Groove Korea 2016 April

N E P A L : Hiking To The Roof Of The World

KOREA • Issue 114 • April 2016

SEOUL

ELAND'S

G MAKIJN NG: A G N E DO FROM SEEDCE TO SAU

CHALLENGE

for

2016

ANZA:100%

Kylie's

IN TOWN

THE GREAT OUTDOORS: SEOUL AND BEYOND

EDITORIAL

April 2016

ith Spring well and truly in tow, it’s all about the Great Outdoors this month. Put away those winter warmers, get the diary out and get ready to plan those weekends away. Christine Pickering channels our adventurous sides with her own dramatic journey hiking up Annapurna I in the Himalayas.

Tom Godfrey also takes a hike of his own - but on the more lower climes of North-East Seoul as he shares his Walking In Wangsimni encounters. Hallie Bradley brings the blossoms out with her guide on where to go to get your fill of the spring flowers whilst ANZA

gets into the party spirit with the arrival of their annual charity ball (bringing no less than 100% Kylie glamor with it…). In Sports, the LG Twins starts a season of transition while Johan Stofberg talks about his upcoming triathlon exploits. Steve Price takes a look ahead at Seoul Eland’s campaign to get into the K-League top flight while Graeme Klayh gets under the rim with GOAT Basketball Over in entertainment, Simon McEnteggart also prepares for the start of the festival season with the Jeonju International Film Festival opening its doors at the end of the month. The movie selection focuses

on Three By… Empowerment, bringing a reminder about the elections on April 13 and Jen Skuse shares her own powerful story in her upcoming exhibition Phoenix Rising. For a taste of the outdoors, McPherson’s BBQ in Mokdong is just the ticket as Robert Kienzle finds out. Charlotte Hammond finds there’s more ways than one to use a rice cooker and Rob Shelley visits Boxing Cat Brewery for a bevvy. Whether for festivals, entertainment, mini-break or evening out, Spring has sprung on the peninsula. So, there’s nothing else for it: get a plan, get a friend and more importantly, get outside.

C N O VT EH R O E

April 2016

A cairn marks the trail towards Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal.

Every year, over 100,000 people come to the Annapurna region to trek through the forests and valleys of Nepal, surrounded by the Himalayas mountain range.

Annapurna I, shown here, is the tenth highest mountain in the world, sitting at 26,545 feet and Christine Pickering shares her adventures hiking up it.

Cover Photo by Christine Pickering

Correction from March 2016 issue (print)

The review of Thesis Coffee, page 58, was printed with an incorrect byline. The review was written by Jay Steingold and not Rob Shelley.

What's in this issue Vol. 114 April 2016

32

04

EDITORIAL

Hanging out with hip-hop's finest to find out the Master Plan

10

KEY PEOPLE Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

14

WHAT'S ON Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

16

GNG HOSPITAL Cosmetic surgery with cutting edge technology

18

TWO NUMBER The new app that helps put an international phone bill into a local context

20, 22-23

NATIONAL NEWS national news with Korea JoongAng Daily

COMMUNITY 24

SPRING IS IN THE AIR Time to spring into the Cherry Blossom festival

27

ANZA CHARITY BALL Themed as "On A Night Like This", ANZA gets excited about their annual gala

28

MI CASA RESTAURANT AND WINE LOUNGE Tina Wendel shares the secrets behind Mi Casa

30

TIME TO GIVE SOMETHING BACK Giving Back shares its quest to offer English education with a difference

ENTERTAINMENT

6

www.groovekorea.com April 2016

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AN IMPACT THAT LASTS Hanging out with hip-hop's finest to find out the Master Plan

34

BLUE TURTLE LAND Take your next musical journey on a giant Blue Turtle

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50

THREE BY… Simon McEnteggart looks at how K-Film is delivering empowerment to the big screen

MORE THAN JUST A BASKETBALL COMMUNITY A basketball community growing in leaps and bounds

38

FOOD

JEONJU INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL GEARS UP FOR ITS 17TH EDITION JIFF kicks off with the first International Film Festival of the season

40

PHEONIX FROM THE FLAMES Jen Skuse shares the story behind the photos in this moving exhibition

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MCPHERSON’S BBQ PUB GRACES THE SLOW-COOKED SCENE Joe McPherson's new BBQ joint adds heat to the southern-style scene

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SWEET STEAMS ARE MADE OF THIS A no-fear guide to rice cooker baking

SPORT 44

AIMING TO TURN THE TIDE LG Twins heads into the tightest KBO season ever

46

NOT JUST ANOTHER SEASON Johan Stofberg prepares for a massive 2016 season

48

SECOND TIME LUCKY FOR SEOUL ELAND? Can Seoul Eland reach the promised 'K-Classic' land this season?

p.28

A home away from home for Spanish cuisine

What's in this issue Vol. 114 April 2016

44

LG Twins heads into the tightest KBO season ever

56

KONG PROJECT A YEARLONG JOURNEY FROM SEED TO SAUCE Jordan Redmond dives into the long but worthwhile process of fermenting soybeans, Korean style

58

BOXING CAT BREWERY STOPS OVER IN SEOUL A Shanghai brewery visits Mikkeller Seoul to share its best brews

60

‘YUK-KAL’ NOODLE SOUP IS A MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN Andy Hume shares secrets on the best knife-cut noodles and spicy beef stew in the city

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www.groovekorea.com April 2016

RESTAURANT BUZZ Menu updates from Casablanca, supreme breakfasts at Bill's OMIJA MULE Adding traditional Korean flair to the Moscow Mule

TRAVEL 62

A WALK IN WANGSIMNI Tom Godfrey takes a look around the local 'hood

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TAKING INITIATIVE THE NEPALESE WAY An adventure up (and down) one of the greatest mountains in the world

p.40

Jen Skuse shares the story behind the photos in this moving exhibition

Key people

Christine Pickering

is a writer and photographer from Toronto, Canada. For five years, she taught English in Masan and Seoul, explored the nooks and crannies of Southeast Asia, and worked for various human rights organizations.

She recently completed a graduate program in International Development and is now based in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. You can read her travel writing here: christinepickering.wordpress.com

Gil Coombe

Charlotte Hammond

is a writer and editor and carbohydrate addict. She hails from the New Jersey Shore where glorious Italian delis hide in crummy strip malls. This is her last year in Korea and when she is not eating her favorite things, she’s writing a memoir about her life on the peninsula.

is an instructor at a private university in Seoul, who likes to mess around with copy editing and proof-reading in his spare time (and even occasionally convincing people to pay him for it). A keen interest in hiking and cycling around Korea has helped extend what was originally intended to be a one-year post-university, pre-working overseas sojourn into a completely different career. A current member of KOTESOL, he has just started to inflict his views on teaching on others via conference presentations.

Jordan Redmond

A born-and-bred South Carolinian, Jordan has a deep appreciation for all things porcine and fierce opinions about mustardbased BBQ sauce. Other perennial palate-based pursuits include all things Mexican and Japanese as well as the perfect preparation of various types of caffeinated beverages.

He is Groove’s Assistant Food & Drink Editor.

10 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Johan Stofberg

is a born and bred South African. He has been living in South Korea the last three years while teaching EFL. He is passionate about triathlons and is chasing big dreams in the sport. This year he will compete in the Ironman 70.3 World Championships in Australia. He loves the outdoors and enjoying a good glass of red wine with his wife.

Simon McEnteggart

is a freelance film journalist. After lecturing in Film and Cultural Theory in the UK, he moved to Korea to follow the K-cinema industry more closely, and can be found attending the numerous film festivals throughout the country. You can see more of his work at hangukyeonghwa.com.

KOREA 5th floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea.

Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com ASSISTANT EDITOR

liam RING liam@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL

COMMUNITY INSIGHT FOOD & DRINK ENTERTAINMENT TRAVEL SPORTS PHOTO

naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com anita MCKAY anita@groovekorea.com charlotte HAMMOND food@groovekorea.com naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com liam RING liam@groovekorea.com steve SMITH photo@groovekorea.com COPY EDITORS

Gil Coombe, Tom Godfrey W RITERS & CONTRIBUTORS

Johan Stofberg, Graeme Klayh, Lorenzo Corti, Luke Butcher, Steven Price, Hallie Bradley, Celeste Maturen, Emma Kalka, Simon McEnteggart, Christine Pickering, Jen Skuse, Rob Shelley, GNG, TwoNumbers, James Thole, Anna Jo, The Booth, Peter Kim, Tom Godfrey, Charlotte Hammond, Robert Kienzle, Andy Hume, Bobby Kim, Jordan Redmond, Quintin Coetzee, Seo Ung-jin, Seoul Eland, Goat Basketball, LG Twins, Jacole Douglas, HanCinema, CJ Culture, Foundation and Def Kim, Christopher Saint Germain, Mi Casa, ANZA, JIFF, Garion, KJER Photography, KI Photography, Bernard Black, Marco Tessiore, Jeonghwa Park Translators Kim Keum-seok ART & DESIGN

ART DIRECTOR matsuri MITOKURA matsuri@groovekorea.com MARKETING & ADMINISTRATION

CFO steve seung-jin LEE MARKETING DIRECTOR peter CHONG ACCOUNTING yi-seul OH

W EB & MOBILE

HIMES DESIGN www.himesdesign.com FINCH PROFESSTIONAL SERVICES www.finchproservices.com PUBLISHER

sean CHOI sean@groovekorea.com

To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com.

To contribute to groovekorea, promote an event or share your opinions, please email naheen@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

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All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2016

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APRIL CALENDAR

3

Yeouido Spring Flower Fes t ival (cherry blossom fes t ival) / April 4-10 / Yeouido, Seoul

6

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Jindo Miracle Sea Road Fes t ival April 7-10 / Jindo, Jeonnam Province

5

Musical ‘AMADEUS’ wit h original French cas t unt il April 24 Sejong Arts Center Yeouido, Seoul 12

T he Hunt sman Winter's War

Goryeosan Mt. Azalea Fes t ival / April 12-26 / Gwanghwa-gun, Incheon 20

Triple

Franz Harary ‘Grand Illusion’ April 15-27 Jangchung Gymnasium Jung-gu, Seoul

19 25 Secret in T heir Eyes

Larry Carlton Quintet live @ KEPCO Arts Center / Yangjae, Seoul

14 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

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25

Captain America: Civil War

21

APRIL 2016 THU FRI 1

SAT

Jinhae Gunhang je (cheery blossom fes t ival)/ Changwon, Gyeongnam Province April 1-10

SUN

Yeongchwisan Mt. Azalea Fes t ival

3 8

14

COFFEE EXPO COEX, Seoul April 14-17

Seokchon Lake Cherry Blossom Festival April 8-10 Jamsil Seokchon Lake, Seoul

Palgongsan Mt. Cherry Blossom Festival April 13-17 / Daegu

Jeju Canola Flower Fes t ival / April 9-10 / Pyosun, Jeju

10

Il Divo concer t @ BEXCO, Busan

16 Taean Tulip Fes t ival

April 16 – May 8, Taean, Chungnamt

Jewelry Fair Korea COEX, Seoul / April 21-24

23

Icheon Ceramics 29 Fes t ival Int’l Hor t icult ure April 29 – May 22 Goyang Korea 2016 Icheon, Gyeonggi Province April 29 – May 15 Goyang, Gyeonggi Province

28

April 3-5 Yeosu, Jeonnam Province

Yeoju Ceramic Fes t ival / April 30 – May 22 / 30 Yeoju, Gyeonggi Province

Gwangalli Eobang Fes t ival, April 22-24, Gwangalli, Busan

CSPONSOR OMMUNI TY S Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

GANGNAM’S RHINOPLASTY SPECIALISTS GNG Hospital offers the very best in nose reconstruction and sleep disturbance treatment Written by: Liam Ring | Photos by: Lorenzo Corti and GNG Hospital

16 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

As

any casual visitor to Gangnam can attest to, the to feel more at ease when entering the hospital’s Gangnam plethora of plastic surgery advertisements can headquarters. The hospital boasts that “no one can mimic GNG seem unnerving. The area rivals Apgujeong for nose surgery,” with 11 fully certified surgeons working together hospitals and clinics, with over 500 “cosmetic centers” registered to ensure the very best in patient care. In addition, each client has in Gangnam in 2014 and almost one million procedures a year their own personal care manager from the moment of contact – conducted in the Korean capital. As many as 20% of Korean a manager who will whenever possible be available to the client women aged 20-49 are reputed to have had meaning that the consultation process (which work done, and for every shimmering after- The hospital’s sleep has a 24-hour service available) can at any shot of a beautifully sculpted jawline or nose, clinic is one of the first time update its medical staff as to a patient’s there is someone tut-tutting and ready with requirements. an anecdote about the dangers of going in Korea and is led by GNG’s classification as a hospital – as opposed to a clinic – means that it has a higher under the knife. So if you are looking for a Director Hyun Do-jin, designation from the Ministry of Health and procedure in what is clichédly referred to as a sleep surgery Welfare and, with brand new facilities that the mecca for plastic surgery, where should specialist with a only opened last year, it offers a state of the you turn? art medical service. There are - the hospital Whereas many clinics will offer a one-stop decade of experience emphasises - no gimmicks here, as the best shop for all possible procedures under one who trained at work in cosmetic procedures comes from roof, GNG Hospital emphasises its expertise Stanford University. having highly trained staff and top-notch in rhinoplasty, eyelid surgery, skin care clinic and its newly enlarged sleep center. A decade of experience in service. The hospital has extensive experience in rhinoplasty and both surgical and non-surgical rhinoplasty procedures means nose obstruction for both foreigners and Asians, with the hospital’s it has the wealth of experience necessary to ensure that those surgeons able to assist with procedures for both cosmetic and horror stories of less reputable clinics can easily be avoided. medical reasons (such as deviated septums and nasal congestion).

With a website offering 1,500 before and after photos and a And it isn’t only for those seeking a less crooked nose, with one banner promising the very best, prospective clients are certain of the hospital’s proudest achievements being its work in the

Head to http://www.gngnose.co.kr/en/ for more information and testimonials.

CSPONSOR OMMUNI TY S Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

626 Yeongdong-daero, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (Call 070-7701-5656) GNG Headquarters is next to Exit 3 of Bongeunsa Station, Line 9

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 17

field of sleep disturbance. Tired of your partner’s complaints to aid with a faster recovery time. This can be extremely about your snoring? Or are you feeling fatigued or headachy important for those visiting Korea, and GNG can even offer all day after another night without proper sleep? Two of a full consultation to treatment and recovery services in one GNG’s signature treatments involve identifying and solving day on certain procedures. A vital element for every client problems related to snoring and sleep apnea, with up to 80% of considering procedures is in after-surgery care, and with a fiveconsultations identifying airflow problems as a primary cause of year guarantee, the hospital guarantees that any side effects or sleep disturbance. Obstructive sleep apnea (OSA) is said to affect complications coming from any procedure will be dealt with one in five Americans, and is a problem that has increasingly efficiently and promptly. The hospital also works extensively been linked to other complaints such as with all major insurance carriers such as high blood pressure, heart disease and even The hospital boasts Cigna, Allianz and AIA (among others) as well performance-related accidents such as road as providing savings of up to 10% in special that “no one can mimic offers for military personnel, families and crashes. The hospital uses everything from overseas patients, with their collaboration with CT scans to endoscopies to overnight sleep GNG nose surgery,” major insurance providers allowing functional studies to identify the problem, with an with 10 fully certified problems in the nose and throat areas to be exact diagnosis leading to the best treatment dealt with in a no muss, no fuss manner. options – non-surgical or surgical – available. surgeons working GNG expresses great pride in its The hospital’s sleep clinic was one of the first together to ensure comprehensive approach to patient care, and in Korea and is led by Director Hyun Doevery diagnostic and management decision jin, a sleep surgery specialist with a decade the very best in care. is made in conjunction with a fully-trained of experience who trained at Stanford University. Dr. Hyun is a very busy man, as GNG has performed medical professional who reviews every step of the procedure among the highest number of OSA surgeries in Asia in recent with the patient. All patients are welcome to stay in the hospital as long as they wish to – even for non-surgical procedures – and years.

Post-treatment, the hospital offers newly developed recovery nurses are on-call 24 hours a day. GNG is here to help and to techniques such as high pressure oxygen and infrared treatment make all treatment options feel more like being at home.

