX train to Gapyeong station from Yongsan station (The train ride is 50 minutes long. It’s best to reserve ahead of time).

Come out of the exit and we will have shuttle vans rotating every 15 minutes to the venue.

If you decide to walk, it’s about 20 minute on foot.

Name and address of venue: Gyeonggi-do, Gapyeong goon,Gapyeong eup, Jarasum- ro 60 Korean address: 경기도 가평군 가평읍 자라섬로 60 자라섬 캠핑장

More Info: GKBF with C-Festival

For more information about the event, you can visit:

www.facebook.com/greatkoreanbeerfestival www.greatkoreanbeerfestival.com, or send questions about the event to pr@mediaparan.com.

Rob Shelley writes about craft beer and keeps a Korean Beer Directory and Upcoming Events page at www.CraftBeerAsia.com/Korea.

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 67

T R A V E L Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

IN THE SHADOW OF THE ADMIRAL A historical tour around Korea courtesy of Yi Sun Sin.

68 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Story and Photos by Trevor Owens

outh Koreans have to look back a long time to find political figures with unassailable legacies, which is one reason why Joseon Dynasty leaders like King Sejong and Admiral Yi Sun Sin are so beloved today. In the face of overwhelming odds and stakes no higher than the fate of his

people, Yi Sun Sin perfectly demonstrated values of loyalty, integrity, and ingenuity in a legendary defense of his homeland.

Yi is known in Korea as a military genius with a gift for strategy and invention both in tactics and in weaponry. Ancient tales of an armored ship used to fight pirates inspired Yi to create the world’s first iron-clad battleship,

called a turtle ship despite its capability for speed. Yi also invented a new type of iron cannon and created a crane-wing formation strategy for trapping enemy ships. His undefeated record in battle includes the famous battle of Myeongnyang, in which his fleet of 12 ships defeated a Japanese force of 133.

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before emerging to lead the Korean fleet to victory. Although the admiral is not wellknown in the West, Yi’s hardships and overwhelming success have left him with an unassailable legacy in Korea. I decided to visit some of Korea’s monuments to the admiral, and pay my respects to his memory.

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 69

Yi’s achievements are all the more impressive considering the weak government plagued by infighting that characterized the late 16th century Joseon Dynasty. False accusations of treachery nearly sent the admiral to the execution block on two separate occasions, and he was also stripped of his command twice,

Stop 1: Seoul My first stop is one that few Koreans seek out: a small stone marker on an otherwise unremarkable street in the printing district of Seoul, a short walk from the Euljiro-3-ga subway station. Images of turtle ships adorn decorated stone blocks along the street, letting visitors know this is Yi’s home district. When I visited in the dead of winter, the plaque was so polished it reflected like a mirror — the monument may be relatively unknown, but someone made sure it glistened in the morning sun.

Gwanghwamun lies in the heart of Seoul, in view of Gyeongbokgung Palace and the American Embassy, a short walk from Insadong. The center of the plaza features a large golden statue of a seated King Sejong, who looks on as a statue of Yi commands a turtle ship. Make your way behind the Sejong statue and you’ll find a door in the back of his throne, and steps leading down. Inside, under the bustle of traffic and pedestrians are two museums: one for King Sejong and another dedicated to the admiral. While geared toward

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ALL HIS MILITARY ACCOMPLISHMENTS WERE BORNE FROM A FIERCE LOVE OF HIS COUNTRY AND A DEDICATION TO DEFEND THE COMMON PEOPLE.

victories against the 470-ship strong Japanese fleet. Those defeats at sea were the only thing that held Toyotomi from his goal. Yi and the Korean fleet cut off the supply lines for the Japanese army, and turned what should have been a quick Japanese victory into a lengthy and difficult defeat.

