Groove Korea_ October 2018

SINCE 2006

KOREA • Issue 140 • October 2018

Haebangchon Fest groovekorea.com

/groovekorea

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SINCE 2006

KOREA • Issue 140 • October 2018

ABOUT THE COVER

OCTOBER 2018

In its 13th year, HBC Fest has returned with more music, more drinks and more fun. Keep reading for all the info you need for this fall’s fest.

Cover Illustration by Priscilla Dayandante (@ohwelladays) Haebangchon Fest groovekorea.com

/groovekorea

COVER STORY

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Local fest returns for second edition in 13th year

ERRATUM 2

In the September issue of Groove Korea, the mental health column Deserting Yourself was not properly attributed.

This was written by Jiaying Lim, a licensed clinical and registered psychologist at Couchology, a private practice in Seoul, South Korea, that provides English psychological services. For more information, visit their website at https://www.couchology.com or like Couchology at https://www.facebook.com/couchology

주최・주관

예매

TICKET.YES24.COM

TICKET.INTERPARK.COM

1544-6399

1544-1555

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OCTOBER 2018

COMMUNITY

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A NIGHT OF GATSBY GLAMOUR Global Seoul Mates brings back Gatsby glamour

FILM

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K-FASHION

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A FINE LINE Former car designer embraces new life in fashion

FOOD & DRINK

THE BIFF EXPERIENCE A rundown of the top films playing at BIFF 2018

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A CAFE FOR ARTISTS More than just a cup of coffee

K-FASHION

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PASSION FOR SELF-EXPRESSION Russian model leaves the comfort of home for adventure

TRAVEL

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TAAL: HERITAGE TOWN IN THE PHILIPPINES Take a walk through a historial town in the Philippines

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KOREA

Advertising

ads@groovekorea.com

General Inquiries

info@groovekorea.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF EMMA KALKA

emma@groovekorea.com

EDITORIAL GIL COOMBE

gil@groovekorea.com

JILL ROBBINS

jill@groovekorea.com

ZEV D. BLUMENFELD DANIEL KIM DIANNE PINEDA-KIM

zev@groovekorea.com photo@groovekorea.com dianne@groovekorea.com

ART & DESIGN CESS RODRIGUEZ

cess@groovekorea.com

STRIKE COMMUNICATIONS SPECIAL THANKS TO Priscilla Dayandante, Becky White, Dianne Pineda-Kim, Joosung Park, Hal of BURN cigar lounge, Ted Kim, Svetlana Zhdanova , Jeongmin (@a_picdiary), Jina Choi of WooLee Enterprise, Lance Reegan-Diehl, Malcolm Luke, Linus Kim, Ryan Gossel of Camarata Music Studio, Wahid Naciri of Casablanca Sandwiches, Johnny of Rabbit Hole, Alex Illich of Phillies, MJ Kim of Hair of The Dog, Tobias Jerling of The Workshop, Reza Carr of The Hidden Cellar, Eddie & Jay Hwang of Boogie Woogie, Jung Sun-ho, Wendy Paloma, Global Seoul Mates, Simon McEnteggert, and Busan International Film Festival PUBLISHER SEAN CHOI

sean@groovekorea.com

To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editors. To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com.

To promote and event or share your opinions, please email info@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

The articles are the sole property of GROOVE KOREA. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE KOREA. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. © All rights reserved Groove Korea 2006

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Festivals 8

Jinju Namgang Yudeung (Lantern) Festival

GimjE Horizon Festival

Mokpo Port Festival

October 1-14 Jinju Namgang River Jinju Namgang Yudeung Festival originates from the lantern lighting custom used during the Jinjuseong Fortress Battle of the Imjinwaeran War (Japanese invasion, 1592) as a military strategy to prevent Japanese troops from wading the Namgang River. The highlights of the festival are the floating of lanterns carrying personal wishes of the citizens along the Namgang River, and the parade of lanterns created by the students themselves.

October 5-9 Buryang-myeon, Gimje-si The festival aims to show the importance of Korea’s farming culture, which is a foundation of the nation, with the theme of sky and land meeting at the horizon.

October 5-7 Samhakdo Island, Mokpo-si Since Mokpo opened its port in 1897, it has played an important role in trading and as a transportation hub.

Mokpo Port Festival is held to preserve and promote the forgotten ocean culture.

Suwon Hwaseong Cultural Festival

Seoul International Fireworks Festival

October 5-7 Hwaseong Haenggung Palace, Suwon-si Suwon Hwaseong Cultural Festival is held throughout Hwaseong Fortress, a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site built to commemorate King Jeongjo’s filial piety and dream for national prosperity and military power. vvFestival programs include King Jeongjo’s procession to the royal tombs, jinchanyeon for Hyegeonggung Hong (the 60th Birthday Feast for King Jeongjo’s mother), art performances, a lighting festival and

October 6 Fireworks teams from around the world are invited to perform fireworks displays and to light up the Yeouinaru Station (Seoul Subway Line 5), Exit 4.

Yeouido Station (Seoul Subway Line 5, 9), Exit 5.

Imsil N Cheese Festival October 6-9 Imsil Cheese Village, Imsil-gun Imsil is home to the first cheese-production company in Korea. In celebration of cheese, Imsil N Cheese Festival is held every October, with various performances, cooking competitions using cheese, pizza making, cheese making experience, grass slides and more family-fun activities.

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Festivals 10

Itaewon Icheon Rice Global Village Cultural Festival Festival October 13-14 The festival brings together a fun mix of Korean traditions and foreign cultures and stands out as one of the most internationally diverse celebrations of Seoul.

October 17-21 Seoulbong Park, Icheon-si Famous for producing the best quality rice in Korea, the Icheon Rice Culture Festival celebrates its famous rice and also the local agricultural practices.

Sunchang Fermented Food Festival

Busan Fireworks Festival

October 19-21 Sunchang Gochujang Village, Sunchang-gun Sunchang, a town famous for its citizens’ longevity and for the production of jang (food paste), holds Sunchang Fermented Food Festival every year. Traditional outdoor performances, percussion performances, and Sunchang gochujang making will take place, as well as a local specialty fair and a Sunchang gochujang cooking competition.promote the forgotten ocean culture.

October 24 Gwangalli Beach, Busan Sunchang Gochujang Village, Sunchang-gun The festival’s diverse programs of cultural events, high-tech laser light shows, and myriad of unique and colorful fireworks make this one of the area’s most popular festivals, drawing crowds of over 1 million visitors each year.

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CONCERTS 12

Sam Smith

KYGO

October 9 Gocheok Sky Dome

October 30 Olympic Park

Jarasum International Jazz Festival October 12-14 Jarasum Island, Gapyeong Curtis Stigers with The Jazz Ambassadors Orchestra, Pablo Ziegler Trio, The Blind Boys of Alabama, Carla Bley Trio, Etienne Mbappe & The Prophets, and more.

Zandari Festa October 4-7 Hongdae area Korea’s largest indie music festival showcasing 100+ international and local musicians

Seoul Forest Jazz Festival

HBC Fall Music Festival

October 6-7 Seoul Forest, Seongsu-dong, Seoul

October 19-20 Haebangchon area 40+ live bands playing at 12+ venues in Haebangchon area.