A Phone Away From Home – at local phone rates Written by: Naheen Madarbakus-Ring | Photos by: TwoNumber

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

CSPONSOR OMMUNI TY S

TWONUMBER

18 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

T

woNumber is the newest mobile application in town to help make those trips abroad a little easier.

Find out more about how the TwoNumber app can help keep those phone costs down when using making calls in another country.

What’s TwoNumber?

TwoNumber is the name of our mobile application that allows phone users to receive and make overseas phone calls at local call rates or free of charge depending on each user’s payment plans.

It is very simple to use. Once you download the App, you can select your country from the settings menu. The app is very global as there are 60+ countries to choose from. Just select the area codes of the country you will be in to make and receive calls and you will be automatically provided with a virtual or faux local number. This number will also appear on the receiver’s handset as this caller ID can be used to receive calls if any are made to your mobile phone in Korea.

Once registered with the App, give the virtual or faux number provided to your families or friends back home.

They will only need to dial this number instead of dialing country codes and the prefix. Likewise, you don’t have to press any country codes and prefix when you dial your families or friends overseas. Basically, you will be carrying two different numbers on one phone.

What were the difficulties in launching the service?

As our service is associated with local mobile service carriers, the greatest challenge was to convince those local partners that it was a plausible idea. It was relatively smooth when working with local mobile service carriers in the US or in Japan who loved the concept.

However, there was no precedent for such a service in some other countries and thus we were the first to even try carrying the service in China. We could not even get in contact with three of the major mobile service carriers, who never replied to our queries at all. While we were hitting walls, I was introduced to a China Telecom staff member who was visiting his friend in Korea from Weihai city. Our team flew to Weihai city a dozen times or so just to create an opportunity to present our ideas to them. They loved the concept and the

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Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

3

CSPONSOR OMMUNI TY S

5

4

www.twonumber.net Online support:

02-849-9670 (Mon-Fri:9am-6pm) Who are your core users?

Our core users would be expats. There are many ways and very different rates when making overseas calls and indeed making calls to Korea from outside the country. On average, it costs KRW 150 per minute to make a call from the US to Korea, KRW 180 from China to Korea and KRW 1,000 from Vietnam to Korea. It can easily amount to KRW 5,000- KRW 30,000 for your family or friends if chatting just for half an hour.

However, if you’re registered with the App, users should be charged the local rate for calls. Additionally, if both you and your family or friends are registered with the App, it could be free of charge depending on mobile plans by each user.

We have many businesses who conduct their communications with foreign companies outside Korea through our service which could also benefit companies by reducing their phone bills.

What is TwoNumber’s next step?

Our next App in development is the IP to Phone service which looks more at capitalizing on the international mobile roaming service. Our eventual aim is to bring the world closer together through the TwoNumber application.

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 19

proposed service so all of our business trips eventually paid off. As China is our second largest market after the US, we could not afford to lose this opportunity.

How are TwoNumber services differentiated with other services?

Usually when we use what we call alternative channels – better known as Skype, Kakao Voice, Line or WeChat – this requires users on both ends to have smartphones or the same Apps downloaded. Additionally, these types of chatting apps also require WIFI or LTE/3G. However, TwoNumber does not require the other person on the line to download the same App nor to carry smartphones or a working internet connection. Basically, our service caters to all lines whether they are mobile or land lines, which adds a little more flexibility with our service.

Were there similar services in the past?

There was an App that only serviced out-going calls a while back. However, TwoNumber has evolved on this foundation and is now the first and only App that services both in-coming and out-going calls to more than 60 countries.

NATI ONAL NE WS

All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity.

The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

In association with April 2016 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

LOAN SHARKS COERCED WOMEN INTO

PROSTITUTION

20 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

v Busan Metropolitan Police Agency busted an international prostitution ring on March 22, which was sending Korean women to work for Internet prostitution sites in Tokyo.

Police arrested three loan sharks for their involvement as brokers, arranging to send the women overseas, as well as six other brokers, four sex website managers and 34 female prostitutes.

One 37-year-old loan shark surnamed Lee told police that from last May to February of this year, he helped send to Tokyo 17 indebted women, telling them it was “a way to earn lots of money.”

The women traveled to Japan on a 90-day travel visa, where they gave 40 percent of their profits to local prostitution website managers and the rest to Lee in order to repay their debts.

The women earned 20,000 yen ($179) for 80 minutes of service, 25,000 yen for 100 minutes, and 30,000 yen for 120 minutes.

The women had to take videos of their intercourse and submit them to website managers, who would then upload them to the site to attract customers.

When some of the women couldn’t re-enter Japan due to more stringent immigration regulations, Lee sent them to Canada, the United States and Australia. He told police he found various contacts via an online community.

The women Lee sent to Canada, the United States and Australia were on travel visas and worked at brothels disguised as residential homes.

Police also discovered Lee trained the women before they left Korea on how to pretend to be tourists, telling them to memorize tourist information pertinent to each country and to fake travel schedules. He also equipped each woman with 1 million won in cash and a camera.

Lee even handed out manuals detailing how the women should interact with customers, including details such as how to talk with customers on the phone and even

what facial expressions to make when having sex. Also arrested were two other loan sharks, a 57-year-old man surnamed Yoon and a 47-year-old man surnamed Park.

Yoon was running a high-interest loan shop in Tokyo, near Uguisudani station, when he seized the passport of a woman who couldn’t pay him back and forced her to stay in the country illegally as a prostitute.

Park was arrested for hiring 15 prostitutes in Japan, which he did by posting an advertisement on a website for women seeking part-time jobs. Police explained that he was able to operate more easily because he didn’t have to invest in building a physical brothel and therefore wasn’t as vulnerable to arrest.The investigations began after police were tipped off by an intelligence source about a large number of Korean women sex workers operating near Uguisudani station.

They then conducted their investigations by speaking to the victims and tracing their banking accounts.

Police estimate as many as 60 women have been sent abroad by the brokers.

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HIDEO SUZUKI, A MINISTER AT THE JAPANESE EMBASSY IN SEOUL, IS SUMMONED TO THE MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS IN CENTRAL SEOUL, AS THE KOREAN GOVERNMENT PROTESTS JAPAN’S APPROVAL OF HIGH SCHOOL TEXTBOOKS THAT PUSH TOKYO’S CLAIM OVER THE DOKDO ISLETS.

Teheranro 37-gil 13-8 Gangnam-gu, Seoul Yeoksam subway station (Line no. 2) Exit #8 (150m) Gangnam stn

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condemned Japan’s approval of new high school textbooks on March 18 that renewed Tokyo’s claim over the Dokdo islets in the East Sea, putting new stress on ties between the neighbors.

Of 35 high school textbooks approved by Japan’s Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and

KOREA

In association with

ES OUT AT TEXTBOOK MS MS Technology, 27 textbooks said Dokdo is Japanese sovereign territory and South Korea’s occupation of them is illegal.

Bilateral ties between Seoul and Tokyo hit a recent high last December 28, when the two countries reached a landmark agreement in the long-running diplomatic battle over the Japanese military’s wartime sexual enslavement of Korean women. The deal included an apology from Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe and a 1 billion yen ($8.3 million) compensation fund for the victims.

But in the newly updated textbooks, some have watered down the description of Japan’s treatment of the so-called comfort women. Instead of saying the women were “forcibly brought” into sexual servitude, they say they were “sent” or “mobilized.”

Korea’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs released a statement saying it deeply deplores the Japanese government’s approval of the textbooks and requests immediate rectification, emphasizing that Dokdo is Korea’s territory historically, geographically and by international law.

“The Japanese government should never forget that teaching history correctly is its grave responsibility to future generations in Japan and neighboring nations that suffered from Japan’s invasion,” the ministry said in the statement.

“We urge the Japanese government to show its sincere behavior to move forward the bilateral relationship by facing up to the reality of history.”

The Foreign Affairs Ministry summoned Hideo Suzuki, a minister at the Japanese Embassy in Seoul, to lodge a complaint with Tokyo over the issue. Chung Byung-won, director general of Northeast Asian Affairs, met the Japanese diplomat and urged the Japanese government to rectify the textbooks. Suzuki reportedly replied that his country’s stance is clear.

The updates in the high school textbooks follow Tokyo’s revised teaching guidelines from January 2014 for middle and high school textbooks that promotes a more hard-line nationalist agenda.

Last April, 18 middle school textbooks that exerted Tokyo’s claim over Dokdo were approved, and Seoul summoned Japanese Ambassador to Seoul Koro Bessho to protest.

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Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

C OMMUNI TY

Spring Is In The Air! Story and Photos by Hallie Bradley

Cherry blossoms - and outdoor festivals - are in full bloom pring, spring, spring is in the air and it is certainly in the steps of people walking on the sidewalks.

As the days start to get longer and the sun warms up those gentle breezes, it’s a message for all that spring is on the way. However, it isn’t until those breezes start carrying the fresh scent of flowers that we really know that spring has truly arrived. From the iconic cherry blossoms to the Japanese dogwood’s flowering yellow blooms, the colorful petals will soon be out and proud. Of course, festivals are the best way to enjoy them as there will not only be blooms to view but good eats, street art, and more. Grab your spring attire, your camera, and some friends and take selfies galore with the best of the best in spring backdrops across the country.

Nonsan Strawberry Festival March 30, 2016 - April 3, 2016

24 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Start off this spring with strawberry blossoms.

The quintessential spring fruit is celebrated in Korean fashion in Nonsan. Big, red, juicy strawberries, strawberry jam, chocolatecovered strawberries, and more fill the fairgrounds. Shuttle buses take festival goers to nearby strawberry fields to pick and fill up on as many juicy pieces of fruity goodness as they can. Only 1000 participants head into the fields each day, so stop at the tents to get your ticket first. Nonsan is the largest producer of this quintessential spring fruit, and your taste buds are sure to be delighted.

Get there: From Seoul Central City Terminal (Honam Line), take a bus to Nonsan (논산).

Approx. travel time: 2 hrs *Bus schedule: 06:30 - 22:45, at 40 min intervals (Bus schedule is subject to change.)

From Nonsan Bus Terminal, cross the road.

Take Bus 515, 516, 601, 602, 701 or 712 to Daegyodong (대교동) Bus Stop.

From the bus stop, go straight for 100 m to arrive at the Nonsan Stream and Strawberry Field.

Mar 30-Apr 24 Cherry Blossom Festivals

Free, Check our Spring Is In The Air article for details

April 1, 2016 - April 3, 2016 This festival is famous for having the 10-ri Cherry Blossom Road. The 10-ri road, also known as “the marriage road,” is about 4.5 kilometers long and has a lovely saying about lovers walking along the road living happily ever after if they make it the whole 4.5 kilometers. Don’t wear your heels ladies if you want to try it! The Hwagae area is said to look as if it’s covered in snow due to having so many cherry blossom trees blossoming at once. Take your special someone or go with some friends and be sure to bring a camera to see what the road foretells.

Get there: From Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal, take an intercity bus bound for Hadong (하동). * Bus Schedule: 06:30, 08:00, 09:30, 11:30, 13:30, 15:30, 17:30, 19:30, 22:00 - Get off at Hwagae Terminal (화계터미널).

- Cross the Hwagaegyo Bridge, and go straight for 100 m to arrive at Hwagae Market.

Icheon Baeksa Sansuyu Flower Festival April 1, 2016 - April 3, 2016

While Gurye hosts the larger sansuyu - or Japanese Dogwood festival - in late March, enjoy the yellow Japanese dogwood trees in full bloom just a half hour outside of Seoul in Icheon instead.

Though Icheon’s celebration of the flowers is a bit smaller, the landscape is still gorgeous. Baeksa Village is host to dogwood trees that have been growing for more than 100 years. There will be a flower parade, traditional folk games, and lots of townie fun with some delicious local delicacies to try too. Get the hiking boots on to head up the mountain trails while in the area to really enjoy the scenery.

April 1, 2016 - April 10, 2016

Jinhae boasts the largest cherry blossom festival on the peninsula and brings together both a welcoming to spring with abundant light pink petals and also celebrates Admiral Yi Sun Shin, the Korean naval commander famous for victories against the Japanese. The naval port city of Jinhae welcomes visitors with a victory parade and ceremony to honor the admiral and the Jinhae Military Band and Honor Guard play powerful and polished military music in full dress.

Not usually open to the public, the naval base welcomes visitors each spring to celebrate amid the 100-year-old cherry blossom trees that flower around the base. The photogenic highlight of the festival is an 800 m stretch of train tracks

by Gyeonghwa Station surrounded by flowering trees and a 1.5-kilometer-long stream lined with the pink flowers. To appreciate the natural beauty of Korea and to gain some cultural insight into history, head to Jinhae this spring.

Get there: From Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal, take an intercity bus to Jinhae (진해).

- From Jinhae Intercity Bus Terminal, go 30 m straight and turn right onto Jungwondong-ro (중원동로) Road.

- Go 350 m straight, and stay left at the fork.

- Go 230 m to arrive at the festival venue.

Gyeongpo Cherry Blossom Festival

TB C (www.gntour.go.kr) Gangneung is a hot spot for many come summer for the gorgeous white sand beaches that lead into emerald blue waters. But in the spring, the nearby lake that sits just behind the famous beach is abloom with cherry blossoms. The walk around the lake is 4.3 kilometers long and lined with the blushing beauties.

Alongside the blooming sights are flower exhibitions and other various cultural events to enjoy. The scenery is the large draw to the area with natural beauty galore. Also famous in the area is a salt water tofu dish that will fill the tummy and a quirky gramophone museum that’s worth a visit too.

Get there: From Seoul Express Bus Terminal, take bus to Gangneung.

From Gangneung Intercity Bus Terminal, take Bus 202 to Gyeongpodae Beach.

- Walk 212 m straight.

Apr 4 Makgeolli Brewing Certificate Program (Foundation)

7pm-10pm (every Monday for 8 weeks), KRW450,000, See website for details: www.makgeollibrewingfoundations.splashthat.com

Apr 8 Korean traditional alcohol(Dongdongju) making class - Korea Studio Sool

2pm-4pm, KRW 15,000, Yeoksam Global Village Center, 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, GangnamGu, Seoul, Sign up at ygvc0417@gmail.com

Afterschool Art Class: Wood Art Frame

4pm-5.30pm, KRW 5,000, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Volunteer Activity: Yongsan Center for the Disabled

2pm-4pm Free but sign-up prior to the session ,www.global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, YongsanGu, Seoul 140-893

Apr 12 Volunteer Activity: Yongsan Senior Welfare Center

1pm-3pm, Free but sign-up prior to the session www.global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, YongsanGu, Seoul 140-893

Namsangol Hanok Village Tour & Experience Korean tradition 2pm-6pm, Free, Yeoksam Global Village Center, 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul (4F Health Classroom). Sign up at ygvc0417@gmail.com

Apr 15 Ship Jasaeng Patterned Hanji Tray Making Class

10am-12pm, KRW 6,000, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Apr 19 Hanji Craft Making

Hanji Craft Making, 1pm-3pm, Free, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam, Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Tax seminar-Yeoksam Global Village Center

10.30am-12pm, Free, Yeoksam Global Village Center, 6, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul ,Sign up at ygvc0417@gmail.com

Apr 21 Volunteer Activity: Young Nak Aenea’s Home 2pm-4pm, Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Apr 22 Traditional Market Walking Tour

10am-12pm Free, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Pottery Class: Cup Making

1pm-3pm KRW 11,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Apr 29 Afterschool Etiquette Class for Kids

4pm-5.30pm, KRW 10,000, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Apr 30 MMPK Meeting

7pm, KRW 10, 000, Please check the website for the location www.mmpkorea. wordpress.com

The ANZA Korea Grand Charity Ball

6.30pm-12am, KRW 225,000 – KRW 250,000, Grand Hyatt Hotel, www.anzakorea.com/ events/anza-2016-annual-charity-ball-2/

Banking Seminar

10am-12pm Free, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannamdong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 25

Get there: From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an intercity bus to Icheon Terminal.

- Get on 23-8 or 23-81 in front of the bus terminal.

- Get off at Dorip-ri (도립리) Station.

- Walk straight 60 m and turn left at Dorimniyukgoejeong (도립리육괴정).