The great port city has a large statue of Yi Sun Sin, which was erected in Yongdusan Park in 1955. After taking in the four battle scenes on the statue’s pedestal, I went to the top of Busan Tower, which is a great way to view the ships and passages in Busan Harbor.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Get there: Nampo-dong Station (Line 1, Exit 1)

children, the exhibits are worth seeing for interested adults. If you have children in tow, you can play a few games that involve using Joseon-era weapons and technology to turn away the Japanese invasion.

70 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Get there: Birth Marker: Euljiro 3-ga (Line 2 or Line 3, Exit 8).

Gwanghwamun Square (Line 5, Exit 3 or Exit 4).

Stop 2: Busan Japan’s 1592 invasion of Korea is known here as the Imjin War, and it began with surreptitious embassy and trade dealings in Busan. Diplomats and traders bribed officials and worked their way into the government infrastructure before their surprise attack. Japanese warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi had unified Japan and wanted to conquer Ming Dynasty China. He planned to

FACING DEATH, THE COMMANDER WANTED TO ENSURE VICTORY AND THE MORALE OF HIS MEN. conquer Korea quickly, and use the country as a base for pushing Japanese military might farther west. The land battles were a disaster for the outmatched and disorganized Korean army, which could not overcome internal power struggles and bureaucracy to fight off the Japanese army and its newly-developed muskets.

In a set of five key sea battles near Busan in August and early September 1592, Yi Sun Sin led his fleet of 166 to a series of crushing

Stop 3: Tongyeong and Cheongwan Tongyeong is the hardest place to reach among those on this list, but perhaps the most rewarding. In Tongyeong Harbor, tourists can visit three separate turtle ships, the most ever in commission at once in the Korean Navy.

The highlight is a fourth vessel: a dilapidated but earnest replica of panokseon, the large battleship of the type that Admiral Yi would have headed as the flagship of his fleet. The ship is emblematic of the tourist-driven attractions in Tongyeong, which look like they are capable of safely floating in the harbor — but not much else.

After exploring the harbor, I took a ferry to Hansando, the island home of one of the admiral’s naval bases during the war and a launch site for some of his most important campaigns. A ferry takes you past a turtle ship lighthouse and a turtle ship statue atop a mountain west of the tiny Hansando Harbor.

Yi’s base has been partially rebuilt and restored to allow tourists to enjoy a sense of what it was like 400 years ago. The complex now features several buildings from the era, a shrine, and his unique archery range, where sailors trained to fire arrows over the sea.

I made my way to Changwon and the Korea Naval Academy Museum. Traveling here requires a special guide since the academy is closed to civilians, but the sights are worth the effort. The best statue of the admiral in Korea is here, and features a realistic Yi holding a bow and arrow. The main attraction is the Korean Navy’s full-size, fully operational turtle ship.

Built in 1980 to exacting specifications, this magnificent ship is the only way to experience stepping into history with a convincing replica of Admiral Yi’s creation. The ship is in commission as a training vessel for the Korean Navy. When you walk around the deck, you can lift the thick wooden window panels and glimpse some of the destroyers that make up Korea’s modern naval fleet. No photos are allowed.

Get there: Changwon: Changwon Station then taxi to the Naval Academy (Haegun Sagweon Hakyo).

Tongyeong: Tongyeong Bus Terminal then

taxi to Tongyeong Culture Plaza.

Hansando: Tongyeong Bus Terminal then

taxi to the ferry port then take the ferry for 25 minutes.

Yi Sun Sin’s final resting place is far from the city in Asan. He is buried in a modest circular tomb on a quiet hillside. Walking through the grounds toward his tomb, I passed quiet rice paddies and a reflecting pool with a pine tree in the center. Koi and goldfish swam slowly in the cold winter water, awaiting the spring.

The breeze only lightly touches this side of the mountain, leaving the air fresh and still in the clearing.

I watched children playing on the grass and I was overwhelmed by the thought that Yi would love this place. All his military accomplishments were borne from a fierce love of his country and a dedication to defend the common people. Today, the legacy of Korea’s greatest hero is celebrated throughout the land of the morning calm.

Get there: Hyeonchungsa: From Cheonan Station,

take Buses 900, 910 or 920.

