sdr hdrth dr 46 // MAGZUS.CLUB // by Derek Kolush

MAYJUNE 2021 150

T A A P S E E P A N N U

IN IT TO WIN IT

M AY-JUNE/2021

110

IN IT TO WIN IT Vocal, fearless and a force to reckon with, Taapsee Pannu has a spate of upcoming releases as she continues being the poster girl for what it means to be the most authentic version of yourself. By Aditi Bhimjyani Photographed by Bikramjit Bose Styled by Priyanka Kapadia

OUR MAN AT FENDI Kim Jones is bringing a deeply personal British sensibility to Fendi. He talks to Olivia Singer about drawing inspiration from the ‘Bloomsbury Group’, while Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott photograph Kate Moss wearing his debut couture collection

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MAN ON THE MOVE As he begins his third decade in fashion, Manish Malhotra is embracing technology, reimagining luxury, and finally learning about work-life balance, all during a pandemic. By Gayatri Rangachari Shah

A YEAR IN STYLE As red carpets were rolled up and celebrations went online, these women maintained their life and style logs on social media while staying close to home, giving us a glimpse into their wardrobes and their values

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ZINNIA KUMAR The model and activist draws from her experiences and uses her mixed-media advocacy to advocate for equal opportunities as she seeks to push forward a new awakening. Photographed by Lena C. Emery Styled by Morgan Pilcher

A TOUCH OF SUMMER Indian collections come out to play as the mercury rises and tactility becomes the emotion we long for. Go forth and revel in the elemental approach to summer staples. Photographed by Farhan Hussain Styled by Ria Kamat

BIKRAMJIT BOSE

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

M AY-J UN E /2 0 2 1

154

HERB MENTALITY

LOVES

17 Everything we heart this month

SHOPS

23 Sensible heels, slinky black dresses, sporty jackets, sheer layers and midriffgrazing tops—this is a closet for keeps. Plus, straw espadrilles and totes that will teleport you to the beach, at-home essentials in 8

mulmul to live out the summer, and casual khakis with a new-age update. Your baubles too have summer on their mind—think mango yellow, palmleaf green and rani pink, while watches adopt an angular approach

STYLE

45 Poetry and fashion Poets are the new fashion icons, and their coats and couplets are

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

loaded with messages, finds Akanksha Kamath

three spring/summer 2021 trends

48 AM to PM For Priyanka and Ankur Modi, the husband and wife behind label AMPM, work and home often collide, but never as much as they did this past year. We asked them to share their AM-to-PM routine. By Priyanka Khanna

54 Back to the future Malika Dalamal looks at how a decade full of extreme contrasts is the perfect inspiration for our current world in flux

50 Sign of the times Three writers reflect on

58 Pretty woman Romcom queen Julia Roberts lends her signature smile to Chopard’s latest watch campaign. By Rishna Shah

60 If the shoe fits… Then it’s yours forever, says Pierre Hardy, creative director of Hermès shoes. The veteran designer discusses how shoes are our imminent clue to the next step in fashion. By Akanksha Kamath

BEAUTY

68 A new beginning Life in 2021 has been a journey in self-healing and soul-searching. Three people tell

MONICA LO

14 Editor’s letter 15 Contributors

COVER LOOK

‘Nooraniyat’ sequin slip dress, Manish Malhotra. Earrings, semi-precious stone set in 18K gold ring; both Tara Fine Jewellery. Eternity band, Diosa. Rings, Joolry. Hair and makeup: Mitesh Rajani/Feat. Artists. Bookings editor: Prachiti Parakh. Photographed by Bikramjit Bose. Styled by Priyanka Kapadia

us how they found themselves through different forms of solitude. By Aditi Bhimjyani 72 Healing touch Can tap-dancing with your fingers on certain points of your body help relieve stress, physical pain and tension? Sheree Gomes Gupta finds out 73 Inside out A pale pink drink to boost collagen, pills packed with peptides and probiotics, chewy candies with retinol and vitamin E—we’ll take one of each 74 Golden girl When it comes to her career, Sharvari is no stranger to the hustle—and her beauty and wellness routine is just as industrious. By Avanti Dalal 76 Face time We’re always waging war on acne, neutralising free radicals and

annihilating fine lines, but Dr Barbara Sturm makes it clear that soothing, cooling and refreshing ingredients can be just as effective. By Avanti Dalal 77 Cutting edge Brands are changing how we live, sleep, work and play, so you can literally have your health in your hands 78 Who wants to live forever? When Freddie Mercury belted out this famous line, little did he imagine that an entire generation would stand up to be counted. A far cry from the boons of sages or spells from fairy godmothers, eternal life may just be in your hands. By Shabana Patker-Vahi 82 Take it slow Indulging in a multiplestep skincare routine, lighting a candle or spending time on a face massage can be an exercise in mindfulness.

Here’s what to decompress with now 84 Sweet escape At this spa in the heart of Goa, your muscles and mind will both find relief. By Sneha Mankani

CULTURE

134 The writing on the screen From Bridgerton to Never Have I Ever, the on-screen narrative has changed. Meet the women of South Asian origin who are rewriting Hollywood, one script and one show at a time 140 Words collide A powerful new novel begins a fresh chapter in novelist Jhumpa Lahiri’s now bilingual career, says Olivia Marks 142 Paint by numbers Illustrators today are using social media to not just rack up the likes, shares and followers, but to introduce new audiences to art and

take its engagement to viral proportions, finds Radhika Iyengar 144 Battle ready Breast cancer survivor Shormistha Mukherjee shares how she reclaimed her sense of self by accepting the rage, pain and fear while powering through with a generous dose of sass and laughter

LIVING

146 The home that love built Using soothing colours to enliven an ancestral home, interior designer and mother-of-two Farah Ahmed Mathias creates a private oasis that marries creativity with necessity. By Rajashree Balaram 150 Feel at home Effortlessly blending modern design with traditional craft, this new trio of villas in Goa celebrates thoughtful homes that speak of the past, finds Esha Mahajan 154 Herb mentality

Ancient wisdom has always been a repository of healing edibles. Harvesting secrets from the East to the West, Sonal Ved breaks down the therapeutic power of food through four seemingly different schools of thought 157 Comedy of errors With his new book, cartoonist and columnist Rohan Chakravarty looks at the severity of the climate crisis through a comedic lens, writes Megha Mahindru 158 Diary 160 Shoplist

TRIBUTE

162 In April, the world lost Alber Elbaz, one of its brightest yet most down-to-earth design stars. Priya Tanna recounts a Parisian morning she spent with the designer who transformed the 120-year-old legacy brand Lanvin www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 9

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DIGITAL REACH

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TARUN VISHWA

When we began working on this issue, we had no idea that by the time it reaches you we’d have retreated into another lockdown. With daily news confronting us with unforeseen tragedies and common people taking on many acts of bravery, this roller-coaster year has veered us from despair, to hope and back to helplessness all over again. Everyone is hurting. And when you read this, we may still be unsure of how long it will last. Somehow, the second wave seems to be harder, tougher and darker. So if even one story on these pages can offer you a brief and gentle escape from the grim reality, then we have served our purpose. Among our mood-boosting dispatches this issue is a feature on the celebrated dresser Manish Malhotra, who completes three decades in the fashion industry. In culture, we spotlight a groundswell of South Asian creatives who are changing the narrative in Hollywood. In ‘A new beginning’, three individuals share their wellness journeys through three distinct forms of solitude. The current time has brought with it profound changes in our mental make-up, and ‘Healing touch’ makes the case for healing through emotion-focused therapy. Then there is our cover girl, the feisty Taapsee Pannu, who has always spoken her mind. Today, even with her hands full (she has three much-anticipated sports movies lined up), she is using her platform, which reaches over 4.6 million people solely on Twitter itself, to rally citizens to help. As you read this, my team and I will have just launched a new digital campaign, ‘Come Together’, which applauds ordinary people with extraordinary abilities, both young and old, who are showing us the silver lining, with a ravaging pandemic playing out in the background. In India, it may seem like the darkest time, but it has also made us witness the way help is pouring in from all frontiers. United, we will overcome even this biggest of tragedies. It stood us in good stead earlier and I know it won’t fail us now. As the on-going vaccination drive likely brings us some solace, I hope that you remain safe and healthy. I urge you to find ways to push, fight and not give up. And remember, we are in this together.

FOLLOW ME ON TWITTER @PRIYATANNA AND INSTAGRAM @PRIYA_TANNA OR EMAIL ME AT LETTERS@VOGUE.IN

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

BIKRAMJIT BOSE.

EDITOR’S LETTER

BEIJING

ISTAN BU L

KUALA LUMPUR

MOSCOW

PORTO

R I YA D H

FOLLOW ME ON TWITTER @PRIYATANNA AND INSTAGRAM @PRIYA_TANNA OR EMAIL ME AT LETTERS@VOGUE.IN

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

BIKRAMJIT BOSE.

EDITOR’S LETTER

CONTRIBUTORS

SA M H E N D E L

Get to know... Our contributors from this issue

Hussain is a fashion and advertising photographer from Assam. His projects have been featured at exhibitions such as Photoville in New York and Photomonth - East London Photo Festival, Photographique in Bristol, and at Constrato Galleria in Milan. In ‘A touch of summer’, he photographs model Elizabeth Mech in summer-ready colours. Page 124

A D I T I B H I M J YA N I

A Vogue India contributing editor, Mumbaibased Bhimjyani is spending most of her time in lockdown reading, writing, and editing (and says that it’s probably going to stay that way). She writes on a range of topics, including beauty and wellness, people and pop culture. In ‘In it to win it’, Bhimjyani interviews our cover star Taapsee Pannu. Page 88

BIKRAMJIT BOSE.

The Australian photographer, now based in London, is currently working on a series of portraits he shot at the city’s Black Lives Matter protests. In ‘A new mood’, Hendel collaborated with artist Magnus Reid to recreate a painter’s studio in which to shoot model Aishwarya Gupta. Page 23

FA R H A N H U S SA I N

M I T E S H RA JA N I

G AYAT R I RA N G AC H A R I S H A H

A Mumbai-based journalist, columnist, author and podcast host, Rangachari Shah is also a contributing editor at Vogue India. She is the co-author of Changemakers: 20 Women Transforming Bollywood Behind The Scenes. In ‘Man on the move’, she speaks to couturier Manish Malhotra about his 30 years in fashion and what’s next. Page 100

Rajani is focusing his work on clean products and brands while dabbling in wellness and self-care as a makeup artist and hairstylist. He has worked in the industry for nine years—on magazine covers, for runway shows and with brands like Sabyasachi, Satya Paul, Bodice and Péro. In ‘In it to win it’ Rajani took a minimalistic approach towards the hair and makeup for actor Taapsee Pannu. Page 88 www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 15

BEIJING

ISTAN BU L

KUALA LUMPUR

MOSCOW

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R I YA D H

LOV WHAT W

Printed fabric bag with removable leather clutch Chanel, price on request

Brighter days Call us optimists, but isn’t a ’90s-inspired tote in electric hues just the carry-on we need as we strut into a more promising future? www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 17

LOVES

NEW

LABELS

STAND STUDIO

GETTY IMAGES; INDIGITAL MEDIA

This modern-contemporary (and affordable) label brings together minimal Scandi-cool with a feminine French touch. Expect classic silhouettes and expertly designed accessories in leather, suede and wool. Standstudio.com

ETISHA COLLECTIVE

It was on a visit to Turkey that Etisha Pipada came across an artisans’ collective and decided to use their weaving skills, dating back to the 17th century, to create a line of heritage towels. Etishacollective.com

B OO K

C L UB

Something for everyone

Sunshine Girl: An Unexpected Life by Julianna Margulies 18

TRAVEL: An Irreverent Guide by Anthony Bourdain and Laurie Woolever (Ecco) The late celebrity chef’s final book captures his lifelong journey with food and travel.

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

SP LI CE AND DI CE

Kareena Kapoor Khan

Little Book Of Yves Saint Laurent by Emma Baxter-Wright (Rizzoli) A pocket-sized book with 60 years of the designer packed in its pages. Peter Lindbergh. Azzedine Alaïa (Taschen) A black-andwhite book of the couturier’s work, captured by the legendary photographer.

Dua Lipa

Slashes, slits and cut-outs have found themselves carved into just about every piece of clothing we want this summer. That unexpected sliver of skin gets a more-than-justsex-appeal update from these celebrities

Bella Hadid

Zendaya

CHRISTOPHER ESBER

CELEBRITY: Billie Eilish by Billie Eilish (Grand Central) A photo book that offers an intimate look inside music’s girl-of-the-moment.

FOOD: Parsi Kitchen by Anahita Dhondy (HarperCollins India) The former chef of SodaBottle OpenerWala celebrates her Parsi heritage through family and food.

FASHION: Coco Chanel: Revolutionary Woman by Chiara Pasqualetti Johnson (White Star) Coco Chanel lives on, fifty years after her death.

CHLOÉ

Are You Enjoying? By Mira Sethi (Knopf) Stories on love and longing from the high-powered world of television.

(Ballantine) The star of The Good Wife writes a powerful memoir about finding her calm in chaos.

CHANEL

FICTION: Second Place by Rachel Cusk (Farrar, Straus and Giroux) A woman invites a famous artist to use her guest house in a remote coastal town, and drama ensues.

TREND

3 2

DAY

1. Brushed leather slingback pumps, Prada, 67,410 2. ‘Constance’ leather sandals, The Row, 63,240 3. Sandals, By Far, price on request 4. ’Sol’ sandals, Cult Gaia, 27,000

HOW LOW CAN YOU GO?

5. ‘Levita’ 55 studded leopard print suede pumps, Christian Louboutin, price on request 6. Flower-brooch point-toe leather pumps, Loewe, 88,610 7. Embellished grosgrain and leather slingback pumps, Miu Miu, 67,050 8. ’Bing’ 65mm glitter mules, Jimmy Choo, 88,520

We’re levelling up from AM to PM

NIGHT

8 6

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 33

LOVES CUL TURE CAL END AR

Zendaya in Valentino

All that’s on this month

View: Alice: Curiouser And Curiouser is on at the V&A in London. The

1. ‘Juliette’ glass, Glass Forest at Thehouseofthings.com, 2,000 2. ‘Masai Gold’ salad set, Ellementry, 2,750 3. ‘Butterfly Bloom’ sandwich tray, 9,445, teapot, 13,745, cake stand, 19,745; all Wedgwood at Mérci, Dehradun 4. ‘Kama’ stoneware collection, Ikai Asai, 650 onwards

exhibition highlights include original drawings by Ralph Steadman and modern-day interpretations by Tim Walker. View online at Vam.ac.uk Binge: Jupiter’s Legacy starring Josh Duhamel and Leslie Bibb is a new superhero TV series. Streaming on Netflix

OVERSIZED SHIRT

Supersize me Big shirts have a big role to play ‘Melody’ oversized shirt, The Frankie Shop, 8,524

VER Y VOG U E The three trends we have our eye on

TABLE MAT TERS Elevate at-home dinners with these new must-haves

Hailey Bieber in Prada

Hemline theory All the world’s nostalgic for the itsy, bitsy miniskirt

Miniskirt, Versace, 1,47,500

Brittany Xavier in String Ting

BEADED PHONE STRAP

Phone a friend Your mobile gets a new playmate—the beaded and charmed strap

Personlaised phone strap, Dana Levy, 5,500

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

MINIS

COURTESY VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSUEM, LONDON

Watch: Cruella, starring Emma Stone, Emma Thompson and Dev Patel, follows the evil exploits of our favourite Disney villain, Cruella de Vil, from 101 Dalmatians. Streaming on Disney+ Hotstar

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STYLE TIP

ld Chunky go levates jewellery e iring pa the classic d of beige an white

SCHIAPARELLI

rowing shade INDIGITAL MEDIA

Khakis, those sand-toned, wrinkle-free chinos reserved for casual Fridays at work, get a new-age update

9 6

STYLE TIP

street For added graphic cred, add a arian ilit tee and ut s o access rie

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

LOUIS VUITTON

INDIAN EDITION

THE LAST WORD IN TRAVEL FEB-MAR-APR 2021 | 200

DESTINATION WEDDING GUIDE 2021 WITH THIS ISSUE

THE FOOD ISSUE

+ FEATURING +

Nigella Lawson Massimo Bottura Yotam Ottolenghi Mira Kapoor Hussain Shahzad Harsh Goenka Alice Waters Gary Mehigan

+ DESTINATION WEDDING GUIDE +

THE NEW INDIAN WEDDING

A vegetarian’s guide to Goa, Dubai, Colombo and more KARAN MAHAL, SRINAGAR

OZEN RESERVE BOLIFUSHI, MALDIVES

INTIMATE, MODERN, PERSONAL

featuring Masaba Gupta in Sabyasachi at RAAS Devigarh

THE LEELA PALACE JAIPUR

INDIAN EDITION

THE LAST WORD N TRAVEL FEB MAR APR 2021 200

DEST NATION WEDDING GUIDE 2021 W TH THIS ISSUE

THE FOOD ISSUE

+ FEATURING +

Nigella Lawson Mass mo Bottura Yotam Ottolenghi Mira Kapoor Hussain Shahzad Harsh Goenka Alice Waters Gary Mehigan

THE FUTURE IS GREEN A vegetarian’s guide to Goa Dubai Colombo and more

NEW HOTELS KARAN MAHAL SRINAGAR

OZEN RESERVE BOLIFUSHI, MALDIVES

THE LEELA PALACE JAIPUR

THE NEW INDIAN WEDDING

EDITED BY PRIYANKA KAPADIA

TR EN D

A new mood Sensible heels, slinky black dresses, sporty jackets, sheer layers and midriff-grazing tops—this is a closet for keeps Photographed by SAM HENDEL Styled by NAHEED DRIVER

Tunic, pants, necklace, bracelets; all Chanel

HERMÈS

KHAITE

BALENCIAGA

GABRIELA HEARST

Triangle cut-out dress, Victoria Beckham. ‘My Lucky Day’ earring, Francesca Villa

INKY NOTES

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

INDIGITAL MEDIA

1. Embellished flat leather slippers, Simone Rocha, 70,354 2. ‘Paseo’ flat sandals, Louis Vuitton, price on request 3. Flatform braided sandals, JW Anderson, 59,680 4. ‘Atelier 03 Rose Edition’ sandals, Valentino Garavani, 79,070 5. ‘Lauren’ buckle flat sandals, Chloé, 62,800

Slides of every shape and size

WEAR WITH

JACQUEMUS

The new summer dress is black, form-fitting and shows slivers of skin

TREND

Braided cut-out dress, Michael Kors. ‘Pina’ sandals, By Far

Pretty woman Romcom queen Julia Roberts lends her signature smile to Chopard’s latest watch campaign. By Rishna Shah 58

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

PHOTOGRAPHER: SHAYNE LAVERDIÈRE; ART DIRECTOR: XAVIER DOLAN; STYLIST: ELIZABETH STEWART. GETTY IMAGES

WATCHES

TREND 2

BARE ESSENTIALS

Pared back basics for a sophisticated charm

HUGO BOSS

INDIGITAL MEDIA

HERMÈS

1. ‘Morrison’ sunglasses, Linda Farrow, 34,000 2. ‘Rendez-vous’ bag, Louis Vuitton, price on request. 3. Belted shirt dress, Bottega Veneta, 2,63,130 4. ‘Rylee’ boxy-fit blazer, Stella McCartney, 87,240 5. Striped silk-blend twill shirt, Vince, 42,610 6. ‘30 Montaigne’ earrings, Dior, 29,710 7. Slip-on calf leather loafers, JW Anderson, 38,700 8. ‘Morissey’ tailored tuxedo trousers, Joseph, 68,150 9. Knee-length shorts, Salvatore Ferragamo, 60,550

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TREND

2 1

OFF THE FIELD Jumpers, sweatshirts and sneaker-heel hybrids go beyond the basketball court 5 4

DIOR

1. Medusa chainlink necklace, Versace, 65,180 2. Rectangular acetate sunglasses, Loewe, 24,500 3. ‘C’ baseball cap in striped cotton blue, Celine, 31,750 4. Multicolour field jacket with crystal embellishment, Miu Miu, 1,92,100 5. Oversized embellished cotton-jersey hoodie, Givenchy, 1,85,960 6. Pleated graphic-print midi skirt, MSGM at www.farfetch.com, 42,820 7. Geometricpattern track jacket, Wales Bonner at www.farfetch.com, 71,140 8. ‘Eiko’ print skirt, Khaite, 82,560 9. Leather lace-up pumps, Manolo Blahnik, 90,140 10. Suede calf-skin and nylon sneakers, Chanel, 68,970 11. ‘Bauletto’ printed leather tote, Prada, 1,80,600

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

INDIGITAL MEDIA

MAISON VALENTINO

Polo neck T-shirt, hoodie, skirt, bag; all Prada. ‘Lila’ earcuff, Ana Khouri. Pumps, Dries Van Noten

NEW SPRING SUMMER BRIDAL COLLECTIONS MASTERCLASSES BY LOCAL AND GLOBAL EXPERTS VIRTUAL CONSULTATIONS EXPERIENCE VOGUE’S CURATION OF ALL THINGS WEDDING

PARTNER

TREND

MIDWAY MARK

Clothing for a bit of ab-flexing 4

8 7 5

VERSACE

ACNE STUDIOS

1. ’Ollie’ bag, Staud, 20,070 2. Wrap-around crop top, Jacquemus, 94,970 3. ‘Le Club’ cropped polka-dotted satin top, Orseund Iris, 26,600 4. Striped wrap-around top, Y/Project at www.farfetch. com, 49,810 5. Asymmetric flared trousers, Aleksandre Akhalkatsishvili at www.farfetch.com, 55,190 6. ‘Moon Lozenge’ waist strap trousers, Marine Serre at www.farfetch.com, 65,790 7. Braided torso dress, Christopher Esber, 57,510 8. Cut-out miniskirt, Dion Lee, 28,460 9. Pleated hoops, Anushka Jain, 3,500 10. ‘Taralita’ leather slingback sandals, Christian Louboutin, 52,070

BALMAIN

INDIGITAL MEDIA

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 31

Shirt, overlay shirt; both Sacai. ‘Lila’ earcuff, Ana Khouri

TRICK OR TREAT The now-you-see-me, now-you-don’t gossamer layers are back

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

Metal hardware jewellery to balance the softness of sheer fabric

INDIGITAL MEDIA

DHRUV KAPOOR

LOVEBIRDS

DIOR

WEAR WITH

ALAMELU

1. Classic sheer jacket, Viktor & Rolf, 32,965 2. Belted sheer midi dress, Fendi, 2,58,340 3. Cape-effect open-back printed silk organza top, Dries Van Noten, 62,523 4. ‘Audrey’ hoops, MNSH, 3,000 5. ’Billie’ ring, Melt, 4,800 6. Necklace, Missoma, price on request

TREND

3 2

DAY

1. Brushed leather slingback pumps, Prada, 67,410 2. ‘Constance’ leather sandals, The Row, 63,240 3. Sandals, By Far, price on request 4. ’Sol’ sandals, Cult Gaia, 27,000

HOW LOW CAN YOU GO?