- Continue walking 166 m. * Bus Schedule at Icheon Terminal: 6:10-23:00, 20 min-40 min intervals/ Estimated travel time: 1 hour

Jinhae Gunhangje Festival (Tongsin-dong, Jinhae-gu, Changwon-si, Gyeongsangnam-do)

7.30pm-8.30pm (beginner), 8.30pm-9.30pm (intermediate), KRW 10,000 won non-band nights/KRW 15,000 won band nights, SAMOS, Yonsero-5-dakil 22-3, 3rd floor, Chang Cheon-dong Sodemun-gu, Seoul

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Hwagae Cherry Blossoms Festival

Apr 2 (and every Saturday) KISS Salsa Classes

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GRAB YOUR SPRING ATTIRE, YOUR CAMERA, AND SOME FRIENDS AND TAKE SELFIES GALORE WITH THE BEST OF THE BEST IN SPRING BACKDROPS ACROSS THE COUNTRY.

Jindo Mysterious Sea Route C OMMUNI TY

April 7, 2016 - April 10, 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

For something a little less flowery but still able to satisfy wanderlust, head to Jindo this spring. The Korean version of the Moses sea parting takes place in Jindo, the third largest island in Korea, each year and it is a must-see. The water parts and the masses of viewers pull up their thigh-high waders (because it’s still a bit muddy and mushy) and head out to cross the 2.8 kilometers from Jindo to a nearby island. While some head out with their buckets to collect the shellfish that just didn’t see the sea parting coming, others pick up their feet to get out to the island and back before the waters rise again 45 minutes later. It’s a great event on the southern coast of Korea complete with delicious food, enjoyable concerts and, of course, the beautiful coastal views.

Get there: Seoul – Jindo (The bus runs from the Central City Express Bus Terminal at 07:35, 09:00, 15:30 and 16:35 four times daily and the journey takes 5 hours 40 minutes.)

From Jindo-eup Bus Terminal, take a bus to Jindo Island or Hoedong-ri.

FROM THE ICONIC CHERRY BLOSSOMS TO THE JAPANESE DOGWOOD’S FLOWERING YELLOW BLOOMS, THE COLORFUL PETALS WILL SOON BE OUT AND PROUD Yeongdeungpo Yeouido Spring Flower Festival

Seokchon Lake Cherry Blossom Festival

Gwangalli Eobang Festival

If leaving Seoul to see cherry blossoms just isn’t possible this year, enjoy the blooms on the capital’s doorstep. Seoul has cherry blossom trees dotted all over the city. Trees found in nearby parks and along boulevards will display the white and pink petal wonders all over town.

The most popular place to see them by far is the road around the National Assembly building on Yeouido Island. Fifteen hundred cherry blossom trees line the road, which is blocked to traffic during the festival period to allow pedestrians full photo access. The trees are also lit up after sunset so they can be enjoyed at any hour, night and day. Helpful hint: head there early morning or fairly late to see the white and pink fluttering petals with as few people as possible crowding around the trees.

While the entire city of Seoul will be awash with pink in the spring, there are a few hotspots for romantic views and Seokchon Lake is one of them.

The lake is surrounded by cherry blossom trees blushing in the sunlight and couples strolling hand-in-hand near the water along with families and children frolicking beneath the trees.

Performances, exhibitions, and other activities add to the fun. For some beautiful landscape views without all of the crowds, try to get there in the early morning or else crowds, crowds, and more crowds are sure to be enjoying the views too.

While the other festivals in spring are about celebrating the blooms, the fest at Gwangalli Beach is all about jumping right into summer. While the water is likely to still be too cold to dive into, that won’t keep the summer dreamers away.

Eobang is a word for the spirit of the fishermen and that spirit is felt in Busan.

Bare-hand fishing, cooking contests, a tug-of-war, and loads of good food to chow down on will all be there and of course the views of the beautiful beach adds much to the enjoyment factor of this fest.

26 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

April 4, 2016 - April 10, 2016

Get there: • Dangsan Station (Subway Line 2 or 9), Exit 4, 20 minute walk.

• Yeouinaru Station (Subway Line 5), Exit 1, 20 minute walk.

• Yeouido Station (Subway Line 5 or 9), Exit 5. Take Bus 162, 262, or 461 to National Assembly (국회앞).

• National Assembly Station (Subway Line 9), Exit 1 or 6, 5 minute walk.

Hallie Bradley is a writer, educator, editor, and more who has lived in Korea since 2006.

Check out her website TheSoulofSeoul.net for more articles on culture, Korean traditions and the life of her growing multicultural family in Korea.

April 8, 2016 - April 10, 2016

Get there: Jamsil Station (Seoul Subway Line 2 or 8), Exit 2 or 3. Seokchon Lake is located 200 m straight ahead.

April 22, 2016 - April 24, 2016

Get there: Gwangan Station (Busan Subway Line 2), Exit 3 or 5.

Walk straight for 600 m until you see Gwangalli Beach.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

2016 ANZA KOREA CHARITY BALL

Kylie, fundraising and charity all under one roof Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by ANZA

Youth in Yongin, which is affectionately known as “Big Mama’s House.” The renovations come on the back of new government regulations with which Big Mama must comply in order to keep the family together. Although Big Mama remains one of ANZA Korea’s long-standing focus charities, the event will also raise money for the organization’s other charities including Anna’s House for the homeless, Intree single mothers network and the Myongdo Centre for the disabled in Mokpo.

ANZA Korea events have raised over KRW 260 billion won for charities in the last five years, donating money from event fundraising and corporate sponsorship to their chosen organizations. Last year’s donations were used to fund a range of projects including winter outreach programs, winter gas bills, education

scholarships, and equipment for employment projects, and this year promises to do the same.

Their long-standing relationship continues with Macquarie Group of Companies Korea, who are the Diamond Sponsor and event partner of this year’s charity ball. All funds raised from the event will be used to fund ANZA Korea’s numerous charity projects and “On A Night Like This” promises to be fun, colorful and magical.

More info: The 2016 ANZA Charity Ball When: Saturday April 30, 2016, Time: 6.30pm until late, Where: The Grand Hyatt Seoul, Sowol-ro, Yongsan-gu., Tickets: Members: KRW 225,000 / Non-members: KRW 250,000 (inclusive of a four-course meal, beer, wines, soft drinks and entertainment – over 18s only), Book online at: www.anzakorea.com, Enquiries: membership@anzakorea.com, Facebook: www.facebook.com/ events/1242212162473322/

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 27

2016 ANZA Korea Charity Ball comes to town this month for an evening of glitz, glamor and Kylie. The Australia and New Zealand Association of Korea (ANZA Korea) holds its annual charity ball on Saturday April 30 at the Grand Hyatt Hotel, Seoul and this year’s event brings a few surprises.

The theme of this year’s ball, “On A Night Like This”, is inspired by one of the pop classics recorded by Aussie icon Kylie Minogue. Aiming to provide a fun, colorful and memorable experience, the world’s no. 1 Kylie show, 100% KYLIE, will be performing at the ball in their debut performance in Seoul. 100% KYLIE is renowned for putting on a spectacular show and alongside the artist’s greatest hits, expect feathers, sparkles and a lot of dancing.

A live band and DJ complete a hat-trick of performers in an entertainment line-up guaranteed to keep the party going until midnight. The ticket also includes a spectacular four-course meal and unlimited beer, wine and soft drinks, alongside a whole evening of fantastic entertainment. The ball will include a raffle and silent auction with prizes including luxury leather goods, high-end beauty products, fine art, and even hotel stays.

All proceeds from the event will go towards local charity projects including the rebuilding and renovation of the Mubepjeongsa Home of

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Mi Casa

Restaurant and

28 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

e Wine Loung estled behind the main Itaewon strip in the 3 Alleys part of town, Mi Casa has a certain European flare to it. Since opening its doors in 2011, the family-run business has continued to cater to their customers by providing a special place for people to share their Spanish food culture and vision.

A home away from home for Spanish cuisine Story by: Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by: Mi Casa and Christopher Saint Germain

The traditional Spanish tapas restaurant and wine lounge aims to make customers feel at home. The inviting slogan of mi casa es tu casa (simply translated as “my house is your house”) aims to make customers welcome in the restaurant’s relaxing ambience by enjoying great food and wine which is topped with very personal service.

Owner and General Manager Tina Wendel is of Korean and German descent and grew up in Alicante, Spain. She moved to Korea to join the family business in 2012, which had already put together a delicious menu to share the country’s delicate flavours with the local population. Mi Casa encompasses the Spanish traditions of food being a big

part of everyday life as the restaurant’s aim is to bring authentic Spanish cuisine to the middle of Seoul. And for the last five years, it’s worked.

The kitchen has been left in the capable hands of head chef Alejandro Bermudez Leguina. His philosophy is to provide love and dedication to the food, adding “that without passion, the food doesn’t taste right”.

Alejandro sources many ingredients from Spain to capture the traditional taste in his dishes and works closely with local suppliers to get the best for his creations.

Mi Casa’s menu is diverse with regional favourites included for extra authenticity.

Alejandro explains “every region in Spain has

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

AT MI CASA, WE AIM TO REPRESENT SPANISH FOOD WITH AUTHENTIC DISHES FROM EACH REGION. your family, friends, date or business contacts here for a night out. Whether for a drink, a plate of tapas or a three-course meal, Mi Casa has it covered.

The new era of Mi Casa hopes to bring a regular clientele to the restaurant. With some changes also ahead for the menu, there will be a clear differentiation between their tapas and dinner offerings. With a new model, new menu and new concept in the making, it’s time to experience some home cooking at Mi Casa.

Dining at Mi Casa Mondays: Jamon and Wine Day Any bottle of Spanish wine (20% discount) and Jamon Iberico Tuesdays: Paella Set Day Ensalada de Pollo and Albondigas and any choice of paella for KRW 55,000 (2 people) Wednesdays: Enomatic Day 25% discount on all wines by the glass

More info: When: 5pm-1am (Mon-Sat), 5pm-11pm (Sun), 12pm-4pm (Sat and Sun), Where:119-21, Itaewon-dong, Seoul, Korea, Website:www.micasa.kr Tel: 02-790-0063 Transport: Itaewon Station (Line 6, Exit 2)

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 29

paellas, with seafood, meat and black squid ink available for a minimum of two people per order. Wash it down with a glass of wine or some traditional fruity sangria for a taste of Spain in the middle of Seoul.

Mi Casa can help with suggestions to pair hot and cold dishes with wine, with a late tapas menu available for an after-dinner snack. Tapas dishes are served in bitesize portions to emulate the meal-sharing traditions of Spanish dining. The restaurant boasts over fifty boutique wines, chosen for their freshness, balance and character to match the menu. No less than 25 wines are served by the glass.

Just in time for its fifth anniversary, Mi Casa has recently undergone a renovation.

Trying to bring home more of that Mi Casa feeling, Tina has focused on providing a welcoming feeling that brings conversation to the table. With background music played at a low level to enhance the atmosphere, bring

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its own unique dishes. At Mi Casa, we aim to represent Spanish food with authentic dishes from each region”.

With great Spanish wine to accompany every dish, this year’s new menu aims to offer quality dishes without breaking the bank. The menu has a selection of tapas, divided into hot and cold bites, with the small eats including the Spanish favorites of cold meat and olives, marinated salmon, sautéed prawns and seasoned meatballs. A selection of meat and fish dishes offer regional staples including manchego cheese, jamon iberico prepared with joselito (purportedly the best jamon in the world) and the restaurant’s popular gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimps).

Of course, the restaurant has a selection of

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

TIME TO GIVE SOMETHING BACK Free after-school academy Giving Back offers English with a difference

30 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Story by Celeste Maturen Photos by Jeonghwa Park

private after-school education industry in Korea brought in tens of billions of won in 2015.

While individual hagwons disappear with some regularity, the industry itself is still on the rise. Competition to attend the best universities is as fierce as ever, and acing suneung is still paramount to a student’s future. Hundreds of twilight hours at hagwons are essential in the current educational climate, which pins a student’s life-long earning potential to the name of their alma mater. But many hardworking Koreans cannot afford to send their kids to after school academies.

Outside of public schooling, low-income families have few opportunities to further their children's education, handicapping these students in the race to the top. Scholarships and free Saturday lessons are offered by many academies but the opportunities for free or cheap long-term learning are thin. Thankfully, the struggles of low-income families aren’t invisible to everyone, especially not to Jeonghwa Park, the founder of a free after-school English

BUT MANY HARDWORKING KOREANS CANNOT AFFORD TO SEND THEIR KIDS TO AFTER SCHOOL ACADEMIES.

academy called Giving Back. Since April 2013, Giving Back has connected expat English teachers with small groups of underprivileged kids. Not only does Park seek to boost the students’ English skills, she’s also adamant about strengthening their confidence. “English is a big deal here in Korea for children to learn and

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

donations and the support of volunteer teachers from Korea and from various countries around the world. We have had many volunteer teachers from Ireland, the UK, the USA, Canada, Australia, Singapore, Vietnam, India, to mention just a few.”

All of those volunteers have pulled together to give their students more than just Wednesday night classes. Giving Back also holds weekend events like song contests, picnics, and themed parties to celebrate holidays like Halloween and Christmas. For Jenna Nelson, the 2015 Christmas party was especially memorable. After a singing contest between classes, each student opened presents from members of the Giving Back community - and then everyone enjoyed fried chicken and pizza. “It was a lot of fun and very laid back. It was great to see the kids perform what they had prepared and they were all happy with their gifts. It was great knowing we could do something like this for them.”

Giving Back is always looking for more volunteers, teaching supplies like books and used laptops and ideas for new events. If you’re interested in volunteering, send a pm to Jeonghwa Park on Facebook and join the group called Giving Back.

More info: Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/givingbackkorea Email: givingbackkorea@gmail.com

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 31

if they don't have economic support, they don't have chances to keep up with other children, so I want to help them.”

The program has helped about 150 students in total. This semester, Giving Back’s sixth, the student headcount has reached 36, and that’s nearing capacity. Thirty-six students may not seem like a lot, especially if you’ve ever caught a glimpse of a public school classroom, but the theory behind keeping student numbers low is all about focus, engagement, and empowerment.

Giving Back aims to keep a minimum of three teachers in every classroom of 10 students or fewer. The focus on each individual student is what spurs the learning process, and most importantly, according to Park, makes them feel loved. “The children are learning English and getting our affection too,” explains Park. “I hope that these classes will make their lives more enjoyable.”

While there are many volunteer opportunities available to foreigners who want to give back to their communities in Korea, for expat volunteers like Jenna Nelson, it’s most meaningful when there is an opportunity to build a relationship.

Nelson sought out Giving Back while looking for volunteer opportunities that she thought were truly meaningful, which for her meant being able to fully engage. “I don't speak much Korean,” says Nelson. “Teaching English, however, is something I can offer to Korean people as a foreigner, so I was looking for volunteer teaching opportunities specifically, and I also like working with kids.” Nelson joined the organization in October 2015 and commutes to the Giving Back center in Seoul’s northwestern neighborhood of Mapo-dong every Wednesday night. Along with other expat volunteers, Nelson arrives at 7pm to set up for the hour-long lesson which begins at 7.30pm. All of the learning materials used in the lessons are donated or bought with donations.

Giving Back donors are both large and small: from individuals to companies practicing generosity. Each year, Giving Back Korea holds a fundraising event that is open to the public, charging a small entry fee per person for a night of live music by Korean and expat artists.

There’s fun, food, and raffles for donated prizes like autographed K-pop CDs. The funds raised from these annual events keep the program running for the next twelve months.

Some organizations like the Seongsan Community Welfare Center have supported Park’s efforts from the very beginning while others have joined the ranks more recently. In 2015, Compass Media, an academic publisher based in Seoul, generously donated KRW 10 million worth of English textbooks and has become a fervent supporter of Giving Back. Park is grateful for any donation, but the most valuable is the time that volunteers give to the kids. “The project depends entirely on the kindness of sponsors and

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

SE ] CAUIP-HOP E B H CE S [ R IEN TH I 01 XPEDOI NG UND 20PPER E O A NG NGIULD BETED AR K IM, R A H C N R O FE- I W STA BOR A LOIUGHT ONG. I 016. S A L IT WVER TH TH IS IT’S 2 R W E I N FO ND NO A

32 www.groovekorea.com April 20162016 February

Story by Emma Kalka Photos by Garion

lub Master Plan has been known just as it started making the transition. Not in hip-hop circles as the mecca a stranger to the scene, he had been going to of underground Korean hip- the club as a fan since the late 90s. However, hop, running the gauntlet from he notes there was a marked difference in 1998 to 2002. But even years after the club the MP artists after the shift as they started closed, its impact still reverberates through focusing more on recording and releasing the Korean hip-hop scene. This is the last in a albums rather than just performing. two-part series on the club.