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EXHIBITIONS 14

Beyond Folding Screens October 3 December 23 Amore Pacific Museum of Art, Yongsan, Seoul

Kim Chung-up Dialogue Until December 16 Gwacheon Gallery, MMCA The first large scale exhibition tracing back Kim Chungup, a legendary figure in Korean modern arhitect.

What Ought to Be Done?

Work and Life: Artist Harun Farocki October 27 – April 2019 Seoul Gallery, MMCA

Kenny Scharf: Super pop universe Until March 2019 LOTTE Museum of Art, Lotte World Tower LMA presents an exhibition of Kenny Scharf, a living legend of Pop Art whose ingenious works incorporate social messages through animated characters in science fiction settings, as inspired by the fast-growing pop culture of 1970s New York. It is the first-ever grand-scale exhibition to feature over 100 works by Kenny Scharf, including his paintings, sculptures, drawings and videos. Scharf, along with other artists such as Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat, helped cement the Golden Age of 1970s Pop Art Movement, a concept introduced by Andy Warhol a decade earlier. The current exhibition is an opportunity to experience anew the beginning of a new artistic era from 1970s in which the art stepped down from its elitism and started mingling with ordinary life.

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MOVIES 16

Venom

A Star Is Born

Tom Hardy Michelle Williams

Bradley Cooper Lady Gaga

KIN Myles Truitt Jack Reynor Dennis Quaid James Franco

Death Wish

First Man

Bruce Willis

Ryan Gosling Claire Foy

Film Stars Don’t Die in Liverpool Annette Bening Jamie Bell

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COVER STORY: STORY HBC FEST 2018

Local Fest for

local folks Story EMMA KALKA

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H

ae Bang Chon Fall Music Festival will take place on Oct. 19-20. This is the second installment of HBC Fest in the 13th year of the Hae Bang Chon Music Festival with a great lineup and some new additions for independent music. It has become the definitive expat and international music and performance fest in Korea. Made up entirely of independent music artists and performers from Korea and a host of other countries, the festival began in 2006 as a showcase for expat musicians in the city to perform to larger crowds. It has grown over the years from the three simple bars it was first conceived in. The ‘Fest’ was originally started by Lance Reegan-Diehl and James Gaynor.

It continues to this day under the guidance of founder Lance ReeganDiehl, owner of DEELEEBOB Music.

HBC, otherwise known as Haebangchon located in Yongsan District, is the main street where all the action happens, starting from the very bottom and going all the way to the top where Hair of the Dog is perched. The area became famous as a local expat hangout from 1998 and HBC Fest has helped the area blossom into a bubbly, busy place for all kinds of businesses to open. The festival as always adapted to the demands of both musicians and venues, with the following business either supporting or hosting gigs this year: Hair of the Dog, Phillies Pub,

COVER STORY: HBC COVER FESTSTORY 2018

Hair of the Dog Deeleebob Music

Sinhe

ung-r o

Linus BBQ aaaand Chicken

Camarata Music Studio Rabbit Hole

Bucket Beach Phillies

ung-r o 2-g

il

Casablanca Sandwiches Bedrock HBC

Sinhe

Bonny’s Pizza Pub

ng-da

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Boogie Woogie

Noks apyeo

The Hidden Cellar The Workshop

Sinhe ung-r o

Bedrock, The Cave, Bonny’s Pizza Pub, Al Matto Terrace, Camarata Music, Rabbit Hole, Casablanca Sandwiches, Morococo, The Workshop, Hidden Cellar and Boogie Woogie.

Phillies, Camarata, Bedrock and Boogie Woogie will host bands that perform on larger stages and the sound ranges from blues to rock, jazz and all types of funky in between. The festival is known for up-close, small venues and the intimate feeling you get from watching a variety of people perform.

Local bands taking part include Reasco, Cutty The Beagles, The Coals, Batu, Park’s Blues Band, Rough Cuts, DND, Rooftop Stray and TRAP. A host of solo and smaller acoustic acts will hit the stage at Hair of the Dog, Hidden Cellar, The Workshop, Phillies balcony and The Cave.

While safety in large numbers is always a concern. There has never been a single fest related accident or incident with cars and people during the entire run of the fest over 13 years.

There are now sidewalks in the area outside of all fest venues, and everyone is free to walk from bar to bar without tape lines or traffic issues. The festival is provided by local business owners who support it and give independent artists a place to play.

The HBC Festival is a DEELEEBOB Music Production. The central point between artists, venues and business owners. Music sponsors include Sound Drive Amplifiers, Swing Guitars, Graphtech Guitar Parts, Olympia Strings and Straps, along with all participating business owners and beer vendors.

The festival begins on Friday, Oct. 19 with four to five venues hosting some live acts. On Saturday, Oct. 20, there will be live music from 4 p.m. to the wee hours, with the last act on at 1 a.m., at 10 venues.

Entry to this music festival is free and t-shirts are available for 15,000 won to help support the festival.

For more details, including an updated schedule and list of performers, please visit the main website www.hbcfest.com and there is an event page on Facebook, which directs you to the schedule on the website. >>

DEELEEBOB Music - HBC Festival • 47-B1, Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea, 140-842 • EMAIL: sales@deeleebob.com • CONTACT : LANCE REEGAN-DIEHL

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COVER STORY: STORY HBC FEST 2018

HAIR OF THE DOG Where everyone knows your name

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ucked in a corner just up the hill in HBC is a little bar with a lot of familiar faces. Which is exactly the concept that owner MJ Kim had in mind when she opened Hair of the Dog. “I came up here to open this and thinking just a little, cozy neighborhood pub that everybody can just walk in and everybody knows your name,” she said. “This area is becoming up and trendy, but I wanted to have a space for local people who can just easily come in and meet up with friendly faces.”

Hair of the Dog is certainly cozy and quaint. There’s a menu with a small selection of sandwiches – something she says was one of her most popular dishes at the American-style diner she owned previously – and it is well known for its Monday Wing Night. Kim adds that they had some of the cheaper cocktails in the area, as well as mulled cider and affordable house wine.

“Some people kind of joke about my place being an old man’s bar,” Kim said while laughing. Mostly because of the music they usually play, she adds. Usually they have on 50s, 60s and 70s music and usually classic rock and roll. “We don’t usually have specific music that we stick to, but definitely not top 40.”

The bar has taken part in HBC Fest since its opening in 2015. Kim says the acts they typically have are acoustic and either solo artists or duos because of size, which is what they are expecting this year.

HOURS: CLOSED ON TUESDAYS • WEEKDAYS – 7 PM TO 1 AM WEEKENDS – 7 PM TO 2/3 AM WEEKLY EVENTS: Monday Wing Night

HAIR OF THE DOG: Featuring live acoustic music, a very cozy place, with excellent food. Featured Acts: Whitney Soul, Peter Daley, Pounamu.

Contact: M.J. Kim

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COVER STORY: HBC COVER FESTSTORY 2018

RABBIT HOLE A place of wonder

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hile there is certainly no shortage of interesting bars in Haebangcheon, there is certainly none like Rabbit Hole.

Owner Johnny said he started it two years to try something new and different.

So, he filled the basement bar that has played home to a number of drag and burlesque shows with over 200 arcade and video games that patrons can play for free.

What’s more, every Saturday night Rabbit Hole hosts its own live drag show.

At the time they started it, the only drag shows took place around 3 am on Homo Hill in Itaewon. However, Rabbit Hole wanted to do something a bit earlier.