We’re levelling up from AM to PM

NIGHT

8 6

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 33

Multicolored trench coat, Dries Van Noten. ‘Gommini’ bag, Tod’s. ‘Cildo’ earrings, Ana Khouri x Narciso Rodriguez. Sandals, Gianvito Rossi Hair: Shun/Future Rep Makeup: Phoebe Walters using Charlotte Tilbury Assistant stylist: Valériane Venance Bookings editor: Jay Modi Model: Aishwarya Gupta/Anima Creative Management Special thanks: Magnus Reid

BEAU

WE LLNE SS

A new beginning Life 2.0 in 2021 has been a journey in self-healing and soulsearching. Three individuals tell us how they found themselves through different forms of solitude. By Aditi Bhimjyani

020 was a long year of dealing with change, uncertainty, loss and flux—life had been retailored. As 2021 began, many of us wondered what our minds and bodies would need this year, and a lot of us chose to step out to find that. In a country abundant with healing traditions, it is fortunate we do not to have to look far. Here are three journeys, all pilgrimages of sorts that follow a different trajectory, but which are complementary in their solitude. The three people who undertook them tell us what drew them to each place and how they found their emotional, physical and spiritual healing.

URVASHI KAUR

4 1. Gold and enamel hoop earrings, Tallin Jewels, 66,700 2. ‘Loulou’ bracelet, Dorothee Sausset, 16,800 3. Emerald and enamel pinky ring, Arundhati De-Sheth, 85,600 4. ‘Double Pop Heart Bracelet’, The Line, 38,000 5. ‘Himalayan Cherry’ initial necklace, Agaro Jewels, 3,14,150

Delicate darlings that pack a punch of colourful enamel

WEAR WITH...

ANITA DONGRE

PRABUDDHA DASGUPTA

3 5 4 www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 37

1 3

STYLE TIP

ld Chunky go levates jewellery e iring pa the classic d of beige an white

SCHIAPARELLI

rowing shade INDIGITAL MEDIA

Khakis, those sand-toned, wrinkle-free chinos reserved for casual Fridays at work, get a new-age update

9 6

STYLE TIP

street For added graphic cred, add a arian ilit tee and ut s o access rie

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

LOUIS VUITTON

HIGH-STREET

STYLE TIP

JACQUEMUS

sers Wear trou er with a sliv o of skin n display

15 14 16

STYLE TIP

reen and A pop of g e oaters tak dad-style fl antsuit p your work e to a seasid scenario

HUGO BOSS

1. Blouse, H&M, 3,499 2. Chinos, Tommy Hilfiger, 16,500 3. ‘Bow Link Chain’ necklace, Myrha by Rhea Bothra, 950 4. Satchel, Kate Spade, 23,700 5. Sandals, Venus Steps, 2,199 6. Mules, Charles & Keith, 5,999 7. HUF X Kill Bill Showdown T-shirt, Capsul, 4,500 8. Belt, Muji at www.ajio.com, 2,490 9. Trousers, Mango, 4,590 10. Tote bag, Vero Moda, 3,799 11. Cotton T-shirt, United Colours of Benetton, 1,500 12. Linen cotton jacket, 5,990, khaki trousers, 3,990; both Uniqlo X Ines De La Fressange 13. Sunglasses, Calvin Klein, 13,000 14. Sandals, Levi’s, 4,000 15. Cargo trousers, Scotch & Soda, 10,000 16. Block heel sandals, Luna Blu at Westside, 1,499 17. Cropped wrap blouse, Zara, 2,490 18. ‘Anaar Dana’ earrings, Nicobar, 4,200

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HEALTH

DIGGING DEEP

In a typical EFT session, one lightly taps one’s fingertips several times on the meridian end points located at different parts of the body, starting with the outer edge of the hand, followed by the eyebrow, the bone beneath the eye, the space between the nose and upper lip, the crease of the chin, the area below the collarbone, then below the armpit and finally the crown of the head, repeating all of this on the other side. “Affirmations and reminder phrases are voiced throughout the session,” says Aekta Brahmbhatt, a counsellor, EFT practitioner and the founder of Inner Growth Healing. EFT, according to Brahmbhatt, works best to overcome fears of public speaking, phobias, childhood trauma, body image issues, addictions and anxiety. “It’s important to have clarity of the problem to efficiently zero in on the exact emotion, memory or pain and customise it with a setup affirmation and a reminder phrase for results. One may have to do a few rounds and be persistent until all aspects of the problem have been eliminated,” she says.

MIND OVER MATTER

Extensive case histories that prove its effectiveness on physical and emotional ailments—from asthma to lower back pain and insomnia to panic attacks—have been documented. However, while EFT has been scientifically proven to be an effective self-help therapeutic method, it may not work for everyone. “I believe it is also about their faith in the tapping technique and how diligently they do it,” says Brahmbhatt. And while it does provide rapid relief, it would have to be complemented with other cognitive techniques in chronic cases. “Like with PTSD, where one could be in tremendous shock. Once the event has been accepted and processed, only then could EFT be used,” she says.

Healing touch or most of her adult life, Vandana Jain (name changed to protect privacy), 36, struggled with fear and anxiety stemming from childhood trauma. Last year, her counsellor suggested she try a new approach that had her tapping on distinct pressure points on her body with her fin-

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gertips. “With every round of this sequence, either a new emotion revealed itself or I ended up resolving an existing one. I have finally been able to find some mental peace with this practice,” she says. Jain is referring to the Emotional Freedom Technique (EFT), which combines traditional Eastern medicine practices and

modern Western psychotherapies. Created by Gary Craig in the ’90s, this alternative treatment—essentially acupuncture without the needles—is used by mental health experts to treat emotional distress and physical pain. At the core is the belief that “the cause of all negative emotions is a disruption in the body’s energy system”. ■

YASU + JUNKO/TRUNK ARCHIVE

Can tap-dancing with your fingers on certain points of your body help relieve stress, physical pain and tension? Sheree Gomes Gupta finds out

JEWELLERY

Colour me bright Draw inspiration from the rich palette of the Indian summer— think mango yellow, palmleaf green and rani pink. By Priyanka Parkash Illustration by RICHA KASHELKAR

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1. Green onyx and ruby necklace, Rose 2. Earrings, Hazoorilal by Sandeep Narang 3. Statement ring, Kaj Fine Jewellery 4. Ruby and diamond earrings, Fred Leighton 5. Choker necklace, House of MBj 6. ‘Katharina’ rose ring, Fabergé 7. Diamond and emerald necklace, Hazoorilal Legacy, South Extension 8. Earrings, Raniwala 1881 9. Turquoise, coral, emeralds, diamonds and natural pearls set in 18K gold earrings, Sabyasachi Jewellery for Bergdorf Goodman 10. Coloured stone and diamonds set in 18K gold earrings, Anmol Jewellers 11. Gemfields emeralds ‘Tatu’ ring, Aya 12. Diamond and ruby bracelet, Renu Oberoi Luxury Jewellery

INDIGITAL MEDIA

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

VALENTINO

VERSACE

CINQ À SEPT

ZIMMERMANN

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When Freddie Mercury belted out this famous line, little did he imagine that an entire generation would stand up to be counted. A far cry from the boons of sages or spells from fairy godmothers, eternal life may just be in your hands. Welcome to the world of biohacking. By Shabana Patker-Vahi 78

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FERNANDO GOMEZ/TRUNK ARCHIVE

Who wants to live forever?

iohacking began as an underground movement in the early 2000s but is now practised by millions across the globe. Simply put, it is a DIY, self-health approach to improving the quality and longevity of life. Self-health can be termed as foolhardy or even dangerous without the intervention of a medical expert. However, almost all biohackers find that a lack of answers from traditional medicine to chronic ailments, prompts their foray into the self-health

ST Youth Poet Laureate Amanda Gorman recited her poem ‘The Hill We Climb’ while wearing Prada at the 59th US Presidential Inauguration in January 2021

F O C U S

Poetry and fashion

GETTY IMAGES

Rhyme and rhythm is how they compose their poetry, but it is their style that serves as a stamp. Poets are the new fashion icons, and their coats and couplets are loaded with messages, finds Akanksha Kamath

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n January, Amanda Gorman’s poetry performance on a world stage during the swearingin ceremony of US president Joe Biden captivated audiences across continents and countries as she read ‘The Hill We Climb’. Her words reverberated with people, industries and generations, and her style made fashion news reels around the world. Search engine Lyst reported a 1,328-per-cent increase in searches for yellow coats after the Prada version Gorman wore, and her crown-like headband sold out almost as instantly as her video went viral on Instagram. Shortly after, IMG, talent agency to Gigi and Bella Hadid, snapped up the wordsmith to represent her future brand partnerships. This series of events prompts the question: when did poetry become fashion’s new bedfellow?

STYLISTIC DEVICES

POETIC LICENCE

Rupi Kaur heralded a new era for 21st-century poets who, with their bite-sized couplets, put poetry in unexpected places. Kaur’s line “Our backs tell the story no books have the spine to carry,” was emblazoned on designer Prabal Gurung’s black tailored suit at New York Fashion Week in 2016. Greta Bellamacina, 2014 Youth Poet Laureate nominee’s poem was embroidered on Valentino’s autumn/ winter 2019-20 tulle dresses, coat cuffs, and weightless silks. Her style, eerie and romantic, resonates with her feminine, feminist poetry that she carefully 46

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Clockwise from top: 1. Alok Vaid-Menon applies the no-rules philosophy of poetry to punctuate their personal style 2. Cleo Wade is known as much for her words as for her wardrobe 3. Maya Angelou makes a statement in a black skirt-suit (1975) 4. Amanda Gorman wearing Prada 5. Greta Bellamacina front row at a Simone Rocha show 6. Rupi Kaur gives a performance in Toronto 7. Karuna Ezara Parikh pays tribute to traditional textiles 8. Oscar Wilde (1882) 9. Sophia Thakur during a performance

CALEB B;KUNTZ; UPAHAR BISWAS; GETTY IMAGES

Fashion, as seen in Gorman’s performance, apart from being a conversation starter, can also be used to leave audiences with a lingering flavour of the poem long after it’s over. The reigning sentiment of hope in Gorman’s poem, found a glorious canary yellow colour in her outfit. “The colour announced her to the world. Even before she began to recite at the ceremony, she caught one’s eye like a beautiful bird—wild, free and unbridled,” notes Kolkatabased poet Karuna Ezara Parikh. The ritual of dressing is an emotive (and sometimes focal) point of experience for several performance poets. “One of the first lessons in poetry is that there is no standard grammar, this is your grammar,” explains poet and activist Alok Vaid-Menon. It is this sense of ambivalence and no-rules philosophy that they use to punctuate their personal style. “Fashion then feels like part of a poet’s creative practice.” Sophia Thakur, the author of ‘Somebody Give This Heart A Pen’, has a similar approach to clothing: “Before a show, I rarely consider comfort as much as I do reflecting my message of the night. If I’m talking about love, I might wear a soft outfit that teases the audience’s more romantic emotions. If I’m telling stories of strong women, I’ll wear a power suit.”

FOCUS

composes. “I get told that I have ‘gentle power’ and ‘soft wisdom’. To me, that sounds delicate. Like a flower, or a bomb,” she laughs. Cleo Wade, the OG poet intersecting style, poetry and social messages, has been coined the ‘Millennial Oprah’ for the activism packed in her verses, as much as in her brand partnerships. Think culturally-steeped cornrows gracing jewellery campaigns for Tiffany & Co., empowering self-love notes lining the soles of Nike Air Force 1s. For these poets, all of fashion is to do with feminism. “It’s why so many women writers embrace it, because fashion, like our writing, is a tool for emancipation,” explains Ezara Parikh.

METRE AND METIÉR

“What if style is a mobile poem? Allowing us to carry our poems everywhere with us?” —A LOK VA ID - MEN ON

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Modern-day poets and their Instagram feeds are a feast that alternate between courses of selfies, sonnets and social messages, such as Gorman’s non-profit organisation One Pen One Page and its stories of feminism and race, and Vaid-Menon’s spoken word poetry that flows as freely as the gender constructs they do not believe in. What’s perhaps surprising to see today is some of their works, which address a spectrum of pregnancy, pollution, and period poverty, appear at the heart of fashion campaigns. Many believe this is the inevitable segue for a fashion industry that has recently come under the scanner. At such a time, meanings and metaphors take greater importance. Brands are looking to find the right mouthpiece for their messages, especially as audiences look past celebrities to purpose-driven people as models to exalt. Jason Rembert’s New York-based label Aliétte, the brand that 23-year-old Gorman has vetted with several red-carpet sightings, explains of the new union, “There is so much storytelling that lives within both fashion and poetry. Through both mediums we are able to narrate our modern views, may those be politically or culturally.” His carousel of women wearing Aliétte includes congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, and actors Regina King and Mindy Kaling. “These are women who are dynamic in thought and create change through action and love,” he tells us.

PITCH PERFECT

“What if style is a mobile poem? What if style allows me to carry my poems everywhere with me? And in doing so, makes the world a stage,” considers VaidMenon. Historically, poets and their personal styles have served as a kind of sartorial stamp—Sylvia Plath’s wide skirts, Oscar Wilde’s dandyism, Maya Angelou’s jumpsuits… “The question is no longer about how fashion and poetry can come together. What’s changed now is that we have the means to widely spread the idea of the poet or writer as a fashion icon,” says Ezara Parikh. And in that, they have finally found their poetic justice. ■ www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 47

SPOTLIGHT

Left: Ankur and Priyanka Modi. Right: Rhea Gupte, Ruchi Narain and Ashima Narain, part of their arti-culate series

AM to PM For Priyanka and Ankur Modi, the husband and wife behind label AMPM, work and home often collide, but never as much as they did this past year. As the world went into lockdown, staying at home meant rethinking the foundation of their lifestyle label. We asked them to share their AMto-PM routine. By Priyanka Khanna

he first thing that the pandemic pushed us to do was to take a step back and revisit how we were operating. We went back to our core, rearticulated a lot of things that were in the grey and planned more purposeful steps towards strengthening the pillars of the organisation,” says Priyanka Modi, about their lessons from 2020. It’s been nearly two decades since the launch of AMPM, their answer to a more streamlined approach to Indian fashion and craft. They’ve built a consistent following with urban women looking to outfit their wardrobes with clean silhouettes, prints, breathable and often indigenous fabrics, and a focus on detailing. Dressing a woman on the go means reaching every aspect of her life. So naturally, occa-

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sion wear couldn’t be left behind. AMPM expanded to couture but in keeping with its DNA. As such, voluminous, overwrought lehengas do not find a place on its racks Instead, its festive fashion is one that reflects its minimal design language. “We started a designer luxury prêt line when there was no proof that it would work. And we went forward with the conviction that it would,” she adds. Like with many creatives and entrepreneurs, the duo took a hard look at the essence of their philosophy, collaborating with a branding firm to rebrand and restructure. “We are consciously working on editing our product lines so that we are only making what we really think is imperative. At the same time, we’re working on a new store experience and making a shift in the visual experience of the brand,” says Priyanka.

WAKING HOURS

Ankur Modi: We generally wake up around 6.30 or 7am, with a cup of coffee. We meditate and try to be out of the house by 8.45am in order to make it to the office on time. I guess it’s a simple morning routine with nothing really unusual about it, but that’s the way we like it. Priyanka Modi: My to-do lists start at a macro lev-

PM: Staying creatively fulfilled is essential. Different women are looking for different things. As a brand, my focus lies in evolving with the AMPM consumer, so the process is actually twofold: first, to remain relevant to the requirements of the consumer and then to educate them about new offerings that would be best suited for them. The start point of every collection is a blank canvas. Then you dive deeper into an intense research process, which is always exciting. Another thing that fuels me is when I see the end result—it prompts me to do something a little more revolutionary the next time. So yes, in a way, it’s the start and end point of the design process.

COURTESY ANKIT JAIN; GETTY IMAGES

PM: “In the beginning of the lockdown, it took me some time to structure my day with the kids around, but once I got the system in place it was not very different. Aside from saving time on commuting, not much changed and I found that I was able to get a lot more done by working from home. Some days are earmarked only for designing while others are for administrative tasks. My day can range from making personal or professional goals for the week and goal-planning the team’s direction to creating mood boards for new collections, studying sales reports, interacting with store teams on sales and marketing, buying meetings and even looking into finance once in a while.

AM: After spending so many months working from home, we look forward to getting done with the day and going back. We have two kids, aged 15 and 10, who are both growing up really quickly. When we get home, our kids, especially the younger one, has a huge smile on his face and it’s just what does it. Also the time we end up spending with the kids in the evening, whether it’s lazing around or going for a walk, is really what helps wash the workday off. The one thing that I have stopped doing post-2020 is worry too much about the future. It’s not in our control. PM: We recently did up our home and the one common aesthetic is that it is effortless and functional. It has a sense of ease and is calming. I like to play a sport, and I’m fighting my fears and learning to sing. ■

Below: Images of the couple’s home that reflects their streamlined aesthetic

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MANIC MIDDAYS

DAY’S END

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el, looking at what we have planned for the quarter. From there, I break it up into what needs to be accomplished within the month, which is further crystallised into what needs to be taken care of during the week. It is only at this stage that my daily to-do list actually emerges. Then, when it comes to prioritising the day’s tasks, I bifurcate them into ‘important’ and ‘imperative’ activities and tackle each of these ‘goals’. At the end of the day, I will have a smile on my face if I have managed to check-off about 70 per cent of them.

AM: We’ve always tried to stick to a core, which is simplicity and elegance in design. There have been times when there has been market pressure, but we’ve tried not to give in. We’ve built customer loyalty. People tell us they’ve been buying from us for the past 15 years and it’s difficult for them to clear out their wardrobe.

AM: Our roles in the organisation are very different. We’ve been married for 20 years and we’ve been working together ever since. I oversee finance, administration and production, and we try as best as we can to not interfere in each other’s roles that much. There is obviously some overlap since we are married, but I think the key learning is to give each other some space and have faith that we’re both doing our bit properly. www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 49

Sign of the times

The signet ring

SIGNED, SEALED, DELIVERED Clockwise from top left: Portrait of a man wearing a signet ring; a 10th-century Byzantinian signet ring; a design sketch for a signet ring circa 16th century; Meghan Markle; a modern-day signet ring by Gem Palace

By Archana Thani

bought my first signet ring in 2017. By then, I had been living away from home for three years and I craved connections to my family. That’s when I stumbled upon this piece of jewellery, which feels like the ultimate reinvented heirloom. Traditionally, these chunky rings had flat bezels, to provide a surface area that bears the engraving of a family crest or a personal signature. Historically, they were functional objects, used by the wealthy and powerful to sign and seal documents. However,

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even after losing its intended functionality, the signet ring continued to be a representation of a familial identity or ancestry, a symbol of fraternity or status in society, and a medium of connection to one’s heritage and roots. So what makes it a modern must-have? Jewellery has always been a considered purchase that marks special moments. They are objects that hold sentimental value and, now more than ever, vehicles of expression. Ask anyone about a piece of jewellery they’re wearing and I guarantee you that nine out of ten of them will do two things: they’ll reach out to touch the piece and then go on to tell you the story behind it. Signet rings carry a history and personality of their own. And even though they no longer announce us to others, they are gentle reminders to ourselves of who we are and what’s important to us, even if it is just beauty, exquisite design or craftsmanship. I didn’t have a family crest to engrave on my ring. Instead, I took the advice of my healer and had the centre set with tiger’s eye for its grounding and balancing properties. I felt like a spiritual girl living in a material world and I wanted to make sure I invited some of that mystical energy into my day-to-day. The new popularity of signet rings isn’t surprising—the growing desire for personalisation and customisation, for experiences, for meaning and connection, are driving this trend. As conscious shoppers, we expect more from our purchases and the signet ring provides the perfect canvas. Contemporary designers are rushing to cater to this demand. London-based Castro Smith creates little works of art—think of him as a master tattoo artist. Smith’s craftsmanship and wealth of knowledge on the subject of symbolism allow for the perfect storytelling. Brands like Foundrae and Retrouvaí also appeal to this journey of self-discovery and self-expression, using symbols to represent themes of love, strength, courage, and resilience. Today, my signet ring is my hero piece. Faced with the new normal of working from home, away from family and friends, I find myself wearing it every day. And while I don my earrings and necklaces for video calls, my signet ring is the piece I wear for me.

GETTY IMAGES

Three writers reflect on three spring/summer 2021 trends. Their unanimous verdict? The power of an accessory as a tool of whimsy, memory and elegance can never be underestimated

DETAILS

BAG LADY Clockwise from top left: Princess Diana carrying a black Lady Dior handbag; Audrey Hepburn’s choice of travel bag (1966); Chanel spring/summer 2021; the Hermès Birkin; Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton; the Fendi Peekaboo; Sara Howard, played by Dakota Fanning, in The Alienist

The top-handle bag

By Shalini Shah

hile the title of the popular crime series The Alienist refers to Dr Laszlo Kreizler (Daniel Brühl), the one who emerges the triumphant hero, with the most glorious character arc, is Sara Howard, played by Dakota Fanning. Secretary to the police commissioner in 1890s New York who turns sleuth, Howard is unafraid, defiant, feminist. And, thanks to the show’s costume designers, owns a wardrobe that, while appropriate to New York of the Gilded Age, feels strikingly modern in all its monochrome checks-and-stripes glory. One ominous night, Howard decides to accompany her colleagues on a stakeout to catch a violent killer. As you, heart-in-mouth, watch her moving in the dark, one little detail sticks out: a black leather top-handle bag suspended from her right wrist. It seems a little incongruous at first. For a trip to the powder room? It likely encases a little pistol the size of a cigarette lighter, you deduce later. There’s vanity maybe, but utility too.