“When it transitioned into the label, it was For many in the underground hip-hop all about ‘I want to release a CD or album with scene in Korea, 2002 marked the end of an my name on it.’ So obviously there were some era. It was then that the famed mecca of huge changes that were happening,” he said. underground hip-hop, Master Plan, closed its The rapper is still sad at the club’s closing, doors to focus solely on music production. likening it to graduating from school as he However, the club did manage to go out recalls how he spent all his school years there with a bang, hosting its last - and perhaps and without the club, he no longer had a place largest - concert, aptly named “Still Alive.” to meet his friends or hang out.

While there is still next to zero videos on However, Born Kim is grateful for the the internet chronicling the club’s shows, one impact Master Plan had on him personally. lone remnant remains – a video post of the “It was a life-changing experience because show’s title track “Still Alive,” featuring many I never thought I would be doing this [hipof the Master Plan artists from the concert. hop] for this long. I started around 2001 and But while the club has gone, its impact now it’s 2016,” he says with a smile. has not. Most directly, Master Plan Music Yoo Yong-joo, who worked at the club (MPMG) opened, featuring many of the from 2000 until it closed, is also amazed by artists that had once performed at the club the impact the club had, stating it was the though, allegedly, only two artists from the reason he began pursuing his current career. hip-hop scene remain signed to the label.

Yoo now works in production at Brand New Rapper Born Kim started performing at Music, one of the biggest hip-hop labels in Master Plan in 2001 and signed with MPMG South Korea.

IT WAS THE OLD SCHOOL PROTOTYPE OF EVERY SINGLE MOVEMENT REGARDING KOREAN HIPHOP. - DJ SOULSCAPE

Until May 8 Exhibition National Geographic Monet’s Impressionism Exhibition

10am-6pm (closed Mondays), KRW 15,000 (adults), KRW 10,000 (age 7-18),KRW 8,000 (age 5-6), The War Memorial of Korea

Apr 1 Music A Fool’s Night – Nice Legs, Rough Cuts, Fancy Man 9pm, KRW 5,000, Salon Nomad, Shinchon

Apr 7 Film Steel Flower

Check general Listings, General release Around Korea

Apr 9 Music Taking Happy Hippy Vol 2

8pm, TBC, Hongdae Freebird (A.k.a Bigbird)

Music

Tom Jones

Check general Listings, General release Around Korea

Apr 13 Film Time Renegade

Check general Listings, General release Around Korea

Apr 13 Film Love Lies

Check general Listings, General release Around Korea

Apr 17 Exhibition Phoenix Rising Exhibition TBC,

Apr 23 Fundraiser White Lies Burlesque Presents: A Night At The Cinema!

10pm, KRW 10,000 (includes free shot and raffle ticket), Bedrock HBC, www.whitelies. me

Apr 28-May 7 Festival Jeonju International Film Festival

TBC, KRW 6,000-KRW 12,000, Check website for details, www.eng.jiff.or.kr

May 21-22 Festival Greenplugged

All Day, KRW 77,000 one day ticket KRW 119,000 two day ticket, Nanji Hangang Park

May 28-29 Festival Seoul Jazz Festival

All Day, KRW 245,000 two day ticket, Olympic Park

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 33

Emma Kalka is a freelance writer who runs the blog “Discovering the Korean Underground” on Tumblr, which focuses on the Korean underground hip-hop scene.

10am-7pm (closed Mondays), KRW 8,000 - KRW 15,000, Culture Station Seoul 284, Seoul Station, www.vangoghinside.com

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Master Plan was the backbone of Korean hiphop,” he explains.

However, even with the far reaching impact of Master Plan, Born Kim feels as though it’s better for newer generations to learn about the scene through their own desire to know more about Korean hip-hop, rather than having it forced upon them.

He compares it to sampling music. New listeners may not know that part of a track is sampled, but if they like the song, they’ll dig deeper and learn about the original. Along the same lines, if people like a song that he releases, they may dig a bit deeper and learn about Master Plan through him.

MC Meta, one half of Master Plan duo Garion, recalls that the club had an effect on not just the hip-hop scene, but on the music scene in general.

“I think Master Plan overall… had a cultural effect. It started as just music supporters and music lovers, and then it became a club, and then it became a label. I feel like this is a great transition,” he said.

For other old-schoolers like DJ Gass from Side-B, who has since left hip-hop to practice Korean medicine, it’s difficult to imagine what Korean hip-hop today would be like without Master Plan. It would exist, yes, but it wouldn’t be the same.

“If there was no Master Plan back then, the whole Korean hip-hop culture scene… it would have taken a lot longer to be established,” he argues.

But even with all the good that Master Plan has created, some of the more negative sides of the early hip-hop scene have also been passed on, according to rapper Vasco.

He remembers that, back in the old days, politics was always at play among the artists, which kept them from coming together and doing something even greater. He adds that, unfortunately, he still sees this happening today among the younger and newer artists.

“If we could get together, we can make something bigger. That’s [what I] assume, you know? Right now hip-hop is big in Korea again, so I want everybody to not make that mistake again,” he urged. “But I see we’re making the same mistake again.”

Even so, it seems the glory days of Master Plan will live on through the artists. As the producer Artisan Beats, formerly of Da Crew states: “I guess it's not Master Plan the company that should. be historical. It was the guys that actually performed there and the crowd that came.”

ENTERTAINMENT

“I had an interest in music, but I never thought I would work within the industry.

This became the reason why I… work in this industry today,” he says.

More than just having a personal impact on the Master Plan artists (many of whom are still active today), attention turns to the audience, some of whom went on to later become artists. Kebee and Minos, according to producer Artisan Beats, are fan-turnedartists whose careers the club has helped spawn.

The support continues with Shining Ground and Everyone’s Mic; two current shows for amateur rappers started by the Master Plan alum with the express intent of giving new rappers opportunities that were afforded to first and second generation rappers in the past.

MPMG also has a hand in putting on the Grand Mint Festival, an annual music event that takes place in the fall as well as the upcoming Hiphopplaya Festival on April 9, which features a large lineup of all the current big names in Korean hip-hop, including Master Plan alum Vasco.

A second label under MPMG called Happy Robot Sound steers away from hip-hop, focusing instead on indie rock, where it has seen great success.

Born Kim says the CEO of the company, Donmany, has great skill in finding emerging talent from the underground.

Outside that, the club has certainly set the stage for all hip-hop. DJ Soulscape, a member of Ill Skillz, calls it the home of all dreams and the birthplace of many artists, events, and even hip-hop labels. More than that, he explains how it has pioneered the early stages of hip-hop music distribution in the country.

“It was the old school prototype of every single movement regarding Korean hip-hop,” he concludes.

Born Kim continues along that train of thought, saying that Master Plan influenced the next generation of hip-hop artists, who then influenced others after them. He prefers to see it as a line of connections from one generation of hip-hop artists to the next, adding that even young artists who have never heard of Master Plan are still influenced by it.

“People like to define the scene in terms of generations, but I feel as though it’s through connections. It started with Master Plan and then that led to Soul Company, and then from Soul Company came Illionaire, Hi-Lite.

Until Apr 17 Exhibition Van Gogh Inside

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Moving to the

Psychedelic Gr

ve

Blue Turtle Land seeks freedom through improvisation and the influence of Jimi Hendrix

34 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Story by Liam Ring Photos by CJ Culture Foundation and Def Kim

ong is one of the most chilled out guys you will meet; friendly, polite, extremely laid-back.

The eccentrically-coiffured (and colorfully-attired) frontman of Blue Turtle Land looks like someone who stepped out of a 1960s counter-culture documentary. Speaking to him and his bandmates after a gig at Club Freebird late last year, you couldn’t help but get the feeling that this is a musician who plays as he would like to live; a person who truly feels that you can find out who you are by “being one

with music.” It may not have always been this way though, as he remembers always feeling tied down in his school-days, like somebody he wasn’t supposed to be. “Rock and roll had always been with me and it made me feel free.”

He takes that desire for freedom onstage every time he plays as well as when he composes.

The escape that rock offered Hong led him to embrace music more fully and led to his taking up blues piano. From there, a step back in time to the music of the 60s and 70s led to psychedelic rock influences and an interest in Korean groups such as He 6, whose go-go instrumentals have had a huge infuence on

Hong and his bandmates. And then of course there is Jimi. Hong has always felt a connection to Hendrix and his music. “His playing and the style of song writing has been a great influence on mine,” explains Hong. “I can tell he was 100% free while he was playing.” It’s an influence that plays strongly in both Blue Turtle Land’s performances and recordings, especially when you consider that bassist (and brother) Young also namechecks Hendrix as one of his favorites. Most of [the bands I like] are psychedelic rock, blues rock bands.” Young pauses to think for a moment. “I think I was just born to love this sound.”

ENTERTAINMENT

Korean rock festival Lovecamp as it offered an experience he had never encountered before.

Such festivals, Young feels, will be vital for the development of the band over the next few years so that more people can hear the band’s sound.

Looking to the next twelve months, the band hope to build on being chosen as the 16th CJ Tune Up artist in the coming year. It’s a massive boon for an indie band considering how much independent music in Korea can struggle for exposure within the K-pop tide. The accolade comes with mentoring, introductions to record companies and assistance with album production; the goal being to release a debut

album in mid-2016. The band are also excited about touring beyond Seoul, having developed the taste for it after performing in Tokyo in June last year, and there are plans ahead for performing at some of Korea’s outdoor festivals this year as well as a tour of Japan. This desire to tour, despite the challenges that scheduling can create, is perhaps encapsulated best by drummer De, who identifies music as responsible for his travels, friends and experiences “My life,” he insists, “would not be anything like it is now without music.”

Whether at a Happy Hippy event or elsewhere, an evening spent in the land of the blue turtle offers a blend of retro music and modern sounds that create something thoroughly unique.

Harking back to times spent listening to Hendrix, Cream and Iron Butterfly, the band is looking for all genders, ages and musical tastes to join them on their next psychedelic journey on the back of a giant blue turtle.

Check out Blue Turtle Land on Soundcloud at soundcloud. com/blueturtleland or at their next performance at Hongdae Freebird (a.k.a Big Bird) on Sat April 9th.

Website: facebook.com/blueturtleland Email: blueturtleland@gmail.com

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 35

How this translates into the band’s performances is one of the most important parts of enjoying Blue Turtle land’s particular oeuvre; something which seeks to channel the vibe flowing around them to help them express their ideas musically. Asked about what inspires him when writing, Hong points to how people live and act as part of society as one of things that fascinates him most. “We like to recommend our music to people who like to free their mind and explore the journey of life.” Taken together, it’s a concoction that can lead to heavy improvisation on-stage as the band seeks to push the envelope every time they play. For the audience, this can mean that no two Blue Turtle Band performances are quite the same and that imaginative leaps and creativity are encouraged from both sides of the microphone.

While playing in front of audiences at any venue is fantastic, Hong highlights the Happy Hippy events as massive fixtures in the band’s development. Playing at these psychedelic rock events feels like home to him and gives him a chance to feel connected to other performers and fans as part of a family.

Young also remembers the Woodstock-themed

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

“We like to recommend our music to people who like to free their mind and explore the journey of life.” – Hong from Blue Turtle Land

K–FILM: THREE BY…

EMPOWERMENT April’s K-Film Springs into the new season with a choice variety

36 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos courtesy of HanCinema

pril looks set to be a return to form for the Korean film industry after what was a relatively quiet March, and one that coincidentally links to the empowerment of last month’s International Women’s Day. The biggest films of the month focus primarily on female protagonists and their development into proactive, independent women, offering refreshing counter-programming in multiplexes that are so often dominated by male-orientated films and superhero fare.

STEEL FLOWER RELEASE DATE: April 7 DIRECTED BY: Park Suk-young STARRING: Jeong Ha-dam DISTRIBUTED BY: Indiestory the most well-received Korean independent titles to emerge. Director Park Suk-young is an up-and-coming talent in K-cinema and has consistently displayed keen insight into the plight of runaway youths on the fringes of Korean society. Actress Jeong Ha-dam is also a rising star, having recently appeared in hit Black Priests, as well as featuring in director Park Chan-wook’s highly anticipated upcoming drama The Handmaiden.

ENTERTAINMENT

Steel Flower explores the life of a young woman who is abandoned in the port city of Busan and forced to forge an existence on the streets. With no identification and an extremely reticent personality, she struggles desperately to improve her situation yet her efforts are scuppered by the local populace who seem intent on taking advantage of her situation. Premiering at the Busan International Film Festival last year, Steel Flower was one of

DID YOU KNOW? Steel Flower is the second in a proposed trilogy: one that began in 2014 with Wild Flowers (exploring the lives of three female teenage runaways) and will end with currently-in-production Ash Flower.

LOVE, LIES RELEASE DATE: April 13 DIRECTED BY: Park Heung-sik STARRING: Han Hyo-joo, Chun Woo-hee, Yoo Yeon-seok DISTRIBUTED BY: Lotte Entertainment

Set during the 1940s when Korea was under Japanese occupation, Love, Lies depicts the story of best friends, So-yool and Yeon-hee, two gisaeng aspiring to become top singers on the peninsula.

However, their friendship comes under threat when music producer Yoon-woo begins to fall for Yeon-hee’s charms, resulting in So-yool’s jealousy beginning to spiral out of control.

Arguably the most anticipated film to be released in April, Love, Lies looks

set to be a particularly stylish drama featuring glorious production values alongside a bevy of high profile talent.

Han Hyo-joo, Chun Woo-hee, and Yoo Yeon-seok are all household names in Korea - and interestingly all starred together in popular romantic fantasy The Beauty Inside last year - while the story involving music and romance during the oppressive colonial period will likely spark keen interest amongst Korean audiences.

DID YOU KNOW? Director Park has worked with Korean cinema’s ultimate leading lady Jeon Do-yeon three times on I Wish I Had a Wife (2001), My Mother The Mermaid (2004) and Memories of the Sword (2015).

TIME RENEGADE RELEASE DATE: April 13 DIRECTED BY: Kwak Jae-young STARRING: Lim Soo-jung, Cho Jung-seok, Lee Jin-wook DISTRIBUTED BY: CJ Entertainment resembles Yoon-jung - they work to solve it. Director Kwak Jae-young boasts an impressive filmography featuring strong women, and while Time Renegade marks something of a departure for the filmmaker, it will be very interesting to see how he explores the thrilling concept across time periods. Actress Im Soo-jung is also no stranger to the genre having delved into romantic thrillers in last

year’s Perfect Proposal, while Cho Jung-seok has featured in a string of well-received films over the past few years.

DID YOU KNOW? Director Kwak Jae-young was responsible for bringing the classic My Sassy Girl to the world in 2001, one of the most popular and empowering romantic films in Korean cinema history.

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 37

Time Renegade is perhaps the most unique offering to come from K-cinema this month, a romanticthriller that traverses two different time periods. In 1983, Yoon-jung is planning to marry her boyfriend Jiwan until she becomes embroiled in a murder case that ends disastrously.

In 2015, detective Gun-woo learns of the case from Ji-wan, and together with So-eun - a woman who strongly

JEONJU INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL GEARS UP FOR ITS 17TH EDITION

The 2016 film festival season gets underway with JIFF

ow in its 17th year, the Jeonju International Film Festival (JIFF) 2016 takes place between April 28 May 7. JIFF has long been the peninsula’s primary showcase for fresh independent cinema, continually serving as the launching pad for independent titles and new filmmaking talent, in addition to providing an introduction to foreign productions.

The festival will no doubt be hopeful for a repeat of last year's success, which saw an increase in admissions of almost 7,000 on the previous year. Furthermore, the decision to incorporate an extra multiplex and host outdoor screenings has proven particularly popular amongst cinema-goers and is highly likely to return for this year's celebration.

In terms of film, fans will be hoping to spot another big cinematic achievement in the vein of last year's Korean Competition Grand Prize winner, Alice in Earnestland.

Directed by Ahn Gooc-jin and produced by the Korean Academy of Film Arts (KAFA), the darkly satirical tale of a down-on-herluck woman forced to deal with macabre injustices premiered at JIFF in 2015 before later going on to achieve significant commercial success, scoring Lee Jung-hyun the Best Actress gong at The Blue Dragon Awards.

Festival officials have announced ten Korean feature films for the 2016 competition, which will all receive their world premiere at the event. The films will then vie for the coveted Grand Prize and an attractive cash reward, as well the CGV Arthouse Award, which provides the winner with invaluable distribution support.