Tomb of Yi Sun Sin: From Onyang Oncheon Station (Line 1), take a taxi to Yi Sun Sin Mudom

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 71

Stop 5: Asan While a weak government and bribed military leaders wanted to allow the Japanese fleet to

retreat intact, Yi refused to let the people who occupied his country for seven years escape to rebuild their army. In a final bloody battle at Noryang, Yi was hit by a bullet in the shoulder.

Facing death, the commander wanted to ensure victory and the morale of his men.

With his final breath, he said “Cover me with a shield. The battle is in an urgent state now. Never let the soldiers know my death.”

Admiral Yi was felled by a bullet, but he ensured that Japan’s hope for conquest died with him. The battle at Noryang left the shattered remnants of the once-mighty Japanese fleet limping home, and the peace for which Yi fought so hard would last more than 300 years.

Asan is a perfect bookend to a journey around Korea in the admiral’s shadow. The city’s main historical attraction is Hyeonchungsa, an extensive memorial complex containing shrines, Yi’s family home, and a museum dedicated to Yi Sun Sin. Yi’s family moved from Seoul to Asan when he was eight years old, and you can shoot arrows in the spot that Yi himself did as a young man. The complex is Korea’s largest monument to the admiral.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Get there: Yi Sun Sin Square: Any city bus Seonso Shipyard: From Yeosu Intercity Bus Terminal, take Bus 88 to Buyeong Apt. 3-danji.

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Stop 4: Yeosu Yi’s legacy is especially strong in Yeosu, from which he launched his most famous naval campaigns. When the Japanese invaded in 1592, Yi was stationed in Yeosu as head of half of the Jeollado section of the Korean fleet. His comprehensive strategy and perfect success rate eventually earned him a place as admiral of Korea’s entire fleet.

I approached the center of Yeosu by bus and was greeted by a towering statue of the admiral in the center of a roundabout, looking over Yi Sun Sin Square. The admiral is depicted pointing out at the harbor while holding an oversized ceremonial sword and standing on a turtle ship.

Yi Sun Sin Square borders the harbor and features an enormous turtle ship replica built on the land.

A memorial has detailed maps and information about the war, along with stone drum memorials for those who fought in the navy with Admiral Yi. From the square, a short walk up the hill will take you to Yi’s naval headquarters, which is known as Jinnamgwan, and a humble museum dedicated to the Imjin War. A short taxi ride will take you to Yeosu Seonso Yujeok, the original shipyard for the first turtle ship. For those who don’t know better, the pair of empty stone docks and modest restored buildings may look uninspiring. Knowing what was built here and how it changed the course of Korean history gives the shipyard a sense of significance. The site is free of charge and largely off the radar for tourists, so I enjoyed the gently lapping waters of the small bay in a quiet moment in the footsteps of history.

If you have time, visit Chungminsa, the oldest shrine dedicated to the admiral and one of Yeosu’s lesser-known historical sites.

Chungminsa was demolished in 1919 during the Japanese occupation, but was rebuilt by locals. The small shrine is tucked away in a quiet mountainside park, and the serene atmosphere and museum make this one of my favorite places in Korea.

ADMIRAL YI WAS FELLED BY A BULLET, BUT HE ENSURED THAT JAPAN’S HOPE FOR CONQUEST DIED WITH HIM.

72 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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The Party Goes on in Vang Vieng

Rumors of the party capital’s demise have been slightly exaggerated Story and Photos by George Kalli

arly descriptions of Vang Vieng, Laos invariably portrayed it as a lawless, dangerous party town. It was not uncommon for comatose revelers to drown in placid waters while tubing down the river between riverbank bars. The combination of drugaddled Tarzan wannabes and shoddy zip line construction also proved to be lethal, with 27 party-related deaths documented in 2011 alone. Guidebooks and online forums warned that those not looking to party with hallucinating backpackers might find it challenging to enjoy themselves in Vang Vieng. That was unfortunate, for Vang Vieng is blessed with stunning beauty, thanks in large part to the cave-pocked limestone mountains which surround it, and is an obvious stopover on the tourist trail between the capital Vientiane and the colonial retreat of Luang Prabang.