Emerging after a rather unusual year, the re-orientation of our fashion choices manifests in the rejection of the utterly frivolous, but also in the steering away from the much-too-practical. (A year in sweats and days spent wandering supermarket aisles pondering Pringles flavours and detergent-packet fonts can do that.) We don’t want a pendant bag, but please don’t throw us another TV-sized tote. So, enter the top-handle bag—ladylike modern, not as hands-free as a cross-body but not as greedy for your attention as a clutch either. Looking back, some of the most iconic pieces of arm candy have been top-handle styles—the Hermès Birkin, Fendi Peekaboo, Louis Vuitton’s Speedy (said to be designed after Audrey Hepburn asked for a smaller version of the Keepall duffle), Dior’s Lady Dior (a favourite of, well, Lady Di) or the hardware-studded Balenciaga Motorcycle. Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge, has been one of the biggest proponents of the top-handle style in recent times; the oft-spotted ones include the Alexander McQueen Wicca Mini, the Dolce & Gabbana Sicily, and Aspinal of London’s Midi Mayfair Bag. Spring/summer 2021 collections have also turned out many versions of the top-handle bag. Chanel’s came in quilted metallic leather, while Lady Dior came in a denim iteration. No brand in recent times quite sparks the accessory craze that Bottega Veneta does. Creative director Daniel Lee, whom US Vogue’s Nicole Phelps called an “analog man for virtual times,” interpreted the brand’s stress on tactility as knitwear. The bags—in turquoise, mauve and leaf green—came in triangular top-handle styles that said louche but also (literally) sharp. Burberry’s rising star, the Pocket Bag, too reappeared, as did another proof of JW Anderson’s brilliance—the curb-chain, but on a bag. Are we exchanging gifts yet? > www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 51

DETAILS

By Rujuta Vaidya

ady Gaga once sang, “A girl’s just as hot as the shoes she chooses.” Heels have always been sexualised—in film, literature, culture. Symbolic of power and fetish, a towering pair of shoes always gives out a sense of a woman or man that’s put together. A decade ago, comfortable shoes were for the lazy and sneakers for the trendy. But all that’s long changed. There’s a fourth dimension of footwear now, the kind I much prefer to the rest— the ugly shoe. It’s common knowledge that novelty is not always welcomed with warmth. A pair of Gucci Princetown slippers might raise eyebrows and a pair of Simone Rocha x H&M satin ballet pumps in a vibrant vermillion with faux fur edging might appear unsightly to some. Stepping out in Balenciaga’s track-inspired sandals could qualify as an extreme sport—but if fashion doesn’t evoke emotion beyond pretty, why be a part of the charade at all? If you think floaters and fashion in a sentence

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FINDING OUR FEET Clockwise from top left: Kendall Jenner wearing Birkenstock; a heavyfooted Givenchy pair; ballet flats with feathers by Simone Rocha; Aquazzura’s fuzzy shoes; Gucci’s Princetown slippers; textured mules by Bottega Veneta; Arizona Love’s upcycled vintage scarf floaters

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The ugly shoe

could only exist in opposition, then you’re in for some enlightenment. As news headlines get tougher by the day, one needs to escape. If you could offer yourself a touch of whimsy in an uncertain world, even if it were on your feet, wouldn’t you take it? For Simon Porte de Jacquemus, a spliced shirt with generous underboob and flatform flip-flops exist in the same context. Confident and assertive, the Jacquemus girl takes power into her own hands to decide what’s sexy or not. At the new Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee’s crochet wedge is a mocking caricature on the balance of the sexy shoe. Elsewhere, Birkenstocks are as proudly worn as Manolos were a few years ago. Will Sarah Jessica Parker don them in the next Sex And The City? That remains to be seen. If we look at shoes purely as essential, then one could argue on the utility of the slide. It’s practical for that grocery store run, brunch with your social bubble or to walk the dog. But let’s be real—in the age of government-mandated lockdowns, your activity is limited to either/or, or all of the above. But these aren’t your dainty version—from Rosetta Getty to Gabriela Hearst, flats are veering on nearly orthopaedic designs. Perhaps as women we are done with the male gaze. Seeking comfort and practicality is sexier than hobbling at a party. A few inches closer to the ground is grounding. And the next time we get into stilettos will be to please ourselves. Until then, we’ll be spending our summer in Arizona Love. ■

TREND

Clockwise from top left: Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2021; Celine spring/summer 2021; Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss in Versace; Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis spring/summer 1993

Back to the future The ’90s are back. From minimalism to the punk spirit of grunge and everything in between, Malika Dalamal looks at how a decade full of extreme contrasts is the perfect inspiration for our current world in flux

he ’90s ar e a hard decade to pin down. While they gave rise to the glossy, Versace-clad celebrity supermodels, they also gave us the waif-like Kate Moss. We wore preppy LA-centric garments so brilliantly parodied in the film Clueless (1995), yet also saw the birth of grunge when Marc Jacobs sent models down the runway in printed granny dresses and Doc Martens. Meanwhile, sportswear became acceptable daywear long before athleisure was a thing. And today, as we all crave nostalgia and escapism in the midst of the strangeness of a pandemic, it’s no wonder that designers have returned to a time that offers something for every mood and situation. James Abraham, the man behind Instagram ac-

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count Nineties Anxiety (@90sanxiety), an online time capsule of the decade, believes we look to the past to figure out how to (or how not to) do things in the future. “To me, it’s almost like things get better the second or third time around,” he says. Tracksuits, a staple of ’90s hip-hop artists, have become the official uniform of quarantine. Back then, it was the Adidas Firebird with its iconic stripes and sportswear emblazoned with the logos of Tommy Hilfiger or Polo Ralph Lauren. This time around we are seeing nostalgic sportswear elevated with luxe details—because while comfort is key in 2021, we still want to look good. Hedi Slimane brought back slouchy tracksuits in luxurious silks and cashmere and styled almost every look at Celine with a

Waist coat, Aroka. Trousers, Shehla Khan. Earrings, Alexander McQueen

TREND

FUSS-FREE FEMININITY

ARPI TA ME H TA DESIGNER

Mehta spent the ’90s poring over images of the ‘Supers’ (Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista and Claudia Schiffer) in any international magazines she could get her hands on. As a schoolgirl during the decade, she was at an impressionable age and was influenced by fashion editorials, glitzy Versace campaigns and the supermodels’ off-duty looks. Her biggest takeaways from the ’90s were feminine dresses, as well as leggings, oversized T-shirts and a timeless leather biker jacket, upgraded today to a Belstaff version. Her look back then was punctuated with big, gold jewellery. All these years later, drawing attention to one statement piece underlines her style.

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PREP- SCHOOL STAR

A LL IA AL- RU FAI STYLIST

A true child of the ’90s, Al-Rufai grew up looking to supermodels and the protagonists of movies like Clueless (1995) and Romy And Michele’s High School Reunion (1997) for inspiration. She remembers begging her mother to buy her a pair of Patrick Cox Wannabees, the chunky loafer with its own ’90s cult following. Sadly, her mother refused, but today the stylist and fashion consultant is revisiting the decade on her own terms—in vintage Galliano slip dresses, preppy skirts, crop tops and classic Reebok sneakers. “I have even pulled out a Paco Rabanne bralette and some jersey pieces from way back. Somehow, they don’t look dated.” ■

COURTESY MANISH MALHOTRA

self- confessed workaholic, Manish Malhotra is finally taking time off. “Sundays are now a lockdown day,” he says, noting that he’s instructed his team not to call him on that day, an inconceivable command pre-pandemic for the celebrated dresser to Bollywood stars, who oversees an eponymous empire spanning fashion, beauty, jewellery, and an upcoming home line. But don’t think that one day off means he’s slowing down. An early riser, Malhotra begins his day at 4.30am, with soothing chants and setting intentions, a routine that has allowed him to focus, even during this time. In the past year, he’s launched India’s first virtual couture store, directed Nooraniyat, a fashion film with actor Sara Ali Khan, showcased his collection at the first-ever combined FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week and invigorated his social media feed. But how does one purvey beautiful clothes in a world mired in uncertainty, when essentials trump all else? Here, Malhotra discusses adapting to these challenging times, his personal and professional evolution, and his enduring love affair with fashion. Gayatri Rangachari Shah: How has the past year been? Manish Malhotra: Like many others, last year, at the beginning of lockdown, I was panicking. How would we function? How would I take care of my artisans, craftspeople and employees? I

have my mother at home and I was worried about her health... There was a morning that I realised it was not all in my control, so let me look at the upside. And the upside is that after 30 years of working non-stop, I took a pause. I was in denial about needing to slow down. I asked myself the most uncomfortable questions—do I want to get married? Do I want to have a child? What I realised is that I am definitely not getting married. And that I love to work. The only difference is that now I don’t work on Sundays. GRS: In January, you launched India’s first virtual couture store. What is it like working with high fashion in a digital format? MM: By embracing technology, we’ve opened ourselves up and allowed people to gain insight into our world. That has been a great assurance to the brand and to me. Also, I don’t have to run to the Delhi flagship for meetings. Just yesterday I did a Zoom consult with bridal clients. Customers today have accepted the changed reality. Sales on our e-commerce site have shot up and people are ordering via Instagram. We’ve put good systems in place to manage our businesses. Technology is the way forward. GRS: Thirty years as a costume designer on more than a thousand movies, and 15 years of your own label. What fuels your love for fashion? > 101

t the 2016 Cannes Film Festival, actor Julia Roberts walked the red carpet barefoot, wearing a breathtaking emerald and diamond necklace by Chopard with a Giorgio Armani Privé gown. The moment was so memorable that it is still talked about several years later. And Roberts’s association with Chopard is still as relevant now as it was then. Mesmerised by her trademark smile (Roberts’s flashy grin is reportedly insured for $30 million) and her unforgettable cinematic charisma, Chopard’s artistic director and co-president Caroline Scheufele has a new role for her to be the face of the ‘Happy Sport’ watch. “It was her and nobody else,” says Scheufele. “Julia Roberts was the only person I felt could convey the spirit that I see in ‘Happy Sport’.” The bestselling watch is famous for its dancing diamond dial that spins with a flick of the wrist, a popular timepiece for the Swiss maison since 1993. “I am honoured to be collaborating with Chopard on the ‘Happy Sport’ watch, one of the most iconic and desirable models in the industry,” says the superstar. The campaign also sees talented film director Xavier Dolan and photographer Shayne Laverdière team up, making it a crowd-pleaser.

RS: What is so special about Chopard? JR: Chopard represents this timeless idea of elegance and sparkle, and being ladylike. You think, “When I grow up, I want to be having a great time and wear watches and earrings by Chopard,” and now look at me—I’m all grown up! RS: How important to you is responsible luxury? JR: The idea of responsible luxury is something that not enough brands pay attention to. The thing with a maison like Chopard is that it has really pioneered the idea of having a conscience by leading the charge and setting an example for other brands to follow. RS: What does being a free-spirited woman mean today? JR: Being comfortable in your convictions and sharing them with those around you. Not all women have those liberties and I am grateful that I do.

The actress gets snapped in Chopard

2019 Golden Globes The movie star opts for 26.45-carat pear danglers for the awards

RS: What do dancing diamonds evoke to you? JR: Perhaps the idea that something is going to happen.

JEWELS ON JULIA

2021 Chopard campaign The belle of the box office promotes the classic timepiece <

Rishna Shah: How does your ‘Happy Sport’ watch make you feel? Julia Roberts: There is something about having a watch and seeing all these sparkling diamonds whirling around every time you look at it. It’s pretty awesome and truly good stuff.

< 2016 Cannes Film Festival Roberts rocks a pear-shaped 52.76-carat emerald barefoot on the red carpet

RS: What are your favourite qualities in a woman? JR: Depth, soulfulness and real personal strength. RS: What are your tips for happiness? JR: Be kind to others. Surround yourself with loving, kind, compassionate people. And kissing, followed by dancing as a close second. RS: What makes you laugh? JR: Cleverness. Not so much things that are funny, but things that are clever—humour that has a thoughtful thread to it. RS: What is your present state of mind? JR: I’m happy. It’s been a beautiful day and I’ve felt a great sense of kinship that I had not expected today, so I’m happy. ■

BECAUSE I’M HAPPY

We quiz the star on what sparks her joy HAPPY EXTRAVAGANCE: Travel HAPPY MOVIE: The Philadelphia Story HAPPY FIX: The sunrise HAPPY LIFE MOTTO: No way out but through

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Z I N N I A

K U M A R

The model and activist draws from her experiences and uses her mixed-media advocacy to advocate for equal opportunities for all as she seeks to push forward a new awakening Photographed by LENA C. EMERY

he ravages of COVID-19, border closures, natural disasters and a political awakening has led to a rise in the collective consciousness. People, voices and stories, which for so long were silenced, unacknowledged and banished to the fringes of media and public policy are finally being seen and heard. My family’s story and ties to Australia began 142 years ago in 1879. I am a fifth-generation Indian immigrant, born in Australia, passionate about pushing this new awakening forward. My mother set me on this path. I saw her being discriminated against, implicitly and explicitly, for most of my early life and it was while working on an education project a few years ago under the Department of Foreign Affairs that I decided to take action. I saw first-hand the damage inflicted to children under the age of five who were exposed to similar discrimination in childhood— everything from self-esteem and self-worth to educational attainment—and I became determined to understand the political, economic and bureaucratic systems that allow this kind of discrimination to exist unquestioned. I realised the best way forward was to research the system of power imbalances and to use mixed media advocacy to reach the public outside of the academic sphere. What drives me is the right for all people to live and be treated

Styled by MORGAN PILCHER

equally, regardless of the concentration of melanin produced in their skin. We are all the same, but we have been taught to hate and divide because that is what capitalist power systems based on discrimination draw their profits from—and how they maintain their power. It is my goal to see all facets of society represented in the media and not just what zeitgeist representation deems relevant. Secondary traits, such as identity, gender and size, are found in all ethnicities. Until ethnic representation is increased, and it genuinely represents the people who belong to our societies, we are going to continue to have a society where the largest minorities remain invisible and unrecognised, which creates serious problems for belonging, identity and community harmony. No child should have to grow up thinking that if they were another race, they’d fit in and be viewed as valued members of society and the beauty economy. All people deserve to be seen and deserve to belong, free from discrimination or conditional circumstances. Fashion is a powerful tool for belonging and we need to utilise its power in a positive way. Zinnia is part of Vogue Australia’s Diversity Council, a group of talented voices we engage and collaborate with as we uphold the global Vogue Values of diversity, responsibility and respect for individuals, communities and for our natural environment > 105

BLANK SLATE A minimal look packs impact in a multipurpose, utility belt Jacket, trousers, belt; all Rebecca Jeff

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A NU SH K A SHA R MA ACTOR

For pregnancy style When Anushka Sharma likes something, she sticks with it—no exceptions. Floral Sabyasachi saris, white sneakers, cosy layers nicked from her husband Virat Kohli’s closet... If it catches her fancy, you’re going to see her wearing it on loop. It’s this very habit that’s helped shape and seal her style. While 2020 won’t go down as the world’s finest year, for Sharma, it was a special one as she geared up for motherhood. Staying true to the #CoolGirlAesthetic, Sharma cradled her growing baby bump in breezy boho dresses, light-as-air kurtas and roomy tees. “I realised when I looked in my closet, that most of my clothes worked, they are all anti-fit.” But she also took over trending charts, blurring the lines between being functional and fashion-forward. A graphic Maison Margiela hoodie dress, an easy Anita Dongre maxi, a flirty polka-dotted dress, all with her trusty kicks and that megawatt smile. This new mum has simplified the trick to acing any look in the book: just go with what you love. – Nitya Chablani

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A YEAR IN STYLE In the last year, home-grown, that unsung hero, became a priority, a loyalty to the loom took precedence, and waist-up dressing became a thing. In the next few pages, you’ll find women who, like us, lived through pandemic pregnancies, rehashed old items and embraced round-the-clock house dresses. As red carpets were rolled up, celebrations went online, and runways at airports and fashion weeks closed, these women maintained their life and style logs on social media while staying close to home, giving us a glimpse into their wardrobes and their values

ATHIYA S HE TTY ACTOR

COURTESY @ ATHIYASHETTY/INSTAGRAM; R BURMAN; GETTY IMAGES

For going comfort-first Athiya Shetty does not like to shop. She loves her fix of clothing, bags and jewellery, but the process of shopping is one that she avoids. “Not many know this, but my parents still shop for me. All my sweatpants, hoodies and Jordans are courtesy my dad, and my mum picks out things for me when she’s shopping for herself. So I literally owe my sense of style to them,” says the 28-year-old actor. When it’s not her parents curating her wardrobe, it’s their hand-medowns, like her mother’s oversized white shirts and silver jewellery. As the pandemic affected all of our wardrobes, for Shetty, the times translated into a new appreciation for comfort. “I realised style and comfort go hand in hand. I’m very particular about fabrics and silhouettes now. Lycra, velvet, latex or tight leather are things that you won’t see me in again. Not now, not ever.” – Akanksha Kamath >

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MIRA RAJ PUT KA PO OR

C O N T E N T C R E AT O R / D I G I TA L I N F L U E N C E R

“I’ve actually understood myself a lot better,” says Mira Rajput Kapoor about the past year. The motherof-two, who has used this time to spotlight home-grown and local businesses on her wide-reaching social media platform, is speaking about every aspect of her life. Early on, she and her family moved base from Mumbai to a northern riverside town, where she started the India Edit, featuring conversations with experts in fields as diverse as Ayurveda and fashion. Like many, she too has been juggling home, school and work, dressing for Zoom waist-up. “I cannot wear pyjamas all day, so the flowy tracks from Zara, worn with T-shirts and a shawl, have been a life-saver. For the India Edit, I chose pieces from designers such as Vaishali S, Suket Dhir, Payal Khandwala and Anamika Khanna. And I’ve put together an accessory collection that I’m obsessed with: quartz rings from Anu Merton, a Nicobar M pendant, Bhavya Ramesh’s Bee Earrings, and my Apple watch, to track steps.” On a quick break to Goa, Rajput Kapoor’s flair for colour, print and texture came to the fore— Zimmermann dresses, a Johanna Ortiz bikini, cover-ups and swimwear from Shivan & Narresh, Saaksha and Kinni’s leheriya. ”This year, I’ve learnt to appreciate the quality of restraint, of not buying too much, not going out too much, not indulging too much. So even when I shop, rather than thinking of buying pieces that just make for a one-night-out photo for the gram, I think of how much wear I can get out of them.” – Priyanka Khanna

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For finding her sartorial voice

BEAU

WE LLNE SS

A new beginning Life 2.0 in 2021 has been a journey in self-healing and soulsearching. Three individuals tell us how they found themselves through different forms of solitude. By Aditi Bhimjyani

ALL IN THE MIND “I realised that meditation is not transcendental. It is being able to observe all that is happening to you”

KEDAR TENY

49, MARKETING PROFESSIONAL VIPASSANA AT DHAMMA VIPULA, BELAPUR, NAVI MUMBAI, MAHARASHTRA

he overlapping of Vipassana with the pandemic was purely coincidental for me. Stress always exists. It’s how you cope that separates the marathoners of life from the sprinters. I first became aware of the concept of Vipassana more than a decade ago. A 10day period of silence, basic living, 16-hour days with more than 12 hours of meditation—it all sounded like stuff from another planet. Every time I mustered up the courage to give up 10 days of my life, I would develop cold feet. But over the last couple of years, my

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soul-searching had intensified. Why am I restless? What is my purpose? Then, when reading about Vipassana, I came across a line: ‘The only way out is in.’ The answers didn’t exist with my spouse, kids, bestie, counsellor, diet plan or pills. The answers were inside. To find them, I had to commit to a monk’s life. The bag I packed was the strangest one: eight sets of comfortable kurta pyjamas, toilet kit, bedsheet, blanket, pillow, a physical alarm clock. The hustle on the day of departure was manic: loose ends at work and home needed to be tied up because in

a couple of hours there would be radio silence. I reached the centre in the afternoon. At 5.30pm came the toughest moment: I surrendered my phone and my valuables. From here on there was absolutely no contact with the outside world. From 8pm that night, the Arya Maun (Noble Silence) began. I couldn’t speak with my voice, gestures or eyes. The only people I could speak to were the dhamma sevaks (volunteers) and the acharya (the master of ceremonies) at designated time slots. My day began at 4.30am and ended at 9pm, with three marathon meditation sessions. A simple task, like focusing on my breath (ana pana), which is all I did for the first three-and-a-half days, was frustrating and agonising. Why? I felt my body would give up, that I would never be able to sit on the floor without any back support while observing my breath at the same time. This was the point when I realised I have a beast between my ears. My mind ran in two directions—in the past and in the future, but never stayed the present. Vipassana truly began in the second half of day four. I realised that meditation is not transcendental. It is being able to observe all that is happening to you. I was never an introspective person. What I liked about Vipassana is that it is meditation in its purest form—no lamps, oils, incense, flowers or photos. Those 10 days were not a magic pill. They were the start of a journey, one that equipped me with the skills I needed to meditate. On the tenth day, I wasn’t even sure if I wanted my phone back. I had never experienced peace like this.

GETTY IMAGES

“I ONLY HAD TO LOOK INWARDS IN MEDITATION TO FIND PEACE”

WELLNESS

“I LISTENED TO MY BODY, MADE IT MY LIFESTYLE AND FOUND MY HEALING” DEEP UNDERSTANDING Shaw found joy in the silence of the backwaters and learned to follow a routine that suited her dosha

LYLAH SHAW

26, ARTIST KALARI RASAYANA, KOLLAM, KERALA

or most of the pandemic, I didn’t slow down. I tried to jump higher off the ground instead. I didn’t check in with my gut. I was trying to enforce a rigid routine to distract me from what my body needed—rejuvenation. My mother is a great disciple of Kalari Rasayana, which is located on the Paravur backwaters of Kerala amid eight acres of coconut groves. I live in Delhi and being around water makes me feel alive in a deep, calm way. That was the first draw for me. I embarked on my seven-day Ayurvedic experience, not really looking for a remedy. The first step in Ayurveda is studying your dosha and following a routine based on it. I am predominantly vata (air). I learnt to eat what is best for my body.

When my digestion and my gut health improved, I felt more grounded, relaxed. Reducing spicy foods at night stopped my nightmares. I avoided eating fruit in the morning as my stomach found it hard to digest, and drank hot herbal water throughout the day. I began to understand the shift in my energy levels through the day and the subsequent importance of a clear routine (dinacharya). Now, instead of indulging in an invigorating workout first thing in the morning, I try to wake up more peacefully. Being an avid horse rider, I slow down when necessary, as it often depletes me of my energy. I also try to get the most difficult tasks at work accomplished around noon and save my creativity for the evening.