Selected from 121 entries, the ten finalists consist of seven fiction films – Go Bong-su’s Delta Boys, Lee Hyeon-ju’s KAFA-produced Our Love Story, Jo Seong-eun’s With or

Let the screenings – and the 2016 film festival season – commence.

Website: eng.jiff.or.kr Tickets: Prices vary according to screening type. KRW 6,000 – KRW 12,000.

official poster of festival

38 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos by Jeonju International Film Festival

THE FILMS WILL THEN VIE FOR THE COVETED GRAND PRIZE AND AN ATTRACTIVE CASH REWARD, AS WELL AS THE CGV ARTHOUSE AWARD, WHICH PROVIDES THE WINNER WITH INVALUABLE DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT. Without You, Kim Jin-tae’s A Field Day, Kim Jong-gwan’s star-studded Worst Woman, Ryu Hoon’s Curtain Call, and Choi Jeongmin’s Press – and three documentaries. That three non-fiction works have been selected represents a significant increase in the

profile of the genre (last year having featured only one documentary title), with Lee Dongwoo’s No Preparation for Old Age, Yoon Jaejo’s Mrs. B. A North Korean Woman, and Go Hee-yeong’s Breathing Underwater all seeking to win over the jury. All ten titles

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

JIFF HAS LONG BEEN THE PENINSULA’S PRIMARY SHOWCASE FOR FRESH INDEPENDENT CINEMA, CONTINUALLY SERVING AS THE LAUNCHING PAD FOR INDEPENDENT TITLES AND NEW FILMMAKING TALENT, IN ADDITION TO PROVIDING AN INTRODUCTION TO FOREIGN PRODUCTIONS. April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 39

The official announcement of all events to will provide fierce competition in pursuit of for JIFF – will present director Cho Jaethe festival’s prestigious awards. min’s A Snow Day alongside director Kim be held and titles due to be screened at JIFF The Jeonju Cinema Project – a special Soo-hyun’s Seoul-based Great Patrioteers. 2016 will be available online from April 1, category in which the festival commissions Internationally, Argentinian director Lukas enabling all cineastes and film fans to plan three filmmakers (two Korean and one non- Valenta Rinner will also have his feature their schedules. Let the screenings – and the 2016 film festival season – commence.

Korean) to helm productions specifically film The Decent premier on the big screen.

PHOENIX FROM THE FLAMES ENTERTAINMENT

The Phoenix Rising Project Story by Jen Skuse Photos by KJER Photography, KI Photography, Bernard Black, Marco Tessiore

40 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

I can’t date her, she’s fat.” That was 15 years ago, a statement that still rips through me now.

It was not the first, nor sadly the last, comment about my body. My first memories are of being bullied, being told I wasn't good enough, wasn’t pretty enough. I even had a Valentine’s Day card I had made ripped up and thrown in my face with the scornfilled statement of “Like I would ever date you - we aren't even in the same league.” Kids are cruel.

We have all experienced being bullied or know someone who has been. Though for many, it stops after their school years. For me, it didn’t.

In university, I had letters posted though my door (“Do you even own a mirror?”) and answer phone messages (“I can’t believe that guy went

home with you. How does he not vomit seeing you naked?”). After 20 years, it wears you down.

You start to believe it. You start to believe that your worth is your attractiveness, which due to your size, is considered disgusting. The funny

thing is, with today’s plus size model industry, I really wasn't that big…. At 5’10 and 250 lbs., I was obese and unhealthy - but why was that a crime? Was it something so mortifying to others that they needed to torture me?

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

WAS IT SOMETHING SO MORTIFYING TO OTHERS THAT THEY NEEDED TO TORTURE ME? idea of waking up in ashes. I smeared my face and body with black paint and wore my favorite black tutu. I wasn't sure what to expect. When I turned up at the studio, I felt strange, something was off. After chatting with the photographer for a while I realized that my ex-boyfriend had been there the night before. When the photographer

asked if I was ok, I collapsed crying. He took me into the studio and asked me to tell him about the project, the break-up, my past. As I cried and told my story, he photographed me. What came from that was some of the most beautiful and haunting images of the whole project. It was in that shoot I knew that my vulnerability was what was needed for this project to ever be the healing force I wanted it to be. I was going to have to burn and burn again in front of the camera.

Looking back at the last 6 months, of what has come rising to the surface, I see the pain that I had hidden for so long. To tap into that, and to allow it to wash over me in order to release it, I don’t know how I have managed to keep it all in so far. It hasn't all been about pain though.

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 41

After I came to Korea, I took my health into my own hands, worked out, ate well, lost weight and became stronger. But I still felt like that fat girl nobody wanted. I remember one day looking in the mirror and not even recognizing who was looking back at me. I missed my fat, my comfort.

I didn't like this girl either. I felt disconnected and confused.

And then I was raped and sexually assaulted twice in the space of a month.

My body was in shock, I was terrified and felt completely helpless. Weak, feeble and angry. My body had been taken and used by someone else and I wasn't able to stop it. My body became the enemy and I became even more disconnected.

The final straw was when the man I loved told me, “I don’t love you and I’m not attracted to you anymore.” I was devastated and it sent me back to a time of self harm, self loathing and spiraling anxiety. But at the same time, something inside me, a small but determined voice, rose up from my very soul and told me, “This time we fight, this time you rise.”

This project started as a way for me to reconnect with myself, deal with my anxiety and my body image issues. I wanted to dedicate a year to learn about myself, read self-help books, get creative and follow my passions that I wanted to document and show what it was like, for me to rise out of the ashes of who I was and into the person I was always meant to be.

I talked to a life coach, wanting to get help and guidance in getting started on my healing journey. I talked about my life, from being bullied to taking control of my health. I talked about the sexual assault and went on retreats to reconnect with nature and my own body. My coach listened attentively, drinking in my story and then letting out a huge exhalation. “You’ve survived everything, and you always make the best out of everything and you learn. You are like a phoenix. A phoenix who rises from the ashes time and again.”

And it was decided, I would rise again, I would find a way to get my body and my sanity back and in the process of healing myself, I could help others. It started with a blog post, a video in which I told my story of being bullied and selfharm. And then the photographs came.

Each of these sets of photographs, videos and artworks is so unique and beautiful. I have the greatest memories working with creative and talented people from all over the world. From walking up a mountain in the rain to being naked in an abandoned mental asylum in subzero temperatures, they have been as physically demanding as they were mentally. Exploring both the rise of the phoenix, her power and strength, as well as the pain of burning and the despair of the ashes. For the first set of images

by KJER Photography, we had talked about the

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

42 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

I grew up in a loving household with no love for myself. I grew up appreciating beauty but seeing none in myself. I grew up afraid of mirrors and simultaneously unable to look away.

I grew up pinching myself, praying my fat would go away. I grew up understanding love but seeing it like a bystander. I grew up letting men touch me, craving validation for a vessel that should have been my temple. I grew up worshipping magazines and saluting shots. I grew up begging for attention, wanting to shine but with no idea how to turn on my divine light so I set myself on fire. Burning, I let the world pass me by as some stop to stare, most just walked along, a few grabbed my hand – some to drag me forward and some to just let me know, “You are not alone”.

This is what the project is about. You are not alone and neither am I. You are beautiful and you are worthy. The light in you wants so much to shine. I know what it is to burn and I don’t want you to have to. Daughters, sisters, mothers, friends.

Let me burn, let me rise, see my light and know, you are not alone. I am here. I will rise and I’m taking you with me.

Jen Skuse, https://learningtomakeit. wordpress.com/tag/art-therapy/

I have found strength, beauty and determination.

I have finally been able to accept how brave I am, and how capable I can be. It has been a crash course in how to love and accept yourself and I have come through it a better person.

I realized early on that, in order give this project my all, it would require more in the way of money than I was able to afford. I was so blessed to be collaborating with such generous and talented photographers and artists but with equipment and studio space to hire, it was becoming an expensive endeavor. So I decided to set up a crowd-funding page. I was really nervous at first: after all, this was a personal project and it was my form of therapy. I was embarrassed, ashamed even, to ask for financial aid but I was soon reassured by my friends that the message, my story, was something that people would want to support. And that being vulnerable, asking for help, was nothing to be ashamed of, but was in itself an act of bravery.

And so, nervous and unsure, I set up a gofundme page and was overwhelmed by the response by friends and strangers alike. When I got the first donation, I burst into tears, I was so humbled that someone believed in me, in my work. So far we have raised £1,295 (just over KRW 2 million) which has paid for the music video, studio costs and printing. With each donation, I felt freed, empowered. They sent messages of love and support, and understanding. One of the most humbling and beautiful parts of this project has been the love and support I have received from artists, creators and others. We have had over 20 expat photographers and artists involved. Eight sets of photographs, three films, an original music score, choreography and a collection of original art pieces have all been produced.

Curious as to why artists wanted to help me, I asked one of the photographers and the response was, “You are giving us license to look at your story, to take it and make it our own. It’s really beautiful, an honor really, to be part of something like this.” I was taken aback and so grateful.

By involving everyone, and allowing them creative control over my story, I was able to let go and surrender to the healing power of art.

Each brought their own unique perspective on my project, releasing their own phoenix.

Going forward, I want to bring this experience to others, by learning photography, using make up and costumes to release and spend time telling each other’s stories. This allows them the space and safety I have been granted to rise.

They say that to heal yourself, you heal the world. I hope that in some way this project will help others to rise, to heal and to fall in love with themselves. We all have a phoenix story to tell.

Here is mine. And together, we can rise and rise again.

Blogs and links: www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jOU4o2F0Bg www.learningtomakeit.wordpress.com/2015/09/13/the-phoenix-rising-project-resurrection-photoshoot/ www.learningtomakeit.wordpress.com/2016/02/27/from-the-ashes-making-of-a-movie/ www.learningtomakeit.wordpress.com/2016/02/22/the-phoenix-rising-project-the-phoenix-stumbles/ More info: The final exhibition will be held Sunday, April 17 (location TBC).

The online collection will be available to use May 1st @ https://thephoenixrisingprojectexhibition.wordpress.com

This is the place where you can experience Korean culture and get information about travelling in Seoul.

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Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center

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OPENING HOURS 10:30am - 7:30pm open everyday except New Year’s Day & Chuseok

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AIMING TO TURN THE TIDE

44 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

Jamsil's other occupants embark on a transition campaign.

Story by Luke Butcher Photos by LG Twins

LG Twins’ fans, 2015 was a year they would rather forget.

Struggling to find any form, their team finished anchored to ninth place out of ten teams, with only leaguenewcomers KT Wiz below them. To cap it off, fierce rivals and fellow Jamsil Stadium occupants Doosan Bears went on to win the Korean Series and the title. However, fans will be hoping that the day is darkest just before the dawn, and 2016 will be year of transition, development and possibly exciting times for the Twins.

One thing that has been promised this year has been a change of style and an introduction of young players. Manager Yang Sang-moon has promised to focus more on running and increasing the tempo of the Twins’ game, so expect to see more exciting steals and base running if you’re heading to a Twins game for

2016. This also means a generational shift away from the old guard to a new crop of younger, fresher players. Park Yong-taek, one of the more experienced and consistent performers and who

THERE PROMISES TO BE A GENERATIONAL SHIFT AWAY FROM THE OLD GUARD TO A NEW CROP OF YOUNGER, FRESHER PLAYERS. is often seen as the leader of the team alongside fellow outfielder Lee Byung-kyu, voiced his

approval of the change in an interview with Joongang Daily, even if it meant results would take a while to come. “Our concept is to create a new generation of the team. As a veteran player, this isn’t pleasing news,” Park told the newspaper. “Now, I have to compete against young players. It will be best if the team can execute both a generational shift and get good results. But if I had to pick one, I’ll go for the generation change.”

The Twins will certainly have to include some of the older guard while in transition, particularly due to the investment put into keeping Park and Lee on contracts. They are the joint highestearning outfield players, both collecting a cool KRW 800 million (USD 662,000) a year according to figures released by the KBO on February 11. They will have to justify that salary by producing the results on the field and by helping

to bring through new players. Another old star returning to LG will be legendary former pitcher Lee Sang-hoon. The man known for his flowing hair returns to the team for whom he pitched the final game of their title-winning season in 1994 as pitching coach after leaving rivals Doosan Bears. His move is part of a coaching shake-up that began midway through last year and has seen a number of Futures League coaches who have been looking after the team at the youth level shuffle up the ranks. Manager Yoon will be hoping they can give the team more energy right

Sosa and third-baseman Luis Jimenez, but has yet to decide what to do with the last allotted slot at the time of writing. Getting another pitcher in would make a huge difference to the team and allow Bong to settle into his more familiar closing spot, and this needs to be done sooner rather than later to give the players time to assimilate.

The team has certainly had a decent off-season in preparation for the big start, which will be in Daejeon against a resurgent Hanhwa Eagles.

The time spent in Okinawa getting fit, coupled with an opening pre-season run of four wins,

April 2 K-League Classic

Join Los Diablos - FC Seoul’s foreign supporters club – for the home fixture against Incheon FC 4.00pm Starts at KRW 15,000, Sangam World Cup Stadium, Seoul, www.fcseoul.com/en/main/main.jsp

K-League Challenge

Seoul Eland vs. Daejeon Citizen 2pm, Jamsil Olympic Stadium, www.seoulelandfc.com/Ticket/Ticket.aspx

Tournament

Next round of the Korea Expatriate Rugby Association (KERA), All day, Free, Featuring Seoul Survivors and other expatriate sides from around Korea, www.facebook.com/ SeoulSurvivors/

Tournament

Mid-season singles tournament (Itaewon Pool League), 3pm Sign-up, Free entry if eligible, JJ’s, 3 Alley Seoul, Sin Bin, JR Pub www.itaewonpool.org/

1st Korea International Ultimate Cup 9am to 5pm, KRW40,000 for KUPA, members / KRW50,000 for non-members Gyeongju, South Korea, www.facebook. com/KoreaUltimate/?fref=ts

Korea Touch (Rugby) Association 10am, Free, Jamwon Pitch, Apgujeong, Seoul, www.facebook.com/koreatouch/

April 4 and each Monday League Seoul International Darts League, 7.30pm Team fees apply, Bars around Itaewon and Haebongcheon including Wolfhound, RMT, Sin Bin., www.seouldarts.net/

April 5 ACL

FC Seoul vs. Shandong Luneng, Sangam World Cup Stadium, 7:30pm kick-off has seen optimism levels increased compared to last year. In addition, the Twin’s will benefit from a general weakening of 2015’s top four teams, although with other sides like Hanhwa and Lotte Giants also showing a significant improvement, expect one of the most competitive seasons ever.

Expect another difficult season for the Twins, but with the generational and style shift, there will be no shortage of excitement along the way.

LG Twins website (Korean only): www.lgtwins.com For more KBO information, check out: www.mykbo.net

April 6 and each Wednesday League

Itaewon Pool League, 7.30pm, Team fees apply, Bars around Itaewon and Haebongcheon including Scrooge, Sin Bin, Upper Deck. www.itaewonpool.org/

April 8 to 10 Overseas

Hong Kong Sevens tournament, All Day, Flights, tickets and accommodation applies

April 12 to 14 KBO

LG Twins vs. Lotte Giants, Jamsil Baseball Stadium , 6.30pm, www.mykbostats.com/games

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 45

from the off this year around.

One of the strongest areas for the Twins this year will be its starting rotation, which features star man Ryu Je-gook, who will be determined to improve on his more recent numbers, and solid KBO veteran Henry Sosa alongside the dependable Woo Kyu-min.

Interestingly Bong Jung-tkeun, normally Twins and national team closer, will also be given a starting position. This will further boost a strong looking rotation, but may leave the bullpen light of a sure hand. The main determiner of the season for the Twins will be if previous fringe players like infielders Hwangmok Chi-seung, Seo Sang Woo and young outfielder Ahn Ik Hoon can push on, fight for a regular spot and make LG a more dangerous proposition. All of them have put up decent numbers in their limited appearances, and if they can force their way into the team, LG will have a much more dynamic and threatening lineup compared to the stale way they began last year.

The major concern at the moment is the club still has to fill their third foreign player slot. It has retained its two Dominican stars, pitcher Henry

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

April 2 and every Saturday Team Training

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April 2-3 Korea Ultimate

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

46 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

NOT JUST ANOTHER SEASON Preparing for a fresh start and chasing ambitious goals in a new season of triathlon Story by Johan Stofberg Photos by Quintin Coetzee and Seo Ungjin

ooking back at this time last year, I definitely did not expect 2015 to be a season where I would stand on a podium after a triathlon race. I hadn’t even been in the sport for more than six months before that, but the year played out way differently and better than I projected, and I even qualified for the Ironman 70.3 World Championships taking place on September 4 this year.