VANG VIENG REINVENTED ITSELF AS A POST-PARTY DESTINATION, CATERING TO OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS WHO FAVOR BOUTIQUE RESORTS RATHER THAN GAP-YEAR PARTIERS IN SEARCH OF THE CHEAPEST BUNKS. This all appeared destined to change, however, when the Laotian government decided to clean things up and crack down on all the contraband-crazed shenanigans.

Vang Vieng reinvented itself as a post-party destination, catering to outdoor enthusiasts who favor boutique resorts rather than gapyear partiers in search of the cheapest bunks.

Don’t be fooled though, despite the crackdown, Vang Vieng is still a party town. After spending a few days there, I couldn’t help but wonder, “How hard did Vang Vieng party before it was post-party?”

What made the otherwise sleepy town a must-stop on the Southeast Asia backpacker party circuit was bar hopping via inner tubes down the Nam Song River. During its heyday in 2011, there were as many as 20 bars operating along the river. With such a concentration of Beerlao tallboys, brimming buckets of Long Islands, and shots of Lao-Lao whiskey, the flow of alcohol likely surpassed that of the river. These days, a government-enforced quota system limits boozing choices to five bars on any single day. The ramshackle, open-

Partying isn’t limited to the river. There are plenty of places to get “happy” in Vang Vieng while staying dry. Upon ordering a Beerlao at TwinTone Bar*, I was presented with the Happy Menu. Specialties of the house included pure weed joints, weed bags, opium joints, mushrooms, mushroom tea, and space pizza.

The special of the day appeared to be a baking

Sakura Bar, I had not been aware that rural Laos had a ladyboy population. There I was at closing time, outside the bar on the puddled dirt road politely turning down lurid sexual offers from a pair of Laos’ finest ladyboys. I also encountered a particularly odd and unexpected business model in Vang Vieng: Friends Bars. Apparently it is a thing in Vang Vieng for groups of partiers

opium. From amongst all the beer pong, druggy dances, and shot-gunning of beers, a party hero emerged: a stocky, masculine Australian male with a penchant for flamboyantly feminine tights. Vomiting after shot-gunning a tall boy of Beerlao, he immediately opened another and lit a cigarette. He proved himself worthy of those pink tights splattered with golden wats.

To fan the flames of drunkenness, the riverside bars provide free shots of the cheap and potent Lao-Lao whiskey. The resourceful Laotian bar operators, mostly young women with sleeping babies in slings upon their backs, recruit particularly gregarious foreigners as volunteer party catalysts. One such inebriation enabler - a bikini-clad redhead sporting equal portions body paint and river mud - deemed me a pussy from beneath her tacky, green plastic Beerlao visor when I refused her free shot.

It was time for me to continue downstream

tray full of hashish fresh out of the oven. The bar also featured a communal lighter affixed to a support beam – a ganja bar’s answer to a bank’s pen on a cord. The Irish bartender, who summed up his nine-year Vang Vieng residency with “I’m not dead yet,” discussed potential uses of a recently purchased drone.

He daydreamed of utilizing it to deliver joints and then subsequently busting the same customers for smoking them. Vang Vieng expats aren’t afraid to dream big.

Wandering through the dusty town center, it became apparent that a majority of the twentysomething party set were wearing identical sleeveless t-shirts. They all brazenly declared “Drink Triple, See Double, Act Single.” The most notorious watering hole in town, Sakura Bar, bequeaths these wife-beaters upon those who purchase a pair of vodka drinks. Not one to limit themselves, the bar also offered balloons of nitrous oxide to inhale. Until my evening at

to recline around a low table watching endless reruns of Friends while they recover from their collective hangovers and highs.

Despite all the debauchery, Vang Vieng did appear to be post-party. Calm, uncrowded, and welcoming, with not much open after midnight, Bangkok’s Khao San Road it is not.