Based on my needs, I received three different treatments daily. I loved Shirodhara, where warm oil was poured on my head for an hour. It allowed me to fall asleep easier at night. During Elakizhi, herbal leaves fried with hot medicated oil were tied in a potli and applied all over my body. It got rid of my back pain, stiff joints and improved my overall muscle strength. And the Lepam massage, with its medicated herbal scrubs, rejuvenated my blood circulation and exfoliated my skin. As I walked up and down from my treatment room to my reading sala every day, I found joys in the silence of the backwaters with only the rhythmic sound of palm fronds clapping against each other. I don’t know why this reminded me that happiness is also transitory. n www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 71

HEALTH

DIGGING DEEP

MIND OVER MATTER

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YASU + JUNKO/TRUNK ARCHIVE

Can tap-dancing with your fingers on certain points of your body help relieve stress, physical pain and tension? Sheree Gomes Gupta finds out

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When it comes to her career, Sharvari is no stranger to the hustle. After assisting on films and schlepping it to auditions, the actor is set to make her Bollywood debut with Bunty Aur Babli 2. And her beauty and wellness routine is just as industrious—if she looks lit from within, it’s because she has been swiping, dabbing, juicing and trusting the process for years to make it happen. By Avanti Dalal 74

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PRASAD NAIK

Golden girl

MY BEAUTIFUL LIFE

GLOW GIVERS

Sharvari has her skincare routine down-pat. Here are her must-haves 1. ISDIN Fotoprotector Fusion Water SPF 50+ 2. Dr Sheth’s Moringa and Vitamin C Cleansing Oil 3. A-Derma Epitheliale A.H. DUO Ultra-Repairing Cream 4. Bioderma Sebium Gel Moussant 5. Bioderma Sensibio H2O Makeup Removing Micellar Water

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ON FINDING SOLUTIONS:

“Paying attention to my skincare routine is important because I struggle with acne. I suffer from PCOS, so every month I’m contending with a different kind of skin. I actually enjoy turning a product around and reading the ingredients. If I see an ingredient that I’m not familiar with, I’m the first to Google it to see whether it’ll work for me. When you have an issue, or problem points, you’ll do anything you can to find a way to fi x it. I am always looking for solutions and I see a real ROI on it. When you’re confident about your body, your skin and your mental state, that’s true wellness to me.”

“When you’re confident about your body, your skin and your mental state, that’s true wellness to me” —S HA RVA R I

ON TRUSTING THE PROFESSIONALS:

“Facials relax me. There is nothing more underrated than a face massage—it wakes you up better than anything else. What really helped my acne are black carbon peels, which I schedule every three months. The accompanying laser treatment lets the liquid carbon bind to the skin, which really lets it penetrate and exfoliate.”

ON EXPERIMENTING WITH DIY REMEDIES:

“I use an ice roller every day before I head to a shoot. We wake up at 4.45am, so the

cold helps fight puffiness. Another mix that I whip up is a lip scrub—I mix sugar with a little ghee and scrub my lips to get rid of any flakes.”

ON HAVING REALISTIC EXPECTATIONS:

“There’s no one-stop-shop solution that will make a zit vanish. Whatever you put on a breakout, it’s going to take three or four days to flatten, so I’m not looking for a magical solution. But I apply Dr Sheth’s Neem BHA Spot Clarifying Serum as a spot treatment, which makes the process much faster.”

ON THE GRIND:

“To balance my hormone levels, I try to work out at least five times a week. I do weight training twice and Pilates thrice. On a busy day, I try to get 10 surya namaskars done. It increases your heart rate, plus yoga centres me and reduces my cortisol levels too.”

ON INSIDE-OUT BEAUTY:

“My whole wellness routine revolves around my skin. I’ve given up dairy and I’m trying to eat less sugar. My favourite juice is chock-full of hydrating, skinhealthy ingredients too—I blitz spinach, cucumber, mint and amla and drink it every morning.” ■ www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 75

G E E T I K A L I Z A R D I SCRE ENW RITE R

LO S ANGE LE S

Known for: Bridgerton, Mira Royal Detective, Outsourced Geetika Lizardi’s family emigrated to the US from Chandigarh when she was two-and-a-half years old, but she visited India most summers. And in between, she spent a lot of her time translating American culture for Indians and Indian culture for Americans. “I never knew how useful that would be in my future career. So much of what I write comes from my identity as an Indian American,” she says.

“What I love about what Shonda [Rhimes] and Chris [Van Dusen] are doing with Bridgerton is upending what we think we know about this era and the people that populate it. With Bridgerton, how many people knew that there was historical evidence that pointed to Queen Charlotte being part black? If nothing else, this shines a light on parts of history that have been buried or lost.” Lizardi is big on representation. And that’s what led her to launch Gen Now, a group for underrepresented film and TV writers in the YA space, including writers of colour, LGBTQ+ writers and writers with disabilities. “The first time I saw myself represented in Western culture was in Bend It Like Beckham, where the Indian girl was the star. It was her story, she got the guy at the end. That never happens. Usually, you’re the nerdy best friend. So many people who come from marginalised communities feel that way, like the trope of the gay best friend. When do the stories begin to centre on us and our experiences?” — Neville Bhandara

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“So much of what I write comes from my identity as an Indian American” —GE E TI K A L IZ AR DI

MICHAEL FINFER (MINHAL)

Lizardi didn’t start as a scriptwriter. She majored in English at Stanford and went on to acquire an MBA before working a lucrative job at Microsoft. “I realised that this was somebody else’s dream job, not mine,” she says. Wanting to write but unsure of what to put to paper, she retreated to an old favourite. “I always loved Jane Austen because I felt like I could relate to her heroines. Their identity rested within their marriageability. The struggle in every novel revolved around finding a husband. As an Indian woman, that was part of my experience too.” Lizardi immersed herself in Regency-era literature and research, even writing a biopic on Austen, which was optioned but didn’t make it to the screen. Her interest in the period served her well when she was approached by Shondaland to come on board for season two of the steamy, bingeworthy Bridgerton. “[Writing for] it kept me sane during the lockdown,” she says.

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Dermatologists will say you need to use a shot glass’ worth of sunscreen and reapply every two hours. This wristband is your personal reminder. It will track your exposure to UVA and UVB rays, and change colour when you need to reapply sunscreen or head back indoors to protect yourself.

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If you relied on the purple, green and black colours of your mood ring to tell you how you were feeling in the ’90s, you’ll love this modern-day equivalent. It wears like a pretty unassuming wedding band, but quietly shines infrared light beams through your skin and uses a 3D accelerometer, and a gyroscope to track your respiratory rate, heart rate, blood volume pulse and body temperature. All that data can help you sleep, wake up and exercise better.

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SmartSun Wristband, 600 (pack of 10)

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Not sure if you should get in a Pilates workout or rev things up with a HIIT routine? Whoop can decide for you. The performance optimisation strap tracks your heartbeat and heartrate variability (the intervals between each heartbeat) to determine whether you should slow things down or work out extra hard. ■

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FERNANDO GOMEZ/TRUNK ARCHIVE

Who wants to live forever?

FOCUS lifestyle, to hack their biology. While it sounds implausible, you’ve probably already biohacked yourself. Ever gone gluten-free? Tried intermittent fasting? Meditated? Popped a multivitamin or a superfood supplement? Three biohackers tell us how their bodies are now not only their temples but also their labs.

“Our subconscious mind plays a huge role in what experiences and realities we create”

THE LIFE HACK

Dave Asprey, bestselling author, founder of Bulletproof Coffee and Upgrade Labs, and widely considered the father of biohacking, began his foray into the field in 2010 when he hit a health wall. “At 30, I weighed 300 pounds, with ageing diseases—arthritis, pre-diabetes, high risk of heart attack, brain fog, chronic fatigue etc., despite eating a healthy diet and exercising six days a week. When I saw no change, I realised I had to hack my own biology,” he says. Now 48, Asprey takes between 100 and 150 supplements a day with a goal to live past 180 years. Married to a doctor, Asprey is clear that medicine is not the enemy, “If I break my leg, I go to the hospital. When I need diagnostics to know what’s wrong, I go to a medical lab. When I want to fix a chronic problem, I hack it.” THE PROCESS: On waking, Asprey checks his Oura ring, which monitors deep sleep and REM activity. This is followed by Bulletproof coffee, a 15-minute meditation and chi-gong exercises, and 45 minutes of tech biohacks—cryotherapy, TrueLight red light therapy, pulsed magnetics or 40 Years of Zen neurofeedback exercises. A proponent of long fasts, Asprey eats selective foods, only between noon and 5pm. MEAL HACKS: Asprey eliminates seemingly healthy foods which can cause health issues. According to him, nightshades (peppers, potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant) can cause joint pain and arthritis. He recommends celery, fennel, carrot, broccoli, cabbage instead. He suggests replacing essentials fats like Omega 6 seed oils (canola, corn, vegetable, soy, safflower, sunflower) with ghee, grass-fed butter and coconut oil. He also prefers white rice over whole grains as the outer layer of whole grains can cause inflammation, bad skin, weight gain and block mineral absorption. THE PRO TIP: Ayurvedic doctor Shail-

—NI PA ASH A RA M

Clockwise: Nipa Asharam, Dave Asprey

endar Chaubey cautions against ingesting supplements in very large quantities. “Food has all the nutrients that the body requires, however much of the value gets lost in the cooking process. Depending on your health needs, raw food and juicing are more effective for energy boosts, weight loss and cleanses.”

THE MIND HACK

Life Coach Nipa Asharam went looking for a cure to her 18-hour migraines and discovered hacking into her subconscious was the answer, “Our subconscious mind plays a huge role in what experiences and realities we create. I realised that I attracted past patterns or things I did not want. I developed my own tools to flip the narrative, which significantly changed what I manifested into my reality.”

“If I break my leg, I go to the hospital. When I want to fix a chronic problem, I hack it” —DAVE AS PR EY

THE PROCESS: On waking, Asharam’s three breathing techniques charge her energy. Four glasses of hot water with her own powder supplements and a spoon of ghee cleanse her digestive system. Her glutenfree meals are tailored with vegan herbs and soil-based probiotics to balance hormones. 90/20 FORMULA: Asharam creates blocks of 90/20 cycles where she works > www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 79

FOCUS for 90 minutes and takes a 20-minute break. This hack keeps her in sync with the brain’s ultradian rhythm for increased productivity, minus fatigue. “Biologically, humans aren’t able to concentrate or work efficiently beyond 90 minutes—creating four cycles in a day gives me optimum results,” she says.

“Eating food your body can digest is far more impactful than eating what you think may be healthy”

SLEEP TIGHT: For chronic insomnia, Asharam biohacked her night routine— she consumed walnuts and lavender tea, did emotion-based meditation, diffused essential oils and used UV light, resulting in restful sleep that went from four to eight-and-a-half hours. HORMONE BALANCE: Stevia balances the pancreas’ insulin production. Ashwagandha and selenium balance hyperthyroid issues, lessening dependence on medication. Dong quai, shatavari and evening primrose oil significantly impact menstrual cycles. “Consuming specific nutrients during high and low oestrogen phases balances mood swings and fitness levels,” says Asharam, advising beginners to keep their bio-individuality in mind and consume supplements specific to their needs only. LONG FAST: Asharam fasts for 24-30 hours to promote gut health and balance insulin levels. “Fasting is a traditional hack to eliminate old stem cells and grow new ones. Longer fasts, planned strategically, promote digestive health and help with PCOS,” she says, but strongly recommends consulting an expert before attempting a long fast. THE PRO-TIP: Clinical nutritionist Dr Juhi Agarwal points out the very real danger of long fasts turning into eating disorders: “It’s easy to develop an eating disorder while following such trends. Depriving the body of nutrition has both long-term physical and cognitive effects—lethargy, dips in energy, brain fog, excessive control and deriving a sense of achievement only upon limiting your calorie intake are red flags to watch out for.”

THE BODY HACK

For sports scientist, psychologist, author and high-performance coach Shayamal Vallabhjee, biohacking came from a desire to optimise performance. “My job is to help the best in the world sustain a continuous 80

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

—SHAYAMAL VALLABHJEE

path to success. My passion for biohacking was not born from illness but rather from pursuit—to push the human body beyond every conceivable limit,” he says. THE PROCESS: Vallabhjee uses a mix of biohacks for performance and stability, including ice baths for inflammation. White noise machines, weighted blankets, red light bulbs (light therapy), and melatonin for sleep enhancement. Plus dry needling, cupping, foam rolling for fascial releases and EEG headsets and nootropics for brain health. NUTRITION SCIENCE: Having experimented with hundreds of supplements, vitamins, IV drips and performance-enhancing drugs, Vallabhjee approaches nutrition like quantifiable science—mapping genomes, the gut-microbiome, inflammation markers and intolerances. “Eating food your body can digest is far more impactful than eating what you think may be healthy,” says Vallabhjee. ASTRAL AND ELEMENTAL: Currently, Vallabhjee is biohacking holistically— creating physical and mental hacks using

natural elements: earth, fire, air, space and water. “I am trying to quantify shifts in our physiology and psychology using only natural elements. The benefits are incredible, but don’t experiment with something you haven’t researched thoroughly,” he warns. THE PRO TIP: While clinical psychotherapist Alaokika Motwane agrees that, in moderation, biohacking can improve health, she also warns against crossing the line into delusion. “An obsession of perfection can set in, which paradoxically makes one develop severe self-esteem issues and a lack of self-acceptance leading to isolation, rejecting social scenarios and setting severe rules for oneself, which becomes a vicious circle.” Ultimately, is biohacking safe and can it be done by all? At the beginner level, yes. “Everyone can use basic hacks to improve glycemic variability, inflammation, training, recovery, sleep and brain function. There is enough validated science to begin your journey safely,” says Vallabhjee, as Asprey adds, “We have been biohacking forever. Ayurveda is an ancient biohacking system to put yourself in better control of your own biology. We just have better monitoring tools now.” n

PICKS

Take it slow In times of uncertainty, leaning on familiar practices—indulging in a multiple-step skincare routine, lighting a candle or spending time on a face massage—can be an exercise in mindfulness. Here’s what to decompress with now

1. Chill out

Finding yourself counting sheep? Is your stomach always in knots? Can’t focus? We’ve all been there. This CBD oil isn’t psychoactive (like THC can be) so it won’t get you high, euphoric or hungry. Instead, it is a potent anti-inflammatory that is neuro-calming and works on neuroreceptors to boost serotonin levels, which helps reduce anxiety and increase focus. It turns out that good things come in small doses, and this 600mg fullspectrum CBD oil will uplift, energise and zen you out. India Hemp Organics CannaBliss Stress Buster, 2,999

2. Light it up

This candle is like tranquillity in a jar, with soothing notes of lavender and eucalyptus, making it your ideal bedside buddy. Misa candles are made of goodfor-you soy wax and essential oils, which will serve as a reminder to revel in the slowness of life and bottle up every warm and fuzzy feeling you’re after. Misa Goodnight Kiss, 1,090

Creams, serums and oils can do a lot, but gadgets and gizmos can take your skin to the next level. This souped-up face roller employs high-frequency sonic vibrations to increase circulation (which boosts collagen and elastin production) and improve lymphatic drainage. For best results, start at the neck and then move upward and outward all the way up to the hairline to release muscle tension and calm you down while waking up your skin cells. Dr G Face Sculpt Plus, 2,500

Shankara Kumkumadi Oil, 1,950

4. Tone it up

This article does not seek to promote any substance or ingredient, but is an editorial article intended to provide objective information 82

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

STEFANO GALUZZI

3. Soak it in

You might want to zip up fine lines, moisturise dry bits and blitz acne with your skincare routine, but this potent oil drills down on the concept that skincare can be self-care. The antioxidant-rich oil boasts saffron and sandalwood, both of which help to dramatically brighten skin. Massage it into clean, dry skin using upwards strokes to stimulate blood flow. Take deep breaths as you push-press the product in for a therapeutic end to your day.

CASA

SPA

Sweet escape Sometimes, it’s okay to get a little help from the outside to go within. And at this spa in the heart of Goa, your muscles and mind will both find relief. By Sneha Mankani

ine out of ten people reading this probably made multiple trips to Goa in the past year. The quickest, most attainable escape for city dwellers to take a break from everything—the land of sun, sea and sand never disappoints. For your next visit, you might want to take your straight-outof-the-beach hair and sun-kissed skin for a spa day to W Goa’s AWAY Spa, for a mindful ending to your day. Here’s why:

INSIDE AND AWAY

The people at W have a clear agenda—to take you into a labyrinth of relaxation, away from the hustle and bustle that otherwise surrounds you. As you manoeuvre your way through the spa’s swanky corridors to find your room, you’ll walk past the exceedingly tempting Vitality Pool, where you can settle against massage showers and let the stress be pummelled out of your muscles. That the 14,000sqft space was inspired by the great baths of Pompeii 84

VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 www.vogue.in

starts to make sense. Touting the spa’s treatments as massages might be cutting it short—they’re more a wholesome insideout experience. Take Om Shanti Om, for example, which works on different layers of the mind and body through a traditional Mayan aura cleansing and chakra healing ritual that helps release emotional blockages. This is when you’re ready to take in the spa’s bodywork techniques to relax every bone. Then comes Outer Glow, done with 24K gold therapy, inspired by Cleopatra, of course. There’s also Rainbow Tuning, a 120-minute deep healing session that retunes the body’s frequencies and energy field by balancing the chakras and applying the yin and yang touch massage therapy. And in Zen Shiatsu, the therapist’s fingers work their magic using rhythmic pressure on precise points of your body to allow its vital energy to flow and help to relieve muscle stiffness, sciatica related pain, insomnia, digestive problems and fatigue.

DEEP CLEANSE

An escape means shutting out the outside world to explore what’s within. And if that’s really what you’re looking for, try Sound Therapy. It starts with an aura cleansing ritual that focuses on clearing out negative energy and has a deeply purifying effect on the body and mind. This is done through the elemental energies of fire (flame), earth (plant), air (smoke), and plant medicine to dissipate old, unwanted energies. Set the right intention before you begin—you create your reality—and let it be the driving force of this session. Sound Therapy, then, takes you to the most relaxed state of mind and travels through blockages in your body to unravel them and set you free. And there you will be, in your beach waves and seasoaked toes, far from the rest of the world and at peace within. n

A TREAT FOR YOUR TRESSES Invest in yourself and indulge in much-needed self-care by showing your strands some TLC. Have fun styling your tresses like a pro from the comfort of your home with the ultimate at-home hair stylist—the Dyson Airwrap™ Being cooped up at home as a result of the pandemic-induced lockdown has, among other things, taught us the importance of self-care…something that has seen us get experimental and creative. Whether it’s skincare routines or DIY hair masks at home, we’ve used our time indoors to focus on ourselves. Since we have rarely had reason to step out, our tresses have had a well-deserved break from excessive styling. Resultantly, there’s been a noticeable improvement in hair health, but that’s not to say that we don’t still yearn to get creative with our hairstyles. Enter the Dyson Airwrap™—the perfect lockdown companion for your crowning glory. With its in-built Intelligent Heat Control technology, this styling tool lets you achieve salon-like professional hairstyles at home with minimal heat damage to guarantee overall hair health. A veritable ‘salon in a box’, the nifty Dyson Airwrap™ is neatly presented in an elegant tan leather box and comes with three temperature and airflow settings in addition to six unique attachments—including, among others, barrels to perfect curls and waves, brushes to smooth and volumise, and a pre-styling dryer to prep your tresses—designed to help you nail a multitude of distinct looks. To get you started, here are two chic hairstyles you can experiment with using the Airwrap™.

PICK-ME-UP CAREFREE CURLS If you’ve got naturally curly hair, embrace your hair texture with a fuss-free hairstyle that lends your tresses enhanced shape and shine. For voluminous salon-grade curls and waves at home, fit the Dyson Airwrap™ with the 30mm or 40mm Curling Barrels. This attachment will give your hair incredible volume and bounce, allowing the soft curls to frame your face, thereby enhancing your hair’s natural movement. This look is best-suited to shoulder-length naturally wavy or curly hair, but works just as effectively on straight hair, too.

Namrata Soni Makeup and Hair Artist Founder, Namrata Soni School of Makeup and Hair

Roshni Chopra Actor, Presenter and Entrepreneur

THE FRIZZ-FREE SOFT BLOWOUT Ace that salon-like blow-dry at home with the Dyson Airwrap™, which lets you create a smoother, straighter finish, all the while retaining the hair’s volume. The Airwrap™ does this by harnessing the power of an aerodynamic phenomenon called the Coanda effect, which attracts hair to the surface of the brush, propelling air along the length of your strands to mimic a professional stylist’s blow-dry technique. The best part? This look can be easily achieved regardless of hair type and length.

For more information, visit Dyson.in, email ask@dyson.in, call 1800-258-6688 or follow @Dyson_India on Instagram

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PHOTOGRAPHED BY PETROS KOUIOURIS

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Where To Travel Now

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Where To Travel Now

Z AY N M A LIK Where To Travel Now

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Dress, Victoria Beckham. Earring, Francesca Villa

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hat does it mean to be a successful feminist actor? For Taapsee Pannu, it’s being her own person and chasing her dreams. “I have never felt the need to live up to a different image,” she says, and then admits that she was the girl whose dreams changed often—scientist, astronaut, fighter pilot. “You know the ‘When I grow up...’ conversation on a school bus? All I remember saying is that whatever I do, people will remember me.” And for about a decade, Pannu’s been busy making her unforgettable mark via her filmography of strong leading roles and in her vocal support of issues she cares about. We speak at noon on a weekday. She’s Zoom-ready in her pyjamas, tucked away in her Mumbai apartment. While this may not be an unusual sight for most of us these days, it’s Pannu’s rare day off in her otherwise gruelling schedule. It’s been a year of transformation for the 33-year-old. She has worked on three much-anticipated sports movies—Rashmi Rocket (where she is a track athlete from the hinterland), Looop Lapeta (a remake of Run Lola Run) and Shabaash Mithu (Indian women’s cricket captain Mithali Raj’s biopic, scheduled for 2022). While the buzz around her playing multiple leads and her astonishing physical transformation is near-deafening, it goes way beyond the physical for Pannu.