I am super excited for this year’s triathlon training and the races lying ahead. With a fairly long winter behind us, most training was done indoors. Some of these sessions included strength workouts in the gym and many run and cycling interval sessions on the treadmill and bicycle - alternating between going fast and slow. This has trained my body to recover faster while being active, which is especially important for longer distance events.

Those who have done cycling on a trainer during these cold months will know that it’s not the most enjoyable environment looking at the same four walls while burning a sweat and not moving forward an inch.

Going into my official second season of triathlon, my focus now will be even more on the little things like

April 16 K-League Classic

FC Seoul vs Suwon FC, 2pm, Starts at KRW 15,000, Sangam World Cup Stadium, Seoul, www.fcseoul.com/en/main/main.jsp

April 19 to 21 KBO

LG Twins vs. NC Dinos, Jamsil Baseball Stadium, 6.30pm, www.mykbostats.com/games

April 20 ACL

FC Seoul vs Buriram in the Asian Champions League, 7.30pm, Starts at KRW 15,000 Sangam World Cup Stadium, Seoul, www. fcseoul.com/en/main/main.jsp

April 23 K-League Challenge

I SEE EVERY RACE AS AN OPPORTUNITY TO LEARN FROM MY AND OTHER ATHLETES’ MISTAKES AND SUCCESSES…

Tournament

All day, Free, T.B.C., www.facebook.com/ SeoulSurvivors/?fref=ts

April 29 to May 1 KBO

LG Twins vs. KT Wiz, Jamsil Baseball Stadium 6.30pm, www. mykbostats.com/games

For any questions regarding triathlon, you can contact me at stofbergtri@gmail.com

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 47

If it becomes only about winning and the fun is forgotten, triathlon would be just another job instead of a passionate journey to live out my dream. Triathlon might seem like an individual sport, but I can testify that the tremendous support I receive from people around me is what plays a massive part in driving me to perform at my best. That is what caused me to achieve a podium spot for almost every race I did last year. So, for me, triathlon is a “team” effort.

I am blessed with an amazing wife who supports me massively by cooking healthy food for us daily and encourages me to not give up when the training gets tough. This helps me to stay focused on my training and be able to get enough rest for recovery.

So, if you want to join in on the fun, why not sign up for a race this year? Get some friends to train with you and challenge yourself with an exciting new goal. The triathlon racing season starts on May 1 and runs through summer and fall. Find out more details at these websites: www.triathlon.or.kr and www.koreatri.or.kr. These websites list almost all of the races in South Korea for the year.

If you’re looking to join a club or find out more about the sport, go to the Seoul Synergy Multisports Talk Facebook page. We are a club in Korea with various nationalities who love to be active and some get together to train weekly. It’s just more fun with a community around you."

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

are in South Korea, part of either the Korean Triathlon Federation (KTF) series, the Korean Triathlon Association (KTA) series or Ironman.

Since I won gold for both the KTF and KTA series last year, I will do my best to finish on top again in the season to come. I see every one of these races as an opportunity to learn from my and other athletes’ mistakes and successes, and then use that to improve my own performance.

The bigger of these races, which I would recommend signing up for, include the ones in Daegu (May), Sokcho (July) and Gunsan (July).

One of the big challenges I see myself facing is to keep training the way I did the past couple of months and increasing the hours as the season progresses. Putting in an average of 12 to 14 hours a week accompanied by a full time job puts a lot of stress on my body. This stress influences my training by making me more tired during the sessions, thus I’m sometimes not able to execute my goals as planned.

Another obstacle that might arise in my subconscious is overthinking my performance during a race. After having a great year in 2015, it can be easy to only think about the end result of a race and forget about the little things I need to do right - getting my wetsuit off after the swim, putting on my bike helmet quickly, my body position while running.

These are just some of the things that might throw off your focus when you’re not doing them right. This overthinking might also let you forget about the enjoyment of good competition in the sport.

My main goal for the year is to enjoy every aspect of this sport. I aim to achieve this by training the best I can, having fun while racing and making new friends along the way. I can win every race or compete at the highest level, but if this was without appreciating the journey to its full worth, my hard work would be in vain.

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technique and form and how to race at my full potential. I can already see the benefits in my training after working on these aspects during the off-season. Although I was not able to test my fitness levels in a race these last couple of months, I believe the good training that I’ve done will pay off well. For one thing, by using my watch and heart rate monitor, I am able to see that I’m running faster at a lower heart rate which is definitely a good sign. The core focus of doing this sport, however, will stay the same…having fun and pushing my body to its limits.

I’ve set my goals and am ready to overcome my own limitations by pushing my body and mind beyond its boundaries. I see this year as another stepping-stone to learn more about the sport and work on every aspect to mature as a triathlete.

It’s an ambition of mine to do this sport full time in the future and therefore it is important to approach every training session and race wholeheartedly.

Moving on to the races for this year, the most important one (my A-race) will be the Ironman 70.3 World Championships in Mooloolaba, Australia. Over 2,000 athletes from all over the world will join together to test themselves against the course and each other. I honestly feel privileged to be able to compete in such an event after being in this sport for only just over a year. I will be able to measure myself against some of the top triathletes in the world and am looking forward to seeing how this adrenaline rush will influence my performance. Grabbing the opportunity to both perform at my best and build experience will be a huge aid for the future.Concerning other races, I will compete in a couple of Olympic distance and Half Ironman distance events to make sure I’m fully prepared for the race Down Under. All of them

Seoul Eland vs. Goyang Zaicro, 4pm, Jamsil Olympic Stadium, www.seoulelandfc.com/ Ticket/Ticket.aspx

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SECOND TIME LUCKY FOR SEOUL ELAND? The Jamsil based club look to make the great leap forward

48 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Story by Steve Price of www.kleaguefootball.com Photos by Seoul Eland

hen, in the 43rd minute, Yoon Sung-yeol’s low shot swerved past Suwon’s keeper and in off the post, the few Seoul Eland fans who had braved the freezing November sleet caught a glimpse of the promised land: promotion to Korea’s top-flight.

It was not to be. Suwon FC found an equalizer with the last kick of the first half, and a goal for either side in the second half meant that the match finished 3-3. With a draw not enough due to the vagaries of the league’s playoff format, the result meant that Seoul Eland were knocked out of the playoffs. Suwon FC, after beating Daegu and Busan, would join its more illustrious neighbors, Suwon Bluewings, in the K-League Classic. Seoul Eland would spend another season in Korean football’s second tier.

To come so close to promotion in the first season of the club’s existence might seem like

an achievement in itself. Glass-half-empty types, however, are bound to point out that, with the highest wage bill in the second tier, more should have been expected of Martin Rennie’s charges. Many pundits pointed to the club’s poor defensive record - the 58 goals they conceded the third highest in the league - as the primary reason for not gaining promotion, although league champions Sangmu Sangju had only conceded one fewer than Eland over the course of the season. While Eland want to keep up their thrilling brand of attacking football - manager Martin Rennie claims that his team is “probably the most exciting in Asia” - improving their defense has been its priority this winter.

With that in mind, most of Eland’s incoming players this year have been brought in to bolster its back line. The signing of Kim Dongchul from Jeonnam Dragons is quite a coup for

the club, as is Lee Kyu-ro, who joins the Seoul Eland defence from K-League champions Jeonbuk Motors. Trinidad and Tobago international Carlyle Mitchell is likely to be partnered with new arrival Kim Dong-jin in the center of defense, despite the veteran Korean spending the early part of his career as a full back. Rennie has described the former Korean international as “the Korean Maldini,” and his experience is sure to benefit the younger players in the Eland squad. As Martin Rennie likes to test players in different positions, all three of these new signings may well be seen in different places along the back-line.

Up front, last season’s star players Joo Minkyu and Tarabai will be looking to continue where they left off; the pair managed 40 league goals between them in 2015. They are joined in attack by Brazilian Jonatas Belusso, who scored 15 goals for Gangwon FC, giving Eland possibly

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

Korea’s fourth tier whilst managing Pocheon FC last season.

Fans will be hoping that these large scale changes in personnel mean that the team has learned from the mistakes made during the previous campaign. Seoul Eland will be expecting to improve on its fourth place finish, but despite all of the changes in personnel, promotion will be tough this year. After getting relegated last season, Busan and Daejeon have both revamped their squads, and will be looking to return to the K-League Classic at the first time of asking. Busan have managed to bring in former Gyeongnam striker Milos Stojanovic along with Ko Min-kyung, who scored 16 league goals for Anyang FC last season. Daejeon managed to pull off quite a coup by signing Suwon Bluewings target Kim Dong-chan from Jeonbuk Motors. They have also bolstered their defence, bringing in former Malaga defender

Alvaro Silva and Romanian defender JeanClaude Bozga. Daegu, who missed out on promotion by the narrowest of margins last season, will also be in the mix. They finished last season level on both points and goal difference with Sangmu Sangju, who were promoted ahead of them based on goals scored. Daegu were then narrowly beaten by Suwon FC in the play-offs.

Those three sides plus Seoul Eland will make it one of the most exciting Tier 2 seasons ever.

Seoul Eland’s poor start to the last campaign ultimately cost the club as, even after their great run towards the end of spring, it was unable to make top spot its own. With a settled team and some good acquisitions, Seoul Eland will be hoping to go one better than last season and earn promotion at the second time of asking.

You can catch up with the latest Seoul Eland news on its Facebook page or website.

Website (Korean only): www.seoulelandfc.com

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 49

the most potent strike force in the league. Also looking to break into the forward line is young striker Cho Woo-jin, who impressed last season at Ulsan Mipo Dolphins, and will be hoping to carry his goal-scoring form over to Seoul Eland this season. With such strong striking options, and with no plans to change their attacking style, visitors to Leoul Park should expect to see plenty of goals this season.

A number of players have seen the exit door too, including first teamers Robert Cullen, Cho Won-hee, and Hwang Do-yeon, with the latter returning to Jeju United after his loan ended. Cho Won-hee’s move in particular may surprise fans as the midfielder made the step up to K-League runners-up Suwon Bluewings. Another key departure is that of coach Kim Hee-ho, who left the club to become the assistant manager of rivals Busan.

His replacement, In Chang-soo, won the K3,

50 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

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FROM A HANDFUL OF EXPATS, THE GROUP HAS GROWN TO THE ORGANIZING GROUP THAT CONSISTS OF MORE THAN 12,000 PEOPLE TODAY ON FACEBOOK.

More Than Just

A Basketball Community GOAT Basketball offers action on the court and camaraderie off it Story by Graeme Klayh Photos by GOAT Basketball

aking a new life in a foreign country can be difficult, especially one where the language is different to your own. South Korea can be accommodating to English-speaking folk, but it only goes so far. That's why, before arriving in Seoul this March, Dominic Dutrisac-Savard, a Montreal native, searched for a group that he could at the very least play basketball with to get some exercise. What he discovered was much more; a community of basketball players from all over the world called GOAT Basketball Korea. "It was my second day in Seoul, and I went to a scrimmage where I met some guys who actually invited me to their house for drinks where I met even more friends." Dominic is not the only person to benefit from the community either, as the organization hosts regular games and events for people from all over the world.

GOAT Basketball Korea started in 2013 with a few friends who just wanted to play organized basketball. Hindson Her and a few of his friends believed in his idea to build a basketball

THE THING ABOUT GOAT IS YOU GET TO MEET SO MANY PEOPLE. YEAH OF COURSE I LOVE PLAYING BASKETBALL, BUT I FEEL SO FORTUNATE TO HAVE EXPERIENCED WHAT GOAT OFFERS OFF THE COURT.

community that hadn't previously existed in Seoul. From a handful of expats, the group has grown to the organizing group that consists of more than 12,000 people today on Facebook.

Many of the founding members still live in Korea, like Zack Navarro from Toronto, Canada, "I've been with GOAT since it started and it's amazing to see how much it's grown over the years and how diverse it has become. It's really awesome to see."

Every week, GOAT organizes one or more scrimmages for anyone to play. Hindson takes it upon himself to prepare for each game day.

"A lot of prep happens during the weekdays that leads up to the actual game day. I think I’d lose all my hair if I tried to wing everything that morning; I’d imagine it being really stressful.” On game days, especially in the mornings, Hindson tries to wake up early and double check everything that needs to be communicated, the

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 51

Website: www.goatbasketballkorea.com/ Contact: goatbasketballkorea@gmail.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/goatbasketballkoreamedia

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required documents, and equipment that needs to be on the court. Hindson is usually too busy to play in the games himself, which he says he has no problem with, so long as everything goes smoothly for the players.

The active members in GOAT range from amateurs to ex-professionals, and come from all over the world. The meshed international community is always friendly, and if there are any issues, it usually happens on the court where the competitive nature of people takes over. Are there any problems on the court? “Yes and no. I keep referring back to this point, but the community sense in GOAT balances things out and cancels any negativity that might come from game play.” The non-league games are always fun and easy, but when a championship is on the line, the competitiveness will always increase.

Running twice a year, a GOAT season spans eight weeks including a draft night, sponsors’

nights, game days, and playoffs. A major reason why players love GOAT basketball leagues is because each player's individual statistics are recorded for each game so they can compare, see progression, and most of all, brag. All players who sign up to participate are entered into a draft pool and from that pool, qualified captains are selected. The captains go on to work with Hindson, the directors, and the team which they drafted themselves. After the regular season is over, the playoffs begin. The team that comes out undefeated is the champion, whom GOAT crowns on site. The real celebrating though (with the majority of league players) starts later at night and is usually hosted by one of the sponsors.

You could ask Hindson Her if this group is about basketball, but he would insist it is about so much more. Since his youth, Hindson has dreamed about building a community like GOAT, and he has only just begun. It’s an active community which has built to over 1,700 combined players and fans in a short three years. “It’s a great group and you come across so many different people who have different experiences - you learn so much. There’s also such a big network as well that someone, somehow is connected to everything. It really helps if you’re looking for connections to build up whatever it is you might be doing." Like Dominic from Montreal, countless people have found connections through the organization, be it for business, basketball, or friendship. Andrew Lujan from New Mexico, Albuquerque, came to Seoul a year ago and spoke to what the group means to him on and off the court, "The thing about GOAT is you get to meet so many people.

Yeah of course I love playing basketball, but I feel so fortunate to have experienced what GOAT offers off the court. That's friendship and that's more meaningful to me than any game of basketball."

GOAT Basketball offers basketball to people from all over the world. If you would like to get involved, GOAT posts pickup games and league invites on the Facebook community page and players simply need to write their name in the comments to ensure a spot on the court.

Hindson Her and his team, Jason Minkee Kim (Director), JJ Kim (Director), Steve Kim (Network), and Sherman Shi (Photos and Media Director), have pushed GOAT further than they ever thought possible. On March 10, GOAT Basketball Korea became a registered non-profit organization in South Korea, and Hindson believes this is just the beginning, "We really want to try and offer a great experience when players come out to ball with us. It’s been a great learning experience but I’m positive that it’s going to be quite special."

Joe McPherson’s BBQ Pub Graces the Slow-Cooked Scene FOOD & DRINK

Former GROOVE Food Editor Joe McPherson chases a smoky, savory passion

52 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Story and photos by Robert “Bob” Kienzle

an American from the south, a highlight of visiting home used to be Southern barbeque. I’d have my family buy it for dinner so it’d be there waiting for me next to a bottle of Blanton’s bourbon. Now I just request bourbon because Southern barbeque has secured a presence in Korea’s dining scene.

Alabama native and famous expat foodie Joe McPherson* has just added yet another terrific option: McPherson’s BBQ Pub. McPherson’s doesn’t feel like a pub at all.

Sure, it’s got beer on tap, bottles of bourbon and rum and cocktails with mini airplane bottles sticking out the top of soda cans, but it’s got the setting of a home in the Deep South complete with fancy patterned wallpaper, framed pictures and mounted news clippings reminiscent of countryside restaurants.

Round one is Alabama anju (also known as appetizers). McPherson’s specializes in three different dips: roasted pimento cheese, classic French onion and warm spinach artichoke.