At first, they attached it to viewings of Ru Paul’s Drag Race, but now host the shows on their own, starting around 9 or 10 pm each weekend. As such, Johnny says another thing that makes Rabbit Hole unique is that it’s a gay-friendly establishment.

The bar usually plays pop or whatever music customers wish to hear. They can make requests or change it, with music videos often projected up on the wall. With electric pink lights and a fun vibe, Rabbit Hole at times can make one feel as though they’ve actually gone down the famous rabbit hole from Alice in Wonderland.

Their signature drinks are their Pokemon cocktails. They have about four or five available, each tailored after a Pokemon.

They also have a full bar with everyone’s favorites, like Fireball whisky.

While Rabbit Hole will not officially host any bands during HBC Fest, they will have their regular drag show on Saturday night during the festival.

HOURS Open Tuesday through Saturday Weekdays: 8 PM To 3/4 AM Friday & Saturday: 7 PM To 4/5 AM

RABBIT HOLE: A pub that has various video games, and is well known for the weekend shows. Rabbit hole has hosted bands at the fest before, and acoustic acts.

Featured Acts: This festival features a drag show and song and dance review that can be enjoyed by anyone. Contact: Johnny

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COVER STORY: STORY HBC FEST 2018

CAMARATA MUSIC STUDIO

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he Camarata Music Company is a registered non-profit organization that creates global communities through the universal language of music, by providing collaborative performance opportunities for musicians of all nationalities residing in Korea. Led by conductor and artist-in-director, Dr. Ryan Goessl, the organization presents opportunities for the public to hear classical music performed by people from many different cultures and nationalities 97 countries from six continents have been represented since 2009.

Camarata Music is committed to providing music opportunities and experiences for everyone, no matter their skill level. It is the company’s mission to prove that everyone can sing, regardless of experience, with the correct instruction. By doing so, Camarata Music brings together a family of musicians, all striving for the same common goal: to experience music at the highest levels, together with friends from all over the globe.

Dr. Goessl works very closely with all the leaders and volunteers in the organization to achieve the goal of creating high-level artistry, while experiencing the beauty and friendships created in preparation.

He collaborates regularly with top conductors and musicians in Korea and abroad, regularly lectures on various music topics at conventions and festivals and collaborates often with other musicians and ensembles.

These experiences further the mission of Camarata Music: Creating Global

Communities Through the Universal Language of Music.

Under the company, the group also has Camarata Musical Theatre, Camarata Chorale, Camarata Chamber Singers, Camarata Youth Choirs, and the Camarata Chamber Orchestra. They have performed such productions as The Pirates of Penzance, Little Shop of Horrors, Oklahoma!, Handel’s Messiah, Faure’s Requiem, Fanshawe’s African Sanctus and Bach’s B Minor Mass, among others.

CAMARATA MUSIC STUDIO: Known for the classical music and the choir practices heard in HBC. Notable plays are the Wizard of Oz, and the Pops concerts every year. Featured Acts: Stranded Alien, Honey Jam Sam. Contact: Ryan Gossel

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Story and Photos CAMARATA MUSIC COMPANY

A choir of diversity

COVER STORY: HBC COVER FESTSTORY 2018

Casablanca & Morococo Casual Moroccan that doesn’t break the bank

N

ot all venues involved with HBC Fest necessarily host bands or musicians. Sometimes being an HBC Fest venue is just about providing some noms in between sets.

Casablanca and Morococo, owned by Wahid Naciri, are such venues. Naciri said that he’s been involved with HBC Fest since Day One, hosting acoustic acts at his sandwich shop Casablanca just a couple months after they opened the doors. The second year, he said they played host to a burlesque performance.

“We used to have acoustic because the space is really small. Then we found out that Casablanca gets really crazy on festival days and that’s not really good for the bands or the customers,” he said. “Of course, we still sponsor the festival and everything. But we’re more like, this is where you should go eat… we’re really happy to have as our show, the sandwich show.”

Naciri first opened Casablanca eight years ago after wanting to have a middle ground between expensive sit-down restaurants that provided Moroccan food for 20,000 won a plate and kebabs sold from trucks for 3,500 won.

“I wanted something in the middle.

Like, affordable. You eat it and you’re done. It’s more like a meal, but casual and doesn’t break your wallet,” he said.

Casablanca focuses on sandwiches, though in the beginning he had hoped to add more items to the menu. However, it became clear that sandwiches were what people wanted. So, when the opportunity came to expand, Naciri took the chance and opened up Morococo across the street. The second restaurant has a more sit-down, dining experience, but both are Moroccan-based. Naciri spent two years in culinary school and applies the French

cooking techniques in both restaurants.

He said on a regular day, they play a variety of music – in Casablanca lately it’s been mulatu statke from Ethiopia and in Morococo it’s gnawa, a fusion of subSaharan and Moroccan music. As for signature dishes, Naciri admits that it’s different for different people and most customers have their favorites.

“If you like chicken, the Moroccan Chicken with preserved lemon marinated in spices. If you like lamb, the lamb chili is very good. The spiced shrimp if you like something spicier,” he said.

HOURS Both are opened Tuesdays through Sunday.

Casablanca: 12 to 9 pm Morococo: 12 to 9:30 pm; Bar is OPEN UNTIL 10 PM.

CASABLANCA SANDWICHES: Great food, always friendly staff. The owner loves HBC fest, and they simply support the event, along with their second shop Morococo.

Contact: Wahid

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COVER STORY: STORY HBC FEST 2018

PHILLIES The center of HBC Fest

The center of HBC Fest

T

he mainstay of HBC Fest is none other than Phillies.

The bar has been around since 1998 and is currently in its fifth iteration along the main street of Haebangcheon. More than that, the bar has been hosting bands during the fest since it started. Usually some of the bigger bands in the fest will play both upstairs and downstairs.

According to co-owner Alexander Illich, the whole idea behind Phillies was to have a place for the locals.

“The whole concept of the bar is to try and keep it a neighborhood watering hole, alive and ready for the people who live in Haebangchon, which is originally a foreign neighborhood. A place where everyone can go every day,” Illich said.

As such, the signatures drinks are beer and shots, while the most popular dishes are your normal bar food affair. Illich says to come by and have a philly cheesesteak sandwich or a burger, while listening to rock from the 80s, 90s and early 2000s.

Though he does admit that if you hear a certain 90/2000s boy band playing, it means that the party is on.

“If you come in here, you know there’s a party when Backstreet Boys is on. That’s when you know you’re going to get really, really, really sloppy,” he said with a laugh.

Along with that, the bar as weekly specials – Mondays are Joker Jackpot, Taco Tuesday, Quiz Night on Wednesdays, Wing Night on Thursday, and Mart Night on Fridays. For Joker Jackpot, buy a drink and get a ticket with the chance to win up to 1 million won or a bottle. Mart Night has three platinum’s or four beers for 10,000 won.

HOURS Monday through Friday: Opens at 6 PM Saturday/Sunday: Opens at 2 PM Closing: As early as 12 AM or as late as 5 AM (usually 1 or 2 AM) PHILLIES PUB: Two floors of talent running for both dates. Phillies has been the central pub in HBC for over 20 years and is the center of HBC Fest.