FIGHTING FIT

“I have always been physically active but I never had a routine. I would do some gym and yoga when I travelled. About six years ago, I discovered my love for squash and that has become my primary workout since.” It was her fitness levels that helped her survive prep when training for Rashmi Rocket began in January 2020. “I would wake up at 5am with two hours of gym training and sprint sessions. By 8.30am, I would report for hair and makeup, followed by a 12-hour shift,” she explains. She went on to counter the lockdown with extensive functional training at home, and a 45-floor climb. And when she finally hit the Rashmi Rocket set in November last year, she was the fittest she had ever been. The Looop Lapeta schedule kicked off soon after. Shortly after it wrapped up, she started training for her cricket biopic. What keeps her going? “It’s physically daunting, but fun nevertheless,” she explains. “I have an athletic build, but I could now see every muscle and every cut. I always wanted to have a body like that, and I love sports and travel, so I guess I’m lucky to be getting paid to do all of it.” Assured but unassuming, Pannu has no qualms admitting she’s a lucky girl. “If I had to struggle for roles, I wouldn’t have lasted in this field for so long,” she confesses. But as an outsider is it really luck or hard work? We need to dial back a bit to understand how Pannu’s star was born. She comes from a typically Indian middle-class family of professionals, where it’s taken for granted that you study and get a secure job that pays the bills. “I had the most regular childhood in Delhi. We had no pocket money, we shopped twice >

She’s vocal, fearless and a force to reckon with. Taapsee Pannu is at her fittest best with a spate of upcoming releases, all as she continues being the poster girl for what it truly means to be the most authentic version of yourself, no matter what the trolls might say. By Aditi Bhimjyani Photographed by BIKRAMJIT BOSE

Styled by PRIYANKA KAPADIA

IN IT TO 88

Shirt, necktie; both Gucci. Earrings, Ridhi Asrani

WIN IT 89

Dress, Krésha Bajaj. Earrings, Alexander McQueen. Rings, Joolry, Diosa. Shoes, Christian Louboutin

Knitted dress, Prabal Gurung. Earrings, Tara Fine Jewellery. (On right hand) Uncut diamond bracelet, Amrapali. Oval uncut diamond ring, Mishri. Ring, Joolry. (On left hand) Ring, Diosa. Emerald bracelet, Umrao Jaipur

Dress, Rahul Mishra. Earrings, Tara Fine Jewellery

a year (and never without a good haggle) and we never changed homes. We studied and worked hard,” she says. But while pursuing her engineering degree, Pannu picked up odd modelling jobs for some extra pocket money. When she graduated in 2009, the film offers rolled in. “I was always this hyperactive multitasker.” So she took a year off to work on improving her CAT score (to get into a top MBA school), even as she signed on two big banner films in Telugu and Tamil. It was a brave move for someone with no knowledge of either language or industry. But it paid off. Her debut Telugu film Jhummandi Naadam (2010) shot her into the limelight and Tamil film Aadukalam (2011) went on to win National Awards.

RISING STAR

Soon enough, David Dhawan signed her on for Chashme Baddoor (2013) without an audition. “Thank God I wasn’t auditioned. I haven’t learnt the craft formally, my training is all on-set. I would have failed miserably. I was known as the girl who has the ‘Preity Zinta vibe,’” she says, adding, “which is why I even got a Bollywood break.” She didn’t make her mark as an actor with a bang, more a slow and steady trickle. She comfortably pegs herself a Bollywood outsider and outlier, but a happy and proud one. “The view is the best from here,” she adds. It was early on that she forfeited the idea of being the conventional heroine, but the real game changer for her was the critically successful Pink (2016), where she played a victim of molestation. She has gone on to essay the role of an ISRO scientist in Mission Mangal (2019), and in Thappad (2020) she plays a homemaker who files for divorce when her husband slaps her. “People now expect my work to be interesting and worth their time, so I can’t do four films a year and look and sound the same in all.” Does that mean a more picky approach on the number of films she signs on? “Being a female actor I cannot afford to do just one film a year. I wish I had that luxury. But I cannot turn my life upside down for a role,” she replies honestly. Her trade-off is to shoot one film at a go in 45 days. And as a method actor she simply psyches herself into believing that she is the woman she’s playing. “I bore quickly, so new roles and new places help. Fame is not important. I am a Leo, after all,” she quips. But then clarifies more seriously, “I am the modern young woman. My roles represent that. People should be able to relate to my character.”

WAY AHEAD

Pannu is unarguably a firebrand. She remains strong in her convictions on social or political issues on her online platforms, no matter if it’s tax raids or trolls. She is determined to remain true to herself. But how does she deal with the constant negativity? “I realised that I would get trolled even if I said the weather is good,” she says. But when Pannu wasn’t a seasoned hand, she would get angry and respond up a storm with her nameless, faceless trolls. “Now I enjoy it. I worry when I’m not trolled. I wonder, am I not relevant anymore?” Pannu might come across as a superhero on paper, never complaining and consistently fighting the good fight. But in her everyday, most of her time is spent juggling schedules between her work on-screen and off, where she’s a budding entrepreneur as the team owner of Pune 7 Aces, a badminton franchise which plays in the Premier Badminton League. She also co-owns an event management company with her sister (and current flatmate) Shagun, called The Wedding Factory. When she’s not working, she’s a homebody who wakes with the sun and sleeps by 10pm. Her spare time is spent lounging with friends and family or binging on movies and shows. As for what’s next on her wish list, her main boxes to check were to own a own home and a car (and be able to shop without looking at a price tag, though she still cannot bring herself to drop a bomb on a pair of shoes), and she’s managed to achieve that. “Now I’d rather live each day as it comes and sleep happy every night,” she says. Push her a little and she confesses that she really wants to be an Avenger, so the day she signs on as Captain Marvel will be mission complete. n 93

Fringe jacket, Manish Malhotra. Earrings, Tara Fine Jewellery. Ring, Diosa

Embellished blouse, Ritika Mirchandani. Skirt, De Castro. Earrings, Tara Fine Jewellery. (On right hand) Uncut diamond bracelet, Amrapali. Emerald bracelet, Umrao Jaipur. Oval uncut diamond ring, Mishri. (On left hand) Cocktail ring, Tara Fine Jewellery. Ring, Joolry

Dress, David Koma. Earrings, cocktail ring; both Tara Fine Jewellery. Ring, Diosa

Dress, earrings, shoes; all Alexander McQueen

Waist coat, Aroka. Trousers, Shehla Khan. Earrings, Alexander McQueen

Sequinned kaftan, Manish Malhotra. Earrings, Alexander McQueen. Ring, Diosa Hair and makeup: Mitesh Rajani/Feat. Artists Photographer's assistant: Aniket Godbole Photographer's agency: Feat. Artists Assistant stylists: Ria Kamat; Naheed Driver Bookings editor: Prachiti Parakh Location courtesy: Suryagarh, Jaisalmer

MAN ON THE MOVE

As he begins his third decade in fashion, Manish Malhotra, the master couturier and celluloid costumer, is embracing technology, reimagining luxury, and finally learning about worklife balance, all during a pandemic. By Gayatri Rangachari Shah Manish Malhotra at home. Opposite page: The couturier fitting his muse Sara Ali Khan for Nooraniyat

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COURTESY MANISH MALHOTRA

An embroidery centre; a look from Malhotra’s latest show; Urmila Matondkar in Rangeela (1995); Sridevi, his long-time muse and friend. Opposite page: Kiara Advani closes the show at the FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week

MM: I have not studied fashion, but I was crazy about films. The other day, my mother was telling me that even at the age of five, when she got me a tuition teacher to improve my English, the teacher would tell her, “Your son is only discussing my sandals and my clothes, he’s not studying.” I think my entire childhood was spent at the movie theatre. When I left the theatre, I would cry because I wanted to go back and see the movie again. Those years were such an influence on me in terms of colour, music, costumes and jewellery. On the map of Indian fashion, with thousands of talented designers, I have a unique position because I am the only designer to manage costumes, styling and mainstream fashion on a large scale. GRS: Is it the drama of fashion that appeals to you? MM: It could be. I love sitting in a fabric room putting things together. In the 1990s, we had no assistants and I was working for every single actress. I would have four hours to put a costume together. I learnt to think fast. I remember when I came back to work in July 2020, we had 250 incomplete garments for my collection. I designed a collection with whatever fabric and embroideries we had. The other day, Karan [Johar] told me, “I cannot believe that even after so long you’re still excited about a costume.” It’s something I love to do. I like seeing drama but I am not absorbed by it. GRS: Did you ever anticipate the convergence of fashion and film? MM: I hoped for it, but never imagined it [this way]. I remember with Rangeela (1995) when Ram Gopal Varma narrated the subject to me, I was so impressed because, before that, the only brief would be: “She should look glamorous.” A character sketch was never provided. I recall telling Sridevi about Gumrah (1993), “Ma’am you can’t keep changing your hair. How can it be short in one scene and long in the next?” I was working with young directors for whom I could provide a look. I never imagined what they would do for my career. GRS: But it took you 15 years to start your own brand. Why? MM: In 1999, I started a small store with Yash and Avanti Birla called Reverie, and later, I worked at Sheetal Design Studio. I began to understand retail. After I did Karisma Kapoor’s wedding, I had a lot of brides express interest and they started coming home for appointments. My brother and sister-in-law suggested we start a label. We took our first items to Ensemble, and they called me three days later saying they were sold out. From day one, I dived in and learnt how to swim along the way.

GRS: This is an interesting time in the Indian fashion industry, with corporates looking to invest in labels. Do you hope to scale up in a similar manner? MM: I realised after the lockdown that I value my freedom. I want to be an independent Indian design firm. I have been offered funding but I prefer it this way, where I have the freedom to do movies and clothes and fashion shows and fashion films. Do I want more money, more stores, more films? No. I want to concentrate on different creative art forms, like music, to make my brand more multidimensional. It doesn’t have to be what all the other brands do. I want to forge my own way. GRS: Most film stars are your friends. Is it tricky to balance your creative impulses with the demands that talent may have? MM: One thing that works with everyone is honesty. Sridevi was so intelligent and knowledgeable about her craft that she could read my face—if something wasn’t looking good, it would show. When you deal with your life and work in an honest manner you win friends all over. Whether it’s celebrities or not, I am honest about what works and what doesn’t. GRS: You’ve forayed into beauty with MyGlamm. Then there’s a line for jewellery and the home coming up. MM: I am really happy with the reaction to our beauty line. My niece Riddhi Malhotra leads it and it has done really well for us, without it having a celebrity face to endorse it. We have a new, wider range of makeup and face products coming in and we are exploring men’s grooming. With jewellery and Raniwala 1881, it was an experiment that worked. I look for partners who believe in quality, people on whom I can rely. With home, we’ve delayed the launch to later this year. I like pretty homes which smell good and have fresh flowers and plants. I like clean lines. The label will reflect that. Home will be linens and textiles, chikankari art from the nonprofit Mijwan, and embroidery from Kashmir. GRS: You’re 54 and look like you are reverse-ageing. What’s your secret? MM: Good genes. I don’t drink or smoke. I have no knowledge of whisky or wine. I listen to music, I like my books and I enjoy what I do. I think that reflects. GRS: You are also an optimist... MM: I don’t take myself seriously. Wealth, well-being, it’s all so relative. If you don’t take yourself seriously, you learn to enjoy everything. n

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POLITICS AND PINK Potent and packed with a history of protest, the light and powdery shade has a universal appeal right now Cape, shirt, trousers, shoes; all Prada

Z I N N I A

K U M A R

Styled by MORGAN PILCHER

BLOOM AND GROW Your strongest suit is your flower heart Shirt, Salvatore Ferragamo. Blazer with brooch, H&M Conscious

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BLANK SLATE A minimal look packs impact in a multipurpose, utility belt Jacket, trousers, belt; all Rebecca Jeff

STAYING POWER Whether a whisper or a shout, count on black to make a statement Blouse, Givenchy. Trousers, Bettter. Rings, all Emily Frances Barrett

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CITY OF ANGELS Lofty cut-work whites represent calm in a crisis Dress, Loewe Hair: Kei Terada Makeup: Crystabel Riley Model: Zinnia Kumar Set design: Samuel Pidgen

OUR MAN AT

As its newly appointed artistic director of womenswear, Kim Jones is bringing a deeply personal British sensibility to Fendi. He talks to Olivia Singer about drawing inspiration from the ‘Bloomsbury Group’, while Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott photograph Kate Moss wearing his debut couture collection at Charleston, the artistic set’s Sussex home

nstead of sitting amid the high-vaulted, light drenched glamour of the Fendi atelier to talk with Kim Jones about his first collection for the Roman house, we go for a country walk in Sussex on an awfully grey day, blustery and bleak with thick mist rendering it almost dark in the afternoon. We’re a long way from the Italian capital, where scores of seamstresses are in the process of weaving lattices of pearls and ornately embroidering couture gowns for his upcoming debut, but, nonetheless, it soon makes a lovely sort of sense. Jones recently bought a holiday home here, in the quiet village of Rodmell, a stone’s throw from the house where he spent much of his upbringing, and a few doors down from Virginia Woolf’s cottage. “As a teenager, I spent a lot of time cycling round all these villages,” he smiles, sidestepping a growling tractor, “This first collection feels almost autobiographical.” While this is Jones’s first womenswear collection, he has stood at the forefront of fashion for more than a decade: his, thus far, three-year tenure as artistic director of menswear at Dior—where he has translated the feminine romance of the founder’s codes into elegant tailoring and a boldly contemporary sensibility—has already earned him almost every industry award going (alongside a wealth of female fans, from Bella Hadid to Naomi Campbell). Before that, his seven years as director of menswear at Louis Vuitton

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are regularly credited with transforming the fashion landscape by transposing his encyclopedic knowledge of streetwear’s cultural codes onto hyper-luxurious terrain. (In 2017, he was responsible for the house’s collaboration with Supreme, broadly considered a signifier of fashion’s shift into a new age.) Accordingly, much has been written about his youth: the son of a hydrogeologist who specialised in irrigation projects, Jones grew up between England and Africa (with stints in Kenya, Ethiopia, Botswana and Tanzania, as well as in Ecuador), and his early life is easily mapped onto a lifetime of collections imbued with wanderlust and disparate cultural references. “From a small age, I realised there was a lot in the world to see,” he says. “But in many ways, it’s harder to research in lockdown, so what I’ve done is look internally.” Rather than commandeering one of his regular research trips to the Amazon or Japan, for Fendi, Jones has returned to the youth he spent in Rodmell, around Lewes and at the Charleston Farmhouse. It is here that, one December afternoon, as rain spits against the painted windows, Kate Moss is lounging upon the same living room chaise as the Bloomsbury Set would have nearly a century ago, while dressed in Jones’s newest designs. (Moss is also consulting on accessories for Fendi). “I always wanted to wear his menswear—and now he’s making womenswear!’’ Moss laughs, >

COURTESY CASPER SEJERSEN; GETTY IMAGES

Kim Jones

FENDI

MUSEUM WORTHY Supermodel Naomi Campbell at the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week spring/summer 2021 Fendi showcase

“Fendi is about strong, intelligent, pioneering women, like the Bloomsbury women, like the women in the show” –KIM JONES

draping a dress that hybridises crisp grey masculine tailoring with a gown embellished with hundreds of crystal wildflowers. “What he does is always very cool and modern. He knows exactly what people want to wear.” Later, I ask Jones what could possibly have drawn a teenager to this curious little farmhouse, with its low 16th-century ceilings and its perfectly preserved bohemia. “When towns have a famous literary or artistic figure who lived there, it’s in the air,” he recalls. “There was something about the collective creativity of the Bloomsbury Set—immortalised by Charleston, where they worked and romanced one another with remarkably liberal attitudes— that he says was irrepressibly magnetic. The collective energy of 112

the movement is distinctly visible in the way that Jones operates now. “It was collaborative, a family,” he says of the group. “Which is how I like to work.” He is renowned for his collaborative spirit, both with his teams and his extensive circle of illustrious friends (from Kanye to the Beckhams, to Kate and Naomi). “What I love most about Kim is his ability to bring family wherever he goes,” reflects Adwoa Aboah, one of the formative muses for his vision. “He keeps such a wide range of people around him— artists, musicians, youth, everyone—which is why his work continues to remain so relevant. He finds inspiration everywhere.” That energy is pronounced in his debut, which will be modelled by families both chosen and biological, but it is Orlando (1928),

GETTY IMAGES; NIKOLAI VON BISMARCK

From left: Silvia Venturini Fendi and Kim Jones at the Fendi headquarters in Rome; Kate Moss at a fitting with jewellery creative director Delfina Delettrez Fendi; sketches for Fendi couture spring/ summer 2021. Opposite page: Supermodel Bella Hadid at the couture show earlier this year

Woolf’s modernist novel, that has offered the most direct starting point for his couture collection. A time-travelling exploration of the mutability of gender, it was written in dedication to Vita Sackville-West, Woolf’s long-time paramour, whose son later referred to it as “the longest and most charming love letter in literature, in which [Virginia] explores Vita, weaves her in and out of the centuries, tosses her from one sex to the other, plays with her, dresses her in furs, lace and emeralds, teases her, flirts with her, drops a veil of mist around her”. The story has been regularly referred to in fashion—its explicit references to the importance of clothing in establishing one’s identity easily lend themselves to designers looking to imbue their work with meaning. But Jones has taken a more oblique approach in reasserting its relevance. Just as Orlando oscillated between the worlds and wardrobes of different times, Jones has used the biographies of the women who will model his debut to excavate the Fendi archive, drawing references from their respective years of birth and the house’s history. “Each look is about the personality who will be in it. That’s the luxury of couture, it’s designed specifically for the person,” he says. “I wanted to look at different points of time at Fendi, which is why Orlando came into my head. I wanted to pull out points of reference from Karl, but renew them,” Jones continues. ‘’To look at them in a lighter way, to see them with a new eye, but without it appearing nostalgic.” Equally, Woolf’s staunch feminism—and the Bloomsbury women, each a force in her own right—offer a parallel, he suggests, to Fendi’s history as a matriarchy. While Lagerfeld served as creative director at the house for the 54 years up until his death in 2019, its name has been upheld by the four generations of women who have acted as its custodians since it was founded in 1925 by Adele Casagrande (who named it in honour of her husband, Edoardo Fendi)—and it was Casagrande’s five daughters who, in 1965, recruited the German designer to modernise the brand’s aesthetic. In the interim between Lagerfeld’s passing and Jones’s debut, Silvia Venturini Fendi, Casagrande’s granddaughter, who has directed the brand’s menswear and accessories since 1994, acted as its creative guardian before handing the reins to Jones. “I always had an attraction to Kim, and now that l work with him, I understand why,” reflects Silvia, who has considered the designer a friend for more than a decade, and still remains an integral part of the brand’s creative process. I like working as a duo, and working with him reminds me a lot of how I used to work with Karl. This was written in the stars. It was karma,” she says. What he has created for his debut, then, is something of an amalgam of Jones’s own lifelong obsession with Bloomsbury’s profoundly British romance and the historic Italian grandeur of

the Fendi name. In the collection, déshabillé draped dresses are cut as if frozen in time in the manner of Bernini’s marbles, but are hand-embroidered with wildflowers, and swirling swags of fabric are affixed by blooming rosettes. He has found echoes of ltaly in the marbled paper that once bound Bloomsbury books, which the couture ateliers have now translated into a wealth of breathtaking fabric techniques. The tragic story of Woolf’s suicide (a substantial part of our walk is spent tracing her final footsteps to the river in which, aged 59, she drowned herself, is echoed in pooling gowns dripping with crystals, or bulbous droplets of Murano glass strung as jewellery or inset as curlicue hairpieces. It’s exquisitely opulent, but rather than appearing abstractly ethereal—perhaps aside from a liquid organza gown that floats almost lighter than air, anchored only by its crystalline hem, it appears determinedly grounded in Jones’s world of cool covetabiility (Kate sitting at a table, slouched in an immaculately tailored satin suit proves the point). “We live in a modern world, so I like for there to be reality,” he asserts. Once we’ve driven back from Sussex to Jones’s London home, he continues to give me a tour of the Bloomsbury artefacts he’s collected over the years. Here, alongside the art he has amassed over the years—Magritte, Francis Bacon, Amoako Boafo—there is a dresser painted by Vanessa Bell, which sat in Virginia Woolf’s Richmond home, and an endless library filled with first editions, publisher manuscripts and annotated copies of books that belonged to the Bloomsbury clan. “These books have touched their hand, and the hand of the person who they loved and wanted to give it to...it just feels like there’s an energy to it. And you don’t ever really own anything, you’re just keeping it while you’re here.” It’s a sentiment that echoes Silvia’s feelings about why Jones makes such a perfect fit for the house that bears her name: one that she says she loves more than herself for the weight it holds for her family. “One of the first things that Kim did was ask Delfina Delettrez [Silvia’s daughter] to join us, which was the best thing because it was a sign of love, and that he understood Fendi, and that its history goes on,” she smiles. “The first thing I wanted was to make sure Delfina came on board because she’s the next generation of the family,” he continues (Delfina, whose eponymous jewellery brand has been thriving for more than a decade, now oversees jewellery for the house). “I want to respect Silvia, and to think about the legacy of the house. Fendi is about them: about strong women, intelligent women, who know what they’re doing in their lives. Pioneering women, like the Bloomsbury women, like the women in the show. This is a statement: one to celebrate Fendi, and the stories of all of these amazing women.” It’s certainly a celebration, and the new chapter of the story will unfold from here. n 113

A NU SH K A SHA R MA ACTOR

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ATHIYA S HE TTY ACTOR

COURTESY @ ATHIYASHETTY/INSTAGRAM; R BURMAN; GETTY IMAGES

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TARA SUTA RI A ACTOR

For a classic approach Tara Sutaria entered Bollywood in 2019 with Student Of The Year 2, sealing her spot as teen queen in candy-coloured Moschino tees and neon layers. The past year, however, has seen the actorsinger-dancer step into a new avatar, with classics percolating her closet. White reigns supreme in the 25-yearold’s wardrobe, and her impressive collection of intricately detailed chikankari kurtas serves as proof. Muted palettes are always welcome—a romantic ivory dress for lunch with beau Aadar Jain, a soft grey Arpita Mehta kaftan for balmy evenings— and colours come into play by way of failsafe co-ord sets in sweet pinks and checkered blues. It’s all about the fine art of balance in this rising star’s closet, where millennial must-haves work in harmony with timeless treasures. – Nitya Chablani

TA HIRA TARA C HAWL A ART HISTORY STUDENT

For acing the zero-effort-required look An art history student, Tahira Tara Chawla’s madefor-the-front-row sensibility is all about comfortfirst. Case in point: her daily uniform that typically comprises jeans or eclectic trousers with a shirt, hoodie or blazer and “always a pair of sneakers” (her current favourite is a brand-new pair of Air Jordan 1s). “I prefer clothes that make me feel comfortable and confident—effortlessly chic looks that, in reality, aren’t effortless at all,” she says with a laugh. The most recent label crushes saved on her Instagram include Nensi Dojaka, Supriya Lele, The Mannei, Aleksandre Akhalkatsishvili and Christopher Esber, among others. London-based Chawla credits her innate sense of style to her mother, the aesthete Kalyani Saha Chawla. “I feel particularly stylish in something stolen from my mum’s wardrobe,” she cheekily admits. “The last thing I ‘borrowed’ from her was an Issey Miyake jacket. It’s so versatile. I like to wear it as a dress or with shorts.” – Praachi Raniwala

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COURTESY @SPACEMUFFIN27/INSTAGRAM; @ TARASUTARIA/INSTAGRAM; TEJINDER SINGH KHAMKHA; GETTY IMAGES