Each one is 4,900 won or try all three for 7,900 won served with tortilla chips and wavy salted potato chips. The roasted pimento dip held the flavor of backyard cookouts. All the dips were grand, but the pimento stood out

as the most undeniably Southern. For round two, there’s the bbq: pork or chicken. But why not both? For 30,900 won, McPherson’s serves up a large Taste of Alabama platter with 200 grams of pork, a whole chicken, three choices of sides, bread and jalapenos. There’s a smaller “regular” platter as well as a larger “OMFG” size. The largest size is enough for two hungry Southerners, three hungry Yankees or four hungry non-Americans. For the price, McPherson’s has the largest servings out of all the top Seoul Southern barbeque spots.

McPherson’s pork rivals the competition. It’s got its own taste from whatever McPherson does to his meat for hours and hours.

Whatever it is, it works.

Sometimes barbeque dries out when wrapped, taken home, left in the fridge overnight and microwaved the next morning, but not the pork at McPherson’s. It’s difficult for barbeque places in the USA to differentiate

their tastes without using sauce. McPherson’s has it down. The chicken, however, is the highlight of the menu. It’s brined for hours before it’s smoked, and then fried. Smoked chicken is amazing when done right. That McPherson’s is coated in homemade batter and then deep fried adds that much more flavor and texture. It is very likely the best tasting chicken in the city.

McPherson’s adds variety to the experience with three different barbecue sauces. The white Alabama sauce was the standout, but the meat at McPherson’s can stand alone.

As for the crucial side dishes, McPherson’s offers fries, mac and cheese, potato salad and coleslaw plus other specialty sides to choose from including the Brunswick Stew. The stew is full of bbq meat, potatoes, tomatoes, and veggies. Sandwiches are also available for those rolling solo.

Save yourself a flight to Birmingham or Tuscaloosa. Hop on subway line 5 to Omokgyo Station and hit up McPherson’s BBQ Pub to taste the best of Alabama.

228-4 Mokdongdong-ro, Yangcheon-gu, Seoul 02-6406-6690 www.mcphersonsbbqpub.com

*Joe McPherson served as Groove’s Food & Drink Editor in 2015.

Food:

Ambiance:

Service:

Value:

Score:

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Sweet Steams Are Made OF T his A no-fear guide to rice cooker baking

54 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Story and Photo by: Charlotte Ham

mond

can’t remember how long it took me to realize that my first kitchen in Korea was ovenless. Was it weeks after I moved into my first officetel apartment? Was it days? The first hour? I gave it a “well this is new and different” expat shrug. I resolved to improve my fried rice and experiment with Korean soups. If I was homesick, I’d make pancakes or grilled cheese. But as time went by I spent Sunday after Sunday casting blank stares across my 12 square foot kitchen, wistfully stuck on baked potatoes. Casseroles. Blueberry muffins.

Eventually a departing coworker sold me her convection oven. For a while that sufficed.

I baked banana bread, generously adjusting the baking time from the recipe. Vegetables would moisten, soften and brown. Tiny cuts

of meat would roast pretty well in my little hot were through. I didn’t have the money to buy a box that melted any object within inches of its quality standalone oven. As a renter in Seoul, a “real” oven that required proper installation radiant neon glow. was likely out of the question.

Repeated failure struck when I tried to get I turned to an appliance fancy. Cake after standard sheet , y that had never caused me cake would emerge after hours ff The fluhewy a moment of pain: my with gooey cores and rocky c lig htly that is cheerful, chirpy Cuckoo. circumferences. Adjusting texturellmark My rice cooker, the the temperature, setting and the ha fectly magic machine capable bake time was of no use. My of per d rice of steaming anything boyfriend and I ate our halfsteame alizes to perfection, would be chicken Christmas dinner materi rice my key to fresh bread in shifts, dismembering the too in er and birthday cake. cooked breast from the stillcook With a little trial and error raw drumsticks. I’ve never treats. and Internet consultation, my hurled insults at a household steam dreams came true. Brownies, appliance with the same zeal.

When I moved to a new apartment, cakes, sweet and savory breads are all I relocated the oven to the curb. The two of us a veritable cinch in a rice cooker. The fluffy,

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

CHINE CAPABLE OF MY RICE COOKER, THE MAGIC MA , WOULD BE MY KEY TO TION STEAMING ANYTHING TO PERFEC RTHDAY CAKE. FRES H BREAD AN D BI baking. A three quart rice cooker can handle recipes for baked goods that call for about 1 to 1.5 cups of flour. When baking with a three quart cooker, you may need to halve or reduce any recipes that call for 2 or more cups of flour.

Those using a very large rice cooker should consider doubling or adjusting their recipe to 1.5 times the given amount.

When the prepared batter is inside the rice cooker’s dish and ready to bake, set your rice cooker to steam (찜) using the “menu” button (it’s “menu” written in Korean: 메뉴).

(In a Cuckoo, the arrow on the screen should align with the word 찜.) Once you’ve selected steam, the screen will display a default time in minutes. To change the steam time, press the 예약 (“timer”) button which should up the time. Keep pressing until you reach the correct number of minutes.

You can then press “cook” (최사) to begin baking. It’s good to check the rice cooker once or twice while baking is underway--you may need to add or reduce time accordingly. Test the center of your creation with a toothpick or chopstick to make sure it’s not raw in the middle. The utensil should come out clean.

Beginner’s Recipe Easy Yellow Cake in a Rice Cooker Requires 1 box yellow cake mix Spoonful of oil to grease the pan (preferably coconut oil) Prepare cake batter according to the box directions. (I don’t read Korean fluently and I find most prepackaged baking directions are visual and easy to follow.)

Grease the pan evenly with oil before pouring in the batter. Bake for given time on box instructions (Typically 45 min - an hour.)

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 55

lightly chewy texture that is the hallmark of perfectly steamed rice materializes too in rice cooker treats. Temperature control, a challenge when working with most ovens, is never a concern when baking with a Cuckoo.

Bake or steam time, on the other hand, can take some finesse. Another caveat is that the rice cooker is limited to baking in the round.

Muffins become muffin cake, lemon bars will result in a few lemon squares and a few lemon crescents. You get the idea.

A general guideline for baking with a rice cooker.

Note: These directions are most compatible with a Cuckoo rice cooker, a very popular Korean brand. My rice cooker’s size is three quarts. (You can check the size in your rice cooker’s manual.) You will need to take the size of your rice cooker into account when

56 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Kong Project A YEARLONG JOURNEY FROM SEED TO SAUCE Story by: Jordan Redmond Photos by: James Thole and Anna Jo

Stage 1 - Planting Seeds

of how Unsure r should e a far m , I wore dress ants, a p hiking rungy New g f o ers, pair e sneak Balanc lig ht grey and a sing shirt exerci would which darken quicklyweat and f rom s oil. s arming is no laughing matter.

But it was the subject of a longrunning joke between my fiance and I that would begin a yearlong experience taking soybeans from seed to sauce using only traditional methods. As a way to ingratiate myself to her parents who are career farmers, I'd often kid about doing something to confound their expectations of me, a foreign English teacher. I'd pitch a goat farm to her father so as to exploit the unknown, gaping hole in Korea's goat cheese market or learn from her mom how to make meju, the building block of soy sauce and doenjang, Korean fermented bean paste.

One day, on my regular lengthy subway commute, Facebook, as is its wont, dropped an unexpected opportunity into my lap.

Gachi CSA, an organic food organization,

had one spot open for its "Kong Project", a project committed to taking the humble soybean (or kong in Korean) from its nascent seed form all the way to pungent, addictive doenjang and its by-product: soy sauce.

I asked my fiance for her approval to sign up.

I asked her if it would win her parents' favor.

Her answer was an unequivocal "yes." She also insinuated that I'd been all talk and no action about doing something traditionally Korean and agricultural for too long. It was enough to get me to wire the participation fee immediately.

What had I just done? A year of waking up at 6am on the weekends to go out to Namyangju, an organic farming hub just east of Seoul and a 90 minute train journey from my apartment. What would happen to my beloved Saturday nights?

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

despite the heat and early hour. The group was heavily composed of long-term foreign residents (folks who had been here four years or more) all of whom had a similar objective to mine: looking to connect to our adopted culture and home. There was a young Korean couple who were advertising agents by day. There were two families with squealing, excited children who rolled around in the mud and offered moments of levity. The indispensable Byung-soo Kim, owner of our location, Hansol Farm, and a few Gachi employees were there to lead us.

The first day was every bit as backbreaking as I had fretted. Armed with only spades and gloves, we slashed at weeds and needly vines.

The earth was dry and rocky, each puncture of the soil turned up dust and detritus as insects scurried away from their previously safe haven. Mercifully for my crouching knees and blistering hands, we took a long, rejuvenating lunch break for farm-fresh salad, bread, and pasta. The highlight of the meal was pulled

chicken made from two year old rooster that was slow-cooked overnight before our arrival.

Reborn, we entered the second part of our farming day: getting the seedlings into the ground. Byung-soo, perhaps having pity for our amateur farming status, got the plants started for us a couple of weeks prior and so we had perky, green seedlings to bed into the soil.

We worked in long rows, one person ahead of the other: the front person preparing a small hole and the following person lovingly tucking the seedlings into their bed. Our cooperation would bode well for the future of the project.

At the end of the day, I returned home bruised, blistered, and somewhat broken. The bemused and boisterous hikers returning to Seoul no doubt thinking I had also been scaling a mountain. Little did they know my journey had just begun.

Jordan Redmond will be sharing more experiences with The Kong Project in coming issues.

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 57

My only previous farming experience was in elementary school working in my uncle's chicken coops. It was a short-lived endeavor that promptly ended as soon as I picked up a dead chicken which then posthumously urinated on my hand. In horror, I retreated to the truck and ate cold pizza. Would I do the adult equivalent this time around?

My first farming date was set for the final day of May. I arrived at 8:30am at Ungilsan Station, Namyangju. Unsure of how a farmer should dress, I wore hiking pants, a pair of grungy New Balance sneakers, and a light grey exercising shirt which would quickly darken from sweat and soil. Another question on my mind surrounded the cast of characters with whom I would be undertaking such a long project. What happens if they flake out? Would that be more work for the rest of us? Will we all get along or will things devolve into a Lord of the Flies-like struggle to survive? On the first balmy morning my fears were quelled.

Everyone was smiling and more than pleasant

Boxing Cat Brewery Stops Over in Seoul Mikkeller Seoul Welcomes Brewer from a Shanghai Stronghold Story and Photos by Rob Shelley Additional photos courtesy of The Booth

hile drinking beer in Taipei, The Booth and Mikkeller Seoul co-founder, Sunghoo Yang, happened upon Boxing Cat’s beers. Due to Chinese regulations on microbreweries, Boxing Cat doesn’t make it outside of its home turf in Shanghai very often. However, Yang isn’t shy about reaching out to people to make things happen. This February, Michael Jordan, the head brewer of Boxing Cat, accepted Yang’s invitation to haul some of his beers to Seoul for the very first time.

Jordan is American and looks the part of a craft beer devotee despite sharing his name with an NBA legend. Jordan’s Meet the Brewer event

takes pride in his pale ales and IPAs. The Sucker Punch Pale Ale had a nice tropical taste while Boxing Cat’s flagship beer, the TKO IPA, was like a ramped up version of the Sucker Punch.

However, Korea does not lack for strong IPAs, so these beers weren't exactly revelatory. Instead, Boxing Cat stands out for doing beer types that are still scarce in the Korean craft scene.

Boxing Cat’s Sugar Daddy Imperial Stout was inspired by crème brulee and features coconut, vanilla beans, coffee, caramel, and chocolate flavors. It’s aged four months in French cognac barrels before it is ready to drink. Surprisingly, the beer wasn’t strikingly sweet BUT was well-balanced enough to drink all day. At an astounding 14.5% ABV, the Sugar Daddy could

58 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

THE QUALITY OF BEER IS RISING AND THE CONSUMERS ARE MORE IN TUNE WITH CRAFT BEER THAN EVER BEFORE. IT'S A SUPER EXCITING TIME FOR CRAFT BEER IN ASIA. at Mikkeller Seoul attracted a lot of attention in the Seoul beer geek scene. A crowd crammed into Mikkeller Seoul’s tiny location to hear the man from Shanghai talk about beer and, perhaps more importantly, to try some of his brews.

Jordan is a self-pronounced “hop head” who

be called the Cassius Clay: a heavyweight that’s light on its feet.

The other three beers Boxing Cat had on offer all hit their mark. The King Louie, an 8% ABV Imperial Stout, packed a powerful porter taste with satisfying smokiness. The number

two standout behind the Sugar Daddy was the Funky Barrel Full Nelson Saison. It evoked apple and was refreshing and bright like a light sour beer. It had a clean, smooth, green apple front with a slightly tart “brett” (or sour) finish.

As warmly as Michael Jordan was received here in Seoul, he seemed just as grateful to see the city for the first time. “It was my first trip to South Korea and I really enjoyed the experience.

The staff at The Booth showed us around after the event as we had some amazing food and then visited a couple beer spots before wrapping up the night at Magpie Brewing.” Jordan predicts that the next two years will be huge for beer in Asia: “The quality of beer is rising and the consumers are more in tune with craft beer than ever before. It's a super exciting time.”

Boxing Cat looks forward to a big 2016 as it launches more barrel-aged and bottled beers, and looks to share more brew with Shanghai, China, and Asia in general. For now, you can find Boxing Cat in Shanghai at their three brewpubs and their new spin-off location, the Liquid Laundry Kitchen and Brew.

More Info: www.boxingcatbrewery.com Rob Shelley writes about craft beer and keeps a Korean Beer Directory and Upcoming Events page at www.

CraftBeerAsia.com/Korea.

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

‘YUK-KAL’ NOODLE SOUP IS A MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN Uncovering the City's Most Irresistible Destination Dishes Story and photos by Andy Hume

60 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

ANDY HUME CONDUCTS AN ONGOING ROAM OF THE CITY FOR DIFFERENT AND DELICIOUS EATS

here are things in this life which go together so perfectly that you wonder what it was like to live in a time before their marriage: gin and tonic, peanut butter and jelly, American politics and drinking games. These two different Korean soups are an unlikely but worthy pairing. Combine the hot, earthy flavor of

yukgejang (spicy beef soup) and the comfortfood chewiness of kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup) and you get something more than the sum of its parts - warming, comforting, somehow just exactly right. Munbaedong Yuk-Kal (문배동 육칼) takes this idea and runs with it, using an appropriate half-half name for the dish. The soup and noodles come to the table in separate bowls for diners to mix

by themselves. The broth is more hearty than fiery, the noodles are soft- almost overcooked, and the whole effect is a particularly soupy bowl of pasta. On their own, the dishes would be unremarkable; together, they work really well.

There’s seldom an empty seat to spare, but luckily there are branches in Yeouido, Gongdeok and near Coex.

Yuk-Kal (육칼, 8,000 won) at Munbaedong Yuk-Kal, Yongsan-gu, Baek-beom-ro 90-gil 50. Tel. 02-713-6204.

Story by Jordan Redmond Photo by Peter Kim

Restaurant Buzz

MODERN AUSSIE, SHAKSHUKA, AND SHRIMP SAMMIES

BILL'S GWANGHWAMUN Jongro-gu, 17, Jongro 3-gil, D-Tower 4F 02-2251-8404-5

HEAD-LOCK Yongsan-gu, 305-4 Itaewon-dong

CASABLANCA SANDWICHERIE Yongsan-gu, Yongsan-dong 44-7 070-8623-8196

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Bill's, likely the only spot for modern Aussie cuisine in Seoul, has opened another branch at Gwanghwamun. Breakfast is not something Seoul is known for, but Bill's offers up some irresistible sandwiches as well as its famous honeycomb butter ricotta hotcakes with banana. Late-risers fear not: Bill's continues on throughout the day with its breakfast greatest hits and more thanks to one of Seoul's most thoughtful-yet-affordable menus.

Beef shin mole, anyone?

There can never be enough quality sandwiches. Those jonesing for an excellent rendition of bread sliced horizontally and filled with an edible substance should check out Head-Lock in the old Hassdog location in Gyunglidan. These are hefty bites and at 4,000 won, be careful not to bite off the hand that feeds you. Go for the shrimp with beef chili or the original shrimp and mayo.

Speaking of sandwiches, everyone knows Casablanca has some of the best around. But did you know they just added a new shakshuka menu? That's right. The zesty poached egg dish of Berber origin is now on offer in several different varieties and doled out in a tagine. Enjoy it in their sexy new interior.