Featured Acts: Upstairs is live solo acoustic acts featuring EARL, Jeniffer Waescher, and Kenji Onizuka from Japan. Downstairs is a full on rock n roll stage with the Lance Reegan-Diehl Band (L.R.D. Band) along with Cargo Cult and Cutty at 10 p.m Contact: Jim Cuthberson

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COVER STORY: HBC COVER FESTSTORY 2018

BUCKET BEACH New kid on the block

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ucket Beach may be one of the newer editions to the Haebangcheon lineup and venues for HBC Fest, but it’s certainly ready to play host to bands.

Located next to Phillies – and owned by the some of the same folks – the bar seeks to bring something to HBC that was missing. According to coowner Alexander Illich, that was to bring Itaewon to HBC so that locals wouldn’t need to go over to the nearby neighborhood.

True to its name, the bar specializes in buckets, offering four-drink, sixdrink and even up to 10-drink buckets, as well as hookah. In the early evenings, they try to keep the vibe down, often playing R&B and light rock. But as the evening progresses, they switch to dance music, with synth wave, deep house and sometimes drum and bass, with the occasional guest DJ. The bar also has 1 + 1 Student Bucket nights, and the last Saturday

of every month, they do an All You Can Drink Buckets for 20,000 won.

For HBC Fest, they will host a variety of bands, but plan to have some of the bigger highlights of the festival playing there.

HOURS Open Tuesday through Sunday Open: 7 pm Close: 4 to 5 am or later

BUCKET BEACH: The newest venue to enter the HBC Arena. Bucket will consist of some live music along with their own DJ music running on into the night.

Featured acts, Christian Whelan, Tim Gilmour Contact: Alex Illich

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COVER STORY: STORY HBC FEST 2018

BONNY'S PIZZA A popular little pizza joint

A

sk anyone what they may know about HBC, and it’s highly likely that someone will mention Bonny’s Pizza. Opening in 2011, it’s a mainstay of the area with a line to get in snaking down the side street on a daily basis.

When asked just what his secret or business plan is for success, owner Malcolm Luke just laughs.

“The secret is, there’s no business plan,” he said. “Just a complete accident.”

He opened Bonny’s to fill a gap in the market for a sports bar where commonwealth expats or just those interested in anglo sports like cricket and rugby could go watch games. And then about the 18-month mark, he started seeing a shift in his clientele. Where once there were only commonwealth expats,

suddenly tons of young Koreans started filling the tables.

“It’s kind of ironic because you probably couldn’t get – as far as demographics go – you couldn’t get much further than these two people.

Fat, drunk Kiwis watching rugby and young Korean girls out with their friends or on dates on Saturday afternoon,” he said.

He continues that the signature dish is the Pepperoni Hawaiian half/ half pizza, which makes up about 60 percent of their sales. As for drinks, since it is a sports pub, they mostly sell beer with Blue Moon and Big Wave being popular.

The tunes most likely to be heard are top 100, though Luke said that if he’s

a bit hungover on a Sunday, he may just put on Billy Joel or Bob Dylan.

The restaurant has taken part in HBC Fest for years, though this time Luke has said that he’s asked for a bit of a different type of musician to play. In the past, there’s been a few “moderate little disasters” with bands – namely those playing things like heavy metal during dinner and scaring off customers.

This year, he’s asked for something more acoustic as most of his patrons aren’t even aware that a music festival is going on.

“I told Lance that my ideal act is someone just up here doing Adele covers or they’re strumming them out.

It doesn’t have to be professional quality, just background acoustic music,” he said.

HOURS Tuesday-Friday: 12:30 to 10 pm Saturday: 11:30 am to 10 pm Sunday: 11:30 am to 8 pm

THE CAVE (BONNY’S PIZZA): The Cave always a close fit rowdy little acoustic pub as the night goes on. Great food, good place to fill up on a few import beers and pizza, with a large helping of guitar driven rootsy rockin music. Featured Acts: Tony Hall, and Highway 9. Contact: Malcom

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LINUS BBQ AAAAND CHICKEN

COVER STORY: HBC COVER FESTSTORY 2018

taste oflittle homepizza joint AApopular

HOURS Open Daily: Monday-Thursday – 5 to 10 pm Friday – 5 to 10:30 pm, with the bar open to 2 am Saturday – 12 to 10:30 pm, with the bar open to 2 am Sunday – 12 to 10 pm

T

o say that Linus BBQ…Aaand Chicken brings a little bit of home to HBC would be an understatement.

The restaurant which opened last fall has all the true fixings of classic Americana from the décor, to the food, to even the music that is usually playing.

It’s the second location for the popular ‘Bama style barbecue joint, but this one offers something a bit different from the original store in Itaewon, according to owner Linus Kim. “This is technically a chicken restaurant. A smoked chicken restaurant.

But this is mostly where I do a lot of experimental things,” Kim said. They also have sausage on the menu and he is planning to add smoked pot pies in the near future. He adds that the menu here is actually bigger than the one in Itaewon.

“The vibe is so chill. And I love HBC cause it’s a village. It’s total village life.

I love that you can just walk down the street and you’re always bumping into people,” he continues. “Just neighborhood-y, chicken with a strong classic bar. If you want to have it down to a bitesize soundbite.”

He chose HBC for his second restaurant partially because it is close to the first, but also because he knew that the area was about to undergo a bit of a transformation. He had been looking at the building for a couple years and then the owner said he could do whatever he wanted with the space, so he got it and started “knocking down walls.”

Linus BBQ… Aaand Chicken opened up quietly about a year ago, which Kim said was intentional. He wanted his workers to have the winter to make mistakes quietly and get their chops. He didn’t even put up a sign outside until a couple months ago.

The place is obviously known for its barbecue, with Kim saying their signature dish would be the smoked chicken platter.

They also have a collection of tiki cocktails with names such as Spicy Pee Pee. But what Kim said he always urges people to try are their standard, classic cocktails.

“And I know there’s a lot of people who may not like those drinks, but I recommend – I really urge people to try them again for the first time here,” he said. “Cause we make them down to the tee.”

The restaurant joined HBC Fest for the first-time last year and Kim said when they open up the front, the whole place becomes like an amphitheater with music spilling out into the street – and garnering some noise complaints from neighbors. Last time, while they fit all the artists in the lineup in, they were shut down by 9 pm. He said they are doing what they can to try and avoid that this time around.

LINUS BBQ AAAND CHICKEN: Good food, good drinks and good vibes. This place turns into an amphitheater during HBC Fest.

Contact: Linus Kim

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COVER STORY: STORY HBC FEST 2018

THE WORKSHOP An industrial beer garden

T

he Workshop, one of the first bars one comes across on the main drag of Haebangcheon, was originally meant to be just a pop-up when it opened three and a half years ago in what used to be a car shop. But the popularity of the spot convinced owners Tobias Jerling and Reza Carr to make it a standing bar just a few months in.

Now it’s become a popular spot among locals, with many clamoring for the bar’s burger menu, which they started about six months ago.

The most popular is the Saffa Burger, which contains South African dried beef. Both Jerling and Carr are from South Africa and wanted to introduce something that contained a taste of home.

During the spring and summer the bar hosts barbeques on the weekends – they have a grill on the patio – and Carr said they plan to keep it up for at least one more weekend, though as soon as the weather starts turning cold, they’ll shut it down until it warms up.

The bar serves a range of beers and cocktails, along with wine, though the most popular drink is their Moscow Mule.

Carr said that The Workshop tends to play a lot of classic rock, though they try to keep a range of music going and sometimes take requests from customers. They also have regular live shows – usually twice a month. The bar can’t host large bands as it is open and can cause noise complaints. During HBC Fest they tend to have solo acoustic artists that play in a corner.