D I A MI RZ A

A C T O R , P R O D U C E R A N D S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y A D V O C AT E For a wedding wardrobe steeped in sustainability When Dia Mirza decided to tie the knot during the pandemic, she knew two things for certain: it would be a priestess who would marry her and she would wear a red sari to the wedding. Why a sari? “Because I wanted to be able to wear it again and again,” she says. With that, together with Raw Mango’s Sanjay Garg, Mirza chose an intricately woven Benarasi sari, with Garg bringing the moon to Mirza’s bridal sari. The actor and producer offset the bold red of her outfit with green emerald and polki diamond jewellery. On her designer of choice she tells us, “Sanjay has some of the most beautiful weaves that are rooted in traditional textiles and yet have a representation of modern India. A lot like me.” – Akanksha Kamath > 117

MIRA RAJ PUT KA PO OR

C O N T E N T C R E AT O R / D I G I TA L I N F L U E N C E R

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GETTY IMAGES

For finding her sartorial voice

S H AGUN KH AN N A

BEAUTY AND WELLNESS BLOGGER For crafting a closet with care When Shagun Khanna’s son Adhiraj tied the knot earlier this year, her outfits were noticed just as much as the happy couple’s. Great style, perhaps, is hereditary. Khanna describes her taste in Indian wear as “extremely rooted”. Her preferred labels are Raw Mango, Dabiri, Anju Modi, Rohit Bal, Narjis and Nidhi Thoila. “I go for pieces that carry some form of authentic traditional textile or work, as opposed to Indo-western or any kind of fusion wear. The lehenga that I wore for my son’s wedding was handcrafted from Dabiri and the reception one was from Anju Modi.” Khanna descends from royalty, and heirlooms form an integral part of her collection. The wellness and beauty influencer, who lives between London and Delhi, is far from experimental with her wardrobe. She also does not venture near statement pieces. To stay true to what she preaches—wholesome, mindful living—she’s found a handful of new-age brands that make you feel good about taking a small step in creating a more mindful lifestyle, such as Nicobar for daily wear kurtas. – Rujuta Vaidya

NITYA ARORA

JEWELLERY DESIGNER A N D C O N S U LTA N T For bringing sexy back While most people sought refuge in loungewear this past year, part-time luxury brand and design consultant and full-time jewellery designer Nitya Arora flushed out the oversized pieces in her wardrobe for silhouettes cut closer to the body. She has her workouts to thank for the big switch. “My style is constantly evolving as my body (or the world around me) changes. It’s gotten sexier in the last six months, and I feel more confident in my skin now,” reveals Arora. So if it involves lace, satin or an iridescent fabric, sign her up. This explains why labels like Shivan & Narresh, Rimzim Dadu, Raw Mango, Schiaparelli, Gucci and Alexander McQueen hold top-drawer status in her life. Arora is also equally adept at scouring local markets, vintage stores and fabric shops. “I love textiles, so I make a lot of my own clothes too,” she says, which include cotton co-ord sets she swears by to beat the Mumbai heat. – Praachi Raniwala >

SAN JA NA RISH I

L AW Y E R , C O N T E N T C R E AT O R AND ENTREPRENEUR For wearing her values Scroll through Sanjana Rishi’s Instagram and you will see the influencer using her platform with purpose. A reel educates her 24K followers on how to navigate greenwashing, while another has her posing in the Maldives in a swimsuit she’s owned for 15 years. Reuse, rewear and repeat is something Rishi roots for. “I specialised in human rights law in America, but since I’m not allowed to practise law in India as a foreign lawyer, I followed my heart to find another vehicle for my advocacy,” she says. While vintage and secondhand items populate her wardrobe, it’s her new passion project that she hopes to fill our closets with. “I wanted to create a brand with easy, lowwaste designs and collaborate with small businesses,” she says of her new venture, Nindia. The first collection rides the tie-dye trend with a collection of organically dyed loungewear in a facility where even the dye water is recycled. – Akanksha Kamath

RADHI K A K APO O R JEWELLERY DESIGNER

Peruse Radhika Kapoor’s instagram, and you’ll be drawn into a a medley of colour, texture and print, in fashion, home and travel, all celebrating the beauty of handmade in India. “Its been a cathartic year, with so many lessons. And the way I’ve kept afloat is by travel, post the first lockdown.” A long-time patron of crafts, she delved further—in Maheshwar, she bought yardage and saris from WomenWeave, beautiful cotton Chettinad weaves from Karaikudi. “I enjoy wearing jackets from local shops in Kutch, block prints from Brigitte Singh, odhnis from Torani, along with Masaba’s boho tracks, cotton weaves from Payal Pratap and pieces from AK-OK’s prêt line,” she says about her lockdown wardrobe. “When the world opens up, I will embrace our Indian designers even more and celebrate this amazing heritage that we have access to.” – Priyanka Khanna

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ADITI GUPTA; NISHANTH RADHAKRISHNAN; LUKE LI; GETTY IMAGES

For creating impeccable vignettes

A KANKSH A DEO SHA RMA DESIGNER, IKEA

For mixing fashion and function For 30-year-old Akanksha Deo Sharma, embracing Gorpcore was less of an aesthetic decision as it was a practical one. When one moves from the tropics to Malmö in Sweden to take on a dream job, there isn’t much of a choice. “I started doing a lot of sports last year in my new city. I was doing outdoor sports in the snow in minus six degrees and having winter baths in the frozen lake, so naturally, I’m starting to really understand the art of layering—and geeking out on technical fabrics for outdoor fashion.” In this part of the world, the weather does influence your wardrobe. In Deo Sharma’s case, it’s been a closet full of 50 shades of black. “I can’t wait to see my first proper Scandinavian summer and drown myself in a bit of colour and be reunited with my sequinned blazers, ikat silks, jamdani scarves and khadi saris that are still enroute to me via ship.” – Rujuta Vaidya

AN U ME RTO N

JEWELLERY DESIGNER For showcasing the power of accessories Over the past few months, Bengalurubased Anu Merton, who is from the border of Bihar and Nepal, has made it to our radar for her beautifully curated personal style and whimsical jewellery designs. “I love menswear-inspired clothing. A white chikankari kurta with a sarong or pants, a tailor-made white linen or cotton kaftan, or a silk dress with a deep back with a beautiful organza duppatta from Raw Mango to wear for dinner. I like my clothes loose but sexy.” It was a longing for seeing handcrafted styles at an affordable price that led Merton to start her label. “I think jewellery shouldn’t be stored in lockers. I don’t shy away from wearing a lot of things at once. I love keeping the colours in line and lengths varied, wearing pieces on nude or beige coloured threads that merge with my skin, only showing slivers of metal. And yes, I take every piece off at night.” – Priyanka Khanna >

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EKTA RAJAN I

STYLIST AND BRAND C O N S U LTA N T For being a home-grown hero “Péro, Savio Jon, Kallol Datta, ASA Clothing, Arjun Saluja, Good Earth, Shades of India, Tarun Tahiliani, Sui…,” fashion industry veteran Ekta Rajani is firing off her favourite labels. What unites these brands, besides their pride of place in Rajani’s wardrobe, is a conscious quotient. “I am shopping within my own wardrobe in an attempt to rewear my golden oldies and reduce how often and how much I buy.” After 20 years in the industry, Rajani has acquired plenty of envyinducing pieces. Some of them, so many years down the line, remain on repeat in her dressing routine even today. A handloom denim jacket, upcycled a few years ago, a pair of vegetable-dyed and handblockprinted trousers in a bold floral print, and a hand-embroidered chikankari angrakha jacket by Tarun Tahiliani, of which Rajani says: “As much as Tarun is celebrated as the maestro of lightweight bridal wear, it’s his ready-to-wear cuts and drapes that I really love.” – Akanksha Kamath

C ECIL I A MORE L L I PAR I K H

CO-FOUNDER AND OWNER, LE MILL For hitting refresh on a capsule wardrobe “As a rule, I hate bags. I should not say this because I sell bags, but I feel most bags communicate status over design. I usually carry my grandmother’s 50-year-old Gucci bag at night. And during the day an old Hermès plume bag. The leather is so used, it’s perfect,” says Cecilia Morelli Parikh. It is her ability to wear the same item in a new rendition that is fascinating. “A good Dries Van Noten piece is forever. One piece, a green embroidered blouse, I wore with a kurta by Surily to a wedding, over jeans to a dinner in London, and with shorts to Alibaug. “Another very, very old” white The Row shirt finds several uses in her daily life—on the beach over a swimsuit, over a pair of great cropped Saint Laurent pants for meetings, with a pleated skirt and flat shoes for a gallery visit... It’s all about finding a few trusted items and then building myriad looks around it. – Akanksha Kamath

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PHOTO:ANIRUDH AGARWAL (EKTA); HAIR: SHEFALI SHETTY(EKTA); MAKE UP: DIVYA SURESH(EKTA); STYLING: NAYANIKA KAPOOR (EKTA);GETTY IMAGES

DEE P S H IKHA KH ANNA

C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R , F LO W For recognising the power of a capsule wardrobe When it comes to her personal and professional style, Deepshikha Khanna’s boundaries are fast blurring. “I wear a khadi kurta with cotton tights on most days, leaning on accessories to bring the look together.” It was a personal quest to find good quality basics that led her to start Flow, a label at Goodearth that focuses on a capsule wardrobe. This year also found Khanna curating @Dailystylematters, an Instagram account dedicated to the beauty of things local and hand-made. “My endeavour is to bring craft and textile into the everyday.” Ask her about her favourite finds and the list is extensive: “A Ryoko Haraguchi silk sari made with the Itajime Shibori dyeing technique, Seema Kahai for resort wear, Kasturi Kraft’s gorgeous rugs made in Bikaner, Ekà, Maku, and Aish Life for clothes.” And like us, she finds her inspiration online: ”Instagram provides an incredible insight into a world that one could only access with much difficulty. Thanks to that, on my mood board you’ll find a world of design that I can never get enough of.” – Priyanka Khanna ■

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A TOUCH OF SUMMER

COLOUR COMPANY We’re cold-shouldering our way through a summer done right via a bright, bold and airy jumpsuit Jumpsuit, Tarun Tahiliani. Shoes, Christian Louboutin. Earrings, Tara Fine Jewellery. Cuff, Kharikajai. Turquoise ring, Tribe Amrapali

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WAVE-MAKER Catch the wind in coordinated sets of ruffled crop tops and skirts with thigh-high slits Recycled cotton bra top, recycled cotton skirt; both Roopa Pemmaraju. Earrings, Kharikajai. Rings, Sapna Mehta

Prints, patterns, colour, texture—Indian collections come out to play as the mercury rises and tactility becomes the emotion we long for. Go forth and revel in the elemental approach to summer staples Photographed by FARHAN HUSSAIN

Styled by RIA KAMAT 125

BIG-SLEEVE ENERGY Tangerine queen meets Disney princess Blouse, ‘Malie. Earrings, turquoise bangle; both My Motifs. Bangles, Lara Morakhia. Rings, Tribe Amrapali

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CREATURE OF COMFORT The new suit is an indie-printed jacket and flowy trousers with enough leg room Blazer, Sunira. Pyjama trousers, Tilla. Earrings, Tribe Amrapali. Gold-plated bangle, Kharikajai. Enamel bangle, Hermès. Shoes, Zara

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TOP TIER Long, cascading dresses earn their stripes in our capsule summer wardrobe Dress, Rara Avis. Shoes, Zara. Earrings, Tribe Amrapali. Bangles, Lara Morakhia

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EAT, SLEEP, REPEAT Sweet dreams are made of printed pyjama sets in sumptuous silk Silk shirt, pyjamas; both AK-OK. Earrings, gold-plated bangle; both Kharikajai. Cuff, Tribe Amrapali. Ring, Sapna Mehta

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JUST KEEP SWIMMING Elevate your bikini with a sheer blouse that amps up the drama Blouse, high-waisted bikini bottoms; both Shivan & Narresh. Shoes, Zara. Earrings, Sangeeta Boochra. Cuff (bottom), MNSH. Cuff (top), ring; both Tribe Amrapali

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GOOD VIBES ONLY A dress to dye for Tie-dyed mul dress, tie-dyed mul overlay; both Ka-Sha. Shoes, Louis Vuitton. Earrings, Tara Fine Jewellery. Cuff (top), MNSH. Cuff (bottom), Tribe Amrapali

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NO RULES Mix velvet with florals, dresses and suits, silver with turquoise Silk velvet pantsuit, Kshitij Jalori. Dress (worn under), Joskai. Earrings, rings; all Tribe Amrapali

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SHINING LIGHT Command your spot in the sun in a sheer gown with affixed flowers Dress, Rahul Mishra. Shoes, Louis Vuitton. Earrings, My Motifs

Hair: Mike Desir/Anima Creative Management Makeup: Kiran Denzongpa/Feat. Artists Photographer’s assistant: Ehsan Mallick Art assistant: Swapnil Murkute Production: Happy To Help Films Bookings editor: Prachiti Parakh Model: Elizabeth Mech/Anima Creative Management Location courtesy: The Great Eastern Home

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Known for: Brooklyn Nine-Nine, Master Of None Brooklyn Nine-Nine, the binge-worthy American comedy that follows the exploits of a quirky set of detectives, got a lot of us through the great lockdown. What makes it brilliant? The cast and the writing. Meet Lakshmi Sundaram, one of its celebrated writers, who confesses that she was “half-raised by the television” before she goes on to explain, “My parents are doctors but they have always been passionate about the arts. So we saw a lot of theatre, from Broadway to off-Broadway and rinky-dink theatre, we saw all of it.”

M U N I R

SCRIPTW RITE R/ PRO D UCER

LO S AN GE L E S

Known for: Never Have I Ever, Mr. Mayor “I like using comedy as a way to take the sting off painful truths,” says scriptwriter Amina Munir, whose skills perfectly cross comedy with culture, as exemplified in Netflix’s Never Have I Ever. The show told a larger story of cultural dynamics and grief while resting its narrative on the intertwined lives of a teenager, Devi, her mother, Nalini, and her beautiful visiting cousin, Kamala. “I think of the times I’ve felt betrayed by portrayals of South Asian women in Hollywood, who are either oppressed and/ or too academically focused. So, naturally, I am tempted and drawn to messy and complex characters—women who embody good intentions but bad decision-making, women who get to be human and experience a spectrum of emotions,” she explains. The show, backed by Mindy Kaling, packed a writer’s room full of first-generation Indian Americans, like herself, intending to deliver a Saturday-night binge that moved its characters away from the model minority myth. Five years onto the scene and Munir has artfully learnt how to appeal to audiences across ages. The secret, she says, is the age-agnostic ability of a good script. “I think the reason a lot of people have identified with Never Have I Ever is because so many of us carry our teenage emotions with us all our lives. They’re so raw and humiliating, it’s hard to shake them even in adulthood.” Her comic timing and wit have worked their way into NBC’s first season of Mr. Mayor, where she wrote episodes alongside Hollywood’s resident funny girl Tina Fey. Parlaying that success, she is now serving as a producer for the show’s second season. What’s next for South Asian storytelling in Hollywood? “The door has been cracked open, but it’s important that there is diversity amongst the South Asians telling stories too. We just have to keep on holding the door open and making sure we lift emerging voices in the space,” she says. — Akanksha Kamath

Sundaram, who recently finished working on Season 4 of the hilarious Tracy Morgan show The Last O.G., and Hulu’s Wu-Tang: An American Saga, hopes to helm her own show soon and start focusing on directing as much as writing. She adds, “I am also working on a dark sci-fi comedy that would star an almost all-Indian cast. I wish I could say more, but it’s still in the development stage.” As far as diversity and inclusion in the industry are concerned, she says, “I’m tired of seeing the same old story about arranged marriage or the same depictions of Indians that keep us frozen in some ’90s version of how white people remember or see us. I always ask: ‘Is it relevant and resonant? And to whom? Is it saying something that hasn’t been said and needs to be heard?’ Representation needs to be healing and powerful.” — Sheree Gomes Gupta >

MAYA MYERS (LAKSHMI)

A M I N A

She hit her 10-year mark in the industry this year, but the writing wasn’t always the plan. She says the best decision of her life was when she signed out of an eight-year medicine programme in Brooklyn to transfer to Columbia University in New York to pursue writing. In her second year of school, she got hired to write for a major network musical drama called SMASH on NBC. “That’s how I got my agent and manager and was set on the track of writing for TV,” says Sundaram, “I was lucky enough to see the works of writer-directors like Spike Lee, Mira Nair, Gurinder Chadha and M. Night Shyamalan... It would be years until I started exploring Satyajit Ray, who is now a pivotal inspiration for me.”

CULT S P O TL I G H T

The writing on the screen From Bridgerton to Never Have I Ever, the on-screen narrative has changed. Meet the women of South Asian origin who are rewriting Hollywood, one script and one show at a time

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G E E T I K A L I Z A R D I SCRE ENW RITE R

LO S ANGE LE S

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“So much of what I write comes from my identity as an Indian American” —GE E TI K A L IZ AR DI

MICHAEL FINFER (MINHAL)

SPOTLIGHT

M I N H A L

B A I G

S CR IPTW RI TE R/DI RECTO R/P RO D UCER

Known for: BoJack Horseman, Ramy, Hala Hala Masood is a 16-year-old skateboarding, hijabwearing Pakistani American. Her coming-of-age story, complete with wildly vacillating crushes and a sexual self-discovery, is similar to any adolescent’s account of life. A decade ago, her story would not have existed in mainstream media. Today, it does. But what adds a unique layer to the universal narrative of this story is writer Minhal Baig’s nuanced gaze. “This may sound controversial but I don’t constantly think about my ‘Muslimness’ or my ‘brownness’ all the time,” explains Baig. “I don’t ‘other’ myself. I’m just writing stories that are influenced by my world view, which has been shaped by my faith, culture, upbringing, family and friends.” Baig is not concerned with facts and figures, but rather, the emotional truths that run deeper. Through her direction, she zooms into moments in her characters’ quotidian lives, with an empathy that feels like an arm around the shoulder. The fine arts graduate from Yale University took up screenwriting in 2011 after tinkering with

SEATTLE

courses during college. “When I started making short films in 2015, I didn’t know many other South Asian filmmakers outside of the usual suspects.” A turning point, she says, was when she discovered The Salon, a collective of South Asian creatives in Hollywood, where a community of like-minded people came together to discover talent, provide mentorship and develop pipelines to job opportunities. Balancing the correct representation of a marginalised community while being cognisant of her audience is a delicate balance. With regards to the occupational hazard of being occasionally misunderstood, Baig says, “There is definitely an added layer of research. I have to be aware of the potential pitfalls, stereotypes and contrivances. At the same time, communities are not monolithic and characters are complicated.” What keeps her creativity fuelled is a conviction that storytelling can change culture. And with her deal with Amazon Studios, where she’s currently writing on two TV shows and developing two pilots and two features, she’s ready to change it up. — Akanksha Kamath >

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SPOTLIGHT

B I S H A

A L I

SCRI PTWRI TE R/EXEC UTIVE PRO DUCER LONDON /LO S A N G ELES

Known for: Ms. Marvel, Loki, Four Weddings And A Funeral, Sex Education Bisha K Ali has always chased stories. “I remember being at summer camp, sitting under a tree with another kid, talking about the future and how all I want is to tell stories one day,” says the Warwick economics graduate. As the showrunner and screenwriter for this year’s anticipated TV adaptation of Ms. Marvel, featuring the MCU’s first Muslim superhero Kamala Khan, Ali is firmly in the spotlight. As a young Muslim woman herself, she says that she is in a space where she is focusing on the solidarity between herself and other people from minority groups within the space, instead of paying attention to stereotypical troll-fodder brickbats surrounding issues such as race, gender and religion, to name but a few. “I’ve grown close to so many people with similar struggles. Sharing our findings, experience and knowledge, building solidarity, and making work to include each other has been the greatest joy for me,” she admits. “I have learnt an incredible amount from other women of colour.”

Though she was born in London, Ali’s childhood was split between three countries—Pakistan, Saudi Arabia and the UK. Her influences, as a result, are

just as diverse: “I was exposed to so much. I grew up reading RL Stine, Stephen King, Ursula Le Guin, Isaac Asimov and Margaret Atwood. And my mum raised me on Star Trek, Star Wars, Robocop, Blade Runner, The X-Files, and The Twilight Zone, but we also regularly watched Zee Horror Show and went to Bollywood screenings at our local desi cinema in London.” As far as future plans go, she won’t go into specifics, apart from telling us that she’s going to work with a teenhood hero of hers. “I couldn’t be more thrilled. I wish I could tell you everything, but I can’t.” — Neville Bhandara

“I got to this point by writing constantly and learning about the craft as much as possible” —BI S HA K AL I

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GABRIEL EBULUE (BISHA); DEIDHRA FAHEY (VIDHYA)

It wasn’t an easy ride to where she is now. She did plenty in between graduating and finally writing for the screen, including working at The Economist, in international development, at domestic violence support organisations, and as a stand-up comic. Finally, she achieved her dream and wrote for projects including Mindy Kaling’s Four Weddings And A Funeral reboot and the Netflix smash-hit Sex Education. “How I got to this point was through writing constantly and learning about the craft as much as possible, refining my voice on the page and getting drawn back to that initial spark for storytelling,” she says.