Enjoying a pure weed joint, Beerlao, and reggae music while people-watching from TwinTone Bar, the only thing lacking may be the actual people to watch. It was often several minutes between ladyboys and wayward river tubers shuffling past. My last evening in Vang Vieng, just when it seemed too late for any tubers to remain on the river, out of the darkness appeared a sole female. She slowly trudged up the dirt road trailing a streak of mud behind her from her still wet inner tube. This lone young woman returning disoriented, dripping wet, and barefoot from her river float drug odyssey is my lasting image of Vang Vieng.

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air pubs lack the most basic of amenities, such as running water and flushing toilets, but they do possess booming sound systems fit for any urban club. Arriving at one raucous bar sober in the debilitating midday heat and humidity, I found it difficult to interact with any of the partiers. They all seemed to be high on varying cocktails of marijuana, mushrooms, and

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 73

*Not the bar’s real name

Edited by Steve Smith photo@groovekorea.com)

PH OTOSH OP

Groove Korea welcomes PhotoShop. This section brings some of those special shots from our very own GK photographers to give you a snapshot into their world…

Photographer: Christopher Saint Germain PhotoShop: Seraphim Website: www.DaVinciPhotos.net PhotoShop-grapher: Christopher Saint

Germain is a surreal portrait and headshot photographer who is the founder and owner of Da Vinci Photo Studios. Christopher enjoys teaching photography and conducting lighting workshops. After completing his first photo course in 1987, the photographer opened his first studio and started working as a photojournalist in 2012.

PhotoShop Critique: "Seraphim" was a photo

taken on Christmas Day 2015, and represents a watcher in the clouds looking over the actions of the world below. Seraphim stood above Him, each having six wings: with two, he covered his face and with two, he covered his feet and with two, he flew (Isiah 6:2)”.

Photographer: Steve Smith PhotoShop: Rain Walker and NYC from Brooklyn Website: www.CompassHeadingPhotography.com PhotoShop-grapher: New Photo Editor, Steve Smith showcases his favorite photographic genre in these selections: street and emotive black and white. He also delves into landscapes when the mood strikes… and into everything else between being the main photo guy at GK.

Photoshop Critique 1: “The black and white

shot was taken just outside of Seojeong-ri station. My initial interest was the walker, far ahead.. If I waited much longer, she would walk out of the framing set by the lights and stores. When I took the shot I was amazed by how the streetlights had “exploded” in the rain.

It was like opening a present”.

74 www.groovekorea.com May 2016

Photoshop Critique 2: “The color shot is the one I’d wanted to do with neutral density filters. Taken on a quiet morning, this minutelong exposure smooths the waters and creates the hint of motion in the clouds for an unusually peaceful view of NYC”

May 2016 www.groovekorea.com 75

Edited by Steve Smith photo@groovekorea.com)

PH OTOSH OP

LISTINGS

Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul

Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries.

6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500

French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180

Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS

FAMILY & KIDS

Jin Air 1600-6200

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

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Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age.

A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com AMUSEMENT PARKS Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book?

(02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr

UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

ANIMAL HOSPITALS Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

HAIR & JOY Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”

Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean.

National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture.

Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals.

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do

Trained at TONI & GUY and VIDAL SASSOON Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243

HAIR&JOY

Mapo-gu Dong gyo-dong 168-3_ 3F Seven Uniqlo Springs

www.hairandjoy.com Gangnam groove ads.pdf 1 Apgujeong Branch

QUNOHAIR

19/01/2016 17:14:37 Phone 02.549.0335

Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

www.qunohair.com

10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

DRAMA

ART MUSIC

Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays.

SERVICE

Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul C The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art.

M 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and ChuseokY holidays.

SPORT

COMMUNITY

CM

Plateau MY (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul CY 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays.

ACADEMIC

CMY

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

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HonhIk Univ. Stn. Line2 Exit8

FRIENDSHIP

Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

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