Weekly specials include Rib Night on Wednesdays (7,000 won), Burger Nights on Thursdays (7,000 won) and Wing Night on Fridays (10 wings for 10,000 won).

HOURS Open Daily: 6 pm to 12 am

THE WORKSHOP: Always an open air venue feel with excellent food to top it off. The acoustic acts play in the corner of the front room, and the patrons blare back with their conversation and participation in the performers various styles and collections of songs. Featured performance by Jonathan Hunt, MaxMandu.

Contact: Tobias Jerling

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COVER STORY: HBC COVER FESTSTORY 2018

HIDDEN CELLAR A cozy haven of wine and beer

I

t could It could be easy to miss Hidden Cellar. Located in a basement underneath a parking garage just behind the Workshop, you have to look down the alley just to see the sign.

The idea behind the bar when it initially opened just over five years ago was for it to be a liquor store with the option of letting people stick around and drink in a cozy atmosphere or take it home, according to co-owner Reza Carr. But after a few months it became obvious that folks wanted to stay, so it became a full-on bar.

Hidden Cellar features a large collection of bottled craft beer, that is self-serve, and wine. Carr said their signatures drinks tend to be wine – which is sold on tap so folks can order a carafe for 22,000 won – and the Midori Sour. It shares a kitchen and menu with The Workshop upstairs, but the most popular dish tends to be the Lamb and Pasty Pie. Carr said they try to keep a range of music playing – usually anything with the exception of perhaps K-pop.

Anything from hip-hop to R&B, and acoustic covers. They take requests and often leave music up to the bartenders working that night, just so they aren’t sticking to the same music all the time.

Weekly specials include Rib Night on Wednesdays, Burger Night on Thursdays and Wing Night on Fridays.

Also, on Thursdays, they have a jazz and wine night, with wine going for 3,500 won a glass. Every other Sunday, Hidden Cellar hosts an Open Mic. Because of the venue size, they can only host acoustic or solo acts, which is what folks can expect during HBC Fest.

HOURS Weekdays – 6 pm to 12 am Weekends – 6 pm to 1 am

HIDDEN CELLAR: Down to the cellar, where the late night of heavy acoustic rock and folk can be found. Pool table in the back, and live stage up front help HC support acoustic solo acts and acoustic bands with up to 3 members. As well HC has an ongoing open mic, which has been one of the longest standby’s in HBC for live stage. Featured Acts: Aircraft of the Month, and Seth Mountain. Contact: Reza Carr

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COVER STORY: STORY HBC FEST 2018

BOOGIE WOOGIE And all that jazz

T

here aren’t many places in Seoul to catch a jazz concert – even fewer that provide jazz in such a casual atmosphere. But according to Jay Hwang, manager of Boogie Woogie, that’s exactly what they do.

“The whole purpose of the bar is to let people know that jazz is a genre that everyone can associate with,” Hwang said. “We don’t charge high prices because of the music. We just want to spread the music of jazz so that people can come to the bar and feel the value of jazz.”

Open since 2016, Boogie Woogie hosts live jazz shows every weekend.

And when there aren’t lives shows, they stick to playing jazz, soul and R&B. “This place tries to make it feel more comfortable, so more people will come.

And that’s why a lot of different ages come in and visit,” he said. “Because it’s really easy to communicate and feel open to the genre.”

The bar specializes in quality cocktails, with their signature being their Old Fashioned. Every day of the week they have Happy Hour from 6-8 pm with 30 percent off drinks. Every Friday and Saturday has live shows from 11 pm to 1 am.

For HBC Fest, they will be the only venue hosting jazz bands.

HOURS Open Monday through Sunday Open: 6 pm Close: 3 am, but sometimes 5 am on the weekend.

BOOGIE WOOGIE: In KyungliDan the owners have always favored HBC Fest and they are friends of the organizer. Mainly Jazz, with a bit of blues. Boogie Woogie always supports the HBC Fest and has their schedule taking part in the overall event. Contact: Eddie Hwang

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COVER STORY

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COVER STORY

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COVER STORY

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COMMUNITY

A NIGHT OF

ATSBY LAMOUR

Latest Gatsby Yacht Party brings back the Roarin’ 20s

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COMMUNITY

Story EMMA KALKA Photos GLOBAL SEOUL MATES

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ven if it was just for one night, folks got a taste of the Roaring 20s in all their glory - from the blaring music to the flowing giggle water, with all the ritz, raucous behavior, and Oliver Twists that one would expect.

Global Seoul Mates held their second annual Gatsby Yacht Party on September 22, attracting about ___ to Seoul Marina on the Han River. While at times overwhelming, with four levels of entertainment that included live performances, DJs, bands, singing, and even some gambling (not real, of course), there was certainly no shortage of things to do and see.

The highlight of the night was, as expected, the amazing 1920s fashion on display. Nearly every attendee was decked out to the nines, sporting everything from headbands to boater hats and suspenders, even furs. There were glittery flapper dresses galore and smart suits that would make even Jay Gatsby himself jealous. >>

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COMMUNITY

Party-goers twist and turn to the tunes of the Roaring 20s at Global Seoul Mates annual Gatsby Yacht Party.

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COMMUNITY

>> True to any speakeasy or ritzy 20s soiree, there was no shortage of entertainment throughout the night. Live performances by bands and singers brought the 20s alive, as did spots by local burlesque groups WhiteLies BurlesqueRevue and House Burluxe. There were group and solo routines that dazzled attendees as only the ladies could.

Many more acts entertained the crowds, such as 이짜나 어짜나, Willy, tap dancers, singer Elly, and E&E Dancers. Granted, there were plenty of DJs on all levels for those who wished to spend the night cutting a rug, playing everything from mixes of 20s favorites to today’s popular hits and hip-hop.

While a bit crowded and chaotic - and with unfortunate waits for the bathroom, which is to be expected at any party of this size - GSM certainly knows how to plan a party, especially a theme party. After having to turn away a fair amount of would-be party-goers last year due to capacity constraints on the boat, they quickly sought out a new venue for the Gatsby party this year so that more could attend.

And attend they did.

With continued sharp planning and a bit of luck, next year’s Gatsby shindig is sure to be the bee’s knees as well.

But until then, be sure to check out Global Seoul Mates Haunted Factory Party 3.0 on Oct. 27 at SJ Kunsthalle. You can get more information and buy tickets on the party’s event page on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/ events/303647987083403/).

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K-FASHION : PROFILE

A FINE LINE This forward-thinking designer plays with the many intricacies, proportions, and details of fashion and faces Photographer DANNYSEOUL (@dannyseoul) Writer DIANNE PINEDA-KIM (@dianne_panda)

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PROFILE

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K-FASHION : PROFILE

T

ed Kim is a man of many transformations. He went from designing cars to clothes, and made quite a leap to designing faces.

Change is something that he embraces fully and each day, he opens his mind to the unexpected. But there is one thing he is sure of, as he says with conviction: “I am a born artist.”

A change in perspective Ted was trained in transportation design at the Art Center in Pasadena, California, before he switched to fashion design. “Although I enjoyed designing cars, there was something missing,” he muses, “My innate desire to want to make people beautiful.

I feel joy in making people look and feel great about themselves.”