V I D H Y A S C R IPTW R I TE R

“Comedy...has the power to change lives” —VI D H YA I Y E R

I Y E R

LOS A N GEL ES

Known for: Mira Royal Detective, Little Voice, Kanya ViDhya Iyer is in a great position to make a difference in the narrative of South Asian and Indian storytelling, a responsibility she takes very seriously. More importantly, though, she wants her work to be funny because “comedy has the power to wrap heavy concerns in a package that audiences are more receptive to, it has the power to change lives,” she says. Iyer draws heavily from her personal experiences growing up in a family of Indian immigrants (her mother is a doctor and her father is a businessman) in Nigeria before completing her computer engineering at Anna University in Chennai (incidentally, whilst running a franchise of an Italian restaurant) and later moving to Los Angeles for a fellowship programme at the prestigious AFI Conservatory. But it’s the last year that set the ball rolling. It began with Disney Junior’s Mira Royal Detective, the path-breaking American-Indian CGI animated series inspired by Indian culture. “I’m thrilled that this generation of kids will be able to see themselves on-screen, especially because I have a young niece who watches the show and I know how much she loves it,” she says. Next came Little Voice, a romantic comedy-drama television series produced for Apple TV. And then Kanya, the coming-of-age drama about a girl challenging the norms set by society for women, which she co-wrote with Apoorva Satish. “We come of age at several different points in our lives and it is always painful, funny and weird... I like to write about those turning points,” she says. She’s currently busy with season three of Hulu’s Solar Opposites, the animated sitcom revolving around a family of alien refugees in Middle America and a project for a streamer on love across the world. Iyer, who has worked with Oscar-winning director Ron Howard through the Silicon Valley-style mentorship programme Impact, is also teaching TV writing at Sundance, where she’s been interacting with an “interesting mix of writers from Brazil to Mumbai, and exploring new interests.” She is focused on her purpose, though her writing is geared towards bringing to life stories she wished she had seen when she was growing up. She adds, “Representation means writing threedimensional characters with nuance and unique points of voice, not having a single narrative define an entire community, culture or religion on-screen.” — Sheree Gomes Gupta ■

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BOOKS

n the year 2000, Jhumpa Lahiri was “hit by lightning”. At least, that is how she describes winning the Pulitzer Prize for fiction, aged 33, for her debut collection of short stories, Interpreter Of Maladies (recently reprinted for its 20th anniversary, it has sold more than 15 million copies worldwide). Overnight, Lahiri became a rare kind of literary celebrity—when she married Alberto Vourvoulias-Bush, then deputy editor of Time Latin America, in Kolkata the following year, “photographers climbed on to scaffolding” to take pictures of the glamorous Indian-American author. Now 53, in person—or rather, on-screen—Lahiri is as considered and unhurried as the books that followed, each one critically acclaimed. From her volumelined office at Princeton University, where a blizzard rages outside, she presents herself as the quintessential professor of creative writing, as direct and warm as the pared-back stories of domestic life she has made her name with. Her debut novel, The Namesake, came three years after that “bewildering” Pulitzer win, and was adapted into a Hollywood film; her follow-up short-story collection, Unaccustomed Earth, won the Frank O’Connor award (there was no shortlist— no other book was deemed worth considering), while her 2013 novel The Lowland was shortlisted for both the Booker Prize and National Book Award. Not long after, President Obama presented Lahiri with the 2014 National Humanities Medal. “Oh yeah,” she smiles modestly, “that was nice.”

FOUND IN TRANSLATION

Words collide Whereabouts by Jhumpa Lahiri (Penguin Random House India) is out now

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A powerful new novel begins a fresh chapter in novelist Jhumpa Lahiri’s now bilingual career, says Olivia Marks

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It’s been eight years since she published a novel. Actually, that’s not true—it is eight years since Lahiri published a novel in English. Several years ago, at the height of her career, the author decided she would only write in Italian, a language that she’d only recently become fluent in. Her upcoming novel, Whereabouts, is in fact a work of translated fiction. Lahiri first published it in Italian—Dove Mi Trovo—in 2018, before translating it into English herself. “I mean, it wasn’t a very rational thing,” she admits of her pursuit of Italian, which in 2012 led her to uproot her husband and two young children from Brooklyn to Rome. Beguiled by the language since a trip to Florence as a student, lessons at

BIKRAMJIT BOSE; GETTY IMAGES

Lahiri receives the 2014 National Humanities Medal from President Obama

home could only get her so far—this was the tongue that she wanted to live, think and write in. “For so many years, I felt it the way one might have a kind of sixth sense about something that they can’t explain,” she says. “I just felt the language was going to offer me a sense of place and of joy. And those were two things that I had really lacked in my life, in either of the other two languages I speak.” The daughter of Bengali parents (her father was a librarian, her mother a teacher), Lahiri was born in London, before the family moved to Rhode Island in America when she was two. She has described herself as a linguistic exile, always “outside” of the languages she has grown up with. Subsequently, life in the margins is a recurring theme of Lahiri’s; her work has largely been concerned with belonging and identity, history and connection, specifically in relation to the South Asian immigrant experience. Take the stories in Interpreter Of Maladies, in which Lahiri inhabits various perspectives from a grieving Indian couple in Boston to a male tour guide encountering an American-Indian family on holiday in Odisha—that probe what it is to never quite fit in, to always have the feeling of being a stranger in your surroundings, wherever they may be. While Whereabouts may mark a linguistic departure for Lahiri, it is still a novel that deals with life on the periphery. This time, her protagonist is a nameless woman in her mid-forties, single, unmarried, childless. Throughout the book, compiled like a “mosaic” into short chapters (‘On the Street’, ‘In the Piazza’, ‘At the Beautician’) that reveal the intimacies of the woman’s everyday life as she moves through the unnamed Italian city she has always lived in, she finds herself at a crossroads, chewing over her past, how she got to where she is and what might be left to come. “I was thinking about what it would be like to be a woman more or less my age, in an urban setting, and to be living your life according to certain social-cultural expectations,” explains Lahiri. “How would she wear that reality?”

HOME AND AWAY

On the outside, Lahiri—with a 20-year marriage and two teenage children, who says she belongs “nowhere”—has little in common with her protagonist. “I was curi-

“We are from nowhere and we are from everywhere. We need to acknowledge and appreciate that” —J HU M PA L AH I R I

ous what it might be like to be a person who’s always lived in the same place, because that is so not my experience,” she says. “Even though I’ve lived in the United States for years, when I would go away and come back, I never felt that I was going home. I just felt like I was going back to the house where I lived.” After their first year in Italy, the family decided to stay—it’s now been more than eight years of “moving back and forth” between Rome and Princeton. “I think our children have been totally shaped by this decision,” Lahiri says. “They were never allowed to feel comfortable in any one place. And I know that took a toll on them. But I think that also has made them who they are and who they will be.” She never thought this life would supersede her old, stateside one, but it has. “It’s strange to say, but I have so many more friends there than I have in America,” she says. Among them is the Italian writer Domenico Starnone, the husband of Anita Raja, who allegedly wrote the Neapolitan novels under the alias Elena Ferrante. Lahiri translated the foreword. Starnone

wrote for the anniversary edition of Interpreter Of Maladies. “That was particularly satisfying to me,” she smiles, pulling a copy from the bookshelf. How does she feel, 20 years on, about the sudden success she received as a debut author? “Sometimes I think I would have enjoyed it a lot more if it did come later,” Lahiri admits. “I really questioned it for years. I just sort of thought, ‘Why did they give that to me?’ I didn’t know it wasn’t a mistake.” Currently, she is the teacher of that next crop of young writers. “I think that they’ll have a lot on their plate, but I think every generation does,” she says of her students, who are trying to forge a career. “They’ve had to confront and cope with a set of challenges I certainly never had to, but I always want to be optimistic about young people. There’s imagination, ingenuity and determination. They care deeply about correcting the wrongs in our world, in our society. It’s older people we need to worry about.” For now, she is eagerly awaiting the vaccine, not just to get back to Rome, but because it is being able to travel and find new places and cross borders that “enables you to understand most of humanity. Why is it so important to us to feel that we belong somewhere? That a place is ours?” she asks. “What makes a language yours? And what makes it mine? They’re such huge, problematic questions.” And ones, she continues, that cause “so much strife in the world”. “Movement has been what’s made our civilisation move forward,” Lahiri says. “We are from nowhere and we are from everywhere. We need to acknowledge and appreciate that.” n www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 141

ART

Paint by numbers They’re young, audacious and relatable—illustrators today are using social media to not just rack up the likes, shares and followers, but to introduce new audiences to art and take its engagement to viral proportions, finds Radhika Iyengar

t 17, d igital artist and activist Priyanka Paul created contemporary goddesses. Inspired by poet Harnidh Kaur’s Pantheon, Paul’s modern Kali was “a badass brown girl” with piercings who stood up against misogyny and sexism. Paul wanted to disrupt the idea of divine femininity and present them as “modernday epitomes of feminist liberation,” she says. The series was widely circulated and appreciated, and is a telling example of 142

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how art is being consumed in India today. The digital age has been a game changer for artists like Paul. Platforms like Instagram have transformed into virtual galleries, allowing them to independently exhibit their works to a growing empire of followers. It has orchestrated the rise of a new tribe of illustrators—young and unafraid to make a statement. From media conglomerates and brands to publishing houses and galleries, everyone is teaming up with these

illustrators, whose subversive styles and unconventional palettes are breaking new ground and bringing in new audiences.

ON POINT

Art is an extension of their personality. Paul’s illustrations, for instance, are marked by a bold irreverence for patriarchal, heteronormative and casteist structures. At the same time, they celebrate womanhood, body positivity and dialogue on mental health. “I think my art

witty one-liners, the artworks feature the “urban, new age, unapologetic woman”. Think vibrant headdresses, loose tees, groovy earrings and Gloria Steinem glasses—an ode to sisterhood. “My work is about women who may or may not be making all the right choices in life, but are still enjoying the journey,” says Guptaroy, who has a score of clients including Adobe and Amazon India. “The internet is full of women like me navigating life, making stupid decisions, but finding humour in it as well.”

BIG PICTURE

Above: India’s First Hype-Court by Sajid Wajid Shaikh in collaboration with St+Art and Air Canada (2018). Right: Vocal For Local - Renaming International Fashion Brands Post Pandemic by Srishti Guptaroy (2020). Opposite page, clockwise: You Have Value by Rachita Taneja (2020), Goddess Kali (2016) and Koli Fishing Community (2020) by Priyanka Paul

is popular because apart from being good work, it’s also my voice,” says Paul, who is now 22. “My artistic sensibilities have always been rooted in making art approachable and starting a conversation.” It’s the no-filter, no-nonsense voice that resonates with people. The beauty of illustrations is that they are raw, organic and often manifest as an emotional response. 22-year-old artist Tara Anand, who has worked with brands like Google and The New Yorker, agrees. “I think sometimes using art rather than a photograph can get a point across in a way that’s more abstract and human.” From sensitively portraying an anxious schoolgirl for a period campaign, to an illustrated book that celebrates India’s women warriors, rulers and powerhouses, Anand’s artworks serve as micro-portraits of modern women.

TELL TALE

The stories illustrators want to tell today are the pinprick to our complacency bubble. Rachita Taneja’s monochromatic stick figures, for instance, have an iconoclastic appeal. Her popular webcomic Sanitary Panels serves as a sharp, often critical response to the sociopolitical goings-on in the country, while boldly advocating feminism, LGBTQ+ rights and the right to free speech. “Let’s face it, we’re living in a dark time right now and it’s important to have art and public discourse reflect that,” she says. It’s her “simple, nonconfrontational artistic style” anchored in dark humour that makes her art “easy to digest and relatable” for many. At the other end of the spectrum are Srishti Guptaroy’s technicolour, fashioninspired memes. Often strapped with

Their drawing rituals are distinct and sometimes even borderline eccentric. Illustrators like Sajid Wajid Shaikh, who has worked on projects with Air Canada, St+art India and Adidas, says his freewheeling, abstract compositions often emerge from various experiments. Once, he pushed himself to the brink of hunger. “I’ve been exploring different kinds of mental states to see how that reflects in my art,” he explains. “Sometimes I’ll restrict my food consumption and draw, or I’ll draw when I’m right at the cusp of falling asleep. There is a stark contrast between such compositions.” Undoubtedly, the illustrators are the thought influencers of our time. Each has amassed loyalists and consciously honed a relationship. The ReFashion Hub’s representative, Divya Thomas, who recently collaborated with a coterie of artists and used their virtual clout to raise awareness about fashion and its impact on the climate, feels that a strong way to get Gen Z and millennial audiences interested in important conversations is by reaching them “through artists that they trust”. More and more giants like Netflix, Google, Adidas and OkCupid are reaching out to collaborate with young illustrators whose colour-drenched, intimate worlds depict a newfangled reality. “These illustrators have grown up in the digital world, tussling between old-world truths, 2020 realities and dreams that generations past have never believed in,” observes OkCupid India’s marketing director Anukool Kumar. “Through the stories they tell in their beautiful artwork, the world becomes less lonely. You’re reminded that what you think, feel and want are valid and that you deserve it.” n www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 143

Battle ready Breast cancer survivor Shormistha Mukherjee shares how she reclaimed her sense of self by accepting the rage, pain and fear while powering through with a generous dose of sass and laughter

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LIFE

ith in two days of realising that the lump you’ve had in your breast for months is malignant, the doctor tells you that you’ll have to take it off. Not just the lump but the breast and the nipple as well. And before you can learn to spell mastectomy, the plastic surgeon is sizing up your breast and talking to you about a reconstruction. My brain flipped its self-preservation switch. I felt like I was watching everything from the outside. Or maybe it’s my love for terribly trashy reality shows. I was now starring in one of them—and it was called Keeping Up With The Cancer. The only way I knew how to deal with it? To look at everything from a distance and find the funny side. So I begged my doctor to put in some extra time at surgery and take some fat off my hips as well.

“I struggled. More than with my body, I struggled with my mind. I just didn’t know who I was anymore” —S H OR M IST HA MUKH ERJEE

ADAM VOORHES/GALLERY STOCK

Should I laugh or should I cry?

Then came dealing with the way people reacted to me being diagnosed with cancer. Most people would immediately lower their voice and talk to me slowly. Dude, I haven’t got brain damage, it’s cancer of the breast. Or the person I barely knew on social media who reached out to me with words of encouragement and a link to an “inspiring article”. I was touched, so I clicked and started reading. A lovely inspiring story of a lady battling cancer. Hold on. It’s about a lady who was battling cancer. She died. Of a relapse. For the third time! Should I laugh at the stupidity of the person who thought this would cheer me up or I should bawl my head off, because well, the lady died. In the end, I do both. When not offering unsolicited ‘inspiration’, most people hear the C-word and just get so freaked out by it. They avoid making eye contact, they don’t know what to say... I even lost a friend who just stopped being in touch with me because she couldn’t handle it. For me, coping was observing all this and having a good cry and laugh over it.

The real side effects

Next came the rage, which I decided to channel into a rager. Right before my

surgery and chemo, I played the cancer card, generously. I ate everything I could, knowing that my days were numbered, literally. I live in Mumbai. Where pipe dreams include owning your own house and getting a good table in a good restaurant on a weekend. Since the C-card has its limitations, I called this trendy restaurant that I could never get a table at and asked for a booking. When they said no, I whispered, “But I have cancer. And my surgery is in three days.” I got the table. Then comes, well, more crying. So much more crying. Over losing my hair, my sense of self, being scared, being superstitious, being alone, not being alone. It’s hard. Not just because of what is happening to you and how the chemicals are messing with your body and your appearance, but because everyone, except your doctors (thank God for that!), is scared. So scared that they can’t even say the word cancer.

I struggled. More than with my body, I struggled with my mind. I just didn’t know who I was anymore. My periods stopped, my eyebrows and eyelashes fell off, I couldn’t recognise myself. And yet, I had to be patient. This was a long haul of nine months. But this was my reality show, and I was going to win it. My book Cancer, You Picked The Wrong Girl (HarperCollins India) is really about that. Me, in this rather ghastly show, filled with surgery and chemo and constipation and side effects and everything else that comes with a mastectomy, reconstruction, 16 rounds of chemo and 20 rounds of radiation. And all the laughter and the crying that goes with it. I made it through. And I hope that for anyone who, god forbid, ever has to go through this, or for a caregiver, or a friend, or anyone too scared to say the word cancer, I hope this book gives them hope and makes them snort out their tea in laughter. n

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hen Farah Ahmed Mathias refers to her home “as a labour of love, blood, sweat and tears”, she is not being entirely sentimental. In 2017, while setting up her Bengaluru home, the interior designer was pregnant with her daughter Leah. A week from her due date, she was in the middle of an animated discussion with her contractors when her water broke. “We were at the master deck when it first happened,” she recalls. “I went to the bathroom, wiped myself and returned to the chat. It happened again, but by the fourth trip to the washroom I knew it was time to rush to the hospital.” In retrospect, the frazzled moment melded the two reigning passions in her life—motherhood and design. Ahmed Mathias wryly admits that no matter how stressful things get while she plays mummy and interior designer, she dislikes taking a moment off from either role. “Let’s just say, when I gave birth to my babies I also gave birth to a lot of guilt. I am constantly torn between being there for my two children and giving my best to my work. I used to breastfeed Leah, then come to the home site to supervise. Then I’d take an hour off from work, meet my son at the corner of the road, head to the pool with him, go home and make sure he eats something, cross the road and return to the site again.”

IN HER ELEMENTS

Ahmed Mathias’s family is a snug glove around her work, but she makes sure there’s always enough room to flex. One would imagine that designing her own house would have been a breeze. As the co-founder of FADD Studio, one of the premier design studios in Bengaluru, she and her business partner Dhaval Shellugar are known to make audacious statements on art, architecture and culture through every project, be it luxury villas, 146

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KINGDOM OF CALM From top: The television room with a green bust from the Kochi Biennale, a wooden tribal lord from Hawaii and ‘Chandigarh’ chairs from Phantom Hands. The foyer with a Simran Lamba painting and on the Magari console is a brass planter that was once a naval warship canon. Opposite: The family at the glass-roofed deck with walls reminiscent of a Spanish hacienda

music lounges or hospitality spaces. Over the past nine years, the duo has stubbornly resisted stasis by not letting any signature style define their identity. However, the 37-year-old designer says it’s tougher when you are your own client. Despite the luxury of space at her disposal—her ground-floor apartment with a wraparound garden takes up about 7,000 sqft—she was often stalked by indecision. “As a designer, I’m constantly exposed to many design ideas and beautiful objects on an hourly basis, so it became even more difficult to pinpoint exactly what

LIVI

C A S A

The home that love built Using soothing colours to enliven an ancestral home, interior designer and mother-of-two Farah Ahmed Mathias creates a private oasis that marries creativity with necessity. By Rajashree Balaram Photographed by GOKULL RAO KADAM

Styled by PRIYANKA KAPADIA

I wanted for my own space. Choosing each piece felt like choosing a marriage partner. When you spot ‘the one’, you instinctively know.”

PERFECT UNION

It was only to be expected that like all married couples, she and her husband Torun would have their own share of arguments when they set up home. “I’m not a fan of wall points, and Torun was clear he didn’t want a false ceiling. So, I had to rack my brains to make light work from a given point. Even-

tually, I designed a lighting system set in a long, metal tract, which goes from one part of our living room to another. When you switch it on, the light falls on the wall. It’s like a mid-century modern industrial tract that covers about 40ft.” Lighting choices aside, there was a collection of Bauhaus-inspired Baxter chairs that she’d set her heart on for many years. “I was sure that no matter what the sofa colour or texture would be, those muted chairs with leather armrests would be in my living room. Torun was against it, but right now they are home,” she www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 147

CASA

INTERIOR STYLIST: SAMIR WADEKAR; BOOKINGS EDITOR: JAY MODI

MADE TO MEASURE Clockwise: A customised marble dining table against an abstract captured by Ahmed Mathias. The designer in her bedroom on a console by Chairs & Company, against cement walls handpainted with botanicals by Vicky Venkatesh. The ante with chairs by Magari and a brass cabinet by Chairs & Company

COSY NOOKS Clockwise: With colour blocked walls, the living room features a Nomon wall clock, Baxter chairs, a plush Gamma sofa, carpet from Carpet Kingdom and a painting with molten coal and tar by Simran Lamba. The children’s playroom has a French vintage vibe with floral wallpaper from Designer’s Guild. In the children’s study and bedroom is a trio of wall frames with their first outfits

says smugly. The couple laughed and fumed their way through many such “silly arguments” for two years, till the last of the pieces arrived in December 2020 and their home was finally set. Today, the house with walls in pastel shades of blue, grey and peach, is perpetually awash with light, breeze and—what the couple wanted the most—fresh, positive energy. Once her husband’s ancestral house, the space has been remodelled to accommodate three bedrooms, a powder room, an entertainment room-cum-library, a living room, a kitchen-cum-dining area and a foyer.

LIFE LESSONS

Every room opens onto the garden and the insides are generously dotted with begonias, bromeliads, aloe and agave plants. “I always wanted a lot of plants, inside and outside. I got that love of gardening from my mother,” she adds. There are many such inherited loves and bestowals that make their presence felt all across her elegant home. A 100-year-old rosewood screen in the garden is a reminder of her great-grandfather’s furniture business; a Mangalore thali that was used to serve vast quantities of rice during community gatherings is now an elegant artefact near the

deck; a brass cannon from an old warship that was brought from Russia to India by her father-in-law, who served in the Indian Navy, is now a vintage planter in the foyer; and an old temple door is now a tabletop in the garden. However, Ahmed Mathias is proudest when she speaks of the stencilled floor of the deck that she painstakingly made by juxtaposing five shades of pigmented cement. “When I first shared the idea, people wondered how I’d get that effect with cement. Now it looks like a Persian carpet!” A restless soul who loves being on the move, Ahmed Mathias says she couldn’t have imagined being confined indoors. However, her decelerated momentum during the lockdown came with a deeper awareness of things that matter—family and friends. This time allowed them to host cosy get-togethers with a close circle of friends and many such occasions were centred around their well-stocked bar, done up with perforated MS sheets. “It emulates the old New York restaurants with their tin ceiling tiles. It’s a small space but a rich one.” Like most parents juggling homeschooling with work, she has designed a fixed schedule so the couple can “stay sane”. The kids are tucked into bed by 8pm—the hour of the day among her favourites as it’s filled with the sounds of fairy tales, jokes, songs— before the couple retire to watch their favourite shows at the end of the day. “Surprisingly, the lockdown helped me recalibrate everything that I wanted from life,” she says. “I realised it’s okay if a shade of yellow does not turn out to be as deep as I had imagined it to be or if things get delayed beyond the deadline. People will survive and so will I. But the moments I have with my family won’t return. What I have now is really all that I need.” n www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 149

Feel at home

Effortlessly blending modern design with traditional cra , this new trio of villas in Goa celebrates thoughtful homes that speak of the past, finds Esha Mahajan

ASHISH SAHI

mid lush paddy fields and an abundance of wild lotuses, nestled on the banks of the Thamirabarani river in Tamil Nadu, is Pattamadai village, which a community of skilled artisans calls home. Here, they handcraft fine reed, unique to the region, into soft, supple mats—an alchemy of sorts that transforms the grass to silk. This hamlet has a curious connection with three new luxury villas in cosmopolitan Goa: it instils in them an approach to design mindfully, sustainably and consciously.

SPECIAL FEATURE

CINNABAR HOUSE

Clockwise from top: Al fresco dining near the pool; the family room with Scandinavian-style seating has custom floor tiles by Bharat Floorings; From left: Inaya Living’s Krishna and Megha Patel with architect Ahsan Ansari and interior designer Pavitra Rajaram; the bedroom with bedding from The Flame Store; a cosy reading nook flanked by towering bookcases on either sides

“When you work by hand, honour the maker and are sensitive to the use of resources, you’re able to focus on quality and ensure that what you create is built to last,” says designer Pavitra Rajaram, who led the interiors of the Goa villas by Inaya Living, a new realty brand that aims to propagate thoughtful design. The creative director of her eponymous studio and former lead designer at Good Earth worked directly with the Pattamadai weavers to create modern blinds that not only filter light, but also keep temperatures cool. “I had to be judicious about what I chose. I couldn’t wake up and say I want 10 blinds, because the reed has to be harvested, sundried and woven. I had to be so clear about what I was going to use and how I was going to use it, that it felt like meditation.”