Omija Mule ADDING NATURAL KOREAN FLAIR TO THE TRADITIONAL MOSCOW MULE Recipe and photo by Bobby Kim

2 o z .5 o . Tito ’s z. P om Vo dk Hon a egr gch a Vin o (Ko nate rea aig .25 n re 2.5 o oz. z. Lim tte) Om e J i uic Lar ja So da e k S 1 o (On o z d . G Lim A ing as) eW e r hee l (G Beer arn ish)

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 61

Moscow Mules are gaining a lot of popularity these days so why not try a riff on one called the Omija Mule. Inspired by the popular Korean fruit herb, the Omija Mule is as refreshing as it sounds. Traditionally used to make tea, Omjia delivers a great combination of bitter, sweet and sour flavors perfect for a quenching of thirst. Omija Soda from On A Lark Sodas paired with house-made ginger beer gives it the right amount of bubbles for a refreshing cocktail.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

T R A V E L

WANGSIMNI IS A PLACE WHOSE IDENTITY AND FUTURE ARE AT ODDS.

A WALK IN WANGSIMNI THE EVOLUTION OF A NEIGHBORHOOD

62 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Story by and Photos by Tom Godfrey

orea is in a constant state of change. This can be both a point of pride and frustration. Facets of Korean life that are inefficient are often bulldozed and replaced with something thought to work better. The results can be hit or miss. Wangsimni, just north of the Han River, is no different In 2002, the Seoul City Government initiated the New Town Project. Aimed at reducing the gap between newer Gangnam and older Gangbuk, 337,200 square meters of Wangsimni was leveled. Now called New Town District 3, the area is block after block of uniform high rises and matching rectangular buildings.

Like other neighborhoods, Wangsimni has undergone a world of change since it came into existence. What was once simple pastureland

became an artery of industry during Japanese colonialization and later lived in the shadows of the ill-fated elevated expressway over Cheongyecheon.

Today, Wangsimni is a place whose identity and future are at odds.

Let’s take a walk.

For most people, their knowledge of Wangsimni ends at the convenient transfer station beneath a large Enter-6 shopping complex that looks like a giant zamboni. Wangsimni is actually a much larger, informal area covering a large swatch of Seongdong-gu, where the original village once was. The neighborhood around Sangwangsimni Station, particularly Exit 4, is

old. Uneven roads meander next to mismatch villa-style houses and cement block businesses.

Often, the roads are more like narrow corridors, lined on either side with dozens of closet-like food stalls and stores, their goods often spilling out onto the road in front of them. Stores selling houseware and cheap goods, from kimchi pots to pencils, dot the neighborhood. Outside, in the shade of a rainbow-colored canopy that lets the sun peek through rips in the fabric, handheld AM/FM radios are for sale. These radios, given that they are for sale all through the neighborhood, provide the soundtrack of old Wangsimni - a tinny Korean trot with a nice layer of static.

Transport:

Sangwangsimni Station (Line 2, Exit 4) will take you to the edge of the old neighborhood. Take any right and you can explore.

Wangsimni Station (Line 2, Line 5, the Jungang line or Bundang line, Exit 6) will take you to Hanyang University Food and Culture Street.

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 63

and the rest of the world. As a result, it is home to a few blocks of realtors who specialize in studio apartments, cheap restaurants, hofs, and cafés that come and go at an alarming rate.

Until August 2015, Ssamji Park, a small square outside Exit 6 was nothing but a meeting place

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

OFTEN, THE ROADS ARE MORE LIKE NARROW CORRIDORS, LINED ON EITHER SIDE WITH DOZENS OF CLOSET-LIKE FOOD STALLS AND STORES, THEIR GOODS OFTEN SPILLING OUT ONTO THE ROAD IN FRONT OF THEM.

and dumping ground for cigarette butts, empty beer cans, and vomit from the night before.

After the Seongdong-gu government designated the area as “Hanyang University Food Culture Street,” an attempt was made to clean up the area. It has been partially successful. Today, “No Smoking” banners hang from poles above the square. While people often ignore the banner, the area is better maintained and sometimes the stage for evening concerts.

Restaurants in the area have also improved appearances, having added English menus to 40 restaurants who were sponsored by the government to do so. Signage has also tried to capitalize on both the increasing number of people coming to the area to eat and the growing international student population at Hanyang University. As a result, some businesses have thrived but many others have collapsed. Older restaurants, usually single-dish mom and pop operations, have been folding rapidly since last summer. Modernity in this part of Wangsimni looks cleaner, but it has also resulted in a huge number of gimmicky samgyeopsal restaurants, juice bars, and cafés, seemingly all owned by celebrity chef Jong Won Paik.

Seemingly, while parts of Wangsimni are struggling with modernization, others have lost entirely.

Wangsimni continues to be a place that is representative of the past and present of Korea.

It’s future, though, is quite up in the air.

T R A V E L

The people walking around the neighborhood here are mostly elderly. The only evidence that there are children is a make-shift arcade outside a trinket store: an old TV in a box hooked up to a Nintendo Gamecube. On warmer summer nights, kids will sit down on the street next to the drying chili peppers and play until after sunset.

There is a rumble of an engine with no exhaust.

An old man drives down the main road on an improvised tractor. On the back are stacks of tied-up cardboard and bags of crumpled up plastic bottles. Next to the recyclables is a bowl of Jeju oranges and a handwritten sign that names a price. The driver looks straight ahead with his hands comfortably on his lap and the wagon seems to be operated by a few levers that he controls with his feet.

The wagon leaves stains of sooty exhaust fumes that dissipate and are quickly covered up by the pleasing smells of Wangsimni. There are two stalls selling fresh mandu. The ajumma sit in the shade behind the steamer as the white clouds drift into the street and disappear into the sky. A bit further down the road there is the sweet smell of jokbal (seasoned pig’s trotters), a local favorite that can be bought at seemingly every other restaurant. Vendors are everywhere.

Next to a butcher is an ancient woman eating rice, manning a table that is wedged into a large alcove cut into an old brick building. Bowls of

kimchi, quail eggs, seaweed and a dozen other dishes sit under plastic covers - a haphazard effort to keep out the bugs. Next to her is an ajumma sitting cross-legged on the ground.

She pays no attention as I walk by. From the aluminum arm of her canopy hangs a number of long fish: brown and dried in the sun. Their bellies are split open and held that way with a tooth pick. They look like a macabre Christmas decoration. This part of Wangsimni is set in its ways. In the three years I have lived in this area, it has hardly changed.

If you were to take the subway to Wangsimni Station, you would get another experience entirely. The neighborhood outside Exit 6 is a kind of battleground that pops up on the outskirts of every college on the planet. It is the buffer between the undergrads of Hanyang University

TAKING INITIATIVE THE N PALESE WAY Ten Days Trekking In Annapurna

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

T R A V E L

Story by: Christine Pickering Photos by: Christine Pickering and Jacole Douglas

Anish, on the trail towards Mt. Annapurna

64 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Annapurna Base Camp Tika, Anish and I, reaching

almost 4,000 meters above sea level and the breeze is picking up. The grass, dry and yellow from the cold November air, bends with the relentless wind.

Anish Lama, my guide-in-training, and Tika Pun, my lead guide, are ahead, waiting as I plod up a wide trail of hard-packed dirt.

I can’t breathe. I feel my asthma kicking in but am determined not to rely on my inhaler.

I take five feeble steps and stop, sucking in deep breaths of oxygen. The air is thin, barely enough to keep me moving at a slow walk on a slightly inclined path. I need a few minutes.

Anish checks his phone; Tika watches me, making sure I’m still alive. They’re sitting on a

DESPITE THIS GRISLY FACT, IT IS STILL A GOAL FOR THE TEENAGE GUIDE-IN-TRAINING, AND ONE HE HOPES TO ACCOMPLISH WITHIN A DECADE. rock, waiting for me to reach them.

I’m ready to go. I steal another lungful of air and move forward.

*** For ten days in November, I trekked up to the famed Annapurna Base Camp and back down.

Located in the Himalayas, Annapurna is one of the fourteen “eight-thousanders”, mountains whose peaks are over eight thousand meters (26,247 ft) above sea level and whose summit lies in the “death zone” - the point at which the oxygen available is not sufficient to sustain human life. The base camp lies at 4,130 meters: a much more plausible feat for someone with virtually no mountaineering experience and an irregular commitment to exercise.

Trekking in Nepal had been a goal of mine for over five years. Attracted by photos of stark white peaks, dramatic forests, and snow-

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 65

trips in the Himalayas. And accompanying us was Anish, a teenage trainee with IO. In an e-mail, Chandra shared with me that IO’s mission is to “inspire self-discovery and personal development in people of all ages and backgrounds through adventure and challenge in the outdoors.” After several years of living abroad and completing various outdoor adventure programs, Chandra returned home and founded the organization in 2003 to provide skills-training to the younger generation and help develop Nepal’s outdoor industry.

Roughly six hundred youths – including orphaned youths, former child laborers, human trafficking victims, and refugees – have

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

covered trails, Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) lay high on my Asian adventures bucket list.

But as a young female traveller with an incredible penchant for getting lost, the idea of trekking alone filled me with trepidation, as images of falling off a cliff, body never to be found, or of passing out mid-trek from a lack of oxygen, flashed before me.

A friend of mine recommended hiring a guide for the trip. She put me in touch with Chandra Ale, the founder and director of Initiative Outdoor (IO), a leadership school that provides training for outdoor adventure guides in Nepal. Chandra placed me with Tika, one of a handful of female trekking guides, with almost a decade of experience leading

T R A V E L

Memorial to a fallen mountain climber in Ghorepani village

taken part in IO’s programs. These include trainings in rock climbing, white water rafting, first aid and basic rescue, and environmental education. Many graduates of IO’s programs are now living and working abroad, although some assist Chandra by training new recruits, while others have found positions as guides in Nepal.

Chelsilyn Ball, IO’s course coordinator, noted that not all have been open to IO’s approach to education.

“It has been a challenge to shift the mindset of Nepali schools. Nepal holds a very traditional idea of education, [so] it is often difficult to win the support for outdoor education programming.”

Anish was one of IO’s youth participants who found his vocation – leading outdoor adventure trips – at a young age. Born in Kathmandu, Anish grew up in an orphanage home from age three onwards. Thinking back to his first memories of formal education, Anish recalls that schools were “not that practical. They used to do all theory… and I never understand that way.”

When he was ten years old, Anish remembers looking out his window and seeing the mountains in the distance. “One day I’ll be there,” he thought. “I’ll get [to the mountains].” *** I’m wearing two pairs of leggings, two pairs of socks, five layers on top – including a fleece and a windproof shell – and I’m still freezing.

On the wall behind me, there’s a sign noting that it will cost one dollar to have a heater brought in. I ask the woman running the mountain lodge we’re bunking in for the night if I can purchase a heater. She shakes her head at me sadly and tells me there is no extra fuel right now.

A fuel shortage has rocked Nepal since it adopted its new constitution in late September 2015. The new constitution contains citizenship measures that an ethnic minority community, the Madhesi, find discriminatory.

It also enshrines secularism, which has angered the conservative Hindu population of Nepal. As a result, there has been a blockade at the main border to India, a country with a Hindu majority and close ties to the Madhesi.

As India provides almost all of Nepal’s fuel, the blockade has effectively crippled the country.

Fuel is now double or triple the price it used to be and the black market operates openly during the day, as there are few other places to purchase fuel.

The lodges and guesthouses located on the highly trafficked route to ABC have also felt the effects of the fuel crisis. Which is why, on a cold November night with temperatures below 0 degrees, there is no fuel for purchase.

Anish comes over to me with a cup of hot

vendor, for sale along the trail Bracelets hand-crafted by a Tibetan

66 www.groovekorea.com April 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

T R A V E L

Descent from Poon Hill, Ghorepani, shortly after sunrise

Anish and Tika taking a break, near Landruk village Phewa Lake in Pokhara city at dusk

masala chai (spicy Nepali tea), my favourit e drink after a long day of trekking.

“Are you cold?” He looks at me, eyes warm with sympathy.

“Yes,” I tell him, shivering. “There’s no fuel for the heater.”

He comes back a minute later with his down jacket.

“Here, put this on.”

“But then you’ll be cold.”

“No,” he says proudly. “I am Nepali.”

Anish tells me later that the greatest challenge to being a trekking guide is taking care of his clients. Both experienced and inexperienced trekkers may suffer from altitude sickness, dehydration, and a litany of other illnesses.

CHANDRA RETURNED HOME AND FOUNDED THE ORGANIZATION IN 2003 TO PROVIDE SKILLSTRAINING TO THE YOUNGER GENERATION AND HELP DEVELOP NEPAL’S OUTDOOR INDUSTRY. “Being a guide, it’s a job. You have to look after… all the guests: what they’re doing or

eating… they’re drinking enough water or not, all that.”

While his training has prepared him for most eventualities, it is a different experience performing in a real-life situation where another person’s life is on the line.

“If anything happens, we have to treat before the doctors can. If not… a guest might lose their life.” *** I can see one of the ABC mountain lodges now, less than 500 meters away. It’s been in view for the last hour, but with the thin air unable to satisfy my oxygen needs, and with five days of trekking behind me, I’m making slow progress. Anish plows ahead of me, checking back occasionally to see if I’m still

Spinning prayer wheels at Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple), Kathmandu

Fall colors on the trail, near Sinuwa village

T R A V E L

Chandra Ale, rock climbing in Pokhara, April 2009

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Prayer flags, rustling in the wind at the base of Mt. Annapurna

Chandra teaches a belaying course Forest Reserve, Novem, Nagarjun ber 2009

Sunset on the mountain, Tadapani village

volatile mountain range systems in the world, Anish cannot think of anything else he would rather be doing. One of his goals is to start his own trekking company, sharing what he has learned from IO with disadvantaged youth who have few opportunities or job prospects. And he wants to eventually climb Everest.

I remind him of the extremely high death toll and risk. Of the 4,000-plus people who have successfully summited Everest, the bodies of well over 200 climbers and guides, many of them Nepali, are scattered across the mountain.

Despite this grisly fact, it is still a goal for the teenage guide-in-training, and one he hopes to accomplish within a decade.

I don’t know if Anish will ever get to the summit of Everest. Nor, considering the high morbidity rate, do I know if I even want him to. However, Anish’s transformation – from a young boy bored and frustrated with education to a young man who dreams of running his own business and summiting the highest mountain in the world – demonstrates the determination of Nepali youth in the face of tragedy and seemingly insurmountable challenges.

For more information on Initiative Outdoor: Website: www.initiativeoutdoor.com/ Facebook:www.facebook.com/ InitiativeOutdoorNepal/ E-Mail: Chandra Ale info@initiativeoutdoor.com.

April 2016 www.groovekorea.com 67

breathing. Tika walks behind me, stopping when I do and forcing me to drink water.

Finally, we reach the sign: “Namaste – Annapurna Base Camp heartly welcome to all external and internal trekkers”. I lean on the signpost, gasping. Tika and Anish are laughing, most likely out of elation for not having had to carry me up the rest of the way.

We do a three-way hug, our arms wrapped around each other’s necks as we breathe in the crisp mountain air. After six days of trekking through some of the most stunning yet difficult terrain I have ever been on, Tika, Anish and I make it to ABC. *** While understanding the dangers posed to him as a trekking guide in one of the most

LISTINGS

Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul

Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries.

6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500

French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180

Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS

FAMILY & KIDS

Jin Air 1600-6200

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

D ETUR

PO NS MU

NDO

Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age.

A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com AMUSEMENT PARKS Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book?

(02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr

UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

ANIMAL HOSPITALS Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

HAIR & JOY Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”

Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean.

National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture.

Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals.

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do

Trained at TONI & GUY and VIDAL SASSOON Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243

HAIR&JOY

Mapo-gu Dong gyo-dong 168-3_ 3F Seven Uniqlo Springs

www.hairandjoy.com Gangnam groove ads.pdf 1 Apgujeong Branch

QUNOHAIR

19/01/2016 17:14:37 Phone 02.549.0335

Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

www.qunohair.com

10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

DRAMA

ART MUSIC

Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays.

SERVICE

Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul C The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art.

M 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and ChuseokY holidays.

SPORT

COMMUNITY

CM

Plateau MY (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul CY 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays.

ACADEMIC

CMY

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

K

HonhIk Univ. Stn. Line2 Exit8

FRIENDSHIP

Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

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70 www.groovekorea.com April 2016