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With his intrinsic talent and love for the arts, Ted pursued his dreams in fashion and honed his skills further under the tutelage of world-renowned designers Donna Karan, Michael Kors, and Anne Klein. He considers his early years working for different fashion houses as a valuable moment in his career where he was able to acquire knowledge both in the creative and business side of fashion. “Donna Karan, my first mentor, taught me almost everything I have learned in regard to having an innovative creative approach to fashion design, while I learned all the necessary skill set on how to create a successful brand from Michael Kors.”

Armed with all his valuable experiences and an intense craving to create something nobody has seen before, Ted founded his own fashion brand, RVN, where he had all the freedom to express his vision. He is inspired by anything and everything: “I get my inspirations from modern arts, ethnic patterns, cars, architectures. I get textural and print inspirations from things that majority of people might overlook and even think that’s ugly,” he shares. “For example for my F/W 2018 collection two of my most favorite prints came from a rusting wall in an old vacant factory and wire face derived from a barbed wire fence.” >>

PROFILE

“Although I enjoyed designing cars, there was something missing - my innate desire to want to make people beautiful.�

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K-FASHION : PROFILE

A sense of renewal Individuality is something that Ted wanted to protect, that is why he took a hiatus to re-focus on his identity as a fashion designer. Having achieved immense stardom in the U.S. and with his works being worn by celebrities like Beyonce, Eva Longoria, and even former First Lady Michelle Obama - Ted was caught up in the business of it all.

“As RVN grew throughout the years bigger, my creative freedom was taken away as the department stores and buyers became the goal. I needed to take a break to reset my initial motive for starting RVN.” But as soon as he got back to the scene, there is one more thing that Ted was inclined to design, and it’s the most complex, if not, most difficult subject that requires a different technique the human face. Aside from being the creative director of fashion, he has taken the same designation and as facial designer for RVN Facial Clinic. “Let’s face it. Doctors are not artists. They are not trained in that. And yet most ironic thing is that they are working with one of the most complex subject of art, which is the human face,” he explains. As a first-ever fashion brand to open facial design division, Ted hopes that he can start a “cosmetic revolution,” which is what “RVN” originally stands for.

“Doctors often make mistakes by just following trending features at the moment and giving everyone the same cookie-cutter eyes, nose, and lips, and stripping the individuality from people,” he shares. “I don’t follow ideal ratios and angles.”

Perhaps rather than a man of many changes, Ted is better off being described as a modern Renaissance man, one whose vision encompasses art, beauty, culture, while breaking free from society’s conventions. And whether in fashion or beauty, he molds a sense of harmony, uniqueness, and intricate detail in everything that he makes.

“My approach is very different as I am all about celebrating individuality and what needs to be enhanced to make the best version of each person.”

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PROFILE

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K-FASHION : PROFILE

PASSION f0r

SELF-EXPRESSION From Russia to Seoul, this model took a leap of faith to pursue her dreams

Photographer DANNYSEOUL (@dannyseoul) Writer DIANNE PINEDA-KIM (@dianne_panda) Model SVETLANA ZHDANOVA (@dirtyppaws) Makeup JEONGMIN (a picture diary @a_picdiary) Clothing RVN BY TED KIM

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PROFILE

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K-FASHION : PROFILE

“I like finding out many different things I can be good at when I get to act in cool projects that have a story.

I want to tell stories through acting.”

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PROFILE RVN

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K-FASHION : PROFILE

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PROFILE

T

he clichéd words “Follow your dreams” or “Be yourself” have different transmutations in motivational lyrics, films, or greeting cards but still carry the same meaning - and are always easier said than done. They require you to go out of your comfort zone, challenging the unfamiliar, breaking stereotypes, and perhaps leaving behind friends and family along the way. Svetlana Zhdanova, a model and aspiring actress, did just that as she left her hometown and sheltered lifestyle in Moscow, Russia, to move to Seoul to see what possibilities were there for her. With little knowledge of the culture and unable to speak Korean, the thought didn’t even cross her mind back then, until her friend told her, “Sveta, you should come to Korea. Trust me you will love it and it will become a part of your destiny, I can tell.”

Positive beginnings She followed her friend’s advice and her intuition told her that it would be a serendipitous move. “I didn’t experience that much culture shock because I lived in China for over a year,” she shares. “ But there are some things that caught me by surprise. At first I thought jokbal [a Korean dish made from pig’s feet] was disgusting, but I now think it’s great!”

Having spent barely six months in Seoul, one would expect that Sveta is still in the adjustment phase but, so far, life in this burgeoning city has been smooth sailing. Wide-eyed and filled with wonder, she recalls, “Every day, I’m learning something new here. I like watching people, trying to improve my pronunciation so that I’ll be able to sound closer to native speakers. If I can describe it in one word, this place is my Seoulmate.”

For her, experience is the best teacher and she says that it’s best to leave all prejudices behind when you move to a new place.

“Before I came here I didn’t have any expectations because I think it’s better to try everything first, and that’s when you decide what you like or don’t like,” she says. “And in the few months that I’ve lived here, I can say that I’m in love with Korean culture!”

Her true love With her crystal-blue eyes, blonde hair, and stunning features, Sveta seems like she was born to become a model, one whose face is perfect for fashion brands and TV commercials. Modeling came quite easy for her, but deep down she admits that her first and true love is acting.

“Actually, I’ve never dreamt about becoming a model,” she says, “A lot of people around me in this industry keep saying that they want to be the ‘top,’ which I never really had in mind.”

What really gets Sveta excited is when she is able to express different personalities, emotions, feelings, and images through actions. “I find that modeling is fun and it takes a lot of hard work, but sometimes it pays too much attention to beauty. I like finding out many different things I can be good at when I get to act in cool projects that have a story. I want to tell stories through acting, and I would love to do this as well in Korea.”

Infinite possibilities She may have gotten her start as a model, but her passion for acting is taking her in the right direction. This coming spring, people will be able to watch her in a documentary film she participated in called Super Shoes, which tells the story about urban explorers.

It was created in Seoul and the last scenes were filmed in Russia.

In between work, Sveta enjoys filming for her own YouTube vlog where she talks about food, places, culture, and things she loves about Korea, and everything in between. She hopes that her videos and social media posts will open people’s eyes about Korea and show everything that it has to offer.

“A lot of my friends tell me that they want to explore and experience Korea too because they’ve seen my videos. Even my aunt, who’s the most close-minded person ever, has started to change her mind when she sees and hears about my trips.”

While she discovers Korea and shoots for her goal, she hopes that people will do the same. She ends, “I’m kinda proud how things work out when you really like what you do, and when I share about it, it helps people to learn more new things.”

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FILM

The BIFF Experience Busan Film Festival Announces Stellar Lineup

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he Busan International Film Festival (BIFF), Korea’s biggest celebration of all things cinema, is due to open its doors on October 4th and will play host to 323 films from 79 countries during its spectacular 10-day run.

For the 23rd edition the enchanting port city has selected some of 2018’s most revered cinematic works alongside new emerging talent for cineastes to experience, located primarily at Centum City as well as the Haeundae area.

BIFF will open with superstar Lee Na-young’s comeback film Beautiful Days. The Korea/France production is helmed by writer/director Jéro YUN, who presents the tale of Zhen Chen,

who searches for his mother (Lee).

Yet when he discovers her fraught history as a North Korean refugee, Chen’s perspective on identity, nationality, and the plight endured by refugees he is irrevocably changed.