CRAFTING A NARRATIVE

The three sprawling villas—titled Cotton House, Cinnabar House and Macassar House—rest in a private, forested estate in Assagao, with sweeping views of paddy fields, the music of nature, and visits by peacocks, parakeets, doves, koels and hornbills. For Megha and Krishna Patel, the Mumbai-based founders of Inaya Living, the brief was simple: to create beautiful, robust homes steeped in global design and contemporary craft. Basically, homes that celebrate slow living. “The calmness from the generosity of space, the feeling of being connected to our surroundings, the interplay of inside-outside areas for both community and contemplation—we were inspired to build homes that embraced all this. We love modern homes but also value craft, so it was exciting to marry the two,” says Megha. > www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 151

MACASSAR HOUSE In fact, craft is at the heart of these homes. “Each piece is thoughtfully curated, specially commissioned or painstakingly collected,” she adds. Old ceremonial Naga shields made in wicker, carefully acquired from design firm Heirloom Naga, the winner of the JSW Prize for Contemporary Craftsmanship in 2019; manchaha designed and hand-knotted by weavers in Rajasthan, commissioned through Jaipur Rugs; footwear recycled from rubber tyres, traditionally worn by the Maasai tribe in Serengeti and Ndutu, sourced from towns in Zanzibar and Tanzania—all these inform the design vocabulary. Yet, each retains a distinct identity, shaped by Goa’s historical place. While Cotton House reflects the influence of the east through seafaring Indonesia and Sumatra in particular (both Portuguese colonies like Goa) by way of barn-like Batak architecture and Balinese courtyards, Cinnabar House borrows from the laid-back aesthetic of the South of France, in response to Goans who migrated to Europe in the 20th century. Similarly, Macassar House references Arab traders from North Africa who came to Goa in search of wood, ebony and heavy spices. “My approach began with how Goa had interacted with the world and how the world had interacted with Goa. I looked at maps, old books and manuscripts, and realised that Goa was unique because of where it was located. Having these geographical relationships in mind helped create a vision that was unique,” says Rajaram.

NATURAL ORDER

More than craft or design, what unites these homes is their commitment to sustainability. Not as a catch152

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Clockwise from top: The insideout courtyard of Macassar House; the house has a forest view on one end and a field view on the other; the bedroom features a bench custom designed by Pavitra Rajaram Design and upholstered with textile from Heirloom Naga; The living room with Berger rugs from Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar and the green vintage bottle scoured from Goa’s Mapusa market

SPECIAL FEATURE

COTTON HOUSE

Clockwise from top: Cotton House, with its Balinese-styled courtyard, is built on stilts and conceptualised by Ansari; the family room painted in Asian Paints’s Milan Red has a concrete roof adored with handmade banana fibre lights from Ubud; the dining area with wooden lattice work windows and custom cane and old Burma teak door; the entrance has an installation of origami birds titled ‘Freedom,’ designed by Rajaram in collaboration with origamist Aditi Anuj

DESIGN STOP

ASHISH SAHI

Goa’s favourite shopping spaces for all things home THE FLAME STORE, SANGOLDA CLARO, ASSAGAO PAPER BOAT COLLECTIVE, SANGOLDA RANGEELA, ASSAGAO RANJI’S, MOIRA

phrase or real estate greenwashing, but as a driving ethos. In fact, in a first for Goa, these homes hold the IGBC Platinum rating for sustainability. “To us, it means mindfulness,” says Krishna, who tapped into his experience from his primary company NESCO, which builds platinum LEED-certified real estate projects under the entity NESCO Realty. “Sustainability is about intelligent architecture and earthfriendly design that interacts closely with nature. It’s about creating a way of life that favours indigenous materials that do not create a large carbon footprint.” This comes through at every stage of construction—with materials procured from within a 400km radius, use of low VOC paints and adhesives, walls made with laterite (used in Goa for centuries) that keep the rooms cool. These aren’t details you’d typically notice, but what you cannot miss are the verdant, fragrant gardens that engulf the homes, created by landscape artist Taera Chowna. For Cotton House, the courtyard features light and shadows that change through the day, which architect Ahsan Ansari used as his starting point for the designs.

DREAM WEAVERS

Through collaborations with artists, there are subtle reminders of reuse, repurpose, recycle everywhere. Take the recycled wire mesh lights for the staircase atrium of Macassar House, lined with Shibori fabric. Or the industrial light sculpture by Yaazd Contractor, son of leading architect Hafeez Contractor, who used an abandoned box beam at Cotton House. “With the past year, we’ve begun to value the importance of space and nature far more than ever—these homes are a reflection of that. The future of homes is an amalgamation of not only aesthetic and comfort, but also technology and the inclusion of the outdoors,” adds Ansari about the sprawling spaces that are positioned as primary homes. They are not weekend getaways, as is the norm in Goa, but year-round residences that encourage one to slow down. ■ www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MAY-JUNE 2021 153

TASTE

Shanghaiborn Zoey Gong practises Traditional Chinese Medicine in Brooklyn, New York

Herb mentality

ZOEY GONG

he Mayans and Aztecs are believed to have turned to hot raw cacao to open their heart chakras. In the Amazon basin, ayahuasca leaves continue to draw hordes with the promise of a spiritual experience, and in Japan, for centuries, monks have sweared by a matcha fix before meditating. Closer home, the Bhagavad Gita prescribes prayers to be recited pre-meal, with verses that draw a connection between food and spirituality. What all these ancient civilisations seem to share is the Hippocratian oath to let food be your medicine. “It is Vedic wisdom that our bodies are made up of five elements: earth, water, fire, air and ether.

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Whenever there’s an imbalance of these elements, there is disease. As soon as we bring back the balance, there is health,” explains Subah Jain, founder of the Satvic Movement, an Indian health education platform with over two million followers on YouTube. In New York, Zoey Gong, a Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) nutritionist and chef, echoes Jain when she explains: “The core of Yao Shan (TCM food therapy) is to use food to adjust imbalances.” The two schools may seem diverse, but both celebrate the healing properties of cinnamon, ginger and gotu kola in our diet. For me, the foremost repository of food-based healing rituals can be found in the Atharvaveda,

CASSIE ZHANG

SHAMIKA MILLER Founder of wellness brand Five Seasons TCM, Shamika Miller also conducts formal courses in herbalism. Below: Proponent of a plant-based diet, Subah Jain has over 2.51 million followers on YouTube

wherein rests the philosophy of Ayurveda. Even 3,000 years later, many Indians subscribe to it. The way we cook, whether it is the tempering or chonk that comes loaded with phyto-nutrient rich spices, or garnishing with vitamin C-soaked lemon juice, it all goes back to the principles in Ayurveda. Jain, who practises Vedic wisdom, prefers the umbrella term ‘nature cure’, and relies on food from the earth, with minimal human interference. Her path may be mainly vegan, but it’s not gluten-free (wheat with bran is permitted) and each day begins with ash gourd juice. In her diet, chapati flour is mixed with ample vegetable puree and coconut flakes replace cooking oil owing to its natural fat. “Just by changing our food choices, any chronic or acute disease can be healed,” she feels.

centuries old. “Our ancestors lived off the land and used plants to assist them. I use this same knowledge to reconnect with Mother Earth and use her magic to change the narrative around healing in my community,” she explains.

KITCHEN SECRETS

ABC OF CBD

Over 12,800km away from India is Atlanta, Georgia, where herbalist Shamika Miller is preaching similar nature-based healing to her community through her Instagram @essencetheherbalist. “Plant magic is the original way of healing in every culture. Nature provides the truest form of healing and it can be used in many ways to assist communities around the world,” says Miller, who often draws culinary inspiration from her African-American heritage. “My grandmother introduced me to ‘sweet oil’, where garlic from the garden was infused with cold-pressed olive oil. Once infused, she would pour it into my ear,” says Miller, who has now adapted this family recipe for a global audience. Predominantly working with herbs that grow in her backyard, Miller’s produce comprises dandelion, dead-nettle and chickweed, and her method is similar to the Bach flower remedies developed by Edward Bach in the 1900s. And though Miller has been practising herbalism for just a decade, her school of thought, just like Vedic wisdom or TCM, is

Healing herbs have always been shrouded in controversy, with very little medical information to back their claims. The Indian soma, a hallucinogenic mountain plant-based drink, was always looked at with caution. Similarly, in the western world, cannabis generates caution and curiosity among those looking for nature-based cures. In 2017, cannabis came under the spotlight in India (after being banned in 1985), when Uttarakhand became the first state to legalise its plantation. However, even today, the culinary access to this ingredient is limited to hemp oil and seeds. San Francisco-based Monica Lo, founder of Sous Weed, a cannabis education platform, provides recipes that turn cannabis into tinctures and cooking oils via her website. “Research has shown various benefits of including cannabinoids in your wellness routine. People use it to cope with stress, anxiety, insomnia and chronic pain,” she says. Lo aims to shift the negative perceptions around cannabis, so the world can better understand its healing >

SUBAH JAIN

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TASTE

Through her educational platform, Monica Lo hopes to shift the negative perceptions around cannabis

properties. “My goal is to correct the narrative around cannabis use and reclaim the herb as our ancestral medicine,” says Lo, whose culinary repertoire often pays homage to her Taiwanese-American heritage.

FOOD FIGHTERS

Repackaging age-old plant-based medicines to heal, all four of them choose a contemporary language and aesthetic to make it palatable for their modern audiences. In Jain’s cookbook Satvic Movement The Food Book, you’ll find recipes like quinoa-coconut milk bowl and cashew cheese salad, while Lo uses cannabis to create dishes like green dumplings and cannabis-infused longevity noodles. Gong features innovative recipes that spotlight ancient Chinese edibles and go beyond the ubiquitous ginseng—among other less-famous ingredients, you will find her using jujube dates, longan, goji milk, Chinese yam and kombu. “The existing TCM information tends to have outdated visuals and poor translation. It fails to grab attention. So I try to convey the message with an elegant aesthetic that is also rich in authenticity from a Chinese per156

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son’s perspective,” says Gong. Take the mung bean, a TCM ingredient known for its cooling properties, which is traditionally used as a sweet soup. But in Gong’s hands, the unappetising dish turns into mung bean hummus. Miller relies mainly on social media to effectively convey her message to a younger audience. Her e-store claims to have an inventory of blends that aid fertility, migraines and mood swings, made with herbs like elderflower and false unicorn. She also runs Five Seasons TCM, a BIPOC-women-owned wellness brand that stocks ingredients like an anti-aging white snow fungus, menstrual cramp relieving osmanthus flower and Chinese foxtail millet which boosts skin elasticity. Straight out of the Goop universe, not all her herbs have to be eaten or sipped—some blends are also used to steam the vagina. While sceptics may scoff at this, some of these women began their journey towards nature-based healing to overcome a personal crisis. Lo suffered a herniated disc, while for Jain it was early episodes of PCOD, thyroid, hair fall, skin problems (including acne) and excess weight. Gong became a healer by healing herself, after being detected with breast tumours, skin rashes, amenorrhea and joint pain, and Miller had it as a way of life: “My grandmother, Quindolyn Rice, introduced me to herbs around age seven and I’ve loved working with plants ever since.” Through different approaches and ingredients, each of these schools scattered across various geographies celebrate food’s ability to heal by relying on seasonal bounty, mindfulness and gratitude. Jain warns that self-doubt can be a hindrance for practitioners: “Often, people choose this path but then they have a lot of doubt in their mind and heart. When we follow the laws of nature, nature is always with us, so unflinching faith in this power is a must,” says Jain. ■ This article does not seek to promote consumption of any substance or ingredient and is an editorial intended to provide objective information

SEAN AMADOR; MONICA LO

MONICA LO

CONSCIOUS

Comedy of errors With his new book, cartoonist and columnist Rohan Chakravarty looks at the severity of the climate crisis through a comedic lens, finds Megha Mahindru

emember 2014? It was a time before Trump deemed climate change a hoax, when Greta Thunberg was still in school on Fridays and the ice bucket challenge was sending shivers the world over. It was also the year that former dentist Rohan Chakravarty quit his day job in animation to focus on his dual passion— cartoons and conservation. A decade on, his award-winning illustrated series Green Humour, which applies humour to grave subjects like climate change while breaking down the uncomfortable truth that surrounds humanity’s ecological impact, has become the first Indian comic to be syndicated globally by Universal Press’ GoComics. Educative and entertaining, Green Humour’s popularity comes from translating dreary scientific findings on wildlife and conservation into easy-to-digest illustrated panels in the hope to stir meaningful discussions and subsequent action. “I’m drawn to verified environmental issues that should be making front-page news but sadly don’t,” says the Nagpur-born and Hyderabad-based environmental cartoonist. Last year, when controversial amendments were proposed by the draft Environment Impact Assessment (EIA), Chakravarty decided to illustrate how it would undercut India’s biodiversity and climate goals. “When the draft was released, a lot of people used my comics as a visual face of the protest, so it gave a platform to use the art for a greater action,” says the 33-year-old self-taught artist whose work was widely shared among his 132k followers on Instagram. Scroll through his feed and Chakravarty’s motley

crew of animals and birds takes the reader through a gamut of subjects—from increasing greenhouse gases and shrinking reservoirs to rising sea levels, loss of habitat and diminishing biodiversity. But it’s not all doomscrolling. Among his illustrated gems is also news about new species found alongside heartwarming trivia about earth’s lesser-known inhabitants. His latest book, Green Humour For A Greying Planet, is a 200-page compilation of some of his best works that feature eye-opening conversations about our often-neglected surroundings. “If you asked me 10 years ago if art can be for the sake of art, I’d have said yes. But given the time we live in and the country we live in, I think art without a purpose is just a pretty thing to look at when it can be a visual medium for change,” he adds. ■ Green Humour For A Greying Planet is published by Penguin Random House

Chakravarty’s book is out on World Environment Day (June 5, 2021)

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LUXURIOUS SHINE FOR YOUR HAIR

In our fast-paced lives, we all need products for our hair and skin that are multi-purpose. And, if there is one product that promises to nourish your hair and uplift your spirits, it is Schwarzkopf Professional’s Rose Finishing Oil, a part of Oil Ultime—an aromatherapy inspired range. Formulated with 100% natural, purified Rose oil which gently envelops the hair, helping to soothe and nourish your senses, the weightless, selfevaporating formula smoothens the hair and adds a beautiful shine without weighing it down. It can be applied to the scalp in sections and massaged as a pre-wash treatment or it can be used on damp hair to protect the hair before styling. It can also be used as a finishing oil on your styled hair as the last step to seal in the shine and lend your hair a sleek look. Available at all leading salons and e-commerce platforms

Learn With The Times

Learning is a two-way street. Teachers ought to observe students and gauge their readiness to absorb the material before teaching the required skills, whether theoretical or experiential. And this holds, no matter what the field of education. And no one understands this better than the teachers at Whistling Woods International School of Fashion where aspiring designers are encouraged to explore their creativity through engagement within and beyond the classroom. What sets the school apart is that it nurtures innovative ideas while grooming students to tackle the evolving needs of the industry as they are exposed to a balance of theoretical, visual and theatrical input. For more information, email admissions@whistlingwoods.net

Vogue

DIARY

This month, we bring you the best in luxury and fashion

Bespoke Kid Jewellery s

After severa l months of re search and a of trial and e lot rror, Rajasi Jin dal founded eponymous h er jewellery lab el four years in 2017. The a g o , bespoke jew ellery line ma with hallmark de ed gold and certified diam exclusively fo ond r children is h ypoallergenic s lightweight. and But what sets the brand ap that her prod a rt is ucts, exclusiv ely designed children, hav for e no sharp e dges. The de cute, whimsi signs are cal, and beau tiful, carrying the age-old forward tradition of g ifting jewelle mothers and ry to new babies to co mmemorate momentous every occasion alo ng the way. D to become a e signed n intrinsic pa rt of a child's Jindal’s piece lif e , s exude luxu ry in the true the word. sense of For more in form or follow @ra ation, visit Rajasijindal. com jasijindal on Instagram

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A WELLNESS VACATION

To escape the monotony of everyday life, book a stay at The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa, Gulmarg's first luxury resort, located at an elevation of 8,825 ft in the Pir Panjal Range of the majestic Himalayas. Since its launch in December 2012, The Khyber has won several accolades for its impeccable service, warm hospitality, and a range of amenities. But for a truly exceptional experience, The Khyber Spa by L’occitane offers holistic spa treatments inspired by the rituals of Provence, France. The property also boasts a gym and a heated indoor swimming pool. But should you want to explore the outdoors, the resort is a 10-minute walk from the world’s highest Golf Course. For more information, visit Khyberhotels.com or follow @TheKhyberResort on Facebook, @thekhyberresort on Instagram and @khyberhimalayan on Twitter

A PASSION FOR CREATIVITY Prestigious Italian fashion and design school, Istituto Marangoni Mumbai, has collaborated with fashion designer Dhruv Kapoor and architect and interior designer Ashiesh Shah, for a mentorship program for the academic year 2021-22. With extensive knowledge on international trends and their modern twist on Indian design sensibilities, Kapoor and Shah made for the perfect mentors to embody the school's key values of craftsmanship and luxury. The collaboration aims to inspire students with new courses and content and to create awareness and to participate as mentors for Istituto Marangoni Mumbai’s future talent. For more information, visit Istitutomarangoni.com/en

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louisvuitton.com) Mango: Mumbai 022-49707667, Delhi 011-42658160, London 0044-20-74343866 (www.shop.mango.com) Manish Malhotra: Mumbai 9833946835, Delhi 9818684859 (www.manishmalhotra.in) Manolo Blahnik: (www.manoloblahnik.com) Melt: (www.shopmelt.in) Michael Kors Collection: Mumbai 022-28892180, Delhi 011-42111945, Bengaluru 080-22682028 (www.michaelkors.com) Missoma: (www. missoma.com) Miu Miu: (www.miumiu.com) MSGM: (www.farfetch. com) My Motifs: (www.mymotifs.com) Myrha by Rhea: (www. myrhabyrhea.com) Orseund Iris: (www.net-a-porter.com) Prabal Gurung: (www.prabalgurung.com) Prada: London 0044-20-76475000, Paris 0033-1-53239940, New York 001-212-3348888 (www.prada. com) Rahul Mishra: Mumbai 9326788526, Delhi 9650039960 (www. rahulmishra.in) Ritika Mirchandani: (www.ensembleindia.com) Roopa Pemmaraju: (www.roopapemmaraju.com) Scotch & Soda: (www. scotch-soda.com) Shehlaa Khan: (http://shehlaa.com) Simone Rocha: (www.farfetch.com) Staud: (www.net-a-porter.com) Stella McCartney: London 0044-20-75183100, Paris 0033-1-47030380, New York 001212-3208350 (www.stellamccartney.com) (www.farfetch.com) Supriya Lele: (www.farfetch.com) Tarun Tahiliani: Mumbai 022-22870895, Delhi 9910006281 (www.taruntahiliani.com) Tilla: (www.tilla.in) Tod’s: (www.tods.com) Tommy Hilfiger: (www.global.tommy.com) Uniqlo: (www.uniqlo.com) United Colors of Benetton: (world.benetton. com) Valentino Garavani: London 0044-20-76472520, Paris 0033-144398000, New York 001-212-3555811 (www.valentino.com) (www. farfetch.com) Vero Moda: Mumbai 022-43473780, Delhi 011-43717131 (www.veromoda.com) Versace: Delhi 011-48970000, Paris 0033-147428802, London 0044-20-72256770 (www.versace.com) (www. matchesfashion.com) Victoria Beckham: London 0044-20-70336490 (www.victoriabeckham.com) Vince: (www.farfetch.com) Wales Bonner: (www.farfetch.com) Westside: (www.westside.com) Y/Project: (www. yproject.fr) Zara: Mumbai 022-45421800, Delhi 011-41680854, London 0044-20-73992150, Paris 0033-1-45615280, New York 001212-7650477 (www.zara.com)

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Ana Khouri: (www.anakhouri.com) Amrapali: (www.amrapalijewels. com) Anmol Jewellers: Mumbai 022-61333444 (www.anmoljewellers. in) Breguet: Time Avenue, Mumbai 022-26515757, Johnson Watch Co, Delhi 011-41517518, The Helvetica, Chennai 044-28464096, Exclusive Lines, Kolkata 033-22820626 Cartier: DLF Emporio, Delhi 011-46788888, London 0044-20-73183977, Paris 0033-158182300 (www.cartier.com) Chanel: Delhi 011-68136500, Paris 0033-8-20002005 Chopard: Time Keepers, Mumbai 09619888888, Johnson Watch Co, Delhi 011-41517518, London 0044-20-74093140 Fabergé: (www.faberge.com) Fossil: Mumbai 022-40050207, Delhi

SAM HENDEL

FASHION

Dress, Victoria Beckham. Earring, Francesca Villa

Mehta: (www.lemillindia.com) Tara Fine Jewellery: Mumbai 02222947534 The Line: (www.lemillindia.com) Zoya - A Tata Product: Mumbai 022-6559000 (www.zoya.in)

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TRIBUTE

Model Lakshmi Menon wears a silk satin dress from Lanvin by Alber Elbaz in the April 2009 issue of Vogue India

Alber Elbaz

JUNE 12, 1961 - APRIL 24, 2021

Just one of the many quotable quotes that made my interview and meeting with Alber Elbaz a career highlight for me. It was five days prior to his A/W 2009-10 show when we caught up over breakfast at the Hôtel de Crillon in Paris. Full of chirp and chutzpah, the very affable Monsieur Elbaz’s greatest conundrum seemed to be mastering his breakfast order. We were to speak for a half hour, but he stayed for almost two. We spoke of many things: the magic he had woven on the 120-year-old legacy brand Lanvin to turn it into both the ‘it’ and hit brand, his love for women (“I love that you can have an amazing career woman, but she might want to take three years off to take care of her kids and cook roast chicken for her smelly husband— and she can be absolutely comfortable with her choice and love this as much as she loves working. I want to dress, not undress these women”) and above all, his healthy disdain towards the trappings of success. With the greatest pride, he dropped that he took the subway home, as that was his reality and clothes were his dream. Thank you, Alber, for sharing your dreams with us and making us fall in love so many times with dressing and dressing up. Your magic, your humility and your genius will be missed. — Priya Tanna 162

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PRABUDDHA DASGUPTA

“Success is like perfume. You can sniff it and enjoy it, but if you try to swallow it, it will kill you.”