The Closing Film is superstar action choreographer/director YUEN Wooping’s Master Z: The Ip Man Legacy.

The martial arts tale features an all-star cast including Michelle Yeoh, Tony Jaa, and Dave Bautista, as Wing Chun expert Cheung Tin Chi challenges a local drug lord to a battle for the streets of Hong Kong.

The Gala Presentation program, renowned for highlighting Asian films of note, contains three features crafted

by very different auteurs. Cult Japanese director TSUKAMOTO Shinya’s samurai story Killing, fresh from appearing at Venice, makes an appearance as does Stanley KWON’s Hong Kong/Chinese drama First Night Nerves. The trio is rounded out with Korean relationship drama Ode to the Goose by director Lu ZHANG. There are plenty of wonderfully diverse titles for attendees to discover through the programs on offer including a special category celebrating 100 years of Philippine cinema, as well as a variety of retrospectives - however here are a selection of some of the biggest films that fans will certainly not want to miss.

ROMA (directed by Alfonso CUARON (Mexico)) Celebrated director Alfonso CUARON (Children of Men, Gravity) returns with Netflix original film Roma. The semi-autobiographical story takes place during the 1970s in Mexico City, and follows a middle class family and their housekeeper, and the events they experience. Roma premiered at Venice International Film Festival where it picked up the coveted Golden Lion Award for Best Film.

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FILM

First Man (directed by Damien CHAZELLE (USA)) Starring Ryan Gosling as Neil Armstrong, First Man follows the life of the legendary astronaut and the incredible risks and challenges taken to be the first to walk on the moon. Helmed by Damien CHAZELLE, the talent behind Whiplash and LA LA Land, First Man is arguably the biggest film at BIFF this year so expect tickets to rapidly disappear.

Ash is Purest White: Directors’ Cut (directed by JIA Zhangke (China/France))

When it premiered at Cannes earlier this year, director JIA Zhangke’s gangster epic quickly became a hot topic of discussion - not only for the visceral depiction of the criminal underworld and critique on Chinese culture, but for the performance of Zhao Tao who is tipped to win awards for her portrayal as a woman rebuilding her life after prison.

Everybody Knows (directed by Asghar FARHADI (France/Spain/Italy))

Iranian director Asghar FARHADI’s Spanish thriller Everybody Knows opened Cannes Film Festival this year, and stars acting legends Penélope Cruz and Javier Bardem. The story follows a family who come together for a wedding, yet during the proceedings a shocking family secret is revealed that takes an enormous psychological toll.

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FILM

The Third Wife (directed by MAYFAIR Ash (Vietnam))

Writer/director MAYFAIR Ash makes her debut with drama The Third Wife. When 14-year-old May becomes the third wife of a wealthy landowner in 19th century Vietnam, she realises that status is a prime concern. Learning that giving birth to a male heir will improve her situation, May becomes pregnant, yet her condition could spell her downfall.

The Ballad of Buster Scruggs (directed by the COEN Brothers (USA))

Films by the Coen Brothers should never be missed, and early indications show that The Ballad of Buster Scruggs is no exception.

Winning the award for Best Screenplay at Venice and starring Tim Blake Nelson, James Franco, and Liam Neeson, the western anthology presents six different short stories that the brothers have written over the past 25 years.

The Man Who Killed Don Quixote (directed by Terry Gilliam (Spain/Belgium/Portugal/France))

Director Terry Gilliam’s passion project The Man Who Killed Don Quixote has finally reached cinema screens after roughly 29 years in development hell. Starring Adam Driver and Jonathan Pryce, the story follows an advertising director who is mistaken as squire Sancho Panza by an old man who believes he is Don Quixote.

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FILM : REVIEW

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FOOD & DRINK

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FOOD & DRINK

Welcome to Yri Cafe, the Godfather of culture cafes in Hongdae

Story BECKY WHITE • Photos JUNG SUN HO

ARTISTS A

cafe is more than a place for roasting coffee beans and serving up a good cup of joe, though that is undeniably a major part.

Throughout my coffee explorations, the places that have struck me the most as true cafes are those with heart and a story. Hongdae has no lack of interesting coffee shops, but the one that caught my eye first was Yri Cafe. The blend of vintage decor from an age I can’t quite pin down, dark wood, and casual artwork hanging on the walls feels at once eclectic and homey. I first heard of Yri Cafe from a friend of mine who is a classical pianist and literature phd student.

“Do you know Yri Cafe?” he asked me earnestly. “I love the vibes there.”

I took him at his word, and without looking up anything further about the cafe, I armed myself with my camera, fellow photographer, and a mind of anticipation as I headed towards Sangsu Station. We arrived just as the cafe was opening. In fact, we were a bit early, so the worker who was setting out chairs and opening windows asked us to wait a moment on the patio until they were officially open and ready to welcome customers.

The atmosphere begins at the front patio, all wood and casual seating. The front doors are paneled and just the

right amount of neglected dust.

A few minutes later, we were welcomed inside. The interior is expansive. In one corner there is a well-worn couch, with guitars hanging on the wall above and speakers on the side. It’s no surprise there is a space just for the impromptu music concerts that are inevitable when musicians meet. On the opposite end, the whole wall is dedicated to shelves likes with books and magazines. Covers are beat and some pages are yellowed. Titles in English, Korean, Chinese, and French peek out, silently beckoning the lovers of words to draw them out and read for a while in the quiet cafe. >>

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FOOD & DRINK

Though many cafes come and go in the ever-changing Seoul coffee shop scene, Yri Cafe has withstood turnover and gentrification for over an impressive ten years.

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FOOD & DRINK

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FOOD & DRINK

>> I let my fingers play over the book spines as I walked the length of the wall, pondering which book to pull out. Books on art, music, travel, philosophy are mixed up with biographies, fiction, history and cuisine. It’s a veritable library.

The music plays low, but clearly heard in the still morning air. It is 11 a.m. on a weekday and there are no other customers. Just the way I like seeing a cafe for the first time. Without other people, it is as though I can see the cafe frozen in a space all of its own, the barista its singular caretaker, quietly polishing the counter. There are wine glasses along with mugs, as Yri Cafe serves both coffee and alcoholic drinks, along with their homemade specialty teas. I can see the dried fruits and herbs in glass cases at the front counter. I decide to try their ginger tea.

It’s sweet with a bit of that ginger kick.

Holding my mug of hot tea, I slowly walk along the walls of the cafe, looking at the interesting posters and drawings tacked up on the walls.

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FOOD & DRINK

The work of local artists is clustered together on one side, raw sketches and swiftly drawn images. I wonder who had held the pencil. According to the posters, there are upcoming shows, mini concerts, and exhibitions behind held in different parts of the city. Come stop by, they say. Maybe I will, I reply in my mind, sipping my cup of ginger tea. I take a moment to gaze at the photographs of old guests and admired artists placed around the cafe. The black and white headshots of celebrated musicians and writers.

I think also of the starving artists, the unread poets, the unheard singers, the unseen painters; those who pursued art for art’s sake. Thanks to them, places like Yri Cafe exist today.

Come for the backstory, stay for the atmosphere. Yri Cafe has always served as a hub for musicians, painters, poets, writers, and dreamers to gather and share their work as a community of artists.

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TRAVEL

Heritage Town in the Philippines A walking tour through history

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TRAVEL

Story and Photos WENDY PALOMO

T

he Philippines is known for its white sand beaches, tranquil, blue waters, and a scattered paradise of green islands. As an archipelago with 7,641 islands, paradise is almost everywhere.

So, it is not surprising when people from all over the world know it for the charm of its natural resources.

But for all its natural beauty, it is also a country with a rich history that wishes to be told and retold. Its past is both glorious and tragic. Pages of history books immortalize centuries-old stories of tragedy and valor. Some stories don’t get to be written. But we have

ancestors who love to tell tales and so history lives on. We have great grandparents passing on to their great grandchildren, who care to listen, lessons from the past via oral tradition. When we catch moments like this, we know it is special because of its rarity. It is history being passed on.

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TRAVEL Gregorio Agoncillo Mansion

So, when a town takes the ultimate concerted effort to preserve history and heritage, it deserves more than a second look. It deserves to be travelled to, its streets deserve detailed attention, its houses deserve to be visited. This is exactly what the Taal Town in Batangas is calling us to do.

Taal is a Heritage Town, home of the proud Batangueños and their ancestral houses. Its población (the town’s central business district) has been designated as a National Historical Landmark. Rightly so, because there is no one single town that can claim the honor of being the home of the greatest number of personalities that has shaped Philippine history.

The Pio Goco Walking Tour I got to have a glimpse of the glorious days of illustrado (Filipino middle class during the Spanish colonial period in the late 19th century) at the Goco Ancestral House when Pio Goco, a proud Taaleño and Goco descendant, invited my husband and our family to experience his walking tour of Taal.

His walking tour always starts with his storytelling at the ground floor of his family’s ancestral house. He is an eloquent storyteller, entertaining, funny, and filled with pride of his roots and his people. I especially enjoyed his family anecdotes. He knows what he is talking about. He has lived it from the time he was born. His family lived amidst the unfolding of history and was part of the making of history. The thick walls of the Goco Ancestral House have borne witness to the struggles of the revolutionary forces against Spanish rule. This is the reason why this house in the corner of Marella and Del Castillo Streets holds a historical mark indicating it as a heritage house registered under the National Historical Institute.

Pio’s storytelling brought us back to the founding of Taal in 1572 and the tales of the Our Lady of Caysasay,

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the town’s most revered statue of the Virgin Mary, so much so that miracles were attributed to her. Today, a shrine in her honor is one of the mostvisited places especially in a country predominantly Catholic. The Shrine is separated with a 125 granite steps from the illustrious part of the town. Up here, this is where the ancestral houses stand strong and imposing. The streets are lined by regal stone houses.

As mentioned above, there is no other town that can boast having the most number of historical figures who helped shape Philippine history.

Marcella Mariño de Agoncillo grew up and lived in this town. She made her

mark in history as the woman whose skilled craftsmanship made the first Philippine flag. Upon the request of the Philippine’s first president, Emilio Aguinaldo, she finished the symbolic Philippine flag in five days, in time for Aguinaldo’s trip back to the Philippines.

She was married to Felipe Agoncillo, another wealthy Taaleño who became the first Filipino diplomat. Their house now serves as a museum with several galleries each featuring the life of the couple and the history of the nation.

Marcella Agoncillo’s statue is aptly surrounded by several Philippine flags.

The stately white house popularly called the Gregorio Agoncillo Mansion

TRAVEL

Taal Basilica

is a well-preserved mansion in the middle of the town. This is where Felipe Agoncillo was also born, and his statue welcomes visitors right in front of the house. Maria Agoncillo, sister of Gregorio, became the wife of the Philippine’s first president, Emilio Aguinaldo. Another house that stands out in Taal is the Apacible House.

This is now managed by the National Historical Commission. Home of the two Apacible Brothers, Leon and Galicano, the house has gathered historical details instrumental to the Philippine’s fight for Independence.

There are a lot more ancestral houses I haven’t visited and even more

that aren’t open to visitors but silently watch as tourists – both local and foreign – walk its narrow roads. These are testimonies why Taal is a Heritage Town, waiting to be explored and discovered.

The most magnificent structure served as the last stop of Pio Goco’s Walking Tour: the Taal Basilica formally known as the Basilica de San Martin de Tours. It is the biggest and oldest Catholic church in Southeast Asia. It is in the center of Taal, drawing people all around. When the bells toll, the faithful bow. The imposing basilica, golden when the sun sets, serves as the anchor of their faith.

How to go to Taal Taal Town is in the province of Batangas, two hours south of Manila. It is accessible by public transportation but is best and fastest reached by private transport by way of South Luzon Expressway taking the Lipa Exit. Walking tours by Pio Goco are best reached through its Facebook page: Goco Ancestral House.

For more of Wendy’s work, check out her website at http://wendyflor.com.

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FAMILY AND KIDS Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age. A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. www.etonhouseprep.com AMUSEMENT PARKS Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogokeup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgyedong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book?

(02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

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HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic 02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products.

COSMETIC SURGERY MIZAIN plastic surgery Seoul National University College of Medicine graduate doctors offer the best quality medical services • (02) 515 6199 • Dosan-daero 423 (Cheongdam-dong 91-11), Gangnam-gu, Seoul www.mizainps.com MVP plastic surgery Welcoming environment for foreigners and friendly staff guarantees a pleasant visit for cosmetic surgery related consultations. (02) 3442 6669 •Nonhyeon-ro 819, Gangnam-gu, Seoul JK plastic surgery center Experience the best medical system in Korea. Its superb system allows the minimum efforts for your medical experiences.

(02) 777 0337 • 584-2 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksamdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul www.exxl.co.kr

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UROLOGY & OB Sewum Urology (02) 3482-8575 • 10th fl., Dongil bldg., 429 Gangnam-daero, Seochogu, Seoul Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul DENTAL CLINIC Boston Dental Clinic General dentistry / Periodontics / Orthodontics (02) 3482-0028 • 92-12 5F, Banpo 4-dong (Seorae French Village), Seocho-gu, Seoul OPHTHALMOLOGY Dream Eye Center The best eye clinic for LASIK and LASEK. 3,000+ foreign patients over 20+ years of experience with 0 complaints. If you’re considering getting this, make sure to choose the best.

• 1588 9881 • 14 fl., Mijin Plaza, 825 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul ANIMAL HOSPITALS Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

MUSEUM AND GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean.

National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongnogu, Seou This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture.

Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals.

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeongro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • 10:30 am-6 pm Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art. • 10 am-6 pm Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul • 10 am-6 p. m.

Closed on Mondays.

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

ALL PEOPLE ARE EQUAL. ALL VODKAS ARE NOT.

DRINK WITH CARE. STOLICHNAYA® PREMIUM VODKA 40% Alc./Vol. Distilled from Grain. © 2016. All rights reserved. ® – Registered trademarks, depending on the country, of ZHS IP Americas Sàrl, ZHS IP Europe Sàrl, ZHS IP Worldwide Sàrl, Spirits International B.V., or Spirits Product International Intellectual Property B.V.

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdong-gil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung gu,Seoul

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Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susongdong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1244 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gayadaero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1244 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612824, Korea

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpagu, Seoul Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

AIRLINES Korean Air 1588-2001

FAMILY AND KIDS Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeongdong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmudong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul

Asiana Airlines 1588-8000 Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180 Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Jeju Air 1599-1500

Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

T’way Air 1688-8686 Jin Air 1600-6200 Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700v Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries.

6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

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